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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this ebook. - -Title: The ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland from the earliest - Christian times to the seventeenth century; vol. 2/3 - -Author: David MacGibbon - Thomas Ross - -Release Date: December 06, 2020 [EBook #63978] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - available at The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -2/3 *** - - - - - THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE - - OF SCOTLAND - - FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE - SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. - - - _Edinburgh: Printed by George Waterston & Sons_ - - FOR - - DAVID DOUGLAS. - - LONDON, SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, AND CO., LIMITED - CAMBRIDGE, MACMILLAN AND BOWES - GLASGOW, JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS - - - - - THE - - ECCLESIASTICAL - - ARCHITECTURE - - OF SCOTLAND - - FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE - SEVENTEENTH CENTURY - - BY - - DAVID MACGIBBON AND THOMAS ROSS - - AUTHORS OF “THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND” - - _VOLUME TWO_ - - - [Illustration] - - - EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS - - MDCCCXCVI - - - _All rights reserved._ - - - - -PREFACE. - - -As this Volume contains drawings and descriptions of the examples of the -First Pointed and Middle Pointed Periods in Scotland, and, therefore, -illustrates the finest of our mediæval edifices, it may be convenient at -this stage to consider the position these buildings occupy in relation -to the general system of Gothic architecture in other countries. There -can scarcely be any question as to the Gothic style having been imported -into, and not being native to, this country. We have already seen that -the Norman style was gradually introduced from England, and was -afterwards superseded by the transition style. The buildings of the -first pointed period also show unmistakable indications of their design -having been brought from England,[1] while those of the middle pointed -period, although clearly allied in style to English examples, exhibit in -their details a few signs of other influences. Although many of our -Scottish edifices contain much beautiful work, and all are full of -interest, it must be admitted that even the best examples of Gothic in -this country cannot claim to give full expression to the fundamental -principles of the Gothic style as developed in its native home, the -Royal Domain of France. - -The style being here an exotic, and being carried out rather as -imitative than as original, it is naturally to be expected that it -should disclose symptoms of departure from the spirit which animated -those by whom it was wrought out and developed. And that is, in fact, -the case. - -Notwithstanding the beauty of many of our larger and finer edifices, -such as Holyrood and Melrose Abbeys, and Glasgow, Dunblane, and Elgin -Cathedrals, evidence is wanting in the design of these edifices of a -full appreciation of the leading principles which inspired and guided -the architects of the Ile de France. The Scottish buildings represent -the echo rather than the original voice of the genius of Gothic -architecture. - -The principal aim of the French architects of the latter half of the -twelfth century and during the thirteenth century was to produce -structures in which the arcuated or vaulted system of building should be -developed to its fullest extent. With these architects the vaulted -construction of the roof thus became the ruling element in the design, -all the other features being wrought out so as to be supplementary to, -and indicative of, the principles of the arcuated style. Every detail -was designed so as to fulfil its structural function in subordination to -that general idea. Thus the ribs of the vaults formed the framework on -which the vaulting panels rested, and conveyed the pressures created by -the weight of the roof to the points where these pressures were all -concentrated on the capitals of the wall shafts. From that point the -forces so concentrated were distributed, the vertical pressure being -conveyed downwards by the wall shafts to the foundations, and the -horizontal thrusts being counterbalanced by buttresses and flying -buttresses, which performed their share of the work by carrying these -forces obliquely to the ground. These primary features were the skeleton -which constituted the main elements of the building. They formed a -structure in stable equilibrium, which was independent of the filling in -of the walls, with windows, doors, and other details. The latter were -but the clothing and ornamentation of the main structural framework, and -in the completed style (as at Amiens Cathedral), all superfluous masonry -is abolished, and the spaces between the main structural elements are -enclosed with screens of tracery. The Gothic structure was thus a -composition in complete contrast with the Romanesque or Norman edifices -which preceded it. In the latter, although arching and even vaulting -were employed, the arched system of construction was in an elementary -state, and the inert mass of the walls was chiefly relied on as a -counterpoise to the thrusts of the arches. - -It was not till the end of the twelfth and during the thirteenth century -that the Gothic system had been fully worked out by the French -architects. The arcuated principle had then been developed in a complete -and logical manner, and had entirely freed itself from the heavy and -unnecessary mass of the earlier Romanesque. Nothing was preserved except -the lightest framework required for stability, enclosed with screens of -tracery filled with stained glass. Every detail of the fully developed -Gothic style was designed on the same logical principles as the leading -structural features, and gave expression in its design to the function -it was required to fulfil,[2] while the whole building was so ornamented -as to be in complete harmony with the general idea.[3] - -In England the details of the perfected Gothic, especially as regards -decorative features, were carried out somewhat in the same spirit as in -France, but the leading elements in the general design do not seem to -have been so fully understood or carried out. The adherence to wooden -roofs--a common and general practice in England--alone shows the -difference in the guiding principles which operated in the two -countries. The wooden roof is a complete departure from the leading -element of the arcuated style. It shows an inclination to fall back on -the ancient trabeate or horizontal beam system, from which it had been -the great object of the earlier mediæval architects to free their -designs. The wooden roof ignores the leading idea of a vaulted fireproof -covering, and abandons the principle of the concentration of the roof -pressures on particular points, as is the case in groined vaulting. No -doubt a wooden roof may be designed so as to throw a greater amount of -its pressure on some points than on others, but the principle of the -wooden roof is that of the tie beam and the distribution of the weight -over the side walls. - -The actuating motive of Gothic design in the main feature of the -vaulting being thus lost sight of in England, it is not surprising to -find it inactive in other directions. The Romanesque element of massive -walls, with small windows, is likewise partially adhered to, and in -details also the guiding principle of French design is in some respects -abandoned. The round form of the abacus--so universally employed in -England--may be cited as a characteristic example of departure from the -Gothic principle. - -In France the abacus of the columns is invariably shaped so as to -receive each shaft or rib which it is its function to carry; whereas the -round abacus adopted in England receives indiscriminately all the -members which descend upon it, and their loads are often carried by -shafts not having any distinct or structural relation to the members -which rest on the abacus above them. - -Notwithstanding these and similar defections from the leading principles -of Gothic, the architecture of England is (as has already been pointed -out)[4] in many respects very charming, and, in point of variety and -picturesqueness, possibly sometimes surpasses French examples. - -What is here attempted to be pointed out is not so much that English -Gothic is defective in the above respects, as that certain logical -principles, inseparable from a genuine arcuated system, are less weakly -developed in England than in the Ile de France. If between the -architecture of the two countries there is not much to choose as regards -picturesque details and ornamental features, there can be little -question but that the logical spirit which apprehended and followed out -the principles of the arcuated style to their full limits is more -clearly apparent in the one than in the other. - -The position of Gothic in England being as described, it is only natural -to find in the structures of the leading periods of the style in -Scotland, which shine by a light borrowed from England, a similar and -even greater departure from the main ideas which actuated the architects -of France. The same defects occur here as in England--the frequent use -of the wooden roof for wide spans being common to both countries, and -producing similar results in each. The wooden roof led, from the -principles of its structure, to changes and peculiarities in the design -throughout. In some cases the wall shafts which divide the bays are -entirely omitted, and give place to a large expanse of plain wall over -the main arcade. Instances of this occur at Sweetheart Abbey and -Dunblane Cathedral (see Figs. 758, 510). In other examples a continuous -arcade is carried along at the triforium level, without any -strengthening of the walls over the main piers, thus carrying out the -principle of the wooden roof, which implies an equal pressure all along -the side walls. This is a very marked feature at Kelso Abbey and -Dunblane Cathedral. - -In some buildings, although vaulted, the wall shafts are of such slight -dimensions as to be scarcely of any value (even to the eye) in conveying -the weight of the vaults to the ground, and these shafts frequently do -not descend to the base, or even to the caps of the main piers, but are -carried on corbels inserted in the side walls at a considerable height -above the caps of the piers. The functional use of the wall shafts is -thus disregarded, and they become mere ornaments. - -Slight wall shafts of this description, carried on corbels, occur in the -nave of Glasgow Cathedral, in the choir of St. Giles’, Edinburgh; in St. -Michael’s, Linlithgow; Crosraguel Abbey, &c.; while in the choir of -Glasgow Cathedral and in Haddington Church the small wall shafts spring -from the caps of the main piers. - -In Elgin Cathedral the vaulting shafts, which are mere beads, descend -to the ground, and the clerestory arcade is almost continuous. - -In Lincluden College the vaulting shafts, which are heavier than usual, -all rest on corbels in the side walls, not far above the floor, so that -none of their loads are conveyed to the foundation. - -Vaulting is very generally adopted in the side aisles, but in these, -too, the Gothic idea is often lost sight of, the wall responds having -frequently their bases supported on side benches or seats, instead of -being carried to the ground. - -Externally, as well as internally, our Scottish Gothic is somewhat -defective in its mode of carrying out the arcuated principles. The -wooden roofs so frequently employed really require no buttresses, and, -therefore, our buildings are in so far right where in such cases only -very slight pilaster-buttresses are used in the triforium, as is the -case in Glasgow, Elgin, and Dunblane Cathedrals. In the side aisles, -which are vaulted, the buttresses are sometimes heavier, but these -features are insignificant as compared with the great flying buttresses -and piers of the genuine arcuated or Gothic style of Northern France. - -In many other respects there may be traced in Scotland a certain absence -of the Gothic spirit, which discarded every element not essential to the -carrying out of the arcuated principle. Even in our finest structures -the Romanesque or Norman influence continues to prevail. A large expanse -of heavy walling, with small openings, is not unusual. In almost no -building are the solid side walls omitted and light tracery substituted -between the main supporting piers, as is the case in the best Gothic in -France. The broad masses of masonry in the triforium and clerestory of -the churches at Linlithgow and Haddington may be cited as examples of -the absence of the Gothic spirit. The continued adherence to solid walls -with narrow lancet-formed windows is a marked feature of both English -and Scottish architecture. - -Moulded caps, with round abaci, are usual here, as in England, and have -the same defects, both in principle and practice. In the later examples -the relation between the shafts or mouldings, which carry the caps, and -the arch-mouldings above them is abandoned, and that genuine Gothic -principle is entirely ignored. - -Many of the above defections from pure Gothic arise from, or owe their -origin (as we have seen) to, the use of wooden roofs. - -It may be argued that there is no necessity for the above principles -being adhered to, and that English and Scottish architects were quite at -liberty, when required, either from want of skill or absence of funds, -to cover their naves with wooden roofs. - -That argument is at once conceded; but, then, they should have frankly -acknowledged that they departed from the arcuate and adopted the -trabeate system. That, however, was never done; hence the imperfect -carrying out of the arcuate system, as practised in France, which we -find in most of our churches, and which shows that the style was here -not original, but imitative. - -What we desire to insist on is not that good architecture is -incompatible with structures roofed with timber, or any other material, -but that the fundamental principles of Gothic spring from the -development of an arcuated style, and that that principle has been only -fully and logically carried out in Northern France. In other countries -in which Gothic architecture was adopted, much of its spirit was caught -and developed; but when the vaulting or dominating feature of the style -was absent, the manifestations of the Gothic spirit were comparatively -weak and imperfect. These weaknesses and imperfections appear to prove -the derivative nature of the architecture in those countries, and -especially in Scotland. - -But the fact of the Gothic of Scotland being of borrowed origin does not -prevent much of it here, as in England, from being beautiful and -instructive, as, it is hoped, the following pages will show. - -Probably one of the Scottish edifices in which Gothic principles are -best exemplified is Melrose Abbey. The whole building was vaulted with -stone, and the vaulting was chiefly groined. The ribs (see Fig. 767) -descend on the caps of vaulting shafts of trefoil section, the central -division of which rests on a corbel at the level of the main pier caps, -while the other two divisions of the trefoil shaft descend without -interruption to the base of the piers. That at least was the design, -although it was in some of the piers interfered with by the introduction -of a screen. In the south aisle also the vaulting ribs are carried on -wall shafts or responds, which descend to the bases; but there is an -unnecessary amount of wall on each side of these shafts and over the -longitudinal arches, which lead into the outer chapels. - -The vaults are counterpoised with suitable flying arches (see Fig. 766) -abutting on solid buttresses, loaded with lofty pinnacles, which give -them due resistance to the thrusts brought to bear on them. The windows -in the south chapel walls (and clerestory of choir) are larger than -usual, and are filled with tracery; but there is here also an -unnecessary amount of plain wall between the bays, especially in the -nave clerestory. - -There is, however, at Melrose an entire absence of the heavy blank wall -so often introduced over the main arcade, although the absence of any -triforium makes the building seem somewhat low and squat. The large -amount of solid masonry over the exterior of the great east window of -the choir and south window of the transept is likewise a defect. The -round abacus is almost always used at Melrose, but the shafts of the -piers are simple and distinct, and each member carries a clearly defined -series of mouldings. - -The authors beg again to tender their acknowledgment of the assistance -they have received from many quarters. They have especially to thank Mr. -T. S. ROBERTSON, Architect, Dundee; Mr. WILLIAM GALLOWAY, Architect, -Wigton; and Mr. R. BRUCE ARMSTRONG, for the drawings and descriptions -they have kindly contributed, and which are referred to in the text. To -Mr. JOHN HONEYMAN and Mr. T. L. WATSON, Architects, Glasgow, they are -also indebted for assistance in connection with Glasgow Cathedral. - - * * * * * - -Since the description of St. Andrews Cathedral in this Volume was -written, considerable progress has been made with the works referred to -in the text, as being carried on for Lord Bute by Mr. Kinross, -Architect, and several new points have been disclosed. - -The west doorway from the cloister into the nave (which is in a modern -vinery) has been opened up on the south side, and its massive first -pointed architecture has been shown. The arch is pointed, and the -details (including dog-tooth enrichments) correspond in style with the -entrance to the chapter house (see Fig. 452). - -The whole of the crypt of the refectory (see Fig. 454) has been -excavated and the pillars uncovered, showing that there were two rows of -pillars and three vaults in the width of the building. The pillars, -which are round, have been restored so far as they were incomplete, and -so have the groined arches, the new work being executed in red -sandstone, so that it may be easily distinguishable from the old work, -which is of a light coloured freestone. The masonry of the old pillars -being considerably shattered, it has been found necessary, in restoring -the crypt, to insert an iron column in the heart of each pillar, in -order to give them sufficient strength to carry the weight of the vault. -It is not known to what use this crypt was applied. - -In the east range of buildings running south from the chapter house, the -excavations have been continued, and the pillars of a vaulted chamber -below the dormitory have been revealed. As this chamber contains a -fireplace, it may possibly have been the day room or calefactory of the -canons, as only one fireplace (and that in the calefactory) was allowed -in the monasteries. There is, however, some doubt as to whether this -fireplace is original. At the south end of this chamber a deep drain or -water channel, carefully built with ashlar, has been found. This was, -doubtless, the main sewer of the monastery, through which there flowed a -constant stream of water. The stream which fed the mill race (see Fig. -457) is not far distant. The latrines were, without doubt, situated -above this sewer. - -In the grounds of the existing school of St. Leonard’s, which lie on the -south side of the road leading from the “pends” to the harbour, was -formerly situated St. Leonard’s Hospitium, or Guests’ Hall, for the -reception of pilgrims and strangers visiting St. Andrews. This Hospitium -was an ancient foundation, but according to Martine it was rebuilt by -Prior John White in the middle of the thirteenth century. Of this -structure there still survive the ruins of the east wall, and by recent -excavations made to the westwards, it has been discovered that the -building consisted of a large hall, having a central nave and two side -aisles. The foundations disclosed show that there were four bays in the -length of the hall. - -The following translations from Bower’s continuation of Fordun’s -_Scotichronicon_,[5] which Lord Bute has been good enough to send us, -together with his own valuable notes, throw some light on the dates of -parts of the cathedral and other matters connected with it, especially -the work done by Prior Halderston, 1418-1443, viz.:-- - - “This Lord [prior] James Halderston [inducted in 1418], master in - Divinity, was extremely eloquent and of a good presence, and very - careful and neat in his person and dress. After he had ruled his - house well for twenty-four years, he died at his monastery on July - 18, and was honourably buried in the north wall of the Chapel of - our Lady, in the cathedral church, A.D. 1443. - -In connection with above, Lord Bute mentions that Bower (p. 366) states -that Bishop Henry Wardlaw, who died April 6th, 1440, “was buried in the -Church of St. Andrew, with greater pomp than his predecessors, in the -wall between the choir and the Chapel of our Lady,” thus making it -evident that the Chapel of our Lady was the chapel on the north side of -the choir. - - “He [Prior Halderston] adorned the church of his monastery with - wonderful and remarkable beauty, both in the carving of the stalls - and in the painting of figures. The nave of this church had been - erected by his predecessor, the Lord [prior] James Bisset, of - worthy memory [who sat from 1393 to 1416], in a sumptuous manner, - with rafters and ceilings [_tignis et tecturis_], but inside it was - an empty, vast, and deserted synagogue. He [Halderston] fitted it - throughout in becoming manner with glass windows, along with the - erection of altars, figures, and decorations and polished - pavements.” Lord Bute asks--“Did he add the altar against the - screen which crosses the south aisle just west of the eastmost door - into the cloister?” - - “He [Halderston] built the eastern gable from the foundations, - along with its arch [_arcuali voltâ_].” As Lord Bute remarks--“This - must mean only the east window, the greater part of the east wall - being of transition work” (see Figs. 443-444.) “He adorned - pleasingly the hinder vestry [_revestiarium_] with the reliques and - other restorations and cases [_clausaris_] at considerable - expense.” - -Lord Bute thinks that “the revestiarium is evidently the east end of the -church behind the high altar, sometimes wrongly called the Lady Chapel,” -and refers for the use of this term to the contemporary accounts of the -death of the Red Comyn, in which he is sometimes stated to have been -dragged by the friars into the vestry, and sometimes behind the altar, -thus showing the space behind the altar to have been the vestry. - - “He laid with a pleasing pavement the whole space not only of the - choir, but also of the transept [_transversarum capellarum_] of the - church, along with both sides [_lateribus sive panis_] of the - cloister, and also the outer chapter house [_inferius capitulum_]. - He rebuilt, as it were, from the foundations the fair and - remarkable palace within the court of the prior’s lodging, along - with the handsome [_decentoribus_] oratory and chamber which are - there situated; and likewise domestic manor-houses in their [or - his ‘_suis_’] ‘_locaperhendinalia_’ [places where he might - occasionally have to stay, _perendie_ = the day after to-morrow], - such as Ballon, Segy, and Kynmoth.” - -The following note on the above passage is subjoined by Lord Bute:-- - - “Bower states (pp. 368-369) that Prior John of Haddington, who sat - 1263-1304, ‘made the great chamber which is situated in the east - part of the monastery, beside the burying-ground;’ that Prior John - of Forfar (1313-1321) ‘built the new chamber adjoining the - cloister, which the priors have usually had, and which Prior - William of Lothian (1340-1354) afterwards enclosed on every side - with a very strong wall;’ also, that William of Lothian roofed ‘the - eastern chamber’ at great expense.” Lord Bute goes on to say--“My - impression is, that the ‘new chamber’ is that afterwards called the - senzie chamber; several priors and bishops are mentioned as having - died ‘in the prior’s chamber,’ but that Halderston rebuilt the - eastern chamber, erecting a fine house there, and also rebuilding - some rather decayed old oratory on a finer scale [_decentiori_]. He - was the first who obtained for the priors the use of the pastoral - insignia--viz., the mitre, staff, and ring. ‘He strikingly - increased for their glory the pomp of divine service, at the - celebration of the mass of our lady in her chapel. [Probably it was - the custom for the priors to sing or say it on certain days, or - every day].... In his days the Lord William Bower, vicar of St. - Andrews, completed the altar of [Christ] crucified in the nave of - the church, adorned with its permanent [_solido_] throne and - sumptuous figures; and likewise William of Ballochy, his sub-prior, - with the desire of the said prior, completed in a very beautiful - and comely manner the space of the dormitory at the sides and the - other pavements.’” - -With regard to the work of William Bower, Lord Bute says:-- - - “I only know of one other instance of a permanent stone gallery of - one arch crossing the nave; this is at Frankfort, and I got there - an architectural work on it. At Frankfort, the imperial throne - stood upon it as the Commissioner’s throne used to stand in St. - Giles’, Edinburgh, before it was all pulled down a few years ago; - the throne of the King of France on the rood loft at Rheims, &c. - &c. But this throne was not permanent. I believe that at St. - Andrews there was this single span arch, bearing a platform, upon - which was a great canopy (as in St. Giles’), and under the canopy - the royal throne, looking eastwards, and the altar of the crucifix - back to back with it (as with the imperial throne and domestic - altar in the gallery at Aachen). In the rood loft at Rheims the - king’s domestic altar was not back to back with the throne, but at - the south end of the gallery at his right hand. Above the roof of - the baldaquin or canopy (at St. Andrews), over the throne and - altar, I imagine the great rood, with a multitude of ‘sumptuous - figures,’ to have towered up towards the roof.” - -From the above quotations from Bower, and Lord Bute’s remarks thereon, -attention is drawn to a number of interesting points connected with the -cathedral and priory, and the names and dates of the priors to whom -certain parts of the structure are due. We gather from them-- - - 1. That the Lady Chapel was situated on the north side of the - choir. - - 2. That the nave was, to a large extent, rebuilt and roofed by - Prior James Bisset, about the beginning of the fifteenth century, - but remained an “empty synagogue” till completed and furnished with - glazed windows, altars, and decorations by his successor, Prior - Halderston. - -This corresponds with the period assigned in the text (pp. 18 and 28) -for the rebuilding of the upper portion of the west end. - - 3. Numerous other works were carried out by Prior Halderston. He it - was who altered the east end, and introduced the single large - window in place of several smaller ones. He also executed the - pavement of the choir, transept, and cloister walk, and rebuilt the - prior’s palace. He likewise carried out other works, the sites of - which are indefinite; and he obtained for the priory the pastoral - insignia. - -According to Lord Bute’s view, a single great arch was thrown across the -nave, between the second pillars from the crossing, above which was a -gallery, where stood the royal throne, surmounted by a baldaquin, -having the altar of the crucifix behind it; while above the canopy -towered the great rood, together with numerous figures. Lord Bute -points, in support of this view, to the example at Frankfort, where an -arch of a single span supported the rood loft and imperial and royal -thrones. - -As regards the Commissioner’s or royal throne at St. Giles’, Edinburgh, -it no doubt occupied the centre of the gallery at the west end of the -choir, or “High Church,” when the building was divided into three -churches, and it had a canopy over it. It thus stood in the position -where a rood loft might have been, but the gallery it occupied was an -erection of this century, and did not rest on an ancient base. - - EDINBURGH, _October 1896_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - -Introductory remarks--New development of architecture at end of twelfth -century, along with other new developments--Introduction of Pointed -Style succeeded the Transition--Connection with England--Features of -First Pointed Style in Scotland--Central Towers, Cloisters, &c., as in -England--Omission of triforium not unusual--Few parish churches of -First Pointed Period, 1-5 - -St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory (_Augustinian_), Fifeshire, 5 -St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, St. Andrews, Do. 29 -Arbroath Abbey (_Tironensian_), Forfarshire, 30 - Do. Abbot’s House, Do. 49 -Holyrood Abbey (_Augustinian_), Edinburgh, 53 -Kilwinning Abbey (_Tironensian_), Ayrshire, 73 -Dunblane Cathedral, Perthshire, 86 -Inchmahome Priory (_Augustinian_), Stirlingshire, 112 -Elgin Cathedral, Morayshire, 121 -Pluscardine Priory (_Valliscaulian_), Do. 146 -Glasgow Cathedral, Lanarkshire, 160 -Brechin Cathedral, Forfarshire, 203 -Maison Dieu, Brechin, Do. 215 -Lindores Abbey (_Tironensian_), Fifeshire, 217 -Cambuskenneth Abbey (_Augustinian_), Stirlingshire, 225 -Culross Abbey (_Cistercian_), Perthshire, 231 -Old Parish Church, Culross, Do. 243 -Beauly Priory (_Valliscaulian_), Inverness-shire, 245 -Newbattle or Newbotle Abbey (_Cistercian_), Mid-Lothian, 251 -Lismore Cathedral, Argyleshire, 263 -St. Kentigern’s, Lanark, Lanarkshire, 266 -St. Adamnan’s (?), Burntisland, Fifeshire, 269 -St. Baldred’s, Prestonkirk, Haddingtonshire, 271 -Cowie Church, Kincardineshire, 273 -The Abbey of Deer (_Cistercian_), Aberdeenshire, 274 -Deer Church, Do. 278 -Auchindoir Church, Do. 281 -St. Cuthbert’s, Monkton, Ayrshire, 285 -St. Nicholas’, Prestwick, Do. 285 -Luffness Monastery (_Redfriars_), Haddingtonshire, 288 -Altyre Church, Morayshire, 290 -St. Mary’s Chapel, Rattray, Aberdeenshire, 292 -St. Magridin’s, Abdie, Fifeshire, 293 -St. Ninian’s (?) on “The Isle,” Wigtonshire, 297 -Chapel, Dunstaffnage Castle, Argyleshire, 299 -St. Colmanel’s, Buittle, Kirkcudbrightshire, 300 -Tungland Abbey (_Premonstratensian_), Do. 301 -Cockpen Church, Mid-Lothian, 303 -Pencaitland Church, Haddingtonshire, 304 -Font, Gogar Church, Mid-Lothian, 306 -The Abbey of Inchcolm (_Augustinian_), Fifeshire, 307 - - -MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED PERIOD. - -Introductory remarks--Few buildings erected in fourteenth century, -but many destroyed during the wars with England--A gap in Scottish -architecture during fourteenth century--Building again begun in -fifteenth century--Style of early part of century closely allied to -the Decorated of England, but in the latter half of century the style -differed from that both of France and England, and partook of features -from both these countries--Style of Melrose Abbey compared with that of -York Minster--Introduction of special features in Scotland, such as the -Pointed Barrel Vault supporting a stone roof, and the erection of -collegiate churches, 331-334 - -New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey (_Cistercian_), Kirkcudbrightshire, 334 -Melrose Abbey (_Cistercian_), Roxburghshire, 344 -Lincluden College, Kirkcudbrightshire, 383 -Fortrose Cathedral, Ross-shire, 394 -Crosraguel Abbey (_Cluniac_), Ayrshire, 402 -St. Giles’ Collegiate Church, Edinburgh, 419 -St. Michael’s, Linlithgow, West Lothian, 455 -St. Monans’, Fifeshire, 471 -Whithorn Priory (_Premonstratensian_), Wigtonshire, 479 -Temple Church, Mid-Lothian, 486 -St. Mary’s, Haddington, East Lothian, 491 -Balmerino Abbey (_Cistercian_), Fifeshire, 505 -Chapel in Rothesay Castle, Buteshire, 517 -St. Bride’s, Douglas, Lanarkshire, 520 -St. Bride’s College, Bothwell, Do. 531 -St. Duthus’, Tain, Ross-shire, 537 -Fearn Abbey (_Premonstratensian_), Do. 542 -St. Peter’s, Inverkeithing, Fifeshire, 547 -Aberdalgie, Monument of Sir W. Olifurd, Perthshire, 551 -St. Devenic’s, Creich, Fifeshire, 554 -Faslane Church, Argyleshire, 557 - - - - -THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND - -FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. - -VOLUME II. - - - - -FIRST POINTED PERIOD. - - -In the previous volume those styles of architecture in Scotland were -dealt with which are directly derived from the earlier styles of Celtic -and Roman or Romanesque art, and it was shown, in the examples of the -Transition style, that the old forms were passing away and new forms -were being introduced. - -We have now reached that point in the history of mediæval architecture -when it took an entirely new and original development. It has already -been pointed out[6] that this new departure sprung from the necessity -which arose for the invention of an elastic system of vaulting which -should admit of all the arches, forming vaults over spaces of any form -on plan, being carried to the same height at the ridge. This requirement -led to the introduction of the pointed arch in the vaulting, and from -that department it soon spread to all the other arched features of the -architecture. - -This new development took place at a time when great changes were -occurring, especially in France, in social and intellectual life. Men’s -minds were then gradually awakening, science and instruction were -spreading under Abailard and other teachers, the towns were obtaining -their freedom, and a new system of things was gradually unfolding -itself. - -Architecture, which had hitherto been confined to the monasteries, was -now undertaken by laymen, who, discarding the old traditional methods, -strove after a new and simpler mode of expressing their ideas in stone. -The elaborate and stereotyped features and ornaments of the Romanesque -style were rejected, and simpler forms, at first almost without -ornament, were adopted, which emphasised the constructional elements of -the architecture. - -Of this simple, but vigorous, early pointed style numerous examples -still exist in France and Spain. When introduced amongst the Normans and -English towards the close of the twelfth century the pointed style had -acquired a certain amount of ornamentation of a new and appropriate -description. - -The examples already illustrated show that during the Transition period -the new style was making itself felt in Scotland about the end of the -twelfth century. At Dundrennan and Jedburgh Abbeys the pointed arch -becomes prominent amongst the round arches of the earlier style, but -many of the old enrichments are still adhered to. This clinging to old -forms may still to a certain extent be noticed in some of the structures -whose leading features are in the first pointed style, but these relics -gradually, though slowly, disappear. The round arch, however, sometimes -maintains its position in Scottish doorways throughout the whole of the -Gothic period.[7] - -The pointed arch is above referred to at Kelso[8] as having been -introduced, along with Norman elements, at the crossing under the tower, -where its strength was considered useful. The pointed arch, however, -cannot generally be said to have been adopted in Scotland in consequence -of any special requirement of construction; it rather followed the lead -of countries further south as a matter of fashion. Few of our early -churches were vaulted throughout at the beginning of the thirteenth -century, and the forms of such vaults as existed were, doubtless, -borrowed from England. The vaults of the choir of St. Andrews Cathedral -and the lower church of Glasgow Cathedral are probably the only -exceptions, most of our other large churches having been vaulted, if -vaulted at all, at a later period. The large churches were generally -designed to have the side aisles only vaulted, the central aisle being -covered with a wooden roof, as, for example, Arbroath Abbey and Dunblane -and Elgin Cathedrals. Holyrood Abbey is an exception; but there the -vaulting of the central aisle was sexpartite, and the pointed arch was -not much required. - -The first pointed style, when introduced into this country, speedily -spread, and most of our large churches are built in that style. Many -monasteries, as we have seen, were founded in the time of the sons of -Queen Margaret; but most of these appear to have been at first on a -small scale, and were chiefly rebuilt on a larger plan, together with -new monasteries, in the thirteenth century. Such are the abbeys of -Holyrood, Inchcolm, Kilwinning, Pluscardine, Culross, and Beauly. - -The thirteenth century was also distinguished as the great epoch for the -erection of cathedrals. The secular clergy had then risen to power, and, -under their guidance, the erection of magnificent cathedrals, both at -home and abroad, was the principal architectural phenomenon of the -period. In France and England the great majority of the cathedrals owe -their origin or completion to about this epoch; and in Scotland there -were erected, in whole or part, during the first pointed period, the -cathedrals of St. Andrews, Dunblane, Glasgow (the choir and crypt), -Elgin, Brechin, Dunkeld, Caithness, the choir of St. Magnus’ in Orkney, -and Galloway. - -The first pointed style, in which all the above structures were carried -out, reached Scotland, as already mentioned,[9] through England. The -relation between the ecclesiastics of the two countries was then very -close, the monasteries being colonised from English houses, and the -cathedral rules being based on the uses of those of England. - -Hence, as might be expected, the connection of the style of architecture -adopted in Scotland with that of England is at this period very -intimate, almost the only difference observable being that the first -pointed work in Scotland is rather later than that in England, and that -the Norman and transition features are more slowly rejected. We find the -same desire in both countries to render their principal ecclesiastical -structures complete and varied. We have no cathedrals in Scotland which -can vie with Salisbury, Lincoln, or York in size and magnificence, or in -the possession of double transepts. The Scottish cathedrals and abbeys, -however, were, for the most part, complete in all departments, having -choir and nave with side aisles (and, in the case of Elgin Cathedral, -with double aisles to the nave); a presbytery of one or two bays without -aisles, but with large windows on three sides; well-marked transepts -with eastern aisle; generally a large central tower over the crossing, -and frequently two western and other towers. - -Great central towers over the crossing of the first pointed period -formerly existed at St. Andrews and Elgin Cathedrals, and at Dundrennan, -Arbroath, Holyrood, Kilwinning, and Dunfermline Abbeys, but of these not -a vestige now remains. The only central towers which now survive are -those of Glasgow Cathedral and Pluscardine Abbey, which are carried on -the arches of the crossing. There is also a central tower at Culross -Abbey which rises with solid walls from the foundation. The central -towers of Kirkwall and Dornoch Cathedrals have been rebuilt. - -Of the other towers which once adorned our churches there still remain -the two noble western towers of Elgin Cathedral, and one of the western -towers of Holyrood Abbey. At both of these edifices the towers were -carried up with solid walls from the foundation. In other examples, of -which, however, only fragments survive, such as Arbroath and Kilwinning -Abbeys, the towers opened with arches into the central and side aisles, -so that the space occupied by the towers was included in the church. At -Kilwinning the arch in the towers next the nave appears to have been -carried to a great height, so as to form a kind of western transept. At -Inchmahome Priory there are remains of one western tower, which was -included in the nave. At Cambuskenneth Abbey a large detached tower -exists close to the west end, and at Lindores Abbey there are remains of -one western tower. - -The dependent buildings were also usually numerous and complete, the -cathedrals and abbeys being almost all provided with large cloister -garths, surrounded by handsome chapter houses, refectories, guest -houses, &c. The chapter houses are generally square, and vaulted from -one central pillar; but that of Elgin Cathedral is detached and -octagonal, with vaulting springing from a lofty central column. The -western portals are generally important, those of Elgin Cathedral and -Holyrood Abbey being specially fine. That of Kirkwall Cathedral, already -described,[10] is the finest of this period. - -The Norman round apse gives place at this time, as in England, to the -square east end, and there is in the first pointed period no indication -of a round or multangular chevet like those in France. - -The similarity of all the details of the architecture of Scotland to -that of England has already been fully explained.[11] - -The Scottish churches are comparatively low in the vaulting; they do not -exhibit the soaring ambition of those of France, but are, like the -churches of the sister country, comparatively moderate in height. The -buttresses are simple and plain, and flying buttresses and pinnacles are -occasionally used. The caps are round on plan, and have foliage founded -on that of the early first pointed style in England. - -The windows are almost always of the lancet form, several being often -grouped together, and some incipient forms of tracery are attempted, as -at Dunblane and Glasgow Cathedrals. - -In the piers the massive round columns of the Norman style are -abandoned, and clustered shafts are used, which give a lighter character -to the interior. The sections of these piers are exceedingly simple and -effective. They are usually illustrated in connection with each edifice, -and they have all a general resemblance to each other. The section -consists of one larger attached shaft (usually brought to an acute edge -in the centre) on each of the four cardinal faces, and one or two -intermediate smaller shafts between the four principal shafts, either -separated by square fillets or without such fillets. In the later -examples the sharp keel edge on the face of the shafts becomes a fillet. - -The bays sometimes follow the ordinary arrangement in England, having a -triforium arcade over the main arcade, surmounted by the clerestory. In -some of our largest churches, viz., St. Andrews and Glasgow Cathedrals, -and Kilwinning, Holyrood, Arbroath, and Pluscardine Abbeys, this -arrangement is followed; but it is notable that in several churches, as -at Elgin and Dunblane Cathedrals, the triforium is dispensed with, and -the clerestory is placed immediately over the main arcade. In other -examples, as at Dryburgh Abbey, the triforium is reduced to a minimum, -and the gallery represented only by a round cusped opening. The absence -of the triforium is an arrangement which was much adhered to in the -later epochs of our Gothic architecture. - -The relative lengths of the nave and choir have already been referred -to;[12] but attention may be drawn to the remarkable fact that in the -monastic churches, which were constructed chiefly for the use of the -monks, the choir, or portion set apart for the ecclesiastics, is small, -and the nave is large; while in the cathedrals, which were intended for -the use of the community, the choir is large as compared with the nave. - -During the first pointed period attention seems to have been chiefly -directed to the erection of large cathedrals and monastic churches--the -number of parish churches constructed at this period being comparatively -small. - -This, no doubt, partly arose from the large number of parish churches -built during the Norman period. Several examples of small churches of -the first pointed period, however, are illustrated, which show that the -style extended to all departments of ecclesiastical structures. - - -ST. ANDREWS CATHEDRAL, FIFESHIRE. - -The ancient city of St. Andrews, formerly the ecclesiastical metropolis -of Scotland, is now reduced to a small, but interesting, town, full of -the remains of its former grandeur. - -Situated at the eastern point of Fifeshire, on level ground, raised a -considerable height above the sea, and surrounded with a rocky coast, -there is little in the nature of the site to impress the beholder; but -as seen in approaching from the west, the remains of the ancient -edifices, with their ruined towers standing out against the sky, produce -an impression of departed greatness which accords well with the -venerable and stirring history of the place. - -There are vague traditions of the site having been occupied by an -ancient hermit at a very early period;[13] but St. Andrews was not -recognised as the see of a bishop till about 950, when Cellach, the -first bishop, was appointed. After him there followed ten Culdee -bishops, the last being Fothad, by whom the marriage of Malcolm Canmore -and Queen Margaret was celebrated. - -The dedication of the cathedral to St. Andrew is involved in fable; but -Dr. Skene[14] thinks that the church was founded between 736 and 761, -and that portions of the relics of St. Andrew were brought to the place -at that time, probably, as tradition has it, by Acca, Bishop of -Northumbria, who was banished from that country in 732, and is believed -to have founded a church amongst the Picts. The author of _Celtic -Scotland_ points to the similarity of the events which succeeded one -another in Northumbria and in Southern Pictland in the eighth century. -In the former country the Columban Church was expelled and secular -clergy introduced; the Church of Hexham was dedicated to St. Andrew, and -his relics were received there. In the latter country, sixty years -later, the Picts expelled the Columbans and introduced the secular -clergy, while at the same time they received part of the relics of St. -Andrew, and founded a church in his honour, St. Andrew afterwards -becoming the national patron saint. - -After the death of Fothad, the last Bishop of Alban, in 1093, the see of -St. Andrews remained vacant till 1107, when Turgot, Queen Margaret’s -chaplain and biographer, was appointed to the bishopric. - -In 1158-59, Arnald, Abbot of Kelso, was consecrated Bishop of St. -Andrews. That prelate immediately set about the building of the -cathedral, but he died in 1162, when the work was scarcely begun. The -structure progressed under his successors, and probably the whole, -including the west end, was finished in little more than a century after -its commencement. The original west end, having been blown down by a -tempest of wind, was rebuilt by Bishop William Wiseheart (or Wishart) -between 1272 and 1279. It is usually stated that the cathedral occupied -160 years in building, but it would appear to have been entirely erected -from east to west on the ground it now occupies in about 115 years. - -The Cathedral of St. Andrews was also the conventual church of the -priory of Canons Regular of St. Augustine, which was founded by Bishop -Robert about the year 1120; but of the conventual buildings erected at -that time there are now no remains. The church of St. Regulus, however, -which was probably erected by him, still survives.[15] The bishop was, -_ex officio_, the prior of the monastery. - -The structures erected by the various succeeding bishops and archbishops -are noticed as we proceed. - -In 1559 the cathedral was attacked by the mob and greatly destroyed, and -thereafter became a general quarry for public use. In 1826 the Barons of -Exchequer took possession of the ruins and had the rubbish cleared away, -and what remained of the structure put in good order, the bases of the -piers, where they existed, being brought to light, and the outline of -the ancient buildings marked out in the turf. - -A property adjoining the cathedral having recently been acquired by the -Marquis of Bute, excavations on the site of the priory have been carried -out by him, under the superintendence of Mr. J. Kinross, architect, and -considerable remains of the foundations of the ancient monastic -buildings have been disclosed to view. - -The cathedral, of which the ruins still exist (Fig. 441), consisted of a -short aisleless presbytery and a choir of five bays with side aisles, -having an eastern chapel in each aisle; north and south transepts, each -of three bays, with eastern aisles; a nave of twelve bays with north and -south aisles; - -[Illustration: FIG. 441.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Plan.] - -and a large central tower over the crossing. The interior dimensions of -the edifice were as follow:--Total length, 355 feet; width of nave, 63 -feet; length of transepts, 167 feet 6 inches; width of transepts, 43 -feet 2 inches. - -The older surviving portions show some remains of the transition style, -but the principal parts of the structure have been carried out in the -first pointed style. The remains of the choir piers clearly indicate -that that style has prevailed in the choir, and the beautiful entrance -to the chapter house gives some idea of the boldness and vigour of the -first pointed work which, doubtless, extended throughout the building. - -The cathedral has been very greatly ruined, but some portions have -escaped destruction. Of these the east end wall still stands, but -without its gable, and one half of the west end wall is entire. Besides -these, the south wall of the nave, the west and south walls of the south -transept for a considerable height, portions of other walls and -foundations, and certain of the pillars to a few feet above the bases, -are all that now survive of this once splendid structure. The east end -of the choir, and the south transept and nave as far west as the fourth -bay of the nave, show some lingering traces of the Transition style; and -in portions of the nave, as far as the cloister doorway in the third bay -from the west end, the lower part of the wall half-way up to the window -sills, is of the same period. This is evident from the flat band, -chamfered at top and bottom, which runs along thus far, and is a -characteristic feature of early work. - -The building of the western portion by Wishart is described with -considerable minuteness in the _Orygynale Cronykill_, by Andrew Wyntown, -who was a canon of the priory. He says (Vol. I., p. 390):-- - - “Wilyhame Wyschard wes blessyd in Scone. - Sevyn yhere and a half wes he - Byschape, and gert byggyt be - Nere all the body of the Kyrke: - Quhare that he begowth to wyrk, - Yhit men may the Taknys se - Apper and be affinnetè, - Ewyn owth[16] the thryd Pillare - Frá the Chawnselare Dure[17] sene thare; - Báth wndyre, and owth that south part, - And the north syd swá westwart, - And that west Gáivil alsuá - In-til hys tyme all gert he má. - And bot of hys Ethchettis[18] hále - Hys Kyrk he endyd Cathedyrale, - Bath in the Stane, and Thak, and Tre - The body of hys Kyrk thus he - In all thyng gert be byggyt welle, - That langyt til it ilke dele.” - -[Illustration: FIG. 442.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Original East End.] - -Nothing is said about an earlier west end, but the description applies -well to the later upper story of the south wall (see Fig. 448) and the -lower story of the west end of the nave (see Fig. 450). - -[Illustration: FIG. 443.--St. Andrews Cathedral. East End: Exterior.] - -The east end wall is not now in its original condition, but enough -remains to show what it was originally. Fig. 442 shows its first -condition when it was divided into three stories, with three windows in -each, similar to those still remaining in the lower story (Fig. 443). -The windows of the top range had in the interior (Fig. 444) shoulders at -the springing of the arch similar to those of the windows still standing -in the nave and transept. Nothing remains to show how the apex was -designed. The windows of the two upper stories were almost entirely -abolished during the first half of the fifteenth century, when one large -window was inserted with simple tracery, of which enough remains to -enable the design to be reconstructed (Fig. 445). The arch of this -window is very slightly pointed, and is indeed semicircular in its -inner ring, the object being to get as much extra height as possible -without penetrating into the corbel course of the apex, the - -[Illustration: FIG. 444.--St. Andrews Cathedral. East End: Interior.] - -cornice outside being, however, slightly raised in the centre over the -top of the arch. The jambs and arch springers of the original windows, -which did not require to be removed, have been left to tell the tale of -the original design (see Figs. 443 and 444). We have in this east end an -example of the Norman style of designing a façade by piling story above -story, altered at a later date by the insertion of one large traceried -window, so as to bring the façade into harmony with the later style of -designing similar façades. From the small portions of the north and -south walls still standing, it is evident that the same design as in the -east wall of three stories was continued westwards in the choir. The -upper story consisted of an arcade, having a central light in each bay, -and an arch on each side opening into the passage which ran along the -centre of the wall (see Fig. 444). On the outside these side openings -were represented by blind arches. Against the north-east corner of the -east wall a high angular buttress has been built (see Plan), having -massive base mouldings of probably fifteenth century work. A similar -buttress is indicated in the plan of the cathedral shown in Lyon’s -_History of St. Andrews_ as having existed at the opposite corner. The -object of these buttresses is not apparent, as the east end wall shows -no sign of weakness, although it has been badly used when the buttresses -were built by having its corner stones pulled out. For the preservation -of the structure the corners, which have been removed, ought to be -replaced, seeing that the east wall now stands quite detached. The blank -wall of the presbytery beneath the lower windows of the east end (see -Fig. 444) appears to have been ornamented with an arcade, the blocks for -the bases of the shafts being still _in situ_. The arcade must have been -merely placed against the wall, and not bonded into it in the usual way, -or else there would have been some remains or indications of it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 445.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Window inserted in East -End.] - -In the foundations of the east wall there can be seen fragments of -ancient sculptured stones, and it has been proposed that these should be -removed; but fortunately, for the preservation of the structure, that -idea has been abandoned. - -The presbytery had a groined vault springing from lofty angle shafts. -The ribs are crossed by a curious horizontal band, at the level where -the vaulting becomes of arched construction. This groining may possibly -have been renewed at the time the alterations were made on the east -wall. The angle buttresses may have been built at the same time, -although, strangely, at the points where they were least required. - -[Illustration: FIG. 446.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Section of Piers.] - -The central aisle of the choir and nave is of the same width as the -presbytery. Several of the piers of the choir still remain to a -considerable height above the base. Their section, and also those of the -nave piers, are shown in Fig. 446. The side aisles were vaulted, as is -indicated by the bases of the vaulting shafts. - -The presbytery floor is two steps up from the choir; the steps still -exist between the two eastmost pillars. To the eastward of these there -are foundations as if of a wall across the church. Adjoining this there -is a large stone slab, measuring about 11 feet 4 inches by 7 feet 8 -inches, with slight square depressions carefully wrought on its surface, -as shown on the Plan. This large slab may have been the covering of a -grave, and the depressions on the surface may have contained brasses. -There is a similar slab in the choir, measuring 10 feet by 5 feet 5½ -inches (see Plan). - -The west wall of the south transept (Fig. 447) has an intersecting -arcade in the lower story, with three round arched windows above, and -graceful arcading between, resting on corbels having square abaci. -Similar windows are continued along the south wall of the nave for four -bays. Westwards of this the nave windows are pointed, and have very -simple tracery (Fig. 448); otherwise there is very little difference in -the design of the south wall of the nave throughout its whole length. -The lower part seems to have been built as far west as the third bay -from the west end during the Transition period. The plan of the wall -shows the same flat buttresses with round angle shafts throughout its -whole length, which are indications of early work. Fig. 449 shows the -cap of the angle shafts of the buttresses, and one of the corbels of the -cornice. The springers of the groining of the south aisle still remain -(see Fig. 447). The groining appears to have been late, and of rather -coarse work. The ribs are struck from centres below the level of their -springing. All the bays have wall ribs, except the two east bays, which -rather indicates that the latter bays were not meant at first to be -vaulted. The vaulting - -[Illustration: Plan of Angle of Transept and Nave. - -FIG. 447.--St. Andrews Cathedral. West Side of Transept and South Side -of Nave.] - -shafts have all the same section, and are without caps, the ribs dying -into the shafts, except in the case of the two eastmost and the westmost -shaft and the angle one at the west wall, which latter does not come to -the ground. These shafts have large caps, uniting the clustered section -into one. The centre aisle of the nave was not vaulted. - -[Illustration: Corbel of Cloister Roof, enlarged. - -FIG. 448.--St. Andrews Cathedral. West End of Nave and Turret of West -End.] - -The south wall of the nave extends considerably westwards beyond the -present west end, and contains the remains of a vaulting shaft in the -position it would naturally have occupied in the spacing of the bays. -This seems to show that the cathedral was originally of greater length -than it now is by at least 34 feet, while it may have extended westwards -an unknown number of bays, each of which would measure 16 feet in width. -The south side of this wall (which is partly built against with modern -erections) shows traces of early arcading. The north wall of the nave -also projects westwards from the present west end for a distance of -about 7 feet. When the original west wall fell, it may have destroyed a -few of the western bays, and this possibly induced Bishop Wishart, when -he rebuilt the west end, to omit these bays, and shorten the cathedral -by so much. - -[Illustration: FIG. 449. St. Andrews Cathedral. Cap of Angle Shafts of -Buttresses and Corbel of Cornice.] - -There is a very puzzling feature in connection with this west front -(Fig. 450) which has never been satisfactorily explained. On each side -of the doorway there rises a vaulting shaft, a few feet higher than the -level of the capitals of the doorway. A similar shaft will be observed -at the angle of the west front and the south wall. Rising from these -shafts are incomplete ragglets, indicating the form of vaults against -the west façade, thus suggesting that there was a western porch. But -such a feature is quite incompatible with the design of the west end, -for had there been such a porch, it would have cut the arcade above the -doorway in two, which is a most unlikely idea. The vaulting shafts and -arches springing from them are a part of the original design and -construction. The arcade also seems at first sight to be so, hence the -difficulty of reconciling these features with the existence of a western -porch. The marks of the arch rise to the apex in the south aisle, and -the arch head might have been completed without interfering with the -arcade. Over the central door the marks of the arch are carried up only -as far as the string course beneath the first arcade. This fact, -together with the later character of the upper part of the building, -would seem to indicate that there has been a change in the design, and -that the original intention of having a wide porch extending along the -whole of the west end has been departed from after the first story was -built up to the level of the above string course, all above that point -being of later design and execution. The style of the architecture -confirms this view. It may be mentioned that the arcade over the west -door is very similar to that over the “Pends” (see Fig. 456), which is, -undoubtedly, a late structure. The lower story of the west end, which is -in the first pointed style, would thus appear to be all that remains of -the façade erected by Bishop Wishart; while the upper portion above the -first string course was rebuilt at a later date, as will be explained -further on. - -[Illustration: FIG. 450.--St. Andrews Cathedral. West Front.] - -[Illustration: Arch Mouldings. - -FIG. 451.--St. Andrews Cathedral. North-East Angle of Cloister.] - -The usual east and west doorways open from the nave into the cloisters, -the eastern one (Fig. 451) being of good transition design. Like all the -openings on the ground level on the cloister side, it was, till -recently, backed up with brick, so as to form a good wall for fruit -trees; but this part of the building has now been opened up under the -instructions of the Marquis of Bute. - -A holy water stoup, in the angle of the transept, adjoins the eastern -door to the cloister, and the corbels which supported the projecting -upper part of the transept wall, and also carried the wall plate of the -cloister roof, are likewise disclosed. A similar stoup exists in the -corresponding position adjoining the cloister door at Melrose. Another -doorway in the south wall, outside the west end, led to the conventual -buildings. A doorway in the south transept aisle (see Plan) led to the -south. - -The chapter house was a room about 26 feet square. It was vaulted with -four central pillars, and was about 15 feet high. The opening to the -chapter house, from the cloisters, consisted of a central doorway with -two side openings. These portions of the building (Fig. 452) are in the -purest style of early pointed architecture, and, happily, they are in a -fairly complete state of preservation, only the central pillars of the -side openings, which had two lights, being wanting. These are shown as -if restored in Fig. 453. The round caps and bases and the dog-tooth -ornament are distinctive of the style. The round arched doorway on the -north leads from the cloister to the slype. The chapter house appears to -have been built before the middle of the thirteenth century. About a -century later (1298-1328) Bishop Lamberton erected a new chapter house -to the east (as shown on the Plan). Of this extension only the south -wall remains, showing thirteen seats in arched recesses, the eastern -seat being apart from the others. The return of the east wall remains, -together with a portion of a continuous seat. The wall between the old -and new chapter house is very much reduced in height. It contains an -opening in the style of the entrance from the cloister, and has had a -central doorway with side openings. The old chapter house then became -the vestibule to the new one. - -The size of the new chapter house was about 47 feet by 26 feet. It was -groined in two bays, and probably the vault extended from wall to wall -without central pillars. - -Spottiswoode (page 34) says of Bishop Lamberton that he adorned the -chapter house with “curious seats and ceeling,” and Fordun mentions that -Joannes de Gourie, the twelfth prior, died in 1340, and was buried in -“Novo Capitulo.”[19] Winton and Martine also state that on the -completion of this addition to the chapter house, in 1318, the Cathedral -of St. Andrews was dedicated by Bishop Lamberton, assisted by seven -bishops and fifteen abbots, in presence of King Robert the Bruce and a -great assembly of gentlemen. South of the original chapter house are the -remains of what - -[Illustration: FIG. 452.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Entrance to Chapter -House.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 453.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Entrance to Chapter -House. Plan and Elevation.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 454.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Plan showing Conventual -and other Buildings.] - -was probably the fratry. On the upper floor, which formerly existed -above this building and the chapter house, was the dormitory; the wheel -stair leading to it from the south transept still exists in the -south-west angle of the south transept. This dormitory was built by John -Quhite, the seventh prior, between 1236 and 1258, being about the period -to which the building of the original chapter house would, from its -style, be assigned. This prior also built the refectory, which occupied -the south side of the cloister. It was, according to Martine (p. 187), -108 feet long by 28 feet wide, and had, at the east end, “a four square -room for copes and albs, &c., besides the common vestiarie.” - -[Illustration: FIG. 455.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Doorways in West Wall -of Fratery.] - -The Plan (Fig. 454)[20] shows the conventual and other buildings -attached to the cathedral. These have recently been excavated by -instructions of the Marquis of Bute, and are found to correspond with -the above figures given by Martine. Two doorways of first pointed style -in the west wall of the fratry (Fig. 455) have also been opened up. - -The west side of the cloister was occupied by the sub-prior’s house, -known also as the Senzie house. To the south of it was the Senzie -chamber, which appears to have been enlarged at the beginning of the -sixteenth century into a room 80 feet by 20 feet, in order to form the -library of the adjoining College of St. Leonards. The extending of this -room blocked up the west windows of the refectory, and, doubtless, the -existing arched cellars shown on the Plan were beneath this chamber. - -The building seen on the Plan to the south-east of the chapter house -seems, from Martine’s description, to be part of the remains of the -prior’s house, called also the Hospitium Vetus, or the Old Inn. It was -a large building, occupying the ground to the east of the fratry, and -was sometimes the residence of the bishop. - -To the west of the cathedral are the stately remains of the entrance -gateway, called the “Pends” (Fig. 456). Only the shell of the building -now remains, with the springers of the groined vaulting. It measures -about 80 feet in length by 23 feet in width. - -[Illustration: FIG. 456.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Entrance to the “Pends” -or Gatehouse.] - -In continuation of the “Pends” is the enclosing wall of the priory -grounds. This is a very extensive structure (Fig. 457), still in good -preservation. It is about 22 feet high and 4 feet thick. As will be seen -from the Plan, it circles round till it reaches the north-east corner of -the cathedral, at which point it is seen in the view (see Fig. 444). The -length of the wall is about 1150 yards. In Martine’s time it contained -sixteen towers; at present thirteen are partly standing. There is a wide -gate in the wall to the south (Fig. 458) defended by towers (see =S=, Fig. -457). It is the common “entrie for carts with the teynd sheaves of the -prior aikers.” Close to it stood the “teynd barne and teynd yaird.” - -NORTH SEA - -[Illustration: - -A. Cathedral. -B. St. Regulus. -C. Kirkheugh. -D. Prior’s Lodging, or Hospitium Vetus. -E. Cloisters. -F. Manse. -G. Entrance to Abbey from Street. -H. St. Leonards Church. -J. St. Leonards College. -K. Site of New Inn. -L. Tiend Barn. -M. Mill Race. -N. Mill Dam. -O. O. Mill Sluice. -P. Abbey Mill. -Q. Holy Well. -R. Harbour Gate. -S. Gate to Cornfields. -T. Dovecot and Tower. - -FIG. 457.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Plan showing Enclosing Wall of Priory -Grounds.] The gate in the east wall (see =R=, Fig. 457), which is close -to the harbour, and is called the Harbour Gate, is shown in Fig. 459. -This wall was built by Prior Hepburn, whose arms are to be seen on -several of the towers, and one bears the date of 1520. - -Martine informs us that amongst the other buildings scattered throughout -the grounds were the following (most of which are shown in Fig. 457), -viz.:-- - - THE GUEST HOUSE, within the precinct of St. Leonard’s College. It - was built by John White, seventh prior, about the middle of the - thirteenth century. Part of the wall is believed to be still - standing. - - THE NEW INN. “It is thought this was the last building about the - abbacie before the Reformation,” and to have been built as a - retreat for Magdalene, Queen of James V., who, however, did not - live to visit it, as she died in 1537. Only the entrance gateway of - this building now remains. It contains the Scottish arms and the - arms of Prior Hepburn. The New Inn was afterwards the occasional - residence of the archbishop. - - [Illustration: FIG. 458.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Enclosing Wall, - with Gateway and Towers.] - - THE GRANARY stood to the north-east of the New Inn. Part of the - east side wall is thought to be still standing, and on the east - side of this is the monastery well, shown on the Plan. - - THE ABBEY MILL, with the mill dam and mill lead, sluices, &c., are - shown on the Plan (Fig. 457), and are still in use. - - THE TIEND BARN still stands in the neighbourhood of the mill, and - is still utilised. - -Numerous other buildings are mentioned by Martine, such as the Brew -House (which stood near the mill), the Malt House, Bear Girnell, -Promptwarium, Hortus Gladiatorius, Barnsdeall-Yaird, &c., of which no -remains survived in his time. - -Besides these buildings directly connected with the priory and cathedral -there still exists, opposite the west end of the latter, the manse of -the archdeacon, “commonlie called the archdeacon’s inns.”[21] - -[Illustration: FIG. 459.--St. Andrews Cathedral. Priory. Harbour Gate.] - -Among other bishops who were builders of portions of the cathedral, not -already mentioned, was William Malvoisine (1202-33). According to -Spottiswoode, he “advanced the fabrick (which was then a-building) more -than any that went before him.” It is probable that part of the nave -(most of which Winton credits to Wishart) may have been built by him. - -In the time of Bishop William de Landel (1341-85), in the year 1378, the -cathedral suffered considerably from fire. The bishop and the prior, -Stephen de Pay, repaired the damage. According to Winton they renewed -all the woodwork of the roof of the transepts, choir, and aisles with -“aiken werk of Tre,” and covered them with “Thak of Lide.” The two -pillars in the north and south transepts appear to have been so much -damaged that they had to be entirely renewed, the wall above having to -be supported. According to Winton-- - - “Twa pillaris new on ilka syde - In that Corskyrk war made that tyde, - As yhe may se thaim apperand - Undyre the auld werk yhit standand.” (B. ix.) - -The pillars are gone, only the foundations of the two south ones -remaining; but it is interesting to observe on the spot that the respond -still standing against the south transept wall is of the style one would -expect to find in work of the fourteenth century. Winton further says -that at the same time “a quartare of the stepil of stane wes made,” -which probably means that the central tower was raised, but not the -spire. - -According to Winton,[22] the fire destroyed the south half of the nave, -from the west end eastwards to, and including, the ninth pillar. As -these nine pillars were renewed, with the help of certain lords whose -arms were carved on them, possibly, as in the case of the transepts, the -wall and roof above were supported during this operation. - - “Lytil overe sevyn (7) years their gert wyrk - And mak all this werk of the kyrk.” - -From the _Exchequer Rolls_[23] of 1381-84, we find that the Crown -contributed to the rebuilding of the cathedral at this time. Perhaps the -upper portion of the west front above referred to was rebuilt at this -period. Although the work is much decayed, its character would lead to -that belief. The restoration begun by Bishop Landel was completed by -Bishop Wardlaw (1404-40). He improved the interior by the introduction -of fine pavements in the choir, transept, and nave. He also filled the -windows with stained glass. - -Of the minor works of the cathedral almost nothing remains. There are a -few flat tombstones with inscriptions[24] still legible, but of the -tombs of Bishops Gameline, Lamberton, and Walter Trail not a vestige is -left. Winton, who saw these tombs, the last having been built in his own -time, thus refers to them in describing the death of Lamberton. - - “ ... In the north half of the new kyrke- - Cathedral, an arch he gert men wyrke, - Now seen betwene Tombis twa, - Of Gamyle the eastmast is of tha. - And, in a space that was levyd (raised), - Be-twene the Pulpyte and his Hevyd (head). - Ane Arche of fayre werk and of fyne - The Byschape Waltyr gert make syne. - Under that tomb now lyis he. - Thus lyand ar thai Byshapys thre - On the north half of the Hey Kyrk (High Kirk) - In Tombys that themselves gert Wyrk.”--(B. VIII., cxxiii.) - -On the north side of the nave, near the west end, there still remains a -built tomb, empty and desecrated, with slight indications of what was a -stately monument in the wall. Of seventeenth century flat stones a large -collection is gathered and preserved in the chapter house. Fig. 452 -shows one of these. Against the north wall of the nave, on the outside, -there are three square foundations (see Plan). Two of these may possibly -be the foundations of a porch. - -The cathedral was in a very ruinous state when Martine wrote (1685). -Apparently the north half of the west gable fell in his time, and, -considering the sudden wrench to the structure caused by this -catastrophe, had the remaining half not been a good piece of masonry, it -might easily have followed. - -Fifty years before Martine wrote, when Spottiswoode was archbishop, in -1635, the restoration of the cathedral was provided for. The rents and -fruits of the benefice, except a small sum reserved for the archbishop, -were to be applied for “building and repairing the cathedrall,” until -the same “be perfected and finisht.” “And the church being finished then -and no sooner,” the archbishop and his successors were to have the full -privilege of the use of the rents, but subject to the upholding of the -fabric. The structure would thus appear not to have been in a very -ruinous state at that time. Nothing appears, however, to have been done, -and the work of destruction was continued, and soon reduced the church -to nearly its present condition. - - -ST. MARY’S CHURCH, KIRKHEUGH, ST. ANDREWS. - -This church is situated between the cathedral wall on the north-east and -the sea (see =C=, Fig. 457). It was entirely lost sight of till the year -1860, when the foundations were exposed. Little else remains except the -foundations. The east wall rises about 3 feet above the ground, and the -other walls run from nearly level with the surface to about 2 feet in -height. The structure (Fig. 460) consisted of a nave, transepts, and -chancel. The nave and chancel do not coincide in their orientation. -There was probably a low central tower supported on four arches, with a -stair to the tower at the north-west corner, where the foundation of -what appears to have been the stair turret is traceable. The remains of -a bench are visible in the north transept. The chancel is the best -preserved portion, and is of the first pointed period. It has a base all -round, including the buttresses, of which those at the north-east corner -have disappeared. There has been a narrow splayed doorway on the north -side. A projecting piece of masonry in the south wall may have been a -sedilia. A large square of masonry, 11 feet by 4 feet 4 inches, at the -east end suggests the position of an altar. There is an early slab in -the chancel, carved with a cross, set on steps, and a sword beside it. -Another monument, of a hog-backed type, lies to the north of the nave. -The existence of other stones at further distances indicate this as the -position of an ancient cemetery. The masonry of the chancel is finer -than that of the nave and transept, but which is the earlier it is not -possible to say with any confidence. - -[Illustration: FIG. 460.--St. Mary’s Church. Plan.] - -The history of this chapel, with a descriptive account, will be found in -the _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries_, Session 1860-61, Vol. -IV. p. 82. The internal dimensions of the chapel are:--Length of nave, -27 feet; width, 18 feet 11 inches. Length of chancel, 46 feet 8½ inches; -width, 20 feet 2 inches. Total length inside, 97 feet 11½ inches; -outside, 105 feet. - - -ARBROATH ABBEY, FORFARSHIRE. - -The ancient town of Arbroath stands on the east coast of Forfarshire, -and the massive ruins of its great abbey, as seen from the sea, rising -above the houses of the town, present an image of decay and desolation. - -The abbey was founded by King William the Lion towards the end of the -twelfth century. It was richly endowed, and soon became one of the -wealthiest and most powerful monasteries in the kingdom. The inmates -were of the Tironensian order, and the first monks were brought to -Arbroath from Kelso Abbey. - -King William, having been taken prisoner at Alnwick in 1174, was -confined at Falaise, in Normandy, but regained his liberty, and returned -to Scotland, in 1176. Immediately on his return he proceeded to found -the Abbey of Arbroath, which he dedicated to Saint Mary and St. Thomas à -Becket. The latter had been murdered at Canterbury only four years -before, and it is doubtful whether King William was attached to his -memory by personal friendship or by sympathy with the saint in his -opposition to the King of England. - -By the year 1178 part of the church was ready for dedication. William -the Lion died in 1214, and was buried in the east end of the edifice, -which was then finished. Shortly afterwards the south transept was -sufficiently well advanced to admit of the burial within it, before the -altar of St. Catherine, of Gilchrist, Earl of Angus. On the 18th of -March 1233, during the time of Abbot Ralph de Lamley, the church was -dedicated. The time occupied in the erection and completion of the -structure was thus a little over fifty-five years, and when its -dimensions are considered, it will be found in comparison with other -churches to have been carried on with great rapidity. - -The above dates are useful as indicating the progress of the transition -and pointed styles in Scotland. The choir and transept, although still -retaining a few reminiscences of the transition in the round arches -interspersed among the pointed arches, are essentially first pointed in -style. The retention of the round arch here, as elsewhere in Scotland, -is a common feature throughout the whole course of Gothic art. In the -west doorway, and also in the gallery over it, there are distinct -elements of transition work; but the external and internal windows of -the gallery, and the main features of the towers, are decidedly first -pointed in style. Possibly the west doorway and gallery were begun at an -early stage of the building, and the west end, after being stopped for a -time, was completed at a later date. - -As showing the eagerness with which King William pushed on the -buildings, Hollinshed mentions[25] that “the king came by the Abbey of -Aberbrothoc to view the work of that house, how it went forward, -commanding them that were overseers and masters of the works to spare -for no cost, but to bring it up to perfection, and that with -magnificence.” - -The abbey church (Fig. 461) consisted of a choir of three bays, with -side aisles and an aisleless presbytery; a nave of nine bays, with -aisles and north and south transepts, with eastern aisles. There were -two western towers, and one large tower over the crossing. - -The following are the principal dimensions of the edifice:-- - - Length (external measurement from east to west, not including - buttresses), 293 feet. - - Breadth (external measurement from north to south, not including - buttresses), 74 feet. - - Length of transept (external measurement from north to south, not - including buttresses), 147 feet. - - Width of transept over walls (external measurement from east to - west, not including buttresses), 54 feet. - -Considerable portions of these different divisions of the edifice still -remain, but the greater part of the north side of the choir, the north -transept and nave, and almost all the piers and pillars have been swept - -[Illustration: FIG. 461.--Arbroath Abbey. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 462.--Arbroath Abbey. Interior of East End.] - -away. Beginning at the east end, the eastern wall (Fig. 462) is entire -for nearly half its height, having an arcade below, and three lancet -windows above, with the lower portions of an upper row of similar -windows. Somewhat less of the return wall of the south side of the -presbytery, which comprises two bays, remains, and adjoining it is the -sacristy (Fig. 463), a late building in a fair state of preservation. -The end wall of the south transept is almost complete, together with a -considerable portion of the west wall of the transept (Fig. 464.) This, -being the best preserved portion of the structure, gives a good idea of -the grandeur of the church. The whole of the south wall of the nave -remains, showing a row of windows and indications of the groining of the -aisle (Fig. 465). The main or centre aisle was not vaulted, but covered -with a wooden roof. Most of the bases of the pillars of the nave - -[Illustration: FIG. 463.--Arbroath Abbey. View from South-East. (From a -Drawing by the late Mr. Michie, artist.)] - -[Illustration: FIG. 464.--Arbroath Abbey. South Transept and Sacristy.] - -are in position, as are also the foundations of the north transept. The -fragment of the west end with the two towers left standing (Fig. 466) is -very striking, and impresses one with the sense of bold, vigorous work -rather than of refinement of detail, although there is also a mixture of -both, of which the west doorway (Fig. 467) is an example. It is round -arched, and its outer order, if it may be so called, extends inwards for -about five feet, unadorned as a bold and plain tunnel arch, having a - -[Illustration: FIG. 465.--Arbroath Abbey. Interior of Nave and South -Transept.] - -pointed arch in each ingoing. It then becomes shafted and richly -moulded, after the transition manner. This arrangement, while it gives a -fine shadow under the arch, has a feeling of rudeness, which, to a -considerable extent, characterises the whole west front. There is a -remarkable resemblance in the decoration of this doorway to that of the -doorway in the porch of Lerida Cathedral, Spain, supposing the tunnel -arch of Arbroath away, and the moulded part brought forward to the face -of the wall (Fig. 468), as is the case at Lerida (Fig. 469.) In both -instances the outer enrichment of the zig-zag ornament is separated by a -few mouldings from a large bead enriched at regular intervals by a ring - -[Illustration: FIG. 466.--Arbroath Abbey. West End of Church and -North-West Tower.] - -round the bead. The inner mouldings at Lerida are further enriched, -while at Arbroath the orders are simply moulded; but the sequence of the -first two orders of enrichment is interesting from its occurring in two -buildings probably erected at about the same time and at such a great -distance apart. A similar ring ornament, on a large scale, is also to be -seen in a doorway at Lamington, Lanarkshire,[26] where it is likewise -used along with the zig-zag, but there the ringed order is the outer -enrichment. - -[Illustration: FIG. 467.--Arbroath Abbey. West Doorway and Gallery -over.] - -The rude appearance of the west front, to which we have referred, is -increased by the removal of the outer part of a gallery which existed -over this doorway. The inner part of this gallery still remains, and a - -[Illustration: FIG. 468.--Arbroath Abbey. - -Jamb and Arch Mouldings of West Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 469.--Larida Cathedral. - -Doorway of Porch. - -(From Street’s _Spain_.)] - -view and plan of it are given (Figs. 470 and 471). From these it will be -seen that within the great thickness of the wall (20 feet 3 inches) a -chamber of considerable size has been obtained, which opens into the -nave by six pointed arches (Fig. 472), and to the outside over the -doorway by three arches (see Fig. 467). As already stated, the original -outer features are gone, and only the rugged skeleton remains. It is -quite obvious from Fig. 467 and from the Plan (see Fig. 471) that three -gablets projected outwards from the wall for a distance of about 4 feet, -supported on two intermediate shafts (marked =X X=), and that the gallery -was closed in at each end with walls or haffits, both of which still in -part remain. It is thus apparent that we now see the west front robbed -of its most unique features, and the bare masonry exposed, which was -never meant to be seen. This gallery was reached by a long passage at -each end from stairs in the angle buttresses. It probably was a gallery -for an orchestra, and it would also be suitable as a pulpit from which -to address an audience in the open air. As above mentioned, it is -probable that this part of the building was erected at two different -times, the west doorway and some of the pillars of the gallery being in -the early transition style, while the triple windows to the front and -the six-light - -[Illustration: FIG. 470.--Arbroath Abbey. Gallery over West Doorway.] - -arcade towards the interior are in the first pointed style. When the -gallery was completed in the first pointed period, the floor space was -enlarged by extending it to the front, hence the necessity for the deep -tunnel arch over the west doorway. The pointed arches in the ingoing -also indicate the first pointed period. - -Above this gallery there was an immense circular window, of which only a -portion survives. - -The western towers opened with arches into the north and south and -central aisles (see Fig. 472), but only the north tower retains its -massive pier and arches. Of the south tower nothing but the foundation -of the pier exists. - -[Illustration: FIG. 471.--Arbroath Abbey. Plan of Gallery over West -Doorway.] - -The south wall of the transept (see Fig. 464) is comparatively plain on -the outside, merely the upper part being visible above the dormitory -roof. The façade presents two plain lancet windows, one very much -shorter than the other to admit of the before-mentioned roof, and above -the lancets a large wheel window occupies the gable. The interior of the -transept (Fig. 473) is a very grand design in the early pointed style. -The lancets are splayed to a great width in the interior with banded -nook shafts on the sconsions, and arched above in the simplest manner -without any mouldings. Beneath the lancets there is a round arched open -arcade having a passage behind it, and beneath this two tiers of wall -arcades with pointed arches, the central arcade being very acutely -pointed, and the lower one not so decidedly pointed, and with trefoil -cusps in the arches. A staircase in the south-east angle of the transept -gave access to the dormitory by the door which is seen built up on the -outside (see Fig. 464). This staircase also leads to the various -passages in the thickness of the walls shown in Fig. 473. The doorway -leading from the church to this stair (Fig. 474) ranges with the lower -pointed arcade, and is round arched. The west return wall of the -transept is very bold and grand, as seen from the interior (see Fig. -473). The lower arcade of the south end is continued along the west -wall, and above this two - -[Illustration: FIG. 472.--Arbroath Abbey. Interior of West End. - -(From a Sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson, Dundee.)] - -windows widely splayed, and having nook shafts on the sconsions, rise to -a great height and are finished with moulded circular arches in the -interior and pointed lancets in the exterior. All the lofty windows in -the south transept have passages on two floors. The upper passage -running along this wall must have been connected with some kind of -bridge thrown across the windows. There are indications of rests for -beams doubtless connected with this arrangement, which would probably - -[Illustration: FIG. 473.--Arbroath Abbey. Interior of South Transept.] - -be of a temporary nature. The transepts had chapels on the east side. -The respond of the great arcade against the south wall (see Fig. 474) is -beautiful in detail. Above this there exist fragments of the responds -of - -[Illustration: FIG. 474.--Arbroath Abbey. South-East Angle of South -Transept.] - -the triforium story and the clerestory. All the above features of this -part of the abbey point plainly to its having some lingering remains of -transition style, retaining as it does some round arches along with the -general pointed features of the design. - -The sacristy or vestry was built by Abbot Walter Paniter between 1411 -and 1433. It is a two story building, the ground floor having a groined -ceiling still entire, but the upper room being roofless. Externally, -this structure is severe and simple in style (see Fig. 463), while in -the interior there is considerable richness of ornament, with details of -a somewhat rude kind. It contains many features which identify it as -work of the fifteenth century, such, for example, as the caps of the -shafts of the doorway (Fig. 475). The sacristy is in a good state of -preservation. - -[Illustration: FIG. 475.--Arbroath Abbey. Caps of Doorway.] - -Of the conventual buildings only fragments now remain. An octagonal -turret (see Fig. 461) marks the south-east corner of the chapter house -with the south and east return walls, and adjoining the south transept -is the slype, the walls of which determine the other walls of the -chapter house. On the wall of the south transept is clearly seen the -mark of the dormitory roof, with the door between the church and -dormitory now built up. - -A range of erections, and a lofty wall which formed the northern -enclosure of the abbey precincts (Fig. 476), extend westwards from the -church, in a line with the south aisle, for a distance of about 190 -feet. This north wall, and a portion of the west wall proceeding -southward from it, are all that remain of the extensive enclosure of the -abbey, which is - -[Illustration: FIG. 476.--Arbroath Abbey. North Enclosing Wall and -Gateway.] - -said to have been of great height, and to have extended 1150 feet on the -east and west, 760 feet on the north, and 480 feet on the south. There -were great towers at the angles and entrance gateways on the north, and -at the south-east angle. In the centre of the existing north wall is the -portcullis entrance gatehouse, which is about 24 feet wide, with a -vaulted enclosure about 65 feet long. The front wall (Fig. 477) is -almost entire, and - -[Illustration: FIG. 477.--Arbroath Abbey. Front of North Gatehouse.] - -the upper floor window is crossed by the corbels which carried the -movable wooden hoarding which was erected over the gateway when required -for its defence. The side walls are entire, and show remains of the -groined roof and strong gates for defence. The roof and gates were -destroyed by the Town Council in 1800. At the western extremity of the -north enclosing wall (see Figs. 466 and 476) there exists a large square -tower, three stories in height, in the inside, but four stories on the -outside, owing to the fall of the ground. The two lower floors are round -vaulted, the upper vault having ribs, with a door of access from the -precinct secured with a sliding bar. The upper floors (see Fig. 461), -which were living apartments, were reached by a high door, and only -communicated with the floors below by means of a trap, as in the case of -many of the pele towers. The two upper floors, which contained -fireplaces and windows with stone seats, are connected with a wheel -stair in the north-west corner. The cape house on top is said to have -been removed during this century. This tower formed the north-west -corner of the abbey precinct.[27] - -[Illustration: FIG. 478.--Arbroath Abbey. Abbot’s House from North-East. - -(From a Sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)] - -The building adjoining the tower to the east was called the Regality -Court-house. It entered from the street, and was about 40 feet long by -18 feet wide, and had a groined ceiling. The next apartment running up -to the gateway entered from the precinct. It was about 28 feet long, and -had a barrel vault, with massive splayed ribs similar to those of the -tower. The range of buildings between the gateway and the church are of -two stories, the lower story having a groined ceiling. - -[Illustration: FIG. 479.--Arbroath Abbey. Abbot’s House from South-West. - -(From a Drawing by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)] - -One of the most interesting and best preserved buildings is the abbot’s -house on the south side of the cloister (see Fig. 461). It is three -stories high, the two upper floors being converted into a modern private -dwelling-house (Figs. 478 and 479). Having been used at one time as a -thread manufactory, the house has been altered externally and spoiled of -its ancient internal fittings, with the exception of two fine carved -panels, one representing the Virgin (Fig. 480), and the other a large -Scotch thistle (Fig. 481). The ground floor contains the kitchen--a fine -apartment with central pillars supporting a groined roof--with a large -arched fireplace in the west end. The other offices connected with the -kitchen are all vaulted. The house is extremely picturesque and -valuable, being the best preserved abbot’s house in Scotland. - -[Illustration: FIG. 480.--Arbroath Abbey. - -Carved Panel in Abbot’s House. - -(From a Drawing by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)] - -During the 350 years of the existence of Arbroath Abbey many events -happened entailing changes in the buildings. Thus, in 1272, a great fire -occurred in the town, in which the abbey suffered. In particular the -north-west tower is supposed to have been partly wrecked, and to have -been rebuilt and carried to a greater height than formerly, or, at -least, higher than the other tower. Again, in 1350, a grant was made by -William, Bishop of St. Andrews, to enable the repairs to be completed of -the “almost irreparable injuries” the abbey had suffered “from the -frequent assaults of the English shipping.”[28] In 1380 the church was -again injured by fire. So serious was this conflagration that the monks -had to be distributed among other religious houses till the roofs of the -choir, nave, and transepts were repaired. In connection with the repairs -there is preserved in the Chartulary an interesting contract between - -[Illustration: Fig. 481.--Arbroath Abbey. Carved Panel in Abbot’s House. - -(From a Drawing by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)] - -Abbot John Gedy and William of Tweddale, plumber, which is as follows:-- - -“This endentur beris wytnes that the yer of grace MCCCXCIIII. (1394-5), -the xvi. day of the moneth of Feveryer, this _cunnande_ (covenant) was -made betwene Johnne, abbot of Aberbrothoe, of the ta part, and Wilyam -Plumer of Tweddale, burges of the cite of Andirstoun (St Andrews), of -the tothir part; that is to say, that Wilyam Plumer sal theke the mekil -quer wyth lede, and guttyr yt al abowt sufficiandly wyth lede, for the -quhilkis thekyn and gutteryn the abbot sal pay till him xxxv. marcis at -syndry termys, as he is wyrkand; and of the xxxv. marcis, v. marcis sal -dwel style in the abbotis hand quhillys the quer be thekyt and _alurryt_ -(battlemented) al abowyt with stane, and quhen it is allurryt about with -stane he sal dycht it abowt wyth lede sufficiandly, as his craft askys; -and quhen he has endyt that werk he sal be payt of v. marcis and a gown -with a hude till his reuarde. Quhilk Wilyam Plumer sal fynd a man on his -awn cost, and the abbot and convent a man alsua of thar cost quhil the -werk be fullyly endyt. The abbot and the convent sall fynd al maner of -gratht that pertenys to that werk quhil is wyrkande. Willam sal haf -alsua for ilk stane fynyne that he fynys of lede iijd. (3 pennies), and -a stane of ilk hynder that he fynys til his travel, and that day that he -wyrkis he sal haf a penny till his _noynsankys_ (luncheon).” The -indenture was then cut into two parts, and one half given to each of the -parties, after receiving the seal of the other party.[29] About fifteen -months after the work was finished William granted a receipt to the -abbot for £20 sterling, paid to him for the _architectura magni chori_, -and in full of all his claims for purifying or fining the lead, for his -_nonesankys_, and the gown with the hood, as specified in the indenture. - -In 1470, and for a few years after, there were extensive repairs made, -especially in connection with the roofs and other woodwork of the -monastic buildings, and mention is made of the “building of our -dormitory of new.” - -The structures of the abbey do not appear to have suffered at the hands -of the Reformers, but the revenues having become the property of the -Hamiltons, and being probably appropriated to their private use, there -were no funds to keep up the buildings, and hence they gradually fell -into decay, and were freely used by the magistrates and towns people as -a quarry. In 1580 the Duke of Lennox, Esme Stuart d’Aubigne, gave a -grant to the Town Council,[30] to “tak away all and hail ye stainis, -tymmer, and other pertinents of our house, ye dormitory in ye said -Abbey.” This was for the purpose of supplying materials “for biggyn of -ane kirk.” That work does not appear[31] to have been accomplished till -ten years later, up to which time service was conducted in the lady -chapel, “stripped of its altars and images.” - - -HOLYROOD ABBEY, EDINBURGH. - -The traditional story connected with the foundation and name of this -monastery is well known--viz., that a rood or cross miraculously passed -into the hands of King David I., and thus saved his life when attacked -by a stag in hunting, in commemoration of which he erected an abbey to -the Holy Rood. The abbey was founded by David I., and richly endowed -early in the twelfth century, and building is said to have commenced in -1128. The house was colonised by Canons Regular of the Order of St. -Augustine, brought from St. Andrews. Being so near the capital, the -abbey became a favourite place of sojourn of the kings of Scotland, -especially after the accession of the Stewarts to the throne. Robert -III. and James I. lived in the abbey. James II. was born and resided -there, and was buried in the church. James III. and James IV. stayed -much at Holyrood, and the latter began the erection of a palace attached -to, but distinct from, the monastery. The palace was extended by James -V., and formed the chief scene of many of the incidents in Queen Mary’s -reign.[32] - -The abbey church was a structure of great size and of beautiful -architecture. It consisted of the usual divisions, having nave, choir, -and transepts, with aisles and probably a lady chapel to the east, two -western towers, and a tower over the crossing. But of all that splendid -structure there now only remain the ruins of the nave and one western -tower. The abbey and palace were frequently attacked and burnt by the -English, particularly under Hertford in 1544, and the abbey was again -destroyed by Somerset in 1547. At the latter date the monks had left the -abbey, and the invaders stripped the lead off the roofs of the -buildings. These “visitations” seem to have led to the serious injury of -the choir; but the choir and transept do not appear to have been -completely ruined till after 1569. At that date, Adam, Bishop of Orkney -and Commendator of Holyrood, stated to the General Assembly that “the -Abbay Church of Halyrud house hath been these 20 years bygane ruinous, -through decay of two principall pillars, so that none were assured under -it ... he purposed to provide the means that the superfluous ruinous -parts to wit the Queir and Croce Kirk might be disponed to faithfull men -to repair the remanent sufficiently.”[33] The bishop’s proposal was -apparently carried out, and the materials of the choir and transept were -demolished and sold “to provide funds for converting the nave into the -Parish Kirk of the Canongate.” - -The two pillars referred to by the bishop as unsafe were probably the -east pillars of the crossing, which are now removed, but the two west -pillars still stand. They form the east end of the existing nave. Sir D. -Wilson believes that, when the choir was taken down, the vault which -contained the remains of the kings and queens of Scotland was built in -the south-east angle of the nave, and their coffins transferred into it. - -Holyrood Palace was the principal residence in Scotland of James VI. and -Charles I. The latter took considerable interest in the church, and -wished to restore it as the chapel royal. He had the west end -re-edified, as the style of the architecture of the upper portion and -the inscriptions thereon bear witness. - -James VII. of Scotland (while Duke of York) lived for a considerable -time in the palace, and had a wish to restore the church and make it the -place of meeting of the Knights of St. Andrew. But his operations were -disapproved of by the populace, and all the fittings were destroyed by -the mob in 1688. The tombs of the royal family were, at the same time, -desecrated, and the remains scattered over the pavement. After the -middle of the eighteenth century an attempt was made to restore the -nave, and the roof was covered with heavy stone flags. But the materials -employed were too heavy for the old walls, and the new roof fell in -1768, drawing down with it the whole of the vaulting and clerestory. At -the same time, the tombs of the kings were again pillaged, and Captain -Grose describes having seen some of the remains exposed and defiled by -the populace. - -The nave (Fig. 482), which now alone survives in a ruinous state, -consists of eight bays, the main piers of which are complete on the -south side, but are only represented by two fragments on the north side. -The vaulting of the south aisle also survives, but that of the north -aisle is gone. The north wall of the aisle, however, still stands, and -the east and west ends of the nave are restored. The north-west tower is -still preserved, but its companion tower, which formerly stood at the -south-west angle, was demolished when the palace was rebuilt in the -seventeenth century. Some remains of the cloister are still observable -on the south side of the nave. - -The chief part of the architecture is of the first pointed period; but -at the south-east angle, the doorway (Fig. 483), which led from the -cloister into the nave, is of genuine, though late, Norman architecture. -The doorway had a nook shaft on each side, the divided cushion caps of -which survive. The arch is round, and contains two orders, both -ornamented with varieties of zigzags. These orders are enclosed with a -label, containing a double row of square facets and sinkings. Some -alterations have taken place in the building adjoining the doorway. On -the west side of it runs the wall of the south aisle, the roof of which -rested on a ledge at some height above the doorway. Under this ledge are -the windows of - -[Illustration: FIG. 482.--Holyrood Abbey. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 483.--Holyrood Abbey. South-East Doorway.] - -the south aisle. Two of these windows, that over the doorway and the one -to the west of it, are circular headed, and have a Norman character in -their nook shafts and cushion caps. These windows are, however, - -[Illustration: FIG. 484.--Holyrood Abbey. North Aisle.] - -restorations, probably constructed in imitation of Norman windows which -existed there originally. It will be observed that the inner order of -the arch contains two reprises wrought on the stone, which were -evidently the ends of two simple pieces of tracery springing from a -central mullion. This form of design shows that the construction was -undoubtedly of a late period. Besides, the sconsions of these windows -are wrought with an obtuse nook containing a shaft, so as to correspond -with the other first pointed windows of the south aisle. It is not -improbable that the choir was built before the nave, and was of Norman -work. This supposition may account for the Norman work found in the -first bay of the nave, which may have been erected in connection with -the choir and crossing. - -[Illustration: FIG. 485.--Holyrood Abbey. Arcade in North Aisle.] - -The oldest part of the nave, after the south-east doorway, is the wall -of the north aisle (Fig. 484). The responds opposite the piers are very -bold. Each consists of a central shaft, with sharp edge to the front, -and a round shaft on each side of it. The responds have rounded abaci -and caps all richly carved with foliage, and a moulded band in the -centre. The lower story of the wall contains an arcade of interlacing -arches springing from single shafts, the caps of which have square abaci -and very rich foliage (Fig. 485). The arch mouldings are flat, and -contain a quantity of small nail-head ornament between the rolls. The -windows above the arcade are single lancets--one in each bay (Fig. 486.) -On the exterior the lower part of the wall is - -[Illustration: FIG. 486.--Holyrood Abbey. North Doorway and North Side -of Church.] - -plain, and each lancet has a pair of nook shafts, with simple cap, -having a square abacus. The arch head is in two orders, both splayed, -the outer order having the splay enriched with a series of plain ball - -[Illustration: FIG. 487.--Holyrood Abbey. South Aisle.] - -ornaments. In the interior (see Fig. 484) these windows show a plain -splayed ingoing, the inner sconsion being formed into an obtuse nook, -containing a bold shaft, with cap spreading its foliage widely so as to -fill up the obtuse angle. The arch contains bold first pointed -mouldings. - -[Illustration: FIG. 488.--Holyrood Abbey. Details of South Aisle: -Inside.] - -The south wall of the south aisle (Fig. 487) is designed in a similar -manner to the above, but the details are different and of a rather later -character. The responds, although bold, are different from those of the -north wall, the shafts being all round, and the centre shaft is -separated from the side shafts by a square member, having the angle -chamfered. The caps have the same round abacus and bold foliage as those -of the north side. The lower story contains a wall arcade, having single -pointed arches, with first pointed mouldings. The shafts are free, and -the richly foliaged caps (Fig. 488) have round and square abaci. The -windows over the arcade correspond generally to those in the north wall; -but being above the cloister roof, they are short externally, and the -sill is deeply - -[Illustration: FIG. 489.--Holyrood Abbey. South Wall: Exterior.] - -sloped on the inside. The windows are all pointed, except those of the -two east bays already mentioned. The obtuse nooks for the shafts on the -sconsions of the pointed windows are repeated in the two round-headed -east windows. The lower part of the exterior of the south wall running -westwards from the Norman doorway (Fig. 489) is arcaded with a series -of large pointed arches, each enclosing five smaller pointed arches, and -having a plain wall space between the large and small arches. The caps -of these arcades are all of early first pointed work. The one shown in -Fig. 490 is of peculiar design, having probably been worked on at some -period. Fig. 491 shows one of the caps of the triple shaft supporting -the springing of the large and small arches. The above large arches -were, doubtless, the wall arches for a groined roof over the cloister -walk; but whether that vault was ever built it is now impossible to say. -The south aisle is the only portion of the edifice which retains its -vaulting (see Fig. 487). This is of a very simple character, consisting -of transverse ribs and diagonal ribs. The vaulting of the north aisle -has apparently been similar. - -[Illustration: FIG. 490.--Holyrood Abbey. - -Cap in Cloister.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 491.--Holyrood Abbey. Cap in cloister.] - -The main arcade of the nave (Fig. 492) has consisted of eight bays. -Those of the south side still stand, but on the north side only two -shattered piers survive. The piers are of the simplest form of clustered -columns, each containing a three-quarter round shaft on the four -cardinal angles, with two nook shafts between. The shafts are all -crowned with richly foliaged caps, having rounded abaci. The arch -mouldings consist of rounds and hollows, all deeply marked. From the cap -of the main pier springs a triple vaulting shaft, which runs up through -the triforium and receives the springing of the vaulting ribs on plain -bell-caps some feet below the string course under the clerestory. The -triforium is divided into two arches in each bay by a single central -shaft, springing from a corbel over the apex of each arch of the main -arcade, and running up to the string course beneath the clerestory. -This would appear to indicate that the vaulting was sex-partite, which -view is confirmed by the direction in which the surviving portions of -the groins point. - -[Illustration: FIG. 492.--Holyrood Abbey. Interior of West End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 493.--Holyrood Abbey. View from South-East.] - -Each arch of the triforium (see Fig. 492) is acutely pointed, and -contains two smaller acutely pointed arches within it, each of which has -an inner trefoiled arch. These arches all spring from single round -shafts, with plain round caps arranged to receive them. The tympanum of -the large arch is pierced with a quatrefoil or trefoil. All the -mouldings are of a bold first pointed character. The triforium, no -doubt, contained the usual passage in the thickness of the wall, which -would tend to weaken the structure. To counteract that tendency, as may -be seen from the south (Fig. 493), strong saving arches have been -introduced to carry the chief pressure across from main pier to main -pier. A similar strengthening arch exists in the outer wall of the -triforium gallery at Amiens Cathedral. - -The west end of the edifice has contained the finest work of the -building. The west wall, with its splendid doorway between the two -western towers (Fig. 494), must have presented as bold and ornate a -piece of architecture as was to be found in Scotland. - -[Illustration: FIG. 494.--Holyrood Abbey. North-West Tower and West -End.] - -The west front is now greatly shorn of its glory, but the portions which -remain only tend to increase the regret for what is gone. As already -mentioned, the south-west tower was removed to allow of the palace being -erected, and even the western doorway is encroached on by - -[Illustration: FIG. 495.--Holyrood Abbey. West Doorway.] - -the palace wall. A portion of the south-west tower is still visible in -the interior, and contains a doorway. The upper part of the west end -(Figs. 492 and 494) was reconstructed by Charles I. in 1633. It -contains two nondescript windows of seventeenth century Gothic, with an -inscription between them, which events have not confirmed, viz.:--“He -shall build ane House for my name and I will stablish the Throne of his -kingdom for ever. Basilicam hanc Carolus Rex Optimus instavravit 1633.” -The tympanum of the doorway has also been altered at this time, and an -oaken lintel introduced, containing a shield, with the initials of -Charles I. - -The western doorway (see Fig. 495) has been a beautiful specimen of -first pointed work. The jambs contained on each side free shafts, -alternating larger and smaller. The caps were beautifully carved with -foliage, and surmounted with rounded abaci. They had also a central -band. The arch orders were very richly carved with running foliage of -different designs, separated by plain mouldings and dog-tooth -enrichments. The tympanum contained a series of small arches and shafts, -resting on a lintel carved with angels’ heads (Fig. 496). The interior -of the doorway (see Fig. 492) was also unusually rich, having shafts in -the jambs, with carved caps and large dog-tooth enrichment in the label. - -[Illustration: FIG. 496.--Holyrood Abbey. Carving on Lintel of West -Doorway.] - -The north-west tower (see Fig. 494) is about 24 feet square externally. -The west side is ornamented with two tiers of arcades. The lower arcade -(Fig. 497) contains five pointed arches, with a trefoiled arch within -each. These rest on triple shafts, with carved caps and rounded abaci. -Over each shaft and between the arches there is a circle containing a -boldly carved Norman head. This feature is unique, and its effect is -fine. The upper arcade (Fig. 498) consists of three larger arches, each -containing two smaller arches, and all resting on shafts with carved and -rounded caps. The shields in the larger arches are pierced with bold -quatrefoils. Two circles occur in the spandrils over the arches, but -they do not now contain heads. - -The same design is continued round the south side of the tower and along -the west wall of the nave as far as the main doorway, but the north and -east sides of the tower are plain. Above the two arcades the tower -contains a large two-light window (see Fig. 494) on the north, east, and -west sides. The jambs are lofty, and each contains two round shafts (see -Fig. 498), with splays between, ornamented with plain balls similar to -those of - -[Illustration: FIG. 497.--Holyrood Abbey. Lower Arcade of North-West -Tower.] - -the windows in the north wall. The caps are carved and have square -abaci. The large outer arch of each window is of square section and -perfectly plain, having only a small chamfer on the edge, and a label -moulding. Each window is divided into two openings by a single central -shaft, having a carved cap and broad square abacus, on which rest the -two plain pointed arches of the inner openings. The shield above is -pierced - -[Illustration: FIG. 498.--Holyrood Abbey. Upper Part of Tower.] - -with a bold quatrefoil. The jambs and central shaft have a moulded band -in the middle of their height, and the windows are built up solid to -that level, one of the mouldings of the band being carried across as a -cornice; but this is probably a late insertion. On each external angle -of the tower a large nook shaft is carried up, and finished with a cap -on top and base at bottom. - -As above mentioned, the two western piers of the crossing (see Fig. 493) -are still standing. They consist of shafts similar to those of the main -piers of the nave, but considerably larger, and are carried up to the -same height as the vaulting shafts of the nave, where they have similar -caps and a bold pointed arch thrown across the nave. Within this arch -there has been erected, in modern times, a large traceried window. The -spaces below the window and across the side aisles have been built up -with fragments of the demolished structure, and a window is thus formed -at the east end of each aisle. - -During the fifteenth century the church has evidently undergone a -thorough repair. It is thought that this was undertaken by Abbot -Crawford, who presided over the abbey from about 1460 to 1483. The work -executed at this time consisted of the addition of seven buttresses on -the north side and several buttresses on the south side of the aisles. -Those on the north side (see Fig. 486) are large, and may either enclose -the old buttresses, or have been substituted for them. They have a -set-off near the centre, above which each contains an elaborately -ornamented and canopied niche. Beneath and above the niche there are -carved panels which have contained angels and shields, with coats of -arms. The arms of Abbot Crawford are said to have been carved on the -panels, but they are now too much decayed to be distinguishable. - -Above the upper panels the buttresses are continued with several -set-offs, and finished with a small square pinnacle. The pinnacles have -been crocheted and terminated with a carved finial, but they are now -greatly wasted away. There were, doubtless, flying arches from the above -buttresses to the clerestory (see their springing in Fig. 484), but they -must have fallen with the roof. - -A somewhat elaborate north doorway (see Fig. 486) has been introduced, -in a style similar to that of the buttresses, in the second bay from the -west tower. The arch is semicircular, and has an ogee canopy. There are -small niches above the arch on each side which contained statues, now -demolished. This doorway was probably constructed by Abbot Crawford at -the same date as the buttresses. - -A series of buttresses was also erected about the same time on the south -side of the fabric. It is believed, however, that these buttresses are -partly old, or are on old foundations. In order not to interfere with -the cloister walk, which ran along next the south wall, and where it -would have been inconvenient to have any projections, the buttresses -were carried in the form of flying arches over the top of the cloister -roof. At the clerestory level (see Fig. 493) flying arches, similar to -those on the north side, rested against the upper portions of buttresses -and pinnacles introduced between the windows. On the outside of the -cloister walk the flying arch abutted upon oblong masses of masonry, -which, probably, at one time were finished with pinnacles, but these no -longer exist. Fig. 499 shows the lower part of the eastmost of these -buttresses, from which it is evident that the outer enclosure of the -cloister walk was connected with them, and extended as an open arcade -between them. - -[Illustration: FIG. 499.--Holyrood Abbey. Buttress in Cloister, showing -Arcade.] - -Abbot Crawford was succeeded by Robert Bellenden, who presented the -abbey with many costly gifts. Amongst these were the bells, a great -brass font, and a chalice of gold. He further completed the restoration -of the fabric begun by Abbot Crawford by covering the roof with lead. -This took place before 1528. - -In 1539 the office of commendator was bestowed on Robert, natural son of -James V., while still an infant. - -The “great brass font” was carried off by Sir Richard Lee, an officer of -Hertford’s army, in 1544, and taken to St. Alban’s Abbey. It was -afterwards sold for old metal. - -The brass lectern of the abbey seems also to have fallen into Sir -Richard Lee’s hands, and was by him presented to the parish church of -St. Stephen’s, at St. Alban’s, where it still stands. It is a handsome -lectern of the usual form, having an eagle with outstretched wings to -receive the volume. It contains a shield with a lion rampant and a -crozier, with the inscription, “Georgius Crichton, Episcopus, -Dunkeldensis.”[34] Before becoming bishop, Crichton was Abbot of -Holyrood, 1515-24. - - -KILWINNING ABBEY, AYRSHIRE. - -Of this once important abbey only a few fragments now survive. The -monastery occupied extensive grounds on the banks of the river Garnock, -situated a few miles from the sea in the northern division of Ayrshire -known as Cuninghame. The ruins of the south transept of the church may -still be seen from the Kilwinning Railway Station towering above the -houses of the town. - -The site seems to have been occupied in the eighth century by an Irish -monk called St. Winnan, who is believed to be the same as St. Finnan of -Moville. On the spot sanctified by his cell, a monastery was founded in -the twelfth century by Richard or Hugh Moville, said by Pont[35] to have -been a knight who fled from England in consequence of his connection -with the murder of Becket. He was welcomed by the King of Scotland, who -created him Great Constable of the Kingdom, and presented him with the -lordships of Cuninghame, Largs, and Lauderdale. But the dates are -difficult to reconcile. It seems, however, that towards the end of the -twelfth century a colony of Tyronensian Benedictines was imported into -Kilwinning from Kelso Abbey, and, as usually happened at that period, -was speedily endowed with lands and became wealthy. To judge from the -style of the surviving architecture, the church must have been erected -early in the thirteenth century. The south entrance doorway from the -cloisters to the nave (Fig. 500), although pointed, contains some -lingering Norman enrichments, while the other principal remains indicate -the work of the thirteenth century. The history of the monastery is -somewhat obscure. The chartulary has been lost, but the names of a -number of the abbots are preserved.[36] - -[Illustration: FIG. 500.--Kilwinning Abbey. Doorway from Cloisters to -Nave.] - -In the _Collections of the Archæological Association of Ayr and Wigton_ -(1878) are printed a number of documents showing agreements between the -monks of Kilwinning and others regarding churches and benefices. Amongst -other papers there are notices of a charter by Robert I., granting to -the monks fishings in Leven and Clyde; a petition by David II., showing -that in consequence of wars and inroads the abbot and convent were -reduced to a state of want and poverty, and granting them aid; several -letters by Pope John XXII., early in the fourteenth century, confirming -grants of different churches and patronages; confirmations by Robert II. -and Robert III. of prior benefactions and new gifts; grants by James -III. and confirmation by James IV. of certain royal grants formerly made -to the abbey. An instrument narrates how, in 1512, the precincts of the -abbey were invaded by the Earls of Glencairn and Angus on behalf of a -rival abbot, thus showing that the monastery began to suffer from the -turbulence of that period. Towards the middle of the sixteenth century -the abbacy passed into the hands of commendators who, “for the utility -and advantage of the said monastery,” as it was expressed, but really in -order to secure as much as possible of the spoil, granted charters of -the monastic lands to their lay friends and relations. Thus, in 1552, -there is a confirmation by Queen Mary of a charter granted by Gavin, -commendator of the abbey, in favour of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, whereby -“on the narrative of the usefulness and necessity to the said monastery -of a prudent and legal justiciar, chamberlain, and bailie for the -administration of justice to the tenants and inhabitants of the lands of -the said monastery, and for their lawful defence against any that -attempted to trouble them,” and also remembering the good services of -the Earl and his predecessors “in the safeguard and defence of the -rights and liberties of the said monastery, and especially in opposing -by force and resisting malignant and heretical men in these times -attempting every year to invade their monastery lands and possessions -and to rob their revenues,” the feu right of the office of justiciary, -chamberlainry, and bailiacy of certain of the lands of the monastery is -granted to the said Earl, together with a salary of £40 Scots. Further -charters are also granted to different parties in consideration of sums -paid by them, said to be for the repair and restoration of the monastic -buildings, which were ruinous and decayed. - -In 1565 the abbacy was set apart, along with Paisley, Kelso, Jedburgh, -and Newbattle, for the royal charges. By a charter under the Great Seal -in 1603-4, the whole lands and possessions of the monastery were raised -into a free temporal lordship in favour of Hugh, fifth Earl of -Eglintoun. - -The office of commendator appears to have survived, and in 1606, after -the restoration of Episcopacy, retained the privileges attached to the -order, and we find the bishops (who were the commendators) taking their -seats in Parliament as formerly. This continued till 1638, when -presbytery prevailed.[37] - -The buildings of the abbey appear to have been destroyed shortly after -the Reformation. According to Knox the Earl of Arran, together with the -Earls of Glencairn and Argyle and the Protestants of the west, cast down -Fail, Kilwinning, and part of Crosraguel Abbeys, and, as stated by Pont, -the work of destruction was completed in 1591. Part of Kilwinning Abbey, -however, was repaired and fitted up as a Presbyterian place of worship. -This was taken down in 1775, and the present very plain parish church -was erected on the site of the choir. Shortly after this time (1789) the -building was visited by Captain Grose, who mentions that the tower or -steeple was then being repaired by the Earl of Eglinton. - -The Plan (Fig. 501) shows what parts of the monastic edifices can now be -seen above ground. These consist of the south wall and gable of the -south transept, and one pier with respond and arch between the south -transept and its east aisle; the handsome door (see Fig. 500) which led -from the nave into the cloisters; the entrance to the chapter house from -the cloisters; a long ancient wall which formed the wall of the south -aisle of the nave; and some portions of the west end of the nave and the -south-western tower. - -In the architectural notes which accompany an account of the abbey in -the publication of the _Archæological Association of Ayr and -Wigton_,[38] Mr. Galloway gives an account of the result of certain -diggings and explorations carried out by him. - -From these it was ascertained that traces of the outline of the rest of -the church could be distinguished, as shown on the Plan. It was thus -found that “in its original state Kilwinning was a cross church, 225 -feet in extreme length internally, 64 to 65 feet in breadth at the nave, -and 98 feet from north to south of the transepts. The nave had north and -south aisles throughout its entire length, the transepts had eastern -aisles only, and there was a small chancel about 30 feet in breadth, -without aisles.” The church was terminated at the west end with two -square towers, which projected slightly beyond the walls of the nave. -The mode of construction of these towers formed a rather exceptional -feature in Scottish church architecture. The towers were not carried -down with solid walls to the foundation according to a usual plan (as at -Elgin, Aberdeen, &c.), but rested on two sides on arches which opened -into the nave and aisles, and thus formed a continuation of the aisles -of the nave. Of these arches only that which opened into the south aisle -remains, together with the pier and respond which supported it. The arch -(Fig. 502) is acutely pointed and the springing is high, thus giving it -a kind of horse shoe shape. The foundations of some other parts of the -south - -[Illustration: FIG. 501.--Kilwinning Abbey. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 502.--Kilwinning Abbey. West End: Exterior.] - -tower were, by excavation, ascertained to exist. The mouldings and caps -of the existing piers and arch all belong to the first pointed period, -but from having been long exposed to the weather, they are considerably -decayed. The mouldings on the west angle of the pier are carried up to a -great height without any caps (see Fig. 502). The caps would, doubtless, -be placed at a higher point than the shafts now reach to. This -indicates that the arches of the towers on the side next the central -aisle of the nave were very high, probably reaching to the level of the -clerestory arch, and thus effectually including the space of the towers -in the nave. This arrangement of the tower arches next the nave is quite -unique, and would give the appearance of a western transept at the -entrance to the church. - -[Illustration: FIG. 503.--Kilwinning Abbey. West End: Interior.] - -The north-west tower has entirely disappeared, but its position has been -ascertained to have corresponded with that of the south tower. Above the -existing arch from the tower into the south aisle, and on the east side -of it, a small portion of an arch of the triforium may still be observed -(Fig. 503). A small shaft with cap and a portion of the arch yet remain. -In Grose’s view some fragments of the clerestory are also shown, but -they no longer exist. To the north of the south tower pier a strong -wall, 6 feet in thickness, has been erected across what was originally -part of the nave. This, Mr. Galloway thinks, was probably built as a -reparation of the fourteenth century, the structure having probably -suffered injury during the wars of independence. Whether the wall was -erected at that time or not, there can be little doubt that it was -constructed after the demolition of the original west front and tower, -as a substitute for the former. The wall is built across the church -between the east faces of the two towers, thus leaving the high arches -of the towers, if they then existed, outside the edifice. It seems -probable, however, that the south tower had by that time been partially -demolished, and its ruins have remained ever afterwards exposed to the -weather. Hence the extremely weather worn appearance the stones now -present. The north tower, we know, remained complete till this century. -It is shown by Grose, and an account exists of its being struck by -lightning in 1805, and of its fall five years thereafter. A new tower -has, in recent times, been erected on the site of the old north tower. - -This renewed west wall has a plain pointed doorway and a lofty double -window (see Figs. 502 and 503), with a simple mullion and transome of -rather indefinite design. The doorway is extremely plain and small, -being only about 3 feet in width, and having a double splay on the jambs -and arch. - -The nave seems to have consisted of seven bays in addition to the -towers, and was of unusual width. A considerable portion of the south -wall of the south aisle survives, and still retains the corbels which -carried the vault of the south aisle. This wall, no doubt, formed the -north side of the cloister walk, and contained the fine doorway from the -cloister to the nave, shown in Fig. 500. Some traces of late Norman work -are, as already noticed, observable here. The arch is pointed, and -contains four orders of mouldings. The label is enriched with the -dog-tooth, while the other ornaments, as well as the details of the caps -and bases, are of a somewhat Norman character. The design of this -doorway is thus in the transition style, while the remainder of the -building is all of early pointed work. The undercut cross bars, which -formed a chevron enrichment rising above a roll, have all been knocked -off, only the stumps being left. One of the caps contains traces of two -figures, and the ornamentation of the bases is peculiar (see enlarged -sketches in Fig. 500). Two plain round headed doorways can be traced in -the south wall of the nave, near its west end. They doubtless led from -the nave into the cloister. - -Modern buildings now occupy the site of the cloisters, and the old -cloister wall is incorporated with them. One of these houses bears the -date of 15--, and comprises some of the plain vaulted structures which -appear to have formerly been part of the abbey buildings. - -The south wall of the south transept, with its gable (Fig. 504), is, -fortunately, fairly well preserved, and forms a lofty and prominent -object in the landscape, rising to a height of about 90 feet. Its triple -lancets, with their plain chamfers on the outside, and bold mouldings in -the interior (Fig. 505), and circular light above, are characteristic of -thirteenth century work. The mouldings and dog-tooth enrichments of the -arch of the eastern aisle (see Fig. 505) are indications of the same -period. Similar mouldings and ornaments have been carried up into the -triforium, and remains of a circular cusped opening are visible in the -east wall above. One arch of the arcade of the east aisle, with one pier -and respond, still survive. All the work connected with them is of fine -first pointed design. A doorway in the south-west angle of the transept -led to the stair to the upper parts of the structure, and, doubtless, -also to the dormitory over the chapter house, &c. - -From Mr. Galloway’s explorations it was discovered that the foundations -of the north wall of the north transept still exist, thus enabling the -dimensions of the church to be determined. Both transepts had, as was -very usual, only an eastern aisle. - -To the south of the south transept some portions of the slype or passage -from the cloisters to the eastern side of the monastery, and parts of -the chapter house, yet remain. The slype has a plain semicircular arched -doorway (see Fig. 507) next the cloister, and has had a stone bench or -seat running along each side. The passage has been arched with a cradle -vault in ashlar, of which a small portion still survives. The chapter -house is in ruins, but the west wall (Fig. 506), which contains the -semicircular entrance from the cloister and two semicircular windows, -one on each side of the entrance, is still preserved. The windows were -divided into two openings by a mullion and two plain arches. The doorway -and double windows have numerous mouldings, and the doorway is enriched -also on the inside (Fig. 507.) The mouldings are bold, and the same -mouldings are repeated in the jambs and arches. The caps are simple (see -section in Fig. 506), but they are not adjusted to the mouldings of the -jambs, having a plain soffit, against which the shafts and mouldings of -the jambs butt. These are all indications of somewhat late design. As -was usually the case, the doorway and side windows of the chapter house -were left open; that is, without a door to close the doorway or glass in -the windows, so that all that passed in the chapter house might be seen -and heard from the cloister. The chapter house has been of quadrangular -form, 19 feet in width by 38 feet 4 inches in length. Only the entrance -front remains. - -[Illustration: FIG. 504.--Kilwinning Abbey. South End of South Transept: -Exterior.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 505.--Kilwinning Abbey. South End of South Transept: -Interior.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 506.--Kilwinning Abbey. Entrance to Chapter House.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 507.--Kilwinning Abbey. Chapter House: Interior.] - -Of the choir the outline only could be traced during the excavations. -The eastern angles terminated with massive buttresses. The extreme -external width over the bases was only 42 feet 6 inches, thus leaving a -choir not more than 30 feet in width internally. From the massive -foundations discovered at the intersection of the nave and transepts, it -is surmised that there may probably have been a central tower as well as -the two western towers. - - -DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL,[39] PERTHSHIRE. - -The dioceses of Dunblane and Brechin were founded towards the close of -the reign of David I. from the remains of the old Pictish bishopric of -Abernethy, after numerous portions had been abstracted by St. -Andrews.[40] - -The town of Dunblane stands on the left bank of the Allan Water about -four miles north of Stirling. The old town is small and consists of a -single narrow street leading from the bridge over the Allan up to the -platform on which the cathedral stands surrounded by its ancient -churchyard. Indications of the age of many of the houses may be observed -in the coats of arms inserted in their walls. - -It is believed that St. Blane, in the seventh century, here founded a -Columban establishment, which is said to have been an offshoot from -Kingarth in Bute.[41] The bishopric was re-established by King David I. -in 1150. The ancient square tower of the cathedral which still survives -is a relic of the structure erected in the twelfth century. Nothing is -known of the cathedral from that time till 1233, when Clement was -appointed to the see. Finding everything connected with the bishopric in -a neglected condition, he repaired to Rome and laid the case before the -Pope, pointing out that the Columban monastery had fallen into lay -hands, that the church was roofless and without a pastor, and that -divine service was only occasionally performed. He succeeded in his -appeal, and, in 1238, the Bishops of Glasgow and Dunkeld were appointed -to settle matters between the Bishop of Dunblane and the Earl of -Monteith who had raised certain claims. Clement died in 1258, after -having re-established the bishopric, and, it is believed, partly, if not -entirely, rebuilt the cathedral. - -To judge from the style of the architecture, it is probably the case -that the structure was at least begun by him, though the style indicates -that it was not completed before the end of the thirteenth century. - -This cathedral is one of our noblest structures, and situated as it is -on the high east bank of the Allan, which here swells out into a broad - -[Illustration: FIG. 508. Dunblane Cathedral. View from South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 509.--Dunblane Cathedral. Plan.] - -expanse, the view of the edifice, as seen from the south-west (Fig. -508), with its lofty front and ancient tower rising above the wooded -bank of the stream, is particularly charming. - -The structure (Fig. 509) consists of a nave of eight bays, with north -and south aisles, an aisleless choir of six bays, an northern aisle -unconnected with the choir, except by a doorway, and the twelfth century -tower attached to the south aisle of the nave. - -The tower is 22 feet 6 inches square, with walls about 5 feet in -thickness. It is awkwardly placed in connection with the church, the -walls not being parallel to those of the nave, while the tower projects -into the south aisle from 6 feet to 7 feet 6 inches. A high window in -the east wall of the ground floor of the tower is, in consequence, built -up by the wall of the aisle. The ground floor has a pointed ribbed -barrel vault, and a wheel stair in the south-west angle leads to the -top. The doorway of the tower is in the north wall, and now enters from -the south aisle of the nave (Fig. 510); but, so far as can be -ascertained, the doorway appears to have been originally an external -one. The sill is about 3 feet above the existing level of the floor of -the nave. It has a nook shaft on each side, with the usual Norman cap -and base, and a semicircular arch head. There is no appearance of any -building having originally been joined to, or abutted against, the -tower, which would therefore seem to have stood detached. It would thus -be to a certain extent in accordance with the traditional design, being -detached like the Irish towers, though square on plan, not round like -them. It also resembled the Irish towers in having the doorway raised -some feet above the ground. As Dunblane was several times pillaged and -destroyed by the Norsemen, the tower may have been intended, as the -ancient round towers were, to serve as a place of defence against such -inroads, as well as for a belfry. - -The tower (Fig. 511) is six stories in height. The lower four of these -stories form part of the original structure, and have small narrow -apertures, except the fourth story, which was probably the original top -story or belfry, and has a two-light window on each side. These consist -of an opening with plain jambs and round arched head, divided into two -lights by a central shaft having Norman cap and base and two small plain -round arched heads within the outer arch. The four lower stories of the -tower are all built with red freestone, the fifth story is of yellow -freestone, the sixth or top story of a grey freestone, and the tower is -finished with a parapet of red freestone. The two highest stories are -evidently of a late date. The top story contains a large pointed window -on each side with a central mullion. The form of these windows is -inelegant, and they are probably of sixteenth century date. The parapet, -with its angle bartisans resembling those of the castles of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, but with almost no projection, is -apparently still later than the belfry story. On the parapet are the -arms of Bishop Chisholm, about 1500. The slated - -[Illustration: FIG. 510.--Dunblane Cathedral. South Side of Nave and -Lower Story of Tower.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 511.--Dunblane Cathedral. Tower from South-East and -Part of Choir.] - -wooden roof is comparatively modern, but is on the lines of the one -which preceded it. - -Judging from the style of the architecture the next oldest part of the -fabric after the tower is the north aisle of the choir (generally called -the lady chapel). The work here (Fig. 512) is all of a rather early -first pointed style. The buttresses are plain with simple set offs, and -the windows consist of two or three small pointed lights enclosed within -one larger arch. The latter are low segmental pointed arches, and the -haunches are raised so as to allow the small side lights to be carried -as high as possible. This building is vaulted (Fig. 513) with pointed -groins of first pointed section, which spring from semi-octagonal shafts -with early caps, and the bosses at the intersection are carved with -first pointed foliage. Above the vault there is an upper story with -small two-light windows. It is approached by a wheel stair in the -thickness of the west wall, entered both from the lady chapel and the -nave aisle. Such upper stories over the aisles of early churches are not -uncommon, as at Durham, Ely, St. Albans, Dunfermline, &c., but they -generally form an upper gallery and admit light to the centre. Here the -upper windows admit no light to the choir, the wall of the latter being -solid. Possibly this upper chamber may have been used for a scriptorium -or similar purpose. Upper stories were frequently employed for writing -rooms, as at Arbuthnot and Inchcolm, the room over the chapter house of -the latter being the place where Bower wrote his history. - -It is remarkable that this north aisle of the choir, or lady chapel, -should be entirely separated from the choir by a solid wall in which -there never was any opening into the aisle except the small doorway near -the east end, which is of first pointed date.[42] This doorway, with its -details, is shown in Fig. 514. Whether this aisle was the first part of -the structure erected by Bishop Clement in order to be used as a -temporary church while the remainder of the cathedral was building, or -whether the choir built by him was afterwards rebuilt, the north aisle -being left unchanged, it is now impossible to say. That the choir is of -later date than the aisle there can scarcely be any doubt; but it does -not appear to be of much later date. The same base mouldings are carried -round the whole building, and the design of the east end of the choir, -with its large central and two narrow side windows (see Fig. 512) and -plain pinnacles, shows some features of first pointed character; but -both the large window of the east end and those of the south side (see -Fig. 511) point to a time about the beginning of the decorated period. -The windows of the clerestory on the north side above the roof of the -north aisle, with their small buttresses, are, however, of a similar -early character to those of the north aisle. Whatever may have been the -object in building - -[Illustration: FIG. 512.--Dunblane Cathedral. Choir from North-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 513.--Dunblane Cathedral. Lady Chapel.] - -a solid wall between the choir and the north aisle, it has evidently -been intended, from the size of the east windows and also of those on -the south side, to provide sufficient light by them to make up for the -want of light from the north. The kind of tracery which filled these -windows cannot now be ascertained, but it may have been of the same -character as that of the windows of the west end. The tracery, which -existed till recently in the choir, was clearly a late restoration. The -pinnacles on the south buttresses and the upper part of the choir wall -are also of very late date. These have apparently been restored by -Bishop Chisholm, whose crest they bear, about the year 1500. It will be -observed that the north aisle of the choir stops short by one bay of the -length of the choir, so as to allow the presbytery to be lighted, as is -usual, by windows on three sides. The choir is 81 feet in length by 28 -feet in width within the walls. - -[Illustration: FIG. 514.--Dunblane Cathedral. - -Door from Choir to Lady Chapel. Details.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 515.--Dunblane Cathedral. Plan of Clerestory -Window.] - -We now come to the most beautiful part of the structure, viz., the nave. -It measures internally 129 feet in length by 57 feet in width (including -the aisles), and is divided into eight bays. The four eastmost bays and -the westmost bay are 10 feet in width between the piers, while the three -bays next the westmost bay are 12 feet between the piers. A similar -difference is observable in the upper part of the structure, which -consists of the clerestory, there being no triforium (Fig. 516). The -clerestory is constructed with an outer and an inner wall (Fig. 515), -having a passage between them in the centre. In the outer wall are the -windows, which have two lights formed by a central mullion, with plain -splays on the jambs and pointed arch (Fig. 517). The arch head is filled -with a form of tracery consisting of a quatrefoil cut in a plain -circular panel, being thus an intermediate example between the -perforated panel of early first pointed work and the bar tracery of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 516.--Dunblane Cathedral. Elevation of Bay of -Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 517.--Dunblane Cathedral. West End from South-West.] - -decorated period. On the inner side of the clerestory gallery an arcade -(see Fig. 515) is more elaborately carried out. Each bay contains two -arches forming a continuous arcade, resting on clustered shafts with -rounded caps and bases of first pointed style. The arch mouldings are - -[Illustration: FIG. 518.--Dunblane Cathedral. Interior of North-West -Angle of Nave.] - -also of fine bold first pointed form. Of this arcade, four and a-half -bays on the north side and four bays on the south side next the east end -have the arcade, without central shaft or tracery. The remainder of the -clerestory arches on both sides have the opening divided by a central -shaft carrying two pointed arches, and the arch head is filled with a -quatrefoil cut out of a circular shield like those above described. The -western bay (Fig. 518) is exceptional, having one arch with and one -without tracery on each side of the nave, the openings without tracery -being the east one on the south side and the west one on the north side. -It may also be pointed out that the four east bays have ashlar work in -the spandrils of the main arches, while the spandrils of the four west -bays are filled in with rubble work. - -The main piers and arches are all of nearly the same design (Fig. 519). -They are set diagonally to the nave, and have four half shafts at the -cardinal angles and one intermediate shaft and two square projections -between on each side. In the south piers the square angle is cut off -these projections, otherwise the plan of the piers is the same. They -have all rounded first pointed caps, composed of mouldings over a bell, -and the bases are of usual first pointed forms (see Fig. 516). - -[Illustration: FIG. 519.--Dunblane Cathedral. Half-Plan of Nave Piers.] - -The west end (Fig. 520) is one of the finest parts of the cathedral. On -the ground floor it contains the western doorway (Fig. 521), deeply -recessed with a series of shafts and arch mouldings of line first -pointed design, flanked by an acutely pointed blind arch on each side -with trefoiled head within it. This ground story is surmounted by three -lofty pointed windows (see Fig. 520), all of equal height, and each -divided into two lights by a central mullion, and having the arch head -filled in the central window with a cinquefoil, and in the side windows -with a quatrefoil. The windows are all enclosed with a label moulding, -having carved terminals. The jambs and arches have plain triple splays -(Fig. 522), and the openings in the arch heads are cut out of plain -circular shields like the windows of the clerestory. A passage like that -of the clerestory runs round in the west wall, and has an inner arcade -of clustered shafts, with arch mouldings and tracery similar to those of -the clerestory. In the interior arcade the three arch heads are all -filled with cinquefoils cut through what is almost a plain shield (Fig. -523). The gable is filled with an elegant vesica piscis (Fig. 524), to -which Ruskin draws attention in his _Edinburgh Lectures_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 520.--Dunblane Cathedral. West End.] - -The edifice has not been intended to be vaulted. The buttresses of the -nave are light (see Fig. 517), and they are finished with plain - -[Illustration: FIG. 521.--Dunblane Cathedral. West Doorway.] - -gablets. The cornice is supported on a corbel table of pure first -pointed design. There is no transept, but an attempt has been made to -supply its place by the insertion of large traceried windows in the -first bay of the nave next the choir (see Fig. 508). The east window of -the south aisle of the nave (see Fig. 511) has the shield over the -central mullion carved with a quatrefoil sinking on the inside, but it -is not pierced through to the outside, which is left quite plain. The -aisles are of very plain design, the windows being somewhat similar to -those of the lady chapel, and the buttresses being very plain. Two -windows at the west end of the north aisle (Fig. 525) are of peculiar -form, having a flat segmental arch and being divided by two mullions. -These appear to be a comparatively late alteration. There has been a -north porch (see Fig. 525) to the nave, of which only the ruined -doorway, with first pointed shafts and arch mouldings, now remains. -There is also a plain south doorway in the nave aisle (see Fig. 511). - -[Illustration: FIG. 522.--Dunblane Cathedral. Plan of West Window.] - -The north buttress of the west end has been made large so as to contain -a wheel stair to the upper galleries (see Plan) of the edifice (see Fig. -517), and in the buttress on the south side of the west doorway a small -vaulted chamber has been formed, in which some interesting relics of -Celtic times have been preserved, amongst others a stone carved with a -Celtic cross, ornamented with a figure like a Greek fret. - -As already mentioned, the greater part of the structure is of first -pointed date. The lady chapel may be the oldest part (after the tower), -and next to it is the east portion of the nave. The western half of the -nave seems to have followed soon after the eastern portion, and is -carried out nearly after the same design. The transition tracery in the -arcade of the clerestory and west end is very interesting, as showing -bar tracery in the act of being formed. This could scarcely have -occurred in Scotland before the end of the thirteenth century. - -The style of the choir is further advanced than the nave, and exhibits -some transitional features between first pointed and decorated work. The -great east window and the large side windows of the choir probably -contained tracery more advanced than that of the west end, and may -probably date from the fourteenth century. The pinnacles and parapet -are, as already pointed out, of about 1500. - -[Illustration: FIG. 523.--Dunblane Cathedral. Interior of West Window.] - -By great good fortune six of the stalls of Dunblane Cathedral with their -canopies, and several others without canopies, have escaped the -destruction which has overtaken almost all the carved woodwork of our -ancient Scottish churches. Those preserved here (Fig. 526) show some -excellent carving. - -[Illustration: FIG. 524.--Dunblane Cathedral. - -Vesica in West Gable.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 525.--Dunblane Cathedral. North-West Angle of Nave.] - -These stalls contain on one of the misereres the arms of the Chisholm -family, surmounted by a mitre. Three bishops of this name presided in -succession at Dunblane. First, James, eldest son of Edmund Chisholm of -Cromlix, who was advanced to this see in 1486. In 1527, by reason of his -age, he resigned the bishopric in favour of his half-brother, William -Chisholm (second), who was consecrated the same year, and was bishop - -[Illustration: FIG. 526.--Dunblane Cathedral. Stalls.] - -till his death in 1564. Third, William Chisholm, nephew to the -preceding, who was first coadjutor to his uncle, and then his successor. -He was forfeited for non-compliance with the new measures both in Church -and - -[Illustration: FIG. 527.--Dunblane Cathedral. Details of Stalls.] - -State, sometime before the 3rd July 1573, and retired to France, where -he died in his old age a Carthusian at Grenoble. - -The first of these bishops, James, receives very favourable notice from -Bishop Spottiswoode in his _History of the Church_ (Vol. I. p. 215, -Spottiswoode Society edition). “A severe censor he was of the corrupted -manners of the clergy, and recovered many lands and possessions which -were sacrilegiously taken from the Church before his time;” and -otherwise he speaks highly of him. The same authority condemns his -successor, Bishop William, as “a wicked, vicious man, who, for the -hatred he bore to the true religion, made away all the lands of the -bishopric, and utterly spoiled the benefice.” Bishop Keith bears the -same testimony, saying that “he alienated the Episcopal patrimony of -this church to a very singular degree.” The extent to which this -alienation went will be best understood from the remark of Bishop Keith -regarding the second Bishop William, that he “dilapidated any remains of -his bishopric,” clearly implying, as his more detailed account shows, -that there was little left to squander. - -[Illustration: FIG. 528.--Dunblane Cathedral. Wood Carving.] - -In these circumstances it is not at all probable that either of the -Bishops William would spend money in the adornment of their cathedral. -There is therefore no difficulty in concluding that the stalls were -provided by Bishop James Chisholm, and that they date between the years -1486 and 1534, the year of his death. Although he resigned in 1527, he -retained to himself the administration of “the fruits of the bishopric -of Dunblane.”[43] - -The carving is very spirited, and full of grotesque figures (see details -in Fig. 527). It corresponds in style with the date of Bishop James -Chisholm, and has probably been brought from Flanders, where so much - -[Illustration: FIG. 529.--Dunblane Cathedral. Misereres of Stalls.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 530.--Dunblane Cathedral. Monument in Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 531.--Dunblane Cathedral. Monument in East Bay of -Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 532.--Dunblane Cathedral. Monument in North Aisle of -Nave.] - -carving of the kind was executed about that time. The lion (Fig. 528) is -especially good of its kind. It was taken out of the cathedral during -some of the alterations and repairs made on it about the beginning of -this century; and at the same time a considerable quantity of carved -woodwork was removed and converted into household furniture. Fig. 529 -shows some of the carvings on the lower side of the misereres of the -stalls which have no canopies. - -The cathedral contains a few ancient sculptured monuments. One of these -is in the north wall of the choir, and consists of a tomb, under a -recessed canopy, containing the effigy of a bishop (Fig. 530), said to -be Finley Dermock, who was bishop of the see in the beginning of the -fifteenth century. This bishop built the first bridge over the Allan, at -Dunblane, which still survives, although widened and improved. The head -of the crozier and the right hand which held it have been knocked off; -otherwise the effigy is in good preservation. The feet rest against an -animal, much mutilated, whose tail runs into a wreath of foliage of -first pointed character. - -Another episcopal effigy, attired in pontifical vestments and mitre, -rests in a tomb (Fig. 531) in the south wall of the eastmost bay of the -nave. This is believed to be the monument of Bishop Michael Ochiltree, -who occupied the see about the middle of the fifteenth century, and -added much to the rich ornaments of the cathedral. The tomb and effigy -are evidently of late date, and both are much decayed. - -In the north aisle of the nave are preserved two effigies (Fig. 532), -said to be those of Malise, eighth Earl of Strathearn, and his countess. -The figures are life-size, and are carved in a block of sandstone. “When -discovered in the choir, the block was above a coffin of lead, having -inscribed on it the date 1271.”[44] The figures, however, are -undoubtedly of later date. - - -INCHMAHOME PRIORY, STIRLINGSHIRE. - -The ruins of this priory are situated on a small island of about four -acres in extent in the beautiful lake of Menteith. Its retired and -peaceful position is well indicated in the name of Inchmahome, which -means the Isle of Rest. This secluded situation has to some extent saved -the buildings from demolition and the grounds from alteration; so that -this venerable priory, surrounded as it is with ancient and gigantic -walnut trees, and the remains of the gardens of the monks, has a -peaceful and impressive beauty and interest of its own. - -But although the church is fairly well preserved, the monastic buildings -have not escaped the ordinary causes of destruction so entirely as their -situation would have led one to expect. - -The adjacent island of Talla is almost entirely covered with the ruins -of the castle of the Earls of Menteith,[45] which seems to date mostly -from the seventeenth century, and in the construction of which the -materials of the suppressed priory, lying so conveniently at hand, were -no doubt largely employed. The Earl must also have found the gardens on -the island of the abbey convenient, and appropriated them as a pleasure -ground. - -[Illustration: FIG. 533.--Inchmahome Priory. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 534.--Inchmahome Priory. View from South-East.] - -The instrument authorising the establishment of the priory of Inchmahome -still exists. It is given in the name of the Pope by the Bishops of -Glasgow and Dunkeld in the year 1238, and authorises a monastery to be -built for the religious men already settled in the island. The priory -was founded and endowed by Walter Comyn, fourth Earl of Menteith, for -monks of the Augustinian order. From the style of its architecture the -church evidently belongs to the middle of the thirteenth century. Its -details, such as the lofty lancet windows, the nave piers and arches, -the western doorway, &c., bear a striking resemblance, on a small scale, -to those of the neighbouring cathedral of Dunblane. - -[Illustration: FIG. 535.--Inchmahome Priory. Sedilia.] - -The Plan (Fig. 533) shows a choir 66 feet long by 23 feet 8 inches wide -internally, without aisles, and with plain lancet windows, without -tracery (Fig. 534), those of the east end forming five lights (now built -up). The mullions are preserved, but the arched heads are gone. - -There is a good sedilia (Fig. 535) and two ambries in the south wall, -and on the north side of the choir are the ruins of what seems to have -been a sacristy built as a north aisle, with only a door from the -church, in the fashion of the north aisle of Dunblane. From the base -mouldings being carried round this aisle, it is evidently an original -part of the design, and the corbels for the wall plate show that it had -a lean-to roof like an ordinary aisle. - -[Illustration: FIG. 536.--Inchmahome Priory. North-West Angle of Nave.] - -The nave is 75 feet in length, and its width varies, being 23 feet 8 -inches at the east and 27 feet 2 inches at the west end. This difference -seems to have arisen from the south wall having been rebuilt. The nave -has a north aisle connected with it by four arches, two of the piers and -arches of which are still standing (Fig. 536). The caps, bases, and -sections of piers and arch mouldings (Fig. 537) are all good first -pointed work. The west doorway is also very fine, and is pretty well -preserved (Fig. 538). It comprises a central pointed doorway with deep -ingoing, having numerous shafts with moulded caps and bases, and a deep -series of first pointed mouldings in the arch head (Fig. 539). On each -side of the central doorway are two pointed wall arches with similar -caps and mouldings, but with only a shallow recess. The spandrils -between the arches contain trefoil and quatrefoil recesses. - -There are the remains of a tower at the north-west angle of the nave -(Fig. 540), but this has been a later addition. There seems, from the -original base course, to have been a tower of some kind here from the -first, but it has evidently been rebuilt, and divided into stories, as -if for habitation. In this operation the arches of the nave and aisle -adjoining, which were originally open, were built up with rubble, but -that has now been cleared out again. - -On the south side of the choir is situated the chapter house (see Fig. -533), 24 feet in length by 15 feet in width internally. It is vaulted -with a semicircular tunnel vault, over which there is a room in the roof -(see Fig. 534). The chapter house has a good east window, and there is -the usual stone seat all round. An outside staircase led to the upper -apartment. The cloisters and cloister garth have been situated to the -south of the nave; the corbels for the cloister roof still remain. There -is no south aisle, and there are no south windows or buttresses to the -nave along what was the cloister walk. To the south of these structures -are several remains of the monastic buildings, but much destroyed. - -The kitchen and offices at the south end (see Plan) are the best -preserved portions, having the fireplace, windows, water drain, &c., and -the kitchen is still covered with a plain round tunnel vault, over which -there was an upper floor. The refectory probably ran along the south -side of the cloister. A staircase near the kitchen led to the dormitory, -of which it would form the day access. - -[Illustration: Pier. - -Arch Mouldings. - -Cap and Base. - -FIG. 537.--Inchmahome Priory. Details of Nave.] - -There is at first sight a strange confusion amongst the conventual -buildings, owing to what turns out, on careful examination, to be a -comparatively recent erection built in the middle of them. - -The chapter house seems to have been appropriated as a mausoleum by the -Earls of Menteith and Airth, and a long avenue has been - -[Illustration: FIG. 538.--Inchmahome Priory. West Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 539.--Inchmahome Priory. Mouldings of West -Doorway.] - -constructed and enclosed between two high walls leading up to it. This -was, no doubt, erected with the materials of the demolished monastic -buildings right through the centre of what was the cloister garth. This -enclosure is said to have been erected in haste to receive the remains -of Lord Kilpont, son of the first Earl of Menteith and Airth, who was -assassinated in the camp of Montrose at Collace, in 1644, by Stewart of -Ardvoirlich; a weird Highland story, on which Scott has founded his -romance of _The Legend of Montrose_. The body was sent home to his -father, then a State prisoner in his own castle of Talla, and was buried -here. - -[Illustration: FIG. 540.--Inchmahome Priory. North-West Tower.] - -In the choir are the graves of some of the most distinguished men of the -families of Comyn, Stewart, Drummond, and Graham, with numerous -monuments, much defaced--amongst others, that of Walter Stewart, fifth -Earl of Menteith and his Countess (Figs. 541 and 542). The Earl was one -of the most historic men of his day. He was present at the battle of -Largs, in 1263; he was a witness to the marriage of the Princess -Margaret to Eric of Norway, 1281; and he was a distinguished crusader -under Louis IX. - -[Illustration: FIG. 541.--Inchmahome Priory. Monument of Fifth Earl and -Countess of Menteith. - -(Drawn from Sketch by Mr. R. B. Armstrong.)] - -In 1543 Queen Mary, as a child, found refuge here along with her mother -after the battle of Pinkie, and she stayed here for some months until a -favourable opportunity was found for sending her to France. Dr. John -Brown has pointed out that amongst other interesting and suggestive -relics in the garden may still be seen what seems to have been the young -queen’s miniature or child’s garden--a small flower plot, the boxwood -edging of which has now grown up into a thick shrubbery. - -[Illustration: FIG. 542.--Inchmahome Priory. Monument of Fifth Earl of -Menteith. - -(Drawn from Sketch by Mr. R. B. Armstrong.)] - -At the south side of the island there is a high mound, called the “Nun’s -Walk,” about which a romantic and tragic tale is told. This may, -however, have been an artificial mote or mound, raised for the purpose -of receiving an early wooden castle on its summit. There is a similar -mound close to Lincluden College, Dumfriesshire. - - -ELGIN CATHEDRAL, MORAYSHIRE. - -This once noble edifice, of which even the remaining fragments are -amongst our finest examples of mediæval architecture, stands in the -fertile plain of Moray, in the centre of the region which borders the -Moray Firth, and is remarkable for the pleasantness and salubrity of its -climate. This province was long a subject of contest between the -Scottish kings and the Mormaers of Moray. The latter were defeated by -Alexander I., and more permanently subdued by David I., who both -proceeded to carry out the ecclesiastical policy of their family by -founding in this newly-acquired land various religious establishments. - -The priory of Urquhart, of which now not a stone remains, was -established by David I., near the mouth of the Lossie, in 1125, for -Benedictines from Dunfermline; and the abbey of Kinloss, near the -Findhorn, was founded, in 1150, for Cistercians from Melrose. The -churches of Birnie, Spynie, and Kineddar also come into notice about -this period. - -The chartulary of the Bishopric of Moray goes no further back than the -year 1200, but the see of Moray is believed to have been founded by -Alexander I. about 1107, and the bishopric certainly existed in his -time.[46] The seat of the bishop, however, was not fixed for a -considerable period thereafter, being sometimes at Birnie and other -times at Spynie and Kineddar. But in 1203 application was made by -Bricius, the sixth bishop to Pope Innocent III., requesting that the -site of the cathedral should be fixed, and the Pope decided that it -should be settled at Spynie. This situation was, however, found to be -too remote, and Pope Honorius was approached for the purpose of having -the see changed to the banks of the Lossie, where an extensive and -suitable site for the cathedral had been obtained from Alexander II., -who was a great patron of Elgin. - -The introduction to the _Register of the Diocese_, p. xii., states that -the application for the transference of the see to Elgin was made by -Bishop Bricius, though the change did not take place till after his -demise. This bishop established a chapter of eight secular canons, and -gave the cathedral a constitution founded on the usage of Lincoln, which -was ascertained by a special mission to England. Bishop Bricius died in -1222, and was succeeded by Andrew de Moravia, a member of a powerful -family in the north. Under him the transference of the Episcopal See to -Elgin was effected, and the cathedral of the Holy Trinity was founded in -1224, on the site of an older church with the same dedication. The works -proceeded under Bishop Andrew’s supervision during the eighteen -remaining years of his life. - -Munificent donations were bestowed on the see by the bishop’s family, -and through his influence the number of the prebends was increased to -twenty-three. It is recorded that Master Gregory, the mason, and -Richard, the glazier, were two persons employed on the work.[47] - -The edifice was probably well advanced in the course of the thirteenth -century, when in 1270, as we are informed by Fordun, the cathedral and -the houses of the canons were destroyed by fire. Mr. Billings is of -opinion that the most of the structure now remaining was erected after -that date. It will, however, be seen that this can scarcely have been -the case. In 1390 the building suffered from another great -conflagration, caused by Alexander Stewart, son of Robert II., who bore -the title of Earl of Buchan, but was better known as the “Wolf of -Badenoch.” Having interfered with some of the cathedral lands, and -refusing reparation, he was excommunicated by the bishop, and by way of -revenge the “Wolf” descended in force from his mountain fastness and -plundered Forres and Elgin, reducing the latter town and cathedral to -ruins. - -It is evident, however, from the style of much of the work which still -remains that this catastrophe, terrible as it was, caused only a partial -destruction of the cathedral, and it is likely that the previous fire -(in 1270), above referred to, was not of so serious a character as this -one, the memory of which long lingered in the province as the most -terrible disaster ever experienced there. The aged Bishop Bur appealed -for redress to the king, and the “Wolf of Badenoch” was not only forced -to do penance, but also to contribute largely towards the expense of the -restoration of the damage he had caused.[48] - -The work of reconstruction proceeded under Bishops Spynie and Innes and -other Bishops, and probably lasted during the most of the fifteenth -century. At the election of a new bishop in 1414, after the death of -Bishop Innes, the canons agreed and made oath that the new bishop about -to be elected should bestow one-third of the revenues of the bishopric -on the rebuilding of the church until its complete restoration was -accomplished. Several parts of the work, such as portions of the west -front and the interior of the chapter house, indicate by their -architecture that they belong to the fifteenth century. Early in the -sixteenth century the central tower showed signs of weakness, and had to -be rebuilt in 1538. - -Some years before the Reformation the period of decline began. In 1535 -Patrick Hepburn, son of the first Earl of Bothwell, was made bishop. -Like many of the other Church dignitaries of that period he caused great -dilapidation of the ecclesiastical possessions, and almost all the -charters of alienation of the cathedral lands were granted by him.[49] -In 1568 the exigencies of the Regent Moray compelled the Privy Council -to order the removal of the lead from the roofs of the cathedrals of -Aberdeen and Elgin that money might be provided for the soldiers, but -the ship which was conveying the lead to Holland for sale sank, and the -whole was lost. The roofs were thus left unprotected, and in a great -storm which occurred in 1637 the rafters were blown down. - -The destruction of the interior soon followed, and was hastened by the -action of the General Assembly, which, in 1640, empowered Gilbert Ross, -minister of Elgin, and others to break down the timber screen between -the nave and choir. Spalding states that the paintings on the rood -screen--the Crucifixion on the west side, illuminated with gold stars, -and the Day of Judgment on the east side--notwithstanding their exposure -for “seven score years,” were still in excellent preservation when the -demolition took place. - -Next followed the destruction of the tracery of the great west window -and other features, which is believed to have been caused by Cromwell’s -troops in 1650-60. - -By the end of the seventeenth century the double aisles of the nave seem -to have disappeared, as they are not shown in Slezer’s view (published -in 1693). But the chief catastrophe which overtook the edifice was the -fall of the central tower on Easter Sunday, 1711. It fell towards the -west, thus overwhelming in its ruin the nave and transepts, and causing -their complete destruction. The ruins thereafter became, as usual, the -quarry of the district, till, in 1807, by the exertions of Mr. King of -Elgin, a wall was built round the enclosure. In 1816 the Barons of -Exchequer took possession of the ruins, and appointed as keeper John -Shanks, who was an enthusiast in excavating and preserving any ancient -sculpture he could discover, and is said to have wheeled out over 3000 -barrows of rubbish. - -The enclosure which surrounded the precincts of the cathedral was of -considerable extent, and comprised within its bounds the houses of the -canons and the town house of the bishop. The former are now entirely -demolished and the latter is hastening to decay, a large portion having -recently fallen.[50] One gate of entrance to the precincts still -remains. - -Whether we regard the extent and completeness of the arrangement of the -buildings or the beauty of the architecture, Elgin Cathedral, when -perfect, must have held a place in the first rank of our Scottish -ecclesiastical edifices. It was complete in all departments (Fig. 543), -having a large nave with double aisles, an extended choir and -presbytery, north and south transepts, a lady chapel, and a detached -octagonal chapter house. It also possessed a great tower and spire over -the - -[Illustration: FIG. 543.--Elgin Cathedral. Plan.] - -crossing, two noble towers at the west end, and two fine turrets at the -east end. Most of the existing portions had also the advantage of being -erected during the thirteenth century, at which period Scottish -architecture was at its best. Good examples of the Scottish decorated -period are also represented, and the testimony of ancient historians to -the beauty of the internal sculpture and decoration is well supported by -the fine fragments which still survive, of which a collection is formed -in the chapter house. - -Although slightly inferior in dimensions to our larger cathedrals at St. -Andrews and Glasgow, that of Elgin is in some respects superior. The -splendid western portal is undoubtedly amongst the finest examples of -that feature in Scotland, if not in Britain, and recalls rather the -noble portals of French architecture than those of this country. - -The two grand western towers (Fig. 544) are also very notable portions -of Elgin Cathedral, and are unsurpassed by any western towers in the -kingdom. From the simple and bold lines of their design, these towers -have likewise more affinity with French than British Gothic. - -On entering the nave by the great western doorway it is apparent from -the remains of the bases of the piers, which are all that now survive of -that portion of the edifice, that the nave has consisted of a main -central compartment with two aisles on each side, thus forming five -divisions, with four rows of arcades running along the length of the -nave. These comprised six bays in the length with an additional bay in -the central compartment between the two western towers. The internal -length of the central aisle of the nave was 118 feet by 32 feet in -width, and the width of the double aisles on each side was 26 feet, thus -making the total width of the nave 84 feet. - -The nave was also entered by two large vaulted porches, one on the north -side and the other on the south side, adjoining the western towers. -These porches are now much destroyed, especially that on the north side. -The choir is of unusual length, containing from the crossing to the east -end seven bays, and extending to a total length of 211 feet. This -includes the two bays of the presbytery which, as usual in large -Scottish churches, extend eastwards beyond the aisles and are lighted -with windows on three sides. The three steps leading up to the high -altar still remain. The great eastern window of the choir (Fig. 545) is -divided into two arcaded stories with five lights in each, and the upper -story is surmounted by a large circular opening, the tracery of which, -now broken, was evidently inserted at a later time. In the side walls -there is no triforium, but the clerestory is lofty and forms a -continuation of the upper story of the east end, extending along both -sides of the choir (see Fig. 545). This upper story has separate arches -on the exterior and interior of the wall, and contains a passage between -them for access to the upper part of the building. The arcades of the -east end and clerestory are all ornamented with - -[Illustration: FIG. 544.--Elgin Cathedral. West End.] - -distinct shafts, having round moulded caps and bases and fine bold -mouldings in the arches. The hollows between the shafts and mouldings -are enriched with numerous and elegant forms of the dog-tooth ornament. - -[Illustration: FIG. 545.--Elgin Cathedral. Interior of Choir.] - -The windows are almost all lancets, but some of the side windows are -larger, and some of those in the east end have a little tracery -introduced, thus indicating a rather late date in the style. The elegant -turrets at - -[Illustration: FIG. 546.--Elgin Cathedral. East End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 547.--Elgin Cathedral. South Transept and South Side -of Choir.] - -the east end (Fig. 546) are ornamented with trefoiled arcades, and have -been finished on top with octagonal pyramidal roofs and canopied -windows. All the features of the choir seem to point to its having been -erected late in the thirteenth century, probably after the fire in 1270, -reported by Fordun. The details are all of pure first pointed form, but -from the exuberance of the enrichments the building was apparently -somewhat late in the period. - -The buttresses on the exterior of the clerestory are of small size (Fig. -547), the building having evidently not been designed for a vault, but -only intended to carry a wooden roof over the central choir. The side -aisles, however, were vaulted and groined. About the centre of the side -walls of the choir there is a projecting respond on each side (see Fig. -545), which seems to indicate that at one time it had been intended at -this point to throw an arch over the choir to separate it from the -presbytery, and the buttress at this point is of extra size; but some -change of the first design has apparently taken place, and the space -above the caps of the responds has been sloped off in a pyramidal form, -and ornamented with a series of small leaf enrichments. Whether this -change of design was adopted voluntarily, or in consequence of damages -caused by the fire above referred to, it is now impossible to say, but -the result proves how beautifully an accidental alteration could be -turned to good account in the olden time. Possibly the choir only -extended to this point before 1270. - -The aisles of the choir do not extend the full length of the choir, but -stop short, as is usual, by two bays so as to admit more light into the -presbytery. The north aisle is separated from the central choir by a -solid wall, having only one opening, through which a passage leads from -the choir across this aisle to the chapter house. Along the south side -of the choir there runs another and wider aisle (Fig. 548), which is -said to have formed the lady chapel. It was connected with the choir by -wide arched openings having first pointed piers and mouldings with round -moulded caps, and contains several ancient monuments. The tracery and -other details of this aisle (see Fig. 547) prove that it has been -considerably altered at a later date than the choir. - -Before completing the description of the choir it may be pointed out -that the north wall presents some peculiarities. It has already been -mentioned that the wall is solid, having in the lower part no openings -to the side aisle, except that leading to the chapter house. It would -appear, however, that this was not always the case, as there are traces -in the side next the aisle of a window which has been built up. The wall -is also in its lower part built with rubble, and it may be conjectured -that this wall was part of the original choir of the Church of the Holy -Trinity, which had been begun when the see of the bishop was transferred -to the site of that church. Another peculiarity is that the windows in -the triforium of the western portion are smaller than those of the rest -of the choir. Possibly the western aisle, which was cut off from the -choir by a solid wall, was used as the sacristy. - -[Illustration: FIG. 548.--Elgin Cathedral. South Aisle of Choir, or Lady -Chapel.] - -The transepts, like the nave, have been greatly destroyed, and the - -[Illustration: FIG. 549.--Elgin Cathedral. Western Doorway.] - -chapels, if any such formerly existed on the east side of the transept -(which, however, does not seem to have been the case), have now entirely -disappeared. The south wall of the south transept (see Fig. 547) is -especially interesting from its containing the oldest architecture in -the cathedral. The various features all show that it belongs to the -period of transition from Norman to first pointed, which in Scotland -occurred about the beginning of the thirteenth century. The forms of the -buttresses and the introduction of the pointed lancet windows below the -circular arches on the upper floor show that the first pointed style was -making rapid progress, while the circular arches of the upper windows -and the Norman ornaments inserted in the pointed doorway of the south -transept show some lingering remains of the earlier style. Perhaps the -transition in this northern region may have taken place at a later -period than in the south; and, to judge from the transition style here -employed, which in a more southern situation would indicate a date about -1200, this part of the structure may have been erected immediately after -the foundation of the cathedral in 1224; or the transept may have formed -part of the original Church of the Holy Trinity, which was superseded by -the cathedral. The transept would be of great size for an ordinary -church, but would accord well with the dimensions of an edifice intended -for a cathedral. - -The style of the western towers (see Fig. 544) indicates an early date, -being all of early first pointed work in every detail. The great western -portal (Fig. 549), with its surmounting gablets and side niches, is also -in the first pointed style. The nine circular shafts of the ingoing, -with their round moulded caps and bases and simple cavetto between, and -the mouldings of the deep bay of the principal arch, are of fine first -pointed character. The arch head comprises amongst the boldly cut -mouldings four rows of dog-tooth ornament, and one order formerly -enriched with a finely undercut and foliaged ornament, now almost -obliterated. This doorway is evidently in a later style than the towers, -although still belonging to the first pointed period. - -An elegant first pointed gallery (Fig. 550) likewise runs round the -interior of the west wall over the doorway. The inner portions of the -western portal, _i.e._, the two smaller arches and tympanum within the -great arch, are of later date. This is quite apparent from the nature of -the enrichments, which indicate the fifteenth century. The ornaments are -numerous and consist of imitations of natural foliage, the jambs and -arches are continuous and without caps, and the arches are surmounted by -crockets, all signs of decorated work. The vesica over the central -mullion has, doubtless, contained an image of the blessed Virgin, and on -either side is an angel kneeling and throwing the censer. - -The great west window over the portal (see Fig. 544), which was formerly -filled with tracery, is also of later date than the portal, every -feature being of a decorated character. The tracery has apparently -contained a large circle or rose form in its design, and has -corresponded in style with the tracery which latterly filled the eastern -circular light. This part of the building was probably erected in the -earlier part of - -[Illustration: FIG. 550.--Elgin Cathedral. Interior of West End.] - -the fifteenth century. The arms of Dunbar and the royal arms are -observable on shields above the arch, and the former may stand for -Bishop Columba Dunbar, under whom it may have been erected (1422-35). -During the fifteenth century great additions and alterations were, -doubtless, carried out in consequence of the restoration required after -the destruction caused by the “Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390. These extended -chiefly to the nave and chapter house, which were both to a large extent -rebuilt. A contribution towards this restoration appears to have been -made by Robert III. in 1390, in the form of an annuity during the king’s -pleasure; and in 1408 the revenues of the see, while vacant, were -granted to the work.[51] - -The nave appears, from the plan of the main piers (see Fig. 543) and the -style of the responds against the west towers (see Fig. 550), to have -been originally of first pointed work, and to have corresponded with the -style of the choir, having no triforium, but a lofty clerestory with -passage in the wall similar to that of the choir. Slezer’s view, taken -before the destruction of the tower and nave in 1711, shows the -clerestory of the nave complete, as above described. The arches of the -windows are drawn as if circular, but this is evidently a mistake, those -of the choir, which still survive and are pointed, being also drawn as -if of circular form. The smaller piers of the outer aisles are evidently -much later in style. The outer aisles would appear to have been the -result of an alteration made apparently at an early date. Some fragments -of the south aisle wall and south porch are apparently of first pointed -style, but the outer aisles were undoubtedly restored in the fifteenth -century. This is apparent not only from the style of the piers, but also -from other indications. Thus, from the water table of the aisle roof -against the north-west tower, it is evident that the roof has originally -been of the simple shed form usually employed to cover a single aisle; -while a second water table or groove has been formed to receive the span -roof of the outer aisle. The small portion of the south wall of the nave -which survives also confirms this view, as the form and ornament of the -traceried windows (Fig. 551) assign them to the middle pointed period. -The mode of junction of the outer aisles with the western towers also -shows that the former were afterthoughts, as they project beyond the -outer face of the tower wall in an awkward manner (see Plan). The -junction of the south wall with the transept further indicates that the -position of the former has been altered, as the lower part of a buttress -has had to be cut away to make room for it, and the upper part of the -buttress is left unsupported in mid-air (see Fig. 551). - -The rebuilding of the nave was, doubtless, carried out during the -restoration subsequent to the ruin caused by the “Wolf of Badenoch,” in -1390. This restoration is in the style of the Scottish decorated work - -[Illustration: FIG. 551.--Elgin Cathedral. South Side of Nave.] - -which flourished during the fifteenth century. It should, however, be -kept in view, as above pointed out, that some of the details of the west -window of the south aisle wall and the south porch seem to indicate that -the south wall had been extended to its present position in first -pointed times. The restoration in the decorated period (after the great -destruction of 1390) may, therefore, have proceeded on the earlier lines -of the thirteenth century. The traceried windows of the south aisle are -clearly of the decorated period. The corbels which carry the arches in -the towers, in the bay of the interior next the west doorway, are also -of fifteenth century work. - -There have been cross walls dividing some bays of the outer aisle into -chapels. Of these some fragments can be traced in the south aisle, and a -few of the piscinas and ambries still remain. - -The chapter house (Fig. 552) appears to have been originally built about -the same time as the east part of the choir, the buttresses being -similar in design, but it was afterwards considerably altered. - -As it now stands, the chapter house is practically a structure of the -late pointed period. It is the only example remaining in Scotland of a -similar detached octagonal edifice, with central pillar and vaulted roof -(Fig. 553). It is 37 feet in internal diameter on the ground floor; but -the walls have the peculiarity that, about 8 feet above the floor, they -are corbelled out, and overhang towards the interior. On the side -opposite the entrance where the bishop’s seat stood the corbelling is -carried on an arcade of five arches, enriched with third pointed -ornaments. On the other sides the corbelling is horizontal, with -foliaged caps and corbels at intervals, and detached leaf ornaments in -the mouldings. - -It is apparent from the alteration of the masonry of the exterior that -the windows have been inserted in an older structure. Probably the -chapter house suffered so severely at the hands of the “Wolf of -Badenoch” that it had to be almost rebuilt. The interior of the walls -appears to have been relined with ashlar work when the restoration took -place, new vaulting being erected and enlarged windows introduced at the -same time. The new facing of the interior of the wall is carried round -all the sides, except that in which the entrance doorway is situated. -There it stops short, and the old wall is visible. This lining accounts -for the unusual projection of the upper part of the wall above mentioned -(see Fig. 553). - -The designer of the restoration of the chapter house has apparently -thought that the original floor space might thus be retained without -diminishing the stability of the structure, which is well buttressed on -the exterior, and he has ingeniously calculated that the additional -weight thrown by the corbelled out thickness on the interior of the -walls would serve as a counterpoise to the outward thrust of the -vaulting. The latter springs from a single vaulting shaft in each angle -of the building, resting - -[Illustration: FIG. 552.--Elgin Cathedral. Chapter House from South-West -and South Aisle of Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 553.--Elgin Cathedral. Chapter House: Interior.] - -on a carved head, and having a foliaged cap. The vaulting has ridge ribs -and liernes, and is evidently founded on English examples. The -intersections of the ribs are provided with ornamental bosses. The -windows are large, and were divided with mullions and tracery of the -middle pointed style, most of which is now demolished. - -The central pillar is octagonal, and consists of alternate rounds and -hollows, the former having distinct bases and foliaged caps, and each of -the hollows having a shield with armorial bearings inserted in the -cavetto between the caps of the shafts. - -The shields on the capital of the central pillar of the chapter house -are as follow:-- - - 1. On the south side facing the entrance doorway, a shield with the - royal arms. - - 2. On the north side, immediately opposite the 1st, a sculptured - figure of St. Andrew (see Fig. 553). - - 3 and 4. On each of the east and west sides, a shield having arms - quartered thereon, viz.:--1st and 4th, a lymphad; and 2nd and 3rd, - a fesse chequé, being the arms of Stewart of Lorn or Innermeth[52] - reversed--_i.e._, the 1st and 4th quarters should occupy the - position of the 2nd and 3rd, and _vice versa_ (a mistake not - unusual in Scottish heraldry). - - 5, 6, 7, and 8 occupy the diagonal faces of the octagon, and have - shields bearing the cross, crown of thorns, hands and feet, spear, - and other emblems of the Passion. - -The above heraldic blazons are of some importance, as they enable us to -fix approximately the name and date of the bishop under whom the -restoration of the chapter house was carried out. The royal arms occupy, -as is natural, the most prominent position. The east and west sides both -bear the same arms, and are, doubtless, those of the bishop who presided -at the time of the restoration. - -There were several bishops of the name of Stewart during the fifteenth -century, when the author of the restoration would naturally be looked -for. These were James Stewart (1459), David Stewart (1462), and Andrew -Stewart, who was elect of Moray in 1482. These bishops all belonged to -branches of the family of Lorn. Bishop James Stewart lived for only two -years. Bishop David Stewart was brother of the last bishop, and was -parson of Spynie. “He built the great tower of Spynie Castle[53] (the -Bishop’s Seat), a mighty strong house; it is called to this day David’s -Tower.”[54] “This good prelate made several wise regulations; and after -he had governed the see of Moray fourteen years, he died, and was -buried in the same aisle with his brother,”[55] viz., that of St. Peter -and St. Paul on the north side of the cathedral. - -In 1482, Andrew Stewart, third son of Sir James Stewart, surnamed the -Black Knight of Lorn, by Joan, Queen Dowager of Scotland, the widow of -King James I., was promoted to the bishopric. He had previously been -Lord Privy Seal, sub-Dean of Glasgow, and Rector of Monkland. In 1477 he -was Provost of Lincluden. He died in 1501, and was buried in the choir -of the cathedral. Bishop Andrew Stewart thus held the see for nineteen -years. It is quite possible that the restoration of the chapter house -was begun by Bishop David Stewart, but it seems more likely that the -arms on the pillar are those of Bishop Andrew Stewart. The figure of St. -Andrew, carved on the capital on the north side, being that opposite the -royal arms, seems to favour that view; and the style of a good deal of -the ornament connected with the restored stone lining of the interior, -such as the enrichments of the corbels, &c., agrees rather with the end -than the earlier parts of the fifteenth century. The windows, with their -tracery, may, however, be of a somewhat earlier date. - -A stone reading desk forms part of the central pillar, being attached to -the north-west side at a suitable level. A stone bench runs, as usual, -round the chapter house, and the bases of the shafts in the angle rest -upon it. - -The entrance to the chapter house is by a vestibule opening from the -north aisle of the choir. The interior of the wall over the doorway has -not been thickened like the other sides, and near the top of this blank -wall are four niches (see Fig. 553), now empty, and these are surmounted -by a smaller niche, also empty. - -On the east side of the vestibule is a small vaulted apartment, -containing a stone trough, which was, doubtless, formerly used as a -lavatory. In more recent times it was occupied as a living-room by the -mother of General Anderson (a benefactor of the town), and the trough is -said to have formed the future General’s cradle. - -A wheel-stair, in the south-east angle of the chapter house, leads to -the roof. - -The north and south aisles of the choir have been vaulted and provided -with ridge ribs and liernes. In the north aisle one bay and in the south -aisle three bays of the vaulting still remain (see Figs. 552 and 548). -The latter, called the Lady Chapel, has been restored in the fifteenth -century, when traceried windows were inserted and the vaulting built. - -In this aisle several monuments have been erected. That of Bishop -Winchester (1437-58), in the wall next the choir (see Fig. 548), is a -good example of the work of the period. The recumbent effigy of the -Bishop is in fair preservation, and some traces of paintings of angels -are still visible in the interior of the vaulted canopy of this tomb. -The monument to another Bishop, in the same wall, is of a simpler -design. - -This aisle has long been the burial-place of the ancient family of the -Gordons. The central tomb at the east end is that of the first Earl of -Huntly, who died in 1470. - -In the north wall of the choir is an early example of a tomb of peculiar -design (see Fig. 545). - -[Illustration: FIG. 554.--Elgin Cathedral. Caps in Chapter House.] - -The remains of another monument exist at the passage from the choir to -the north aisle, but so mutilated that its design cannot be made out. -The details of the sedilia and piscina in the choir are also much -destroyed. - -A few specimens of the fine carved work collected amongst the ruins are -exhibited in the chapter house. Two of these are illustrated (Fig. 554), -from which some idea of the richness and beauty of the details which -have perished may be gathered. These probably formed caps of the outer -piers of the nave aisles. - -The transepts contain some interesting monuments. In the south wall - -[Illustration: FIG. 555.--Elgin Cathedral. Monuments in South -Transept.] - -of the south transept, called the Innes aisle (Fig. 555), is the -canopied monument, bearing the arms (said to be) of Alexander Stewart, -Duke of Albany, who died in 1481. The shield on the sinister side of the -tomb bears the fesse chequé and three antique crowns, the arms of the -lordship of Garioch. Another canopied monument in the south wall, to the -left of the above, is said to be that of Robert Innes of Innermarkie. -These monuments are late, and a good deal damaged. The coats of arms on -the shields do not correspond with those of the persons named above. - -The north transept, called the Dunbar aisle, also contains several -remnants of tombs. One in the north wall still retains the mutilated -effigy of Bishop Columba Dunbar (1422-35), and another that of Sir -Alexander Dunbar of Westfield, who died in 1497. In Slezer’s time the -north gable of this transept was complete, and showed in elevation two -stories of three single windows in each, surmounted by a triple light in -the gable. - -[Illustration: FIG. 556.--Elgin Cathedral. Monument of William Hay of -Lochley.] - -One of the most interesting monuments in the cathedral is that of a -knight in full armour (Fig. 556) near the entrance to the Lady Chapel. -It bears the following inscription:--“Hic jacet Wills de la Hay, quondam -dominus de Lochloy, qui obiit VIII die mensis Decembris Anno Domini -MCCCCXXI.” He was of the family to whom Inchoch Castle belonged, which -lies a short way west of Forres.[56] - -Amongst the mutilated fragments of sculpture preserved at the cathedral -is a portion of a gigantic statue, said to be that of Bishop John Innes -(1407-14). It was found at the base of the north-west pillar of the -central tower, of which that bishop commenced the erection. The -inscription on his tomb was as follows:--“Here lieth in Christ the Rev. -Father and Doctor of Divinity John de Innes who began this distinguished -edifice and for seven years sedulously continued the building.”[57] The -tower was rebuilt in 1538 (as already mentioned), and a representation -of it, as it existed in 1693, may be seen in Slezer’s view. It is there -shown as a plain, square erection, with a large window on each side, and -colossal statues at the angles. The so-called statue of “Bishop Innes” -is, doubtless, one of these; but whether it formed part of the original -tower of the fifteenth century, and was replaced on the rebuilt tower of -the sixteenth century, or was a new statue of the latter date, it is -difficult to decide. - -The following is a short epitome of the dates of the different portions -of the cathedral as pointed out in the foregoing description:-- - -The transept was erected about the date of the foundation of the -cathedral in 1224. It may possibly have formed part of the previous -Church of the Trinity, but seems more likely to have been built after -the conversion into the cathedral. - -The western towers follow soon after, being of early first pointed work. -The western portal is somewhat later than the towers. - -The west part of the north wall of the choir appears to be older than -the remainder of that portion of the edifice, and this may possibly have -been part of the original Church of the Trinity; but the general work of -the choir and nave and the original chapter house would appear to have -been carried out during the thirteenth century. The first pointed work -would probably be all completed shortly before the War of Independence, -which stopped all architecture in Scotland for a long period. - -The cathedral was then practically completed, and so remained for about -a century. - -The next great change occurred after the destruction of the edifice by -the “Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390. The nave and chapter house would appear -to have been much destroyed, and were almost rebuilt during the -fifteenth century. The west front above the portal and the whole of the -nave were, doubtless, reconstructed about the time of Bishop Columba -Dunbar (1422-35). The chapter house appears to have been restored in the -time of Bishop David Stewart (1482-1501). The architecture of the nave -and chapter house corresponds with the respective dates of these -prelates, and also bears their coats of arms engraved on each -department. - - -PLUSCARDEN PRIORY, MORAYSHIRE. - -This monastery was one of the three houses of the order of Valliscaulium -founded under Alexander II. in his recently acquired dominions in the -Highlands, the other houses of the order being at Beauly, in -Inverness-shire, and Ardchattan, in Argyleshire. - -The policy adopted by David I., in the twelfth century, of extending -civilisation and order by the planting of religious houses, was thus -continued by his successor in the thirteenth century. We have seen how -Alexander II. encouraged the building of Elgin Cathedral, and it is -recorded that, besides the above monasteries, he endowed religious -houses in Elgin for the Dominicans and Franciscans. - -Pluscarden Priory stands in a long, well-sheltered valley, about six -miles south-west from Elgin. The hills on either side are of moderate -height, and the glen is well planted and cultivated. The priory, which -is dedicated to St. Andrew, stands on a level holm on the bank of the -Blackwater, and has a southern aspect at the base of a wooded hill. It -is surrounded with fine old trees, and the ancient gardens and precincts -of the monks are now cultivated as a thriving nursery, and kept in -beautiful order. Part of the ancient wall of the precinct, with a -gateway towards the east, is still preserved. The climate is mild and -suitable for the growth of vegetation, as is apparent from the very -luxuriant crop of ivy which covers the buildings and almost entirely -conceals their architecture. - -The first charter of Alexander II. is dated in 1236, and endows the -monastery with the whole valley of the Blackwater, and with mills in -Elgin. - -Little is heard of the priory for many years after its institution -beyond the usual disputes with the neighbouring lay proprietors -regarding boundaries, &c., but the establishment seems to have gradually -dwindled, and in 1398 the buildings had been allowed to fall into -disrepair. The election of Alexander as superior at that date proceeded -on the expectation that he would be able to defend the possessions of -the monastery and repair the church and dwellings of the monks. - -During the fifteenth century it seems to have fared ill with the -monastic establishments of Morayshire, for we find that the priory of -Urquhart, in that county, founded by David I. in 1125, had also dwindled -like Pluscarden. - -In 1454 John Benaly, prior of Urquhart, whose brethren consisted of only -two monks, petitions Pope Nicholas V. that he would unite the priory of -Urquhart to that of Pluscarden. He states that, owing to various -calamities, the income of the priories had so diminished that they were -unable to support a prior in each house with a decent and competent -number of religious men, or to keep up the buildings and services; so -that in Pluscarden there were generally not above six monks, and in -Urquhart only two.[58] - -It is stated by Shaw and other writers that the monks of Pluscarden had -become vicious, and that, therefore, the priory was reformed and made a -cell of Dunfermline. - -It appears, however, that the change arose as above described, and, -after due inquiry, William de Boys, Sacristan of Dunfermline, was, in -1460, appointed Prior of Pluscarden and Urquhart, and John de Benaly, -formerly Prior of Urquhart, was made Sacristan of Dunfermline. The -Valliscaulians, or White Monks, were then superseded by the Black -Benedictine Monks from Dunfermline, and the priory became dependent on -that house. - -The last Benedictine prior was Alexander Dunbar, who died in 1560, and -the first lay prior was Lord Alexander Seton, afterwards Earl of -Dunfermline, who obtained possession of the abbey and lands. The monks -do not appear to have been disturbed at the Reformation, but were -suffered to die out gradually, as one monk still remained in 1586. After -passing through the hands of various proprietors, the priory and lands -were acquired by the Earl of Fife, and are now the property of the Duke -of Fife, by whom the edifice and its surroundings are carefully attended -to and kept in good repair. - -The existing buildings (Fig. 557, Plan) consist chiefly of the remains -of the church, comprising an aisleless choir, north and south transepts -with eastern aisles, and a square tower over the intersection. There is -no nave, that portion of the structure having, apparently, never been -erected. The monastic buildings consist of the sacristy, which lies to -the south of the transept, and is known as St. Mary’s aisle; the chapter -house; the slype and the monks’ hall, which all extend in a line further -southwards, the whole forming the east side of the cloisters. The -cloister garth measures 102 feet by 94 feet, and is surrounded by a wall -partly ancient. To the south-east lies a detached ruin, supposed to have -been the prior’s house. The oldest parts of the edifice are the -transepts, with their eastern aisles, which are in the first pointed -style, and were, doubtless, built during the thirteenth century, soon -after the foundation. The transept measures 93 feet 6 inches in length, -and, including the aisles, is 46 feet in width within the walls. - -The sacristy, or lady chapel, which extends along the full breadth of -the south end of the transept and aisle, is probably of the same date. -The design of the north end of the transept (Fig. 558), which was -probably built about the same time as Elgin Cathedral, has some -resemblance to the east end of the choir of that edifice, but is much -plainer. It exhibits two stories of pointed windows, with a large -circular window above, now built up. This wall also contains the only -well-preserved - -[Illustration: FIG. 557.--Pluscarden Priory. Plan.] - -exterior door to the church. There is no triforium, but the clerestory -on the east side is lofty, and has internally a high pointed and -trefoiled - -[Illustration: FIG. 558.--Pluscarden Priory. North Transept.] - -arcade, with a passage in the thickness of the wall. Externally, the -windows of the clerestory of the north transept are plain pointed -arches. Throughout the building the windows are mostly designed as -triplet lancets, enclosed in one pointed arch (Fig. 559). In some cases -the enclosing arch - -[Illustration: FIG. 559.--Pluscarden Priory. View from South-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 560.--Pluscarden Priory. East Side of South -Transept.] - -assumes a segmental pointed form, which enables the side lancets to be -carried higher than in the ordinary arch. This is observable in the -clerestory of the south transept (east side), both in the exterior and -interior (see Figs. 559 and 560). The mode in which the face of the wall -in the inside of the clerestory passage is carried in this position is -very effective, and well worthy of notice. A somewhat similar -arrangement is carried out in the clerestory on the west side of the -south transept (Fig. 561), but is modified over the arch into the nave, -so as to allow of the wall passage being carried up a few steps in the -thickness of the wall. This arrangement forms a kind of triforium. The -moulded work of the transepts is simple, and the shafts, caps, and arch -mouldings are distinctly of first pointed date. But this part of the -structure has been dreadfully damaged, the shafts of the piers, with -their caps and bases, having all been burned, and have crumbled away, -presenting a most disfigured appearance. This appears to have been the -result of the fire afterwards referred to. - -[Illustration: FIG. 561.--Pluscarden Priory. West Side of South -Transept.] - -Both in the choir and the crossing there are signs of great alterations -and repairs. It is thought that the building must have suffered severely -from fire at some time, having probably been burned by the “Wolf of -Badenoch,” in 1390, when Elgin was destroyed. The work which has -subsequently been done indicates that a considerable amount of -strengthening was found necessary. The western piers of the crossing -have been in great part burned away, and are strengthened with new -masonry; and the opening between the north pier and the south pier is -built up (see Plan). On the east side of the crossing a plain double -wall has been erected between the piers, so as to support the arch -above, which carries the tower. In this double wall an archway, only -about 7 feet in width, leads into the choir. To the north of the archway -a staircase in the centre of the double wall led apparently to a gallery -above, while the space within the double wall to the south of the -archway forms a large closet. - -Traces of painted decorations are still visible in the vault over this -part of the church. These consist now of a few gilt stars on a blue -ground; but when Cordiner wrote, about one hundred years ago, he was -able to identify the portrait of St. John under a canopy, accompanied by -his eagle, also a rainbow, and the sun, moon, and constellations. - -The choir, which has no aisles, measures 56 feet in length by 27 feet -wide internally. It has originally been constructed in a light manner, -with very wide window arches, having small piers and buttresses between -them, and it seems to have been vaulted, or intended for vaulting, the -springers of the vaults being visible in the interior (Fig. 562). But -this mode of construction was evidently found too weak, and it became -necessary to partly build up the great arches of the windows and to -introduce much smaller windows within them. The choir is so densely -covered with ivy that these features are not easily detected on the -exterior (Fig. 563), but in the interior view (see Fig. 562) they are -plainly visible. At what period the choir was built it is difficult to -say. The exterior buttresses, so far as visible through the ivy, might -be considered of an early form, but they resemble those of the lady -chapel of Elgin and other structures in the North, which are not very -early. The large vesica piscis over the east window arch, and the -trefoiled triangle in the gable, are likewise rather late features (see -Fig. 559). Keeping in view the great size of the intended windows, which -were clearly meant to be filled with tracery, and the small caps of the -jambs, both exterior and interior, the building may be ascribed to the -fifteenth century. Probably the first design with the very large -openings may have been carried out early in the fifteenth century, soon -after Alexander the prior was appointed, who was expected to improve the -buildings of the priory, which had fallen into decay. - -The insertion of the smaller windows, and the strengthening masonry -within the wide openings, may have formed part of the restoration of the -dilapidated structure which William de Boys would be sure to institute -when he and his Benedictines took possession of the priory in the middle -of the fifteenth century. We shall see that parts of the chapter house -and other portions of the structure may be attributed to the same -revival. - -The reduced side windows of the choir contain portions of late tracery, -and in the filled in mason work of each is inserted a dedication cross -(see Fig. 562), which seems to point to a new dedication of the restored -edifice. The design of the smaller windows introduced within the arch -of the very large east window is remarkable (see Figs. 559 and 562). The -four small pointed arches, surmounted by a traceried window above, -faintly recall the east windows of Elgin Cathedral, while the peculiar -tracery of the upper window plainly indicates a very late date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 562.--Pluscarden Priory. Interior of Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 563.--Pluscarden Priory. Tower, and South-East Angle -of Choir and Transept.] - -The square tower over the crossing is seen (see Fig. 563) to rise -externally only a short way above the apex of the roofs of the choir -and transept. Like the choir, it has been intended to be vaulted, the -springing stones being still visible (see Fig. 558); but the supports -were either found to be too light, or were so damaged by the fire that, -as above mentioned, the piers and arches had to be strengthened with -supporting walls brought up from the foundation. The upper part of the -tower appears to have originally been of the date of the transept, and -to have been restored, like the rest of the edifice, at a later period. -This is evident from the shape of the window openings, which are of -first pointed work, and also from the corbels of the parapet, some of -which are original and of early form, while others, which have been -restored, are of the late form common in the churches and castles of the -fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The large trefoil apertures have -suffered from the fire, and have been built up. - -To the north of the choir is a small vaulted structure about 16 feet -square, called the Dunbar Vestry (see Plan). It is evidently of late -date, and its style supports the tradition that it was erected by Prior -Dunbar shortly before the Reformation. It is vaulted, and bears the arms -of Dunbar on one of the bosses.[59] - -[Illustration: FIG. 564.--Pluscarden Priory. Sacrament House in Choir.] - -Apparently of the same date is the sacrament house (Fig. 564) inserted -in the north wall of the choir, and a door between the choir and vestry, -which has the three-sided arch common at the period. On the north side -of the vestry are some remains of a door and wheel stair, the latter of -which appears to have led to the roof. The position of the vestry is -very awkward, being placed within two feet of the transept aisle, the -windows of which are thus almost obscured by it. - -The part of the church lying immediately to the south of the transept is -called the sacristy, or the lady chapel. It is vaulted, and from the -form of the mouldings, caps, window, &c., is evidently of the same date -as the transept. The vaulting at the west end has been partly rebuilt, -and a fireproof closet formed in the angle, no doubt for the purpose of -containing valuables used in the service. At the east end a ruined -opening into the transept seems to have been a squint to allow the -service at the altar to be seen from the transept. Traces of colour are -still observable here, but in Cordiner’s time many emblematic paintings -were visible. - -To the south of the sacristy is the chapter house, and beyond it the -slype. These have been restored within recent times, and the east -windows renewed in the same pointed segmental form as the old ones. The -doors and windows to the west have also been partly renewed. - -The sketch of the chapter house (Fig. 565) shows the interior looking -north-west, with the double door and two side windows which face the -cloister. The apartment is about 29 feet square, and has a central -pillar on which the vaulting rests. A figure of the Agnus Dei may be -observed on one of the bosses. The chapter house has evidently, from the -first pointed details visible in the door, windows, and corbels, been -erected in the thirteenth century; but the details of the central -pillar, with its slender shafts introduced amongst the mouldings, -clearly indicate a restoration of the chapter house at a date well -advanced in the fifteenth century. The fireplace is of modern design. - -Still further to the south is the monks’ hall or fratry (Fig. 566), a -chamber 45 feet long by 28 feet wide. It is vaulted, and the vaulting is -carried by two central pillars. These are plain octagons, into which the -chamfered ribs of the arches die. The tracery in the window at the south -end is modern, but the large opening is old, having been made so as to -admit as much sunshine as possible from the south. This apartment is now -used for service by the Free Church of the district, and contains the -old pulpit, brought from the ancient church of St. Giles in Elgin, when -it was rebuilt, an interesting example of florid Renaissance carving. -There can be little doubt but that all these buildings south from the -lady chapel belong chiefly to the restoration instituted by the -Benedictines in the fifteenth century. - -In the interior of the south-west angle of the transept may be observed -a wide stone staircase. This leads to the upper floor of the buildings -which lie to the south of the transept, and were formerly the monks’ -dormitories. One small room over the lady chapel may possibly have been -a scriptorium or an oratory. This part of the domestic edifices has now -been restored and roofed in, and set aside by the Duke of Fife as a -place of shelter and amusement for the visitors to the priory. - -The cloister garth is planted with shrubs and kept in good order. Owing -to the slope of the ground there have been steps up to the south -entrance to the garth, and there still remain steps at the north door, -which is a semicircular doorway of good, though late, design. It is -evidently meant for a reproduction of Norman work. - -Another doorway is still preserved at the south-west angle of the -cloister, which was probably the entrance to the refectory. Owing to -the - -[Illustration: FIG. 565.--Pluscarden Priory. Chapter House, looking -North-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 566.--Pluscarden Priory. Interior of Fratery.] - -slope of the ground, the refectory and fratry have been raised on -vaulted cellars. - -Of the prior’s house only the ruins of some of the walls remain. These -show that it has been extensive, but there are no features to give a -clue to its date. Some remains of the priory mill, which adjoined the -prior’s house, are also still observable. - - -ST. MUNGO’S CATHEDRAL, GLASGOW. - -The site on which this cathedral stands has been devoted from very -ancient times to religious uses. It is associated with the name of St. -Ninian, who is reported to have founded a church here in the beginning -of the fifth century. This site was also the scene of the labours of St. -Kentigern, or Mungo, who revived religion in the locality in the sixth -century, and is said to have established an episcopal see. Here the -meeting took place between him and St. Columba, on which occasion, as a -sign of friendship, they exchanged their pastoral staves. The place was -further sanctified by becoming the last resting-place of St. Mungo’s -remains. - -During the political changes which occurred in Strathclyde in the -following centuries Christianity seems to have been almost obliterated. -But in the twelfth century the revival of religion begun by Queen -Margaret had penetrated into this region, and was fostered by her son -David, Prince of Cumbria. In 1115 he restored the see of Glasgow, and -appointed his tutor John (called Achaius) to the bishopric. In order to -provide it with suitable means, an inquisition was made, in 1120, -concerning the lands which had formerly belonged to the church of -Glasgow. In 1124, John, the first of the new line of bishops, began to -replace the ancient church which had previously existed with a new -structure, which was doubtless raised on the site of the old one. This -church was consecrated in 1136, in presence of the king and his retinue. - -Bishop Joceline, previously abbot of Melrose, was consecrated in 1175. -Under him, and by his influence, the burgh received many privileges, and -advanced in prosperity. Between 1189 and 1192 he was engaged in -restoring or adding to the building. - -The original church of Bishop John, “built, perhaps, chiefly of wood,” -had been recently destroyed by fire. Through the exertions of Bishop -Joceline a society was founded to collect funds for its restoration, and -the work was sufficiently advanced for consecration on 6th July -1197.[60] - -It was generally believed, at one time, that the existing choir and -lower church were erected by Bishop Joceline; but it has been shown by -Mr. John Honeyman, architect, in various papers on the subject, -published at various times during the last forty years, that only a -small part of the structure which now exists may possibly be of the -time of that bishop. - -According to Mr. Honeyman, a portion of the lower church, situated at -its south-west angle, and extending from the transept eastwards to the -third buttress of the choir, and including one bay and a half, shows -some differences in its style of architecture from the remainder, and -may be regarded as of the transition style, and may thus be of the date -of Bishop Joceline; while the remainder of the lower church and the -whole of the choir are built in the first pointed style, and cannot be -earlier than the second quarter of the thirteenth century. The actual -builder of the lower church and the choir above, as they now exist, was -Bishop William de Bondington (1233-1258). A large part of the structure -was completed before his death in the latter year, and the style of the -work thoroughly corresponds with his period. In 1242 an ordinance was -made for a national collection annually during Lent in aid of the -building.[61] - -According to Mr. Honeyman, the foundations of the nave were laid, and -part of the walls was carried up, before the building of the choir was -begun. - -Most of the nave appears, from the style of its architecture, to have -been chiefly erected at the end of the thirteenth or the beginning of -the fourteenth century, but there is no record of its construction. It -forms one of the finest examples of the late first pointed or early -decorated style in Scotland. - -Bishop Wishart occupied the see during the greater part of the War of -Independence, and supported the Scottish party on all occasions. He -obtained permission from Edward I. to cut timber in the forest of Luss -for the purpose of erecting the spire of the cathedral; and it was one -of the causes of accusation against him which led to his imprisonment in -England that he had used the timber so obtained, not for building the -spire, but for making engines of war with which to attack Edward’s -forces. - -The wooden spire of the cathedral, which was erected during the -fourteenth century, was struck by lightning and destroyed in 1400. A new -tower of masonry was erected over the crossing by Bishop Lauder -(1408-25), who carried the work as high as the main parapet. This bishop -appears also to have begun the completion of the chapter house, a -detached structure lying to the north-east of the choir. The walls of -this building were partly erected about the time of the construction of -the choir, but were afterwards raised to two stories in height and -vaulted by Bishop Cameron. - -Bishop Lauder was succeeded, in 1425, by Bishop Cameron, called “The -Magnificent,” from his lavish expenditure and the splendour of his -Court. He erected the stone spire above the tower of Bishop Lauder, and -also completed the chapter house wing containing the sacristy on the -upper floor and the chapter house on the ground floor. His arms are -still to be seen on the portions of the structure erected by him. The -beautiful rood screen was also probably constructed by him. - -During Bishop Cameron’s reign the episcopal see was at the highest point -of its power and splendour. The prebendaries, who were originally seven -in number, were now increased to thirty-two, and the bishop required -that they should all have manses,[62] and reside near the cathedral. The -Episcopal Court thus became of great extent and importance, and was said -to rival that of the king. Bishop Cameron died in 1446. He was succeeded -by Bishop William Turnbull, the founder of Glasgow University. His arms -appear on the upper part of the chapter house wing. - -Bishop Robert Blackadder was consecrated in 1484. We have already met -with this prelate in connection with Jedburgh Abbey and Edrom Church. In -his time the see was erected into an archbishopric. A building in -continuation of the south transept, called Blackadder’s Aisle, was -partly erected by him, but was never carried higher than the ground -story or crypt. This archbishop was the last occupant of the see who -added much to the adornments of the cathedral. He founded altarages, and -erected two altars, on which his arms and initials are carved, in front -of the rood screen. - -Towards the middle of the sixteenth century, it became apparent that the -end of the episcopal reign was approaching. Archbishop James Beaton -first withdrew all the treasures and valuables from the cathedral into -the bishop’s castle; but, finding himself and them insecure there, he -retired to France, taking with him what valuables he could, and also the -records of the see from the earliest period. The latter were deposited -in the Scots College in Paris, and at the time of the French Revolution -they were partially saved by the Abbé Macpherson, and sent back to -Scotland. - -These records have now been published by the Maitland Club under the -title of _Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis_, with a valuable -introduction by the editor, Professor Cosmo Innes. - -The cathedral is situated on steep ground sloping eastwards towards the -Molindinar Burn, which here runs through a narrow valley on its way -southward to the Clyde, which is only a short distance off. Opposite the -cathedral, on the eastern bank of the burn, there rises a steep conical -hill, now a many-monumented cemetery, from which fine bird’s-eye views -of the building may be obtained. The surroundings of the edifice have -changed many times since it was built. Till after the Reformation there -stood at the west end of the cathedral the Bishop’s Palace, a great -fortress covering some acres of ground; but of its many buildings, -walls, and towers not a shadow is left. The manses of the prebends have -likewise disappeared, and even the Molindinar Burn is buried as a sewer -deep below the present surface of the valley. The cathedral is -surrounded by the old churchyard, a large open space free from houses, -and the structure can thus be well seen on all sides. - -[Illustration: FIG. 567.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View from West, showing -Western Adjuncts, now removed.[63]] - -Although built at different dates, the edifice has a very homogeneous -appearance, and might easily be mistaken at first sight for a building -of one period. The structure has a gaunt and stern aspect, and greatly -wants some salient features to break its rigid outline. Such features -existed till about the middle of this century in the shape of two -projecting adjuncts at the west end (Fig. 567), the one on the north -side being a tower crowned with a pointed roof, and the other, called -the consistory house, being a lower building, which finished like a pele -tower with a crow-stepped roof and a cape house. These structures have -now been removed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 568.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View from South-East.] - -In the external length of the church, a distance of about 330 feet, the -ground falls from west to east about 15 feet. This fall required the -walls of the eastern part to be raised so as to bring them up to the -level of the western part, and this under-building was made available as -a lower church. This lower church forms one of the finest and most -characteristic features of the edifice. It extends the whole length from -the transept to the east end, and is entirely above ground. It is -supposed that the building has been placed on this sloping ground, and -not on the higher and leveller site a little to the westwards, in order -that the most sacred part, containing the high altar, might be situated -immediately over the supposed site of the original tomb of St. Mungo, -which would, doubtless, be beneath the east end of the primitive church. - -The cathedral, as seen from the east end, with the lower church and the -choir towering above it, is very lofty and imposing (Fig. 568), and -surpasses the view obtained from the west end (Fig. 569) on emerging -from the streets of the city. - -The edifice consists (Fig. 570) of a nave of eight bays, with side -aisles measuring about 122 feet in length by 61 feet 9 inches in breadth -within the walls (the whole length of the edifice being of this width); -transepts, which do not project beyond the aisles; a choir of five bays, -with side aisles and an aisle at the east end of the same height as the -north and south aisles, with chapels beyond it. Entering from one of the -eastern chapels is the sacristy or vestiarium at the north-east corner -of the choir. A wide staircase leads down from the crossing on each side -to the lower church, or crypt, as it is usually called (Fig. 571), and -from the lower church is the entrance to the chapter house, immediately -below the sacristy. On the south side of the church, and in continuation -of the south transept, is situated another low church or crypt, called -“Blackadder’s Aisle;” and on the north side, opposite the west bay of -the choir, are the foundations of what has apparently been intended to -be a large chapel. Over the crossing rise the tower and spire to the -height of 217 feet. The church measures about 283 feet in length by 61 -feet 9 inches in breadth within the walls, and the central alley of the -nave and choir measures between the pillars about 25 feet 3 inches. - -As already mentioned, the most ancient part of the structure, according -to Mr. Honeyman, is the portion of the lower church at the south-west -angle. Mr. Honeyman’s theory is that the church built by Bishop John -(Achaius) was restored by Bishop Joceline at the end of the twelfth -century, and that the above portion at the south-west angle formed a -chapel, and was part of that restoration.[64] He supposes that this -chapel, situated in a corner of the old building least likely to be -interfered with by the proposed operations, had been preserved as a -receptacle for relics while the choir and lower church were being -rebuilt by Bishop Bondington in the thirteenth century. Mr. Honeyman -points out that one shaft and cap in the east wall of the above chapel -and part of the wall adjoining, into which the shaft-stones are bonded, -are of the transition style, and correspond with some other fragments of -the same style which have been discovered lying loose, and which all -appear to have been part of the work carried out in Bishop Joceline’s -time. The vaulting of this south-west chapel is also of transition -character; but from other indications it is thought that this vault has -probably been rebuilt with old materials. These indications are that the -shafts, with - -[Illustration: FIG. 569.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View from West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 570.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan of Nave and -Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 571.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan of Lower Church.] - -their caps and bases, both of the north and south sides of the chapel, -are of later character, those of the south side being similar to the -corresponding features of the nave and those of the north side -resembling the same features in the lower church, and having been, -doubtless, renewed when the lower church was re-erected. The floor of -this south-west chapel is 15 inches above the level of that of the lower -church. The exterior base differs in design from that of the rest of the -lower church, and indicates an earlier date. Mr. Honeyman is of opinion -that when the south staircase to the lower church was erected this small -chapel stood in the way, and prevented the stair from being carried out -in the same manner as that on the north side, which was executed -according to the architect’s design. The eastern wall of the chapel was -afterwards cut through so as to provide access from the south stair to -the lower church. The north staircase to the lower church was not -impeded, as the south one was, by the above chapel, but was carried out -according to the architect’s design, and possesses a handsome early -pointed doorway, where it enters the lower church. - -Mr. Honeyman then goes on to show that the same base as existed on the -outside of the ancient south-west chapel is continued round the nave, -which fact supports his view that the nave was founded and the walls -partly erected before the choir was built by Bishop Bondington. As -pointed out by Mr. Honeyman, the bases of the vaulting shafts and part -of the side walls of the nave aisles (more on the north side than the -south side) were apparently executed at an earlier date than the choir. -“The bases of the shafts on the bench-table of the aisles, with their -delicate mouldings and square plinths, belong to an earlier period than -anything to be seen in the choir.” But when Bishop Bondington came on -the scene and resolved to reconstruct the whole choir, the work at the -nave was stopped, not to be resumed for about a century. - -[Illustration: FIG. 572.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan and Section of -Respond and Base of Nave Aisles.] - -With reference to Mr. Honeyman’s views, as explained above, there is, -undoubtedly, considerable difficulty in accounting for the numerous -peculiarities of the small chamber or chapel at the south-west angle of -the lower church; and it is quite likely, as Mr. Honeyman suggests, that -this may have been part of an earlier building preserved when Bishop -Bondington carried out the work at the choir and lower church. That -there was a good deal of early thirteenth century work done in the nave -there can scarcely be any doubt. Indeed, it is owing to the nave having -been commenced with this early work that it has retained, in its later -portions, which form the completion of the work formerly begun, so much -of a first pointed character. The annexed sketch (Fig. 572) shows the -plan and section of the lower part of the responds of the nave aisles -which Mr. Honeyman relies on for proving their early character as -compared with the work in the choir; and this will be at once -recognised in the keel-shaped shaft and the square plinths and delicate -mouldings of the bases. The junction of the external base of the -south-west angle or chapel with that of the lower church and the -sections of the bases are also shown (Fig. 573). The earlier and simpler -character of the base of the south-west angle is apparent. This early -base is continued round the whole of the nave (passing through -Blackadder’s Aisle), and corresponds in style with the early design of -the bases of the interior wall shafts of the nave shown above. - -[Illustration: FIG. 573.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Buttresses at -South-West Chapel, and Sections of Bases of Nave, Choir, and -Blackadder’s Aisle.] - -In the south wall of the south-west angle or chapel there is a shaft -with the same plan as the responds in the nave aisles, having, like -them, the keel edge and cap with first pointed mouldings (Fig. 574); -while in the lower church and choir the angle shafts have all the fillet -on edge and first pointed caps, as shown in the same Figure. - -[Illustration: FIG. 574.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Details.] - -That there has been transition work in connection with the building is -evident from the fragments preserved in the chapter house, of which -specimens are shown (Fig. 575). Some pieces of groin ribs (Fig. 576) are -also preserved, which have a similar section to those of the south-west -angle or chapel, and a transition base with square plinth and spurs at -the angles. These transition fragments confirm Mr. Honeyman’s view as to -the vault of the south-west chapel having been constructed with old -materials when the north wall of the chapel (the details of which -correspond with those of the lower church) was rebuilt and the chapel -converted into a passage to the lower church. - -[Illustration: FIG. 575.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Fragments in Chapter -House.] - -It is most difficult, owing to the darkness of the place, to obtain -accurate sketches, but the annexed diagram (Fig. 577) gives an idea of -the shaft in the east wall of the south-west chapel and its cap, on -which Mr. Honeyman lays stress as proving their transition character. -The abacus is transitional in section, but the carving is undoubtedly -first pointed. Mr. Honeyman thinks that the cap may have been left rough -at first, and the carving executed in first pointed times. - -Whether this shaft and cap and the vaulting of the south-west chapel are -transitional, or of the early first pointed date of the lower part of -the nave walls, there can be no doubt that Mr. Honeyman’s main -contention is correct--viz., that part of the south-west chapel and the -lower part of the walls of the nave were constructed before the -rebuilding of the lower church and choir was carried out by Bishop -Bondington about the middle of the thirteenth century. - -[Illustration: FIG. 576. - -St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Detached Rib.] - -The lower church (see Fig. 571) is about 125 feet long, and is about 17 -feet in height at the west end; but owing to a fall in the level of the -floor at the east end, the height of the vault at that end measures -about 4 feet more than at the west end. From the choir floor to the -floor of the lower church the height is about 19 feet 3 inches. In order -to obtain this height, the floor of the choir is raised about 3 feet -above that of the nave. The height of the choir from the floor to the -apex of the roof inside is 74 feet 6 inches. - -The following are the entrance doorways to the cathedral--viz., a wide -double entrance doorway at the west end of the nave, and a south doorway -in the second bay from the west end. There are also north and south -doorways in the lower church, and a doorway from the landing of the -north stair to the lower church. - -[Illustration: FIG. 577.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Pillar and Rib in South-West Angle of Lower Church.] - -The lower church (see Fig. 571), supporting as it does the choir with -its aisles and the east aisle with its chapels above, conforms in its -structural arrangements to the plan of the upper church. Thus all the -pillars in the simpler plan above are supported by pillars in the more -complicated plan below. In the latter, between each of the main piers of -the arcade, lesser piers are introduced; so that while there are four -pillars and five bays on each side of the choir above, there are nine -pillars and ten bays in the church beneath. The central area of the -lower church is further subdivided by a simple and beautiful scheme of -pillars and vaulting, which is arranged in the following manner (Fig. -578). A central shrine of four slender pillars (Fig. 579) is placed -opposite the sixth bay, counting from the eastern aisle, and is situated -under the high altar of the choir. This shrine is made the centre of the -scheme for the vaulting of three bays on each side; the remaining bays -on the east and west being treated so as to form a variety both in the -piers and vaults. From the shrine as a centre a single central pillar is -introduced in the spaces to the east and west, and in the bays beyond -them two pillars are introduced in the breadth, and the vaulting is -varied so as to suit this arrangement of the pillars (Figs. 580 and -581). The vaulting of the lower church is a masterpiece of design, and -produces by very simple means a wonderful variety of effect. It is -analysed by Sir G. Gilbert Scott in his lectures, and greatly commended. -This vault has been the subject of very careful examination by Mr. T. L. -Watson, architect, Glasgow, who points out that it must have been -erected at a later period than the rest of the choir. This he proves -from the mouldings, which are of a later character than those of the -choir. His view is that the original intention was to vault the central -aisle with a series of cross vaults similar to those in the side aisles, -and he points out that the springers for these vaults were built along -with the piers. The central vault, however, was delayed for convenience -of building operations till after the upper portions of the choir were -finished, and, when this vault came to be executed, the architect had -devised the more beautiful scheme which is actually carried out. This -required some alteration of the springers, and Mr. Watson draws -attention to the points where the alterations are visible. He also -points out that the two central east windows of the lower church are -different from the others (see Fig. 568). The latter are all double -lancets, whereas the former have each one large arch enclosing two -smaller ones. The larger arches would be left open during the progress -of the work for the introduction of building materials, and the filling -in of the smaller arches would be done after the building was completed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 578.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan of Lower Church, -showing the Vaulting.] - -The new scheme of vaulting was, doubtless, so arranged as to leave the -original grave of St. Mungo undisturbed, and allow the new shrine to be -erected over the sacred spot. - -[Illustration: FIG. 579.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Shrine in Lower Church, -from South-West.] - -The eastern part of the lower church is treated in a manner similar to -the east aisle and chapels over it, except that in the former the -chapels are divided by solid walls (containing arched openings) running -between the piers and the east wall. The object of these cross walls has -been to - -[Illustration: FIG. 580.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Lower Church: Bay near -East End.] - -give solidity to the lower part of the structure. In the upper church -the pillars between the aisle and the eastern chapels stand free, but to -have - -[Illustration: FIG. 581.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Lower Church, near East -End.] - -continued these free standing piers down through the lower church would -have made the construction weak. Even with the walls between the - -[Illustration: FIG. 583.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Doorway to Chapter -House.] - -chapels in the lower church the construction has proved insufficient, -and at this part of the edifice considerable signs of disturbance are -observable. The cross walls contain open arches, each with a piscina and -credence table; and the central one contains a monument. This is -believed to be the effigy of Bishop Wishart (Fig. 582), but as the space -is too short to contain it, the lion at the feet has had to be cut away -in order to enable the effigy to be placed where it is. It, therefore, -seems to have been brought from another site. - -[Illustration: FIG. 582.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Effigy in Lower -Church.] - -In the northmost chapel is the entrance to the chapter house, which -corresponds in style with the lower church (Fig. 583), and has -apparently been built about the same period. The main wall shafts of the -chapter house (Fig. 584), with their rounded and moulded caps and bases, -correspond with those of the lower church, and the windows are also of -corresponding design (see Fig. 597), except that the external bases of -the window shafts are of a later date. The chapter house would appear to -have been left incomplete for a long period, and to have been heightened -and finished in the fifteenth century, as will be pointed out. The -doorway (see Fig. 583), which is in the first pointed style and very -ornamental, was evidently designed to give access to it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 584.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Details of Wall Shafts of Chapter House.] - -The plain cross vaulting of the side aisles of the lower church -corresponds with the piers of the subdivided bays, and on the exterior, -opposite each intermediate pillar (see Fig. 568), there is a buttress of -lesser dimensions than the main buttresses opposite the main piers. - -[Illustration: FIG. 585.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. South Doorway to Lower -Church.] - -The lower church was formerly well lighted with numerous lancet windows, -but, unfortunately, these have been filled, within the last thirty -years, with dark-coloured glass, so that, without the aid of lamps, this -almost unrivalled specimen of mediæval architecture is obscured from -view. Only those whose memory goes back to before the above time can -form a proper idea of the beauty and purity of its details. - -[Illustration: FIG. 586.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Eastern Aisle and -Chapels, looking North.] - -There is a well about 18 feet deep, built with ashlar, at the east end -of the south wall, and near it an altar tomb to one of the family of the -Colquhouns of Luss, whose arms it bears. The well may have contributed -to the weakness of this part of the edifice; but although the upper part -of the building is as much as 18 inches off the plumb, there is no -appearance of any settlement at the base. The wall seems to have -suffered from a thrust outwards while in course of erection, as the -upper story is set back from the lower portion, which is off the plumb. - -The south doorway of the lower church (Fig. 585) is a very simple and -beautiful design, and forms a porch projecting as far as the buttresses. -It has a groined ceiling covered with a sloping stone roof. Immediately -opposite the south doorway there is a north entrance to the lower -church, which has a moulded pointed arch head, but no porch. - -[Illustration: FIG. 587.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Section of Piers.] - -The interior of the choir is a noble specimen of first pointed design. A -striking and unusual feature of the plan is the ambulatory aisle which -runs round the east end (see Fig. 570), having four chapels beyond it to -the east, as above mentioned. These chapels are not divided, like those -in the lower church, by walls, but are quite open, and the pillars stand -free. The view (Fig. 586) shows that the pillars are slender and -clustered, with dog-tooth mouldings in the hollows. Their section is -shown in Fig. 587. The caps are rounded and moulded, while those of the -wall shafts are carved with foliage. Fig. 588 shows the south-east bay -of the east end. The piscina seen in the south-east angle has the drain -carried direct to the outside, and is not carried down to the ground, as -usual. The vaulting here is of later date than the rest of the work, as -is apparent from the - -[Illustration: FIG. 588.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. South Chapel at East -End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 589.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. North-East Angle of -Choir.] - -sections of the ribs. As the vaulting was, doubtless, much dislocated by -the disturbance which has taken place at the south-east corner, it may -have been rebuilt; or, as Mr. Watson points out, it may have been -delayed till after the vaulting of the lower church was completed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 590.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. South Doorway of Nave.] - -The main arcade is carried round the east end of the choir (Fig. 589). - -[Illustration: FIG. 591.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Transverse Section -through Choir and Lower Church, looking East.] - -To accomplish this, with arches of about the same width as those of the -side aisles, the wall had to be divided into two bays having a central -pillar, which is not a pleasing feature. Above the main arcade rises the -east wall of the cathedral, pierced with four graceful lancets (see Fig. -591).[65] This arrangement of a central mullion in the large upper -window was almost rendered necessary in order to carry up the design of -the single pillar in the centre of the main arcade, otherwise a central -light, as at Salisbury, would doubtless have been preferable. - -Churches with an eastern ambulatory are occasionally to be met with in -England, a fine example being the church of the Abbey of Dore, in -Hertfordshire. This ambulatory aisle is the British equivalent for the -aisle which is generally carried round foreign apses, and from which the -apsidal chapels open. - -A similar plan to that of the eastern end of Glasgow Cathedral was -reproduced at Rosslyn Collegiate Church two hundred years later, -although with very different details and on a greatly reduced scale. - -Each bay of the choir (see Fig. 589) rises from clustered pillars having -numerous attached shafts and mouldings (see Fig. 587), and caps -elaborately carved with first pointed foliage. The triforium gallery -contains two pointed openings, each embracing two smaller arches, and -having trefoil and quatrefoil apertures in the spandrils. The clerestory -consists of a double wall, with passage between. It has three pointed -lights of equal height in the outer wall, and three corresponding -openings in the interior, with boldly moulded shafts and arches. A small -sharply pointed arch is introduced at each side of the main vaulting -shafts. The caps on each floor are all of rounded form. - -The south doorway of the nave (Fig. 591) (now forming the principal -entrance to the church) is, like that of the lower church, inserted -between two buttresses; but it has no projecting porch, and finishes -with a flat roof, above which the top of an ordinary traceried window is -seen in the plane of the wall. To give importance to this entrance the -flanking buttresses are finished at the top with niches for statues, and -in connection with the corbels under these occur the only pieces of -foliaged carving to be seen in the whole nave. - -The western doorway (see Fig. 569) contains two openings with a solid -mullion between. This part of the structure has evidently been greatly -repaired and altered when the western adjuncts above referred to were -removed. - -The whole of the cathedral is vaulted except the central alleys of the -nave and choir. Vaulting shafts are carried up in the nave (Fig. 592) -from the string course above the main arcade, and in the choir (see Fig. -589) from the caps of the main piers to the wall head, as if the idea of -vaulting the central area had been contemplated; but it is quite - -[Illustration: FIG. 592.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. North Side of Nave.] - -evident from the smallness of the buttresses of the clerestory (Fig. -593) that the walls were not calculated to resist the strain which such -a vault - -[Illustration: FIG. 593.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View of South Side, -looking West.] - -would have brought against them. The present vaulting beneath the -central tower is modern, as also are the plaster ceilings of nave and -choir. The vault of the north aisle of the choir has ribs of an early -form, while those of the south aisle are of a later design (Fig. 594). -On the panels of the latter vault there are a number of figures, -comprising the symbols of the evangelists, &c. - -The bays of the nave are divided by clustered piers of smaller size and -later shape than those of the choir (see Fig. 587), and the moulded caps -(which follow the outline of the shafts and hollows of the piers) are -also of later character. Each bay of the triforium and clerestory (Fig. -592) is divided into two openings, and has shafts running up through the -whole height, which unite the two stories into one, a design which -produces a striking effect. The triforium openings of the nave, although -not without great vigour, are perhaps the most rudely executed features -in the whole building. The jamb and arch mouldings accommodate -themselves to each other in an awkward manner, and the fitting in of the -uncouth trefoil tracery is quite a contrast to the fine finishing of the -clerestory above. It is not easy to account for the careless work in the -triforium, as the upper part of the nave appears to have been all -executed about one period. The coarse workmanship is much more striking -in the building than can be shown by drawings on a small scale. - -[Illustration: FIG. 594.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Ribs in North, East and South Aisles of the Choir.] - -The windows of the aisles, in the choir and part of the nave, are very -much alike and very simple in design, and some of them are grouped and -contain rudimentary rather than real tracery. Some of these are visible -in the choir in Fig. 593, and Fig. 595 shows one in the north aisle of -the choir, which may be taken as a specimen. It consists of three -lancets separated by mullions, which might rather be described as -portions of the wall with small buttresses attached, and the whole -enclosed within one arch, having the spandril above pierced with a -quatrefoil and two trefoils. - -The tracery of the windows on the south side of the nave is simple, but -completely formed (see Fig. 590), each window having two mullions and -three trefoils in the arch head. Those of the clerestory have each a -central mullion divided in the arch into two branches (Fig. 596). - -The tracery in the great windows in the west end (see Fig. 569) and in -those of the north transept (see Fig. 593) and south transept is modern, -and it is not easy to determine how far the designs follow the -originals. The north transept window (see Fig. 596), which was “taken -down and rebuilt,”[66] looks, from the simplicity of its design, to be -probably like what the original may have been. Regarding the other two -great windows, one cannot be so sure. The great buttress enclos- - -[Illustration: FIG. 595.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Window in North Aisle of Choir.] - -*ing the staircase at the north-west angle of the north transept (see -Fig. 596) is a noteworthy feature, differing as it does from the other -buttresses flanking the end walls. It occupies part of the space which -naturally falls to the eastmost window of the nave aisle, and this -opening, instead of being designed as a smaller window to fit the space, -is treated with the same design as the others, and thus presents the -appearance of having been cut in two. In each of the four great gables -the vesica aperture occurs; and this, along with the constant repetition -throughout the whole building of certain features, such as the parapets -with their supporting corbels, the peculiar gargoyles, the slender -buttresses in the clerestories, and the terminations of the main -buttresses, all show that the keynote of the design struck by the early -builders was taken up and continued by their successors. As above -pointed out, this, no doubt, partly arose from the lower portions of the -whole structure having been begun at an early period, though, in part, -not finished till a later time. Even in the chapter house building (Fig. -597), the upper story of which is of a distinctly Scottish character, -the continuation of early features has not been lost sight of. Here the -details of the church built by Bishop Bondington in the thirteenth -century furnished models for the work even of the fifteenth century. The -lower windows are similar in form, the parapets of the chapter house -wing are continued round at the same level as those of the aisles of the -choir, and the buttresses are also similar. Attention may be drawn to -the curious treatment of the upper water tables of the buttresses of -this wing. The slope is divided into two halves, one half rising a -little higher than the other. - -[Illustration: FIG. 596.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. North Transept.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 597.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Chapter House, from -North-West.] - -The chapter house wing is two stories in height, and the staircase -finishes on top (Fig. 598) with a cape house, after the manner of the -pele towers. This wing measures on Plan about 30 feet square internally, -and has a central pillar supporting the vaulting on both floors. The -chapter house, which is on the ground floor, was, as we have seen, left -in an unfinished state in the thirteenth century. In the early part of -the fifteenth century, Bishop Lauder has evidently recommenced work at -it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 598.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. East End of Cathedral -and Chapter House, from South-East.] - -The wall shafts (see Fig. 584), with their early section and first -pointed caps and bases, have the appearance of being older than his -time; but the Dean’s seat, which has been inserted in the east side -(Fig. 599), is part - -[Illustration: FIG. 599.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Dean’s Seat in Chapter -House.] - -of his work. It is in the design of that period, and contains the -following inscription along the top--viz., Wilms: fuda: instut: Caplm: -Dei, which Archbishop Eyre thus renders,[67] “William laid the -foundation of this chapter house in God’s honour.” The William referred -to was Bishop William Lauder, whose arms (a Griffin Segreant) occur on a -shield on the lintel below the inscription. The shield is surmounted by -the bishop’s crosier. - -[Illustration: FIG. 600.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Sacristy, looking -North-East.] - -The shield of Bishop Lauder is also inserted on the exterior of the west -side of the chapter house. It is shown on a slab in Fig. 600, and is a -characteristic piece of heraldic decoration. Fig. 600 shows the upper -apartment or sacristy. - -The completion of this wing was carried out by Bishop Cameron, who built -the upper story, or sacristy, and vaulted the building. It is not quite -clear whether the vaulting of the lower story was executed by Bishop -Cameron or Bishop Lauder. The central pillar (Fig. 601) is late, and the -boss of the north-west compartment seems to contain the Cameron arms. -The groin ribs (=A=) are of early form, while those of the sacristy (=B=) -are of a late section. The vaulting springers of the chapter house may -have been built at the same time as the chapter house shafts--_i.e._, in -the thirteenth century--and completed in the fifteenth century with the -same section as they were begun with; while the groins of the sacristy, -being entirely of fifteenth century work, are of the section of that -period. - -[Illustration: FIG. 601.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Details of Central -Pillar, &c., in Chapter House.] - -The shields in the bosses of the chapter house are somewhat difficult to -decipher; but that in the south-east bay may possibly represent the -royal arms of Scotland and England impaled, and stand for James I. and -his wife, Margaret Tudor.[68] King James returned to Scotland in 1424, -about which time the chapter house vault may have been built. - -The upper chamber is undoubtedly the work of Bishop Cameron. The central -pillar has two shields in the capital. That fronting a person entering -contains the royal arms, surmounted by a crown (see Fig. 600); and the -shield on the opposite side contains Bishop Cameron’s arms. There is -here an analogy with the central pillar of the chapter house of Elgin -Cathedral, where the royal arms and those of the bishop by whom it was -completed are carved on the capital. The Cameron arms also occur in the -cap of the wall shaft opposite the coat above referred to, and likewise -over the fireplace (see Fig. 600). - -[Illustration: FIG. 602.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Rood Screen and -Entrance to Choir and Lower Church.] - -The sacristy contains, as shown in the sketch (see Fig. 600), stone -built projecting cupboards and a large fireplace. The arms of Bishop -Cameron on the mantel above the latter contain an example of how -heraldry and architecture may be made to work together; one of the -members of the cornice over the fireplace being continued across the -shield, so as to form one of the fesses of the Cameron coat. A wide -wheel stair close to the entrance connects the chapter house and the -vestry above. A shield containing a bull’s head, the arms of Bishop -Turnbull, is inserted in the outside of the west wall, near the top. The -wing may have been completed by that prelate. - -[Illustration: FIG. 603.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Archbishop Blackadder’s Arms on Altar.] - -Mr. Honeyman[69] conjectures that the Rood screen (Fig. 602) which is -erected between the eastern piers of the central tower was built by -Bishop Cameron. It contains a staircase in the space in the north side, -and in the opposite side are cupboards for containing church vestments. -In front of the screen there are two fine stone altars, that on the -south side being known as the altar of St. Mary of Pity, and that on the -north side as the altar of the Holy Cross. The arms and initials of -Archbishop Blackadder (Fig. 603) are carved on the ends of both of these -altars. - -The rood screen with its two altars, although evidently a late work, -adds considerably to the picturesque effect of the interior of the -cathedral. It has a large, deeply-recessed and moulded doorway in the -centre, the arch of which is of elliptical form, and has the jamb -mouldings (Fig. 604) continued, without caps or break, round the arch -head. On each side of the doorway the surface of the wall is covered -with shallow panels having trefoiled arch heads. A corbel in each of -these panels (now cut off) once supported a statue, and these would add -much to the effect of the structure. The cornice is large, and is -surmounted by an open parapet containing quatrefoils, and having -standards running up in the centre of each alternate quatrefoil. The -standards are ornamented with small pinnacles, and are supported on -corbels, each of which contains two human figures, which recall similar -carvings at Rosslyn Chapel, but are of finer execution.[70] - -The structure begun to be erected in continuation of the south transept -has already been referred to. The building (see Fig. 571) is 57 feet in -length by 25 feet in width internally, and comprises four bays in the -length and two in the width, supported on three central pillars. The -entrance is from the wide landing of the staircase in the south transept -leading down to the lower church, from which point a series of wide -steps leads down to the floor. From these steps a good view is obtained -of the interior (Fig. 605). - -[Illustration: FIG. 604.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. - -Details of Rood Screen.] - -The pillars are all moulded and provided with caps and bases, and the -arches springing from them have numerous moulded groins with large -foliaged bosses at the intersections. A substantial stone bench -surrounds the outer walls; on this rest the bases of the responds and -the sloping sills of the windows. Externally the building is plain (see -Fig. 593), and has evidently been prepared for an upper story. It has a -heavy moulded base, which is returned round the buttresses. The section -of this base (see Fig. 573) is different from those of the nave and -choir, and is doubtless later, the base of the main building being (as -above mentioned) carried through this wing, which abuts against it. The -buttresses of the main building are also carried down to the base, and -the walls and arches of the crypt abut upon them. The doorway is -evidently much older than the crypt. The windows have plain tracery, and -over each window is a small panel containing a piece of sculpture, -probably representing subjects from a mediæval bestiary, such as those -referred to in Vol. I. p. 19. They look older than the building in which -they are inserted. - -[Illustration: FIG. 605.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Interior of -Blackadder’s Crypt.] - -It is conjectured from the following inscription on the vaulting, “This -is ye ile of Car Fergus,” that this structure was begun at an early -period, and that it was completed by Archbishop Blackadder, whose arms, -surmounted by his mitre, are carved on the central buttress at the south -end, and also on the corbel of a niche at the north-west angle. It is -difficult to decide either the date or the purpose of this structure. -It - -[Illustration: FIG. 606.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Monument to the Barons -of the House of Mynto.] - -has evidently been intended to be carried higher, and probably may have -been meant to form an extension of the transept. Although the work in -the interior has considerable resemblance to that in the lower church, -it is decidedly later, and has been copied from it. The work on the -exterior is very much inferior, and the carving of the caps, which -seems also to be imitated from that of the choir, is evidently late and -debased. The groin ribs, too, are coarse, and point to about the time of -Bishop Blackadder. - -[Illustration: FIG. 607.--St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Part of Monument, -enlarged.] - -The western towers or adjuncts, already mentioned (see Fig. 567), were -structures of considerable importance, that on the south-west being a -very strong keep, about 34 feet by 32 feet, with walls 9 to 10 feet -thick, strengthened by great buttresses. It was about 54 feet in height -to the parapet, and 70 feet to the cape house roof. This structure is -believed to have been built about the middle of the fourteenth century. -Those who know anything of our pele towers can easily understand how -much the cathedral was marred by the loss of such a characteristic -feature. - -The other structure which stood at the north-west angle was of about the -same size, but was considerably higher, being 118 feet to the parapet, -and was surmounted by a lead-covered spire. Both the above adjuncts were -taken down in 1846. - -The ancient monuments in the cathedral are comparatively few, those -which survive being all of the sixteenth and later centuries. Two of -these are seen in Figs. 588 and 590, which show that the design of that -period is well represented. - -Another of these sixteenth century monuments is shown in Fig. 606, -erected in memory of the barons of the House of Mynto. This monument is -noteworthy from its possessing one of the few examples of old brasses in -Scotland. The brass (Fig. 607) represents one of the barons in armour -kneeling and looking towards the sun, surrounded with rays in the upper -corners. - - -BRECHIN CATHEDRAL, FORFARSHIRE. - -The Bishoprics of Brechin and Dunblane were founded towards the close of -the reign of King David I. from the remains of the old Pictish Bishopric -of Abernethy. Although a religious establishment had existed at Brechin -previously, it had no claim to represent an old Columban monastery. The -earliest notice of Brechin is that in the Pictish chronicle which -narrates that King Kenneth, son of Malcolm, who reigned from 971 to 995, -gave the great town of Brechin to the Lord. The dedication of the church -to the Holy Trinity also indicates a comparatively late date. This -church, like many others founded after King Kenneth Macalpin’s -restoration of the Irish priests in the middle of the ninth century, -emanated from the Irish Church, and was assimilated in character to the -Irish monasteries. To this connection is, no doubt, attributable the -famous round tower which still exists at Brechin. - -The next notices of Brechin occur in the reign of David I. In the early -part of his reign a charter to the Church of Deer is witnessed by “Leot, -Abbot of Brechin,” and a later charter is witnessed by “Samson, Bishop -of Brechin.” The abbot had probably, in the interval, become the bishop, -while the abbey was secularised and passed into the possession of a lay -abbot, and a community of Keledei under a prior. These formed the -chapter of the diocese till they were superseded by a regular cathedral -chapter. In 1218 the Keledei are distinguished from the chapter, and in -1248 they entirely disappear.[71] - -Several of the bishops of the diocese were men of note, and rendered -important services during the War of Independence and in connection with -the redemption of David II. from captivity, and, in consequence, -obtained privileges to the town. The cathedral was also largely -benefited by the Earl of Crawford, and received liberal grants from the -Stewarts, Earls of Atholl. There is, however, little to be gathered from -the accounts of the lives of the bishops regarding the history of the -structure of the cathedral. Almost the only statement bearing on the -subject is that the vicar of the parish of Lethnot, in fulfilment of his -obligation, “delivered to Patrick, Bishop of Brechin (1354-84), a large -white horse, and had also given a cart and horse to lead stones to the -building of the belfry of the Church of Brechin in the time of Bishop -Patrick.”[72] - -The gradual declension of the bishopric and the loss of the church -property followed the usual course. A precept by James III., in 1463, -states that, through the profligacy of the bishop and canons, the -revenues of the cathedral had been greatly reduced by frequent -alienations of its property, and, in consequence, steps were taken and -some of the lands were restored, or an annual feu-duty paid for them. - -After the Reformation, Alexander Campbell was bishop from 1566 to 1610. -By a grant in his favour he was empowered to sell, for his own benefit, -all revenues and properties belonging to the see then vacant, or which -might become vacant. Of this power the bishop freely availed himself, -both for his own interest and also for the benefit of his powerful -patron, the Earl of Argyll. His example was speedily followed by the -archdeacon, chancellor, and presbyters, who, on various pretexts, -disposed of their houses and lands. By these means the property of the -cathedral was lost to the church and passed into the hands of laymen. - -The cathedral continued to be used after the Reformation for Protestant -worship, and, according to Mr. Black, the edifice was little interfered -with till 1806. Before that period he describes it as a handsome Gothic -building, consisting of a nave with two aisles, and a transept formed by -an extension of these aisles to the north and south. Mr. Black also -states that there is no appearance of there ever having been any pillars -or arches in the transepts, and questions whether the choir was ever -finished, or if there was anything more than a lady chapel. The -appearance of the cathedral in the end of last century is shown in -Grose’s view. - -In 1806 great alterations were made on the edifice. The north and south -transepts were removed, new and wider aisles were built on each side of -the nave, and the outer walls of the aisles were carried to such a -height that the whole nave could be covered with a roof of one span -(Fig. 608), “thus totally eclipsing the beautiful windows in the nave, -and covering up the handsome carved cornice of the nail-head quatrefoil -description which ran under the eaves of the nave.”[73] - -The windows of the clerestory (three on each side), which are now -concealed by the roof, are peculiar in their arrangement, being placed -over the piers instead of over the centre of the arches, as is usual. -Externally they have plain splays, and internally they seem to have been -richer, but are now obscured by plaster. The windows and the dog-toothed -cornice seem to point to an early date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 608.--Brechin Cathedral. View from South-East.] - -The only parts of the interior of the nave spared during the above -restoration are the main piers, of which there are eight (Fig. 609), -with four responds. Two of these piers seem to indicate, from their -form, so far as not damaged, that this part of the structure must -originally have been of first pointed work. The piers on the south side -are octagonal, and those on the north side are alternately octagonal and -clustered. A remarkable feature of the building is observed in -connection with these piers, those of the south side, together with the -arcade above them, being considerably thinner than those of the -corresponding parts of the north side. As the clerestory walls above are -the same on both sides, it is difficult to account for the difference in -size of the piers. The interior of the nave is 83 feet 6 inches in -length by 57 feet 6 inches in breadth. Fortunately part of the west end -has not been interfered with, - -[Illustration: FIG. 609.--Brechin Cathedral. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 610.--Brechin Cathedral. West End.] - -notwithstanding all the alterations, and there we still have the -original transition doorway, flanked by the fifteenth century tower on -the north, and the famous round tower on the south (Fig. 610). At the -east end of the nave are preserved portions of the ruined side walls of -the aisleless choir, a beautiful example of first pointed work (Fig. -611). - -[Illustration: FIG. 611.--Brechin Cathedral. Choir.] - -The most interesting, as well as the most ancient, structure connected -with Brechin Cathedral is the round tower, 103 feet in height, which is -now incorporated with it, and occupies the place of a spire at the -south-west angle (see Figs. 608 and 610). This and the corresponding -round tower at Abernethy,[74] on the south side of the Tay, are the only -representatives on the mainland of Scotland of this special kind of -erection. At Egilsay, in Orkney,[75] is found the only other round tower -of this kind in the country. - -These round towers have given rise to much controversy as to their date -and use, but the whole of our knowledge regarding them has been -admirably summed up by Dr. J. Anderson, in his _Scotland in Early -Christian Times_, p. 52. It is there shown that these round towers are -outliers of a group of which Ireland is the home. As has been pointed -out in the Introduction to the first volume, the period of the Irish -round towers is comprised between the end of the ninth century and the -beginning of the twelfth century. We have above seen that the first -church in Brechin was founded by a colony of ecclesiastics, after the -Irish model, about the beginning of the eleventh century, and the -probability is that the tower was erected during that century. Brechin -is said to have been destroyed by the Danes in 1012, and it seems not -unlikely that the monks there would follow the plan adopted in Ireland -in the case of similar invasions, in order to protect their -valuables--viz., to erect a strong detached round tower as a place of -refuge and security. The Brechin tower corresponds in all its features -with Irish examples. The detached situation; the circular form tapering -from the projecting base to the summit; the doorway raised 6 feet 6 -inches above the ground, and ornamented with details and sculptures -similar to those of Irish models; the division into stories by means of -internal string courses to sustain wooden floors, but without any means -of access except ladders, and lighted by two small windows with inclined -jambs; the four large windows at the top facing the cardinal points; the -ornament of the cornice and the pointed roof (although this, no doubt, -is a later restoration), are all elements distinctive of the old Irish -round towers. The stones of which the tower is built are large, and they -are cut to the circle, but are not laid in regular courses. The tower -measures 86 feet 9 inches to the base of the sloping roof. It is divided -into seven unequal stories, with string courses in the interior. - -The Irish round towers are divided by Miss Stoke’s classification into -four periods; and the nature of the masonry of the Brechin Tower -corresponds with the third of those periods, which in Ireland would be -the first half of the tenth century, but in this derivative example -would, doubtless, be somewhat later. - -The doorway, with its sculpture (Fig. 612), is especially interesting. -It presents features all characteristic of its Irish originals. The -aperture is small, and the jambs are inclined inwards towards the top. -They are in single stones the full breadth of the wall, and are covered -with a - -[Illustration: FIG. 612.--Brechin Cathedral. Doorway of Round Tower.] - -single stone, hollowed out into a semicircular arch. The arch has two -such stones in the thickness. The sill is also in one stone. These -stones are all dressed and carved with an architrave-like figure running -all round the doorway, enriched with a flat pellet ornament, a form of -frequent use in Irish examples. On the summit of the arch is carved a -crucifixion, with the legs not crossed. In the round tower at -Donoughmore, County Meath, a representation of the Crucifixion occupies -a similar position over the head of the doorway. Dr. J. Anderson gives -the following minute description of the sculpture of the Brechin -Tower:--“In the middle of the height of the jambs on either side are -raised panels, bearing figures in relief of men habited as -ecclesiastics. One bears a pastoral staff of the form peculiar to the -early Celtic Church, having a curved head resembling that of a -walking-stick. The other bears a book on his breast, and carries a -cross-headed or tau-staff, which is of exceedingly rare occurrence -either in this country or any other. At the lower part of the jambs on -either side are the figures of two crouching beasts. One is a winged -griffin, and both bear a close affinity to the figures of nondescript -creatures carved on the early sculptured memorial stones.”[76] On each -side of the arch of the doorway are two projecting blank panels, -apparently intended for sculptures never executed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 613.--Brechin Cathedral. West Doorway.] - -When the Bishopric of Brechin was founded by King David, a church would, -no doubt, be erected, but of that structure not a fragment remains. Of -the existing building the western doorway (Fig. 613) presents the oldest -feature. It is 5 feet 9 inches wide, and deeply recessed, the jambs -being enriched with five detached shafts set in a series of nooks, and -having moulded caps and bases, the caps with round abaci. The arch is -pointed, and contains five orders carved with numerous bold mouldings, -some of which present details showing the remains of a highly relieved -chevron, a lingering form of Norman enrichment, together with rows of -dog-tooth ornaments. The whole effect is simple and massive, and -corresponds with other examples of early first pointed work, which may -be assigned to the early part of the thirteenth century. - -The upper and the southern parts of the west façade (see Fig. 610) have -been rebuilt at a later period. The portion over the doorway contains a -fine example of late decorated tracery in the large western window, and -the rebuilt portion to the south contains a niche, which is rather -eccentrically introduced (see Fig. 613). - -[Illustration: FIG. 614.--Brechin Cathedral. - -Cap in Interior Angle of Tower.] - -As mentioned in the foregoing historical notes, we have an indication -that the north-west tower or “belfry” was apparently in course of -construction between 1351 and 1373. To judge from some of the features -of the building, it must have been a long time in erection. It was -probably begun before the above date, and the lower part may have been -built during the thirteenth century. The design of the angle caps (Fig. -614) which support the vaulting of the ground floor is of a decidedly -first pointed character. Possibly these capitals may have belonged to an -older tower, and were simply reused in the reconstruction of the -existing tower. The peculiar vaulting of the ground floor of the tower -(Fig. 615), and the form of the base and other details, point to a later -date than that of the capitals. The upper part of the tower containing -the fine belfry windows (Fig. 616) may be classed as decorated work, and -probably belongs to the time (fourteenth century) of Bishop Patrick, -above referred to. The spire is doubtless later, having a series of -lucarnes such as are usual in the spires of the third pointed period. -The effect of the tower and spire is good. It is the completest and best -remaining example of its kind in Scotland. The tower is 70 feet in -height, and the octagonal spire is 58 feet high. Some portions of the -parapet have been altered and restored. - -[Illustration: FIG. 615.--Brechin Cathedral. Vaulting of Ground Floor of -Tower.] - -The choir (see Fig. 611), so far as preserved, shows the ruins of a fine -example of first pointed work. It has been without aisles, and the side -walls contained a series of tall lancet windows, with plain chamfers -externally, but having the wall space relieved internally with detached -shafts and moulded arches, enriched with the dog-tooth. - -[Illustration: FIG. 616.--Brechin Cathedral. Tower and Spire from -North-West.] - -The shafts are arranged so as to form a cluster of three smaller shafts -round a larger central nucleus. They have round moulded caps, bases, and -central band. The shafts are now much mutilated, but they are shown -restored in the drawing. - -The choir, which Mr. Muir states was originally 84 feet 4 inches in -length, is now reduced to three lancet windows on the north side, and -one and a respond on the south side, the existing portions of the side -walls being about 30 feet in length. An enriched cornice runs along the -wall head above the windows. - -The choir, although now reduced to a mere fragment, must, when complete, -have been a very pure and beautiful piece of architecture. - - -MAISON DIEU, BRECHIN, FORFARSHIRE. - -This is an interesting fragment of first pointed work. The chapel is -said to have been founded, in 1256, by William de Brechin for the repose -of the souls of Kings William and Alexander, and of his brother John, -Earl of Chester and Huntingdon; of Henry, his father, and Juliana, his -mother. This structure, no doubt, as its name implies, formed part of a -hospital. It was endowed with lands, some of which it still retains--one -place being yet known as the Maison Dieu Farm. A small revenue derived -from the land is generally gifted by the Crown to the rector of the -Grammar School, who consequently signs himself “Praeceptor Domus -Dei.”[77] - -[Illustration: FIG. 617.--Maison Dieu. Plan.] - -The part of the chapel which still survives stands in a back lane in the -centre of the town of Brechin, and consists of a portion of the south -wall and a small piece of the east wall (Fig. 617). The sketches show -that the work is in the first pointed style, and is simple and pure in -character. The south wall (Fig. 618), which bounds the lane on one side, -is about 40 feet in length, and contains a doorway, with a nook shaft in -each jamb, and good mouldings in the arch (Fig. 619). It also contains -three lancet windows and one jamb of a fourth. The fragment of the east -wall terminates at the jamb of the first window. The mouldings - -[Illustration: FIG. 618.--Maison Dieu. South Wall: Exterior.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 619.--Maison Dieu. Section of Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 620.--Maison Dieu. Section of Window.] - -and other details of the windows are plain, but effective, the sconsion -mouldings being unusually fine (Figs. 620 and 621). There is a piscina -in the south wall with a stone shelf, but the details are a good deal -damaged. - -[Illustration: FIG. 621.--Maison Dieu. South Wall: Interior.] - -This fragment is valuable, and should be carefully preserved. - - -LINDORES ABBEY,[78] FIFESHIRE. - -The scanty ruins of this once important abbey are situated a short -distance eastwards from the town of Newburgh, and not far from the south -bank of the Tay. - -The abbey was founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, grandson of David -I., and brother of King William the Lion. The foundation took place in -1178, being the same year as that in which Arbroath Abbey was founded by -William the Lion. The abbey was colonised by Tironensian monks from -Kelso, Guido, the first abbot, having been previously prior of the -latter monastery. The buildings are said to have been erected under the -superintendence of Abbot Guido, but as he died in 1219, the style of -architecture, which is pure first pointed, leads to the conclusion that -they can only have been planned, and perhaps begun, under the first -abbot. The institution was munificently endowed by the founder, who -bestowed upon it churches both in Scotland and England. It was also -encouraged by the De Quinceys, Earls of Winchester, who, in 1264, -presented to it the peat moss of Kinloch and the Church of Culessy. The -Church of Dundee also belonged to the monks of Lindores. The abbey is in -the parish of Lindores (now Abdie) (_q.v._), and the name of the old -Culdee church which stood beside the Loch of Lindores, a few miles to -the south, was transferred from the church to the abbey, as being the -most important ecclesiastical establishment in the parish. The word -Lindores is believed to mean “the church by the water,” and “Abdie” -refers to the possessions of the early monastic establishment. - -Lindores Abbey was an institution of considerable importance, and was -frequently the temporary residence of royalty. In 1265 it was visited by -Alexander III., and in 1296 by Edward I., when he received the -allegiance of the district. David II. also resided in the abbey. The -unfortunate Duke of Rothesay, who perished at Falkland in 1401, was -buried in the church. - -James, Earl of Douglas and Duke of Turenne, after a lifetime spent in -contending with James II. and III., retired to the Abbey of Lindores, -where he passed the last five years of his life, and declined to be -drawn from its seclusion either by James III. or his rebellious nobles, -who both applied to him for his assistance. He died in 1488. - -Towards the end of the fifteenth century the possessions of the -monastery were felt to be in a precarious state, and tacks of the abbey -lands were granted to laymen who could defend them. In 1543 the populace -of Dundee made a destructive attack on the houses of the Black and Grey -Friars in that town, and afterwards assailed the Abbey of Lindores, from -which they ejected the monks and destroyed the furnishings and -ornaments. - -The abbey afterwards passed into the hands of commendators, till, in -1600, Patrick Leslie of Pitcairlie was created Lord Lindores, and -endowed with the estates. - -The buildings appear to have been allowed to go to ruin, and to have -been gradually removed by the inhabitants for building materials. Mr. -Laing gives instances to show that the ruins were regarded as a common - -[Illustration: - -A. Presbytery. -B. Crossing. -C. Nave. -D. North Transept. -E. South Transept. -F. Slype or Sacristy. -G. Chapter House. -H. Stair. -J. Fratry. -K. Tower. -L. Cloister Garth. -M. M. Western Side of Cloister -N. N. Enclosing Wall. - -FIG. 622.--Lindores Abbey. Plan.] - -quarry, from which the public were accustomed to remove what they -pleased. The whole place, early in this century, is described as heaped -up with ruins and rubbish, so that even the ground plan could not be -made out, and the abbey was known in the locality as the “Wilderness.” -“This is now all changed; the rubbish has been cleared away down to the -basement, and the plan of the building is distinctly seen.... About -twenty-five years ago the foundations of a range of pillars, to the -height of several feet, running along the north side of the nave, were -laid bare by the partial removal of the rubbish by which they had been -concealed. They were of the same elegant design as those fragments -which remain; but very shortly after their discovery they were -ruthlessly removed.”[79] - -[Illustration: FIG. 623.--Lindores Abbey. Gateway in Enclosing Wall, -from South-West.] - -The abbey buildings (Fig. 622) consisted originally of a church, having -an aisleless choir about 42 feet long by 24 feet wide; a nave, with -north aisle, 132 feet in length by 40 feet in width; north and south -transepts, measuring from north to south 111 feet, and, including the -eastern aisle, 39 feet 6 inches wide; and a great tower at the -north-west angle of the nave, measuring about 37 feet 9 inches over the -buttresses. - -To the south of the nave lay the cloister garth, with its surrounding -cloister walk, measuring over all 107 feet by 96 feet. The buildings -entering from the east side of the cloister are the best preserved parts -of the structure. Adjoining the south transept is the vaulted slype or -passage leading to the eastward. Next to it is the chapter house, 49 -feet long by 24 feet 3 inches wide; and to the south of the chapter -house is a building 55 feet long by 32 feet wide over the walls, which -was probably the fratry or day-room of the monks. It is provided with -buttresses and windows on the east side. At the north end of this -apartment was the day staircase to the dormitory. The west and south -sides of the cloistral buildings are now almost reduced to the ruins of -a single wall on each side. Some traces of partition walls and -buttresses may be observed on the west side, but on the south side only -a doorway at the east end can be made out. The refectory doubtless lay, -as usual, on this side. - -[Illustration: FIG. 624.--Lindores Abbey. Piscina in North Transept.] - -The monastery was surrounded by a high wall, of which some portions -still exist. This wall contains a large entrance archway (Fig. 623), -with smaller footway at the south-west angle. - -Of the church little but the foundation and some portions of the walls -survive. The outline of the exterior of the choir, with its buttresses, -can be clearly followed, but the interior has been stripped of its -ashlar work. A recess on the north side doubtless contained a tomb, and -some traces of the sedilia are visible. Two small coffins were found -buried in the choir, which are believed to have contained the remains of -two children of Earl David, the founder. The position of the east aisle -of the transepts can be traced, with its buttresses. The north and south -walls of the choir were carried, without openings, across the ends of -the transept aisle. The wall in the north transept contains a portion of -a double piscina (Fig. 624), one basin being scalloped and the other a -plain circle. Amongst the most interesting parts of the structure are -the foundations and one or two courses of the piers of the crossing. -These are well preserved, and show the first pointed mouldings of the -responds of the piers on three sides (Fig. 625), the mouldings being the -same in the piers of the arches which crossed the choir and transept, -and also in the arches of the transept aisle. They are all of fine first -pointed design. The base of the piers (Fig. 626) is also first pointed. -A doorway from the north-east angle of the cloister enters the church by -the south transept, and not, as usual, by the nave. A considerable part -of the south wall of the nave survives. It has small projections at -intervals along the south face, which probably carried an arcade. Fig. -627 shows the section of the bases of the west end of the church and the -tower. - -[Illustration: FIG. 625.--Lindores Abbey. - -Responds of Piers.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 626.--Lindores Abbey. - -Mouldings of Base of Piers.] - -Another doorway entered the nave from the cloister some distance -westwards from the crossing. The plan and elevation of the portion still -remaining are shown in Figs. 628 and 629. This doorway had, towards the -cloister, two nook shafts, with bold dog-toothed ornaments on the angles -between the shafts, and on the interior sconsion a double beaded -moulding. A third doorway led from the west end of the cloister into the -nave. - -The north aisle of the nave is now scarcely traceable. The walls of the -north-western tower, which occupies a position similar to the tower of -Brechin Cathedral, still stand to a height of about 8 feet. The tower -had large square corner buttresses, and smaller intermediate ones on -each face, with a base consisting of three plain set-offs (see Fig. -627). A wheel stair occupied the buttress at the north-east angle. There -is now no trace of the western doorway of the church, but the base -mouldings are shown in Fig. 627. There is a recess for a stoup in the -south wall near the west doorway. - -[Illustration: Tower. - -Church. - -FIG. 627.--Lindores Abbey. - -Bases at West End of Tower and Church.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 628.--Lindores Abbey. - -Plan of South Doorway of Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 629.--Lindores Abbey. - -Jamb of South Doorway of Nave.] - -As already mentioned, the vaulting of the slype (Fig. 630) is fairly -well preserved. It consisted of two square bays, and had plain splayed -groins springing from corbels, which have all a decidedly first pointed -character. The doorway next the cloister had a pair of nook shafts, and -the east doorway was plain. A stone bench runs along both sides of the -slype. - -The chapter house has had a stone bench running round the walls, and an -arcade all round rested upon it. The shafts and bases can still be -traced. The straight staircase to the south of the chapter house no -doubt led to the dormitory, which would extend over the fratry to the -south as well as the chapter house, A room over the slype may have been -the scriptorium or library. The night passage of the monks to the church -evidently passed through that apartment, as the stair was in the -south-west angle of the transept, and could only be reached in that way. - -[Illustration: FIG. 630.--Lindores Abbey. Interior of Slype.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 631.--Lindores Abbey. Broken Figure lying against -West End.] - -Fig. 631 shows a portion of the carved effigy of a monument which is -preserved amongst the ruins. - - -CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY, STIRLINGSHIRE. - -The ruins of this abbey stand on the banks of the Forth, about a mile -eastward from Stirling. The buildings are almost completely ruined, the -detached tower at the west being almost the only part which remains in -anything like a complete state. The plan of the church and the abbey -buildings can only be conjectured from grass-grown foundations, with -here and there a base course of dressed stone. The west doorway, -however, although in a very mutilated condition, is nearly entire, as -also is a portion of a gable wall and side walls at the extreme -south-east corner of the buildings. All else is in the most fragmentary -condition. The ground on which the church and cloister were erected is -level, but to the east it slopes downward to the river, as indicated on -the Plan (Fig. 632). - -[Illustration: FIG. 632.--Cambuskenneth Abbey. Plan.] - -Till 1864 the whole site was covered with grassy mounds of earth, which -indicated where buildings had formerly stood. In that year excavations -were made, an account of which, together with a plan of the site by Mr. -Mackison, architect, Stirling, was published.[80] - -The church (see Fig. 632) was cruciform, having a nave, with a north -aisle only; transepts, with eastern aisles; and a short aisleless -presbytery. The length of the nave was about 120 feet, and the width -about 35 feet between the walls. The transepts were about 70 feet long -from north to south by about 38 feet in width within the walls, and the -total internal length of the church was about 190 feet. The whole -structure was of one period, being entirely of first pointed or -thirteenth century work; so much at least can be surmised from the Plan -and from the west doorway (Fig. 633). The doorway projects about 9 -inches from the face of the wall, and in the ingoing had five shafts in -each jamb, all detached except one, and there was also a shaft in the -outer angles of the projection in front of the west wall. In the nooks -between the shafts there are smaller beads or shafts, all treated with -separate caps. On either side of the outer shafts the dog-tooth ornament -occurs. The jamb mouldings are much better preserved than those of the -arch, the former having been buried in the ruins for centuries, while -the latter, being within the reach of mischievous hands, have been very -much defaced. An idea of the character of the mouldings will be obtained -from the enlarged section (see Fig. 633); there was only one enrichment, -and that was the dog-tooth. It will be observed that the inner moulding -of the arch does not come to a point, but has a kind of flat keystone -introduced, although the outer mouldings appear to have met in the usual -way. A few bases of the shafts of a wall arcade remain against the south -wall of the nave. An angle buttress at the north-east corner of the -transept indicates later work, probably inserted here owing to the -failure of the original buttresses, which are flat, and have little -projection to support the vaulting. - -The cloister, which lay on the south side of the church, was about 80 -feet square. On the east side of the cloister, in a line with the south -transept, there occurred first the slype and then the chapter house. The -latter was a small apartment of about 21 feet square, which was, as -usual, vaulted, and had an octagonal centre pillar. - -A long, narrow building, which was doubtless the refectory, occupied the -south side of the cloister. It measured about 70 feet long by 25 feet -wide. To the east of this there are situated a cottage and an outhouse; -the latter is certainly quite modern, and the cottage may have been a -part of the monastery. - -About 180 feet east from the chapter house a long range of buildings -extended for upwards of 250 feet in a north and south direction; but as -these are fragmentary, and as the detached buildings of a monastery were -not conformable to a general plan, it is needless to attempt to define -these further than to point out that the upper story of the south-east -building was a dovecot, the walls of which are entire to a height of -about 20 feet. The range of buildings, of which the dovecot forms the -end next the river, extends, in its present condition, for about 120 -feet westwards. - -[Illustration: FIG. 633.--Cambuskenneth Abbey. West Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 634.--Cambuskenneth Abbey. The Tower from -South-East.] - -The tower (Fig. 634), which is the best preserved portion of the -monastery, stands near the north-west angle of the church, but is -detached from it. The abbey being situated on the extensive plain known -as the Carse of Stirling, probably after the Reformation the tower was -found to be useful as a place of outlook over the level country around, -and also, perhaps, as a place of security. The monastery was difficult -of access, being almost surrounded by the river Forth, which winds here -in a remarkable manner. It is, therefore, not unlikely that for the -above reasons the tower has been preserved entire. It measures rather -more than 30 feet square, with walls about 6 feet thick. It is groin -vaulted on the ground floor, and has an octagonal turret stair leading -to the top. From old plates it appears to have been finished on the top -with the usual cape house and chimneys. The existence of fireplaces -indicates, as above suggested, that the tower was taken possession of as -a watch tower or castle, and was thus preserved. It is peculiar in being -detached from the church, from which it is separated about 20 feet. The -entrance to the tower (see Fig. 634) is by a narrow doorway in the south -front. It has a slightly projecting porch with a high gablet, containing -a niche, and is surmounted by a buttress. There are indications of -buildings having been attached to the tower on the east side, but they -have been of later construction than the tower, and were probably -outhouses, such as are frequently found in connection with the pele -towers. The finishing of the upper part of the parapet is modern. The -tower is four stories in height, and is of good simple design in the -later first pointed style. - -The abbey was founded by King David I., with the consent of his eldest -son, Prince Henry. The foundation charter is without date, but it -probably belongs to the year 1147.[81] It appears to have been the -original intention to call the abbey by the name of St. Mary, Stirling, -as in the first charter it is by this name that the lands and fishings -of Cambuskenneth are granted, and in all the early charters during the -time of the first three abbots it is so designated. In 1201, as appears -from two bulls by Pope Innocent III., the name was changed to St. Mary, -Cambuskenneth. - -The abbey was a house of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine, brought -from Aroise Abbey, in the French province of Artois. The monastery was -richly endowed. In 1445 the establishment consisted of the abbot, the -prior, and seventeen monks. Many of the abbots were distinguished men, -and were much employed as statesmen and Ambassadors. - -About one hundred years after the above date of 1201 the abbey was in a -distressful condition, owing to losses which it had suffered “by the -wars which had for a long time raged in those parts, and by the conduct -of certain sons of iniquity, who had seized and carried off the -chalices, books, and the rest of the ornaments of the altar and other -goods belonging to the abbey, and through the destruction of the bell -tower by lightning, which had so reduced their circumstances that they -were totally unable to repair the choir of the abbey, which was going to -ruin.”[82] The abbot and convent appealed to Clement V., and, by a bull -dated 15th September 1306, he conferred on the convent, by way of -compensation, the perpetual vicarage of the Parish Church of -Clackmannan. Probably it is to about this time that we may assign the -erection of the tower, and that it should be constructed so as to form a -place of strength, as suggested above, seems natural from the foregoing -narrative. - -During the time of Abbot Mylne (1517-48) the great altar and chapter -house were rebuilt, and two new cemeteries were formed. These were -consecrated and dedicated, on 11th July 1521, by James, Bishop of -Dunblane. Regarding the existence of a previous chapter house there is -ample evidence, but the circumstances which required a new one to be -built are not known. - -During the time of Adam Erskine as commendator (1562-1608), his chief, -John, Earl of Mar, Lord Erskine, built his palace in the High Street of -Stirling, and the tradition is that he used the carved stones of the -abbey for this purpose. There is no evidence in support of this, and we -do not think there is anything in the circumstances to confirm it. We -have already referred to the matter at some length.[83] - -The Abbey of Cambuskenneth figured prominently in many events of -national importance. James III. and his queen, Margaret of Denmark, were -here interred before the high altar, and their remains were found in the -excavations of 1864, and were reinterred, a stone altar-monument being -erected over them by Queen Victoria. - - -CULROSS ABBEY, PERTHSHIRE. - -The lofty tower of this venerable abbey stands out prominently on the -top of the wooded bank of the Forth, about eight miles below Alloa and -six miles from Dunfermline. It is situated in a detached portion of -Perthshire. - -The small, but ancient, town of Culross, which owes its origin to the -abbey, clusters below it on the slope of the hill, and along its base at -the river side. - -In the seventeenth century the town took a great development, owing to -the collieries and other industries established by Sir George Bruce, and -the harbour was crowded with shipping. But during the present century -this commercial activity has entirely disappeared, and the little town -has relapsed into a quiet, old-fashioned place, still, however, full of -interest and picturesqueness. Amongst its ancient buildings are the -“Study,” the Tolbooth, and the “Palace,” which have been described in -the _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. II. p. -432, and Vol. V. pp. 25 and 119. - -The town is also prolific in ecclesiastical structures, of which the -remains of no less than three still exist. The principal of these is the -abbey. The others consist of the ruins of the ancient parish church, -situated about a mile to the west, and the remnants of the Church of St. -Mungo, which lie at the base of the slope a short way to the east of the -town. - -The abbey was founded, in 1217, by Malcolm, third Earl of Fife. Almost -nothing is known of its history, but it is believed to occupy the site -hallowed by the memory of St. Mungo and his reputed preceptor, St. Serf -or Servanus. St. Mungo is, by tradition, said to have been born on the -shore of the Forth at this place, whither his mother was miraculously -brought by a storm, and to have been nurtured and trained by St. Serf, -an ancient Celtic ecclesiastic, already settled at Culross. This story, -however, is discarded by Dr. Skene, who maintains that St. Mungo or -Kentigern died in 603, while Servanus did not found the Church of -Culross till the end of the seventh century. - -This ancient foundation was apparently revived by Earl Malcolm, who -introduced a body of Cistercian monks from Kinloss, of which abbey, -Hugh, the first prior, was abbot. - -From the evidence of the architecture it is apparent that the -establishment founded by Earl Malcolm was erected in the thirteenth -century. Considerable remains of that period, and some walls of what -might be regarded as of earlier date, are still traceable; but the -principal parts of the existing church, which has been much altered, are -of considerably later date. - -The plan of the church is peculiar (Fig. 635). Its most conspicuous -feature is the tower, which rises from the ground in the centre of the -building, with four solid walls. To the west of this tower are a few -relics of what appears to have been a separate church, while to the east -of it is a complete church, consisting of the choir, north and south -transepts, and a portion which may be called the nave, running westwards -from the crossing to the tower. - -A few fragments of the old monastic structures also survive. Adjoining -the south transept are parts of two early doorways, and running -southwards from the west end of the west church are the manse (which -comprises old walls) and a large groined hall, which may have formed the -hall of the lay brothers of the convent. A vaulted passage adjoins it, -leading into the manse garden, which evidently occupies the site of the -original cloisters. The church formed the north side of the quadrangle, -while along the south side stretched a series of buildings which, -doubtless, contained the refectory. Owing to the slope of the ground -these erections are supported on vaults, part of which still remains. - -The site of the church is level throughout its whole length on the -north and east, and along the south side of the choir as far as the -tower within the walls shown on Plan. The cloister garth and the -buildings on the west side stand on ground about 10 feet lower, while -along the south side of the cloister the ground suddenly descends about -20 feet. It was thus necessary, beneath the vaulted buildings shown on -the south-west side, to bring up extensive vaulted cellars, which -extended along the south and east sides of the cloister as far as the -chapter house. All these under-buildings are clearly shown by Slezer, -who represents this abbey with some minuteness as it existed in his time -(1693). - -[Illustration: FIG. 635.--Culross Abbey. Plan.] - -Considerable remains of the church and abbey buildings are still -standing, either in a ruinous or greatly altered condition. Extensive -alterations were made on the fabric in the sixteenth and seventeenth -centuries to adapt certain portions of the old buildings to modern -purposes, and the eastern end of the edifice is now used as the parish -church. There have been, as already stated, an east and a west church, -separated from each other by a central tower rising solidly from the -ground. The tower and the east church are still entire, but of the west -church only the south wall and the start of the north wall at the tower -now remain, as shown on Plan. Both churches have been of about the same -dimensions--viz., 78 feet by about 21 feet 6 inches wide, and both are -without aisles. - -The south wall of the west church has some indications of transition -work, the masonry being arranged in the cube courses peculiar to early -work. Towards the west end (in the gable of the manse) there is a round -arched doorway, now built up, but it contains very little indication of -style. This was, doubtless, the usual entrance to the nave from the west -end of the cloister. The south wall is about 7 or 8 feet high from the -level of the nave floor, and more than twice that height from the level -of the cloisters. The windows were above the top of the wall, as is seen -at the east end adjoining the tower, where there exist the springing and -jamb of a window, with continuous mouldings both on the north and south -sides. These are, undoubtedly, fragments of fifteenth or sixteenth -century work. Slezer, in his views, shows a series of six or seven -round-headed windows at above level along the south side of the west -church. It is sometimes conjectured that these may have been Norman, but -certainly the existing jambs of the eastmost windows above referred to -are not so. Slezer, we may remark, is not to be depended on for accuracy -of details. It is said that these windows were taken down for materials -to build dykes with by the late parish minister, Dr. Erskine. - -The position of the west end of this church is a matter of conjecture, -but it is almost certain that the present modern entrance gateway is -built on its site. The projecting part of wall at =X= on Plan has a large -bead on the corner, and it is clearly the corner of the south-west -buttress of the nave, with the base mouldings returned round it. - -The lower story of the tower is much older than the portion above it. -This is evident from the nature of the building, and also from the door -and window openings in it. Entering from the west church, a low doorway, -5 feet wide, leads into the tower; it is late first pointed in detail, -round arched, or very slightly pointed in some of its orders. At each -side of this doorway there are arched openings, which recall the -recesses on each side of the chancel arch at Tynninghame Church. That on -the west side is a low, plain pointed opening, about 3 feet wide, now -built up. Between the centre door and the southmost of these built up -openings there is a pointed stoup, the lower part of which is buried by -a grave mound. Above the doorway, and beneath the sloping marks of the -roof of the west church, a wide semicircular window opens into the -tower--a singular feature not easily understood. The doorways in the -interior of the tower are all of late work--similar to that of the -sixteenth century in Scotland. Fig. 636 shows the upper part of the -interior of the west door. The style of the work is clearly late. The -initials A. M. may stand for the name of Mallet, as there seem to be -three mallets on the shield. - -[Illustration: FIG. 636.--Culross Abbey. Interior of Doorway of Tower.] - -The tower (Fig. 637) measures 84 feet high to the top of the parapet; it -has been operated on at various times. The projecting round -staircase-turret is an addition of, perhaps, the fifteenth century; the -lower part of the tower, as is evident from the west doorway, is -probably of the thirteenth century. It is groin vaulted at the first -story, as shown on Plan. This vault, and all above, are of sixteenth -century work, with the exception of the upper part above the cornice, -which dates from this century. The old finishing of the tower is shown -by Slezer to have been carried out with a cape house and bartisan like -the pele towers, or as shown at the churches of Torphichen, Dysart, and -Dundee. - -[Illustration: FIG. 637.--Culross Abbey. Tower from North-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 638.--Culross Abbey. View from South-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 639.--Culross Abbey. North Transept.] - -The doorway from the tower to the east church and the passage leading to -the chapel, which stood on the east side of the transept, are late -Gothic. The east church, as already stated, is a complete cruciform -structure, having choir, transepts, and nave in itself. The north -transept (see Fig. 637) was built, in 1640, by George Bruce of Carnock, -it is surmised, on older foundations. The south transept is, generally -speaking, old; it had an east aisle, opening by two arches from the -transept and one arch from the choir. This aisle is now removed, and the -arches are built up, but their outlines are visible from the exterior -(Fig. 638). This aisle is shown by Slezer with a lean-to roof against -the transept. In the corresponding position on the north side there -appears to have been a similar aisle; part of its east wall still exists -(Fig. 639), with an early two-light window, and the remains of what -appears to have been a canopied tomb, although Mr. Beveridge[84] -regards it as being the doorway to the north aisle. Built against the -wall, in an upright position, is the recumbent figure probably belonging -to this tomb. - -All the original windows of the east church, which were large and -important, have been built up during this century, and smaller windows -of a debased type inserted, with the exception of the east window (see -Fig. 638), which is original, and is of good design; but even this is -lost to the interior, being partitioned off in order to allow a gallery -stair to pass it. - -A part of the west wall of a chapel, which formerly existed to the north -of the tower, is indicated by the jamb and springing of a window. A -sketch section of its mouldings is given in Fig. 640, as also a section -of the mouldings of the door to the turret, which entered from this -chapel. These mouldings are evidently not earlier than late fourteenth -century work. There are two seventeenth century burial vaults adjoining -the north transept. In the larger of these is the fine monument to Sir -Robert Bruce of Carnock, illustrated in _The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. V. p. 207. - -[Illustration: FIG. 640.--Culross Abbey. - -Sections of Mouldings of Chapel Window and Turret Door.] - -Adjoining the south transept on the south is the sacristy, now converted -into a vestry, and hardly to be recognised as old, owing to alterations. -The shape and position of this apartment clearly indicate its original -use; it had the usual east window, now built up, and has otherwise been -altered. - -To the south of the sacristy was the chapter house, which also occupied -its normal position. Just enough remains to enable it to be identified, -viz., the northmost of the usual three west openings to the cloister -(Fig. 641), with the jamb and springing of the central opening, or as -much of it as can be seen for the modern walls that are built up against -it. This fragment, even in its mutilated state, is a fine example of -first pointed work. The inner order of the arch mouldings has fallen -away, and otherwise the work has been greatly destroyed, its beauty not -having been appreciated. The shafts and arch mouldings (Fig. 642) are -all of very bold and pure design. The caps and bases are rounded, and -the hood mould, which was also a string course, is ornamented with the -dog-tooth. The chapter house had two rows of columns, as is evident from -the remains of the springing of the first arch from between the two -existing openings as shown in Fig. 641 and the Plan (Fig. 642). It was -usual for the two side openings to be unglazed windows rather than -doors, but - -[Illustration: FIG. 641.--Culross Abbey. Opening to Chapter House.] - -Mr. Sharp, in his paper on “The Architecture of the Cistercians,”[85] -points out that it was common for the three openings to be doorways, -with the peculiarity seen here that they were not intended to have -doors. - -[Illustration: FIG. 642.--Culross Abbey. Door to Chapter House.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 643.--Culross Abbey. Entrance to West Side of -Cloister.] - -Of the western alley of the cloister there are considerable remains. The -manse, adjoining the nave, appears to include a part of the original -buildings. It is dated on the Plan “1647,” that figure being carved on a -dormer; but portions of the walls are undoubtedly older, and possibly a -thorough examination might reveal ancient features. To the south of the -manse is the vaulted entrance to the cloister (Fig. 643), and further -southward the truncated remains of the building shown in Fig. 644. The -latter enters from the exterior by a narrow door, having a stair in the -thickness of the wall adjoining leading to the upper floor. As already -mentioned, there are extensive cellars beneath. This range of buildings -was what Mr. Sharp calls the Domus Conversorum,[86] or the place for the -workmen and servants of the monastery, which contained their day room on -the ground floor and dormitory above. - -[Illustration: FIG. 644.--Culross Abbey. Chamber on West Side of -Cloister.] - -About a quarter of a mile north from the abbey there exist the remains -of a lodge, with indications of an arched “pend.” The lodge is still in -use, but quite modernised. This archway was probably an entrance to the -grounds of the abbey. - -The most remarkable feature of the edifice is the tower which divides -the east church from the west. From its architecture we may at once -conclude that the upper portion is a structure of late date, probably of -the sixteenth century. The interior doorway (see Fig. 636) is clearly of -about that period, but some of the features of the lower story seem, as -above mentioned, to point to that part being of an earlier time, -probably thirteenth century. - -The puzzle here is to understand how this solid tower should have been -set down in the centre of the church, thus completely cutting off the -western portion from the eastern, and forming two separate churches. Two -possible solutions of this difficulty present themselves. - -1. The two churches may have been intentionally kept separate, the -western portion being the parish church and the eastern that of the -monks. Such an arrangement is unusual in Scotland, but Mr. Freeman has -described several churches in England where one portion belonged to the -parishioners and the remainder to the monks. The chief difficulty -connected with this theory is that the parish of Culross (as above -mentioned) was provided with a separate parish church at a little -distance away.[87] - -2. The second supposition is that, in course of time, the monastery may -have dwindled, and the buildings may have fallen into disrepair. The -question would then arise whether it would not be better to diminish the -size of the church by abandoning the western portion and erecting the -tower where it stands. This might have occurred towards the close of the -fifteenth century. But there are difficulties connected with this -solution of the problem also. The tower shows the springing and jambs of -windows on its west side, which appear to be of about the same date as -itself, thus indicating the intention of continuing the structure -westwards and restoring the old west church. - - -THE OLD PARISH CHURCH OF CULROSS, PERTHSHIRE. - -A ruinous structure, situated about one mile north-west from the abbey. -It is a plain oblong (Fig. 645), 71 feet long by 16 feet wide (inside), -with walls about 3 feet thick, but parts of them have been recently -rebuilt on the old foundations. It is thus impossible to say what the -original arrangement of doors and windows may have been, only one small -pointed window, which seems to be original, remaining next the south -doorway. A north and south doorway face one another towards the west -end, but these have evidently been inserted at a late date. Both -doorways have straight lintels (Fig. 646), and these consist of ancient -tombstones, carved with foliaged crosses and swords (Fig. 647). - -[Illustration: FIG. 645.--The Old Parish Church of Culross. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 646.--The Old Parish Church of Culross. Interior, -looking East.] - -Numerous other recumbent tombstones are found in the church, and some -have been placed against the east wall when it was rebuilt. A top stone -containing the socket for a cross is preserved at the east end. The -south doorway has probably had a porch. - -This church had apparently fallen into decay before the Reformation, for -in 1633 an Act was passed making the abbey the parish church, and -stating that the abbey church had been used for preaching since the -Reformation, and that the church called the “Parioche Kirk, where -service is not nor has been since the memory of man, is altogether -ruinous, decayed, and fallen down in certain parts.” - -It is still surrounded with the old burying-ground, which contains some -interesting monuments. A large tombhouse has been built, like a -transept, on the south side of the church. It appears to be an erection -of the seventeenth century. - -[Illustration: FIG. 647. - -The Old Parish Church of Culross. Tombstones used as Door Lintels.] - - -BEAULY PRIORY, INVERNESS-SHIRE. - -This monastery was pleasantly situated on the north side of the river -Beauly, not far from the point where it falls into the sea at the head -of the Beauly Frith, which forms the inner portion of the Moray Frith. -The land is level and fertile, and the scenery on the river is very -beautiful. The priory is about ten miles west from Inverness, and about -one mile from Beauly Railway Station. It is believed to have been -founded in 1230, and was thereafter endowed by Sir John Bisset of -Lovat.[88] The priory was dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and was -occupied by seven French monks of the Order of Valliscaulium. This was -one of the strict orders established at the time of the revival of -religion in the twelfth century. The mother house of the order was at -Langres, in Burgundy. Of this order there were only three priories in -Scotland: one at Pluscarden, in Morayshire; one at Ardchattan, in -Argyle; and one at Beauly. The monks were austere in their lives, and -formed a centre of devotion and enlightenment in the midst of these wild -and uncivilised districts. The charter of the foundation was confirmed -by Pope Gregory XI. in 1231. The priory was probably erected during the -thirteenth century, but its records are few for a long period. - -The Frasers succeeded the Bysets in the lands surrounding the priory, -and Hugh Fraser, who was first Lord of Lovat, died in 1398. His son, -Alexander, was a great benefactor of the priory, and is said to have -erected a beautiful steeple of carved oak on the west gable, and put -curious bells therein. - -Hugh Fraser (about 1430-40) afforded means for building the north work -of the priory and the chapel of the Holy Cross. - -The church was soon after repaired at the expense of the superior, a -natural son of Alexander of Kintail, who was there buried, A.D. 1479. -His tomb is opposite that of his brother, Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of -Kintail, with the date 1491. Sir Kenneth was the first of his family who -was buried at Beauly, having married a daughter of Lord Lovat and -obtained the Beauly property. - -In 1530 Abbot Robert Reid of Kinloss received a gift of the Abbey of -Beauly _in commendam_.[89] It is recorded by Ferrerius that many new -buildings were erected and old ones repaired by this abbot. He is stated -to have collected materials in 1537 and to have rebuilt the nave in -1540, and the structure bears evidence of his operations. He also -restored the bell tower, which had been destroyed by lightning; but in -1541 that work was demolished, and the bells destroyed by a violent -storm, which also did much damage throughout the country. - -In 1544 Bishop Reid (being now promoted to the See of Orkney) removed -the ruinous house of the prior, and erected a new and spacious house, -with six vaults on the basement; but of this structure there is now no -trace. - -Robert Reid was succeeded, as commendator, by his nephew, Walter Reid, -who was also his successor in the abbacy of Kinloss. The possessions of -the Priory of Beauly were alienated, in 1571, by Walter, the new -commendator, as were also those of Kinloss. The lands thus became the -property of the Lovat family. On the forfeiture of Lord Lovat, in 1516, -the abbey reverted to the Crown. - -The priory consisted of the church, with a cloister to the south, which -was, in all probability, surrounded by the usual monastic buildings; but -the latter, including the spacious prior’s house erected by Bishop Reid, -have almost entirely disappeared. The walls of the church (Fig. 648) -survive, but even these have been sadly abused. The buttresses have all -been torn down, apparently for the sake of the freestone dressings, and -the tracery of the windows has been greatly demolished. - -The church consists of a single long aisleless chamber, a little over -150 feet in length by 24 feet 6 inches in width (within the walls). The -eastern part formed the presbytery and choir, and the western part the -nave, but there is no architectural feature to mark the divisions. About -the place where a transept might have been there are two projections, -which break the long line of the exterior. These projecting chambers or -chapels are shut off from the main church by solid walls containing -doorways and monuments. They thus formed separate chapels, or one of -them may have been a sacristy. The architecture of the choir and -presbytery (Fig. 649) is remarkably fine, and is of first pointed -character. Although in this remote region its date may probably be later -than usual, it can scarcely be, as Mr. Muir suggests, so late as the -beginning of the fourteenth century. - -The details are very simple, the jambs and arches having plain splays. -The caps of the shafts adjoining the windows in the interior are moulded -and have round abaci, but the shafts, which were detached in the early -manner, have disappeared. The arrangement of the arches is different on -the two opposite sides. The east window was very wide, and, doubtless, -was filled with tracery, which had several mullions. This may have been -a later addition; the tracery has entirely disappeared. The lower -portions of the buttresses of the choir have been rebuilt within recent -years, probably in consequence of an agreement entered into between Lord -Lovat and the Crown, whereby the former undertakes to keep the buildings -in good repair. - -[Illustration: FIG. 648.--Beauly Priory. Plan.] - -The most striking feature of the nave is the row of triangular pointed -windows running along the south side (Fig. 650). These have evidently -been curtailed in height in the design, so as to admit of the roof of -the cloister walk resting against the south wall of the church, the -corbels for its support being yet visible. The west end of this wall has -evidently had domestic buildings of a high and substantial character -erected against it, some fragments of which still remain, showing a -fireplace, portions of a staircase, &c. (see Fig. 650). - -[Illustration: FIG. 649.--Beauly Priory. Choir, looking East.] - -The western façade bears the marks of Bishop Reid’s workmanship, and is -no doubt part of what is meant to be attributed to him when it is said -that he rebuilt the nave. The triangular south windows above mentioned, -and the two light pointed windows on the south side of the nave, are -undoubtedly much earlier than his date, which was about 1540-50, but -other parts of the walls of the nave may have been re-erected by him -when he restored the west end. The latter (see Fig. 650) is beyond doubt -his work. The doorway in the centre, the arch of which is semicircular, -contains the monogram I.H.S. on one of the label terminations, while the -other drip stone shows two hands and two feet, with a heart in the -centre (Fig. 651), emblems of the Passion. The arch of the doorway is -round; but this, as we have seen elsewhere, is a common feature in -Scottish work of all dates, and occurs especially often in late work. - -The upper part of the west wall contains three pointed lancet windows, -and is an example of the revival of early features in late work. Some -of the windows in the side walls are of similar form, and are probably -of the same date. The sill of the central window in the west end is kept -high, so as to admit of a shallow ogee-headed niche for a figure over -the entrance door. The figure may have represented the Baptist, but the -niche is now empty. On a panel on the sill are Bishop Reid’s initials, -R. R., and his arms, a stag’s head (see Fig. 651). - -[Illustration: FIG. 650.--Beauly Priory. Nave from South-West.] - -The part of the church which projects to the north measures 25 feet by -22 feet 6 inches internally. It has been vaulted in two bays, the vaults -springing from corbels in the walls; part of the vault still remains. -This chamber is said to have been the sacristy. It has a turret at the -north-west angle, containing a stair to the roof. In a recess in the -wall which divides this chapel from the choir lies the tomb -(abovementioned) of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of Kintail. - -We have seen that the “north work” was erected at the expense of Hugh -Fraser (1430-40), and the style of this chapel corresponds with that -date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 651.--Beauly Priory.] - -Drip Stone and Panel. - -The repairs carried out by Prior Alexander were probably the work -required for the erection of the tomb of Sir Kenneth and his own tomb, -which was in a recess in the choir on the opposite side of the wall from -that of Sir Kenneth. - -[Illustration: FIG. 652.--Beauly Priory. Tomb of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie.] - -The tomb of Sir Kenneth (Fig. 652) is a good specimen of the work of the -period, and is very similar to other tombs of the same kind at Fortrose -and Fearn. The recumbent figure, clad in full armour, rests on an -arcaded tomb or pedestal, and the recess, which is covered with a -pointed canopy, is enriched with a crocketed label and pinnacle bearing -a shield, and the whole tomb is flanked by two thin buttresses. On the -sill is engraved the following inscription:--“Hic Jacet Kanyens M. -Kynych d’us de Kyntayl. q. obiit dii Februarii A. Di M.CCCC.LXXXXI.” - -The chamber to the south of the choir has also contained monuments, but -they are now destroyed. It measures 22 feet by 17 feet internally, and -seems to have been connected by a door with the conventual buildings to -the south. It has contained two stories, the upper story forming a -gallery, connected with the church by a wide arch (see Fig. 649). - -The choir contains a double piscina, near the east end, in a good first -pointed style. - -Under the triangular windows in the south wall of the nave are a piscina -and ambry. These mark the position of an altar, which may have been -erected at the rood screen, which probably separated the nave from the -choir at this point, thus dividing the portion of the church open to the -parishioners from that reserved for the clerics. Opposite this piscina -there is a door (now built up) in the north wall, and near it, on the -outside, there is another piscina. This may possibly mark the position -of another chapel, which may have been that of the Holy Cross above, -said to have been erected by Hugh Fraser in the fifteenth century. - - -NEWBATTLE OR NEWBOTLE ABBEY,[90] MID-LOTHIAN. - -Newbotle Abbey or, as it is now called (without the name having any -special meaning), Newbattle Abbey is situated on the river Esk, about -two miles south from Dalkeith. It was founded by David I. in the year -1140, for monks of the Cistercian order, who were brought to Newbotle -(or new residence) from Melrose. The “leader of the colony” appears to -have been Ralph, the first abbot, who obtained numerous gifts and -privileges for the convent, and consecrated a “cemetery within the -precinct of the monastery.” The second abbot, Alfred, who died in 1179, -was also a great benefactor to the abbey. He brought to it many relics, -which he enclosed in a silver chest. “He adorned the chapter house with -handsome seats, and also erected proper stalls, with convenient desks or -_menologies_ of wood, in the cloisters on the side where the ‘collation’ -or reading of the lives of the saints was held, for the use of the -brethren during the reading of collation before compline at the washing -of feet at Maunday.”[91] - -During the time of the tenth abbot, Constantine, the church was -dedicated by Andrew de Moravia, Bishop of Moray, in March 1233. - -In the year 1241, Mary de Couci, queen of Alexander II., “looking to her -time of peril, and impressed with the frail tenure of life, bequeathed -her body to be buried in the church of Newbotle.”[92] This would seem -to indicate that the fabric of the church, if not finished by this -time, was far advanced. Mary de Couci survived for about thirty years, -when her desire to be buried here was carried out; and Father Hay -describes her tomb, apparently from the record of an eye-witness. “In -the midst of the church was seen the tomb of the queen of King -Alexander, of marble, supported on six lions of marble. A human figure -was placed reclining on the tomb, surrounded with an iron grating.”[93] - -In 1275 Waldeve, the seventeenth abbot, “going the way of all flesh, -with blessed end, departed to the Lord, leaving his house in full peace -and excellent condition.” - -Gervase, the nineteenth abbot, who demitted office in 1323, settled for -ever on the infirmary of the abbey an annual rent of three merks, “to be -expended for the uses of the sick and the recreation of the feeble.”[94] -These few notices seem to show that about the middle of the fourteenth -century the abbey was in a fairly complete state. It possessed great -estates in the counties of the Lothians, Lanark, Peebles, and Stirling. -Father Hay writes that, about this time, he “finds, from the books of -receipts and expenses, the annual income of the monastery could maintain -eighty monks and seventy lay brethren, with the corresponding -establishment.”[95] - -But evil days were at hand. In 1385, during the expedition of Richard -II., “the English,” writes Father Hay, “burnt the monastery of Newbotle; -and, at the same time, several of the granges and farms of the monastery -were destroyed, and the others were deserted, while the lands were left -untilled. The towers or peles, built by the monastery for protection -against English marauders, fared in the same way. Some of the monks were -carried away prisoners; others fled to other monasteries. The few who -remained in the abbey, having scarce sufficient food, were compelled, by -great distress, to sell twenty-nine excellent chalices, nine crosses of -exquisite workmanship, and other sacred ornaments, with their silver -household plate. At that time the greater part of the abbey tower was -ruined by the falling of the cross.” These events happened during the -time of Hugh, the twenty-third abbot. - -The work of restoration was, doubtless, gone on with as soon as -convenient; and, in 1390, Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith, by his will, -gave his body to be buried in the monastery of St. Mary of Newbotle. “At -the same time he bequeathed to the abbey a ‘nowche,’ or jewel of St. -John, worth 40 merks, or its value, and, in addition, £23, 6s. 8d. for -the building of the church and wages of the masons employed upon it. For -the service of the monks’ refectory he gave twelve silver dishes, -weighing eighteen pounds, six shillings sterling, enjoining his heirs -to see that they should not be abstracted from the use of the refectory -or sold.”[96] Two years later Sir James, in another will, bequeaths -similar sums to the abbey, without appropriating a part to the building -or to the payment of workmen, which seems to show, as Mr. Innes remarks, -that the rebuilding of the abbey church had been completed in the -meantime. - -In 1419 Edward of Crechton paid a sum for the restoring and building of -the monastery. - -In the Hertford expedition of 1544, “upon the 15th day of May the -horsmen raid to Newbottill and brynt it.”[97] As is remarked by Mr. -Innes,[98] this was, perhaps, but a partial destruction, as, three years -afterwards, Mary of Lorraine held at Newbotle a great convention of the -lords of her party, preparatory to declaring war with England. - -The last so-called abbot was Mark Ker. He is styled Commendator of -Newbotle in 1560; and the lordship of Newbotle, being conferred on his -son, has remained with their descendants to the present day. - -Such is the scanty history of this great abbey, so far as relates to the -structure and ornaments; but of the former almost nothing remains above -ground except part of the monastic buildings on the east side of the -cloisters. - -The abbey, including the church, appears to have been almost completely -demolished shortly after the Reformation, the only parts of the monastic -buildings allowed to remain being the fratry and portions of the -chapter house, which were incorporated with the mansion house, and of -the former of which a view has already been given.[99] - -The accompanying Plan (Fig. 653) has been prepared by Mr. John Ramsay, -the resident Clerk of Works to the Marquis of Lothian, showing the -result of considerable excavations recently carried out at the building, -together with some details which have been discovered. The Plan shows -that the buildings extended about 400 feet from north to south by about -270 feet from east to west, and that the monastery was of the usual -plan. - -The recent excavations deal chiefly with the foundations of the abbey -and church, although explorations within the mansion have also brought -to light some old work hitherto concealed from view. The first discovery -of the existence of buried portions of the abbey was made in 1878, when -some works were in progress; and again, in 1892, - -[Illustration: - -A. Presbytery. -B. Crossing. -C. Nave. -D. North Transept. -E. South Transept. -F. Slype or Sacristy. -G. Chapter House. -H. Fratry. -I. Large Hall. -J. Necessaria. -K. Kitchen. -L. Refectory. -M. Passage with Stair. -N. Cellars. -O. Entrance to Cloister. -P. Perhaps Porter’s Room. -Q. Cellars or Workshops. -R. Necessaria of the Conversi. -S. S. Arched Culverts, separated by a Wall. -T. South Boundary Wall. - -FIG. 653.--Newbattle Abbey. Plan.] - -when digging was going on connected with the planting of trees, some -further remains were found. But in 1893-4 a systematic search was made, -both above and below ground, which enabled an almost complete Plan of -the abbey to be accurately measured and laid down.[100] - -[Illustration: FIG. 654.--Newbattle Abbey. Bases in West Side of -Cloister (at =Q=).] - -The total length of the abbey church, within the walls, was 239 feet 3 -inches, and on the exterior 253 feet 3 inches; while the interior width -was 57 feet 1 inch, and the exterior width (excluding the buttresses) -was 66 feet 7 inches. The nave, which contained ten bays, had a length -of 161 feet 6 inches, and its central aisle a width of 31 feet, while -the side aisles were 13 feet. The choir and presbytery comprised one bay -and a-half, and had two large piers, each 10 feet in diameter. The -crossing had four similar large piers, and measured 41 feet 9 inches -over the piers. The piers supported a tower over the crossing. The -transept was 117 feet 6 inches in length from north to south, and had an -eastern aisle, making the width 45 feet. The north transept had enormous -angle buttresses and a square pier. The large piers and flat angle -buttresses of the choir indicate early work, probably Norman. - -The great angle buttresses at the north transepts belong, doubtless, to -a late period. The Plan clearly shows that they have been added to -existing flat buttresses, in the same manner as was done at the east -wall of St. Andrews Cathedral. Unfortunately, no details have been -discovered to enable the date to be more definitely fixed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 655.--Newbattle Abbey. Font.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 656.--Newbattle Abbey. Seated Figure of -Ecclesiastic.] - -The east side of the cloister, which is included in the modern mansion, -extends southwards from the church for a distance of about 200 feet. -Adjoining the transept has been the slype or sacristy; then comes the -chapter house, of which only the bases of a double row of pillars -remain. It was about 35 feet long by 27 feet wide, and projected towards -the east; but the east end, being under the mansion, cannot be explored. -The buildings adjoining to the south are well preserved on the ground -floor. They are erroneously designated the crypts, as they are entirely -above ground. The long range, with central pillars, was the fratry, -beyond which was a large hall. On the south side of the cloister there -was a passage and a well-preserved kitchen, with a large fireplace, -measuring 12 feet 6 inches by 6 feet, and having still traces of smoke. -Adjoining it, to the west, are the foundations of the refectory, 106 -feet long by 33 feet 6 inches wide. It will be observed that, as usual -in Scotland, the refectory is parallel with the church. On the west side -of the cloister the foundations of several buildings have been laid -bare. Next the nave there has been a passage containing a staircase to -the dormitory of the conversi; then came a large apartment, 67 feet -long by 28 feet 6 inches wide; then the entrance passage to the -cloister, 6 feet 2 inches wide, with a doorway 4 feet 9 inches wide. To -the south of this is another large apartment, 68 feet long by 23 feet 9 -inches wide, having foundations of a central row of pillars, the bases -of which are all different (Fig. 654). Still farther south are found -remains of a large arched conduit or drain, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and -the same height. - -In the vaulted fratry there stands an old font (Fig. 655), which was -found at Mavisbank House, some miles distant, about the year 1873, by -workmen when digging for foundations of proposed new buildings. On the -supposition that it contained the arms of Abbot Hasmall, and therefore -belonged to Newbattle, it was brought here. It is interesting as being -evidently intended, from the coats of arms with which it is adorned, to -be a memorial of the royal family during the first half of the sixteenth -century. The arms it contains are:-- - - 1st Shield.--Arms of Ramsay. - - 2nd Shield.--Arms of Margaret of England (daughter of Henry VII.), - wife of James IV. - - 3rd Shield.--Arms of Magdalene of France (daughter of Francis I.), - first wife of James V. - - 4th Shield.--Arms of Scotland (James V.) - - 5th Shield.--Arms of Marie of Lorraine (daughter of Claude, Duke of - Guise), second wife of James V. - - 6th Shield.--Supposed to be the arms of James Hasmall, Abbot of - Newbotle (1542-1554).[101] - - 7th and 8th Shields.--Blank. - -Only the bowl of the font is old. It is octagonal, and measures about 2 -feet 6½ inches in width and 12½ inches across each face. The height of -the bowl is 1 foot 7½ inches, and the depth 13½ inches, with a square -hole at bottom. - -There is also preserved at Newbattle the seated figure of an -ecclesiastic, holding a book on his knee (Fig. 656). It is probably a -work of the fourteenth or fifteenth century, as in the earlier years of -Cistercian rule figure representations were prohibited; and the little -rosette ornament seen on the sedilia indicates that period. The head is -unfortunately broken, but the figure otherwise is beautifully preserved. -The total - -[Illustration: FIG. 657.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Mouldings.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 658.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Doorway, &c.] - -height of the fragment is about 27¼ inches, and the breadth about 15 -inches, with a relief of about 5 inches. - -[Illustration: FIG. 659.--Newbattle Abbey. Mouldings of Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 660.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Mouldings.] - -A number of stones containing mouldings have been found, some of the -sections of which are shown. Some of the mouldings (as in Figs. 657, -658, and 659) are early, while the other mouldings (as in Figs. 660, -661, and 662) are for the most part late. It is not known to what parts -of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 661.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Mouldings.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 662.--Newbattle Abbey. - -Vaulting Ribs.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 663.--Newbattle Abbey. - -Cap and Base of Doorway.] - -building any of these details belonged, except in the case of Fig. 659, -which is from the doorway at the west end of the refectory. The door -entered from the western cloister walk, and is partly _in situ_. Fig. -663 represents a cap and base supposed to belong to the nave arcade, -from their having been found in the nave. - -Fig. 660 gives a series of arch mouldings, one of them being a window, -with its mullion. The door jamb, with its base mouldings (Fig. 661), is -probably a fifteenth or sixteenth century piece of work. - -[Illustration: FIG. 664.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Tiles. - -A. An Olive-Green Ground, White Pattern. - -B. A Red Pattern on a White Ground. - -The different colours are done in the surface glazing. It is put on -about ⅛ inch thick, and the thickness of the tiles from 1¼ to 1½ -inch.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 665.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Tiles. - -Ground Dark Green. Yellow Pattern, on a cut out Tile.] - -Fig. 662 shows a series of vaulting ribs, the two upper ones being of a -somewhat early date, while the others are later in character. - -Many tiles have been found in the ruins, which are now preserved in the -house; and a few of them are illustrated. In Fig. 664 we have two square -tiles, the lesser one having an olive-green ground with a white pattern; -the larger one is a red pattern on a white ground. Those shown on Figs. -665 and 666 are shaped tiles, cut out by hand to the actual form of the -figure, so that each separate tile is of one colour--in Fig. 665 it is a -dark green ground with a yellow figure, and on Fig. 666 a black and -brown ground with a white figure. - -[Illustration: FIG. 666.--Newbattle Abbey. Details of Tiles.] - - -LISMORE CATHEDRAL, ARGYLESHIRE. - -The Island of Lismore lies near the south end of Loch Linnhe, and at a -short distance from the mainland of Argyleshire. In 1236 the See of the -Bishopric of Argyle was transferred from Mackairn, on the south side of -Loch Etive, to Lismore, where a Columban monastery had been founded by -St. Moluoc at an early period. - -The cathedral was probably erected soon after the transference of the -see in the thirteenth century. It is said to have been a structure 137 -feet in length by 29⅓ feet in width. Of this pile there now only -survives a single quadrilateral chamber, without aisles, used as the -parish church, and measuring internally 51 feet in length by 23 feet 6 -inches in width (Fig. 667). It has four buttresses of simple form -against the south wall, and two at each of the north and south angles of -the east wall. The walls and buttresses are entirely covered with rough -casting. There is a doorway near the centre of the south wall (Fig. 668) -which has had a nook shaft on each side, and a round arched head with a -water table, but its details are destroyed. In the interior the arched -head is segmental, and the label has bold first pointed terminals (Fig. -669). There has also been a sharply pointed doorway in the north wall -(Fig. 670)--now built up--which retains in the interior a label moulding -with head terminations, one being the head of a bishop. - -[Illustration: FIG. 667.--Lismore Cathedral. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 668.--Lismore Cathedral. View from South-East.] - -In the south wall, and in the usual position near the east end, there -are remains of a triple sedilia, much damaged, but having shafts between -the seats, with moulded caps (Fig. 671). There is also a piscina in a -pointed recess, having a trefoil headed niche in the wall behind, all -much damaged (see Fig. 671). - -[Illustration: FIG. 669.--Lismore Cathedral. - -Interior Terminal of South Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 670.--Lismore Cathedral. - -North Doorway.] - -In the exterior of the north wall, and near the buttress at the east -end, there has been an ambry. This ambry, together with the absence of -buttresses on the north side, seems to indicate that there was a -building on that side, probably in the form of an aisle, connected with -the cathedral. The eastmost portion was probably the sacristy, which -would enter by the north doorway. On the south side of the church the -wall, with its buttresses (see Fig. 668), has evidently been the -exterior of the church. It contains a segmental headed modern window in -each bay. The south buttress of the east wall is widened at the lower -part, and contains a round arched recess, in which there has probably -been a monument. The east end has been greatly altered, and has had a -staircase block built against it, and a gallery door and high window -inserted. - -[Illustration: FIG. 671.--Lismore Cathedral. - -Piscina and Cap of Shafts of Sedilia.] - -The western wall, with its doorway, which has plain sloping jambs all -covered with rough-cast, is, doubtless, a comparatively recent -construction, built when the choir was converted into the parish church -and reroofed in 1749. - -There are traces of old buildings to the west, which are now used as -private burial-grounds, but it is impossible to say what purpose they -formerly served. - - -ST. KENTIGERN’S, LANARK, LANARKSHIRE. - -The Parish Church of Lanark existed in the twelfth century, and was -conveyed, with its possessions, to the Abbey of Dryburgh by David I. -This conveyance is frequently confirmed in subsequent deeds. - -[Illustration: FIG. 672.--St. Kentigern’s. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 673.--St. Kentigern’s. View from North-West.] - -The church, from time to time, received numerous gifts of lands and -houses from the burgesses and the neighbouring proprietors. Amongst -other endowments, a chaplaincy was founded in the beginning of the -fifteenth century by John Simpson, burgess of the town. The income of -the church and its lands was drawn by the monks of Dryburgh, and the -cure was served by a vicar and curates. At the Reformation the lands -went with the Abbey of Dryburgh, which was erected into a temporal -barony.[102] - -The Church of St. Kentigern was used for service long after the -Reformation, and was only abandoned when a new church was erected in the -middle of the town in 1777. - -[Illustration: BASE OF DOORWAY AT A - -FIG. 674.--St. Kentigern’s. Plan and Base of Doorway Shaft.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 675. St. Kentigern’s. Caps of Piers.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 676.--St. Kentigern’s. South Elevation.] - -St. Kentigern’s stands in the old burial-ground, about one-quarter of a -mile south-east from the town. It has been of an unusual arrangement of -plan (Fig. 672), consisting of a double chamber, divided by a row of -pillars and arches down the centre, each division possibly, and one -division certainly, having a chancel at the east end. The northern -division has almost entirely disappeared, but the central row of pillars -and arches (Fig. 673) and the walls of the southern division are still -fairly preserved. At the point =A= on Plan is the base of a doorway shaft -(Fig. 674), which was discovered some years ago by excavation. This -possibly represents the north doorway of the church. If so, the north -division was about 2 feet wider than the south division. The south -division is 74 feet in length by 20 feet in width internally. The five -pillars are alternately round and octagonal, and the two responds are -half octagons. The caps (Fig. 675) are of varied and good design, and -the arches have a double splay on each side. - -[Illustration: FIG. 677.--St. Kentigern’s. South Doorway.] - -The south wall (Fig. 676) contains the relics of a fine first pointed -doorway, and five narrow lancet windows with wide splayed reveals -inside. The doorway has had two nook shafts on each side, with markedly -first pointed foliage in the caps (Fig. 677), and the pointed arch has -bold and characteristic mouldings (Fig. 678). The west wall (see Fig. -673) has been much ruined, and is now restored. At the east end there is -a chancel arch fully 8 feet in width. The responds which support it are -half octagons, and the arch has a double splay on each side. There are -traces of small nail-head ornaments on the caps. All the details point -to the work being of the first pointed period. The chancel is entirely -gone, but the marks on the wall show that it has been about twelve feet -in width. There is a small lancet window, with wide internal splay, in -the east wall to the south of the chancel arch, and the latter is placed -close to the central row of pillars. This arrangement seems to have been -adopted so as to bring the chancel as near the centre of the church as -possible, perhaps with the view of enabling it to serve as the chancel -for the whole church, as there may have been no chancel to the east of -the northern division. But this point could only be ascertained by -excavation. To the east of the northern division, where a chancel might -have been, there has been erected (probably in the seventeenth century) -a mausoleum or tombhouse for the family of the Lockharts of Lee. This -rather seems to support the idea that there was no chancel in that -position. - -[Illustration: FIG. 678.--St. Kentigern’s. Arch Mouldings of South -Doorway.] - - -BURNTISLAND CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. - -At Kirkton, a village lying a short way north of Burntisland, there -stand, in an old churchyard, the remains of an ancient church, believed -to have been dedicated to St. Adamnan or St. Serf. The church (Fig. 679) -consists of a nave and chancel and remains of a south aisle. The nave -measures 41 feet 9 inches in length by 20 feet 6 inches in width -externally, and the chancel is 27 feet 6 inches long by 17 feet 9 inches -wide externally. The chancel is architecturally distinguished from the -nave being diminished by 14 inches in width on each side, and the -chancel arch is pointed, with an opening 7 feet 8 inches wide, and -consists of a single plain order springing from imposts having a simple -splay (Fig. 680). The jambs of the opening are plain, and have a splayed -base. The opening has been built up so as to enclose the chancel for a -private burial-place. The chancel contains the usual priests’ door in -the south wall, and two narrow pointed windows on the same side, greatly -splayed to the interior. It is remarkable that there is no window in -the east end, and the north wall is also blank. - -[Illustration: FIG. 679.--Burntisland Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 680.--Burntisland Church. View from North-West.] - -The south wall of the nave has been removed, probably when a south aisle -was added. Its place was, doubtless, at one time supplied by pillars and -arches, but they are now gone. Part of the outer wall of the south aisle -still remains. To the south of this there is a small building, which may -have been a sacristy, or perhaps a tombhouse. - -The north door to the nave is still partly preserved, and there was -probably a south door opposite it. In the west end, which still exists -(see Fig. 680), there is a simple pointed window, greatly splayed -within. - -The walls are built with freestone ashlar. All the features seem to -indicate that the church was erected in the thirteenth century, although -it has been surmised that it was rebuilt in the fifteenth century. The -simplicity of the chancel arch and the absence of an east window are -against that supposition. - - -PRESTONKIRK CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG 681.--Prestonkirk Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 682.--Prestonkirk Church. Details of Buttress and -Window.] - -This church, like several others in the eastern part of this county, is -dedicated to St. Baldred of the Bass Rock.[103] It is situated within a -mile of East Linton Railway Station. The church has originally been a -first pointed edifice, but now there only survives a small eastern choir -of that period, the main body of the church having been rebuilt. The -choir (Fig. 681), which is now cut off from the church by a solid wall, -is 15 feet long by 17 feet 6 inches wide internally. It has three tall -lancet windows of equal height in the east end (Fig. 683), separated by -first pointed buttresses of good form, as seen in the detailed sketch -(Fig. 682). The south wall has two simple lancets with hood moulds, and -on both sides there is a broad set-off below the windows. The north wall -is plain, and without special features. The building is a pleasing -fragment of first pointed work. - -[Illustration: FIG. 683.--Prestonkirk Church. View from South-East.] - - -COWIE CHURCH,[104] KINCARDINESHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 684.--Cowie Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 685.--Cowie Church. Moulding of Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 686.--Cowie Church. View from South-East.] - -This ruined structure, is situated near the coast on the north side of -Stonehaven Bay, about a mile from the town, and stands in an ancient -churchyard still in use. This church is an example of a simple oblong -structure in the first pointed style. It measures (Fig. 684) 70 feet in -length by 18 feet in width internally. The walls are built with -whinstone, and the door and window dressings are of freestone. The north -wall is broken down to near the level of the ground. The interior has -been lighted by three lancet windows in the east end, and there has also -been a stunted window inserted in the west gable. The doorway is the -only opening in the south wall which is still partly entire. It has a -segmental arched lintel, and is moulded on the outer angle of jambs and -lintel. The moulding (Fig. 685) would indicate a late period. The north -wall is broken down almost to the foundations. There is a plain -sacrament house in the north wall near the east end. - -[Illustration: FIG. 687.--Cowie Church. - -Section of Lancet Windows.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 688.--Cowie Church. - -Inside of East Windows.] - -The three lancet windows in the east end (Fig. 686) are the only -features with noticeable details. They are of different heights, and are -arranged in good proportion. The external jambs and arches have an outer -splay (see section, Fig. 687), inside of which they are checked for -shutters, the windows having never been glazed. The arched heads have -pointed and splayed rear arches and wide ingoings (Fig. 688). - - -THE ABBEY OF DEER, ABERDEENSHIRE. - -This monastery was situated in a beautiful valley on the banks of the -river Ugie, one mile and a quarter south-west of Mintlaw Railway -Station. It was founded in the year 1218 by William, the first Earl of -Buchan, who, by his marriage in 1210 to Marjory, the only child of the -last Mormaer of Buchan, became the founder in the north of the powerful -family of the Cumyns. He died in the year 1233, and was buried in the -abbey. In consequence of the accession of the Earl of Carrick to the -Scottish throne, the Cumyn family, who had opposed the Bruce, were so -completely overthrown that, says Fordun, “of a name which numbered at -one time three earls and more than thirty belted knights, there remained -no memorial in the land, save the orisons of the Monks of Deir.” Now not -one stone of the abbey church is left standing, and only a few fragments -of the conventual buildings remain. This is much to be regretted, -especially as it is known that considerable remains of the church -existed down till 1854. - -About the year 580 a church was founded in Deer by St. Columba and his -nephew Drostan, on ground supplied by the Mormaer of the district as a -return for the prayers of the saint in favour of his sick child. This -Columban establishment survived till the time of David I., and was -superseded by the monastery founded, as above stated, by the Earl of -Buchan for a colony of monks of the Cistercian order from Kinloss. The -site of the church (Fig. 689) is marked on the ground by an excavation -over its whole area. The structure consisted of a nave about 98 feet -long by 40 feet wide, including a north aisle, an aisleless choir or -presbytery about 25 feet long and 24 feet wide, and north and south -transepts. The total length of the church over all was 157 feet. The -nave had a north aisle, and was divided into five bays. The bases of the -pillars remained in position till 1854. The south transept was 39 feet -wide, or about 6 feet 2 inches wider than the northern one, and it had -probably a narrow eastern aisle. - -[Illustration: FIG. 689.--The Abbey of Deer. Plan.] - -The conventual buildings lay on the south side of the church, and are -built on ground sloping southwards towards the Ugie, so that a basement -story was required. The interior of the whole range of buildings is so -overgrown with vegetation and filled with debris that it is with the -utmost difficulty one can make his way through the ruins, and thus an -accurate examination of the place is hardly possible. - -The cloister was about 70 feet from north to south by about 90 feet -from east to west. On the south side there is a range of buildings about -125 feet long by 31 feet wide, divided into four apartments, forming the -basement story, over which the refectory was probably built. To the east -of this, lying north and south, is the fratry, measuring 35 feet in -length by about 19 feet in width inside. Projecting southwards beyond -the fratry by its full width a long range of buildings extends 80 feet -eastwards, and measures about 21 feet in width over the walls. At the -west end of this range there is an apartment about 20 feet from east to -west by about 16 feet wide, which may probably have been the kitchen. In -the north wall of this apartment there is a flue about 10 inches square. -The room enters from a passage adjoining on the east side. There appears -to have been a stair in this passage leading down to the lower -buildings, and probably up to the dormitory, but the block of ruins at -this part is so great as to render further observation impossible. Of -the buildings which occupied the east side of the cloister all traces -have now disappeared. - -[Illustration: FIG. 690.--The Abbey of Deer. - -Doorway in Passage.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 691.--The Abbey of Deer. - -Arches in the Ruins.] - -It is highly probable that the church was completed before the monks -erected any permanent dwelling for themselves, and this may partly -account for the resignation of the tenth abbot, Dene Adam of Smalham, a -monk of Melrose, who demitted office in 1267, “choosing rather to live -in the sweet converse of his brethren of Melrose, than to Govern an -unworthy flock, under the lowly roofs of Deir.”[105] - -All the conventual buildings now existing are of a date subsequent to -the founding of the abbey, but under the circumstances already narrated, -and from the absence of mouldings, it is somewhat difficult to fix their -period. The openings are all round arched and simply splayed. The -doorway into the passage adjoining the kitchen has a carved keystone -(Fig. 690), a rather unusual feature in Gothic work. The carving, which -is cut in granite, is decidedly Gothic in feeling, although in all -probability late. There exists a view of the abbey as it existed in -1770.[106] The view appears to have been taken from the south, although -it is rather difficult to fix the point of view; but, assuming that it -is from the south, it shows the north wall of the building just -described as in a much better state of preservation than it is now, and -the south wall as rather more ruinous. We understand that the north wall -was repaired sometime in this century. Judging from the view and from -the remains, the south elevation seems to have been finished with a -series of gables, having round-arched and splayed windows. Only a few -fragments of the church remain, and there can be no doubt as to their -period. They are genuine relics of the original church founded in the -thirteenth century. The principal fragment consists of two cusped arches -(Fig. 691), probably forming the top of a sedilia. They measure in width -1 foot 10½ inches each by 2 feet 3½ inches high inside, and are recessed -about 12 inches. - -Three or four corbels of the characteristic first pointed kind are -preserved; one of these is shown in Fig. 692. - -[Illustration: FIG. 692. The Abbey of Deer. Corbel.] - -The only other wrought stone belonging to the church is a very peculiar -one. It lies loose, and appears to have contained a double piscina--one -having its basin supported by a projecting corbel in the ordinary -manner, and the other with its basin and corbel turned upside down. Its -construction will be understood from the sketch (Fig. 693). In the one -basin, which may be called the upper, the aperture proceeds from a -sprout at the back, and emerges in the centre of the lower basin. The -upper basin is 7 inches deep and the lower 3½ inches. The other -dimensions will be seen on the drawings, with sections of the respective -corbels. - -Adjoining the ruins is the Abbey Bridge, spanning the Ugie. It is a -quaint structure, and may be partly as old as the remains of the -conventual buildings; but it appears to have been repaired or partly -rebuilt, as it contains the arms of James Keith of Bruxie, with the date -1718. - -[Illustration: FIG. 693.--The Abbey of Deer. Piscina.] - - -DEER CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 694.--Deer Church. Plan.] - -This church is situated in a beautiful bend of the river Ugie, in the -churchyard of the village of Deer, and is rather more than a mile -distant from the abbey. It is roofless, but the walls stand at about -their original height, and consist of a nave and chancel (Fig. 694). -The nave is of an unusual form, being wider than it is long; but it is -probable that it was originally longer than it now is. The exterior -width is 26 feet 10 inches, and the length 24 feet 3 inches. The chancel -is 37 feet 7 inches long by 16 feet 9 inches wide externally. It is -separated from the nave by a wall containing a round splayed arch, 7 -feet 6 inches wide, and (owing to the present level of the ground) only -6 feet 6 inches high in the centre. The level of the floor was, -doubtless, originally a foot or two lower. The present entrance doorway -to the nave is modern, and is in the centre of the west end. There are -the marks of an old doorway in the north wall, which show a plain arched -construction inside, and in this a window has been inserted at a late -period. Another square-headed window in the south wall completes the -lighting of the nave. There has also been a square-headed doorway in the -south wall. There are two piscinas in the nave--one adjoining the -chancel arch on the north, and having its basin in the depth of the -recess; the other (Fig. 695), in the south wall, had a projecting basin, -which is now sliced off. The most interesting and perfect feature of the -church is the locker or ambry in the north wall of the nave (Fig. 696). -The top is of a drop-arched form. The arch and the jambs and sill are -checked for a door in the usual manner. Above the door, and visible -whether the door was shut or open, is a pointed arch with a kind of rude -tracery enclosing a cross pattee cut out of grey granite. The locker is -13 inches wide. - -[Illustration: FIG. 695. Deer Church. Piscina in South Wall.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 696.--Deer Church. Ambry in Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 697.--Deer Church. Chancel Arch.] - -Sockets in the wall at the springing of the chancel arch (see Fig. 697) -indicate the former existence of a rood screen. In the south side of the -chancel there remain the indications of a stair which led up to a narrow -door, now built up, the sill of which is at about the level of the -springing of the chancel arch (Fig. 698). Unless this led to some kind -of pulpit from which an audience in the nave could be addressed, it is -difficult to determine its use. The wall here on the nave side is so -completely covered with ivy that this point could not be made out. - -[Illustration: FIG. 698.--Deer Church. Chancel Arch and High Door.] - -The walls appear to have been in part rebuilt, especially the south wall -of the chancel near the east end, where there are visible, both outside -and inside, stones having fifteenth or sixteenth century rosettes carved -on them. In the east wall there is a finely carved heraldic stone (Fig. -699) with the arms effaced. - -[Illustration: FIG. 699. Deer Church. Heraldic Stone.] - -There is an arched recess for a monument (Fig. 700) on the exterior of -the south side of the nave at the west end, which can hardly be seen for -the dense growth of ivy. The sculptured stones and coat of arms are -evidently insertions. - -[Illustration: FIG. 700.--Deer Church. Recess of Monument.] - -Deer is the site of a very early monastery, founded by St. Columba, of -which the venerable _Book of Deer_ is the only remaining memorial. It -was written in the ninth century, and contains the Gospel of St. John, -with portions of the other gospels, and notes on the margins relating -to the monastery written in Gaelic at a later period. The existing -church has no connection with this ancient monastery further than that -it probably occupies the same position. It was, doubtless, erected about -the fifteenth century. - - -AUCHINDOIR CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 701.--Auchindoir Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 702.--Auchindoir Church. View from South-East.] - -The ruined church of Auchindoir is situated in a remote part of Upper -Aberdeenshire, about six miles south-west from Kennethmont Station, -between Insch and Huntly. It stands on a slight elevation near the mouth -of the Craig Burn, which joins the river Bogie a short - -[Illustration: FIG. 703.--Auchindoir Church. South Doorway.] - -distance below. It has been pointed out by Mr. Jervise[107] that the -orientation of the church is peculiar, as it stands more north and south -than east and west; but in the following description the usual -orientation is assumed. The church is a simple oblong (Fig. 701), -measuring 50 feet in length by 19 feet 6 inches in width internally. Mr. -Jervise thinks it has been added to at the west end, and it has at least -been altered at that point, and a belfry added on the top of the gable -(Fig. 702). The rest of the building has also been considerably altered, -and a doorway inserted in the east end and square windows introduced to -make it suitable for Presbyterian worship. - -Towards the west end there are two doorways, opposite one another, in -the north and south walls. That in the south wall (Fig. 703) is a fine -specimen of early first pointed work. The round arch is retained (as is -common in Scotland), but the details are all of first pointed design. -The section of the jamb and arch mouldings (Fig. 704) and the dog-tooth -enrichment of the label are clear indications of that style. Mr. Jervise -doubts whether these features are genuine, and suspects that they are -late imitations of the first pointed style; but Mr. Muir has no doubt -about the doorway being of “late transition work, belonging, apparently, -to that precise period in the progress of the art when the already -softened features of the Normans were beginning to merge altogether into -the still more flexible and varied forms of the first pointed style.” -This opinion is confirmed by all the features of the doorway. The bold -foliaged caps on each side (of which the detached shafts are gone) are -undoubted proofs of the genuine nature of the work. This doorway could -never have been produced in later times. - -[Illustration: FIG. 704.--Auchindoir Church. South Doorway: Jamb and -Arch Moulding.] - -The north doorway is simple, having a plain round arch with a splay on -edge, and a recess for a bolt in the ingoing. - -The church contains a simple piscina in the south wall, and a very -elaborate ambry, or sacrament house (Fig. 705), in the north wall near -the east end. The decorated adjuncts of this ambry are about 6 feet in -height. The opening is moulded, and has a quasi buttress on each side, -crowned with a crocketed pinnacle in a late style of art. A pointed -roof, or flat canopy, rises over the ambry, having on the top a -representation of the crucifixion, with a skull carved at the base; over -the cross is a scroll bearing the letters I N R I. There are two scrolls -on the roof, carved with the inscription, HIC·Ē CORP DUĒ C V M, and on -the sill of the ambry, M·A·S·, which inscription Mr. Jervise renders -thus: “Here is the body of our Lord, with Mary, the Apostles, and -Saints.” The ambry has an inner recess on the left side. - -This work is evidently very late in style, but it can scarcely be so -late as Mr. Jervise supposes. He says:--“I am inclined to ascribe the -erection of the Sacrament House, if not the Kirk, of Auchindoir to the -laird and lady whose arms and initials are upon shields within it. One -of these shields, dated 1557, bears the Gordon arms and motto, HOIP IN - -[Illustration: FIG. 705.--Auchindoir Church. Sacrament House.] - -GOD; the second, initialed V·G:C·C·, presents the arms of Gordon and -Cheyne, impaled with the motto, GRACE ME GYID.” - -There can be no doubt that Mr. Jervise is in error as to the church -being erected in 1557; but it was probably altered at that date, as the -eastern or priests’ doorway in the south wall (which is now square -headed, and has a transome and upper light over it) bears the date 1557. -That was probably the time when the church was altered for Presbyterian -worship. The sculptured ambry was probably executed in the early part of -the sixteenth century, before the Reformation. - -In 1513-14 the Church of Auchindoir was erected into a prebend of King’s -College Chapel, Aberdeen. That would be a likely time for the -introduction of the sacrament house. The building continued to be -employed for divine service till 1810, when a new church was erected in -the neighbourhood. The old churchyard which surrounds the old church is -still used for interment. - -When this church ceased to be used for service, the roof and woodwork -were sold, and some of the panelling, including the back of the pulpit, -which is carved with shields, is preserved in a farmhouse in the -vicinity. - - -ST. CUTHBERT’S, MONKTON; AND ST. NICHOLAS’, PRESTWICK, AYRSHIRE. - -These two ruined churches are situated within a mile of one another on -the level ground near the sea, which forms the basin of the river Ayr, -near its mouth. - -[Illustration: FIG. 706.--St. Cuthbert’s Church. Plan.] - -Prestwick is an ancient town, which had a parish church; while Monkton -derived its name from the residence of a body of monks from Paisley. -Both St. Nicholas’ and St. Cuthbert’s were originally churches of -Prestwick, and were distinguished as Prestwick de Burgo and Prestwick -Monachorum. Both these churches were bestowed on Paisley Abbey, in 1163, -by Walter, son of the Great Steward of Scotland, and endowed with -valuable lands. - -[Illustration: FIG. 707.--St. Cuthbert’s Church. View from South-East.] - -Prestwick Church is mentioned in the Paisley Chartulary, in 1212, as a -chapel; Monkton continued as a rectory till the Reformation, and the two -parishes were united in the beginning of the seventeenth century. Till -1837 both churches were used for public worship.[108] - -[Illustration: FIG. 708.--St. Cuthbert’s Church. South Doorway.] - -The Church of St. Cuthbert (Fig. 706), at Monkton, has originally been -a simple oblong chamber, 46 feet in length by about 20 feet in width -internally. The walls of this part of the structure are undoubtedly -ancient, but they have been considerably altered, and a north wing has -been added after the Reformation. The belfry (Fig. 707) erected at that -period still exists on the east gable. - -[Illustration: FIG. 709.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 710.--St. Nicholas’ Church. View from South-East.] - -The only portion of the building which proves its antiquity is the -doorway in the south wall (Fig. 708). It has a round arch, but the -mouldings are of thirteenth century forms. There has been a nook shaft -on each side with bell-shaped caps, and an inner order with a large -roll. This fragment is precious as one of the few ancient features -which have escaped obliteration in this part of the country. - -St. Nicholas’ stands on a mound close to Prestwick Railway Station, and -is surrounded by an ancient burying-ground. The church (Fig. 709) is a -simple oblong, 44 feet long by 20 feet wide within the walls. It is a -very plain structure, and has evidently been altered, having -square-headed windows (Fig. 710) inserted so as to render it suitable -for Presbyterian service. The only noticeable features are the -buttresses at the east end. There are two of these, one at each side and -a small one in the centre, which are massive and present the appearance -of early work. Doubtless they and the walls are old, but have been -altered. There has been a plain belfry on the east gable, now reduced to -a portion of the base. There are three small buttresses at the west end, -but they are of a slighter character than those at the east end. - - -LUFFNESS MONASTERY, HADDINGTONSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 711.--Luffness Monastery. Plan.] - -The monastery of the Redfriars at Luffness is believed to have been -founded by Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, in 1286. The remains of the church, -which consist for the most part of foundations, are situated in the -private grounds of Luffness House, not far from the junction of the -Peffer Burn with Aberlady Bay, and about half a mile from the village of -Aberlady. The church (Fig. 711) has consisted of nave and choir, without -aisles, the choir being internally 49 feet and the nave 42 feet in -length, and both about 19 feet 6 inches wide. Both show the bases of -buttresses at the east and west ends, and there seems to have been a -wall between the nave and choir, which possibly sustained the rood loft. -In the north wall of the choir and near the east end (Fig. 712) are the -remains of an arched recess, which contains a much worn effigy, supposed -to be that of the founder. - -[Illustration: FIG. 712.--Luffness Monastery. Monument in Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 713.--Luffness Monastery. Choir.] - -A pointed doorway leading to the choir adjoins the monument (Fig. 713), -and the altar steps are seen rising beyond it. Part of the pavement -still remains at the east end, and in the centre is a flat monumental -slab (Fig. 714), much decayed, but on which can still be made out the -following inscription:--“(Hic jacet) honorabilis vir Kentigernus Hepburn -(dominus?) de Wauchtoun;” and the sacred monogram “I.N.R.I.” on the -upper part of the cross. Kentigern Hepburn was son and heir apparent of -David Hepburn of Wauchton. He received, on 5th September 1498, a charter -from his father of certain lands--viz., the lands of Quhiltinfuld in -Edinburgh, half a plougate in Cockburnspath and lands of Elstanefurd, -with superiority of lands of Towly in Fife and Elstanefurd. He also -held, from his father, a charter of the lands and barony of Luffness. He -married Margaret Lauder (see Great Seal, 1424-1513). The arms on the -shield in the centre of the cross are those of the Hepburns. The style -of the slab would indicate that of the fifteenth century. - -[Illustration: FIG. 714.--Luffness Monastery. Monument in Choir.] - - -ALTYRE CHURCH, MORAYSHIRE. - -About four miles south of Forres, and in the middle of an extensive -forest, not far from Altyre House, stand the ruins of an ancient first -pointed church. The parish of Altyre belonged formerly to the parsonage -of Dallas, but in 1659 it was disjoined from Dallas and added to the -parish of Rufford. The ruins of the church, which stand in a dense -thicket of bushes, are in fair preservation. The building is very plain, -consisting of a simple oblong chamber (Fig. 715) about 50 feet in length -by 15 feet in width internally. There appear to have been no buttresses -originally, but one has been added at the north-east angle (Fig. 716), -and - -[Illustration: FIG. 715.--Altyre Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 716.--Altyre Church. View from North-East.] - -a very massive prop has been built at the north-west angle, the ground -on the north being a bank sloping downwards from the church. There are -two doorways opposite one another near the west end, one in the north -wall and one in the south wall. In the east wall there is a two-light -window with simple branched mullion. The side windows are plain lancets, -there being two in the north wall and three in the south wall. The west -wall is blank. The walls and gables are still standing. Although the -church may be classed as first pointed, it is evidently of the latest -period of that style. - - -ST. MARY’S CHAPEL, RATTRAY, ABERDEENSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 717.--St. Mary’s Chapel. Plan.] - -This chapel, standing in the centre of its churchyard, is situated at -the east end of the lonely loch of Strathbeg, not far from Rattray Head, -a place well known and feared by sailors. It measures internally 45 feet -from east to west by 18 feet 9 inches from north to south (Fig. 717). -The gables are nearly entire, with considerable portions of the side -walls. Almost all the stone dressings within reach have, as usual, been -torn out for common purposes, so that the building is in a tottering -condition, and is greatly robbed of its interest; but enough remains to -show that it is a genuine church of the thirteenth century. It is built -of rough angular stones, with red freestone dressings. In the east wall -(Fig. 718) there are three round-arched and widely splayed windows, the -centre one being the highest and widest, viz., 2 feet wide and, -according to the new statistical account (which appears to be reliable), -11 feet high, and the other two are each 7 feet high. The gable itself -is said to be 32 feet high in its present condition. There appear to -have been north and south doors near the west end, and no other openings -in the side walls. In the west gable there is a window 8 or 10 feet -above the ground, and from 3 to 4 feet wide. The church has thus been -entirely lighted from the east and west ends. It is needless to say -that there are no remains of any of the usual internal features, the -polished stones of such having been carried off, forming too strong a -temptation to be resisted. - -[Illustration: FIG. 718.--St. Mary’s Chapel. View from South-West.] - -The earliest notice of this chapel is between the years 1214 and 1233, -when William Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, gives certain lands for the yearly -payment of two stones of wax, afterwards given by the Earl “in free alms -for ever to the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the town of Rettre -in Buchan.”[109] Again, in 1451, the chamberlain of the crown lands in -Buchan makes a deduction of six shillings, “paid to the Chaplin of -Rattre.” And in 1460 King James III. confirms a charter for a yearly -payment of five pounds and the third part of a stone of wax to the -chapel of the “Beate Marie Virginis de Ratreff.”[110] - - -ST. MAGRIDIN’S CHURCH, ABDIE, FIFESHIRE. - -The parish of Abdie is situated in the north of Fife, about two miles -south from Newburgh. It was originally called the parish of Lindores, -but that name was appropriated by the abbey, which was also founded in -the same parish. The loch of Lindores, on the south bank of which the -ruins of the church of Abdie stand, still retains the ancient name. The -church was of much earlier date than the abbey, and Mr. Laing[111] -states that there can be little doubt that the church of Lindores (now -Abdie) was of Culdee origin, and was one of the earliest religious -settlements in the country. The name Lindores signifies the “church by -the water,” a peculiarly appropriate designation in this instance. “In a -writing of the thirteenth century on a fly-leaf of a volume preserved in -the Imperial Library, Paris, it is recorded that the consecration of -‘Ebedyn’ church by David de Bernhame, Bishop of St. Andrews, took place -on the 5th day of September A.D. 1242, a date which corresponds with the -style of its architecture.”[112] - -[Illustration: FIG 719.--St. Magridin’s Church. Plan.] - -From the foundation charter of the abbey of Lindores we find that the -first bequest it received was the church of Lindores, and the lands -belonging to it. - -The existing structure consists (Fig. 719) of a plain oblong chamber, -which has been greatly rebuilt, but part of the walls of which may be of -the thirteenth century. The building measures internally 88 feet in -length by 17 feet 6 inches in width. The east end or chancel is the most -ancient part. It is about 30 feet in length, and has first pointed -buttresses and small lancet windows in the side walls. One of the -lancets remains in the south wall (Fig. 720), and two in the north wall -(Fig. 721). There is also a pointed priests’ doorway in the south side -wall. The three pointed windows in the east end seem to have been -altered. The broad - -[Illustration: FIG. 720.--St. Magridin’s Church. View from South-East.] - -skew, with cross on the gable, and its remarkable footstone are -restorations. The nave or western portion of the church, which is of the -same width as the chancel, has been rebuilt at different times, and much -of it shows in its windows, buttresses, &c., work of a very late period, -probably the sixteenth century. There is a south porch near the west -end, with a stone bench on each side. The entrance is by an elliptic -arch, with plain splay on edge. The belfry is plain, but picturesque. A -wing or north aisle has been added at a late date. It is called the -Denmiln aisle, and was erected by Sir Robert Balfour in 1661, and bears -his arms and the date over the doorway. In the choir there is a slab -with a fine cross carved on it, and also a recumbent effigy (see Fig. -721), considerably worn away by the weather. - -[Illustration: FIG. 721.--St. Magridin’s Church. Effigy in Choir.] - - -CHAPEL ON “THE ISLE,”[113] WIGTONSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 722.--Chapel on “The Isle.” Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 723.--Chapel on “The Isle.” View from South-East.] - -“The Isle” is a rocky promontory, formerly an island, but now connected -with the mainland at low tide. It stands near the south end of the main -part of Wigtonshire, about two miles north from Burrow Head and three -miles south-east of Whithorn. On this isle stand the ruins of an ancient -chapel. It is roughly built, with walls 2 feet 8 inches in thickness, -and, from its pointed arches, appears to be of first or second pointed -date. The structure (Fig. 722) measures 37 feet 6 inches in length by -22 - -[Illustration: FIG. 724.--Chapel on “The Isle.” View from South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 725.--Chapel on “The Isle.” Font.] - -feet in width externally, and has originally been very exactly measured -off. The doorway has been in the south wall, but it is now broken down -and the freestone dressings removed. There has been a tall pointed -window in each of the north and south walls, and a similar window, -though apparently wider, in the east end wall. The dressings have been -torn out, but the pointed sconsion arches still remain (Figs 723 and -724). There is a small square ambry in the north wall, and a similar, -but larger, one in the south wall. The exterior is quite plain, and -without buttresses or break of any kind. - -The simple bowl of the font has been recovered, after having served for -generations as a trough to bruise whins in for food for horses (Fig. -725). It is now preserved at Whithorn. - -Much discussion has taken place regarding this chapel, some supposing it -to be the original _Candida Casa_ of St. Ninian. The style of the -structure puts that view out of the question; but it is still thought by -some--amongst others by Mr. T. S. Muir[114]--that the isle was a much -more likely place for St. Ninian to fix his first settlement on than at -Whithorn, where he would be in the midst of a probably not very friendly -people. In that case the Chapel on “The Isle” would be the successor of -the original _Candida Casa_. But there is nothing at either place to -determine with any degree of certitude the site of the first Christian -edifice in Scotland. - - -CHAPEL, DUNSTAFFNAGE CASTLE, ARGYLESHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 726.--Chapel, Dunstaffnage Castle. Interior.] - -A plan and detailed drawings of this first pointed chapel are given in -connection with the description of the castle,[115] but the general view -of the interior (Fig. 726) is now illustrated, in order more fully to -explain the description above referred to. The ruin is densely covered -with ivy, but the jambs of the chancel arch, enriched with rows of -dog-tooth ornament, are distinctly visible (see Section). The arch is -now built up, and the chancel is converted into a tomb-house. A section -of the window jambs and shaft between is also shown in Fig. 726. This -edifice is one of the few examples of enriched first pointed work to be -found in the Western Highlands and Islands. - -Another very interesting specimen of a first pointed church exists at -Skipness, Kintyre, which is also described and illustrated in _The -Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_.[116] - - -BUITTLE CHURCH, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. - -A ruin, situated about three to four miles west from Dalbeattie. The -original name was Kil-Ennan, that of Buittle being comparatively modern. -A notice of the church occurs as early as 1275, when it was granted by -Devorgilla to the monks of Sweetheart; and on the 16th July 1381, Pope -Benedict XIII. confirms a charter by Thomas, Bishop of Galloway, -granting the Church of St. Colmanel of Butyll to the Abbey of -Sweetheart. We are informed that a new church was erected before the -Reformation. This was, doubtless, part of the present ivy-clad ruin. The -church and lands were annexed to the Crown in 1587.[117] - -[Illustration: FIG. 727.--Buittle Church. Plan.] - -The building is peculiar in form (Fig. 727), the choir being wider than -the nave--the former measuring 26 feet 6 inches, and the latter 22 feet -in width over the walls. The choir is about 30 feet and the nave 44 feet -in length internally. The walls and gables are well preserved (Fig. -728), but the whole building is so completely covered with ivy that any -architectural features which may exist are concealed. There is a pointed -chancel arch between the nave and choir, and the latter part of the -church is lighted with three lancet windows in the east gable. - -To judge from the appearance of the building the nave and its belfry -were, doubtless, the parts erected shortly before the Reformation, and -the choir is the more ancient portion. It is probably of first pointed -date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 728.--Buittle Church. View from South-East.] - -The straight lintelled doorway in the east end, under the three pointed -windows, is part of the work done in Presbyterian times. - - -TUNGLAND ABBEY, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. - -Of this ancient and important abbey there now remains only one doorway -(Fig. 729). The abbey stood on a level piece of ground at some height -above the rocky bed of the River Dee, about two miles from -Kirkcudbright. The situation is a fine one, and the modern manse is yet -surrounded with splendid old trees. The abbey was founded by Fergus, -first Lord of Galloway, in the twelfth century, and occupied by -Premonstratensian Monks from Cokersand Abbey, in Lancashire. The abbot -sat in the Parliament summoned at Brigham, in 1290, to settle the -succession to the Crown of Scotland. Robert I. and David II. both -enriched it with endowments. - -In 1503 James IV. appointed Damiane, an Italian, to be abbot. He was an -alchemist, and professed to be able to fly; but in endeavouring to carry -out his scheme from the walls of Stirling Castle, his wings gave way, -and he fell and broke his leg.[118] - -The abbey was annexed to the Crown in 1587. Symson mentions that in -1684 the steeple and part of the walls were standing. It is said that -the present church which adjoins is erected on part of the walls of the -old abbey. - -The part of the abbey which contains the ancient door has evidently been -refitted as a church in post-Reformation times, and has a gable with a -plain belfry. - -[Illustration: FIG. 729.--Tungland Abbey. Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 730.--Tungland Abbey. Details of Doorway.] - -The old doorway has some features (Fig. 730) which make it doubtful -whether it belongs to the first pointed style, or is only one of the -reproductions in imitation of that style which were common in the time -of James VI. - - -COCKPEN CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. - -[Illustration: FIG. 731.--Cockpen Church. Plan.] - -The ruins of the ancient parish church of Cockpen stand in a burial -ground about one mile south from the modern parish church, which is -situated about a mile from Dalhousie Railway Station. The walls of the -old church are in tolerable preservation, but they have been so much -altered, probably soon after the Reformation, so as to render them -suitable for Presbyterian worship, that the original features are almost -obliterated. The structure (Fig. 731) is a simple oblong, 65 feet 6 -inches in length by 15 feet 2 inches in width. There are some remains of -narrow lancet windows at the east end, but they have been much altered, -one of them being widened to form an outside doorway to a gallery. The -side windows have been similarly altered and new square-headed windows -inserted, so that almost all trace of the original features is lost. The -ruins are also so completely covered with a dense growth of ivy that the -details of the architecture cannot be properly investigated. Some burial -vaults have been thrown out from the side walls, probably in the -sixteenth century. From the scanty materials available it may be -inferred that the original church was a structure of the thirteenth -century. - - -PENCAITLAND CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 732.--Pencaitland Church. Plan.] - -This structure, which is still in use as the parish church, lies in the -valley of the Tyne, about four miles south from Tranent. It consists -(Fig. 732) of a long narrow building measuring about 83 feet in length -by about 23 feet in width over the walls, with a western tower, not -quite square in plan. On the north side of the chancel there is a chapel -of first pointed work, and adjoining it on the west a seventeenth -century aisle. Taking the chapel on the north side first as being -architecturally the most important, it measures in the inside about 22 -feet 8 inches long by about 10 feet wide. On the north side (Fig. 733) -it is divided into two bays, and had originally shallow buttresses of 18 -inch projection, terminating with a gabled top. The buttresses have been -enlarged at a later date. Between the buttresses there were large -pointed windows, probably once filled with tracery, but which is now -destroyed. There is another wide window in the east end, which has met -with the same treatment. In the west end there is a high window of two -lights, with a pierced opening in the apex under the arch. The mouldings -round the windows consist of thin reed-like beads, separated by deep -narrow hollows. The labels round the outside terminate as shown in Fig. -734. Over the buttresses there is a set-off on the wall (see Fig. 733), -and above this one deep course of masonry, carrying a corbel course of -small size, decorated with human and animals’ heads. The top course and -set-off are closed in at each end with a large skew stone, on which -there is wrought the original start of the sloping gable at a slightly -lower level - -[Illustration: FIG. 733.--Pencaitland Church. View from North-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 734. Pencaitland Church. Moulding of Windows.] - -than the existing gable (Fig. 735), showing that there has been some -change made here, the existing skew puts of gables not being original. -The north wall is bent outwards considerably. It is not unlikely that -the chapel was originally vaulted in stone, and, with the view of -strengthening it, the shallow buttresses have been enlarged as -indicated. The wide opening into the church shown on the Plan was -afterwards made, and the vault, thus losing its support on that side, -would be taken down. As a confirmation of the opinion that this chapel -was vaulted we find[119] that the roof was at one time covered with -flagstones. These, owing to their weight, are generally found only on -vaulted buildings, as at Borthwick and numerous other churches. From the -appearance of the flat arch of this opening it seems to be of later work -than the chapel, and on the east side of the ingoing there are the -remains of what appear to have been the jambs of a doorway. The chapel -would thus originally be separated from the church by a solid wall with -a door of communication, and what we have called a chapel may have been -the sacristy. This separating wall, it will be observed from the Plan, -is much thicker than the buttressed north wall, and, doubtless, was so -made for the purpose of resisting the thrust of the vault. - -[Illustration: FIG. 735. Pencaitland Church. Skew Stone.] - -Although the church adjoining appears to be mainly a building of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it undoubtedly occupies the site of -an earlier church, known to have existed at Pencaitland in the twelfth -century. Possibly portions of this earlier church are incorporated in -the existing walls, and it is not unlikely from the narrowing of the -east end on the north side (see Plan) that a chancel arch may have -existed. Over the tower doorway there is the date 1631, with the -initials of the incumbent, John Oswald, who probably built the tower. -About the same time the north-west aisle was built. It contains some -details resembling those to be seen at Wyntoun House, in the immediate -neighbourhood. In the _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 527, Chalmers mentions -that Pencaitland was possessed by Everard de Pencaithlan, and that he -probably obtained the lands from William the Lion (1165-1214), as he -granted the church of his manor of Pencaithlan to Kelso, with its tithes -and other rights, in pure alms for the salvation of his lord, King -William. After 1309 it is not mentioned among the churches belonging to -Kelso. The manor was forfeited during the War of Succession, and was -granted by King Robert the Bruce to Robert de Lawder; but soon after it -appears in the hands of Sir John Maxwell, younger brother of Sir Eustace -Maxwell of Caerlaverock, who granted to Dryburgh the advowson of the -church with an annuity from his lands of Pencaitland. This was confirmed -by William (Landal), the Bishop of St. Andrews, in 1343, and by David -II. two years later. A view of the tower and west end of the church, -with some details, will be found in _The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland_.[120] - - -GOGAR CHURCH FONT, MID-LOTHIAN. - -Scarcely a vestige remains of the old Church of Gogar, but the burial -ground still survives. It is situated about five to six miles west from -Edinburgh. The church was ancient, but after the Reformation the parish -was divided amongst the three adjoining ones. The bowl of the old font -still exists in the churchyard. It is very simple in design (Fig. 736), -and would appear from its mouldings to be of first pointed date. The -stand on which it is set is modern. - -[Illustration: FIG. 736.--Gogar Church. Font, with Section.] - - -THE ABBEY OF INCHCOLM, FIFESHIRE. - -An account of this abbey is given in _The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland_,[121] in connection with its occupation by the -English, in the time of Henry VIII., as a fortification. But being an -important ecclesiastical structure, and in some respects a unique one, -it is thought desirable to give it a place in this volume, with some -additional particulars and illustrations. - -The Island of Inchcolm, or Æmonia, as it was originally called, is -believed to have formed the cradle of religion in the East of Scotland, -as the more famous Iona did in the West; and it is thought that the -first seeds of religion were implanted in it by St. Columba himself. In -early times the founders of Christianity loved to establish themselves -on islands, and in the Frith of Forth ecclesiastical remains are found -not only at Inchcolm, but also on Inchkeith, the Bass, the Isle of May, -and the Island of Fidra. - -Like Iona, the Island of Inchcolm became especially celebrated as a -place of burial, and large sums were paid for the privilege of -interment on the island. This circumstance is referred to in -_Macbeth_,[122] in connection with the defeat of “Sweno, Norway’s -King”-- - -“Nor would we deign him burial of his men - Till he disbursed at St. Colm’s Inch - Ten thousand dollars to our general use.” - -The island appears to have been inhabited up to the twelfth century by a -Columban hermit. Fordun narrates that the abbey owes its foundation to -Alexander I., who, in 1123, was driven ashore on the island by a storm, -where he and his followers were maintained for three days by the hermit -who then made Inchcolm his retreat, and who divided with them his scanty -fare of shellfish and the milk of one cow. In recognition of his safe -delivery, Alexander founded and endowed a monastery, and brought to it -Augustinian Canons from the abbey he had established at Scone. The -monastery continued to prosper, and, in 1216, received a large addition -to its possessions from Allan Mortimer, proprietor of the domain of -Aberdour, on the mainland adjoining, who purchased the right of -interment in the church by bestowing on the abbey one half of his -estate. - -It is from this period that the existing buildings began to be erected, -and the construction probably went on for a considerable length of time -thereafter. In 1265 Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, built the new choir at -his own expense. He was High Chamberlain in 1255-57, and, at his death -in 1272, his heart was laid, according to Father Hay, in the wall of the -new choir. - -Although the island position of the monastery made it usually a safe -retreat, it did not protect it from the attacks of the English fleet -during the War of Independence. In 1335 it was harried by the English, -who carried off the precious chalices and censers, crosses and -chandeliers, relics, vestments, and images. The abbey was again attacked -in 1336, and in 1384 the fleet of Richard II. plundered it and set it on -fire. Some repairs were, doubtless, required thereafter, and we find -that in 1402 the chapel of the Blessed Virgin, adjoining the south side -of the choir, was founded by the Prior, Richard of Aberdeen, and Thomas -Crawford, Canon of Inchcolm. - -In 1418 Walter Bower, the editor and continuator of the _Scotichronicon_ -of Fordun, was appointed abbot, and carried out his literary work in the -abbey. - -As the period of the Reformation approached, the monastery seems to have -fallen off, and in 1543 Abbot Henry resigned office, and the abbey was -deserted. - -After the battle of Pinkie, in 1547, the Duke of Somerset occupied -Inchcolm as the best post for commanding the Frith of Forth. - -The lands of West Aberdour were acquired from Abbot Nicholas by James -Stewart of Ochiltree, who became Commendator of the Abbey; and his -second son, James Stewart, Lord Doune, was, in 1611, created a peer, -with the title of Lord St. Colm. He married the daughter of the Regent -Murray, and the lands were united to the estate of the Earl of Moray, -who thus became proprietor of Inchcolm. - -The island is about half a mile in length, and lies about one mile and -a-half from the harbour of Aberdour, on the north side of the Frith of -Forth. It consists of an elevated portion at each end, with a low lying -isthmus between them, on which the abbey is built, the buildings -extending across the full breadth of the land. - -Notwithstanding the many attacks and injuries the structure has -sustained, its remote situation has preserved the monastic buildings in -a more complete state than in most of our old abbeys. The edifice, as it -now stands (Fig. 737), consists of the usual cloister court (about 45 -feet square), having the church on the north side and the chapter house -beyond the east range. The monastery has the remarkable peculiarity of -having had the buildings surrounding the cloister constructed so as to -contain on the ground floor nothing but the cloister walk, and on the -upper floor, above the ambulatory, the refectory, dormitory, and other -domestic apartments of the canons. The cellars, stores, and other -offices have been erected in a wing to the south-east. A detached -building to the north of the church, now in ruins, was possibly the -infirmary. To the west of the monastery lay the garden, which is -enclosed with a wall. The well, which is sunk on the south of the -garden, is built round with ashlar, is 50 feet deep, and contains a -supply of good fresh water. A strong retaining wall runs along the north -side of the buildings next the sea, and encloses the monastery on that -side. - -A very interesting relic of the original eremitical occupation of the -island still survives at the north-west angle of the garden. This is a -small cell covered with a pointed vault, the true importance of which -was first pointed out by the late Sir James Y. Simpson,[123] who drew -attention to it as the cell of the Columban recluse who occupied -Inchcolm at or before the unexpected visit of Alexander I. It consists -(Fig. 738) of an irregular stone building, measuring internally 15 feet -7 inches in length on the north side and 17 feet on the south side, by a -width of 6 feet at the east end and 5 feet at the west end. The height -from the floor to the spring of the arch is 4 feet 8 inches, and to the -crown of the arch 8 feet. The cell is covered with a pointed barrel -vault, the arch of which is composed of radiating stones, and is covered -with stone flags, which form a curved roof on the exterior. The form of -the arch indicates that the vault is not of the most ancient type of -Celtic building, in which the arch consisted not of radiating, but of -overlapping, stones pushed out horizontally over each other till they -met with a flat stone in the centre.[124] The doorway, however, which -is at the south-west angle, presents on the interior some appearance of -the latter form of construction (Fig. 739),[125] while on the exterior -(Fig. 740) it is formed with a round radiating arch. There is one small -square-headed window in the east end, 13 inches in width and 24 inches -in height, the jambs of which are in single stones, without moulding or -chamfer. In the south wall there is a rude ambry, 12 inches wide and 17 -inches deep. - -[Illustration: FIG. 737.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Plan of Ground Floor.] - -This cell has, doubtless, been often repaired (indeed, it requires some -repair now), and it is possible that the vault and stone roof may not -be the original ones; but the walls are certainly ancient, and the -structure is very interesting from its being one of the very few relics -of the Columban church which survive in the eastern part of Scotland. - -[Illustration: FIG. 738.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. St. Colm’s Cell: Plan -and Section.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 739.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. - -Horizontal Arch of the Door, as seen from within the Cell.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 740.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. - -Exterior Arch of the Doorway.] - -As above pointed out, the abbey buildings are of different periods, and -have evidently been subjected to several alterations at different times. -The church appears to be the oldest part of the edifice. It has -originally consisted (see Fig. 737) of a nave, internally 35 feet in -length by 20 feet in width; a central tower, 24 feet long by 22 feet -wide - -[Illustration: FIG. 741.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. View from North-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 742.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. View from North-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 743.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. North-East Angle of -Cloister.] - -externally; and a choir to the east of the tower, of which a fragment -survives, but which was subsequently superseded by a new choir. The -church was lofty as compared with its width, as is apparent from the -high pointed arches (Figs. 741 and 742) in the east and west walls of -the tower. It is not now discoverable how the nave and choir were -roofed, but from the absence of buttresses, and the built water tables -in the tower with steep slope, the roof was most probably of timber. -Over the arch leading from the tower to the choir there is a doorway -(see Fig. 741), which gave access to a chamber in the roof. The church -was entered from the cloister by a high pointed doorway (Fig. 743) in -the south wall of the tower. Adjoining this, in the south wall, a wheel -stair led to the upper stories of the tower. The nave has been much -altered, but still retains along the north side an early trigonal string -course. The south doorway and other details of the tower also indicate a -date early in the thirteenth century (see the details of the doorway in -Fig. 750). The tower (see Figs. 741 and 742) rises to two stories above -the church roof, and contains windows, each having two smaller arches -enclosed within a round arch, and having the spandrils pierced with -simple quatrefoil openings. The parapet is supported by first pointed -corbels (Fig. 744). In each of the north and south walls of the tower -there was originally, at the level of the church, a single pointed -lancet window, the upper part of which has in each case been preserved, -although greatly altered at a later date. The upper part of the south -window is visible in Fig. 743; and a similar portion of the north window -is preserved over the door to the transept. The tower had simple -buttresses at the angles, one of which is still preserved on the south -side (see Fig. 743), where it has been incorporated with the later -cloisteral structures, while the other buttresses have been altered. A -fragment of the original choir also still survives in a portion of the -south wall, which has been incorporated with the later building of the -dormitory to the south. This fragment still retains, though built up, -the plain round arch of a small window, and its large, round sconsion -arch--the former now looking into the dormitory (Fig. 745), and the -latter being visible in the interior of the choir (see Fig. 741). This -window is, doubtless, of the period of the tower and nave. It has formed -part of the exterior south wall of the choir, thus showing that the -space opposite it was open, and that the dormitory, which is on the -first floor, and blocks it up, has been added at a later period. - -[Illustration: FIG. 744. The Abbey of Inchcolm. Corbels of Parapet of -Tower.] - -What the original form of the cloister buildings may have been it is now -difficult to determine. As has been pointed out above, their arrangement -is very unusual, the cloister walk occupying the whole of the ground -floor, and the domestic buildings being on the first floor. This -arrangement is quite contrary to that generally adopted, the usual plan -being to have a one-story cloister walk round the court, giving access -on the ground floor to the sacristy, chapter house, &c., in the east -range, to the refectory in the south range, and to the cellars, &c., in -the west range. At Inchcolm the ambulatory, or cloister walk--about 15 -feet wide--occupies the whole of the ground floor round the east, south, -and west sides of the square, while the church stands on the north side. -This arrangement would be somewhat awkward as regards the principal -entrance to the church through the tower, which would be left in the -open court without any covered way leading to it. An attempt has been -made at a late date to obviate this drawback by continuing a one-story -cloister walk round the north side of the court (see Fig. 737). - -[Illustration: FIG. 745.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Plan of First Floor.] - -The ambulatory is lighted by small round-headed windows towards the -court (see Fig. 743), having wide square ingoings with stone seats (Fig. -746); and the sill of the recess is raised about 12 inches above the -level of the cloister walk. Entering from the east walk is the chapter -house, an octagonal building, 24 feet in diameter, of a somewhat later -date than the nave and tower. - -[Illustration: FIG. 746.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Cloister Walk, East -Range, looking North.] - -At the south-west angle of the cloister court was the staircase which -led to the upper floor (see Plans). The latter (see Fig. 745) has been -very greatly altered, and has been divided by cross walls and -partitions, so as to form a dwelling-house. A square tower has also at a -late period been added on the exterior next the south-west angle (Fig. -747). It would appear, however, that formerly the apartments, although -situated on the - -[Illustration: FIG. 747.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. View from South-West.] - -first floor, were arranged in the usual manner. The dormitory occupied -the east side, and had direct communication with the choir. The -refectory was in the south range, and the pulpit from which one of the -monks read during meals is yet preserved, with a few steps in the -thickness of the wall leading up to it (see Fig. 745). The pulpit is -also seen projecting on the exterior in Fig. 747. The west side was -probably occupied by the lay brethren. A large fireplace, corbelled out -on the exterior, was built in the east wall of the latter department, as -shown in Fig. 754. There was an exterior door to the garden from the -cloister walk on this side. - -The nave, tower, and original choir were, without doubt, the earliest -parts of the edifice. The two-story cloisters did not at first exist, as -is apparent from the exterior window of the south wall of the choir, -above referred to. Probably there was then an ordinary cloister walk -running south from the principal doorway of the church, from which a -one-story building would enter on the east, according to the usual plan, -containing sacristy, chapter house, &c. Remains of a stone seat, which -exist along the east wall of the ambulatory, may indicate the original -position of the chapter house; and there are distinct evidences of -alterations in the east wall, to the south of the existing chapter -house. At first the refectory would probably be on the ground floor of -the south range, and the dormitory may have been on the first floor over -it. The above would be the arrangement of the monastery when built about -the beginning of the thirteenth century, soon after it received the gift -of Wester Aberdour from Allan Mortimer. - -Less than a century later a complete remodelling of the edifice took -place. The ground floor was converted into the ambulatory and heightened -into two stories, and the new chapter house was erected to the east, -with a doorway from the new cloister walk. At the same time, the then -existing accommodation having been found too small, the old church was -abandoned as such, and the tower and nave were converted into the -abbot’s house, a new church being erected to the eastward. The evidences -of the conversion of the church into the abbot’s house are quite -distinctly apparent. The large arches in the east and west walls of the -tower (see Fig. 741) were built up with pointed arches introduced in the -inserted building, and the height of the nave and tower divided into two -stories by the insertion of a round barrel vault carrying a floor. An -extra thickness of 15 inches was added to the nave walls, so as to carry -the inserted vault (see Fig. 737). A wing was also added to the tower in -the position of a north transept, in order to provide another room on -the first floor level, the north window of the tower being converted -into a door. The south window was widened and furnished with a stone -seat; but, as above mentioned, the arched head of both these windows is -preserved. The north room is provided with a fireplace and garde-robe. -The ragglet for the roof of the north addition is not built like those -on the east and west sides of the tower, but is cut into the tower wall, -thus showing it to be an - -[Illustration: FIG. 748.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Chapter House, looking -East.] - -afterthought. The upper stories of the tower were remodelled, that over -the first floor having a pointed barrel vault inserted, and the story -over being made into a dovecot, with built nest recesses all round. A -wider wheel stair was added at the south-east angle of the tower, to -give access to the abbot’s house. The ground floor of nave and tower -under the new arch became cellars; and a round aperture, 3 feet 8 inches -in diameter, is provided in the floor of the tower for access from the -cellar to the first floor. The upper floor of the nave now became the -hall of the abbot’s house, having a large fireplace with overhanging -hood built in the west wall, of which the remains still exist. Windows -were also cut in the north wall to light the hall. The old door to the -church was built up, and a new door provided from the cloister walk into -the new church. - -[Illustration: FIG. 749.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Details of Chapter -House.] - -It is difficult to determine when these alterations took place, and -possibly they did not all happen at one time. We are informed that a new -choir was erected by Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, towards the end of the -thirteenth century. It seems not unlikely that the remodelling may have -taken place about that time, and it is well known that almost no -building was carried on in Scotland from that period till the fifteenth -century. Besides, the frequent disturbances caused to the abbey by the -English fleet during the fourteenth century rendered building operations -at that time impossible. The church, however, seems to have been spared, -as it is on record that the lady chapel to the south of the choir was -added to it in the beginning of the fifteenth century. - -The general appearance of the cloister ambulatory (see Fig. 746) would -at first sight lead one to suppose it to be of an old date. The small -round-headed windows without caps and with chamfers on edge (see Fig. -743), their wide recesses, with stone seats, and the round vault of the -ambulatory, have an archaic look; but on close inspection, it will be -noticed that the west wall is built against and partly bonded into the -original south-east buttress of the tower (see Fig. 743), thus showing -that this wall is more recent than the tower. This fact also confirms -the view given above that the space opposite the south wall of the choir -(where the old window is) was open, and that at least the upper floor, -where the dormitory now is, was a later addition. - -[Illustration: FIG. 750.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Details of Chapter -House, &c.] - -The chapter house (Fig. 748) seems also to have been erected towards the -end of the thirteenth century. It is in the first pointed style, as the -mouldings of the caps, bases, window jambs, &c. (Fig. 749) show. It is -one of the very few octagonal chapter houses in Scotland, that of Elgin -Cathedral being the only other with which we are acquainted. The octagon -is regular and the ribs of the vault, which spring from a round shaft 4½ -inches in diameter in each angle, meet in a carved boss in the centre, -having a circular aperture from which a light might be suspended. The -bases of the angle shafts are of first pointed character, and rest on -the stone bench. The ribs of the vault have a hollow in the centre (see - -[Illustration: FIG. 751.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Interior of Chapter -House, from North-East Window.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 752.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Doorway of Chapter -House: Interior.] - -Fig. 749), like some of those in Glasgow Cathedral. The building is -lighted by pointed and moulded windows (see Fig. 748) on three sides, -and one window on the north-east side, which is smaller than the others, -and has a plain trefoiled arch head in the interior. The window jambs -have no caps. A small circular window occurs near the top of the arch of -the south-west side of the octagon (Fig. 751). The doorway enters -through the wall of the east ambulatory. It has jambs containing free -shafts and first pointed mouldings (Fig. 752). The caps of the shafts -are first pointed in style, but they have no bases (see Fig. 749). The -jamb mouldings terminate in a rather unusual way on a broad splay. The -arch is semicircular, or nearly so. A stone bench runs round the -interior of the chapter house, and is raised one step above the floor. -In the east end are three arched recesses (see Fig. 748) with good jamb -mouldings, finishing on a splay at bottom, but without caps or bases -(see Fig. 749). These were, doubtless, the seats of the abbot, prior, -and sub-prior. They are raised two steps higher than the other seats. -Externally, the chapter house is provided with buttresses on the angles -(Fig. 753), terminated with gablets, except on the north side, where a -continuous water table, with numerous set-offs, is provided, probably -because this side was concealed by the choir, and there was no room for -buttresses. - -Over the east wing of the ambulatory is the dormitory, which is covered -with a lofty pointed barrel vault, and is lighted by small, -square-headed windows (see Fig. 743) looking into the cloister court. -There is also a squinch in the east side, from which the high altar -could probably be seen. From the east side of the dormitory a steep -stair leads to a building which has been erected at a late date over the -chapter house. Tradition states that Walter Bower had this upper story -built as a quiet retreat, where he might carry on his literary labours -undisturbed. It is a rude erection (see Fig. 753), and greatly damages -the external appearance of the chapter house. It has eight sides, and is -clumsily roofed with a pointed barrel vault. There is a large chimney in -the north side, a large double window in the south side, and a small -window in the south-east side. - -The new choir or church erected to the east of the tower has been a -structure of considerable size, having been probably about 100 feet in -length by about 20 feet in internal width; but this building has now -been almost entirely removed, the stones having been used, as we are -informed, for the erection of a mansion on the mainland opposite. Only -the fragment at the south-west angle, which is incorporated with the -dormitory, and in which the ancient window already mentioned exists, now -survives. At the east end of the south wall one moulded jamb of the -sedilia can be traced (see Fig. 750), from which it is apparent that the -choir must have extended some feet further eastwards. - -Near the sedilia is the entrance to the lady chapel, a structure about -28 feet long by 22 feet wide internally. It is placed at right angles to -the choir, and has been covered with a barrel vault, a portion of which - -[Illustration: FIG. 753.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. Exterior of South and -South-East Sides of Chapter House, &c.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 754.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. West Side of -Cloister.] - -still overhangs on the west side (see Fig. 741). In the east wall is a -destroyed piscina, which no doubt adjoined the altar. The entrance -archway has had on the jambs a half-round shaft and two splays on each -side (see Fig. 750). A few feet of it remain, together with the base -(see Fig. 750), which is of late design, and might correspond with the -date of Richard of Aberdeen, by whom the lady chapel is said to have -been built. - -It has been mentioned that the cloister walk was continued across the -north side of the square by a one-story structure. This is now -demolished; but, from the foundations which remain (see Fig. 737), it -has evidently consisted of a thin parapet wall, strengthened with five -buttresses. The passage was about 11 feet wide, and had a wide arch in -the solid wall at each end opening into it (Fig. 754). The roof was -probably entirely of wood, and there is a ragglet cut in the stone work -at each end, which shows that the slope of the roof was flat. These -ragglets are rudely cut into the masonry, and that at the west end -passes across the corbel of a projecting chimney. This passage would -thus appear to have been a late addition. - -The cellars, stores, &c., which are frequently in the west range of the -cloister buildings, have in this instance been erected in a wing to the -south-east. This wing (Fig. 755) is two stories in height. On the -basement floor (see Fig. 737) it contains towards the east end a vaulted -cellar, about 50 feet in length by 13 feet in width, lighted by loops in -the south wall. At the east end a large oven is built out towards the -north side, and had a room over it. On the upper floor (see Fig. 745) -there has been a series of five or six offices, two containing large -fireplaces, and one an oven in the angle. At the west end (see Fig. 747) -the building has been carried up a story higher, and had a wheel stair -in the re-entering angle. An entrance passage to the interior of the -monastery passed through two archways under the north-west portion, and -led to the entrance tower near the south-west corner of the cloister. - -The south or exterior wall of the above range of offices has been -strengthened with buttresses, but, being close to the sea, the south -wall has been considerably damaged, and only the basement now survives. - -As above mentioned, the south-west tower of the cloister (see Fig. 747) -appears to be an addition of probably the fifteenth or sixteenth -century, when, indeed, the most of the upper floor of the south and west -walls would appear to have been erected. The corbels at the parapet of -the tower have the character of those of the castles of the period. A -window in the south-west gable (see Fig. 747) is round headed, and has a -hood moulding with carved terminals, which look like sixteenth century -work. The pulpit is projected on two buttresses, the space between which -forms a recess for a seat on the ground floor. The projection for the -pulpit has the appearance of being an addition. The large, square-headed -upper - -[Illustration: FIG. 755.--The Abbey of Inchcolm. General View, from -South-East.] - -windows in the south wall have a moulding on the jambs, and appear to be -of late date. - -A good view of the whole monastery is obtained from the eastern eminence -of the island (see Fig. 755). On the summit of this height there is a -flat piece of ground, which has been made available as a fortress, and -is enclosed with an embrasured wall, one part being of extra strength -and height, and, doubtless, formed the citadel. These fortifications -were erected about a century ago, during the war with France. - -[Illustration: Holyrood Abbey. - -Doorway in Interior of South-West Tower.] - - - - -MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED PERIOD. - - -Attention has been specially directed in the Introduction[126] to the -fact that while, during the Norman and first pointed periods, a strong -resemblance is observable between the architecture of England and -Scotland, after the first pointed period there is a break in the -continuity of the architecture of the two countries. Towards the end of -the thirteenth century, owing to the political events which then took -place, architecture in Scotland came to a standstill, and was not -generally resumed till the end of the fourteenth or the beginning of the -fifteenth century, when the country began to recover from the disastrous -effects of the long struggle with England. Various restorations had been -encouraged by royal grants during the fourteenth century, but some of -the edifices so aided were only reconstructed to be again demolished by -raids from the South. - -In consequence of the unfortunate condition of the country, there is -thus a wide gap in the continuity of the architecture of Scotland during -the fourteenth century. When the country revived, and building again -began in the fifteenth century, attention was chiefly devoted to the -restoration of the churches throughout the country, which had nearly all -suffered severely during the constant disturbance of the previous -hundred years. Few new works were undertaken, all the energy and -resources available being required for the rebuilding and completion of -some of the more venerated and cherished cathedrals and monasteries. - -The nave of Glasgow Cathedral appears to have been completed in the -early part of the fourteenth century, and the west end of St. Andrews -Cathedral was also to some extent repaired and rebuilt about that time. -Elgin Cathedral was in a large measure rebuilt after the great -destruction by the “Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390, and the Northern -Cathedral of Ross, at Fortrose, was enlarged about the same period. - -Of the ancient monasteries, those in the Border lands were much -destroyed. Melrose Abbey now retains not a single portion of the -original church. It had been completely demolished in the first part of -the fourteenth century, but was partly rebuilt, through the liberality -of Robert I., after the middle of that century; only to be again -destroyed by Richard II. during his raid in 1385. To that savage raid -was due the destruction of most of the sacred edifices of the south-east -of Scotland. Richard’s troops penetrated as far as Edinburgh, when the -town and church of St. Giles were consumed; and, in their retreat, the -invaders set fire to the abbeys of Newbattle, Dryburgh, and Melrose. -Paisley Abbey, in Renfrewshire, and Crosraguel and Kilwinning Abbeys, in -Ayrshire, were also greatly injured during the contest with England. -Jedburgh was likewise much damaged in the Border warfare, and Holyrood -and Arbroath Abbeys show signs of having required restorations in the -fifteenth century. - -When all the adverse circumstances of the country during the fourteenth -century are considered, it is not astonishing to find that examples of -the decorated style which prevailed in England at that time are rare in -Scotland. The representatives of that style are not only scanty in -number, they are also late in date. When building in Scotland revived, -the decorated style had been superseded in England by the perpendicular; -but the two countries being no longer in unison, the former style did -not reach Scotland till it had passed away in England. It was, however, -ultimately adopted in the northern part of the island, and the -architecture of Scotland, during the early part of the fifteenth -century, was carried out in a style which approaches nearer to the -decorated than any other style. - -This style, as we shall see, passes gradually into a later and somewhat -debased style, which, while it exhibits many features borrowed both from -France and England, yet possesses some interesting peculiarities which -render it a distinctly Scottish style, and will be treated of as the -third or late pointed style of Scotland. - -The decorated structures of Scotland, though somewhat belated and -inferior in size, are yet in many respects not unworthy in point of -design to take their place beside those of the later part of that period -in the sister country. - -The decorated or middle pointed period in Scotland extends till about -1460. Up to that time the architecture is comparatively pure in style, -and is chiefly based on the decorated work of England; but after that -date it degenerates and becomes of a debased and mixed character, and -contains indications of late importations from abroad. - -The first building which illustrates the Scottish decorated period is -the Abbey of Sweetheart in Dumfriesshire. This edifice was probably -begun about the time when hostilities broke out between England and -Scotland, and is intimately associated with the name of Baliol. What -length the works may have gone when stopped by the war cannot now be -ascertained, but the original design in the early decorated style has to -all appearance been carried out when building was resumed. The large -traceried windows and the details of the nave arcade and clerestory all -point to the decorated period. Possibly, owing to the English connection -of the Baliols, the design may have been brought from the South in the -latter part of the thirteenth century, and carried out with -modifications at a later time. - -Amongst the principal structures of the Scottish decorated period, -Melrose Abbey holds a prominent place. This building, which had been -partly restored through Bruce’s influence, was destroyed by Edward II. -in 1322. The restoration was again proceeded with, and the structure was -again partly demolished by Richard II. in 1385. The works had to be once -more restored, and the structure was not completed till the beginning of -the sixteenth century. - -A considerable mixture of styles, as would in the circumstances be -expected, is therefore found in the different parts of Melrose Abbey; -but there can be little doubt, from the nature of the work, that some -parts of the building belong to the Scottish decorated period, while -other parts have a stronger leaning to the perpendicular style than any -other Scottish church. A comparison of the details of this structure -with those of York Minster, to which they bear a close resemblance, is -convincing evidence of the decorated character of much of the work at -Melrose. Whether we look at the beautiful windows and tracery, or at the -buttresses, with their simple, but elegant, outlines and panelled -surfaces; or at the elaborate and beautiful niches which adorn them, -with their fine tabernacle work and spirited sculptures and figures; or -at the pinnacles, with their carved crockets and foliaged finials, the -style of the whole of the details will be found to correspond very -completely in the decorated portions of these two buildings at York and -Melrose. Other portions of the work have likewise considerable -similarity to the later perpendicular work at York. - -The details which connect the other structures of this period with the -decorated style will be more particularly referred to in the -descriptions of the buildings. A general statement of the characteristic -features and details of the style has already been given.[127] - -Special attention should, however, be drawn to one feature of Scottish -architecture which became very prominent in, and characteristic of, the -later phase of its development--viz., the pointed barrel vaulting -carrying a stone roof, which covered almost all the churches of the -third period. - -This we find introduced for the first time during the Scottish decorated -period at Lincluden College, a building which was erected early in the -fifteenth century, and is a very fine example of decorated work. The -roof was designed as a double one, the lower roof over the choir being -groined and vaulted in the usual manner; while above this vault there -was a pointed barrel vault, with strengthening ribs at intervals, on -which rested a roof composed of dressed overlapping stones. Beneath the -slope of the upper vault a small room was introduced between the two -vaults. At the parish church of Bothwell, also erected by the same Earl -of Douglas about the year 1400, a pointed barrel vault supporting a -stone roof is employed, but there is no inner groined vault. - -These two structures are early examples of a mode of construction which -specially distinguishes the churches of the late pointed architecture of -Scotland--viz., the almost universal use of the pointed barrel vault -supporting a stone roof. - -The above two edifices further illustrate another circumstance in -connection with the churches of the fifteenth and subsequent century. We -have seen that during the fourteenth century, and in the early part of -the fifteenth century, attention was chiefly directed to the restoration -and completion of the large cathedrals and abbeys begun in the twelfth -and thirteenth centuries. After the latter date large edifices of a -similar description ceased to be undertaken. The religious enthusiasm of -the people which gave birth to these splendid structures seems to have -exhausted itself, and pious efforts were now chiefly confined to the -liberality of individuals who endeavoured to raise monuments to -commemorate themselves by the erection of small collegiate and other -churches, or by founding altarages and chantries in the large edifices -already in existence. - -As already mentioned, the decorated style in Scotland is of a belated -character, and is not generally so pure as that of the corresponding -period in England. It will, however, be recognised that the examples -given are sufficient to justify the division of the styles herein -proposed. It will also be observed that the examples of the decorated -style form a striking contrast, both to the preceding edifices of the -first pointed period and to the buildings of the later or third pointed -style, by which they were succeeded. - - -NEW ABBEY, OR SWEETHEART ABBEY, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. - -The remains of this beautiful edifice are situated in a quiet -sequestered vale near the base of the hill of Criffel, about seven miles -south from Dumfries. The abbey stood on level ground near the Pow Burn, -a stream which flows into the estuary of the Nith. - -The ruins, though much dilapidated, are extensive, and belong to a fine -period of Scottish Gothic, of which comparatively few examples survive. -The conventual buildings have been almost entirely demolished and -carried off as building materials, only a small portion of the chapter -house and some foundations of walls still remaining. The church, -however, is complete in all its divisions, although the roof is gone and -the walls are much damaged. It comprises (Fig. 756) a choir without -aisles, a nave with two side aisles, north and south transepts (with -eastern chapels opening off them), and a square tower over the crossing. -A level field, extending to about twenty acres, called the Precinct, -surrounds the abbey, and is still partly enclosed with a strong wall -built with large blocks of granite. - -The monastery derives its name of New Abbey from having been founded a -considerable time after Dundrennan Abbey,[128] in the same county, which -was regarded as the Old Abbey. - -[Illustration: FIG. 756.--New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Plan.] - -Sweetheart Abbey was inhabited by Cistercian monks, and dedicated to the -Virgin. The founder was Devorgilla, daughter of Allan, Lord of Galloway, -and mother of King John Baliol. Her husband was John Baliol of Castle -Barnard, in Yorkshire. When he died, in 1269, his wife had his heart -embalmed and placed in an ivory coffin, which she carried about with -her, and, finally, at her death in 1289, at the age of 76, it was -buried with her in a grave in front of the high altar of the -abbey--hence the touching name of Sweetheart Abbey. The institution was -richly endowed by Devorgilla, who had abundant means. She was the -foundress of Balliol College, Oxford; and by her the old bridge over the -Nith at Dumfries was erected, portions of which still survive. - -The date of the foundation of the abbey is 1275. The names of many of -the abbots are preserved, but they do not seem to have been specially -distinguished, except the last, Gilbert Brown, who maintained the -doctrines of Romanism in a written controversy with the well-known -reformer, John Welsh, of Ayr. The abbot was afterwards exiled, and died -at Paris in 1612. - -In the sixteenth century the monks found it necessary to place -themselves under the protection of a powerful layman. They therefore -adopted the plan then common, and, in 1544-48, feued the Barony of -Lochpatrick and other property to Lord Maxwell, and made him heritable -bailie of the whole of their lands. - -The property became vested in the Crown by the Annexation Act of 1587, -and, in 1624, it was granted to Sir R. Spottiswood. Since that time it -has passed through the hands of several proprietors. At the Reformation -the records of the monastery were lost, having been either destroyed or -carried abroad by the monks.[129] - -During last century the buildings suffered great dilapidation, but -towards the close of the century, by the exertions of the parish -minister and some of the gentry of the neighbourhood, the structure was -saved from further demolition, and put in a proper state of repair.[130] -Since that time it has been still further repaired, and is now in good -preservation. - -Few of our ancient churches are so complete as regards all the divisions -of the plan. The nave retains its central compartment, 118 feet in -length by 33 feet in width, divided into six bays, and is separated from -the side aisles--which are 17 feet in breadth--by two arcades of six -arches each. The outer wall of the north aisle is almost entirely -demolished, but this, fortunately, rather adds to the picturesque effect -of the ruin, whether viewed from the interior or the exterior. In the -former case, the distant glimpses of the country as seen through the -arches, and, in the latter case, the beautiful view obtained of the -interior of the church as seen from the outside (Fig. 757), lend an -unusual charm to the edifice. The side aisles have evidently been -vaulted, from the remains of the vaults still visible. It should be -observed that the main arches are slightly depressed, their centres -being below the level of the caps. The western doorway is plain and -small, and seems, from the corbels above for the support of a roof, to -have had some kind of porch in front of it. The doorway was originally -surmounted by a large window filled with tracery; but at a later time -the tracery seems to have given way, and has been partly - -[Illustration: FIG. 757.--New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. View from -North-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 758.--New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Bay of Nave.] - -replaced by solid masonry, which sustains a wheel of tracery in the arch -(possibly part of the original window), while the lower part is divided -into three smaller windows, with little buttresses between, each light -having been filled with separate tracery. The nave is also provided with -the usual door adjoining the transept and leading into the cloisters. -There is no triforium, the wall over the nave arcades (Fig. 758) being -blank till the clerestory is reached. The latter consists in the -interior of a series of three arches in each bay, and on the exterior -(see Fig. 757) chiefly of semicircular windows filled with five pointed -openings in each. The sill of the inner arches is kept considerably -below the level of that of the outer windows, so as to diminish the -blank space between the clerestory and the nave arcade. The main piers -consist of a series of rounds, with larger filleted shafts at the angles -(Fig. 759), and the caps and arch mouldings (see Fig. 758) indicate -first pointed work. - -[Illustration: FIG. 759. - -New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Nave Pier.] - -The inner trefoiled arches of the triforium are of great beauty, and are -enriched with fine bold mouldings (see Fig. 758), supported on bold -shafts, the caps of which are carved with finely executed foliage, -partly showing some survival of first pointed feeling in the design, and -partly copied directly from natural foliage. They indicate a transition -stage from the early to the middle pointed style. The nave wall is not -divided into bays, with the usual vaulting shafts, the roof being -doubtless of timber. - -The central tower over the crossing stands on four piers, similar in -section to, but larger than, the nave piers. The tower itself is square -and plain, and rises, with a double crow-stepped gable above a plain -parapet, to a height of over 90 feet. The water tables of the steep -roofs of the four arms of the church are distinctly visible on the -exterior of the tower. - -The transepts extend 33 feet north and south of the crossing. They are -31 feet wide, and each contains two bays, with a chapel in the eastern -aisle opposite each bay. The east aisle of the south transept is the -only portion of the whole edifice which retains its vaulted roof. One of -the bosses bears a shield containing arms, said to be those of the -abbey. The charge consists of two pastoral staves in saltier, over which -is a heart, and beneath three mullets of five points. The motto is -indistinct. - -The façade of the south transept (Fig. 760) retains a portion of its -circular window, the tracery in which, like that of the great western -window, has apparently given way, and has had to be partly built up in a -similar manner with solid masonry. This portion of the church possesses -a few features which seem to point to it as the oldest remaining part of -the edifice. The forms of the windows indicate a somewhat earlier date -than the rest of the church. A small portion of the triforium in the -north transept (Fig. 761) has been spared, which shows that it has been -similar in design to that of the nave. - -The choir (see Fig. 761) is without aisles, and is 50 feet long by 28 -feet wide, and divided into three bays. It is lighted with one large -traceried east window and two traceried windows on each side; and the -tracery, as rarely happens in Scotland, is still preserved. It is a -peculiarity of this structure that most of the arches are depressed, the -centres from which the arches are struck being below the level of the -capitals; and this peculiarity is particularly apparent in the great -east window of the choir. - -[Illustration: FIG. 760.--New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. View from -South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 761.--New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Choir, from -Crossing.] - -is also noticeable in the side windows and throughout the building, even -the arches of the main arcades of the nave having, as already pointed -out, a similar form. The inner mouldings of the window arches by this -arrangement abut against or die into the jambs, a form not in itself -displeasing; but the incompleted and broken appearance of the arches of -the hood at the face of the wall cannot be regarded as beautiful. - -Some further peculiarities are also to be noticed in connection with the -tracery. A prominent moulding is carried round the mullions and the -lower arches only of the eastern window, while the upper parts of the -tracery are plain and rather heavy in appearance. In the case of the -side windows of the choir a similar moulding is carried round the whole -of the tracery, and the effect, owing to the depression of the arches, -is somewhat squat and heavy. - -The most beautifully detailed feature of the church is undoubtedly the -triforium. Although now only well preserved in the nave, it has -originally gone round the whole edifice, small portions of it being -still preserved, as above mentioned, in the triforiums of the transepts -and choir (see Fig. 761). In the two latter places it has been simpler -than in the nave, the caps being moulded in these situations, and -beautifully carved with foliage in the nave. - -The semicircular arch of the upper window in the east gable (Fig. 762) -of the choir and the similar form in the exterior windows of the -triforium of the nave (see Fig. 757) are quite in accordance with -Scottish usage, and give no clue to the date. - -The sedilia and piscina of the choir have been of fine workmanship, but -are now sadly destroyed. - -It is unfortunate that so few written records remain to fix the dates of -the different parts of the edifice. It is known to have been founded in -1275, and if in England, the building would, from its style, be -attributed to the period immediately succeeding; but in Scotland, the -period from 1296 onwards was a time of war and disturbance, when very -little building was in progress. Probably the choir was begun in the -lifetime of the foundress, and was sufficiently far advanced to permit -of her burial within the walls; but the building would certainly be -interrupted during Edward’s invasions, and was not likely to be resumed -till after a considerable interval. Some portions of the transept have -already been referred to as probably the oldest parts of the existing -edifice. The choir seems to have been next constructed or completed, and -the nave not long afterwards, probably during the fourteenth century. -Although ecclesiastical buildings in Scotland were rare at that period, -still we know that Bruce encouraged the re-erection of churches at -Melrose, Crosraguel, St. Andrews, and elsewhere, and there can be little -doubt but that in this remote and quiet region building operations may -have been in progress during his reign. The design and workmanship at -Sweetheart are, as we have seen, in some respects inferior and contrast -disadvantageously with the beautiful work at Dundrennan Chapter House. -May we hazard the conjecture that the latter was executed before the -true current of - -[Illustration: FIG. 762.--New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. View from -North-East.] - -architectural feeling and design was stopped and broken by the War of -Independence, while the buildings at Sweetheart were carried on and -completed after the current had been interrupted, and the sympathy with -the advancing art of the South had not had time fully to recover itself? - -We are informed[131] that, in 1381, a charter to the Church of St. -Colmonel of Butyle was granted by the Bishop of Galloway to Sweetheart -Abbey on account of the poverty of the abbey and the demolition of the -monastery by lightning, which charter was confirmed by the Pope in 1397. -This seems to point to some considerable damage sustained by the -buildings about that period, and may account for the curious repairs of -the tracery of the great west window and the circular window of the -south transept. It may also explain the remarkable patch of the upper -window in the end of the north transept, where the originally pointed -window has been mended with a segmental top. - -The cloister garth is still traceable and is unencumbered with -buildings, except one detached gable, evidently of ancient date, but the -history and use of which cannot now be determined (see Fig. 760). It -contains two shields, but the armorial bearings have entirely -disappeared. This view from the south-west point, which includes the -above ivy-clad gable in the foreground, with the remains of the chapter -house and an ancient tree on the opposite side of the cloister garth, is -one of the most striking and picturesque aspects of the abbey. - -The chapter house is separated from the south transept by a narrow -passage or slype, from which a door opened into the transept. - -The size of the chapter house has been about 30 feet by 20 feet, but -only a few feet of its walls remain. It has been lighted by a large -traceried window looking to the east (see Fig. 760). The refectory is -said to have been on the south side of the cloisters, but it has now -disappeared. - - -MELROSE ABBEY, ROXBURGHSHIRE. - -Amongst the picturesque and beautiful remains of our ancient church -architecture, the ruins of Melrose Abbey most deservedly occupy a -distinguished place. Apart altogether from the charm which attaches to -this edifice from the poetic interest which has been thrown around it, -and the attractive nature of the beautiful locality, the architecture of -the building is of a high order, and particularly valuable from the -richness and completeness of its details, which afford a fine -illustration of a period of Scottish architecture the examples of which -are not numerous. The building stands in the sheltered and cultivated -vale of the Tweed, surrounded by gentle pastoral hills, presenting one -of those peaceful sites dear to the Cistercians, by whom the abbey was -colonised. It was founded by David I., who brought to it from Rievalle, -in Yorkshire, the first monks of the Cistercian order in Scotland. A -more ancient Abbey of Melrose had existed from the seventh century, on a -broad meadow, nearly surrounded by a “loop” of the Tweed, about two and -a-half miles lower down the river. It was established about the year -650, and the first abbot was Eata, one of the chosen band of disciples -educated by Aidan, the missionary from Iona, who converted the heathen -Northumbrians, and founded the Abbey of Lindisfarne. In the primitive -monastery of Old Melrose St. Cuthbert spent much of his early life -before passing to more distinguished charges at Hexham and Lindisfarne. -Here also the monks of Lindisfarne, when expelled by the Danes, found -refuge, bringing with them St. Cuthbert’s sacred body, which, after many -wanderings, found a final and worthy resting-place at Durham. This -establishment at Old Melrose suffered many vicissitudes, and in the -eleventh century was a ruined and desolate place. It afterwards became -the retreat of a few monks, amongst whom was Turgot, the confessor and -biographer of Queen Margaret, and subsequently Bishop of St. Andrews. A -chapel was erected and dedicated to St. Cuthbert, which at first -belonged to Coldingham, but was finally presented by David I. to his new -Abbey of Melrose. - -The latter abbey was founded, in 1136, at a place then called Fordell, -and was endowed by King David and his nobles with ample lands. The -church then erected was in course of building for ten years. It was -consecrated in 1146, and was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. As only a -short time had elapsed since the founding of the abbey, the buildings -then constructed probably consisted of the residence of the monks and an -oratory. These erections were no doubt in the Norman style of the -period, of which style some examples are preserved in the other -monasteries founded in the district about the same period, such as the -Abbeys of Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dryburgh.[132] How long the original -structures continued it is now impossible to say, as every trace of them -has long since disappeared. From its situation, in the direct path -between England and Scotland, Melrose was particularly exposed to -danger, and frequently suffered in the wars between the two countries. - -Many of the abbots were distinguished men. Waltheof, an early abbot, was -reputed a saint and worker of miracles. The connection with the parent -house of Rievalle was kept up, and monks from Melrose sometimes became -abbots of the Yorkshire monastery. Melrose also sent abbots to other -Cistercian houses, including Kinloss, Coupar, Newbattle, Deer, and -Balmerino. - -The possessions of the abbey soon increased, and it held lands in many -parts of Scotland. Its property was considerably augmented, in 1235, by -a grant from King Alexander II. of the lands of Ettrick Forest. - -In 1246 Abbot Matthew erected many convenient offices and buildings and -a magnificent hall on the bank of the river for himself and his -successors, but these structures have now disappeared. - -In 1291 Edward I. granted protection to the monks of Melrose, but when -John Baliol opposed him, he took possession of their lands. These, -however, he subsequently restored, on the monks doing homage to him as -liege lord. His letters to the sheriffs of counties show how extensively -the monastery’s lands were spread, extending even into England. These -letters were addressed to the sheriffs in Berwick, Ayr, Jedburgh, -Peebles, Edinburgh, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and Northumberland. - -Edward II., in 1322, invaded Scotland as far as Edinburgh, and, in -retiring from his unsuccessful expedition, he slew the monks and -pillaged and destroyed the abbey. The church and other buildings seem to -have been greatly ruined on this occasion, and were rebuilt thereafter -chiefly through the influence and liberality of King Robert Bruce. In -1326 King Robert granted the monks rents from forfeited lands equivalent -to a sum of £2000 (which would now represent £15,000), to enable them to -rebuild the abbey, which lay in ruins; and in 1329, shortly before his -death, he addressed a letter to his son and successor, recommending the -abbey to his favour, and desiring his heart to be buried in the church. -Melrose, along with other portions of the south of Scotland, remained in -the hands of Edward III. for about forty years. - -In 1385 Richard II. carried out another unsuccessful, though -destructive, invasion of the south of Scotland. As he retreated -homewards he lodged one night in Melrose Abbey, and next morning set -fire to it and destroyed it, as he also did to the abbeys of Newbattle -and Dryburgh. - -About the middle of the fifteenth century Andrew Hunter was abbot. He -was confessor of James II., and was employed in many offices of State, -being Ambassador to France in 1448, and concerned in negotiations with -England till 1460. He was also Lord High Treasurer, 1449-53. - -This abbot being a man of such high office, it is natural to look for -some benefit arising to the abbey through his influence, and accordingly -we find that he has left his mark on the church, his coat of arms being -carved at least three times on different parts of the building. This -leads to the conclusion that some portions of the structure were erected -by him, and gives a clue to the date of erection of those portions. - -The secularisation of the property of the abbey followed the usual -course in the sixteenth century. In 1535 King James V. was invested with -the administration of the revenues, and, in 1541, he conferred the abbey -on his infant son--Durie, the abbot, retiring on a pension to make way -for him. - -During the repeated invasions of the Generals of Henry VIII., the abbeys -of the south of Scotland suffered along with the churches and domestic -buildings of the district. In 1544 Melrose was damaged by Sir Ralph -Eure and Sir Bryan Laiton, who also defaced the tombs of the Douglases -in the church--a disgrace which was avenged the following year by the -defeat of the English at Ancrum Moor. The above destructive attack was -followed by that of the Earl of Hertford, who demolished what of the -Border abbeys had not already been destroyed. - -In 1558 Cardinal Guise was Commendator of Melrose, and, in 1559, the -abbey was taken possession of by the Lords of the Congregation. In 1560 -it was annexed to the Crown; but an allowance was granted to eleven -monks and three portioners, being apparently all who survived of the -inmates of the monastery, who, in 1542, numbered one hundred monks and -as many lay brethren. - -Under Queen Mary the estates were granted to the Earl of Bothwell, with -the title of Commendator, and, after passing through the hands of -Douglas of Lochleven and Sir John Ramsay, they were ultimately acquired -by the Scotts of Buccleuch. - -The abbey appears never to have recovered the destruction of the -sixteenth century, and gradually fell into decay. The materials of the -buildings were used for the erection of other structures, and Douglas, -the Commendator, built a house for himself out of the ruins. - -The masonry long continued to form a quarry for the supply of the -locality, being used, amongst other purposes, for the erection of the -Tolbooth and for repairing the mills and sluices. - -In 1618 the portion of the structure which still remained was fitted up -as the parish church, and, in order to render it secure, a plain pointed -barrel vault was thrown across the nave, and was supported by plain -square piers built against the old piers on the north side. The original -vaulting seems to have been previously demolished. - -By remarkable good fortune the statues and images which filled the -niches escaped destruction till 1649, when they suffered at the hands of -an iconoclast, but by whose orders it is not known. - -The charters of the abbey have been kept amongst the archives of the -Earl of Morton, and form “the finest collection of ancient writs -preserved in Scotland.”[133] - -Of the once extensive structures connected with the Abbey of Melrose -there now only remain the ruins of the church. - -The domestic buildings and cloister, including the hall of Abbot Matthew -above mentioned, were situated, somewhat contrary to the usual practice, -on the north side of the church. The course of the Tweed has altered -since the thirteenth century; and possibly this arrangement of the plan -may have had some connection with facilities for water service in the -then course of the river. A mill-lade still flows along what would -formerly be the north side of the monastery; but - -[Illustration: FIG. 763.--Melrose Abbey. Plan.] - -the domestic structures have now entirely disappeared, leaving only a -portion of the cloister to indicate their position on the north side of -the nave. A door at a high level in the north transept shows the access -of the monks to the church from the dormitory, which lay to the north. A -similar high door, leading from the dormitory to the church by a -straight stair, still exists at Pluscardine Priory, and there is a -corresponding doorway at Dryburgh Abbey; but in these convents the -monastic buildings lay on the south side of the church. - -The church is cruciform, and the Plan (Fig. 763) has this peculiarity, -that the choir is unusually short and the nave is unusually long. The -choir extends, with aisles, only two bays eastwards from the crossing, -beyond which point the presbytery is carried one bay further, without -aisles, and is lighted by large windows on the north and south sides, as -well as by the great eastern window. - -[Illustration: FIG. 764.--Melrose Abbey. Plan of Nave Pier.] - -The shortness of the choir rendered it necessary that part of the nave -should be appropriated for the accommodation of the monks, and the -enclosing screen wall of this portion of the “choir” extended to the -fourth pier west from the crossing, where it was carried across the nave -and formed the rood screen. This arrangement is apparent from the broken -portions of the screen wall, which formed integral parts of the -structure of the nave piers (Fig. 764), having been built along with -them, thus showing that the screen constituted a feature in the original -design. The part of this screen which crosses the nave still exists. It -is wide, and contained a gallery, on top of which stood the rood. Fig. -765 shows the door through it from the nave. On the left is the small -stone stair leading to the gallery. - -[Illustration: FIG. 765.--Melrose Abbey. Doorway in Rood Screen.] - -The nave now extends to eight bays in length, but it has been intended -to be longer, the west end being incomplete; it is impossible, however, -to say how far it was meant to extend. It is stated that the foundations -of the nave have been found, in excavating, to reach to a considerable -distance westward. The existing nave is 160 feet in length, and has -north and south aisles. Extending southwards, beyond the south aisle, is -a series of eight chapels, which produce, externally, along with the -south aisle the appearance of a double aisle (Fig. 766). - -The north aisle is narrower than the south aisle, the former being 6 -feet and the latter 11 feet in width. This difference may have arisen -from the plan of the original abbey of the twelfth century being adhered -to in the later reconstruction. The position of the cloister may have -hampered the design, and prevented the north aisle from being widened in -the direction of the cloister. - -The central nave is 26 feet in width, and the depth of the south chapels -13 feet 6 inches, and the total width of the nave, with aisles and -chapels, is 68 feet. - -The transept consists of two portions--the north and south -transepts--and contains the usual eastern aisle only, in which are -situated four chapels. The total length of the transept over the -crossing is 114 feet 6 inches, and the width of the north transept, -including the aisle, is 40 feet 6 inches, while that of the south -transept is 42 feet 6 inches. - -The length of the choir and presbytery is 59 feet, and the width 26 -feet. The aisles of the transept return along each side of the choir for -two bays, leaving the length of the aisleless presbytery 24 feet. - -The plan or outline of the walls of the church, as above described, is -still almost all preserved, but the superstructure has suffered -severely. The western part of the nave beyond the rood screen is very -greatly demolished. The portion eastwards from the rood screen is in -better condition. The vaulting of the aisles (Fig. 767) remains, and is -in good preservation; but that of the centre aisle is demolished, a -pointed tunnel vault (Fig. 768) having been constructed in 1618, as -above described. A few courses of the springing of the original groins, -seen rising above the vaulting shafts of each bay, have been left -standing. The level cornice at the springing of the inserted arch -defaces the clerestory windows, and builds up the upper half of them in -the interior. The roof over the arch is composed of slabs of stone -carefully dressed (see Figs. 766 and 769). The carved work of the caps -of the piers and other enrichments of this portion of the nave are well -preserved and are of beautiful workmanship (Fig. 770). - -The eight chapels which extend along the south side of the nave are in -good preservation, although some parts of the three furthest west are -somewhat damaged and have lost their vaulting. That of the remaining -five still exists, and is protected by a flat slated roof, which -stretches - -[Illustration: FIG. 766.--Melrose Abbey. Nave, from South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 767.--Melrose Abbey. South Side of Nave.] - -over the south aisle and the chapels (see Fig. 766). The tracery in the -windows of those chapels is good, and has suffered much less than usual. -The vaulting of the nave, south aisle, and chapels is supported by a -series of flying buttresses, which form one of the most prominent and -beautiful - -[Illustration: FIG. 768.--Melrose Abbey. Rood Screen and Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 769.--Melrose Abbey. Niche, in Nave Pinnacle, with -Figure of St. Andrew.] - -elements of the building. No church in Scotland retains such a striking -example of that important feature of Gothic architecture. - -[Illustration: FIG. 770.--Melrose Abbey. Caps of Piers in Nave.] - -The eastern piers of the crossing have been demolished, probably in some -of the attempts to blow up the building in Henry VIII.’s time. Their -destruction has entailed that of the central tower, of which only the -western wall remains (see Fig. 766). The transepts have suffered by the -fall of the tower, the vaulting of the north transept being demolished, -except in one chapel, while that of the south transept is reduced to the -south bays of the central nave and the adjoining chapel (Fig. 771). -Fortunately the south wall of the transept, with its splendid decorated -window, is still in good preservation (Fig. 772). From the south -transept access is obtained to the roof of the aisle of the nave and the -upper parts of the structure by a turnpike stair, which also forms the -only mode of approach to the tower (Fig. 773). - -The choir (Fig. 774), so far as the east end is concerned, is well -preserved, the buttresses and gable, the celebrated eastern window, and -the remarkable vaulting (Fig. 775) of the presbytery being all in good -order. The remainder of the choir, however, has been greatly wrecked by -the fall of the central tower; but many of the windows of the choir and -transept, - -[Illustration: FIG. 771.--Melrose Abbey. South Transept.] - -with their perpendicular tracery, have escaped destruction and afford -the best example in Scotland of that form of design (Fig. 776). - -[Illustration: FIG. 772.--Melrose Abbey. South Transept: Exterior.] - -Having described the present condition of the edifice, we shall now -consider the different parts in the order of their age, so far as -ascertainable. - -[Illustration: FIG. 773.--Melrose Abbey. South-West Angle of South -Transept.] - -There seems to be no part now traceable of the church erected in the -twelfth century, except perhaps one or two tombstones. It has been - -[Illustration: FIG. 774.--Melrose Abbey. East End of Choir.] - -pointed out above that the arrangements of that original church and -cloister probably influenced the position of the north wall of the nave, -and thus caused the narrowness of the north aisle. It seems not -improbable that some of the original north wall may be preserved as the -core of the present wall, having been faced up with newer work on each -side. - -[Illustration: FIG. 775.--Melrose Abbey. Interior of Choir.] - -But, speaking generally, the building, as it now stands, is all of a -date subsequent to Bruce’s time, and much of it is later than the -destruction which occurred under Richard II. in 1385. The nave, from the -crossing to the rood loft, and part of the transepts are, undoubtedly, -the oldest - -[Illustration: FIG. 776.--Melrose Abbey. South-East Angle of Transept -and Choir.] - -portions of the existing edifice. The work in these is, for the most -part, of the Scottish decorated period. The nave piers, with their -beautifully-carved caps, and the mouldings of the arches are distinctly -decorated work; and the flying buttresses and pinnacles on the south -side of the nave are, without doubt, of the same period (see Figs. 766 -and 773). So also is the south wall of the transept, with its -magnificent window and tracery and its buttresses, enriched with fine -canopies and quaint figures carved as corbels (see Fig. 772). - -[Illustration: FIG. 777.--Melrose Abbey. Niche.] - -All these features bear a close affinity to the decorated work of the -nave of York Minster, erected about 1400. The flying buttresses, with -pinnacles enriched with crockets and foliaged finials (see Fig. 766); -the niches (Fig. 777), with their elaborate canopies and corbels -composed of figures of monks and angels (see Figs. 769 and 778); the -statues which formerly filled the niches, of which very few now remain; -the decorated tracery of the south transept window (see Fig. 772); and -the whole character of the work, both in its general scope and in its -details, is of fine decorated design, and vividly recalls that of York, -Beverley, and other English examples. It is not improbable that some -parts of the nave and transept were erected during the period between -the death of King Robert Bruce and the invasion of Richard II. It should -be mentioned that Bruce’s bequest was not all received till 1399, and -the operations also, probably, proceeded slowly. The doorway in the -south wall of the south transept (Fig. 779) is apparently an insertion -in older work. It is of a later style than the window above; and the -irregular setting of the masonry on each side indicates that there has -been some patching and restoration in this part of the building. Fig. -780 shows the jamb mouldings of this doorway. A passage or gallery -passed along the interior at the base of the large south window. It had -a parapet of pierced work, now destroyed, supported on a carved cornice -(Fig. 781), having angels playing on instruments introduced at -intervals. - -It is sometimes said that the north wall of the transept (Fig. 782) is -of earlier date than the rest; and, at first sight, the three simple -lights and the semicircular doors might give ground for that view. But, -on closer inspection, it is seen that the windows correspond with those -of the clerestory of the nave, and the round arches are simply one of -the peculiarities of Scottish Gothic in which that form is preserved, -especially in doorways, throughout all the periods of the style. The -long lying panel about the middle of the north wall further indicates a -late date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 778.--Melrose Abbey. Pinnacle on South Side of Nave, -with Statue of Virgin.] - -It seems to have contained a row of statues, as fourteen pedestals or -corbels still occupy its base. The small circular window in the gable, -filled with simple tracery (similar to a window at Dryburgh), is also a -late feature. - -[Illustration: FIG. 779.--Melrose Abbey. Doorway in South Transept.] - -The south chapels of the nave have apparently been added during the -repairs of the earlier part of the fifteenth century. The forms of the -flying buttresses (see Fig. 766), which extend beyond the outer wall of -the chapels so as to comprise them, show that the restoration of this -part of the nave is all part of one design; and the arms of Abbot Hunter -(Fig. 783), which occur on the niche-corbel of the east buttress, -indicate that these buttresses were probably executed towards the middle -of the fifteenth century. The tracery in the windows of the south -chapels would tend to confirm the belief that they belong to the -decorated period, but for the fact that this feature cannot be fully -relied on in Scotland as an index of date, tracery similar to this being -sometimes used at a later time. - -[Illustration: FIG. 780.--Melrose Abbey. Door Jamb in South Transept.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 781.--Melrose Abbey. Cornice under Gallery, inside -South Window of Transept.] - -There is a distinct change in the design of the transepts from that of -the nave, as if the former had been added to the latter at a later -period. - -[Illustration: FIG. 782.--Melrose Abbey. North Transept.] - -This is observable in the west wall of the north transept (see Fig. -782), but still more so in the west wall of the south transept (Fig. -784). The window nearest the nave is of a different design from that of -the one further off. The former (Fig. 785) may be older, and the latter -(which is the same as the other windows of the choir and transept) was, -probably, built at the same time as the latter. The stair turret is, -doubtless, also of this date. It may be remarked, in connection with -this point, that the bases of the two piers of the south aisle of the -nave, next the crossing (see Fig. 784), differ from those of the -remainder of the nave aisle (Fig. 786), as well as from the bases of the -east piers of the transept (Fig. 787). These bases also differ from -those of the nave piers (Fig. 788). The same Fig. also shows the -exterior base of the choir. The pier at the angle of the south aisle -with the transept has no wall-shaft to carry the vaulting, which springs -from a corbel (see Fig. 784). The vaulting at this angle is also -peculiar, and does not fit well with the aisle vaults further west, but -has a straight piece of wall built in perpendicularly for the cross rib -to stop upon (see Fig. 784). These points appear to indicate that the -piers next the crossing are older than the remainder. The vaulting -shafts of the main nave piers are somewhat unusual in design (Fig. 789), -having in their lower part the appearance of a double shaft, although -above the corbel, near the level of the capitals, they assume the form -of a triple vaulting shaft of the usual design. The same arrangement has -been copied in the transept (Fig. 790), where the piers seem to have -been carried up from old bases, as the double vaulting shaft has no -proper base, but simply buts against the round form of the ancient base -(see Fig. 787), and in some cases fits on to it awkwardly. - -[Illustration: FIG. 783.--Melrose Abbey. Abbot Hunter’s Arms.] - -Turning now to the choir, we find that the east wall and the other -eastern parts of the structure are more recent than the nave. Probably -this portion of the church (see Fig. 774) had been more damaged by -Richard II. than the nave, and required to be almost wholly rebuilt. The -style here corresponds closely with the “perpendicular” of England which -prevailed in the fifteenth century. Most of the clerestory windows of -the choir and presbytery are markedly in this style. The great eastern -window (see Fig. 774) is exceptional and unique, but it has more of the -character of perpendicular than any other style. The design of the -buttresses is slightly different from that of the south wall of the -transept (compare Figs. 772 and 774), but the niches and canopies are -very similar. The upper part of the gable consists of a series of -niches - -[Illustration: FIG. 784.--Melrose Abbey. West Side of South Transept.] - -over the window arch, which diminish as they ascend towards the apex; -and the gable coping, crowned with a pierced parapet, filled in with -quatrefoils, corresponds generally in both cases. The design of the -choir appears to have been borrowed from that of the transept, but is of -a lighter character; or possibly the latter may have been damaged in -1385, and the upper part of both gables may have been designed by the -artist who had charge of the restoration in the fifteenth century. It -will be observed that flying buttresses are continued round this part of -the structure as well as the nave. - -[Illustration: FIG. 785.--Melrose Abbey. Clerestory Window in West Wall -of South Transept.] - -As above stated, the upper portion of the choir walls has been -reconstructed at a date in the fifteenth century later than the nave. -The - -[Illustration: FIG. 786.--Melrose Abbey. - -Base of Pier, South Aisle of Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 787.--Melrose Abbey. - -Base of East Piers of Transept.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 788.--Melrose Abbey. - -Bases of Nave Piers and Base of Exterior of Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 789.--Melrose Abbey. - -Vaulting Shafts of Main Nave Piers.] - -windows here and in the clerestory of the east wall of the transept are -quite perpendicular in character, and are apparently of the same date as -the presbytery. The clerestory windows of the choir and transept (see -Figs. 775 and 771) have on the exterior arches distinct from those of -the windows on the inside of the wall, which are likewise of late -character. A change in the form of the caps of the piers is observable -in the transept (see Fig. 790), which points to their being late; while -some of the windows in the lower parts of the walls of the choir and -transept contain curvilinear tracery, thus indicating an earlier date -for the lower part than the clerestory. There seems to have been a good -deal of restoration and patching in this part of the structure. - -[Illustration: FIG. 790.--Melrose Abbey. Cap of Pier and Vaulting Shaft -in North Transept.] - -The design of the west wall of the north transept (see Fig. 782) is -different from that of the other parts of the building. Owing to the -position of the cloister and to there being no aisle on this side, the -place of the main piers and arches is occupied by a blank wall. The -clerestory windows, however, are of the same design as the rest of the -older church. The wall ribs of the vaulting include two windows in each; -and the space between the windows is occupied by two niches, each -carried up from a shaft, with late canopies, containing statues of St. -Peter and St. Paul--the former having the keys and the latter holding -his sword. These are the best preserved statues in the church, but they -are not of very remarkable workmanship. - -The building or restoration of the eastern part of the edifice seems, -from its style, to have been carried out towards the middle of the -fifteenth century. The vaulting of the south transept appears to have -been erected by Abbot Hunter about the same time. On one of the -keystones of the vault of the south transept are carved the Hunter -arms--viz., three hunting horns, with a crosier, and the letters A. H. -This fixes the date of that part of the vaulting about 1450-60, and -probably more of the vaulting in the eastern part of the nave may have -been carried out at that epoch. It will be observed that the vaults all -contain, besides the main and ridge ribs, subsidiary ribs, or -tiercerons, indicating a similarity to English examples. - -[Illustration: FIG. 791.--Melrose Abbey. Abbot Hunter’s Arms on Buttress -in Transept.] - -The vaulting of the presbytery (see Fig. 775) is peculiar, and points to -a somewhat later time. It consists of a series of ribs spread over the -surface of a pointed barrel vault, so as to form a definite pattern. -These ribs produce a very rich effect, but they are a departure from the -principles of true groined vaulting. This system was introduced in -England at a late period, and led gradually to fan tracery. In the -method of vaulting, adopted in late English work, the ribs are no longer -relied on, as in genuine Gothic, as the strengthening nerves or centres -which sustain the panels of the vault. They become mere ornaments on the -surface of plain barrel or intersecting vaults, such as those used in -Roman architecture. The vaults of late architecture in England (although -ornamented with ribs) are thus constructed on the same principles as -those of the pointed barrel vaults of late Scottish churches (of which -numerous examples will be given hereafter), the only difference being -that the latter are generally left plain, although occasionally enriched -with ornamental surface ribs. Very fine examples of vaulting similar to -that of the presbytery of Melrose may be seen at Winchester -Cathedral[134] and other English examples of the fifteenth century. - -The south chapels to the west of the fifth buttress west from the -transept, on which buttress another specimen of Abbot Hunter’s arms -(Fig. 791) is engraved, are of comparatively late date. This buttress -belongs to the earlier part of the nave, and the chapel seems to have -been repaired when the additional chapels to the west were erected. -Besides the three hunting horns in the shield of Abbot Hunter in the -examples above mentioned, the arms engraved on the fifth buttress -contain two crosiers saltierwise, and the initials A. H. on the right -and left; also, in chief a rose, and in base a mason’s mell, for -Melrose. The work in the chapels to the west is inferior to that of -those to the eastward, although copied from them. The chapels each -contain an enriched piscina (Fig. 792); and these are so inferior in -style of workmanship as to lead to the belief that they were inserted -after the chapels were built. One of them contains the initials of Abbot -William Turnbull, whose date is the beginning of the sixteenth century. -A late piscina (Fig. 793) has also been inserted in the south transept. - -[Illustration: FIG. 792.--Melrose Abbey. - -Piscina in South Chapel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 793.--Melrose Abbey. - -Piscina in South Transept.] - -Work in the nave and in the south chapels was apparently in progress -during the reign of James IV., as the royal arms (Fig. 794), with the -letters I. Q. (Jacobus Quartus), and the date 1505 on the westmost -buttress testify. - -On the south side of the cloister is the very charming doorway (Fig. -795) which leads into the church. It is, as is very usual, circular -headed, and enriched with a deep bay containing bold mouldings, which in -England would, from the square arrangement of their orders, be regarded -as of early date. But the style of the richly carved and undercut caps -and the foliaged hood mould clearly points to a later period than would -at first sight be supposed, certainly not earlier than the nave. To the -right of this, and along the east wall of the cloister (see Fig. 795), -are arched recesses of a late style; and in the south wall is an arcade -of trefoil form, with nail-head enrichments. The latter might also at -first sight be regarded as early work, but closer inspection shows that -it is an example of the late revival of early forms which prevailed -towards the close of the Gothic epoch. - -Not a fragment remains to show how the cloister walk was enclosed. The -roof has evidently been of wood, from the corbels for the wall plate and -the holes cut in the wall to receive the timbers (see Fig. 795). These -probably rested on a series of pillars and arches running round the -outer side of the cloister walk, but whether of stone or timber cannot -now be determined. It seems not unlikely, from its entire disappearance, -that the outer arcade may have been of timber. - -[Illustration: FIG. 794.--Melrose Abbey. - -Royal Arms on West Buttress.] - -It is stated in Wade’s _History of Melrose Abbey_[135] that the arcade -of the cloister formerly extended 150 feet each way. The wall of the -cloister is now reduced to the portions which abut against the nave and -transept, being 50 feet on the east side and 80 feet on the south side. -The former side contains a wall arcade of seven arches (see Fig. 795). -These are of the form called drop arches, with crocketed ogee hood -moulding, and have plain spandrils above, over which there runs a -straight cornice, enriched with flowers and shells of all descriptions, -very beautifully carved. It is of these Sir Walter truly says-- - - “Nor herb nor floweret glistened there - But was carved in the cloister arches as fair.” - -Of the tower (see Fig. 766) over the crossing, which is 84 feet high, -only the western wall, with small portions of the north and south walls, -now exists. It rises one story in height above the nave roof, and is - -[Illustration: FIG. 795.--Melrose Abbey. Wall Arcades and North Doorway -in Cloister.] - -crowned with a parapet filled in with quatrefoils, and resting on an -enriched and corbelled cornice. At each angle is a shaft rising from a -corbel. The three windows are simple, with pointed arch and cusped -trefoil, similar to those of the clerestory of the nave and north -transept. The tower has, doubtless, been erected about the same time as -the transept. - -The above description of the various portions of the abbey suffices to -show how full of interest it is to the student of architecture as well -as to the artist. - -We have drawn attention to the more prominent features, but it is -impossible for us here to enter fully into all the multiplicity of -details which such an elaborate structure offers for observation and -study. - -No building in Scotland affords such an extensive and almost -inexhaustible field for minute investigation and enjoyment of detail as -this. Whether we consider the great variety of the beautifully -sculptured figures of monks and angels playing on musical instruments -(Fig. 796), or displaying “the scrolls which teach us to live and die,” -or turn to the elaborate canopies and beautiful pinnacles of the -buttresses (see Figs. 769 and 778), or examine the rich variety of -foliage and other sculptures on the capitals of the nave and the doorway -and arches of the cloisters; or if, again, we take a more general view -of the different parts of the edifice from the numerous fine standpoints -from which it can be so advantageously contemplated, we know of no -Scottish building which surpasses Melrose either in the picturesqueness -of its general aspect, or in the profusion or value of its details. - -[Illustration: FIG. 796.--Melrose Abbey. Figures of Monks and Angels.] - -It occupies an important position also historically, as it in part -supplies an admirable example of that decorated architecture the -existence of which in this country has been so often denied, but of -which, we trust, a sufficient number of examples are now provided to -render that reproach to Scottish architecture no longer justifiable. - -We have to thank the fine red sandstone of the district, of which the -church is built, for the perfect preservation of all the details of the -structure. These remain, even in the minutest carving, as perfect and -complete as the day they were executed. - -In the south transept (see Fig. 784) are two remarkable inscriptions, -which have given rise to much speculation. One of these is carved over -the doorway in the west wall which gives access to the wheel stair, and -part of the inscription is carried down one side for want of room. It -runs as follows:-- - - Sa ye Cumpas gays evyn about - Sua trouth and laute sall do but diute - Behalde to ye hende q. Johne Morvo. - -The other inscription is carved on a tablet in the wall on the south -side of the same door, viz.:-- - - John Morow sum tym callit was I - and born in Parysse certainly - And had in keeping al masoun werk - Of Santandroys ye hye kyrk - Of Glasgw Melros and Paslay - Of Nyddysdayll and of Galway - I pray to God and Mari bath - And sweet S. John kep this haly kirk frae skaith. - -In the centre of the former inscription is a sunk panel containing a -shield with two masons’ compasses, arranged somewhat like a saltier, and -beneath a figure resembling a fleur-de-lys. - -The late Dr. John Smith, in the _Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society -of Scotland_, considers these inscriptions as applying to one man, who -may have been the master mason of the building. But Mr. Pinches, in his -account of the abbey, mentions that John Murdo, or Morow, was engaged in -building a church in Galloway in 1508. It thus seems likely that these -inscriptions are not earlier than that date, and have been added to the -building after its completion. - -Since the foregoing description of Melrose Abbey was written, we have -had the pleasure of reading the very interesting work by Mr. Peter -M‘Gregor Chalmers, called _A Scots Mediæval Architect_, in which an -attempt is made to identify the JOHN MOROW of the inscription in the -south transept, and to trace his work in the various localities where he -is stated to have “all mason work in keeping.” - -This book shows a great amount of careful investigation and intelligent -observation in connection with a number of our ecclesiastical -structures, especially Melrose Abbey; and we have to acknowledge our -indebtedness to Mr. Chalmers for some valuable hints, which are duly -noted in their places as they occur. - -The inscription on John Morow’s tablet states that he “had in keeping -all mason work of St. Andrews, the High Kirk of Glasgow, Melrose and -Paisley, of Niddisdale and of Galloway.” - -From this statement it is generally assumed by Mr. Chalmers and other -writers on the subject that John Morow was the architect engaged to -carry out all the architectural work required at the above places during -the term of his official appointment. - -Mr. Chalmers conducts the reader to the various places which John Morow -“had in keeping;” and wherever he finds a fine specimen of somewhat -late work, he confidently attributes its design to that “Scots Mediæval -Architect.” - -At Paisley he thinks he can trace his handiwork in a panel which -formerly stood in the abbey wall, built by Abbot Shaw in 1485, from a -certain resemblance in the form of the letters and phraseology employed -to those of the Melrose tablet. - -At Glasgow Cathedral and Lincluden College the design of the rood screen -at each and the chief part of “Blackadder’s Aisle,” and of other details -in the former, is assigned to John Morow. - -At St. Andrews he believes him to be traceable in the carving of certain -coats of arms; and at Melrose Abbey a great part of the later work is -attributed to him. - -At Whithorn Priory and Glenluce Abbey, which are within John Morow’s -province, some work is pointed out which might be of his date; but as it -is somewhat poor in character, that “Mediæval Architect” is presumed to -have been busy elsewhere, and to have left the job to inferior hands. - -It is admitted by Mr. Chalmers that the work at Melrose Abbey must have, -undoubtedly, extended over more than half a century, and would, in all -likelihood, exceed the compass of one man’s lifetime. But as there are -two inscriptions at Melrose to “John Morow,” or Morvo, Mr. Chalmers has -no difficulty in deciding that they are to two members of the same -family, both architects, who, he believes, carried on the works at the -abbey from before the middle of the fifteenth century till some time in -the sixteenth century. - -The inscription on the lintel of the doorway is, therefore, supposed to -be in memory of John Morvo, the assumed grandfather of the John Morow -whose tablet is inserted in the west wall adjoining--the earlier parts -of the work having been carried out by the former, and the later parts -by the latter. - -But Mr. Chalmers’ fancy is not limited to the invention of these great -architects as illustrious members of the family of the Morows. He would -also fain attribute to them other honours and distinctions. - -He therefore assumes that John Morow the younger was identical with John -Murray, of Faulohill, a favourite at the Court of James IV., from whom -he received many gifts, which favours he requited by rebellion, and by -finally appearing on the scene as the chief actor in the ballad of the -outlaw Murray; of which ballad he is further believed to have been the -author! And, to crown this strange eventful history, we are told that -the success of this architect so excited the jealousy of the nobles that -he was waylaid and assassinated by them. - -Here we have disclosed, if not a history, at least a fiction of the most -thrilling interest in the life and death of the “Mediæval Architect,” -John Morow; and so full of invention is this flight of fancy, that we -trust its introduction here will be excused as a relief to the dry -details of prosaic architectural descriptions. - -We have no desire to disturb this touching romance; but we feel called -upon to indicate some points which may be regarded as worthy of -consideration before it is accepted as historically or architecturally -consistent with fact. - -However beautiful this dream may be, and much as the author is entitled -to praise for his careful study of the buildings he describes (which, we -gladly acknowledge, is considerable), we fear that his theory will be -found, on examination, to rest on a very weak and unreliable foundation. - -The following are some objections which at once present themselves:-- - -1. Without entering into the question as between the “master of the -work” and the “master mason,” or attempting to prove by whom mediæval -buildings were designed, we believe it has been distinctly shown that -there was in Scotland, about A.D. 1500, no one recognised as “the -architect” apart from the builder. The “master of the works” was a fully -recognised and salaried officer, and would, we believe, be more likely -to receive a tablet such as this than the master mason.[136] - -2. But supposing that John Morow, to whom the tablet was erected, was a -master mason. It is assumed that John Morow was a Scot. The inscription -emphasises the statement that he was “born in Paris certainly,” from -which it may be fairly inferred that his French birth and, probably, -education had to do with his appointment. This might indicate that he -was a French master mason; and it is known that many French master -masons were employed under James IV. and V. - -3. It is assumed that the name Morow is identical with Murray (an idea -which was suggested, in 1854, by the late Dr. John Smith[137]), but this -is entirely hypothetical. Besides, there is absolutely no evidence -produced to show any connection between John Morow and John Murray of -Faulohill. - -4. Nor can it be shown that the latter had any connection with building -or architecture. - -Let us now glance at the descriptions of the various portions of Melrose -Abbey which are assumed by Mr. Chalmers to be the work of John Morow. - -There seems to be nothing in Mr. Chalmers’ views antagonistic to the -general divisions of Scottish mediæval architecture adopted in this -book; indeed, his observations seem to confirm these divisions, which -assign to the decorated work in Scotland the period before 1460, and to -the late or third pointed work the subsequent period. - -Supposing this to be correct, we suspect that some of the work which Mr -Chalmers attributes to John Morow, and of the date of about 1490 to -1510, is in the earlier category. At Melrose, as we have seen, the -decorated work is before 1460, and the later work is quite inferior. -Hence the necessity for the introduction of the earlier John Morvo, to -whom we have no objections, if his existence could be proved. At all -events, it must be conceded that the earlier or decorated work was not -executed by the “Scots Mediæval Architect,” John Morow. - -The same remark will, we think, be found to apply to the rood screen at -Lincluden,[138] and to that at Glasgow,[139] the work at both of which -is very superior to the sixteenth century work at Melrose, and -therefore, in all probability, considerably earlier than John Morow’s -time. - -We observe that Mr. Chalmers considers the choir and presbytery of -Melrose, in which a strong similarity to perpendicular work is -perceptible, to be of the time of James IV., and sarcastically remarks -on what he considers the unworthy exaltation of the king and his queen -to the place of honour on the apex of the east gable of a building -dedicated to God. But this is an entire assumption. There is no proof -that these figures represent James IV. and Queen Margaret Tudor. The -figures in the east gable appear to us to represent the coronation of -the Blessed Virgin, a frequent subject in similar positions. - -[Illustration: FIG. 797.--Boss from York Minster.[140]] - -We have already remarked on the similarity of much of the work at -Melrose to that of York Minster, and there occurs in one of the bosses -of the latter a representation of the coronation of the Blessed Virgin -(Fig. 797), in which the figures are almost identical in every respect -with those in the east gable of Melrose choir. The attitude is precisely -the same in both. At York, the Saviour is represented as having a beard -and long flowing hair. He is crowned, and holds up the right hand in -benediction, while in the left hand he supports the globe. The Virgin -holds her hands palm to palm, in the attitude of adoration, while an -angel places the crown on her head, and on the other side an angel -throws the censer. Another similar example from Dore Abbey is shown in -Fig. 798.[141] - -The figures at Melrose are somewhat wasted by exposure, but a comparison -of the above sketches with that of the east gable (Fig. 774) will show -that, while there is no ground for the assumption that the latter -represents James IV. and Queen Margaret, there is every reason to -believe that it personifies the more appropriate subject of the -coronation of the Blessed Virgin. In the series of niches on each side -there still remain kneeling figures of adoring angels, which, while most -appropriate to the latter subject, would be quite out of place in the -former. - -[Illustration: FIG. 798.--Boss from Dore Abbey.] - -Mr Chalmers gives some interesting details and observations regarding -the chapels in the east aisle of the transept. He points out that these -were probably dedicated to the saints whose statues stand, or stood, on -the west side of the transept, opposite each chapel. Thus, in the north -transept, the chapels would be those of St. Peter and St. Paul, whose -statues still survive in the west wall; while those in the south -transept would be dedicated to St. Andrew and St. John. Mr. Chalmers -suggests that the statue of St. Andrew (see Fig. 769), which previously -stood opposite his chapel in the south transept, was removed and placed -in a niche in one of the south buttresses, the pedestal being heightened -to receive it, as the statue was too short for the niche. The south -chapel of the transept he believed to be that of St. John. John Morow’s -tablet is opposite this chapel, and his prayer to “Sweet St. John” is, -therefore, most appropriate. Mr. Chalmers points out that the chapels at -the east end of Glasgow Cathedral are dedicated to the same saints and -in the above order. - -[Illustration: Melrose Abbey.] - - -LINCLUDEN COLLEGE, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. - -This small, but valuable, example of Scottish decorated architecture is -pleasantly situated on a quiet level holm at the junction of the water -of Cluden with the river Nith, about one mile north from Dumfries. -Although the surviving portions of the church are fragmentary, they -exhibit many beautiful details of the Scottish decorated style. - -Originally the site was occupied by a convent of Black or Benedictine -nuns, which was founded in the twelfth century by Uchtred, son of -Fergus, Lord of Galloway, who endowed the convent with lands.[142] Of -this establishment only trifling remains can be traced. The edifice -whose ruins now exist was founded anew, about the end of the fourteenth -century, by Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas and Lord of Galloway. He -is said to have expelled the nuns on account of their “insolence;” but -it is also recorded that he acquired considerable possessions by the -transaction. Be this as it may, the earl showed his devotion by -rebuilding the church and endowing a new establishment. The new -foundation consisted of a collegiate church, with the necessary domestic -structures. It comprised at first a provost and twelve canons, Elise, or -Elias, being appointed the first provost in 1404. The second provost was -named Cairns, and under him the college consisted of eight canons, -twenty-four bedesmen, and a chaplain.[143] The surviving remains of the -domestic buildings for the accommodation of the inmates extend in the -form of a long wing to the north of the church (Fig. 799). These now -consist of a series of vaulted cellars, dimly lighted with one small -loophole in each, and entered by a few steps down from the ground level. -On the floor above the cellars there was probably a large hall; and at -the north end a portion rose into a keep or tower, which probably formed -the residence of the provost (Fig. 800). In Grose’s _Views_, drawn in -1789, the tower is shown much more complete than it now is, a large part -having tumbled down a good many years ago. The staircase turret on the -west side was also much higher at the end of last century, having fallen -so recently as 1851. It bore the royal arms and the arms of Provost -William Stewart. These out-buildings would thus appear to have been -built about the beginning of the sixteenth century. Foundations of other -structures are observable, which probably formed a courtyard to the -west; while, on the eastern side, the outline of a wall which enclosed a -considerable space of ground can be traced in the grass-grown mounds. -There is a high mound adjoining to the south-east, which had a winding -path leading to the summit, and from which an extensive view can be -obtained over the level country around. - -It is believed that Lincluden was a frequent residence of the Earls of -Douglas. They were the Wardens of the Western Marches; and a parliament -of the Border chiefs was held here in 1468 by Earl William, in order to -revise the laws of Border warfare. - -[Illustration: FIG. 799.--Lincluden College. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 800.--Lincluden College. View from South-East.] - -Many of the Provosts of Lincluden were men of distinction. For instance, -John Cameron (who died in 1446), besides holding important offices under -the Crown, was afterwards made Bishop of Glasgow; John Winchester, who -died in 1458, became Bishop of Moray; Andrew Stewart, who died in 1501, -was appointed to the Bishopric of Moray; and William Stewart (1545) -became Bishop of Aberdeen. Robert Douglas, the last Provost, enjoyed the -benefice for forty years after the Reformation. Like other incumbents -about that period, he endeavoured to dispose of the property for his own -benefit, but was opposed by the prebendaries. Some of the latter -continued to occupy the college till 1567;[144] and mass was sung in the -church so late as 1586, under sanction of Lord Maxwell. The reversion of -the provostry fell to William Douglas of Drumlanrig, grand-nephew of the -last Provost. Lincluden was erected into a temporal barony in 1565, and -subsequently passed into the hands of the Earl of Nithsdale, whose -descendant, Captain Maxwell of Terregles, has done much for the repair -and preservation of what remains of this charming old building. - -A few traces of the original Norman masonry have been discovered. The -church seems to have occupied the same site as the existing building, -and to have consisted of a nave, 56 feet by 20 feet, and a choir of the -same width. There was a north aisle, 9 feet wide, with cylindrical -pillars and a depressed arcade. A south aisle probably also existed. The -western door (4½ feet wide) can be traced, which had a semicircular arch -of several orders. These facts were all ascertained during recent -excavations.[145] - -The Plan (see Fig. 799) shows the arrangements of the church of the -fifteenth century and the other buildings, so far as preserved. The -church consisted of a choir, which is in a fair state of preservation, -except the roof and vaulting, the former of which has disappeared since -Grose’s time. It is separated by a stone screen, with a wide doorway, -from the nave and transept, which are greatly demolished, only the walls -of the south transept and part of that of the south aisle of the nave -now remaining. The choir is without aisles, and consists of three bays. -It is 44 feet in length by 19 feet 6 inches in breadth internally. The -nave and transept measured about 56 feet in length from the choir -screen, and the nave appears to have contained three bays, with a window -in each. It had an aisle on the south side. The responds of the piers -still partly exist at the east and west ends. The nave and transept were -about the same size as the original nave--viz., 56 feet long, the former -being 20 feet and the aisle 12 feet broad. - -The transept was without aisles, and was 14 feet in width, and projected -12 feet 6 inches beyond the nave aisle. There are foundations traceable -on the north side of the nave, but it is not clear to what buildings -these belonged. It is not improbable, however, that there may have - -[Illustration: FIG. 801.--Lincluden College. Door to Sacristy, and -Monument to Margaret, Countess of Douglas.] - -been a north aisle. The sacristy is entered from the north side of the -choir. The door is very ornate, and contained, on two shields, the arms -of Archibald the Grim and his lady (Fig. 801). The sacristy was covered -with groined vaulting, and had an entrance from the court of the -domestic apartments. - -[Illustration: FIG. 802.--Lincluden College. Choir.] - -The details of the architecture of the choir are of great beauty (Fig. -802). It has often been remarked that they are unusually large and -massive, as if intended for a larger structure, which gives them great -picturesqueness of effect. The corbels which carry the vaulting shafts -are carved in the form of angels, some playing musical instruments. The -caps of the shafts are richly ornamented with foliage and armorial -bearings; and as these are well preserved in the durable red stone of -the district, the heraldic decorations tell the story of the intimate -connection of the Douglas family with the structure (Fig. 803). - -[Illustration: FIG. 803.--Lincluden College. Caps of Shafts.] - -Large pointed windows, originally filled with fine geometric tracery -(Figs. 800 and 804), are inserted in all the bays of the south side of -the nave and choir and in the gable walls of the choir and transept. The -design of the tracery may be easily restored from the surviving -fragments (see Billings). The windows of the north wall of the choir are -placed high in the wall and are of small dimensions, owing to the large -monument in that wall, and also because part of the wall was covered by -the roof of the sacristy. The mullions and tracery are all very massive -and of purer geometric form than is generally met with in Scotland. The -somewhat debased tracery common in later Scottish structures is here -entirely absent. - -The exterior of the structure (see Fig. 800) is simple, but chaste, in -design, and accords well with that of the interior. The base mouldings -and the beautifully-carved cornice are decorated in character. - -The splendid monument in the north wall of the choir (see Fig. 801) was -erected in memory of Margaret, daughter of Robert III. and wife of -Archibald, 4th Earl of Douglas, son of Archibald the Grim. He went to -France in 1423, with a large retinue, to the aid of Charles VII., by -whom he was created Duke of Touraine. He was killed at the battle of -Verneuil, in 1424. The countess survived till about 1440. She made -grants to the college in 1429, which were confirmed by her brother, -James I. She also founded a chapel, and increased the number of inmates -from thirteen to thirty-four. The monument is evidently part of the -original design. The choir would, therefore, appear to have been in - -[Illustration: FIG. 804.--Lincluden College. Chancel Arch, Rood Screen, -and Nave.] - -progress during the countess’s lifetime, and may thus not have been -completed till the first half of the fifteenth century was well -advanced. In confirmation of this, we find that the arms of Provost -Haliburton (see Fig. 803) are carved on the south wall, and he was -superior of the college about 1430. The architecture of the church -corresponds in style with the decorated work usual in Scotland in the -first half of the fifteenth century, of which it forms an important -example. - -The monument to the Countess of Douglas is amongst the finest specimens -of that kind of structure in Scotland. It is, like the other features of -the church, of large size for the small building in which it is erected. -The principal arch is semicircular in form, a peculiarity of common -occurrence at all periods in this country. It is very richly ornamented -with running foliage and small shafts and mouldings, and the inner arch -is enriched with a large traceried border, elaborately foiled and -cusped, while the outer label is decorated with carved crockets, and is -carried up with an ogee curve to a large foliaged finial on top. The -sides are bounded by buttresses of light and simple form, finished with -crocketed finials, and a bold cornice, enriched with leaf ornaments, -runs along the top. The base which enclosed the sarcophagus displays an -arcade of nine trefoiled arches, each containing a shield, on which the -arms of the family were formerly blazoned, but they are now much decayed -by the weather. - -“The Lordship of Annandale is represented by its saltier and chief; a -lion rampant, the cognisance of the M‘Dowalls, typifies Galloway; three -stars show the Moray arms, which the founder of Lincluden acquired by -marriage; three stars of the first, with a man’s heart below, indicate -the escutcheon of the Douglases when rising nearer the political zenith. -* * * One of the shields displays a fess chequé, surmounted by a band -ingrailed; another, the same emblem, without the band, these telling, in -heraldic language, of the Royal Stewarts’ connection with the Douglases, -the chequered fess illustrating the old tally method by which stewards -kept their accounts.”[146] - -[Illustration: FIG. 805.--Lincluden College. Cups or Chalices over Main -Arch.] - -Within the triangle formed by the label over the main arch there occurs -a very remarkable design, consisting of three cups or chalices (Fig. -805), each accompanied with a star following one another round the -triangle. As Grose suggests, these probably represent the insignia of -the earl’s office as “panitarius” or cupbearer to the king. Some letters -are engraved at the angles, but they are difficult to decipher. At the -back of the monument are carved the following inscriptions, “A l’aide -de Dieu,” and, lower down, “Hic jacet Dña Margareta Regis Scotiæ filia -quondam Comitessa de Douglas Dña Gallovidiæ et Vallis Annandiæ.” - -The tomb has been rifled, and is now empty, and the effigy of the -countess, which still reposed on the monument in Pennant’s time (1772), -has now disappeared.[147] - -On the opposite side of the choir are the triple sedilia and piscina -(see Fig. 802), both fine works, but sadly mutilated. They are of the -usual style of the period, and are adorned with much carving of a -similar description to that of the tomb. - -Behind the place of the high altar, three large plain corbels are -inserted in the wall (see Fig. 802). These seem to have carried a -reredos of carved stone, and some fragments of a sculptured stone, such -as would have suited for this purpose, still survive (Fig. 806). - -[Illustration: FIG. 806.--Lincluden College. Fragments of Sculptured -Stone.] - -As in other churches, the choir was reserved for the ecclesiastics, -being separated from the nave by a stone screen (see Fig. 804), in -which, however, there is a large doorway, six feet wide, which was -furnished with an iron grating, through which the interior could be seen -from the nave. The upper part of this screen formed a loft, approached -by a turnpike stair. The loft, no doubt, carried the rood. It is wider -than the screen wall, and is supported by three corbelled courses, -decorated with carved work of a large and massive character. The two -upper rows represent angels, with wings, and having their hands crossed -in front of the breast. The lower row shows a number of groups of -figures, much damaged, but apparently representing scenes from the life -of Christ. The large arch over the screen formed the western termination -of the choir.[148] - -It will be observed that the springing of the groined vaulting of the -choir (which is now demolished, or, possibly, was never completed) is -still visible, rising from the caps of the vaulting shafts (see Fig. -802). The groining, like the other features of the structure, was of a -complete character, corresponding to the perfected style of the -architecture. It comprised the usual transverse, diagonal, and wall -ribs, and had also, as is common in English examples, intermediate ribs, -or tiercerons and ridge ribs. These can all be traced in the remaining -fragments. But what is more remarkable is that the remains of another -and independent tier of vaulting can be observed above the groined roof. -This is evident from the Sketch (see Fig. 802), which shows the -springing of an upper plain pointed barrel vault, strengthened at -intervals with transverse ribs. Grose compares this with the vaulting of -King’s College Chapel, Cambridge; but he has mistaken the purpose of the -different vaults. That of Cambridge was introduced in order to carry the -pendants of the fan-vaulting below, whereas that of Lincluden has -evidently been built to support a stone roof above. Plain pointed barrel -vaults are very common in Scottish churches, and are invariably -introduced for the purpose of supporting a roof of overlapping stone -slabs. Numerous examples occur in this work, and roofs of that -description were also very usual in the castles--as at Borthwick, &c. -Generally, the barrel vault is visible from the interior; but in the -present instance, the building being a decorated one, a roof of groined -vaulting has been intended under the plain vault. - -Grose speaks of a third roof of timber over the barrel vault, and both -his drawing and Pennant’s indicate a turf or straw covering. But that -could hardly be original. The building was, in their time, almost as -ruinous as now, and it is very likely that the stone slabs of the roof -had been removed, and a temporary wooden roof substituted, or a covering -of turf laid over the barrel vault, which, perhaps, at that time still -remained. - -The space between the two vaults would form a chamber, which may have -been used as a sleeping apartment. The window in the gable is still -visible. A similar apartment, with a window, seems to have existed over -the vaulting of the south transept, and both appear to have entered from -the turret stair in the wall between the nave and choir. - -A similar roof to the above occurs at St. Mirren’s Aisle, Paisley Abbey, -where the two vaults, with a small chamber between them, still exist. - -The ornamental work of the nave (see Fig. 804) is similar to that of the -choir, and of the same date. The vaulting shafts are carried on brackets -carved with the figures of angels, and the caps are of similar massive -design to those of the choir. The tracery of the windows was of the same -geometric or decorated style as that of the choir. The foundations of -the west end of the church are quite distinct, but the foundations on -the north side of the nave seem to have belonged to later buildings, as -they do not harmonise with the design of the church. - -The domestic wing has already been noticed. The cellars of the basement -enter from the courtyard. Some of these have ambries in the walls. An -octagonal turret, about the centre, contained the entrance doorway and a -wheel stair to the upper floor. It was also provided with the shotholes -usual in the sixteenth century. - -Another turret, in the angle next the sacristy, contained a private door -to the latter, and, probably, another stair to the upper floor. The -provost’s tower has evidently, from Pennant’s view, contained at least -four stories; but it is now much decayed and demolished. These buildings -present very much the appearance of a secular dwelling or castle of the -sixteenth century. - -The whole edifice being now surrounded with an iron railing, and -properly looked after, it is hoped that this interesting specimen of -Scottish ecclesiastical architecture will be long preserved from further -ruin. - - -FORTROSE CATHEDRAL, ROSS-SHIRE. - -According to tradition, the origin of the Church of Rosemarkie, the -first cathedral of Ross, is ascribed to St. Boniface, otherwise known as -Albanus Kiritinus or Cuiritan. This saint is now supposed to have been -an Irish monk named Cuiritan, who, in the seventh century, adopted the -Roman ecclesiastical forms, and, coming to Scotland, endeavoured to -introduce them there. The legend of Bonifacius is evidently connected -with the revolution by which King Nectan and the Picts conformed to -Rome. After visiting various places in Pictland, and being well received -by King Nectan, St. Boniface founded churches at Restennet[149] and -Invergowrie, which were dedicated to St. Peter. Finally, he landed at -Rosemarkie, on the north side of the Moray Frith, the site of an old -Columban monastery founded by Lugadius or Moluog of Lismore, where, -also, he built a church, and named it after St. Peter and -Bonifacius.[150] - -On this site, which is just opposite the long spit of land which runs -far across the Frith from the south side at Fort George, there arose in -later times a small town, while a larger ecclesiastical establishment, -called the Chanonry, was afterwards founded about one mile further -west. These two places were united under one charter by James II., in -1444, with the name of Fortrose, and the two small towns still remain in -the same relative position. - -The Culdee College continued at Rosemarkie till the Romanising -influences of Queen Margaret’s sons were brought to bear upon it. In -1126 there occurs the first mention of the Bishop of Rosemarkie in a -charter of David I. It seems probable that here, as at other places, -King David converted the existing Culdee College into a chapter, and -appointed the abbot, or prior, as the bishop of the diocese. The Bishop -of Ross has this peculiarity, that he takes his title from the province, -and not from the town, where he holds his see. - -When Argyle had been brought under the royal power, the whole of North -Argyle was, in 1221, added to the Earldom of Ross, and the diocese was -largely increased by the addition to it of the churches in that county. - -Up to 1227 the Chapter of Rosemarkie was small, consisting of the dean, -the treasurer, the archdeacon, and four canons; but in 1235 Pope Gregory -IX. gave leave to the bishop to found and endow new canonries, and -increase the endowment of the other four.[151] - -It seems probable that at the period of the enlargement of the chapter -the cathedral was moved from Rosemarkie to Chanonry, or Fortrose. -Although most of the buildings which would have fixed the date of this -change are now removed, there still remains one structure which, from -its style, seems to be of the first half of the thirteenth century. This -is the undercroft of the sacristy, an erection the enlargement of which -would be called for by the increased size of the chapter. - -The cathedral then constructed was a large and important building. It -stood on level ground not far from the Moray Frith, over which it -commanded a fine prospect. The ruins still occupy the central position -in the town of Fortrose, and stand in a large open plot of grassy -ground, where they can be well seen, and where they are well cared for. - -The existing portions of the cathedral are very fragmentary. The greater -part of the church and the houses of the bishop and chapter have -entirely disappeared. All that now remains consists of the south aisle -of the nave and the sacristy or undercroft of the chapter house. So -completely have the nave and choir of the church been swept away, that -Mr. Muir was led to imagine that the existing south transept was the -main body of the cathedral, and that it had only had an aisle on the -north side.[152] But the excavations undertaken, about twenty-five years -ago, by the Commissioners of Her Majesty’s Woods and Forests, laid bare -the foundations of the choir and nave, and showed that the cathedral had -been a complete structure, with a choir 85 feet in length, and a nave -100 feet in length, the width of both being 25 feet. - -What the style of the edifice was we have now no means of knowing; but -it may be assumed that, like the sacristy, it was built in the first -pointed style, which prevailed in the thirteenth century, when the see -is believed to have been removed from Rosemarkie to Fortrose. - -Mr. Muir may well have been deceived with regard to the existing south -aisle, for it is a structure of unusual size and splendour, and, in its -present solitary condition, presents rather the appearance of a complete -church, with distinct choir and nave, than that of a nave aisle. It is -composed of two parts (Fig. 807), an eastern portion, which measures 41 -feet 6 inches in length by 21 feet broad, and a western portion, 56 feet -6 inches long by 14 feet 9 inches broad, with a bell turret projecting -at the angle where the two parts meet. - -[Illustration: FIG. 807.--Fortrose Cathedral. Plan.] - -Both of the divisions are elegantly vaulted in the English style, with -ridge ribs and tiercerons or intermediate ribs. On the north side is a -range of clustered pillars and arches, forming five bays, which -separated the aisle from the nave. Some of the arch openings are -enriched with canopied monuments. - -The east end (Fig. 808) contained a large traceried window of five -lights, and some fragments of the tracery still cling to the arch. The -window is rather short for its width, being kept high, so as to admit of -an altar and reredos. The south wall has also been pierced with -traceried windows, now, unfortunately, mutilated. The other division -towards the west end contains a doorway, formerly sheltered by a large -porch, now demolished. - -The exterior (Fig. 809) presents, at the east and west ends, the -appearance of complete gables, with a span roof, not a lean-to roof, as -is usual over aisles. The buttresses are of good form, and the enriched -cornice still survives. The parapet is gone, but at the west end a wide -stone gutter, or alure, supported on corbels and roofed in, still -remains. The windows of the western portion are less elaborate than -those of the eastern portion. - -[Illustration: FIG. 808.--Fortrose Cathedral. East End of South Aisle.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 809.--Fortrose Cathedral. View from South-East.] - -In the angle between the two divisions of the aisle a staircase and bell -turret are erected. Rising from a square base the walls are changed by a -set-off on each angle into an octagon; a balcony is carried round the -turret, and the top is finished with a modern pointed roof. - -The whole of the architecture of the aisle is of unusually good design, -and the building is altogether quite unique and full of beauty and -interest. - -Not the least remarkable feature in the structure is the range of -canopied monuments which stand between the pillars on the north side. In -connection with these monuments, the history of the edifice has been -ingeniously traced by Mr. Chisholm-Batten.[153] The eastmost monument -(see Fig. 808) is traditionally stated to be that of a Countess of Ross; -and Mr. Chisholm-Batten, from various indications in the building, shows -that it was, in all probability, the Countess Eufamia, daughter and -heiress of the Earl of Ross, who erected this aisle, and is buried under -the eastern monument therein. This lady was possessed of ample means to -erect such a splendid structure. She married, first, in 1366, Walter de -Leslie, and succeeded, in 1372, to the estates of Ross. Leslie died in -1382; and in the same year the countess espoused the Earl of Buchan, -better known as the “Wolf of Badenoch.” He died in 1394; and thereafter -the countess took the veil, and became abbess of the convent of Elcho. - -Mr. Chisholm-Batten has detected the arms of Leslie, her first husband -(on a bend three buckles), on one of the bosses of the vaulting of the -western division; while on another boss is carved a bull’s-head -caboshed, the arms of Bishop Bulloch, who occupied the see from 1420 to -1439. - -As the style of the architecture accords with these dates, the inference -is that the western part of the aisle was erected either by the countess -or her son, Alexander Leslie, Earl of Ross, and completed during the -episcopate of Bishop Bulloch, and that the monument to the countess was -erected by her son in the noble aisle which she had built, and in which -she, no doubt, took great pride. The death of the countess took place -before 1398. The aisle would thus date about the end of the fourteenth -or the beginning of the fifteenth century, and must be regarded as a -splendid example of Scottish architecture of that period. Possibly some -portions of the western division are older; but, if so, it has been -remodelled and vaulted at the above date. The piers next the nave (Fig. -810) have the peculiar feature of a square plinth (somewhat like the -small buttresses which enclose the adjoining tombs) running up the inner -side to form a support for the springing of the vaulting (Fig. 810). -This feature has the appearance of being an addition to the piers, thus -suggesting that the aisle and its vaulting are of later date than the -nave of the cathedral. The piers are clustered, and have moulded caps -with round abaci. - -The monument in the western division of the aisle (see Fig. 810) is -believed to be that of Bishop Fraser, who occupied the see from 1498 to -1507; - -[Illustration: FIG. 810.--Fortrose Cathedral. West End of South Aisle.] - -and the style of the work confirms this view. The arched canopy, with -its ogee head, and the third pointed carved work of its crockets and -finial are in good preservation. The figure of the bishop is also well -preserved. The fragments of a third tomb still exist under the arch, -between the two already described (see Fig. 808). This has evidently -been a late structure, with a canopy supported on a series of arches; -but it is now so mutilated that its features cannot be distinctly made -out. It is believed to be the tomb of Bishop Cairncross (1539-45). - -It is thought that the western division of the nave was the chapel of -St. Boniface;[154] for when Bishop Tulloch, about 1460, presented the -bell (which still hangs in the south turret) to the church, he dedicated -it to St. Mary and St. Boniface, probably because the chapels adjoining -the bell turret were dedicated to these saints. - -[Illustration: FIG. 811.--Fortrose Cathedral. Piscina.] - -Besides the tracery of the windows and the beauty of the tombs, the -aisle is rich in details. In the south wall there is a fine piscina -(Fig. 811), and in the north wall an ambry, with a small stone -penthouse. All the windows have label terminals, many of them finely -carved with heads. - -An octagonal font of remarkable design (Fig. 812) stands against the -east wall of the aisle. - -[Illustration: FIG. 812.--Fortrose Cathedral. Font.] - -We have seen that the sacristy is the only part of the original building -which now remains. This is a plain rectangular structure, two stories in -height, 45 feet long by 12 feet wide internally, which stands quite -detached in the centre of the open space surrounding the site of the -cathedral. The upper floor is, with all probability, believed to have -been the chapter house; but it has been rebuilt, and is now used as the -place of meeting of the Town Council. Externally the building has the -appearance of a plain modern stone erection; but internally the ground -floor preserves most of its original features. It is vaulted in six -bays, with groined vaulting; but being low, and provided with very few -small windows, the interior can only be dimly seen. The dog-tooth and -other details, however, seem to indicate first pointed work. There is a -range of arched seats, and an ambry at each side, towards the east end. -The doorway entered from the choir, in the centre of the south side; and -a staircase in the west wall led to the upper floor. - -Mr. Chisholm-Batten thinks that this undercroft was the chapel of St. -Nicholas, where a consistorial office was held in 1451, being more -suitable for such an assembly than the open south aisle of the nave. So -far as can now be ascertained, there were no other aisles connected with -the cathedral. - -The history of the cathedral subsequently to the Reformation is not well -known. Under the Regent Morton the lead was removed from the roof, and -the structure fell into disrepair. But it was partially repaired by -Bishop Lindsay in 1615; and in 1649 it was not very ruinous. It would, -therefore, appear that the tradition is probably correct which says that -the masonry of the walls was removed by Cromwell, like that of Kinloss -Abbey, for the construction of his citadel at Inverness. - - -CROSRAGUEL ABBEY, AYRSHIRE. - -This monastery, whose abbots once possessed regal sway over nearly the -whole of Carrick, now stands a solitary deserted ruin in a small -sequestered valley, about two miles from Maybole, on the road leading by -Kirkoswald to Girvan. The monastic buildings, although much ruined, are -still of considerable extent, and comprise, besides the church, more -remains of ecclesiastical and domestic structures than are usual in our -Scottish religious establishments. This has probably arisen from the -quiet and secluded nature of the site, as well as from the protection -afforded by the powerful Earls of Carrick. - -The chartulary of the abbey is lost, but many of the scattered charters -have been collected and printed by the Ayrshire and Galloway -Archæological Association, and edited by Mr. F. C. Hunter Blair, 1886. -From these and the introductory chapter most of the following historical -notes are gleaned. - -The abbey was founded by Duncan, Earl of Carrick, in the end of the -twelfth century. By him lands and churches were granted to the Abbey of -Paisley, on condition that the monks should found a monastery in his -province of Carrick, after their own Order of Cluny, to which the said -endowments should be handed over. These conditions were evaded by the -monks of Paisley, who contented themselves with erecting a cell at -Crosraguel, and kept the rest of the revenue to themselves. Such conduct -was naturally complained of by the earl, and it was decided by William -de Bondington, Bishop of Glasgow, that a monastery should be forthwith -erected at Crosraguel. Earl Duncan is said to have superintended the -erection of the structure, in which case it must have been in progress -between 1244, the date of the bishop’s decision, and 1250, when the earl -died. In 1265 the Pope confirmed the “Scriptum de Crosragmol” of Bishop -Bondington. - -Additional grants were made to the abbey by Earl Nigel, the successor of -the founder. The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The monks were -of the Order of Cluny, in France. This order was first introduced into -England at Wenlock, in Shropshire, whence monks were brought to Paisley -Abbey by Walter, first Steward of Scotland. The ecclesiastics of that -convent, being the superiors of Crosraguel, naturally colonised it with -monks of their own order of Cluniacs. - -During the fourteenth century the abbey is much associated with the -history of the Bruces. The romantic marriage of the father of King -Robert to the Countess of Carrick established the family in the earldom. -The countess and her husband were benefactors of the abbey, and their -neighbouring Castle of Turnberry became a protection to the monks. - -During Edward’s invasion, in 1296, Henry de Percy was appointed Sheriff -of Ayr. In 1306 he held Turnberry Castle, and a letter, dated by him -from Crosraguel, asking for two engines of war to be sent to him, shows -that siege operations were in contemplation. - -During this disturbed period of Scottish history it seems probable that -this abbey, like many other similar institutions throughout the country, -suffered from the effects of war. The buildings show that the original -structure of the monastery has been demolished, and that new edifices -were erected in the fifteenth century; and it is supposed that this -reconstruction was rendered necessary by the damage caused during the -English invasion. When the kingdom became settled, after the War of -Independence, King Robert granted a charter to the abbey, confirming the -endowments of Earl Duncan; and in 1329-30, gifts from the royal purse, -for the repair of the monastery, are noted in the Exchequer Rolls. The -king was lavish in benefactions to the abbey. In 1324 he presented it -with lands, and, as a mark of special favour, he erected the domains of -the abbey into a barony. Shortly after the accession of David II. the -abbot received the king’s penny for three years (amounting to £100, 1s. -10d.) to assist him in the repair of the buildings. - -Under the Stewart kings Crosraguel still continued to receive the royal -favour. In 1374 Robert II. confirmed the Crown charters of Robert I.; -and in 1404 the great Crosraguel charter was granted by Robert III. -confirming all the abbey lands and property to be held for ever in free -regality. By this charter the abbot was raised into the position of an -absolute sovereign over all the abbey possessions, which comprised -nearly the whole of the southern division of Ayrshire. The abbey -continued to occupy a high position during the fifteenth century. The -abbot was in favour at Court, and was employed on special missions and -diplomatic services. - -In 1460 the Abbot Colin, a man of some eminence, was elected. He devoted -much care to the church and buildings, which he found in a dilapidated -condition, and is believed to have built the existing chapter house. He -died in 1491. - -Abbot David obtained a confirmation of the special rights of the abbey -from the Archbishop of Glasgow, and, in 1515, procured a special -dispensation from inspection by the Archbishop of St. Andrews, who was -delegated by the Pope to visit every monastery in Scotland, and to -punish the “excess and enormity of the brethren dwelling therein.” - -During the forty years prior to the Reformation the abbey enjoyed the -protection of the Earl of Carrick, two eminent members of the family -being about that time abbots in succession to each other. At this period -the right of appointment to vacant benefices was gradually passing into -the hands of the Crown, and by 1550 that change was completed. - -In those troublous times the Church was felt to be in danger, and Abbot -William Kennedy, who had acted as guardian to the young Earl Cassilis, -who was then abroad, wrote to him to return to Scotland to look after -the interests of the abbey. At the same time the Archbishop of Glasgow -sent all his possessions to Crosraguel, as to a place of safety. These -consisted of embroidered vestments, gold and silver plate, jewels, and a -library of books of great value. - -Abbot William was succeeded by his nephew, Quintin Kennedy (1547-64), an -ardent champion of the Church, whose contest with Knox at Maybole in -1562 is well known. It is thought that he was the first abbot to occupy -the abbots’ tower, a fortified pele which stands at the south-east -corner of the grounds. Gilbert M‘Brayar, one of the monks, is said to -have made many “sumptuous additions” to the monastery. These were -probably domestic structures in the cloister, whose ruins are still -traceable. - -In 1561 an Act was passed by the Privy Council suppressing “Idolatori -and all monumentis thairof,” and Arran, Glencairn, and Argyle were -despatched to the West to carry the Act into execution. Amongst the -other demolitions executed by them was the casting down of part of -Crosraguel. - -Ten years before the Reformation leases of church lands were frequently -granted to nobles and other powerful individuals who were able to -protect them. Thus, in 1564, the whole benefice of Crosraguel was -leased to the Earl of Cassillis for 700 marks (£466, 13s. 4d.) Under his -protection the monks continued to occupy the monastery till 1592, -probably later than any other abbey in Scotland. - -In 1570 occurred the famous “roasting of the abbot.” The Earl of -Cassillis had resolved to get the whole property of the abbey into his -hands, and endeavoured, by torturing Allan Stewart, the abbot, to force -him to surrender the titles of the lands of the abbey, and he thus -succeeded, in consideration of a large sum, in becoming sole proprietor -of the regality. The abbot survived, but was maimed for life. He -disposed of every shred of the monastic property, and died in 1587. The -annexation to the Crown took place the same year. The possessions had -been gradually disposed of by Queen Mary and her son to numerous -retainers. George Buchanan received a pension out of the revenues, and -King James intended to restore the abbey as a residence for his son -Henry. - -In 1617 the whole benefice was annexed to the Bishopric of Dunblane, in -order to provide a suitable support for the bishop. On the overthrow of -Episcopacy, in 1689, the revenues were annexed to the Crown; and now the -sole relic of the great regality of Crosraguel is the small plot of -ground enclosing the ruins. - -The abbey buildings (Fig. 813) have been of considerable extent, and -still comprise, besides the remains of the church and cloisters, with -the usual ecclesiastical buildings surrounding them, an outer court to -the south-west, with a picturesque gatehouse, pigeon-house, and other -domestic structures. There was also an eastern courtyard, which -contained the abbot’s hall, and the adjoining tower or keep, the -infirmary, &c. The whole precincts were enclosed with a high wall, which -included an extensive garden. The small burn which flows along the south -side is believed to have fed fish-ponds in the neighbourhood. The church -(Fig. 813) is a simple oblong structure, consisting of choir and nave, -without aisles and without transepts. It would appear, however, from -excavations carried out by the Ayrshire and Galloway Archæological -Association, that the original church of the thirteenth century -contained a north and south transept, some traces of the foundations of -which were disclosed. A few other relics of this earlier church are -observable in the base of the western part of the nave, in traces of the -jambs of the western doorway and the jambs of the north doorway of the -nave; but the remainder of the church has been entirely rebuilt, chiefly -on the old foundations. - -It is thought by Mr. Morris, who illustrates and describes the abbey in -the publication of the above Association, that part of the older -building is traceable in the wall between the choir and the sacristy, -where vaulting shafts exist on the sacristy side in such a position as -not to be available in the present structure (Fig. 814). From this fact -he forms the deduction that these shafts and the wall they are attached -to are part of the original church. He is further of opinion that the -part of the ancient church - -[Illustration: FIG. 813.--Crosraguel Abbey. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 814.--Crosraguel Abbey. Sacristy, looking East.] - -which he supposes has survived at this point formed the model on which -the restored building was designed. From the character of the design, - -[Illustration: FIG. 815.--Crosraguel Abbey. Interior of Choir.] - -this seems very doubtful. The three shafts referred to doubtless -indicate a change in the design at the date of the restoration in the -fifteenth century. The choir appears to have been erected, and a chapter -house contemplated (if not actually carried out) immediately to the -south of it, in the position formerly occupied by the south transept. -The three shafts were apparently erected at that time (say before 1450). -The bases of the shafts correspond in design with the bases of the -choir, and are clearly fifteenth century work. The walls of the chapter -house (afterwards changed into the sacristy) were evidently erected at -this time, as the usual stone seat of the chapter house still runs round -two of the sides. At a later date (towards the end of the fifteenth -century) a new range of buildings was erected on the east side of the -cloister. These consisted of a new chapter house, while that first -erected was converted into the sacristy. The new range was of less width -than the chapter house originally contemplated, and, therefore, new -vaulting shafts, spaced so as to suit the vaulting of the new width, -were introduced; and three of the old vaulting shafts were allowed to -remain, although two of them were no longer of use. - -The architecture of the interior of the choir (Fig. 815) is peculiar, -and clearly indicates a structure of the fifteenth century. The -three-sided eastern apse is characteristic of the fifteenth century, and -is among the earliest examples of that form then introduced into -Scotland. Crosraguel obtained its great charter in 1404, and was, no -doubt, then in a very flourishing condition; and it seems likely that -the church was rebuilt soon after that period. The style of the -architecture corresponds with other buildings of that date in Scotland. -The windows, which have been filled with tracery (now, unfortunately, -all destroyed), show, in their remaining jambs, shafts, and arch -mouldings (especially in the apse), a character resembling Scottish -decorated work. The triple wall shafts which divide the bays are carried -down to decorated bases in the sanctuary only, the others being stopped -on a corbel at the level of the central string course (see Fig. 815). -The sedilia (Fig. 816) and piscina of the choir (see Fig. 815) are also -beautiful specimens of the decorated style. The buttresses of the choir -and apse (Fig. 817) are simple, and of an early type. The nave (Fig. -818) has windows on the north side only. Here, as already observed, a -few traces of the original church are found in the early forms of the -base mouldings and the shafts of the north doorway. The arch supported -by these shafts, and forming the upper part of the doorway, is of very -inferior design, and is evidently a very late restoration. The shafts -are sloped off at top, so as to fit a straight impost. The buttresses -also show relics of older work. One of the nave windows is filled with -tracery; but it is of peculiar design, having been constructed in -connection with the erection of a monument to Egidia Blair, Lady Row, a -benefactress of the abbey, who died in 1530. The engraved recumbent -stone over her grave, bearing her arms and name, still exists; but -scarcely a trace of the monument survives. - -[Illustration: FIG. 816.--Crosraguel Abbey. Sedilia.] - -The nave is divided from the choir by a wall, which has been erected in -the sixteenth century (the upper part is seen in Fig. 819), probably -when the monks required protection, or owing to their number having -become diminished, when so large a church was unnecessary. This central -wall partly blocks up one of the nave windows, thus showing that it was -an afterthought. It seems, however, to have been substituted for an -older wall, which may have contained an arch between the nave and - -[Illustration: FIG. 817.--Crosraguel Abbey. Choir and Apse, from -South-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 818.--Crosraguel Abbey. View from North-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 819.--Crosraguel Abbey. Cloister, looking -North-East.] - -choir. The nave, thus separated from the choir, was known as St. Mary’s -or the Virgin’s Aisle. The wall contained a wheel staircase, and is -crowned with a good double belfry, surmounted by a well-carved cross -(Fig. 820), containing hearts in the centre, and having each arm cut -into the form of a cross. This may possibly be in imitation of the -crossleted crosses of the Kennedy arms. The pointed doorway from the -nave to the choir is of good, simple design, and has been defended with -a strong sliding bar, the slot in the wall for which still exists. - -[Illustration: FIG. 820. - -Crosraguel Abbey. - -Cross on Belfry.] - -The sacristy entered from the south side of the choir by a door having a -semi-elliptic arch, and mouldings and bases corresponding with those of -the choir (see Fig. 815). This doorway also led to a wheel stair, which -conducted to the scriptorium and library on the upper floor, and, -through them, to the dormitory. The ancient south transept was wider -than the present sacristy which occupies its site, as was disclosed by -the excavations above mentioned. The sacristy and the chapter house -adjoining are the best preserved parts of the edifice. They are both -elegantly vaulted, and lighted with windows, the tracery of which is -partly preserved (Fig. 821). The corbels (Fig. 822) which carry the ribs -of the sacristy vaults are carved in a quaint and rather debased style, -and point to a late date. The vaulting of the sacristy (see Fig. 814) is -peculiar, the ribs being arranged in the sexpartite form. The apartment -is considerably longer than it is wide; and the usual method of vaulting -such an apartment would be to divide it into two bays, each bay having -the usual cross ribs; but here the whole is vaulted in one bay, having -six ribs. This arrangement makes the axes of the side vaults oblique, -and produces the effect of twisting in the four side spaces of the -vaults towards the centre. The vaulting here, being wider than that of -the chapter house, rises higher, and thus rendered the floor of the -scriptorium above it higher than that of the library over the chapter -house, and necessitated some steps in the passages from the dormitory to -the church. The opening to the sacristy from the choir is recent, this -position having formerly been occupied by an altar platform, believed to -have been erected in honour of Robert III. in 1404. The position of the -high altar is still distinctly marked, being placed against a detached -wall carried across the apse, and provided with a small door for access -to the space behind. The three steps leading up to the east end are also -discoverable, and each step is beaded on the edge (see Fig. 815). A -plain doorway, with a drop arch, leads from the south-west angle of the -choir to the east walk of the cloister (see Fig. 819). Only the -foundations of the outer wall of the cloister walks are now traceable. -This, no doubt, carried pillars and arches (or wooden posts), on which -the wooden roof of the cloister walks rested. There may have been stone -piers - -[Illustration: FIG. 821.--Crosraguel Abbey. East Side of Chapter House -and Sacristy.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 822.--Crosraguel Abbey. Corbels in Sacristy.] - -at the angles and at intervals; the springing of a diagonal arch -survives in the north-west angle. A well exists in the centre of the -cloister garth, with stone steps leading down to it. The chapter house -enters by a doorway only, without side windows, from the east alley (see -Fig. 819). The jambs and pointed arch are moulded, but there are no -caps. The chapter house is square, and has a central pillar, which -carries fine vaulting (Fig. 823). The vaulting is divided into four -square bays, each with cross ribs, resting on the central pillar and on -responds against the walls, which have bases set on the stone bench. The -bosses have been carved with coats of arms, now obliterated. One of them -has a mitre; another shows indications of an apsidal building. The -abbot’s seat occupies the centre of the east side, between the two -windows; and a stone bench is carried round the walls. - -The upper floor, which still survives, above the chapter house and -sacristy (see Figs. 819 and 820) contained the scriptorium and library, -the latter having had a good mullioned window, overlooking the cloister, -now nearly destroyed. Following the ruins which continue the east side -of the cloister southwards, we come first to a vaulted chamber, which -may have been a parlour; then to the slype leading to the eastern garth, -which has a stone bench on each side, and is covered with a segmental -barrel vault. Beyond this are vaulted ruins of an indeterminate -character. On the south side of the cloister garth are the refectory and -part of the buttery, with a hatch which led from the one to the other. -Between these apartments a wide scale staircase formed the day access to -the dormitories above. This range of buildings is evidently of late -date, and may have been the work of Abbot Gilbert M‘Brayar, above -referred to. The refectory has been covered with a barrel vault, and had -a fireplace in the north wall. The windows in the south wall are low, -horizontal openings. The west side of the cloister is believed to have -contained a large common room, but it is now much ruined; the pointed -doorway at the north end, however, still remains. - -The eastern courtyard is triangular in form. The ruin on the east side -is probably a fragment of the infirmary. On the south side is a range of -ruined vaults, over which was probably the abbot’s hall. At the -south-east angle stand the ruins of what was the abbot’s keep, or place -of strength, erected apparently in the sixteenth century. It is of the -ordinary form of the lay keeps of the period, having thick walls, with -chambers formed in their thickness and a corbelled parapet for defence. -It no doubt communicated with the abbot’s hall adjoining. It is built -over the stream which bounds the convent on the south, and passes under -the lower story, where it had an archway, grated at each end. The -principal floor contains a good fireplace, with ambry adjoining, and a -small stair leading to the water below. The upper floors contained the -usual bedrooms, one of which still shows the remains of a carved -fireplace. The - -[Illustration: FIG. 823.--Crosraguel Abbey. Chapter House, looking -North-West.] - -north and east walls are demolished. The south and west walls are quite -plain. Some of the corbels of the parapet, however, still survive. - -The south-west courtyard is of considerable extent, and contained a -number of domestic offices, such as bakehouse, brewhouse, &c. A -picturesque gatehouse gives entrance to the monastery through this -courtyard, and strangers’ apartments are provided in the upper -floors.[155] The pigeon house is also a well preserved example of that -common class of structure. - -The ruins seem for a long period to have formed a convenient quarry for -the district, but they were put in good order about fifty years ago by -the Kilkerran family, and are now well preserved and cared for. - - -ST. GILES’ COLLEGIATE CHURCH,[156] EDINBURGH. - -The Church of St. Giles occupies the site of the original parish church -of Edinburgh. It stands in a conspicuous situation in the centre of the -Old Town, on a comparatively level piece of ground (probably an ancient -sea margin), which occurs in the general slope extending from the Castle -to Holyrood. In the ninth century, when Lothian formed part of -Northumbria, the Church of Edinburgh is mentioned as belonging to the -diocese of Lindisfarne. - -About 1120 a new church was erected by Alexander I., of which some -fragments remained till the end of last century. This church is -frequently referred to in subsequent reigns. Notice of it occurs under -Alexander II., in the early part of the thirteenth century; in 1319, it -is mentioned in an Act of Robert I.; and in 1359, under David II., a -gift of lands is confirmed to it. - -The earliest of these notices doubtless referred to the Norman church of -the twelfth century, of which not a fragment now remains _in situ_; but -some detached Norman carved stones, such as caps, have been found in -excavations in the interior. The edifice appears to have been rebuilt -about the time of David II. - -In the constant wars with England Edinburgh naturally suffered much. It -was damaged by Edward II. in 1322, when Holyrood Abbey was also spoiled. -Under Edward III. the country was laid waste in 1335, when the capital -was again injured. This raid, having occurred in February, was -afterwards known as the “burnt Candlemas,” from the conflagrations -raised during its continuance. A reconstruction of the edifice was -probably required after these destructive harryings, and this appears to -have been carried out during the fourteenth century. But shortly -afterwards a most complete devastation of the town and all its buildings -was occasioned by Richard II. during his invasion in 1385. He then -occupied Edinburgh for five days, and, on his departure, laid the town -and the parish church in ashes. - -A great effort was made by the citizens on this occasion, along with -assistance from the Crown, to repair the disaster to their church. From -this period the history of the structure as it now exists may be said to -date. - -We have no account of the condition of the edifice immediately before -its destruction in 1385, but it must (as above mentioned) have been to a -large extent rebuilt before that time. - -It is said that during the restoration which took place in 1870-80,[157] -traces of fire were observed on the pillars of the choir, and it is -inferred that these pillars must have existed before the burning caused -by Richard II. This view is confirmed by the fact that, after 1387, -when, doubtless, the town authorities were doing all they could to -complete the restoration of St. Giles’, they entered into a contract -with certain masons to erect five chapels along the south side of the -nave, having pillars and vaulted roofs, covered with dressed stone -slabs[158] These chapels still exist, and the wall rib of the vaulting -is yet visible on the south side of the arcade, next the south aisle; -but the vault and stone roof have been removed, and a plaster ceiling of -imitation vaulting substituted. The above contract indicates that the -walls of the nave then existed. - -We must, therefore, assume that the church had been rebuilt previous to -the destruction of 1385, and that the above contract was an addition to -the building connected with its restoration two years after the fire. -Although, doubtless, much injured by the conflagration, the walls and -pillars of the church seem to have escaped total destruction. The style -of the architecture would lead to the same view; the octagonal pillars -of the choir, with their moulded caps, being most probably of the -fourteenth century. - -The church, as restored and added to after 1387, would then consist -(Fig. 824)[159] of a choir of four bays, with side aisles; a nave of -five bays, also with side aisles; a central crossing, north and south -transepts, and the five chapels just added south of the nave. A large -open porch, to the south of the central one of those chapels, was also -erected along with them. It had a finely groined vault in the roof, and -over it was a small chamber, - -[Illustration: FIG. 824.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Plan.] - -lighted by a picturesque oriel window, supported on a corbel, carved -with an angel, displaying the city arms (Fig. 825).[160] The upper -story, which is supposed to have been the revestry, was reached by a -bold turret stair on the west side of the south porch. - -The whole of the main divisions of the structure were vaulted; but the -vault of the central aisles was low, being little higher than that of -the side aisles. The massive octagonal piers of the crossing appear to -have been raised about this period. The traces of the caps, which were -cut off, are visible at a lower level (Fig. 826), and the few courses of -ashlar work above them, with the new caps at the heightened level, may -be traced as additions (Fig. 827). The vaulting of the crossing, with -its central opening, was, doubtless, executed during the restoration of -about 1400. - -The ancient Norman porch, which formed the north entrance to the nave, -was the only part of the twelfth century structure then preserved, and a -small chamber was erected above it, with a narrow turnpike stair leading -to it. The restoration seems to have been in progress for a considerable -length of time. Donations from the Crown towards it continued to be -given till 1413. It was probably completed about 1416. - -[Illustration: FIG. 825.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. - -Oriel originally over South Porch.] - -Shortly after the erection of the five chapels on the south side of the -nave, another chapel was built on the north side of the nave, to the - -[Illustration: FIG. 826.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. South Piers of -Crossing.] - -west of the old Norman doorway. This chapel, called the Albany aisle -(Fig. 828), is 32 feet long by 12 feet in width. It opens from the nave - -[Illustration: FIG. 827.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. North Piers of -Crossing.] - -[Illustration: FIG 828.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The Albany -Aisle.] - -with two arches, which rest on a central pillar, and the roof is covered -with groined vaulting in two bays. The central pillar and the two -responds are moulded, and have caps and bases, all in the same style as -those of the south chapels. The cap of the central pillar contains two -shields, the arms on which not only give a clue to the date of the -chapel, but also recall a dark passage in Scottish history. One of these -shields (that on the south) bears the arms of Robert, Duke of Albany, -the second son of Robert II. (the Scottish lion quartered with the fesse -chequé for Stewart); the other, or north shield, bears the well-known -Douglas arms, being those of Archibald, Fourth Earl of Douglas. These -two noblemen were both implicated in the death of David, Duke of -Rothesay, who, in 1401, was starved to death at Falkland Palace; and it -is believed that this chapel was erected by them as a good work in -expiation of their horrid crime, or, at least, in order to propitiate -the clergy. The architecture of the chapel is light and elegant, and the -vaulting is enriched with bosses, one of which contains the monogram of -the Blessed Virgin. - -Two other chapels were added on the north side of the nave, to the east -of the Norman doorway, probably about this period. The eastern of these -chapels was dedicated to St. Eloi. - -The vaulting of the north aisle of the nave was almost necessarily -rebuilt at the time when the north chapels were erected. - -About half a century after the above restoration, great extensions and -improvements were undertaken. It is believed, from the internal evidence -of the architecture, that the extensions of St. Giles’ were carried out -under the auspices of Queen Mary of Gueldres, by whom also Trinity -College Church, Edinburgh, was founded in 1462. - -During the fifteenth century St. Giles’ received many endowments, -chiefly from merchants of Edinburgh, and increased considerably in -wealth, so that funds would thus be forthcoming for the new work. Money -was also contributed by the Town Council, who raised it by fines and -otherwise. - -The extensions undertaken at this time consisted of (1) the lengthening -of the choir by one bay; (2) the heightening of the central aisle of the -choir and vaulting it anew, together with the introduction of a new -clerestory; (3) the lengthening of the transepts. - -It is thus apparent that the edifice was to a great extent -remodelled--the north and south aisles of the choir, and the central and -recently renewed side aisles and chapels of the nave, being the only -portions left untouched. The south aisle of the nave had (as above -mentioned) been remodelled some fifty years before, when the five -chapels were added to the south of it. The south wall of the south aisle -had then been removed, and its place supplied by the pillars which -connected it with the five added chapels (Fig. 829); while at the same -time both aisle and chapels had been vaulted with finely groined vaults, -having numerous moulded ribs springing from corbels inserted above the -capitals. - -1. The first of the alterations of about 1460, above mentioned, is the -lengthening of the choir by one bay. The original east wall, no doubt, - -[Illustration: FIG. 829.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. South Aisle of -Nave and South Chapels.] - -stood where the two eastern free pillars now stand; and, the wall having -to be removed, the two new pillars (Fig. 830) were substituted for it. -These pillars and the two responds against the east wall tell a very -remark-able - -[Illustration: FIG. 830.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 831.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The East Pillar, -South Side of Choir.] - -and interesting story, and prove beyond doubt the date of the -work. Each capital contains four shields (Fig. 831), which are explained -by Dr. Laing in the following manner:--The north or, as it is commonly -called, the king’s pillar contains in its sculptured cap a series of -heraldic emblems of special significance. The shield facing the east -contains the royal arms (Fig. 832), with a label of three points, which, -no doubt, denotes the infant heir to the throne, James III. The shield -facing the west is also carved with the royal lion rampant, with its -double tressure; but the top of the shield is unfinished. This is -probably the arms of James II. The shield - -[Illustration: FIG. 832.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Shield bearing -the Royal Arms.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 833.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Shield bearing -Arms of Bishop Kennedy.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 834.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Shield bearing -Arms of Nicholas de Otterburn.] - -facing the north contains the arms of Mary of Gueldres, impaled with the -royal arms. This also is unfinished on the top. The shield facing the -south has the three fleurs-de-lys for France, the old ally of Scotland. -These shields clearly connect the pillar with Mary of Gueldres and her -husband, James II., and their son, James III. The marriage of the king -and queen took place in 1449, and James III. was born in 1453. His -father was killed at the siege of Roxburgh Castle in 1460, and Mary of -Gueldres died in 1463. The work was, therefore, probably executed -between 1453 and 1463. The unfinished condition of the west and north -shields may, perhaps, point to a date shortly after the king’s death and -before that of Mary of Gueldres. The heraldic devices on the other -pillars and responds are those of distinguished men of the time. On the -pillar on the south side of the choir, the shield facing the east bears -three unicorns’ heads (see Fig. 831), the arms of William Preston of -Gorton, who bestowed (as we shall see) a great gift on the church. The -shield on the west bears the arms of Bishop Kennedy (Fig. 833), a -chevron between three crosses crossleted, surrounded by a double -tressure. This prelate, who - -[Illustration: FIG. 835.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. East Pillar of -Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 836.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The Crossing, -from the Nave.] - -was a grandson of Robert III., was Bishop of St. Andrews, and one of the -most eminent men of the period. The shield on the north (Fig. 834) bears -the arms of Nicholas de Otterburn, who was Vicar of Edinburgh in 1455, -and who had been sent to France in 1448 in connection with the selection -of Mary of Gueldres as the bride of James II. The south shield bears a -castle, being the emblem of the city (see Fig. 831). - -The north respond contains the arms (three cranes gorged) of Thomas -Cranstoun, Chief Magistrate of Edinburgh in 1439 and also in 1454. As -formerly, the good town which he represented would aid in the -restoration. - -The south respond bears the arms of Napier of Merchiston, Provost of -Edinburgh, 1457--viz., a saltier engrailed, cantoned with four roses. - -These new pillars and responds (Fig. 835) differ entirely from the older -plain octagonal ones. They are of a form which became very common in -Scotland after this time. The pillars are moulded, rather than -clustered, and contain a variety of mouldings instead of shafts. These -rise from a base which is moulded and ornamented with carvings, and is -set on one or two high plinths. The pillar is crowned with a -richly-moulded capital, the lower or bed mould being carved with -cherubs’ heads, fitted into the re-entering angles of the pier, while -the upper mouldings run in straight lines, and include several of the -members of the piers in one stretch. - -The mouldings of the main arches, which spring from these piers, are -also richer than the plain splays of the older arches. - -2. The heightening of the choir and the introduction of a new clerestory -were also carried out shortly after the middle of the fifteenth century. -The height of the former vault of the choir is shown by the vault of the -crossing (Fig. 836), which it doubtless resembled, and which was not -altered at this time. The former position of the vault of the choir is -also indicated by portions of the groins, which have only been partly -cut away, and which are still visible, springing directly from the caps -of the choir piers at the previous low level (see Fig. 830). The ancient -vault of the choir, springing, as it did, directly from the caps of the -main piers, would only afford room under the wall rib for small -clerestory windows. Traces of several similar small windows may still be -observed over the main arcade on the south side of the nave, where they -have been built up at some period--perhaps during the alterations in -1829; but the rybats and arches are still traceable. The outline of the -old roof may also be observed against the east and west walls of the -tower (see Fig. 836), the raglet and a stepped string course above it -being yet preserved, and being specially apparent on the east side next -the choir. - -The condition of the walls where they have been heightened for the -clerestory also indicates that some of the old vaulting has been cut -off, and new masonry substituted. The clerestory is carried up so as to -admit of good windows, each with arched head, and divided into two -lights by a central mullion (see Fig. 830). The traceried heads have -drop arches on the inside. The new vaulting is of simple, but elegant, -design. The ribs of the vault are moulded, and are provided, besides -the main cross ribs, with ridge ribs and intermediate ribs; and the -junctions are all ornamented with large and finely-carved bosses, of -which some examples are given (Figs. 837 and 838). The curved panels of -the vaults are arranged so as to be either parallel or at right angles -to the side walls, so that the joints of the stones composing the -different vaulting surfaces are all set at right angles to one another, -being the plan usually adopted in England, but not in France. The ribs -of the vaults spring from the carved caps (Fig. 839) of short and light -vaulting shafts, inserted in the side walls and resting on corbels, -considerably above the caps of the main piers (see Fig. 830). The -insertion of these shafts in the old masonry is plainly visible. - -[Illustration: FIG. 837.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Bosses in -Choir.] - -The beauty of the vaulting of the central aisle is particularly -noticeable when contrasted with that of the side aisles. The eastern or -extended bay of the choir aisles, being new, has been vaulted with -groined vaulting in the same manner as the central aisle, but the old -portions of the aisles are vaulted with what nearly approaches to a -domical form (Fig. 840). Each bay has the usual transverse and diagonal -ribs, but the surfaces of the vault are domed up above the wall rib at -the side walls, so that the height to which the windows may be carried -is greatly reduced from what it might be with groined vaults, similar to -those of the central aisle. The difference of this style of vaulting -from the true groined vaulting used in the eastern compartment is most -marked, and its effect on the height of the windows is distinctly -observable in the different divisions of the aisles. - -[Illustration: FIG. 838.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Boss in Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 839.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Cap of Vaulting -Shaft in Choir.] - -The vaulting of the nave remained at this time unaltered at its -comparatively low level, and over the vault of the central aisle there -existed an attic story, which formed the house of the bell-ringer, and -contained several rooms. The vaulting of the aisles of the nave (as -above mentioned) had already been altered, and several chapels had been -extended northwards from the north aisle. These projected beyond the old -Norman porch, and thus placed it in a recess. The central crossing, with -its vault, was left unaltered, and still remains in the same position, -with its vaulting at the level it was raised to about 1400. It thus -forms a break between the nave and choir, in both of which the vault -has been raised (see Fig. 836). - -[Illustration: FIG. 840.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. South Aisle of -Choir.] - -3. The transepts were extended, their original length being marked by -breaks in the roof, where the vaulting terminates. The extension is - -[Illustration: FIG. 841.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Junction of -Vault of South Transept.] - -specially observable in the vaulting, the vaults of the transept having -to be carried on arches which rest on corbels, inserted in the arches of -the aisles, in an awkward manner (see Fig. 829 and Fig. 841). The east -window of the north transept, which had been long obscured by a -structure built against it, was recently discovered and opened up. It is -of good, but late, decorated work (Fig. 842), and probably gives an idea -of the mullions which, no doubt, formerly existed in the windows of the -nave and choir, but which have been removed and traceries of 1829 -substituted. The details of this window, as shown in Fig. 842, are the -only original window details now remaining in the church. The window is -of three lights, with an arched transom ornamented with battlements, -like some windows at Melrose. In the interior very elaborate niches were -found, with ornamental canopies, which have been unfortunately much -destroyed. Over the windows, on the outside, there were in position two -corbels, supporting the wall-head parapet. As these would have been -concealed by the vaulting of the Chambers aisle (which was recently -inserted), they were built into the piers at the arch springers of the -entrance to that aisle. Amongst the rubbish cleared out in opening up -this window, a rude Norman capital was found built into the wall. - -The north transept was considerably widened, in 1829, by setting back -the west wall and wheel stair. A portion of the old arcading is still -visible at the break on the west side. - -It has been mentioned above that Sir William Preston of Gorton was a -benefactor of St. Giles’. In 1454, after much trouble and expense -abroad, and aided by “a high and mighty prince, the King of France, and -many other Lords of France,” he succeeded in obtaining an arm bone of -the Patron Saint, which he generously bequeathed to the church. The Town -Council were so gratified with the gift that they resolved to add an -aisle to the choir in commemoration of the event, and to place therein a -tablet of brass narrating the bounty of Sir William. This aisle was to -be built within six or seven years, “furth frae our Lady Isle where the -said William lyis.” From this it appears that the south aisle of the -nave was known as the lady chapel, and that Sir William had been buried -there. The above resolution was carried into effect, and a new aisle, -called the Preston Aisle (see Fig. 824), was constructed to the south of -the lady chapel. In carrying this out the south wall opposite the three -westmost bays of the choir was removed, and three arches carried on two -piers substituted (Fig. 843). These piers and arches correspond with the -work of the same period at the east end of the choir. The vaulting is -also of a similar light and elegant character, and has similar -intermediate ribs or tiercerons and ridge ribs. The vaulting is raised -considerably above the arches next the aisle, and is carried on caps, -which have short shafts resting on corbels. One of these contains a -shield bearing the three unicorns’ heads of the Prestons. - -[Illustration: Section of Mouldings of Window Jamb and Niche. - -Interior. - -Exterior. - -FIG. 842.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. East Window of North -Transept.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 843.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Preston Aisle.] - -The aisle had one large window in the east end and three windows to the -south. This structure extends into the choir the great width of the -four aisles of the church previously formed in the nave, thus adding -greatly both to the superficial area and to the appearance of -spaciousness and grandeur of the edifice. - -[Illustration: FIG. 844.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Monument in -Lauder’s Aisle.] - -The church, in its full length and breadth, was now complete in all its -parts, as it still remains internally, with a few exceptions, till the -present day. It measures internally 196 feet from east to west by 125 -feet from north to south across the transepts. The choir is 68 feet in -width over the north and south aisles, and the Preston aisle is 45 feet -6 inches in length and 27 feet in width. The nave, including the five -south chapels, is 81 feet in length by 91 feet in width within the -walls. - -Several additional chapels were afterwards thrown out. In 1513 an aisle -of two arches was formed by Alexander Lauder, of Blyth, Provost of the -city; and in 1518 the altar of the Holy Blood was erected in this aisle, -which lay on the south of the nave, and to the east of the south porch, -immediately adjoining the south transept. It was 29 feet long by 14 feet -wide, and opened into the south chapels of the nave with two arches, and -had two windows to the south. Between these windows, and recessed in the -wall, has now been erected what was, doubtless, a handsome monument -(Fig. 844), containing a recumbent statue, or was, as some suppose, part -of the canopy of the altar. - -During the alterations of 1829 one half of this chapel was obliterated; -but the monument is still preserved, and its details are illustrated in -Figs. 845 and 846. - -[Illustration: FIG. 845.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Details of -Monument in Lauder’s Aisle.] - -In 1466 the Church of St. Giles was erected, by charter of James III., -into a collegiate establishment, but is not called collegiate till 1475. -The chapter consisted of a provost, curate, sixteen prebendaries, a -minister of the choir, four choristers, a sacristan, and a beadle. -Besides these, there were chaplains ministering at thirty-six altars in -the church. The number of clergy connected with the establishment -probably reached about one hundred, who were supported by its -endowments. The perpetual vicar became the first provost, and the second -provost was Gavin Douglas, whose translation of Virgil’s _Æneid_ into -the Scottish language was the first version of a Latin classic rendered -into any British tongue. - -The erection of St. Giles’ into a collegiate establishment was chiefly -effected through the exertions of the Town Council, who were desirous -of raising the status of their parish church. A great impetus was thus -given to the contributions of the faithful, and money for the “new work” -was also raised by fines. - -After this period a few additions still continued to be made to the -fabric. A small chapel, called the Chepman aisle, was thrown out from -the Preston aisle close to the south transept. It measures about 14 feet -long by 12 feet wide, and opens from the Preston aisle with a pointed -arch (Fig. 847). The ceiling is formed with a pointed barrel vault, -ornamented with cross ribs, which spring from large carved corbels. This -chapel was founded and dedicated to St. John the Evangelist by Walter -Chepman, called the Scottish Caxton, from his having, in 1507, -introduced the art of printing into Scotland. St. John’s emblem of the -eagle (Fig. 848) is carved on one of the corbels of the roof. Chepman’s -enterprise was greatly encouraged by James IV. and his Queen Margaret; -and, in thankfulness for the royal patronage, this chapel was dedicated -by Chepman, on 21st August 1513, to the welfare of the souls of the king -and queen, and their offspring. This happened within a month of James’s -death at Flodden, on 9th September 1513. Chepman himself was buried in -this aisle in 1532. The south transept seems to have been extended -southwards when the two chapels last mentioned were erected. - -[Illustration: FIG. 846.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Mouldings of -Monument.] - -The only part of the interior of the structure still unmentioned is a -chapel to the east of the north transept. This building was at one time -used by the Town Clerk as his office, and contained several stories and -a staircase. It is said to have been erected after the Reformation, but -it was altered, having large windows inserted, and was connected with -the church as a vestry in 1829. It has recently been set apart to -contain the monument of Dr. Wm. Chambers, to whose liberality the city -is indebted for the complete renovation of the ancient cathedral. - -In 1829 the church was entirely renewed as regards the exterior, when -two chapels to the south of those built in 1389 and the south porch -were - -[Illustration: FIG. 847.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The Chepman -Aisle, from the Preston Aisle.] - -removed. The round arched doorway of the south porch (Fig. 849) was -again erected between the north pillars of the crossing as the entrance -to the central division of the church. It has now been transferred to -the entrance doorway to the royal pew at the east end of the Preston -aisle. Fig. 850 shows the carved ornaments of this doorway, which are -all in the decorated style of its period. - -[Illustration: FIG. 848.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Chepman Aisle: -Corbel of Vault.] - -The only portions of the exterior which escaped renewal were the tower -and steeple. Fortunately the well-known crown of St Giles’ (Fig. 851), -which forms such a characteristic object in almost every view of -Edinburgh, was not interfered with in 1829. The date of its erection is -unknown, but to judge from its style it was probably built after the -great alterations in the interior were carried out. This crown -termination seems to have been a favourite feature with Scottish -architects. The crown of the tower of King’s College, Aberdeen, was -built after 1505, and similar crowns formerly existed on the towers of -Linlithgow and Haddington churches. The crown of St. Nicholas’ Church, -Newcastle, which is probably the only other steeple of this kind in -Great Britain, is also of a late date. There is a crown of the same -description on the tower of the Town Hall at Oudenarde, in Belgium, - -[Illustration: FIG. 849.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Doorway of South -Porch and Section of Mouldings.] - -which is also of late Gothic work, and there can be no hesitation in -assigning a late date (probably about 1500) to that of St Giles’. It is -a very picturesque and striking design, and accords well with its -surroundings - -[Illustration: FIG. 850.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Details of -Doorway to Royal Pew.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 851.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Tower and -Crown.] - -in the Old Town. Some of the above crown steeples have an arch thrown -from each angle to a central pinnacle, an arrangement which renders them -rather thin and empty looking; but that of St. Giles’ has, in addition -to the arches from the angles, another arch cast from the centre of each -side to the centre pinnacle (Figs. 852 and 853). This produces an -octagonal appearance, which, together with the numerous crocketed -pinnacles with which the arches are ornamented, gives a richness and -fullness of effect which is wanting in some of the other steeples of -this description (Fig. 854). The steeple of St. Giles’ was partly -rebuilt in 1648. - -Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, several of the guilds -had chapels assigned to them, for which they contributed to the church -funds. St. Eloi’s Chapel was given to the hammermen, and the “blue -blanket,” the flag to which the trades rallied, was kept there. Other -chapels and altars were set apart for the other corporations and trades, -and maintained by them. Many individuals famous in Scottish history were -buried in St. Giles’. Amongst these was Napier, the inventor of -logarithms, who died in 1617. His tomb is now inserted in the exterior -of the north wall of the choir, having been removed there, in 1829, from -the south side of the church. There still exist the remains of an arched -tomb recessed in the interior of the north wall of the choir, nearly -opposite the above, but no clue can be found to the name of the person -buried there. The Regent Murray, who was assassinated at Linlithgow in -1569, was buried in the south aisle. His monument was destroyed, but the -brass plate containing the inscription written in his honour by George -Buchanan was fortunately rescued, and has again been inserted in a new -monument erected in the Murray aisle (Fig. 855). The scattered members -of the body of the great Montrose were collected and buried in the -Chepman aisle in the south part of St. Giles’ in 1661, but all trace of -his remains has now been lost, and no monument till recently marked his -grave. - -The Norman doorway on the north side of the church, which had been -carefully preserved for upwards of five centuries, and had survived all -the above alterations and reconstructions, was taken down and removed in -1798, probably, as Sir D. Wilson suggests, “for no better reason than to -evade the cost of its repair.” - -The disturbances of the Reformation broke out in Edinburgh at an early -date, and the Church of St. Giles was one of the first to suffer. In -1556 several of the images were stolen from the church, and next year -that of St. Giles was carried off by the mob, and first drowned in the -North Loch, and then burned. His arm bone, regarded as so precious one -hundred years before, is supposed to have been thrown out into the -adjoining churchyard. The church was pillaged and the altars and images -cast down. The valuables, however, were taken possession of by the -authorities and sold, and the proceeds spent in the repair of the - -[Illustration: Plan through Parapet. - -Plan through Pinnacle, looking down. - -FIG. 852.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Plans of Crown.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 853.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Section through -Crown.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 854.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Crown Steeple.] - -[Illustration: FIG 855.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Monument of -Regent Murray.] - -structure. In 1560 St. Giles’ again became the parish church, with John -Knox for its minister. - -Amongst the disturbances of the period, St. Giles’ Church was seized -upon, in 1571, by Kirkcaldy of Grange, who acted for the Queen’s party, -and used it as a fortress. He put soldiers in the roof and tower, who -riddled the vault with holes, so as to shoot down on their opponents. - -After the Reformation the church was considered to be too large for -Protestant worship, and in Knox’s time the Magistrates began to cut it -up into sections, so as to form several churches. Other alterations were -made at different times, and parts were appropriated to other than -sacred uses; so that at one time, besides the High Church in the choir -and the Tolbooth Church in the nave, there were included under the same -roof a grammar school, courts of justice, the Town Clerk’s office, a -weaver’s workshop, and a place for the “Maiden,” or instrument of public -executions. - -On the introduction, in 1633, of Laud’s new forms of worship, the church -became the see of a bishopric, and the choir was fitted up as a -cathedral. - -Between the downfall of Episcopacy in 1637 and its restoration in 1661, -it was once more Presbyterian; but having again become Episcopalian, the -bishop was ejected at the Revolution, and the Presbyterian form of -worship restored. These variations entailed several alterations in the -mode in which the interior was divided up, but the condition of the -building up to this century remained little altered for the better. The -choir still formed a separate church, having galleries introduced round -three sides of it, so as to completely spoil and conceal the -architecture. The nave was divided with walls, so as to contain several -separate churches, and other incongruous accommodation. - -The Tolbooth Church occupied the south-west angle, and Haddow’s Hole -Church the north-west angle. The Old Church comprised the south transept -and portions adjoining, and the Preston aisle was partitioned off as a -place of meeting for the General Assembly and other purposes. The dark -portions under the crossing and the north transept were occupied as the -police office. - -The alterations and rebuilding of 1829 still left the edifice divided -into three separate churches--the choir was appropriated to the High -Church, the nave was made into West St. Giles’ Church, and the Old -Church occupied the south transept and other portions adjoining. The -police office, however, and the Town Clerk’s office were cleared out, -and the north transept, which was occupied by the former, was converted -into a spacious lobby, from which the three churches entered. - -Although the ancient architecture of the exterior of St. Giles’ was -entirely obliterated by the reconstruction of 1829, it should be added -that some advantage was obtained by the removal of the small houses and -booths which had been built against the structure and between the -buttresses. The houses called the Luckenbooths had also encroached far -too close to the edifice, and their removal was a great gain to the -church and the town generally. - -The position of affairs in connection with St. Giles’ was as above -described when, as Lord Provost, Dr. William Chambers conceived the idea -of removing the partitions which divided the structure, and again -throwing the whole into one noble building. By his exertions, and -greatly by his pecuniary aid, this object was effected between 1870 and -1883. The opening service after the restoration was performed by the -Very Rev. Dr. Lees, in the presence of a congregation of 3000 people. - -St. Giles’ Cathedral, as restored, is now, as regards its interior, one -of the largest and most interesting Gothic buildings in the country. - - -ST. MICHAEL’S PARISH CHURCH, LINLITHGOW, WEST LOTHIAN. - -A church dedicated to St. Michael existed here as early as the time of -David I. A new church is said to have been erected in 1242, and in 1384 -Robert II. contributed to its repair. A great fire occurred in 1424, -from which both the palace and church suffered great damage, and the -church seems to have been entirely rebuilt after that date. The -reconstruction of the edifice no doubt progressed, under the James’s, -simultaneously with the palace. In 1530-40, Thomas French, the king’s -master mason, was engaged at Linlithgow,[161] and it is possible that -the church may have received some internal embellishment under his -direction. - -This edifice is, in part, a good example of the Scottish decorated -period. The nave is the earliest part of the structure, and, from its -history and style, it would appear to have been erected before the -middle of the fifteenth century. The choir is of somewhat later date. -These two portions were separated by an arch, which was removed about -1814, when the choir was cut off by a wall from the nave, and converted -into a church with galleries. At that time, too, the present plaster -ceiling of nave and choir (in the form of groined vaulting) was -substituted for the open oaken roof which was formerly visible. The -original stone vaulting of the side aisles, however, still extends round -the whole building. The plaster groining of the apse was introduced at -the above period. Otherwise, the structure has been little altered in -its leading features. - -St. Michael’s (Fig. 856) consists of a choir, 53 feet from east to west, -by 65 feet from north to south, including two aisles, and a three-sided -apse at the east end; a nave, 95 feet in length by 65 feet in width, -including two aisles; two chapels inserted in the place (on the north -and south) - -[Illustration: FIG. 856.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. Plan.] - -usually occupied by the transept; a square tower at the west end; and a -south porch giving access to the nave. - -From the style of the architecture, we have no hesitation in deciding -that the nave is the oldest part of the structure. The simple section of -the piers (Fig. 857), and their moulded caps, with circular abaci and -characteristic bases (Fig. 858), together with the elegantly pointed -arch mouldings, with their wide and effective spans, are all strongly -allied to decorated work. The corresponding features in the choir (Fig. -859) are somewhat similar to those of the nave, but the details, -especially the caps and bases of the piers, with their long, straight -mouldings, are of a later character, and recall those of the east end of -St. Giles’ Cathedral erected after the middle of the fifteenth century. - -[Illustration: FIG. 857.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. Piers.] - -The vaulting of the side aisles, both in nave and choir, is of the -simplest description, but bold and light in its effect. The bosses of -the north aisle of the nave contain shields charged with armorial -bearings, and still partly coloured. Small shields (without charge) are -also picturesquely placed upon the nave piers (see Fig. 858). - -A broad stone bench or seat is carried all round the nave, and the bases -of the triple wall shafts of the vaulting, which are of good design, -rest upon it. Those of the choir, which are of different design, descend -to the floor, there being no bench in the choir. - -In the nave there are triforium openings in each bay, and clerestory -windows above them. The former have pointed arches, and each contains -two pointed and cusped lights, divided by a central mullion. The -clerestory windows have each a semicircular arch, and each contains a -two-light pointed and cusped opening (see Fig. 858). Both clerestory and -triforium openings have label mouldings in the interior. The light wall -shafts which carried the wooden roof rest on corbels at the clerestory -level. The choir (see Fig. 859) is distinguished from the nave by having -no triforium openings, but the clerestory windows are similar in both. - -The windows throughout the church are of large size, and mostly filled -with good and varied geometric tracery (Fig. 860). That of the south -transept has six lights, and the tracery (which has been renewed) is of -good design. The restoration of the tracery of this window was carried -out about 1840 by William Roberts, mason, who executed the work bit by -bit, making the new tracery an exact copy of the old, which had been a -good deal damaged. The south transept contained the altar of St. -Katherine. It was in this transept that the strange apparition was seen -by James IV. which warned him against his fatal expedition into England -before the battle of Flodden. - -[Illustration: FIG. 858.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. View from -South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 859.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. Choir.] - -The apse (Fig. 861), which is three-sided, is somewhat awkwardly fitted -on to the choir, being formed like a large bow window, extending beyond -the choir, from which it opens by a large semicircular arch in the east -wall (see Fig. 859). This wall is continued upwards on the exterior, so -as to form a gable, finished with crow-steps. The windows of the apse -are large, and the tracery of two of the windows is perpendicular in -character. - -The transepts (or north and south chapels) and the south porch are -constructed in a somewhat peculiar manner (see Figs. 862 and 863), -having crow-stepped gables both on their outer walls and also over the -inner or aisle wall which separates them from the church. The upper part -of these structures does not thus interfere with the aisle roof, but -stands apart from it, allowing the aisle roof and the clerestory to pass -clear behind them. The north chapel, with its round turret (see Fig. -862), forms a very picturesque feature of the edifice. Each of these -partly detached adjuncts contains an apartment over the vault (see Fig. -856). The chambers over the north transept and south porch are -approached by turret stairs, while access to that over the south -transept is obtained by passing along the gutter from the south porch -and entering by a door in the inner gable. The room over the south porch -seems to have been a place for preserving documents, there being three -wall presses, one having had double doors. The light from the small -oriel over the arch of the porch is not good. The room over the south -transept is provided with a large fireplace, and may have been used as a -kitchen; that over the north transept is empty and bare. The south -porch, with its picturesque upper oriel and stair turret (Fig. 863), is -a very interesting part of the edifice. The doorway has good mouldings -and bold enrichment in the arch, and the corbelled oriel is a peculiar -adjunct to the church. A similar one existed at St. Giles’, Edinburgh. - -The parapet of the south aisle of the choir is provided with plain -gargoyles (Fig. 864), twisted so as to throw the water off the windows; -but that of the nave has no gargoyles, the water being removed by pipes. -The cornice of the nave is also different from the rest of the building, -and has the appearance of being a comparatively recent repair. This may -have been executed at the same time as the repair of the tower (to be -referred to). The junction of the different parts of the parapet and -clerestory is seen in Figs. 860 and 864. - -The forms of the buttresses are worthy of notice (see Figs. 860 and -864). Those of the nave have a simpler character than those of the apse -and north transept. They are all well enriched with niches, having -carved canopies and corbels, but those of the choir and north transept -contain a more minute style of carving and ornament than those of the -nave. The numerous set-offs of the buttresses of the apse (see Fig. -861), - -[Illustration: FIG. 860.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. View from South.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 861.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. East End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 862.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. North Transept or -Chapel.] - -and the small and paltry character of the finials of the north transept -(see Fig. 862), indicate a late date. The canopies of the niches are - -[Illustration: FIG. 863.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. South Porch.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 864.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. South Side of -Choir.] - -ornamented in a somewhat elaborate style (Fig. 865), some of the -ornaments having a strong resemblance to the style of many of the -enrichments at Rosslyn. - -The buttress of the south-west angle of the nave, crowned with the -sculptured figure of St. Michael (Fig. 866), forms a striking feature on -approaching the church. To the left, under the west window of the south -aisle of the nave, may be observed three corbels in the aisle wall, -which have apparently carried a pent roof, under which there is an -oblong aperture in the wall of the church. It is said that pensioners -here received their dole, but the use of the opening is not clear. - -[Illustration: FIG. 865.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. Canopies of -Choir.] - -The western tower (see Fig. 860) once formed an important feature of St. -Michael’s. It was originally terminated with a crown of open stonework, -similar to that of St. Giles’ in Edinburgh. But, about 1821, this crown -was found to be in a dangerous state, and had to be taken down. The -tower would appear to have been an addition to the original structure. -The Plan shows that a part of the original west wall has been cut out, -and the thicker wall of the tower inserted. This is seen both externally -and internally, and the awkward junction of the tower with the nave is -also apparent. The tower itself is of good design, but late--probably of -the same period as the apse. It contains a remarkable entrance doorway -(Fig. 867), quite Continental in style, which may possibly be the work -of Thomas French, the king’s master mason. Above this doorway there is a -large perpendicular window. The upper part of the tower is plain and -solid, and would contrast well with the airy crown on top. - -In the interior the tower is designed so as to produce a good effect. It -opens into the nave with a wide and lofty arch (Fig. 868) carried up to -the clerestory level; and the groined vault of the tower, with the large -window below, as seen through the arch, produce a good effect. In - -[Illustration: FIG. 866.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. South-West -Buttress of Nave.] - -each side wall of the tower there is a richly canopied recess, evidently -intended to receive monuments or sculpture, but now empty. - -[Illustration: FIG. 867.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. West Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 868.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. Interior of -Tower.] - -A portion of what appears to have been a carved altar-piece has been -preserved in the church (Fig. 869). It consists of two panels, which -have evidently formed part of a series, representing scenes in our -Lord’s Passion and death. The panel on the left shows the scene in the -garden, with the three apostles asleep; and the panel on the right -exhibits the betrayal. - -[Illustration: FIG. 869.--St. Michael’s Parish Church. Carved -Altar-piece.] - -The Church of St. Michael’s is one of the largest of the ancient parish -churches of Scotland. The wall which separated the nave and choir has -recently been removed, and the whole thrown into one church. In 1559 the -building was taken possession of by the Lords of the Congregation, in -their march from Perth to Edinburgh, when the altars and images were -destroyed, the figure of St. Michael (see Fig. 866) only escaping -demolition. - -The steeple contains three old bells--one dated 1490, and the other two -recast during the eighteenth century. - - -ST. MONANS CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. - -St. Monans is the name of one of the numerous fishing villages on the -Fifeshire coast of the Frith of Forth, and lies about three miles west -from Anstruther. The village derives its name from St. Monan, who, by -tradition, is believed to have been a missionary to the Picts in the -eighth century, and to have suffered martyrdom by the Danes on the Isle -of May. His body is said to have been buried on the mainland; and over -it a small chapel was subsequently erected, which had a reputation for -cures. Dr. Skene, however, thinks that St. Monan was Bishop of Clonfert, -and that his relics were brought from Ireland to Fife about 845, and -deposited in a church erected in his honour.[162] This original chapel -was replaced with a larger edifice by David II. in 1362, in gratitude -for his miraculous escape, through St. Monan’s influence, from the fatal -effects of the barb of an arrow with which he was wounded at Durham. Sir -William Dishington, of the adjoining estate of Ardross, was appointed -master of the works;[163] and between 1362 and 1370 the sum of £613, 7s. -was paid to him in connection with the fabric, besides £6, 13s. 4d. for -the carpenter work. Dishington hired a ship from a burgess of Inverness -to convey timber from there for the building; and there appear to have -been three freights, which cost for transit £20, £10, and £7, 17s. 8d. -In 1364 and 1366, before the church was finished, there are payments to -at least three chaplains celebrating at St. Monans, two of whom had £10 -and the other 20 merks yearly.[164] - -About a century after the founding of the church, it was bestowed by -James III. on the Dominicans. In 1544 it is said to have suffered a good -deal at the hands of the English. The structure, however, still -survives, and has long been used as the parish church. It is most -picturesquely situated on the rocks, at the junction of a small stream -with the sea; and, although exposed to the violence of the tempests and -the waves for several centuries, it still retains more of its original -architecture than most of our more favourably situated churches. - -The building (Fig. 870) consists of a chancel, north and south -transepts, and a tower and spire over the crossing. Although a nave has -evidently been intended, it has never been built. The chancel is 50 feet -long by 23 feet wide internally. It is divided into four bays, marked -externally by buttresses, with traceried windows between them (Fig. -871); and, internally, by groined vaults, springing from wall shafts -between the bays (Fig. 872). The east end (see Fig. 871) has two -traceried windows, with a buttress between, surmounted by a small oblong -light, filled with tracery. The north and south transepts are each 17 -feet in length by 18 feet in width. The north transept (Fig. 873) has a -three-light window to the north and a two-light window to the west; and -the ceiling is covered with a groined vault, having numerous ribs. The -south transept (Fig. 874) has two windows to the south and one to the -west. The crossing has large clustered piers supporting the arches (see -Fig. 872), which carry the tower and spire. The western end is built up -with a solid wall (see Fig. 874), without any indication of an arch to -the nave. It contains a tall traceried window of two lights, with a -transom in the centre of the height. A turret stair at the north-west -angle leads to the top of the tower. - -[Illustration: FIG. 870.--St. Monans Church. Plan.] - -The evidence of the _Exchequer Rolls_ is conclusive as to a church -having been erected here, at considerable outlay, in the fourteenth -century; but, - -[Illustration: FIG. 871.--St. Monans Church. View from South-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 872.--St. Monans Church. Choir, looking East.] - -to judge from the architecture alone, it seems scarcely possible to -believe that the church we now see is the one erected in the time of -David II. All - -[Illustration: FIG. 873.--St. Monans Church. View from North-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 874.--St. Monans Church. South Transept.] - -the features of the structure point to a date later by about a century. -The church having been bestowed by James III. on the Dominicans, one -would be inclined to ascribe the erection or, perhaps, restoration of -the edifice to his reign. The style of church erected in the fifteenth -century was generally a cross church, without aisles. St. Monans is -designed on - -[Illustration: FIG. 875.--St. Monans Church. East End of Choir.] - -that plan, and, like many of the other cross churches, remains -incomplete, the nave not having been erected. In almost all its details -it corresponds with the Scottish structures of the fifteenth century. -The windows have all splays running round the jambs and arches, without -caps; and the tracery is of an undoubtedly late Scottish form (see Figs. -871 and 875). The curious small upper window in the east end could -scarcely be of fourteenth century date. - -The vaulting (see Fig. 874) is groined, and has main and subsidiary ribs -or tiercerons. This is not usual in the collegiate churches of the -fifteenth century, in which the pointed barrel vault is commonly used; -but we have one prominent example in the Trinity College Kirk of -Edinburgh, built about 1460, in which groined and ribbed vaulting was -fully carried out. The ribs at St. Monans are arranged in a rather -singular manner. There is a well-marked ridge rib, and there are also -transverse ridge ribs; but the latter stop at the point where the -tiercerons meet them; and from that point the transverse ridge ribs -slope down to the apex of the windows, where they are received by a -small corbel (Fig. 875). The tiercerons are also irregularly placed; -they do not spring, like the other ribs, from the cap of the vaulting -shaft, but die away into the wall some way up the wall rib. These -peculiarities have the appearance of late and imperfect workmanship. It -will be observed that the single wall shafts, from the capital of which -the vaulting ribs spring, have no bases. - -The sedilia (see Fig. 875) in the south wall of the choir of St. Monans -may be regarded as decorated work. We find similar, and even finer, work -of this description at Crosraguel Abbey in the fifteenth century. - -The buttresses are simple, and might belong to almost any period. It -should be stated that the tops of the buttresses were “restored” early -in this century. The want of a parapet at the roof is peculiar, and may -possibly be the effect of restoration. It is evident that a parapet has -been intended at the gable of the south transept, where there is a door -for access to the parapet walk (see Fig. 874). The peculiar character of -this transept is remarkable. The two small round-headed windows, with -their deep recess, and the great expanse of dead wall above them, must -certainly be considered as of late design. - -The stunted style of the square tower (see Figs. 871 and 873), which -just rises above the roofs, is quite in keeping with the Scottish towers -of the fifteenth century. The parapet is supported on corbels, which are -different on three of the sides. The tower is surmounted by an octagonal -spire, which is of the usual rather stunted form common in the fifteenth -century. Some of the details, such as the numerous lucarnes, may be even -later. - -It will be observed that the sedilia is placed at a considerable height -above the floor. This may arise from the steps leading to the altar -having been removed, and the floor of the whole of the east end lowered -to the general level of the choir; or, perhaps, the floor of the whole -church has been lowered. The bases of the piers at the crossing, which -are of a very unusual height, would rather support the latter view (see -Fig. 872). - -It is not clear where the original entrance to the church was situated. -Two doors in the east end now give access to it, but these are clearly -modern innovations. There is a pointed doorway in the north wall of the -choir (see Fig. 872), which now gives access to a vestry, and, from its -position, it seems likely to have originally led to the sacristy. - -Whether viewed from the village as one approaches the church from the -opposite high bank of the burn (see Fig. 873), or as seen from the rocky -shore (see Fig. 871), the Church of St. Monans, both from its situation -and the completeness and charm of its ancient architecture, is one of -the most picturesque and interesting structures of its class in -Scotland. - -Although, from what is above said, we cannot regard this structure as so -old as 1360, still we consider it worthy of being included amongst the -Scottish examples of decorated work. - - -WHITHORN PRIORY, WIGTONSHIRE. - -The name of Whithorn is a venerable one in Scottish annals. Here, -according to tradition, St. Ninian, in the beginning of the fifth -century, planted the first seeds of Christianity in Scotland. It is -disputed whether his first oratory, called _Candida Casa_, was -established, after the manner of the early hermits, on a small isle or -peninsula at the point of the promontory which lies between the bays of -Luce and Wigton, about three miles south from Whithorn, or on the spot -where the monastery afterwards arose. There are the ruins of a small -chapel[165] on “The Isle,” and although that structure evidently belongs -to a much later time, it is surmised by Mr. Muir and others that it is -probably the successor of St. Ninian’s first foundation. - -It has been mentioned in the Introduction[166] that other indications -exist in this region in the form of ancient sculptured stones, which -point to its early Christianisation, and that after a great school of -religious instruction had been established here, it gradually died out, -and became practically extinct. But under David I. a new religious -fervour arose, and the diocese of _Candida Casa_ was established between -1124 and 1130. This part of Galloway having been long under the sway of -Northumbria, the bishop remained under the jurisdiction of the see of -York till 1472, when the archbishopric of St. Andrews was constituted; -and, in 1491, when Glasgow was made a metropolitan see, the Bishop of -Galloway became Vicar-General. - -The priory of Whithorn was founded in the time of David I. by his -friend Fergus, Lord of Galloway. It was colonised by Premonstratensian -Canons, and became the chief church of the diocese of Galloway. - -The sanctity of St. Ninian’s shrine was universally recognised, and it -was constantly visited by thousands of pilgrims, many of them the most -distinguished persons in the land. King Robert Bruce made the pilgrimage -to Whithorn in 1329, not long before his death. Other royal personages -also visited the ancient seat. James IV. paid annual visits, and -sometimes went twice in the year. From the _Accounts of the Lord High -Treasurer_ we learn that he made the pilgrimage in state, accompanied by -a large retinue, including his minstrels. The priory naturally became -wealthy, and the church and other buildings were of great extent. - -[Illustration: FIG. 876.--Whithorn Priory. Plan of Nave.] - -In 1587 the property was, by Act of Parliament, annexed to the Crown; -and in 1606 it was granted by James VI. to the Bishop of Galloway. It -became transferred, in 1641, to the College of Glasgow, and finally, in -1689, it reverted to the Crown. - -All the documents which might throw light on the history of the -monastery have, unfortunately, been lost. They are supposed to have -either been destroyed or carried abroad by the canons at the -Reformation. Some distinguished men held the office of prior, amongst -whom were Gavin Dunbar, who was prior in 1514, and afterwards tutor to -James V., and Archbishop of Glasgow; and James Beaton, who also -subsequently became Archbishop of Glasgow and St. Andrews.[167] - -Of the extensive buildings of the monastery there remained standing, in -1684, according to Symson, only the steeple and the body of the great -church; all the remainder was in ruins, or had been carried away. The - -[Illustration: FIG. 877.--Whithorn Priory. Ground Plan. - - -1. Foundations of West Tower, which fell at the beginning of last -century. - -2. Gable then erected, closing and contracting Parish Church. - -3. In its complete state, Nave of the Old Priory Church, closed at east -end by a sixteenth or seventeenth century gable. - -4. Burial Vault of the Murrays of Broughton, seventeenth century. - -5. Site of Cloisters. - -6. Site of Domestic Buildings of Priory, on the foundations of which the -present Parish Church was erected, 1822. - -7. Ancient Entrance to Domestic Buildings. - -8. Remains of Slype, uncovered December 1888. - -9. Piece of well-laid Rubble Causeway, with good Camber. - -10. Chapter House, Site of. - -11. Remains of Pillar found in situ. - -12. Small portion of twelfth century South Transept. - -13. Crypt of a later Transept, with small circular and domed chamber, -and angle buttresses of uncertain projection. - -14. Chancel Crypt, originally rib-vaulted, now barrel-vaulted. - -15. Stair from Church to Crypt, now blocked. - -16. Larder, or Apartment connected with the preparation of edible -animals for the kitchen. - -17. Foundations of Lady Chapel. - -Making the entire length of Buildings, inclusive of West Tower, nearly -250 feet.] - -tower at the west end of the church, which contained the belfry, fell -more than a century ago, and, in falling, destroyed the west gable of -the church. - -The buildings of the priory have now been reduced to the nave (Fig. -876), an aisleless structure, 74 feet long by 24 feet wide internally, -and to some underground vaulted buildings, which no doubt formerly -supported the choir and other erections above. Considerable excavations -and investigations have recently been made on the site by the Marquis of -Bute, under the careful superintendence of Mr. William Galloway, -architect, whom we have to thank for the accompanying Plan (Fig. 877) -showing the outline of all that remains of the priory. The explanations -attached to the Plan give Mr. Galloway’s views as to the various parts -of the edifice. - -[Illustration: FIG. 878.--Whithorn Priory. Nave, from South-East.] - -The west tower (1), which fell in the beginning of last century, is now -a mere ruin a few feet in height, and the new west wall (2), built in -consequence of the destruction of the old gable wall, diminishes the -size of the nave. The eastern wall of the nave (Fig. 878) is a -post-Reformation erection, evidently added to enable the old nave to be -used as a parish church. The cloister (5) lay to the north of the nave, -which accounts for there being no windows in the north wall of the -latter. Not a vestige now remains of the cloister walk or garth. - -The chapter house (10), slype (8), and (6) site of domestic buildings -extended to the north of the transept. The old foundations and portions -of walls remain in connection with the parts tinted black. The parish -church (6) is now built on old foundations, with a porch at 7. 9 shows a -piece of causeway flooring _in situ_, and 11 is the foundation of a -pillar of the chapter house. The crypts (14), which are on a basement -floor, show the extent of the choir, and 13 is the crypt or basement of -a large building to the south. A considerable portion of the vaulting of -these crypts has been preserved. To the east 17 probably indicates the -foundations of the lady chapel. To the north of the choir is a detached -structure (16), believed, from the remains of feathers, &c. found in it, -to have been a larder. The remainder of the ground is entirely covered -with graves, so that it was only accidentally that a small portion of -the foundation of the south transept (12) was discovered. - -[Illustration: FIG. 879.--Whithorn Priory. Tomb Recess in Nave.] - -The nave (see Fig. 878) still retains its ancient side walls, which are -probably of the fifteenth century. The south-east doorway is of good -form, and the mouldings are also good. “It bears the arms of Alexander -Vaus, Bishop from 1426 to 1450.”[168] In the interior (Fig. 879) the -north wall - -[Illustration: FIG. 880.--Whithorn Priory. South-West Doorway of Nave.] - -contains two pointed recesses for monuments, of which the design is -excellent. The general design is of first pointed character, but the -moulding on the left side has been repaired with ornament of fifteenth - -[Illustration: FIG. 881.--Whithorn Priory. Font.] - -century work. The most important feature connected with the nave is the -doorway at the south-west angle (Fig. 880). It is set in a slight -projection of the wall, which contains features, such as the pointed -window over the doorway, which indicate a late period. The doorway -itself is undoubtedly Norman, and probably of an early date. It is much -worn away, and has been greatly damaged by the erection of a porch (now -removed), the roof of which has cut into the mouldings. The shafts are -built in nooks, and have caps carved with owls’ heads and other -ornaments, now much decayed. One cap is carved with a quatrefoil, which -is certainly a late addition. The abacus is of simple section, and is -carved with sunk faceted ornaments. The arch comprises four orders, -besides a hood mould. Three of these orders are enriched with chevron -ornaments, and one order (the second from the inner opening) has an -irregular arrangement of geometric patterns and circular discs. Similar -geometric patterns are introduced in the west doorway at Dunfermline -Abbey. It will be observed that some of the voussoirs are incomplete. -Thus in the outer order the second voussoir to the left of the head over -the centre has the chevron very imperfectly cut, and is evidently an -insertion. The same remark applies to the voussoir below it to the -right, which has only one half of a chevron, and in the next order -straight below the head a rounded stone is substituted for the proper -voussoir. All these divergences from the usual careful work of Norman -building seem to indicate that there has been an alteration of the -doorway. Most probably it has been rebuilt and the imperfect voussoirs -introduced to make up deficiencies in the old work. - -The hood mould, which is plain, had a terminal at each end, carved as a -large human head. - -The remarkable figures carved on the projecting wall, above each side of -the arch, are worthy of observation. The sculpture on the right side and -the lower one on the left have a strong resemblance to the figures often -found on the ancient sculptured stones, and, when taken in connection -with the sculptures at Dalmeny, point to a close affinity between the -sculptured figures on the ancient stones and the architecture of the -twelfth century in Scotland. It may be mentioned that many fragments of -sculptured stones, chiefly carved with interlacing work, have been dug -up in the neighbourhood, and are kept in the existing part of the old -church. - -The ancient font (Fig. 881) has been preserved. It is bowl shaped and -extremely simple in design, and may be of Norman date. Mr. Galloway -informs us that it was long used as a trough for pounding stucco, and -stood at the Town Hall. It is now reverently placed in the church. - - -TEMPLE CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. - -[Illustration: FIG. 882.--Temple Church. Plan.] - -The ancient Church of Temple is beautifully situated in the valley of -the river South Esk, about three miles from Gorebridge Railway Station, -and seven miles south from Dalkeith. As the name implies, this site was -(in the time of David I.) the residence of the Knights Templars. - -Before the Reformation there were three churches in the upper valley of -the Esk, which belonged to the monks of Newbotle. One of these, called -Balentradoch, was granted by Pope Clement V., in 1312, after the -suppression of the Templars, to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John. At -the Reformation the three churches were united into one parish, and the -existing structure was used as the parish church till 1832, when a new -church was erected near it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 883.--Temple Church. View from South-East.] - -The plan of the church (Fig. 882) is a simple oblong, 55 feet in length -by 17 feet 9 inches in width internally. A portion at the west end, -measuring about 17 feet 6 inches externally, has been added since the -Reformation. This portion contained a gallery, entered by a high outside -doorway in the north-west corner. There are in the west wall a -round-headed doorway on the ground level and a high window with two -pointed lights over it. Some doorways have also been opened in the older -part of the structure about the same time--viz., one in the centre of -the north wall and one at the east end of the south wall. - -[Illustration: FIG. 884.--Temple Church. East End of North Wall.] - -The more ancient part of the building is in good preservation, although -roofless. It contains a large traceried window in the east wall (Fig. -883), and has had two traceried windows, each with three lights, in each -of the side walls. These windows are well preserved, except the west one -in the north wall, which has been practically removed and built up, only -the interior sconsions being now traceable. To the west of the above -windows there occur two narrow lancet windows, one in the north and one -in the south wall, opposite one another. There is an ancient -trefoil-headed doorway in the north wall (Fig. 884), and at the -north-east angle of the same wall a broad set-off is visible at a high -level, - -[Illustration: FIG. 885.--Temple Church. Interior of East End.] - -indicating that there must have been some structure with a sloping stone -roof (possibly a monument) under it. The wall at this place has been -rebuilt. In the interior of the north wall (Fig. 885), under the -eastmost side window, a segmentally-arched recess is introduced. It is -about 6 feet 2 inches long, and has had good mouldings springing from -small shafts and caps, but is now greatly destroyed. This may have been -an easter sepulchre. In the interior of the south wall there has been a -sedilia with two seats (see Fig. 885), each having a trefoil-headed -arch, with bold roll on edge, of which only a small portion survives. - -Externally (see Fig. 883) the building is provided with a buttress at -each side of the east end, and another at right angles to it at the -south-east angle. A similar buttress occurs on the south wall between -the two south windows. These buttresses are all finished with acute -gablets and fleur-de-lys ridges, and the string course and base are -returned round them. - -[Illustration: FIG. 886.--Temple Church. - -Details of Windows.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 887.--Temple Church. - -Details.] - -The east window has a double splay on the jambs (Fig. 886), and the arch -mouldings, which consist of bold rolls, partly filleted, die against the -splays. The hood moulding has carved terminals, apparently of animals. -The intersecting tracery is simple, and the mullions are splayed, and -each aperture between the curved branches of the mullions contains a -chamfered circle. There is no cusping. - -In the interior (see Fig. 885), the opening of the east window being -wider than on the exterior, the arch is larger and the springing is -lower. It is moulded with a large filleted roll, and has a hood (Fig. -887). The roll rests on a round moulded cap, which crowns the angle -shaft of the sconsion. - -[Illustration: FIG. 888. - -Temple Church, Rear Arch of Side Windows.] - -The side windows have also arch mouldings, which die against the splays -of the jambs (see Fig. 886), and the hoods are terminated with roses, or -animals like lizards, much decayed. The tracery is simple, and the large -circle over the central light is peculiar. The sconsions are plain, but -the sconsion arches are segmental and moulded (see Figs. 885 and 888). -The two lancet windows to the west have hoods terminated with roses, and -the sconsion arches are segmental and moulded. Beneath the windows a -filleted roll runs round the building as a string course, and one course -below it is a broadly splayed base course, with a lower base under it -(see Fig. 883). These mouldings only extend round the older part of the -structure, the newer portion at the west end having a separate base of a -different character. - -The east gable still retains its sloping cope, which has at the base a -small gablet erected upon the skew putt, finished with a fleur-de-lys -ridge. In the gable (see Fig. 883) over the east window there is a -circular aperture, now blocked up; and on the apex there has been -erected, in comparatively recent times, a plain bellcot, with pyramidal -roof. - -On a stone at the base of the bellcot the following Roman letters have -been run in with lead--viz., V Æ S A C, and below these, M I H M. Round -the corner of the same stone, on the north side, are the similar letters -R I. The meaning of these letters has not been explained. Possibly the -stone has been brought from somewhere else, where the context might have -rendered the letters intelligible. - -From the general style of the details of the building there can be no -difficulty in fixing its date during the middle pointed period. Most of -the mouldings are of an early character, but some of the features (such -as the arch mouldings dying on the jambs) are later. Besides, in -Scotland allowance must be made for backwardness, and we should be -inclined to regard this structure as being of about the end of the -fourteenth century. It is valuable as an example of the decorated period -in Scotland, of which period few, if any, parish churches are now to be -found. - - -THE PARISH CHURCH, HADDINGTON, EAST LOTHIAN. - -The town of Haddington is situated on the left bank of the Tyne, near -the centre of the county to which it gives its name. It is of very -ancient date, having been a royal residence from the time of David I. -till the thirteenth century. The last remains of the royal palace were -only removed in 1833. The town was formerly well provided with -ecclesiastical edifices, having, besides the Parish Church, the -monasteries of the Franciscans and Dominicans, the Cistercian Nunnery -(about a mile lower down the river), and the chapels of St. Martin, St. -Ann, St. Katherine, St. John, and St. Ninian. Of these establishments, -the only one (except St. Martin’s, already described)[169] of which any -trace of the structure remains is the Parish Church, which, although now -to a great extent ruinous, still retains enough of its noble -architecture to justify its ancient name of the “Lamp of Lothian.” - -Considerable difference of opinion has been expressed as to the identity -of the existing edifice. Dr. Barclay, who wrote in 1792,[170] says:--“I -am decidedly of opinion that the present Parish Church of Haddington is -the same that formerly belonged to the Franciscans, and which Major -says was called _Lucerna Laudoniæ_; as a field, now converted into a -garden, and which is still styled the Friars’ Croft, lies contiguous to -the churchyard, and is not above 30 yards distant from the Parish -Church.” - -On the other hand, as has been pointed out by Mr. Robb in his _Guide to -Haddington_, the site of the property of the Franciscans is fully -described in the charter of 1560 disponing it to the burgh, which -charter is signed by one of the friars. From this it appears that the -position of the Church of the Franciscans, as defined by the boundaries -of their lands, lay a little way lower down the river. One of the -boundaries is called in the charter the high road leading towards the -Parish Church, thus indicating that the Parish Church was different from -the Church of the Franciscans. Besides, the other boundaries are pretty -distinctly defined, and may still be followed. - -This matter has been further fully discussed in a paper by Mr. Henry F. -Kerr, in the _Transactions of the Edinburgh Architectural Association_, -Vol. I. p. 21, in which Mr. Kerr concurs with Mr. Robb’s views. - -The Church of the Franciscans, as ascertained from an old charter of the -friars, was founded in 1258, and was a splendid structure. Not a trace -of it now remains. - -Another croft, nearer the Parish Church, called the King’s Yard, of -which the boundaries are described, also belonged to the Franciscans. On -this land Haddington House[171] was erected in 1680, and the croft was -converted into a garden. In 1477 King James III. made over this field to -Sir Richard Cockburn of Clubington, who afterwards gave it as a gift to -the friars of the Franciscan monastery. At the Reformation the friars -disponed it to the town, and its boundaries are fully described in a -charter of 1580.[172] It is believed that this is the field, “still -called the Friars’ Croft,” which misled Dr. Barclay into the belief that -the Parish Church was that of the Franciscans. - -The Abbey, or Nunnery, of Haddington (above referred to as being one -mile east of the town) was of ancient foundation, having been founded, -in 1178, by Ada, Countess of Northumberland, widow of Prince Henry, and -mother of Malcolm the Maiden and William the Lion. It was occupied by -Cistercian Nuns, and possessed the Nungate, or suburb of Haddington, -lying on the east side of the Tyne. Owing to its situation so near the -Borders, and also to its proximity to the Tyne, the town of Haddington -and its religious establishments were much exposed to injury, both by -the invading hosts from the South and by the flooded waters of the -river, and it also suffered severely on several occasions from fire. The -town was burnt in 1244. - -In 1355 Edward III. invaded Scotland, when the town and the Church of -the Franciscans were destroyed, together with numerous other towns and -churches in the South of Scotland. So severe was this attack that it was -long recalled in that part of the country as the “burnt Candlemas,” the -invasion having taken place in the month of February. - -In 1358 the town was overwhelmed with an extraordinary inundation, when -the Nungate, or suburb on the eastern bank of the river, was levelled -with the ground, and the sacristy of the church was flooded and its -contents destroyed. - -The ancient Church of Haddington, which was dedicated to the Virgin, was -founded by David I., and by him granted, in 1134, to the priory of St. -Andrews. The existing structure is of considerably later date. There is -no record of its erection; but, from the style of the architecture, it -was probably rebuilt in the first half of the fifteenth century. - -The church (Fig. 889) is cruciform, having choir and nave, both with -side aisles, and north and south transepts without aisles. The choir is -77 feet long and 54 feet 11 inches wide internally (including the -aisles), and consists of four bays; the transept is 105 feet 4½ inches -long, from north to south, by 23 feet 2½ inches wide; and the nave is 47 -feet 6 inches long by 56 feet wide (including the side aisles), and is -divided into five bays. The structure is thus of considerable -dimensions, the total internal length being 196 feet 8 inches. Over the -crossing rises the central tower, 90 feet in height. - -The nave is the only part of the edifice which is roofed and occupied, -being still used as the Parish Church. The choir and transepts are -ruinous, and the walls have had to be supported with iron rances and -ties, which greatly spoil the appearance of the interior of the choir. -Otherwise the walls are pretty complete. - -There is no record of there having been any destruction of the church by -popular outbreak at the Reformation, to which fact we may attribute the -comparatively perfect state of the structure at the present time. - -The design of the interior of the choir (Figs. 890 and 891) comprises in -each bay a main arcade, resting on simple clustered piers of rather -diminutive height, having bases and caps, the mouldings and foliage of -which clearly belong to the middle pointed or decorated period. There is -no triforium; but the arches of the main arcade being large and lofty, -comparatively little plain wall space is left between them and the -string course, but the wall space below the clerestory windows is plain -and heavy. The latter windows are pointed and filled with simple -tracery. The choir was entirely vaulted, both in centre and side aisles, -the central vault springing from vaulting shafts resting on the capitals -of the main piers, but only stumps of the ribs remain at the springing -of the vaults. - -The windows of the side aisles, which are lofty (see Fig. 890), have -been provided with tracery, having rather elaborate cusping. Many - -[Illustration: FIG. 889.--The Parish Church, Haddington. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 890.--The Parish Church, Haddington. The Choir, from -the South Transept.] - -parts of the building, such as the gargoyles, label terminals, caps, &c. -are ornamented with grotesque carvings of various kinds of animals, - -[Illustration: FIG. 891.--The Parish Church, Haddington. South Side of -Choir and East Side of Tower.] - -foliage, &c. (see Fig. 896). The tracery in the large pointed east -window is modern. - -[Illustration: FIG. 892.--The Parish Church, Haddington. North Side of -Nave.] - -On the north side of the choir a chapel has been built in the -seventeenth century to contain the monuments of the Lauderdale family--a -fine specimen of Renaissance work.[173] - -[Illustration: FIG. 893.--The Parish Church, Haddington. View from -North-West.] - -The nave appears to have been originally of the same design as the -choir; but about the beginning of this century it underwent considerable -repairs and improvements, which greatly altered the character of the -design, both externally and internally. As it was desired to introduce -galleries in the side aisles, it was found necessary to raise the height -of the main piers and arches. This was effected by taking off the caps, -carrying up the piers for 6 feet 4 inches, and putting the caps on -again, - -[Illustration: FIG. 894.--The Parish Church, Haddington. South Transept -and Choir.] - -the arches being also taken down and rebuilt at the new height, as shown -in Fig. 892. The outer walls of the aisles were also carried up about 3 -feet, the buttresses being heightened at the same time, and finished -with new pinnacles of a totally different design from the old ones - -[Illustration: FIG. 895.--The Parish Church, Haddington. West Doorway.] - -(Fig. 893), some of which still remain on the buttresses of the choir -(Fig. 894). The latter are in character with the pinnacles of the late -pointed period in Scotland, while the new pinnacles of the nave are of a -quite different description. At the time of these alterations the -opportunity was taken to introduce a perforated and crenellated parapet, -evidently copied from some English example. - -These alterations were only carried out in 1811, but the white stone -used being of a soft character, the work has now a weather-worn and -ancient appearance, which renders the distinction between the old and -new work somewhat difficult. The drawing of the church by Grose, and a -view in Dr. Barclay’s paper in the _Proceedings of the Society of -Antiquaries of Scotland_, show the condition of the nave before the -alterations of 1811 took place, proving that the buttresses, &c., then -erected are new. - -The west front (see Fig. 893) has, fortunately, not been so much -interfered with. This elevation is specially characteristic of Scottish -design. It contains the main doorway of the building (Fig. 895), in -which the circular arch (so often employed, especially in the doorways -of Scottish churches) is used; but it is enriched with the mouldings and -ornaments of the late decorated style (see Fig. 896). The mouldings and -foliage of the caps are specially striking and characteristic, while the -large leaves introduced amongst the arch mouldings are somewhat late in -design. The large arch is divided into two smaller openings by a central -pillar, the cap of which is of good design. It contains a shield (see -Fig. 896), surrounded with foliage, on which are carved the crown of -thorns, with a heart in the centre, and two hands and feet and the -nails, all emblems of the Passion. - -Above the west doorway there is a very large pointed window (see Fig. -893), filled with mullions and tracery. The wide opening is divided into -two sections by a large central mullion, branching into two arches at -top; and these subdivisions each contain smaller tracery. It has been -suggested that this west window has been heightened, the jambs being so -low up to the caps and the pointed arch above so high; but there is no -apparent alteration to justify this view. This form of window is not -infrequent in late Scottish architecture, as at Paisley transept, Seton -Chapel, &c. - -The parapet above the window is evidently modern, and the gable has -doubtless been heightened. - -This part of the church has recently undergone a fresh restoration, but -it consisted almost entirely of the removal of the galleries in the -aisles and new seating in the centre. The pillars and arches of the -interior have been allowed to remain at the high level to which they -were heightened during the previous restoration; and it is fairly -questionable whether they are not more effective as altered than when -they stood at the original lower level. - -The aisles having been originally vaulted, the old vault stood at the -former low level. The ancient wall rib was, therefore, at that level, -but was chipped off during the restoration. The stones which composed -the wall rib can still be traced in the walls in both aisles (see Fig. -892). The string course over the main arches was originally at the same -height as in the choir, but had to be chipped off. Traces of it can -still be seen. The heightening of the piers had also the effect of -cutting off the lower part of the vaulting shafts, thus depriving them -of the base which they have in the choir. The old vaulting was -necessarily removed when the aisles were heightened, and the church is -now vaulted in plaster. - -[Illustration: FIG. 896.--The Parish Church, Haddington. - -1, 2, and 3. Details of West Doorway. 4. Cap of Shaft, Nave Clerestory. -5. Jamb of West Window.] - -The tracery of the windows of the nave has been renewed, and is entirely -without cusping. - -The transept has been to some extent destroyed, especially at the - -[Illustration: FIG. 897.--The Parish Church, Haddington. North Transept -and Tower.] - -north end, the north wall being demolished. The corbels and wall ribs -(Fig. 897) show how each end was divided into two bays, and that the -whole was vaulted. Owing to the absence of aisles, the transept walls, -which have few windows, have a heavy aspect, especially externally, -where the blank wall is not much relieved by the buttresses employed. -This is seen in the view of the south transept (see Fig. 894). - -The tower over the crossing (see Fig. 894) is one of the most effective -parts of the structure. It is about 30 feet square, and rises above the -church as a square-angled structure, without buttresses or breaks. It -has a lofty triple window in each face, each opening being crowned with -a semicircular arch, and divided in the centre by an ornamental transom. - -On each side of the tower two niches, with carved canopies and corbels -(but now without statues), occupy the plain space between the windows -and the corners of the structure. - -Originally the tower was crowned with a canopy or spire of open work, -similar to those which still exist at St. Giles’, Edinburgh, and King’s -College, Aberdeen, and also that which formerly crowned the tower of -Linlithgow Church. A slight corbelled break in the centre of each face -of the tower indicates that a rib sprang from the centre of each face, -as well as the angles of the tower, thus producing the effect of an -octagonal crown, as at St. Giles’. Large picturesque gargoyles still -break the line of the cornice on top. - -The whole church seems to have been designed and constructed at the same -period--probably about the middle of the fifteenth century. The choir -and nave were almost identical in their general features as originally -executed; and the details of the piers, mouldings, bases, caps, &c., are -very similar in both divisions. The style of the carved foliage is also -similar in each, and bears the stamp of Scottish decorated work, but -rather late in the style. - -As an indication that the building was completed about the middle of the -fifteenth century, there occur in the “Buke of Auld Register of -Haidinton”[174] many entries of gifts of chalices and other furnishings -made to the various altars in the church, extending from 1423 to 1463, -showing that “more than ordinary interest had been taken in the ‘Paroche -Kirk.’” - -The altars were the following:-- - -1. Our Lady Altar. -2. Haly Blude Altar. -3. St. Blaise’s Altar. -4. St. John’s Altar. -5. The Three Kings of Cologne. -6. St. Salvator’s Altar. -7. St. Katrine’s Altar. -8. St. Mychael’s Altar. -9. St. Towbart’s Altar. -10. Crispin and Crispianus. -11. Trinity Altar.[175] - -At the Reformation the possessions of the church and chapel dependent on -it fell to Queen Mary’s brother, the Earl of Moray, who was Prior of -St. Andrews. They were afterwards seized by the Earl of Morton, and, at -his forfeiture, passed to the Crown. They were next presented by James -VI. to his favourite, Esmé, Duke of Lennox, as a temporal lordship; and -ultimately came into the hands of the Earl of Hopetoun. - -It has already been mentioned that the building of the church does not -appear to have suffered from any outbreak at the Reformation; but the -fabric has been damaged to a considerable extent. The town was subjected -to a siege in 1548, when it was held by the English after the battle of -Pinkie, and was attacked and taken by the Scots and their French allies. -It is not unlikely that the church may have suffered damage at that -time, as it is stated that certain of the chapels did. - - -BALMERINO ABBEY,[176] FIFESHIRE. - -The few fragments which survive of this once extensive structure stand -on a height overlooking the Frith of Tay from its south or Fife shore, -about three or four miles south-west from Dundee. - -The Cistercian Abbey of Balmerino was founded in the year 1229 by Queen -Ermengard, widow of William the Lion, and her son, Alexander II. The -foundation charter by the latter is dated 3rd February 1230-1. The abbey -was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and to the most holy King Edward. - -Queen Ermengard obtained possession of the adjoining lands in the year -1225, and it is supposed that building operations were commenced -immediately after the foundation, as on the 13th December 1229, the -original colony of monks for Balmerino set out from Melrose under the -guidance of Alan, the first abbot. The building must probably then have -made some progress to be in a fit state for their occupation. Ermengard -died in 1233 and was buried in the church, and, according to -Spottiswoode, her place of sepulture was before the high altar. She was -a liberal benefactress to the abbey, and Alexander, her son, took a -continued interest in its affairs after her death, and was a frequent -visitor at Balmerino. During the time of Ralph, the second abbot -(1236-1251), the abbey received the first confirmation of its privileges -and possessions from Pope Innocent IV. It is undated, but the Rev. Dr. -Campbell, in his account of the abbey, assigns its date to between 1242 -and 1246. About the last decade of the thirteenth century, Hugo of Nydie -grants the use of his quarry of Nydie to the abbey, and also a toft, -with the privilege of grazing on the common pasture of Nydie. Dr. -Campbell conjectures that as the journey between the quarry and -Balmerino was too long to be performed both ways on the same day, the -toft would form the lodging for the men, and the pasturage for the -draught animals. In this connection William of Burglyn grants “that old -road through his land of Burthlyn, by which the monks were wont to go -with their carts and other carriages to the quarry of Nidyn;” and -further, “if it shall happen that the carts and waggons of the monks -shall at any time halt at the ford of Burglyn on account of any -hindrance in crossing, he grants them permission in such a case to -unyoke and feed their beasts there, and, if necessary, to stay over the -night.”[177] - -Beyond the above facts, there is no information whatever preserved that -has any bearing on the history of the erection of the abbey buildings. -No contracts are referred to, nor in its records is the name of any -particular abbot associated with the building of any part of the abbey. -The next recorded event in connection with the structure is its -destruction, or partial destruction, during Somerset’s invasion in 1547, -when Admiral Thomas Wyndham, on the night of the 25th December, assailed -the monastery, and in the words of his own report,[178] “he bornt the -abbey with all thyngs that wer in it.” This damage was, doubtless, to a -certain extent repaired; but a more serious encounter was approaching. -In 1559 Balmerino suffered the usual fate of similar establishments. The -Earl of Argyle and the Prior of St. Andrews, having destroyed the -churches of St. Andrews, “convened a great company of countrymen and -passed to the abbeys of Lindores and Balmerino, the Parish Kirks within -Fife, and did the like.”[179] Bishop Leslie ascribes the demolition of -the abbey to “certain most worthless men, of the common people.” - -As usually happened in connection with all the other abbeys at this -period, a nobleman or Court favourite was appointed commendator, who -drew two-thirds of the revenue, the remainder being reserved for the -reformed minister and the Crown. John Hay, descended from the family of -Naughton (a large property in the neighbourhood), was appointed -commendator in 1561. The office was resigned into the king’s hands in -1605, whereupon the abbacy was converted into a temporal lordship, in -favour of Sir James Elphinstone, with the title of Lord Balmerino. - -The abbey buildings (Fig. 898) are in a very ruinous state, only the -chapter house with the erections adjoining it being at all well -preserved. The north wall of the nave with the west wall of the north -transept remain throughout their whole length for about 5 feet above the -ground. In the month of March 1896, the Rev. Dr. Campbell was allowed by -the proprietor to make some excavations, and as the result of a few -days’ work sufficient remains were disclosed to enable a fairly -accurate plan of the church to be made. And if the work of excavation -were carried further, the rubbish removed, and most of the trees cut -down which at present crowd the site, there is no doubt but that a much -more complete plan of the church and abbey would be disclosed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 898.--Balmerino Abbey. Plan.] - -The church is situated, as at the mother church of Melrose, on the south -side of the cloister. It consisted of a nave with a south aisle (there -being no north aisle), transepts with the usual eastern aisle, and a -short presbytery without aisles. The internal dimensions of the church -were as follows:--Total length from east to west about 206 feet, width -of nave about 45 feet, length of transepts and crossing about 98 feet, -width of transept (including the east aisle) about 46 feet, and width of -presbytery about 25 feet. - -[Illustration: FIG. 899.--Balmerino Abbey. Plan of Piers and Responds.] - -Three of the vaulting shafts of the nave exist against the north wall -(their section is shown in Fig. 899); but they are so situated as to -give an unequal division to the bays. Until the ivy is stripped from the -walls, and the accumulated debris of centuries is removed from the -floor, nothing more definite can be ascertained regarding them; but -assuming that two of the responds are in their proper places at a -distance of 20 feet apart--of which there seems to be no doubt--this -would give a nave of six bays. In the line of the nave piers various -foundations have been laid bare, as shown on Plan. Beginning at the west -end a foundation projects inwards 5 feet; next it there is a cross wall -about 10 feet in length; then further to the east, two foundations as if -for piers, and next them the great south-east pier of the crossing, one -side of which is quite entire and is shown in Fig. 899. It measures -along the diagonal face 6 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 7 inches across. -There were three such piers, the fourth (see Fig. 899) being made up -with the responds at the junction of the nave and transept walls at the -north-west corner of the crossing. Each transept probably contained two -bays. The respond against the north transept wall still exists. - -[Illustration: FIG. 900.--Balmerino Abbey. Plan of West Doorway.] - -The west doorway (Fig. 900) was evidently one of considerable -importance. It was a double doorway, 8 feet 8 inches wide, the central -pillar being about 14 inches square; only the merest fragment of the -base of the doorway has been unearthed. The ingoing probably extended -with a wide splay outwards, decorated with shafts, the base of one of -these being in situ. The south-west corner of the church is one of the -best preserved fragments. It consists of a deeply splayed base of -beautiful masonry, with an angle buttress, measuring 7 feet on each -face, with a projection of nearly 5 feet. This buttress probably -contained a wheel stair for access to the roof. The north-west corner -has not been cleared of rubbish. At the south-east corners of the -transept and of the presbytery there are foundations (as shown on Plan), -of which at present nothing definite can be made. The details of the -church indicate a building in the first pointed style of the thirteenth -century. - -Entering from the south transept is the sacristy, a chamber 32 feet 4 -inches long by 23 feet wide, covered with a round barrel vault. All the -buildings to the north of the church appear to have been to a greater or -less extent altered and adapted by the commendators, in order to form a -mansion house, so that they do not now quite represent their original -condition. - -[Illustration: FIG. 901.--Balmerino Abbey. Plan of Charter House.] - -To the north of the sacristy is the chapter house, with a doorway -between them, which is not original. This has been a very fine -apartment, measuring about 56 feet long by about 27 feet 3 inches wide. -It is divided into two compartments, the eastern compartment being the -chapter house proper, and the western the vestibule (see Fig. 901). The -eastern half is probably of a slightly later date than the western half. -It was vaulted, like the western half, with groined vaulting, but at a -much higher level and with arches of a much greater span, having had one -central pillar instead of the two in the older part. The central pillar -is entirely gone; and of the high vaulting only the wall ribs, with the -corbels from which the ribs sprang, remain (see Fig. 902). From the -indications of the ribs which remain, the vaulting has been restored in -dotted lines. It is quite obvious from Fig. 902 that this vaulting was -removed to admit of an upper room at the lower level of the western -vault. - -[Illustration: FIG. 902.--Balmerino Abbey. Chapter House, from -South-East.] - -The western division or vestibule (Fig. 903) has two octagonal centre -pillars, with no wall responds in a line with them, the vaulting at the -wall springing from rounded corbels; eastwards, there are two larger -octagonal pillars with responds. The height of the pillars is about 7 -feet 10 inches, and to the apex of the vaulting the height is about 14 -feet 9 inches. - -The western wall of the chapter house is gone, and only some portions of -a later wall remain. Owing to this the western compartments of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 903.--Balmerino Abbey. Chapter House, from -North-West.] - -vaulting have fallen, all except the part shown by strong lines at the -south side of this compartment, which merely holds together by the -tenacity of the mortar. Unless means are shortly taken to support this -fragment, it will soon give way and come to the ground. There was a -continuous seat round the entire chapter house. The recesses at the east -end on the north side are modern (Fig. 904). - -The east wall of the chapter house (Fig. 905) still remains; it contains -two windows, having square heads, built with radiating stones, and -probably had mullions with tracery. The southmost of these windows was, -in the later occupation, converted into a doorway, with fan lights over -(see Fig. 905). - -During this period the chapter house formed a part of the residence, the -eastern part being a hall, with some kind of screen or division between -the pillars and the responds, and having a door through the northern -archway, of which door the ends of the stone lintel still remain on each -side. A large fireplace was constructed at the centre arch, and the -chimney flue still remains, as shown on the Plan of the vaulting (see -Fig. 901), with the ribs crossing the flue. About this time the wheel -staircase, seen projecting into the cloister, was probably built. The -chapter house finishes on the top with a row of corbels similar to what -is seen on the pele towers; but the whole is so covered with ivy and -abundant vegetation on the roof that further elucidation of this part of -the building is impossible. - -The details of the chapter house, as seen in the vaulting and the carved -work of the caps of the piers and corbels (Fig. 906), belong, probably, -to the first half of the fifteenth century. Adjoining the chapter house -is a vaulted apartment about 28 feet 9 inches long by 11 feet 6 inches -wide, and provided with a seat on either side. It is entered from the -east by a pointed doorway, and is unlighted by any windows. It was -probably the slype. To the north of this is the last building of the -eastern range, which is believed to be the penitentiary. It contains -three cells; the eastmost one, which enters from a hatchway in the -vaulted roof, measures about 8 feet by 6 feet, and is lofty. It was -lighted with a small window, and probably contained a garde-robe. The -adjoining cell shown on the Ground Plan is divided into two--a lower and -an upper cell, the latter entering from a hatchway in the roof, and the -former being some steps down from the ground level. The lower cell is -provided with a stone seat on each side, and so, perhaps, are the -others; but they are so encumbered with rubbish that their details -cannot be made out. - -Of the other buildings surrounding the cloister nothing remains except -the indications of the inner wall of the west wing, shown by dotted -lines on Plan, which gives a breadth to the garth, from east to west, of -about 104 feet. - -[Illustration: FIG. 904.--Balmerino Abbey. Chapter House, from -South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 905.--Balmerino Abbey. South-East Angle of Chapter -House.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 906.--Balmerino Abbey. Details of Piers of Chapter -House.] - -It is quite possible that the present farmhouse is on the site, if it -did not form a part, of the north-west corner of the cloister. To the -north of this house there still remains a portion of the old granary, -now part of the modern farm-steading. It contains two doorways, one with -a splayed and pointed arch, and the other much wider, having a rounded -top. The west gable, as seen above a modern roof, is constructed as a -dovecot with nests, similar to what is found at Cambuskenneth. On the -skew putt at the north side of the gable there is a coat of arms (Fig. -907), two bars embattled. There is no known coat quite similar to this. -A richly moulded and embattled finial terminates this gable, but it is -broken and mutilated. Another coat of arms, built into the modern walls -of the farm-steading, and shown by Fig. 908, is also unknown, as -likewise are the initials. - -[Illustration: FIG. 907.--Balmerino Abbey. Arms on Skew Putt of Barn.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 908.--Balmerino Abbey. Dormer in Farm Building.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 909.--Balmerino Abbey. Figure of Ecclesiastic.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 910.--Balmerino Abbey. Figure in Armour.] - -To the east of the chapter house, at a distance of about 90 feet, are -the ruins of what is called on the Plan the abbot’s house. What remains -consists of a vaulted cellar, measuring on the inside about 18 feet 2 -inches by 15 feet 7 inches, and separated by a thick wall from a similar -apartment on the north, which only in part survives. How far this -structure extended it is impossible to say. It is constructed of good -masonry, the doorway between the apartments being finely wrought; and it -evidently was an important building. - -Adjoining this house, two sculptured figures--one of an ecclesiastic and -the other in mail armour (Figs. 909 and 910)[180]--are stuck into the -ground. The first has probably been a recumbent figure on a tomb, and -the other is an isolated upright figure, the back being as carefully -wrought as the front. - -A laudable effort has been made to preserve the ruins by enclosing them -with a lofty fence; but much might yet be done by way of preservation -and disclosure by excavation. - - -CHAPEL, ROTHESAY CASTLE, BUTESHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 911.--Chapel, Rothesay Castle. Plan.] - -In the description of Rothesay Castle[181] the plan of the ground floor -of the chapel is shown standing within the courtyard, and at right -angles to the east wall of enceinte. The chapel itself, however, was on -the upper floor of this building, which is two stories in height. The -chapel (Fig. 911) - -[Illustration: FIG. 912.--Chapel, Rothesay Castle. View from -North-West.] - -is 30 feet in length by 20 feet in width internally. The west wall is -now much broken down, so that in the view from the north-west (Fig. 912) -there is seen the exterior of the north side and the interior of the -south side. The chapel has been lighted by two windows in the north and -two windows in the south wall, all towards the east end. About the -middle of the structure there is a small window in each of the north and -south walls, and further westwards the entrance doorway occurs in the -south wall. The doorway is still pretty complete, and has a round arch -and splayed jambs. Being at the height of one story from the ground, it -must have been approached by an outside staircase, probably somewhat in -the manner shown by dotted lines on Plan. - -[Illustration: FIG. 913.--Chapel, Rothesay Castle. Windows in North -Wall.] - -There is no window in the east wall, as a window in that position would -have been blocked by the staircase leading to the battlements on the -outer wall of the fortress. The eastern part of the church, however, is -amply lighted by the two large windows on each side. These windows (Fig. -913) are pointed, and each had a central mullion and simple branching -tracery. The mouldings consist of simple splays. There is a piscina in -the south wall of the chancel to the east of the eastern window. - -The small windows in the side walls are pointed, and may have lit altars -at the rood screen. The western portion of the chapel had probably a -window in the west wall. - -The whole structure is simple, but massive. There are few features by -which the date may be fixed, but it seems most probable that it was -erected towards the end of the fourteenth century, when the castle was -enlarged and frequently occupied by Kings Robert II. and III. - - -ST. BRIDGET’S OR ST. BRIDE’S CHURCH, DOUGLAS, LANARKSHIRE. - -The town of Douglas, in the parish of the same name, stands in the Upper -Ward of Lanarkshire, about 3½ miles south from Douglas Station, on the -Lesmahagow branch of the Caledonian Railway. The town and castle are -closely connected with the great Douglas family, several members of -which are buried in the church, and have sumptuous monuments erected -therein to their memory. - -The church of Douglas existed in the twelfth century, but the present -structure is of considerably later date. Douglas Church belonged to -Kelso Abbey. In the end of the fourteenth century it was made a prebend -of Glasgow Cathedral. The ancient church here, in 1307, played an -important part in one of the bold feats of the Good Sir James Douglas in -the time of Bruce. The English garrison of Douglas Castle, being -assembled in the church, were attacked by Sir James, and were all -killed. - -The church, of which some fragments are still preserved, was doubtless -destroyed during the troublous times of the War of Independence. The -present structure, of which little but the choir remains, appears to -have been built about the end of the fourteenth century. Its -architecture is very simple, all the rybats and mullions having plain -splays instead of mouldings. - -The choir (Fig. 914) measures, internally, 40 feet in length by 17 feet -4 inches in width, and has no aisles. There has at one time been a nave, -the large arch to which, though built up, is visible in the wall between -the nave and choir. - -The central part of the nave has entirely disappeared, and its space -now forms part of the churchyard. There remains, however, what has -apparently been the south aisle of the nave. It has been connected with -the central aisle by two arches, the central pillar and west respond of -which still survive, though built up with modern masonry. This aisle is -about 38 feet in length by 20 feet in width over the walls. In the -north-east angle of the aisle a square turret, about 10 feet over the -walls, has been erected. - -The choir contains a large three-light window in the east end (Fig. -915), having two mullions, which form three smaller pointed arches -within the large arch-head. In the south side there are three similar -windows, but smaller, the central one having the sill kept very high, -and being thus of a stunted appearance. - -[Illustration: FIG. 914.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Plan.] - -The monument in the south side, which contains the effigies of James, -seventh Earl of Douglas, and his wife, has required a break to be formed -in the wall on the exterior, so as to allow breadth for the two figures -under the canopy. - -The entrance to the choir is by a modernised doorway in the north wall, -close to the west end. On entering one is struck by the fine appearance -of the large monuments (Fig. 916), especially those on the left or north -side. These monuments, as well as the whole building, have evidently -been considerably repaired within recent years. Until about fifteen -years ago the church was in a miserable condition, the windows being -built up, so that the monuments could only be seen by lamp light. The -building stood open, and the school children (the schoolhouse being - -[Illustration: FIG. 915.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. View from -South-East.] - -near) used it as a place to play in. It is, therefore, no wonder that -the fine monuments and effigies suffered damage. The whole have been - -[Illustration: FIG. 916.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Interior -of Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 917.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -of the Good Sir James Douglas.] - -repaired by Lord Home, and are now in excellent condition, and a new -roof has been placed on the building. - -The oldest monument is, doubtless, that in the north wall (Fig. 917), -near the doorway. It is traditionally ascribed to the Good Sir James, -the staunch adherent and companion in arms of Bruce. He died in Spain, -in 1331, when on his way to the Holy Land with the heart of King Robert. -The tomb contains a broken effigy, having a shield on the left side, and -with hands drawing his sword, but the right arm is broken off. The legs -have been crossed, but the upper limb is broken off by the knee. The -head rests on a cushion and the feet against a mutilated animal, -probably a lion. This monument is illustrated by Blore in his -_Monumental Remains_, and the effigy is pronounced by him to be of a -date anterior to the time of Sir James. The canopy is of a much later -period, probably fifteenth century.[182] It comprises a large pointed -arch with fine detached and freely cut cusping, surmounted by a -crocketed label moulding of ogee form, terminating in a large finial, -which reaches to the top of the wall of the church. A buttress on each -side, set diagonally, encloses the monument. Each buttress has a tall -crocketed pinnacle and foliaged finial. The shield in the spandril of -the canopy contains the heart, an addition to the Douglas Arms, made in -consequence of Sir James’s mission to the Holy Land with Bruce’s heart. - -To the east of the above monument in the north wall is that of -Archibald, fifth Earl of Douglas (Fig. 918), who died in 1438. He was -the son of Archibald, fourth Earl, who distinguished himself in the -service of Charles VII. of France, and received therefor the Duchy of -Touraine, in 1423. This Earl was killed, along with most of his Scottish -followers, at the battle of Verneuil, 1424. Archibald, the fifth Earl, -after serving for some time in France, returned home and died of fever -in 1438. - -The effigy which lies within the monument is habited in robes of state, -and wears a ducal coronet. In the left hand was probably a baton of -office, and the right hand holds together the cord which fastens the -mantle. The feet rest on a lion couchant. Round the waist is a broad -ornamental belt. Round the margin of the slab was formerly an -inscription, now nearly obliterated, which Godscroft gives as follows:-- - -HIC · JACET · ARCHIBALDUS · DE · DOUGLAS · DUX · TOURENIAE · COMES DE · -DOUGLAS · ET · LONGUEVILLE · DOMINUS · GALLOVIDIAE · WIGTONIAE · ET -ANNANDIAE · LOCUM · TENENS · REGIS · SCOTIE · OBIIT · XXVIº · DIE · -MENSIS IUNII · ANNO · DOMINI · MILLESIMO · QUARINGENTESIMO · TRICESIMO · -OCTAVO.[183] - -The effigy rests on a tomb, the front of which is divided into six -panels, each containing a small figure, probably representing the family -of the deceased. The figures stand on small pedestals, and are -surmounted with ornamental canopies. Over the tomb is a somewhat flat -arch of ogee form, - -[Illustration: FIG. 918.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -of Archibald, Fifth Earl of Douglas.] - -with enriched mouldings, having a crocketed hood terminating in an -enriched finial. At either side are two small buttresses, each -containing - -[Illustration: FIG. 919.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -of James, Seventh Earl of Douglas.] - -a small statue and covered with a crocketed pinnacle. A parapet, pierced -with quatrefoils, and which has been considerably renewed, runs along -the top. On the wall at the back of the arched recess a figure, -kneeling at an altar, is carved. A small shield over the altar bears -the Douglas arms, and the scroll carried an inscription, now -obliterated. - -In Blore’s time this monument was sadly destroyed, and the small figures -were scattered over the floor, but they have now been replaced and the -monument restored. - -The base of the monument bears an ornament of sculptured foliage, very -closely resembling that on the two eastern pillars of St. Giles’, -Edinburgh, the work on both being probably of about the same period, -about the middle of the fifteenth century. - -[Illustration: FIG. 920.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Effigies -of James, Seventh Earl of Douglas, and Beatrice de Sinclair.] - -In the south wall of the choir there is a third monument (Fig. 919), -which contains recumbent figures of James, seventh Earl of Douglas, and -Beatrice de Sinclair, his wife (Fig. 920). The former is in armour, but -the statue is much broken. The latter wears a long robe. The heads rest -on cushions, and the hands are clasped in the attitude of prayer. In the -face of the tomb are ten niches containing upright figures of the sons -and daughters of the Earl and Countess, and one niche containing an -angel, who supports a shield blazoned with the Douglas and Sinclair -arms. Above the figures was the following inscription:--“Hic jacet -magnus et potens princeps Dominus Jacobus de Douglas Dux Toureniae et -Comes de Douglas Dominus Annandiae Gallovidiae Liddaliae Jedburg -Forestiae et Dominus de Balveniae Magnus Wardanus Regni Scotiae versus -Angliam, &c., qui obiit 24 die mensis Martii anno domini 1443.”[184] - -[Illustration: FIG. 921.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Crocket -and Finial of Monument.] - -This Earl was the brother of the forementioned Archibald, sixth Earl, to -whom he succeeded after the murder, in Edinburgh Castle, of Archibald’s -two sons. He was called “Le Gros” on account of his corpulence, and -seems to have been a “prudent and peaceable man.” - -The inscription for his lady was as follows:--“Hic jacit Domina Beatrix -de Sinclair filia domini Henrici Comitis Arcadum Domini de Sinclair, &c. -Comitessa de Douglas et Aveniae Domina Gallovidiae.” - -On the east side of these inscriptions was a stone, on which were -recorded the names and titles of the sons and daughters. - -“This inscription enables us to fix the date of the erection of the -monument--viz., between 1448, when Archibald was made Earl of Moray, and -1451, when James, the eldest son, was killed.”[185] - -[Illustration: FIG. 922.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -in South-West Angle of Choir.] - -As already mentioned, the outer wall has been extended so as to give -width for the tomb. The arch of the canopy is flat and low, so that the -space is dark at the back. The label is enriched with crockets, which -run up into a foliaged finial of late character (Fig. 921). Over this a -shield, bearing the Douglas Arms, surmounted by a helmet with a peacock -for crest, and covered with a small enriched string course, is inserted -in the wall. In a niche in the wall on either side of the shield there -have been “wild men” as supporters, but one of these has been removed. - -This monument is evidently of a later date than those on the north side, -and is inferior in design and execution, as might be expected from its -date. - -To the west of the above monument, and in the extreme south-west angle -of the church, there lies an effigy (Fig. 922) of beautiful workmanship -and of an early date. It is apparently a female figure, the arms and -head of which are damaged. The feet rest upon a bunch of foliage of -first pointed design, greatly worn away. Such a footing for the effigy -of a monument is rare in Scotland. - -In the east wall two circular headed recesses occur under the large -window, which may have been credence niches. - -[Illustration: FIG. 923.--St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Norman -Fragments.] - -In the south wall near the east end there is a double piscina in a -recess, having a trefoiled head. The basins are round plain sinkings. - -The nave appears to have been a structure of the same date as the choir. -The pillar between it and the south aisle seems to be of the fifteenth -century. At the east end of the south aisle there is a piscina in the -south wall, set in a trefoil headed recess, similar to that in the -choir. - -The turret in the north-east angle of the nave aisle is carried to a -considerable height. It is octagonal in the upper stories; and the top -story, which forms the belfry, is pierced with eight small pointed -windows (see Fig. 915), the mouldings round which form square frames -above the arch-heads. The turret is finished with an octagonal spire of -stone, and at the base of each angle of the spire there is a small stone -pinnacle, now much worn away. - -There still survive some fragments of carved work, which bear evidence -of the former existence of an ancient church in Douglas. These fragments -are portions of Norman capitals, which are piled up, as shown in the -sketch, (Fig. 923), in the recess of the south aisle adjoining the -turret. One cap shows a face with a fierce moustache, and others are -good specimens of characteristic Norman design. - - -ST. BRIDE’S COLLEGIATE CHURCH, BOTHWELL, LANARKSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 924.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Plan.] - -This very interesting church was founded by Archibald the Grim, Earl of -Douglas, in 1398. He was proprietor of the great Castle of Bothwell in -the vicinity, and he dedicated the church to St. Bride, his patron -saint. The establishment was to consist of a provost and eight - -[Illustration: FIG. 925.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. View from -South-East.] - -prebendaries. In order to provide suitable accommodation, he added a -choir to the existing parish church, and granted to the establishment -sufficient resources. In this church the unfortunate Duke of Rothesay -was married to the Earl’s daughter Marjory, in the year 1400. The old -College Church is now attached to a new and larger modern parish church -which adjoins it on the west, but the College Church is not now used for -service. The structure is a simple oblong chamber (Fig. 924), 55 feet in -length by 22 feet in width internally, with a sacristy on the north side -14 feet long by 10 feet wide. The church, externally divided by -buttresses, has four bays (Fig. 925), with a series of pointed windows -in the south wall and three windows in the north wall. The east end is -square, and has one large pointed window with drop arch. The entrance -doorway (Fig. 926) is in the south wall in the second bay from the west -end, under a window. The arch of the doorway is remarkable from being -elliptic in form. The mouldings of the arch are bold, but they are -destroyed on the jambs. A label mitring into a string course at top runs -round the arch. The windows are deeply splayed both inside and out, but -the tracery with which they were doubtless filled is now wanting. The -arch of the east window springs - -[Illustration: FIG. 926.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Entrance -Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 927.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Interior of -Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 928.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Doorway to -Sacristy.] - -from a point considerably below the junction with the jambs, which gives -it a broken appearance. An inner moulding, finished with well wrought -bases, runs round the exterior of the windows. The roof of this church, -like that of so many erected at a somewhat later period, is covered with -overlapping stone slabs, which rest on a pointed barrel vault (Fig. -927), for the purpose of supporting it. This is the earliest example we -have met with of this form of vault, which became very common in the -churches of the following period. That at Lincluden, already referred -to, is similar, but had a groined vault beneath it. The vault is -ornamented with moulded ribs at intervals, springing from small moulded -corbels. There is also a ridge rib, and bosses occur at the junction -with the curved side ribs. The buttresses are simple in outline, and -have a deep series of set offs at top, and those next the doorway have -small cusped niches in the face of each. The stone work of the roof is -very carefully executed, every stone being curved so as to throw the -water away from the joints. The cornice is rather more prominent than -usual. - -[Illustration: FIG. 929.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Sedilia.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 930.--St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Tombstone, with -Shield and Douglas Arms.] - -The entrance to the sacristy is by an unusually handsome doorway (Fig. -928), having two orders of shafts and mouldings. The carving of the caps -has been very fine, but is sadly damaged. In the sacristy there are a -piscina and a locker, and in the south wall of the choir the remains of -a triple beautifully carved sedilia (Fig. 929) and a piscina. The -sacristy is roofed with overlapping stone flags, supported on a vault. - -Some elaborate monuments have been erected in the church (see Fig. 927) -in memory of the two Archibald Douglases, Earls of Forfar, one of whom -was mortally wounded at Sheriffmuir (1715). - -Some ancient carved stones are also preserved at the east end, one of -them being a tombstone containing a shield, with the original three -stars of the Douglas arms (Fig. 930). - - -ST. DUTHUS’ CHURCH, TAIN, ROSS-SHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 931.--Old St. Duthus’ Church. Plan.] - -The ancient town of Tain claims to have received its first privileges -from Malcolm Canmore in the eleventh century. It was also the site of an -early church, and St. Duthus, the patron saint of the town, is reputed -to have been the Bishop of Ross in the eleventh century. The existing -town stands at a point near the entrance to Dornoch Frith, on an ancient -sea margin, which rises above a great expanse of sandy links stretching -eastwards towards the sea. It possesses no less than three ancient -churches, all said to have been dedicated to St. Duthus. This saint -probably lived about the year 1000, and his remains are said to have -been translated to his native town of Tain in 1253.[186] The most -ancient church (Fig. 931) stands on a knoll which rises above the -general level of the links. It is now surrounded by a well kept modern -cemetery, and is at some distance from the town, but is believed to have -stood in the midst of the houses of the older Tain, which occupied the -low ground near the sea. This ancient fane is a simple parallelogram, 46 -feet long by 16 feet 6 inches wide internally. Three of its walls (Fig. -932), which are all built with the granite boulders of the district, and -the east and west gables are still almost entire, but the south wall is -reduced to a state of ruin. The north, east, and west walls, which are -much exposed to the storms from the sea, are without any openings, -except a small pointed window in the west gable. The doorway and windows -seem to have been in the south wall, which may account for its ruinous -condition. The one small window remaining in that wall, and the pointed -window in the west gable, indicate a date not earlier than the -thirteenth century. Besides these there are no features to give a clue -to the date of the structure; but the period they point to agrees with -the time when the body of St. Duthus is believed to have been brought -here for burial. - -The shrine of St. Duthus was regarded as specially sacred, and possessed -the right of sanctuary. To it the wife and daughter of King Robert I. -betook themselves when compelled to flee from Kildrummy Castle, in -Aberdeenshire. But the sacred nature of the sanctuary did not avail the -royal fugitives, and they were delivered up to Edward by the Earl of -Ross. - -[Illustration: FIG. 932.--Old St. Duthus’ Church. View from South-West.] - -It is believed that this church was destroyed by fire in 1429; M‘Neill -of Creich, having pursued his enemies thither, took that means of -evading the right of sanctuary. He did not seize his enemies within the -sacred ground, but set fire to the church in which they had taken -refuge. - -The second church in point of antiquity is a small quadrangular -structure (Fig. 933) which stands near the principal church, and to the -south-east of it, on the higher ground adjacent to the modern town. It -is 32 feet long by 13 feet wide within the walls, which are now reduced -to about 6 to 7 feet in height all round. The north wall appears to have -been rebuilt, for Mr. Neale describes it in his _Ecclesiological -Notes_[187] as being ruinous, but having one lancet. The east end -contains a triplet enclosed in one arch, and the south side has a door -and a two-light window under one arch. These features point to the date -of this chapel as being early, but it is scarcely possible to fix a -definite time. It is, however, apparently earlier than 1429, the date of -the burning of St. Duthus’ Church on the links, and it is thought that -this may have been the original parish church. The adjoining larger -church is recorded as having been a rebuilding of a previous church, and -it seems most probable that the building now under consideration was the -earlier church. - -As regards the third church (see Fig. 933), which was undoubtedly -dedicated to St. Duthus, chronicles declare it to have been built by -William, Earl of Ross, who died in 1371. In 1487 James III. procured -from the Bishop of Ross and the Pope sanction for converting it into a -collegiate establishment for a provost, five canons, two deacons, a -sacrist, with an assistant clerk, and three singing boys. This -institution was liberally endowed out of the crown lands, and, after the -death of James III., an annual sum was paid out of the royal -treasury.[188] - -[Illustration: FIG. 933.--St. Duthus’ Church. Plan.] - -In the _Treasurer’s Accounts_ for 1504 there are entries which seem to -point to all three churches as being then still in existence. These -entries show that on 23rd October of that year the king made an offering -of 14s. “in Sanct Duchois Chapell quhair he was borne” (no doubt meaning -the place where the saint was born, or the old church on the links); -also, “in Sanct Duchois Chapell in the Kirk-yard of Tayne” (referring, -probably, to the second, or original, parish church); and also, “in -Sanct Duchoils Kirk” (which may be the College Kirk as distinguished -from the Parish Church). - -The Collegiate Church stands in a pleasant situation overlooking the -sea, on the raised beach to the north of the town, and is surrounded by -a burying-ground. - -St. Duthus’ was an ancient and favourite place of pilgrimage, and the -old church having been consumed, this new one would, after its erection, -be doubtless the celebrated shrine to which James IV. and V. made their -pilgrimages. - -The former king is believed to have gone there every season for at least -twenty years, as part of the penance he performed in connection with his -father’s death. He visited St. Duthus’ in 1513, before his last fatal -expedition, which closed with the Battle of Flodden. In 1527 James V. -made the pilgrimage of St. Duthus’ barefoot, a memento of which event is -preserved in the name of the “King’s Causeway,” by which a road near the -town is known. - -The Collegiate Church (Fig. 933) is 70 feet long by 22 feet 6 inches -wide internally. It contains four bays, distinguished externally by -buttresses of good form (Fig. 934). Each bay contains one window, those -of the south or sheltered side being large and filled with tracery; -while those in the north wall, which is exposed to the sea, are small -plain lancets, with hood moulding. The windows in the east and west -walls are large and filled with tracery, having five and four lights -respectively, divided by mullions. The tracery of the east window, which -has been renewed, is of geometric form, while that of the west window -consists of simple intersecting mullions. The tracery of the south side -windows is of similar design. The west gable contains two niches, one on -each side of the arch of the window. The statue of a bishop (possibly -St. Duthus) still exists in the north niche. There is a doorway in the -westmost bay on each side. They are similar and of good design. A small -benitier projects from the wall on the outside close to the north door. -The south door has had a large porch, the mark of the water table being -still visible. - -The interior contains a triple sedilia and a piscina in the south wall -of good pointed and trefoiled pattern, and there is a small ambry in the -north wall. - -In Neal’s _Ecclesiological Notes_ the church is termed an example of -middle pointed architecture, although its date, as generally happens in -the North, is considerably later than any work of that period in -England. - -From the Reformation till 1815 this edifice was used as the parish -church. A new church being then erected, the old one was abandoned and -suffered neglect. When Mr. Neal visited it in 1848, he found it in the -following condition[189]:--“It has been fitted up as a place of -Presbyterian worship; galleries, gaudily painted, run round it; pews of -every size and shape and colour pollute it; but it is now deserted. The -smell of decaying wood, the exhalations from the vaults, the dampness, -the rottenness, the horrible filth, the green mould, the decaying baize, -the deserted appearance of the whole render this a shocking place.” - -This disgraceful condition of the church attracted public attention, - -[Illustration: FIG. 934.--St. Duthus’ Church. View from South-West.] - -and, by the exertions of the late Provost M‘Leod and other gentlemen in -the district, its cleansing and restoration were undertaken and -completed in 1877, and the building is now set apart for monumental and -memorial purposes. The old stonework has been preserved and slightly -restored where necessary, and the roof has been renewed. The windows are -filled with memorial stained glass, and the whole is kept in excellent -order. - -A pulpit is said to have been presented to Tain by the Regent Murray, as -a mark of his appreciation of the zeal of the town in the cause of the -Reformation. Mr. Taylor informs us[190] that this valuable relic was -“suffered to be broken, and its ornamentation carried away piecemeal by -wanton hands;” but it has now been restored, so far as the fragments -again brought together have enabled this to be done, and forms an -ornamental feature in the restored church. - - -FEARN ABBEY, ROSS-SHIRE. - -This abbey is one of the monastic establishments founded in the far -North during the reign of Alexander II. It was originally settled, in -1221, by Farquhard, Earl of Ross, at Edderton, on the Dornoch Frith, and -its first abbot was brought from the priory of Whithorn, in Wigtonshire. -The occupants were therefore of the Premonstratensian Order of Canons -Regular, being the order of the parent house. - -The situation originally chosen was found to be too near the turbulent -tribes further north, and, in 1238, leave was granted to Malcolm of Uig, -the second abbot, to transfer the abbey to a new and more peaceful site. -The new locality is about ten miles south-east from the first site, and -had the advantage of being in more fertile soil. Being well within the -domains of the Earl of Ross, the abbey received his protection, and was -also richly endowed by the successive earls. - -The connection with Whithorn was kept up, and many of the abbots came -from the parent house. In 1321, Mark, a canon of Whithorn, and son of -Sir Mark Ros, was presented to the abbacy by the Prior of Whithorn, and -not chosen by the monks. He is said to have rebuilt the abbey about -1338, and the rebuilding was completed under the rule of Abbot Donald, -in 1372. - -Abbot Finlay M‘Faed was appointed in 1442, and his rule lasted for -forty-four years. He built the cloister, and procured an organ, -tabernacles, chalices, vestments, and other ornaments from Flanders, -with which he enriched the abbey. He died in 1485, and was interred in -St. Michael’s aisle at Fearn, in which his monument was erected, and -where it still survives. - -In the beginning of the sixteenth century the commendatorship of the -abbey was held by a mere boy, afterwards destined to become famous in -Scottish history--Patrick Hamilton, the first martyr for Reformation -principles in this country. He was a natural son of the Earl of Arran, a -M.A. of Paris in 1520, and also of St. Andrews. When twenty-six years of -age he was burned as a heretic at the gate of St. Salvator’s College, in -St. Andrews, in 1528. - -The buildings of Fearn Abbey having fallen into disrepair, Robert -Cairncross, Bishop of Ross (1539-45) was appointed abbot of Fearn, being -recommended by the king to the Pope, on the understanding that the -bishop, who was wealthy, would be able to restore the abbey. Bishop -Cairncross also held several other appointments, being Provost of -Corstorphine, Abbot of Holyrood, and chaplain to James V. He resigned -the abbacy in 1545, and died soon after. Nicholas Ross, provost of the -Collegiate Church of Tain, held the abbacy, possibly as a secular -charge, seeing that, in 1560, he sat in Parliament, and voted for the -abolition of the Roman Catholic religion. - -The last commendator was Walter Ross of Morangy; but he was only -titular, for in 1597 the lands of the abbey were erected into the -temporal Barony of Geanies, and granted by James V. to his favourite, -Sir Patrick Murray. - -Some of the church lands were, as usual, feued off to relatives of the -abbots. Abbot Walter Ross procured a grant in his own favour of Morangy -and the mills thereof, which remained with his family for several -generations. - -The church continued to be used as the parish place of worship, and in -1742, during divine service, the vaulted roof fell, when about fifty -people were killed.[191] - -Of this extensive and richly-furnished abbey there now only remain a -part of the church and the ruins of some structures attached to it. - -The church is a simple oblong chamber (Fig. 935), 96 feet long by 26 -feet wide internally. Part of it is still used as the parish church, but -the eastern end is partitioned off and set apart as the burial-vault of -the family of Ross of Balnagown. After the fall of the roof last -century, the south wall of the church was to a great extent rebuilt, a -new roof put on, and the interior plastered. The eastern portion, with -the exception of the building up of some of the windows and the -reconstruction of the gable, has been left intact. The chapels, or -“aisles,” attached to the church have been erected against the original -walls, as is evident from the remains of windows still visible, which -are built up. - -The features of the church are extremely simple (Fig. 936). The windows -are all tall lancets. In the east gable there are four of these all of -equal height, and the walls have been pierced with similar lights, in -pairs, between all the buttresses round the walls. Some of these remain -in the north wall (see Fig. 936), and in the south wall (which has been -remodelled and partly rebuilt, with large windows inserted) some -portions of the old lancets can yet be traced. - -[Illustration: FIG. 935.--Fearn Abbey. Plan.] - -There is nothing very distinctive of any particular period in the -architecture, but the features correspond fairly well with the date -assigned to the rebuilding of the abbey by the abbots Mark and Donald -during the fourteenth century. The lanceolate form of the windows seems -at first sight to indicate an earlier period, but, on careful -inspection, it will be observed that there is no hood moulding, a -feature almost universally used in first pointed work. Besides, the -lancet form of window was employed in the north even as late as the -sixteenth century, as in the west front of Beauly Priory, built by -Bishop Reid about 1550. An ambry, piscina, and sedilia are still -preserved in the south wall of the chancel. - -The most important of the additions made to the main building is the - -[Illustration: FIG. 936.--Fearn Abbey. View from North-East.] - -south wing or chapel, which was dedicated to St. Michael. This chapel is -said to have been erected by Abbot Finlay M‘Fead, who died in 1485. It -is 32 feet long by 23 feet wide, and has been connected to the church by -an archway 14 feet in width. The walls of the aisle are now reduced to -about 5 feet in height, and contain a doorway in the west side and an -ambry on the east side. In the south wall is the monument to Abbot -Finlay M‘Fead (Fig. 937). The canopy is segmental, and the mouldings are -bold, but the enrichments are much decayed. On the shield over the -centre of the arch the arms of the abbot are still legible--a stag -behind a tree, with three stars in chief, and a crozier above. The -inscription, which is much decayed, is said to be, “Hic jacet Finlaius -M‘Fead abbas de Fern qui obiit anno MCCCCLXXXV.” It will be remembered -that, through the liberality of this abbot, the monastery was much -enriched. His effigy still rests, though much mutilated, in its original -place. - -[Illustration: FIG. 937.--Fearn Abbey. Monument to Abbot Finlay M‘Fead.] - -A small monumental chapel has been erected against the south-east angle -of the church and blocks two of the windows. It is probably, from its -details, of the sixteenth century. There is a pointed doorway in the -east side (see Fig. 936), and a pointed window in each of the east and -west walls. The south wall has contained a monument, but the outer part -of the wall has been broken out, and none of the features of the -monument are preserved. - -Another chapel, doubtless also monumental, has been built against the -north wall (see Fig. 936), where there have been two windows of the -church. The walls of the above chapels seem to be built out from two of -the buttresses of the church. The buttress forming part of the east wall -of the north chapel is still quite distinct. This structure is evidently -of a very late date. The windows have had mullions, which simply -intersect one another in the arched head, without any trace of -foliation. The chief peculiarity of this chapel lies in its roof. This -has been constructed with six ribs, composed of portions of wall carried -on plain pointed arches, on which were laid the overlapping stone flags, -of which the roof was formed. Two of the arches and a small part of the -stone roof still survive (see Fig. 936). - -All traces of the cloister and domestic buildings of the monastery have -been completely swept away. - - -INVERKEITHING CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. - -This ancient town, situated a short way north of Queensferry, contained -many interesting structures, but they have now been almost entirely -removed. The fine Town Cross, however, still survives. - -[Illustration: FIG. 938.--Inverkeithing Church. Plan.] - -The old parish church was burned down in 1825, and afterwards rebuilt, -the only ancient part preserved being the western tower (Fig. 938). This -tower has been partly incorporated with the new church, to which it -forms an entrance porch, and has a new doorway opened in its west wall. -It measures about 22 feet square on Plan, and has buttresses at the -angles reaching as high as the top story (Fig. 939). These have the -angles chamfered, and are finished with plain splays on top. An -octagonal turret at the south-east angle, with conical stone roof, -contains the stair to the upper story. The tower is finished with a -plain parapet on top, supported on simple bold corbels. The structure -above the tower is modern. Although not very high, the tower contains -four stories, the upper one being the belfry. It has large windows, with -one mullion and a transom, and very peculiar tracery in the arched head, -consisting of three perforated circles. The bell bears the date of 1641. - -[Illustration: FIG. 939.--Inverkeithing Church. Tower, from -South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 940.--Inverkeithing Church. Font.] - -In the interior of the church is preserved, and is still used, a very -fine font (Fig. 940), which was found lying in pieces in the ground -under the tower and in the churchyard, but the pieces have now been put -together again. The bowl is hexagonal in outline, 3 feet 2 inches -across, the orifice being 2 feet in diameter. Each face is ornamented -with a large shield, supported by an angel, and on each angle is a large -roll, supported on a head and embattled on top. The lower part consists -of five short filleted shafts, with angular projections between them. -The shafts rest on bold projecting bases, standing on an octagonal -plinth, and have a series of enriched caps (sadly damaged) running round -the font, which support the mouldings under the basin. - -[Illustration: FIG. 941.--Inverkeithing Church. Font.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 942.--Inverkeithing Church. Arms on Font.] - -The arms on the six shields on the faces of the font are as follow (the -arms being, probably, those of the families named, but there is nothing -to show their connection with the font):-- - - 1. Quarterly 1st and 4th, three bay leaves, for Foulis of Colinton; - 2nd and 3rd, saltier and chief, wavy (Fig. 941). Bruce of - Balcaskie. - - 2. A fesse chequé between three crescents (see Fig. 940). Stewart. - - 3. Fesse between three crescents (see Fig. 941). Melville of - Glenbervie. - - 4. Per pale, dexter side, a lion rampant within a double tressure - (see Fig. 940). Lyon of Glamis. On the sinister side, bars wavy, - for Drummond. - - 5. Lion rampant within a double tressure (Fig. 942). Lyon of - Glamis. - - 6. An eagle displayed, surmounted by a bend with three crescents - (see Fig. 942). Ramsay of Dunoun. - - -MONUMENT AT ABERDALGIE, PERTHSHIRE. - -An incised monument (Fig. 943) in the churchyard of Aberdalgie, which is -situated from three to four miles south-west of Perth, commemorates Sir -William Olifurd or Oliphant of Aberdalgie, for ever memorable as the -defender of Stirling Castle against the force of Edward I. in 1304. -Edward conducted the siege in person, and for upwards of three months a -small garrison of men withstood his utmost - -[Illustration: FIG. 943.--Monument at Aberdalgie to Sir W. Olifurd.] - -power, although he brought all his great resources to bear on the -castle. At length, through exhaustion and famine, and the effect of -Edward’s battering engines, the garrison capitulated, and Olifurd was -sent a prisoner to the Tower. He was one of the forty noblemen who, at -Arbroath Abbey in 1320, signed the famous protest against papal -encroachment. Sir William Olifurd is thus entitled to be regarded as one -of the heroes of his country, and his tomb deserves all the care that -can be bestowed on it. It lay over his grave in the church of -Aberdalgie, and when that structure (not a stone of which now remains) -was taken down it lay exposed to the weather for about seven years -afterwards. In 1780 it was protected by a great stone slab being placed -over it as a roof. This slab is only raised about 12 inches above the -monument, so that it is with great difficulty it can be seen. The figure -is really in better preservation than it appears in the drawing, but it -is hardly possible to make out more of the carving. The stone roof above -it is very insecure, and ought to be attended to; and some better -defence is needed, as the action of the weather is causing the monument -to scale off, and all the architectural decoration will very soon -disappear. The slab requires protection from the sun as much as from the -rain. The Sketch shows that the north or left side, which is in the -shade of the stone roof, is better preserved than the south or right -side, the former not being subject to so great an alternation of wet and -dry as the latter. - -The monumental slab is in one stone, and measures 8 feet 2½ inches long -by 4 feet 4 inches wide, and is 6½ inches thick, so that the figure is -about life size. The face is quite destroyed. The canopy over the -figure, which is engraved in the stone, is the best preserved part. This -consists of three cusped arches. Beneath each side arch there is a -shield; the one on the sinister side bears the Oliphant arms, the other -is almost effaced. The side borders have been very richly carved. They -are each divided into four niches, all of which have contained figures, -but only one of them is now entire. The border on the dexter side is -almost all gone. - -All round the stone there has been a raised inscription, of which only a -letter or two at top and bottom now remain, and these will, doubtless, -soon scale away. At the four corners the inscription has been blocked by -the emblems of the evangelists, of which only a part of the emblem of -St. Mark now remains, and this is so fragile that it might be picked -away with the finger. There has also been some kind of geometrical -figure in the centre of the inscription, only the beginning of which -remains on one side. - -This is one of the finest of the few incised monuments which remain in -Scotland. - - -CREICH CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. - -The ruins of this church stand in an old churchyard, overshadowed by -trees, not far from the ancient Castle of Creich,[192] and about six -miles north-west from Cupar. - -[Illustration: FIG. 944.--Creich Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 945.--Creich Church. Interior of Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 946.--Creich Church. Impost of Arches to South -Aisle.] - -The original structure (Fig. 944) has been an oblong single chamber, 60 -feet by 15 feet internally. Apparently there has been no window in the -east wall, and all the other windows appear to have been altered, except -one near the east end of the north wall, which is 6 inches wide, and is -round headed, and splays widely to the interior. All the other windows -are square headed, and have probably been altered. It is not easy to say -whether the doorway is original or not; it is situated in the position -where one would expect it to have been originally. It is round arched, -or, if pointed, only very slightly so. It has a stone lintel in the -interior, raised in the manner shown (Fig. 945) to admit of the leaves -of the door opening. - -[Illustration: FIG. 947.--Creich Church. West Recess.] - -There is a south chapel or aisle entering from the church by a -round-arched opening. The arch has the usual wide double splay resting -on the caps of the responds at each side (see Fig. 946). This aisle has -a massive base, stepped at various places to suit the sloping ground. - -In the north wall there are two semicircular arched recesses, apparently -for monuments. The westmost one (Fig. 947) consists of bead and hollow -mouldings, with rosettes in the hollows. The other recess, near the east -end, is of later workmanship, possibly of the seventeenth century; it -has a projecting keystone containing the Barclay arms. On the floor, -within this recess, but placed there in quite a temporary manner, there -lies the very finely-incised monument shown in Fig. 948; the -inscription, on a bevelled edge, bears that it is to the memory of David -Barclay of Luthrie, who died in 1400, and Helen de Douglas, his wife, -who died - -[Illustration: FIG. 948.--Creich Church. Monument to David Barclay and -his Spouse.] - -in 1421. The stone is about 6 feet 6 inches long by 2 feet 11 inches -wide, and the workmanship of the figures and canopy over, which is -incised in the stone, consists of elaborate tabernacle work, -corresponding with that found on the monuments and brasses of other -countries. The hands and faces shown hatched on the Sketch are rough -sinkings, and are supposed to have been filled in with brass. Over the -figures there are rich architectural canopies, each of slightly -different design. Of two shields, one contains the Barclay arms; the -other is quite worn. - -The church was probably erected about the time of the date on the -monument; and the south aisle was, in all likelihood, erected shortly -before the Reformation. - - -FASLANE CHURCH, ARGYLESHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 949.--Faslane Church. Plan.] - -This ruined structure is situated in a retired spot on the Gareloch, a -branch of the Frith of Clyde, and about one mile from Garelochhead. It -has consisted of a single chamber (Fig. 949), measuring about 37 feet 10 -inches long by 17 feet 9 inches wide inside. The walls are in a very -broken down condition, but, fortunately, the east gable is well -preserved. From the style, the building would at once, except in the -West Highlands, be considered of thirteenth century date, but in that -locality it may have been somewhat later. - -There are two lancet windows in the east end (Fig. 950), a Plan of which -is given to a large scale (Fig. 951), from which, and from the interior -view (Fig. 952), it will be seen that they are widely splayed towards -the interior, and have round arches, slightly flattened on the top. - -[Illustration: FIG. 950.--Faslane Church. East End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 951.--Faslane Church. Plan of Lancet Windows.] - -In the north wall, adjoining the east end, there is the usual ambry, -chocked for a door. Alongside the ambry are the remains of a window -jamb. Probably the entrance was in the south wall, near the west end. - -[Illustration: FIG. 952.--Faslane Church. Interior of East End.] - -In the thirteenth century the castle of Faslane occupied an almost -impregnable summit, at the junction of two glens. “Near to the castle -there was a chapel, dedicated, it is supposed, to St. Michael, with a -burying-ground attached, and, a little beyond it, a mound, where the -priest’s house is reported to have stood.”[193] This church was probably -that now illustrated. The old castle was originally occupied by the -Earls of Lennox or members of their family, but, before 1400, it was -forsaken for Inchmurran, in Loch Lomond. In the fourteenth century Alan -of Faslane married Margaret, the only daughter of Donald, the sixth -earl, and so acquired the honours of the earldom. In the sixteenth -century Faslane was feued to Archibald M‘Aulay of Ardincaple; and about -the middle of the eighteenth century the ruined castle furnished a -shelter to the last representative of that family. - - - - -INDEX. - - -Abailard, 1. - -Abdie, 218. - ----- St. Magridin’s Church, 293. - -Aberdalgie, Monument at, 551. - -Aberdeen, King’s College, 285, 445, 504. - -Abernethy, 86, 209. - -Altyre Church, Morayshire, 290. - -Amiens Cathedral, 65. - -Anderson, Joseph, 209, 210. - ----- R. Rowand, architect, 92. - -Apses and square east ends, 4. - -Arbroath Abbey, 2, 3, 4, 218, 332; - description, 30. - ----- Abbot’s House, 49. - ----- ---- Regality Court-house, 48. - -Arbuthnot, 92. - -Architecture, New development of, 1. - ----- in Scotland, gap in, 331. - -Ardchattan, 146, 245. - -Aroise Abbey, Artois, France, 230. - -Auchindoir Church, Aberdeenshire, description, 281. - - -Balmerino Abbey, description, 505. - -Barrel Vaults, 333. - -Batten, E. Chisholm, 147, 245, 395, 399, 402, 543. - -Bays, Design of, 4. - -Beauly Priory, 2, 146; - description, 245. - -Beverley Minster, 363. - -Billings, R., 122, 389. - -Birnie Church, 121. - -Black’s _Brechin_, 204, 215. - -Border monasteries destroyed, 331. - -Bothwell Church, 333, 531. - -Brechin Cathedral, 3, 86, 223; - description, 203. - -Brechin Maison Dieu, 215. - -Buittle Church, Kirkcudbrightshire, description, 300, 344. - -Burntisland Church, description, 269. - -Bute, Marquis of, 6, 19, 23, 482. - - -Caithness Cathedral, 3. - -Cambuskenneth Abbey, 3, 515; - description, 225. - -Campbell, Rev. Dr., Balmerino, 505. - -Cathedrals, chiefly thirteenth century, 2. - -Chalmers, P. Macgregor, 196, 199, 378, 379, 380, 381, 382, 393, 483. - -Chambers, Dr. William, 443. - -Chapel on “The Isle,” Wigtonshire, description, 297. - -Choir and nave, relative length of, 5. - -Clackmannan Church, 231. - -Cockpen Church, 303. - -Collegiate Churches, 334. - -Collie, J., 163, 186. - -Cowie Church, Kincardineshire, 273. - -Creich Church, 554. - -Crosraguel Abbey, 76, 332, 342, 478; - description, 402. - -Culross Abbey, 2, 3; - description, 231. - ----- Old Parish Church, 243. - - -Decorated Period, 331. - ----- ---- Examples of, rare in Scotland, 332. - -Deer, Abbey of, 274. - ----- Church, 278. - -Donoughmore, County Meath, 210. - -Dore, Abbey of, Hertfordshire, 186, 381. - -Dornoch Cathedral, 3. - -Douglas Church, description, 520. - -Dryburgh Abbey, 4, 332, 345, 346, 349, 365. - -Dunblane Cathedral, 2, 3, 4, 116; - description, 86. - -Dundee Church, 235. - -Dundrennan Abbey, 2, 3, 335, 342. - -Dunfermline Abbey, 3, 92, 485. - -Dunkeld Cathedral, 3. - -Dunstaffnage Castle, Chapel, description, 299. - -Durham Cathedral, 92. - -Dysart Church, 235. - - -Edrom Church, 162. - -Egilsay, Orkney, 209. - -Elgin Cathedral, 2, 3, 4, 146, 147, 152, 154, 196, 322, 331; - description, 121. - ----- St. Giles’, 157. - -Ely, 92. - -Eyre, Archbishop, 195. - - -Fail Abbey, 76. - -Faslane Church, 557. - -Fearn Abbey, Ross-shire, 542. - -First Pointed Style, 1, 2. - ----- ---- introduced from England, 3. - -Fortrose Cathedral, 331; - description, 394. - - -Galloway Cathedral, 3. - ----- A Church in, 378. - ----- William, architect, 76, 80, 81, 297, 482, 486. - -Glasgow Cathedral, 2, 3, 4, 125, 186, 324, 331, 379, 382. - ----- High Kirk, 378. - ----- St. Mungo’s Cathedral, description, 160. - -Glenluce Abbey, 379. - -Gogar Church, Font, 306. - -Grose, Captain, 76, 204, 391, 393. - - -Haddington (St. Mary’s) Parish Church, 445; - description, 491. - -Hexham Church, 6. - -Holyrood Abbey, 2, 3, 4, 330, 332; - description, 53. - -Honeyman, John, architect, 160, 161, 165, 168, 169, 171, 198. - -Hunter Blair, F. C., 402. - - -Inchcolm Abbey, 2, 92; - description, 307. - -Inchmahome Priory, 3; - description, 112. - -Inverkeithing Church, 547. - - -Jedburgh Abbey, 2, 75, 162, 332, 345. - -Jervise, Andrew, 282, 283. - - -Kelso Abbey, 2, 75, 345. - -Kerr, Henry F., 492. - -Kilwinning Abbey, 2, 3, 4, 332; - description, 73. - -Kineddar Church, 121. - -King’s College, Aberdeen, 285, 445, 504. - ----- ---- Cambridge, 393. - -Kinloss Abbey, 121, 232, 402. - -Kinross, J., architect, 6, 23. - -Kirkwall Cathedral, 3, 4. - - -Laing, Alexander, 218, 219. - ----- Dr. David, 429. - -Lamington, 37. - -Lanark, St. Kentigern’s, description, 266. - -Lancet windows, 4. - -Lerida Cathedral, Spain, 37. - -Lincluden College, 120, 333, 379, 381, 535; - description, 383. - -Lincoln Cathedral, 3. - -Lindores Abbey, 4, 294; - description, 217. - -Linlithgow Church, 445, 504; - description, 455. - -Lismore Cathedral, description, 263. - -Luffness Monastery, description, 288. - - -Mackison, William, architect, 227. - -Maison Dieu, Brechin, description, 215. - -Martine’s _Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ_, 19, 23, 24, 27, 29. - -Mavisbank House, 258. - -Melrose Abbey, 331, 332, 342, 438; - Resemblance of details to York, 333; - description, 344. - -Middle Pointed Period, 331. - -Monkton Church, description, 285. - -Morris, James A., 405. - -Muir, T. S., 215, 283, 299, 395, 396, 449, 479. - - -Neal’s _Ecclesiological Notes_, 538, 540. - -New Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, 332; - description, 334. - -Newbattle Abbey, 75, 332, 346; - description, 251. - -Niddisdale, 378. - -Norman Piers, 4. - - -Orkney, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, 3. - -Oudenarde, Belgium, 445. - - -Paisley Abbey, 75, 286, 332, 378, 379, 393, 501. - -Parish Churches, 5. - -Pencaitland Church, description, 304. - -Piers, First Pointed, 4. - -Pinches, Frederick, 378. - -Pluscardine Priory, 2, 3, 4, 349; - description, 146. - -Pointed Style, 2, 3. - ----- Arch in Scotland, 2. - -Prestonkirk Church, 271. - -Prestwick Church, 286. - ----- de Burgo, 286. - ----- Monachorum, 286. - ----- Prestwick, St. Nicholas’, description, 285. - - -Ramsay, John, 253, 255. - -Rattray, St. Mary’s Chapel, 292. - -Redfriars Monastery, Luffness, 288. - -Restorations of churches in fifteenth century, 331. - -Robb’s _Guide to Haddington_, 492, 504. - -Robertson, T. S., architect, 42, 48, 49, 50, 51, 273, 517. - -Romanesque abandoned, 1. - -Rosemarkie, 394, 395. - -Ross, Cathedral of, 331. - -Rosslyn Chapel, 199. - ----- Collegiate Church, 186. - -Rothesay Castle, Chapel, 517. - -Round arch in Scotland, 2. - - -St. Adamnan’s, Burntisland, 269. - -St. Alban’s Abbey, 73, 92. - ----- St. Stephen’s, 73. - -St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory, 2, 3, 4, 86, 125, 256, 331, 342, 378, 379; - description, 5. - ----- St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, 29. - ----- Towers, 3. - -St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s, Douglas, description, 520. - -St. Bride’s Collegiate Church, Bothwell, description, 531. - -St. Colmanel of Butyle, 300; - description, 344. - -St. Cuthbert’s, Monkton, description, 285. - -St. Duthus’ Churches, Tain, description, 537. - -St. Giles’ Collegiate Church, Edinburgh, 331, 457, 460, 466, 504; - description, 419. - ----- Elgin, 157. - -St. Kentigern’s, Lanark, description, 266. - -St. Magnus’ Cathedral, Orkney, 3. - -St. Magridin’s, Abdie, description, 293. - -St. Mary’s Chapel, Rattray, description, 292. - -St. Michael’s Parish Church, Linlithgow, description, 455. - -St. Monans’ Church, Fifeshire, description, 471. - -St. Mungo’s Cathedral, Glasgow, description, 160. - -St. Mungo, Church of, Culross, 232. - -St. Nicholas’, Prestwick, description, 285. - -St. Nicholas’ Church, Newcastle, 445. - -St. Ninian’s (?) on “The Isle,” 297. - -Salisbury Cathedral, 3, 186. - -Scott, Sir G. Gilbert, 172. - -Seton Chapel, 501. - -Sharp’s “Cistercian Architecture,” 241, 242. - -Skipness, Kintyre, 300. - -Smith, Dr. John, 378. - -Spottiswoode, Archbishop, 19, 29, 107. - -Spynie Church, 121, 140. - -Stokes, Miss, 209. - -Stone roofs, 333. - -Sweetheart Abbey, 332; - description, 334. - - -Temple Church, 486. - -Third or Late Pointed Style, 332. - -Torphichen Church, 235. - -Towers, Central, 3. - -Transition Style, 2. - -Triforium omitted, 4. - -Trinity College Church, 426, 478. - -Tungland Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, description 301. - -Turgot, 6. - -Tynninghame Church, 234. - - -Vaults, Pointed, 2. - ----- Barrel, 333. - - -Watson, Robert, architect, 86. - ----- T. L., architect, 172, 173, 184. - -Whithorn Priory, 379; - description, 479. - -Winchester Cathedral, 373. - -Wooden roofs, 2. - -Wyntoun House, 306. - -Wyntown’s _Cronykill_, 8, 19, 27. - - -York Cathedral, 3, 333, 363, 381. - - - - -ERRATA. -(corrected in this etext) - - -Page 80, fifth line from top, _for_ 502, _read_ 503. - -Page 89, fifth line from top, _for_ eastern, _read_ northern. - -Page 196, first line, _for_ 599, _read_ 600. - -Page 308, third line from bottom, _for_ port, _read_ post. - -Page 540, sixth line from bottom, _for_ piers, _read_ pews. - -Pages 7, &c., _for_ fratry, _read_ fratry. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Vol. I. p. 46. - -[2] See Vol. I. p. 43. - -[3] See _Viollet-le-Duc Dictionnaire_--_passim_; also, _Development and -Character of Gothic Architecture_, by C. H. Moore (1890). - -[4] Vol. I. p. 40. - -[5] Bower (Vol. I. p. 375-6). - -[6] Introduction, p. 39. - -[7] Vol. I. p. 62. - -[8] _Ibid._ p. 355. - -[9] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 46. - -[10] Vol. I. p. 259. - -[11] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 47. - -[12] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 49. - -[13] _Ibid._ p. 11. - -[14] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 274. - -[15] See Vol. I. p. 185. - -[16] Over. - -[17] Apparently the door seen on Plan immediately west of the south -transept. - -[18] Tribute. - -[19] Martine’s _Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ_ (St. Andrews, 1797), pp. 40 and -192. - -[20] We have to thank Mr. Kinross, architect, for the plan of the -conventual buildings, here shown, which have been recently excavated. - -[21] Martine, p. 206, and Hay Fleming’s _Guide to St. Andrews_. - -[22] Book ix. - -[23] _Exchequer Rolls_, Vol. III., p. xlix. - -[24] Lyon’s _History of St. Andrews_, p. 191. - -[25] Quoted by Hay in his _History of Arbroath_, p. 27. - -[26] Vol. I. p. 376. - -[27] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -I., p. 561. - -[28] _Arbroath and its Abbey_, by David Miller, 1860, p. 103. - -[29] _Arbroath and its Abbey_, p. 105-6. See also _Castellated and -Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. v. p. 526. - -[30] _History of Arbroath_, by George Hay, p. 91. - -[31] _Ibid._, p. 193. - -[32] See Description of Holyrood Palace, _Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. IV. p. 130. - -[33] _Wilson’s Memorials_, Vol. II. p. 185. - -[34] For an illustration and description of the lectern, see -_Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland_, 1878-9, p. 287. - -[35] Pont’s _Cuninghame_ by Dobie, p. 254. - -[36] _Ibid._ p. 260. - -[37] Pont’s _Cuninghame_ by Dobie, p. 266. - -[38] Vol. I. p. 89. - -[39] We have to thank Mr. Robert Watson, architect, London, for the -geometric drawings of this cathedral--Figs. 509, 514, 515, 516-519, -520, 522, and 523. - -[40] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 396. - -[41] See St. Blane’s, Bute, Vol. I. p. 292. - -[42] In the recent restoration by Dr. R. Rowand Anderson, which has -been carried out since the above description was written, several -openings have been formed between the upper chamber (now used as an -organ loft) and the choir. - -[43] For further reference to the first Bishop William, see -_Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries_, Vol. XI., 1874-76. - -[44] _Historic Scenes in Perthshire_, by Dr. William Marshall, p. 343. - -[45] See description in _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of -Scotland_, Vol. IV. p. 285. - -[46] _Registrum Episc., Moraviensis_, p. xii. - -[47] _Register of the Diocese_, p. xiii. - -[48] The “Wolf” finally made his peace with the Church, and his -monument was erected in the cathedral of Dunkeld, where it still exists -(see Dunkeld Cathedral). - -[49] _Registrum_, p. xv. - -[50] See _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -II. p. 58, and Vol. V. p. 90. - -[51] _Exchequer Rolls_, Vol. III. pp. 276, 316, &c. - -[52] Nisbet, 1-51. - -[53] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -I. p. 439. - -[54] Spottiswoode, p. 145. - -[55] Spottiswoode, p. 145. - -[56] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -II. p. 246. - -[57] _Guide to Elgin Cathedral_, J. S. Pozzi, 1892, p. 29. - -[58] _Beauly Priory_, by E. Chisholm Batten, p. 136. - -[59] See Illustration in M‘Phail’s _History of Pluscardyn_, p. 121. - -[60] _Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis_, Preface, p. xxiv. - -[61] _Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis_, Preface, p. xxiv. - -[62] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -IV. p. 1. - -[63] This view is founded on drawings published in 1836 by James Collie. - -[64] Mr. Honeyman was kind enough to accompany us over the building and -explain his views on the spot. - -[65] This section is taken from Mr. Collie’s work above referred to. - -[66] Gordon’s _Vade Mecum to Glasgow Cathedral_, p. 66. - -[67] Royal Archæological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland, Annual -Meeting, Edinburgh, 1891. - -[68] See Mr. Chalmers’ work, _A Scots Mediæval Architect_, p. 45. - -[69] _Transactions of the Glasgow Archæological Society (New Series)_, -Vol. II., Part II., p. 155. - -[70] While passing through the press, we observe that Mr. P. Macgregor -Chalmers, in his recent very interesting work, _A Scots Mediæval -Architect_, states that he can prove that these figures illustrate the -seven ages of man. This interpretation is ingenious, and we should be -glad if the proof was made more convincing. Mr. Chalmers is of opinion -that the rood screen is of the time of Bishop Blackadder; but the -work is considerably superior to that of the adjoining altars, which -are certainly by that bishop. It is altogether of finer design and -execution than the work of about 1500. The pinnacles have some analogy -with those of the Dean’s seat in the chapter house. - -[71] Skene’s _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. pp. 397-400. - -[72] Black’s _Brechin_, p. 17. - -[73] _Ibid._ pp. 253, 254. - -[74] See Vol. I. p. 175. - -[75] _Ibid._ p. 127. - -[76] _Scotland in Early Christian Times_, p. 41. - -[77] Black’s _Brechin_, p. 276. - -[78] See _Lindores Abbey and its Burgh of Newburgh_, by Alexander -Laing, F. S. A. Scot., 1876. - -[79] Laing’s _Lindores Abbey_, p. 135. - -[80] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Session -1864-5, p. 14. - -[81] _Registrum Monasterii de Cambuskenneth_, Grampian Club. - -[82] _Ibid._ - -[83] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 18. - -[84] _History of Culross._ - -[85] Royal Institute of British Architects, 19th June 1871, p. 196. - -[86] Royal Institute of British Architects, 19th June 1871, p. 196. - -[87] It has, however, been suggested that, as the parish was anciently -very large, and included Kincardine, possibly the old parish church, -which is about a mile off in the country, was used for the landward -district, while that of the abbey was the parish church of the town. - -[88] _The Priory of Beauly_, by E. Chisholm-Batten, from which the -following historical notes are taken. - -[89] Stewart’s _Records of Kinloss_, XLIX. - -[90] For particulars of this abbey see _Registrum Sancte Marie de -Newbotle_, edited for the Bannatyne Club by Professor Cosmo Innes. - -[91] _Ibid._ pp. xv. xx. - -[92] _Ibid._ p. xxxix. - -[93] _Registrum Sancte Marie de Newbotle_, p. xi. - -[94] _Ibid._ pp. xv., xx. - -[95] Diplom. Coll. Adv. Libr. MSS., quoted in the _Registrum_, p. -xxiv. Father Hay, so well known in connection with Rosslyn, appears to -have had access to papers relating to Newbotle which are not now in -existence. - -[96] Diplom. Coll. Adv. Libr. MSS., quoted in the _Registrum_, p. xli., -and _Bannatyne Miscellany_, Vol. II. - -[97] _Registrum_, p. xliv. - -[98] _Ibid._ p. xliv. - -[99] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -III. p. 355. - -[100] We have to thank Mr. Ramsay for kindly supplying us with -the annexed Plan and the measurements of the ruins, and for other -assistance freely rendered. - -[101] “A Boar’s head, and on a chief indented 3 mullets, which are -probably the arms of James Hasmall, who was abbot of the monastery at -this time.”--_Descriptive Catalogue of Ancient Scottish Seals_, by -Henry Laing, No. 1090. Laing gives no authority for this supposition; -while in the Workman MSS. the same arms are assigned to Schewall of -that Ilk. Edward Schewall was abbot in 1526 and 1528. When he died is -not known. So that it is quite as likely that the arms on the sixth -shield are those of Abbot Schewall as that they refer to Abbot Hasmall. - -[102] _The Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, p. 257. - -[103] See Tynninghame and Whitekirk. - -[104] We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson, Dundee, for the drawings of -this church. - -[105] _Antiquities of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, Spalding Club, -p. 414. From _Chronica de Mailros_, pp. 197-8. - -[106] See _A General View of the Agriculture of Aberdeenshire_, by -George Skene Keith, D.D., Aberdeen, 1811, p. 98. - -[107] _Proceedings of Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. -VIII. p. 323. - -[108] _New Statistical Account._ - -[109] _Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, Vol. II. p. 394; -_Ibid._ p. 395. Also _Chamberlain Rolls_, Vol. III. p. -529. - -[110] _Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, Vol. IV. p. 61. - -[111] _Lindores Abbey_, p. 66. - -[112] _Ibid._ p. 69. - -[113] We have to thank Mr. Galloway, architect, Whithorn, for plans and -photographs of this chapel. - -[114] _Ecclesiological Notes_, p. 229. - -[115] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -I. p. 90. - -[116] Vol. III. p. 72. - -[117] M‘Kerlie’s _Galloway_, Vol. V. p. 234. - -[118] M‘Kerlie’s _Galloway_, Vol. V. p. 189. - -[119] _Transactions of the Edinburgh Architectural Association_, Vol. -I. p. 127. - -[120] Vol. V. p. 169. - -[121] Vol. IV. p. 322. - -[122] Act I., Scene 2. - -[123] See _Proceedings of Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. -II. p. 489. - -[124] See Introduction, Vol. I. p. 7. - -[125] Figs. 739 and 740 are from sketches in Sir J. Y. Simpson’s paper -above referred to. - -[126] Vol. I. p. 51. - -[127] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 55. - -[128] Vol. I. p. 388. - -[129] M‘Kerlie’s _Galloway_, Vol. V. p. 4. - -[130] Grose, p. 181. - -[131] M‘Kerlie’s _Galloway_, Vol. V. p. 5. - -[132] See Vol. I. pp. 347, 398, 448. - -[133] _Liber S. Marie de Melros_, Introduction, p. ix. See also -_Morton’s Monastic Annals of Teviotdale_. - -[134] See Vol. I. Fig. 26. - -[135] P. 178. - -[136] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 515. - -[137] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland_, Vol. -II. p. 168. - -[138] See Fig. 804. - -[139] See _ante_, Fig. 602. - -[140] Copied from Halfpenny’s _York_. - -[141] Copied from _The Builder_ of 4th April 1896. - -[142] Grose, p. 171. - -[143] _Chronicles of Lincluden_, by W. M‘Dowall, p. 55. - -[144] M‘Dowall, p. 140. - -[145] _Ibid._ p. 17. - -[146] M‘Dowall, p. 64. - -[147] Pennant, Vol. II. p. 119. - -[148] Mr. P. M‘Gregor Chalmers, in _A Scots Mediæval Architect_, p. 26, -gives a full account of the sculptured scenes on this screen. He thinks -they are the work of John Morow, in the beginning of the sixteenth -century; but the work here appears to us to be of earlier date. - -[149] Vol. I. p. 178. - -[150] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 229. - -[151] _Beauly Priory_, by E. Chisholm-Batten, p. 189. - -[152] Muir, _Characteristics_, p. 68. - -[153] _Priory of Beauly_, p. 195. - -[154] _Beauly Priory_, p. 198. - -[155] For illustrations of the gatehouse, see _The Castellated and -Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. III. p. 385. - -[156] In connection with St. Giles’ we are indebted to the following -works.--_The Charters of St. Giles’_, edited by Dr. Laing (1859); -_Memorials of Edinburgh_, by Sir Daniel Wilson (1848); _St. Giles’, -Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. J. Cameron Lees, D.D.; _The Story of St. -Giles’_, by Dr. W. Chambers (1870). - -[157] W. Chambers’ _Story of St. Giles’ Church_. - -[158] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 525. - -[159] This Plan shows the building as it stood before 1829, but without -the walls which divided the space into three churches. - -[160] This oriel is now rebuilt in the west end of the Murray aisle. - -[161] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 536. - -[162] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 311. - -[163] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 525. - -[164] _Exchequer Rolls_, Vol. II. - -[165] See _ante_, p. 297. - -[166] Vol. I. p. 4. - -[167] M‘Kerlie’s _Galloway_, Vol. I. p. 464. - -[168] _A Scots Mediæval Architect_, by P. M‘G. Chalmers, p. 30. - -[169] Vol. I. p. 362. - -[170] _Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. -I. p. 67. - -[171] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 64. - -[172] Robb’s _Guide_, p. 30. - -[173] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 203. - -[174] Robb’s _Guide_, p. 32. - -[175] _Ibid._ p. 35. - -[176] For further information see _Balmerino and its Abbey_, by the -Rev. James Campbell, M.A., and _Liber Sancte Marie de Balmorinach_, -Abbotsford Club, edited by William B. D. D. Turnbull. - -[177] _Balmerino and its Abbey_, p. 90. The ford of Burglyn was -probably on the river Eden, about eight miles distant. - -[178] _Ibid._, and _Calendar of State Papers relating to Scotland_, -Vol. I. p. 73. - -[179] _Balmerino and its Abbey_, p. 126. - -[180] These figures are from sketches by Mr. T. S. Robertson. - -[181] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -I. p. 80. - -[182] In Irving’s _Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, Vol. II. -p. 79, the monument to Sir James is stated to have been erected by Sir -Archibald, his son. - -[183] _Ibid._ p. 88. - -[184] _Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, Vol. II. p. 92. - -[185] _Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, Vol. II. p. 93. - -[186] _History of Tain_, by Rev. W. Taylor, p. 24. - -[187] P. 65. - -[188] Taylor’s _Tain_, pp. 40, 44. - -[189] _Ecclesiological Notes_, p. 62. - -[190] P. 52. - -[191] See List of Abbots of Fearn, in _The Priory of Beauty_, by -K. Chisholm-Batten, p. 313, and _New Statistical Account_, Vol. -XIV. pp. 361, 440. - -[192] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -III. p. 568. - -[193] Irving’s _Dumbartonshire_, p. 414. - - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -2/3 *** - -***** This file should be named 63978-0.txt or 63978-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/9/7/63978/ - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this ebook. - -Title: The ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland from the earliest - Christian times to the seventeenth century; vol. 2/3 - -Author: David MacGibbon - Thomas Ross - -Release Date: December 06, 2020 [EBook #63978] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - available at The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -2/3 *** -</pre><hr class="full" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" height="550" alt="[Image of the cover -is unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:1em auto 1em auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a><br /> -<a href="#INDEX">Index:</a><small><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</small></p> -<p class="c"><span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)</span></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i">{i}</a></span></p> - -<p class="c">THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE<br /> -OF SCOTLAND<br /><br /> -<small>FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE -SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.</small> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii">{ii}</a></span></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" -style="font-size:73%;"> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2"><i>Edinburgh: Printed by George Waterston & Sons</i></td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">FOR</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">DAVID DOUGLAS.</td></tr> -<tr><td>LONDON,</td><td>SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, AND CO., LIMITED</td></tr> -<tr><td>CAMBRIDGE,</td><td> MACMILLAN AND BOWES</td></tr> -<tr><td>GLASGOW,</td><td>JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span></p> - -<h1> -THE<br /> -<br /> -ECCLESIASTICAL<br /> -<br /> -<big>ARCHITECTURE</big><br /> -<br /> -OF SCOTLAND<br /> -<br /><small> -FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE<br /> -SEVENTEENTH CENTURY</small></h1> - -<p class="c">BY<br /> -<br /> -DAVID MACGIBBON <small>AND</small> THOMAS ROSS<br /> -<br /> -<small>AUTHORS OF “THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND”</small><br /> -<br /> -<i>VOLUME TWO</i><br /> -<br /> -<img src="images/title.png" height="250" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -<br /> -<br /> -EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS<br /> -<br /> -MDCCCXCVI<br /> -<br /> -<i>All rights reserved.</i><br /></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">{v}</a></span> </p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">As</span> this Volume contains drawings and descriptions of the examples of the -First Pointed and Middle Pointed Periods in Scotland, and, therefore, -illustrates the finest of our mediæval edifices, it may be convenient at -this stage to consider the position these buildings occupy in relation -to the general system of Gothic architecture in other countries. There -can scarcely be any question as to the Gothic style having been imported -into, and not being native to, this country. We have already seen that -the Norman style was gradually introduced from England, and was -afterwards superseded by the transition style. The buildings of the -first pointed period also show unmistakable indications of their design -having been brought from England,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> while those of the middle pointed -period, although clearly allied in style to English examples, exhibit in -their details a few signs of other influences. Although many of our -Scottish edifices contain much beautiful work, and all are full of -interest, it must be admitted that even the best examples of Gothic in -this country cannot claim to give full expression to the fundamental -principles of the Gothic style as developed in its native home, the -Royal Domain of France.</p> - -<p>The style being here an exotic, and being carried out rather as -imitative than as original, it is naturally to be expected that it -should disclose symptoms of departure from the spirit which animated -those by whom it was wrought out and developed. And that is, in fact, -the case.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the beauty of many of our larger and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span> finer edifices, -such as Holyrood and Melrose Abbeys, and Glasgow, Dunblane, and Elgin -Cathedrals, evidence is wanting in the design of these edifices of a -full appreciation of the leading principles which inspired and guided -the architects of the Ile de France. The Scottish buildings represent -the echo rather than the original voice of the genius of Gothic -architecture.</p> - -<p>The principal aim of the French architects of the latter half of the -twelfth century and during the thirteenth century was to produce -structures in which the arcuated or vaulted system of building should be -developed to its fullest extent. With these architects the vaulted -construction of the roof thus became the ruling element in the design, -all the other features being wrought out so as to be supplementary to, -and indicative of, the principles of the arcuated style. Every detail -was designed so as to fulfil its structural function in subordination to -that general idea. Thus the ribs of the vaults formed the framework on -which the vaulting panels rested, and conveyed the pressures created by -the weight of the roof to the points where these pressures were all -concentrated on the capitals of the wall shafts. From that point the -forces so concentrated were distributed, the vertical pressure being -conveyed downwards by the wall shafts to the foundations, and the -horizontal thrusts being counterbalanced by buttresses and flying -buttresses, which performed their share of the work by carrying these -forces obliquely to the ground. These primary features were the skeleton -which constituted the main elements of the building. They formed a -structure in stable equilibrium, which was independent of the filling in -of the walls, with windows, doors, and other details. The latter were -but the clothing and ornamentation of the main structural framework, and -in the completed style (as at Amiens Cathedral), all superfluous masonry -is abolished, and the spaces between the main structural elements are -enclosed with screens of tracery. The Gothic structure was thus a -composition in complete contrast with the Romanesque or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span> Norman edifices -which preceded it. In the latter, although arching and even vaulting -were employed, the arched system of construction was in an elementary -state, and the inert mass of the walls was chiefly relied on as a -counterpoise to the thrusts of the arches.</p> - -<p>It was not till the end of the twelfth and during the thirteenth century -that the Gothic system had been fully worked out by the French -architects. The arcuated principle had then been developed in a complete -and logical manner, and had entirely freed itself from the heavy and -unnecessary mass of the earlier Romanesque. Nothing was preserved except -the lightest framework required for stability, enclosed with screens of -tracery filled with stained glass. Every detail of the fully developed -Gothic style was designed on the same logical principles as the leading -structural features, and gave expression in its design to the function -it was required to fulfil,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> while the whole building was so ornamented -as to be in complete harmony with the general idea.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - -<p>In England the details of the perfected Gothic, especially as regards -decorative features, were carried out somewhat in the same spirit as in -France, but the leading elements in the general design do not seem to -have been so fully understood or carried out. The adherence to wooden -roofs—a common and general practice in England—alone shows the -difference in the guiding principles which operated in the two -countries. The wooden roof is a complete departure from the leading -element of the arcuated style. It shows an inclination to fall back on -the ancient trabeate or horizontal beam system, from which it had been -the great object of the earlier mediæval architects to free their -designs. The wooden roof ignores the leading idea of a vaulted fireproof -covering, and abandons the principle of the concentration of the roof<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span> -pressures on particular points, as is the case in groined vaulting. No -doubt a wooden roof may be designed so as to throw a greater amount of -its pressure on some points than on others, but the principle of the -wooden roof is that of the tie beam and the distribution of the weight -over the side walls.</p> - -<p>The actuating motive of Gothic design in the main feature of the -vaulting being thus lost sight of in England, it is not surprising to -find it inactive in other directions. The Romanesque element of massive -walls, with small windows, is likewise partially adhered to, and in -details also the guiding principle of French design is in some respects -abandoned. The round form of the abacus—so universally employed in -England—may be cited as a characteristic example of departure from the -Gothic principle.</p> - -<p>In France the abacus of the columns is invariably shaped so as to -receive each shaft or rib which it is its function to carry; whereas the -round abacus adopted in England receives indiscriminately all the -members which descend upon it, and their loads are often carried by -shafts not having any distinct or structural relation to the members -which rest on the abacus above them.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding these and similar defections from the leading principles -of Gothic, the architecture of England is (as has already been pointed -out)<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> in many respects very charming, and, in point of variety and -picturesqueness, possibly sometimes surpasses French examples.</p> - -<p>What is here attempted to be pointed out is not so much that English -Gothic is defective in the above respects, as that certain logical -principles, inseparable from a genuine arcuated system, are less weakly -developed in England than in the Ile de France. If between the -architecture of the two countries there is not much to choose as regards -picturesque details and ornamental features, there can be little -question but that the logical spirit which apprehended and followed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span> out -the principles of the arcuated style to their full limits is more -clearly apparent in the one than in the other.</p> - -<p>The position of Gothic in England being as described, it is only natural -to find in the structures of the leading periods of the style in -Scotland, which shine by a light borrowed from England, a similar and -even greater departure from the main ideas which actuated the architects -of France. The same defects occur here as in England—the frequent use -of the wooden roof for wide spans being common to both countries, and -producing similar results in each. The wooden roof led, from the -principles of its structure, to changes and peculiarities in the design -throughout. In some cases the wall shafts which divide the bays are -entirely omitted, and give place to a large expanse of plain wall over -the main arcade. Instances of this occur at Sweetheart Abbey and -Dunblane Cathedral (see <a href="#fig_758">Figs. 758</a>, <a href="#fig_510">510</a>). In other examples a continuous -arcade is carried along at the triforium level, without any -strengthening of the walls over the main piers, thus carrying out the -principle of the wooden roof, which implies an equal pressure all along -the side walls. This is a very marked feature at Kelso Abbey and -Dunblane Cathedral.</p> - -<p>In some buildings, although vaulted, the wall shafts are of such slight -dimensions as to be scarcely of any value (even to the eye) in conveying -the weight of the vaults to the ground, and these shafts frequently do -not descend to the base, or even to the caps of the main piers, but are -carried on corbels inserted in the side walls at a considerable height -above the caps of the piers. The functional use of the wall shafts is -thus disregarded, and they become mere ornaments.</p> - -<p>Slight wall shafts of this description, carried on corbels, occur in the -nave of Glasgow Cathedral, in the choir of St. Giles’, Edinburgh; in St. -Michael’s, Linlithgow; Crosraguel Abbey, &c.; while in the choir of -Glasgow Cathedral and in Haddington Church the small wall shafts spring -from the caps of the main piers.</p> - -<p>In Elgin Cathedral the vaulting shafts, which are mere<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x">{x}</a></span> beads, descend -to the ground, and the clerestory arcade is almost continuous.</p> - -<p>In Lincluden College the vaulting shafts, which are heavier than usual, -all rest on corbels in the side walls, not far above the floor, so that -none of their loads are conveyed to the foundation.</p> - -<p>Vaulting is very generally adopted in the side aisles, but in these, -too, the Gothic idea is often lost sight of, the wall responds having -frequently their bases supported on side benches or seats, instead of -being carried to the ground.</p> - -<p>Externally, as well as internally, our Scottish Gothic is somewhat -defective in its mode of carrying out the arcuated principles. The -wooden roofs so frequently employed really require no buttresses, and, -therefore, our buildings are in so far right where in such cases only -very slight pilaster-buttresses are used in the triforium, as is the -case in Glasgow, Elgin, and Dunblane Cathedrals. In the side aisles, -which are vaulted, the buttresses are sometimes heavier, but these -features are insignificant as compared with the great flying buttresses -and piers of the genuine arcuated or Gothic style of Northern France.</p> - -<p>In many other respects there may be traced in Scotland a certain absence -of the Gothic spirit, which discarded every element not essential to the -carrying out of the arcuated principle. Even in our finest structures -the Romanesque or Norman influence continues to prevail. A large expanse -of heavy walling, with small openings, is not unusual. In almost no -building are the solid side walls omitted and light tracery substituted -between the main supporting piers, as is the case in the best Gothic in -France. The broad masses of masonry in the triforium and clerestory of -the churches at Linlithgow and Haddington may be cited as examples of -the absence of the Gothic spirit. The continued adherence to solid walls -with narrow lancet-formed windows is a marked feature of both English -and Scottish architecture.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span></p> - -<p>Moulded caps, with round abaci, are usual here, as in England, and have -the same defects, both in principle and practice. In the later examples -the relation between the shafts or mouldings, which carry the caps, and -the arch-mouldings above them is abandoned, and that genuine Gothic -principle is entirely ignored.</p> - -<p>Many of the above defections from pure Gothic arise from, or owe their -origin (as we have seen) to, the use of wooden roofs.</p> - -<p>It may be argued that there is no necessity for the above principles -being adhered to, and that English and Scottish architects were quite at -liberty, when required, either from want of skill or absence of funds, -to cover their naves with wooden roofs.</p> - -<p>That argument is at once conceded; but, then, they should have frankly -acknowledged that they departed from the arcuate and adopted the -trabeate system. That, however, was never done; hence the imperfect -carrying out of the arcuate system, as practised in France, which we -find in most of our churches, and which shows that the style was here -not original, but imitative.</p> - -<p>What we desire to insist on is not that good architecture is -incompatible with structures roofed with timber, or any other material, -but that the fundamental principles of Gothic spring from the -development of an arcuated style, and that that principle has been only -fully and logically carried out in Northern France. In other countries -in which Gothic architecture was adopted, much of its spirit was caught -and developed; but when the vaulting or dominating feature of the style -was absent, the manifestations of the Gothic spirit were comparatively -weak and imperfect. These weaknesses and imperfections appear to prove -the derivative nature of the architecture in those countries, and -especially in Scotland.</p> - -<p>But the fact of the Gothic of Scotland being of borrowed origin does not -prevent much of it here, as in England, from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span> being beautiful and -instructive, as, it is hoped, the following pages will show.</p> - -<p>Probably one of the Scottish edifices in which Gothic principles are -best exemplified is Melrose Abbey. The whole building was vaulted with -stone, and the vaulting was chiefly groined. The ribs (see <a href="#fig_767">Fig. 767</a>) -descend on the caps of vaulting shafts of trefoil section, the central -division of which rests on a corbel at the level of the main pier caps, -while the other two divisions of the trefoil shaft descend without -interruption to the base of the piers. That at least was the design, -although it was in some of the piers interfered with by the introduction -of a screen. In the south aisle also the vaulting ribs are carried on -wall shafts or responds, which descend to the bases; but there is an -unnecessary amount of wall on each side of these shafts and over the -longitudinal arches, which lead into the outer chapels.</p> - -<p>The vaults are counterpoised with suitable flying arches (see <a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>) -abutting on solid buttresses, loaded with lofty pinnacles, which give -them due resistance to the thrusts brought to bear on them. The windows -in the south chapel walls (and clerestory of choir) are larger than -usual, and are filled with tracery; but there is here also an -unnecessary amount of plain wall between the bays, especially in the -nave clerestory.</p> - -<p>There is, however, at Melrose an entire absence of the heavy blank wall -so often introduced over the main arcade, although the absence of any -triforium makes the building seem somewhat low and squat. The large -amount of solid masonry over the exterior of the great east window of -the choir and south window of the transept is likewise a defect. The -round abacus is almost always used at Melrose, but the shafts of the -piers are simple and distinct, and each member carries a clearly defined -series of mouldings.</p> - -<p>The authors beg again to tender their acknowledgment of the assistance -they have received from many quarters. They have especially to thank Mr. -<span class="smcap">T. S. Robertson</span>, Archi<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiii" id="page_xiii">{xiii}</a></span>tect, Dundee; Mr. <span class="smcap">William Galloway</span>, Architect, -Wigton; and Mr. <span class="smcap">R. Bruce Armstrong</span>, for the drawings and descriptions -they have kindly contributed, and which are referred to in the text. To -Mr. <span class="smcap">John Honeyman</span> and Mr. <span class="smcap">T. L. Watson</span>, Architects, Glasgow, they are -also indebted for assistance in connection with Glasgow Cathedral.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Since the description of St. Andrews Cathedral in this Volume was -written, considerable progress has been made with the works referred to -in the text, as being carried on for Lord Bute by Mr. Kinross, -Architect, and several new points have been disclosed.</p> - -<p>The west doorway from the cloister into the nave (which is in a modern -vinery) has been opened up on the south side, and its massive first -pointed architecture has been shown. The arch is pointed, and the -details (including dog-tooth enrichments) correspond in style with the -entrance to the chapter house (see <a href="#fig_452">Fig. 452</a>).</p> - -<p>The whole of the crypt of the refectory (see <a href="#fig_454">Fig. 454</a>) has been -excavated and the pillars uncovered, showing that there were two rows of -pillars and three vaults in the width of the building. The pillars, -which are round, have been restored so far as they were incomplete, and -so have the groined arches, the new work being executed in red -sandstone, so that it may be easily distinguishable from the old work, -which is of a light coloured freestone. The masonry of the old pillars -being considerably shattered, it has been found necessary, in restoring -the crypt, to insert an iron column in the heart of each pillar, in -order to give them sufficient strength to carry the weight of the vault. -It is not known to what use this crypt was applied.</p> - -<p>In the east range of buildings running south from the chapter house, the -excavations have been continued, and the pillars of a vaulted chamber -below the dormitory have been revealed. As this chamber contains a -fireplace, it may possibly have been the day room or calefactory of the -canons,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiv" id="page_xiv">{xiv}</a></span> as only one fireplace (and that in the calefactory) was allowed -in the monasteries. There is, however, some doubt as to whether this -fireplace is original. At the south end of this chamber a deep drain or -water channel, carefully built with ashlar, has been found. This was, -doubtless, the main sewer of the monastery, through which there flowed a -constant stream of water. The stream which fed the mill race (see -<a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>) is not far distant. The latrines were, without doubt, situated -above this sewer.</p> - -<p>In the grounds of the existing school of St. Leonard’s, which lie on the -south side of the road leading from the “pends” to the harbour, was -formerly situated St. Leonard’s Hospitium, or Guests’ Hall, for the -reception of pilgrims and strangers visiting St. Andrews. This Hospitium -was an ancient foundation, but according to Martine it was rebuilt by -Prior John White in the middle of the thirteenth century. Of this -structure there still survive the ruins of the east wall, and by recent -excavations made to the westwards, it has been discovered that the -building consisted of a large hall, having a central nave and two side -aisles. The foundations disclosed show that there were four bays in the -length of the hall.</p> - -<p>The following translations from Bower’s continuation of Fordun’s -<i>Scotichronicon</i>,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> which Lord Bute has been good enough to send us, -together with his own valuable notes, throw some light on the dates of -parts of the cathedral and other matters connected with it, especially -the work done by Prior Halderston, 1418-1443, viz.:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“This Lord [prior] James Halderston [inducted in 1418], master in -Divinity, was extremely eloquent and of a good presence, and very -careful and neat in his person and dress. After he had ruled his -house well for twenty-four years, he died at his monastery on July -18, and was honourably buried in the north wall of the Chapel of -our Lady, in the cathedral church, <small>A.D.</small> 1443.</p></div> - -<p>In connection with above, Lord Bute mentions that Bower (p. 366) states -that Bishop Henry Wardlaw, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xv" id="page_xv">{xv}</a></span> died April 6th, 1440, “was buried in the -Church of St. Andrew, with greater pomp than his predecessors, in the -wall between the choir and the Chapel of our Lady,” thus making it -evident that the Chapel of our Lady was the chapel on the north side of -the choir.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“He [Prior Halderston] adorned the church of his monastery with -wonderful and remarkable beauty, both in the carving of the stalls -and in the painting of figures. The nave of this church had been -erected by his predecessor, the Lord [prior] James Bisset, of -worthy memory [who sat from 1393 to 1416], in a sumptuous manner, -with rafters and ceilings [<i>tignis et tecturis</i>], but inside it was -an empty, vast, and deserted synagogue. He [Halderston] fitted it -throughout in becoming manner with glass windows, along with the -erection of altars, figures, and decorations and polished -pavements.” Lord Bute asks—“Did he add the altar against the -screen which crosses the south aisle just west of the eastmost door -into the cloister?”</p> - -<p>“He [Halderston] built the eastern gable from the foundations, -along with its arch [<i>arcuali voltâ</i>].” As Lord Bute remarks—“This -must mean only the east window, the greater part of the east wall -being of transition work” (see Figs. 443-444.) “He adorned -pleasingly the hinder vestry [<i>revestiarium</i>] with the reliques and -other restorations and cases [<i>clausaris</i>] at considerable -expense.”</p></div> - -<p>Lord Bute thinks that “the revestiarium is evidently the east end of the -church behind the high altar, sometimes wrongly called the Lady Chapel,” -and refers for the use of this term to the contemporary accounts of the -death of the Red Comyn, in which he is sometimes stated to have been -dragged by the friars into the vestry, and sometimes behind the altar, -thus showing the space behind the altar to have been the vestry.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“He laid with a pleasing pavement the whole space not only of the -choir, but also of the transept [<i>transversarum capellarum</i>] of the -church, along with both sides [<i>lateribus sive panis</i>] of the -cloister, and also the outer chapter house [<i>inferius capitulum</i>]. -He rebuilt, as it were, from the foundations the fair and -remarkable palace within the court of the prior’s lodging, along -with the handsome [<i>decentoribus</i>] oratory and chamber which are -there situated;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xvi" id="page_xvi">{xvi}</a></span> and likewise domestic manor-houses in their [or -his ‘<i>suis</i>’] ‘<i>locaperhendinalia</i>’ [places where he might -occasionally have to stay, <i>perendie</i> = the day after to-morrow], -such as Ballon, Segy, and Kynmoth.”</p></div> - -<p>The following note on the above passage is subjoined by Lord Bute:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Bower states (pp. 368-369) that Prior John of Haddington, who sat -1263-1304, ‘made the great chamber which is situated in the east -part of the monastery, beside the burying-ground;’ that Prior John -of Forfar (1313-1321) ‘built the new chamber adjoining the -cloister, which the priors have usually had, and which Prior -William of Lothian (1340-1354) afterwards enclosed on every side -with a very strong wall;’ also, that William of Lothian roofed ‘the -eastern chamber’ at great expense.” Lord Bute goes on to say—“My -impression is, that the ‘new chamber’ is that afterwards called the -senzie chamber; several priors and bishops are mentioned as having -died ‘in the prior’s chamber,’ but that Halderston rebuilt the -eastern chamber, erecting a fine house there, and also rebuilding -some rather decayed old oratory on a finer scale [<i>decentiori</i>]. He -was the first who obtained for the priors the use of the pastoral -insignia—viz., the mitre, staff, and ring. ‘He strikingly -increased for their glory the pomp of divine service, at the -celebration of the mass of our lady in her chapel. [Probably it was -the custom for the priors to sing or say it on certain days, or -every day].... In his days the Lord William Bower, vicar of St. -Andrews, completed the altar of [Christ] crucified in the nave of -the church, adorned with its permanent [<i>solido</i>] throne and -sumptuous figures; and likewise William of Ballochy, his sub-prior, -with the desire of the said prior, completed in a very beautiful -and comely manner the space of the dormitory at the sides and the -other pavements.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p></div> - -<p>With regard to the work of William Bower, Lord Bute says:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“I only know of one other instance of a permanent stone gallery of -one arch crossing the nave; this is at Frankfort, and I got there -an architectural work on it. At Frankfort, the imperial throne -stood upon it as the Commissioner’s throne used to stand in St. -Giles’, Edinburgh, before it was all pulled down a few years ago; -the throne of the King of France on the rood loft at Rheims, &c. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xvii" id="page_xvii">{xvii}</a></span>&c. But this throne was not permanent. I believe that at St. -Andrews there was this single span arch, bearing a platform, upon -which was a great canopy (as in St. Giles’), and under the canopy -the royal throne, looking eastwards, and the altar of the crucifix -back to back with it (as with the imperial throne and domestic -altar in the gallery at Aachen). In the rood loft at Rheims the -king’s domestic altar was not back to back with the throne, but at -the south end of the gallery at his right hand. Above the roof of -the baldaquin or canopy (at St. Andrews), over the throne and -altar, I imagine the great rood, with a multitude of ‘sumptuous -figures,’ to have towered up towards the roof.”</p></div> - -<p>From the above quotations from Bower, and Lord Bute’s remarks thereon, -attention is drawn to a number of interesting points connected with the -cathedral and priory, and the names and dates of the priors to whom -certain parts of the structure are due. We gather from them—</p> - -<p class="hang">1. That the Lady Chapel was situated on the north side of the -choir.</p> - -<p class="hang">2. That the nave was, to a large extent, rebuilt and roofed by -Prior James Bisset, about the beginning of the fifteenth century, -but remained an “empty synagogue” till completed and furnished with -glazed windows, altars, and decorations by his successor, Prior -Halderston.</p> - -<p>This corresponds with the period assigned in the text (<a href="#page_18">pp. 18</a> and <a href="#page_28">28</a>) -for the rebuilding of the upper portion of the west end.</p> - -<p class="hang">3. Numerous other works were carried out by Prior Halderston. He it -was who altered the east end, and introduced the single large -window in place of several smaller ones. He also executed the -pavement of the choir, transept, and cloister walk, and rebuilt the -prior’s palace. He likewise carried out other works, the sites of -which are indefinite; and he obtained for the priory the pastoral -insignia.</p> - -<p>According to Lord Bute’s view, a single great arch was thrown across the -nave, between the second pillars from the crossing, above which was a -gallery, where stood the royal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xviii" id="page_xviii">{xviii}</a></span> throne, surmounted by a baldaquin, -having the altar of the crucifix behind it; while above the canopy -towered the great rood, together with numerous figures. Lord Bute -points, in support of this view, to the example at Frankfort, where an -arch of a single span supported the rood loft and imperial and royal -thrones.</p> - -<p>As regards the Commissioner’s or royal throne at St. Giles’, Edinburgh, -it no doubt occupied the centre of the gallery at the west end of the -choir, or “High Church,” when the building was divided into three -churches, and it had a canopy over it. It thus stood in the position -where a rood loft might have been, but the gallery it occupied was an -erection of this century, and did not rest on an ancient base.</p> - -<p><small><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>, <i>October 1896</i>.</small></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xix" id="page_xix">{xix}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:85%;"> - -<tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Introductory remarks—New development of architecture at end -of twelfth century, along with other new developments—Introduction -of Pointed Style succeeded the Transition—Connection -with England—Features of First Pointed Style in -Scotland—Central Towers, Cloisters, &c., as in England—Omission -of triforium not unusual—Few parish churches of -<a href="#FIRST_POINTED_PERIOD">First Pointed Period</a>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_1">1-5</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory (<i>Augustinian</i>),</td><td valign="top"> Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_5">5</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, St. Andrews,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_29">29</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Arbroath Abbey (<i>Tironensian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Forfarshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_30">30</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><span style="margin-left: 1em;margin-right:1em;">Do.</span> Abbot’s House </td><td valign="top"> Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_49">49</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Holyrood Abbey (<i>Augustinian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Edinburgh,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_53">53</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilwinning Abbey (<i>Tironensian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Ayrshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Dunblane Cathedral,</td><td valign="top">Perthshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_86">86</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Inchmahome Priory (<i>Augustinian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Stirlingshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Elgin Cathedral,</td><td valign="top">Morayshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_121">121</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Pluscardine Priory (<i>Valliscaulian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Glasgow Cathedral,</td><td valign="top">Lanarkshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_160">160</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Brechin Cathedral,</td><td valign="top">Forfarshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Maison Dieu, Brechin,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_215">215</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Lindores Abbey (<i>Tironensian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_217">217</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Cambuskenneth Abbey (<i>Augustinian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Stirlingshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_225">225</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Culross Abbey (<i>Cistercian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Perthshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_231">231</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Old Parish Church, Culross,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_243">243</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Beauly Priory (<i>Valliscaulian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Inverness-shire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Newbattle or Newbotle Abbey (<i>Cistercian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_251">251</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Lismore Cathedral,</td><td valign="top">Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_263">263</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Kentigern’s, Lanark,</td><td valign="top">Lanarkshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_266">266</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Adamnan’s (?), Burntisland,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_269">269</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Baldred’s, Prestonkirk,</td><td valign="top">Haddingtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_271">271</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Cowie Church,</td><td valign="top">Kincardineshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_273">273</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">The Abbey of Deer (<i>Cistercian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Aberdeenshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Deer Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_278">278</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Auchindoir Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Cuthbert’s, Monkton,</td><td valign="top">Ayrshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_285">285</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Nicholas’, Prestwick,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_285">285</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Luffness Monastery (<i>Redfriars</i>),</td><td valign="top">Haddingtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_288">288</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Altyre Church,</td><td valign="top">Morayshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_290">290</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xx" id="page_xx">{xx}</a></span> -St. Mary’s Chapel, Rattray,</td><td valign="top">Aberdeenshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_292">292</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Magridin’s, Abdie,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_293">293</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Ninian’s (?) on “The Isle,”</td><td valign="top">Wigtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_297">297</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Chapel, Dunstaffnage Castle,</td><td valign="top">Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_299">299</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Colmanel’s, Buittle,</td><td valign="top">Kirkcudbrightshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_300">300</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Tungland Abbey (<i>Premonstratensian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_301">301</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Cockpen Church,</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_303">303</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Pencaitland Church,</td><td valign="top">Haddingtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_304">304</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Font, Gogar Church,</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_306">306</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">The Abbey of Inchcolm (<i>Augustinian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_307">307</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#MIDDLE_POINTED_OR_DECORATED_PERIOD">MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED PERIOD</a>.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Introductory remarks—Few buildings erected in fourteenth century, -but many destroyed during the wars with England—A -gap in Scottish architecture during fourteenth century—Building -again begun in fifteenth century—Style of early part -of century closely allied to the Decorated of England, but in -the latter half of century the style differed from that both of -France and England, and partook of features from both these -countries—Style of Melrose Abbey compared with that of -York Minster—Introduction of special features in Scotland, -such as the Pointed Barrel Vault supporting a stone roof, and -the erection of collegiate churches,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_331">331-334</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey (<i>Cistercian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Kirkcudbrightshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_334">334</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Melrose Abbey (<i>Cistercian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Roxburghshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_344">344</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Lincluden College,</td><td valign="top">Kirkcudbrightshire, </td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_383">383</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Fortrose Cathedral,</td><td valign="top">Ross-shire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_394">394</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Crosraguel Abbey (<i>Cluniac</i>),</td><td valign="top">Ayrshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_402">402</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Giles’ Collegiate Church,</td><td valign="top">Edinburgh,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_419">419</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Michael’s, Linlithgow,</td><td valign="top">West Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_455">455</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Monans’,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_471">471</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Whithorn Priory (<i>Premonstratensian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Wigtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_479">479</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Temple Church,</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_486">486</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Mary’s, Haddington,</td><td valign="top">East Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_491">491</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Balmerino Abbey (<i>Cistercian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_505">505</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Chapel in Rothesay Castle,</td><td valign="top">Buteshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_517">517</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Bride’s, Douglas,</td><td valign="top">Lanarkshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_520">520</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Bride’s College, Bothwell,</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_531">531</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Duthus’, Tain,</td><td valign="top">Ross-shire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_537">537</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Fearn Abbey (<i>Premonstratensian</i>),</td><td valign="top">Do.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_542">542</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Peter’s, Inverkeithing,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_547">547</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Aberdalgie, Monument of Sir W. Olifurd,</td><td valign="top">Perthshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_551">551</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Devenic’s, Creich,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_554">554</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Faslane Church,</td><td valign="top">Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_557">557</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span></p> - -<h1>THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND<br /><br /> - -FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.<br /><br /> - -V O L U M E I I.</h1> - -<h2><a name="FIRST_POINTED_PERIOD" id="FIRST_POINTED_PERIOD"></a>FIRST POINTED PERIOD.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> the previous volume those styles of architecture in Scotland were -dealt with which are directly derived from the earlier styles of Celtic -and Roman or Romanesque art, and it was shown, in the examples of the -Transition style, that the old forms were passing away and new forms -were being introduced.</p> - -<p>We have now reached that point in the history of mediæval architecture -when it took an entirely new and original development. It has already -been pointed out<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> that this new departure sprung from the necessity -which arose for the invention of an elastic system of vaulting which -should admit of all the arches, forming vaults over spaces of any form -on plan, being carried to the same height at the ridge. This requirement -led to the introduction of the pointed arch in the vaulting, and from -that department it soon spread to all the other arched features of the -architecture.</p> - -<p>This new development took place at a time when great changes were -occurring, especially in France, in social and intellectual life. Men’s -minds were then gradually awakening, science and instruction were -spreading under Abailard and other teachers, the towns were obtaining -their freedom, and a new system of things was gradually unfolding -itself.</p> - -<p>Architecture, which had hitherto been confined to the monasteries, was -now undertaken by laymen, who, discarding the old traditional methods, -strove after a new and simpler mode of expressing their ideas in stone. -The elaborate and stereotyped features and ornaments of the Romanesque -style were rejected, and simpler forms, at first almost without -ornament, were adopted, which emphasised the constructional elements of -the architecture.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span></p> - -<p>Of this simple, but vigorous, early pointed style numerous examples -still exist in France and Spain. When introduced amongst the Normans and -English towards the close of the twelfth century the pointed style had -acquired a certain amount of ornamentation of a new and appropriate -description.</p> - -<p>The examples already illustrated show that during the Transition period -the new style was making itself felt in Scotland about the end of the -twelfth century. At Dundrennan and Jedburgh Abbeys the pointed arch -becomes prominent amongst the round arches of the earlier style, but -many of the old enrichments are still adhered to. This clinging to old -forms may still to a certain extent be noticed in some of the structures -whose leading features are in the first pointed style, but these relics -gradually, though slowly, disappear. The round arch, however, sometimes -maintains its position in Scottish doorways throughout the whole of the -Gothic period.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<p>The pointed arch is above referred to at Kelso<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> as having been -introduced, along with Norman elements, at the crossing under the tower, -where its strength was considered useful. The pointed arch, however, -cannot generally be said to have been adopted in Scotland in consequence -of any special requirement of construction; it rather followed the lead -of countries further south as a matter of fashion. Few of our early -churches were vaulted throughout at the beginning of the thirteenth -century, and the forms of such vaults as existed were, doubtless, -borrowed from England. The vaults of the choir of St. Andrews Cathedral -and the lower church of Glasgow Cathedral are probably the only -exceptions, most of our other large churches having been vaulted, if -vaulted at all, at a later period. The large churches were generally -designed to have the side aisles only vaulted, the central aisle being -covered with a wooden roof, as, for example, Arbroath Abbey and Dunblane -and Elgin Cathedrals. Holyrood Abbey is an exception; but there the -vaulting of the central aisle was sexpartite, and the pointed arch was -not much required.</p> - -<p>The first pointed style, when introduced into this country, speedily -spread, and most of our large churches are built in that style. Many -monasteries, as we have seen, were founded in the time of the sons of -Queen Margaret; but most of these appear to have been at first on a -small scale, and were chiefly rebuilt on a larger plan, together with -new monasteries, in the thirteenth century. Such are the abbeys of -Holyrood, Inchcolm, Kilwinning, Pluscardine, Culross, and Beauly.</p> - -<p>The thirteenth century was also distinguished as the great epoch for the -erection of cathedrals. The secular clergy had then risen to power, and, -under their guidance, the erection of magnificent cathedrals, both at -home and abroad, was the principal architectural phenomenon of the -period. In France and England the great majority of the cathedrals owe<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span> -their origin or completion to about this epoch; and in Scotland there -were erected, in whole or part, during the first pointed period, the -cathedrals of St. Andrews, Dunblane, Glasgow (the choir and crypt), -Elgin, Brechin, Dunkeld, Caithness, the choir of St. Magnus’ in Orkney, -and Galloway.</p> - -<p>The first pointed style, in which all the above structures were carried -out, reached Scotland, as already mentioned,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> through England. The -relation between the ecclesiastics of the two countries was then very -close, the monasteries being colonised from English houses, and the -cathedral rules being based on the uses of those of England.</p> - -<p>Hence, as might be expected, the connection of the style of architecture -adopted in Scotland with that of England is at this period very -intimate, almost the only difference observable being that the first -pointed work in Scotland is rather later than that in England, and that -the Norman and transition features are more slowly rejected. We find the -same desire in both countries to render their principal ecclesiastical -structures complete and varied. We have no cathedrals in Scotland which -can vie with Salisbury, Lincoln, or York in size and magnificence, or in -the possession of double transepts. The Scottish cathedrals and abbeys, -however, were, for the most part, complete in all departments, having -choir and nave with side aisles (and, in the case of Elgin Cathedral, -with double aisles to the nave); a presbytery of one or two bays without -aisles, but with large windows on three sides; well-marked transepts -with eastern aisle; generally a large central tower over the crossing, -and frequently two western and other towers.</p> - -<p>Great central towers over the crossing of the first pointed period -formerly existed at St. Andrews and Elgin Cathedrals, and at Dundrennan, -Arbroath, Holyrood, Kilwinning, and Dunfermline Abbeys, but of these not -a vestige now remains. The only central towers which now survive are -those of Glasgow Cathedral and Pluscardine Abbey, which are carried on -the arches of the crossing. There is also a central tower at Culross -Abbey which rises with solid walls from the foundation. The central -towers of Kirkwall and Dornoch Cathedrals have been rebuilt.</p> - -<p>Of the other towers which once adorned our churches there still remain -the two noble western towers of Elgin Cathedral, and one of the western -towers of Holyrood Abbey. At both of these edifices the towers were -carried up with solid walls from the foundation. In other examples, of -which, however, only fragments survive, such as Arbroath and Kilwinning -Abbeys, the towers opened with arches into the central and side aisles, -so that the space occupied by the towers was included in the church. At -Kilwinning the arch in the towers next the nave appears to have been -carried to a great height, so as to form a kind of western transept. At -Inchmahome Priory there are remains of one western tower, which was -included in the nave. At Cambuskenneth Abbey a large detached tower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span> -exists close to the west end, and at Lindores Abbey there are remains of -one western tower.</p> - -<p>The dependent buildings were also usually numerous and complete, the -cathedrals and abbeys being almost all provided with large cloister -garths, surrounded by handsome chapter houses, refectories, guest -houses, &c. The chapter houses are generally square, and vaulted from -one central pillar; but that of Elgin Cathedral is detached and -octagonal, with vaulting springing from a lofty central column. The -western portals are generally important, those of Elgin Cathedral and -Holyrood Abbey being specially fine. That of Kirkwall Cathedral, already -described,<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> is the finest of this period.</p> - -<p>The Norman round apse gives place at this time, as in England, to the -square east end, and there is in the first pointed period no indication -of a round or multangular chevet like those in France.</p> - -<p>The similarity of all the details of the architecture of Scotland to -that of England has already been fully explained.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p> - -<p>The Scottish churches are comparatively low in the vaulting; they do not -exhibit the soaring ambition of those of France, but are, like the -churches of the sister country, comparatively moderate in height. The -buttresses are simple and plain, and flying buttresses and pinnacles are -occasionally used. The caps are round on plan, and have foliage founded -on that of the early first pointed style in England.</p> - -<p>The windows are almost always of the lancet form, several being often -grouped together, and some incipient forms of tracery are attempted, as -at Dunblane and Glasgow Cathedrals.</p> - -<p>In the piers the massive round columns of the Norman style are -abandoned, and clustered shafts are used, which give a lighter character -to the interior. The sections of these piers are exceedingly simple and -effective. They are usually illustrated in connection with each edifice, -and they have all a general resemblance to each other. The section -consists of one larger attached shaft (usually brought to an acute edge -in the centre) on each of the four cardinal faces, and one or two -intermediate smaller shafts between the four principal shafts, either -separated by square fillets or without such fillets. In the later -examples the sharp keel edge on the face of the shafts becomes a fillet.</p> - -<p>The bays sometimes follow the ordinary arrangement in England, having a -triforium arcade over the main arcade, surmounted by the clerestory. In -some of our largest churches, viz., St. Andrews and Glasgow Cathedrals, -and Kilwinning, Holyrood, Arbroath, and Pluscardine Abbeys, this -arrangement is followed; but it is notable that in several churches, as -at Elgin and Dunblane Cathedrals, the triforium is dispensed with, and -the clerestory is placed immediately over the main arcade. In other -examples, as at Dryburgh Abbey, the triforium is reduced to a minimum, -and the gallery represented only by a round cusped opening. The absence<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span> -of the triforium is an arrangement which was much adhered to in the -later epochs of our Gothic architecture.</p> - -<p>The relative lengths of the nave and choir have already been referred -to;<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> but attention may be drawn to the remarkable fact that in the -monastic churches, which were constructed chiefly for the use of the -monks, the choir, or portion set apart for the ecclesiastics, is small, -and the nave is large; while in the cathedrals, which were intended for -the use of the community, the choir is large as compared with the nave.</p> - -<p>During the first pointed period attention seems to have been chiefly -directed to the erection of large cathedrals and monastic churches—the -number of parish churches constructed at this period being comparatively -small.</p> - -<p>This, no doubt, partly arose from the large number of parish churches -built during the Norman period. Several examples of small churches of -the first pointed period, however, are illustrated, which show that the -style extended to all departments of ecclesiastical structures.</p> - -<h3>ST. ANDREWS CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ancient city of St. Andrews, formerly the ecclesiastical metropolis -of Scotland, is now reduced to a small, but interesting, town, full of -the remains of its former grandeur.</p> - -<p>Situated at the eastern point of Fifeshire, on level ground, raised a -considerable height above the sea, and surrounded with a rocky coast, -there is little in the nature of the site to impress the beholder; but -as seen in approaching from the west, the remains of the ancient -edifices, with their ruined towers standing out against the sky, produce -an impression of departed greatness which accords well with the -venerable and stirring history of the place.</p> - -<p>There are vague traditions of the site having been occupied by an -ancient hermit at a very early period;<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> but St. Andrews was not -recognised as the see of a bishop till about 950, when Cellach, the -first bishop, was appointed. After him there followed ten Culdee -bishops, the last being Fothad, by whom the marriage of Malcolm Canmore -and Queen Margaret was celebrated.</p> - -<p>The dedication of the cathedral to St. Andrew is involved in fable; but -Dr. Skene<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> thinks that the church was founded between 736 and 761, -and that portions of the relics of St. Andrew were brought to the place -at that time, probably, as tradition has it, by Acca, Bishop of -Northumbria, who was banished from that country in 732, and is believed -to have founded a church amongst the Picts. The author of <i>Celtic -Scotland</i> points to the similarity of the events which succeeded one -another in Northumbria and in Southern Pictland in the eighth century. -In the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span> former country the Columban Church was expelled and secular -clergy introduced; the Church of Hexham was dedicated to St. Andrew, and -his relics were received there. In the latter country, sixty years -later, the Picts expelled the Columbans and introduced the secular -clergy, while at the same time they received part of the relics of St. -Andrew, and founded a church in his honour, St. Andrew afterwards -becoming the national patron saint.</p> - -<p>After the death of Fothad, the last Bishop of Alban, in 1093, the see of -St. Andrews remained vacant till 1107, when Turgot, Queen Margaret’s -chaplain and biographer, was appointed to the bishopric.</p> - -<p>In 1158-59, Arnald, Abbot of Kelso, was consecrated Bishop of St. -Andrews. That prelate immediately set about the building of the -cathedral, but he died in 1162, when the work was scarcely begun. The -structure progressed under his successors, and probably the whole, -including the west end, was finished in little more than a century after -its commencement. The original west end, having been blown down by a -tempest of wind, was rebuilt by Bishop William Wiseheart (or Wishart) -between 1272 and 1279. It is usually stated that the cathedral occupied -160 years in building, but it would appear to have been entirely erected -from east to west on the ground it now occupies in about 115 years.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral of St. Andrews was also the conventual church of the -priory of Canons Regular of St. Augustine, which was founded by Bishop -Robert about the year 1120; but of the conventual buildings erected at -that time there are now no remains. The church of St. Regulus, however, -which was probably erected by him, still survives.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> The bishop was, -<i>ex officio</i>, the prior of the monastery.</p> - -<p>The structures erected by the various succeeding bishops and archbishops -are noticed as we proceed.</p> - -<p>In 1559 the cathedral was attacked by the mob and greatly destroyed, and -thereafter became a general quarry for public use. In 1826 the Barons of -Exchequer took possession of the ruins and had the rubbish cleared away, -and what remained of the structure put in good order, the bases of the -piers, where they existed, being brought to light, and the outline of -the ancient buildings marked out in the turf.</p> - -<p>A property adjoining the cathedral having recently been acquired by the -Marquis of Bute, excavations on the site of the priory have been carried -out by him, under the superintendence of Mr. J. Kinross, architect, and -considerable remains of the foundations of the ancient monastic -buildings have been disclosed to view.</p> - -<p>The cathedral, of which the ruins still exist (<a href="#fig_441">Fig. 441</a>), consisted of a -short aisleless presbytery and a choir of five bays with side aisles, -having an eastern chapel in each aisle; north and south transepts, each -of three bays, with eastern aisles; a nave of twelve bays with north and -south aisles;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_441" id="fig_441"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_007.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_007.png" width="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 441.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and a large central tower over the crossing. The interior dimensions of -the edifice were as follow:—Total length, 355 feet; width of nave, 63 -feet; length of transepts, 167 feet 6 inches; width of transepts, 43 -feet 2 inches.</p> - -<p>The older surviving portions show some remains of the transition style, -but the principal parts of the structure have been carried out in the -first pointed style. The remains of the choir piers clearly indicate -that that style has prevailed in the choir, and the beautiful entrance -to the chapter house gives some idea of the boldness and vigour of the -first pointed work which, doubtless, extended throughout the building.</p> - -<p>The cathedral has been very greatly ruined, but some portions have -escaped destruction. Of these the east end wall still stands, but -without its gable, and one half of the west end wall is entire. Besides -these, the south wall of the nave, the west and south walls of the south -transept for a considerable height, portions of other walls and -foundations, and certain of the pillars to a few feet above the bases, -are all that now survive of this once splendid structure. The east end -of the choir, and the south transept and nave as far west as the fourth -bay of the nave, show some lingering traces of the Transition style; and -in portions of the nave, as far as the cloister doorway in the third bay -from the west end, the lower part of the wall half-way up to the window -sills, is of the same period. This is evident from the flat band, -chamfered at top and bottom, which runs along thus far, and is a -characteristic feature of early work.</p> - -<p>The building of the western portion by Wishart is described with -considerable minuteness in the <i>Orygynale Cronykill</i>, by Andrew Wyntown, -who was a canon of the priory. He says (Vol. <small>I.</small>, p. 390):—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Wilyhame Wyschard wes blessyd in Scone.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Sevyn yhere and a half wes he<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Byschape, and gert byggyt be<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Nere all the body of the Kyrke:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Quhare that he begowth to wyrk,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Yhit men may the Taknys se<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Apper and be affinnetè,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Ewyn owth<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> the thryd Pillare<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Frá the Chawnselare Dure<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> sene thare;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Báth wndyre, and owth that south part,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And the north syd swá westwart,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And that west Gáivil alsuá<br /></span> -<span class="i1">In-til hys tyme all gert he má.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And bot of hys Ethchettis<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> hále<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Hys Kyrk he endyd Cathedyrale,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Bath in the Stane, and Thak, and Tre<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The body of hys Kyrk thus he<br /></span> -<span class="i1">In all thyng gert be byggyt welle,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That langyt til it ilke dele.”<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span></div></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_442" id="fig_442"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_009.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_009.png" width="343" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 442.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Original East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span></p> - -<p>Nothing is said about an earlier west end, but the description applies -well to the later upper story of the south wall (see <a href="#fig_448">Fig. 448</a>) and the -lower story of the west end of the nave (see <a href="#fig_450">Fig. 450</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_443" id="fig_443"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_010.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_010.png" width="278" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 443.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. East End: Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The east end wall is not now in its original condition, but enough -remains to show what it was originally. <a href="#fig_442">Fig. 442</a> shows its first -condition when it was divided into three stories, with three windows in -each, similar to those still remaining in the lower story (<a href="#fig_443">Fig. 443</a>). -The windows of the top range had in the interior (<a href="#fig_444">Fig. 444</a>) shoulders at -the springing of the arch similar to those of the windows still standing -in the nave and transept. Nothing remains to show how the apex was -designed. The windows of the two upper stories were almost entirely -abolished during the first half of the fifteenth century, when one large -window was inserted with simple tracery, of which enough remains to -enable the design to be reconstructed (<a href="#fig_445">Fig. 445</a>). The arch of this -window is very slightly pointed, and is indeed semicir<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span>cular in its -inner ring, the object being to get as much extra height as possible -without penetrating into the corbel course of the apex, the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_444" id="fig_444"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_011.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_011.png" width="427" height="568" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 444.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. East End: Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">cornice outside being, however, slightly raised in the centre over the -top of the arch. The jambs and arch springers of the original windows, -which did not require to be removed, have been left to tell the tale of -the original design (see <a href="#fig_443">Figs. 443</a> and <a href="#fig_444">444</a>). We have in this east end an -example of the Norman style of designing a façade by piling story above -story, altered at a later date by the insertion of one large traceried -window, so as to bring the façade into harmony with the later style of -designing similar façades. From the small portions of the north and -south walls still standing, it is evident that the same design as in the -east wall of three stories was continued westwards in the choir. The -upper story consisted of an arcade, having a central light in each bay, -and an arch on each side opening into the passage which ran along the -centre of the wall (see <a href="#fig_444">Fig. 444</a>). On the outside these side openings -were represented by blind arches. Against the north-east corner of the -east wall a high angular buttress has been built (see Plan), having -massive base mouldings of probably fifteenth century work. A similar -buttress is indicated in the plan of the cathedral shown in Lyon’s -<i>History of St. Andrews</i> as having existed at the opposite corner. The -object of these buttresses is not apparent, as the east end wall shows -no sign of weakness, although it has been badly used when the buttresses -were built by having its corner stones pulled out. For the preservation -of the structure the corners, which have been removed, ought to be -replaced, seeing that the east wall now stands quite detached. The blank -wall of the presbytery beneath the lower windows of the east end (see -<a href="#fig_444">Fig. 444</a>) appears to have been ornamented with an arcade, the blocks for -the bases of the shafts being still <i>in situ</i>. The arcade must have been -merely placed against the wall, and not bonded into it in the usual way, -or else there would have been some remains or indications of it.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_445" id="fig_445"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_012.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_012.png" width="170" height="263" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 445.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral.<br /> Window inserted in East -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the foundations of the east wall there can be seen fragments of -ancient sculptured stones, and it has been proposed that these should be -removed; but fortunately, for the preservation of the structure, that -idea has been abandoned.</p> - -<p>The presbytery had a groined vault springing from lofty angle shafts. -The ribs are crossed by a curious horizontal band, at the level where -the vaulting becomes of arched construction. This groining may possibly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span> -have been renewed at the time the alterations were made on the east -wall. The angle buttresses may have been built at the same time, -although, strangely, at the points where they were least required.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_446" id="fig_446"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_013.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_013.png" width="398" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 446.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Section of Piers.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The central aisle of the choir and nave is of the same width as the -presbytery. Several of the piers of the choir still remain to a -considerable height above the base. Their section, and also those of the -nave piers, are shown in Fig. 446. The side aisles were vaulted, as is -indicated by the bases of the vaulting shafts.</p> - -<p>The presbytery floor is two steps up from the choir; the steps still -exist between the two eastmost pillars. To the eastward of these there -are foundations as if of a wall across the church. Adjoining this there -is a large stone slab, measuring about 11 feet 4 inches by 7 feet 8 -inches, with slight square depressions carefully wrought on its surface, -as shown on the Plan. This large slab may have been the covering of a -grave, and the depressions on the surface may have contained brasses. -There is a similar slab in the choir, measuring 10 feet by 5 feet 5½ -inches (see Plan).</p> - -<p>The west wall of the south transept (<a href="#fig_447">Fig. 447</a>) has an intersecting -arcade in the lower story, with three round arched windows above, and -graceful arcading between, resting on corbels having square abaci. -Similar windows are continued along the south wall of the nave for four -bays. Westwards of this the nave windows are pointed, and have very -simple tracery (<a href="#fig_448">Fig. 448</a>); otherwise there is very little difference in -the design of the south wall of the nave throughout its whole length. -The lower part seems to have been built as far west as the third bay -from the west end during the Transition period. The plan of the wall -shows the same flat buttresses with round angle shafts throughout its -whole length, which are indications of early work. <a href="#fig_449">Fig. 449</a> shows the -cap of the angle shafts of the buttresses, and one of the corbels of the -cornice. The springers of the groining of the south aisle still remain -(see <a href="#fig_447">Fig. 447</a>). The groining appears to have been late, and of rather -coarse work. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span> ribs are struck from centres below the level of their -springing. All the bays have wall ribs, except the two east bays, which -rather indicates that the latter bays were not meant at first to be -vaulted. The vaulting</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_447" id="fig_447"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_014.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_014.png" width="441" height="489" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Plan of Angle of Transept and Nave.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 447.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. West Side of Transept and South Side -of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">shafts have all the same section, and are without caps, the ribs dying -into the shafts, except in the case of the two eastmost and the westmost -shaft and the angle one at the west wall, which latter does not come to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span> -the ground. These shafts have large caps, uniting the clustered section -into one. The centre aisle of the nave was not vaulted.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_448" id="fig_448"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_015.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_015.png" width="398" height="564" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Corbel of Cloister Roof, enlarged.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 448.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. West End of Nave and Turret of West -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span></p> - -<p>The south wall of the nave extends considerably westwards beyond the -present west end, and contains the remains of a vaulting shaft in the -position it would naturally have occupied in the spacing of the bays. -This seems to show that the cathedral was originally of greater length -than it now is by at least 34 feet, while it may have extended westwards -an unknown number of bays, each of which would measure 16 feet in width. -The south side of this wall (which is partly built against with modern -erections) shows traces of early arcading. The north wall of the nave -also projects westwards from the present west end for a distance of -about 7 feet. When the original west wall fell, it may have destroyed a -few of the western bays, and this possibly induced Bishop Wishart, when -he rebuilt the west end, to omit these bays, and shorten the cathedral -by so much.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_449" id="fig_449"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_016.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_016.png" width="97" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 449.</span> St. Andrews Cathedral.<br /> - Cap of Angle Shafts of<br /> -Buttresses<br /> and Corbel of Cornice.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is a very puzzling feature in connection with this west front -(<a href="#fig_450">Fig. 450</a>) which has never been satisfactorily explained. On each side -of the doorway there rises a vaulting shaft, a few feet higher than the -level of the capitals of the doorway. A similar shaft will be observed -at the angle of the west front and the south wall. Rising from these -shafts are incomplete ragglets, indicating the form of vaults against -the west façade, thus suggesting that there was a western porch. But -such a feature is quite incompatible with the design of the west end, -for had there been such a porch, it would have cut the arcade above the -doorway in two, which is a most unlikely idea. The vaulting shafts and -arches springing from them are a part of the original design and -construction. The arcade also seems at first sight to be so, hence the -difficulty of reconciling these features with the existence of a western -porch. The marks of the arch rise to the apex in the south aisle, and -the arch head might have been completed without interfering with the -arcade. Over the central door the marks of the arch are carried up only -as far as the string course beneath the first arcade. This fact, -together with the later character of the upper part of the building, -would seem to indicate that there has been a change in the design, and -that the original intention of having a wide porch extending along the -whole of the west end has been departed from after the first story was -built up to the level of the above string course, all above that point -being of later design and execution. The style of the architecture -confirms this view. It may be mentioned that the arcade over the west -door is very similar to that over the “Pends” (see <a href="#fig_456">Fig. 456</a>), which is, -undoubtedly, a late structure. The lower story of the west end, which is -in the first pointed style, would thus appear to be all that remains of -the façade erected by Bishop Wishart; while the upper portion above the -first string course was rebuilt at a later date, as will be explained -further on.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_450" id="fig_450"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_017.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_017.png" width="417" height="581" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 450.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. West Front.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_451" id="fig_451"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_018.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_018.png" width="479" height="662" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Arch Mouldings.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 451.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. North-East Angle of Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span></p> - -<p>The usual east and west doorways open from the nave into the cloisters, -the eastern one (<a href="#fig_451">Fig. 451</a>) being of good transition design. Like all the -openings on the ground level on the cloister side, it was, till -recently, backed up with brick, so as to form a good wall for fruit -trees; but this part of the building has now been opened up under the -instructions of the Marquis of Bute.</p> - -<p>A holy water stoup, in the angle of the transept, adjoins the eastern -door to the cloister, and the corbels which supported the projecting -upper part of the transept wall, and also carried the wall plate of the -cloister roof, are likewise disclosed. A similar stoup exists in the -corresponding position adjoining the cloister door at Melrose. Another -doorway in the south wall, outside the west end, led to the conventual -buildings. A doorway in the south transept aisle (see Plan) led to the -south.</p> - -<p>The chapter house was a room about 26 feet square. It was vaulted with -four central pillars, and was about 15 feet high. The opening to the -chapter house, from the cloisters, consisted of a central doorway with -two side openings. These portions of the building (<a href="#fig_452">Fig. 452</a>) are in the -purest style of early pointed architecture, and, happily, they are in a -fairly complete state of preservation, only the central pillars of the -side openings, which had two lights, being wanting. These are shown as -if restored in Fig. 453. The round caps and bases and the dog-tooth -ornament are distinctive of the style. The round arched doorway on the -north leads from the cloister to the slype. The chapter house appears to -have been built before the middle of the thirteenth century. About a -century later (1298-1328) Bishop Lamberton erected a new chapter house -to the east (as shown on the Plan). Of this extension only the south -wall remains, showing thirteen seats in arched recesses, the eastern -seat being apart from the others. The return of the east wall remains, -together with a portion of a continuous seat. The wall between the old -and new chapter house is very much reduced in height. It contains an -opening in the style of the entrance from the cloister, and has had a -central doorway with side openings. The old chapter house then became -the vestibule to the new one.</p> - -<p>The size of the new chapter house was about 47 feet by 26 feet. It was -groined in two bays, and probably the vault extended from wall to wall -without central pillars.</p> - -<p>Spottiswoode (page 34) says of Bishop Lamberton that he adorned the -chapter house with “curious seats and ceeling,” and Fordun mentions that -Joannes de Gourie, the twelfth prior, died in 1340, and was buried in -“Novo Capitulo.”<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> Winton and Martine also state that on the -completion of this addition to the chapter house, in 1318, the Cathedral -of St. Andrews was dedicated by Bishop Lamberton, assisted by seven -bishops and fifteen abbots, in presence of King Robert the Bruce and a -great assembly of gentlemen. South of the original chapter house are the -remains of what<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_452" id="fig_452"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_020.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_020.png" width="558" height="379" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 452.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Entrance to Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_453" id="fig_453"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_021.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_021.png" width="609" height="393" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 453.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Entrance to Chapter -House. Plan and Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_454" id="fig_454"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_022.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_022.png" width="628" height="424" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 454.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Plan showing Conventual -and other Buildings.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">was probably the fratry. On the upper floor, which formerly existed -above this building and the chapter house, was the dormitory; the wheel -stair leading to it from the south transept still exists in the -south-west angle of the south transept. This dormitory was built by John -Quhite, the seventh prior, between 1236 and 1258, being about the period -to which the building of the original chapter house would, from its -style, be assigned. This prior also built the refectory, which occupied -the south side of the cloister. It was, according to Martine (p. 187), -108 feet long by 28 feet wide, and had, at the east end, “a four square -room for copes and albs, &c., besides the common vestiarie.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_455" id="fig_455"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_023.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_023.png" width="432" height="250" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 455.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Doorways in West Wall -of Fratery.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Plan (<a href="#fig_454">Fig. 454</a>)<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> shows the conventual and other buildings -attached to the cathedral. These have recently been excavated by -instructions of the Marquis of Bute, and are found to correspond with -the above figures given by Martine. Two doorways of first pointed style -in the west wall of the fratry (<a href="#fig_455">Fig. 455</a>) have also been opened up.</p> - -<p>The west side of the cloister was occupied by the sub-prior’s house, -known also as the Senzie house. To the south of it was the Senzie -chamber, which appears to have been enlarged at the beginning of the -sixteenth century into a room 80 feet by 20 feet, in order to form the -library of the adjoining College of St. Leonards. The extending of this -room blocked up the west windows of the refectory, and, doubtless, the -existing arched cellars shown on the Plan were beneath this chamber.</p> - -<p>The building seen on the Plan to the south-east of the chapter house -seems, from Martine’s description, to be part of the remains of the -prio<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span>r’s house, called also the Hospitium Vetus, or the Old Inn. It was -a large building, occupying the ground to the east of the fratry, and -was sometimes the residence of the bishop.</p> - -<p>To the west of the cathedral are the stately remains of the entrance -gateway, called the “Pends” (<a href="#fig_456">Fig. 456</a>). Only the shell of the building -now remains, with the springers of the groined vaulting. It measures -about 80 feet in length by 23 feet in width.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_456" id="fig_456"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_024.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_024.png" width="463" height="387" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 456.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Entrance to the “Pends” -or Gatehouse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In continuation of the “Pends” is the enclosing wall of the priory -grounds. This is a very extensive structure (<a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>), still in good -preservation. It is about 22 feet high and 4 feet thick. As will be seen -from the Plan, it circles round till it reaches the north-east corner of -the cathedral, at which point it is seen in the view (see <a href="#fig_444">Fig. 444</a>). The -length of the wall is about 1150 yards. In Martine’s time it contained -sixteen towers; at present thirteen are partly standing. There is a wide -gate in the wall to the south (<a href="#fig_458">Fig. 458</a>) defended by towers (see <span class="lettre">S</span>, -<a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>). It is the common “entrie for carts with the teynd sheaves of the -prior aikers.” Close to it stood the “teynd barne and teynd yaird.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span>”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_457" id="fig_457"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_025.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_025.png" width="478" height="488" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:75%;"> -<tr><td class="rt">A.</td><td align="left">Cathedral.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">B.</td><td align="left">St. Regulus.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">C.</td><td align="left">Kirkheugh.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">D.</td><td align="left">Prior’s Lodging, or Hospitium Vetus.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">E.</td><td align="left">Cloisters.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">F.</td><td align="left">Manse.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">G.</td><td align="left">Entrance to Abbey from Street.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">H.</td><td align="left">St. Leonards Church.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">J.</td><td align="left">St. Leonards College.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">K.</td><td align="left">Site of New Inn.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">L.</td><td align="left">Tiend Barn.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">M.</td><td align="left">Mill Race.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">N.</td><td align="left">Mill Dam.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">O. O.</td><td align="left">Mill Sluice.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">P.</td><td align="left">Abbey Mill.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">Q.</td><td align="left">Holy Well.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">R.</td><td align="left">Harbour Gate.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">S.</td><td align="left">Gate to Cornfields.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">T.</td><td align="left">Dovecot and Tower.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 457.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Plan showing Enclosing Wall of Priory -Grounds.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span> The gate in the east wall (see <span class="lettre">R</span>, <a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>), which is close -to the harbour, and is called the Harbour Gate, is shown in Fig. 459. -This wall was built by Prior Hepburn, whose arms are to be seen on -several of the towers, and one bears the date of 1520.</p> - -<p>Martine informs us that amongst the other buildings scattered throughout -the grounds were the following (most of which are shown in <a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>), -viz.:—</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">The Guest House</span>, within the precinct of St. Leonard’s College. It -was built by John White, seventh prior, about the middle of the -thirteenth century. Part of the wall is believed to be still -standing.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">The New Inn.</span> “It is thought this was the last building about the -abbacie before the Reformation,” and to have been built as a -retreat for Magdalene, Queen of James <small>V.</small>, who, however, did not -live to visit it, as she died in 1537. Only the entrance gateway of -this building now remains. It contains the Scottish arms and the -arms of Prior Hepburn. The New Inn was afterwards the occasional -residence of the archbishop.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_458" id="fig_458"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_026.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_026.png" width="448" height="269" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 458.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Enclosing Wall, -with Gateway and Towers.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">The Granary</span> stood to the north-east of the New Inn. Part of the -east side wall is thought to be still standing, and on the east -side of this is the monastery well, shown on the Plan.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">The Abbey Mill</span>, with the mill dam and mill lead, sluices, &c., are -shown on the Plan (<a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>), and are still in use.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">The Tiend Barn</span> still stands in the neighbourhood of the mill, and -is still utilised.</p> - -<p>Numerous other buildings are mentioned by Martine, such as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span> Brew -House (which stood near the mill), the Malt House, Bear Girnell, -Promptwarium, Hortus Gladiatorius, Barnsdeall-Yaird, &c., of which no -remains survived in his time.</p> - -<p>Besides these buildings directly connected with the priory and cathedral -there still exists, opposite the west end of the latter, the manse of -the archdeacon, “commonlie called the archdeacon’s inns.”<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_459" id="fig_459"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_027.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_027.png" width="458" height="320" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 459.</span>—St. Andrews Cathedral. Priory. Harbour Gate.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Among other bishops who were builders of portions of the cathedral, not -already mentioned, was William Malvoisine (1202-33). According to -Spottiswoode, he “advanced the fabrick (which was then a-building) more -than any that went before him.” It is probable that part of the nave -(most of which Winton credits to Wishart) may have been built by him.</p> - -<p>In the time of Bishop William de Landel (1341-85), in the year 1378, the -cathedral suffered considerably from fire. The bishop and the prior, -Stephen de Pay, repaired the damage. According to Winton they renewed -all the woodwork of the roof of the transepts, choir, and aisles with -“aiken werk of Tre,” and covered them with “Thak of Lide.” The two -pillars in the north and south transepts appear to have been so much -damaged that they had to be entirely renewed, the wall above having to -be supported. According to Winton<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span>—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Twa pillaris new on ilka syde<br /></span> -<span class="i1">In that Corskyrk war made that tyde,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">As yhe may se thaim apperand<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Undyre the auld werk yhit standand.” (B. ix.)<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The pillars are gone, only the foundations of the two south ones -remaining; but it is interesting to observe on the spot that the respond -still standing against the south transept wall is of the style one would -expect to find in work of the fourteenth century. Winton further says -that at the same time “a quartare of the stepil of stane wes made,” -which probably means that the central tower was raised, but not the -spire.</p> - -<p>According to Winton,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> the fire destroyed the south half of the nave, -from the west end eastwards to, and including, the ninth pillar. As -these nine pillars were renewed, with the help of certain lords whose -arms were carved on them, possibly, as in the case of the transepts, the -wall and roof above were supported during this operation.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Lytil overe sevyn (7) years their gert wyrk<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And mak all this werk of the kyrk.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>From the <i>Exchequer Rolls</i><a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> of 1381-84, we find that the Crown -contributed to the rebuilding of the cathedral at this time. Perhaps the -upper portion of the west front above referred to was rebuilt at this -period. Although the work is much decayed, its character would lead to -that belief. The restoration begun by Bishop Landel was completed by -Bishop Wardlaw (1404-40). He improved the interior by the introduction -of fine pavements in the choir, transept, and nave. He also filled the -windows with stained glass.</p> - -<p>Of the minor works of the cathedral almost nothing remains. There are a -few flat tombstones with inscriptions<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> still legible, but of the -tombs of Bishops Gameline, Lamberton, and Walter Trail not a vestige is -left. Winton, who saw these tombs, the last having been built in his own -time, thus refers to them in describing the death of Lamberton.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“ ... In the north half of the new kyrke-<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Cathedral, an arch he gert men wyrke,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Now seen betwene Tombis twa,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of Gamyle the eastmast is of tha.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And, in a space that was levyd (raised),<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Be-twene the Pulpyte and his Hevyd (head).<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Ane Arche of fayre werk and of fyne<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The Byschape Waltyr gert make syne.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Under that tomb now lyis he.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Thus lyand ar thai Byshapys thre<br /></span> -<span class="i1">On the north half of the Hey Kyrk (High Kirk)<br /></span> -<span class="i1">In Tombys that themselves gert Wyrk.”—(B. <small>VIII.</small>, cxxiii.)<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>On the north side of the nave, near the west end, there still remains<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span> a -built tomb, empty and desecrated, with slight indications of what was a -stately monument in the wall. Of seventeenth century flat stones a large -collection is gathered and preserved in the chapter house. <a href="#fig_452">Fig. 452</a> -shows one of these. Against the north wall of the nave, on the outside, -there are three square foundations (see Plan). Two of these may possibly -be the foundations of a porch.</p> - -<p>The cathedral was in a very ruinous state when Martine wrote (1685). -Apparently the north half of the west gable fell in his time, and, -considering the sudden wrench to the structure caused by this -catastrophe, had the remaining half not been a good piece of masonry, it -might easily have followed.</p> - -<p>Fifty years before Martine wrote, when Spottiswoode was archbishop, in -1635, the restoration of the cathedral was provided for. The rents and -fruits of the benefice, except a small sum reserved for the archbishop, -were to be applied for “building and repairing the cathedrall,” until -the same “be perfected and finisht.” “And the church being finished then -and no sooner,” the archbishop and his successors were to have the full -privilege of the use of the rents, but subject to the upholding of the -fabric. The structure would thus appear not to have been in a very -ruinous state at that time. Nothing appears, however, to have been done, -and the work of destruction was continued, and soon reduced the church -to nearly its present condition.</p> - -<h3>ST. MARY’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Kirkheugh, St. Andrews</span>.</h3> - -<p>This church is situated between the cathedral wall on the north-east and -the sea (see <span class="lettre">C</span>, <a href="#fig_457">Fig. 457</a>). It was entirely lost sight of till the year -1860, when the foundations were exposed. Little else remains except the -foundations. The east wall rises about 3 feet above the ground, and the -other walls run from nearly level with the surface to about 2 feet in -height. The structure (<a href="#fig_460">Fig. 460</a>) consisted of a nave, transepts, and -chancel. The nave and chancel do not coincide in their orientation. -There was probably a low central tower supported on four arches, with a -stair to the tower at the north-west corner, where the foundation of -what appears to have been the stair turret is traceable. The remains of -a bench are visible in the north transept. The chancel is the best -preserved portion, and is of the first pointed period. It has a base all -round, including the buttresses, of which those at the north-east corner -have disappeared. There has been a narrow splayed doorway on the north -side. A projecting piece of masonry in the south wall may have been a -sedilia. A large square of masonry, 11 feet by 4 feet 4 inches, at the -east end suggests the position of an altar. There is an early slab in -the chancel, carved with a cross, set on steps, and a sword beside it. -Another monument, of a hog-backed type, lies to the north of the nave. -The existence of other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span> stones at further distances indicate this as the -position of an ancient cemetery. The masonry of the chancel is finer -than that of the nave and transept, but which is the earlier it is not -possible to say with any confidence.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_460" id="fig_460"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_030.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_030.png" width="406" height="189" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 460.</span>—St. Mary’s Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The history of this chapel, with a descriptive account, will be found in -the <i>Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries</i>, Session 1860-61, Vol. -<small>IV.</small> p. 82. The internal dimensions of the chapel are:—Length of nave, -27 feet; width, 18 feet 11 inches. Length of chancel, 46 feet 8½ inches; -width, 20 feet 2 inches. Total length inside, 97 feet 11½ inches; -outside, 105 feet.</p> - -<h3>ARBROATH ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Forfarshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ancient town of Arbroath stands on the east coast of Forfarshire, -and the massive ruins of its great abbey, as seen from the sea, rising -above the houses of the town, present an image of decay and desolation.</p> - -<p>The abbey was founded by King William the Lion towards the end of the -twelfth century. It was richly endowed, and soon became one of the -wealthiest and most powerful monasteries in the kingdom. The inmates -were of the Tironensian order, and the first monks were brought to -Arbroath from Kelso Abbey.</p> - -<p>King William, having been taken prisoner at Alnwick in 1174, was -confined at Falaise, in Normandy, but regained his liberty, and returned -to Scotland, in 1176. Immediately on his return he proceeded to found -the Abbey of Arbroath, which he dedicated to Saint Mary and St. Thomas à -Becket. The latter had been murdered at Canterbury only four years -before, and it is doubtful whether King William was attached to his -memory by personal friendship or by sympathy with the saint in his -opposition to the King of England.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span></p> - -<p>By the year 1178 part of the church was ready for dedication. William -the Lion died in 1214, and was buried in the east end of the edifice, -which was then finished. Shortly afterwards the south transept was -sufficiently well advanced to admit of the burial within it, before the -altar of St. Catherine, of Gilchrist, Earl of Angus. On the 18th of -March 1233, during the time of Abbot Ralph de Lamley, the church was -dedicated. The time occupied in the erection and completion of the -structure was thus a little over fifty-five years, and when its -dimensions are considered, it will be found in comparison with other -churches to have been carried on with great rapidity.</p> - -<p>The above dates are useful as indicating the progress of the transition -and pointed styles in Scotland. The choir and transept, although still -retaining a few reminiscences of the transition in the round arches -interspersed among the pointed arches, are essentially first pointed in -style. The retention of the round arch here, as elsewhere in Scotland, -is a common feature throughout the whole course of Gothic art. In the -west doorway, and also in the gallery over it, there are distinct -elements of transition work; but the external and internal windows of -the gallery, and the main features of the towers, are decidedly first -pointed in style. Possibly the west doorway and gallery were begun at an -early stage of the building, and the west end, after being stopped for a -time, was completed at a later date.</p> - -<p>As showing the eagerness with which King William pushed on the -buildings, Hollinshed mentions<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> that “the king came by the Abbey of -Aberbrothoc to view the work of that house, how it went forward, -commanding them that were overseers and masters of the works to spare -for no cost, but to bring it up to perfection, and that with -magnificence.”</p> - -<p>The abbey church (<a href="#fig_461">Fig. 461</a>) consisted of a choir of three bays, with -side aisles and an aisleless presbytery; a nave of nine bays, with -aisles and north and south transepts, with eastern aisles. There were -two western towers, and one large tower over the crossing.</p> - -<p>The following are the principal dimensions of the edifice:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Length (external measurement from east to west, not including -buttresses), 293 feet.</p> - -<p>Breadth (external measurement from north to south, not including -buttresses), 74 feet.</p> - -<p>Length of transept (external measurement from north to south, not -including buttresses), 147 feet.</p> - -<p>Width of transept over walls (external measurement from east to -west, not including buttresses), 54 feet.</p></div> - -<p>Considerable portions of these different divisions of the edifice still -remain, but the greater part of the north side of the choir, the north -transept and nave, and almost all the piers and pillars have been swept<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_461" id="fig_461"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_032.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_032.png" width="676" height="348" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 461.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_462" id="fig_462"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_033.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_033.png" width="469" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 462.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Interior of East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">away. Beginning at the east end, the eastern wall (<a href="#fig_462">Fig. 462</a>) is entire -for nearly half its height, having an arcade below, and three lancet -windows above, with the lower portions of an upper row of similar -windows. Somewhat less of the return wall of the south side of the -presbytery, which comprises two bays, remains, and adjoining it is the -sacristy (<a href="#fig_463">Fig. 463</a>), a late building in a fair state of preservation. -The end wall of the south transept is almost complete, together with a -considerable portion of the west wall of the transept (<a href="#fig_464">Fig. 464</a>.) This, -being the best preserved portion of the structure, gives a good idea of -the grandeur of the church. The whole of the south wall of the nave -remains, showing a row of windows and indications of the groining of the -aisle (<a href="#fig_465">Fig. 465</a>). The main or centre aisle was not vaulted, but covered -with a wooden roof. Most of the bases of the pillars of the nave<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_463" id="fig_463"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_034.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_034.png" width="652" height="399" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 463.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. View from South-East. (From a -Drawing by the late Mr. Michie, artist.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_464" id="fig_464"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_035.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_035.png" width="452" height="491" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 464.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. South Transept and Sacristy.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">are in position, as are also the foundations of the north transept. The -fragment of the west end with the two towers left standing (<a href="#fig_466">Fig. 466</a>) is -very striking, and impresses one with the sense of bold, vigorous work -rather than of refinement of detail, although there is also a mixture of -both, of which the west doorway (<a href="#fig_467">Fig. 467</a>) is an example. It is round -arched, and its outer order, if it may be so called, extends inwards for -about five feet, unadorned as a bold and plain tunnel arch, having a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_465" id="fig_465"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_036.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_036.png" width="425" height="551" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 465.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Interior of Nave and South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">pointed arch in each ingoing. It then becomes shafted and richly -moulded, after the transition manner. This arrangement, while it gives a -fine shadow under the arch, has a feeling of rudeness, which, to a -consider<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span>able extent, characterises the whole west front. There is a -remarkable resemblance in the decoration of this doorway to that of the -doorway in the porch of Lerida Cathedral, Spain, supposing the tunnel -arch of Arbroath away, and the moulded part brought forward to the face -of the wall (<a href="#fig_468">Fig. 468</a>), as is the case at Lerida (<a href="#fig_469">Fig. 469</a>.) In both -instances the outer enrichment of the zig-zag ornament is separated by a -few mouldings from a large bead enriched at regular intervals by a ring</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_466" id="fig_466"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_037.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_037.png" width="445" height="377" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 466.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. West End of Church and -North-West Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">round the bead. The inner mouldings at Lerida are further enriched, -while at Arbroath the orders are simply moulded; but the sequence of the -first two orders of enrichment is interesting from its occurring in two -buildings probably erected at about the same time and at such a great -distance apart. A similar ring ornament, on a large scale, is also to be -seen in a doorway at Lamington, Lanarkshire,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> where it is likewise -used along with the zig-zag, but there the ringed order is the outer -enrichment.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_467" id="fig_467"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_038.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_038.png" width="421" height="561" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 467.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. West Doorway and Gallery -over.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The rude appearance of the west front, to which we have referred, is -increased by the removal of the outer part of a gallery which existed -over this doorway. The inner part of this gallery still remains, and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_468" id="fig_468"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_039.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_039.png" width="436" height="308" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 468.</span>—Arbroath Abbey.</p> - -<p>Jamb and Arch Mouldings of West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_469" id="fig_469"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_040.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_040.png" width="431" height="601" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 469.</span>—Larida Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Doorway of Porch.</p> - -<p>(From Street’s <i>Spain</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">view and plan of it are given (<a href="#fig_470">Figs. 470</a> and <a href="#fig_471">471</a>). From these it will be -seen that within the great thickness of the wall (20 feet 3 inches) a -chamber of considerable size has been obtained, which opens into the -nave by six pointed arches (<a href="#fig_472">Fig. 472</a>), and to the outside over the -doorway by three arches (see <a href="#fig_467">Fig. 467</a>). As already stated, the original -outer features are gone, and only the rugged skeleton remains. It is -quite obvious from <a href="#fig_467">Fig. 467</a> and from the Plan (see <a href="#fig_471">Fig. 471</a>) that three -gablets projected outwards from the wall for a distance of about 4 feet, -supported on two intermediate shafts (marked <span class="lettre">X X</span>), and that the gallery -was closed in at each end with walls or haffits, both of which still in -part remain. It is thus apparent that we now see the west front robbed -of its most unique features, and the bare masonry exposed, which was -never meant to be seen. This gallery was reached by a long passage at -each end from stairs in the angle buttresses. It probably was a gallery -for an orchestra, and it would also be suitable as a pulpit from which -to address an audience in the open air. As above mentioned, it is -probable that this part of the building was erected at two different -times, the west doorway and some of the pillars of the gallery being in -the early transition style, while the triple windows to the front and -the six-light<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_470" id="fig_470"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_040.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_040.png" width="431" height="601" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 470.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Gallery over West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">arcade towards the interior are in the first pointed style. When the -gallery was completed in the first pointed period, the floor space was -enlarged by extending it to the front, hence the necessity for the deep -tunnel arch over the west doorway. The pointed arches in the ingoing -also indicate the first pointed period.</p> - -<p>Above this gallery there was an immense circular window, of which only a -portion survives.</p> - -<p>The western towers opened with arches into the north and south and -central aisles (see <a href="#fig_472">Fig. 472</a>), but only the north tower retains its -massive pier and arches. Of the south tower nothing but the foundation -of the pier exists.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_471" id="fig_471"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_041.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_041.png" width="305" height="156" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 471.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Plan of Gallery over West -Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The south wall of the transept (see <a href="#fig_464">Fig. 464</a>) is comparatively plain on -the outside, merely the upper part being visible above the dormitory -roof. The façade presents two plain lancet windows, one very much -shorter than the other to admit of the before-mentioned roof, and above -the lancets a large wheel window occupies the gable. The interior of the -transept (<a href="#fig_473">Fig. 473</a>) is a very grand design in the early pointed style. -The lancets are splayed to a great width in the interior with banded -nook shafts on the sconsions, and arched above in the simplest manner -without any mouldings. Beneath the lancets there is a round arched open -arcade having a passage behind it, and beneath this two tiers of wall -arcades with pointed arches, the central arcade being very acutely -pointed, and the lower one not so decidedly pointed, and with trefoil -cusps in the arches. A staircase in the south-east angle of the transept -gave access to the dormitory by the door which is seen built up on the -outside (see <a href="#fig_464">Fig. 464</a>). This staircase also leads to the various -passages in the thickness of the walls shown in Fig. 473. The doorway -leading from the church to this stair (<a href="#fig_474">Fig. 474</a>) ranges with the lower -pointed arcade, and is round arched. The west return wall of the -transept is very bold and grand, as seen from the interior (see -<a href="#fig_473">Fig. 473</a>). The lower arcade of the south end is continued along the west -wall, and above this two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_472" id="fig_472"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_042.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_042.png" width="415" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 472.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Interior of West End.</p> - -<p>(From a Sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson, Dundee.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">windows widely splayed, and having nook shafts on the sconsions, rise to -a great height and are finished with moulded circular arches in the -interior and pointed lancets in the exterior. All the lofty windows in -the south transept have passages on two floors. The upper passage -running along this wall must have been connected with some kind of -bridge thrown across the windows. There are indications of rests for -beams doubtless connected with this arrangement, which would probably<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_473" id="fig_473"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_043.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_043.png" width="422" height="548" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 473.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Interior of South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">be of a temporary nature. The transepts had chapels on the east side. -The respond of the great arcade against the south wall (see <a href="#fig_474">Fig. 474</a>) is -beautiful in detail. Above this there exist fragments of the responds -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_474" id="fig_474"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_044.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_044.png" height="642" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 474.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. South-East Angle of South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the triforium story and the clerestory. All the above features of this -part of the abbey point plainly to its having some lingering remains of -transition style, retaining as it does some round arches along with the -general pointed features of the design.</p> - -<p>The sacristy or vestry was built by Abbot Walter Paniter between 1411 -and 1433. It is a two story building, the ground floor having a groined -ceiling still entire, but the upper room being roofless. Externally, -this structure is severe and simple in style (see <a href="#fig_463">Fig. 463</a>), while in -the interior there is considerable richness of ornament, with details of -a somewhat rude kind. It contains many features which identify it as -work of the fifteenth century, such, for example, as the caps of the -shafts of the doorway (<a href="#fig_475">Fig. 475</a>). The sacristy is in a good state of -preservation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_475" id="fig_475"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_045.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_045.png" width="289" height="269" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 475.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Caps of Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Of the conventual buildings only fragments now remain. An octagonal -turret (see <a href="#fig_461">Fig. 461</a>) marks the south-east corner of the chapter house -with the south and east return walls, and adjoining the south transept -is the slype, the walls of which determine the other walls of the -chapter house. On the wall of the south transept is clearly seen the -mark of the dormitory roof, with the door between the church and -dormitory now built up.</p> - -<p>A range of erections, and a lofty wall which formed the northern -enclosure of the abbey precincts (<a href="#fig_476">Fig. 476</a>), extend westwards from the -church, in a line with the south aisle, for a distance of about 190 -feet. This north wall, and a portion of the west wall proceeding -southward from it, are all that remain of the extensive enclosure of the -abbey, which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_476" id="fig_476"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_046.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_046.png" width="418" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 476.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. North Enclosing Wall and -Gateway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">said to have been of great height, and to have extended 1150 feet on the -east and west, 760 feet on the north, and 480 feet on the south. There -were great towers at the angles and entrance gateways on the north, and -at the south-east angle. In the centre of the existing north wall is the -portcullis entrance gatehouse, which is about 24 feet wide, with a -vaulted enclosure about 65 feet long. The front wall (<a href="#fig_477">Fig. 477</a>) is -almost entire, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_477" id="fig_477"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_047.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_047.png" width="435" height="665" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 477.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Front of North Gatehouse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the upper floor window is crossed by the corbels which carried the -movable wooden hoarding which was erected over the gateway when required -for its defence. The side walls are entire, and show remains of the -groined roof and strong gates for defence. The roof and gates were -destroyed by the Town Council in 1800. At the western extremity of the -north enclosing wall (see <a href="#fig_466">Figs. 466</a> and <a href="#fig_476">476</a>) there exists a large square -tower, three stories in height, in the inside, but four stories on the -outside, owing to the fall of the ground. The two lower floors are round -vaulted, the upper vault having ribs, with a door of access from the -precinct secured with a sliding bar. The upper floors (see <a href="#fig_461">Fig. 461</a>), -which were living apartments, were reached by a high door, and only -communicated with the floors below by means of a trap, as in the case of -many of the pele towers. The two upper floors, which contained -fireplaces and windows with stone seats, are connected with a wheel -stair in the north-west corner. The cape house on top is said to have -been removed during this century. This tower formed the north-west -corner of the abbey precinct.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_478" id="fig_478"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_048.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_048.png" width="446" height="323" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 478.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Abbot’s House from North-East.</p> - -<p>(From a Sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The building adjoining the tower to the east was called the Regality -Court-house. It entered from the street, and was about 40 feet long by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span> -18 feet wide, and had a groined ceiling. The next apartment running up -to the gateway entered from the precinct. It was about 28 feet long, and -had a barrel vault, with massive splayed ribs similar to those of the -tower. The range of buildings between the gateway and the church are of -two stories, the lower story having a groined ceiling.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_479" id="fig_479"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_049.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_049.png" width="437" height="419" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 479.</span>—Arbroath Abbey. Abbot’s House from South-West.</p> - -<p>(From a Drawing by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>One of the most interesting and best preserved buildings is the abbot’s -house on the south side of the cloister (see <a href="#fig_461">Fig. 461</a>). It is three -stories high, the two upper floors being converted into a modern private -dwelling-house (<a href="#fig_478">Figs. 478</a> and <a href="#fig_479">479</a>). Having been used at one time as a -thread manufactory, the house has been altered externally and spoiled of -its ancient internal fittings, with the exception of two fine carved -panels, one representing the Virgin (<a href="#fig_480">Fig. 480</a>), and the other a large<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span> -Scotch thistle (<a href="#fig_481">Fig. 481</a>). The ground floor contains the kitchen—a fine -apartment with central pillars supporting a groined roof—with a large -arched fireplace in the west end. The other offices connected with the -kitchen are all vaulted. The house is extremely picturesque and -valuable, being the best preserved abbot’s house in Scotland.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_480" id="fig_480"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_050.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_050.png" width="239" height="550" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 480.</span>—Arbroath Abbey.</p> - -<p>Carved Panel in Abbot’s House.</p> - -<p>(From a Drawing by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>During the 350 years of the existence of Arbroath Abbey many events -happened entailing changes in the buildings. Thus, in 1272, a great fire -occurred in the town, in which the abbey suffered. In particular the -north-west tower is supposed to have been partly wrecked, and to have -been rebuilt and carried to a greater height than formerly, or, at -least, higher than the other tower. Again, in 1350, a grant was made by -William, Bishop of St. Andrews, to enable the repairs to be completed of -the “almost irreparable injuries” the abbey had suffered “from the -frequent assaults of the English shipping.”<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> In 1380 the church was -again injured by fire. So serious was this conflagration that the monks -had to be distributed among other religious houses till the roofs of the -choir, nave, and transepts were repaired. In connection with the repairs -there is preserved in the Chartulary an interesting contract between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_481" id="fig_481"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_051.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_051.png" width="288" height="528" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig.</span> 481.—Arbroath Abbey. Carved Panel in Abbot’s House.</p> - -<p>(From a Drawing by Mr. T. S. Robertson.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Abbot John Gedy and William of Tweddale, plumber, which is as follows:—</p> - -<p>“This endentur beris wytnes that the yer of grace <small>MCCCXCIIII.</small> (1394-5), -the xvi. day of the moneth of Feveryer, this <i>cunnande</i> (covenant) was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span> -made betwene Johnne, abbot of Aberbrothoe, of the ta part, and Wilyam -Plumer of Tweddale, burges of the cite of Andirstoun (St Andrews), of -the tothir part; that is to say, that Wilyam Plumer sal theke the mekil -quer wyth lede, and guttyr yt al abowt sufficiandly wyth lede, for the -quhilkis thekyn and gutteryn the abbot sal pay till him xxxv. marcis at -syndry termys, as he is wyrkand; and of the xxxv. marcis, v. marcis sal -dwel style in the abbotis hand quhillys the quer be thekyt and <i>alurryt</i> -(battlemented) al abowyt with stane, and quhen it is allurryt about with -stane he sal dycht it abowt wyth lede sufficiandly, as his craft askys; -and quhen he has endyt that werk he sal be payt of v. marcis and a gown -with a hude till his reuarde. Quhilk Wilyam Plumer sal fynd a man on his -awn cost, and the abbot and convent a man alsua of thar cost quhil the -werk be fullyly endyt. The abbot and the convent sall fynd al maner of -gratht that pertenys to that werk quhil is wyrkande. Willam sal haf -alsua for ilk stane fynyne that he fynys of lede iijd. (3 pennies), and -a stane of ilk hynder that he fynys til his travel, and that day that he -wyrkis he sal haf a penny till his <i>noynsankys</i> (luncheon).” The -indenture was then cut into two parts, and one half given to each of the -parties, after receiving the seal of the other party.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> About fifteen -months after the work was finished William granted a receipt to the -abbot for £20 sterling, paid to him for the <i>architectura magni chori</i>, -and in full of all his claims for purifying or fining the lead, for his -<i>nonesankys</i>, and the gown with the hood, as specified in the indenture.</p> - -<p>In 1470, and for a few years after, there were extensive repairs made, -especially in connection with the roofs and other woodwork of the -monastic buildings, and mention is made of the “building of our -dormitory of new.”</p> - -<p>The structures of the abbey do not appear to have suffered at the hands -of the Reformers, but the revenues having become the property of the -Hamiltons, and being probably appropriated to their private use, there -were no funds to keep up the buildings, and hence they gradually fell -into decay, and were freely used by the magistrates and towns people as -a quarry. In 1580 the Duke of Lennox, Esme Stuart d’Aubigne, gave a -grant to the Town Council,<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> to “tak away all and hail ye stainis, -tymmer, and other pertinents of our house, ye dormitory in ye said -Abbey.” This was for the purpose of supplying materials “for biggyn of -ane kirk.” That work does not appear<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> to have been accomplished till -ten years later, up to which time service was conducted in the lady -chapel, “stripped of its altars and images.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span>”</p> - -<h3>HOLYROOD ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>.</h3> - -<p>The traditional story connected with the foundation and name of this -monastery is well known—viz., that a rood or cross miraculously passed -into the hands of King David <small>I.</small>, and thus saved his life when attacked -by a stag in hunting, in commemoration of which he erected an abbey to -the Holy Rood. The abbey was founded by David <small>I.</small>, and richly endowed -early in the twelfth century, and building is said to have commenced in -1128. The house was colonised by Canons Regular of the Order of St. -Augustine, brought from St. Andrews. Being so near the capital, the -abbey became a favourite place of sojourn of the kings of Scotland, -especially after the accession of the Stewarts to the throne. Robert -<small>III.</small> and James <small>I.</small> lived in the abbey. James <small>II.</small> was born and resided -there, and was buried in the church. James <small>III.</small> and James <small>IV.</small> stayed -much at Holyrood, and the latter began the erection of a palace attached -to, but distinct from, the monastery. The palace was extended by James -<small>V.</small>, and formed the chief scene of many of the incidents in Queen Mary’s -reign.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a></p> - -<p>The abbey church was a structure of great size and of beautiful -architecture. It consisted of the usual divisions, having nave, choir, -and transepts, with aisles and probably a lady chapel to the east, two -western towers, and a tower over the crossing. But of all that splendid -structure there now only remain the ruins of the nave and one western -tower. The abbey and palace were frequently attacked and burnt by the -English, particularly under Hertford in 1544, and the abbey was again -destroyed by Somerset in 1547. At the latter date the monks had left the -abbey, and the invaders stripped the lead off the roofs of the -buildings. These “visitations” seem to have led to the serious injury of -the choir; but the choir and transept do not appear to have been -completely ruined till after 1569. At that date, Adam, Bishop of Orkney -and Commendator of Holyrood, stated to the General Assembly that “the -Abbay Church of Halyrud house hath been these 20 years bygane ruinous, -through decay of two principall pillars, so that none were assured under -it ... he purposed to provide the means that the superfluous ruinous -parts to wit the Queir and Croce Kirk might be disponed to faithfull men -to repair the remanent sufficiently.”<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> The bishop’s proposal was -apparently carried out, and the materials of the choir and transept were -demolished and sold “to provide funds for converting the nave into the -Parish Kirk of the Canongate.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span></p> - -<p>The two pillars referred to by the bishop as unsafe were probably the -east pillars of the crossing, which are now removed, but the two west -pillars still stand. They form the east end of the existing nave. Sir D. -Wilson believes that, when the choir was taken down, the vault which -contained the remains of the kings and queens of Scotland was built in -the south-east angle of the nave, and their coffins transferred into it.</p> - -<p>Holyrood Palace was the principal residence in Scotland of James <small>VI.</small> and -Charles <small>I.</small> The latter took considerable interest in the church, and -wished to restore it as the chapel royal. He had the west end -re-edified, as the style of the architecture of the upper portion and -the inscriptions thereon bear witness.</p> - -<p>James <small>VII.</small> of Scotland (while Duke of York) lived for a considerable -time in the palace, and had a wish to restore the church and make it the -place of meeting of the Knights of St. Andrew. But his operations were -disapproved of by the populace, and all the fittings were destroyed by -the mob in 1688. The tombs of the royal family were, at the same time, -desecrated, and the remains scattered over the pavement. After the -middle of the eighteenth century an attempt was made to restore the -nave, and the roof was covered with heavy stone flags. But the materials -employed were too heavy for the old walls, and the new roof fell in -1768, drawing down with it the whole of the vaulting and clerestory. At -the same time, the tombs of the kings were again pillaged, and Captain -Grose describes having seen some of the remains exposed and defiled by -the populace.</p> - -<p>The nave (<a href="#fig_482">Fig. 482</a>), which now alone survives in a ruinous state, -consists of eight bays, the main piers of which are complete on the -south side, but are only represented by two fragments on the north side. -The vaulting of the south aisle also survives, but that of the north -aisle is gone. The north wall of the aisle, however, still stands, and -the east and west ends of the nave are restored. The north-west tower is -still preserved, but its companion tower, which formerly stood at the -south-west angle, was demolished when the palace was rebuilt in the -seventeenth century. Some remains of the cloister are still observable -on the south side of the nave.</p> - -<p>The chief part of the architecture is of the first pointed period; but -at the south-east angle, the doorway (<a href="#fig_483">Fig. 483</a>), which led from the -cloister into the nave, is of genuine, though late, Norman architecture. -The doorway had a nook shaft on each side, the divided cushion caps of -which survive. The arch is round, and contains two orders, both -ornamented with varieties of zigzags. These orders are enclosed with a -label, containing a double row of square facets and sinkings. Some -alterations have taken place in the building adjoining the doorway. On -the west side of it runs the wall of the south aisle, the roof of which -rested on a ledge at some height above the doorway. Under this ledge are -the windows of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_482" id="fig_482"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_055.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_055.png" width="397" height="632" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 482.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_483" id="fig_483"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_056.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_056.png" width="419" height="557" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 483.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. South-East Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the south aisle. Two of these windows, that over the doorway and the one -to the west of it, are circular headed, and have a Norman character in -their nook shafts and cushion caps. These windows are, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_484" id="fig_484"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_057.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_057.png" width="416" height="547" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 484.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. North Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">restorations, probably constructed in imitation of Norman windows which -existed there originally. It will be observed that the inner order of -the arch contains two reprises wrought on the stone, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span> were -evidently the ends of two simple pieces of tracery springing from a -central mullion. This form of design shows that the construction was -undoubtedly of a late period. Besides, the sconsions of these windows -are wrought with an obtuse nook containing a shaft, so as to correspond -with the other first pointed windows of the south aisle. It is not -improbable that the choir was built before the nave, and was of Norman -work. This supposition may account for the Norman work found in the -first bay of the nave, which may have been erected in connection with -the choir and crossing.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_485" id="fig_485"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_058.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_058.png" width="434" height="317" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 485.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Arcade in North Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The oldest part of the nave, after the south-east doorway, is the wall -of the north aisle (<a href="#fig_484">Fig. 484</a>). The responds opposite the piers are very -bold. Each consists of a central shaft, with sharp edge to the front, -and a round shaft on each side of it. The responds have rounded abaci -and caps all richly carved with foliage, and a moulded band in the -centre. The lower story of the wall contains an arcade of interlacing -arches springing from single shafts, the caps of which have square abaci -and very rich foliage (<a href="#fig_485">Fig. 485</a>). The arch mouldings are flat, and -contain a quantity of small nail-head ornament between the rolls. The -windows above the arcade are single lancets—one in each bay (<a href="#fig_486">Fig. 486</a>.) -On the exterior the lower part of the wall is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_486" id="fig_486"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_059.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_059.png" width="430" height="550" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 486.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. North Doorway and North Side -of Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">plain, and each lancet has a pair of nook shafts, with simple cap, -having a square abacus. The arch head is in two orders, both splayed, -the outer order having the splay enriched with a series of plain ball<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_487" id="fig_487"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_060.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_060.png" width="416" height="566" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 487.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. South Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">ornaments. In the interior (see <a href="#fig_484">Fig. 484</a>) these windows show a plain -splayed ingoing, the inner sconsion being formed into an obtuse nook, -containing a bold shaft, with cap spreading its foliage widely so as to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span> -fill up the obtuse angle. The arch contains bold first pointed -mouldings.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_488" id="fig_488"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_061.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_061.png" width="297" height="373" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 488.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Details of South Aisle: -Inside.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The south wall of the south aisle (<a href="#fig_487">Fig. 487</a>) is designed in a similar -manner to the above, but the details are different and of a rather later -character. The responds, although bold, are different from those of the -north wall, the shafts being all round, and the centre shaft is -separated from the side shafts by a square member, having the angle -chamfered. The caps have the same round abacus and bold foliage as those -of the north side. The lower story contains a wall arcade, having single -pointed arches, with first pointed mouldings. The shafts are free, and -the richly foliaged caps (<a href="#fig_488">Fig. 488</a>) have round and square abaci. The -windows over the arcade correspond generally to those in the north wall; -but being above the cloister roof, they are short externally, and the -sill is deeply<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_489" id="fig_489"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_062.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_062.png" width="411" height="548" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 489.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. South Wall: Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">sloped on the inside. The windows are all pointed, except those of the -two east bays already mentioned. The obtuse nooks for the shafts on the -sconsions of the pointed windows are repeated in the two round-headed -east windows. The lower part of the exterior of the south wall running -westwards from the Norman doorway (<a href="#fig_489">Fig. 489</a>) is arcaded with a series<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span> -of large pointed arches, each enclosing five smaller pointed arches, and -having a plain wall space between the large and small arches. The caps -of these arcades are all of early first pointed work. The one shown in -<a href="#fig_490">Fig. 490</a> is of peculiar design, having probably been worked on at some -period. <a href="#fig_491">Fig. 491</a> shows one of the caps of the triple shaft supporting -the springing of the large and small arches. The above large arches -were, doubtless, the wall arches for a groined roof over the cloister -walk; but whether that vault was ever built it is now impossible to say. -The south aisle is the only portion of the edifice which retains its -vaulting (see <a href="#fig_487">Fig. 487</a>). This is of a very simple character, consisting -of transverse ribs and diagonal ribs. The vaulting of the north aisle -has apparently been similar.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_490" id="fig_490"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_063-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_063-a.png" width="131" height="163" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 490.</span>—Holyrood Abbey.</p> - -<p>Cap in Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_491" id="fig_491"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_063-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_063-b.png" width="213" height="330" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 491.</span>—Holyrood Abbey.<br /> Cap in cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The main arcade of the nave (<a href="#fig_492">Fig. 492</a>) has consisted of eight bays. -Those of the south side still stand, but on the north side only two -shattered piers survive. The piers are of the simplest form of clustered -columns, each containing a three-quarter round shaft on the four -cardinal angles, with two nook shafts between. The shafts are all -crowned with richly foliaged caps, having rounded abaci. The arch -mouldings consist of rounds and hollows, all deeply marked. From the cap -of the main pier springs a triple vaulting shaft, which runs up through -the triforium and receives the springing of the vaulting ribs on plain -bell-caps some feet below the string course under the clerestory. The -triforium is divided into two arches in each bay by a single central -shaft, springing from a corbel over the apex of each arch of the main -arcade, and running up to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span> string course beneath the clerestory. -This would appear to indicate that the vaulting was sex-partite, which -view is confirmed by the direction in which the surviving portions of -the groins point.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_492" id="fig_492"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_064.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_064.png" width="419" height="553" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 492.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Interior of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_493" id="fig_493"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_065.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_065.png" width="412" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 493.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Each arch of the triforium (see <a href="#fig_492">Fig. 492</a>) is acutely pointed, and -contains two smaller acutely pointed arches within it, each of which has -an inner trefoiled arch. These arches all spring from single round -shafts, with plain round caps arranged to receive them. The tympanum of -the large arch is pierced with a quatrefoil or trefoil. All the -mouldings are of a bold first pointed character. The triforium, no -doubt, contained the usual passage in the thickness of the wall, which -would tend to weaken the structure. To counteract that tendency, as may -be seen from the south (<a href="#fig_493">Fig. 493</a>), strong saving arches have been -introduced to carry the chief pressure across from main pier to main -pier. A similar strengthening arch exists in the outer wall of the -triforium gallery at Amiens Cathedral.</p> - -<p>The west end of the edifice has contained the finest work of the -building. The west wall, with its splendid doorway between the two -western<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span> towers (<a href="#fig_494">Fig. 494</a>), must have presented as bold and ornate a -piece of architecture as was to be found in Scotland.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_494" id="fig_494"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_066.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_066.png" width="392" height="505" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 494.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. North-West Tower and West -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The west front is now greatly shorn of its glory, but the portions which -remain only tend to increase the regret for what is gone. As already -mentioned, the south-west tower was removed to allow of the palace being -erected, and even the western doorway is encroached on by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_495" id="fig_495"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_067.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_067.png" width="410" height="563" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 495.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the palace wall. A portion of the south-west tower is still visible in -the interior, and contains a doorway. The upper part of the west end -(<a href="#fig_492">Figs. 492</a> and <a href="#fig_494">494</a>) was reconstructed by Charles <small>I.</small> in 1633. It -contains<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span> two nondescript windows of seventeenth century Gothic, with an -inscription between them, which events have not confirmed, viz.:—“He -shall build ane House for my name and I will stablish the Throne of his -kingdom for ever. Basilicam hanc Carolus Rex Optimus instavravit 1633.” -The tympanum of the doorway has also been altered at this time, and an -oaken lintel introduced, containing a shield, with the initials of -Charles <small>I.</small></p> - -<p>The western doorway (see <a href="#fig_495">Fig. 495</a>) has been a beautiful specimen of -first pointed work. The jambs contained on each side free shafts, -alternating larger and smaller. The caps were beautifully carved with -foliage, and surmounted with rounded abaci. They had also a central -band. The arch orders were very richly carved with running foliage of -different designs, separated by plain mouldings and dog-tooth -enrichments. The tympanum contained a series of small arches and shafts, -resting on a lintel carved with angels’ heads (<a href="#fig_496">Fig. 496</a>). The interior -of the doorway (see <a href="#fig_492">Fig. 492</a>) was also unusually rich, having shafts in -the jambs, with carved caps and large dog-tooth enrichment in the label.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_496" id="fig_496"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_068.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_068.png" width="418" height="105" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 496.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Carving on Lintel of West -Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The north-west tower (see <a href="#fig_494">Fig. 494</a>) is about 24 feet square externally. -The west side is ornamented with two tiers of arcades. The lower arcade -(<a href="#fig_497">Fig. 497</a>) contains five pointed arches, with a trefoiled arch within -each. These rest on triple shafts, with carved caps and rounded abaci. -Over each shaft and between the arches there is a circle containing a -boldly carved Norman head. This feature is unique, and its effect is -fine. The upper arcade (<a href="#fig_498">Fig. 498</a>) consists of three larger arches, each -containing two smaller arches, and all resting on shafts with carved and -rounded caps. The shields in the larger arches are pierced with bold -quatrefoils. Two circles occur in the spandrils over the arches, but -they do not now contain heads.</p> - -<p>The same design is continued round the south side of the tower and along -the west wall of the nave as far as the main doorway, but the north and -east sides of the tower are plain. Above the two arcades the tower -contains a large two-light window (see <a href="#fig_494">Fig. 494</a>) on the north, east, and -west sides. The jambs are lofty, and each contains two round shafts (see -<a href="#fig_498">Fig. 498</a>), with splays between, ornamented with plain balls similar to -those of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_497" id="fig_497"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_069.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_069.png" width="433" height="495" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 497.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Lower Arcade of North-West -Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the windows in the north wall. The caps are carved and have square -abaci. The large outer arch of each window is of square section and -perfectly plain, having only a small chamfer on the edge, and a label -moulding. Each window is divided into two openings by a single central -shaft, having a carved cap and broad square abacus, on which rest the -two plain pointed arches of the inner openings. The shield above is -pierced<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_498" id="fig_498"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_070.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_070.png" width="445" height="645" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 498.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Upper Part of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">with a bold quatrefoil. The jambs and central shaft have a moulded band -in the middle of their height, and the windows are built up solid to -that level, one of the mouldings of the band being carried across as a -cornice; but this is probably a late insertion. On each external angle -of the tower a large nook shaft is carried up, and finished with a cap -on top and base at bottom.</p> - -<p>As above mentioned, the two western piers of the crossing (see <a href="#fig_493">Fig. 493</a>) -are still standing. They consist of shafts similar to those of the main -piers of the nave, but considerably larger, and are carried up to the -same height as the vaulting shafts of the nave, where they have similar -caps and a bold pointed arch thrown across the nave. Within this arch -there has been erected, in modern times, a large traceried window. The -spaces below the window and across the side aisles have been built up -with fragments of the demolished structure, and a window is thus formed -at the east end of each aisle.</p> - -<p>During the fifteenth century the church has evidently undergone a -thorough repair. It is thought that this was undertaken by Abbot -Crawford, who presided over the abbey from about 1460 to 1483. The work -executed at this time consisted of the addition of seven buttresses on -the north side and several buttresses on the south side of the aisles. -Those on the north side (see <a href="#fig_486">Fig. 486</a>) are large, and may either enclose -the old buttresses, or have been substituted for them. They have a -set-off near the centre, above which each contains an elaborately -ornamented and canopied niche. Beneath and above the niche there are -carved panels which have contained angels and shields, with coats of -arms. The arms of Abbot Crawford are said to have been carved on the -panels, but they are now too much decayed to be distinguishable.</p> - -<p>Above the upper panels the buttresses are continued with several -set-offs, and finished with a small square pinnacle. The pinnacles have -been crocheted and terminated with a carved finial, but they are now -greatly wasted away. There were, doubtless, flying arches from the above -buttresses to the clerestory (see their springing in <a href="#fig_484">Fig. 484</a>), but they -must have fallen with the roof.</p> - -<p>A somewhat elaborate north doorway (see <a href="#fig_486">Fig. 486</a>) has been introduced, -in a style similar to that of the buttresses, in the second bay from the -west tower. The arch is semicircular, and has an ogee canopy. There are -small niches above the arch on each side which contained statues, now -demolished. This doorway was probably constructed by Abbot Crawford at -the same date as the buttresses.</p> - -<p>A series of buttresses was also erected about the same time on the south -side of the fabric. It is believed, however, that these buttresses are -partly old, or are on old foundations. In order not to interfere with -the cloister walk, which ran along next the south wall, and where it -would have been inconvenient to have any projections, the buttresses<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span> -were carried in the form of flying arches over the top of the cloister -roof. At the clerestory level (see <a href="#fig_493">Fig. 493</a>) flying arches, similar to -those on the north side, rested against the upper portions of buttresses -and pinnacles introduced between the windows. On the outside of the -cloister walk the flying arch abutted upon oblong masses of masonry, -which, probably, at one time were finished with pinnacles, but these no -longer exist. <a href="#fig_499">Fig. 499</a> shows the lower part of the eastmost of these -buttresses, from which it is evident that the outer enclosure of the -cloister walk was connected with them, and extended as an open arcade -between them.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_499" id="fig_499"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_072.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_072.png" width="428" height="385" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 499.</span>—Holyrood Abbey. Buttress in Cloister, showing -Arcade.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Abbot Crawford was succeeded by Robert Bellenden, who presented the -abbey with many costly gifts. Amongst these were the bells, a great -brass font, and a chalice of gold. He further completed the restoration -of the fabric begun by Abbot Crawford by covering the roof with lead. -This took place before 1528.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1539 the office of commendator was bestowed on Robert, natural son of -James <small>V.</small>, while still an infant.</p> - -<p>The “great brass font” was carried off by Sir Richard Lee, an officer of -Hertford’s army, in 1544, and taken to St. Alban’s Abbey. It was -afterwards sold for old metal.</p> - -<p>The brass lectern of the abbey seems also to have fallen into Sir -Richard Lee’s hands, and was by him presented to the parish church of -St. Stephen’s, at St. Alban’s, where it still stands. It is a handsome -lectern of the usual form, having an eagle with outstretched wings to -receive the volume. It contains a shield with a lion rampant and a -crozier, with the inscription, “Georgius Crichton, Episcopus, -Dunkeldensis.”<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> Before becoming bishop, Crichton was Abbot of -Holyrood, 1515-24.</p> - -<h3>KILWINNING ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Ayrshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Of this once important abbey only a few fragments now survive. The -monastery occupied extensive grounds on the banks of the river Garnock, -situated a few miles from the sea in the northern division of Ayrshire -known as Cuninghame. The ruins of the south transept of the church may -still be seen from the Kilwinning Railway Station towering above the -houses of the town.</p> - -<p>The site seems to have been occupied in the eighth century by an Irish -monk called St. Winnan, who is believed to be the same as St. Finnan of -Moville. On the spot sanctified by his cell, a monastery was founded in -the twelfth century by Richard or Hugh Moville, said by Pont<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> to have -been a knight who fled from England in consequence of his connection -with the murder of Becket. He was welcomed by the King of Scotland, who -created him Great Constable of the Kingdom, and presented him with the -lordships of Cuninghame, Largs, and Lauderdale. But the dates are -difficult to reconcile. It seems, however, that towards the end of the -twelfth century a colony of Tyronensian Benedictines was imported into -Kilwinning from Kelso Abbey, and, as usually happened at that period, -was speedily endowed with lands and became wealthy. To judge from the -style of the surviving architecture, the church must have been erected -early in the thirteenth century. The south entrance doorway from the -cloisters to the nave (<a href="#fig_500">Fig. 500</a>), although pointed, contains some -lingering Norman enrichments, while the other principal remains indicate -the work of the thirteenth century. The history of the monastery is -somewhat obscure. The chartulary has been lost, but the names of a -number of the abbots are preserved.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_500" id="fig_500"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_074.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_074.png" width="438" height="631" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 500.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. Doorway from Cloisters to -Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the <i>Collections of the Archæological Association of Ayr and Wigton</i> -(1878) are printed a number of documents showing agreements between the -monks of Kilwinning and others regarding churches and benefices. Amongst -other papers there are notices of a charter by Robert <small>I.</small>, granting to -the monks fishings in Leven and Clyde; a petition by David <small>II.</small>, showing -that in consequence of wars and inroads the abbot and convent were -reduced to a state of want and poverty, and granting them aid; several -letters by Pope John <small>XXII.</small>, early in the fourteenth century, confirming -grants of different churches and patronages; confirmations by Robert <small>II.</small> -and Robert <small>III.</small> of prior benefactions and new gifts; grants by James -<small>III.</small> and confirmation by James <small>IV.</small> of certain royal grants formerly made -to the abbey. An instrument narrates how, in 1512, the precincts of the -abbey were invaded by the Earls of Glencairn and Angus on behalf of a -rival abbot, thus showing that the monastery began to suffer from the -turbulence of that period. Towards the middle of the sixteenth century -the abbacy passed into the hands of commendators who, “for the utility -and advantage of the said monastery,” as it was expressed, but really in -order to secure as much as possible of the spoil, granted charters of -the monastic lands to their lay friends and relations. Thus, in 1552, -there is a confirmation by Queen Mary of a charter granted by Gavin, -commendator of the abbey, in favour of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, whereby -“on the narrative of the usefulness and necessity to the said monastery -of a prudent and legal justiciar, chamberlain, and bailie for the -administration of justice to the tenants and inhabitants of the lands of -the said monastery, and for their lawful defence against any that -attempted to trouble them,” and also remembering the good services of -the Earl and his predecessors “in the safeguard and defence of the -rights and liberties of the said monastery, and especially in opposing -by force and resisting malignant and heretical men in these times -attempting every year to invade their monastery lands and possessions -and to rob their revenues,” the feu right of the office of justiciary, -chamberlainry, and bailiacy of certain of the lands of the monastery is -granted to the said Earl, together with a salary of £40 Scots. Further -charters are also granted to different parties in consideration of sums -paid by them, said to be for the repair and restoration of the monastic -buildings, which were ruinous and decayed.</p> - -<p>In 1565 the abbacy was set apart, along with Paisley, Kelso, Jedburgh, -and Newbattle, for the royal charges. By a charter under the Great Seal -in 1603-4, the whole lands and possessions of the monastery were raised -into a free temporal lordship in favour of Hugh, fifth Earl of -Eglintoun.</p> - -<p>The office of commendator appears to have survived, and in 1606, after -the restoration of Episcopacy, retained the privileges attached to the -order, and we find the bishops (who were the commendators) taking their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span> -seats in Parliament as formerly. This continued till 1638, when -presbytery prevailed.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></p> - -<p>The buildings of the abbey appear to have been destroyed shortly after -the Reformation. According to Knox the Earl of Arran, together with the -Earls of Glencairn and Argyle and the Protestants of the west, cast down -Fail, Kilwinning, and part of Crosraguel Abbeys, and, as stated by Pont, -the work of destruction was completed in 1591. Part of Kilwinning Abbey, -however, was repaired and fitted up as a Presbyterian place of worship. -This was taken down in 1775, and the present very plain parish church -was erected on the site of the choir. Shortly after this time (1789) the -building was visited by Captain Grose, who mentions that the tower or -steeple was then being repaired by the Earl of Eglinton.</p> - -<p>The Plan (<a href="#fig_501">Fig. 501</a>) shows what parts of the monastic edifices can now be -seen above ground. These consist of the south wall and gable of the -south transept, and one pier with respond and arch between the south -transept and its east aisle; the handsome door (see <a href="#fig_500">Fig. 500</a>) which led -from the nave into the cloisters; the entrance to the chapter house from -the cloisters; a long ancient wall which formed the wall of the south -aisle of the nave; and some portions of the west end of the nave and the -south-western tower.</p> - -<p>In the architectural notes which accompany an account of the abbey in -the publication of the <i>Archæological Association of Ayr and -Wigton</i>,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> Mr. Galloway gives an account of the result of certain -diggings and explorations carried out by him.</p> - -<p>From these it was ascertained that traces of the outline of the rest of -the church could be distinguished, as shown on the Plan. It was thus -found that “in its original state Kilwinning was a cross church, 225 -feet in extreme length internally, 64 to 65 feet in breadth at the nave, -and 98 feet from north to south of the transepts. The nave had north and -south aisles throughout its entire length, the transepts had eastern -aisles only, and there was a small chancel about 30 feet in breadth, -without aisles.” The church was terminated at the west end with two -square towers, which projected slightly beyond the walls of the nave. -The mode of construction of these towers formed a rather exceptional -feature in Scottish church architecture. The towers were not carried -down with solid walls to the foundation according to a usual plan (as at -Elgin, Aberdeen, &c.), but rested on two sides on arches which opened -into the nave and aisles, and thus formed a continuation of the aisles -of the nave. Of these arches only that which opened into the south aisle -remains, together with the pier and respond which supported it. The arch -(<a href="#fig_502">Fig. 502</a>) is acutely pointed and the springing is high, thus giving it -a kind of horse shoe shape. The foundations of some other parts of the -south<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_501" id="fig_501"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_077.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_077.png" width="606" height="443" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 501.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_502" id="fig_502"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_078.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_078.png" width="392" height="502" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 502.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. West End: Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">tower were, by excavation, ascertained to exist. The mouldings and caps -of the existing piers and arch all belong to the first pointed period, -but from having been long exposed to the weather, they are considerably -decayed. The mouldings on the west angle of the pier are carried up to a -great height without any caps (see <a href="#fig_502">Fig. 502</a>). The caps would, doubtless, -be placed at a higher point than the shafts now reach to. This -indicates<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span> that the arches of the towers on the side next the central -aisle of the nave were very high, probably reaching to the level of the -clerestory arch, and thus effectually including the space of the towers -in the nave. This arrangement of the tower arches next the nave is quite -unique, and would give the appearance of a western transept at the -entrance to the church.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_503" id="fig_503"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_079.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_079.png" width="431" height="517" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 503.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. West End: Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span></p> - -<p>The north-west tower has entirely disappeared, but its position has been -ascertained to have corresponded with that of the south tower. Above the -existing arch from the tower into the south aisle, and on the east side -of it, a small portion of an arch of the triforium may still be observed -(<a href="#fig_503">Fig. 503</a>). A small shaft with cap and a portion of the arch yet remain. -In Grose’s view some fragments of the clerestory are also shown, but -they no longer exist. To the north of the south tower pier a strong -wall, 6 feet in thickness, has been erected across what was originally -part of the nave. This, Mr. Galloway thinks, was probably built as a -reparation of the fourteenth century, the structure having probably -suffered injury during the wars of independence. Whether the wall was -erected at that time or not, there can be little doubt that it was -constructed after the demolition of the original west front and tower, -as a substitute for the former. The wall is built across the church -between the east faces of the two towers, thus leaving the high arches -of the towers, if they then existed, outside the edifice. It seems -probable, however, that the south tower had by that time been partially -demolished, and its ruins have remained ever afterwards exposed to the -weather. Hence the extremely weather worn appearance the stones now -present. The north tower, we know, remained complete till this century. -It is shown by Grose, and an account exists of its being struck by -lightning in 1805, and of its fall five years thereafter. A new tower -has, in recent times, been erected on the site of the old north tower.</p> - -<p>This renewed west wall has a plain pointed doorway and a lofty double -window (see <a href="#fig_502">Figs. 502</a> and <a href="#fig_503">503</a>), with a simple mullion and transome of -rather indefinite design. The doorway is extremely plain and small, -being only about 3 feet in width, and having a double splay on the jambs -and arch.</p> - -<p>The nave seems to have consisted of seven bays in addition to the -towers, and was of unusual width. A considerable portion of the south -wall of the south aisle survives, and still retains the corbels which -carried the vault of the south aisle. This wall, no doubt, formed the -north side of the cloister walk, and contained the fine doorway from the -cloister to the nave, shown in Fig. 500. Some traces of late Norman work -are, as already noticed, observable here. The arch is pointed, and -contains four orders of mouldings. The label is enriched with the -dog-tooth, while the other ornaments, as well as the details of the caps -and bases, are of a somewhat Norman character. The design of this -doorway is thus in the transition style, while the remainder of the -building is all of early pointed work. The undercut cross bars, which -formed a chevron enrichment rising above a roll, have all been knocked -off, only the stumps being left. One of the caps contains traces of two -figures, and the ornamentation of the bases is peculiar (see enlarged<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span> -sketches in <a href="#fig_500">Fig. 500</a>). Two plain round headed doorways can be traced in -the south wall of the nave, near its west end. They doubtless led from -the nave into the cloister.</p> - -<p>Modern buildings now occupy the site of the cloisters, and the old -cloister wall is incorporated with them. One of these houses bears the -date of 15—, and comprises some of the plain vaulted structures which -appear to have formerly been part of the abbey buildings.</p> - -<p>The south wall of the south transept, with its gable (<a href="#fig_504">Fig. 504</a>), is, -fortunately, fairly well preserved, and forms a lofty and prominent -object in the landscape, rising to a height of about 90 feet. Its triple -lancets, with their plain chamfers on the outside, and bold mouldings in -the interior (<a href="#fig_505">Fig. 505</a>), and circular light above, are characteristic of -thirteenth century work. The mouldings and dog-tooth enrichments of the -arch of the eastern aisle (see <a href="#fig_505">Fig. 505</a>) are indications of the same -period. Similar mouldings and ornaments have been carried up into the -triforium, and remains of a circular cusped opening are visible in the -east wall above. One arch of the arcade of the east aisle, with one pier -and respond, still survive. All the work connected with them is of fine -first pointed design. A doorway in the south-west angle of the transept -led to the stair to the upper parts of the structure, and, doubtless, -also to the dormitory over the chapter house, &c.</p> - -<p>From Mr. Galloway’s explorations it was discovered that the foundations -of the north wall of the north transept still exist, thus enabling the -dimensions of the church to be determined. Both transepts had, as was -very usual, only an eastern aisle.</p> - -<p>To the south of the south transept some portions of the slype or passage -from the cloisters to the eastern side of the monastery, and parts of -the chapter house, yet remain. The slype has a plain semicircular arched -doorway (see <a href="#fig_507">Fig. 507</a>) next the cloister, and has had a stone bench or -seat running along each side. The passage has been arched with a cradle -vault in ashlar, of which a small portion still survives. The chapter -house is in ruins, but the west wall (<a href="#fig_506">Fig. 506</a>), which contains the -semicircular entrance from the cloister and two semicircular windows, -one on each side of the entrance, is still preserved. The windows were -divided into two openings by a mullion and two plain arches. The doorway -and double windows have numerous mouldings, and the doorway is enriched -also on the inside (<a href="#fig_507">Fig. 507</a>.) The mouldings are bold, and the same -mouldings are repeated in the jambs and arches. The caps are simple (see -section in <a href="#fig_506">Fig. 506</a>), but they are not adjusted to the mouldings of the -jambs, having a plain soffit, against which the shafts and mouldings of -the jambs butt. These are all indications of somewhat late design. As -was usually the case, the doorway and side windows of the chapter house -were left open; that is, without a door to close the doorway or glass in -the windows, so that all that passed in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span> the chapter house might be seen -and heard from the cloister. The chapter house has been of quadrangular -form, 19 feet in width by 38 feet 4 inches in length. Only the entrance -front remains.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_504" id="fig_504"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_082.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_082.png" width="429" height="555" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 504.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. South End of South Transept: -Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_505" id="fig_505"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_083.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_083.png" width="402" height="628" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 505.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. South End of South Transept: -Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_506" id="fig_506"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_084.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_084.png" width="588" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 506.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. Entrance to Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_507" id="fig_507"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_085.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_085.png" width="601" height="385" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 507.</span>—Kilwinning Abbey. Chapter House: Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span></p> - -<p>Of the choir the outline only could be traced during the excavations. -The eastern angles terminated with massive buttresses. The extreme -external width over the bases was only 42 feet 6 inches, thus leaving a -choir not more than 30 feet in width internally. From the massive -foundations discovered at the intersection of the nave and transepts, it -is surmised that there may probably have been a central tower as well as -the two western towers.</p> - -<h3>DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL,<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The dioceses of Dunblane and Brechin were founded towards the close of -the reign of David <small>I.</small> from the remains of the old Pictish bishopric of -Abernethy, after numerous portions had been abstracted by St. -Andrews.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a></p> - -<p>The town of Dunblane stands on the left bank of the Allan Water about -four miles north of Stirling. The old town is small and consists of a -single narrow street leading from the bridge over the Allan up to the -platform on which the cathedral stands surrounded by its ancient -churchyard. Indications of the age of many of the houses may be observed -in the coats of arms inserted in their walls.</p> - -<p>It is believed that St. Blane, in the seventh century, here founded a -Columban establishment, which is said to have been an offshoot from -Kingarth in Bute.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> The bishopric was re-established by King David <small>I.</small> -in 1150. The ancient square tower of the cathedral which still survives -is a relic of the structure erected in the twelfth century. Nothing is -known of the cathedral from that time till 1233, when Clement was -appointed to the see. Finding everything connected with the bishopric in -a neglected condition, he repaired to Rome and laid the case before the -Pope, pointing out that the Columban monastery had fallen into lay -hands, that the church was roofless and without a pastor, and that -divine service was only occasionally performed. He succeeded in his -appeal, and, in 1238, the Bishops of Glasgow and Dunkeld were appointed -to settle matters between the Bishop of Dunblane and the Earl of -Monteith who had raised certain claims. Clement died in 1258, after -having re-established the bishopric, and, it is believed, partly, if not -entirely, rebuilt the cathedral.</p> - -<p>To judge from the style of the architecture, it is probably the case -that the structure was at least begun by him, though the style indicates -that it was not completed before the end of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>This cathedral is one of our noblest structures, and situated as it is -on the high east bank of the Allan, which here swells out into a broad<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_508" id="fig_508"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_087.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_087.png" width="625" height="398" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 508.</span> Dunblane Cathedral. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_509" id="fig_509"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_088.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_088.png" width="666" height="281" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 509.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">expanse, the view of the edifice, as seen from the south-west -(<a href="#fig_508">Fig. 508</a>), with its lofty front and ancient tower rising above the wooded -bank of the stream, is particularly charming.</p> - -<p>The structure (<a href="#fig_509">Fig. 509</a>) consists of a nave of eight bays, with north -and south aisles, an aisleless choir of six bays, an northern aisle -unconnected with the choir, except by a doorway, and the twelfth century -tower attached to the south aisle of the nave.</p> - -<p>The tower is 22 feet 6 inches square, with walls about 5 feet in -thickness. It is awkwardly placed in connection with the church, the -walls not being parallel to those of the nave, while the tower projects -into the south aisle from 6 feet to 7 feet 6 inches. A high window in -the east wall of the ground floor of the tower is, in consequence, built -up by the wall of the aisle. The ground floor has a pointed ribbed -barrel vault, and a wheel stair in the south-west angle leads to the -top. The doorway of the tower is in the north wall, and now enters from -the south aisle of the nave (<a href="#fig_510">Fig. 510</a>); but, so far as can be -ascertained, the doorway appears to have been originally an external -one. The sill is about 3 feet above the existing level of the floor of -the nave. It has a nook shaft on each side, with the usual Norman cap -and base, and a semicircular arch head. There is no appearance of any -building having originally been joined to, or abutted against, the -tower, which would therefore seem to have stood detached. It would thus -be to a certain extent in accordance with the traditional design, being -detached like the Irish towers, though square on plan, not round like -them. It also resembled the Irish towers in having the doorway raised -some feet above the ground. As Dunblane was several times pillaged and -destroyed by the Norsemen, the tower may have been intended, as the -ancient round towers were, to serve as a place of defence against such -inroads, as well as for a belfry.</p> - -<p>The tower (<a href="#fig_511">Fig. 511</a>) is six stories in height. The lower four of these -stories form part of the original structure, and have small narrow -apertures, except the fourth story, which was probably the original top -story or belfry, and has a two-light window on each side. These consist -of an opening with plain jambs and round arched head, divided into two -lights by a central shaft having Norman cap and base and two small plain -round arched heads within the outer arch. The four lower stories of the -tower are all built with red freestone, the fifth story is of yellow -freestone, the sixth or top story of a grey freestone, and the tower is -finished with a parapet of red freestone. The two highest stories are -evidently of a late date. The top story contains a large pointed window -on each side with a central mullion. The form of these windows is -inelegant, and they are probably of sixteenth century date. The parapet, -with its angle bartisans resembling those of the castles of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, but with almost no projection, is -apparently still later than the belfry story. On the parapet are the -arms of Bishop Chisholm, about 1500. The slated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_510" id="fig_510"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_090.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_090.png" width="456" height="640" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 510.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. South Side of Nave and -Lower Story of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_511" id="fig_511"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_091.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_091.png" width="445" height="612" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 511.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Tower from South-East and -Part of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">wooden roof is comparatively modern, but is on the lines of the one -which preceded it.</p> - -<p>Judging from the style of the architecture the next oldest part of the -fabric after the tower is the north aisle of the choir (generally called -the lady chapel). The work here (<a href="#fig_512">Fig. 512</a>) is all of a rather early -first pointed style. The buttresses are plain with simple set offs, and -the windows consist of two or three small pointed lights enclosed within -one larger arch. The latter are low segmental pointed arches, and the -haunches are raised so as to allow the small side lights to be carried -as high as possible. This building is vaulted (<a href="#fig_513">Fig. 513</a>) with pointed -groins of first pointed section, which spring from semi-octagonal shafts -with early caps, and the bosses at the intersection are carved with -first pointed foliage. Above the vault there is an upper story with -small two-light windows. It is approached by a wheel stair in the -thickness of the west wall, entered both from the lady chapel and the -nave aisle. Such upper stories over the aisles of early churches are not -uncommon, as at Durham, Ely, St. Albans, Dunfermline, &c., but they -generally form an upper gallery and admit light to the centre. Here the -upper windows admit no light to the choir, the wall of the latter being -solid. Possibly this upper chamber may have been used for a scriptorium -or similar purpose. Upper stories were frequently employed for writing -rooms, as at Arbuthnot and Inchcolm, the room over the chapter house of -the latter being the place where Bower wrote his history.</p> - -<p>It is remarkable that this north aisle of the choir, or lady chapel, -should be entirely separated from the choir by a solid wall in which -there never was any opening into the aisle except the small doorway near -the east end, which is of first pointed date.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> This doorway, with its -details, is shown in Fig. 514. Whether this aisle was the first part of -the structure erected by Bishop Clement in order to be used as a -temporary church while the remainder of the cathedral was building, or -whether the choir built by him was afterwards rebuilt, the north aisle -being left unchanged, it is now impossible to say. That the choir is of -later date than the aisle there can scarcely be any doubt; but it does -not appear to be of much later date. The same base mouldings are carried -round the whole building, and the design of the east end of the choir, -with its large central and two narrow side windows (see <a href="#fig_512">Fig. 512</a>) and -plain pinnacles, shows some features of first pointed character; but -both the large window of the east end and those of the south side (see -<a href="#fig_511">Fig. 511</a>) point to a time about the beginning of the decorated period. -The windows of the clerestory on the north side above the roof of the -north aisle, with their small buttresses, are, however, of a similar -early character to those of the north aisle. Whatever may have been the -object in building<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_512" id="fig_512"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_093.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_093.png" width="555" height="407" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 512.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Choir from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_513" id="fig_513"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_094.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_094.png" width="436" height="558" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 513.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Lady Chapel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">a solid wall between the choir and the north aisle, it has evidently -been intended, from the size of the east windows and also of those on -the south side, to provide sufficient light by them to make up for the -want of light from the north. The kind of tracery which filled these -windows cannot now<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span> be ascertained, but it may have been of the same -character as that of the windows of the west end. The tracery, which -existed till recently in the choir, was clearly a late restoration. The -pinnacles on the south buttresses and the upper part of the choir wall -are also of very late date. These have apparently been restored by -Bishop Chisholm, whose crest they bear, about the year 1500. It will be -observed that the north aisle of the choir stops short by one bay of the -length of the choir, so as to allow the presbytery to be lighted, as is -usual, by windows on three sides. The choir is 81 feet in length by 28 -feet in width within the walls.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_514" id="fig_514"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_095-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_095-a.png" width="169" height="328" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 514.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Door from Choir to Lady Chapel. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_515" id="fig_515"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_095-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_095-b.png" width="313" height="79" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 515.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Plan of Clerestory -Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We now come to the most beautiful part of the structure, viz., the nave. -It measures internally 129 feet in length by 57 feet in width (including -the aisles), and is divided into eight bays. The four eastmost bays and -the westmost bay are 10 feet in width between the piers, while the three -bays next the westmost bay are 12 feet between the piers. A similar -difference is observable in the upper part of the structure, which -consists of the clerestory, there being no triforium (<a href="#fig_516">Fig. 516</a>). The -clerestory is constructed with an outer and an inner wall (<a href="#fig_515">Fig. 515</a>), -having a passage between them in the centre. In the outer wall are the -windows, which have two lights formed by a central mullion, with plain -splays on the jambs and pointed arch (<a href="#fig_517">Fig. 517</a>). The arch head is filled -with a form of tracery consisting of a quatrefoil cut in a plain -circular panel, being thus an intermediate example between the -perforated panel of early first pointed work and the bar tracery of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_516" id="fig_516"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_096.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_096.png" width="346" height="644" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 516.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Elevation of Bay of -Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_517" id="fig_517"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_097.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_097.png" width="427" height="529" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 517.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. West End from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">decorated period. On the inner side of the clerestory gallery an arcade -(see <a href="#fig_515">Fig. 515</a>) is more elaborately carried out. Each bay contains two -arches forming a continuous arcade, resting on clustered shafts with -rounded caps and bases of first pointed style. The arch mouldings are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_518" id="fig_518"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_098.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_098.png" width="444" height="637" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 518.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Interior of North-West -Angle of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">also of fine bold first pointed form. Of this arcade, four and a-half -bays on the north side and four bays on the south side next the east end -have the arcade, without central shaft or tracery. The remainder of the -clerestory arches on both sides have the opening divided by a central -shaft carrying two pointed arches, and the arch head is filled with a -quatrefoil cut out of a circular shield like those above described. The -western bay (<a href="#fig_518">Fig. 518</a>) is exceptional, having one arch with and one -without tracery on each side of the nave, the openings without tracery -being the east one on the south side and the west one on the north side. -It may also be pointed out that the four east bays have ashlar work in -the spandrils of the main arches, while the spandrils of the four west -bays are filled in with rubble work.</p> - -<p>The main piers and arches are all of nearly the same design (<a href="#fig_519">Fig. 519</a>). -They are set diagonally to the nave, and have four half shafts at the -cardinal angles and one intermediate shaft and two square projections -between on each side. In the south piers the square angle is cut off -these projections, otherwise the plan of the piers is the same. They -have all rounded first pointed caps, composed of mouldings over a bell, -and the bases are of usual first pointed forms (see <a href="#fig_516">Fig. 516</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_519" id="fig_519"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_099.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_099.png" width="337" height="109" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 519.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Half-Plan of Nave Piers.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The west end (<a href="#fig_520">Fig. 520</a>) is one of the finest parts of the cathedral. On -the ground floor it contains the western doorway (<a href="#fig_521">Fig. 521</a>), deeply -recessed with a series of shafts and arch mouldings of line first -pointed design, flanked by an acutely pointed blind arch on each side -with trefoiled head within it. This ground story is surmounted by three -lofty pointed windows (see <a href="#fig_520">Fig. 520</a>), all of equal height, and each -divided into two lights by a central mullion, and having the arch head -filled in the central window with a cinquefoil, and in the side windows -with a quatrefoil. The windows are all enclosed with a label moulding, -having carved terminals. The jambs and arches have plain triple splays -(<a href="#fig_522">Fig. 522</a>), and the openings in the arch heads are cut out of plain -circular shields like the windows of the clerestory. A passage like that -of the clerestory runs round in the west wall, and has an inner arcade -of clustered shafts, with arch mouldings and tracery similar to those of -the clerestory. In the interior arcade the three arch heads are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span> all -filled with cinquefoils cut through what is almost a plain shield -(<a href="#fig_523">Fig. 523</a>). The gable is filled with an elegant vesica piscis (<a href="#fig_524">Fig. 524</a>), to -which Ruskin draws attention in his <i>Edinburgh Lectures</i>.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_520" id="fig_520"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_100.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_100.png" width="438" height="524" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 520.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The edifice has not been intended to be vaulted. The buttresses of the -nave are light (see <a href="#fig_517">Fig. 517</a>), and they are finished with plain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_521" id="fig_521"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_101.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_101.png" width="585" height="423" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 521.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">gablets. The cornice is supported on a corbel table of pure first -pointed design. There is no transept, but an attempt has been made to -supply its place by the insertion of large traceried windows in the -first bay of the nave next the choir (see <a href="#fig_508">Fig. 508</a>). The east window of -the south aisle of the nave (see <a href="#fig_511">Fig. 511</a>) has the shield over the -central mullion carved with a quatrefoil sinking on the inside, but it -is not pierced through to the outside, which is left quite plain. The -aisles are of very plain design, the windows being somewhat similar to -those of the lady chapel, and the buttresses being very plain. Two -windows at the west end of the north aisle (<a href="#fig_525">Fig. 525</a>) are of peculiar -form, having a flat segmental arch and being divided by two mullions. -These appear to be a comparatively late alteration. There has been a -north porch (see <a href="#fig_525">Fig. 525</a>) to the nave, of which only the ruined -doorway, with first pointed shafts and arch mouldings, now remains. -There is also a plain south doorway in the nave aisle (see <a href="#fig_511">Fig. 511</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_522" id="fig_522"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_102.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_102.png" width="294" height="110" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 522.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Plan of West Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The north buttress of the west end has been made large so as to contain -a wheel stair to the upper galleries (see Plan) of the edifice (see -<a href="#fig_517">Fig. 517</a>), and in the buttress on the south side of the west doorway a small -vaulted chamber has been formed, in which some interesting relics of -Celtic times have been preserved, amongst others a stone carved with a -Celtic cross, ornamented with a figure like a Greek fret.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, the greater part of the structure is of first -pointed date. The lady chapel may be the oldest part (after the tower), -and next to it is the east portion of the nave. The western half of the -nave seems to have followed soon after the eastern portion, and is -carried out nearly after the same design. The transition tracery in the -arcade of the clerestory and west end is very interesting, as showing -bar tracery in the act of being formed. This could scarcely have -occurred in Scotland before the end of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>The style of the choir is further advanced than the nave, and exhibits -some transitional features between first pointed and decorated work. The -great east window and the large side windows of the choir probably -contained tracery more advanced than that of the west end, and may -probably date from the fourteenth century. The pinnacles and parapet -are, as already pointed out, of about 1500.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_523" id="fig_523"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_103.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_103.png" width="304" height="666" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 523.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Interior of West Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span></p> - -<p>By great good fortune six of the stalls of Dunblane Cathedral with their -canopies, and several others without canopies, have escaped the -destruction which has overtaken almost all the carved woodwork of our -ancient Scottish churches. Those preserved here (<a href="#fig_526">Fig. 526</a>) show some -excellent carving.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_524" id="fig_524"></a><a name="fig_525" id="fig_525"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_104.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_104.png" width="349" height="442" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span style="margin-left:15%;"><span class="smcap">Fig. 524.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral.</span></p> - -<p><span style="margin-left:15%;">Vesica in West Gable.</span><br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 525.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. North-West Angle of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>These stalls contain on one of the misereres the arms of the Chisholm -family, surmounted by a mitre. Three bishops of this name presided in -succession at Dunblane. First, James, eldest son of Edmund Chisholm of -Cromlix, who was advanced to this see in 1486. In 1527, by reason of his -age, he resigned the bishopric in favour of his half-brother, William -Chisholm (second), who was consecrated the same year, and was bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_526" id="fig_526"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_105.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_105.png" width="423" height="554" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 526.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Stalls.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">till his death in 1564. Third, William Chisholm, nephew to the -preceding, who was first coadjutor to his uncle, and then his successor. -He was forfeited for non-compliance with the new measures both in Church -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_527" id="fig_527"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_106.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_106.png" height="550" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 527.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Details of Stalls.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span></p> - -<p>State, sometime before the 3rd July 1573, and retired to France, where -he died in his old age a Carthusian at Grenoble.</p> - -<p>The first of these bishops, James, receives very favourable notice from -Bishop Spottiswoode in his <i>History of the Church</i> (Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 215, -Spottiswoode Society edition). “A severe censor he was of the corrupted -manners of the clergy, and recovered many lands and possessions which -were sacrilegiously taken from the Church before his time;” and -otherwise he speaks highly of him. The same authority condemns his -successor, Bishop William, as “a wicked, vicious man, who, for the -hatred he bore to the true religion, made away all the lands of the -bishopric, and utterly spoiled the benefice.” Bishop Keith bears the -same testimony, saying that “he alienated the Episcopal patrimony of -this church to a very singular degree.” The extent to which this -alienation went will be best understood from the remark of Bishop Keith -regarding the second Bishop William, that he “dilapidated any remains of -his bishopric,” clearly implying, as his more detailed account shows, -that there was little left to squander.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_528" id="fig_528"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_107.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_107.png" width="422" height="195" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 528.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Wood Carving.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In these circumstances it is not at all probable that either of the -Bishops William would spend money in the adornment of their cathedral. -There is therefore no difficulty in concluding that the stalls were -provided by Bishop James Chisholm, and that they date between the years -1486 and 1534, the year of his death. Although he resigned in 1527, he -retained to himself the administration of “the fruits of the bishopric -of Dunblane.”<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a></p> - -<p>The carving is very spirited, and full of grotesque figures (see details -in <a href="#fig_527">Fig. 527</a>). It corresponds in style with the date of Bishop James -Chisholm, and has probably been brought from Flanders, where so much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_529" id="fig_529"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_108.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_108.png" width="437" height="624" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 529.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Misereres of Stalls.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_530" id="fig_530"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_109.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_109.png" width="629" height="329" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 530.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Monument in Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_531" id="fig_531"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_110.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_110.png" width="517" height="439" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 531.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Monument in East Bay of -Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_532" id="fig_532"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_111.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_111.png" width="619" height="339" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 532.</span>—Dunblane Cathedral. Monument in North Aisle of -Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">carving of the kind was executed about that time. The lion (<a href="#fig_528">Fig. 528</a>) is -especially good of its kind. It was taken out of the cathedral during -some of the alterations and repairs made on it about the beginning of -this century; and at the same time a considerable quantity of carved -woodwork was removed and converted into household furniture. <a href="#fig_529">Fig. 529</a> -shows some of the carvings on the lower side of the misereres of the -stalls which have no canopies.</p> - -<p>The cathedral contains a few ancient sculptured monuments. One of these -is in the north wall of the choir, and consists of a tomb, under a -recessed canopy, containing the effigy of a bishop (<a href="#fig_530">Fig. 530</a>), said to -be Finley Dermock, who was bishop of the see in the beginning of the -fifteenth century. This bishop built the first bridge over the Allan, at -Dunblane, which still survives, although widened and improved. The head -of the crozier and the right hand which held it have been knocked off; -otherwise the effigy is in good preservation. The feet rest against an -animal, much mutilated, whose tail runs into a wreath of foliage of -first pointed character.</p> - -<p>Another episcopal effigy, attired in pontifical vestments and mitre, -rests in a tomb (<a href="#fig_531">Fig. 531</a>) in the south wall of the eastmost bay of the -nave. This is believed to be the monument of Bishop Michael Ochiltree, -who occupied the see about the middle of the fifteenth century, and -added much to the rich ornaments of the cathedral. The tomb and effigy -are evidently of late date, and both are much decayed.</p> - -<p>In the north aisle of the nave are preserved two effigies (<a href="#fig_532">Fig. 532</a>), -said to be those of Malise, eighth Earl of Strathearn, and his countess. -The figures are life-size, and are carved in a block of sandstone. “When -discovered in the choir, the block was above a coffin of lead, having -inscribed on it the date 1271.”<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> The figures, however, are -undoubtedly of later date.</p> - -<h3>INCHMAHOME PRIORY, <span class="smcap">Stirlingshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ruins of this priory are situated on a small island of about four -acres in extent in the beautiful lake of Menteith. Its retired and -peaceful position is well indicated in the name of Inchmahome, which -means the Isle of Rest. This secluded situation has to some extent saved -the buildings from demolition and the grounds from alteration; so that -this venerable priory, surrounded as it is with ancient and gigantic -walnut trees, and the remains of the gardens of the monks, has a -peaceful and impressive beauty and interest of its own.</p> - -<p>But although the church is fairly well preserved, the monastic buildings -have not escaped the ordinary causes of destruction so entirely as their -situation would have led one to expect.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span></p> - -<p>The adjacent island of Talla is almost entirely covered with the ruins -of the castle of the Earls of Menteith,<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> which seems to date mostly -from the seventeenth century, and in the construction of which the -materials of the suppressed priory, lying so conveniently at hand, were -no doubt largely employed. The Earl must also have found the gardens on -the island of the abbey convenient, and appropriated them as a pleasure -ground.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_533" id="fig_533"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_113.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_113.png" width="446" height="439" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 533.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_534" id="fig_534"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_114.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_114.png" width="648" height="363" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 534.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span></p> - -<p>The instrument authorising the establishment of the priory of Inchmahome -still exists. It is given in the name of the Pope by the Bishops of -Glasgow and Dunkeld in the year 1238, and authorises a monastery to be -built for the religious men already settled in the island. The priory -was founded and endowed by Walter Comyn, fourth Earl of Menteith, for -monks of the Augustinian order. From the style of its architecture the -church evidently belongs to the middle of the thirteenth century. Its -details, such as the lofty lancet windows, the nave piers and arches, -the western doorway, &c., bear a striking resemblance, on a small scale, -to those of the neighbouring cathedral of Dunblane.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_535" id="fig_535"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_115.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_115.png" width="440" height="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 535.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. Sedilia.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Plan (<a href="#fig_533">Fig. 533</a>) shows a choir 66 feet long by 23 feet 8 inches wide -internally, without aisles, and with plain lancet windows, without -tracery (<a href="#fig_534">Fig. 534</a>), those of the east end forming five lights (now built -up). The mullions are preserved, but the arched heads are gone.</p> - -<p>There is a good sedilia (<a href="#fig_535">Fig. 535</a>) and two ambries in the south wall,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span> -and on the north side of the choir are the ruins of what seems to have -been a sacristy built as a north aisle, with only a door from the -church, in the fashion of the north aisle of Dunblane. From the base -mouldings being carried round this aisle, it is evidently an original -part of the design, and the corbels for the wall plate show that it had -a lean-to roof like an ordinary aisle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_536" id="fig_536"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_116.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_116.png" width="447" height="349" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 536.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. North-West Angle of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The nave is 75 feet in length, and its width varies, being 23 feet 8 -inches at the east and 27 feet 2 inches at the west end. This difference -seems to have arisen from the south wall having been rebuilt. The nave -has a north aisle connected with it by four arches, two of the piers and -arches of which are still standing (<a href="#fig_536">Fig. 536</a>). The caps, bases, and -sections of piers and arch mouldings (<a href="#fig_537">Fig. 537</a>) are all good first -pointed work. The west doorway is also very fine, and is pretty well -preserved (<a href="#fig_538">Fig. 538</a>). It comprises a central pointed doorway with deep -ingoing, having numerous shafts with moulded caps and bases, and a deep -series of first pointed mouldings in the arch head (<a href="#fig_539">Fig. 539</a>). On each -side of the central doorway are two pointed wall arches with similar -caps and mouldings, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span> with only a shallow recess. The spandrils -between the arches contain trefoil and quatrefoil recesses.</p> - -<p>There are the remains of a tower at the north-west angle of the nave -(<a href="#fig_540">Fig. 540</a>), but this has been a later addition. There seems, from the -original base course, to have been a tower of some kind here from the -first, but it has evidently been rebuilt, and divided into stories, as -if for habitation. In this operation the arches of the nave and aisle -adjoining, which were originally open, were built up with rubble, but -that has now been cleared out again.</p> - -<p>On the south side of the choir is situated the chapter house (see -<a href="#fig_533">Fig. 533</a>), 24 feet in length by 15 feet in width internally. It is vaulted -with a semicircular tunnel vault, over which there is a room in the roof -(see <a href="#fig_534">Fig. 534</a>). The chapter house has a good east window, and there is -the usual stone seat all round. An outside staircase led to the upper -apartment. The cloisters and cloister garth have been situated to the -south of the nave; the corbels for the cloister roof still remain. There -is no south aisle, and there are no south windows or buttresses to the -nave along what was the cloister walk. To the south of these structures -are several remains of the monastic buildings, but much destroyed.</p> - -<p>The kitchen and offices at the south end (see Plan) are the best -preserved portions, having the fireplace, windows, water drain, &c., and -the kitchen is still covered with a plain round tunnel vault, over which -there was an upper floor. The refectory probably ran along the south -side of the cloister. A staircase near the kitchen led to the dormitory, -of which it would form the day access.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_537" id="fig_537"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_117.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_117.png" width="171" height="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Pier.</p> - -<p>Arch Mouldings.</p> - -<p>Cap and Base.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 537.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. Details of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is at first sight a strange confusion amongst the conventual -buildings, owing to what turns out, on careful examination, to be a -comparatively recent erection built in the middle of them.</p> - -<p>The chapter house seems to have been appropriated as a mausoleum by the -Earls of Menteith and Airth, and a long avenue has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_538" id="fig_538"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_118-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_118-a.png" width="402" height="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 538.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_539" id="fig_539"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_118-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_118-b.png" width="236" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 539.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. Mouldings of West -Doorway.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">constructed and enclosed between two high walls leading up to it. This -was, no doubt, erected with the materials of the demolished monastic -buildings right through the centre of what was the cloister garth. This -enclosure is said to have been erected in haste to receive the remains -of Lord Kilpont, son of the first Earl of Menteith and Airth, who was -assassinated in the camp of Montrose at Collace, in 1644, by Stewart of -Ardvoirlich; a weird Highland story, on which Scott has founded his -romance of <i>The Legend of Montrose</i>. The body was sent home to his -father, then a State prisoner in his own castle of Talla, and was buried -here.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_540" id="fig_540"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_119.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_119.png" width="432" height="350" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 540.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. North-West Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the choir are the graves of some of the most distinguished men of the -families of Comyn, Stewart, Drummond, and Graham, with numerous -monuments, much defaced—amongst others, that of Walter Stewart, fifth -Earl of Menteith and his Countess (<a href="#fig_541">Figs. 541</a> and <a href="#fig_542">542</a>). The Earl was one -of the most historic men of his day. He was present at the battle of -Largs, in 1263; he was a witness to the marriage of the Princess<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span> -Margaret to Eric of Norway, 1281; and he was a distinguished crusader -under Louis IX.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_541" id="fig_541"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_120-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_120-a.png" width="446" height="162" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 541.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. Monument of Fifth Earl and -Countess of Menteith.</p> - -<p>(Drawn from Sketch by Mr. R. B. Armstrong.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In 1543 Queen Mary, as a child, found refuge here along with her mother -after the battle of Pinkie, and she stayed here for some months until a -favourable opportunity was found for sending her to France. Dr. John -Brown has pointed out that amongst other interesting and suggestive -relics in the garden may still be seen what seems to have been the young -queen’s miniature or child’s garden—a small flower plot, the boxwood -edging of which has now grown up into a thick shrubbery.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_542" id="fig_542"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_120-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_120-b.png" width="417" height="134" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 542.</span>—Inchmahome Priory. Monument of Fifth Earl of -Menteith.</p> - -<p>(Drawn from Sketch by Mr. R. B. Armstrong.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At the south side of the island there is a high mound, called the “Nun’s -Walk,” about which a romantic and tragic tale is told. This may, -however, have been an artificial mote or mound, raised for the purpose -of receiving an early wooden castle on its summit. There is a similar -mound close to Lincluden College, Dumfriesshire.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ELGIN CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Morayshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This once noble edifice, of which even the remaining fragments are -amongst our finest examples of mediæval architecture, stands in the -fertile plain of Moray, in the centre of the region which borders the -Moray Firth, and is remarkable for the pleasantness and salubrity of its -climate. This province was long a subject of contest between the -Scottish kings and the Mormaers of Moray. The latter were defeated by -Alexander I., and more permanently subdued by David <small>I.</small>, who both -proceeded to carry out the ecclesiastical policy of their family by -founding in this newly-acquired land various religious establishments.</p> - -<p>The priory of Urquhart, of which now not a stone remains, was -established by David <small>I.</small>, near the mouth of the Lossie, in 1125, for -Benedictines from Dunfermline; and the abbey of Kinloss, near the -Findhorn, was founded, in 1150, for Cistercians from Melrose. The -churches of Birnie, Spynie, and Kineddar also come into notice about -this period.</p> - -<p>The chartulary of the Bishopric of Moray goes no further back than the -year 1200, but the see of Moray is believed to have been founded by -Alexander <small>I.</small> about 1107, and the bishopric certainly existed in his -time.<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> The seat of the bishop, however, was not fixed for a -considerable period thereafter, being sometimes at Birnie and other -times at Spynie and Kineddar. But in 1203 application was made by -Bricius, the sixth bishop to Pope Innocent <small>III.</small>, requesting that the -site of the cathedral should be fixed, and the Pope decided that it -should be settled at Spynie. This situation was, however, found to be -too remote, and Pope Honorius was approached for the purpose of having -the see changed to the banks of the Lossie, where an extensive and -suitable site for the cathedral had been obtained from Alexander <small>II.</small>, -who was a great patron of Elgin.</p> - -<p>The introduction to the <i>Register of the Diocese</i>, p. xii., states that -the application for the transference of the see to Elgin was made by -Bishop Bricius, though the change did not take place till after his -demise. This bishop established a chapter of eight secular canons, and -gave the cathedral a constitution founded on the usage of Lincoln, which -was ascertained by a special mission to England. Bishop Bricius died in -1222, and was succeeded by Andrew de Moravia, a member of a powerful -family in the north. Under him the transference of the Episcopal See to -Elgin was effected, and the cathedral of the Holy Trinity was founded in -1224, on the site of an older church with the same dedication. The works -proceeded under Bishop Andrew’s supervision during the eighteen -remaining years of his life.</p> - -<p>Munificent donations were bestowed on the see by the bishop’s family,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span> -and through his influence the number of the prebends was increased to -twenty-three. It is recorded that Master Gregory, the mason, and -Richard, the glazier, were two persons employed on the work.<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a></p> - -<p>The edifice was probably well advanced in the course of the thirteenth -century, when in 1270, as we are informed by Fordun, the cathedral and -the houses of the canons were destroyed by fire. Mr. Billings is of -opinion that the most of the structure now remaining was erected after -that date. It will, however, be seen that this can scarcely have been -the case. In 1390 the building suffered from another great -conflagration, caused by Alexander Stewart, son of Robert <small>II.</small>, who bore -the title of Earl of Buchan, but was better known as the “Wolf of -Badenoch.” Having interfered with some of the cathedral lands, and -refusing reparation, he was excommunicated by the bishop, and by way of -revenge the “Wolf” descended in force from his mountain fastness and -plundered Forres and Elgin, reducing the latter town and cathedral to -ruins.</p> - -<p>It is evident, however, from the style of much of the work which still -remains that this catastrophe, terrible as it was, caused only a partial -destruction of the cathedral, and it is likely that the previous fire -(in 1270), above referred to, was not of so serious a character as this -one, the memory of which long lingered in the province as the most -terrible disaster ever experienced there. The aged Bishop Bur appealed -for redress to the king, and the “Wolf of Badenoch” was not only forced -to do penance, but also to contribute largely towards the expense of the -restoration of the damage he had caused.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a></p> - -<p>The work of reconstruction proceeded under Bishops Spynie and Innes and -other Bishops, and probably lasted during the most of the fifteenth -century. At the election of a new bishop in 1414, after the death of -Bishop Innes, the canons agreed and made oath that the new bishop about -to be elected should bestow one-third of the revenues of the bishopric -on the rebuilding of the church until its complete restoration was -accomplished. Several parts of the work, such as portions of the west -front and the interior of the chapter house, indicate by their -architecture that they belong to the fifteenth century. Early in the -sixteenth century the central tower showed signs of weakness, and had to -be rebuilt in 1538.</p> - -<p>Some years before the Reformation the period of decline began. In 1535 -Patrick Hepburn, son of the first Earl of Bothwell, was made bishop. -Like many of the other Church dignitaries of that period he caused great -dilapidation of the ecclesiastical possessions, and almost all the -charters of alienation of the cathedral lands were granted by him.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1568 the exigencies of the Regent Moray compelled the Privy Council -to order the removal of the lead from the roofs of the cathedrals of -Aberdeen and Elgin that money might be provided for the soldiers, but -the ship which was conveying the lead to Holland for sale sank, and the -whole was lost. The roofs were thus left unprotected, and in a great -storm which occurred in 1637 the rafters were blown down.</p> - -<p>The destruction of the interior soon followed, and was hastened by the -action of the General Assembly, which, in 1640, empowered Gilbert Ross, -minister of Elgin, and others to break down the timber screen between -the nave and choir. Spalding states that the paintings on the rood -screen—the Crucifixion on the west side, illuminated with gold stars, -and the Day of Judgment on the east side—notwithstanding their exposure -for “seven score years,” were still in excellent preservation when the -demolition took place.</p> - -<p>Next followed the destruction of the tracery of the great west window -and other features, which is believed to have been caused by Cromwell’s -troops in 1650-60.</p> - -<p>By the end of the seventeenth century the double aisles of the nave seem -to have disappeared, as they are not shown in Slezer’s view (published -in 1693). But the chief catastrophe which overtook the edifice was the -fall of the central tower on Easter Sunday, 1711. It fell towards the -west, thus overwhelming in its ruin the nave and transepts, and causing -their complete destruction. The ruins thereafter became, as usual, the -quarry of the district, till, in 1807, by the exertions of Mr. King of -Elgin, a wall was built round the enclosure. In 1816 the Barons of -Exchequer took possession of the ruins, and appointed as keeper John -Shanks, who was an enthusiast in excavating and preserving any ancient -sculpture he could discover, and is said to have wheeled out over 3000 -barrows of rubbish.</p> - -<p>The enclosure which surrounded the precincts of the cathedral was of -considerable extent, and comprised within its bounds the houses of the -canons and the town house of the bishop. The former are now entirely -demolished and the latter is hastening to decay, a large portion having -recently fallen.<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> One gate of entrance to the precincts still -remains.</p> - -<p>Whether we regard the extent and completeness of the arrangement of the -buildings or the beauty of the architecture, Elgin Cathedral, when -perfect, must have held a place in the first rank of our Scottish -ecclesiastical edifices. It was complete in all departments (<a href="#fig_543">Fig. 543</a>), -having a large nave with double aisles, an extended choir and -presbytery, north and south transepts, a lady chapel, and a detached -octagonal chapter house. It also possessed a great tower and spire over -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_543" id="fig_543"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_124.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_124.png" width="643" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 543.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125">{125}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">crossing, two noble towers at the west end, and two fine turrets at the -east end. Most of the existing portions had also the advantage of being -erected during the thirteenth century, at which period Scottish -architecture was at its best. Good examples of the Scottish decorated -period are also represented, and the testimony of ancient historians to -the beauty of the internal sculpture and decoration is well supported by -the fine fragments which still survive, of which a collection is formed -in the chapter house.</p> - -<p>Although slightly inferior in dimensions to our larger cathedrals at St. -Andrews and Glasgow, that of Elgin is in some respects superior. The -splendid western portal is undoubtedly amongst the finest examples of -that feature in Scotland, if not in Britain, and recalls rather the -noble portals of French architecture than those of this country.</p> - -<p>The two grand western towers (<a href="#fig_544">Fig. 544</a>) are also very notable portions -of Elgin Cathedral, and are unsurpassed by any western towers in the -kingdom. From the simple and bold lines of their design, these towers -have likewise more affinity with French than British Gothic.</p> - -<p>On entering the nave by the great western doorway it is apparent from -the remains of the bases of the piers, which are all that now survive of -that portion of the edifice, that the nave has consisted of a main -central compartment with two aisles on each side, thus forming five -divisions, with four rows of arcades running along the length of the -nave. These comprised six bays in the length with an additional bay in -the central compartment between the two western towers. The internal -length of the central aisle of the nave was 118 feet by 32 feet in -width, and the width of the double aisles on each side was 26 feet, thus -making the total width of the nave 84 feet.</p> - -<p>The nave was also entered by two large vaulted porches, one on the north -side and the other on the south side, adjoining the western towers. -These porches are now much destroyed, especially that on the north side. -The choir is of unusual length, containing from the crossing to the east -end seven bays, and extending to a total length of 211 feet. This -includes the two bays of the presbytery which, as usual in large -Scottish churches, extend eastwards beyond the aisles and are lighted -with windows on three sides. The three steps leading up to the high -altar still remain. The great eastern window of the choir (<a href="#fig_545">Fig. 545</a>) is -divided into two arcaded stories with five lights in each, and the upper -story is surmounted by a large circular opening, the tracery of which, -now broken, was evidently inserted at a later time. In the side walls -there is no triforium, but the clerestory is lofty and forms a -continuation of the upper story of the east end, extending along both -sides of the choir (see <a href="#fig_545">Fig. 545</a>). This upper story has separate arches -on the exterior and interior of the wall, and contains a passage between -them for access to the upper part of the building. The arcades of the -east end and clerestory are all ornamented with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126">{126}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_544" id="fig_544"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_126.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_126.png" width="426" height="538" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 544.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">distinct shafts, having round moulded caps and bases and fine bold -mouldings in the arches. The hollows between the shafts and mouldings -are enriched with numerous and elegant forms of the dog-tooth ornament.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127">{127}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_545" id="fig_545"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_127.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_127.png" width="421" height="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 545.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Interior of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The windows are almost all lancets, but some of the side windows are -larger, and some of those in the east end have a little tracery -introduced, thus indicating a rather late date in the style. The elegant -turrets at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128">{128}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_546" id="fig_546"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_128.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_128.png" width="420" height="627" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 546.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129">{129}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_547" id="fig_547"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_129.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_129.png" width="578" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 547.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. South Transept and South Side -of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130">{130}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the east end (<a href="#fig_546">Fig. 546</a>) are ornamented with trefoiled arcades, and have -been finished on top with octagonal pyramidal roofs and canopied -windows. All the features of the choir seem to point to its having been -erected late in the thirteenth century, probably after the fire in 1270, -reported by Fordun. The details are all of pure first pointed form, but -from the exuberance of the enrichments the building was apparently -somewhat late in the period.</p> - -<p>The buttresses on the exterior of the clerestory are of small size -(<a href="#fig_547">Fig. 547</a>), the building having evidently not been designed for a vault, but -only intended to carry a wooden roof over the central choir. The side -aisles, however, were vaulted and groined. About the centre of the side -walls of the choir there is a projecting respond on each side (see -<a href="#fig_545">Fig. 545</a>), which seems to indicate that at one time it had been intended at -this point to throw an arch over the choir to separate it from the -presbytery, and the buttress at this point is of extra size; but some -change of the first design has apparently taken place, and the space -above the caps of the responds has been sloped off in a pyramidal form, -and ornamented with a series of small leaf enrichments. Whether this -change of design was adopted voluntarily, or in consequence of damages -caused by the fire above referred to, it is now impossible to say, but -the result proves how beautifully an accidental alteration could be -turned to good account in the olden time. Possibly the choir only -extended to this point before 1270.</p> - -<p>The aisles of the choir do not extend the full length of the choir, but -stop short, as is usual, by two bays so as to admit more light into the -presbytery. The north aisle is separated from the central choir by a -solid wall, having only one opening, through which a passage leads from -the choir across this aisle to the chapter house. Along the south side -of the choir there runs another and wider aisle (<a href="#fig_548">Fig. 548</a>), which is -said to have formed the lady chapel. It was connected with the choir by -wide arched openings having first pointed piers and mouldings with round -moulded caps, and contains several ancient monuments. The tracery and -other details of this aisle (see <a href="#fig_547">Fig. 547</a>) prove that it has been -considerably altered at a later date than the choir.</p> - -<p>Before completing the description of the choir it may be pointed out -that the north wall presents some peculiarities. It has already been -mentioned that the wall is solid, having in the lower part no openings -to the side aisle, except that leading to the chapter house. It would -appear, however, that this was not always the case, as there are traces -in the side next the aisle of a window which has been built up. The wall -is also in its lower part built with rubble, and it may be conjectured -that this wall was part of the original choir of the Church of the Holy -Trinity, which had been begun when the see of the bishop was transferred -to the site of that church. Another peculiarity is that the windows in -the triforium of the western portion are smaller than those of the rest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">{131}</a></span> -of the choir. Possibly the western aisle, which was cut off from the -choir by a solid wall, was used as the sacristy.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_548" id="fig_548"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_131.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_131.png" width="432" height="540" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 548.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. South Aisle of Choir, or Lady -Chapel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The transepts, like the nave, have been greatly destroyed, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132">{132}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_549" id="fig_549"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_132.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_132.png" width="432" height="535" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 549.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Western Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">chapels, if any such formerly existed on the east side of the transept -(which, however, does not seem to have been the case), have now entirely -disappeared. The south wall of the south transept (see <a href="#fig_547">Fig. 547</a>) is -especially interesting from its containing the oldest architecture in -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133">{133}</a></span> cathedral. The various features all show that it belongs to the -period of transition from Norman to first pointed, which in Scotland -occurred about the beginning of the thirteenth century. The forms of the -buttresses and the introduction of the pointed lancet windows below the -circular arches on the upper floor show that the first pointed style was -making rapid progress, while the circular arches of the upper windows -and the Norman ornaments inserted in the pointed doorway of the south -transept show some lingering remains of the earlier style. Perhaps the -transition in this northern region may have taken place at a later -period than in the south; and, to judge from the transition style here -employed, which in a more southern situation would indicate a date about -1200, this part of the structure may have been erected immediately after -the foundation of the cathedral in 1224; or the transept may have formed -part of the original Church of the Holy Trinity, which was superseded by -the cathedral. The transept would be of great size for an ordinary -church, but would accord well with the dimensions of an edifice intended -for a cathedral.</p> - -<p>The style of the western towers (see <a href="#fig_544">Fig. 544</a>) indicates an early date, -being all of early first pointed work in every detail. The great western -portal (<a href="#fig_549">Fig. 549</a>), with its surmounting gablets and side niches, is also -in the first pointed style. The nine circular shafts of the ingoing, -with their round moulded caps and bases and simple cavetto between, and -the mouldings of the deep bay of the principal arch, are of fine first -pointed character. The arch head comprises amongst the boldly cut -mouldings four rows of dog-tooth ornament, and one order formerly -enriched with a finely undercut and foliaged ornament, now almost -obliterated. This doorway is evidently in a later style than the towers, -although still belonging to the first pointed period.</p> - -<p>An elegant first pointed gallery (<a href="#fig_550">Fig. 550</a>) likewise runs round the -interior of the west wall over the doorway. The inner portions of the -western portal, <i>i.e.</i>, the two smaller arches and tympanum within the -great arch, are of later date. This is quite apparent from the nature of -the enrichments, which indicate the fifteenth century. The ornaments are -numerous and consist of imitations of natural foliage, the jambs and -arches are continuous and without caps, and the arches are surmounted by -crockets, all signs of decorated work. The vesica over the central -mullion has, doubtless, contained an image of the blessed Virgin, and on -either side is an angel kneeling and throwing the censer.</p> - -<p>The great west window over the portal (see <a href="#fig_544">Fig. 544</a>), which was formerly -filled with tracery, is also of later date than the portal, every -feature being of a decorated character. The tracery has apparently -contained a large circle or rose form in its design, and has -corresponded in style with the tracery which latterly filled the eastern -circular light. This part of the building was probably erected in the -earlier part of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134">{134}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_550" id="fig_550"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_134.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_134.png" width="569" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 550</span>.—Elgin Cathedral. Interior of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135">{135}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the fifteenth century. The arms of Dunbar and the royal arms are -observable on shields above the arch, and the former may stand for -Bishop Columba Dunbar, under whom it may have been erected (1422-35). -During the fifteenth century great additions and alterations were, -doubtless, carried out in consequence of the restoration required after -the destruction caused by the “Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390. These extended -chiefly to the nave and chapter house, which were both to a large extent -rebuilt. A contribution towards this restoration appears to have been -made by Robert III. in 1390, in the form of an annuity during the king’s -pleasure; and in 1408 the revenues of the see, while vacant, were -granted to the work.<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a></p> - -<p>The nave appears, from the plan of the main piers (see <a href="#fig_543">Fig. 543</a>) and the -style of the responds against the west towers (see <a href="#fig_550">Fig. 550</a>), to have -been originally of first pointed work, and to have corresponded with the -style of the choir, having no triforium, but a lofty clerestory with -passage in the wall similar to that of the choir. Slezer’s view, taken -before the destruction of the tower and nave in 1711, shows the -clerestory of the nave complete, as above described. The arches of the -windows are drawn as if circular, but this is evidently a mistake, those -of the choir, which still survive and are pointed, being also drawn as -if of circular form. The smaller piers of the outer aisles are evidently -much later in style. The outer aisles would appear to have been the -result of an alteration made apparently at an early date. Some fragments -of the south aisle wall and south porch are apparently of first pointed -style, but the outer aisles were undoubtedly restored in the fifteenth -century. This is apparent not only from the style of the piers, but also -from other indications. Thus, from the water table of the aisle roof -against the north-west tower, it is evident that the roof has originally -been of the simple shed form usually employed to cover a single aisle; -while a second water table or groove has been formed to receive the span -roof of the outer aisle. The small portion of the south wall of the nave -which survives also confirms this view, as the form and ornament of the -traceried windows (<a href="#fig_551">Fig. 551</a>) assign them to the middle pointed period. -The mode of junction of the outer aisles with the western towers also -shows that the former were afterthoughts, as they project beyond the -outer face of the tower wall in an awkward manner (see Plan). The -junction of the south wall with the transept further indicates that the -position of the former has been altered, as the lower part of a buttress -has had to be cut away to make room for it, and the upper part of the -buttress is left unsupported in mid-air (see <a href="#fig_551">Fig. 551</a>).</p> - -<p>The rebuilding of the nave was, doubtless, carried out during the -restoration subsequent to the ruin caused by the “Wolf of Badenoch,” in -1390. This restoration is in the style of the Scottish decorated work<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136">{136}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_551" id="fig_551"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_136.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_136.png" width="539" height="359" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 551.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. South Side of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">{137}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">which flourished during the fifteenth century. It should, however, be -kept in view, as above pointed out, that some of the details of the west -window of the south aisle wall and the south porch seem to indicate that -the south wall had been extended to its present position in first -pointed times. The restoration in the decorated period (after the great -destruction of 1390) may, therefore, have proceeded on the earlier lines -of the thirteenth century. The traceried windows of the south aisle are -clearly of the decorated period. The corbels which carry the arches in -the towers, in the bay of the interior next the west doorway, are also -of fifteenth century work.</p> - -<p>There have been cross walls dividing some bays of the outer aisle into -chapels. Of these some fragments can be traced in the south aisle, and a -few of the piscinas and ambries still remain.</p> - -<p>The chapter house (<a href="#fig_552">Fig. 552</a>) appears to have been originally built about -the same time as the east part of the choir, the buttresses being -similar in design, but it was afterwards considerably altered.</p> - -<p>As it now stands, the chapter house is practically a structure of the -late pointed period. It is the only example remaining in Scotland of a -similar detached octagonal edifice, with central pillar and vaulted roof -(<a href="#fig_553">Fig. 553</a>). It is 37 feet in internal diameter on the ground floor; but -the walls have the peculiarity that, about 8 feet above the floor, they -are corbelled out, and overhang towards the interior. On the side -opposite the entrance where the bishop’s seat stood the corbelling is -carried on an arcade of five arches, enriched with third pointed -ornaments. On the other sides the corbelling is horizontal, with -foliaged caps and corbels at intervals, and detached leaf ornaments in -the mouldings.</p> - -<p>It is apparent from the alteration of the masonry of the exterior that -the windows have been inserted in an older structure. Probably the -chapter house suffered so severely at the hands of the “Wolf of -Badenoch” that it had to be almost rebuilt. The interior of the walls -appears to have been relined with ashlar work when the restoration took -place, new vaulting being erected and enlarged windows introduced at the -same time. The new facing of the interior of the wall is carried round -all the sides, except that in which the entrance doorway is situated. -There it stops short, and the old wall is visible. This lining accounts -for the unusual projection of the upper part of the wall above mentioned -(see <a href="#fig_553">Fig. 553</a>).</p> - -<p>The designer of the restoration of the chapter house has apparently -thought that the original floor space might thus be retained without -diminishing the stability of the structure, which is well buttressed on -the exterior, and he has ingeniously calculated that the additional -weight thrown by the corbelled out thickness on the interior of the -walls would serve as a counterpoise to the outward thrust of the -vaulting. The latter springs from a single vaulting shaft in each angle -of the building, resting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138">{138}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_552" id="fig_552"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_138.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_138.png" width="562" height="447" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 552.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Chapter House from South-West -and South Aisle of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139">{139}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_553" id="fig_553"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_139.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_139.png" width="520" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 553.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Chapter House: Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140">{140}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">on a carved head, and having a foliaged cap. The vaulting has ridge ribs -and liernes, and is evidently founded on English examples. The -intersections of the ribs are provided with ornamental bosses. The -windows are large, and were divided with mullions and tracery of the -middle pointed style, most of which is now demolished.</p> - -<p>The central pillar is octagonal, and consists of alternate rounds and -hollows, the former having distinct bases and foliaged caps, and each of -the hollows having a shield with armorial bearings inserted in the -cavetto between the caps of the shafts.</p> - -<p>The shields on the capital of the central pillar of the chapter house -are as follow:—</p> - -<p class="hang">1. On the south side facing the entrance doorway, a shield with the -royal arms.</p> - -<p class="hang">2. On the north side, immediately opposite the 1st, a sculptured -figure of St. Andrew (see <a href="#fig_553">Fig. 553</a>).</p> - -<p class="hang">3 and 4. On each of the east and west sides, a shield having arms -quartered thereon, viz.:—1st and 4th, a lymphad; and 2nd and 3rd, -a fesse chequé, being the arms of Stewart of Lorn or Innermeth<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> -reversed—<i>i.e.</i>, the 1st and 4th quarters should occupy the -position of the 2nd and 3rd, and <i>vice versa</i> (a mistake not -unusual in Scottish heraldry).</p> - -<p class="hang">5, 6, 7, and 8 occupy the diagonal faces of the octagon, and have -shields bearing the cross, crown of thorns, hands and feet, spear, -and other emblems of the Passion.</p> - -<p>The above heraldic blazons are of some importance, as they enable us to -fix approximately the name and date of the bishop under whom the -restoration of the chapter house was carried out. The royal arms occupy, -as is natural, the most prominent position. The east and west sides both -bear the same arms, and are, doubtless, those of the bishop who presided -at the time of the restoration.</p> - -<p>There were several bishops of the name of Stewart during the fifteenth -century, when the author of the restoration would naturally be looked -for. These were James Stewart (1459), David Stewart (1462), and Andrew -Stewart, who was elect of Moray in 1482. These bishops all belonged to -branches of the family of Lorn. Bishop James Stewart lived for only two -years. Bishop David Stewart was brother of the last bishop, and was -parson of Spynie. “He built the great tower of Spynie Castle<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> (the -Bishop’s Seat), a mighty strong house; it is called to this day David’s -Tower.”<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> “This good prelate made several wise regulations; and after -he had governed the see of Moray fourteen years, he died,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141">{141}</a></span> and was -buried in the same aisle with his brother,”<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> viz., that of St. Peter -and St. Paul on the north side of the cathedral.</p> - -<p>In 1482, Andrew Stewart, third son of Sir James Stewart, surnamed the -Black Knight of Lorn, by Joan, Queen Dowager of Scotland, the widow of -King James <small>I.</small>, was promoted to the bishopric. He had previously been -Lord Privy Seal, sub-Dean of Glasgow, and Rector of Monkland. In 1477 he -was Provost of Lincluden. He died in 1501, and was buried in the choir -of the cathedral. Bishop Andrew Stewart thus held the see for nineteen -years. It is quite possible that the restoration of the chapter house -was begun by Bishop David Stewart, but it seems more likely that the -arms on the pillar are those of Bishop Andrew Stewart. The figure of St. -Andrew, carved on the capital on the north side, being that opposite the -royal arms, seems to favour that view; and the style of a good deal of -the ornament connected with the restored stone lining of the interior, -such as the enrichments of the corbels, &c., agrees rather with the end -than the earlier parts of the fifteenth century. The windows, with their -tracery, may, however, be of a somewhat earlier date.</p> - -<p>A stone reading desk forms part of the central pillar, being attached to -the north-west side at a suitable level. A stone bench runs, as usual, -round the chapter house, and the bases of the shafts in the angle rest -upon it.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the chapter house is by a vestibule opening from the -north aisle of the choir. The interior of the wall over the doorway has -not been thickened like the other sides, and near the top of this blank -wall are four niches (see <a href="#fig_553">Fig. 553</a>), now empty, and these are surmounted -by a smaller niche, also empty.</p> - -<p>On the east side of the vestibule is a small vaulted apartment, -containing a stone trough, which was, doubtless, formerly used as a -lavatory. In more recent times it was occupied as a living-room by the -mother of General Anderson (a benefactor of the town), and the trough is -said to have formed the future General’s cradle.</p> - -<p>A wheel-stair, in the south-east angle of the chapter house, leads to -the roof.</p> - -<p>The north and south aisles of the choir have been vaulted and provided -with ridge ribs and liernes. In the north aisle one bay and in the south -aisle three bays of the vaulting still remain (see <a href="#fig_552">Figs. 552</a> and <a href="#fig_548">548</a>). -The latter, called the Lady Chapel, has been restored in the fifteenth -century, when traceried windows were inserted and the vaulting built.</p> - -<p>In this aisle several monuments have been erected. That of Bishop -Winchester (1437-58), in the wall next the choir (see <a href="#fig_548">Fig. 548</a>), is a -good example of the work of the period. The recumbent effigy of the -Bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142">{142}</a></span> is in fair preservation, and some traces of paintings of angels -are still visible in the interior of the vaulted canopy of this tomb. -The monument to another Bishop, in the same wall, is of a simpler -design.</p> - -<p>This aisle has long been the burial-place of the ancient family of the -Gordons. The central tomb at the east end is that of the first Earl of -Huntly, who died in 1470.</p> - -<p>In the north wall of the choir is an early example of a tomb of peculiar -design (see <a href="#fig_545">Fig. 545</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_554" id="fig_554"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_142.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_142.png" width="275" height="315" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 554.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Caps in Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The remains of another monument exist at the passage from the choir to -the north aisle, but so mutilated that its design cannot be made out. -The details of the sedilia and piscina in the choir are also much -destroyed.</p> - -<p>A few specimens of the fine carved work collected amongst the ruins are -exhibited in the chapter house. Two of these are illustrated (<a href="#fig_554">Fig. 554</a>), -from which some idea of the richness and beauty of the details which -have perished may be gathered. These probably formed caps of the outer -piers of the nave aisles.</p> - -<p>The transepts contain some interesting monuments. In the south wall<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143">{143}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_555" id="fig_555"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_143.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_143.png" width="643" height="435" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 555.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Monuments in South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144">{144}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of the south transept, called the Innes aisle (<a href="#fig_555">Fig. 555</a>), is the -canopied monument, bearing the arms (said to be) of Alexander Stewart, -Duke of Albany, who died in 1481. The shield on the sinister side of the -tomb bears the fesse chequé and three antique crowns, the arms of the -lordship of Garioch. Another canopied monument in the south wall, to the -left of the above, is said to be that of Robert Innes of Innermarkie. -These monuments are late, and a good deal damaged. The coats of arms on -the shields do not correspond with those of the persons named above.</p> - -<p>The north transept, called the Dunbar aisle, also contains several -remnants of tombs. One in the north wall still retains the mutilated -effigy of Bishop Columba Dunbar (1422-35), and another that of Sir -Alexander Dunbar of Westfield, who died in 1497. In Slezer’s time the -north gable of this transept was complete, and showed in elevation two -stories of three single windows in each, surmounted by a triple light in -the gable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_556" id="fig_556"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_144.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_144.png" width="430" height="218" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 556.</span>—Elgin Cathedral. Monument of William Hay of -Lochley.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>One of the most interesting monuments in the cathedral is that of a -knight in full armour (<a href="#fig_556">Fig. 556</a>) near the entrance to the Lady Chapel. -It bears the following inscription:—“Hic jacet Wills de la Hay, quondam -dominus de Lochloy, qui obiit <small>VIII</small> die mensis Decembris Anno Domini -<small>MCCCCXXI</small>.” He was of the family to whom Inchoch Castle belonged, which -lies a short way west of Forres.<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a></p> - -<p>Amongst the mutilated fragments of sculpture preserved at the cathedral -is a portion of a gigantic statue, said to be that of Bishop John Innes -(1407-14). It was found at the base of the north-west pillar of the -central tower, of which that bishop commenced the erection. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145">{145}</a></span> -inscription on his tomb was as follows:—“Here lieth in Christ the Rev. -Father and Doctor of Divinity John de Innes who began this distinguished -edifice and for seven years sedulously continued the building.”<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> The -tower was rebuilt in 1538 (as already mentioned), and a representation -of it, as it existed in 1693, may be seen in Slezer’s view. It is there -shown as a plain, square erection, with a large window on each side, and -colossal statues at the angles. The so-called statue of “Bishop Innes” -is, doubtless, one of these; but whether it formed part of the original -tower of the fifteenth century, and was replaced on the rebuilt tower of -the sixteenth century, or was a new statue of the latter date, it is -difficult to decide.</p> - -<p>The following is a short epitome of the dates of the different portions -of the cathedral as pointed out in the foregoing description:—</p> - -<p>The transept was erected about the date of the foundation of the -cathedral in 1224. It may possibly have formed part of the previous -Church of the Trinity, but seems more likely to have been built after -the conversion into the cathedral.</p> - -<p>The western towers follow soon after, being of early first pointed work. -The western portal is somewhat later than the towers.</p> - -<p>The west part of the north wall of the choir appears to be older than -the remainder of that portion of the edifice, and this may possibly have -been part of the original Church of the Trinity; but the general work of -the choir and nave and the original chapter house would appear to have -been carried out during the thirteenth century. The first pointed work -would probably be all completed shortly before the War of Independence, -which stopped all architecture in Scotland for a long period.</p> - -<p>The cathedral was then practically completed, and so remained for about -a century.</p> - -<p>The next great change occurred after the destruction of the edifice by -the “Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390. The nave and chapter house would appear -to have been much destroyed, and were almost rebuilt during the -fifteenth century. The west front above the portal and the whole of the -nave were, doubtless, reconstructed about the time of Bishop Columba -Dunbar (1422-35). The chapter house appears to have been restored in the -time of Bishop David Stewart (1482-1501). The architecture of the nave -and chapter house corresponds with the respective dates of these -prelates, and also bears their coats of arms engraved on each -department.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146">{146}</a></span></p> - -<h3>PLUSCARDEN PRIORY, <span class="smcap">Morayshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This monastery was one of the three houses of the order of Valliscaulium -founded under Alexander <small>II.</small> in his recently acquired dominions in the -Highlands, the other houses of the order being at Beauly, in -Inverness-shire, and Ardchattan, in Argyleshire.</p> - -<p>The policy adopted by David <small>I.</small>, in the twelfth century, of extending -civilisation and order by the planting of religious houses, was thus -continued by his successor in the thirteenth century. We have seen how -Alexander <small>II.</small> encouraged the building of Elgin Cathedral, and it is -recorded that, besides the above monasteries, he endowed religious -houses in Elgin for the Dominicans and Franciscans.</p> - -<p>Pluscarden Priory stands in a long, well-sheltered valley, about six -miles south-west from Elgin. The hills on either side are of moderate -height, and the glen is well planted and cultivated. The priory, which -is dedicated to St. Andrew, stands on a level holm on the bank of the -Blackwater, and has a southern aspect at the base of a wooded hill. It -is surrounded with fine old trees, and the ancient gardens and precincts -of the monks are now cultivated as a thriving nursery, and kept in -beautiful order. Part of the ancient wall of the precinct, with a -gateway towards the east, is still preserved. The climate is mild and -suitable for the growth of vegetation, as is apparent from the very -luxuriant crop of ivy which covers the buildings and almost entirely -conceals their architecture.</p> - -<p>The first charter of Alexander <small>II.</small> is dated in 1236, and endows the -monastery with the whole valley of the Blackwater, and with mills in -Elgin.</p> - -<p>Little is heard of the priory for many years after its institution -beyond the usual disputes with the neighbouring lay proprietors -regarding boundaries, &c., but the establishment seems to have gradually -dwindled, and in 1398 the buildings had been allowed to fall into -disrepair. The election of Alexander as superior at that date proceeded -on the expectation that he would be able to defend the possessions of -the monastery and repair the church and dwellings of the monks.</p> - -<p>During the fifteenth century it seems to have fared ill with the -monastic establishments of Morayshire, for we find that the priory of -Urquhart, in that county, founded by David <small>I.</small> in 1125, had also dwindled -like Pluscarden.</p> - -<p>In 1454 John Benaly, prior of Urquhart, whose brethren consisted of only -two monks, petitions Pope Nicholas <small>V.</small> that he would unite the priory of -Urquhart to that of Pluscarden. He states that, owing to various -calamities, the income of the priories had so diminished that they were -unable to support a prior in each house with a decent and competent -number of religious men, or to keep up the buildings and services; so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147">{147}</a></span> -that in Pluscarden there were generally not above six monks, and in -Urquhart only two.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a></p> - -<p>It is stated by Shaw and other writers that the monks of Pluscarden had -become vicious, and that, therefore, the priory was reformed and made a -cell of Dunfermline.</p> - -<p>It appears, however, that the change arose as above described, and, -after due inquiry, William de Boys, Sacristan of Dunfermline, was, in -1460, appointed Prior of Pluscarden and Urquhart, and John de Benaly, -formerly Prior of Urquhart, was made Sacristan of Dunfermline. The -Valliscaulians, or White Monks, were then superseded by the Black -Benedictine Monks from Dunfermline, and the priory became dependent on -that house.</p> - -<p>The last Benedictine prior was Alexander Dunbar, who died in 1560, and -the first lay prior was Lord Alexander Seton, afterwards Earl of -Dunfermline, who obtained possession of the abbey and lands. The monks -do not appear to have been disturbed at the Reformation, but were -suffered to die out gradually, as one monk still remained in 1586. After -passing through the hands of various proprietors, the priory and lands -were acquired by the Earl of Fife, and are now the property of the Duke -of Fife, by whom the edifice and its surroundings are carefully attended -to and kept in good repair.</p> - -<p>The existing buildings (<a href="#fig_557">Fig. 557</a>, Plan) consist chiefly of the remains -of the church, comprising an aisleless choir, north and south transepts -with eastern aisles, and a square tower over the intersection. There is -no nave, that portion of the structure having, apparently, never been -erected. The monastic buildings consist of the sacristy, which lies to -the south of the transept, and is known as St. Mary’s aisle; the chapter -house; the slype and the monks’ hall, which all extend in a line further -southwards, the whole forming the east side of the cloisters. The -cloister garth measures 102 feet by 94 feet, and is surrounded by a wall -partly ancient. To the south-east lies a detached ruin, supposed to have -been the prior’s house. The oldest parts of the edifice are the -transepts, with their eastern aisles, which are in the first pointed -style, and were, doubtless, built during the thirteenth century, soon -after the foundation. The transept measures 93 feet 6 inches in length, -and, including the aisles, is 46 feet in width within the walls.</p> - -<p>The sacristy, or lady chapel, which extends along the full breadth of -the south end of the transept and aisle, is probably of the same date. -The design of the north end of the transept (<a href="#fig_558">Fig. 558</a>), which was -probably built about the same time as Elgin Cathedral, has some -resemblance to the east end of the choir of that edifice, but is much -plainer. It exhibits two stories of pointed windows, with a large -circular window above, now built up. This wall also contains the only -well-preserved<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">{148}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_557" id="fig_557"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_148.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_148.png" width="453" height="560" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 557.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">exterior door to the church. There is no triforium, but the clerestory -on the east side is lofty, and has internally a high pointed and -trefoiled<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149">{149}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_558" id="fig_558"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_149.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_149.png" width="392" height="546" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 558.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">arcade, with a passage in the thickness of the wall. Externally, the -windows of the clerestory of the north transept are plain pointed -arches. Throughout the building the windows are mostly designed as -triplet lancets, enclosed in one pointed arch (<a href="#fig_559">Fig. 559</a>). In some cases -the enclosing arch<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150">{150}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_559" id="fig_559"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_150.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_150.png" width="645" height="435" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 559.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151">{151}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_560" id="fig_560"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_151.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_151.png" width="296" height="413" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 560.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. East Side of South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">assumes a segmental pointed form, which enables the side lancets to be -carried higher than in the ordinary arch. This is observable in the -clerestory of the south transept (east side), both in the exterior and -interior (see <a href="#fig_559">Figs. 559</a> and <a href="#fig_560">560</a>). The mode in which the face of the wall -in the inside of the clerestory passage is carried in this position is -very effective, and well worthy of notice. A somewhat similar -arrangement is carried out in the clerestory on the west side of the -south transept (<a href="#fig_561">Fig. 561</a>), but is modified over the arch into the nave, -so as to allow of the wall passage being carried up a few steps in the -thickness of the wall. This arrangement forms a kind of triforium. The -moulded work of the transepts is simple, and the shafts, caps, and arch -mouldings are distinctly of first pointed date. But this part of the -structure has been dreadfully<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152">{152}</a></span> damaged, the shafts of the piers, with -their caps and bases, having all been burned, and have crumbled away, -presenting a most disfigured appearance. This appears to have been the -result of the fire afterwards referred to.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_561" id="fig_561"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_152.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_152.png" width="306" height="419" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 561.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. West Side of South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Both in the choir and the crossing there are signs of great alterations -and repairs. It is thought that the building must have suffered severely -from fire at some time, having probably been burned by the “Wolf of -Badenoch,” in 1390, when Elgin was destroyed. The work which has -subsequently been done indicates that a considerable amount of -strengthening was found necessary. The western piers of the crossing -have been in great part burned away, and are strengthened with new -masonry; and the opening between the north pier and the south pier is -built up (see Plan). On the east side of the crossing a plain double -wall has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">{153}</a></span> erected between the piers, so as to support the arch -above, which carries the tower. In this double wall an archway, only -about 7 feet in width, leads into the choir. To the north of the archway -a staircase in the centre of the double wall led apparently to a gallery -above, while the space within the double wall to the south of the -archway forms a large closet.</p> - -<p>Traces of painted decorations are still visible in the vault over this -part of the church. These consist now of a few gilt stars on a blue -ground; but when Cordiner wrote, about one hundred years ago, he was -able to identify the portrait of St. John under a canopy, accompanied by -his eagle, also a rainbow, and the sun, moon, and constellations.</p> - -<p>The choir, which has no aisles, measures 56 feet in length by 27 feet -wide internally. It has originally been constructed in a light manner, -with very wide window arches, having small piers and buttresses between -them, and it seems to have been vaulted, or intended for vaulting, the -springers of the vaults being visible in the interior (<a href="#fig_562">Fig. 562</a>). But -this mode of construction was evidently found too weak, and it became -necessary to partly build up the great arches of the windows and to -introduce much smaller windows within them. The choir is so densely -covered with ivy that these features are not easily detected on the -exterior (<a href="#fig_563">Fig. 563</a>), but in the interior view (see <a href="#fig_562">Fig. 562</a>) they are -plainly visible. At what period the choir was built it is difficult to -say. The exterior buttresses, so far as visible through the ivy, might -be considered of an early form, but they resemble those of the lady -chapel of Elgin and other structures in the North, which are not very -early. The large vesica piscis over the east window arch, and the -trefoiled triangle in the gable, are likewise rather late features (see -<a href="#fig_559">Fig. 559</a>). Keeping in view the great size of the intended windows, which -were clearly meant to be filled with tracery, and the small caps of the -jambs, both exterior and interior, the building may be ascribed to the -fifteenth century. Probably the first design with the very large -openings may have been carried out early in the fifteenth century, soon -after Alexander the prior was appointed, who was expected to improve the -buildings of the priory, which had fallen into decay.</p> - -<p>The insertion of the smaller windows, and the strengthening masonry -within the wide openings, may have formed part of the restoration of the -dilapidated structure which William de Boys would be sure to institute -when he and his Benedictines took possession of the priory in the middle -of the fifteenth century. We shall see that parts of the chapter house -and other portions of the structure may be attributed to the same -revival.</p> - -<p>The reduced side windows of the choir contain portions of late tracery, -and in the filled in mason work of each is inserted a dedication cross -(see <a href="#fig_562">Fig. 562</a>), which seems to point to a new dedication of the restored -edifice. The design of the smaller windows introduced within the arch<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154">{154}</a></span> -of the very large east window is remarkable (see <a href="#fig_559">Figs. 559</a> and <a href="#fig_562">562</a>). The -four small pointed arches, surmounted by a traceried window above, -faintly recall the east windows of Elgin Cathedral, while the peculiar -tracery of the upper window plainly indicates a very late date.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_562" id="fig_562"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_154.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_154.png" width="438" height="527" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 562.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. Interior of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155">{155}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_563" id="fig_563"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_155.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_155.png" width="439" height="552" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 563.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. Tower, and South-East Angle -of Choir and Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The square tower over the crossing is seen (see <a href="#fig_563">Fig. 563</a>) to rise -externally only a short way above the apex of the roofs of the choir -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156">{156}</a></span> transept. Like the choir, it has been intended to be vaulted, the -springing stones being still visible (see <a href="#fig_558">Fig. 558</a>); but the supports -were either found to be too light, or were so damaged by the fire that, -as above mentioned, the piers and arches had to be strengthened with -supporting walls brought up from the foundation. The upper part of the -tower appears to have originally been of the date of the transept, and -to have been restored, like the rest of the edifice, at a later period. -This is evident from the shape of the window openings, which are of -first pointed work, and also from the corbels of the parapet, some of -which are original and of early form, while others, which have been -restored, are of the late form common in the churches and castles of the -fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The large trefoil apertures have -suffered from the fire, and have been built up.</p> - -<p>To the north of the choir is a small vaulted structure about 16 feet -square, called the Dunbar Vestry (see Plan). It is evidently of late -date, and its style supports the tradition that it was erected by Prior -Dunbar shortly before the Reformation. It is vaulted, and bears the arms -of Dunbar on one of the bosses.<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_564" id="fig_564"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_156.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_156.png" width="182" height="282" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 564.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. Sacrament House in Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Apparently of the same date is the sacrament house (<a href="#fig_564">Fig. 564</a>) inserted -in the north wall of the choir, and a door between the choir and vestry, -which has the three-sided arch common at the period. On the north side -of the vestry are some remains of a door and wheel stair, the latter of -which appears to have led to the roof. The position of the vestry is -very awkward, being placed within two feet of the transept aisle, the -windows of which are thus almost obscured by it.</p> - -<p>The part of the church lying immediately to the south of the transept is -called the sacristy, or the lady chapel. It is vaulted, and from the -form of the mouldings, caps, window, &c., is evidently of the same date -as the transept. The vaulting at the west end has been partly rebuilt, -and a fireproof closet formed in the angle, no doubt for the purpose of -containing valuables used in the service. At the east end a ruined -opening into the transept seems to have been a squint to allow the -service<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157">{157}</a></span> at the altar to be seen from the transept. Traces of colour are -still observable here, but in Cordiner’s time many emblematic paintings -were visible.</p> - -<p>To the south of the sacristy is the chapter house, and beyond it the -slype. These have been restored within recent times, and the east -windows renewed in the same pointed segmental form as the old ones. The -doors and windows to the west have also been partly renewed.</p> - -<p>The sketch of the chapter house (<a href="#fig_565">Fig. 565</a>) shows the interior looking -north-west, with the double door and two side windows which face the -cloister. The apartment is about 29 feet square, and has a central -pillar on which the vaulting rests. A figure of the Agnus Dei may be -observed on one of the bosses. The chapter house has evidently, from the -first pointed details visible in the door, windows, and corbels, been -erected in the thirteenth century; but the details of the central -pillar, with its slender shafts introduced amongst the mouldings, -clearly indicate a restoration of the chapter house at a date well -advanced in the fifteenth century. The fireplace is of modern design.</p> - -<p>Still further to the south is the monks’ hall or fratry (<a href="#fig_566">Fig. 566</a>), a -chamber 45 feet long by 28 feet wide. It is vaulted, and the vaulting is -carried by two central pillars. These are plain octagons, into which the -chamfered ribs of the arches die. The tracery in the window at the south -end is modern, but the large opening is old, having been made so as to -admit as much sunshine as possible from the south. This apartment is now -used for service by the Free Church of the district, and contains the -old pulpit, brought from the ancient church of St. Giles in Elgin, when -it was rebuilt, an interesting example of florid Renaissance carving. -There can be little doubt but that all these buildings south from the -lady chapel belong chiefly to the restoration instituted by the -Benedictines in the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>In the interior of the south-west angle of the transept may be observed -a wide stone staircase. This leads to the upper floor of the buildings -which lie to the south of the transept, and were formerly the monks’ -dormitories. One small room over the lady chapel may possibly have been -a scriptorium or an oratory. This part of the domestic edifices has now -been restored and roofed in, and set aside by the Duke of Fife as a -place of shelter and amusement for the visitors to the priory.</p> - -<p>The cloister garth is planted with shrubs and kept in good order. Owing -to the slope of the ground there have been steps up to the south -entrance to the garth, and there still remain steps at the north door, -which is a semicircular doorway of good, though late, design. It is -evidently meant for a reproduction of Norman work.</p> - -<p>Another doorway is still preserved at the south-west angle of the -cloister, which was probably the entrance to the refectory. Owing to -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158">{158}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_565" id="fig_565"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_158.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_158.png" width="563" height="438" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 565.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. Chapter House, looking -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159">{159}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_566" id="fig_566"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_159.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_159.png" width="559" height="434" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 566.</span>—Pluscarden Priory. Interior of Fratery.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160">{160}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">slope of the ground, the refectory and fratry have been raised on -vaulted cellars.</p> - -<p>Of the prior’s house only the ruins of some of the walls remain. These -show that it has been extensive, but there are no features to give a -clue to its date. Some remains of the priory mill, which adjoined the -prior’s house, are also still observable.</p> - -<h3>ST. MUNGO’S CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Glasgow</span>.</h3> - -<p>The site on which this cathedral stands has been devoted from very -ancient times to religious uses. It is associated with the name of St. -Ninian, who is reported to have founded a church here in the beginning -of the fifth century. This site was also the scene of the labours of St. -Kentigern, or Mungo, who revived religion in the locality in the sixth -century, and is said to have established an episcopal see. Here the -meeting took place between him and St. Columba, on which occasion, as a -sign of friendship, they exchanged their pastoral staves. The place was -further sanctified by becoming the last resting-place of St. Mungo’s -remains.</p> - -<p>During the political changes which occurred in Strathclyde in the -following centuries Christianity seems to have been almost obliterated. -But in the twelfth century the revival of religion begun by Queen -Margaret had penetrated into this region, and was fostered by her son -David, Prince of Cumbria. In 1115 he restored the see of Glasgow, and -appointed his tutor John (called Achaius) to the bishopric. In order to -provide it with suitable means, an inquisition was made, in 1120, -concerning the lands which had formerly belonged to the church of -Glasgow. In 1124, John, the first of the new line of bishops, began to -replace the ancient church which had previously existed with a new -structure, which was doubtless raised on the site of the old one. This -church was consecrated in 1136, in presence of the king and his retinue.</p> - -<p>Bishop Joceline, previously abbot of Melrose, was consecrated in 1175. -Under him, and by his influence, the burgh received many privileges, and -advanced in prosperity. Between 1189 and 1192 he was engaged in -restoring or adding to the building.</p> - -<p>The original church of Bishop John, “built, perhaps, chiefly of wood,” -had been recently destroyed by fire. Through the exertions of Bishop -Joceline a society was founded to collect funds for its restoration, and -the work was sufficiently advanced for consecration on 6th July -1197.<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p> - -<p>It was generally believed, at one time, that the existing choir and -lower church were erected by Bishop Joceline; but it has been shown by -Mr. John Honeyman, architect, in various papers on the subject, -published at various times during the last forty years, that only a -small<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161">{161}</a></span> part of the structure which now exists may possibly be of the -time of that bishop.</p> - -<p>According to Mr. Honeyman, a portion of the lower church, situated at -its south-west angle, and extending from the transept eastwards to the -third buttress of the choir, and including one bay and a half, shows -some differences in its style of architecture from the remainder, and -may be regarded as of the transition style, and may thus be of the date -of Bishop Joceline; while the remainder of the lower church and the -whole of the choir are built in the first pointed style, and cannot be -earlier than the second quarter of the thirteenth century. The actual -builder of the lower church and the choir above, as they now exist, was -Bishop William de Bondington (1233-1258). A large part of the structure -was completed before his death in the latter year, and the style of the -work thoroughly corresponds with his period. In 1242 an ordinance was -made for a national collection annually during Lent in aid of the -building.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a></p> - -<p>According to Mr. Honeyman, the foundations of the nave were laid, and -part of the walls was carried up, before the building of the choir was -begun.</p> - -<p>Most of the nave appears, from the style of its architecture, to have -been chiefly erected at the end of the thirteenth or the beginning of -the fourteenth century, but there is no record of its construction. It -forms one of the finest examples of the late first pointed or early -decorated style in Scotland.</p> - -<p>Bishop Wishart occupied the see during the greater part of the War of -Independence, and supported the Scottish party on all occasions. He -obtained permission from Edward <small>I.</small> to cut timber in the forest of Luss -for the purpose of erecting the spire of the cathedral; and it was one -of the causes of accusation against him which led to his imprisonment in -England that he had used the timber so obtained, not for building the -spire, but for making engines of war with which to attack Edward’s -forces.</p> - -<p>The wooden spire of the cathedral, which was erected during the -fourteenth century, was struck by lightning and destroyed in 1400. A new -tower of masonry was erected over the crossing by Bishop Lauder -(1408-25), who carried the work as high as the main parapet. This bishop -appears also to have begun the completion of the chapter house, a -detached structure lying to the north-east of the choir. The walls of -this building were partly erected about the time of the construction of -the choir, but were afterwards raised to two stories in height and -vaulted by Bishop Cameron.</p> - -<p>Bishop Lauder was succeeded, in 1425, by Bishop Cameron, called “The -Magnificent,” from his lavish expenditure and the splendour of his -Court. He erected the stone spire above the tower of Bishop Lauder, and -also completed the chapter house wing containing the sacristy on the -upper floor and the chapter house on the ground floor. His arms are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162">{162}</a></span> -still to be seen on the portions of the structure erected by him. The -beautiful rood screen was also probably constructed by him.</p> - -<p>During Bishop Cameron’s reign the episcopal see was at the highest point -of its power and splendour. The prebendaries, who were originally seven -in number, were now increased to thirty-two, and the bishop required -that they should all have manses,<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> and reside near the cathedral. The -Episcopal Court thus became of great extent and importance, and was said -to rival that of the king. Bishop Cameron died in 1446. He was succeeded -by Bishop William Turnbull, the founder of Glasgow University. His arms -appear on the upper part of the chapter house wing.</p> - -<p>Bishop Robert Blackadder was consecrated in 1484. We have already met -with this prelate in connection with Jedburgh Abbey and Edrom Church. In -his time the see was erected into an archbishopric. A building in -continuation of the south transept, called Blackadder’s Aisle, was -partly erected by him, but was never carried higher than the ground -story or crypt. This archbishop was the last occupant of the see who -added much to the adornments of the cathedral. He founded altarages, and -erected two altars, on which his arms and initials are carved, in front -of the rood screen.</p> - -<p>Towards the middle of the sixteenth century, it became apparent that the -end of the episcopal reign was approaching. Archbishop James Beaton -first withdrew all the treasures and valuables from the cathedral into -the bishop’s castle; but, finding himself and them insecure there, he -retired to France, taking with him what valuables he could, and also the -records of the see from the earliest period. The latter were deposited -in the Scots College in Paris, and at the time of the French Revolution -they were partially saved by the Abbé Macpherson, and sent back to -Scotland.</p> - -<p>These records have now been published by the Maitland Club under the -title of <i>Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis</i>, with a valuable -introduction by the editor, Professor Cosmo Innes.</p> - -<p>The cathedral is situated on steep ground sloping eastwards towards the -Molindinar Burn, which here runs through a narrow valley on its way -southward to the Clyde, which is only a short distance off. Opposite the -cathedral, on the eastern bank of the burn, there rises a steep conical -hill, now a many-monumented cemetery, from which fine bird’s-eye views -of the building may be obtained. The surroundings of the edifice have -changed many times since it was built. Till after the Reformation there -stood at the west end of the cathedral the Bishop’s Palace, a great -fortress covering some acres of ground; but of its many buildings, -walls, and towers not a shadow is left. The manses of the prebends have -likewise disappeared, and even the Molindinar Burn is buried as a sewer -deep below the present surface of the valley. The cathedral is -surrounded by the old churchyard, a large open space free from houses, -and the structure can thus be well seen on all sides.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163">{163}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_567" id="fig_567"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_163.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_163.png" width="460" height="423" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 567.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View from West, showing -Western Adjuncts, now removed.<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Although built at different dates, the edifice has a very homogeneous -appearance, and might easily be mistaken at first sight for a building -of one period. The structure has a gaunt and stern aspect, and greatly -wants some salient features to break its rigid outline. Such features -existed till about the middle of this century in the shape of two -projecting adjuncts at the west end (<a href="#fig_567">Fig. 567</a>), the one on the north -side being a tower crowned with a pointed roof, and the other, called -the consistory house, being a lower building, which finished like a pele -tower with a crow-stepped roof and a cape house. These structures have -now been removed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">{164}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_568" id="fig_568"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_164.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_164.png" width="434" height="445" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 568.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the external length of the church, a distance of about 330 feet, the -ground falls from west to east about 15 feet. This fall required the -walls of the eastern part to be raised so as to bring them up to the -level of the western part, and this under-building was made available as -a lower church. This lower church forms one of the finest and most -characteristic features of the edifice. It extends the whole length from -the transept to the east end, and is entirely above ground. It is -supposed that the building has been placed on this sloping ground, and -not on the higher and leveller site a little to the westwards, in order -that the most sacred part, containing the high altar, might be situated -immediately over the sup<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">{165}</a></span>posed site of the original tomb of St. Mungo, -which would, doubtless, be beneath the east end of the primitive church.</p> - -<p>The cathedral, as seen from the east end, with the lower church and the -choir towering above it, is very lofty and imposing (<a href="#fig_568">Fig. 568</a>), and -surpasses the view obtained from the west end (<a href="#fig_569">Fig. 569</a>) on emerging -from the streets of the city.</p> - -<p>The edifice consists (<a href="#fig_570">Fig. 570</a>) of a nave of eight bays, with side -aisles measuring about 122 feet in length by 61 feet 9 inches in breadth -within the walls (the whole length of the edifice being of this width); -transepts, which do not project beyond the aisles; a choir of five bays, -with side aisles and an aisle at the east end of the same height as the -north and south aisles, with chapels beyond it. Entering from one of the -eastern chapels is the sacristy or vestiarium at the north-east corner -of the choir. A wide staircase leads down from the crossing on each side -to the lower church, or crypt, as it is usually called (<a href="#fig_571">Fig. 571</a>), and -from the lower church is the entrance to the chapter house, immediately -below the sacristy. On the south side of the church, and in continuation -of the south transept, is situated another low church or crypt, called -“Blackadder’s Aisle;” and on the north side, opposite the west bay of -the choir, are the foundations of what has apparently been intended to -be a large chapel. Over the crossing rise the tower and spire to the -height of 217 feet. The church measures about 283 feet in length by 61 -feet 9 inches in breadth within the walls, and the central alley of the -nave and choir measures between the pillars about 25 feet 3 inches.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, the most ancient part of the structure, according -to Mr. Honeyman, is the portion of the lower church at the south-west -angle. Mr. Honeyman’s theory is that the church built by Bishop John -(Achaius) was restored by Bishop Joceline at the end of the twelfth -century, and that the above portion at the south-west angle formed a -chapel, and was part of that restoration.<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> He supposes that this -chapel, situated in a corner of the old building least likely to be -interfered with by the proposed operations, had been preserved as a -receptacle for relics while the choir and lower church were being -rebuilt by Bishop Bondington in the thirteenth century. Mr. Honeyman -points out that one shaft and cap in the east wall of the above chapel -and part of the wall adjoining, into which the shaft-stones are bonded, -are of the transition style, and correspond with some other fragments of -the same style which have been discovered lying loose, and which all -appear to have been part of the work carried out in Bishop Joceline’s -time. The vaulting of this south-west chapel is also of transition -character; but from other indications it is thought that this vault has -probably been rebuilt with old materials. These indications are that the -shafts, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166">{166}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_569" id="fig_569"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_166.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_166.png" width="424" height="586" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 569.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View from West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167">{167}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_570" id="fig_570"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_167.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_167.png" width="626" height="329" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 570.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan of Nave and -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168">{168}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_571" id="fig_571"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_168.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_168.png" width="457" height="390" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 571.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan of Lower Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">their caps and bases, both of the north and south sides of the chapel, -are of later character, those of the south side being similar to the -corresponding features of the nave and those of the north side -resembling the same features in the lower church, and having been, -doubtless, renewed when the lower church was re-erected. The floor of -this south-west chapel is 15 inches above the level of that of the lower -church. The exterior base differs in design from that of the rest of the -lower church, and indicates an earlier date. Mr. Honeyman is of opinion -that when the south staircase to the lower church was erected this small -chapel stood in the way, and prevented the stair from being carried out -in the same manner as that on the north side, which was executed -according to the architect’s design. The eastern wall of the chapel was -afterwards cut through so as to provide access from the south stair to -the lower church. The north staircase to the lower church was not -impeded, as the south one was, by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169">{169}</a></span> above chapel, but was carried out -according to the architect’s design, and possesses a handsome early -pointed doorway, where it enters the lower church.</p> - -<p>Mr. Honeyman then goes on to show that the same base as existed on the -outside of the ancient south-west chapel is continued round the nave, -which fact supports his view that the nave was founded and the walls -partly erected before the choir was built by Bishop Bondington. As -pointed out by Mr. Honeyman, the bases of the vaulting shafts and part -of the side walls of the nave aisles (more on the north side than the -south side) were apparently executed at an earlier date than the choir. -“The bases of the shafts on the bench-table of the aisles, with their -delicate mouldings and square plinths, belong to an earlier period than -anything to be seen in the choir.” But when Bishop Bondington came on -the scene and resolved to reconstruct the whole choir, the work at the -nave was stopped, not to be resumed for about a century.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_572" id="fig_572"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_169.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_169.png" width="280" height="182" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 572.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan and Section of -Respond and Base of Nave Aisles.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>With reference to Mr. Honeyman’s views, as explained above, there is, -undoubtedly, considerable difficulty in accounting for the numerous -peculiarities of the small chamber or chapel at the south-west angle of -the lower church; and it is quite likely, as Mr. Honeyman suggests, that -this may have been part of an earlier building preserved when Bishop -Bondington carried out the work at the choir and lower church. That -there was a good deal of early thirteenth century work done in the nave -there can scarcely be any doubt. Indeed, it is owing to the nave having -been commenced with this early work that it has retained, in its later -portions, which form the completion of the work formerly begun, so much -of a first pointed character. The annexed sketch (<a href="#fig_572">Fig. 572</a>) shows the -plan and section of the lower part of the responds of the nave aisles -which Mr. Honeyman relies on for proving their early character as -com<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170">{170}</a></span>pared with the work in the choir; and this will be at once -recognised in the keel-shaped shaft and the square plinths and delicate -mouldings of the bases. The junction of the external base of the -south-west angle or chapel with that of the lower church and the -sections of the bases are also shown (<a href="#fig_573">Fig. 573</a>). The earlier and simpler -character of the base of the south-west angle is apparent. This early -base is continued round the whole of the nave (passing through -Blackadder’s Aisle), and corresponds in style with the early design of -the bases of the interior wall shafts of the nave shown above.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_573" id="fig_573"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_170-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_170-a.png" width="353" height="201" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 573.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Buttresses at -South-West Chapel, and Sections of Bases of Nave, Choir, and -Blackadder’s Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the south wall of the south-west angle or chapel there is a shaft -with the same plan as the responds in the nave aisles, having, like -them, the keel edge and cap with first pointed mouldings (<a href="#fig_574">Fig. 574</a>); -while in the lower church and choir the angle shafts have all the fillet -on edge and first pointed caps, as shown in the same Figure.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_574" id="fig_574"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_170-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_170-b.png" width="140" height="138" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 574.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. <br />Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>That there has been transition work in connection with the building is -evident from the fragments preserved in the chapter house, of which -specimens are shown (<a href="#fig_575">Fig. 575</a>). Some pieces of groin ribs (<a href="#fig_576">Fig. 576</a>) are -also preserved, which have a similar section to those of the south-west -angle or chapel, and a transition base with square plinth and spurs at -the angles. These transition fragments confirm Mr. Honeyman’s view as to -the vault of the south-west chapel having been constructed with old<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171">{171}</a></span> -materials when the north wall of the chapel (the details of which -correspond with those of the lower church) was rebuilt and the chapel -converted into a passage to the lower church.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_575" id="fig_575"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_171-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_171-a.png" width="329" height="189" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 575.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Fragments in Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is most difficult, owing to the darkness of the place, to obtain -accurate sketches, but the annexed diagram (<a href="#fig_577">Fig. 577</a>) gives an idea of -the shaft in the east wall of the south-west chapel and its cap, on -which Mr. Honeyman lays stress as proving their transition character. -The abacus is transitional in section, but the carving is undoubtedly -first pointed. Mr. Honeyman thinks that the cap may have been left rough -at first, and the carving executed in first pointed times.</p> - -<p>Whether this shaft and cap and the vaulting of the south-west chapel are -transitional, or of the early first pointed date of the lower part of -the nave walls, there can be no doubt that Mr. Honeyman’s main -contention is correct—viz., that part of the south-west chapel and the -lower part of the walls of the nave were constructed before the -rebuilding of the lower church and choir was carried out by Bishop -Bondington about the middle of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_576" id="fig_576"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_171-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_171-b.png" width="101" height="84" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 576.</span></p> - -<p>St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Detached Rib.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The lower church (see <a href="#fig_571">Fig. 571</a>) is about 125 feet long, and is about 17 -feet in height at the west end; but owing to a fall in the level of the -floor at the east end, the height of the vault at that end measures -about 4 feet more than at the west end. From the choir floor to the -floor of the lower church the height is about 19 feet 3 inches. In order -to obtain this height, the floor of the choir is raised about 3 feet -above that of the nave. The height of the choir from the floor to the -apex of the roof inside is 74 feet 6 inches.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172">{172}</a></span></p> - -<p>The following are the entrance doorways to the cathedral—viz., a wide -double entrance doorway at the west end of the nave, and a south doorway -in the second bay from the west end. There are also north and south -doorways in the lower church, and a doorway from the landing of the -north stair to the lower church.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_577" id="fig_577"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_172.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_172.png" width="173" height="266" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 577.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Pillar and Rib in South-West Angle of<br /> Lower Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The lower church (see <a href="#fig_571">Fig. 571</a>), supporting as it does the choir with -its aisles and the east aisle with its chapels above, conforms in its -structural arrangements to the plan of the upper church. Thus all the -pillars in the simpler plan above are supported by pillars in the more -complicated plan below. In the latter, between each of the main piers of -the arcade, lesser piers are introduced; so that while there are four -pillars and five bays on each side of the choir above, there are nine -pillars and ten bays in the church beneath. The central area of the -lower church is further subdivided by a simple and beautiful scheme of -pillars and vaulting, which is arranged in the following manner -(<a href="#fig_578">Fig. 578</a>). A central shrine of four slender pillars (<a href="#fig_579">Fig. 579</a>) is placed -opposite the sixth bay, counting from the eastern aisle, and is situated -under the high altar of the choir. This shrine is made the centre of the -scheme for the vaulting of three bays on each side; the remaining bays -on the east and west being treated so as to form a variety both in the -piers and vaults. From the shrine as a centre a single central pillar is -introduced in the spaces to the east and west, and in the bays beyond -them two pillars are introduced in the breadth, and the vaulting is -varied so as to suit this arrangement of the pillars (<a href="#fig_580">Figs. 580</a> and -<a href="#fig_581">581</a>). The vaulting of the lower church is a masterpiece of design, and -produces by very simple means a wonderful variety of effect. It is -analysed by Sir G. Gilbert Scott in his lectures, and greatly commended. -This vault has been the subject of very careful examination by Mr. T. L. -Watson, architect, Glasgow, who points out that it must have been -erected at a later period than the rest of the choir. This he proves -from the mouldings, which are of a later character than those of the -choir. His view is that the original intention was to vault the central -aisle with a series of cross vaults similar to those in the side aisles, -and he points out that the springers for these vaults were built along -with the piers. The central<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173">{173}</a></span> vault, however, was delayed for convenience -of building operations till after the upper portions of the choir were -finished, and, when this vault came to be executed, the architect had -devised the more beautiful scheme which is actually carried out. This -required some alteration of the springers, and Mr. Watson draws -attention to the points where the alterations are visible. He also -points out that the two central east windows of the lower church are -different from the others (see <a href="#fig_568">Fig. 568</a>). The latter are all double -lancets, whereas the former have each one large arch enclosing two -smaller ones. The larger arches would be left open during the progress -of the work for the introduction of building materials, and the filling -in of the smaller arches would be done after the building was completed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_578" id="fig_578"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_173.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_173.png" width="426" height="396" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 578.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Plan of Lower Church, -showing the Vaulting.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The new scheme of vaulting was, doubtless, so arranged as to leave<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174">{174}</a></span> the -original grave of St. Mungo undisturbed, and allow the new shrine to be -erected over the sacred spot.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_579" id="fig_579"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_174.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_174.png" width="435" height="501" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 579.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Shrine in Lower Church, -from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The eastern part of the lower church is treated in a manner similar to -the east aisle and chapels over it, except that in the former the -chapels are divided by solid walls (containing arched openings) running -between the piers and the east wall. The object of these cross walls has -been to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175">{175}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_580" id="fig_580"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_175.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_175.png" width="419" height="553" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 580.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Lower Church: Bay near -East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">give solidity to the lower part of the structure. In the upper church -the pillars between the aisle and the eastern chapels stand free, but to -have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176">{176}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_581" id="fig_581"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_176.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_176.png" width="422" height="556" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 581.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Lower Church, near East -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">continued these free standing piers down through the lower church would -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177">{177}</a></span>have made the construction weak. Even with the walls between the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_583" id="fig_583"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_177.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_177.png" width="425" height="630" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 583.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Doorway to Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178">{178}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">chapels in the lower church the construction has proved insufficient, -and at this part of the edifice considerable signs of disturbance are -observable. The cross walls contain open arches, each with a piscina and -credence table; and the central one contains a monument. This is -believed to be the effigy of Bishop Wishart (<a href="#fig_582">Fig. 582</a>), but as the space -is too short to contain it, the lion at the feet has had to be cut away -in order to enable the effigy to be placed where it is. It, therefore, -seems to have been brought from another site.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_582" id="fig_582"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_178-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_178-a.png" width="409" height="139" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 582.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Effigy in Lower -Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the northmost chapel is the entrance to the chapter house, which -corresponds in style with the lower church (<a href="#fig_583">Fig. 583</a>), and has -apparently been built about the same period. The main wall shafts of the -chapter house (<a href="#fig_584">Fig. 584</a>), with their rounded and moulded caps and bases, -correspond with those of the lower church, and the windows are also of -corresponding design (see <a href="#fig_597">Fig. 597</a>), except that the external bases of -the window shafts are of a later date. The chapter house would appear to -have been left incomplete for a long period, and to have been heightened -and finished in the fifteenth century, as will be pointed out. The -doorway (see <a href="#fig_583">Fig. 583</a>), which is in the first pointed style and very -ornamental, was evidently designed to give access to it.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_584" id="fig_584"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_178-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_178-b.png" width="199" height="210" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 584.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Details of Wall Shafts of Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The plain cross vaulting of the side aisles of the lower church -corre<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179">{179}</a></span>sponds with the piers of the subdivided bays, and on the exterior, -opposite each intermediate pillar (see <a href="#fig_568">Fig. 568</a>), there is a buttress of -lesser dimensions than the main buttresses opposite the main piers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_585" id="fig_585"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_179.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_179.png" width="424" height="498" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 585.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. South Doorway to Lower -Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The lower church was formerly well lighted with numerous lancet windows, -but, unfortunately, these have been filled, within the last thirty -years, with dark-coloured glass, so that, without the aid of lamps, this -almost unrivalled specimen of mediæval architecture is obscured from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180">{180}</a></span> -view. Only those whose memory goes back to before the above time can -form a proper idea of the beauty and purity of its details.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_586" id="fig_586"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_180.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_180.png" width="431" height="557" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 586.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Eastern Aisle and -Chapels, looking North.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is a well about 18 feet deep, built with ashlar, at the east end<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181">{181}</a></span> -of the south wall, and near it an altar tomb to one of the family of the -Colquhouns of Luss, whose arms it bears. The well may have contributed -to the weakness of this part of the edifice; but although the upper part -of the building is as much as 18 inches off the plumb, there is no -appearance of any settlement at the base. The wall seems to have -suffered from a thrust outwards while in course of erection, as the -upper story is set back from the lower portion, which is off the plumb.</p> - -<p>The south doorway of the lower church (<a href="#fig_585">Fig. 585</a>) is a very simple and -beautiful design, and forms a porch projecting as far as the buttresses. -It has a groined ceiling covered with a sloping stone roof. Immediately -opposite the south doorway there is a north entrance to the lower -church, which has a moulded pointed arch head, but no porch.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_587" id="fig_587"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_181.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_181.png" width="235" height="231" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 587.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Section of Piers.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The interior of the choir is a noble specimen of first pointed design. A -striking and unusual feature of the plan is the ambulatory aisle which -runs round the east end (see <a href="#fig_570">Fig. 570</a>), having four chapels beyond it to -the east, as above mentioned. These chapels are not divided, like those -in the lower church, by walls, but are quite open, and the pillars stand -free. The view (<a href="#fig_586">Fig. 586</a>) shows that the pillars are slender and -clustered, with dog-tooth mouldings in the hollows. Their section is -shown in Fig. 587. The caps are rounded and moulded, while those of the -wall shafts are carved with foliage. <a href="#fig_588">Fig. 588</a> shows the south-east bay -of the east end. The piscina seen in the south-east angle has the drain -carried direct to the outside, and is not carried down to the ground, as -usual. The vaulting here is of later date than the rest of the work, as -is apparent from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182">{182}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_588" id="fig_588"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_182.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_182.png" width="435" height="640" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 588.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. South Chapel at East -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183">{183}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_589" id="fig_589"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_183.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_183.png" width="434" height="555" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 589.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. North-East Angle of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">sections of the ribs. As the vaulting was, doubtless, much dislocated by -the disturbance which has taken place at the south-east corner, it may<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184">{184}</a></span> -have been rebuilt; or, as Mr. Watson points out, it may have been -delayed till after the vaulting of the lower church was completed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_590" id="fig_590"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_184.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_184.png" width="435" height="561" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 590.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. South Doorway of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The main arcade is carried round the east end of the choir (<a href="#fig_589">Fig. 589</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185">{185}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_591" id="fig_591"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_185.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_185.png" width="449" height="666" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 591.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Transverse Section -through Choir and Lower Church, looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186">{186}</a></span></p> - -<p>To accomplish this, with arches of about the same width as those of the -side aisles, the wall had to be divided into two bays having a central -pillar, which is not a pleasing feature. Above the main arcade rises the -east wall of the cathedral, pierced with four graceful lancets (see -<a href="#fig_591">Fig. 591</a>).<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> This arrangement of a central mullion in the large upper -window was almost rendered necessary in order to carry up the design of -the single pillar in the centre of the main arcade, otherwise a central -light, as at Salisbury, would doubtless have been preferable.</p> - -<p>Churches with an eastern ambulatory are occasionally to be met with in -England, a fine example being the church of the Abbey of Dore, in -Hertfordshire. This ambulatory aisle is the British equivalent for the -aisle which is generally carried round foreign apses, and from which the -apsidal chapels open.</p> - -<p>A similar plan to that of the eastern end of Glasgow Cathedral was -reproduced at Rosslyn Collegiate Church two hundred years later, -although with very different details and on a greatly reduced scale.</p> - -<p>Each bay of the choir (see <a href="#fig_589">Fig. 589</a>) rises from clustered pillars having -numerous attached shafts and mouldings (see <a href="#fig_587">Fig. 587</a>), and caps -elaborately carved with first pointed foliage. The triforium gallery -contains two pointed openings, each embracing two smaller arches, and -having trefoil and quatrefoil apertures in the spandrils. The clerestory -consists of a double wall, with passage between. It has three pointed -lights of equal height in the outer wall, and three corresponding -openings in the interior, with boldly moulded shafts and arches. A small -sharply pointed arch is introduced at each side of the main vaulting -shafts. The caps on each floor are all of rounded form.</p> - -<p>The south doorway of the nave (<a href="#fig_591">Fig. 591</a>) (now forming the principal -entrance to the church) is, like that of the lower church, inserted -between two buttresses; but it has no projecting porch, and finishes -with a flat roof, above which the top of an ordinary traceried window is -seen in the plane of the wall. To give importance to this entrance the -flanking buttresses are finished at the top with niches for statues, and -in connection with the corbels under these occur the only pieces of -foliaged carving to be seen in the whole nave.</p> - -<p>The western doorway (see <a href="#fig_569">Fig. 569</a>) contains two openings with a solid -mullion between. This part of the structure has evidently been greatly -repaired and altered when the western adjuncts above referred to were -removed.</p> - -<p>The whole of the cathedral is vaulted except the central alleys of the -nave and choir. Vaulting shafts are carried up in the nave (<a href="#fig_592">Fig. 592</a>) -from the string course above the main arcade, and in the choir (see -<a href="#fig_589">Fig. 589</a>) from the caps of the main piers to the wall head, as if the idea of -vaulting the central area had been contemplated; but it is quite<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187">{187}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_592" id="fig_592"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_187.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_187.png" width="418" height="558" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 592.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. North Side of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">evident from the smallness of the buttresses of the clerestory -(<a href="#fig_593">Fig. 593</a>) that the walls were not calculated to resist the strain which such -a vault<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">{188}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_593" id="fig_593"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_188.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_188.png" width="429" height="546" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 593.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. View of South Side, -looking West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">would have brought against them. The present vaulting beneath the -central tower is modern, as also are the plaster ceilings of nave and -choir. The vault of the north aisle of the choir has ribs of an early -form, while those of the south aisle are of a later design (<a href="#fig_594">Fig. 594</a>). -On the panels of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189">{189}</a></span> the latter vault there are a number of figures, -comprising the symbols of the evangelists, &c.</p> - -<p>The bays of the nave are divided by clustered piers of smaller size and -later shape than those of the choir (see <a href="#fig_587">Fig. 587</a>), and the moulded caps -(which follow the outline of the shafts and hollows of the piers) are -also of later character. Each bay of the triforium and clerestory -(<a href="#fig_592">Fig. 592</a>) is divided into two openings, and has shafts running up through the -whole height, which unite the two stories into one, a design which -produces a striking effect. The triforium openings of the nave, although -not without great vigour, are perhaps the most rudely executed features -in the whole building. The jamb and arch mouldings accommodate -themselves to each other in an awkward manner, and the fitting in of the -uncouth trefoil tracery is quite a contrast to the fine finishing of the -clerestory above. It is not easy to account for the careless work in the -triforium, as the upper part of the nave appears to have been all -executed about one period. The coarse workmanship is much more striking -in the building than can be shown by drawings on a small scale.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_594" id="fig_594"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_189.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_189.png" width="148" height="115" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 594.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Ribs in North, East and South Aisles<br /> of the Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The windows of the aisles, in the choir and part of the nave, are very -much alike and very simple in design, and some of them are grouped and -contain rudimentary rather than real tracery. Some of these are visible -in the choir in Fig. 593, and <a href="#fig_595">Fig. 595</a> shows one in the north aisle of -the choir, which may be taken as a specimen. It consists of three -lancets separated by mullions, which might rather be described as -portions of the wall with small buttresses attached, and the whole -enclosed within one arch, having the spandril above pierced with a -quatrefoil and two trefoils.</p> - -<p>The tracery of the windows on the south side of the nave is simple, but -completely formed (see <a href="#fig_590">Fig. 590</a>), each window having two mullions and -three trefoils in the arch head. Those of the clerestory have each a -central mullion divided in the arch into two branches (<a href="#fig_596">Fig. 596</a>).</p> - -<p>The tracery in the great windows in the west end (see <a href="#fig_569">Fig. 569</a>) and in -those of the north transept (see <a href="#fig_593">Fig. 593</a>) and south transept is modern, -and it is not easy to determine how far the designs follow the -originals. The north transept window (see <a href="#fig_596">Fig. 596</a>), which was “taken -down and rebuilt,”<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> looks, from the simplicity of its design, to be -probably like what the original may have been. Regarding the other two -great windows, one cannot be so sure. The great buttress enclos-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190">{190}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_595" id="fig_595"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_190.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_190.png" width="219" height="371" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 595.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Window in North Aisle of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>*ing the staircase at the north-west angle of the north transept (see -<a href="#fig_596">Fig. 596</a>) is a noteworthy feature, differing as it does from the other -buttresses flanking the end walls. It occupies part of the space which -naturally falls to the eastmost window of the nave aisle, and this -opening, instead of being designed as a smaller window to fit the space, -is treated with the same design as the others, and thus presents the -appearance of having been cut in two. In each of the four great gables -the vesica aperture occurs; and this, along with the constant repetition -throughout the whole building of certain features, such as the parapets -with their supporting corbels, the peculiar gargoyles, the slender -buttresses in the clerestories, and the terminations of the main -buttresses, all show that the keynote of the design struck by the early -builders was taken up and continued by their successors. As above -pointed out, this, no doubt, partly arose from the lower portions of the -whole structure having been begun at an early period, though, in part, -not finished till a later time. Even in the chapter house building -(<a href="#fig_597">Fig. 597</a>), the upper story of which is of a distinctly Scottish character, -the continuation of early features has not been lost sight of. Here the -details of the church built by Bishop Bondington in the thirteenth -century furnished models for the work even of the fifteenth century. The -lower windows are similar in form, the parapets of the chapter house -wing are continued round at the same level as those of the aisles of the -choir, and the buttresses are also similar. Attention may be drawn to -the curious treatment of the upper water tables of the buttresses of -this wing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191">{191}</a></span> The slope is divided into two halves, one half rising a -little higher than the other.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_596" id="fig_596"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_191.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_191.png" width="424" height="566" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 596.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192">{192}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_597" id="fig_597"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_192.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_192.png" width="452" height="484" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 597.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Chapter House, from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The chapter house wing is two stories in height, and the staircase -finishes on top (<a href="#fig_598">Fig. 598</a>) with a cape house, after the manner of the -pele towers. This wing measures on Plan about 30 feet square internally, -and has a central pillar supporting the vaulting on both floors. The -chapter house, which is on the ground floor, was, as we have seen, left -in an unfinished state in the thirteenth century. In the early part of -the fifteenth century, Bishop Lauder has evidently recommenced work at -it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193">{193}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_598" id="fig_598"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_193.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_193.png" width="427" height="543" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 598.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. East End of Cathedral -and Chapter House, from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The wall shafts (see <a href="#fig_584">Fig. 584</a>), with their early section and first -pointed caps and bases, have the appearance of being older than his -time; but the Dean’s seat, which has been inserted in the east side -(<a href="#fig_599">Fig. 599</a>), is part<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194">{194}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_599" id="fig_599"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_194.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_194.png" width="435" height="559" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 599.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Dean’s Seat in Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of his work. It is in the design of that period, and contains the -following <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">{195}</a></span>inscription along the top—viz., Wilms: fuda: instut: Caplm: -Dei, which Archbishop Eyre thus renders,<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> “William laid the -foundation of this chapter house in God’s honour.” The William referred -to was Bishop William Lauder, whose arms (a Griffin Segreant) occur on a -shield on the lintel below the inscription. The shield is surmounted by -the bishop’s crosier.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_600" id="fig_600"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_195.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_195.png" width="426" height="451" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 600.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Sacristy, looking -North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The shield of Bishop Lauder is also inserted on the exterior of the west -side of the chapter house. It is shown on a slab in Fig. 600, and is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196">{196}</a></span> a -characteristic piece of heraldic decoration. <a href="#fig_600">Fig. 600</a> shows the upper -apartment or sacristy.</p> - -<p>The completion of this wing was carried out by Bishop Cameron, who built -the upper story, or sacristy, and vaulted the building. It is not quite -clear whether the vaulting of the lower story was executed by Bishop -Cameron or Bishop Lauder. The central pillar (<a href="#fig_601">Fig. 601</a>) is late, and the -boss of the north-west compartment seems to contain the Cameron arms. -The groin ribs (<span class="lettre">A</span>) are of early form, while those of the sacristy (<span class="lettre">B</span>) -are of a late section. The vaulting springers of the chapter house may -have been built at the same time as the chapter house shafts—<i>i.e.</i>, in -the thirteenth century—and completed in the fifteenth century with the -same section as they were begun with; while the groins of the sacristy, -being entirely of fifteenth century work, are of the section of that -period.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_601" id="fig_601"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_196.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_196.png" width="221" height="196" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 601.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Details of Central -Pillar, &c., in Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The shields in the bosses of the chapter house are somewhat difficult to -decipher; but that in the south-east bay may possibly represent the -royal arms of Scotland and England impaled, and stand for James <small>I.</small> and -his wife, Margaret Tudor.<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> King James returned to Scotland in 1424, -about which time the chapter house vault may have been built.</p> - -<p>The upper chamber is undoubtedly the work of Bishop Cameron. The central -pillar has two shields in the capital. That fronting a person entering -contains the royal arms, surmounted by a crown (see <a href="#fig_600">Fig. 600</a>); and the -shield on the opposite side contains Bishop Cameron’s arms. There is -here an analogy with the central pillar of the chapter house of Elgin -Cathedral, where the royal arms and those of the bishop by whom it was -completed are carved on the capital. The Cameron arms also occur<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197">{197}</a></span> in the -cap of the wall shaft opposite the coat above referred to, and likewise -over the fireplace (see <a href="#fig_600">Fig. 600</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_602" id="fig_602"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_197.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_197.png" width="412" height="556" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 602.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Rood Screen and -Entrance to Choir and Lower Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198">{198}</a></span></p> - -<p>The sacristy contains, as shown in the sketch (see <a href="#fig_600">Fig. 600</a>), stone -built projecting cupboards and a large fireplace. The arms of Bishop -Cameron on the mantel above the latter contain an example of how -heraldry and architecture may be made to work together; one of the -members of the cornice over the fireplace being continued across the -shield, so as to form one of the fesses of the Cameron coat. A wide -wheel stair close to the entrance connects the chapter house and the -vestry above. A shield containing a bull’s head, the arms of Bishop -Turnbull, is inserted in the outside of the west wall, near the top. The -wing may have been completed by that prelate.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_603" id="fig_603"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_198.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_198.png" width="168" height="242" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 603.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Archbishop Blackadder’s Arms on Altar.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mr. Honeyman<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> conjectures that the Rood screen (<a href="#fig_602">Fig. 602</a>) which is -erected between the eastern piers of the central tower was built by -Bishop Cameron. It contains a staircase in the space in the north side, -and in the opposite side are cupboards for containing church vestments. -In front of the screen there are two fine stone altars, that on the -south side being known as the altar of St. Mary of Pity, and that on the -north side as the altar of the Holy Cross. The arms and initials of -Archbishop Blackadder (<a href="#fig_603">Fig. 603</a>) are carved on the ends of both of these -altars.</p> - -<p>The rood screen with its two altars, although evidently a late work, -adds considerably to the picturesque effect of the interior of the -cathedral. It has a large, deeply-recessed and moulded doorway in the -centre, the arch of which is of elliptical form, and has the jamb -mouldings (<a href="#fig_604">Fig. 604</a>) continued, without caps or break, round the arch -head. On each side of the doorway the surface of the wall is covered -with shallow panels having trefoiled arch heads. A corbel in each of -these panels (now cut off) once supported a statue, and these would add -much to the effect of the structure. The cornice is large, and is -surmounted by an open parapet containing quatrefoils, and having -standards running up in the centre of each alternate quatrefoil. The -standards are ornamented with small pinnacles, and are supported on -corbels, each of which contains two human figures,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199">{199}</a></span> which recall similar -carvings at Rosslyn Chapel, but are of finer execution.<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a></p> - -<p>The structure begun to be erected in continuation of the south transept -has already been referred to. The building (see <a href="#fig_571">Fig. 571</a>) is 57 feet in -length by 25 feet in width internally, and comprises four bays in the -length and two in the width, supported on three central pillars. The -entrance is from the wide landing of the staircase in the south transept -leading down to the lower church, from which point a series of wide -steps leads down to the floor. From these steps a good view is obtained -of the interior (<a href="#fig_605">Fig. 605</a>).</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_604" id="fig_604"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_199.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_199.png" width="193" height="173" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 604.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Details of Rood Screen.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The pillars are all moulded and provided with caps and bases, and the -arches springing from them have numerous moulded groins with large -foliaged bosses at the intersections. A substantial stone bench -surrounds the outer walls; on this rest the bases of the responds and -the sloping sills of the windows. Externally the building is plain (see -<a href="#fig_593">Fig. 593</a>), and has evidently been prepared for an upper story. It has a -heavy moulded base, which is returned round the buttresses. The section -of this base (see <a href="#fig_573">Fig. 573</a>) is different from those of the nave and -choir, and is doubtless later, the base of the main building being (as -above mentioned) carried through this wing, which abuts against it. The -buttresses of the main building are also carried down to the base, and -the walls and arches of the crypt abut upon them. The doorway is -evidently much older than the crypt. The windows have plain tracery, and -over each window is a small panel containing a piece of sculpture, -probably representing subjects from a mediæval bestiary, such as those -referred to in Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 19. They look older than the building in which -they are inserted.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200">{200}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_605" id="fig_605"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_200.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_200.png" width="415" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 605.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Interior of -Blackadder’s Crypt.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is conjectured from the following inscription on the vaulting, “This -is ye ile of Car Fergus,” that this structure was begun at an early -period, and that it was completed by Archbishop Blackadder, whose arms, -surmounted by his mitre, are carved on the central buttress at the south -end, and also on the corbel of a niche at the north-west angle. It is -difficult to decide either the date or the purpose of this structure. -It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201">{201}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_606" id="fig_606"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_201.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_201.png" width="408" height="512" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 606.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Monument to the Barons -of the House of Mynto.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">has evidently been intended to be carried higher, and probably may have -been meant to form an extension of the transept. Although the work in -the interior has considerable resemblance to that in the lower church, -it is decidedly later, and has been copied from it. The work on the -exterior<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202">{202}</a></span> is very much inferior, and the carving of the caps, which -seems also to be imitated from that of the choir, is evidently late and -debased. The groin ribs, too, are coarse, and point to about the time of -Bishop Blackadder.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_607" id="fig_607"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_202.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_202.png" width="421" height="469" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 607.</span>—St. Mungo’s Cathedral. Part of Monument, -enlarged.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The western towers or adjuncts, already mentioned (see <a href="#fig_567">Fig. 567</a>), were -structures of considerable importance, that on the south-west being a -very strong keep, about 34 feet by 32 feet, with walls 9 to 10 feet -thick, strengthened by great buttresses. It was about 54 feet in height -to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203">{203}</a></span> parapet, and 70 feet to the cape house roof. This structure is -believed to have been built about the middle of the fourteenth century. -Those who know anything of our pele towers can easily understand how -much the cathedral was marred by the loss of such a characteristic -feature.</p> - -<p>The other structure which stood at the north-west angle was of about the -same size, but was considerably higher, being 118 feet to the parapet, -and was surmounted by a lead-covered spire. Both the above adjuncts were -taken down in 1846.</p> - -<p>The ancient monuments in the cathedral are comparatively few, those -which survive being all of the sixteenth and later centuries. Two of -these are seen in Figs. 588 and 590, which show that the design of that -period is well represented.</p> - -<p>Another of these sixteenth century monuments is shown in Fig. 606, -erected in memory of the barons of the House of Mynto. This monument is -noteworthy from its possessing one of the few examples of old brasses in -Scotland. The brass (<a href="#fig_607">Fig. 607</a>) represents one of the barons in armour -kneeling and looking towards the sun, surrounded with rays in the upper -corners.</p> - -<h3>BRECHIN CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Forfarshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Bishoprics of Brechin and Dunblane were founded towards the close of -the reign of King David <small>I.</small> from the remains of the old Pictish Bishopric -of Abernethy. Although a religious establishment had existed at Brechin -previously, it had no claim to represent an old Columban monastery. The -earliest notice of Brechin is that in the Pictish chronicle which -narrates that King Kenneth, son of Malcolm, who reigned from 971 to 995, -gave the great town of Brechin to the Lord. The dedication of the church -to the Holy Trinity also indicates a comparatively late date. This -church, like many others founded after King Kenneth Macalpin’s -restoration of the Irish priests in the middle of the ninth century, -emanated from the Irish Church, and was assimilated in character to the -Irish monasteries. To this connection is, no doubt, attributable the -famous round tower which still exists at Brechin.</p> - -<p>The next notices of Brechin occur in the reign of David <small>I.</small> In the early -part of his reign a charter to the Church of Deer is witnessed by “Leot, -Abbot of Brechin,” and a later charter is witnessed by “Samson, Bishop -of Brechin.” The abbot had probably, in the interval, become the bishop, -while the abbey was secularised and passed into the possession of a lay -abbot, and a community of Keledei under a prior. These formed the -chapter of the diocese till they were superseded by a regular cathedral -chapter. In 1218 the Keledei are distinguished from the chapter, and in -1248 they entirely disappear.<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204">{204}</a></span></p> - -<p>Several of the bishops of the diocese were men of note, and rendered -important services during the War of Independence and in connection with -the redemption of David <small>II.</small> from captivity, and, in consequence, -obtained privileges to the town. The cathedral was also largely -benefited by the Earl of Crawford, and received liberal grants from the -Stewarts, Earls of Atholl. There is, however, little to be gathered from -the accounts of the lives of the bishops regarding the history of the -structure of the cathedral. Almost the only statement bearing on the -subject is that the vicar of the parish of Lethnot, in fulfilment of his -obligation, “delivered to Patrick, Bishop of Brechin (1354-84), a large -white horse, and had also given a cart and horse to lead stones to the -building of the belfry of the Church of Brechin in the time of Bishop -Patrick.”<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a></p> - -<p>The gradual declension of the bishopric and the loss of the church -property followed the usual course. A precept by James <small>III.</small>, in 1463, -states that, through the profligacy of the bishop and canons, the -revenues of the cathedral had been greatly reduced by frequent -alienations of its property, and, in consequence, steps were taken and -some of the lands were restored, or an annual feu-duty paid for them.</p> - -<p>After the Reformation, Alexander Campbell was bishop from 1566 to 1610. -By a grant in his favour he was empowered to sell, for his own benefit, -all revenues and properties belonging to the see then vacant, or which -might become vacant. Of this power the bishop freely availed himself, -both for his own interest and also for the benefit of his powerful -patron, the Earl of Argyll. His example was speedily followed by the -archdeacon, chancellor, and presbyters, who, on various pretexts, -disposed of their houses and lands. By these means the property of the -cathedral was lost to the church and passed into the hands of laymen.</p> - -<p>The cathedral continued to be used after the Reformation for Protestant -worship, and, according to Mr. Black, the edifice was little interfered -with till 1806. Before that period he describes it as a handsome Gothic -building, consisting of a nave with two aisles, and a transept formed by -an extension of these aisles to the north and south. Mr. Black also -states that there is no appearance of there ever having been any pillars -or arches in the transepts, and questions whether the choir was ever -finished, or if there was anything more than a lady chapel. The -appearance of the cathedral in the end of last century is shown in -Grose’s view.</p> - -<p>In 1806 great alterations were made on the edifice. The north and south -transepts were removed, new and wider aisles were built on each side of -the nave, and the outer walls of the aisles were carried to such a -height that the whole nave could be covered with a roof of one span -(<a href="#fig_608">Fig. 608</a>), “thus totally eclipsing the beautiful windows in the nave, -and covering up the handsome carved cornice of the nail-head quatrefoil -description which ran under the eaves of the nave.”<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205">{205}</a></span></p> - -<p>The windows of the clerestory (three on each side), which are now -concealed by the roof, are peculiar in their arrangement, being placed -over the piers instead of over the centre of the arches, as is usual. -Externally they have plain splays, and internally they seem to have been -richer, but are now obscured by plaster. The windows and the dog-toothed -cornice seem to point to an early date.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_608" id="fig_608"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_205.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_205.png" width="325" height="312" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 608.</span>—Brechin Cathedral. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only parts of the interior of the nave spared during the above -restoration are the main piers, of which there are eight (<a href="#fig_609">Fig. 609</a>), -with four responds. Two of these piers seem to indicate, from their -form, so far as not damaged, that this part of the structure must -originally have been of first pointed work. The piers on the south side -are octagonal, and those on the north side are alternately octagonal and -clustered. A remarkable feature of the building is observed in -connection with these piers, those of the south side, together with the -arcade above them, being considerably thinner than those of the -corresponding parts of the north side. As the clerestory walls above are -the same on both sides, it is difficult to account for the difference in -size of the piers. The interior of the nave is 83 feet 6 inches in -length by 57 feet 6 inches in breadth. Fortunately part of the west end -has not been interfered with,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206">{206}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_609" id="fig_609"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_206.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_206.png" width="654" height="359" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 609</span>.—Brechin Cathedral. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207">{207}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_610" id="fig_610"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_207.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_207.png" width="425" height="554" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 610</span>.—Brechin Cathedral. West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">notwithstanding all the alterations, and there we still have the -original transition doorway, flanked by the fifteenth century tower on -the north, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208">{208}</a></span> famous round tower on the south (<a href="#fig_610">Fig. 610</a>). At the -east end of the nave are preserved portions of the ruined side walls of -the aisleless choir, a beautiful example of first pointed work -(<a href="#fig_611">Fig. 611</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_611" id="fig_611"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_208.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_208.png" width="462" height="496" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 611</span>.—Brechin Cathedral. Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The most interesting, as well as the most ancient, structure connected -with Brechin Cathedral is the round tower, 103 feet in height, which is -now incorporated with it, and occupies the place of a spire at the -south<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209">{209}</a></span>-west angle (see <a href="#fig_608">Figs. 608</a> and <a href="#fig_610">610</a>). This and the corresponding -round tower at Abernethy,<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> on the south side of the Tay, are the only -representatives on the mainland of Scotland of this special kind of -erection. At Egilsay, in Orkney,<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> is found the only other round tower -of this kind in the country.</p> - -<p>These round towers have given rise to much controversy as to their date -and use, but the whole of our knowledge regarding them has been -admirably summed up by Dr. J. Anderson, in his <i>Scotland in Early -Christian Times</i>, p. 52. It is there shown that these round towers are -outliers of a group of which Ireland is the home. As has been pointed -out in the Introduction to the first volume, the period of the Irish -round towers is comprised between the end of the ninth century and the -beginning of the twelfth century. We have above seen that the first -church in Brechin was founded by a colony of ecclesiastics, after the -Irish model, about the beginning of the eleventh century, and the -probability is that the tower was erected during that century. Brechin -is said to have been destroyed by the Danes in 1012, and it seems not -unlikely that the monks there would follow the plan adopted in Ireland -in the case of similar invasions, in order to protect their -valuables—viz., to erect a strong detached round tower as a place of -refuge and security. The Brechin tower corresponds in all its features -with Irish examples. The detached situation; the circular form tapering -from the projecting base to the summit; the doorway raised 6 feet 6 -inches above the ground, and ornamented with details and sculptures -similar to those of Irish models; the division into stories by means of -internal string courses to sustain wooden floors, but without any means -of access except ladders, and lighted by two small windows with inclined -jambs; the four large windows at the top facing the cardinal points; the -ornament of the cornice and the pointed roof (although this, no doubt, -is a later restoration), are all elements distinctive of the old Irish -round towers. The stones of which the tower is built are large, and they -are cut to the circle, but are not laid in regular courses. The tower -measures 86 feet 9 inches to the base of the sloping roof. It is divided -into seven unequal stories, with string courses in the interior.</p> - -<p>The Irish round towers are divided by Miss Stoke’s classification into -four periods; and the nature of the masonry of the Brechin Tower -corresponds with the third of those periods, which in Ireland would be -the first half of the tenth century, but in this derivative example -would, doubtless, be somewhat later.</p> - -<p>The doorway, with its sculpture (<a href="#fig_612">Fig. 612</a>), is especially interesting. -It presents features all characteristic of its Irish originals. The -aperture is small, and the jambs are inclined inwards towards the top. -They are in single stones the full breadth of the wall, and are covered -with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210">{210}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_612" id="fig_612"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_210.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_210.png" width="288" height="395" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 612</span>.—Brechin Cathedral. Doorway of Round Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">single stone, hollowed out into a semicircular arch. The arch has two -such stones in the thickness. The sill is also in one stone. These -stones are all dressed and carved with an architrave-like figure running -all round the doorway, enriched with a flat pellet ornament, a form of -frequent use in Irish examples. On the summit of the arch is carved a -crucifixion, with the legs not crossed. In the round tower at -Donoughmore, County Meath, a representation of the Crucifixion occupies -a similar position over the head of the doorway. Dr. J. Anderson gives -the following minute description of the sculpture of the Brechin -Tower:—“In the middle of the height of the jambs on either side are -raised panels, bearing figures in relief of men habited as -ecclesiastics. One bears a pastoral staff of the form peculiar to the -early Celtic Church, having a curved head resembling that of a -walking-stick. The other bears a book on his breast, and carries<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211">{211}</a></span> a -cross-headed or tau-staff, which is of exceedingly rare occurrence -either in this country or any other. At the lower part of the jambs on -either side are the figures of two crouching beasts. One is a winged -griffin, and both bear a close affinity to the figures of nondescript -creatures carved on the early sculptured memorial stones.”<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> On each -side of the arch of the doorway are two projecting blank panels, -apparently intended for sculptures never executed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_613" id="fig_613"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_211.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_211.png" width="433" height="450" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 613.</span>—Brechin Cathedral. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212">{212}</a></span></p> - -<p>When the Bishopric of Brechin was founded by King David, a church would, -no doubt, be erected, but of that structure not a fragment remains. Of -the existing building the western doorway (<a href="#fig_613">Fig. 613</a>) presents the oldest -feature. It is 5 feet 9 inches wide, and deeply recessed, the jambs -being enriched with five detached shafts set in a series of nooks, and -having moulded caps and bases, the caps with round abaci. The arch is -pointed, and contains five orders carved with numerous bold mouldings, -some of which present details showing the remains of a highly relieved -chevron, a lingering form of Norman enrichment, together with rows of -dog-tooth ornaments. The whole effect is simple and massive, and -corresponds with other examples of early first pointed work, which may -be assigned to the early part of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>The upper and the southern parts of the west façade (see <a href="#fig_610">Fig. 610</a>) have -been rebuilt at a later period. The portion over the doorway contains a -fine example of late decorated tracery in the large western window, and -the rebuilt portion to the south contains a niche, which is rather -eccentrically introduced (see <a href="#fig_613">Fig. 613</a>).</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_614" id="fig_614"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_212.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_212.png" width="173" height="193" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 614.</span>—Brechin Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Cap in Interior Angle of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As mentioned in the foregoing historical notes, we have an indication -that the north-west tower or “belfry” was apparently in course of -construction between 1351 and 1373. To judge from some of the features -of the building, it must have been a long time in erection. It was -probably begun before the above date, and the lower part may have been -built during the thirteenth century. The design of the angle caps -(<a href="#fig_614">Fig. 614</a>) which support the vaulting of the ground floor is of a decidedly -first pointed character. Possibly these capitals may have belonged to an -older tower, and were simply reused in the reconstruction of the -existing tower. The peculiar vaulting of the ground floor of the tower -(<a href="#fig_615">Fig. 615</a>), and the form of the base and other details, point to a later -date than that of the capitals. The upper part of the tower containing -the fine belfry windows (<a href="#fig_616">Fig. 616</a>) may be classed as decorated work, and -probably belongs to the time (fourteenth century) of Bishop Patrick, -above referred to. The spire is doubtless later, having a series of -lucarnes such as are usual in the spires of the third pointed period. -The effect of the tower and spire is good. It is the completest and best -remaining example of its kind in Scotland. The tower is 70 feet in -height, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213">{213}</a></span> the octagonal spire is 58 feet high. Some portions of the -parapet have been altered and restored.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_615" id="fig_615"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_213.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_213.png" width="395" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 615.</span>—Brechin Cathedral. Vaulting of Ground Floor of -Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The choir (see <a href="#fig_611">Fig. 611</a>), so far as preserved, shows the ruins of a fine -example of first pointed work. It has been without aisles, and the side -walls contained a series of tall lancet windows, with plain chamfers -externally, but having the wall space relieved internally with detached -shafts and moulded arches, enriched with the dog-tooth.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214">{214}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_616" id="fig_616"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_214.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_214.png" width="345" height="625" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 616.</span>—Brechin Cathedral. Tower and Spire from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215">{215}</a></span></p> - -<p>The shafts are arranged so as to form a cluster of three smaller shafts -round a larger central nucleus. They have round moulded caps, bases, and -central band. The shafts are now much mutilated, but they are shown -restored in the drawing.</p> - -<p>The choir, which Mr. Muir states was originally 84 feet 4 inches in -length, is now reduced to three lancet windows on the north side, and -one and a respond on the south side, the existing portions of the side -walls being about 30 feet in length. An enriched cornice runs along the -wall head above the windows.</p> - -<p>The choir, although now reduced to a mere fragment, must, when complete, -have been a very pure and beautiful piece of architecture.</p> - -<h3>MAISON DIEU, <span class="smcap">Brechin, Forfarshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is an interesting fragment of first pointed work. The chapel is -said to have been founded, in 1256, by William de Brechin for the repose -of the souls of Kings William and Alexander, and of his brother John, -Earl of Chester and Huntingdon; of Henry, his father, and Juliana, his -mother. This structure, no doubt, as its name implies, formed part of a -hospital. It was endowed with lands, some of which it still retains—one -place being yet known as the Maison Dieu Farm. A small revenue derived -from the land is generally gifted by the Crown to the rector of the -Grammar School, who consequently signs himself “Praeceptor Domus -Dei.”<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_617" id="fig_617"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_215.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_215.png" width="259" height="76" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 617.</span>—Maison Dieu. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The part of the chapel which still survives stands in a back lane in the -centre of the town of Brechin, and consists of a portion of the south -wall and a small piece of the east wall (<a href="#fig_617">Fig. 617</a>). The sketches show -that the work is in the first pointed style, and is simple and pure in -character. The south wall (<a href="#fig_618">Fig. 618</a>), which bounds the lane on one side, -is about 40 feet in length, and contains a doorway, with a nook shaft in -each jamb, and good mouldings in the arch (<a href="#fig_619">Fig. 619</a>). It also contains -three lancet windows and one jamb of a fourth. The fragment of the east -wall terminates at the jamb of the first window. The mouldings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216">{216}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_618" id="fig_618"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_216-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_216-a.png" width="461" height="332" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 618.</span>—Maison Dieu. South Wall: Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_619" id="fig_619"></a><a name="fig_620" id="fig_620"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_216-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_216-b.png" width="383" height="267" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> - -<table> -<tr><td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 619.</span>—Maison Dieu. Section of Doorway. -</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 620.</span>—Maison Dieu. Section of Window. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217">{217}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and other details of the windows are plain, but effective, the sconsion -mouldings being unusually fine (<a href="#fig_620">Figs. 620</a> and <a href="#fig_621">621</a>). There is a piscina -in the south wall with a stone shelf, but the details are a good deal -damaged.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_621" id="fig_621"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_217.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_217.png" width="322" height="372" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 621.</span>—Maison Dieu. South Wall: Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This fragment is valuable, and should be carefully preserved.</p> - -<h3>LINDORES ABBEY,<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a> <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The scanty ruins of this once important abbey are situated a short -distance eastwards from the town of Newburgh, and not far from the south -bank of the Tay.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218">{218}</a></span></p> - -<p>The abbey was founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, grandson of David -<small>I.</small>, and brother of King William the Lion. The foundation took place in -1178, being the same year as that in which Arbroath Abbey was founded by -William the Lion. The abbey was colonised by Tironensian monks from -Kelso, Guido, the first abbot, having been previously prior of the -latter monastery. The buildings are said to have been erected under the -superintendence of Abbot Guido, but as he died in 1219, the style of -architecture, which is pure first pointed, leads to the conclusion that -they can only have been planned, and perhaps begun, under the first -abbot. The institution was munificently endowed by the founder, who -bestowed upon it churches both in Scotland and England. It was also -encouraged by the De Quinceys, Earls of Winchester, who, in 1264, -presented to it the peat moss of Kinloch and the Church of Culessy. The -Church of Dundee also belonged to the monks of Lindores. The abbey is in -the parish of Lindores (now Abdie) (<i>q.v.</i>), and the name of the old -Culdee church which stood beside the Loch of Lindores, a few miles to -the south, was transferred from the church to the abbey, as being the -most important ecclesiastical establishment in the parish. The word -Lindores is believed to mean “the church by the water,” and “Abdie” -refers to the possessions of the early monastic establishment.</p> - -<p>Lindores Abbey was an institution of considerable importance, and was -frequently the temporary residence of royalty. In 1265 it was visited by -Alexander <small>III.</small>, and in 1296 by Edward I., when he received the -allegiance of the district. David <small>II.</small> also resided in the abbey. The -unfortunate Duke of Rothesay, who perished at Falkland in 1401, was -buried in the church.</p> - -<p>James, Earl of Douglas and Duke of Turenne, after a lifetime spent in -contending with James <small>II.</small> and <small>III.</small>, retired to the Abbey of Lindores, -where he passed the last five years of his life, and declined to be -drawn from its seclusion either by James <small>III.</small> or his rebellious nobles, -who both applied to him for his assistance. He died in 1488.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of the fifteenth century the possessions of the -monastery were felt to be in a precarious state, and tacks of the abbey -lands were granted to laymen who could defend them. In 1543 the populace -of Dundee made a destructive attack on the houses of the Black and Grey -Friars in that town, and afterwards assailed the Abbey of Lindores, from -which they ejected the monks and destroyed the furnishings and -ornaments.</p> - -<p>The abbey afterwards passed into the hands of commendators, till, in -1600, Patrick Leslie of Pitcairlie was created Lord Lindores, and -endowed with the estates.</p> - -<p>The buildings appear to have been allowed to go to ruin, and to have -been gradually removed by the inhabitants for building materials. Mr. -Laing gives instances to show that the ruins were regarded as a common<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219">{219}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_622" id="fig_622"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_219.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_219.png" width="499" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:75%;"> -<tr><td class="rt">A.</td><td align="left">Presbytery.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">B.</td><td align="left">Crossing.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">C.</td><td align="left">Nave.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">D.</td><td align="left">North Transept.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">E.</td><td align="left">South Transept.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">F.</td><td align="left">Slype or Sacristy.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">G.</td><td align="left">Chapter House.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">H.</td><td align="left">Stair.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">J.</td><td align="left">Fratry.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">K.</td><td align="left">Tower.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">L.</td><td align="left">Cloister Garth.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">M. M.</td><td align="left">Western Side of Cloister</td></tr> -<tr><td class="rt">N. N.</td><td align="left">Enclosing Wall.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 622.</span>—Lindores Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">quarry, from which the public were accustomed to remove what they -pleased. The whole place, early in this century, is described as heaped -up with ruins and rubbish, so that even the ground plan could not be -made out, and the abbey was known in the locality as the “Wilderness.” -“This is now all changed; the rubbish has been cleared away down to the -basement, and the plan of the building is distinctly seen.... About -twenty-five years ago the foundations of a range of pillars, to the -height of several feet, running along the north side of the nave, were -laid bare by the partial removal of the rubbish by which they had been -concealed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220">{220}</a></span> They were of the same elegant design as those fragments -which remain; but very shortly after their discovery they were -ruthlessly removed.”<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_623" id="fig_623"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_220.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_220.png" width="423" height="459" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 623.</span>—Lindores Abbey. Gateway in Enclosing Wall, -from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The abbey buildings (<a href="#fig_622">Fig. 622</a>) consisted originally of a church, having -an aisleless choir about 42 feet long by 24 feet wide; a nave, with -north aisle, 132 feet in length by 40 feet in width; north and south -transepts, measuring from north to south 111 feet, and, including the -eastern aisle, 39 feet 6 inches wide; and a great tower at the -north-west angle of the nave, measuring about 37 feet 9 inches over the -buttresses.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221">{221}</a></span></p> - -<p>To the south of the nave lay the cloister garth, with its surrounding -cloister walk, measuring over all 107 feet by 96 feet. The buildings -entering from the east side of the cloister are the best preserved parts -of the structure. Adjoining the south transept is the vaulted slype or -passage leading to the eastward. Next to it is the chapter house, 49 -feet long by 24 feet 3 inches wide; and to the south of the chapter -house is a building 55 feet long by 32 feet wide over the walls, which -was probably the fratry or day-room of the monks. It is provided with -buttresses and windows on the east side. At the north end of this -apartment was the day staircase to the dormitory. The west and south -sides of the cloistral buildings are now almost reduced to the ruins of -a single wall on each side. Some traces of partition walls and -buttresses may be observed on the west side, but on the south side only -a doorway at the east end can be made out. The refectory doubtless lay, -as usual, on this side.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_624" id="fig_624"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_221.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_221.png" width="274" height="307" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 624.</span>—Lindores Abbey. Piscina in North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The monastery was surrounded by a high wall, of which some portions -still exist. This wall contains a large entrance archway (<a href="#fig_623">Fig. 623</a>), -with smaller footway at the south-west angle.</p> - -<p>Of the church little but the foundation and some portions of the walls -survive. The outline of the exterior of the choir, with its buttresses, -can be clearly followed, but the interior has been stripped of its -ashlar work.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222">{222}</a></span> A recess on the north side doubtless contained a tomb, and -some traces of the sedilia are visible. Two small coffins were found -buried in the choir, which are believed to have contained the remains of -two children of Earl David, the founder. The position of the east aisle -of the transepts can be traced, with its buttresses. The north and south -walls of the choir were carried, without openings, across the ends of -the transept aisle. The wall in the north transept contains a portion of -a double piscina (<a href="#fig_624">Fig. 624</a>), one basin being scalloped and the other a -plain circle. Amongst the most interesting parts of the structure are -the foundations and one or two courses of the piers of the crossing. -These are well preserved, and show the first pointed mouldings of the -responds of the piers on three sides (<a href="#fig_625">Fig. 625</a>), the mouldings being the -same in the piers of the arches which crossed the choir and transept, -and also in the arches of the transept aisle. They are all of fine first -pointed design. The base of the piers (<a href="#fig_626">Fig. 626</a>) is also first pointed. -A doorway from the north-east angle of the cloister enters the church by -the south transept, and not, as usual, by the nave. A considerable part -of the south wall of the nave survives. It has small projections at -intervals along the south face, which probably carried an arcade. -<a href="#fig_627">Fig. 627</a> shows the section of the bases of the west end of the church and the -tower.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_625" id="fig_625"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_222-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_222-a.png" width="151" height="108" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 625.</span>—Lindores Abbey.</p> - -<p>Responds of Piers.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" > -<p><a name="fig_626" id="fig_626"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_222-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_222-b.png" width="189" height="299" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 626.</span>—Lindores Abbey.</p> - -<p>Mouldings of Base of Piers.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Another doorway entered the nave from the cloister some distance -westwards from the crossing. The plan and elevation of the portion still -remaining are shown in Figs. 628 and 629. This doorway had, towards the -cloister, two nook shafts, with bold dog-toothed ornaments on the angles -between the shafts, and on the interior sconsion a double beaded -moulding. A third doorway led from the west end of the cloister into the -nave.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223">{223}</a></span></p> - -<p>The north aisle of the nave is now scarcely traceable. The walls of the -north-western tower, which occupies a position similar to the tower of -Brechin Cathedral, still stand to a height of about 8 feet. The tower -had large square corner buttresses, and smaller intermediate ones on -each face, with a base consisting of three plain set-offs (see -<a href="#fig_627">Fig. 627</a>). A wheel stair occupied the buttress at the north-east angle. There -is now no trace of the western doorway of the church, but the base -mouldings are shown in Fig. 627. There is a recess for a stoup in the -south wall near the west doorway.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_627" id="fig_627"></a><a name="fig_628" id="fig_628"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_223-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_223-a.png" width="422" height="203" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> - -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 627.</span>—Lindores Abbey.</p> -<p>Bases at West End of Tower<br /> -and Church.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 628.</span>—Lindores Abbey.</p> - -<p>Plan of South Doorway of Nave.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_629" id="fig_629"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_223-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_223-b.png" width="133" height="106" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 629.</span>—Lindores Abbey.</p> - -<p>Jamb of South Doorway of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As already mentioned, the vaulting of the slype (<a href="#fig_630">Fig. 630</a>) is fairly -well preserved. It consisted of two square bays, and had plain splayed -groins springing from corbels, which have all a decidedly first pointed -character. The doorway next the cloister had a pair of nook shafts, and -the east doorway was plain. A stone bench runs along both sides of the -slype.</p> - -<p>The chapter house has had a stone bench running round the walls, and an -arcade all round rested upon it. The shafts and bases can still be -traced. The straight staircase to the south of the chapter house no -doubt led to the dormitory, which would extend over the fratry to the -south as well as the chapter house, A room over the slype may have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224">{224}</a></span> been -the scriptorium or library. The night passage of the monks to the church -evidently passed through that apartment, as the stair was in the -south-west angle of the transept, and could only be reached in that way.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_630" id="fig_630"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_224.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_224.png" width="417" height="540" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 630.</span>—Lindores Abbey. Interior of Slype.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225">{225}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_631" id="fig_631"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_225.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_225.png" width="223" height="430" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 631.</span>—Lindores Abbey. Broken Figure lying against -West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><a href="#fig_631">Fig. 631</a> shows a portion of the carved effigy of a monument which is -preserved amongst the ruins.</p> - -<h3>CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Stirlingshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ruins of this abbey stand on the banks of the Forth, about a mile -eastward from Stirling. The buildings are almost completely ruined, the -detached tower at the west being almost the only part which remains in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226">{226}</a></span> -anything like a complete state. The plan of the church and the abbey -buildings can only be conjectured from grass-grown foundations, with -here and there a base course of dressed stone. The west doorway, -however, although in a very mutilated condition, is nearly entire, as -also is a portion of a gable wall and side walls at the extreme -south-east corner of the buildings. All else is in the most fragmentary -condition. The ground on which the church and cloister were erected is -level, but to the east it slopes downward to the river, as indicated on -the Plan (<a href="#fig_632">Fig. 632</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_632" id="fig_632"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_226.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_226.png" width="464" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 632.</span>—Cambuskenneth Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Till 1864 the whole site was covered with grassy mounds of earth, which -indicated where buildings had formerly stood. In that year<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227">{227}</a></span> excavations -were made, an account of which, together with a plan of the site by Mr. -Mackison, architect, Stirling, was published.<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a></p> - -<p>The church (see <a href="#fig_632">Fig. 632</a>) was cruciform, having a nave, with a north -aisle only; transepts, with eastern aisles; and a short aisleless -presbytery. The length of the nave was about 120 feet, and the width -about 35 feet between the walls. The transepts were about 70 feet long -from north to south by about 38 feet in width within the walls, and the -total internal length of the church was about 190 feet. The whole -structure was of one period, being entirely of first pointed or -thirteenth century work; so much at least can be surmised from the Plan -and from the west doorway (<a href="#fig_633">Fig. 633</a>). The doorway projects about 9 -inches from the face of the wall, and in the ingoing had five shafts in -each jamb, all detached except one, and there was also a shaft in the -outer angles of the projection in front of the west wall. In the nooks -between the shafts there are smaller beads or shafts, all treated with -separate caps. On either side of the outer shafts the dog-tooth ornament -occurs. The jamb mouldings are much better preserved than those of the -arch, the former having been buried in the ruins for centuries, while -the latter, being within the reach of mischievous hands, have been very -much defaced. An idea of the character of the mouldings will be obtained -from the enlarged section (see <a href="#fig_633">Fig. 633</a>); there was only one enrichment, -and that was the dog-tooth. It will be observed that the inner moulding -of the arch does not come to a point, but has a kind of flat keystone -introduced, although the outer mouldings appear to have met in the usual -way. A few bases of the shafts of a wall arcade remain against the south -wall of the nave. An angle buttress at the north-east corner of the -transept indicates later work, probably inserted here owing to the -failure of the original buttresses, which are flat, and have little -projection to support the vaulting.</p> - -<p>The cloister, which lay on the south side of the church, was about 80 -feet square. On the east side of the cloister, in a line with the south -transept, there occurred first the slype and then the chapter house. The -latter was a small apartment of about 21 feet square, which was, as -usual, vaulted, and had an octagonal centre pillar.</p> - -<p>A long, narrow building, which was doubtless the refectory, occupied the -south side of the cloister. It measured about 70 feet long by 25 feet -wide. To the east of this there are situated a cottage and an outhouse; -the latter is certainly quite modern, and the cottage may have been a -part of the monastery.</p> - -<p>About 180 feet east from the chapter house a long range of buildings -extended for upwards of 250 feet in a north and south direction; but as -these are fragmentary, and as the detached buildings of a monastery were -not conformable to a general plan, it is needless to attempt to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228">{228}</a></span> define -these further than to point out that the upper story of the south-east -building was a dovecot, the walls of which are entire to a height of -about 20 feet. The range of buildings, of which the dovecot forms the -end next the river, extends, in its present condition, for about 120 -feet westwards.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_633" id="fig_633"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_228.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_228.png" width="417" height="506" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 633.</span>—Cambuskenneth Abbey. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229">{229}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_634" id="fig_634"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_229.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_229.png" width="426" height="529" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 634.</span>—Cambuskenneth Abbey. The Tower from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tower (<a href="#fig_634">Fig. 634</a>), which is the best preserved portion of the -monastery, stands near the north-west angle of the church, but is -detached from it. The abbey being situated on the extensive plain known -as the Carse of Stirling, probably after the Reformation the tower was -found to be useful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230">{230}</a></span> as a place of outlook over the level country around, -and also, perhaps, as a place of security. The monastery was difficult -of access, being almost surrounded by the river Forth, which winds here -in a remarkable manner. It is, therefore, not unlikely that for the -above reasons the tower has been preserved entire. It measures rather -more than 30 feet square, with walls about 6 feet thick. It is groin -vaulted on the ground floor, and has an octagonal turret stair leading -to the top. From old plates it appears to have been finished on the top -with the usual cape house and chimneys. The existence of fireplaces -indicates, as above suggested, that the tower was taken possession of as -a watch tower or castle, and was thus preserved. It is peculiar in being -detached from the church, from which it is separated about 20 feet. The -entrance to the tower (see <a href="#fig_634">Fig. 634</a>) is by a narrow doorway in the south -front. It has a slightly projecting porch with a high gablet, containing -a niche, and is surmounted by a buttress. There are indications of -buildings having been attached to the tower on the east side, but they -have been of later construction than the tower, and were probably -outhouses, such as are frequently found in connection with the pele -towers. The finishing of the upper part of the parapet is modern. The -tower is four stories in height, and is of good simple design in the -later first pointed style.</p> - -<p>The abbey was founded by King David <small>I.</small>, with the consent of his eldest -son, Prince Henry. The foundation charter is without date, but it -probably belongs to the year 1147.<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> It appears to have been the -original intention to call the abbey by the name of St. Mary, Stirling, -as in the first charter it is by this name that the lands and fishings -of Cambuskenneth are granted, and in all the early charters during the -time of the first three abbots it is so designated. In 1201, as appears -from two bulls by Pope Innocent <small>III.</small>, the name was changed to St. Mary, -Cambuskenneth.</p> - -<p>The abbey was a house of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine, brought -from Aroise Abbey, in the French province of Artois. The monastery was -richly endowed. In 1445 the establishment consisted of the abbot, the -prior, and seventeen monks. Many of the abbots were distinguished men, -and were much employed as statesmen and Ambassadors.</p> - -<p>About one hundred years after the above date of 1201 the abbey was in a -distressful condition, owing to losses which it had suffered “by the -wars which had for a long time raged in those parts, and by the conduct -of certain sons of iniquity, who had seized and carried off the -chalices, books, and the rest of the ornaments of the altar and other -goods belonging to the abbey, and through the destruction of the bell -tower by lightning, which had so reduced their circumstances that they -were totally unable to repair the choir of the abbey, which was going to -ruin.”<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> The abbot<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231">{231}</a></span> and convent appealed to Clement <small>V.</small>, and, by a bull -dated 15th September 1306, he conferred on the convent, by way of -compensation, the perpetual vicarage of the Parish Church of -Clackmannan. Probably it is to about this time that we may assign the -erection of the tower, and that it should be constructed so as to form a -place of strength, as suggested above, seems natural from the foregoing -narrative.</p> - -<p>During the time of Abbot Mylne (1517-48) the great altar and chapter -house were rebuilt, and two new cemeteries were formed. These were -consecrated and dedicated, on 11th July 1521, by James, Bishop of -Dunblane. Regarding the existence of a previous chapter house there is -ample evidence, but the circumstances which required a new one to be -built are not known.</p> - -<p>During the time of Adam Erskine as commendator (1562-1608), his chief, -John, Earl of Mar, Lord Erskine, built his palace in the High Street of -Stirling, and the tradition is that he used the carved stones of the -abbey for this purpose. There is no evidence in support of this, and we -do not think there is anything in the circumstances to confirm it. We -have already referred to the matter at some length.<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a></p> - -<p>The Abbey of Cambuskenneth figured prominently in many events of -national importance. James III. and his queen, Margaret of Denmark, were -here interred before the high altar, and their remains were found in the -excavations of 1864, and were reinterred, a stone altar-monument being -erected over them by Queen Victoria.</p> - -<h3>CULROSS ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The lofty tower of this venerable abbey stands out prominently on the -top of the wooded bank of the Forth, about eight miles below Alloa and -six miles from Dunfermline. It is situated in a detached portion of -Perthshire.</p> - -<p>The small, but ancient, town of Culross, which owes its origin to the -abbey, clusters below it on the slope of the hill, and along its base at -the river side.</p> - -<p>In the seventeenth century the town took a great development, owing to -the collieries and other industries established by Sir George Bruce, and -the harbour was crowded with shipping. But during the present century -this commercial activity has entirely disappeared, and the little town -has relapsed into a quiet, old-fashioned place, still, however, full of -interest and picturesqueness. Amongst its ancient buildings are the -“Study,” the Tolbooth, and the “Palace,” which have been described in -the <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. -432, and Vol. <small>V.</small> pp. 25 and 119.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232">{232}</a></span></p> - -<p>The town is also prolific in ecclesiastical structures, of which the -remains of no less than three still exist. The principal of these is the -abbey. The others consist of the ruins of the ancient parish church, -situated about a mile to the west, and the remnants of the Church of St. -Mungo, which lie at the base of the slope a short way to the east of the -town.</p> - -<p>The abbey was founded, in 1217, by Malcolm, third Earl of Fife. Almost -nothing is known of its history, but it is believed to occupy the site -hallowed by the memory of St. Mungo and his reputed preceptor, St. Serf -or Servanus. St. Mungo is, by tradition, said to have been born on the -shore of the Forth at this place, whither his mother was miraculously -brought by a storm, and to have been nurtured and trained by St. Serf, -an ancient Celtic ecclesiastic, already settled at Culross. This story, -however, is discarded by Dr. Skene, who maintains that St. Mungo or -Kentigern died in 603, while Servanus did not found the Church of -Culross till the end of the seventh century.</p> - -<p>This ancient foundation was apparently revived by Earl Malcolm, who -introduced a body of Cistercian monks from Kinloss, of which abbey, -Hugh, the first prior, was abbot.</p> - -<p>From the evidence of the architecture it is apparent that the -establishment founded by Earl Malcolm was erected in the thirteenth -century. Considerable remains of that period, and some walls of what -might be regarded as of earlier date, are still traceable; but the -principal parts of the existing church, which has been much altered, are -of considerably later date.</p> - -<p>The plan of the church is peculiar (<a href="#fig_635">Fig. 635</a>). Its most conspicuous -feature is the tower, which rises from the ground in the centre of the -building, with four solid walls. To the west of this tower are a few -relics of what appears to have been a separate church, while to the east -of it is a complete church, consisting of the choir, north and south -transepts, and a portion which may be called the nave, running westwards -from the crossing to the tower.</p> - -<p>A few fragments of the old monastic structures also survive. Adjoining -the south transept are parts of two early doorways, and running -southwards from the west end of the west church are the manse (which -comprises old walls) and a large groined hall, which may have formed the -hall of the lay brothers of the convent. A vaulted passage adjoins it, -leading into the manse garden, which evidently occupies the site of the -original cloisters. The church formed the north side of the quadrangle, -while along the south side stretched a series of buildings which, -doubtless, contained the refectory. Owing to the slope of the ground -these erections are supported on vaults, part of which still remains.</p> - -<p>The site of the church is level throughout its whole length on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233">{233}</a></span> -north and east, and along the south side of the choir as far as the -tower within the walls shown on Plan. The cloister garth and the -buildings on the west side stand on ground about 10 feet lower, while -along the south side of the cloister the ground suddenly descends about -20 feet. It was thus necessary, beneath the vaulted buildings shown on -the south-west side, to bring up extensive vaulted cellars, which -extended along the south and east sides of the cloister as far as the -chapter house. All these under-buildings are clearly shown by Slezer, -who represents this abbey with some minuteness as it existed in his time -(1693).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_635" id="fig_635"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_233.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_233.png" width="437" height="381" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 635.</span>—Culross Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Considerable remains of the church and abbey buildings are still -standing, either in a ruinous or greatly altered condition. Extensive -alterations were made on the fabric in the sixteenth and seventeenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234">{234}</a></span> -centuries to adapt certain portions of the old buildings to modern -purposes, and the eastern end of the edifice is now used as the parish -church. There have been, as already stated, an east and a west church, -separated from each other by a central tower rising solidly from the -ground. The tower and the east church are still entire, but of the west -church only the south wall and the start of the north wall at the tower -now remain, as shown on Plan. Both churches have been of about the same -dimensions—viz., 78 feet by about 21 feet 6 inches wide, and both are -without aisles.</p> - -<p>The south wall of the west church has some indications of transition -work, the masonry being arranged in the cube courses peculiar to early -work. Towards the west end (in the gable of the manse) there is a round -arched doorway, now built up, but it contains very little indication of -style. This was, doubtless, the usual entrance to the nave from the west -end of the cloister. The south wall is about 7 or 8 feet high from the -level of the nave floor, and more than twice that height from the level -of the cloisters. The windows were above the top of the wall, as is seen -at the east end adjoining the tower, where there exist the springing and -jamb of a window, with continuous mouldings both on the north and south -sides. These are, undoubtedly, fragments of fifteenth or sixteenth -century work. Slezer, in his views, shows a series of six or seven -round-headed windows at above level along the south side of the west -church. It is sometimes conjectured that these may have been Norman, but -certainly the existing jambs of the eastmost windows above referred to -are not so. Slezer, we may remark, is not to be depended on for accuracy -of details. It is said that these windows were taken down for materials -to build dykes with by the late parish minister, Dr. Erskine.</p> - -<p>The position of the west end of this church is a matter of conjecture, -but it is almost certain that the present modern entrance gateway is -built on its site. The projecting part of wall at <span class="lettre">X</span> on Plan has a large -bead on the corner, and it is clearly the corner of the south-west -buttress of the nave, with the base mouldings returned round it.</p> - -<p>The lower story of the tower is much older than the portion above it. -This is evident from the nature of the building, and also from the door -and window openings in it. Entering from the west church, a low doorway, -5 feet wide, leads into the tower; it is late first pointed in detail, -round arched, or very slightly pointed in some of its orders. At each -side of this doorway there are arched openings, which recall the -recesses on each side of the chancel arch at Tynninghame Church. That on -the west side is a low, plain pointed opening, about 3 feet wide, now -built up. Between the centre door and the southmost of these built up -openings there is a pointed stoup, the lower part of which is buried by -a grave mound. Above the doorway, and beneath the sloping marks of the -roof of the west church, a wide semicircular window opens into the -tower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235">{235}</a></span>—a singular feature not easily understood. The doorways in the -interior of the tower are all of late work—similar to that of the -sixteenth century in Scotland. <a href="#fig_636">Fig. 636</a> shows the upper part of the -interior of the west door. The style of the work is clearly late. The -initials A. M. may stand for the name of Mallet, as there seem to be -three mallets on the shield.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_636" id="fig_636"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_235.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_235.png" width="348" height="346" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 636.</span>—Culross Abbey. Interior of Doorway of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tower (<a href="#fig_637">Fig. 637</a>) measures 84 feet high to the top of the parapet; it -has been operated on at various times. The projecting round -staircase-turret is an addition of, perhaps, the fifteenth century; the -lower part of the tower, as is evident from the west doorway, is -probably of the thirteenth century. It is groin vaulted at the first -story, as shown on Plan. This vault, and all above, are of sixteenth -century work, with the exception of the upper part above the cornice, -which dates from this century. The old finishing of the tower is shown -by Slezer to have been carried out with a cape house and bartisan like -the pele towers, or as shown at the churches of Torphichen, Dysart, and -Dundee.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236">{236}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_637" id="fig_637"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_236.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_236.png" width="442" height="612" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 637.</span>—Culross Abbey. Tower from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237">{237}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_638" id="fig_638"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_237.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_237.png" width="622" height="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 638.</span>—Culross Abbey. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238">{238}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_639" id="fig_639"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_238.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_238.png" width="480" height="376" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 639.</span>—Culross Abbey. North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The doorway from the tower to the east church and the passage leading to -the chapel, which stood on the east side of the transept, are late -Gothic. The east church, as already stated, is a complete cruciform -structure, having choir, transepts, and nave in itself. The north -transept (see <a href="#fig_637">Fig. 637</a>) was built, in 1640, by George Bruce of Carnock, -it is surmised, on older foundations. The south transept is, generally -speaking, old; it had an east aisle, opening by two arches from the -transept and one arch from the choir. This aisle is now removed, and the -arches are built up, but their outlines are visible from the exterior -(<a href="#fig_638">Fig. 638</a>). This aisle is shown by Slezer with a lean-to roof against -the transept. In the corresponding position on the north side there -appears to have been a similar aisle; part of its east wall still exists -(<a href="#fig_639">Fig. 639</a>), with an early two-light window, and the remains of what -appears to have been a canopied tomb,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239">{239}</a></span> although Mr. Beveridge<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> -regards it as being the doorway to the north aisle. Built against the -wall, in an upright position, is the recumbent figure probably belonging -to this tomb.</p> - -<p>All the original windows of the east church, which were large and -important, have been built up during this century, and smaller windows -of a debased type inserted, with the exception of the east window (see -<a href="#fig_638">Fig. 638</a>), which is original, and is of good design; but even this is -lost to the interior, being partitioned off in order to allow a gallery -stair to pass it.</p> - -<p>A part of the west wall of a chapel, which formerly existed to the north -of the tower, is indicated by the jamb and springing of a window. A -sketch section of its mouldings is given in Fig. 640, as also a section -of the mouldings of the door to the turret, which entered from this -chapel. These mouldings are evidently not earlier than late fourteenth -century work. There are two seventeenth century burial vaults adjoining -the north transept. In the larger of these is the fine monument to Sir -Robert Bruce of Carnock, illustrated in <i>The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 207.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_640" id="fig_640"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_239.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_239.png" width="129" height="141" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 640.</span>—Culross Abbey.</p> - -<p>Sections of Mouldings of <br />Chapel Window and Turret Door.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Adjoining the south transept on the south is the sacristy, now converted -into a vestry, and hardly to be recognised as old, owing to alterations. -The shape and position of this apartment clearly indicate its original -use; it had the usual east window, now built up, and has otherwise been -altered.</p> - -<p>To the south of the sacristy was the chapter house, which also occupied -its normal position. Just enough remains to enable it to be identified, -viz., the northmost of the usual three west openings to the cloister -(<a href="#fig_641">Fig. 641</a>), with the jamb and springing of the central opening, or as -much of it as can be seen for the modern walls that are built up against -it. This fragment, even in its mutilated state, is a fine example of -first pointed work. The inner order of the arch mouldings has fallen -away, and otherwise the work has been greatly destroyed, its beauty not -having been appreciated. The shafts and arch mouldings (<a href="#fig_642">Fig. 642</a>) are -all of very bold and pure design. The caps and bases are rounded, and -the hood mould, which was also a string course, is ornamented with the -dog-tooth. The chapter house had two rows of columns, as is evident from -the remains of the springing of the first arch from between the two -existing openings as shown in <a href="#fig_641">Fig. 641</a> and the Plan (<a href="#fig_642">Fig. 642</a>). It was -usual for the two side openings to be unglazed windows rather than -doors, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240">{240}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_641" id="fig_641"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_240.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_240.png" height="550" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 641.</span>—Culross Abbey. Opening to Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241">{241}</a></span></p> - -<p>Mr. Sharp, in his paper on “The Architecture of the Cistercians,”<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> -points out that it was common for the three openings to be doorways, -with the peculiarity seen here that they were not intended to have -doors.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_642" id="fig_642"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_241.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_241.png" width="232" height="160" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 642.</span>—Culross Abbey. <span style="margin-left:15%;">Door to Chapter House.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_643" id="fig_643"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_241-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_241-b.png" width="452" height="279" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 643.</span>—Culross Abbey. Entrance to West Side of -Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Of the western alley of the cloister there are considerable remains. The -manse, adjoining the nave, appears to include a part of the original<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242">{242}</a></span> -buildings. It is dated on the Plan “1647,” that figure being carved on a -dormer; but portions of the walls are undoubtedly older, and possibly a -thorough examination might reveal ancient features. To the south of the -manse is the vaulted entrance to the cloister (<a href="#fig_643">Fig. 643</a>), and further -southward the truncated remains of the building shown in Fig. 644. The -latter enters from the exterior by a narrow door, having a stair in the -thickness of the wall adjoining leading to the upper floor. As already -mentioned, there are extensive cellars beneath. This range of buildings -was what Mr. Sharp calls the Domus Conversorum,<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> or the place for the -workmen and servants of the monastery, which contained their day room on -the ground floor and dormitory above.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_644" id="fig_644"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_242.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_242.png" width="444" height="395" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 644.</span>—Culross Abbey. Chamber on West Side of -Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>About a quarter of a mile north from the abbey there exist the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243">{243}</a></span> remains -of a lodge, with indications of an arched “pend.” The lodge is still in -use, but quite modernised. This archway was probably an entrance to the -grounds of the abbey.</p> - -<p>The most remarkable feature of the edifice is the tower which divides -the east church from the west. From its architecture we may at once -conclude that the upper portion is a structure of late date, probably of -the sixteenth century. The interior doorway (see <a href="#fig_636">Fig. 636</a>) is clearly of -about that period, but some of the features of the lower story seem, as -above mentioned, to point to that part being of an earlier time, -probably thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>The puzzle here is to understand how this solid tower should have been -set down in the centre of the church, thus completely cutting off the -western portion from the eastern, and forming two separate churches. Two -possible solutions of this difficulty present themselves.</p> - -<p>1. The two churches may have been intentionally kept separate, the -western portion being the parish church and the eastern that of the -monks. Such an arrangement is unusual in Scotland, but Mr. Freeman has -described several churches in England where one portion belonged to the -parishioners and the remainder to the monks. The chief difficulty -connected with this theory is that the parish of Culross (as above -mentioned) was provided with a separate parish church at a little -distance away.<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a></p> - -<p>2. The second supposition is that, in course of time, the monastery may -have dwindled, and the buildings may have fallen into disrepair. The -question would then arise whether it would not be better to diminish the -size of the church by abandoning the western portion and erecting the -tower where it stands. This might have occurred towards the close of the -fifteenth century. But there are difficulties connected with this -solution of the problem also. The tower shows the springing and jambs of -windows on its west side, which appear to be of about the same date as -itself, thus indicating the intention of continuing the structure -westwards and restoring the old west church.</p> - -<h3>THE OLD PARISH CHURCH OF CULROSS, <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>A ruinous structure, situated about one mile north-west from the abbey. -It is a plain oblong (<a href="#fig_645">Fig. 645</a>), 71 feet long by 16 feet wide (inside), -with walls about 3 feet thick, but parts of them have been recently -rebuilt on the old foundations. It is thus impossible to say what<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244">{244}</a></span> the -original arrangement of doors and windows may have been, only one small -pointed window, which seems to be original, remaining next the south -doorway. A north and south doorway face one another towards the west -end, but these have evidently been inserted at a late date. Both -doorways have straight lintels (<a href="#fig_646">Fig. 646</a>), and these consist of ancient -tombstones, carved with foliaged crosses and swords (<a href="#fig_647">Fig. 647</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_645" id="fig_645"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_244.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_244.png" width="363" height="208" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 645.</span>—The Old Parish Church of Culross. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_646" id="fig_646"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_244-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_244-b.png" width="369" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 646.</span>—The Old Parish Church of Culross. Interior, -looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Numerous other recumbent tombstones are found in the church, and some -have been placed against the east wall when it was rebuilt. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245">{245}</a></span> top stone -containing the socket for a cross is preserved at the east end. The -south doorway has probably had a porch.</p> - -<p>This church had apparently fallen into decay before the Reformation, for -in 1633 an Act was passed making the abbey the parish church, and -stating that the abbey church had been used for preaching since the -Reformation, and that the church called the “Parioche Kirk, where -service is not nor has been since the memory of man, is altogether -ruinous, decayed, and fallen down in certain parts.”</p> - -<p>It is still surrounded with the old burying-ground, which contains some -interesting monuments. A large tombhouse has been built, like a -transept, on the south side of the church. It appears to be an erection -of the seventeenth century.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_647" id="fig_647"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_245.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_245.png" width="119" height="183" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 647.</span></p> - -<p>The Old Parish Church of Culross.<br /> Tombstones used as Door Lintels.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>BEAULY PRIORY, <span class="smcap">Inverness-shire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This monastery was pleasantly situated on the north side of the river -Beauly, not far from the point where it falls into the sea at the head -of the Beauly Frith, which forms the inner portion of the Moray Frith. -The land is level and fertile, and the scenery on the river is very -beautiful. The priory is about ten miles west from Inverness, and about -one mile from Beauly Railway Station. It is believed to have been -founded in 1230, and was thereafter endowed by Sir John Bisset of -Lovat.<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> The priory was dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and was -occupied by seven French monks of the Order of Valliscaulium. This was -one of the strict orders established at the time of the revival of -religion in the twelfth century. The mother house of the order was at -Langres, in Burgundy. Of this order there were only three priories in -Scotland: one at Pluscarden, in Morayshire; one at Ardchattan, in -Argyle; and one at Beauly. The monks were austere in their lives, and -formed a centre of devotion and enlightenment in the midst of these wild -and uncivilised districts. The charter of the foundation was confirmed -by Pope Gregory <small>XI.</small> in 1231. The priory was probably erected during the -thirteenth century, but its records are few for a long period.</p> - -<p>The Frasers succeeded the Bysets in the lands surrounding the priory, -and Hugh Fraser, who was first Lord of Lovat, died in 1398. His son,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246">{246}</a></span> -Alexander, was a great benefactor of the priory, and is said to have -erected a beautiful steeple of carved oak on the west gable, and put -curious bells therein.</p> - -<p>Hugh Fraser (about 1430-40) afforded means for building the north work -of the priory and the chapel of the Holy Cross.</p> - -<p>The church was soon after repaired at the expense of the superior, a -natural son of Alexander of Kintail, who was there buried, <small>A.D.</small> 1479. -His tomb is opposite that of his brother, Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of -Kintail, with the date 1491. Sir Kenneth was the first of his family who -was buried at Beauly, having married a daughter of Lord Lovat and -obtained the Beauly property.</p> - -<p>In 1530 Abbot Robert Reid of Kinloss received a gift of the Abbey of -Beauly <i>in commendam</i>.<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> It is recorded by Ferrerius that many new -buildings were erected and old ones repaired by this abbot. He is stated -to have collected materials in 1537 and to have rebuilt the nave in -1540, and the structure bears evidence of his operations. He also -restored the bell tower, which had been destroyed by lightning; but in -1541 that work was demolished, and the bells destroyed by a violent -storm, which also did much damage throughout the country.</p> - -<p>In 1544 Bishop Reid (being now promoted to the See of Orkney) removed -the ruinous house of the prior, and erected a new and spacious house, -with six vaults on the basement; but of this structure there is now no -trace.</p> - -<p>Robert Reid was succeeded, as commendator, by his nephew, Walter Reid, -who was also his successor in the abbacy of Kinloss. The possessions of -the Priory of Beauly were alienated, in 1571, by Walter, the new -commendator, as were also those of Kinloss. The lands thus became the -property of the Lovat family. On the forfeiture of Lord Lovat, in 1516, -the abbey reverted to the Crown.</p> - -<p>The priory consisted of the church, with a cloister to the south, which -was, in all probability, surrounded by the usual monastic buildings; but -the latter, including the spacious prior’s house erected by Bishop Reid, -have almost entirely disappeared. The walls of the church (<a href="#fig_648">Fig. 648</a>) -survive, but even these have been sadly abused. The buttresses have all -been torn down, apparently for the sake of the freestone dressings, and -the tracery of the windows has been greatly demolished.</p> - -<p>The church consists of a single long aisleless chamber, a little over -150 feet in length by 24 feet 6 inches in width (within the walls). The -eastern part formed the presbytery and choir, and the western part the -nave, but there is no architectural feature to mark the divisions. About -the place where a transept might have been there are two projections, -which break the long line of the exterior. These projecting chambers or -chapels are shut off from the main church by solid walls containing -door<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247">{247}</a></span>ways and monuments. They thus formed separate chapels, or one of -them may have been a sacristy. The architecture of the choir and -presbytery (<a href="#fig_649">Fig. 649</a>) is remarkably fine, and is of first pointed -character. Although in this remote region its date may probably be later -than usual, it can scarcely be, as Mr. Muir suggests, so late as the -beginning of the fourteenth century.</p> - -<p>The details are very simple, the jambs and arches having plain splays. -The caps of the shafts adjoining the windows in the interior are moulded -and have round abaci, but the shafts, which were detached in the early -manner, have disappeared. The arrangement of the arches is different on -the two opposite sides. The east window was very wide, and, doubtless, -was filled with tracery, which had several mullions. This may have been -a later addition; the tracery has entirely disappeared. The lower -portions of the buttresses of the choir have been rebuilt within recent -years, probably in consequence of an agreement entered into between Lord -Lovat and the Crown, whereby the former undertakes to keep the buildings -in good repair.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_648" id="fig_648"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_247.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_247.png" width="440" height="231" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 648.</span>—Beauly Priory. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The most striking feature of the nave is the row of triangular pointed -windows running along the south side (<a href="#fig_650">Fig. 650</a>). These have evidently -been curtailed in height in the design, so as to admit of the roof of -the cloister walk resting against the south wall of the church, the -corbels for its support being yet visible. The west end of this wall has -evidently had domestic buildings of a high and substantial character -erected against it, some fragments of which still remain, showing a -fireplace, portions of a staircase, &c. (see <a href="#fig_650">Fig. 650</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248">{248}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_649" id="fig_649"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_248.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_248.png" width="438" height="365" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 649.</span>—Beauly Priory. Choir, looking East.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The western façade bears the marks of Bishop Reid’s workmanship, and is -no doubt part of what is meant to be attributed to him when it is said -that he rebuilt the nave. The triangular south windows above mentioned, -and the two light pointed windows on the south side of the nave, are -undoubtedly much earlier than his date, which was about 1540-50, but -other parts of the walls of the nave may have been re-erected by him -when he restored the west end. The latter (see <a href="#fig_650">Fig. 650</a>) is beyond doubt -his work. The doorway in the centre, the arch of which is semicircular, -contains the monogram I.H.S. on one of the label terminations, while the -other drip stone shows two hands and two feet, with a heart in the -centre (<a href="#fig_651">Fig. 651</a>), emblems of the Passion. The arch of the doorway is -round; but this, as we have seen elsewhere, is a common feature in -Scottish work of all dates, and occurs especially often in late work.</p> - -<p>The upper part of the west wall contains three pointed lancet windows, -and is an example of the revival of early features in late work. Some -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249">{249}</a></span> the windows in the side walls are of similar form, and are probably -of the same date. The sill of the central window in the west end is kept -high, so as to admit of a shallow ogee-headed niche for a figure over -the entrance door. The figure may have represented the Baptist, but the -niche is now empty. On a panel on the sill are Bishop Reid’s initials, -R. R., and his arms, a stag’s head (see <a href="#fig_651">Fig. 651</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_650" id="fig_650"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_249.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_249.png" width="420" height="259" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 650.</span>—Beauly Priory. Nave from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The part of the church which projects to the north measures 25 feet by -22 feet 6 inches internally. It has been vaulted in two bays, the vaults -springing from corbels in the walls; part of the vault still remains. -This chamber is said to have been the sacristy. It has a turret at the -north-west angle, containing a stair to the roof. In a recess in the -wall which divides this chapel from the choir lies the tomb -(abovementioned) of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of Kintail.</p> - -<p>We have seen that the “north work” was erected at the expense of Hugh -Fraser (1430-40), and the style of this chapel corresponds with that -date.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_651" id="fig_651"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_249-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_249-b.png" width="161" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 651.</span>—Beauly Priory.</p> -<p>Drip Stone and Panel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The repairs carried out by Prior Alexander were probably the work -required for the erection of the tomb of Sir Kenneth and his own tomb,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250">{250}</a></span> -which was in a recess in the choir on the opposite side of the wall from -that of Sir Kenneth.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_652" id="fig_652"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_250.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_250.png" width="347" height="452" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 652.</span>—Beauly Priory. Tomb of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tomb of Sir Kenneth (<a href="#fig_652">Fig. 652</a>) is a good specimen of the work of the -period, and is very similar to other tombs of the same kind at Fortrose -and Fearn. The recumbent figure, clad in full armour, rests on an -arcaded tomb or pedestal, and the recess, which is covered with a -pointed canopy, is enriched with a crocketed label and pinnacle bearing -a shield, and the whole tomb is flanked by two thin buttresses. On the -sill is engraved the following inscription:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251">{251}</a></span>—“Hic Jacet Kanyens M. -Kynych d’us de Kyntayl. q. obiit dii Februarii A. Di <small>M.CCCC.LXXXXI.</small>”</p> - -<p>The chamber to the south of the choir has also contained monuments, but -they are now destroyed. It measures 22 feet by 17 feet internally, and -seems to have been connected by a door with the conventual buildings to -the south. It has contained two stories, the upper story forming a -gallery, connected with the church by a wide arch (see <a href="#fig_649">Fig. 649</a>).</p> - -<p>The choir contains a double piscina, near the east end, in a good first -pointed style.</p> - -<p>Under the triangular windows in the south wall of the nave are a piscina -and ambry. These mark the position of an altar, which may have been -erected at the rood screen, which probably separated the nave from the -choir at this point, thus dividing the portion of the church open to the -parishioners from that reserved for the clerics. Opposite this piscina -there is a door (now built up) in the north wall, and near it, on the -outside, there is another piscina. This may possibly mark the position -of another chapel, which may have been that of the Holy Cross above, -said to have been erected by Hugh Fraser in the fifteenth century.</p> - -<h3>NEWBATTLE OR NEWBOTLE ABBEY,<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<p>Newbotle Abbey or, as it is now called (without the name having any -special meaning), Newbattle Abbey is situated on the river Esk, about -two miles south from Dalkeith. It was founded by David <small>I.</small> in the year -1140, for monks of the Cistercian order, who were brought to Newbotle -(or new residence) from Melrose. The “leader of the colony” appears to -have been Ralph, the first abbot, who obtained numerous gifts and -privileges for the convent, and consecrated a “cemetery within the -precinct of the monastery.” The second abbot, Alfred, who died in 1179, -was also a great benefactor to the abbey. He brought to it many relics, -which he enclosed in a silver chest. “He adorned the chapter house with -handsome seats, and also erected proper stalls, with convenient desks or -<i>menologies</i> of wood, in the cloisters on the side where the ‘collation’ -or reading of the lives of the saints was held, for the use of the -brethren during the reading of collation before compline at the washing -of feet at Maunday.”<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a></p> - -<p>During the time of the tenth abbot, Constantine, the church was -dedicated by Andrew de Moravia, Bishop of Moray, in March 1233.</p> - -<p>In the year 1241, Mary de Couci, queen of Alexander <small>II.</small>, “looking to her -time of peril, and impressed with the frail tenure of life, bequeathed -her body to be buried in the church of Newbotle.”<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> This would seem -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252">{252}</a></span> indicate that the fabric of the church, if not finished by this -time, was far advanced. Mary de Couci survived for about thirty years, -when her desire to be buried here was carried out; and Father Hay -describes her tomb, apparently from the record of an eye-witness. “In -the midst of the church was seen the tomb of the queen of King -Alexander, of marble, supported on six lions of marble. A human figure -was placed reclining on the tomb, surrounded with an iron grating.”<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a></p> - -<p>In 1275 Waldeve, the seventeenth abbot, “going the way of all flesh, -with blessed end, departed to the Lord, leaving his house in full peace -and excellent condition.”</p> - -<p>Gervase, the nineteenth abbot, who demitted office in 1323, settled for -ever on the infirmary of the abbey an annual rent of three merks, “to be -expended for the uses of the sick and the recreation of the feeble.”<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> -These few notices seem to show that about the middle of the fourteenth -century the abbey was in a fairly complete state. It possessed great -estates in the counties of the Lothians, Lanark, Peebles, and Stirling. -Father Hay writes that, about this time, he “finds, from the books of -receipts and expenses, the annual income of the monastery could maintain -eighty monks and seventy lay brethren, with the corresponding -establishment.”<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a></p> - -<p>But evil days were at hand. In 1385, during the expedition of Richard -<small>II.</small>, “the English,” writes Father Hay, “burnt the monastery of Newbotle; -and, at the same time, several of the granges and farms of the monastery -were destroyed, and the others were deserted, while the lands were left -untilled. The towers or peles, built by the monastery for protection -against English marauders, fared in the same way. Some of the monks were -carried away prisoners; others fled to other monasteries. The few who -remained in the abbey, having scarce sufficient food, were compelled, by -great distress, to sell twenty-nine excellent chalices, nine crosses of -exquisite workmanship, and other sacred ornaments, with their silver -household plate. At that time the greater part of the abbey tower was -ruined by the falling of the cross.” These events happened during the -time of Hugh, the twenty-third abbot.</p> - -<p>The work of restoration was, doubtless, gone on with as soon as -convenient; and, in 1390, Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith, by his will, -gave his body to be buried in the monastery of St. Mary of Newbotle. “At -the same time he bequeathed to the abbey a ‘nowche,’ or jewel of St. -John, worth 40 merks, or its value, and, in addition, £23, 6s. 8d. for -the building of the church and wages of the masons employed upon it. For -the service of the monks’ refectory he gave twelve silver dishes, -weighing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253">{253}</a></span> eighteen pounds, six shillings sterling, enjoining his heirs -to see that they should not be abstracted from the use of the refectory -or sold.”<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> Two years later Sir James, in another will, bequeaths -similar sums to the abbey, without appropriating a part to the building -or to the payment of workmen, which seems to show, as Mr. Innes remarks, -that the rebuilding of the abbey church had been completed in the -meantime.</p> - -<p>In 1419 Edward of Crechton paid a sum for the restoring and building of -the monastery.</p> - -<p>In the Hertford expedition of 1544, “upon the 15th day of May the -horsmen raid to Newbottill and brynt it.”<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> As is remarked by Mr. -Innes,<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> this was, perhaps, but a partial destruction, as, three years -afterwards, Mary of Lorraine held at Newbotle a great convention of the -lords of her party, preparatory to declaring war with England.</p> - -<p>The last so-called abbot was Mark Ker. He is styled Commendator of -Newbotle in 1560; and the lordship of Newbotle, being conferred on his -son, has remained with their descendants to the present day.</p> - -<p>Such is the scanty history of this great abbey, so far as relates to the -structure and ornaments; but of the former almost nothing remains above -ground except part of the monastic buildings on the east side of the -cloisters.</p> - -<p>The abbey, including the church, appears to have been almost completely -demolished shortly after the Reformation, the only parts of the monastic -buildings allowed to remain being the fratry and portions of the -chapter house, which were incorporated with the mansion house, and of -the former of which a view has already been given.<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a></p> - -<p>The accompanying Plan (<a href="#fig_653">Fig. 653</a>) has been prepared by Mr. John Ramsay, -the resident Clerk of Works to the Marquis of Lothian, showing the -result of considerable excavations recently carried out at the building, -together with some details which have been discovered. The Plan shows -that the buildings extended about 400 feet from north to south by about -270 feet from east to west, and that the monastery was of the usual -plan.</p> - -<p>The recent excavations deal chiefly with the foundations of the abbey -and church, although explorations within the mansion have also brought -to light some old work hitherto concealed from view. The first discovery -of the existence of buried portions of the abbey was made in 1878, when -some works were in progress; and again, in 1892,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254">{254}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_653" id="fig_653"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_254.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_254.png" width="434" height="632" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:75%; -text-align:left;"> -<tr valign="top"><td class="nind"> -A. Presbytery.<br /> -B. Crossing.<br /> -C. Nave.<br /> -D. North Transept.<br /> -E. South Transept.<br /> -F. Slype or Sacristy.<br /> -G. Chapter House.<br /> -</td><td class="nind"> -H. Fratry.<br /> -I. Large Hall.<br /> -J. Necessaria.<br /> -K. Kitchen.<br /> -L. Refectory.<br /> -M. Passage with Stair.<br /> -N. Cellars.<br /> -</td><td class="nind"> -O. Entrance to Cloister.<br /> -P. Perhaps Porter’s Room.<br /> -Q. Cellars or Workshops.<br /> -R. Necessaria of the Conversi.<br /> -S. S. Arched Culverts, separated by a Wall.<br /> -T. South Boundary Wall. -</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 653.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255">{255}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">when digging was going on connected with the planting of trees, some -further remains were found. But in 1893-4 a systematic search was made, -both above and below ground, which enabled an almost complete Plan of -the abbey to be accurately measured and laid down.<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_654" id="fig_654"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_255.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_255.png" width="473" height="294" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 654.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Bases in West Side of -Cloister (at <span class="lettre">Q</span>).</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The total length of the abbey church, within the walls, was 239 feet 3 -inches, and on the exterior 253 feet 3 inches; while the interior width -was 57 feet 1 inch, and the exterior width (excluding the buttresses) -was 66 feet 7 inches. The nave, which contained ten bays, had a length -of 161 feet 6 inches, and its central aisle a width of 31 feet, while -the side aisles were 13 feet. The choir and presbytery comprised one bay -and a-half, and had two large piers, each 10 feet in diameter. The -crossing had four similar large piers, and measured 41 feet 9 inches -over the piers. The piers supported a tower over the crossing. The -transept was 117 feet 6 inches in length from north to south, and had an -eastern aisle, making the width 45 feet. The north transept had enormous -angle buttresses and a square pier. The large piers and flat angle -buttresses of the choir indicate early work, probably Norman.</p> - -<p>The great angle buttresses at the north transepts belong, doubtless,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256">{256}</a></span> to -a late period. The Plan clearly shows that they have been added to -existing flat buttresses, in the same manner as was done at the east -wall of St. Andrews Cathedral. Unfortunately, no details have been -discovered to enable the date to be more definitely fixed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_655" id="fig_655"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_256.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_256.png" width="410" height="554" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 655.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257">{257}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_656" id="fig_656"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_257.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_257.png" width="210" height="344" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 656.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Seated Figure of -Ecclesiastic.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The east side of the cloister, which is included in the modern mansion, -extends southwards from the church for a distance of about 200 feet. -Adjoining the transept has been the slype or sacristy; then comes the -chapter house, of which only the bases of a double row of pillars -remain. It was about 35 feet long by 27 feet wide, and projected towards -the east; but the east end, being under the mansion, cannot be explored. -The buildings adjoining to the south are well preserved on the ground -floor. They are erroneously designated the crypts, as they are entirely -above ground. The long range, with central pillars, was the fratry, -beyond which was a large hall. On the south side of the cloister there -was a passage and a well-preserved kitchen, with a large fireplace, -measuring 12 feet 6 inches by 6 feet, and having still traces of smoke. -Adjoining it, to the west, are the foundations of the refectory, 106 -feet long by 33 feet 6 inches wide. It will be observed that, as usual -in Scotland, the refectory is parallel with the church. On the west side -of the cloister the foundations of several buildings have been laid -bare. Next the nave there has been a passage containing a staircase to -the dormitory of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258">{258}</a></span> conversi; then came a large apartment, 67 feet -long by 28 feet 6 inches wide; then the entrance passage to the -cloister, 6 feet 2 inches wide, with a doorway 4 feet 9 inches wide. To -the south of this is another large apartment, 68 feet long by 23 feet 9 -inches wide, having foundations of a central row of pillars, the bases -of which are all different (<a href="#fig_654">Fig. 654</a>). Still farther south are found -remains of a large arched conduit or drain, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and -the same height.</p> - -<p>In the vaulted fratry there stands an old font (<a href="#fig_655">Fig. 655</a>), which was -found at Mavisbank House, some miles distant, about the year 1873, by -workmen when digging for foundations of proposed new buildings. On the -supposition that it contained the arms of Abbot Hasmall, and therefore -belonged to Newbattle, it was brought here. It is interesting as being -evidently intended, from the coats of arms with which it is adorned, to -be a memorial of the royal family during the first half of the sixteenth -century. The arms it contains are:—</p> - -<p class="hang">1st Shield.—Arms of Ramsay.</p> - -<p class="hang">2nd Shield.—Arms of Margaret of England (daughter of Henry <small>VII.</small>), -wife of James <small>IV.</small></p> - -<p class="hang">3rd Shield.—Arms of Magdalene of France (daughter of Francis <small>I.</small>), -first wife of James <small>V.</small></p> - -<p class="hang">4th Shield.—Arms of Scotland (James <small>V.</small>)</p> - -<p class="hang">5th Shield.—Arms of Marie of Lorraine (daughter of Claude, Duke of -Guise), second wife of James <small>V.</small></p> - -<p class="hang">6th Shield.—Supposed to be the arms of James Hasmall, Abbot of -Newbotle (1542-1554).<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a></p> - -<p class="hang">7th and 8th Shields.—Blank.</p> - -<p>Only the bowl of the font is old. It is octagonal, and measures about 2 -feet 6½ inches in width and 12½ inches across each face. The height of -the bowl is 1 foot 7½ inches, and the depth 13½ inches, with a square -hole at bottom.</p> - -<p>There is also preserved at Newbattle the seated figure of an -ecclesiastic, holding a book on his knee (<a href="#fig_656">Fig. 656</a>). It is probably a -work of the fourteenth or fifteenth century, as in the earlier years of -Cistercian rule figure representations were prohibited; and the little -rosette ornament seen on the sedilia indicates that period. The head is -unfortunately broken, but the figure otherwise is beautifully preserved. -The total<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259">{259}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_657" id="fig_657"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_259-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_259-a.png" width="374" height="257" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 657.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Mouldings.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_658" id="fig_658"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_259-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_259-b.png" width="288" height="315" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 658.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Doorway, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260">{260}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">height of the fragment is about 27¼ inches, and the breadth about 15 -inches, with a relief of about 5 inches.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_659" id="fig_659"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_260.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_260.png" width="250" height="273" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 659.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Mouldings of Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_660" id="fig_660"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_260-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_260-b.png" width="643" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 660.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Mouldings.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A number of stones containing mouldings have been found, some of the -sections of which are shown. Some of the mouldings (as in Figs. <a href="#fig_657">657</a>, -<a href="#fig_658">658</a>, and <a href="#fig_659">659</a>) are early, while the other mouldings (as in Figs. <a href="#fig_660">660</a>, -<a href="#fig_661">661</a>, and <a href="#fig_662">662</a>) are for the most part late. It is not known to what parts -of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261">{261}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_661" id="fig_661"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_261-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_261-a.png" width="285" height="239" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 661.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Mouldings.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_662" id="fig_662"></a><a name="fig_663" id="fig_663"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_261-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_261-b.png" width="375" height="252" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 662.</span>—Newbattle Abbey.</p> - -<p>Vaulting Ribs.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 663.</span>—Newbattle Abbey.</p> - -<p>Cap and Base of Doorway.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">building any of these details belonged, except in the case of Fig. 659, -which is from the doorway at the west end of the refectory. The door -entered from the western cloister walk, and is partly <i>in situ</i>. -<a href="#fig_663">Fig. 663</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262">{262}</a></span> represents a cap and base supposed to belong to the nave arcade, -from their having been found in the nave.</p> - -<p><a href="#fig_660">Fig. 660</a> gives a series of arch mouldings, one of them being a window, -with its mullion. The door jamb, with its base mouldings (<a href="#fig_661">Fig. 661</a>), is -probably a fifteenth or sixteenth century piece of work.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_664" id="fig_664"></a><a name="fig_665" id="fig_665"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_262.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_262.png" width="449" height="394" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p style="text-indent:4%;text-align:left;"><span class="smcap">Fig. 664.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Tiles.</p> - -<p style="text-indent:4%;text-align:left;">A. An Olive-Green Ground, White Pattern.</p> - -<p style="text-indent:4%;text-align:left;">B. A Red Pattern on a White Ground.</p> - -<p style="text-indent:4%;text-align:left;">The different colours are done in the surface glazing.<br /> It is put on -about ⅛ inch thick, and the thickness of the tiles from 1¼ to 1½ -inch.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 665.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Tiles. -</p> -<p>Ground Dark Green. Yellow Pattern, on a cut out Tile.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p><a href="#fig_662">Fig. 662</a> shows a series of vaulting ribs, the two upper ones being of a -somewhat early date, while the others are later in character.</p> - -<p>Many tiles have been found in the ruins, which are now preserved in the -house; and a few of them are illustrated. In <a href="#fig_664">Fig. 664</a> we have two square -tiles, the lesser one having an olive-green ground with a white pattern; -the larger one is a red pattern on a white ground. Those shown on -<a href="#fig_665">Figs. 665</a> and <a href="#fig_666">666</a> are shaped tiles, cut out by hand to the actual form of the -figure, so that each separate tile is of one colour—in <a href="#fig_665">Fig. 665</a> it is a -dark<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263">{263}</a></span> green ground with a yellow figure, and on <a href="#fig_666">Fig. 666</a> a black and -brown ground with a white figure.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_666" id="fig_666"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_263.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_263.png" width="347" height="312" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 666.</span>—Newbattle Abbey. Details of Tiles.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>LISMORE CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Argyleshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Island of Lismore lies near the south end of Loch Linnhe, and at a -short distance from the mainland of Argyleshire. In 1236 the See of the -Bishopric of Argyle was transferred from Mackairn, on the south side of -Loch Etive, to Lismore, where a Columban monastery had been founded by -St. Moluoc at an early period.</p> - -<p>The cathedral was probably erected soon after the transference of the -see in the thirteenth century. It is said to have been a structure 137 -feet in length by 29⅓ feet in width. Of this pile there now only -survives a single quadrilateral chamber, without aisles, used as the -parish church, and measuring internally 51 feet in length by 23 feet 6 -inches in width (<a href="#fig_667">Fig. 667</a>). It has four buttresses of simple form -against the south wall, and two at each of the north and south angles of -the east wall. The walls and buttresses are entirely covered with rough -casting. There is a doorway near the centre of the south wall (<a href="#fig_668">Fig. 668</a>) -which has had a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264">{264}</a></span> nook shaft on each side, and a round arched head with a -water table, but its details are destroyed. In the interior the arched -head is segmental, and the label has bold first pointed terminals -(<a href="#fig_669">Fig. 669</a>). There has also been a sharply pointed doorway in the north wall -(<a href="#fig_670">Fig. 670</a>)—now built up—which retains in the interior a label moulding -with head terminations, one being the head of a bishop.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_667" id="fig_667"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_264-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_264-a.png" width="237" height="156" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 667.</span>—Lismore Cathedral. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_668" id="fig_668"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_264-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_264-b.png" width="440" height="264" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 668.</span>—Lismore Cathedral. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the south wall, and in the usual position near the east end, there -are remains of a triple sedilia, much damaged, but having shafts between -the seats, with moulded caps (<a href="#fig_671">Fig. 671</a>). There is also a piscina in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265">{265}</a></span> -pointed recess, having a trefoil headed niche in the wall behind, all -much damaged (see <a href="#fig_671">Fig. 671</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_669" id="fig_669"></a><a name="fig_670" id="fig_670"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_265-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_265-a.png" width="305" height="152" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 669.</span>—Lismore Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Interior Terminal of South Doorway.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 670.</span>—Lismore Cathedral.</p> - -<p>North Doorway. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>In the exterior of the north wall, and near the buttress at the east -end, there has been an ambry. This ambry, together with the absence of -buttresses on the north side, seems to indicate that there was a -building on that side, probably in the form of an aisle, connected with -the cathedral. The eastmost portion was probably the sacristy, which -would enter by the north doorway. On the south side of the church the -wall, with its buttresses (see <a href="#fig_668">Fig. 668</a>), has evidently been the -exterior of the church. It contains a segmental headed modern window in -each bay. The south buttress of the east wall is widened at the lower -part, and contains a round arched recess, in which there has probably -been a monument. The east end has been greatly altered, and has had a -staircase block built against it, and a gallery door and high window -inserted.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_671" id="fig_671"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_265-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_265-b.png" width="184" height="129" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 671.</span>—Lismore Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Piscina and Cap of Shafts of Sedilia.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The western wall, with its doorway, which has plain sloping jambs all -covered with rough-cast, is, doubtless, a comparatively recent -construction, built when the choir was converted into the parish church -and reroofed in 1749.</p> - -<p>There are traces of old buildings to the west, which are now used as -private burial-grounds, but it is impossible to say what purpose they -formerly served.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266">{266}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ST. KENTIGERN’S, <span class="smcap">Lanark, Lanarkshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Parish Church of Lanark existed in the twelfth century, and was -conveyed, with its possessions, to the Abbey of Dryburgh by David <small>I.</small> -This conveyance is frequently confirmed in subsequent deeds.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_672" id="fig_672"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_266-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_266-a.png" width="347" height="153" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 672.</span>—St. Kentigern’s. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_673" id="fig_673"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_266-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_266-b.png" width="507" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 673.</span>—St. Kentigern’s. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church, from time to time, received numerous gifts of lands and -houses from the burgesses and the neighbouring proprietors. Amongst<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267">{267}</a></span> -other endowments, a chaplaincy was founded in the beginning of the -fifteenth century by John Simpson, burgess of the town. The income of -the church and its lands was drawn by the monks of Dryburgh, and the -cure was served by a vicar and curates. At the Reformation the lands -went with the Abbey of Dryburgh, which was erected into a temporal -barony.<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a></p> - -<p>The Church of St. Kentigern was used for service long after the -Reformation, and was only abandoned when a new church was erected in the -middle of the town in 1777.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_674" id="fig_674"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_267-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_267-a.png" width="103" height="72" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>BASE OF DOORWAY AT A</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 674.</span>—St. Kentigern’s.<br /> - Plan and Base of<br /> Doorway Shaft.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_675" id="fig_675"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_267-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_267-b.png" width="56" height="91" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 675.</span><br /> St. Kentigern’s.<br /> - Caps of Piers.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_676" id="fig_676"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_267-c.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_267-c.png" width="423" height="198" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 676.</span>—St. Kentigern’s. South Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>St. Kentigern’s stands in the old burial-ground, about one-quarter of a -mile south-east from the town. It has been of an unusual arrangement of -plan (<a href="#fig_672">Fig. 672</a>), consisting of a double chamber, divided by a row of -pillars and arches down the centre, each division possibly, and one -division certainly, having a chancel at the east end. The northern -division has almost entirely disappeared, but the central row of pillars -and arches (<a href="#fig_673">Fig. 673</a>) and the walls of the southern division are still -fairly preserved. At the point <span class="lettre">A</span> on Plan is the base of a doorway shaft -(<a href="#fig_674">Fig. 674</a>), which was discovered some years ago by excavation. This -possibly represents the north doorway of the church. If so, the north -division was about 2 feet wider than the south division. The south -division is 74 feet in length by 20 feet in width internally. The five -pillars are alternately round and octagonal, and the two responds are -half octagons. The caps (<a href="#fig_675">Fig. 675</a>) are of varied and good design, and -the arches have a double splay on each side.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268">{268}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_677" id="fig_677"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_268.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_268.png" width="448" height="548" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 677.</span>—St. Kentigern’s. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The south wall (<a href="#fig_676">Fig. 676</a>) contains the relics of a fine first pointed -doorway, and five narrow lancet windows with wide splayed reveals -inside. The doorway has had two nook shafts on each side, with markedly -first pointed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269">{269}</a></span> foliage in the caps (<a href="#fig_677">Fig. 677</a>), and the pointed arch has -bold and characteristic mouldings (<a href="#fig_678">Fig. 678</a>). The west wall (see -<a href="#fig_673">Fig. 673</a>) has been much ruined, and is now restored. At the east end there is -a chancel arch fully 8 feet in width. The responds which support it are -half octagons, and the arch has a double splay on each side. There are -traces of small nail-head ornaments on the caps. All the details point -to the work being of the first pointed period. The chancel is entirely -gone, but the marks on the wall show that it has been about twelve feet -in width. There is a small lancet window, with wide internal splay, in -the east wall to the south of the chancel arch, and the latter is placed -close to the central row of pillars. This arrangement seems to have been -adopted so as to bring the chancel as near the centre of the church as -possible, perhaps with the view of enabling it to serve as the chancel -for the whole church, as there may have been no chancel to the east of -the northern division. But this point could only be ascertained by -excavation. To the east of the northern division, where a chancel might -have been, there has been erected (probably in the seventeenth century) -a mausoleum or tombhouse for the family of the Lockharts of Lee. This -rather seems to support the idea that there was no chancel in that -position.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_678" id="fig_678"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_269.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_269.png" width="143" height="160" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 678.</span>—St. Kentigern’s.<br /> Arch Mouldings of South -Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>BURNTISLAND CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>At Kirkton, a village lying a short way north of Burntisland, there -stand, in an old churchyard, the remains of an ancient church, believed -to have been dedicated to St. Adamnan or St. Serf. The church (<a href="#fig_679">Fig. 679</a>) -consists of a nave and chancel and remains of a south aisle. The nave -measures 41 feet 9 inches in length by 20 feet 6 inches in width -externally, and the chancel is 27 feet 6 inches long by 17 feet 9 inches -wide externally. The chancel is architecturally distinguished from the -nave being diminished by 14 inches in width on each side, and the -chancel arch is pointed, with an opening 7 feet 8 inches wide, and -consists of a single plain order springing from imposts having a simple -splay (<a href="#fig_680">Fig. 680</a>). The jambs of the opening are plain, and have a splayed -base. The opening has been built up so as to enclose the chancel for a -private burial-place. The chancel contains the usual priests’ door in -the south wall, and two narrow pointed windows on the same side, greatly -splayed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270">{270}</a></span> to the interior. It is remarkable that there is no window in -the east end, and the north wall is also blank.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_679" id="fig_679"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_270-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_270-a.png" width="300" height="215" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 679.</span>—Burntisland Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_680" id="fig_680"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_270-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_270-b.png" width="458" height="224" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 680.</span>—Burntisland Church. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The south wall of the nave has been removed, probably when a south aisle -was added. Its place was, doubtless, at one time supplied by pillars and -arches, but they are now gone. Part of the outer wall of the south aisle -still remains. To the south of this there is a small building, which may -have been a sacristy, or perhaps a tombhouse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271">{271}</a></span></p> - -<p>The north door to the nave is still partly preserved, and there was -probably a south door opposite it. In the west end, which still exists -(see <a href="#fig_680">Fig. 680</a>), there is a simple pointed window, greatly splayed -within.</p> - -<p>The walls are built with freestone ashlar. All the features seem to -indicate that the church was erected in the thirteenth century, although -it has been surmised that it was rebuilt in the fifteenth century. The -simplicity of the chancel arch and the absence of an east window are -against that supposition.</p> - -<h3>PRESTONKIRK CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Haddingtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_681" id="fig_681"></a><a name="fig_682" id="fig_682"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_271.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_271.png" width="351" height="243" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig 681.</span>—Prestonkirk Church. Plan.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 682.</span>—Prestonkirk Church. <br />Details of Buttress and -Window. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>This church, like several others in the eastern part of this county, is -dedicated to St. Baldred of the Bass Rock.<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> It is situated within a -mile of East Linton Railway Station. The church has originally been a -first pointed edifice, but now there only survives a small eastern choir -of that period, the main body of the church having been rebuilt. The -choir (<a href="#fig_681">Fig. 681</a>), which is now cut off from the church by a solid wall, -is 15 feet long by 17 feet 6 inches wide internally. It has three tall -lancet windows of equal height in the east end (<a href="#fig_683">Fig. 683</a>), separated by -first pointed buttresses of good form, as seen in the detailed sketch -(<a href="#fig_682">Fig. 682</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272">{272}</a></span> The south wall has two simple lancets with hood moulds, and -on both sides there is a broad set-off below the windows. The north wall -is plain, and without special features. The building is a pleasing -fragment of first pointed work.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_683" id="fig_683"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_272.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_272.png" width="456" height="486" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 683.</span>—Prestonkirk Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273">{273}</a></span></p> - -<h3>COWIE CHURCH,<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> <span class="smcap">Kincardineshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_684" id="fig_684"></a><a name="fig_685" id="fig_685"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_273-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_273-a.png" width="378" height="123" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 684.</span>—Cowie Church. Plan.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 685.</span>—Cowie Church.<br /> Moulding of Doorway. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_686" id="fig_686"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_273-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_273-b.png" width="399" height="197" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 686.</span>—Cowie Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This ruined structure, is situated near the coast on the north side of -Stonehaven Bay, about a mile from the town, and stands in an ancient -churchyard still in use. This church is an example of a simple oblong -structure in the first pointed style. It measures (<a href="#fig_684">Fig. 684</a>) 70 feet in -length by 18 feet in width internally. The walls are built with -whinstone, and the door and window dressings are of freestone. The north -wall is broken down to near the level of the ground. The interior has -been lighted by three lancet windows in the east end, and there has also -been a stunted window inserted in the west gable. The doorway is the -only opening in the south wall which is still partly entire. It has a -segmental arched lintel, and is moulded on the outer angle of jambs and -lintel. The moulding (<a href="#fig_685">Fig. 685</a>) would indicate a late period. The north -wall is broken down almost to the foundations. There is a plain -sacrament house in the north wall near the east end.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274">{274}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_687" id="fig_687"></a><a name="fig_688" id="fig_688"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_274.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_274.png" width="319" height="108" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 687.</span>—Cowie Church.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 688.</span>—Cowie Church.</p> - -<p>Inside of East Windows. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The three lancet windows in the east end (<a href="#fig_686">Fig. 686</a>) are the only -features with noticeable details. They are of different heights, and are -arranged in good proportion. The external jambs and arches have an outer -splay (see section, <a href="#fig_687">Fig. 687</a>), inside of which they are checked for -shutters, the windows having never been glazed. The arched heads have -pointed and splayed rear arches and wide ingoings (<a href="#fig_688">Fig. 688</a>).</p> - -<h3>THE ABBEY OF DEER, <span class="smcap">Aberdeenshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This monastery was situated in a beautiful valley on the banks of the -river Ugie, one mile and a quarter south-west of Mintlaw Railway -Station. It was founded in the year 1218 by William, the first Earl of -Buchan, who, by his marriage in 1210 to Marjory, the only child of the -last Mormaer of Buchan, became the founder in the north of the powerful -family of the Cumyns. He died in the year 1233, and was buried in the -abbey. In consequence of the accession of the Earl of Carrick to the -Scottish throne, the Cumyn family, who had opposed the Bruce, were so -completely overthrown that, says Fordun, “of a name which numbered at -one time three earls and more than thirty belted knights, there remained -no memorial in the land, save the orisons of the Monks of Deir.” Now not -one stone of the abbey church is left standing, and only a few fragments -of the conventual buildings remain. This is much to be regretted, -especially as it is known that considerable remains of the church -existed down till 1854.</p> - -<p>About the year 580 a church was founded in Deer by St. Columba and his -nephew Drostan, on ground supplied by the Mormaer of the district as a -return for the prayers of the saint in favour of his sick child. This -Columban establishment survived till the time of David <small>I.</small>, and was -superseded by the monastery founded, as above stated, by the Earl of -Buchan for a colony of monks of the Cistercian order from Kinloss. The -site of the church (<a href="#fig_689">Fig. 689</a>) is marked on the ground by an excavation -over its whole area. The structure consisted of a nave about 98 feet -long by 40 feet wide, including a north aisle, an aisleless choir or -presbytery about 25 feet long and 24 feet wide, and north and south -transepts. The total<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275">{275}</a></span> length of the church over all was 157 feet. The -nave had a north aisle, and was divided into five bays. The bases of the -pillars remained in position till 1854. The south transept was 39 feet -wide, or about 6 feet 2 inches wider than the northern one, and it had -probably a narrow eastern aisle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_689" id="fig_689"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_275.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_275.png" width="490" height="423" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 689.</span>—The Abbey of Deer. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The conventual buildings lay on the south side of the church, and are -built on ground sloping southwards towards the Ugie, so that a basement -story was required. The interior of the whole range of buildings is so -overgrown with vegetation and filled with debris that it is with the -utmost difficulty one can make his way through the ruins, and thus an -accurate examination of the place is hardly possible.</p> - -<p>The cloister was about 70 feet from north to south by about 90 feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276">{276}</a></span> -from east to west. On the south side there is a range of buildings about -125 feet long by 31 feet wide, divided into four apartments, forming the -basement story, over which the refectory was probably built. To the east -of this, lying north and south, is the fratry, measuring 35 feet in -length by about 19 feet in width inside. Projecting southwards beyond -the fratry by its full width a long range of buildings extends 80 feet -eastwards, and measures about 21 feet in width over the walls. At the -west end of this range there is an apartment about 20 feet from east to -west by about 16 feet wide, which may probably have been the kitchen. In -the north wall of this apartment there is a flue about 10 inches square. -The room enters from a passage adjoining on the east side. There appears -to have been a stair in this passage leading down to the lower -buildings, and probably up to the dormitory, but the block of ruins at -this part is so great as to render further observation impossible. Of -the buildings which occupied the east side of the cloister all traces -have now disappeared.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_690" id="fig_690"></a><a name="fig_691" id="fig_691"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_276.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_276.png" width="410" height="279" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 690.</span>—The Abbey of Deer.</p> - -<p>Doorway in Passage.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 691.</span>—The Abbey of Deer.</p> - -<p>Arches in the Ruins.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>It is highly probable that the church was completed before the monks -erected any permanent dwelling for themselves, and this may partly -account for the resignation of the tenth abbot, Dene Adam of Smalham, a -monk of Melrose, who demitted office in 1267, “choosing rather to live<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277">{277}</a></span> -in the sweet converse of his brethren of Melrose, than to Govern an -unworthy flock, under the lowly roofs of Deir.”<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a></p> - -<p>All the conventual buildings now existing are of a date subsequent to -the founding of the abbey, but under the circumstances already narrated, -and from the absence of mouldings, it is somewhat difficult to fix their -period. The openings are all round arched and simply splayed. The -doorway into the passage adjoining the kitchen has a carved keystone -(<a href="#fig_690">Fig. 690</a>), a rather unusual feature in Gothic work. The carving, which -is cut in granite, is decidedly Gothic in feeling, although in all -probability late. There exists a view of the abbey as it existed in -1770.<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> The view appears to have been taken from the south, although -it is rather difficult to fix the point of view; but, assuming that it -is from the south, it shows the north wall of the building just -described as in a much better state of preservation than it is now, and -the south wall as rather more ruinous. We understand that the north wall -was repaired sometime in this century. Judging from the view and from -the remains, the south elevation seems to have been finished with a -series of gables, having round-arched and splayed windows. Only a few -fragments of the church remain, and there can be no doubt as to their -period. They are genuine relics of the original church founded in the -thirteenth century. The principal fragment consists of two cusped arches -(<a href="#fig_691">Fig. 691</a>), probably forming the top of a sedilia. They measure in width -1 foot 10½ inches each by 2 feet 3½ inches high inside, and are recessed -about 12 inches.</p> - -<p>Three or four corbels of the characteristic first pointed kind are -preserved; one of these is shown in Fig. 692.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_692" id="fig_692"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_277.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_277.png" height="90" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 692.</span> The Abbey of Deer.<br /> Corbel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only other wrought stone belonging to the church is a very peculiar -one. It lies loose, and appears to have contained a double piscina—one -having its basin supported by a projecting corbel in the ordinary -manner, and the other with its basin and corbel turned upside down. Its -construction will be understood from the sketch (<a href="#fig_693">Fig. 693</a>). In the one -basin, which may be called the upper, the aperture proceeds from a -sprout at the back, and emerges in the centre of the lower basin. The -upper basin is 7 inches deep and the lower 3½ inches. The other -dimensions will be seen on the drawings, with sections of the respective -corbels.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278">{278}</a></span></p> - -<p>Adjoining the ruins is the Abbey Bridge, spanning the Ugie. It is a -quaint structure, and may be partly as old as the remains of the -conventual buildings; but it appears to have been repaired or partly -rebuilt, as it contains the arms of James Keith of Bruxie, with the date -1718.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_693" id="fig_693"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_278-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_278-a.png" width="349" height="239" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 693.</span>—The Abbey of Deer. Piscina.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>DEER CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Aberdeenshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_694" id="fig_694"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_278-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_278-b.png" width="339" height="155" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 694.</span>—Deer Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This church is situated in a beautiful bend of the river Ugie, in the -churchyard of the village of Deer, and is rather more than a mile -distant from the abbey. It is roofless, but the walls stand at about -their original<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279">{279}</a></span> height, and consist of a nave and chancel (<a href="#fig_694">Fig. 694</a>). -The nave is of an unusual form, being wider than it is long; but it is -probable that it was originally longer than it now is. The exterior -width is 26 feet 10 inches, and the length 24 feet 3 inches. The chancel -is 37 feet 7 inches long by 16 feet 9 inches wide externally. It is -separated from the nave by a wall containing a round splayed arch, 7 -feet 6 inches wide, and (owing to the present level of the ground) only -6 feet 6 inches high in the centre. The level of the floor was, -doubtless, originally a foot or two lower. The present entrance doorway -to the nave is modern, and is in the centre of the west end. There are -the marks of an old doorway in the north wall, which show a plain arched -construction inside, and in this a window has been inserted at a late -period. Another square-headed window in the south wall completes the -lighting of the nave. There has also been a square-headed doorway in the -south wall. There are two piscinas in the nave—one adjoining the -chancel arch on the north, and having its basin in the depth of the -recess; the other (<a href="#fig_695">Fig. 695</a>), in the south wall, had a projecting basin, -which is now sliced off. The most interesting and perfect feature of the -church is the locker or ambry in the north wall of the nave (<a href="#fig_696">Fig. 696</a>). -The top is of a drop-arched form. The arch and the jambs and sill are -checked for a door in the usual manner. Above the door, and visible -whether the door was shut or open, is a pointed arch with a kind of rude -tracery enclosing a cross pattee cut out of grey granite. The locker is -13 inches wide.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_695" id="fig_695"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_279-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_279-a.png" width="87" height="127" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 695.</span> Deer Church.<br /> Piscina in South Wall.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_696" id="fig_696"></a><a name="fig_697" id="fig_697"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_279-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_279-b.png" width="362" height="179" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 696.</span>—Deer Church.<br /> Ambry in Nave. -</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 697.</span>—Deer Church.<br /> Chancel Arch. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Sockets in the wall at the springing of the chancel arch (see <a href="#fig_697">Fig. 697</a>)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280">{280}</a></span> -indicate the former existence of a rood screen. In the south side of the -chancel there remain the indications of a stair which led up to a narrow -door, now built up, the sill of which is at about the level of the -springing of the chancel arch (<a href="#fig_698">Fig. 698</a>). Unless this led to some kind -of pulpit from which an audience in the nave could be addressed, it is -difficult to determine its use. The wall here on the nave side is so -completely covered with ivy that this point could not be made out.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_698" id="fig_698"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_280-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_280-a.png" width="139" height="100" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 698.</span>—Deer Church.<br />Chancel Arch and High Door.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The walls appear to have been in part rebuilt, especially the south wall -of the chancel near the east end, where there are visible, both outside -and inside, stones having fifteenth or sixteenth century rosettes carved -on them. In the east wall there is a finely carved heraldic stone -(<a href="#fig_699">Fig. 699</a>) with the arms effaced.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_699" id="fig_699"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_280-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_280-b.png" width="81" height="180" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 699.</span><br />Deer Church.<br /> Heraldic Stone.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is an arched recess for a monument (<a href="#fig_700">Fig. 700</a>) on the exterior of -the south side of the nave at the west end, which can hardly be seen for -the dense growth of ivy. The sculptured stones and coat of arms are -evidently insertions.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_700" id="fig_700"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_280-c.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_280-c.png" width="276" height="252" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 700.</span>—Deer Church. Recess of Monument.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Deer is the site of a very early monastery, founded by St. Columba, of -which the venerable <i>Book of Deer</i> is the only remaining memorial. It -was written in the ninth century, and contains the Gospel of St. John, -with portions of the other gospels, and notes on the margins relating<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281">{281}</a></span> -to the monastery written in Gaelic at a later period. The existing -church has no connection with this ancient monastery further than that -it probably occupies the same position. It was, doubtless, erected about -the fifteenth century.</p> - -<h3>AUCHINDOIR CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Aberdeenshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_701" id="fig_701"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_281-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_281-a.png" width="293" height="175" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 701.</span>—Auchindoir Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_702" id="fig_702"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_281-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_281-b.png" width="394" height="229" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 702.</span>—Auchindoir Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ruined church of Auchindoir is situated in a remote part of Upper -Aberdeenshire, about six miles south-west from Kennethmont Station, -between Insch and Huntly. It stands on a slight elevation near the mouth -of the Craig Burn, which joins the river Bogie a short<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282">{282}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_703" id="fig_703"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_282.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_282.png" width="407" height="450" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 703.</span>—Auchindoir Church. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">distance below. It has been pointed out by Mr. Jervise<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> that the -orientation of the church is peculiar, as it stands more north and south -than east and west; but in the following description the usual -orientation is assumed. The church is a simple oblong (<a href="#fig_701">Fig. 701</a>), -measuring 50 feet in length by 19 feet 6 inches in width internally. Mr. -Jervise thinks it has been added to at the west end, and it has at least -been altered at that point, and a belfry added on the top of the gable -(<a href="#fig_702">Fig. 702</a>). The rest of the building has also been considerably altered, -and a doorway<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283">{283}</a></span> inserted in the east end and square windows introduced to -make it suitable for Presbyterian worship.</p> - -<p>Towards the west end there are two doorways, opposite one another, in -the north and south walls. That in the south wall (<a href="#fig_703">Fig. 703</a>) is a fine -specimen of early first pointed work. The round arch is retained (as is -common in Scotland), but the details are all of first pointed design. -The section of the jamb and arch mouldings (<a href="#fig_704">Fig. 704</a>) and the dog-tooth -enrichment of the label are clear indications of that style. Mr. Jervise -doubts whether these features are genuine, and suspects that they are -late imitations of the first pointed style; but Mr. Muir has no doubt -about the doorway being of “late transition work, belonging, apparently, -to that precise period in the progress of the art when the already -softened features of the Normans were beginning to merge altogether into -the still more flexible and varied forms of the first pointed style.” -This opinion is confirmed by all the features of the doorway. The bold -foliaged caps on each side (of which the detached shafts are gone) are -undoubted proofs of the genuine nature of the work. This doorway could -never have been produced in later times.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_704" id="fig_704"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_283.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_283.png" width="173" height="141" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 704.</span>—Auchindoir Church.<br /> South Doorway: Jamb and -Arch Moulding.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The north doorway is simple, having a plain round arch with a splay on -edge, and a recess for a bolt in the ingoing.</p> - -<p>The church contains a simple piscina in the south wall, and a very -elaborate ambry, or sacrament house (<a href="#fig_705">Fig. 705</a>), in the north wall near -the east end. The decorated adjuncts of this ambry are about 6 feet in -height. The opening is moulded, and has a quasi buttress on each side, -crowned with a crocketed pinnacle in a late style of art. A pointed -roof, or flat canopy, rises over the ambry, having on the top a -representation of the crucifixion, with a skull carved at the base; over -the cross is a scroll bearing the letters <small>I N R I.</small> There are two scrolls -on the roof, carved with the inscription, <small>HIC·Ē CORP DUĒ C V M</small>, and on -the sill of the ambry, <small>M·A·S·</small>, which inscription Mr. Jervise renders -thus: “Here is the body of our Lord, with Mary, the Apostles, and -Saints.” The ambry has an inner recess on the left side.</p> - -<p>This work is evidently very late in style, but it can scarcely be so -late as Mr. Jervise supposes. He says:—“I am inclined to ascribe the -erection of the Sacrament House, if not the Kirk, of Auchindoir to the -laird and lady whose arms and initials are upon shields within it. One -of these shields, dated 1557, bears the Gordon arms and motto, <small>HOIP IN</small><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284">{284}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_705" id="fig_705"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_284.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_284.png" width="365" height="632" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 705.</span>—Auchindoir Church. Sacrament House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285">{285}</a></span></p> - -<p><small>GOD</small>; the second, initialed <small>V·G:C·C·</small>, presents the arms of Gordon and -Cheyne, impaled with the motto, <small>GRACE ME GYID</small>.”</p> - -<p>There can be no doubt that Mr. Jervise is in error as to the church -being erected in 1557; but it was probably altered at that date, as the -eastern or priests’ doorway in the south wall (which is now square -headed, and has a transome and upper light over it) bears the date 1557. -That was probably the time when the church was altered for Presbyterian -worship. The sculptured ambry was probably executed in the early part of -the sixteenth century, before the Reformation.</p> - -<p>In 1513-14 the Church of Auchindoir was erected into a prebend of King’s -College Chapel, Aberdeen. That would be a likely time for the -introduction of the sacrament house. The building continued to be -employed for divine service till 1810, when a new church was erected in -the neighbourhood. The old churchyard which surrounds the old church is -still used for interment.</p> - -<p>When this church ceased to be used for service, the roof and woodwork -were sold, and some of the panelling, including the back of the pulpit, -which is carved with shields, is preserved in a farmhouse in the -vicinity.</p> - -<h3>ST. CUTHBERT’S, <span class="smcap">Monkton</span>; <span class="smcap">AND</span> ST. NICHOLAS’, <span class="smcap">Prestwick, Ayrshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>These two ruined churches are situated within a mile of one another on -the level ground near the sea, which forms the basin of the river Ayr, -near its mouth.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_706" id="fig_706"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_285.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_285.png" width="217" height="158" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 706.</span>—St. Cuthbert’s Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Prestwick is an ancient town, which had a parish church; while Monkton -derived its name from the residence of a body of monks from Paisley. -Both St. Nicholas’ and St. Cuthbert’s were originally churches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286">{286}</a></span> of -Prestwick, and were distinguished as Prestwick de Burgo and Prestwick -Monachorum. Both these churches were bestowed on Paisley Abbey, in 1163, -by Walter, son of the Great Steward of Scotland, and endowed with -valuable lands.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_707" id="fig_707"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_286-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_286-a.png" width="395" height="247" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 707.</span>—St. Cuthbert’s Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Prestwick Church is mentioned in the Paisley Chartulary, in 1212, as a -chapel; Monkton continued as a rectory till the Reformation, and the two -parishes were united in the beginning of the seventeenth century. Till -1837 both churches were used for public worship.<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_708" id="fig_708"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_286-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_286-b.png" width="250" height="220" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 708.</span>—St. Cuthbert’s Church. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Church of St. Cuthbert (<a href="#fig_706">Fig. 706</a>), at Monkton, has<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287">{287}</a></span> originally been -a simple oblong chamber, 46 feet in length by about 20 feet in width -internally. The walls of this part of the structure are undoubtedly -ancient, but they have been considerably altered, and a north wing has -been added after the Reformation. The belfry (<a href="#fig_707">Fig. 707</a>) erected at that -period still exists on the east gable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_709" id="fig_709"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_287-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_287-a.png" width="208" height="104" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 709.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_710" id="fig_710"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_287-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_287-b.png" width="427" height="296" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 710.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only portion of the building which proves its antiquity is the -doorway in the south wall (<a href="#fig_708">Fig. 708</a>). It has a round arch, but the -mouldings are of thirteenth century forms. There has been a nook shaft -on each side with bell-shaped caps, and an inner order with a large -roll.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288">{288}</a></span> This fragment is precious as one of the few ancient features -which have escaped obliteration in this part of the country.</p> - -<p>St. Nicholas’ stands on a mound close to Prestwick Railway Station, and -is surrounded by an ancient burying-ground. The church (<a href="#fig_709">Fig. 709</a>) is a -simple oblong, 44 feet long by 20 feet wide within the walls. It is a -very plain structure, and has evidently been altered, having -square-headed windows (<a href="#fig_710">Fig. 710</a>) inserted so as to render it suitable -for Presbyterian service. The only noticeable features are the -buttresses at the east end. There are two of these, one at each side and -a small one in the centre, which are massive and present the appearance -of early work. Doubtless they and the walls are old, but have been -altered. There has been a plain belfry on the east gable, now reduced to -a portion of the base. There are three small buttresses at the west end, -but they are of a slighter character than those at the east end.</p> - -<h3>LUFFNESS MONASTERY, <span class="smcap">Haddingtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_711" id="fig_711"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_288.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_288.png" width="353" height="152" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 711.</span>—Luffness Monastery. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The monastery of the Redfriars at Luffness is believed to have been -founded by Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, in 1286. The remains of the church, -which consist for the most part of foundations, are situated in the -private grounds of Luffness House, not far from the junction of the -Peffer Burn with Aberlady Bay, and about half a mile from the village of -Aberlady. The church (<a href="#fig_711">Fig. 711</a>) has consisted of nave and choir, without -aisles, the choir being internally 49 feet and the nave 42 feet in -length, and both about 19 feet 6 inches wide. Both show the bases of -buttresses at the east and west ends, and there seems to have been a -wall between the nave and choir, which possibly sustained the rood loft. -In the north wall of the choir and near the east end (<a href="#fig_712">Fig. 712</a>) are the -remains of an arched recess, which contains a much worn effigy, supposed -to be that of the founder.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289">{289}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_712" id="fig_712"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_289.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_289.png" width="329" height="381" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 712.</span>—Luffness Monastery. Monument in Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_713" id="fig_713"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_289-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_289-b.png" width="429" height="223" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 713.</span>—Luffness Monastery. Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290">{290}</a></span></p> - -<p>A pointed doorway leading to the choir adjoins the monument (<a href="#fig_713">Fig. 713</a>), -and the altar steps are seen rising beyond it. Part of the pavement -still remains at the east end, and in the centre is a flat monumental -slab (<a href="#fig_714">Fig. 714</a>), much decayed, but on which can still be made out the -following inscription:—“(Hic jacet) honorabilis vir Kentigernus Hepburn -(dominus?) de Wauchtoun;” and the sacred monogram “<small>I.N.R.I.</small>” on the -upper part of the cross. Kentigern Hepburn was son and heir apparent of -David Hepburn of Wauchton. He received, on 5th September 1498, a charter -from his father of certain lands—viz., the lands of Quhiltinfuld in -Edinburgh, half a plougate in Cockburnspath and lands of Elstanefurd, -with superiority of lands of Towly in Fife and Elstanefurd. He also -held, from his father, a charter of the lands and barony of Luffness. He -married Margaret Lauder (see Great Seal, 1424-1513). The arms on the -shield in the centre of the cross are those of the Hepburns. The style -of the slab would indicate that of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_714" id="fig_714"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_290.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_290.png" width="190" height="378" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 714.</span>—Luffness Monastery.<br /> Monument in Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>ALTYRE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Morayshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>About four miles south of Forres, and in the middle of an extensive -forest, not far from Altyre House, stand the ruins of an ancient first -pointed church. The parish of Altyre belonged formerly to the parsonage -of Dallas, but in 1659 it was disjoined from Dallas and added to the -parish of Rufford. The ruins of the church, which stand in a dense -thicket of bushes, are in fair preservation. The building is very plain, -consisting of a simple oblong chamber (<a href="#fig_715">Fig. 715</a>) about 50 feet in length -by 15 feet in width internally. There appear to have been no buttresses -originally, but one has been added at the north-east angle (<a href="#fig_716">Fig. 716</a>), -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291">{291}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_715" id="fig_715"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_291-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_291-a.png" width="243" height="142" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 715.</span>—Altyre Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_716" id="fig_716"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_291-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_291-b.png" width="462" height="395" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 716.</span>—Altyre Church. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">a very massive prop has been built at the north-west angle, the ground -on the north being a bank sloping downwards from the church. There are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292">{292}</a></span> -two doorways opposite one another near the west end, one in the north -wall and one in the south wall. In the east wall there is a two-light -window with simple branched mullion. The side windows are plain lancets, -there being two in the north wall and three in the south wall. The west -wall is blank. The walls and gables are still standing. Although the -church may be classed as first pointed, it is evidently of the latest -period of that style.</p> - -<h3>ST. MARY’S CHAPEL, <span class="smcap">Rattray, Aberdeenshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_717" id="fig_717"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_292.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_292.png" width="319" height="173" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 717.</span>—St. Mary’s Chapel. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This chapel, standing in the centre of its churchyard, is situated at -the east end of the lonely loch of Strathbeg, not far from Rattray Head, -a place well known and feared by sailors. It measures internally 45 feet -from east to west by 18 feet 9 inches from north to south (<a href="#fig_717">Fig. 717</a>). -The gables are nearly entire, with considerable portions of the side -walls. Almost all the stone dressings within reach have, as usual, been -torn out for common purposes, so that the building is in a tottering -condition, and is greatly robbed of its interest; but enough remains to -show that it is a genuine church of the thirteenth century. It is built -of rough angular stones, with red freestone dressings. In the east wall -(<a href="#fig_718">Fig. 718</a>) there are three round-arched and widely splayed windows, the -centre one being the highest and widest, viz., 2 feet wide and, -according to the new statistical account (which appears to be reliable), -11 feet high, and the other two are each 7 feet high. The gable itself -is said to be 32 feet high in its present condition. There appear to -have been north and south doors near the west end, and no other openings -in the side walls. In the west gable there is a window 8 or 10 feet -above the ground, and from 3 to 4 feet wide. The church has thus been -entirely lighted from the east and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293">{293}</a></span> west ends. It is needless to say -that there are no remains of any of the usual internal features, the -polished stones of such having been carried off, forming too strong a -temptation to be resisted.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_718" id="fig_718"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_293.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_293.png" width="417" height="256" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 718.</span>—St. Mary’s Chapel. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The earliest notice of this chapel is between the years 1214 and 1233, -when William Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, gives certain lands for the yearly -payment of two stones of wax, afterwards given by the Earl “in free alms -for ever to the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the town of Rettre -in Buchan.”<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> Again, in 1451, the chamberlain of the crown lands in -Buchan makes a deduction of six shillings, “paid to the Chaplin of -Rattre.” And in 1460 King James <small>III.</small> confirms a charter for a yearly -payment of five pounds and the third part of a stone of wax to the -chapel of the “Beate Marie Virginis de Ratreff.”<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a></p> - -<h3>ST. MAGRIDIN’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Abdie, Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The parish of Abdie is situated in the north of Fife, about two miles -south from Newburgh. It was originally called the parish of Lindores, -but that name was appropriated by the abbey, which was also founded in -the same parish. The loch of Lindores, on the south bank of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294">{294}</a></span> the -ruins of the church of Abdie stand, still retains the ancient name. The -church was of much earlier date than the abbey, and Mr. Laing<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> -states that there can be little doubt that the church of Lindores (now -Abdie) was of Culdee origin, and was one of the earliest religious -settlements in the country. The name Lindores signifies the “church by -the water,” a peculiarly appropriate designation in this instance. “In a -writing of the thirteenth century on a fly-leaf of a volume preserved in -the Imperial Library, Paris, it is recorded that the consecration of -‘Ebedyn’ church by David de Bernhame, Bishop of St. Andrews, took place -on the 5th day of September <small>A.D.</small> 1242, a date which corresponds with the -style of its architecture.”<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_719" id="fig_719"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_294.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_294.png" width="321" height="227" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig 719.</span>—St. Magridin’s Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>From the foundation charter of the abbey of Lindores we find that the -first bequest it received was the church of Lindores, and the lands -belonging to it.</p> - -<p>The existing structure consists (<a href="#fig_719">Fig. 719</a>) of a plain oblong chamber, -which has been greatly rebuilt, but part of the walls of which may be of -the thirteenth century. The building measures internally 88 feet in -length by 17 feet 6 inches in width. The east end or chancel is the most -ancient part. It is about 30 feet in length, and has first pointed -buttresses and small lancet windows in the side walls. One of the -lancets remains in the south wall (<a href="#fig_720">Fig. 720</a>), and two in the north wall -(<a href="#fig_721">Fig. 721</a>). There is also a pointed priests’ doorway in the south side -wall. The three pointed windows in the east end seem to have been -altered. The broad<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295">{295}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_720" id="fig_720"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_295.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_295.png" width="624" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 720.</span>—St. Magridin’s Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296">{296}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">skew, with cross on the gable, and its remarkable footstone are -restorations. The nave or western portion of the church, which is of the -same width as the chancel, has been rebuilt at different times, and much -of it shows in its windows, buttresses, &c., work of a very late period, -probably the sixteenth century. There is a south porch near the west -end, with a stone bench on each side. The entrance is by an elliptic -arch, with plain splay on edge. The belfry is plain, but picturesque. A -wing or north aisle has been added at a late date. It is called the -Denmiln aisle, and was erected by Sir Robert Balfour in 1661, and bears -his arms and the date over the doorway. In the choir there is a slab -with a fine cross carved on it, and also a recumbent effigy (see -<a href="#fig_721">Fig. 721</a>), considerably worn away by the weather.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_721" id="fig_721"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_296.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_296.png" width="409" height="420" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 721.</span>—St. Magridin’s Church. Effigy in Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297">{297}</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAPEL ON “THE ISLE,”<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> <span class="smcap">Wigtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_722" id="fig_722"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_297-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_297-a.png" width="212" height="151" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 722.</span>—Chapel on “The Isle.” Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_723" id="fig_723"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_297-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_297-b.png" width="432" height="216" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 723.</span>—Chapel on “The Isle.” View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>“The Isle” is a rocky promontory, formerly an island, but now connected -with the mainland at low tide. It stands near the south end of the main -part of Wigtonshire, about two miles north from Burrow Head and three -miles south-east of Whithorn. On this isle stand the ruins of an ancient -chapel. It is roughly built, with walls 2 feet 8 inches in thickness, -and, from its pointed arches, appears to be of first or second pointed -date. The structure (<a href="#fig_722">Fig. 722</a>) measures 37 feet 6 inches in length by -22<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298">{298}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_724" id="fig_724"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_298-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_298-a.png" width="422" height="217" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 724.</span>—Chapel on “The Isle.” View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_725" id="fig_725"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_298-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_298-b.png" width="301" height="236" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 725.</span>—Chapel on “The Isle.” Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">feet in width externally, and has originally been very exactly measured -off. The doorway has been in the south wall, but it is now broken down -and the freestone dressings removed. There has been a tall pointed -window in each of the north and south walls, and a similar window, -though apparently wider, in the east end wall. The dressings have been -torn out, but the pointed sconsion arches still remain (Figs 723 and -724). There<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299">{299}</a></span> is a small square ambry in the north wall, and a similar, -but larger, one in the south wall. The exterior is quite plain, and -without buttresses or break of any kind.</p> - -<p>The simple bowl of the font has been recovered, after having served for -generations as a trough to bruise whins in for food for horses -(<a href="#fig_725">Fig. 725</a>). It is now preserved at Whithorn.</p> - -<p>Much discussion has taken place regarding this chapel, some supposing it -to be the original <i>Candida Casa</i> of St. Ninian. The style of the -structure puts that view out of the question; but it is still thought by -some—amongst others by Mr. T. S. Muir<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a>—that the isle was a much -more likely place for St. Ninian to fix his first settlement on than at -Whithorn, where he would be in the midst of a probably not very friendly -people. In that case the Chapel on “The Isle” would be the successor of -the original <i>Candida Casa</i>. But there is nothing at either place to -determine with any degree of certitude the site of the first Christian -edifice in Scotland.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL, DUNSTAFFNAGE CASTLE, <span class="smcap">Argyleshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_726" id="fig_726"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_299.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_299.png" width="446" height="295" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 726.</span>—Chapel, Dunstaffnage Castle. Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A plan and detailed drawings of this first pointed chapel are given in -connection with the description of the castle,<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> but the general view -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300">{300}</a></span> the interior (<a href="#fig_726">Fig. 726</a>) is now illustrated, in order more fully to -explain the description above referred to. The ruin is densely covered -with ivy, but the jambs of the chancel arch, enriched with rows of -dog-tooth ornament, are distinctly visible (see Section). The arch is -now built up, and the chancel is converted into a tomb-house. A section -of the window jambs and shaft between is also shown in Fig. 726. This -edifice is one of the few examples of enriched first pointed work to be -found in the Western Highlands and Islands.</p> - -<p>Another very interesting specimen of a first pointed church exists at -Skipness, Kintyre, which is also described and illustrated in <i>The -Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>.<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a></p> - -<h3>BUITTLE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Kirkcudbrightshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>A ruin, situated about three to four miles west from Dalbeattie. The -original name was Kil-Ennan, that of Buittle being comparatively modern. -A notice of the church occurs as early as 1275, when it was granted by -Devorgilla to the monks of Sweetheart; and on the 16th July 1381, Pope -Benedict <small>XIII.</small> confirms a charter by Thomas, Bishop of Galloway, -granting the Church of St. Colmanel of Butyll to the Abbey of -Sweetheart. We are informed that a new church was erected before the -Reformation. This was, doubtless, part of the present ivy-clad ruin. The -church and lands were annexed to the Crown in 1587.<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_727" id="fig_727"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_300.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_300.png" width="291" height="108" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 727.</span>—Buittle Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The building is peculiar in form (<a href="#fig_727">Fig. 727</a>), the choir being wider than -the nave—the former measuring 26 feet 6 inches, and the latter 22 feet -in width over the walls. The choir is about 30 feet and the nave 44 feet -in length internally. The walls and gables are well preserved -(<a href="#fig_728">Fig. 728</a>), but the whole building is so completely covered with ivy that any -architectural features which may exist are concealed. There is a pointed -chancel arch between the nave and choir, and the latter part of the -church is lighted with three lancet windows in the east gable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301">{301}</a></span></p> - -<p>To judge from the appearance of the building the nave and its belfry -were, doubtless, the parts erected shortly before the Reformation, and -the choir is the more ancient portion. It is probably of first pointed -date.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_728" id="fig_728"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_301.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_301.png" width="422" height="233" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 728.</span>—Buittle Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The straight lintelled doorway in the east end, under the three pointed -windows, is part of the work done in Presbyterian times.</p> - -<h3>TUNGLAND ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Kirkcudbrightshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Of this ancient and important abbey there now remains only one doorway -(<a href="#fig_729">Fig. 729</a>). The abbey stood on a level piece of ground at some height -above the rocky bed of the River Dee, about two miles from -Kirkcudbright. The situation is a fine one, and the modern manse is yet -surrounded with splendid old trees. The abbey was founded by Fergus, -first Lord of Galloway, in the twelfth century, and occupied by -Premonstratensian Monks from Cokersand Abbey, in Lancashire. The abbot -sat in the Parliament summoned at Brigham, in 1290, to settle the -succession to the Crown of Scotland. Robert <small>I.</small> and David <small>II.</small> both -enriched it with endowments.</p> - -<p>In 1503 James <small>IV.</small> appointed Damiane, an Italian, to be abbot. He was an -alchemist, and professed to be able to fly; but in endeavouring to carry -out his scheme from the walls of Stirling Castle, his wings gave way, -and he fell and broke his leg.<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a></p> - -<p>The abbey was annexed to the Crown in 1587. Symson mentions<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302">{302}</a></span> that in -1684 the steeple and part of the walls were standing. It is said that -the present church which adjoins is erected on part of the walls of the -old abbey.</p> - -<p>The part of the abbey which contains the ancient door has evidently been -refitted as a church in post-Reformation times, and has a gable with a -plain belfry.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_729" id="fig_729"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_302.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_302.png" width="129" height="189" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 729.</span>—Tungland Abbey. <br />Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_730" id="fig_730"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_302-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_302-b.png" height="452" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 730.</span>—Tungland Abbey. Details of Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The old doorway has some features (<a href="#fig_730">Fig. 730</a>) which make it doubtful -whether it belongs to the first pointed style, or is only one of the -repro<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303">{303}</a></span>ductions in imitation of that style which were common in the time -of James <small>VI.</small></p> - -<h3>COCKPEN CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_731" id="fig_731"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_303.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_303.png" width="382" height="248" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 731.</span>—Cockpen Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ruins of the ancient parish church of Cockpen stand in a burial -ground about one mile south from the modern parish church, which is -situated about a mile from Dalhousie Railway Station. The walls of the -old church are in tolerable preservation, but they have been so much -altered, probably soon after the Reformation, so as to render them -suitable for Presbyterian worship, that the original features are almost -obliterated. The structure (<a href="#fig_731">Fig. 731</a>) is a simple oblong, 65 feet 6 -inches in length by 15 feet 2 inches in width. There are some remains of -narrow lancet windows at the east end, but they have been much altered, -one of them being widened to form an outside doorway to a gallery. The -side windows have been similarly altered and new square-headed windows -inserted, so that almost all trace of the original features is lost. The -ruins are also so completely covered with a dense growth of ivy that the -details of the architecture cannot be properly investigated. Some burial -vaults have been thrown out from the side walls, probably in the -sixteenth century. From the scanty materials available it may be -inferred that the original church was a structure of the thirteenth -century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304">{304}</a></span></p> - -<h3>PENCAITLAND CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Haddingtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_732" id="fig_732"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_304.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_304.png" width="386" height="217" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 732.</span>—Pencaitland Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This structure, which is still in use as the parish church, lies in the -valley of the Tyne, about four miles south from Tranent. It consists -(<a href="#fig_732">Fig. 732</a>) of a long narrow building measuring about 83 feet in length -by about 23 feet in width over the walls, with a western tower, not -quite square in plan. On the north side of the chancel there is a chapel -of first pointed work, and adjoining it on the west a seventeenth -century aisle. Taking the chapel on the north side first as being -architecturally the most important, it measures in the inside about 22 -feet 8 inches long by about 10 feet wide. On the north side (<a href="#fig_733">Fig. 733</a>) -it is divided into two bays, and had originally shallow buttresses of 18 -inch projection, terminating with a gabled top. The buttresses have been -enlarged at a later date. Between the buttresses there were large -pointed windows, probably once filled with tracery, but which is now -destroyed. There is another wide window in the east end, which has met -with the same treatment. In the west end there is a high window of two -lights, with a pierced opening in the apex under the arch. The mouldings -round the windows consist of thin reed-like beads, separated by deep -narrow hollows. The labels round the outside terminate as shown in -<a href="#fig_734">Fig. 734</a>. Over the buttresses there is a set-off on the wall (see <a href="#fig_733">Fig. 733</a>), -and above this one deep course of masonry, carrying a corbel course of -small size, decorated with human and animals’ heads. The top course and -set-off are closed in at each end with a large skew stone, on which -there is wrought the original start of the sloping gable at a slightly -lower level<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305">{305}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_733" id="fig_733"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_305.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_305.png" width="428" height="255" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 733.</span>—Pencaitland Church. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_734" id="fig_734"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_305-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_305-b.png" height="65" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 734.</span> Pencaitland<br /> -Church.<br /> Moulding of<br /> Windows.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">than the existing gable (<a href="#fig_735">Fig. 735</a>), showing that there has been some -change made here, the existing skew puts of gables not being original. -The north wall is bent outwards considerably. It is not unlikely that -the chapel was originally vaulted in stone, and, with the view of -strengthening it, the shallow buttresses have been enlarged as -indicated. The wide opening into the church shown on the Plan was -afterwards made, and the vault, thus losing its support on that side, -would be taken down. As a confirmation of the opinion that this chapel -was vaulted we find<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> that the roof was at one time covered with -flagstones. These, owing to their weight, are generally found only on -vaulted buildings, as at Borthwick and numerous other churches. From the -appearance of the flat arch of this opening it seems to be of later work -than the chapel, and on the east side of the ingoing there are the -remains of what appear to have been the jambs of a doorway. The chapel -would thus originally be separated from the church by a solid wall with -a door of communication, and what we have called a chapel may have been -the sacristy. This separating wall, it will be observed from the Plan, -is much thicker than the buttressed north wall, and, doubtless, was so -made for the purpose of resisting the thrust of the vault.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306">{306}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_735" id="fig_735"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_306.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_306.png" width="94" height="91" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 735.</span><br /> - Pencaitland Church. <br />Skew Stone.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Although the church adjoining appears to be mainly a building of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it undoubtedly occupies the site of -an earlier church, known to have existed at Pencaitland in the twelfth -century. Possibly portions of this earlier church are incorporated in -the existing walls, and it is not unlikely from the narrowing of the -east end on the north side (see Plan) that a chancel arch may have -existed. Over the tower doorway there is the date 1631, with the -initials of the incumbent, John Oswald, who probably built the tower. -About the same time the north-west aisle was built. It contains some -details resembling those to be seen at Wyntoun House, in the immediate -neighbourhood. In the <i>Caledonia</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 527, Chalmers mentions -that Pencaitland was possessed by Everard de Pencaithlan, and that he -probably obtained the lands from William the Lion (1165-1214), as he -granted the church of his manor of Pencaithlan to Kelso, with its tithes -and other rights, in pure alms for the salvation of his lord, King -William. After 1309 it is not mentioned among the churches belonging to -Kelso. The manor was forfeited during the War of Succession, and was -granted by King Robert the Bruce to Robert de Lawder; but soon after it -appears in the hands of Sir John Maxwell, younger brother of Sir Eustace -Maxwell of Caerlaverock, who granted to Dryburgh the advowson of the -church with an annuity from his lands of Pencaitland. This was confirmed -by William (Landal), the Bishop of St. Andrews, in 1343, and by David -<small>II.</small> two years later. A view of the tower and west end of the church, -with some details, will be found in <i>The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland</i>.<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a></p> - -<h3>GOGAR CHURCH FONT, <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<p>Scarcely a vestige remains of the old Church of Gogar, but the burial -ground still survives. It is situated about five to six miles west from -Edinburgh. The church was ancient, but after the Reformation the parish -was divided amongst the three adjoining ones. The bowl of the old font -still exists in the churchyard. It is very simple in design (<a href="#fig_736">Fig. 736</a>), -and would appear from its mouldings to be of first pointed date. The -stand on which it is set is modern.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307">{307}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_736" id="fig_736"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_307.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_307.png" width="429" height="301" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 736.</span>—Gogar Church. Font, with Section.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>THE ABBEY OF INCHCOLM, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>An account of this abbey is given in <i>The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland</i>,<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> in connection with its occupation by the -English, in the time of Henry <small>VIII.</small>, as a fortification. But being an -important ecclesiastical structure, and in some respects a unique one, -it is thought desirable to give it a place in this volume, with some -additional particulars and illustrations.</p> - -<p>The Island of Inchcolm, or Æmonia, as it was originally called, is -believed to have formed the cradle of religion in the East of Scotland, -as the more famous Iona did in the West; and it is thought that the -first seeds of religion were implanted in it by St. Columba himself. In -early times the founders of Christianity loved to establish themselves -on islands, and in the Frith of Forth ecclesiastical remains are found -not only at Inchcolm, but also on Inchkeith, the Bass, the Isle of May, -and the Island of Fidra.</p> - -<p>Like Iona, the Island of Inchcolm became especially celebrated as a -place of burial, and large sums were paid for the privilege of -interment<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308">{308}</a></span> on the island. This circumstance is referred to in -<i>Macbeth</i>,<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> in connection with the defeat of “Sweno, Norway’s -King”—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Nor would we deign him burial of his men<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Till he disbursed at St. Colm’s Inch<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Ten thousand dollars to our general use.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The island appears to have been inhabited up to the twelfth century by a -Columban hermit. Fordun narrates that the abbey owes its foundation to -Alexander <small>I.</small>, who, in 1123, was driven ashore on the island by a storm, -where he and his followers were maintained for three days by the hermit -who then made Inchcolm his retreat, and who divided with them his scanty -fare of shellfish and the milk of one cow. In recognition of his safe -delivery, Alexander founded and endowed a monastery, and brought to it -Augustinian Canons from the abbey he had established at Scone. The -monastery continued to prosper, and, in 1216, received a large addition -to its possessions from Allan Mortimer, proprietor of the domain of -Aberdour, on the mainland adjoining, who purchased the right of -interment in the church by bestowing on the abbey one half of his -estate.</p> - -<p>It is from this period that the existing buildings began to be erected, -and the construction probably went on for a considerable length of time -thereafter. In 1265 Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, built the new choir at -his own expense. He was High Chamberlain in 1255-57, and, at his death -in 1272, his heart was laid, according to Father Hay, in the wall of the -new choir.</p> - -<p>Although the island position of the monastery made it usually a safe -retreat, it did not protect it from the attacks of the English fleet -during the War of Independence. In 1335 it was harried by the English, -who carried off the precious chalices and censers, crosses and -chandeliers, relics, vestments, and images. The abbey was again attacked -in 1336, and in 1384 the fleet of Richard <small>II.</small> plundered it and set it on -fire. Some repairs were, doubtless, required thereafter, and we find -that in 1402 the chapel of the Blessed Virgin, adjoining the south side -of the choir, was founded by the Prior, Richard of Aberdeen, and Thomas -Crawford, Canon of Inchcolm.</p> - -<p>In 1418 Walter Bower, the editor and continuator of the <i>Scotichronicon</i> -of Fordun, was appointed abbot, and carried out his literary work in the -abbey.</p> - -<p>As the period of the Reformation approached, the monastery seems to have -fallen off, and in 1543 Abbot Henry resigned office, and the abbey was -deserted.</p> - -<p>After the battle of Pinkie, in 1547, the Duke of Somerset occupied -Inchcolm as the best post for commanding the Frith of Forth.</p> - -<p>The lands of West Aberdour were acquired from Abbot Nicholas by James -Stewart of Ochiltree, who became Commendator of the Abbey;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309">{309}</a></span> and his -second son, James Stewart, Lord Doune, was, in 1611, created a peer, -with the title of Lord St. Colm. He married the daughter of the Regent -Murray, and the lands were united to the estate of the Earl of Moray, -who thus became proprietor of Inchcolm.</p> - -<p>The island is about half a mile in length, and lies about one mile and -a-half from the harbour of Aberdour, on the north side of the Frith of -Forth. It consists of an elevated portion at each end, with a low lying -isthmus between them, on which the abbey is built, the buildings -extending across the full breadth of the land.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the many attacks and injuries the structure has -sustained, its remote situation has preserved the monastic buildings in -a more complete state than in most of our old abbeys. The edifice, as it -now stands (<a href="#fig_737">Fig. 737</a>), consists of the usual cloister court (about 45 -feet square), having the church on the north side and the chapter house -beyond the east range. The monastery has the remarkable peculiarity of -having had the buildings surrounding the cloister constructed so as to -contain on the ground floor nothing but the cloister walk, and on the -upper floor, above the ambulatory, the refectory, dormitory, and other -domestic apartments of the canons. The cellars, stores, and other -offices have been erected in a wing to the south-east. A detached -building to the north of the church, now in ruins, was possibly the -infirmary. To the west of the monastery lay the garden, which is -enclosed with a wall. The well, which is sunk on the south of the -garden, is built round with ashlar, is 50 feet deep, and contains a -supply of good fresh water. A strong retaining wall runs along the north -side of the buildings next the sea, and encloses the monastery on that -side.</p> - -<p>A very interesting relic of the original eremitical occupation of the -island still survives at the north-west angle of the garden. This is a -small cell covered with a pointed vault, the true importance of which -was first pointed out by the late Sir James Y. Simpson,<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> who drew -attention to it as the cell of the Columban recluse who occupied -Inchcolm at or before the unexpected visit of Alexander <small>I.</small> It consists -(<a href="#fig_738">Fig. 738</a>) of an irregular stone building, measuring internally 15 feet -7 inches in length on the north side and 17 feet on the south side, by a -width of 6 feet at the east end and 5 feet at the west end. The height -from the floor to the spring of the arch is 4 feet 8 inches, and to the -crown of the arch 8 feet. The cell is covered with a pointed barrel -vault, the arch of which is composed of radiating stones, and is covered -with stone flags, which form a curved roof on the exterior. The form of -the arch indicates that the vault is not of the most ancient type of -Celtic building, in which the arch consisted not of radiating, but of -overlapping, stones pushed out horizontally over each other till they -met with a flat stone in the centre.<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> The doorway, however, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310">{310}</a></span> -is at the south-west angle, presents on the interior some appearance of -the latter form of construction (<a href="#fig_739">Fig. 739</a>),<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> while on the exterior -(<a href="#fig_740">Fig. 740</a>) it is formed with a round radiating arch. There is one small -square-headed window in the east end, 13 inches in width and 24 inches -in height, the jambs of which are in single stones, without moulding or -chamfer. In the south wall there is a rude ambry, 12 inches wide and 17 -inches deep.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_737" id="fig_737"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_310.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_310.png" width="431" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 737.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Plan of Ground Floor.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This cell has, doubtless, been often repaired (indeed, it requires some -repair now), and it is possible that the vault and stone roof<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311">{311}</a></span> may not -be the original ones; but the walls are certainly ancient, and the -structure is very interesting from its being one of the very few relics -of the Columban church which survive in the eastern part of Scotland.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_738" id="fig_738"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_311-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_311-a.png" width="437" height="234" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 738.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. St. Colm’s Cell: Plan -and Section.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_739" id="fig_739"></a><a name="fig_740" id="fig_740"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_311-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_311-b.png" width="390" height="152" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 739.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm.</p> - -<p>Horizontal Arch of the Door, as seen from within<br /> the Cell.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 740.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm.</p> - -<p>Exterior Arch of the Doorway.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>As above pointed out, the abbey buildings are of different periods, and -have evidently been subjected to several alterations at different times. -The church appears to be the oldest part of the edifice. It has -originally consisted (see <a href="#fig_737">Fig. 737</a>) of a nave, internally 35 feet in -length by 20 feet in width; a central tower, 24 feet long by 22 feet -wide<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312">{312}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_741" id="fig_741"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_312.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_312.png" width="679" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 741.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313">{313}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_742" id="fig_742"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_313.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_313.png" width="619" height="362" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 742.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314">{314}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_743" id="fig_743"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_314.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_314.png" width="433" height="655" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 743.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. North-East Angle of -Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315">{315}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">externally; and a choir to the east of the tower, of which a fragment -survives, but which was subsequently superseded by a new choir. The -church was lofty as compared with its width, as is apparent from the -high pointed arches (<a href="#fig_741">Figs. 741</a> and <a href="#fig_742">742</a>) in the east and west walls of -the tower. It is not now discoverable how the nave and choir were -roofed, but from the absence of buttresses, and the built water tables -in the tower with steep slope, the roof was most probably of timber. -Over the arch leading from the tower to the choir there is a doorway -(see <a href="#fig_741">Fig. 741</a>), which gave access to a chamber in the roof. The church -was entered from the cloister by a high pointed doorway (<a href="#fig_743">Fig. 743</a>) in -the south wall of the tower. Adjoining this, in the south wall, a wheel -stair led to the upper stories of the tower. The nave has been much -altered, but still retains along the north side an early trigonal string -course. The south doorway and other details of the tower also indicate a -date early in the thirteenth century (see the details of the doorway in -<a href="#fig_750">Fig. 750</a>). The tower (see <a href="#fig_741">Figs. 741</a> and <a href="#fig_742">742</a>) rises to two stories above -the church roof, and contains windows, each having two smaller arches -enclosed within a round arch, and having the spandrils pierced with -simple quatrefoil openings. The parapet is supported by first pointed -corbels (<a href="#fig_744">Fig. 744</a>). In each of the north and south walls of the tower -there was originally, at the level of the church, a single pointed -lancet window, the upper part of which has in each case been preserved, -although greatly altered at a later date. The upper part of the south -window is visible in Fig. 743; and a similar portion of the north window -is preserved over the door to the transept. The tower had simple -buttresses at the angles, one of which is still preserved on the south -side (see <a href="#fig_743">Fig. 743</a>), where it has been incorporated with the later -cloisteral structures, while the other buttresses have been altered. A -fragment of the original choir also still survives in a portion of the -south wall, which has been incorporated with the later building of the -dormitory to the south. This fragment still retains, though built up, -the plain round arch of a small window, and its large, round sconsion -arch—the former now looking into the dormitory (<a href="#fig_745">Fig. 745</a>), and the -latter being visible in the interior of the choir (see <a href="#fig_741">Fig. 741</a>). This -window is, doubtless, of the period of the tower and nave. It has formed -part of the exterior south wall of the choir, thus showing that the -space opposite it was open, and that the dormitory, which is on the -first floor, and blocks it up, has been added at a later period.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_744" id="fig_744"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_315.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_315.png" width="111" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 744.</span> The Abbey of Inchcolm. <br />Corbels of Parapet of -Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>What the original form of the cloister buildings may have been it is now -difficult to determine. As has been pointed out above, their arrangement -is very unusual, the cloister walk occupying the whole of the ground -floor, and the domestic buildings being on the first floor. This -arrange<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316">{316}</a></span>ment is quite contrary to that generally adopted, the usual plan -being to have a one-story cloister walk round the court, giving access -on the ground floor to the sacristy, chapter house, &c., in the east -range, to the refectory in the south range, and to the cellars, &c., in -the west range. At Inchcolm the ambulatory, or cloister walk—about 15 -feet wide—occupies the whole of the ground floor round the east, south, -and west sides of the square, while the church stands on the north side. -This arrangement would be somewhat awkward as regards the principal -entrance to the church through the tower, which would be left in the -open court without any covered way leading to it. An attempt has been -made at a late date to obviate this drawback by continuing a one-story -cloister walk round the north side of the court (see <a href="#fig_737">Fig. 737</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_745" id="fig_745"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_316.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_316.png" width="432" height="364" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 745.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Plan of First Floor.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ambulatory is lighted by small round-headed windows towards the -court (see <a href="#fig_743">Fig. 743</a>), having wide square ingoings with stone seats -(<a href="#fig_746">Fig. 746</a>); and the sill of the recess is raised about 12 inches above the -level of the cloister walk. Entering from the east walk is the chapter -house,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317">{317}</a></span> an octagonal building, 24 feet in diameter, of a somewhat later -date than the nave and tower.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_746" id="fig_746"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_317.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_317.png" width="437" height="464" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 746.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Cloister Walk, East -Range, looking North.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At the south-west angle of the cloister court was the staircase which -led to the upper floor (see Plans). The latter (see <a href="#fig_745">Fig. 745</a>) has been -very greatly altered, and has been divided by cross walls and -partitions, so as to form a dwelling-house. A square tower has also at a -late period been added on the exterior next the south-west angle -(<a href="#fig_747">Fig. 747</a>). It would appear, however, that formerly the apartments, although -situated on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318">{318}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_747" id="fig_747"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_318.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_318.png" width="638" height="408" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 747.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319">{319}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">first floor, were arranged in the usual manner. The dormitory occupied -the east side, and had direct communication with the choir. The -refectory was in the south range, and the pulpit from which one of the -monks read during meals is yet preserved, with a few steps in the -thickness of the wall leading up to it (see <a href="#fig_745">Fig. 745</a>). The pulpit is -also seen projecting on the exterior in Fig. 747. The west side was -probably occupied by the lay brethren. A large fireplace, corbelled out -on the exterior, was built in the east wall of the latter department, as -shown in Fig. 754. There was an exterior door to the garden from the -cloister walk on this side.</p> - -<p>The nave, tower, and original choir were, without doubt, the earliest -parts of the edifice. The two-story cloisters did not at first exist, as -is apparent from the exterior window of the south wall of the choir, -above referred to. Probably there was then an ordinary cloister walk -running south from the principal doorway of the church, from which a -one-story building would enter on the east, according to the usual plan, -containing sacristy, chapter house, &c. Remains of a stone seat, which -exist along the east wall of the ambulatory, may indicate the original -position of the chapter house; and there are distinct evidences of -alterations in the east wall, to the south of the existing chapter -house. At first the refectory would probably be on the ground floor of -the south range, and the dormitory may have been on the first floor over -it. The above would be the arrangement of the monastery when built about -the beginning of the thirteenth century, soon after it received the gift -of Wester Aberdour from Allan Mortimer.</p> - -<p>Less than a century later a complete remodelling of the edifice took -place. The ground floor was converted into the ambulatory and heightened -into two stories, and the new chapter house was erected to the east, -with a doorway from the new cloister walk. At the same time, the then -existing accommodation having been found too small, the old church was -abandoned as such, and the tower and nave were converted into the -abbot’s house, a new church being erected to the eastward. The evidences -of the conversion of the church into the abbot’s house are quite -distinctly apparent. The large arches in the east and west walls of the -tower (see <a href="#fig_741">Fig. 741</a>) were built up with pointed arches introduced in the -inserted building, and the height of the nave and tower divided into two -stories by the insertion of a round barrel vault carrying a floor. An -extra thickness of 15 inches was added to the nave walls, so as to carry -the inserted vault (see <a href="#fig_737">Fig. 737</a>). A wing was also added to the tower in -the position of a north transept, in order to provide another room on -the first floor level, the north window of the tower being converted -into a door. The south window was widened and furnished with a stone -seat; but, as above mentioned, the arched head of both these windows is -preserved. The north room is provided with a fireplace and garde-robe. -The ragglet for the roof of the north addition is not built like those -on the east and west sides of the tower, but is cut into the tower wall, -thus showing it to be an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320">{320}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_748" id="fig_748"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_320.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_320.png" width="445" height="488" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 748.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Chapter House, looking -East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">afterthought. The upper stories of the tower were remodelled, that over -the first floor having a pointed barrel vault inserted, and the story -over being made into a dovecot, with built nest recesses all round. A -wider wheel stair was added at the south-east angle of the tower, to -give access to the abbot’s house. The ground floor of nave and tower -under the new arch became cellars; and a round aperture, 3 feet 8 inches -in diameter, is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_321" id="page_321">{321}</a></span> provided in the floor of the tower for access from the -cellar to the first floor. The upper floor of the nave now became the -hall of the abbot’s house, having a large fireplace with overhanging -hood built in the west wall, of which the remains still exist. Windows -were also cut in the north wall to light the hall. The old door to the -church was built up, and a new door provided from the cloister walk into -the new church.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_749" id="fig_749"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_321.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_321.png" width="304" height="243" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 749.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Details of Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is difficult to determine when these alterations took place, and -possibly they did not all happen at one time. We are informed that a new -choir was erected by Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, towards the end of the -thirteenth century. It seems not unlikely that the remodelling may have -taken place about that time, and it is well known that almost no -building was carried on in Scotland from that period till the fifteenth -century. Besides, the frequent disturbances caused to the abbey by the -English fleet during the fourteenth century rendered building operations -at that time impossible. The church, however, seems to have been spared, -as it is on record that the lady chapel to the south of the choir was -added to it in the beginning of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>The general appearance of the cloister ambulatory (see <a href="#fig_746">Fig. 746</a>) would -at first sight lead one to suppose it to be of an old date. The small -round-headed windows without caps and with chamfers on edge (see -<a href="#fig_743">Fig. 743</a>), their wide recesses, with stone seats, and the round vault of the -ambulatory, have an archaic look; but on close inspection, it will be -noticed that the west wall is built against and partly bonded into the -original south-east<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322">{322}</a></span> buttress of the tower (see <a href="#fig_743">Fig. 743</a>), thus showing -that this wall is more recent than the tower. This fact also confirms -the view given above that the space opposite the south wall of the choir -(where the old window is) was open, and that at least the upper floor, -where the dormitory now is, was a later addition.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_750" id="fig_750"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_322.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_322.png" width="319" height="357" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 750.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Details of Chapter -House, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The chapter house (<a href="#fig_748">Fig. 748</a>) seems also to have been erected towards the -end of the thirteenth century. It is in the first pointed style, as the -mouldings of the caps, bases, window jambs, &c. (<a href="#fig_749">Fig. 749</a>) show. It is -one of the very few octagonal chapter houses in Scotland, that of Elgin -Cathedral being the only other with which we are acquainted. The octagon -is regular and the ribs of the vault, which spring from a round shaft 4½ -inches in diameter in each angle, meet in a carved boss in the centre, -having a circular aperture from which a light might be suspended. The -bases of the angle shafts are of first pointed character, and rest on -the stone bench. The ribs of the vault have a hollow in the centre (see<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323">{323}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_751" id="fig_751"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_323.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_323.png" width="419" height="573" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 751.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Interior of Chapter -House, from North-East Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324">{324}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_752" id="fig_752"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_324.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_324.png" width="380" height="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 752.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Doorway of Chapter -House: Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><a href="#fig_749">Fig. 749</a>), like some of those in Glasgow Cathedral. The building is -lighted by pointed and moulded windows (see <a href="#fig_748">Fig. 748</a>) on three sides,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325">{325}</a></span> -and one window on the north-east side, which is smaller than the others, -and has a plain trefoiled arch head in the interior. The window jambs -have no caps. A small circular window occurs near the top of the arch of -the south-west side of the octagon (<a href="#fig_751">Fig. 751</a>). The doorway enters -through the wall of the east ambulatory. It has jambs containing free -shafts and first pointed mouldings (<a href="#fig_752">Fig. 752</a>). The caps of the shafts -are first pointed in style, but they have no bases (see <a href="#fig_749">Fig. 749</a>). The -jamb mouldings terminate in a rather unusual way on a broad splay. The -arch is semicircular, or nearly so. A stone bench runs round the -interior of the chapter house, and is raised one step above the floor. -In the east end are three arched recesses (see <a href="#fig_748">Fig. 748</a>) with good jamb -mouldings, finishing on a splay at bottom, but without caps or bases -(see <a href="#fig_749">Fig. 749</a>). These were, doubtless, the seats of the abbot, prior, -and sub-prior. They are raised two steps higher than the other seats. -Externally, the chapter house is provided with buttresses on the angles -(<a href="#fig_753">Fig. 753</a>), terminated with gablets, except on the north side, where a -continuous water table, with numerous set-offs, is provided, probably -because this side was concealed by the choir, and there was no room for -buttresses.</p> - -<p>Over the east wing of the ambulatory is the dormitory, which is covered -with a lofty pointed barrel vault, and is lighted by small, -square-headed windows (see <a href="#fig_743">Fig. 743</a>) looking into the cloister court. -There is also a squinch in the east side, from which the high altar -could probably be seen. From the east side of the dormitory a steep -stair leads to a building which has been erected at a late date over the -chapter house. Tradition states that Walter Bower had this upper story -built as a quiet retreat, where he might carry on his literary labours -undisturbed. It is a rude erection (see <a href="#fig_753">Fig. 753</a>), and greatly damages -the external appearance of the chapter house. It has eight sides, and is -clumsily roofed with a pointed barrel vault. There is a large chimney in -the north side, a large double window in the south side, and a small -window in the south-east side.</p> - -<p>The new choir or church erected to the east of the tower has been a -structure of considerable size, having been probably about 100 feet in -length by about 20 feet in internal width; but this building has now -been almost entirely removed, the stones having been used, as we are -informed, for the erection of a mansion on the mainland opposite. Only -the fragment at the south-west angle, which is incorporated with the -dormitory, and in which the ancient window already mentioned exists, now -survives. At the east end of the south wall one moulded jamb of the -sedilia can be traced (see <a href="#fig_750">Fig. 750</a>), from which it is apparent that the -choir must have extended some feet further eastwards.</p> - -<p>Near the sedilia is the entrance to the lady chapel, a structure about -28 feet long by 22 feet wide internally. It is placed at right angles to -the choir, and has been covered with a barrel vault, a portion of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326">{326}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_753" id="fig_753"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_326.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_326.png" width="618" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 753.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Exterior of South and -South-East Sides of Chapter House, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327">{327}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_754" id="fig_754"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_327.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_327.png" width="573" height="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 754.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. West Side of -Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328">{328}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">still overhangs on the west side (see <a href="#fig_741">Fig. 741</a>). In the east wall is a -destroyed piscina, which no doubt adjoined the altar. The entrance -archway has had on the jambs a half-round shaft and two splays on each -side (see <a href="#fig_750">Fig. 750</a>). A few feet of it remain, together with the base -(see <a href="#fig_750">Fig. 750</a>), which is of late design, and might correspond with the -date of Richard of Aberdeen, by whom the lady chapel is said to have -been built.</p> - -<p>It has been mentioned that the cloister walk was continued across the -north side of the square by a one-story structure. This is now -demolished; but, from the foundations which remain (see <a href="#fig_737">Fig. 737</a>), it -has evidently consisted of a thin parapet wall, strengthened with five -buttresses. The passage was about 11 feet wide, and had a wide arch in -the solid wall at each end opening into it (<a href="#fig_754">Fig. 754</a>). The roof was -probably entirely of wood, and there is a ragglet cut in the stone work -at each end, which shows that the slope of the roof was flat. These -ragglets are rudely cut into the masonry, and that at the west end -passes across the corbel of a projecting chimney. This passage would -thus appear to have been a late addition.</p> - -<p>The cellars, stores, &c., which are frequently in the west range of the -cloister buildings, have in this instance been erected in a wing to the -south-east. This wing (<a href="#fig_755">Fig. 755</a>) is two stories in height. On the -basement floor (see <a href="#fig_737">Fig. 737</a>) it contains towards the east end a vaulted -cellar, about 50 feet in length by 13 feet in width, lighted by loops in -the south wall. At the east end a large oven is built out towards the -north side, and had a room over it. On the upper floor (see <a href="#fig_745">Fig. 745</a>) -there has been a series of five or six offices, two containing large -fireplaces, and one an oven in the angle. At the west end (see <a href="#fig_747">Fig. 747</a>) -the building has been carried up a story higher, and had a wheel stair -in the re-entering angle. An entrance passage to the interior of the -monastery passed through two archways under the north-west portion, and -led to the entrance tower near the south-west corner of the cloister.</p> - -<p>The south or exterior wall of the above range of offices has been -strengthened with buttresses, but, being close to the sea, the south -wall has been considerably damaged, and only the basement now survives.</p> - -<p>As above mentioned, the south-west tower of the cloister (see <a href="#fig_747">Fig. 747</a>) -appears to be an addition of probably the fifteenth or sixteenth -century, when, indeed, the most of the upper floor of the south and west -walls would appear to have been erected. The corbels at the parapet of -the tower have the character of those of the castles of the period. A -window in the south-west gable (see <a href="#fig_747">Fig. 747</a>) is round headed, and has a -hood moulding with carved terminals, which look like sixteenth century -work. The pulpit is projected on two buttresses, the space between which -forms a recess for a seat on the ground floor. The projection for the -pulpit has the appearance of being an addition. The large, square-headed -upper<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329">{329}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_755" id="fig_755"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_329.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_329.png" width="622" height="388" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 755.</span>—The Abbey of Inchcolm. General View, from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330">{330}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">windows in the south wall have a moulding on the jambs, and appear to be -of late date.</p> - -<p>A good view of the whole monastery is obtained from the eastern eminence -of the island (see <a href="#fig_755">Fig. 755</a>). On the summit of this height there is a -flat piece of ground, which has been made available as a fortress, and -is enclosed with an embrasured wall, one part being of extra strength -and height, and, doubtless, formed the citadel. These fortifications -were erected about a century ago, during the war with France.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_330.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_330.png" width="308" height="401" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Holyrood Abbey.</p> - -<p>Doorway in Interior of South-West Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_331" id="page_331">{331}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="MIDDLE_POINTED_OR_DECORATED_PERIOD" id="MIDDLE_POINTED_OR_DECORATED_PERIOD"></a>MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED PERIOD.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Attention</span> has been specially directed in the Introduction<a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> to the -fact that while, during the Norman and first pointed periods, a strong -resemblance is observable between the architecture of England and -Scotland, after the first pointed period there is a break in the -continuity of the architecture of the two countries. Towards the end of -the thirteenth century, owing to the political events which then took -place, architecture in Scotland came to a standstill, and was not -generally resumed till the end of the fourteenth or the beginning of the -fifteenth century, when the country began to recover from the disastrous -effects of the long struggle with England. Various restorations had been -encouraged by royal grants during the fourteenth century, but some of -the edifices so aided were only reconstructed to be again demolished by -raids from the South.</p> - -<p>In consequence of the unfortunate condition of the country, there is -thus a wide gap in the continuity of the architecture of Scotland during -the fourteenth century. When the country revived, and building again -began in the fifteenth century, attention was chiefly devoted to the -restoration of the churches throughout the country, which had nearly all -suffered severely during the constant disturbance of the previous -hundred years. Few new works were undertaken, all the energy and -resources available being required for the rebuilding and completion of -some of the more venerated and cherished cathedrals and monasteries.</p> - -<p>The nave of Glasgow Cathedral appears to have been completed in the -early part of the fourteenth century, and the west end of St. Andrews -Cathedral was also to some extent repaired and rebuilt about that time. -Elgin Cathedral was in a large measure rebuilt after the great -destruction by the “Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390, and the Northern -Cathedral of Ross, at Fortrose, was enlarged about the same period.</p> - -<p>Of the ancient monasteries, those in the Border lands were much -destroyed. Melrose Abbey now retains not a single portion of the -original church. It had been completely demolished in the first part of -the fourteenth century, but was partly rebuilt, through the liberality -of Robert <small>I.</small>, after the middle of that century; only to be again -destroyed by Richard <small>II.</small> during his raid in 1385. To that savage raid -was due the destruction of most of the sacred edifices of the south-east -of Scotland. Richard’s troops penetrated as far as Edinburgh, when the -town and church of St. Giles were consumed; and, in their retreat, the -invaders set<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332">{332}</a></span> fire to the abbeys of Newbattle, Dryburgh, and Melrose. -Paisley Abbey, in Renfrewshire, and Crosraguel and Kilwinning Abbeys, in -Ayrshire, were also greatly injured during the contest with England. -Jedburgh was likewise much damaged in the Border warfare, and Holyrood -and Arbroath Abbeys show signs of having required restorations in the -fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>When all the adverse circumstances of the country during the fourteenth -century are considered, it is not astonishing to find that examples of -the decorated style which prevailed in England at that time are rare in -Scotland. The representatives of that style are not only scanty in -number, they are also late in date. When building in Scotland revived, -the decorated style had been superseded in England by the perpendicular; -but the two countries being no longer in unison, the former style did -not reach Scotland till it had passed away in England. It was, however, -ultimately adopted in the northern part of the island, and the -architecture of Scotland, during the early part of the fifteenth -century, was carried out in a style which approaches nearer to the -decorated than any other style.</p> - -<p>This style, as we shall see, passes gradually into a later and somewhat -debased style, which, while it exhibits many features borrowed both from -France and England, yet possesses some interesting peculiarities which -render it a distinctly Scottish style, and will be treated of as the -third or late pointed style of Scotland.</p> - -<p>The decorated structures of Scotland, though somewhat belated and -inferior in size, are yet in many respects not unworthy in point of -design to take their place beside those of the later part of that period -in the sister country.</p> - -<p>The decorated or middle pointed period in Scotland extends till about -1460. Up to that time the architecture is comparatively pure in style, -and is chiefly based on the decorated work of England; but after that -date it degenerates and becomes of a debased and mixed character, and -contains indications of late importations from abroad.</p> - -<p>The first building which illustrates the Scottish decorated period is -the Abbey of Sweetheart in Dumfriesshire. This edifice was probably -begun about the time when hostilities broke out between England and -Scotland, and is intimately associated with the name of Baliol. What -length the works may have gone when stopped by the war cannot now be -ascertained, but the original design in the early decorated style has to -all appearance been carried out when building was resumed. The large -traceried windows and the details of the nave arcade and clerestory all -point to the decorated period. Possibly, owing to the English connection -of the Baliols, the design may have been brought from the South in the -latter part of the thirteenth century, and carried out with -modifications at a later time.</p> - -<p>Amongst the principal structures of the Scottish decorated period,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333">{333}</a></span> -Melrose Abbey holds a prominent place. This building, which had been -partly restored through Bruce’s influence, was destroyed by Edward <small>II.</small> -in 1322. The restoration was again proceeded with, and the structure was -again partly demolished by Richard <small>II.</small> in 1385. The works had to be once -more restored, and the structure was not completed till the beginning of -the sixteenth century.</p> - -<p>A considerable mixture of styles, as would in the circumstances be -expected, is therefore found in the different parts of Melrose Abbey; -but there can be little doubt, from the nature of the work, that some -parts of the building belong to the Scottish decorated period, while -other parts have a stronger leaning to the perpendicular style than any -other Scottish church. A comparison of the details of this structure -with those of York Minster, to which they bear a close resemblance, is -convincing evidence of the decorated character of much of the work at -Melrose. Whether we look at the beautiful windows and tracery, or at the -buttresses, with their simple, but elegant, outlines and panelled -surfaces; or at the elaborate and beautiful niches which adorn them, -with their fine tabernacle work and spirited sculptures and figures; or -at the pinnacles, with their carved crockets and foliaged finials, the -style of the whole of the details will be found to correspond very -completely in the decorated portions of these two buildings at York and -Melrose. Other portions of the work have likewise considerable -similarity to the later perpendicular work at York.</p> - -<p>The details which connect the other structures of this period with the -decorated style will be more particularly referred to in the -descriptions of the buildings. A general statement of the characteristic -features and details of the style has already been given.<a name="FNanchor_127_127" id="FNanchor_127_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a></p> - -<p>Special attention should, however, be drawn to one feature of Scottish -architecture which became very prominent in, and characteristic of, the -later phase of its development—viz., the pointed barrel vaulting -carrying a stone roof, which covered almost all the churches of the -third period.</p> - -<p>This we find introduced for the first time during the Scottish decorated -period at Lincluden College, a building which was erected early in the -fifteenth century, and is a very fine example of decorated work. The -roof was designed as a double one, the lower roof over the choir being -groined and vaulted in the usual manner; while above this vault there -was a pointed barrel vault, with strengthening ribs at intervals, on -which rested a roof composed of dressed overlapping stones. Beneath the -slope of the upper vault a small room was introduced between the two -vaults. At the parish church of Bothwell, also erected by the same Earl -of Douglas about the year 1400, a pointed barrel vault supporting a -stone roof is employed, but there is no inner groined vault.</p> - -<p>These two structures are early examples of a mode of construction<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334">{334}</a></span> which -specially distinguishes the churches of the late pointed architecture of -Scotland—viz., the almost universal use of the pointed barrel vault -supporting a stone roof.</p> - -<p>The above two edifices further illustrate another circumstance in -connection with the churches of the fifteenth and subsequent century. We -have seen that during the fourteenth century, and in the early part of -the fifteenth century, attention was chiefly directed to the restoration -and completion of the large cathedrals and abbeys begun in the twelfth -and thirteenth centuries. After the latter date large edifices of a -similar description ceased to be undertaken. The religious enthusiasm of -the people which gave birth to these splendid structures seems to have -exhausted itself, and pious efforts were now chiefly confined to the -liberality of individuals who endeavoured to raise monuments to -commemorate themselves by the erection of small collegiate and other -churches, or by founding altarages and chantries in the large edifices -already in existence.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, the decorated style in Scotland is of a belated -character, and is not generally so pure as that of the corresponding -period in England. It will, however, be recognised that the examples -given are sufficient to justify the division of the styles herein -proposed. It will also be observed that the examples of the decorated -style form a striking contrast, both to the preceding edifices of the -first pointed period and to the buildings of the later or third pointed -style, by which they were succeeded.</p> - -<h3>NEW ABBEY, <small>OR</small> SWEETHEART ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Kirkcudbrightshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The remains of this beautiful edifice are situated in a quiet -sequestered vale near the base of the hill of Criffel, about seven miles -south from Dumfries. The abbey stood on level ground near the Pow Burn, -a stream which flows into the estuary of the Nith.</p> - -<p>The ruins, though much dilapidated, are extensive, and belong to a fine -period of Scottish Gothic, of which comparatively few examples survive. -The conventual buildings have been almost entirely demolished and -carried off as building materials, only a small portion of the chapter -house and some foundations of walls still remaining. The church, -however, is complete in all its divisions, although the roof is gone and -the walls are much damaged. It comprises (<a href="#fig_756">Fig. 756</a>) a choir without -aisles, a nave with two side aisles, north and south transepts (with -eastern chapels opening off them), and a square tower over the crossing. -A level field, extending to about twenty acres, called the Precinct, -surrounds the abbey, and is still partly enclosed with a strong wall -built with large blocks of granite.</p> - -<p>The monastery derives its name of New Abbey from having been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335">{335}</a></span> founded a -considerable time after Dundrennan Abbey,<a name="FNanchor_128_128" id="FNanchor_128_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> in the same county, which -was regarded as the Old Abbey.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_756" id="fig_756"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_335.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_335.png" width="481" height="437" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 756.</span>—New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Sweetheart Abbey was inhabited by Cistercian monks, and dedicated to the -Virgin. The founder was Devorgilla, daughter of Allan, Lord of Galloway, -and mother of King John Baliol. Her husband was John Baliol of Castle -Barnard, in Yorkshire. When he died, in 1269, his wife had his heart -embalmed and placed in an ivory coffin, which she carried about with -her, and, finally, at her death in 1289, at the age of 76, it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336">{336}</a></span> -buried with her in a grave in front of the high altar of the -abbey—hence the touching name of Sweetheart Abbey. The institution was -richly endowed by Devorgilla, who had abundant means. She was the -foundress of Balliol College, Oxford; and by her the old bridge over the -Nith at Dumfries was erected, portions of which still survive.</p> - -<p>The date of the foundation of the abbey is 1275. The names of many of -the abbots are preserved, but they do not seem to have been specially -distinguished, except the last, Gilbert Brown, who maintained the -doctrines of Romanism in a written controversy with the well-known -reformer, John Welsh, of Ayr. The abbot was afterwards exiled, and died -at Paris in 1612.</p> - -<p>In the sixteenth century the monks found it necessary to place -themselves under the protection of a powerful layman. They therefore -adopted the plan then common, and, in 1544-48, feued the Barony of -Lochpatrick and other property to Lord Maxwell, and made him heritable -bailie of the whole of their lands.</p> - -<p>The property became vested in the Crown by the Annexation Act of 1587, -and, in 1624, it was granted to Sir R. Spottiswood. Since that time it -has passed through the hands of several proprietors. At the Reformation -the records of the monastery were lost, having been either destroyed or -carried abroad by the monks.<a name="FNanchor_129_129" id="FNanchor_129_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a></p> - -<p>During last century the buildings suffered great dilapidation, but -towards the close of the century, by the exertions of the parish -minister and some of the gentry of the neighbourhood, the structure was -saved from further demolition, and put in a proper state of repair.<a name="FNanchor_130_130" id="FNanchor_130_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> -Since that time it has been still further repaired, and is now in good -preservation.</p> - -<p>Few of our ancient churches are so complete as regards all the divisions -of the plan. The nave retains its central compartment, 118 feet in -length by 33 feet in width, divided into six bays, and is separated from -the side aisles—which are 17 feet in breadth—by two arcades of six -arches each. The outer wall of the north aisle is almost entirely -demolished, but this, fortunately, rather adds to the picturesque effect -of the ruin, whether viewed from the interior or the exterior. In the -former case, the distant glimpses of the country as seen through the -arches, and, in the latter case, the beautiful view obtained of the -interior of the church as seen from the outside (<a href="#fig_757">Fig. 757</a>), lend an -unusual charm to the edifice. The side aisles have evidently been -vaulted, from the remains of the vaults still visible. It should be -observed that the main arches are slightly depressed, their centres -being below the level of the caps. The western doorway is plain and -small, and seems, from the corbels above for the support of a roof, to -have had some kind of porch in front of it. The doorway was originally -surmounted by a large window filled with tracery; but at a later time -the tracery seems to have given way, and has been partly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337">{337}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_757" id="fig_757"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_337.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_337.png" width="595" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 757.</span>—New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. View from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338">{338}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_758" id="fig_758"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_338.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_338.png" width="322" height="483" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 758.</span>—New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Bay of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">replaced by solid masonry, which sustains a wheel of tracery in the arch -(possibly part of the original window), while the lower part is divided -into three smaller windows, with little buttresses between, each light -having been filled with separate tracery. The nave is also provided with -the usual door adjoining the transept and leading into the cloisters. -There is no triforium, the wall over the nave arcades (<a href="#fig_758">Fig. 758</a>) being -blank till the clerestory is reached. The latter consists in the -interior of a series<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339">{339}</a></span> of three arches in each bay, and on the exterior -(see <a href="#fig_757">Fig. 757</a>) chiefly of semicircular windows filled with five pointed -openings in each. The sill of the inner arches is kept considerably -below the level of that of the outer windows, so as to diminish the -blank space between the clerestory and the nave arcade. The main piers -consist of a series of rounds, with larger filleted shafts at the angles -(<a href="#fig_759">Fig. 759</a>), and the caps and arch mouldings (see <a href="#fig_758">Fig. 758</a>) indicate -first pointed work.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_759" id="fig_759"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_339.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_339.png" width="56" height="58" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig.</span> 759.</p> - -<p>New Abbey, or<br /> Sweetheart Abbey.<br /> Nave Pier.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The inner trefoiled arches of the triforium are of great beauty, and are -enriched with fine bold mouldings (see <a href="#fig_758">Fig. 758</a>), supported on bold -shafts, the caps of which are carved with finely executed foliage, -partly showing some survival of first pointed feeling in the design, and -partly copied directly from natural foliage. They indicate a transition -stage from the early to the middle pointed style. The nave wall is not -divided into bays, with the usual vaulting shafts, the roof being -doubtless of timber.</p> - -<p>The central tower over the crossing stands on four piers, similar in -section to, but larger than, the nave piers. The tower itself is square -and plain, and rises, with a double crow-stepped gable above a plain -parapet, to a height of over 90 feet. The water tables of the steep -roofs of the four arms of the church are distinctly visible on the -exterior of the tower.</p> - -<p>The transepts extend 33 feet north and south of the crossing. They are -31 feet wide, and each contains two bays, with a chapel in the eastern -aisle opposite each bay. The east aisle of the south transept is the -only portion of the whole edifice which retains its vaulted roof. One of -the bosses bears a shield containing arms, said to be those of the -abbey. The charge consists of two pastoral staves in saltier, over which -is a heart, and beneath three mullets of five points. The motto is -indistinct.</p> - -<p>The façade of the south transept (<a href="#fig_760">Fig. 760</a>) retains a portion of its -circular window, the tracery in which, like that of the great western -window, has apparently given way, and has had to be partly built up in a -similar manner with solid masonry. This portion of the church possesses -a few features which seem to point to it as the oldest remaining part of -the edifice. The forms of the windows indicate a somewhat earlier date -than the rest of the church. A small portion of the triforium in the -north transept (<a href="#fig_761">Fig. 761</a>) has been spared, which shows that it has been -similar in design to that of the nave.</p> - -<p>The choir (see <a href="#fig_761">Fig. 761</a>) is without aisles, and is 50 feet long by 28 -feet wide, and divided into three bays. It is lighted with one large -traceried east window and two traceried windows on each side; and the -tracery, as rarely happens in Scotland, is still preserved. It is a -peculiarity of this structure that most of the arches are depressed, the -centres from which the arches are struck being below the level of the -capitals; and this peculiarity is particularly apparent in the great -east window of the choir.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340">{340}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_760" id="fig_760"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_340.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_340.png" width="640" height="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 760.</span>—New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. View from -South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341">{341}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_761" id="fig_761"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_341.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_341.png" width="429" height="551" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 761.</span>—New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. Choir, from -Crossing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">is also noticeable in the side windows and throughout the building, even -the arches of the main arcades of the nave having, as already pointed -out, a similar form. The inner mouldings of the window arches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342">{342}</a></span> by this -arrangement abut against or die into the jambs, a form not in itself -displeasing; but the incompleted and broken appearance of the arches of -the hood at the face of the wall cannot be regarded as beautiful.</p> - -<p>Some further peculiarities are also to be noticed in connection with the -tracery. A prominent moulding is carried round the mullions and the -lower arches only of the eastern window, while the upper parts of the -tracery are plain and rather heavy in appearance. In the case of the -side windows of the choir a similar moulding is carried round the whole -of the tracery, and the effect, owing to the depression of the arches, -is somewhat squat and heavy.</p> - -<p>The most beautifully detailed feature of the church is undoubtedly the -triforium. Although now only well preserved in the nave, it has -originally gone round the whole edifice, small portions of it being -still preserved, as above mentioned, in the triforiums of the transepts -and choir (see <a href="#fig_761">Fig. 761</a>). In the two latter places it has been simpler -than in the nave, the caps being moulded in these situations, and -beautifully carved with foliage in the nave.</p> - -<p>The semicircular arch of the upper window in the east gable (<a href="#fig_762">Fig. 762</a>) -of the choir and the similar form in the exterior windows of the -triforium of the nave (see <a href="#fig_757">Fig. 757</a>) are quite in accordance with -Scottish usage, and give no clue to the date.</p> - -<p>The sedilia and piscina of the choir have been of fine workmanship, but -are now sadly destroyed.</p> - -<p>It is unfortunate that so few written records remain to fix the dates of -the different parts of the edifice. It is known to have been founded in -1275, and if in England, the building would, from its style, be -attributed to the period immediately succeeding; but in Scotland, the -period from 1296 onwards was a time of war and disturbance, when very -little building was in progress. Probably the choir was begun in the -lifetime of the foundress, and was sufficiently far advanced to permit -of her burial within the walls; but the building would certainly be -interrupted during Edward’s invasions, and was not likely to be resumed -till after a considerable interval. Some portions of the transept have -already been referred to as probably the oldest parts of the existing -edifice. The choir seems to have been next constructed or completed, and -the nave not long afterwards, probably during the fourteenth century. -Although ecclesiastical buildings in Scotland were rare at that period, -still we know that Bruce encouraged the re-erection of churches at -Melrose, Crosraguel, St. Andrews, and elsewhere, and there can be little -doubt but that in this remote and quiet region building operations may -have been in progress during his reign. The design and workmanship at -Sweetheart are, as we have seen, in some respects inferior and contrast -disadvantageously with the beautiful work at Dundrennan Chapter House. -May we hazard the conjecture that the latter was executed before the -true current of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343">{343}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_762" id="fig_762"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_343.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_343.png" width="586" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 762.</span>—New Abbey, or Sweetheart Abbey. View from -North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344">{344}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">architectural feeling and design was stopped and broken by the War of -Independence, while the buildings at Sweetheart were carried on and -completed after the current had been interrupted, and the sympathy with -the advancing art of the South had not had time fully to recover itself?</p> - -<p>We are informed<a name="FNanchor_131_131" id="FNanchor_131_131"></a><a href="#Footnote_131_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> that, in 1381, a charter to the Church of St. -Colmonel of Butyle was granted by the Bishop of Galloway to Sweetheart -Abbey on account of the poverty of the abbey and the demolition of the -monastery by lightning, which charter was confirmed by the Pope in 1397. -This seems to point to some considerable damage sustained by the -buildings about that period, and may account for the curious repairs of -the tracery of the great west window and the circular window of the -south transept. It may also explain the remarkable patch of the upper -window in the end of the north transept, where the originally pointed -window has been mended with a segmental top.</p> - -<p>The cloister garth is still traceable and is unencumbered with -buildings, except one detached gable, evidently of ancient date, but the -history and use of which cannot now be determined (see <a href="#fig_760">Fig. 760</a>). It -contains two shields, but the armorial bearings have entirely -disappeared. This view from the south-west point, which includes the -above ivy-clad gable in the foreground, with the remains of the chapter -house and an ancient tree on the opposite side of the cloister garth, is -one of the most striking and picturesque aspects of the abbey.</p> - -<p>The chapter house is separated from the south transept by a narrow -passage or slype, from which a door opened into the transept.</p> - -<p>The size of the chapter house has been about 30 feet by 20 feet, but -only a few feet of its walls remain. It has been lighted by a large -traceried window looking to the east (see <a href="#fig_760">Fig. 760</a>). The refectory is -said to have been on the south side of the cloisters, but it has now -disappeared.</p> - -<h3>MELROSE ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Roxburghshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Amongst the picturesque and beautiful remains of our ancient church -architecture, the ruins of Melrose Abbey most deservedly occupy a -distinguished place. Apart altogether from the charm which attaches to -this edifice from the poetic interest which has been thrown around it, -and the attractive nature of the beautiful locality, the architecture of -the building is of a high order, and particularly valuable from the -richness and completeness of its details, which afford a fine -illustration of a period of Scottish architecture the examples of which -are not numerous. The building stands in the sheltered and cultivated -vale of the Tweed, surrounded by gentle pastoral hills, presenting one -of those peaceful sites dear to the Cistercians, by whom the abbey was -colonised. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345">{345}</a></span> founded by David <small>I.</small>, who brought to it from Rievalle, -in Yorkshire, the first monks of the Cistercian order in Scotland. A -more ancient Abbey of Melrose had existed from the seventh century, on a -broad meadow, nearly surrounded by a “loop” of the Tweed, about two and -a-half miles lower down the river. It was established about the year -650, and the first abbot was Eata, one of the chosen band of disciples -educated by Aidan, the missionary from Iona, who converted the heathen -Northumbrians, and founded the Abbey of Lindisfarne. In the primitive -monastery of Old Melrose St. Cuthbert spent much of his early life -before passing to more distinguished charges at Hexham and Lindisfarne. -Here also the monks of Lindisfarne, when expelled by the Danes, found -refuge, bringing with them St. Cuthbert’s sacred body, which, after many -wanderings, found a final and worthy resting-place at Durham. This -establishment at Old Melrose suffered many vicissitudes, and in the -eleventh century was a ruined and desolate place. It afterwards became -the retreat of a few monks, amongst whom was Turgot, the confessor and -biographer of Queen Margaret, and subsequently Bishop of St. Andrews. A -chapel was erected and dedicated to St. Cuthbert, which at first -belonged to Coldingham, but was finally presented by David <small>I.</small> to his new -Abbey of Melrose.</p> - -<p>The latter abbey was founded, in 1136, at a place then called Fordell, -and was endowed by King David and his nobles with ample lands. The -church then erected was in course of building for ten years. It was -consecrated in 1146, and was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. As only a -short time had elapsed since the founding of the abbey, the buildings -then constructed probably consisted of the residence of the monks and an -oratory. These erections were no doubt in the Norman style of the -period, of which style some examples are preserved in the other -monasteries founded in the district about the same period, such as the -Abbeys of Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dryburgh.<a name="FNanchor_132_132" id="FNanchor_132_132"></a><a href="#Footnote_132_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a> How long the original -structures continued it is now impossible to say, as every trace of them -has long since disappeared. From its situation, in the direct path -between England and Scotland, Melrose was particularly exposed to -danger, and frequently suffered in the wars between the two countries.</p> - -<p>Many of the abbots were distinguished men. Waltheof, an early abbot, was -reputed a saint and worker of miracles. The connection with the parent -house of Rievalle was kept up, and monks from Melrose sometimes became -abbots of the Yorkshire monastery. Melrose also sent abbots to other -Cistercian houses, including Kinloss, Coupar, Newbattle, Deer, and -Balmerino.</p> - -<p>The possessions of the abbey soon increased, and it held lands in many -parts of Scotland. Its property was considerably augmented, in 1235, by -a grant from King Alexander <small>II.</small> of the lands of Ettrick Forest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346">{346}</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1246 Abbot Matthew erected many convenient offices and buildings and -a magnificent hall on the bank of the river for himself and his -successors, but these structures have now disappeared.</p> - -<p>In 1291 Edward <small>I.</small> granted protection to the monks of Melrose, but when -John Baliol opposed him, he took possession of their lands. These, -however, he subsequently restored, on the monks doing homage to him as -liege lord. His letters to the sheriffs of counties show how extensively -the monastery’s lands were spread, extending even into England. These -letters were addressed to the sheriffs in Berwick, Ayr, Jedburgh, -Peebles, Edinburgh, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and Northumberland.</p> - -<p>Edward <small>II.</small>, in 1322, invaded Scotland as far as Edinburgh, and, in -retiring from his unsuccessful expedition, he slew the monks and -pillaged and destroyed the abbey. The church and other buildings seem to -have been greatly ruined on this occasion, and were rebuilt thereafter -chiefly through the influence and liberality of King Robert Bruce. In -1326 King Robert granted the monks rents from forfeited lands equivalent -to a sum of £2000 (which would now represent £15,000), to enable them to -rebuild the abbey, which lay in ruins; and in 1329, shortly before his -death, he addressed a letter to his son and successor, recommending the -abbey to his favour, and desiring his heart to be buried in the church. -Melrose, along with other portions of the south of Scotland, remained in -the hands of Edward <small>III.</small> for about forty years.</p> - -<p>In 1385 Richard <small>II.</small> carried out another unsuccessful, though -destructive, invasion of the south of Scotland. As he retreated -homewards he lodged one night in Melrose Abbey, and next morning set -fire to it and destroyed it, as he also did to the abbeys of Newbattle -and Dryburgh.</p> - -<p>About the middle of the fifteenth century Andrew Hunter was abbot. He -was confessor of James <small>II.</small>, and was employed in many offices of State, -being Ambassador to France in 1448, and concerned in negotiations with -England till 1460. He was also Lord High Treasurer, 1449-53.</p> - -<p>This abbot being a man of such high office, it is natural to look for -some benefit arising to the abbey through his influence, and accordingly -we find that he has left his mark on the church, his coat of arms being -carved at least three times on different parts of the building. This -leads to the conclusion that some portions of the structure were erected -by him, and gives a clue to the date of erection of those portions.</p> - -<p>The secularisation of the property of the abbey followed the usual -course in the sixteenth century. In 1535 King James <small>V.</small> was invested with -the administration of the revenues, and, in 1541, he conferred the abbey -on his infant son—Durie, the abbot, retiring on a pension to make way -for him.</p> - -<p>During the repeated invasions of the Generals of Henry <small>VIII.</small>, the abbeys -of the south of Scotland suffered along with the churches and domestic -buildings of the district. In 1544 Melrose was damaged by Sir<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347">{347}</a></span> Ralph -Eure and Sir Bryan Laiton, who also defaced the tombs of the Douglases -in the church—a disgrace which was avenged the following year by the -defeat of the English at Ancrum Moor. The above destructive attack was -followed by that of the Earl of Hertford, who demolished what of the -Border abbeys had not already been destroyed.</p> - -<p>In 1558 Cardinal Guise was Commendator of Melrose, and, in 1559, the -abbey was taken possession of by the Lords of the Congregation. In 1560 -it was annexed to the Crown; but an allowance was granted to eleven -monks and three portioners, being apparently all who survived of the -inmates of the monastery, who, in 1542, numbered one hundred monks and -as many lay brethren.</p> - -<p>Under Queen Mary the estates were granted to the Earl of Bothwell, with -the title of Commendator, and, after passing through the hands of -Douglas of Lochleven and Sir John Ramsay, they were ultimately acquired -by the Scotts of Buccleuch.</p> - -<p>The abbey appears never to have recovered the destruction of the -sixteenth century, and gradually fell into decay. The materials of the -buildings were used for the erection of other structures, and Douglas, -the Commendator, built a house for himself out of the ruins.</p> - -<p>The masonry long continued to form a quarry for the supply of the -locality, being used, amongst other purposes, for the erection of the -Tolbooth and for repairing the mills and sluices.</p> - -<p>In 1618 the portion of the structure which still remained was fitted up -as the parish church, and, in order to render it secure, a plain pointed -barrel vault was thrown across the nave, and was supported by plain -square piers built against the old piers on the north side. The original -vaulting seems to have been previously demolished.</p> - -<p>By remarkable good fortune the statues and images which filled the -niches escaped destruction till 1649, when they suffered at the hands of -an iconoclast, but by whose orders it is not known.</p> - -<p>The charters of the abbey have been kept amongst the archives of the -Earl of Morton, and form “the finest collection of ancient writs -preserved in Scotland.”<a name="FNanchor_133_133" id="FNanchor_133_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a></p> - -<p>Of the once extensive structures connected with the Abbey of Melrose -there now only remain the ruins of the church.</p> - -<p>The domestic buildings and cloister, including the hall of Abbot Matthew -above mentioned, were situated, somewhat contrary to the usual practice, -on the north side of the church. The course of the Tweed has altered -since the thirteenth century; and possibly this arrangement of the plan -may have had some connection with facilities for water service in the -then course of the river. A mill-lade still flows along what would -formerly be the north side of the monastery; but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348">{348}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_763" id="fig_763"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_348.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_348.png" width="661" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 763.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349">{349}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the domestic structures have now entirely disappeared, leaving only a -portion of the cloister to indicate their position on the north side of -the nave. A door at a high level in the north transept shows the access -of the monks to the church from the dormitory, which lay to the north. A -similar high door, leading from the dormitory to the church by a -straight stair, still exists at Pluscardine Priory, and there is a -corresponding doorway at Dryburgh Abbey; but in these convents the -monastic buildings lay on the south side of the church.</p> - -<p>The church is cruciform, and the Plan (<a href="#fig_763">Fig. 763</a>) has this peculiarity, -that the choir is unusually short and the nave is unusually long. The -choir extends, with aisles, only two bays eastwards from the crossing, -beyond which point the presbytery is carried one bay further, without -aisles, and is lighted by large windows on the north and south sides, as -well as by the great eastern window.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_764" id="fig_764"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_349.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_349.png" width="240" height="204" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 764.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Plan of Nave Pier.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The shortness of the choir rendered it necessary that part of the nave -should be appropriated for the accommodation of the monks, and the -enclosing screen wall of this portion of the “choir” extended to the -fourth pier west from the crossing, where it was carried across the nave -and formed the rood screen. This arrangement is apparent from the broken -portions of the screen wall, which formed integral parts of the -structure of the nave piers (<a href="#fig_764">Fig. 764</a>), having been built along with -them, thus showing that the screen constituted a feature in the original -design. The part of this screen which crosses the nave still exists. It -is wide, and contained a gallery, on top of which stood the rood. -<a href="#fig_765">Fig. 765</a> shows the door through it from the nave. On the left is the small -stone stair leading to the gallery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350">{350}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_765" id="fig_765"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_350.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_350.png" width="453" height="658" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 765.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Doorway in Rood Screen.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351">{351}</a></span></p> - -<p>The nave now extends to eight bays in length, but it has been intended -to be longer, the west end being incomplete; it is impossible, however, -to say how far it was meant to extend. It is stated that the foundations -of the nave have been found, in excavating, to reach to a considerable -distance westward. The existing nave is 160 feet in length, and has -north and south aisles. Extending southwards, beyond the south aisle, is -a series of eight chapels, which produce, externally, along with the -south aisle the appearance of a double aisle (<a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>).</p> - -<p>The north aisle is narrower than the south aisle, the former being 6 -feet and the latter 11 feet in width. This difference may have arisen -from the plan of the original abbey of the twelfth century being adhered -to in the later reconstruction. The position of the cloister may have -hampered the design, and prevented the north aisle from being widened in -the direction of the cloister.</p> - -<p>The central nave is 26 feet in width, and the depth of the south chapels -13 feet 6 inches, and the total width of the nave, with aisles and -chapels, is 68 feet.</p> - -<p>The transept consists of two portions—the north and south -transepts—and contains the usual eastern aisle only, in which are -situated four chapels. The total length of the transept over the -crossing is 114 feet 6 inches, and the width of the north transept, -including the aisle, is 40 feet 6 inches, while that of the south -transept is 42 feet 6 inches.</p> - -<p>The length of the choir and presbytery is 59 feet, and the width 26 -feet. The aisles of the transept return along each side of the choir for -two bays, leaving the length of the aisleless presbytery 24 feet.</p> - -<p>The plan or outline of the walls of the church, as above described, is -still almost all preserved, but the superstructure has suffered -severely. The western part of the nave beyond the rood screen is very -greatly demolished. The portion eastwards from the rood screen is in -better condition. The vaulting of the aisles (<a href="#fig_767">Fig. 767</a>) remains, and is -in good preservation; but that of the centre aisle is demolished, a -pointed tunnel vault (<a href="#fig_768">Fig. 768</a>) having been constructed in 1618, as -above described. A few courses of the springing of the original groins, -seen rising above the vaulting shafts of each bay, have been left -standing. The level cornice at the springing of the inserted arch -defaces the clerestory windows, and builds up the upper half of them in -the interior. The roof over the arch is composed of slabs of stone -carefully dressed (see <a href="#fig_766">Figs. 766</a> and <a href="#fig_769">769</a>). The carved work of the caps -of the piers and other enrichments of this portion of the nave are well -preserved and are of beautiful workmanship (<a href="#fig_770">Fig. 770</a>).</p> - -<p>The eight chapels which extend along the south side of the nave are in -good preservation, although some parts of the three furthest west are -somewhat damaged and have lost their vaulting. That of the remaining -five still exists, and is protected by a flat slated roof, which -stretches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352">{352}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_766" id="fig_766"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_352.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_352.png" width="574" height="434" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 766.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Nave, from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353">{353}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_767" id="fig_767"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_353.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_353.png" width="433" height="575" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 767.</span>—Melrose Abbey. South Side of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">over the south aisle and the chapels (see <a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>). The tracery in the -windows of those chapels is good, and has suffered much less than usual. -The vaulting of the nave, south aisle, and chapels is supported by a -series of flying buttresses, which form one of the most prominent and -beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354">{354}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_768" id="fig_768"></a></p><a href="images/ill_pg_354.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_354.png" width="439" height="582" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 768.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Rood Screen and Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355">{355}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_769" id="fig_769"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_355.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_355.png" width="410" height="581" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 769.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Niche, in Nave Pinnacle, with -Figure of St. Andrew.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356">{356}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">elements of the building. No church in Scotland retains such a striking -example of that important feature of Gothic architecture.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_770" id="fig_770"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_356.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_356.png" width="389" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 770.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Caps of Piers in Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The eastern piers of the crossing have been demolished, probably in some -of the attempts to blow up the building in Henry <small>VIII.</small>’s time. Their -destruction has entailed that of the central tower, of which only the -western wall remains (see <a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>). The transepts have suffered by the -fall of the tower, the vaulting of the north transept being demolished, -except in one chapel, while that of the south transept is reduced to the -south bays of the central nave and the adjoining chapel (<a href="#fig_771">Fig. 771</a>). -Fortunately the south wall of the transept, with its splendid decorated -window, is still in good preservation (<a href="#fig_772">Fig. 772</a>). From the south -transept access is obtained to the roof of the aisle of the nave and the -upper parts of the structure by a turnpike stair, which also forms the -only mode of approach to the tower (<a href="#fig_773">Fig. 773</a>).</p> - -<p>The choir (<a href="#fig_774">Fig. 774</a>), so far as the east end is concerned, is well -preserved, the buttresses and gable, the celebrated eastern window, and -the remarkable vaulting (<a href="#fig_775">Fig. 775</a>) of the presbytery being all in good -order. The remainder of the choir, however, has been greatly wrecked by -the fall of the central tower; but many of the windows of the choir and -transept,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357">{357}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_771" id="fig_771"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_357.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_357.png" width="423" height="568" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 771.</span>—Melrose Abbey. South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">with their perpendicular tracery, have escaped destruction and afford -the best example in Scotland of that form of design (<a href="#fig_776">Fig. 776</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358">{358}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_772" id="fig_772"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_358.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_358.png" width="440" height="570" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 772.</span>—Melrose Abbey. South Transept: Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Having described the present condition of the edifice, we shall now -consider the different parts in the order of their age, so far as -ascertainable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359">{359}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_773" id="fig_773"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_359.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_359.png" width="444" height="561" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 773.</span>—Melrose Abbey. South-West Angle of South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There seems to be no part now traceable of the church erected in the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360">{360}</a></span>twelfth century, except perhaps one or two tombstones. It has been</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_774" id="fig_774"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_360.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_360.png" width="428" height="515" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 774.</span>—Melrose Abbey. East End of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">pointed out above that the arrangements of that original church and -cloister probably influenced the position of the north wall of the nave, -and thus caused the narrowness of the north aisle. It seems not -improbable that some of the original north wall may be preserved as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361">{361}</a></span> -core of the present wall, having been faced up with newer work on each -side.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_775" id="fig_775"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_361.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_361.png" width="422" height="487" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 775.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Interior of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>But, speaking generally, the building, as it now stands, is all of a -date subsequent to Bruce’s time, and much of it is later than the -destruction which occurred under Richard <small>II.</small> in 1385. The nave, from the -crossing to the rood loft, and part of the transepts are, undoubtedly, -the oldest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362">{362}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_776" id="fig_776"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_362.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_362.png" width="451" height="519" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 776.</span>—Melrose Abbey. South-East Angle of Transept -and Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">portions of the existing edifice. The work in these is, for the most -part, of the Scottish decorated period. The nave piers, with their -beautifully-carved caps, and the mouldings of the arches are distinctly -decorated work; and the flying buttresses and pinnacles on the south -side of the nave are, without doubt, of the same period (see <a href="#fig_766">Figs. 766</a> -and <a href="#fig_773">773</a>). So<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363">{363}</a></span> also is the south wall of the transept, with its -magnificent window and tracery and its buttresses, enriched with fine -canopies and quaint figures carved as corbels (see <a href="#fig_772">Fig. 772</a>).</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_777" id="fig_777"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_363.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_363.png" width="151" height="331" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 777.</span>—Melrose Abbey. <br />Niche.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>All these features bear a close affinity to the decorated work of the -nave of York Minster, erected about 1400. The flying buttresses, with -pinnacles enriched with crockets and foliaged finials (see <a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>); -the niches (<a href="#fig_777">Fig. 777</a>), with their elaborate canopies and corbels -composed of figures of monks and angels (see <a href="#fig_769">Figs. 769</a> and <a href="#fig_778">778</a>); the -statues which formerly filled the niches, of which very few now remain; -the decorated tracery of the south transept window (see <a href="#fig_772">Fig. 772</a>); and -the whole character of the work, both in its general scope and in its -details, is of fine decorated design, and vividly recalls that of York, -Beverley, and other English examples. It is not improbable that some -parts of the nave and transept were erected during the period between -the death of King Robert Bruce and the invasion of Richard <small>II.</small> It should -be mentioned that Bruce’s bequest was not all received till 1399, and -the operations also, probably, proceeded slowly. The doorway in the -south wall of the south transept (<a href="#fig_779">Fig. 779</a>) is apparently an insertion -in older work. It is of a later style than the window above; and the -irregular setting of the masonry on each side indicates that there has -been some patching and restoration in this part of the building. -<a href="#fig_780">Fig. 780</a> shows the jamb mouldings of this doorway. A passage or gallery -passed along the interior at the base of the large south window. It had -a parapet of pierced work, now destroyed, supported on a carved cornice -(<a href="#fig_781">Fig. 781</a>), having angels playing on instruments introduced at -intervals.</p> - -<p>It is sometimes said that the north wall of the transept (<a href="#fig_782">Fig. 782</a>) is -of earlier date than the rest; and, at first sight, the three simple -lights and the semicircular doors might give ground for that view. But, -on closer inspection, it is seen that the windows correspond with those -of the clerestory of the nave, and the round arches are simply one of -the peculiarities of Scottish Gothic in which that form is preserved, -especially in doorways, throughout all the periods of the style. The -long lying panel about the middle of the north wall further indicates a -late date.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364">{364}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_778" id="fig_778"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_364.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_364.png" width="430" height="589" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 778.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Pinnacle on South Side of Nave, -with Statue of Virgin.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_365" id="page_365">{365}</a></span></p> - -<p>It seems to have contained a row of statues, as fourteen pedestals or -corbels still occupy its base. The small circular window in the gable, -filled with simple tracery (similar to a window at Dryburgh), is also a -late feature.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_779" id="fig_779"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_365.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_365.png" width="448" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 779.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Doorway in South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The south chapels of the nave have apparently been added during the -repairs of the earlier part of the fifteenth century. The forms of the -flying buttresses (see <a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>), which extend beyond the outer wall of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366">{366}</a></span> -the chapels so as to comprise them, show that the restoration of this -part of the nave is all part of one design; and the arms of Abbot Hunter -(<a href="#fig_783">Fig. 783</a>), which occur on the niche-corbel of the east buttress, -indicate that these buttresses were probably executed towards the middle -of the fifteenth century. The tracery in the windows of the south -chapels would tend to confirm the belief that they belong to the -decorated period, but for the fact that this feature cannot be fully -relied on in Scotland as an index of date, tracery similar to this being -sometimes used at a later time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_780" id="fig_780"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_366-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_366-a.png" width="236" height="235" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 780.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Door Jamb in South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_781" id="fig_781"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_366-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_366-b.png" width="263" height="152" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 781.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Cornice under Gallery, inside -South Window of Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is a distinct change in the design of the transepts from that of -the nave, as if the former had been added to the latter at a later -period.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367">{367}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_782" id="fig_782"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_367.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_367.png" width="427" height="575" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 782.</span>—Melrose Abbey. North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368">{368}</a></span></p> - -<p>This is observable in the west wall of the north transept (see -<a href="#fig_782">Fig. 782</a>), but still more so in the west wall of the south transept -(<a href="#fig_784">Fig. 784</a>). The window nearest the nave is of a different design from that of -the one further off. The former (<a href="#fig_785">Fig. 785</a>) may be older, and the latter -(which is the same as the other windows of the choir and transept) was, -probably, built at the same time as the latter. The stair turret is, -doubtless, also of this date. It may be remarked, in connection with -this point, that the bases of the two piers of the south aisle of the -nave, next the crossing (see <a href="#fig_784">Fig. 784</a>), differ from those of the -remainder of the nave aisle (<a href="#fig_786">Fig. 786</a>), as well as from the bases of the -east piers of the transept (<a href="#fig_787">Fig. 787</a>). These bases also differ from -those of the nave piers (<a href="#fig_788">Fig. 788</a>). The same Fig. also shows the -exterior base of the choir. The pier at the angle of the south aisle -with the transept has no wall-shaft to carry the vaulting, which springs -from a corbel (see <a href="#fig_784">Fig. 784</a>). The vaulting at this angle is also -peculiar, and does not fit well with the aisle vaults further west, but -has a straight piece of wall built in perpendicularly for the cross rib -to stop upon (see <a href="#fig_784">Fig. 784</a>). These points appear to indicate that the -piers next the crossing are older than the remainder. The vaulting -shafts of the main nave piers are somewhat unusual in design (<a href="#fig_789">Fig. 789</a>), -having in their lower part the appearance of a double shaft, although -above the corbel, near the level of the capitals, they assume the form -of a triple vaulting shaft of the usual design. The same arrangement has -been copied in the transept (<a href="#fig_790">Fig. 790</a>), where the piers seem to have -been carried up from old bases, as the double vaulting shaft has no -proper base, but simply buts against the round form of the ancient base -(see <a href="#fig_787">Fig. 787</a>), and in some cases fits on to it awkwardly.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_783" id="fig_783"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_368.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_368.png" height="172" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 783.</span>—Melrose Abbey.<br /> Abbot Hunter’s Arms.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Turning now to the choir, we find that the east wall and the other -eastern parts of the structure are more recent than the nave. Probably -this portion of the church (see <a href="#fig_774">Fig. 774</a>) had been more damaged by -Richard II. than the nave, and required to be almost wholly rebuilt. The -style here corresponds closely with the “perpendicular” of England which -prevailed in the fifteenth century. Most of the clerestory windows of -the choir and presbytery are markedly in this style. The great eastern -window (see <a href="#fig_774">Fig. 774</a>) is exceptional and unique, but it has more of the -character of perpendicular than any other style. The design of the -buttresses is slightly different from that of the south wall of the -transept (compare Figs. 772 and 774), but the niches and canopies are -very similar. The upper part of the gable consists of a series of -niches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369">{369}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_784" id="fig_784"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_369.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_369.png" width="449" height="608" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 784.</span>—Melrose Abbey. West Side of South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370">{370}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">over the window arch, which diminish as they ascend towards the apex; -and the gable coping, crowned with a pierced parapet, filled in with -quatrefoils, corresponds generally in both cases. The design of the -choir appears to have been borrowed from that of the transept, but is of -a lighter character; or possibly the latter may have been damaged in -1385, and the upper part of both gables may have been designed by the -artist who had charge of the restoration in the fifteenth century. It -will be observed that flying buttresses are continued round this part of -the structure as well as the nave.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_785" id="fig_785"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_370.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_370.png" width="353" height="434" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 785.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Clerestory Window in West Wall -of South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As above stated, the upper portion of the choir walls has been -reconstructed at a date in the fifteenth century later than the nave. -The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371">{371}</a></span> windows</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_786" id="fig_786"></a><a name="fig_787" id="fig_787"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_371-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_371-a.png" width="354" height="182" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 786.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Base of Pier, South Aisle of Nave.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 787.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Base of East Piers of Transept. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_788" id="fig_788"></a><a name="fig_789" id="fig_789"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_371-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_371-b.png" width="331" height="219" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 788.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Bases of Nave Piers<br /> and Base of Exterior of Choir.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 789.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Vaulting Shafts of Main Nave Piers.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">here and in the clerestory of the east wall of the transept are -quite perpendicular in character, and are apparently of the same date as -the presbytery. The clerestory windows of the choir and transept (see -Figs. 775 and 771) have on the exterior arches distinct from those of -the windows on the inside of the wall, which are likewise of late -character. A change in the form of the caps of the piers is observable -in the transept (see <a href="#fig_790">Fig. 790</a>), which points to their being late; while -some of the windows in the lower parts of the walls of the choir and -transept contain curvilinear tracery, thus indicating an earlier date -for the lower part than the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372">{372}</a></span> clerestory. There seems to have been a good -deal of restoration and patching in this part of the structure.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_790" id="fig_790"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_372.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_372.png" width="308" height="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 790.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Cap of Pier and Vaulting Shaft -in North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The design of the west wall of the north transept (see <a href="#fig_782">Fig. 782</a>) is -different from that of the other parts of the building. Owing to the -position of the cloister and to there being no aisle on this side, the -place of the main piers and arches is occupied by a blank wall. The -clerestory windows, however, are of the same design as the rest of the -older church. The wall ribs of the vaulting include two windows in each; -and the space between the windows is occupied by two niches, each -carried up from a shaft, with late canopies, containing statues of St. -Peter and St. Paul—the former having the keys and the latter holding -his sword. These are the best preserved statues in the church, but they -are not of very remarkable workmanship.</p> - -<p>The building or restoration of the eastern part of the edifice seems, -from its style, to have been carried out towards the middle of the -fifteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373">{373}</a></span> century. The vaulting of the south transept appears to have -been erected by Abbot Hunter about the same time. On one of the -keystones of the vault of the south transept are carved the Hunter -arms—viz., three hunting horns, with a crosier, and the letters A. H. -This fixes the date of that part of the vaulting about 1450-60, and -probably more of the vaulting in the eastern part of the nave may have -been carried out at that epoch. It will be observed that the vaults all -contain, besides the main and ridge ribs, subsidiary ribs, or -tiercerons, indicating a similarity to English examples.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_791" id="fig_791"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_373.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_373.png" width="200" height="254" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 791.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Abbot Hunter’s Arms<br /> on Buttress -in Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The vaulting of the presbytery (see <a href="#fig_775">Fig. 775</a>) is peculiar, and points to -a somewhat later time. It consists of a series of ribs spread over the -surface of a pointed barrel vault, so as to form a definite pattern. -These ribs produce a very rich effect, but they are a departure from the -principles of true groined vaulting. This system was introduced in -England at a late period, and led gradually to fan tracery. In the -method of vaulting, adopted in late English work, the ribs are no longer -relied on, as in genuine Gothic, as the strengthening nerves or centres -which sustain the panels of the vault. They become mere ornaments on the -surface of plain barrel or intersecting vaults, such as those used in -Roman architecture. The vaults of late architecture in England (although -ornamented with ribs) are thus constructed on the same principles as -those of the pointed barrel vaults of late Scottish churches (of which -numerous examples will be given hereafter), the only difference being -that the latter are generally left plain, although occasionally enriched -with ornamental surface ribs. Very fine examples of vaulting similar to -that of the presbytery of Melrose may be seen at Winchester -Cathedral<a name="FNanchor_134_134" id="FNanchor_134_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> and other English examples of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>The south chapels to the west of the fifth buttress west from the -transept, on which buttress another specimen of Abbot Hunter’s arms -(Fig.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374">{374}</a></span> 791) is engraved, are of comparatively late date. This buttress -belongs to the earlier part of the nave, and the chapel seems to have -been repaired when the additional chapels to the west were erected. -Besides the three hunting horns in the shield of Abbot Hunter in the -examples above mentioned, the arms engraved on the fifth buttress -contain two crosiers saltierwise, and the initials A. H. on the right -and left; also, in chief a rose, and in base a mason’s mell, for -Melrose. The work in the chapels to the west is inferior to that of -those to the eastward, although copied from them. The chapels each -contain an enriched piscina (<a href="#fig_792">Fig. 792</a>); and these are so inferior in -style of workmanship as to lead to the belief that they were inserted -after the chapels were built. One of them contains the initials of Abbot -William Turnbull, whose date is the beginning of the sixteenth century. -A late piscina (<a href="#fig_793">Fig. 793</a>) has also been inserted in the south transept.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_792" id="fig_792"></a><a name="fig_793" id="fig_793"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_374.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_374.png" width="392" height="292" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 792.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Piscina in South Chapel.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 793.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Piscina in South Transept.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Work in the nave and in the south chapels was apparently in progress -during the reign of James <small>IV.</small>, as the royal arms (<a href="#fig_794">Fig. 794</a>), with the -letters I. Q. (Jacobus Quartus), and the date 1505 on the westmost -buttress testify.</p> - -<p>On the south side of the cloister is the very charming doorway -(<a href="#fig_795">Fig. 795</a>) which leads into the church. It is, as is very usual, circular -headed, and enriched with a deep bay containing bold mouldings, which in -Eng<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375">{375}</a></span>land would, from the square arrangement of their orders, be regarded -as of early date. But the style of the richly carved and undercut caps -and the foliaged hood mould clearly points to a later period than would -at first sight be supposed, certainly not earlier than the nave. To the -right of this, and along the east wall of the cloister (see <a href="#fig_795">Fig. 795</a>), -are arched recesses of a late style; and in the south wall is an arcade -of trefoil form, with nail-head enrichments. The latter might also at -first sight be regarded as early work, but closer inspection shows that -it is an example of the late revival of early forms which prevailed -towards the close of the Gothic epoch.</p> - -<p>Not a fragment remains to show how the cloister walk was enclosed. The -roof has evidently been of wood, from the corbels for the wall plate and -the holes cut in the wall to receive the timbers (see <a href="#fig_795">Fig. 795</a>). These -probably rested on a series of pillars and arches running round the -outer side of the cloister walk, but whether of stone or timber cannot -now be determined. It seems not unlikely, from its entire disappearance, -that the outer arcade may have been of timber.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_794" id="fig_794"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_375.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_375.png" width="158" height="328" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 794.</span>—Melrose Abbey.</p> - -<p>Royal Arms on West Buttress.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is stated in Wade’s <i>History of Melrose Abbey</i><a name="FNanchor_135_135" id="FNanchor_135_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a> that the arcade -of the cloister formerly extended 150 feet each way. The wall of the -cloister is now reduced to the portions which abut against the nave and -transept, being 50 feet on the east side and 80 feet on the south side. -The former side contains a wall arcade of seven arches (see <a href="#fig_795">Fig. 795</a>). -These are of the form called drop arches, with crocketed ogee hood -moulding, and have plain spandrils above, over which there runs a -straight cornice, enriched with flowers and shells of all descriptions, -very beautifully carved. It is of these Sir Walter truly says—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Nor herb nor floweret glistened there<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But was carved in the cloister arches as fair.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Of the tower (see <a href="#fig_766">Fig. 766</a>) over the crossing, which is 84 feet high, -only the western wall, with small portions of the north and south walls, -now exists. It rises one story in height above the nave roof, and is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376">{376}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_795" id="fig_795"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_376.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_376.png" width="640" height="342" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 795.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Wall Arcades and North Doorway -in Cloister.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377">{377}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">crowned with a parapet filled in with quatrefoils, and resting on an -enriched and corbelled cornice. At each angle is a shaft rising from a -corbel. The three windows are simple, with pointed arch and cusped -trefoil, similar to those of the clerestory of the nave and north -transept. The tower has, doubtless, been erected about the same time as -the transept.</p> - -<p>The above description of the various portions of the abbey suffices to -show how full of interest it is to the student of architecture as well -as to the artist.</p> - -<p>We have drawn attention to the more prominent features, but it is -impossible for us here to enter fully into all the multiplicity of -details which such an elaborate structure offers for observation and -study.</p> - -<p>No building in Scotland affords such an extensive and almost -inexhaustible field for minute investigation and enjoyment of detail as -this. Whether we consider the great variety of the beautifully -sculptured figures of monks and angels playing on musical instruments -(<a href="#fig_796">Fig. 796</a>), or displaying “the scrolls which teach us to live and die,” -or turn to the elaborate canopies and beautiful pinnacles of the -buttresses (see <a href="#fig_769">Figs. 769</a> and <a href="#fig_778">778</a>), or examine the rich variety of -foliage and other sculptures on the capitals of the nave and the doorway -and arches of the cloisters; or if, again, we take a more general view -of the different parts of the edifice from the numerous fine standpoints -from which it can be so advantageously contemplated, we know of no -Scottish building which surpasses Melrose either in the picturesqueness -of its general aspect, or in the profusion or value of its details.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_796" id="fig_796"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_377.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_377.png" width="368" height="79" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 796.</span>—Melrose Abbey. Figures of Monks and Angels.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It occupies an important position also historically, as it in part -supplies an admirable example of that decorated architecture the -existence of which in this country has been so often denied, but of -which, we trust, a sufficient number of examples are now provided to -render that reproach to Scottish architecture no longer justifiable.</p> - -<p>We have to thank the fine red sandstone of the district, of which the -church is built, for the perfect preservation of all the details of the -structure. These remain, even in the minutest carving, as perfect and -complete as the day they were executed.</p> - -<p>In the south transept (see <a href="#fig_784">Fig. 784</a>) are two remarkable inscriptions, -which have given rise to much speculation. One of these is carved over -the doorway in the west wall which gives access to the wheel stair, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378">{378}</a></span> -part of the inscription is carried down one side for want of room. It -runs as follows:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Sa ye Cumpas gays evyn about<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Sua trouth and laute sall do but diute<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Behalde to ye hende q. Johne Morvo.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The other inscription is carved on a tablet in the wall on the south -side of the same door, viz.:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">John Morow sum tym callit was I<br /></span> -<span class="i0">and born in Parysse certainly<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And had in keeping al masoun werk<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of Santandroys ye hye kyrk<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of Glasgw Melros and Paslay<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of Nyddysdayll and of Galway<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I pray to God and Mari bath<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And sweet S. John kep this haly kirk frae skaith.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In the centre of the former inscription is a sunk panel containing a -shield with two masons’ compasses, arranged somewhat like a saltier, and -beneath a figure resembling a fleur-de-lys.</p> - -<p>The late Dr. John Smith, in the <i>Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society -of Scotland</i>, considers these inscriptions as applying to one man, who -may have been the master mason of the building. But Mr. Pinches, in his -account of the abbey, mentions that John Murdo, or Morow, was engaged in -building a church in Galloway in 1508. It thus seems likely that these -inscriptions are not earlier than that date, and have been added to the -building after its completion.</p> - -<p>Since the foregoing description of Melrose Abbey was written, we have -had the pleasure of reading the very interesting work by Mr. Peter -M‘Gregor Chalmers, called <i>A Scots Mediæval Architect</i>, in which an -attempt is made to identify the <span class="smcap">John Morow</span> of the inscription in the -south transept, and to trace his work in the various localities where he -is stated to have “all mason work in keeping.”</p> - -<p>This book shows a great amount of careful investigation and intelligent -observation in connection with a number of our ecclesiastical -structures, especially Melrose Abbey; and we have to acknowledge our -indebtedness to Mr. Chalmers for some valuable hints, which are duly -noted in their places as they occur.</p> - -<p>The inscription on John Morow’s tablet states that he “had in keeping -all mason work of St. Andrews, the High Kirk of Glasgow, Melrose and -Paisley, of Niddisdale and of Galloway.”</p> - -<p>From this statement it is generally assumed by Mr. Chalmers and other -writers on the subject that John Morow was the architect engaged to -carry out all the architectural work required at the above places during -the term of his official appointment.</p> - -<p>Mr. Chalmers conducts the reader to the various places which John Morow -“had in keeping;” and wherever he finds a fine specimen of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379">{379}</a></span> somewhat -late work, he confidently attributes its design to that “Scots Mediæval -Architect.”</p> - -<p>At Paisley he thinks he can trace his handiwork in a panel which -formerly stood in the abbey wall, built by Abbot Shaw in 1485, from a -certain resemblance in the form of the letters and phraseology employed -to those of the Melrose tablet.</p> - -<p>At Glasgow Cathedral and Lincluden College the design of the rood screen -at each and the chief part of “Blackadder’s Aisle,” and of other details -in the former, is assigned to John Morow.</p> - -<p>At St. Andrews he believes him to be traceable in the carving of certain -coats of arms; and at Melrose Abbey a great part of the later work is -attributed to him.</p> - -<p>At Whithorn Priory and Glenluce Abbey, which are within John Morow’s -province, some work is pointed out which might be of his date; but as it -is somewhat poor in character, that “Mediæval Architect” is presumed to -have been busy elsewhere, and to have left the job to inferior hands.</p> - -<p>It is admitted by Mr. Chalmers that the work at Melrose Abbey must have, -undoubtedly, extended over more than half a century, and would, in all -likelihood, exceed the compass of one man’s lifetime. But as there are -two inscriptions at Melrose to “John Morow,” or Morvo, Mr. Chalmers has -no difficulty in deciding that they are to two members of the same -family, both architects, who, he believes, carried on the works at the -abbey from before the middle of the fifteenth century till some time in -the sixteenth century.</p> - -<p>The inscription on the lintel of the doorway is, therefore, supposed to -be in memory of John Morvo, the assumed grandfather of the John Morow -whose tablet is inserted in the west wall adjoining—the earlier parts -of the work having been carried out by the former, and the later parts -by the latter.</p> - -<p>But Mr. Chalmers’ fancy is not limited to the invention of these great -architects as illustrious members of the family of the Morows. He would -also fain attribute to them other honours and distinctions.</p> - -<p>He therefore assumes that John Morow the younger was identical with John -Murray, of Faulohill, a favourite at the Court of James <small>IV.</small>, from whom -he received many gifts, which favours he requited by rebellion, and by -finally appearing on the scene as the chief actor in the ballad of the -outlaw Murray; of which ballad he is further believed to have been the -author! And, to crown this strange eventful history, we are told that -the success of this architect so excited the jealousy of the nobles that -he was waylaid and assassinated by them.</p> - -<p>Here we have disclosed, if not a history, at least a fiction of the most -thrilling interest in the life and death of the “Mediæval Architect,” -John Morow; and so full of invention is this flight of fancy, that we -trust its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380">{380}</a></span> introduction here will be excused as a relief to the dry -details of prosaic architectural descriptions.</p> - -<p>We have no desire to disturb this touching romance; but we feel called -upon to indicate some points which may be regarded as worthy of -consideration before it is accepted as historically or architecturally -consistent with fact.</p> - -<p>However beautiful this dream may be, and much as the author is entitled -to praise for his careful study of the buildings he describes (which, we -gladly acknowledge, is considerable), we fear that his theory will be -found, on examination, to rest on a very weak and unreliable foundation.</p> - -<p>The following are some objections which at once present themselves:—</p> - -<p>1. Without entering into the question as between the “master of the -work” and the “master mason,” or attempting to prove by whom mediæval -buildings were designed, we believe it has been distinctly shown that -there was in Scotland, about <small>A.D.</small> 1500, no one recognised as “the -architect” apart from the builder. The “master of the works” was a fully -recognised and salaried officer, and would, we believe, be more likely -to receive a tablet such as this than the master mason.<a name="FNanchor_136_136" id="FNanchor_136_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a></p> - -<p>2. But supposing that John Morow, to whom the tablet was erected, was a -master mason. It is assumed that John Morow was a Scot. The inscription -emphasises the statement that he was “born in Paris certainly,” from -which it may be fairly inferred that his French birth and, probably, -education had to do with his appointment. This might indicate that he -was a French master mason; and it is known that many French master -masons were employed under James <small>IV.</small> and <small>V.</small></p> - -<p>3. It is assumed that the name Morow is identical with Murray (an idea -which was suggested, in 1854, by the late Dr. John Smith<a name="FNanchor_137_137" id="FNanchor_137_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a>), but this -is entirely hypothetical. Besides, there is absolutely no evidence -produced to show any connection between John Morow and John Murray of -Faulohill.</p> - -<p>4. Nor can it be shown that the latter had any connection with building -or architecture.</p> - -<p>Let us now glance at the descriptions of the various portions of Melrose -Abbey which are assumed by Mr. Chalmers to be the work of John Morow.</p> - -<p>There seems to be nothing in Mr. Chalmers’ views antagonistic to the -general divisions of Scottish mediæval architecture adopted in this -book; indeed, his observations seem to confirm these divisions, which -assign to the decorated work in Scotland the period before 1460, and to -the late or third pointed work the subsequent period.</p> - -<p>Supposing this to be correct, we suspect that some of the work which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381">{381}</a></span> Mr -Chalmers attributes to John Morow, and of the date of about 1490 to -1510, is in the earlier category. At Melrose, as we have seen, the -decorated work is before 1460, and the later work is quite inferior. -Hence the necessity for the introduction of the earlier John Morvo, to -whom we have no objections, if his existence could be proved. At all -events, it must be conceded that the earlier or decorated work was not -executed by the “Scots Mediæval Architect,” John Morow.</p> - -<p>The same remark will, we think, be found to apply to the rood screen at -Lincluden,<a name="FNanchor_138_138" id="FNanchor_138_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a> and to that at Glasgow,<a name="FNanchor_139_139" id="FNanchor_139_139"></a><a href="#Footnote_139_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> the work at both of which -is very superior to the sixteenth century work at Melrose, and -therefore, in all probability, considerably earlier than John Morow’s -time.</p> - -<p>We observe that Mr. Chalmers considers the choir and presbytery of -Melrose, in which a strong similarity to perpendicular work is -perceptible, to be of the time of James <small>IV.</small>, and sarcastically remarks -on what he considers the unworthy exaltation of the king and his queen -to the place of honour on the apex of the east gable of a building -dedicated to God. But this is an entire assumption. There is no proof -that these figures represent James <small>IV.</small> and Queen Margaret Tudor. The -figures in the east gable appear to us to represent the coronation of -the Blessed Virgin, a frequent subject in similar positions.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_797" id="fig_797"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_381.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_381.png" width="197" height="242" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 797.</span>—Boss from York Minster.<a name="FNanchor_140_140" id="FNanchor_140_140"></a><a href="#Footnote_140_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a></p> -</div></div> - -<p>We have already remarked on the similarity of much of the work at -Melrose to that of York Minster, and there occurs in one of the bosses -of the latter a representation of the coronation of the Blessed Virgin -(<a href="#fig_797">Fig. 797</a>), in which the figures are almost identical in every respect -with those in the east gable of Melrose choir. The attitude is precisely -the same in both. At York, the Saviour is represented as having a beard -and long flowing hair. He is crowned, and holds up the right hand in -benediction, while in the left hand he supports the globe. The Virgin -holds her hands palm to palm, in the attitude of adoration, while an -angel places the crown on her head, and on the other side an angel -throws the censer. Another similar example from Dore Abbey is shown in -<a href="#fig_798">Fig. 798</a>.<a name="FNanchor_141_141" id="FNanchor_141_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382">{382}</a></span></p> - -<p>The figures at Melrose are somewhat wasted by exposure, but a comparison -of the above sketches with that of the east gable (<a href="#fig_774">Fig. 774</a>) will show -that, while there is no ground for the assumption that the latter -represents James <small>IV.</small> and Queen Margaret, there is every reason to -believe that it personifies the more appropriate subject of the -coronation of the Blessed Virgin. In the series of niches on each side -there still remain kneeling figures of adoring angels, which, while most -appropriate to the latter subject, would be quite out of place in the -former.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_798" id="fig_798"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_382-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_382-a.png" width="133" height="128" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 798.</span>—Boss from Dore Abbey.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mr Chalmers gives some interesting details and observations regarding -the chapels in the east aisle of the transept. He points out that these -were probably dedicated to the saints whose statues stand, or stood, on -the west side of the transept, opposite each chapel. Thus, in the north -transept, the chapels would be those of St. Peter and St. Paul, whose -statues still survive in the west wall; while those in the south -transept would be dedicated to St. Andrew and St. John. Mr. Chalmers -suggests that the statue of St. Andrew (see <a href="#fig_769">Fig. 769</a>), which previously -stood opposite his chapel in the south transept, was removed and placed -in a niche in one of the south buttresses, the pedestal being heightened -to receive it, as the statue was too short for the niche. The south -chapel of the transept he believed to be that of St. John. John Morow’s -tablet is opposite this chapel, and his prayer to “Sweet St. John” is, -therefore, most appropriate. Mr. Chalmers points out that the chapels at -the east end of Glasgow Cathedral are dedicated to the same saints and -in the above order.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_382-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_382-b.png" width="381" height="152" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Melrose Abbey.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383">{383}</a></span></p> - -<h3>LINCLUDEN COLLEGE, <span class="smcap">Kirkcudbrightshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This small, but valuable, example of Scottish decorated architecture is -pleasantly situated on a quiet level holm at the junction of the water -of Cluden with the river Nith, about one mile north from Dumfries. -Although the surviving portions of the church are fragmentary, they -exhibit many beautiful details of the Scottish decorated style.</p> - -<p>Originally the site was occupied by a convent of Black or Benedictine -nuns, which was founded in the twelfth century by Uchtred, son of -Fergus, Lord of Galloway, who endowed the convent with lands.<a name="FNanchor_142_142" id="FNanchor_142_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> Of -this establishment only trifling remains can be traced. The edifice -whose ruins now exist was founded anew, about the end of the fourteenth -century, by Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas and Lord of Galloway. He -is said to have expelled the nuns on account of their “insolence;” but -it is also recorded that he acquired considerable possessions by the -transaction. Be this as it may, the earl showed his devotion by -rebuilding the church and endowing a new establishment. The new -foundation consisted of a collegiate church, with the necessary domestic -structures. It comprised at first a provost and twelve canons, Elise, or -Elias, being appointed the first provost in 1404. The second provost was -named Cairns, and under him the college consisted of eight canons, -twenty-four bedesmen, and a chaplain.<a name="FNanchor_143_143" id="FNanchor_143_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a> The surviving remains of the -domestic buildings for the accommodation of the inmates extend in the -form of a long wing to the north of the church (<a href="#fig_799">Fig. 799</a>). These now -consist of a series of vaulted cellars, dimly lighted with one small -loophole in each, and entered by a few steps down from the ground level. -On the floor above the cellars there was probably a large hall; and at -the north end a portion rose into a keep or tower, which probably formed -the residence of the provost (<a href="#fig_800">Fig. 800</a>). In Grose’s <i>Views</i>, drawn in -1789, the tower is shown much more complete than it now is, a large part -having tumbled down a good many years ago. The staircase turret on the -west side was also much higher at the end of last century, having fallen -so recently as 1851. It bore the royal arms and the arms of Provost -William Stewart. These out-buildings would thus appear to have been -built about the beginning of the sixteenth century. Foundations of other -structures are observable, which probably formed a courtyard to the -west; while, on the eastern side, the outline of a wall which enclosed a -considerable space of ground can be traced in the grass-grown mounds. -There is a high mound adjoining to the south-east, which had a winding -path leading to the summit, and from which an extensive view can be -obtained over the level country around.</p> - -<p>It is believed that Lincluden was a frequent residence of the Earls of -Douglas. They were the Wardens of the Western Marches; and a parlia<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384">{384}</a></span>ment -of the Border chiefs was held here in 1468 by Earl William, in order to -revise the laws of Border warfare.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_799" id="fig_799"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_384.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_384.png" width="429" height="569" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 799.</span>—Lincluden College. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385">{385}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_800" id="fig_800"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_385.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_385.png" width="610" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 800.</span>—Lincluden College. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386">{386}</a></span></p> - -<p>Many of the Provosts of Lincluden were men of distinction. For instance, -John Cameron (who died in 1446), besides holding important offices under -the Crown, was afterwards made Bishop of Glasgow; John Winchester, who -died in 1458, became Bishop of Moray; Andrew Stewart, who died in 1501, -was appointed to the Bishopric of Moray; and William Stewart (1545) -became Bishop of Aberdeen. Robert Douglas, the last Provost, enjoyed the -benefice for forty years after the Reformation. Like other incumbents -about that period, he endeavoured to dispose of the property for his own -benefit, but was opposed by the prebendaries. Some of the latter -continued to occupy the college till 1567;<a name="FNanchor_144_144" id="FNanchor_144_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a> and mass was sung in the -church so late as 1586, under sanction of Lord Maxwell. The reversion of -the provostry fell to William Douglas of Drumlanrig, grand-nephew of the -last Provost. Lincluden was erected into a temporal barony in 1565, and -subsequently passed into the hands of the Earl of Nithsdale, whose -descendant, Captain Maxwell of Terregles, has done much for the repair -and preservation of what remains of this charming old building.</p> - -<p>A few traces of the original Norman masonry have been discovered. The -church seems to have occupied the same site as the existing building, -and to have consisted of a nave, 56 feet by 20 feet, and a choir of the -same width. There was a north aisle, 9 feet wide, with cylindrical -pillars and a depressed arcade. A south aisle probably also existed. The -western door (4½ feet wide) can be traced, which had a semicircular arch -of several orders. These facts were all ascertained during recent -excavations.<a name="FNanchor_145_145" id="FNanchor_145_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a></p> - -<p>The Plan (see <a href="#fig_799">Fig. 799</a>) shows the arrangements of the church of the -fifteenth century and the other buildings, so far as preserved. The -church consisted of a choir, which is in a fair state of preservation, -except the roof and vaulting, the former of which has disappeared since -Grose’s time. It is separated by a stone screen, with a wide doorway, -from the nave and transept, which are greatly demolished, only the walls -of the south transept and part of that of the south aisle of the nave -now remaining. The choir is without aisles, and consists of three bays. -It is 44 feet in length by 19 feet 6 inches in breadth internally. The -nave and transept measured about 56 feet in length from the choir -screen, and the nave appears to have contained three bays, with a window -in each. It had an aisle on the south side. The responds of the piers -still partly exist at the east and west ends. The nave and transept were -about the same size as the original nave—viz., 56 feet long, the former -being 20 feet and the aisle 12 feet broad.</p> - -<p>The transept was without aisles, and was 14 feet in width, and projected -12 feet 6 inches beyond the nave aisle. There are foundations traceable -on the north side of the nave, but it is not clear to what buildings -these belonged. It is not improbable, however, that there may have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387">{387}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_801" id="fig_801"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_387.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_387.png" width="433" height="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 801.</span>—Lincluden College. Door to Sacristy, and -Monument to Margaret, Countess of Douglas.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">been a north aisle. The sacristy is entered from the north side of the -choir. The door is very ornate, and contained, on two shields, the arms<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388">{388}</a></span> -of Archibald the Grim and his lady (<a href="#fig_801">Fig. 801</a>). The sacristy was covered -with groined vaulting, and had an entrance from the court of the -domestic apartments.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_802" id="fig_802"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_388.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_388.png" width="430" height="590" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 802.</span>—Lincluden College. Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389">{389}</a></span></p> - -<p>The details of the architecture of the choir are of great beauty -(<a href="#fig_802">Fig. 802</a>). It has often been remarked that they are unusually large and -massive, as if intended for a larger structure, which gives them great -picturesqueness of effect. The corbels which carry the vaulting shafts -are carved in the form of angels, some playing musical instruments. The -caps of the shafts are richly ornamented with foliage and armorial -bearings; and as these are well preserved in the durable red stone of -the district, the heraldic decorations tell the story of the intimate -connection of the Douglas family with the structure (<a href="#fig_803">Fig. 803</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_803" id="fig_803"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_389.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_389.png" width="378" height="121" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 803.</span>—Lincluden College. Caps of Shafts.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Large pointed windows, originally filled with fine geometric tracery -(<a href="#fig_800">Figs. 800</a> and <a href="#fig_804">804</a>), are inserted in all the bays of the south side of -the nave and choir and in the gable walls of the choir and transept. The -design of the tracery may be easily restored from the surviving -fragments (see Billings). The windows of the north wall of the choir are -placed high in the wall and are of small dimensions, owing to the large -monument in that wall, and also because part of the wall was covered by -the roof of the sacristy. The mullions and tracery are all very massive -and of purer geometric form than is generally met with in Scotland. The -somewhat debased tracery common in later Scottish structures is here -entirely absent.</p> - -<p>The exterior of the structure (see <a href="#fig_800">Fig. 800</a>) is simple, but chaste, in -design, and accords well with that of the interior. The base mouldings -and the beautifully-carved cornice are decorated in character.</p> - -<p>The splendid monument in the north wall of the choir (see <a href="#fig_801">Fig. 801</a>) was -erected in memory of Margaret, daughter of Robert <small>III.</small> and wife of -Archibald, 4th Earl of Douglas, son of Archibald the Grim. He went to -France in 1423, with a large retinue, to the aid of Charles <small>VII.</small>, by -whom he was created Duke of Touraine. He was killed at the battle of -Verneuil, in 1424. The countess survived till about 1440. She made -grants to the college in 1429, which were confirmed by her brother, -James <small>I.</small> She also founded a chapel, and increased the number of inmates -from thirteen to thirty-four. The monument is evidently part of the -original design. The choir would, therefore, appear to have been in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390">{390}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_804" id="fig_804"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_390.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_390.png" width="581" height="404" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 804.</span>—Lincluden College. Chancel Arch, Rood Screen, -and Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391">{391}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">progress during the countess’s lifetime, and may thus not have been -completed till the first half of the fifteenth century was well -advanced. In confirmation of this, we find that the arms of Provost -Haliburton (see <a href="#fig_803">Fig. 803</a>) are carved on the south wall, and he was -superior of the college about 1430. The architecture of the church -corresponds in style with the decorated work usual in Scotland in the -first half of the fifteenth century, of which it forms an important -example.</p> - -<p>The monument to the Countess of Douglas is amongst the finest specimens -of that kind of structure in Scotland. It is, like the other features of -the church, of large size for the small building in which it is erected. -The principal arch is semicircular in form, a peculiarity of common -occurrence at all periods in this country. It is very richly ornamented -with running foliage and small shafts and mouldings, and the inner arch -is enriched with a large traceried border, elaborately foiled and -cusped, while the outer label is decorated with carved crockets, and is -carried up with an ogee curve to a large foliaged finial on top. The -sides are bounded by buttresses of light and simple form, finished with -crocketed finials, and a bold cornice, enriched with leaf ornaments, -runs along the top. The base which enclosed the sarcophagus displays an -arcade of nine trefoiled arches, each containing a shield, on which the -arms of the family were formerly blazoned, but they are now much decayed -by the weather.</p> - -<p>“The Lordship of Annandale is represented by its saltier and chief; a -lion rampant, the cognisance of the M‘Dowalls, typifies Galloway; three -stars show the Moray arms, which the founder of Lincluden acquired by -marriage; three stars of the first, with a man’s heart below, indicate -the escutcheon of the Douglases when rising nearer the political zenith. -* * * One of the shields displays a fess chequé, surmounted by a band -ingrailed; another, the same emblem, without the band, these telling, in -heraldic language, of the Royal Stewarts’ connection with the Douglases, -the chequered fess illustrating the old tally method by which stewards -kept their accounts.”<a name="FNanchor_146_146" id="FNanchor_146_146"></a><a href="#Footnote_146_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a></p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_805" id="fig_805"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_391.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_391.png" width="156" height="125" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 805.</span>—Lincluden College.<br /> Cups or Chalices over Main -Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Within the triangle formed by the label over the main arch there occurs -a very remarkable design, consisting of three cups or chalices -(<a href="#fig_805">Fig. 805</a>), each accompanied with a star following one another round the -triangle. As Grose suggests, these probably represent the insignia of -the earl’s office as “panitarius” or cupbearer to the king. Some letters -are engraved at the angles, but they are difficult to decipher. At the -back of the monument are carved the following inscriptions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392">{392}</a></span> “A l’aide -de Dieu,” and, lower down, “Hic jacet Dña Margareta Regis Scotiæ filia -quondam Comitessa de Douglas Dña Gallovidiæ et Vallis Annandiæ.”</p> - -<p>The tomb has been rifled, and is now empty, and the effigy of the -countess, which still reposed on the monument in Pennant’s time (1772), -has now disappeared.<a name="FNanchor_147_147" id="FNanchor_147_147"></a><a href="#Footnote_147_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a></p> - -<p>On the opposite side of the choir are the triple sedilia and piscina -(see <a href="#fig_802">Fig. 802</a>), both fine works, but sadly mutilated. They are of the -usual style of the period, and are adorned with much carving of a -similar description to that of the tomb.</p> - -<p>Behind the place of the high altar, three large plain corbels are -inserted in the wall (see <a href="#fig_802">Fig. 802</a>). These seem to have carried a -reredos of carved stone, and some fragments of a sculptured stone, such -as would have suited for this purpose, still survive (<a href="#fig_806">Fig. 806</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_806" id="fig_806"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_392.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_392.png" width="439" height="228" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 806.</span>—Lincluden College. Fragments of Sculptured -Stone.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As in other churches, the choir was reserved for the ecclesiastics, -being separated from the nave by a stone screen (see <a href="#fig_804">Fig. 804</a>), in -which, however, there is a large doorway, six feet wide, which was -furnished with an iron grating, through which the interior could be seen -from the nave. The upper part of this screen formed a loft, approached -by a turnpike stair. The loft, no doubt, carried the rood. It is wider -than the screen wall, and is supported by three corbelled courses, -decorated with carved work of a large and massive character. The two -upper rows represent angels, with wings, and having their hands crossed -in front of the breast. The lower row shows a number of groups of -figures, much damaged, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393">{393}</a></span> apparently representing scenes from the life -of Christ. The large arch over the screen formed the western termination -of the choir.<a name="FNanchor_148_148" id="FNanchor_148_148"></a><a href="#Footnote_148_148" class="fnanchor">[148]</a></p> - -<p>It will be observed that the springing of the groined vaulting of the -choir (which is now demolished, or, possibly, was never completed) is -still visible, rising from the caps of the vaulting shafts (see -<a href="#fig_802">Fig. 802</a>). The groining, like the other features of the structure, was of a -complete character, corresponding to the perfected style of the -architecture. It comprised the usual transverse, diagonal, and wall -ribs, and had also, as is common in English examples, intermediate ribs, -or tiercerons and ridge ribs. These can all be traced in the remaining -fragments. But what is more remarkable is that the remains of another -and independent tier of vaulting can be observed above the groined roof. -This is evident from the Sketch (see <a href="#fig_802">Fig. 802</a>), which shows the -springing of an upper plain pointed barrel vault, strengthened at -intervals with transverse ribs. Grose compares this with the vaulting of -King’s College Chapel, Cambridge; but he has mistaken the purpose of the -different vaults. That of Cambridge was introduced in order to carry the -pendants of the fan-vaulting below, whereas that of Lincluden has -evidently been built to support a stone roof above. Plain pointed barrel -vaults are very common in Scottish churches, and are invariably -introduced for the purpose of supporting a roof of overlapping stone -slabs. Numerous examples occur in this work, and roofs of that -description were also very usual in the castles—as at Borthwick, &c. -Generally, the barrel vault is visible from the interior; but in the -present instance, the building being a decorated one, a roof of groined -vaulting has been intended under the plain vault.</p> - -<p>Grose speaks of a third roof of timber over the barrel vault, and both -his drawing and Pennant’s indicate a turf or straw covering. But that -could hardly be original. The building was, in their time, almost as -ruinous as now, and it is very likely that the stone slabs of the roof -had been removed, and a temporary wooden roof substituted, or a covering -of turf laid over the barrel vault, which, perhaps, at that time still -remained.</p> - -<p>The space between the two vaults would form a chamber, which may have -been used as a sleeping apartment. The window in the gable is still -visible. A similar apartment, with a window, seems to have existed over -the vaulting of the south transept, and both appear to have entered from -the turret stair in the wall between the nave and choir.</p> - -<p>A similar roof to the above occurs at St. Mirren’s Aisle, Paisley Abbey, -where the two vaults, with a small chamber between them, still exist.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_394" id="page_394">{394}</a></span></p> - -<p>The ornamental work of the nave (see <a href="#fig_804">Fig. 804</a>) is similar to that of the -choir, and of the same date. The vaulting shafts are carried on brackets -carved with the figures of angels, and the caps are of similar massive -design to those of the choir. The tracery of the windows was of the same -geometric or decorated style as that of the choir. The foundations of -the west end of the church are quite distinct, but the foundations on -the north side of the nave seem to have belonged to later buildings, as -they do not harmonise with the design of the church.</p> - -<p>The domestic wing has already been noticed. The cellars of the basement -enter from the courtyard. Some of these have ambries in the walls. An -octagonal turret, about the centre, contained the entrance doorway and a -wheel stair to the upper floor. It was also provided with the shotholes -usual in the sixteenth century.</p> - -<p>Another turret, in the angle next the sacristy, contained a private door -to the latter, and, probably, another stair to the upper floor. The -provost’s tower has evidently, from Pennant’s view, contained at least -four stories; but it is now much decayed and demolished. These buildings -present very much the appearance of a secular dwelling or castle of the -sixteenth century.</p> - -<p>The whole edifice being now surrounded with an iron railing, and -properly looked after, it is hoped that this interesting specimen of -Scottish ecclesiastical architecture will be long preserved from further -ruin.</p> - -<h3>FORTROSE CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Ross-shire</span>.</h3> - -<p>According to tradition, the origin of the Church of Rosemarkie, the -first cathedral of Ross, is ascribed to St. Boniface, otherwise known as -Albanus Kiritinus or Cuiritan. This saint is now supposed to have been -an Irish monk named Cuiritan, who, in the seventh century, adopted the -Roman ecclesiastical forms, and, coming to Scotland, endeavoured to -introduce them there. The legend of Bonifacius is evidently connected -with the revolution by which King Nectan and the Picts conformed to -Rome. After visiting various places in Pictland, and being well received -by King Nectan, St. Boniface founded churches at Restennet<a name="FNanchor_149_149" id="FNanchor_149_149"></a><a href="#Footnote_149_149" class="fnanchor">[149]</a> and -Invergowrie, which were dedicated to St. Peter. Finally, he landed at -Rosemarkie, on the north side of the Moray Frith, the site of an old -Columban monastery founded by Lugadius or Moluog of Lismore, where, -also, he built a church, and named it after St. Peter and -Bonifacius.<a name="FNanchor_150_150" id="FNanchor_150_150"></a><a href="#Footnote_150_150" class="fnanchor">[150]</a></p> - -<p>On this site, which is just opposite the long spit of land which runs -far across the Frith from the south side at Fort George, there arose in -later times a small town, while a larger ecclesiastical establishment, -called the Chanonry, was afterwards founded about one mile further -west.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_395" id="page_395">{395}</a></span> These two places were united under one charter by James <small>II.</small>, in -1444, with the name of Fortrose, and the two small towns still remain in -the same relative position.</p> - -<p>The Culdee College continued at Rosemarkie till the Romanising -influences of Queen Margaret’s sons were brought to bear upon it. In -1126 there occurs the first mention of the Bishop of Rosemarkie in a -charter of David <small>I.</small> It seems probable that here, as at other places, -King David converted the existing Culdee College into a chapter, and -appointed the abbot, or prior, as the bishop of the diocese. The Bishop -of Ross has this peculiarity, that he takes his title from the province, -and not from the town, where he holds his see.</p> - -<p>When Argyle had been brought under the royal power, the whole of North -Argyle was, in 1221, added to the Earldom of Ross, and the diocese was -largely increased by the addition to it of the churches in that county.</p> - -<p>Up to 1227 the Chapter of Rosemarkie was small, consisting of the dean, -the treasurer, the archdeacon, and four canons; but in 1235 Pope Gregory -<small>IX.</small> gave leave to the bishop to found and endow new canonries, and -increase the endowment of the other four.<a name="FNanchor_151_151" id="FNanchor_151_151"></a><a href="#Footnote_151_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a></p> - -<p>It seems probable that at the period of the enlargement of the chapter -the cathedral was moved from Rosemarkie to Chanonry, or Fortrose. -Although most of the buildings which would have fixed the date of this -change are now removed, there still remains one structure which, from -its style, seems to be of the first half of the thirteenth century. This -is the undercroft of the sacristy, an erection the enlargement of which -would be called for by the increased size of the chapter.</p> - -<p>The cathedral then constructed was a large and important building. It -stood on level ground not far from the Moray Frith, over which it -commanded a fine prospect. The ruins still occupy the central position -in the town of Fortrose, and stand in a large open plot of grassy -ground, where they can be well seen, and where they are well cared for.</p> - -<p>The existing portions of the cathedral are very fragmentary. The greater -part of the church and the houses of the bishop and chapter have -entirely disappeared. All that now remains consists of the south aisle -of the nave and the sacristy or undercroft of the chapter house. So -completely have the nave and choir of the church been swept away, that -Mr. Muir was led to imagine that the existing south transept was the -main body of the cathedral, and that it had only had an aisle on the -north side.<a name="FNanchor_152_152" id="FNanchor_152_152"></a><a href="#Footnote_152_152" class="fnanchor">[152]</a> But the excavations undertaken, about twenty-five years -ago, by the Commissioners of Her Majesty’s Woods and Forests, laid bare -the foundations of the choir and nave, and showed that the cathedral had -been a complete structure, with a choir 85 feet in length, and a nave -100 feet in length, the width of both being 25 feet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_396" id="page_396">{396}</a></span></p> - -<p>What the style of the edifice was we have now no means of knowing; but -it may be assumed that, like the sacristy, it was built in the first -pointed style, which prevailed in the thirteenth century, when the see -is believed to have been removed from Rosemarkie to Fortrose.</p> - -<p>Mr. Muir may well have been deceived with regard to the existing south -aisle, for it is a structure of unusual size and splendour, and, in its -present solitary condition, presents rather the appearance of a complete -church, with distinct choir and nave, than that of a nave aisle. It is -composed of two parts (<a href="#fig_807">Fig. 807</a>), an eastern portion, which measures 41 -feet 6 inches in length by 21 feet broad, and a western portion, 56 feet -6 inches long by 14 feet 9 inches broad, with a bell turret projecting -at the angle where the two parts meet.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_807" id="fig_807"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_396.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_396.png" width="422" height="188" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 807.</span>—Fortrose Cathedral. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Both of the divisions are elegantly vaulted in the English style, with -ridge ribs and tiercerons or intermediate ribs. On the north side is a -range of clustered pillars and arches, forming five bays, which -separated the aisle from the nave. Some of the arch openings are -enriched with canopied monuments.</p> - -<p>The east end (<a href="#fig_808">Fig. 808</a>) contained a large traceried window of five -lights, and some fragments of the tracery still cling to the arch. The -window is rather short for its width, being kept high, so as to admit of -an altar and reredos. The south wall has also been pierced with -traceried windows, now, unfortunately, mutilated. The other division -towards the west end contains a doorway, formerly sheltered by a large -porch, now demolished.</p> - -<p>The exterior (<a href="#fig_809">Fig. 809</a>) presents, at the east and west ends, the -appearance of complete gables, with a span roof, not a lean-to roof, as -is usual over aisles. The buttresses are of good form, and the enriched -cornice still survives. The parapet is gone, but at the west end a wide<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_397" id="page_397">{397}</a></span> -stone gutter, or alure, supported on corbels and roofed in, still -remains. The windows of the western portion are less elaborate than -those of the eastern portion.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_808" id="fig_808"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_397.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_397.png" width="441" height="535" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 808.</span>—Fortrose Cathedral. East End of South Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_398" id="page_398">{398}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_809" id="fig_809"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_398.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_398.png" width="573" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 809.</span>—Fortrose Cathedral. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_399" id="page_399">{399}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the angle between the two divisions of the aisle a staircase and bell -turret are erected. Rising from a square base the walls are changed by a -set-off on each angle into an octagon; a balcony is carried round the -turret, and the top is finished with a modern pointed roof.</p> - -<p>The whole of the architecture of the aisle is of unusually good design, -and the building is altogether quite unique and full of beauty and -interest.</p> - -<p>Not the least remarkable feature in the structure is the range of -canopied monuments which stand between the pillars on the north side. In -connection with these monuments, the history of the edifice has been -ingeniously traced by Mr. Chisholm-Batten.<a name="FNanchor_153_153" id="FNanchor_153_153"></a><a href="#Footnote_153_153" class="fnanchor">[153]</a> The eastmost monument -(see <a href="#fig_808">Fig. 808</a>) is traditionally stated to be that of a Countess of Ross; -and Mr. Chisholm-Batten, from various indications in the building, shows -that it was, in all probability, the Countess Eufamia, daughter and -heiress of the Earl of Ross, who erected this aisle, and is buried under -the eastern monument therein. This lady was possessed of ample means to -erect such a splendid structure. She married, first, in 1366, Walter de -Leslie, and succeeded, in 1372, to the estates of Ross. Leslie died in -1382; and in the same year the countess espoused the Earl of Buchan, -better known as the “Wolf of Badenoch.” He died in 1394; and thereafter -the countess took the veil, and became abbess of the convent of Elcho.</p> - -<p>Mr. Chisholm-Batten has detected the arms of Leslie, her first husband -(on a bend three buckles), on one of the bosses of the vaulting of the -western division; while on another boss is carved a bull’s-head -caboshed, the arms of Bishop Bulloch, who occupied the see from 1420 to -1439.</p> - -<p>As the style of the architecture accords with these dates, the inference -is that the western part of the aisle was erected either by the countess -or her son, Alexander Leslie, Earl of Ross, and completed during the -episcopate of Bishop Bulloch, and that the monument to the countess was -erected by her son in the noble aisle which she had built, and in which -she, no doubt, took great pride. The death of the countess took place -before 1398. The aisle would thus date about the end of the fourteenth -or the beginning of the fifteenth century, and must be regarded as a -splendid example of Scottish architecture of that period. Possibly some -portions of the western division are older; but, if so, it has been -remodelled and vaulted at the above date. The piers next the nave -(<a href="#fig_810">Fig. 810</a>) have the peculiar feature of a square plinth (somewhat like the -small buttresses which enclose the adjoining tombs) running up the inner -side to form a support for the springing of the vaulting (<a href="#fig_810">Fig. 810</a>). -This feature has the appearance of being an addition to the piers, thus -suggesting that the aisle and its vaulting are of later date than the -nave of the cathedral. The piers are clustered, and have moulded caps -with round abaci.</p> - -<p>The monument in the western division of the aisle (see <a href="#fig_810">Fig. 810</a>) is -believed to be that of Bishop Fraser, who occupied the see from 1498 to -1507;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_400" id="page_400">{400}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_810" id="fig_810"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_400.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_400.png" width="447" height="529" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 810.</span>—Fortrose Cathedral. West End of South Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and the style of the work confirms this view. The arched canopy, with -its ogee head, and the third pointed carved work of its crockets and -finial are in good preservation. The figure of the bishop is also well -preserved. The fragments of a third tomb still exist under the arch, -between the two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_401" id="page_401">{401}</a></span> already described (see <a href="#fig_808">Fig. 808</a>). This has evidently -been a late structure, with a canopy supported on a series of arches; -but it is now so mutilated that its features cannot be distinctly made -out. It is believed to be the tomb of Bishop Cairncross (1539-45).</p> - -<p>It is thought that the western division of the nave was the chapel of -St. Boniface;<a name="FNanchor_154_154" id="FNanchor_154_154"></a><a href="#Footnote_154_154" class="fnanchor">[154]</a> for when Bishop Tulloch, about 1460, presented the -bell (which still hangs in the south turret) to the church, he dedicated -it to St. Mary and St. Boniface, probably because the chapels adjoining -the bell turret were dedicated to these saints.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_811" id="fig_811"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_401.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_401.png" width="248" height="234" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 811.</span>—Fortrose Cathedral. Piscina.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Besides the tracery of the windows and the beauty of the tombs, the -aisle is rich in details. In the south wall there is a fine piscina -(<a href="#fig_811">Fig. 811</a>), and in the north wall an ambry, with a small stone -penthouse. All the windows have label terminals, many of them finely -carved with heads.</p> - -<p>An octagonal font of remarkable design (<a href="#fig_812">Fig. 812</a>) stands against the -east wall of the aisle.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_812" id="fig_812"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_401-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_401-b.png" width="195" height="195" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 812.</span>—Fortrose Cathedral. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We have seen that the sacristy is the only part of the original building -which now remains. This is a plain rectangular structure, two stories in -height, 45 feet long by 12 feet wide internally, which stands quite -detached in the centre of the open space surrounding the site of the -cathedral. The upper floor is, with all probability, believed to have -been the chapter house; but it has<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_402" id="page_402">{402}</a></span> been rebuilt, and is now used as the -place of meeting of the Town Council. Externally the building has the -appearance of a plain modern stone erection; but internally the ground -floor preserves most of its original features. It is vaulted in six -bays, with groined vaulting; but being low, and provided with very few -small windows, the interior can only be dimly seen. The dog-tooth and -other details, however, seem to indicate first pointed work. There is a -range of arched seats, and an ambry at each side, towards the east end. -The doorway entered from the choir, in the centre of the south side; and -a staircase in the west wall led to the upper floor.</p> - -<p>Mr. Chisholm-Batten thinks that this undercroft was the chapel of St. -Nicholas, where a consistorial office was held in 1451, being more -suitable for such an assembly than the open south aisle of the nave. So -far as can now be ascertained, there were no other aisles connected with -the cathedral.</p> - -<p>The history of the cathedral subsequently to the Reformation is not well -known. Under the Regent Morton the lead was removed from the roof, and -the structure fell into disrepair. But it was partially repaired by -Bishop Lindsay in 1615; and in 1649 it was not very ruinous. It would, -therefore, appear that the tradition is probably correct which says that -the masonry of the walls was removed by Cromwell, like that of Kinloss -Abbey, for the construction of his citadel at Inverness.</p> - -<h3>CROSRAGUEL ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Ayrshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This monastery, whose abbots once possessed regal sway over nearly the -whole of Carrick, now stands a solitary deserted ruin in a small -sequestered valley, about two miles from Maybole, on the road leading by -Kirkoswald to Girvan. The monastic buildings, although much ruined, are -still of considerable extent, and comprise, besides the church, more -remains of ecclesiastical and domestic structures than are usual in our -Scottish religious establishments. This has probably arisen from the -quiet and secluded nature of the site, as well as from the protection -afforded by the powerful Earls of Carrick.</p> - -<p>The chartulary of the abbey is lost, but many of the scattered charters -have been collected and printed by the Ayrshire and Galloway -Archæological Association, and edited by Mr. F. C. Hunter Blair, 1886. -From these and the introductory chapter most of the following historical -notes are gleaned.</p> - -<p>The abbey was founded by Duncan, Earl of Carrick, in the end of the -twelfth century. By him lands and churches were granted to the Abbey of -Paisley, on condition that the monks should found a monastery in his -province of Carrick, after their own Order of Cluny, to which the said<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_403" id="page_403">{403}</a></span> -endowments should be handed over. These conditions were evaded by the -monks of Paisley, who contented themselves with erecting a cell at -Crosraguel, and kept the rest of the revenue to themselves. Such conduct -was naturally complained of by the earl, and it was decided by William -de Bondington, Bishop of Glasgow, that a monastery should be forthwith -erected at Crosraguel. Earl Duncan is said to have superintended the -erection of the structure, in which case it must have been in progress -between 1244, the date of the bishop’s decision, and 1250, when the earl -died. In 1265 the Pope confirmed the “Scriptum de Crosragmol” of Bishop -Bondington.</p> - -<p>Additional grants were made to the abbey by Earl Nigel, the successor of -the founder. The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The monks were -of the Order of Cluny, in France. This order was first introduced into -England at Wenlock, in Shropshire, whence monks were brought to Paisley -Abbey by Walter, first Steward of Scotland. The ecclesiastics of that -convent, being the superiors of Crosraguel, naturally colonised it with -monks of their own order of Cluniacs.</p> - -<p>During the fourteenth century the abbey is much associated with the -history of the Bruces. The romantic marriage of the father of King -Robert to the Countess of Carrick established the family in the earldom. -The countess and her husband were benefactors of the abbey, and their -neighbouring Castle of Turnberry became a protection to the monks.</p> - -<p>During Edward’s invasion, in 1296, Henry de Percy was appointed Sheriff -of Ayr. In 1306 he held Turnberry Castle, and a letter, dated by him -from Crosraguel, asking for two engines of war to be sent to him, shows -that siege operations were in contemplation.</p> - -<p>During this disturbed period of Scottish history it seems probable that -this abbey, like many other similar institutions throughout the country, -suffered from the effects of war. The buildings show that the original -structure of the monastery has been demolished, and that new edifices -were erected in the fifteenth century; and it is supposed that this -reconstruction was rendered necessary by the damage caused during the -English invasion. When the kingdom became settled, after the War of -Independence, King Robert granted a charter to the abbey, confirming the -endowments of Earl Duncan; and in 1329-30, gifts from the royal purse, -for the repair of the monastery, are noted in the Exchequer Rolls. The -king was lavish in benefactions to the abbey. In 1324 he presented it -with lands, and, as a mark of special favour, he erected the domains of -the abbey into a barony. Shortly after the accession of David <small>II.</small> the -abbot received the king’s penny for three years (amounting to £100, 1s. -10d.) to assist him in the repair of the buildings.</p> - -<p>Under the Stewart kings Crosraguel still continued to receive the royal -favour. In 1374 Robert <small>II.</small> confirmed the Crown charters of Robert <small>I.</small>; -and in 1404 the great Crosraguel charter was granted by Robert <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_404" id="page_404">{404}</a></span><small>III.</small> -confirming all the abbey lands and property to be held for ever in free -regality. By this charter the abbot was raised into the position of an -absolute sovereign over all the abbey possessions, which comprised -nearly the whole of the southern division of Ayrshire. The abbey -continued to occupy a high position during the fifteenth century. The -abbot was in favour at Court, and was employed on special missions and -diplomatic services.</p> - -<p>In 1460 the Abbot Colin, a man of some eminence, was elected. He devoted -much care to the church and buildings, which he found in a dilapidated -condition, and is believed to have built the existing chapter house. He -died in 1491.</p> - -<p>Abbot David obtained a confirmation of the special rights of the abbey -from the Archbishop of Glasgow, and, in 1515, procured a special -dispensation from inspection by the Archbishop of St. Andrews, who was -delegated by the Pope to visit every monastery in Scotland, and to -punish the “excess and enormity of the brethren dwelling therein.”</p> - -<p>During the forty years prior to the Reformation the abbey enjoyed the -protection of the Earl of Carrick, two eminent members of the family -being about that time abbots in succession to each other. At this period -the right of appointment to vacant benefices was gradually passing into -the hands of the Crown, and by 1550 that change was completed.</p> - -<p>In those troublous times the Church was felt to be in danger, and Abbot -William Kennedy, who had acted as guardian to the young Earl Cassilis, -who was then abroad, wrote to him to return to Scotland to look after -the interests of the abbey. At the same time the Archbishop of Glasgow -sent all his possessions to Crosraguel, as to a place of safety. These -consisted of embroidered vestments, gold and silver plate, jewels, and a -library of books of great value.</p> - -<p>Abbot William was succeeded by his nephew, Quintin Kennedy (1547-64), an -ardent champion of the Church, whose contest with Knox at Maybole in -1562 is well known. It is thought that he was the first abbot to occupy -the abbots’ tower, a fortified pele which stands at the south-east -corner of the grounds. Gilbert M‘Brayar, one of the monks, is said to -have made many “sumptuous additions” to the monastery. These were -probably domestic structures in the cloister, whose ruins are still -traceable.</p> - -<p>In 1561 an Act was passed by the Privy Council suppressing “Idolatori -and all monumentis thairof,” and Arran, Glencairn, and Argyle were -despatched to the West to carry the Act into execution. Amongst the -other demolitions executed by them was the casting down of part of -Crosraguel.</p> - -<p>Ten years before the Reformation leases of church lands were frequently -granted to nobles and other powerful individuals who were able to -protect them. Thus, in 1564, the whole benefice of Crosraguel was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_405" id="page_405">{405}</a></span> -leased to the Earl of Cassillis for 700 marks (£466, 13s. 4d.) Under his -protection the monks continued to occupy the monastery till 1592, -probably later than any other abbey in Scotland.</p> - -<p>In 1570 occurred the famous “roasting of the abbot.” The Earl of -Cassillis had resolved to get the whole property of the abbey into his -hands, and endeavoured, by torturing Allan Stewart, the abbot, to force -him to surrender the titles of the lands of the abbey, and he thus -succeeded, in consideration of a large sum, in becoming sole proprietor -of the regality. The abbot survived, but was maimed for life. He -disposed of every shred of the monastic property, and died in 1587. The -annexation to the Crown took place the same year. The possessions had -been gradually disposed of by Queen Mary and her son to numerous -retainers. George Buchanan received a pension out of the revenues, and -King James intended to restore the abbey as a residence for his son -Henry.</p> - -<p>In 1617 the whole benefice was annexed to the Bishopric of Dunblane, in -order to provide a suitable support for the bishop. On the overthrow of -Episcopacy, in 1689, the revenues were annexed to the Crown; and now the -sole relic of the great regality of Crosraguel is the small plot of -ground enclosing the ruins.</p> - -<p>The abbey buildings (<a href="#fig_813">Fig. 813</a>) have been of considerable extent, and -still comprise, besides the remains of the church and cloisters, with -the usual ecclesiastical buildings surrounding them, an outer court to -the south-west, with a picturesque gatehouse, pigeon-house, and other -domestic structures. There was also an eastern courtyard, which -contained the abbot’s hall, and the adjoining tower or keep, the -infirmary, &c. The whole precincts were enclosed with a high wall, which -included an extensive garden. The small burn which flows along the south -side is believed to have fed fish-ponds in the neighbourhood. The church -(<a href="#fig_813">Fig. 813</a>) is a simple oblong structure, consisting of choir and nave, -without aisles and without transepts. It would appear, however, from -excavations carried out by the Ayrshire and Galloway Archæological -Association, that the original church of the thirteenth century -contained a north and south transept, some traces of the foundations of -which were disclosed. A few other relics of this earlier church are -observable in the base of the western part of the nave, in traces of the -jambs of the western doorway and the jambs of the north doorway of the -nave; but the remainder of the church has been entirely rebuilt, chiefly -on the old foundations.</p> - -<p>It is thought by Mr. Morris, who illustrates and describes the abbey in -the publication of the above Association, that part of the older -building is traceable in the wall between the choir and the sacristy, -where vaulting shafts exist on the sacristy side in such a position as -not to be available in the present structure (<a href="#fig_814">Fig. 814</a>). From this fact -he forms the deduction that these shafts and the wall they are attached -to are part of the original church. He is further of opinion that the -part of the ancient church<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_406" id="page_406">{406}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_813" id="fig_813"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_406.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_406.png" width="641" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 813.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_407" id="page_407">{407}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_814" id="fig_814"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_407.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_407.png" width="433" height="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 814.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Sacristy, looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">which he supposes has survived at this point formed the model on which -the restored building was designed. From the character of the design,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_408" id="page_408">{408}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_815" id="fig_815"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_408.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_408.png" width="632" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 815.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Interior of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_409" id="page_409">{409}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">this seems very doubtful. The three shafts referred to doubtless -indicate a change in the design at the date of the restoration in the -fifteenth century. The choir appears to have been erected, and a chapter -house contemplated (if not actually carried out) immediately to the -south of it, in the position formerly occupied by the south transept. -The three shafts were apparently erected at that time (say before 1450). -The bases of the shafts correspond in design with the bases of the -choir, and are clearly fifteenth century work. The walls of the chapter -house (afterwards changed into the sacristy) were evidently erected at -this time, as the usual stone seat of the chapter house still runs round -two of the sides. At a later date (towards the end of the fifteenth -century) a new range of buildings was erected on the east side of the -cloister. These consisted of a new chapter house, while that first -erected was converted into the sacristy. The new range was of less width -than the chapter house originally contemplated, and, therefore, new -vaulting shafts, spaced so as to suit the vaulting of the new width, -were introduced; and three of the old vaulting shafts were allowed to -remain, although two of them were no longer of use.</p> - -<p>The architecture of the interior of the choir (<a href="#fig_815">Fig. 815</a>) is peculiar, -and clearly indicates a structure of the fifteenth century. The -three-sided eastern apse is characteristic of the fifteenth century, and -is among the earliest examples of that form then introduced into -Scotland. Crosraguel obtained its great charter in 1404, and was, no -doubt, then in a very flourishing condition; and it seems likely that -the church was rebuilt soon after that period. The style of the -architecture corresponds with other buildings of that date in Scotland. -The windows, which have been filled with tracery (now, unfortunately, -all destroyed), show, in their remaining jambs, shafts, and arch -mouldings (especially in the apse), a character resembling Scottish -decorated work. The triple wall shafts which divide the bays are carried -down to decorated bases in the sanctuary only, the others being stopped -on a corbel at the level of the central string course (see <a href="#fig_815">Fig. 815</a>). -The sedilia (<a href="#fig_816">Fig. 816</a>) and piscina of the choir (see <a href="#fig_815">Fig. 815</a>) are also -beautiful specimens of the decorated style. The buttresses of the choir -and apse (<a href="#fig_817">Fig. 817</a>) are simple, and of an early type. The nave -(<a href="#fig_818">Fig. 818</a>) has windows on the north side only. Here, as already observed, a -few traces of the original church are found in the early forms of the -base mouldings and the shafts of the north doorway. The arch supported -by these shafts, and forming the upper part of the doorway, is of very -inferior design, and is evidently a very late restoration. The shafts -are sloped off at top, so as to fit a straight impost. The buttresses -also show relics of older work. One of the nave windows is filled with -tracery; but it is of peculiar design, having been constructed in -connection with the erection of a monument to Egidia Blair, Lady Row, a -benefactress of the abbey, who died in 1530. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_410" id="page_410">{410}</a></span> engraved recumbent -stone over her grave, bearing her arms and name, still exists; but -scarcely a trace of the monument survives.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_816" id="fig_816"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_410.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_410.png" width="460" height="460" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 816.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Sedilia.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The nave is divided from the choir by a wall, which has been erected in -the sixteenth century (the upper part is seen in <a href="#fig_819">Fig. 819</a>), probably -when the monks required protection, or owing to their number having -become diminished, when so large a church was unnecessary. This central -wall partly blocks up one of the nave windows, thus showing that it was -an afterthought. It seems, however, to have been substituted for an -older wall, which may have contained an arch between the nave and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_411" id="page_411">{411}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_817" id="fig_817"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_411.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_411.png" width="610" height="378" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 817.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Choir and Apse, from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_412" id="page_412">{412}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_818" id="fig_818"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_412.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_412.png" width="661" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 818.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_413" id="page_413">{413}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_819" id="fig_819"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_413.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_413.png" width="608" height="398" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 819.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Cloister, looking -North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_414" id="page_414">{414}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">choir. The nave, thus separated from the choir, was known as St. Mary’s -or the Virgin’s Aisle. The wall contained a wheel staircase, and is -crowned with a good double belfry, surmounted by a well-carved cross -(<a href="#fig_820">Fig. 820</a>), containing hearts in the centre, and having each arm cut -into the form of a cross. This may possibly be in imitation of the -crossleted crosses of the Kennedy arms. The pointed doorway from the -nave to the choir is of good, simple design, and has been defended with -a strong sliding bar, the slot in the wall for which still exists.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_820" id="fig_820"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_414.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_414.png" width="47" height="100" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 820.</span></p> - -<p>Crosraguel<br /> Abbey.</p> - -<p>Cross on Belfry.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The sacristy entered from the south side of the choir by a door having a -semi-elliptic arch, and mouldings and bases corresponding with those of -the choir (see <a href="#fig_815">Fig. 815</a>). This doorway also led to a wheel stair, which -conducted to the scriptorium and library on the upper floor, and, -through them, to the dormitory. The ancient south transept was wider -than the present sacristy which occupies its site, as was disclosed by -the excavations above mentioned. The sacristy and the chapter house -adjoining are the best preserved parts of the edifice. They are both -elegantly vaulted, and lighted with windows, the tracery of which is -partly preserved (<a href="#fig_821">Fig. 821</a>). The corbels (<a href="#fig_822">Fig. 822</a>) which carry the ribs -of the sacristy vaults are carved in a quaint and rather debased style, -and point to a late date. The vaulting of the sacristy (see <a href="#fig_814">Fig. 814</a>) is -peculiar, the ribs being arranged in the sexpartite form. The apartment -is considerably longer than it is wide; and the usual method of vaulting -such an apartment would be to divide it into two bays, each bay having -the usual cross ribs; but here the whole is vaulted in one bay, having -six ribs. This arrangement makes the axes of the side vaults oblique, -and produces the effect of twisting in the four side spaces of the -vaults towards the centre. The vaulting here, being wider than that of -the chapter house, rises higher, and thus rendered the floor of the -scriptorium above it higher than that of the library over the chapter -house, and necessitated some steps in the passages from the dormitory to -the church. The opening to the sacristy from the choir is recent, this -position having formerly been occupied by an altar platform, believed to -have been erected in honour of Robert <small>III.</small> in 1404. The position of the -high altar is still distinctly marked, being placed against a detached -wall carried across the apse, and provided with a small door for access -to the space behind. The three steps leading up to the east end are also -discoverable, and each step is beaded on the edge (see <a href="#fig_815">Fig. 815</a>). A -plain doorway, with a drop arch, leads from the south-west angle of the -choir to the east walk of the cloister (see <a href="#fig_819">Fig. 819</a>). Only the -foundations of the outer wall of the cloister walks are now traceable. -This, no doubt, carried pillars and arches (or wooden posts), on which -the wooden roof of the cloister walks rested. There may have been stone -piers<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_415" id="page_415">{415}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_821" id="fig_821"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_415.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_415.png" width="571" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 821.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. East Side of Chapter House -and Sacristy.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_416" id="page_416">{416}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_822" id="fig_822"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_416.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_416.png" width="407" height="660" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 822.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Corbels in Sacristy.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_417" id="page_417">{417}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">at the angles and at intervals; the springing of a diagonal arch -survives in the north-west angle. A well exists in the centre of the -cloister garth, with stone steps leading down to it. The chapter house -enters by a doorway only, without side windows, from the east alley (see -<a href="#fig_819">Fig. 819</a>). The jambs and pointed arch are moulded, but there are no -caps. The chapter house is square, and has a central pillar, which -carries fine vaulting (<a href="#fig_823">Fig. 823</a>). The vaulting is divided into four -square bays, each with cross ribs, resting on the central pillar and on -responds against the walls, which have bases set on the stone bench. The -bosses have been carved with coats of arms, now obliterated. One of them -has a mitre; another shows indications of an apsidal building. The -abbot’s seat occupies the centre of the east side, between the two -windows; and a stone bench is carried round the walls.</p> - -<p>The upper floor, which still survives, above the chapter house and -sacristy (see <a href="#fig_819">Figs. 819</a> and <a href="#fig_820">820</a>) contained the scriptorium and library, -the latter having had a good mullioned window, overlooking the cloister, -now nearly destroyed. Following the ruins which continue the east side -of the cloister southwards, we come first to a vaulted chamber, which -may have been a parlour; then to the slype leading to the eastern garth, -which has a stone bench on each side, and is covered with a segmental -barrel vault. Beyond this are vaulted ruins of an indeterminate -character. On the south side of the cloister garth are the refectory and -part of the buttery, with a hatch which led from the one to the other. -Between these apartments a wide scale staircase formed the day access to -the dormitories above. This range of buildings is evidently of late -date, and may have been the work of Abbot Gilbert M‘Brayar, above -referred to. The refectory has been covered with a barrel vault, and had -a fireplace in the north wall. The windows in the south wall are low, -horizontal openings. The west side of the cloister is believed to have -contained a large common room, but it is now much ruined; the pointed -doorway at the north end, however, still remains.</p> - -<p>The eastern courtyard is triangular in form. The ruin on the east side -is probably a fragment of the infirmary. On the south side is a range of -ruined vaults, over which was probably the abbot’s hall. At the -south-east angle stand the ruins of what was the abbot’s keep, or place -of strength, erected apparently in the sixteenth century. It is of the -ordinary form of the lay keeps of the period, having thick walls, with -chambers formed in their thickness and a corbelled parapet for defence. -It no doubt communicated with the abbot’s hall adjoining. It is built -over the stream which bounds the convent on the south, and passes under -the lower story, where it had an archway, grated at each end. The -principal floor contains a good fireplace, with ambry adjoining, and a -small stair leading to the water below. The upper floors contained the -usual bedrooms, one of which still shows the remains of a carved -fireplace. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_418" id="page_418">{418}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_823" id="fig_823"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_418.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_418.png" width="448" height="585" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 823.</span>—Crosraguel Abbey. Chapter House, looking -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_419" id="page_419">{419}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">north and east walls are demolished. The south and west walls are quite -plain. Some of the corbels of the parapet, however, still survive.</p> - -<p>The south-west courtyard is of considerable extent, and contained a -number of domestic offices, such as bakehouse, brewhouse, &c. A -picturesque gatehouse gives entrance to the monastery through this -courtyard, and strangers’ apartments are provided in the upper -floors.<a name="FNanchor_155_155" id="FNanchor_155_155"></a><a href="#Footnote_155_155" class="fnanchor">[155]</a> The pigeon house is also a well preserved example of that -common class of structure.</p> - -<p>The ruins seem for a long period to have formed a convenient quarry for -the district, but they were put in good order about fifty years ago by -the Kilkerran family, and are now well preserved and cared for.</p> - -<h3>ST. GILES’ COLLEGIATE CHURCH,<a name="FNanchor_156_156" id="FNanchor_156_156"></a><a href="#Footnote_156_156" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> <span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Church of St. Giles occupies the site of the original parish church -of Edinburgh. It stands in a conspicuous situation in the centre of the -Old Town, on a comparatively level piece of ground (probably an ancient -sea margin), which occurs in the general slope extending from the Castle -to Holyrood. In the ninth century, when Lothian formed part of -Northumbria, the Church of Edinburgh is mentioned as belonging to the -diocese of Lindisfarne.</p> - -<p>About 1120 a new church was erected by Alexander <small>I.</small>, of which some -fragments remained till the end of last century. This church is -frequently referred to in subsequent reigns. Notice of it occurs under -Alexander <small>II.</small>, in the early part of the thirteenth century; in 1319, it -is mentioned in an Act of Robert <small>I.</small>; and in 1359, under David <small>II.</small>, a -gift of lands is confirmed to it.</p> - -<p>The earliest of these notices doubtless referred to the Norman church of -the twelfth century, of which not a fragment now remains <i>in situ</i>; but -some detached Norman carved stones, such as caps, have been found in -excavations in the interior. The edifice appears to have been rebuilt -about the time of David <small>II.</small></p> - -<p>In the constant wars with England Edinburgh naturally suffered much. It -was damaged by Edward <small>II.</small> in 1322, when Holyrood Abbey was also spoiled. -Under Edward <small>III.</small> the country was laid waste in 1335, when the capital -was again injured. This raid, having occurred in February, was -afterwards known as the “burnt Candlemas,” from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_420" id="page_420">{420}</a></span> conflagrations -raised during its continuance. A reconstruction of the edifice was -probably required after these destructive harryings, and this appears to -have been carried out during the fourteenth century. But shortly -afterwards a most complete devastation of the town and all its buildings -was occasioned by Richard <small>II.</small> during his invasion in 1385. He then -occupied Edinburgh for five days, and, on his departure, laid the town -and the parish church in ashes.</p> - -<p>A great effort was made by the citizens on this occasion, along with -assistance from the Crown, to repair the disaster to their church. From -this period the history of the structure as it now exists may be said to -date.</p> - -<p>We have no account of the condition of the edifice immediately before -its destruction in 1385, but it must (as above mentioned) have been to a -large extent rebuilt before that time.</p> - -<p>It is said that during the restoration which took place in 1870-80,<a name="FNanchor_157_157" id="FNanchor_157_157"></a><a href="#Footnote_157_157" class="fnanchor">[157]</a> -traces of fire were observed on the pillars of the choir, and it is -inferred that these pillars must have existed before the burning caused -by Richard <small>II.</small> This view is confirmed by the fact that, after 1387, -when, doubtless, the town authorities were doing all they could to -complete the restoration of St. Giles’, they entered into a contract -with certain masons to erect five chapels along the south side of the -nave, having pillars and vaulted roofs, covered with dressed stone -slabs<a name="FNanchor_158_158" id="FNanchor_158_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_158_158" class="fnanchor">[158]</a> These chapels still exist, and the wall rib of the vaulting -is yet visible on the south side of the arcade, next the south aisle; -but the vault and stone roof have been removed, and a plaster ceiling of -imitation vaulting substituted. The above contract indicates that the -walls of the nave then existed.</p> - -<p>We must, therefore, assume that the church had been rebuilt previous to -the destruction of 1385, and that the above contract was an addition to -the building connected with its restoration two years after the fire. -Although, doubtless, much injured by the conflagration, the walls and -pillars of the church seem to have escaped total destruction. The style -of the architecture would lead to the same view; the octagonal pillars -of the choir, with their moulded caps, being most probably of the -fourteenth century.</p> - -<p>The church, as restored and added to after 1387, would then consist -(<a href="#fig_824">Fig. 824</a>)<a name="FNanchor_159_159" id="FNanchor_159_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_159_159" class="fnanchor">[159]</a> of a choir of four bays, with side aisles; a nave of -five bays, also with side aisles; a central crossing, north and south -transepts, and the five chapels just added south of the nave. A large -open porch, to the south of the central one of those chapels, was also -erected along with them. It had a finely groined vault in the roof, and -over it was a small chamber,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_421" id="page_421">{421}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_824" id="fig_824"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_421.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_421.png" width="648" height="428" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 824.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_422" id="page_422">{422}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">lighted by a picturesque oriel window, supported on a corbel, carved -with an angel, displaying the city arms (<a href="#fig_825">Fig. 825</a>).<a name="FNanchor_160_160" id="FNanchor_160_160"></a><a href="#Footnote_160_160" class="fnanchor">[160]</a> The upper -story, which is supposed to have been the revestry, was reached by a -bold turret stair on the west side of the south porch.</p> - -<p>The whole of the main divisions of the structure were vaulted; but the -vault of the central aisles was low, being little higher than that of -the side aisles. The massive octagonal piers of the crossing appear to -have been raised about this period. The traces of the caps, which were -cut off, are visible at a lower level (<a href="#fig_826">Fig. 826</a>), and the few courses of -ashlar work above them, with the new caps at the heightened level, may -be traced as additions (<a href="#fig_827">Fig. 827</a>). The vaulting of the crossing, with -its central opening, was, doubtless, executed during the restoration of -about 1400.</p> - -<p>The ancient Norman porch, which formed the north entrance to the nave, -was the only part of the twelfth century structure then preserved, and a -small chamber was erected above it, with a narrow turnpike stair leading -to it. The restoration seems to have been in progress for a considerable -length of time. Donations from the Crown towards it continued to be -given till 1413. It was probably completed about 1416.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_825" id="fig_825"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_422.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_422.png" width="238" height="494" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 825.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church.</p> - -<p>Oriel originally over South Porch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Shortly after the erection of the five chapels on the south side of the -nave, another chapel was built on the north side of the nave, to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_423" id="page_423">{423}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_826" id="fig_826"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_423.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_423.png" width="439" height="577" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 826.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. South Piers of -Crossing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">west of the old Norman doorway. This chapel, called the Albany aisle -(<a href="#fig_828">Fig. 828</a>), is 32 feet long by 12 feet in width. It opens from the nave<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_424" id="page_424">{424}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_827" id="fig_827"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_424.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_424.png" width="458" height="617" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 827.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. North Piers of -Crossing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_425" id="page_425">{425}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_828" id="fig_828"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_425.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_425.png" width="453" height="572" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig 828.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The Albany -Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">with two arches, which rest on a central pillar, and the roof is covered -with groined vaulting in two bays. The central pillar and the two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_426" id="page_426">{426}</a></span> -responds are moulded, and have caps and bases, all in the same style as -those of the south chapels. The cap of the central pillar contains two -shields, the arms on which not only give a clue to the date of the -chapel, but also recall a dark passage in Scottish history. One of these -shields (that on the south) bears the arms of Robert, Duke of Albany, -the second son of Robert <small>II.</small> (the Scottish lion quartered with the fesse -chequé for Stewart); the other, or north shield, bears the well-known -Douglas arms, being those of Archibald, Fourth Earl of Douglas. These -two noblemen were both implicated in the death of David, Duke of -Rothesay, who, in 1401, was starved to death at Falkland Palace; and it -is believed that this chapel was erected by them as a good work in -expiation of their horrid crime, or, at least, in order to propitiate -the clergy. The architecture of the chapel is light and elegant, and the -vaulting is enriched with bosses, one of which contains the monogram of -the Blessed Virgin.</p> - -<p>Two other chapels were added on the north side of the nave, to the east -of the Norman doorway, probably about this period. The eastern of these -chapels was dedicated to St. Eloi.</p> - -<p>The vaulting of the north aisle of the nave was almost necessarily -rebuilt at the time when the north chapels were erected.</p> - -<p>About half a century after the above restoration, great extensions and -improvements were undertaken. It is believed, from the internal evidence -of the architecture, that the extensions of St. Giles’ were carried out -under the auspices of Queen Mary of Gueldres, by whom also Trinity -College Church, Edinburgh, was founded in 1462.</p> - -<p>During the fifteenth century St. Giles’ received many endowments, -chiefly from merchants of Edinburgh, and increased considerably in -wealth, so that funds would thus be forthcoming for the new work. Money -was also contributed by the Town Council, who raised it by fines and -otherwise.</p> - -<p>The extensions undertaken at this time consisted of (1) the lengthening -of the choir by one bay; (2) the heightening of the central aisle of the -choir and vaulting it anew, together with the introduction of a new -clerestory; (3) the lengthening of the transepts.</p> - -<p>It is thus apparent that the edifice was to a great extent -remodelled—the north and south aisles of the choir, and the central and -recently renewed side aisles and chapels of the nave, being the only -portions left untouched. The south aisle of the nave had (as above -mentioned) been remodelled some fifty years before, when the five -chapels were added to the south of it. The south wall of the south aisle -had then been removed, and its place supplied by the pillars which -connected it with the five added chapels (<a href="#fig_829">Fig. 829</a>); while at the same -time both aisle and chapels had been vaulted with finely groined vaults, -having numerous moulded ribs springing from corbels inserted above the -capitals.</p> - -<p>1. The first of the alterations of about 1460, above mentioned, is the -lengthening of the choir by one bay. The original east wall, no doubt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_427" id="page_427">{427}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_829" id="fig_829"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_427.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_427.png" width="449" height="546" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 829.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. South Aisle of -Nave and South Chapels.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">stood where the two eastern free pillars now stand; and, the wall having -to be removed, the two new pillars (<a href="#fig_830">Fig. 830</a>) were substituted for it. -These pillars and the two responds against the east wall tell a very -remark-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_428" id="page_428">{428}</a></span>able</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_830" id="fig_830"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_428.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_428.png" width="430" height="632" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 830.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_429" id="page_429">{429}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_831" id="fig_831"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_429.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_429.png" width="410" height="449" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 831.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The East Pillar, -South Side of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and interesting story, and prove beyond doubt the date of the -work. Each capital contains four shields (<a href="#fig_831">Fig. 831</a>), which are explained -by Dr. Laing in the following manner:—The north or, as it is commonly -called, the king’s pillar contains in its sculptured cap a series of -heraldic emblems of special significance. The shield facing the east -contains the royal arms (<a href="#fig_832">Fig. 832</a>), with a label of three points, which, -no doubt, denotes the infant heir to the throne, James <small>III.</small> The shield -facing the west is also carved with the royal lion rampant, with its -double tressure; but the top of the shield is unfinished. This is -probably the arms of James <small>II.</small> The shield<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_430" id="page_430">{430}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_832" id="fig_832"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_430-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_430-a.png" width="240" height="272" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 832.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. <br />Shield bearing -the Royal Arms.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_833" id="fig_833"></a><a name="fig_834" id="fig_834"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_430-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_430-b.png" width="312" height="126" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 833.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church.<br /> Shield bearing -Arms of Bishop Kennedy.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 834.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. <br />Shield bearing -Arms of Nicholas de Otterburn. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">facing the north contains the arms of Mary of Gueldres, impaled with the -royal arms. This also is unfinished on the top. The shield facing the -south has the three fleurs-de-lys for France, the old ally of Scotland. -These shields clearly connect the pillar with Mary of Gueldres and her -husband, James <small>II.</small>, and their son, James <small>III.</small> The marriage of the king -and queen took place in 1449, and James <small>III.</small> was born in 1453. His -father was killed at the siege of Roxburgh Castle in 1460, and Mary of -Gueldres died in 1463. The work was, therefore, probably executed -between 1453 and 1463. The unfinished condition of the west and north -shields may, perhaps, point to a date shortly after the king’s death and -before that of Mary of Gueldres. The heraldic devices on the other -pillars and responds are those of distinguished men of the time. On the -pillar on the south side of the choir, the shield facing the east bears -three unicorns’ heads (see <a href="#fig_831">Fig. 831</a>), the arms of William Preston of -Gorton, who bestowed (as we shall see) a great gift on the church. The -shield on the west bears the arms of Bishop Kennedy (<a href="#fig_833">Fig. 833</a>), a -chevron between three crosses crossleted, surrounded by a double -tressure. This prelate, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_431" id="page_431">{431}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_835" id="fig_835"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_431.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_431.png" width="315" height="627" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 835.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. East Pillar of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_432" id="page_432">{432}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_836" id="fig_836"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_432.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_432.png" width="441" height="549" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 836.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The Crossing, -from the Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">was a grandson of Robert <small>III.</small>, was Bishop of St. Andrews, and one of the -most eminent men of the period. The shield on the north (<a href="#fig_834">Fig. 834</a>) bears -the arms of Nicholas de Otterburn, who was Vicar of Edin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_433" id="page_433">{433}</a></span>burgh in 1455, -and who had been sent to France in 1448 in connection with the selection -of Mary of Gueldres as the bride of James <small>II.</small> The south shield bears a -castle, being the emblem of the city (see <a href="#fig_831">Fig. 831</a>).</p> - -<p>The north respond contains the arms (three cranes gorged) of Thomas -Cranstoun, Chief Magistrate of Edinburgh in 1439 and also in 1454. As -formerly, the good town which he represented would aid in the -restoration.</p> - -<p>The south respond bears the arms of Napier of Merchiston, Provost of -Edinburgh, 1457—viz., a saltier engrailed, cantoned with four roses.</p> - -<p>These new pillars and responds (<a href="#fig_835">Fig. 835</a>) differ entirely from the older -plain octagonal ones. They are of a form which became very common in -Scotland after this time. The pillars are moulded, rather than -clustered, and contain a variety of mouldings instead of shafts. These -rise from a base which is moulded and ornamented with carvings, and is -set on one or two high plinths. The pillar is crowned with a -richly-moulded capital, the lower or bed mould being carved with -cherubs’ heads, fitted into the re-entering angles of the pier, while -the upper mouldings run in straight lines, and include several of the -members of the piers in one stretch.</p> - -<p>The mouldings of the main arches, which spring from these piers, are -also richer than the plain splays of the older arches.</p> - -<p>2. The heightening of the choir and the introduction of a new clerestory -were also carried out shortly after the middle of the fifteenth century. -The height of the former vault of the choir is shown by the vault of the -crossing (<a href="#fig_836">Fig. 836</a>), which it doubtless resembled, and which was not -altered at this time. The former position of the vault of the choir is -also indicated by portions of the groins, which have only been partly -cut away, and which are still visible, springing directly from the caps -of the choir piers at the previous low level (see <a href="#fig_830">Fig. 830</a>). The ancient -vault of the choir, springing, as it did, directly from the caps of the -main piers, would only afford room under the wall rib for small -clerestory windows. Traces of several similar small windows may still be -observed over the main arcade on the south side of the nave, where they -have been built up at some period—perhaps during the alterations in -1829; but the rybats and arches are still traceable. The outline of the -old roof may also be observed against the east and west walls of the -tower (see <a href="#fig_836">Fig. 836</a>), the raglet and a stepped string course above it -being yet preserved, and being specially apparent on the east side next -the choir.</p> - -<p>The condition of the walls where they have been heightened for the -clerestory also indicates that some of the old vaulting has been cut -off, and new masonry substituted. The clerestory is carried up so as to -admit of good windows, each with arched head, and divided into two -lights by a central mullion (see <a href="#fig_830">Fig. 830</a>). The traceried heads have -drop arches on the inside. The new vaulting is of simple, but elegant, -design. The ribs<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_434" id="page_434">{434}</a></span> of the vault are moulded, and are provided, besides -the main cross ribs, with ridge ribs and intermediate ribs; and the -junctions are all ornamented with large and finely-carved bosses, of -which some examples are given (<a href="#fig_837">Figs. 837</a> and <a href="#fig_838">838</a>). The curved panels of -the vaults are arranged so as to be either parallel or at right angles -to the side walls, so that the joints of the stones composing the -different vaulting surfaces are all set at right angles to one another, -being the plan usually adopted in England, but not in France. The ribs -of the vaults spring from the carved caps (<a href="#fig_839">Fig. 839</a>) of short and light -vaulting shafts, inserted in the side walls and resting on corbels, -considerably above the caps of the main piers (see <a href="#fig_830">Fig. 830</a>). The -insertion of these shafts in the old masonry is plainly visible.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_837" id="fig_837"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_434.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_434.png" width="291" height="591" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 837.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Bosses in -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The beauty of the vaulting of the central aisle is particularly -noticeable when contrasted with that of the side aisles. The eastern or -extended bay of the choir aisles, being new, has been vaulted with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_435" id="page_435">{435}</a></span> -groined vaulting in the same manner as the central aisle, but the old -portions of the aisles are vaulted with what nearly approaches to a -domical form (<a href="#fig_840">Fig. 840</a>). Each bay has the usual transverse and diagonal -ribs, but the surfaces of the vault are domed up above the wall rib at -the side walls, so that the height to which the windows may be carried -is greatly reduced from what it might be with groined vaults, similar to -those of the central aisle. The difference of this style of vaulting -from the true groined vaulting used in the eastern compartment is most -marked, and its effect on the height of the windows is distinctly -observable in the different divisions of the aisles.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_838" id="fig_838"></a><a name="fig_839" id="fig_839"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_435.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_435.png" width="376" height="305" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 838.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church.<br /> Boss in Choir.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 839.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church.<br /> Cap of Vaulting -Shaft in Choir. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The vaulting of the nave remained at this time unaltered at its -comparatively low level, and over the vault of the central aisle there -existed an attic story, which formed the house of the bell-ringer, and -contained several rooms. The vaulting of the aisles of the nave (as -above mentioned) had already been altered, and several chapels had been -extended northwards from the north aisle. These projected beyond the old -Norman porch, and thus placed it in a recess. The central crossing, with -its vault, was left unaltered, and still remains in the same position, -with its vaulting at the level it was raised to about 1400. It thus -forms a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_436" id="page_436">{436}</a></span> break between the nave and choir, in both of which the vault -has been raised (see <a href="#fig_836">Fig. 836</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_840" id="fig_840"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_436.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_436.png" width="416" height="557" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 840.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. South Aisle of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>3. The transepts were extended, their original length being marked by -breaks in the roof, where the vaulting terminates. The extension is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_437" id="page_437">{437}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_841" id="fig_841"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_437.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_437.png" width="437" height="578" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 841.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Junction of -Vault of South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_438" id="page_438">{438}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">specially observable in the vaulting, the vaults of the transept having -to be carried on arches which rest on corbels, inserted in the arches of -the aisles, in an awkward manner (see <a href="#fig_829">Fig. 829</a> and <a href="#fig_841">Fig. 841</a>). The east -window of the north transept, which had been long obscured by a -structure built against it, was recently discovered and opened up. It is -of good, but late, decorated work (<a href="#fig_842">Fig. 842</a>), and probably gives an idea -of the mullions which, no doubt, formerly existed in the windows of the -nave and choir, but which have been removed and traceries of 1829 -substituted. The details of this window, as shown in Fig. 842, are the -only original window details now remaining in the church. The window is -of three lights, with an arched transom ornamented with battlements, -like some windows at Melrose. In the interior very elaborate niches were -found, with ornamental canopies, which have been unfortunately much -destroyed. Over the windows, on the outside, there were in position two -corbels, supporting the wall-head parapet. As these would have been -concealed by the vaulting of the Chambers aisle (which was recently -inserted), they were built into the piers at the arch springers of the -entrance to that aisle. Amongst the rubbish cleared out in opening up -this window, a rude Norman capital was found built into the wall.</p> - -<p>The north transept was considerably widened, in 1829, by setting back -the west wall and wheel stair. A portion of the old arcading is still -visible at the break on the west side.</p> - -<p>It has been mentioned above that Sir William Preston of Gorton was a -benefactor of St. Giles’. In 1454, after much trouble and expense -abroad, and aided by “a high and mighty prince, the King of France, and -many other Lords of France,” he succeeded in obtaining an arm bone of -the Patron Saint, which he generously bequeathed to the church. The Town -Council were so gratified with the gift that they resolved to add an -aisle to the choir in commemoration of the event, and to place therein a -tablet of brass narrating the bounty of Sir William. This aisle was to -be built within six or seven years, “furth frae our Lady Isle where the -said William lyis.” From this it appears that the south aisle of the -nave was known as the lady chapel, and that Sir William had been buried -there. The above resolution was carried into effect, and a new aisle, -called the Preston Aisle (see <a href="#fig_824">Fig. 824</a>), was constructed to the south of -the lady chapel. In carrying this out the south wall opposite the three -westmost bays of the choir was removed, and three arches carried on two -piers substituted (<a href="#fig_843">Fig. 843</a>). These piers and arches correspond with the -work of the same period at the east end of the choir. The vaulting is -also of a similar light and elegant character, and has similar -intermediate ribs or tiercerons and ridge ribs. The vaulting is raised -considerably above the arches next the aisle, and is carried on caps, -which have short shafts resting on corbels. One of these contains a -shield bearing the three unicorns’ heads of the Prestons.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_439" id="page_439">{439}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_842" id="fig_842"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_439.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_439.png" width="668" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Section of Mouldings of Window Jamb and Niche.</p> - -<p>Interior.</p> - -<p>Exterior.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 842.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. East Window of North -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_440" id="page_440">{440}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_843" id="fig_843"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_440.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_440.png" width="447" height="576" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 843.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Preston Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The aisle had one large window in the east end and three windows to the -south. This structure extends into the choir the great width of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_441" id="page_441">{441}</a></span> -four aisles of the church previously formed in the nave, thus adding -greatly both to the superficial area and to the appearance of -spaciousness and grandeur of the edifice.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_844" id="fig_844"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_441.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_441.png" width="469" height="363" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 844.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Monument in -Lauder’s Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church, in its full length and breadth, was now complete in all its -parts, as it still remains internally, with a few exceptions, till the -present day. It measures internally 196 feet from east to west by 125 -feet from north to south across the transepts. The choir is 68 feet in -width over the north and south aisles, and the Preston aisle is 45 feet -6 inches in length and 27 feet in width. The nave, including the five -south chapels, is 81 feet in length by 91 feet in width within the -walls.</p> - -<p>Several additional chapels were afterwards thrown out. In 1513 an aisle -of two arches was formed by Alexander Lauder, of Blyth, Provost of the -city; and in 1518 the altar of the Holy Blood was erected in this aisle, -which lay on the south of the nave, and to the east of the south<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_442" id="page_442">{442}</a></span> porch, -immediately adjoining the south transept. It was 29 feet long by 14 feet -wide, and opened into the south chapels of the nave with two arches, and -had two windows to the south. Between these windows, and recessed in the -wall, has now been erected what was, doubtless, a handsome monument -(<a href="#fig_844">Fig. 844</a>), containing a recumbent statue, or was, as some suppose, part -of the canopy of the altar.</p> - -<p>During the alterations of 1829 one half of this chapel was obliterated; -but the monument is still preserved, and its details are illustrated in -Figs. 845 and 846.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_845" id="fig_845"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_442.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_442.png" width="372" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 845.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Details of -Monument in Lauder’s Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In 1466 the Church of St. Giles was erected, by charter of James <small>III.</small>, -into a collegiate establishment, but is not called collegiate till 1475. -The chapter consisted of a provost, curate, sixteen prebendaries, a -minister of the choir, four choristers, a sacristan, and a beadle. -Besides these, there were chaplains ministering at thirty-six altars in -the church. The number of clergy connected with the establishment -probably reached about one hundred, who were supported by its -endowments. The perpetual vicar became the first provost, and the second -provost was Gavin Douglas, whose translation of Virgil’s <i>Æneid</i> into -the Scottish language was the first version of a Latin classic rendered -into any British tongue.</p> - -<p>The erection of St. Giles’ into a collegiate establishment was chiefly -effected through the exertions of the Town Council, who were desirous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_443" id="page_443">{443}</a></span> -of raising the status of their parish church. A great impetus was thus -given to the contributions of the faithful, and money for the “new work” -was also raised by fines.</p> - -<p>After this period a few additions still continued to be made to the -fabric. A small chapel, called the Chepman aisle, was thrown out from -the Preston aisle close to the south transept. It measures about 14 feet -long by 12 feet wide, and opens from the Preston aisle with a pointed -arch (<a href="#fig_847">Fig. 847</a>). The ceiling is formed with a pointed barrel vault, -ornamented with cross ribs, which spring from large carved corbels. This -chapel was founded and dedicated to St. John the Evangelist by Walter -Chepman, called the Scottish Caxton, from his having, in 1507, -introduced the art of printing into Scotland. St. John’s emblem of the -eagle (<a href="#fig_848">Fig. 848</a>) is carved on one of the corbels of the roof. Chepman’s -enterprise was greatly encouraged by James <small>IV.</small> and his Queen Margaret; -and, in thankfulness for the royal patronage, this chapel was dedicated -by Chepman, on 21st August 1513, to the welfare of the souls of the king -and queen, and their offspring. This happened within a month of James’s -death at Flodden, on 9th September 1513. Chepman himself was buried in -this aisle in 1532. The south transept seems to have been extended -southwards when the two chapels last mentioned were erected.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_846" id="fig_846"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_443.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_443.png" width="258" height="237" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 846.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Mouldings of -Monument.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only part of the interior of the structure still unmentioned is a -chapel to the east of the north transept. This building was at one time -used by the Town Clerk as his office, and contained several stories and -a staircase. It is said to have been erected after the Reformation, but -it was altered, having large windows inserted, and was connected with -the church as a vestry in 1829. It has recently been set apart to -contain the monument of Dr. Wm. Chambers, to whose liberality the city -is indebted for the complete renovation of the ancient cathedral.</p> - -<p>In 1829 the church was entirely renewed as regards the exterior, when -two chapels to the south of those built in 1389 and the south porch -were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_444" id="page_444">{444}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_847" id="fig_847"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_444.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_444.png" width="424" height="630" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 847.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. The Chepman -Aisle, from the Preston Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_445" id="page_445">{445}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">removed. The round arched doorway of the south porch (<a href="#fig_849">Fig. 849</a>) was -again erected between the north pillars of the crossing as the entrance -to the central division of the church. It has now been transferred to -the entrance doorway to the royal pew at the east end of the Preston -aisle. <a href="#fig_850">Fig. 850</a> shows the carved ornaments of this doorway, which are -all in the decorated style of its period.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_848" id="fig_848"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_445.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_445.png" width="243" height="319" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 848.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Chepman Aisle: -Corbel of Vault.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only portions of the exterior which escaped renewal were the tower -and steeple. Fortunately the well-known crown of St Giles’ (<a href="#fig_851">Fig. 851</a>), -which forms such a characteristic object in almost every view of -Edinburgh, was not interfered with in 1829. The date of its erection is -unknown, but to judge from its style it was probably built after the -great alterations in the interior were carried out. This crown -termination seems to have been a favourite feature with Scottish -architects. The crown of the tower of King’s College, Aberdeen, was -built after 1505, and similar crowns formerly existed on the towers of -Linlithgow and Haddington churches. The crown of St. Nicholas’ Church, -Newcastle, which is probably the only other steeple of this kind in -Great Britain, is also of a late date. There is a crown of the same -description on the tower of the Town Hall at Oudenarde, in Belgium,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_446" id="page_446">{446}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_849" id="fig_849"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_446.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_446.png" width="422" height="545" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 849.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Doorway of South -Porch and Section of Mouldings.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">which is also of late Gothic work, and there can be no hesitation in -assigning a late date (probably about 1500) to that of St Giles’. It is -a very picturesque and striking design, and accords well with its -surroundings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_447" id="page_447">{447}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_850" id="fig_850"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_447.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_447.png" width="429" height="646" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 850.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Details of -Doorway to Royal Pew.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_448" id="page_448">{448}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_851" id="fig_851"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_448.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_448.png" width="287" height="634" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 851.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Tower and -Crown.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_449" id="page_449">{449}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">in the Old Town. Some of the above crown steeples have an arch thrown -from each angle to a central pinnacle, an arrangement which renders them -rather thin and empty looking; but that of St. Giles’ has, in addition -to the arches from the angles, another arch cast from the centre of each -side to the centre pinnacle (<a href="#fig_852">Figs. 852</a> and <a href="#fig_853">853</a>). This produces an -octagonal appearance, which, together with the numerous crocketed -pinnacles with which the arches are ornamented, gives a richness and -fullness of effect which is wanting in some of the other steeples of -this description (<a href="#fig_854">Fig. 854</a>). The steeple of St. Giles’ was partly -rebuilt in 1648.</p> - -<p>Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, several of the guilds -had chapels assigned to them, for which they contributed to the church -funds. St. Eloi’s Chapel was given to the hammermen, and the “blue -blanket,” the flag to which the trades rallied, was kept there. Other -chapels and altars were set apart for the other corporations and trades, -and maintained by them. Many individuals famous in Scottish history were -buried in St. Giles’. Amongst these was Napier, the inventor of -logarithms, who died in 1617. His tomb is now inserted in the exterior -of the north wall of the choir, having been removed there, in 1829, from -the south side of the church. There still exist the remains of an arched -tomb recessed in the interior of the north wall of the choir, nearly -opposite the above, but no clue can be found to the name of the person -buried there. The Regent Murray, who was assassinated at Linlithgow in -1569, was buried in the south aisle. His monument was destroyed, but the -brass plate containing the inscription written in his honour by George -Buchanan was fortunately rescued, and has again been inserted in a new -monument erected in the Murray aisle (<a href="#fig_855">Fig. 855</a>). The scattered members -of the body of the great Montrose were collected and buried in the -Chepman aisle in the south part of St. Giles’ in 1661, but all trace of -his remains has now been lost, and no monument till recently marked his -grave.</p> - -<p>The Norman doorway on the north side of the church, which had been -carefully preserved for upwards of five centuries, and had survived all -the above alterations and reconstructions, was taken down and removed in -1798, probably, as Sir D. Wilson suggests, “for no better reason than to -evade the cost of its repair.”</p> - -<p>The disturbances of the Reformation broke out in Edinburgh at an early -date, and the Church of St. Giles was one of the first to suffer. In -1556 several of the images were stolen from the church, and next year -that of St. Giles was carried off by the mob, and first drowned in the -North Loch, and then burned. His arm bone, regarded as so precious one -hundred years before, is supposed to have been thrown out into the -adjoining churchyard. The church was pillaged and the altars and images -cast down. The valuables, however, were taken possession of by the -authorities and sold, and the proceeds spent in the repair of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_450" id="page_450">{450}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_852" id="fig_852"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_450.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_450.png" width="659" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Plan through Parapet.</p> - -<p>Plan through Pinnacle, looking down.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 852.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Plans of Crown.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_451" id="page_451">{451}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_853" id="fig_853"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_451.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_451.png" width="412" height="647" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 853.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Section through -Crown.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_452" id="page_452">{452}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_854" id="fig_854"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_452.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_452.png" width="393" height="674" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 854.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Crown Steeple.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_453" id="page_453">{453}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_855" id="fig_855"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_453.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_453.png" width="535" height="382" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig 855.</span>—St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Monument of -Regent Murray.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_454" id="page_454">{454}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">structure. In 1560 St. Giles’ again became the parish church, with John -Knox for its minister.</p> - -<p>Amongst the disturbances of the period, St. Giles’ Church was seized -upon, in 1571, by Kirkcaldy of Grange, who acted for the Queen’s party, -and used it as a fortress. He put soldiers in the roof and tower, who -riddled the vault with holes, so as to shoot down on their opponents.</p> - -<p>After the Reformation the church was considered to be too large for -Protestant worship, and in Knox’s time the Magistrates began to cut it -up into sections, so as to form several churches. Other alterations were -made at different times, and parts were appropriated to other than -sacred uses; so that at one time, besides the High Church in the choir -and the Tolbooth Church in the nave, there were included under the same -roof a grammar school, courts of justice, the Town Clerk’s office, a -weaver’s workshop, and a place for the “Maiden,” or instrument of public -executions.</p> - -<p>On the introduction, in 1633, of Laud’s new forms of worship, the church -became the see of a bishopric, and the choir was fitted up as a -cathedral.</p> - -<p>Between the downfall of Episcopacy in 1637 and its restoration in 1661, -it was once more Presbyterian; but having again become Episcopalian, the -bishop was ejected at the Revolution, and the Presbyterian form of -worship restored. These variations entailed several alterations in the -mode in which the interior was divided up, but the condition of the -building up to this century remained little altered for the better. The -choir still formed a separate church, having galleries introduced round -three sides of it, so as to completely spoil and conceal the -architecture. The nave was divided with walls, so as to contain several -separate churches, and other incongruous accommodation.</p> - -<p>The Tolbooth Church occupied the south-west angle, and Haddow’s Hole -Church the north-west angle. The Old Church comprised the south transept -and portions adjoining, and the Preston aisle was partitioned off as a -place of meeting for the General Assembly and other purposes. The dark -portions under the crossing and the north transept were occupied as the -police office.</p> - -<p>The alterations and rebuilding of 1829 still left the edifice divided -into three separate churches—the choir was appropriated to the High -Church, the nave was made into West St. Giles’ Church, and the Old -Church occupied the south transept and other portions adjoining. The -police office, however, and the Town Clerk’s office were cleared out, -and the north transept, which was occupied by the former, was converted -into a spacious lobby, from which the three churches entered.</p> - -<p>Although the ancient architecture of the exterior of St. Giles’ was -entirely obliterated by the reconstruction of 1829, it should be added -that some advantage was obtained by the removal of the small houses and -booths which had been built against the structure and between the -but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_455" id="page_455">{455}</a></span>tresses. The houses called the Luckenbooths had also encroached far -too close to the edifice, and their removal was a great gain to the -church and the town generally.</p> - -<p>The position of affairs in connection with St. Giles’ was as above -described when, as Lord Provost, Dr. William Chambers conceived the idea -of removing the partitions which divided the structure, and again -throwing the whole into one noble building. By his exertions, and -greatly by his pecuniary aid, this object was effected between 1870 and -1883. The opening service after the restoration was performed by the -Very Rev. Dr. Lees, in the presence of a congregation of 3000 people.</p> - -<p>St. Giles’ Cathedral, as restored, is now, as regards its interior, one -of the largest and most interesting Gothic buildings in the country.</p> - -<h3>ST. MICHAEL’S PARISH CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Linlithgow, West Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<p>A church dedicated to St. Michael existed here as early as the time of -David <small>I.</small> A new church is said to have been erected in 1242, and in 1384 -Robert <small>II.</small> contributed to its repair. A great fire occurred in 1424, -from which both the palace and church suffered great damage, and the -church seems to have been entirely rebuilt after that date. The -reconstruction of the edifice no doubt progressed, under the James’s, -simultaneously with the palace. In 1530-40, Thomas French, the king’s -master mason, was engaged at Linlithgow,<a name="FNanchor_161_161" id="FNanchor_161_161"></a><a href="#Footnote_161_161" class="fnanchor">[161]</a> and it is possible that -the church may have received some internal embellishment under his -direction.</p> - -<p>This edifice is, in part, a good example of the Scottish decorated -period. The nave is the earliest part of the structure, and, from its -history and style, it would appear to have been erected before the -middle of the fifteenth century. The choir is of somewhat later date. -These two portions were separated by an arch, which was removed about -1814, when the choir was cut off by a wall from the nave, and converted -into a church with galleries. At that time, too, the present plaster -ceiling of nave and choir (in the form of groined vaulting) was -substituted for the open oaken roof which was formerly visible. The -original stone vaulting of the side aisles, however, still extends round -the whole building. The plaster groining of the apse was introduced at -the above period. Otherwise, the structure has been little altered in -its leading features.</p> - -<p>St. Michael’s (<a href="#fig_856">Fig. 856</a>) consists of a choir, 53 feet from east to west, -by 65 feet from north to south, including two aisles, and a three-sided -apse at the east end; a nave, 95 feet in length by 65 feet in width, -including two aisles; two chapels inserted in the place (on the north -and south)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_456" id="page_456">{456}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_856" id="fig_856"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_456.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_456.png" width="639" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 856.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_457" id="page_457">{457}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">usually occupied by the transept; a square tower at the west end; and a -south porch giving access to the nave.</p> - -<p>From the style of the architecture, we have no hesitation in deciding -that the nave is the oldest part of the structure. The simple section of -the piers (<a href="#fig_857">Fig. 857</a>), and their moulded caps, with circular abaci and -characteristic bases (<a href="#fig_858">Fig. 858</a>), together with the elegantly pointed -arch mouldings, with their wide and effective spans, are all strongly -allied to decorated work. The corresponding features in the choir -(<a href="#fig_859">Fig. 859</a>) are somewhat similar to those of the nave, but the details, -especially the caps and bases of the piers, with their long, straight -mouldings, are of a later character, and recall those of the east end of -St. Giles’ Cathedral erected after the middle of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_857" id="fig_857"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_457.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_457.png" width="172" height="70" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 857.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. Piers.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The vaulting of the side aisles, both in nave and choir, is of the -simplest description, but bold and light in its effect. The bosses of -the north aisle of the nave contain shields charged with armorial -bearings, and still partly coloured. Small shields (without charge) are -also picturesquely placed upon the nave piers (see <a href="#fig_858">Fig. 858</a>).</p> - -<p>A broad stone bench or seat is carried all round the nave, and the bases -of the triple wall shafts of the vaulting, which are of good design, -rest upon it. Those of the choir, which are of different design, descend -to the floor, there being no bench in the choir.</p> - -<p>In the nave there are triforium openings in each bay, and clerestory -windows above them. The former have pointed arches, and each contains -two pointed and cusped lights, divided by a central mullion. The -clerestory windows have each a semicircular arch, and each contains a -two-light pointed and cusped opening (see <a href="#fig_858">Fig. 858</a>). Both clerestory and -triforium openings have label mouldings in the interior. The light wall -shafts which carried the wooden roof rest on corbels at the clerestory -level. The choir (see <a href="#fig_859">Fig. 859</a>) is distinguished from the nave by having -no triforium openings, but the clerestory windows are similar in both.</p> - -<p>The windows throughout the church are of large size, and mostly filled -with good and varied geometric tracery (<a href="#fig_860">Fig. 860</a>). That of the south -transept has six lights, and the tracery (which has been renewed) is of -good design. The restoration of the tracery of this window was carried -out about 1840 by William Roberts, mason, who executed the work bit by -bit, making the new tracery an exact copy of the old, which had been a -good deal damaged. The south transept contained the altar of St. -Katherine. It was in this transept that the strange apparition was seen -by James <small>IV.</small> which warned him against his fatal expedition into England -before the battle of Flodden.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_458" id="page_458">{458}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_858" id="fig_858"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_458.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_458.png" width="511" height="439" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 858.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. View from -South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_459" id="page_459">{459}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_859" id="fig_859"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_459.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_459.png" width="449" height="583" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 859.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_460" id="page_460">{460}</a></span></p> - -<p>The apse (<a href="#fig_861">Fig. 861</a>), which is three-sided, is somewhat awkwardly fitted -on to the choir, being formed like a large bow window, extending beyond -the choir, from which it opens by a large semicircular arch in the east -wall (see <a href="#fig_859">Fig. 859</a>). This wall is continued upwards on the exterior, so -as to form a gable, finished with crow-steps. The windows of the apse -are large, and the tracery of two of the windows is perpendicular in -character.</p> - -<p>The transepts (or north and south chapels) and the south porch are -constructed in a somewhat peculiar manner (see <a href="#fig_862">Figs. 862</a> and <a href="#fig_863">863</a>), -having crow-stepped gables both on their outer walls and also over the -inner or aisle wall which separates them from the church. The upper part -of these structures does not thus interfere with the aisle roof, but -stands apart from it, allowing the aisle roof and the clerestory to pass -clear behind them. The north chapel, with its round turret (see -<a href="#fig_862">Fig. 862</a>), forms a very picturesque feature of the edifice. Each of these -partly detached adjuncts contains an apartment over the vault (see -<a href="#fig_856">Fig. 856</a>). The chambers over the north transept and south porch are -approached by turret stairs, while access to that over the south -transept is obtained by passing along the gutter from the south porch -and entering by a door in the inner gable. The room over the south porch -seems to have been a place for preserving documents, there being three -wall presses, one having had double doors. The light from the small -oriel over the arch of the porch is not good. The room over the south -transept is provided with a large fireplace, and may have been used as a -kitchen; that over the north transept is empty and bare. The south -porch, with its picturesque upper oriel and stair turret (<a href="#fig_863">Fig. 863</a>), is -a very interesting part of the edifice. The doorway has good mouldings -and bold enrichment in the arch, and the corbelled oriel is a peculiar -adjunct to the church. A similar one existed at St. Giles’, Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>The parapet of the south aisle of the choir is provided with plain -gargoyles (<a href="#fig_864">Fig. 864</a>), twisted so as to throw the water off the windows; -but that of the nave has no gargoyles, the water being removed by pipes. -The cornice of the nave is also different from the rest of the building, -and has the appearance of being a comparatively recent repair. This may -have been executed at the same time as the repair of the tower (to be -referred to). The junction of the different parts of the parapet and -clerestory is seen in Figs. 860 and 864.</p> - -<p>The forms of the buttresses are worthy of notice (see <a href="#fig_860">Figs. 860</a> and -<a href="#fig_864">864</a>). Those of the nave have a simpler character than those of the apse -and north transept. They are all well enriched with niches, having -carved canopies and corbels, but those of the choir and north transept -contain a more minute style of carving and ornament than those of the -nave. The numerous set-offs of the buttresses of the apse (see -<a href="#fig_861">Fig. 861</a>),</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_461" id="page_461">{461}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_860" id="fig_860"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_461.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_461.png" width="571" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 860.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. View from -South.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_462" id="page_462">{462}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_861" id="fig_861"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_462.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_462.png" width="416" height="622" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 861.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_463" id="page_463">{463}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_862" id="fig_862"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_463.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_463.png" width="409" height="564" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 862.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. North Transept or -Chapel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and the small and paltry character of the finials of the north transept -(see <a href="#fig_862">Fig. 862</a>), indicate a late date. The canopies of the niches are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_464" id="page_464">{464}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_863" id="fig_863"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_464.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_464.png" width="446" height="596" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 863.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. South Porch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_465" id="page_465">{465}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_864" id="fig_864"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_465.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_465.png" width="377" height="621" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 864.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. South Side of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_466" id="page_466">{466}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">ornamented in a somewhat elaborate style (<a href="#fig_865">Fig. 865</a>), some of the -ornaments having a strong resemblance to the style of many of the -enrichments at Rosslyn.</p> - -<p>The buttress of the south-west angle of the nave, crowned with the -sculptured figure of St. Michael (<a href="#fig_866">Fig. 866</a>), forms a striking feature on -approaching the church. To the left, under the west window of the south -aisle of the nave, may be observed three corbels in the aisle wall, -which have apparently carried a pent roof, under which there is an -oblong aperture in the wall of the church. It is said that pensioners -here received their dole, but the use of the opening is not clear.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_865" id="fig_865"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_466.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_466.png" width="429" height="167" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 865.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. Canopies of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The western tower (see <a href="#fig_860">Fig. 860</a>) once formed an important feature of St. -Michael’s. It was originally terminated with a crown of open stonework, -similar to that of St. Giles’ in Edinburgh. But, about 1821, this crown -was found to be in a dangerous state, and had to be taken down. The -tower would appear to have been an addition to the original structure. -The Plan shows that a part of the original west wall has been cut out, -and the thicker wall of the tower inserted. This is seen both externally -and internally, and the awkward junction of the tower with the nave is -also apparent. The tower itself is of good design, but late—probably of -the same period as the apse. It contains a remarkable entrance doorway -(<a href="#fig_867">Fig. 867</a>), quite Continental in style, which may possibly be the work -of Thomas French, the king’s master mason. Above this doorway there is a -large perpendicular window. The upper part of the tower is plain and -solid, and would contrast well with the airy crown on top.</p> - -<p>In the interior the tower is designed so as to produce a good effect. It -opens into the nave with a wide and lofty arch (<a href="#fig_868">Fig. 868</a>) carried up to -the clerestory level; and the groined vault of the tower, with the large -window below, as seen through the arch, produce a good effect. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_467" id="page_467">{467}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_866" id="fig_866"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_467.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_467.png" width="331" height="633" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 866.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. South-West -Buttress of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_468" id="page_468">{468}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">each side wall of the tower there is a richly canopied recess, evidently -intended to receive monuments or sculpture, but now empty.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_867" id="fig_867"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_468.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_468.png" width="431" height="579" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 867.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_469" id="page_469">{469}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_868" id="fig_868"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_469.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_469.png" width="447" height="545" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 868.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. Interior of -Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A portion of what appears to have been a carved altar-piece has been -preserved in the church (<a href="#fig_869">Fig. 869</a>). It consists of two panels, which -have evidently formed part of a series, representing scenes in our -Lord’s Passion<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_470" id="page_470">{470}</a></span> and death. The panel on the left shows the scene in the -garden, with the three apostles asleep; and the panel on the right -exhibits the betrayal.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_869" id="fig_869"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_470.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_470.png" width="419" height="433" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 869.</span>—St. Michael’s Parish Church. Carved -Altar-piece.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Church of St. Michael’s is one of the largest of the ancient parish -churches of Scotland. The wall which separated the nave and choir has -recently been removed, and the whole thrown into one church. In 1559 the -building was taken possession of by the Lords of the Congregation, in -their march from Perth to Edinburgh, when the altars and images were -destroyed, the figure of St. Michael (see <a href="#fig_866">Fig. 866</a>) only escaping -demolition.</p> - -<p>The steeple contains three old bells—one dated 1490, and the other two -recast during the eighteenth century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_471" id="page_471">{471}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ST. MONANS CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>St. Monans is the name of one of the numerous fishing villages on the -Fifeshire coast of the Frith of Forth, and lies about three miles west -from Anstruther. The village derives its name from St. Monan, who, by -tradition, is believed to have been a missionary to the Picts in the -eighth century, and to have suffered martyrdom by the Danes on the Isle -of May. His body is said to have been buried on the mainland; and over -it a small chapel was subsequently erected, which had a reputation for -cures. Dr. Skene, however, thinks that St. Monan was Bishop of Clonfert, -and that his relics were brought from Ireland to Fife about 845, and -deposited in a church erected in his honour.<a name="FNanchor_162_162" id="FNanchor_162_162"></a><a href="#Footnote_162_162" class="fnanchor">[162]</a> This original chapel -was replaced with a larger edifice by David <small>II.</small> in 1362, in gratitude -for his miraculous escape, through St. Monan’s influence, from the fatal -effects of the barb of an arrow with which he was wounded at Durham. Sir -William Dishington, of the adjoining estate of Ardross, was appointed -master of the works;<a name="FNanchor_163_163" id="FNanchor_163_163"></a><a href="#Footnote_163_163" class="fnanchor">[163]</a> and between 1362 and 1370 the sum of £613, 7s. -was paid to him in connection with the fabric, besides £6, 13s. 4d. for -the carpenter work. Dishington hired a ship from a burgess of Inverness -to convey timber from there for the building; and there appear to have -been three freights, which cost for transit £20, £10, and £7, 17s. 8d. -In 1364 and 1366, before the church was finished, there are payments to -at least three chaplains celebrating at St. Monans, two of whom had £10 -and the other 20 merks yearly.<a name="FNanchor_164_164" id="FNanchor_164_164"></a><a href="#Footnote_164_164" class="fnanchor">[164]</a></p> - -<p>About a century after the founding of the church, it was bestowed by -James <small>III.</small> on the Dominicans. In 1544 it is said to have suffered a good -deal at the hands of the English. The structure, however, still -survives, and has long been used as the parish church. It is most -picturesquely situated on the rocks, at the junction of a small stream -with the sea; and, although exposed to the violence of the tempests and -the waves for several centuries, it still retains more of its original -architecture than most of our more favourably situated churches.</p> - -<p>The building (<a href="#fig_870">Fig. 870</a>) consists of a chancel, north and south -transepts, and a tower and spire over the crossing. Although a nave has -evidently been intended, it has never been built. The chancel is 50 feet -long by 23 feet wide internally. It is divided into four bays, marked -externally by buttresses, with traceried windows between them -(<a href="#fig_871">Fig. 871</a>); and, internally, by groined vaults, springing from wall shafts -between the bays (<a href="#fig_872">Fig. 872</a>). The east end (see <a href="#fig_871">Fig. 871</a>) has two -traceried windows, with a buttress between, surmounted by a small oblong -light, filled with tracery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_472" id="page_472">{472}</a></span> The north and south transepts are each 17 -feet in length by 18 feet in width. The north transept (<a href="#fig_873">Fig. 873</a>) has a -three-light window to the north and a two-light window to the west; and -the ceiling is covered with a groined vault, having numerous ribs. The -south transept (<a href="#fig_874">Fig. 874</a>) has two windows to the south and one to the -west. The crossing has large clustered piers supporting the arches (see -<a href="#fig_872">Fig. 872</a>), which carry the tower and spire. The western end is built up -with a solid wall (see <a href="#fig_874">Fig. 874</a>), without any indication of an arch to -the nave. It contains a tall traceried window of two lights, with a -transom in the centre of the height. A turret stair at the north-west -angle leads to the top of the tower.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_870" id="fig_870"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_472.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_472.png" width="432" height="404" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 870.</span>—St. Monans Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The evidence of the <i>Exchequer Rolls</i> is conclusive as to a church -having been erected here, at considerable outlay, in the fourteenth -century; but,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_473" id="page_473">{473}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_871" id="fig_871"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_473.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_473.png" width="535" height="424" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 871.</span>—St. Monans Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_474" id="page_474">{474}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_872" id="fig_872"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_474.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_474.png" width="469" height="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 872.</span>—St. Monans Church. Choir, looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">to judge from the architecture alone, it seems scarcely possible to -believe that the church we now see is the one erected in the time of -David <small>II.</small> All<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_475" id="page_475">{475}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_873" id="fig_873"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_475.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_475.png" width="570" height="431" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 873.</span>—St. Monans Church. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_476" id="page_476">{476}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_874" id="fig_874"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_476.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_476.png" width="461" height="515" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 874.</span>—St. Monans Church. South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the features of the structure point to a date later by about a century. -The church having been bestowed by James <small>III.</small> on the Dominicans, one -would be inclined to ascribe the erection or, perhaps, restoration of -the edifice to his reign. The style of church erected in the fifteenth -century was generally a cross church, without aisles. St. Monans is -designed on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_477" id="page_477">{477}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_875" id="fig_875"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_477.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_477.png" width="452" height="565" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 875.</span>—St. Monans Church. East End of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">that plan, and, like many of the other cross churches, remains -incomplete, the nave not having been erected. In almost all its details -it corresponds<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_478" id="page_478">{478}</a></span> with the Scottish structures of the fifteenth century. -The windows have all splays running round the jambs and arches, without -caps; and the tracery is of an undoubtedly late Scottish form (see -Figs. 871 and 875). The curious small upper window in the east end could -scarcely be of fourteenth century date.</p> - -<p>The vaulting (see <a href="#fig_874">Fig. 874</a>) is groined, and has main and subsidiary ribs -or tiercerons. This is not usual in the collegiate churches of the -fifteenth century, in which the pointed barrel vault is commonly used; -but we have one prominent example in the Trinity College Kirk of -Edinburgh, built about 1460, in which groined and ribbed vaulting was -fully carried out. The ribs at St. Monans are arranged in a rather -singular manner. There is a well-marked ridge rib, and there are also -transverse ridge ribs; but the latter stop at the point where the -tiercerons meet them; and from that point the transverse ridge ribs -slope down to the apex of the windows, where they are received by a -small corbel (<a href="#fig_875">Fig. 875</a>). The tiercerons are also irregularly placed; -they do not spring, like the other ribs, from the cap of the vaulting -shaft, but die away into the wall some way up the wall rib. These -peculiarities have the appearance of late and imperfect workmanship. It -will be observed that the single wall shafts, from the capital of which -the vaulting ribs spring, have no bases.</p> - -<p>The sedilia (see <a href="#fig_875">Fig. 875</a>) in the south wall of the choir of St. Monans -may be regarded as decorated work. We find similar, and even finer, work -of this description at Crosraguel Abbey in the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>The buttresses are simple, and might belong to almost any period. It -should be stated that the tops of the buttresses were “restored” early -in this century. The want of a parapet at the roof is peculiar, and may -possibly be the effect of restoration. It is evident that a parapet has -been intended at the gable of the south transept, where there is a door -for access to the parapet walk (see <a href="#fig_874">Fig. 874</a>). The peculiar character of -this transept is remarkable. The two small round-headed windows, with -their deep recess, and the great expanse of dead wall above them, must -certainly be considered as of late design.</p> - -<p>The stunted style of the square tower (see <a href="#fig_871">Figs. 871</a> and <a href="#fig_873">873</a>), which -just rises above the roofs, is quite in keeping with the Scottish towers -of the fifteenth century. The parapet is supported on corbels, which are -different on three of the sides. The tower is surmounted by an octagonal -spire, which is of the usual rather stunted form common in the fifteenth -century. Some of the details, such as the numerous lucarnes, may be even -later.</p> - -<p>It will be observed that the sedilia is placed at a considerable height -above the floor. This may arise from the steps leading to the altar -having been removed, and the floor of the whole of the east end lowered -to the general level of the choir; or, perhaps, the floor of the whole -church has been lowered. The bases of the piers at the crossing, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_479" id="page_479">{479}</a></span> -are of a very unusual height, would rather support the latter view (see -<a href="#fig_872">Fig. 872</a>).</p> - -<p>It is not clear where the original entrance to the church was situated. -Two doors in the east end now give access to it, but these are clearly -modern innovations. There is a pointed doorway in the north wall of the -choir (see <a href="#fig_872">Fig. 872</a>), which now gives access to a vestry, and, from its -position, it seems likely to have originally led to the sacristy.</p> - -<p>Whether viewed from the village as one approaches the church from the -opposite high bank of the burn (see <a href="#fig_873">Fig. 873</a>), or as seen from the rocky -shore (see <a href="#fig_871">Fig. 871</a>), the Church of St. Monans, both from its situation -and the completeness and charm of its ancient architecture, is one of -the most picturesque and interesting structures of its class in -Scotland.</p> - -<p>Although, from what is above said, we cannot regard this structure as so -old as 1360, still we consider it worthy of being included amongst the -Scottish examples of decorated work.</p> - -<h3>WHITHORN PRIORY, <span class="smcap">Wigtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The name of Whithorn is a venerable one in Scottish annals. Here, -according to tradition, St. Ninian, in the beginning of the fifth -century, planted the first seeds of Christianity in Scotland. It is -disputed whether his first oratory, called <i>Candida Casa</i>, was -established, after the manner of the early hermits, on a small isle or -peninsula at the point of the promontory which lies between the bays of -Luce and Wigton, about three miles south from Whithorn, or on the spot -where the monastery afterwards arose. There are the ruins of a small -chapel<a name="FNanchor_165_165" id="FNanchor_165_165"></a><a href="#Footnote_165_165" class="fnanchor">[165]</a> on “The Isle,” and although that structure evidently belongs -to a much later time, it is surmised by Mr. Muir and others that it is -probably the successor of St. Ninian’s first foundation.</p> - -<p>It has been mentioned in the Introduction<a name="FNanchor_166_166" id="FNanchor_166_166"></a><a href="#Footnote_166_166" class="fnanchor">[166]</a> that other indications -exist in this region in the form of ancient sculptured stones, which -point to its early Christianisation, and that after a great school of -religious instruction had been established here, it gradually died out, -and became practically extinct. But under David <small>I.</small> a new religious -fervour arose, and the diocese of <i>Candida Casa</i> was established between -1124 and 1130. This part of Galloway having been long under the sway of -Northumbria, the bishop remained under the jurisdiction of the see of -York till 1472, when the archbishopric of St. Andrews was constituted; -and, in 1491, when Glasgow was made a metropolitan see, the Bishop of -Galloway became Vicar-General.</p> - -<p>The priory of Whithorn was founded in the time of David <small>I.</small> by his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_480" id="page_480">{480}</a></span> -friend Fergus, Lord of Galloway. It was colonised by Premonstratensian -Canons, and became the chief church of the diocese of Galloway.</p> - -<p>The sanctity of St. Ninian’s shrine was universally recognised, and it -was constantly visited by thousands of pilgrims, many of them the most -distinguished persons in the land. King Robert Bruce made the pilgrimage -to Whithorn in 1329, not long before his death. Other royal personages -also visited the ancient seat. James <small>IV.</small> paid annual visits, and -sometimes went twice in the year. From the <i>Accounts of the Lord High -Treasurer</i> we learn that he made the pilgrimage in state, accompanied by -a large retinue, including his minstrels. The priory naturally became -wealthy, and the church and other buildings were of great extent.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_876" id="fig_876"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_480.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_480.png" width="469" height="218" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 876.</span>—Whithorn Priory. Plan of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In 1587 the property was, by Act of Parliament, annexed to the Crown; -and in 1606 it was granted by James <small>VI.</small> to the Bishop of Galloway. It -became transferred, in 1641, to the College of Glasgow, and finally, in -1689, it reverted to the Crown.</p> - -<p>All the documents which might throw light on the history of the -monastery have, unfortunately, been lost. They are supposed to have -either been destroyed or carried abroad by the canons at the -Reformation. Some distinguished men held the office of prior, amongst -whom were Gavin Dunbar, who was prior in 1514, and afterwards tutor to -James <small>V.</small>, and Archbishop of Glasgow; and James Beaton, who also -subsequently became Archbishop of Glasgow and St. Andrews.<a name="FNanchor_167_167" id="FNanchor_167_167"></a><a href="#Footnote_167_167" class="fnanchor">[167]</a></p> - -<p>Of the extensive buildings of the monastery there remained standing, in -1684, according to Symson, only the steeple and the body of the great -church; all the remainder was in ruins, or had been carried away. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_481" id="page_481">{481}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_877" id="fig_877"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_481.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_481.png" width="478" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 877.</span>—Whithorn Priory. Ground Plan.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:75%; -text-align:left;"> -<tr><td> 1. Foundations of West Tower, which fell at the beginning of last century.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 2. Gable then erected, closing and contracting Parish Church.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 3. In its complete state, Nave of the Old Priory Church, closed at east end by a sixteenth or seventeenth century gable.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 4. Burial Vault of the Murrays of Broughton, seventeenth century.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 5. Site of Cloisters.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 6. Site of Domestic Buildings of Priory, on the foundations of which the present Parish Church was erected, 1822.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 7. Ancient Entrance to Domestic Buildings.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 8. Remains of Slype, uncovered December 1888.</td></tr> -<tr><td> 9. Piece of well-laid Rubble Causeway, with good Camber.</td></tr> -<tr><td>10. Chapter House, Site of.</td></tr> -<tr><td>11. Remains of Pillar found in situ.</td></tr> -<tr><td>12. Small portion of twelfth century South Transept.</td></tr> -<tr><td>13. Crypt of a later Transept, with small circular and domed chamber, and angle buttresses of uncertain projection.</td></tr> -<tr><td>14. Chancel Crypt, originally rib-vaulted, now barrel-vaulted.</td></tr> -<tr><td>15. Stair from Church to Crypt, now blocked.</td></tr> -<tr><td>16. Larder, or Apartment connected with the preparation of edible animals for the kitchen.</td></tr> -<tr><td>17. Foundations of Lady Chapel.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">Making the entire length of Buildings, inclusive of West Tower, nearly 250 feet.</td></tr> -</table> - -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_482" id="page_482">{482}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">tower at the west end of the church, which contained the belfry, fell -more than a century ago, and, in falling, destroyed the west gable of -the church.</p> - -<p>The buildings of the priory have now been reduced to the nave -(<a href="#fig_876">Fig. 876</a>), an aisleless structure, 74 feet long by 24 feet wide internally, -and to some underground vaulted buildings, which no doubt formerly -supported the choir and other erections above. Considerable excavations -and investigations have recently been made on the site by the Marquis of -Bute, under the careful superintendence of Mr. William Galloway, -architect, whom we have to thank for the accompanying Plan (<a href="#fig_877">Fig. 877</a>) -showing the outline of all that remains of the priory. The explanations -attached to the Plan give Mr. Galloway’s views as to the various parts -of the edifice.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_878" id="fig_878"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_482.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_482.png" width="449" height="318" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 878.</span>—Whithorn Priory. Nave, from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The west tower (1), which fell in the beginning of last century, is now -a mere ruin a few feet in height, and the new west wall (2), built in -consequence of the destruction of the old gable wall, diminishes the -size of the nave. The eastern wall of the nave (<a href="#fig_878">Fig. 878</a>) is a -post-Reformation erection, evidently added to enable the old nave to be -used as a parish church. The cloister (5) lay to the north of the nave, -which accounts for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_483" id="page_483">{483}</a></span> there being no windows in the north wall of the -latter. Not a vestige now remains of the cloister walk or garth.</p> - -<p>The chapter house (10), slype (8), and (6) site of domestic buildings -extended to the north of the transept. The old foundations and portions -of walls remain in connection with the parts tinted black. The parish -church (6) is now built on old foundations, with a porch at 7. 9 shows a -piece of causeway flooring <i>in situ</i>, and 11 is the foundation of a -pillar of the chapter house. The crypts (14), which are on a basement -floor, show the extent of the choir, and 13 is the crypt or basement of -a large building to the south. A considerable portion of the vaulting of -these crypts has been preserved. To the east 17 probably indicates the -foundations of the lady chapel. To the north of the choir is a detached -structure (16), believed, from the remains of feathers, &c. found in it, -to have been a larder. The remainder of the ground is entirely covered -with graves, so that it was only accidentally that a small portion of -the foundation of the south transept (12) was discovered.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_879" id="fig_879"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_483.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_483.png" width="318" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 879.</span>—Whithorn Priory. Tomb Recess in Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The nave (see <a href="#fig_878">Fig. 878</a>) still retains its ancient side walls, which are -probably of the fifteenth century. The south-east doorway is of good -form, and the mouldings are also good. “It bears the arms of Alexander -Vaus, Bishop from 1426 to 1450.”<a name="FNanchor_168_168" id="FNanchor_168_168"></a><a href="#Footnote_168_168" class="fnanchor">[168]</a> In the interior (<a href="#fig_879">Fig. 879</a>) the -north wall<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_484" id="page_484">{484}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_880" id="fig_880"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_484.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_484.png" width="414" height="550" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 880.</span>—Whithorn Priory. South-West Doorway of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">contains two pointed recesses for monuments, of which the design is -excellent. The general design is of first pointed character, but the -moulding on the left side has been repaired with ornament of fifteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_485" id="page_485">{485}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_881" id="fig_881"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_485.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_485.png" width="286" height="249" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 881.</span>—Whithorn Priory. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">century work. The most important feature connected with the nave is the -doorway at the south-west angle (<a href="#fig_880">Fig. 880</a>). It is set in a slight -projection of the wall, which contains features, such as the pointed -window over the doorway, which indicate a late period. The doorway -itself is undoubtedly Norman, and probably of an early date. It is much -worn away, and has been greatly damaged by the erection of a porch (now -removed), the roof of which has cut into the mouldings. The shafts are -built in nooks, and have caps carved with owls’ heads and other -ornaments, now much decayed. One cap is carved with a quatrefoil, which -is certainly a late addition. The abacus is of simple section, and is -carved with sunk faceted ornaments. The arch comprises four orders, -besides a hood mould. Three of these orders are enriched with chevron -ornaments, and one order (the second from the inner opening) has an -irregular arrangement of geometric patterns and circular discs. Similar -geometric patterns are introduced in the west doorway at Dunfermline -Abbey. It will be observed that some of the voussoirs are incomplete. -Thus in the outer order the second voussoir to the left of the head over -the centre has the chevron very imperfectly cut, and is evidently an -insertion. The same remark applies to the voussoir below it to the -right, which has only one half of a chevron, and in the next order -straight below the head a rounded stone is substituted for the proper -voussoir. All these divergences from the usual careful work of Norman -building seem to indicate that there has been an alteration of the -doorway.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_486" id="page_486">{486}</a></span> Most probably it has been rebuilt and the imperfect voussoirs -introduced to make up deficiencies in the old work.</p> - -<p>The hood mould, which is plain, had a terminal at each end, carved as a -large human head.</p> - -<p>The remarkable figures carved on the projecting wall, above each side of -the arch, are worthy of observation. The sculpture on the right side and -the lower one on the left have a strong resemblance to the figures often -found on the ancient sculptured stones, and, when taken in connection -with the sculptures at Dalmeny, point to a close affinity between the -sculptured figures on the ancient stones and the architecture of the -twelfth century in Scotland. It may be mentioned that many fragments of -sculptured stones, chiefly carved with interlacing work, have been dug -up in the neighbourhood, and are kept in the existing part of the old -church.</p> - -<p>The ancient font (<a href="#fig_881">Fig. 881</a>) has been preserved. It is bowl shaped and -extremely simple in design, and may be of Norman date. Mr. Galloway -informs us that it was long used as a trough for pounding stucco, and -stood at the Town Hall. It is now reverently placed in the church.</p> - -<h3>TEMPLE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_882" id="fig_882"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_486.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_486.png" width="417" height="217" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 882.</span>—Temple Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ancient Church of Temple is beautifully situated in the valley of -the river South Esk, about three miles from Gorebridge Railway Station, -and seven miles south from Dalkeith. As the name implies, this site was -(in the time of David <small>I.</small>) the residence of the Knights Templars.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_487" id="page_487">{487}</a></span></p> - -<p>Before the Reformation there were three churches in the upper valley of -the Esk, which belonged to the monks of Newbotle. One of these, called -Balentradoch, was granted by Pope Clement <small>V.</small>, in 1312, after the -suppression of the Templars, to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John. At -the Reformation the three churches were united into one parish, and the -existing structure was used as the parish church till 1832, when a new -church was erected near it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_883" id="fig_883"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_487.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_487.png" width="442" height="396" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 883.</span>—Temple Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The plan of the church (<a href="#fig_882">Fig. 882</a>) is a simple oblong, 55 feet in length -by 17 feet 9 inches in width internally. A portion at the west end, -measuring about 17 feet 6 inches externally, has been added since the -Reformation. This portion contained a gallery, entered by a high outside -doorway in the north-west corner. There are in the west wall a -round-headed doorway on the ground level and a high window with two -pointed lights over it. Some doorways have also been opened in the older -part of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_488" id="page_488">{488}</a></span> the structure about the same time—viz., one in the centre of -the north wall and one at the east end of the south wall.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_884" id="fig_884"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_488.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_488.png" width="453" height="413" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 884.</span>—Temple Church. East End of North Wall.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The more ancient part of the building is in good preservation, although -roofless. It contains a large traceried window in the east wall -(<a href="#fig_883">Fig. 883</a>), and has had two traceried windows, each with three lights, in each -of the side walls. These windows are well preserved, except the west one -in the north wall, which has been practically removed and built up, only -the interior sconsions being now traceable. To the west of the above -windows there occur two narrow lancet windows, one in the north and one -in the south wall, opposite one another. There is an ancient -trefoil-headed doorway in the north wall (<a href="#fig_884">Fig. 884</a>), and at the -north-east angle of the same wall a broad set-off is visible at a high -level,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_489" id="page_489">{489}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_885" id="fig_885"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_489.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_489.png" width="445" height="474" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 885.</span>—Temple Church. Interior of East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">indicating that there must have been some structure with a sloping stone -roof (possibly a monument) under it. The wall at this place has been -rebuilt. In the interior of the north wall (<a href="#fig_885">Fig. 885</a>), under the -eastmost side window, a segmentally-arched recess is introduced. It is -about 6 feet 2 inches long, and has had good mouldings springing from -small shafts and caps, but is now greatly destroyed. This may have been -an easter sepulchre. In the interior of the south wall there has been a -sedilia with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_490" id="page_490">{490}</a></span> two seats (see <a href="#fig_885">Fig. 885</a>), each having a trefoil-headed -arch, with bold roll on edge, of which only a small portion survives.</p> - -<p>Externally (see <a href="#fig_883">Fig. 883</a>) the building is provided with a buttress at -each side of the east end, and another at right angles to it at the -south-east angle. A similar buttress occurs on the south wall between -the two south windows. These buttresses are all finished with acute -gablets and fleur-de-lys ridges, and the string course and base are -returned round them.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_886" id="fig_886"></a><a name="fig_887" id="fig_887"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_490.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_490.png" width="385" height="123" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 886.</span>—Temple Church.</p> - -<p>Details of Windows.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 887.</span>—Temple Church.</p> - -<p>Details.</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The east window has a double splay on the jambs (<a href="#fig_886">Fig. 886</a>), and the arch -mouldings, which consist of bold rolls, partly filleted, die against the -splays. The hood moulding has carved terminals, apparently of animals. -The intersecting tracery is simple, and the mullions are splayed, and -each aperture between the curved branches of the mullions contains a -chamfered circle. There is no cusping.</p> - -<p>In the interior (see <a href="#fig_885">Fig. 885</a>), the opening of the east window being -wider than on the exterior, the arch is larger and the springing is -lower. It is moulded with a large filleted roll, and has a hood -(<a href="#fig_887">Fig. 887</a>). The roll rests on a round moulded cap, which crowns the angle -shaft of the sconsion.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_888" id="fig_888"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_490-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_490-b.png" width="44" height="33" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 888.</span></p> - -<p>Temple Church,<br /> Rear Arch of<br /> Side Windows.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The side windows have also arch mouldings, which die against the splays -of the jambs (see <a href="#fig_886">Fig. 886</a>), and the hoods are terminated with roses, or -animals like lizards, much decayed. The tracery is simple, and the large -circle over the central light is peculiar. The sconsions are plain, but -the sconsion arches are segmental and moulded (see <a href="#fig_885">Figs. 885</a> and <a href="#fig_888">888</a>). -The two lancet windows to the west have hoods terminated with roses, and -the sconsion arches are segmental and moulded. Beneath the windows a -filleted roll runs round the building as a string course, and one course -below it is a broadly splayed base course, with a lower base under it -(see <a href="#fig_883">Fig. 883</a>). These mouldings only extend round the older part of the -structure, the newer portion at the west end having a separate base of a -different character.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_491" id="page_491">{491}</a></span></p> - -<p>The east gable still retains its sloping cope, which has at the base a -small gablet erected upon the skew putt, finished with a fleur-de-lys -ridge. In the gable (see <a href="#fig_883">Fig. 883</a>) over the east window there is a -circular aperture, now blocked up; and on the apex there has been -erected, in comparatively recent times, a plain bellcot, with pyramidal -roof.</p> - -<p>On a stone at the base of the bellcot the following Roman letters have -been run in with lead—viz., <small>V Æ S A C</small>, and below these, <small>M I H M</small>. Round -the corner of the same stone, on the north side, are the similar letters -<small>R I</small>. The meaning of these letters has not been explained. Possibly the -stone has been brought from somewhere else, where the context might have -rendered the letters intelligible.</p> - -<p>From the general style of the details of the building there can be no -difficulty in fixing its date during the middle pointed period. Most of -the mouldings are of an early character, but some of the features (such -as the arch mouldings dying on the jambs) are later. Besides, in -Scotland allowance must be made for backwardness, and we should be -inclined to regard this structure as being of about the end of the -fourteenth century. It is valuable as an example of the decorated period -in Scotland, of which period few, if any, parish churches are now to be -found.</p> - -<h3>THE PARISH CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Haddington, East Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<p>The town of Haddington is situated on the left bank of the Tyne, near -the centre of the county to which it gives its name. It is of very -ancient date, having been a royal residence from the time of David <small>I.</small> -till the thirteenth century. The last remains of the royal palace were -only removed in 1833. The town was formerly well provided with -ecclesiastical edifices, having, besides the Parish Church, the -monasteries of the Franciscans and Dominicans, the Cistercian Nunnery -(about a mile lower down the river), and the chapels of St. Martin, St. -Ann, St. Katherine, St. John, and St. Ninian. Of these establishments, -the only one (except St. Martin’s, already described)<a name="FNanchor_169_169" id="FNanchor_169_169"></a><a href="#Footnote_169_169" class="fnanchor">[169]</a> of which any -trace of the structure remains is the Parish Church, which, although now -to a great extent ruinous, still retains enough of its noble -architecture to justify its ancient name of the “Lamp of Lothian.”</p> - -<p>Considerable difference of opinion has been expressed as to the identity -of the existing edifice. Dr. Barclay, who wrote in 1792,<a name="FNanchor_170_170" id="FNanchor_170_170"></a><a href="#Footnote_170_170" class="fnanchor">[170]</a> says:—“I -am decidedly of opinion that the present Parish Church of Haddington is -the same that formerly belonged to the Franciscans, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_492" id="page_492">{492}</a></span> which Major -says was called <i>Lucerna Laudoniæ</i>; as a field, now converted into a -garden, and which is still styled the Friars’ Croft, lies contiguous to -the churchyard, and is not above 30 yards distant from the Parish -Church.”</p> - -<p>On the other hand, as has been pointed out by Mr. Robb in his <i>Guide to -Haddington</i>, the site of the property of the Franciscans is fully -described in the charter of 1560 disponing it to the burgh, which -charter is signed by one of the friars. From this it appears that the -position of the Church of the Franciscans, as defined by the boundaries -of their lands, lay a little way lower down the river. One of the -boundaries is called in the charter the high road leading towards the -Parish Church, thus indicating that the Parish Church was different from -the Church of the Franciscans. Besides, the other boundaries are pretty -distinctly defined, and may still be followed.</p> - -<p>This matter has been further fully discussed in a paper by Mr. Henry F. -Kerr, in the <i>Transactions of the Edinburgh Architectural Association</i>, -Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 21, in which Mr. Kerr concurs with Mr. Robb’s views.</p> - -<p>The Church of the Franciscans, as ascertained from an old charter of the -friars, was founded in 1258, and was a splendid structure. Not a trace -of it now remains.</p> - -<p>Another croft, nearer the Parish Church, called the King’s Yard, of -which the boundaries are described, also belonged to the Franciscans. On -this land Haddington House<a name="FNanchor_171_171" id="FNanchor_171_171"></a><a href="#Footnote_171_171" class="fnanchor">[171]</a> was erected in 1680, and the croft was -converted into a garden. In 1477 King James <small>III.</small> made over this field to -Sir Richard Cockburn of Clubington, who afterwards gave it as a gift to -the friars of the Franciscan monastery. At the Reformation the friars -disponed it to the town, and its boundaries are fully described in a -charter of 1580.<a name="FNanchor_172_172" id="FNanchor_172_172"></a><a href="#Footnote_172_172" class="fnanchor">[172]</a> It is believed that this is the field, “still -called the Friars’ Croft,” which misled Dr. Barclay into the belief that -the Parish Church was that of the Franciscans.</p> - -<p>The Abbey, or Nunnery, of Haddington (above referred to as being one -mile east of the town) was of ancient foundation, having been founded, -in 1178, by Ada, Countess of Northumberland, widow of Prince Henry, and -mother of Malcolm the Maiden and William the Lion. It was occupied by -Cistercian Nuns, and possessed the Nungate, or suburb of Haddington, -lying on the east side of the Tyne. Owing to its situation so near the -Borders, and also to its proximity to the Tyne, the town of Haddington -and its religious establishments were much exposed to injury, both by -the invading hosts from the South and by the flooded waters of the -river, and it also suffered severely on several occasions from fire. The -town was burnt in 1244.</p> - -<p>In 1355 Edward <small>III.</small> invaded Scotland, when the town and the Church<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_493" id="page_493">{493}</a></span> of -the Franciscans were destroyed, together with numerous other towns and -churches in the South of Scotland. So severe was this attack that it was -long recalled in that part of the country as the “burnt Candlemas,” the -invasion having taken place in the month of February.</p> - -<p>In 1358 the town was overwhelmed with an extraordinary inundation, when -the Nungate, or suburb on the eastern bank of the river, was levelled -with the ground, and the sacristy of the church was flooded and its -contents destroyed.</p> - -<p>The ancient Church of Haddington, which was dedicated to the Virgin, was -founded by David <small>I.</small>, and by him granted, in 1134, to the priory of St. -Andrews. The existing structure is of considerably later date. There is -no record of its erection; but, from the style of the architecture, it -was probably rebuilt in the first half of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>The church (<a href="#fig_889">Fig. 889</a>) is cruciform, having choir and nave, both with -side aisles, and north and south transepts without aisles. The choir is -77 feet long and 54 feet 11 inches wide internally (including the -aisles), and consists of four bays; the transept is 105 feet 4½ inches -long, from north to south, by 23 feet 2½ inches wide; and the nave is 47 -feet 6 inches long by 56 feet wide (including the side aisles), and is -divided into five bays. The structure is thus of considerable -dimensions, the total internal length being 196 feet 8 inches. Over the -crossing rises the central tower, 90 feet in height.</p> - -<p>The nave is the only part of the edifice which is roofed and occupied, -being still used as the Parish Church. The choir and transepts are -ruinous, and the walls have had to be supported with iron rances and -ties, which greatly spoil the appearance of the interior of the choir. -Otherwise the walls are pretty complete.</p> - -<p>There is no record of there having been any destruction of the church by -popular outbreak at the Reformation, to which fact we may attribute the -comparatively perfect state of the structure at the present time.</p> - -<p>The design of the interior of the choir (<a href="#fig_890">Figs. 890</a> and <a href="#fig_891">891</a>) comprises in -each bay a main arcade, resting on simple clustered piers of rather -diminutive height, having bases and caps, the mouldings and foliage of -which clearly belong to the middle pointed or decorated period. There is -no triforium; but the arches of the main arcade being large and lofty, -comparatively little plain wall space is left between them and the -string course, but the wall space below the clerestory windows is plain -and heavy. The latter windows are pointed and filled with simple -tracery. The choir was entirely vaulted, both in centre and side aisles, -the central vault springing from vaulting shafts resting on the capitals -of the main piers, but only stumps of the ribs remain at the springing -of the vaults.</p> - -<p>The windows of the side aisles, which are lofty (see <a href="#fig_890">Fig. 890</a>), have -been provided with tracery, having rather elaborate cusping. Many<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_494" id="page_494">{494}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_889" id="fig_889"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_494.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_494.png" width="640" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 889.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_495" id="page_495">{495}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_890" id="fig_890"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_495.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_495.png" width="449" height="570" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 890.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. The Choir, from -the South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">parts of the building, such as the gargoyles, label terminals, caps, &c. -are ornamented with grotesque carvings of various kinds of animals,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_496" id="page_496">{496}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_891" id="fig_891"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_496.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_496.png" width="388" height="679" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 891.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. South Side of -Choir and East Side of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_497" id="page_497">{497}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">foliage, &c. (see <a href="#fig_896">Fig. 896</a>). The tracery in the large pointed east -window is modern.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_892" id="fig_892"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_497.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_497.png" width="428" height="571" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 892.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. North Side of -Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_498" id="page_498">{498}</a></span></p> - -<p>On the north side of the choir a chapel has been built in the -seventeenth century to contain the monuments of the Lauderdale family—a -fine specimen of Renaissance work.<a name="FNanchor_173_173" id="FNanchor_173_173"></a><a href="#Footnote_173_173" class="fnanchor">[173]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_893" id="fig_893"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_498.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_498.png" width="453" height="425" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 893.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. View from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The nave appears to have been originally of the same design as the -choir; but about the beginning of this century it underwent considerable -repairs and improvements, which greatly altered the character of the -design, both externally and internally. As it was desired to introduce -galleries in the side aisles, it was found necessary to raise the height -of the main piers and arches. This was effected by taking off the caps, -carrying up the piers for 6 feet 4 inches, and putting the caps on -again,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_499" id="page_499">{499}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_894" id="fig_894"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_499.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_499.png" width="446" height="535" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 894.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. South Transept -and Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the arches being also taken down and rebuilt at the new height, as shown -in Fig. 892. The outer walls of the aisles were also carried up about 3 -feet, the buttresses being heightened at the same time, and finished -with new pinnacles of a totally different design from the old ones<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_500" id="page_500">{500}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_895" id="fig_895"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_500.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_500.png" width="469" height="606" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 895.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_501" id="page_501">{501}</a></span></p> - -<p>(<a href="#fig_893">Fig. 893</a>), some of which still remain on the buttresses of the choir -(<a href="#fig_894">Fig. 894</a>). The latter are in character with the pinnacles of the late -pointed period in Scotland, while the new pinnacles of the nave are of a -quite different description. At the time of these alterations the -opportunity was taken to introduce a perforated and crenellated parapet, -evidently copied from some English example.</p> - -<p>These alterations were only carried out in 1811, but the white stone -used being of a soft character, the work has now a weather-worn and -ancient appearance, which renders the distinction between the old and -new work somewhat difficult. The drawing of the church by Grose, and a -view in Dr. Barclay’s paper in the <i>Proceedings of the Society of -Antiquaries of Scotland</i>, show the condition of the nave before the -alterations of 1811 took place, proving that the buttresses, &c., then -erected are new.</p> - -<p>The west front (see <a href="#fig_893">Fig. 893</a>) has, fortunately, not been so much -interfered with. This elevation is specially characteristic of Scottish -design. It contains the main doorway of the building (<a href="#fig_895">Fig. 895</a>), in -which the circular arch (so often employed, especially in the doorways -of Scottish churches) is used; but it is enriched with the mouldings and -ornaments of the late decorated style (see <a href="#fig_896">Fig. 896</a>). The mouldings and -foliage of the caps are specially striking and characteristic, while the -large leaves introduced amongst the arch mouldings are somewhat late in -design. The large arch is divided into two smaller openings by a central -pillar, the cap of which is of good design. It contains a shield (see -<a href="#fig_896">Fig. 896</a>), surrounded with foliage, on which are carved the crown of -thorns, with a heart in the centre, and two hands and feet and the -nails, all emblems of the Passion.</p> - -<p>Above the west doorway there is a very large pointed window (see -<a href="#fig_893">Fig. 893</a>), filled with mullions and tracery. The wide opening is divided into -two sections by a large central mullion, branching into two arches at -top; and these subdivisions each contain smaller tracery. It has been -suggested that this west window has been heightened, the jambs being so -low up to the caps and the pointed arch above so high; but there is no -apparent alteration to justify this view. This form of window is not -infrequent in late Scottish architecture, as at Paisley transept, Seton -Chapel, &c.</p> - -<p>The parapet above the window is evidently modern, and the gable has -doubtless been heightened.</p> - -<p>This part of the church has recently undergone a fresh restoration, but -it consisted almost entirely of the removal of the galleries in the -aisles and new seating in the centre. The pillars and arches of the -interior have been allowed to remain at the high level to which they -were heightened during the previous restoration; and it is fairly -questionable whether they are not more effective as altered than when -they stood at the original lower level.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_502" id="page_502">{502}</a></span></p> - -<p>The aisles having been originally vaulted, the old vault stood at the -former low level. The ancient wall rib was, therefore, at that level, -but was chipped off during the restoration. The stones which composed -the wall rib can still be traced in the walls in both aisles (see -<a href="#fig_892">Fig. 892</a>). The string course over the main arches was originally at the same -height as in the choir, but had to be chipped off. Traces of it can -still be seen. The heightening of the piers had also the effect of -cutting off the lower part of the vaulting shafts, thus depriving them -of the base which they have in the choir. The old vaulting was -necessarily removed when the aisles were heightened, and the church is -now vaulted in plaster.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_896" id="fig_896"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_502.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_502.png" width="409" height="373" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 896.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington.</p> - -<p>1, 2, and 3. Details of West Doorway. 4. Cap of Shaft, Nave Clerestory.<br /> -5. Jamb of West Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tracery of the windows of the nave has been renewed, and is entirely -without cusping.</p> - -<p>The transept has been to some extent destroyed, especially at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_503" id="page_503">{503}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_897" id="fig_897"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_503.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_503.png" width="449" height="586" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 897.</span>—The Parish Church, Haddington. North Transept -and Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_504" id="page_504">{504}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">north end, the north wall being demolished. The corbels and wall ribs -(<a href="#fig_897">Fig. 897</a>) show how each end was divided into two bays, and that the -whole was vaulted. Owing to the absence of aisles, the transept walls, -which have few windows, have a heavy aspect, especially externally, -where the blank wall is not much relieved by the buttresses employed. -This is seen in the view of the south transept (see <a href="#fig_894">Fig. 894</a>).</p> - -<p>The tower over the crossing (see <a href="#fig_894">Fig. 894</a>) is one of the most effective -parts of the structure. It is about 30 feet square, and rises above the -church as a square-angled structure, without buttresses or breaks. It -has a lofty triple window in each face, each opening being crowned with -a semicircular arch, and divided in the centre by an ornamental transom.</p> - -<p>On each side of the tower two niches, with carved canopies and corbels -(but now without statues), occupy the plain space between the windows -and the corners of the structure.</p> - -<p>Originally the tower was crowned with a canopy or spire of open work, -similar to those which still exist at St. Giles’, Edinburgh, and King’s -College, Aberdeen, and also that which formerly crowned the tower of -Linlithgow Church. A slight corbelled break in the centre of each face -of the tower indicates that a rib sprang from the centre of each face, -as well as the angles of the tower, thus producing the effect of an -octagonal crown, as at St. Giles’. Large picturesque gargoyles still -break the line of the cornice on top.</p> - -<p>The whole church seems to have been designed and constructed at the same -period—probably about the middle of the fifteenth century. The choir -and nave were almost identical in their general features as originally -executed; and the details of the piers, mouldings, bases, caps, &c., are -very similar in both divisions. The style of the carved foliage is also -similar in each, and bears the stamp of Scottish decorated work, but -rather late in the style.</p> - -<p>As an indication that the building was completed about the middle of the -fifteenth century, there occur in the “Buke of Auld Register of -Haidinton”<a name="FNanchor_174_174" id="FNanchor_174_174"></a><a href="#Footnote_174_174" class="fnanchor">[174]</a> many entries of gifts of chalices and other furnishings -made to the various altars in the church, extending from 1423 to 1463, -showing that “more than ordinary interest had been taken in the ‘Paroche -Kirk.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p> - -<p>The altars were the following:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0"> -<tr valign="top"><td style="text-align:left;text-indent:0%;"> -1. Our Lady Altar.<br /> -2. Haly Blude Altar.<br /> -3. St. Blaise’s Altar.<br /> -4. St. John’s Altar.<br /> -5. The Three Kings of Cologne.<br /> -6. St. Salvator’s Altar.</td><td style="text-align:left;text-indent:0%;"> -7. St. Katrine’s Altar.<br /> -8. St. Mychael’s Altar.<br /> -9. St. Towbart’s Altar.<br /> -10. Crispin and Crispianus.<br /> -11. Trinity Altar.<a name="FNanchor_175_175" id="FNanchor_175_175"></a><a href="#Footnote_175_175" class="fnanchor">[175]</a> -</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>At the Reformation the possessions of the church and chapel dependent on -it fell to Queen Mary’s brother, the Earl of Moray, who was Prior of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_505" id="page_505">{505}</a></span> -St. Andrews. They were afterwards seized by the Earl of Morton, and, at -his forfeiture, passed to the Crown. They were next presented by James -<small>VI.</small> to his favourite, Esmé, Duke of Lennox, as a temporal lordship; and -ultimately came into the hands of the Earl of Hopetoun.</p> - -<p>It has already been mentioned that the building of the church does not -appear to have suffered from any outbreak at the Reformation; but the -fabric has been damaged to a considerable extent. The town was subjected -to a siege in 1548, when it was held by the English after the battle of -Pinkie, and was attacked and taken by the Scots and their French allies. -It is not unlikely that the church may have suffered damage at that -time, as it is stated that certain of the chapels did.</p> - -<h3>BALMERINO ABBEY,<a name="FNanchor_176_176" id="FNanchor_176_176"></a><a href="#Footnote_176_176" class="fnanchor">[176]</a> <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The few fragments which survive of this once extensive structure stand -on a height overlooking the Frith of Tay from its south or Fife shore, -about three or four miles south-west from Dundee.</p> - -<p>The Cistercian Abbey of Balmerino was founded in the year 1229 by Queen -Ermengard, widow of William the Lion, and her son, Alexander <small>II.</small> The -foundation charter by the latter is dated 3rd February 1230-1. The abbey -was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and to the most holy King Edward.</p> - -<p>Queen Ermengard obtained possession of the adjoining lands in the year -1225, and it is supposed that building operations were commenced -immediately after the foundation, as on the 13th December 1229, the -original colony of monks for Balmerino set out from Melrose under the -guidance of Alan, the first abbot. The building must probably then have -made some progress to be in a fit state for their occupation. Ermengard -died in 1233 and was buried in the church, and, according to -Spottiswoode, her place of sepulture was before the high altar. She was -a liberal benefactress to the abbey, and Alexander, her son, took a -continued interest in its affairs after her death, and was a frequent -visitor at Balmerino. During the time of Ralph, the second abbot -(1236-1251), the abbey received the first confirmation of its privileges -and possessions from Pope Innocent <small>IV.</small> It is undated, but the Rev. Dr. -Campbell, in his account of the abbey, assigns its date to between 1242 -and 1246. About the last decade of the thirteenth century, Hugo of Nydie -grants the use of his quarry of Nydie to the abbey, and also a toft, -with the privilege of grazing on the common pasture of Nydie. Dr. -Campbell conjectures that as the journey between the quarry and -Balmerino was too long to be per<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_506" id="page_506">{506}</a></span>formed both ways on the same day, the -toft would form the lodging for the men, and the pasturage for the -draught animals. In this connection William of Burglyn grants “that old -road through his land of Burthlyn, by which the monks were wont to go -with their carts and other carriages to the quarry of Nidyn;” and -further, “if it shall happen that the carts and waggons of the monks -shall at any time halt at the ford of Burglyn on account of any -hindrance in crossing, he grants them permission in such a case to -unyoke and feed their beasts there, and, if necessary, to stay over the -night.”<a name="FNanchor_177_177" id="FNanchor_177_177"></a><a href="#Footnote_177_177" class="fnanchor">[177]</a></p> - -<p>Beyond the above facts, there is no information whatever preserved that -has any bearing on the history of the erection of the abbey buildings. -No contracts are referred to, nor in its records is the name of any -particular abbot associated with the building of any part of the abbey. -The next recorded event in connection with the structure is its -destruction, or partial destruction, during Somerset’s invasion in 1547, -when Admiral Thomas Wyndham, on the night of the 25th December, assailed -the monastery, and in the words of his own report,<a name="FNanchor_178_178" id="FNanchor_178_178"></a><a href="#Footnote_178_178" class="fnanchor">[178]</a> “he bornt the -abbey with all thyngs that wer in it.” This damage was, doubtless, to a -certain extent repaired; but a more serious encounter was approaching. -In 1559 Balmerino suffered the usual fate of similar establishments. The -Earl of Argyle and the Prior of St. Andrews, having destroyed the -churches of St. Andrews, “convened a great company of countrymen and -passed to the abbeys of Lindores and Balmerino, the Parish Kirks within -Fife, and did the like.”<a name="FNanchor_179_179" id="FNanchor_179_179"></a><a href="#Footnote_179_179" class="fnanchor">[179]</a> Bishop Leslie ascribes the demolition of -the abbey to “certain most worthless men, of the common people.”</p> - -<p>As usually happened in connection with all the other abbeys at this -period, a nobleman or Court favourite was appointed commendator, who -drew two-thirds of the revenue, the remainder being reserved for the -reformed minister and the Crown. John Hay, descended from the family of -Naughton (a large property in the neighbourhood), was appointed -commendator in 1561. The office was resigned into the king’s hands in -1605, whereupon the abbacy was converted into a temporal lordship, in -favour of Sir James Elphinstone, with the title of Lord Balmerino.</p> - -<p>The abbey buildings (<a href="#fig_898">Fig. 898</a>) are in a very ruinous state, only the -chapter house with the erections adjoining it being at all well -preserved. The north wall of the nave with the west wall of the north -transept remain throughout their whole length for about 5 feet above the -ground. In the month of March 1896, the Rev. Dr. Campbell was allowed by -the proprietor to make some excavations, and as the result of a few -days’ work sufficient remains were disclosed to enable a fairly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_507" id="page_507">{507}</a></span> -accurate plan of the church to be made. And if the work of excavation -were carried further, the rubbish removed, and most of the trees cut -down which at present crowd the site, there is no doubt but that a much -more complete plan of the church and abbey would be disclosed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_898" id="fig_898"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_507.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_507.png" width="448" height="452" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 898.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church is situated, as at the mother church of Melrose, on the south -side of the cloister. It consisted of a nave with a south aisle (there -being no north aisle), transepts with the usual eastern aisle, and a -short presbytery without aisles. The internal dimensions of the church -were as follows:—Total length from east to west about 206 feet, width -of nave<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_508" id="page_508">{508}</a></span> about 45 feet, length of transepts and crossing about 98 feet, -width of transept (including the east aisle) about 46 feet, and width of -presbytery about 25 feet.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_899" id="fig_899"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_508.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_508.png" width="141" height="75" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 899.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Plan of Piers and Responds.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Three of the vaulting shafts of the nave exist against the north wall -(their section is shown in <a href="#fig_899">Fig. 899</a>); but they are so situated as to -give an unequal division to the bays. Until the ivy is stripped from the -walls, and the accumulated debris of centuries is removed from the -floor, nothing more definite can be ascertained regarding them; but -assuming that two of the responds are in their proper places at a -distance of 20 feet apart—of which there seems to be no doubt—this -would give a nave of six bays. In the line of the nave piers various -foundations have been laid bare, as shown on Plan. Beginning at the west -end a foundation projects inwards 5 feet; next it there is a cross wall -about 10 feet in length; then further to the east, two foundations as if -for piers, and next them the great south-east pier of the crossing, one -side of which is quite entire and is shown in Fig. 899. It measures -along the diagonal face 6 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 7 inches across. -There were three such piers, the fourth (see <a href="#fig_899">Fig. 899</a>) being made up -with the responds at the junction of the nave and transept walls at the -north-west corner of the crossing. Each transept probably contained two -bays. The respond against the north transept wall still exists.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_509" id="page_509">{509}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_900" id="fig_900"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_509-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_509-a.png" width="141" height="75" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 900.</span>—Balmerino Abbey.<br /> Plan of West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The west doorway (<a href="#fig_900">Fig. 900</a>) was evidently one of considerable -importance. It was a double doorway, 8 feet 8 inches wide, the central -pillar being about 14 inches square; only the merest fragment of the -base of the doorway has been unearthed. The ingoing probably extended -with a wide splay outwards, decorated with shafts, the base of one of -these being in situ. The south-west corner of the church is one of the -best preserved fragments. It consists of a deeply splayed base of -beautiful masonry, with an angle buttress, measuring 7 feet on each -face, with a projection of nearly 5 feet. This buttress probably -contained a wheel stair for access to the roof. The north-west corner -has not been cleared of rubbish. At the south-east corners of the -transept and of the presbytery there are foundations (as shown on Plan), -of which at present nothing definite can be made. The details of the -church indicate a building in the first pointed style of the thirteenth -century.</p> - -<p>Entering from the south transept is the sacristy, a chamber 32 feet 4 -inches long by 23 feet wide, covered with a round barrel vault. All the -buildings to the north of the church appear to have been to a greater or -less extent altered and adapted by the commendators, in order to form a -mansion house, so that they do not now quite represent their original -condition.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_901" id="fig_901"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_509-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_509-b.png" width="232" height="136" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 901.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Plan of Charter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>To the north of the sacristy is the chapter house, with a doorway -between them, which is not original. This has been a very fine -apartment, measuring about 56 feet long by about 27 feet 3 inches wide. -It is divided into two compartments, the eastern compartment being the -chapter house proper, and the western the vestibule (see <a href="#fig_901">Fig. 901</a>). The -eastern half is probably of a slightly later date than the western half. -It was vaulted, like the western half, with groined vaulting, but at a -much higher level and with arches of a much greater span, having had one -central pillar instead of the two in the older part. The central pillar -is entirely gone; and of the high vaulting only the wall ribs, with the -corbels from which the ribs sprang, remain (see <a href="#fig_902">Fig. 902</a>). From the -indications of the ribs which remain, the vaulting has been restored in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_510" id="page_510">{510}</a></span> -dotted lines. It is quite obvious from <a href="#fig_902">Fig. 902</a> that this vaulting was -removed to admit of an upper room at the lower level of the western -vault.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_902" id="fig_902"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_510.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_510.png" width="507" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 902.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Chapter House, from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The western division or vestibule (<a href="#fig_903">Fig. 903</a>) has two octagonal centre -pillars, with no wall responds in a line with them, the vaulting at the -wall springing from rounded corbels; eastwards, there are two larger -octagonal pillars with responds. The height of the pillars is about 7 -feet 10 inches, and to the apex of the vaulting the height is about 14 -feet 9 inches.</p> - -<p>The western wall of the chapter house is gone, and only some portions of -a later wall remain. Owing to this the western compartments of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_511" id="page_511">{511}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_903" id="fig_903"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_511.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_511.png" width="563" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 903.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Chapter House, from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_512" id="page_512">{512}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">vaulting have fallen, all except the part shown by strong lines at the -south side of this compartment, which merely holds together by the -tenacity of the mortar. Unless means are shortly taken to support this -fragment, it will soon give way and come to the ground. There was a -continuous seat round the entire chapter house. The recesses at the east -end on the north side are modern (<a href="#fig_904">Fig. 904</a>).</p> - -<p>The east wall of the chapter house (<a href="#fig_905">Fig. 905</a>) still remains; it contains -two windows, having square heads, built with radiating stones, and -probably had mullions with tracery. The southmost of these windows was, -in the later occupation, converted into a doorway, with fan lights over -(see <a href="#fig_905">Fig. 905</a>).</p> - -<p>During this period the chapter house formed a part of the residence, the -eastern part being a hall, with some kind of screen or division between -the pillars and the responds, and having a door through the northern -archway, of which door the ends of the stone lintel still remain on each -side. A large fireplace was constructed at the centre arch, and the -chimney flue still remains, as shown on the Plan of the vaulting (see -<a href="#fig_901">Fig. 901</a>), with the ribs crossing the flue. About this time the wheel -staircase, seen projecting into the cloister, was probably built. The -chapter house finishes on the top with a row of corbels similar to what -is seen on the pele towers; but the whole is so covered with ivy and -abundant vegetation on the roof that further elucidation of this part of -the building is impossible.</p> - -<p>The details of the chapter house, as seen in the vaulting and the carved -work of the caps of the piers and corbels (<a href="#fig_906">Fig. 906</a>), belong, probably, -to the first half of the fifteenth century. Adjoining the chapter house -is a vaulted apartment about 28 feet 9 inches long by 11 feet 6 inches -wide, and provided with a seat on either side. It is entered from the -east by a pointed doorway, and is unlighted by any windows. It was -probably the slype. To the north of this is the last building of the -eastern range, which is believed to be the penitentiary. It contains -three cells; the eastmost one, which enters from a hatchway in the -vaulted roof, measures about 8 feet by 6 feet, and is lofty. It was -lighted with a small window, and probably contained a garde-robe. The -adjoining cell shown on the Ground Plan is divided into two—a lower and -an upper cell, the latter entering from a hatchway in the roof, and the -former being some steps down from the ground level. The lower cell is -provided with a stone seat on each side, and so, perhaps, are the -others; but they are so encumbered with rubbish that their details -cannot be made out.</p> - -<p>Of the other buildings surrounding the cloister nothing remains except -the indications of the inner wall of the west wing, shown by dotted -lines on Plan, which gives a breadth to the garth, from east to west, of -about 104 feet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_513" id="page_513">{513}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_904" id="fig_904"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_513.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_513.png" width="602" height="436" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 904.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Chapter House, from -South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_514" id="page_514">{514}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_905" id="fig_905"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_514.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_514.png" width="460" height="617" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 905.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. South-East Angle of Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_515" id="page_515">{515}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_906" id="fig_906"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_515.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_515.png" width="359" height="459" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 906.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. Details of Piers of Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is quite possible that the present farmhouse is on the site, if it -did not form a part, of the north-west corner of the cloister. To the -north of this house there still remains a portion of the old granary, -now part of the modern farm-steading. It contains two doorways, one with -a splayed and pointed arch, and the other much wider, having a rounded -top. The west gable, as seen above a modern roof, is constructed as a -dovecot with nests, similar to what is found at Cambuskenneth. On the -skew putt at the north side of the gable there is a coat of arms -(<a href="#fig_907">Fig. 907</a>), two bars embattled. There is no known coat quite similar to this. -A richly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_516" id="page_516">{516}</a></span> moulded and embattled finial terminates this gable, but it is -broken and mutilated. Another coat of arms, built into the modern walls -of the farm-steading, and shown by Fig. 908, is also unknown, as -likewise are the initials.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_907" id="fig_907"></a><a name="fig_908" id="fig_908"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_516-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_516-a.png" width="373" height="180" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 907.</span>—Balmerino Abbey.<br /> Arms on Skew Putt of Barn.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 908.</span>—Balmerino Abbey.<br /> Dormer in Farm Building. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_909" id="fig_909"></a><a name="fig_910" id="fig_910"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_516-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_516-b.png" width="430" height="299" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 909.</span>—Balmerino Abbey.<br /> Figure of Ecclesiastic.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 910.</span>—Balmerino Abbey. <br />Figure in Armour. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_517" id="page_517">{517}</a></span></p> - -<p>To the east of the chapter house, at a distance of about 90 feet, are -the ruins of what is called on the Plan the abbot’s house. What remains -consists of a vaulted cellar, measuring on the inside about 18 feet 2 -inches by 15 feet 7 inches, and separated by a thick wall from a similar -apartment on the north, which only in part survives. How far this -structure extended it is impossible to say. It is constructed of good -masonry, the doorway between the apartments being finely wrought; and it -evidently was an important building.</p> - -<p>Adjoining this house, two sculptured figures—one of an ecclesiastic and -the other in mail armour (<a href="#fig_909">Figs. 909</a> and <a href="#fig_910">910</a>)<a name="FNanchor_180_180" id="FNanchor_180_180"></a><a href="#Footnote_180_180" class="fnanchor">[180]</a>—are stuck into the -ground. The first has probably been a recumbent figure on a tomb, and -the other is an isolated upright figure, the back being as carefully -wrought as the front.</p> - -<p>A laudable effort has been made to preserve the ruins by enclosing them -with a lofty fence; but much might yet be done by way of preservation -and disclosure by excavation.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL, ROTHESAY CASTLE, <span class="smcap">Buteshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_911" id="fig_911"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_517.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_517.png" width="347" height="230" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 911.</span>—Chapel, Rothesay Castle. Plan.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p>In the description of Rothesay Castle<a name="FNanchor_181_181" id="FNanchor_181_181"></a><a href="#Footnote_181_181" class="fnanchor">[181]</a> the plan of the ground floor -of the chapel is shown standing within the courtyard, and at right -angles to the east wall of enceinte. The chapel itself, however, was on -the upper floor of this building, which is two stories in height. The -chapel (<a href="#fig_911">Fig. 911</a>)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_518" id="page_518">{518}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_912" id="fig_912"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_518.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_518.png" width="640" height="352" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 912.</span>—Chapel, Rothesay Castle. View from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_519" id="page_519">{519}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">is 30 feet in length by 20 feet in width internally. The west wall is -now much broken down, so that in the view from the north-west (<a href="#fig_912">Fig. 912</a>) -there is seen the exterior of the north side and the interior of the -south side. The chapel has been lighted by two windows in the north and -two windows in the south wall, all towards the east end. About the -middle of the structure there is a small window in each of the north and -south walls, and further westwards the entrance doorway occurs in the -south wall. The doorway is still pretty complete, and has a round arch -and splayed jambs. Being at the height of one story from the ground, it -must have been approached by an outside staircase, probably somewhat in -the manner shown by dotted lines on Plan.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_913" id="fig_913"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_519.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_519.png" width="304" height="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 913.</span>—Chapel, Rothesay Castle. Windows in North -Wall.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_520" id="page_520">{520}</a></span></p> - -<p>There is no window in the east wall, as a window in that position would -have been blocked by the staircase leading to the battlements on the -outer wall of the fortress. The eastern part of the church, however, is -amply lighted by the two large windows on each side. These windows -(<a href="#fig_913">Fig. 913</a>) are pointed, and each had a central mullion and simple branching -tracery. The mouldings consist of simple splays. There is a piscina in -the south wall of the chancel to the east of the eastern window.</p> - -<p>The small windows in the side walls are pointed, and may have lit altars -at the rood screen. The western portion of the chapel had probably a -window in the west wall.</p> - -<p>The whole structure is simple, but massive. There are few features by -which the date may be fixed, but it seems most probable that it was -erected towards the end of the fourteenth century, when the castle was -enlarged and frequently occupied by Kings Robert <small>II.</small> and <small>III.</small></p> - -<h3>ST. BRIDGET’S <small>OR</small> ST. BRIDE’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Douglas, Lanarkshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The town of Douglas, in the parish of the same name, stands in the Upper -Ward of Lanarkshire, about 3½ miles south from Douglas Station, on the -Lesmahagow branch of the Caledonian Railway. The town and castle are -closely connected with the great Douglas family, several members of -which are buried in the church, and have sumptuous monuments erected -therein to their memory.</p> - -<p>The church of Douglas existed in the twelfth century, but the present -structure is of considerably later date. Douglas Church belonged to -Kelso Abbey. In the end of the fourteenth century it was made a prebend -of Glasgow Cathedral. The ancient church here, in 1307, played an -important part in one of the bold feats of the Good Sir James Douglas in -the time of Bruce. The English garrison of Douglas Castle, being -assembled in the church, were attacked by Sir James, and were all -killed.</p> - -<p>The church, of which some fragments are still preserved, was doubtless -destroyed during the troublous times of the War of Independence. The -present structure, of which little but the choir remains, appears to -have been built about the end of the fourteenth century. Its -architecture is very simple, all the rybats and mullions having plain -splays instead of mouldings.</p> - -<p>The choir (<a href="#fig_914">Fig. 914</a>) measures, internally, 40 feet in length by 17 feet -4 inches in width, and has no aisles. There has at one time been a nave, -the large arch to which, though built up, is visible in the wall between -the nave and choir.</p> - -<p>The central part of the nave has entirely disappeared, and its space<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_521" id="page_521">{521}</a></span> -now forms part of the churchyard. There remains, however, what has -apparently been the south aisle of the nave. It has been connected with -the central aisle by two arches, the central pillar and west respond of -which still survive, though built up with modern masonry. This aisle is -about 38 feet in length by 20 feet in width over the walls. In the -north-east angle of the aisle a square turret, about 10 feet over the -walls, has been erected.</p> - -<p>The choir contains a large three-light window in the east end -(<a href="#fig_915">Fig. 915</a>), having two mullions, which form three smaller pointed arches -within the large arch-head. In the south side there are three similar -windows, but smaller, the central one having the sill kept very high, -and being thus of a stunted appearance.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_914" id="fig_914"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_521.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_521.png" width="438" height="239" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 914.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The monument in the south side, which contains the effigies of James, -seventh Earl of Douglas, and his wife, has required a break to be formed -in the wall on the exterior, so as to allow breadth for the two figures -under the canopy.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the choir is by a modernised doorway in the north wall, -close to the west end. On entering one is struck by the fine appearance -of the large monuments (<a href="#fig_916">Fig. 916</a>), especially those on the left or north -side. These monuments, as well as the whole building, have evidently -been considerably repaired within recent years. Until about fifteen -years ago the church was in a miserable condition, the windows being -built up, so that the monuments could only be seen by lamp light. The -building stood open, and the school children (the schoolhouse being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_522" id="page_522">{522}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_915" id="fig_915"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_522.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_522.png" width="619" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 915.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. View from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_523" id="page_523">{523}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">near) used it as a place to play in. It is, therefore, no wonder that -the fine monuments and effigies suffered damage. The whole have been</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_916" id="fig_916"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_523.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_523.png" width="441" height="553" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 916.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Interior -of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_524" id="page_524">{524}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_917" id="fig_917"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_524.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_524.png" width="420" height="629" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 917.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -of the Good Sir James Douglas.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_525" id="page_525">{525}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">repaired by Lord Home, and are now in excellent condition, and a new -roof has been placed on the building.</p> - -<p>The oldest monument is, doubtless, that in the north wall (<a href="#fig_917">Fig. 917</a>), -near the doorway. It is traditionally ascribed to the Good Sir James, -the staunch adherent and companion in arms of Bruce. He died in Spain, -in 1331, when on his way to the Holy Land with the heart of King Robert. -The tomb contains a broken effigy, having a shield on the left side, and -with hands drawing his sword, but the right arm is broken off. The legs -have been crossed, but the upper limb is broken off by the knee. The -head rests on a cushion and the feet against a mutilated animal, -probably a lion. This monument is illustrated by Blore in his -<i>Monumental Remains</i>, and the effigy is pronounced by him to be of a -date anterior to the time of Sir James. The canopy is of a much later -period, probably fifteenth century.<a name="FNanchor_182_182" id="FNanchor_182_182"></a><a href="#Footnote_182_182" class="fnanchor">[182]</a> It comprises a large pointed -arch with fine detached and freely cut cusping, surmounted by a -crocketed label moulding of ogee form, terminating in a large finial, -which reaches to the top of the wall of the church. A buttress on each -side, set diagonally, encloses the monument. Each buttress has a tall -crocketed pinnacle and foliaged finial. The shield in the spandril of -the canopy contains the heart, an addition to the Douglas Arms, made in -consequence of Sir James’s mission to the Holy Land with Bruce’s heart.</p> - -<p>To the east of the above monument in the north wall is that of -Archibald, fifth Earl of Douglas (<a href="#fig_918">Fig. 918</a>), who died in 1438. He was -the son of Archibald, fourth Earl, who distinguished himself in the -service of Charles <small>VII.</small> of France, and received therefor the Duchy of -Touraine, in 1423. This Earl was killed, along with most of his Scottish -followers, at the battle of Verneuil, 1424. Archibald, the fifth Earl, -after serving for some time in France, returned home and died of fever -in 1438.</p> - -<p>The effigy which lies within the monument is habited in robes of state, -and wears a ducal coronet. In the left hand was probably a baton of -office, and the right hand holds together the cord which fastens the -mantle. The feet rest on a lion couchant. Round the waist is a broad -ornamental belt. Round the margin of the slab was formerly an -inscription, now nearly obliterated, which Godscroft gives as follows:—</p> - -<p><small>HIC · JACET · ARCHIBALDUS · DE · DOUGLAS · DUX · TOURENIAE · COMES DE · -DOUGLAS · ET · LONGUEVILLE · DOMINUS · GALLOVIDIAE · WIGTONIAE · ET -ANNANDIAE · LOCUM · TENENS · REGIS · SCOTIE · OBIIT · XXVIº · DIE · -MENSIS IUNII · ANNO · DOMINI · MILLESIMO · QUARINGENTESIMO · TRICESIMO · -OCTAVO.</small><a name="FNanchor_183_183" id="FNanchor_183_183"></a><a href="#Footnote_183_183" class="fnanchor">[183]</a></p> - -<p>The effigy rests on a tomb, the front of which is divided into six -panels, each containing a small figure, probably representing the family -of the deceased. The figures stand on small pedestals, and are -surmounted with ornamental canopies. Over the tomb is a somewhat flat -arch of ogee form,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_526" id="page_526">{526}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_918" id="fig_918"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_526.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_526.png" width="432" height="569" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 918.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -of Archibald, Fifth Earl of Douglas.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">with enriched mouldings, having a crocketed hood terminating in an -enriched finial. At either side are two small buttresses, each -containing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_527" id="page_527">{527}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_919" id="fig_919"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_527.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_527.png" width="469" height="538" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 919.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -of James, Seventh Earl of Douglas.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">a small statue and covered with a crocketed pinnacle. A parapet, pierced -with quatrefoils, and which has been considerably renewed, runs along -the top. On the wall at the back of the arched recess a figure, -kneeling<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_528" id="page_528">{528}</a></span> at an altar, is carved. A small shield over the altar bears -the Douglas arms, and the scroll carried an inscription, now -obliterated.</p> - -<p>In Blore’s time this monument was sadly destroyed, and the small figures -were scattered over the floor, but they have now been replaced and the -monument restored.</p> - -<p>The base of the monument bears an ornament of sculptured foliage, very -closely resembling that on the two eastern pillars of St. Giles’, -Edinburgh, the work on both being probably of about the same period, -about the middle of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_920" id="fig_920"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_528.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_528.png" width="216" height="420" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 920.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church.<br /> -Effigies -of James, Seventh Earl of Douglas,<br /> and Beatrice de Sinclair.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the south wall of the choir there is a third monument (<a href="#fig_919">Fig. 919</a>), -which contains recumbent figures of James, seventh Earl of Douglas, and -Beatrice de Sinclair, his wife (<a href="#fig_920">Fig. 920</a>). The former is in armour, but -the statue is much broken. The latter wears a long robe. The heads rest -on cushions, and the hands are clasped in the attitude of prayer. In the -face of the tomb are ten niches containing upright figures of the sons -and daughters of the Earl and Countess, and one niche containing an -angel, who supports a shield blazoned with the Douglas and Sinclair -arms. Above the figures was the following inscription:—“Hic jacet -magnus et potens princeps Dominus Jacobus de Douglas Dux Toureniae et -Comes de Douglas Dominus Annandiae Gallovidiae Liddaliae Jedburg -Forestiae et Dominus de Balveniae Magnus Wardanus Regni Scotiae versus -Angliam, &c., qui obiit 24 die mensis Martii anno domini 1443.”<a name="FNanchor_184_184" id="FNanchor_184_184"></a><a href="#Footnote_184_184" class="fnanchor">[184]</a></p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_921" id="fig_921"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_528-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_528-b.png" width="127" height="79" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 921.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Crocket -and Finial of Monument.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_529" id="page_529">{529}</a></span></p> - -<p>This Earl was the brother of the forementioned Archibald, sixth Earl, to -whom he succeeded after the murder, in Edinburgh Castle, of Archibald’s -two sons. He was called “Le Gros” on account of his corpulence, and -seems to have been a “prudent and peaceable man.”</p> - -<p>The inscription for his lady was as follows:—“Hic jacit Domina Beatrix -de Sinclair filia domini Henrici Comitis Arcadum Domini de Sinclair, &c. -Comitessa de Douglas et Aveniae Domina Gallovidiae.”</p> - -<p>On the east side of these inscriptions was a stone, on which were -recorded the names and titles of the sons and daughters.</p> - -<p>“This inscription enables us to fix the date of the erection of the -monument—viz., between 1448, when Archibald was made Earl of Moray, and -1451, when James, the eldest son, was killed.”<a name="FNanchor_185_185" id="FNanchor_185_185"></a><a href="#Footnote_185_185" class="fnanchor">[185]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_922" id="fig_922"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_529.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_529.png" width="450" height="223" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 922.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Monument -in South-West Angle of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As already mentioned, the outer wall has been extended so as to give -width for the tomb. The arch of the canopy is flat and low, so that the -space is dark at the back. The label is enriched with crockets, which -run up into a foliaged finial of late character (<a href="#fig_921">Fig. 921</a>). Over this a -shield, bearing the Douglas Arms, surmounted by a helmet with a peacock -for crest, and covered with a small enriched string course, is inserted -in the wall. In a niche in the wall on either side of the shield there -have been “wild men” as supporters, but one of these has been removed.</p> - -<p>This monument is evidently of a later date than those on the north side, -and is inferior in design and execution, as might be expected from its -date.</p> - -<p>To the west of the above monument, and in the extreme south-west<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_530" id="page_530">{530}</a></span> angle -of the church, there lies an effigy (<a href="#fig_922">Fig. 922</a>) of beautiful workmanship -and of an early date. It is apparently a female figure, the arms and -head of which are damaged. The feet rest upon a bunch of foliage of -first pointed design, greatly worn away. Such a footing for the effigy -of a monument is rare in Scotland.</p> - -<p>In the east wall two circular headed recesses occur under the large -window, which may have been credence niches.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_923" id="fig_923"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_530.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_530.png" width="465" height="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 923.</span>—St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s Church. Norman -Fragments.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the south wall near the east end there is a double piscina in a -recess, having a trefoiled head. The basins are round plain sinkings.</p> - -<p>The nave appears to have been a structure of the same date as the choir. -The pillar between it and the south aisle seems to be of the fifteenth -century. At the east end of the south aisle there is a piscina in the -south wall, set in a trefoil headed recess, similar to that in the -choir.</p> - -<p>The turret in the north-east angle of the nave aisle is carried to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_531" id="page_531">{531}</a></span> -considerable height. It is octagonal in the upper stories; and the top -story, which forms the belfry, is pierced with eight small pointed -windows (see <a href="#fig_915">Fig. 915</a>), the mouldings round which form square frames -above the arch-heads. The turret is finished with an octagonal spire of -stone, and at the base of each angle of the spire there is a small stone -pinnacle, now much worn away.</p> - -<p>There still survive some fragments of carved work, which bear evidence -of the former existence of an ancient church in Douglas. These fragments -are portions of Norman capitals, which are piled up, as shown in the -sketch, (<a href="#fig_923">Fig. 923</a>), in the recess of the south aisle adjoining the -turret. One cap shows a face with a fierce moustache, and others are -good specimens of characteristic Norman design.</p> - -<h3>ST. BRIDE’S COLLEGIATE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Bothwell, Lanarkshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_924" id="fig_924"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_531.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_531.png" width="341" height="286" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 924.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This very interesting church was founded by Archibald the Grim, Earl of -Douglas, in 1398. He was proprietor of the great Castle of Bothwell in -the vicinity, and he dedicated the church to St. Bride, his patron -saint. The establishment was to consist of a provost and eight<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_532" id="page_532">{532}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_925" id="fig_925"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_532.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_532.png" width="439" height="327" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 925.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. View from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">prebendaries. In order to provide suitable accommodation, he added a -choir to the existing parish church, and granted to the establishment -sufficient resources. In this church the unfortunate Duke of Rothesay -was married to the Earl’s daughter Marjory, in the year 1400. The old -College Church is now attached to a new and larger modern parish church -which adjoins it on the west, but the College Church is not now used for -service. The structure is a simple oblong chamber (<a href="#fig_924">Fig. 924</a>), 55 feet in -length by 22 feet in width internally, with a sacristy on the north side -14 feet long by 10 feet wide. The church, externally divided by -buttresses, has four bays (<a href="#fig_925">Fig. 925</a>), with a series of pointed windows -in the south wall and three windows in the north wall. The east end is -square, and has one large pointed window with drop arch. The entrance -doorway (<a href="#fig_926">Fig. 926</a>) is in the south wall in the second bay from the west -end, under a window. The arch of the doorway is remarkable from being -elliptic in form. The mouldings of the arch are bold, but they are -destroyed on the jambs. A label mitring into a string course at top runs -round the arch. The windows are deeply splayed both inside and out, but -the tracery with which they were doubtless filled is now wanting. The -arch of the east window springs<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_533" id="page_533">{533}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_926" id="fig_926"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_533.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_533.png" width="431" height="622" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 926.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Entrance -Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_534" id="page_534">{534}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_927" id="fig_927"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_534.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_534.png" width="445" height="599" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 927.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Interior of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_535" id="page_535">{535}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_928" id="fig_928"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_535.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_535.png" width="356" height="444" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 928.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Doorway to -Sacristy.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">from a point considerably below the junction with the jambs, which gives -it a broken appearance. An inner moulding, finished with well wrought -bases, runs round the exterior of the windows. The roof of this church, -like that of so many erected at a somewhat later period, is covered with -overlapping stone slabs, which rest on a pointed barrel vault -(<a href="#fig_927">Fig. 927</a>), for the purpose of supporting it. This is the earliest example we -have met with of this form of vault, which became very common in the -churches of the following period. That at Lincluden, already referred -to, is similar, but had a groined vault beneath it. The vault is -ornamented with moulded ribs at intervals, springing from small moulded -corbels.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_536" id="page_536">{536}</a></span> There is also a ridge rib, and bosses occur at the junction -with the curved side ribs. The buttresses are simple in outline, and -have a deep series of set offs at top, and those next the doorway have -small cusped niches in the face of each. The stone work of the roof is -very carefully executed, every stone being curved so as to throw the -water away from the joints. The cornice is rather more prominent than -usual.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_929" id="fig_929"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_536.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_536.png" width="233" height="83" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 929.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Sedilia.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_930" id="fig_930"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_536-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_536-b.png" width="275" height="301" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 930.</span>—St. Bride’s Collegiate Church. Tombstone, with -Shield and Douglas Arms.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The entrance to the sacristy is by an unusually handsome doorway -(<a href="#fig_928">Fig. 928</a>), having two orders of shafts and mouldings. The carving of the caps -has been very fine, but is sadly damaged. In the sacristy there are a -piscina and a locker, and in the south wall of the choir the remains of -a triple beautifully carved sedilia (<a href="#fig_929">Fig. 929</a>) and a piscina. The -sacristy is roofed with overlapping stone flags, supported on a vault.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_537" id="page_537">{537}</a></span></p> - -<p>Some elaborate monuments have been erected in the church (see <a href="#fig_927">Fig. 927</a>) -in memory of the two Archibald Douglases, Earls of Forfar, one of whom -was mortally wounded at Sheriffmuir (1715).</p> - -<p>Some ancient carved stones are also preserved at the east end, one of -them being a tombstone containing a shield, with the original three -stars of the Douglas arms (<a href="#fig_930">Fig. 930</a>).</p> - -<h3>ST. DUTHUS’ CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Tain, Ross-shire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_931" id="fig_931"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_537.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_537.png" width="188" height="101" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 931.</span>—Old St. Duthus’ Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ancient town of Tain claims to have received its first privileges -from Malcolm Canmore in the eleventh century. It was also the site of an -early church, and St. Duthus, the patron saint of the town, is reputed -to have been the Bishop of Ross in the eleventh century. The existing -town stands at a point near the entrance to Dornoch Frith, on an ancient -sea margin, which rises above a great expanse of sandy links stretching -eastwards towards the sea. It possesses no less than three ancient -churches, all said to have been dedicated to St. Duthus. This saint -probably lived about the year 1000, and his remains are said to have -been translated to his native town of Tain in 1253.<a name="FNanchor_186_186" id="FNanchor_186_186"></a><a href="#Footnote_186_186" class="fnanchor">[186]</a> The most -ancient church (<a href="#fig_931">Fig. 931</a>) stands on a knoll which rises above the -general level of the links. It is now surrounded by a well kept modern -cemetery, and is at some distance from the town, but is believed to have -stood in the midst of the houses of the older Tain, which occupied the -low ground near the sea. This ancient fane is a simple parallelogram, 46 -feet long by 16 feet 6 inches wide internally. Three of its walls -(<a href="#fig_932">Fig. 932</a>), which are all built with the granite boulders of the district, and -the east and west gables are still almost entire, but the south wall is -reduced to a state of ruin. The north, east, and west walls, which are -much exposed to the storms from the sea, are without any openings, -except a small pointed window in the west gable. The doorway and windows -seem to have been in the south wall, which may account for its ruinous -condition. The one small window remaining in that wall, and the pointed -window in the west<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_538" id="page_538">{538}</a></span> gable, indicate a date not earlier than the -thirteenth century. Besides these there are no features to give a clue -to the date of the structure; but the period they point to agrees with -the time when the body of St. Duthus is believed to have been brought -here for burial.</p> - -<p>The shrine of St. Duthus was regarded as specially sacred, and possessed -the right of sanctuary. To it the wife and daughter of King Robert <small>I.</small> -betook themselves when compelled to flee from Kildrummy Castle, in -Aberdeenshire. But the sacred nature of the sanctuary did not avail the -royal fugitives, and they were delivered up to Edward by the Earl of -Ross.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_932" id="fig_932"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_538.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_538.png" width="426" height="210" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 932.</span>—Old St. Duthus’ Church. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is believed that this church was destroyed by fire in 1429; M‘Neill -of Creich, having pursued his enemies thither, took that means of -evading the right of sanctuary. He did not seize his enemies within the -sacred ground, but set fire to the church in which they had taken -refuge.</p> - -<p>The second church in point of antiquity is a small quadrangular -structure (<a href="#fig_933">Fig. 933</a>) which stands near the principal church, and to the -south-east of it, on the higher ground adjacent to the modern town. It -is 32 feet long by 13 feet wide within the walls, which are now reduced -to about 6 to 7 feet in height all round. The north wall appears to have -been rebuilt, for Mr. Neale describes it in his <i>Ecclesiological -Notes</i><a name="FNanchor_187_187" id="FNanchor_187_187"></a><a href="#Footnote_187_187" class="fnanchor">[187]</a> as being ruinous, but having one lancet. The east end -contains a triplet enclosed in one arch, and the south side has a door -and a two-light window under one arch. These features point to the date -of this chapel as being early, but it is scarcely possible to fix a -definite time. It is, however, apparently earlier than 1429, the date of -the burning of St.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_539" id="page_539">{539}</a></span> Duthus’ Church on the links, and it is thought that -this may have been the original parish church. The adjoining larger -church is recorded as having been a rebuilding of a previous church, and -it seems most probable that the building now under consideration was the -earlier church.</p> - -<p>As regards the third church (see <a href="#fig_933">Fig. 933</a>), which was undoubtedly -dedicated to St. Duthus, chronicles declare it to have been built by -William, Earl of Ross, who died in 1371. In 1487 James <small>III.</small> procured -from the Bishop of Ross and the Pope sanction for converting it into a -collegiate establishment for a provost, five canons, two deacons, a -sacrist, with an assistant clerk, and three singing boys. This -institution was liberally endowed out of the crown lands, and, after the -death of James <small>III.</small>, an annual sum was paid out of the royal -treasury.<a name="FNanchor_188_188" id="FNanchor_188_188"></a><a href="#Footnote_188_188" class="fnanchor">[188]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_933" id="fig_933"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_539.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_539.png" width="334" height="203" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 933.</span>—St. Duthus’ Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the <i>Treasurer’s Accounts</i> for 1504 there are entries which seem to -point to all three churches as being then still in existence. These -entries show that on 23rd October of that year the king made an offering -of 14s. “in Sanct Duchois Chapell quhair he was borne” (no doubt meaning -the place where the saint was born, or the old church on the links); -also, “in Sanct Duchois Chapell in the Kirk-yard of Tayne” (referring, -probably, to the second, or original, parish church); and also, “in -Sanct Duchoils Kirk” (which may be the College Kirk as distinguished -from the Parish Church).</p> - -<p>The Collegiate Church stands in a pleasant situation overlooking the -sea, on the raised beach to the north of the town, and is surrounded by -a burying-ground.</p> - -<p>St. Duthus’ was an ancient and favourite place of pilgrimage, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_540" id="page_540">{540}</a></span> -old church having been consumed, this new one would, after its erection, -be doubtless the celebrated shrine to which James <small>IV.</small> and <small>V.</small> made their -pilgrimages.</p> - -<p>The former king is believed to have gone there every season for at least -twenty years, as part of the penance he performed in connection with his -father’s death. He visited St. Duthus’ in 1513, before his last fatal -expedition, which closed with the Battle of Flodden. In 1527 James <small>V.</small> -made the pilgrimage of St. Duthus’ barefoot, a memento of which event is -preserved in the name of the “King’s Causeway,” by which a road near the -town is known.</p> - -<p>The Collegiate Church (<a href="#fig_933">Fig. 933</a>) is 70 feet long by 22 feet 6 inches -wide internally. It contains four bays, distinguished externally by -buttresses of good form (<a href="#fig_934">Fig. 934</a>). Each bay contains one window, those -of the south or sheltered side being large and filled with tracery; -while those in the north wall, which is exposed to the sea, are small -plain lancets, with hood moulding. The windows in the east and west -walls are large and filled with tracery, having five and four lights -respectively, divided by mullions. The tracery of the east window, which -has been renewed, is of geometric form, while that of the west window -consists of simple intersecting mullions. The tracery of the south side -windows is of similar design. The west gable contains two niches, one on -each side of the arch of the window. The statue of a bishop (possibly -St. Duthus) still exists in the north niche. There is a doorway in the -westmost bay on each side. They are similar and of good design. A small -benitier projects from the wall on the outside close to the north door. -The south door has had a large porch, the mark of the water table being -still visible.</p> - -<p>The interior contains a triple sedilia and a piscina in the south wall -of good pointed and trefoiled pattern, and there is a small ambry in the -north wall.</p> - -<p>In Neal’s <i>Ecclesiological Notes</i> the church is termed an example of -middle pointed architecture, although its date, as generally happens in -the North, is considerably later than any work of that period in -England.</p> - -<p>From the Reformation till 1815 this edifice was used as the parish -church. A new church being then erected, the old one was abandoned and -suffered neglect. When Mr. Neal visited it in 1848, he found it in the -following condition<a name="FNanchor_189_189" id="FNanchor_189_189"></a><a href="#Footnote_189_189" class="fnanchor">[189]</a>:—“It has been fitted up as a place of -Presbyterian worship; galleries, gaudily painted, run round it; pews of -every size and shape and colour pollute it; but it is now deserted. The -smell of decaying wood, the exhalations from the vaults, the dampness, -the rottenness, the horrible filth, the green mould, the decaying baize, -the deserted appearance of the whole render this a shocking place.”</p> - -<p>This disgraceful condition of the church attracted public attention,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_541" id="page_541">{541}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_934" id="fig_934"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_541.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_541.png" width="563" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 934.</span>—St. Duthus’ Church. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_542" id="page_542">{542}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and, by the exertions of the late Provost M‘Leod and other gentlemen in -the district, its cleansing and restoration were undertaken and -completed in 1877, and the building is now set apart for monumental and -memorial purposes. The old stonework has been preserved and slightly -restored where necessary, and the roof has been renewed. The windows are -filled with memorial stained glass, and the whole is kept in excellent -order.</p> - -<p>A pulpit is said to have been presented to Tain by the Regent Murray, as -a mark of his appreciation of the zeal of the town in the cause of the -Reformation. Mr. Taylor informs us<a name="FNanchor_190_190" id="FNanchor_190_190"></a><a href="#Footnote_190_190" class="fnanchor">[190]</a> that this valuable relic was -“suffered to be broken, and its ornamentation carried away piecemeal by -wanton hands;” but it has now been restored, so far as the fragments -again brought together have enabled this to be done, and forms an -ornamental feature in the restored church.</p> - -<h3>FEARN ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Ross-shire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This abbey is one of the monastic establishments founded in the far -North during the reign of Alexander <small>II.</small> It was originally settled, in -1221, by Farquhard, Earl of Ross, at Edderton, on the Dornoch Frith, and -its first abbot was brought from the priory of Whithorn, in Wigtonshire. -The occupants were therefore of the Premonstratensian Order of Canons -Regular, being the order of the parent house.</p> - -<p>The situation originally chosen was found to be too near the turbulent -tribes further north, and, in 1238, leave was granted to Malcolm of Uig, -the second abbot, to transfer the abbey to a new and more peaceful site. -The new locality is about ten miles south-east from the first site, and -had the advantage of being in more fertile soil. Being well within the -domains of the Earl of Ross, the abbey received his protection, and was -also richly endowed by the successive earls.</p> - -<p>The connection with Whithorn was kept up, and many of the abbots came -from the parent house. In 1321, Mark, a canon of Whithorn, and son of -Sir Mark Ros, was presented to the abbacy by the Prior of Whithorn, and -not chosen by the monks. He is said to have rebuilt the abbey about -1338, and the rebuilding was completed under the rule of Abbot Donald, -in 1372.</p> - -<p>Abbot Finlay M‘Faed was appointed in 1442, and his rule lasted for -forty-four years. He built the cloister, and procured an organ, -tabernacles, chalices, vestments, and other ornaments from Flanders, -with which he enriched the abbey. He died in 1485, and was interred in -St. Michael’s aisle at Fearn, in which his monument was erected, and -where it still survives.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_543" id="page_543">{543}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the beginning of the sixteenth century the commendatorship of the -abbey was held by a mere boy, afterwards destined to become famous in -Scottish history—Patrick Hamilton, the first martyr for Reformation -principles in this country. He was a natural son of the Earl of Arran, a -M.A. of Paris in 1520, and also of St. Andrews. When twenty-six years of -age he was burned as a heretic at the gate of St. Salvator’s College, in -St. Andrews, in 1528.</p> - -<p>The buildings of Fearn Abbey having fallen into disrepair, Robert -Cairncross, Bishop of Ross (1539-45) was appointed abbot of Fearn, being -recommended by the king to the Pope, on the understanding that the -bishop, who was wealthy, would be able to restore the abbey. Bishop -Cairncross also held several other appointments, being Provost of -Corstorphine, Abbot of Holyrood, and chaplain to James <small>V.</small> He resigned -the abbacy in 1545, and died soon after. Nicholas Ross, provost of the -Collegiate Church of Tain, held the abbacy, possibly as a secular -charge, seeing that, in 1560, he sat in Parliament, and voted for the -abolition of the Roman Catholic religion.</p> - -<p>The last commendator was Walter Ross of Morangy; but he was only -titular, for in 1597 the lands of the abbey were erected into the -temporal Barony of Geanies, and granted by James <small>V.</small> to his favourite, -Sir Patrick Murray.</p> - -<p>Some of the church lands were, as usual, feued off to relatives of the -abbots. Abbot Walter Ross procured a grant in his own favour of Morangy -and the mills thereof, which remained with his family for several -generations.</p> - -<p>The church continued to be used as the parish place of worship, and in -1742, during divine service, the vaulted roof fell, when about fifty -people were killed.<a name="FNanchor_191_191" id="FNanchor_191_191"></a><a href="#Footnote_191_191" class="fnanchor">[191]</a></p> - -<p>Of this extensive and richly-furnished abbey there now only remain a -part of the church and the ruins of some structures attached to it.</p> - -<p>The church is a simple oblong chamber (<a href="#fig_935">Fig. 935</a>), 96 feet long by 26 -feet wide internally. Part of it is still used as the parish church, but -the eastern end is partitioned off and set apart as the burial-vault of -the family of Ross of Balnagown. After the fall of the roof last -century, the south wall of the church was to a great extent rebuilt, a -new roof put on, and the interior plastered. The eastern portion, with -the exception of the building up of some of the windows and the -reconstruction of the gable, has been left intact. The chapels, or -“aisles,” attached to the church have been erected against the original -walls, as is evident from the remains of windows still visible, which -are built up.</p> - -<p>The features of the church are extremely simple (<a href="#fig_936">Fig. 936</a>). The windows -are all tall lancets. In the east gable there are four of these all of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_544" id="page_544">{544}</a></span> -equal height, and the walls have been pierced with similar lights, in -pairs, between all the buttresses round the walls. Some of these remain -in the north wall (see <a href="#fig_936">Fig. 936</a>), and in the south wall (which has been -remodelled and partly rebuilt, with large windows inserted) some -portions of the old lancets can yet be traced.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_935" id="fig_935"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_544.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_544.png" width="422" height="347" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 935.</span>—Fearn Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is nothing very distinctive of any particular period in the -architecture, but the features correspond fairly well with the date -assigned to the rebuilding of the abbey by the abbots Mark and Donald -during the fourteenth century. The lanceolate form of the windows seems -at first sight to indicate an earlier period, but, on careful -inspection, it will be observed that there is no hood moulding, a -feature almost universally used in first pointed work. Besides, the -lancet form of window was employed in the north even as late as the -sixteenth century, as in the west front of Beauly Priory, built by -Bishop Reid about 1550. An ambry, piscina, and sedilia are still -preserved in the south wall of the chancel.</p> - -<p>The most important of the additions made to the main building is the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_545" id="page_545">{545}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_936" id="fig_936"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_545.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_545.png" width="637" height="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 936.</span>—Fearn Abbey. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_546" id="page_546">{546}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">south wing or chapel, which was dedicated to St. Michael. This chapel is -said to have been erected by Abbot Finlay M‘Fead, who died in 1485. It -is 32 feet long by 23 feet wide, and has been connected to the church by -an archway 14 feet in width. The walls of the aisle are now reduced to -about 5 feet in height, and contain a doorway in the west side and an -ambry on the east side. In the south wall is the monument to Abbot -Finlay M‘Fead (<a href="#fig_937">Fig. 937</a>). The canopy is segmental, and the mouldings are -bold, but the enrichments are much decayed. On the shield over the -centre of the arch the arms of the abbot are still legible—a stag -behind a tree, with three stars in chief, and a crozier above. The -inscription, which is much decayed, is said to be, “Hic jacet Finlaius -M‘Fead abbas de Fern qui obiit anno <small>MCCCCLXXXV</small>.” It will be remembered -that, through the liberality of this abbot, the monastery was much -enriched. His effigy still rests, though much mutilated, in its original -place.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_937" id="fig_937"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_546.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_546.png" width="454" height="339" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 937.</span>—Fearn Abbey. Monument to Abbot Finlay M‘Fead.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A small monumental chapel has been erected against the south-east angle -of the church and blocks two of the windows. It is probably, from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_547" id="page_547">{547}</a></span> its -details, of the sixteenth century. There is a pointed doorway in the -east side (see <a href="#fig_936">Fig. 936</a>), and a pointed window in each of the east and -west walls. The south wall has contained a monument, but the outer part -of the wall has been broken out, and none of the features of the -monument are preserved.</p> - -<p>Another chapel, doubtless also monumental, has been built against the -north wall (see <a href="#fig_936">Fig. 936</a>), where there have been two windows of the -church. The walls of the above chapels seem to be built out from two of -the buttresses of the church. The buttress forming part of the east wall -of the north chapel is still quite distinct. This structure is evidently -of a very late date. The windows have had mullions, which simply -intersect one another in the arched head, without any trace of -foliation. The chief peculiarity of this chapel lies in its roof. This -has been constructed with six ribs, composed of portions of wall carried -on plain pointed arches, on which were laid the overlapping stone flags, -of which the roof was formed. Two of the arches and a small part of the -stone roof still survive (see <a href="#fig_936">Fig. 936</a>).</p> - -<p>All traces of the cloister and domestic buildings of the monastery have -been completely swept away.</p> - -<h3>INVERKEITHING CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This ancient town, situated a short way north of Queensferry, contained -many interesting structures, but they have now been almost entirely -removed. The fine Town Cross, however, still survives.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_938" id="fig_938"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_547.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_547.png" width="374" height="230" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 938.</span>—Inverkeithing Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_548" id="page_548">{548}</a></span></p> - -<p>The old parish church was burned down in 1825, and afterwards rebuilt, -the only ancient part preserved being the western tower (<a href="#fig_938">Fig. 938</a>). This -tower has been partly incorporated with the new church, to which it -forms an entrance porch, and has a new doorway opened in its west wall. -It measures about 22 feet square on Plan, and has buttresses at the -angles reaching as high as the top story (<a href="#fig_939">Fig. 939</a>). These have the -angles chamfered, and are finished with plain splays on top. An -octagonal turret at the south-east angle, with conical stone roof, -contains the stair to the upper story. The tower is finished with a -plain parapet on top, supported on simple bold corbels. The structure -above the tower is modern. Although not very high, the tower contains -four stories, the upper one being the belfry. It has large windows, with -one mullion and a transom, and very peculiar tracery in the arched head, -consisting of three perforated circles. The bell bears the date of 1641.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_939" id="fig_939"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_548.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_548.png" width="273" height="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 939.</span>—Inverkeithing Church. Tower, from -South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_549" id="page_549">{549}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_940" id="fig_940"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_549.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_549.png" width="425" height="540" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 940.</span>—Inverkeithing Church. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the interior of the church is preserved, and is still used, a very -fine font (<a href="#fig_940">Fig. 940</a>), which was found lying in pieces in the ground -under the tower and in the churchyard, but the pieces have now been put -together<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_550" id="page_550">{550}</a></span> again. The bowl is hexagonal in outline, 3 feet 2 inches -across, the orifice being 2 feet in diameter. Each face is ornamented -with a large shield, supported by an angel, and on each angle is a large -roll, supported on a head and embattled on top. The lower part consists -of five short filleted shafts, with angular projections between them. -The shafts rest on bold projecting bases, standing on an octagonal -plinth, and have a series of enriched caps (sadly damaged) running round -the font, which support the mouldings under the basin.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_941" id="fig_941"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_550.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_550.png" width="469" height="466" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 941.</span>—Inverkeithing Church. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_551" id="page_551">{551}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_942" id="fig_942"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_551.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_551.png" width="436" height="216" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 942.</span>—Inverkeithing Church. Arms on Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The arms on the six shields on the faces of the font are as follow (the -arms being, probably, those of the families named, but there is nothing -to show their connection with the font):—</p> - -<p class="hang">1. Quarterly 1st and 4th, three bay leaves, for Foulis of Colinton; -2nd and 3rd, saltier and chief, wavy (<a href="#fig_941">Fig. 941</a>). Bruce of -Balcaskie.</p> - -<p class="hang">2. A fesse chequé between three crescents (see <a href="#fig_940">Fig. 940</a>). Stewart.</p> - -<p class="hang">3. Fesse between three crescents (see <a href="#fig_941">Fig. 941</a>). Melville of -Glenbervie.</p> - -<p class="hang">4. Per pale, dexter side, a lion rampant within a double tressure -(see <a href="#fig_940">Fig. 940</a>). Lyon of Glamis. On the sinister side, bars wavy, -for Drummond.</p> - -<p class="hang">5. Lion rampant within a double tressure (<a href="#fig_942">Fig. 942</a>). Lyon of -Glamis.</p> - -<p class="hang">6. An eagle displayed, surmounted by a bend with three crescents -(see <a href="#fig_942">Fig. 942</a>). Ramsay of Dunoun.</p> - -<h3>MONUMENT AT ABERDALGIE, <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>An incised monument (<a href="#fig_943">Fig. 943</a>) in the churchyard of Aberdalgie, which is -situated from three to four miles south-west of Perth, commemorates Sir -William Olifurd or Oliphant of Aberdalgie, for ever memorable as the -defender of Stirling Castle against the force of Edward <small>I.</small> in 1304. -Edward conducted the siege in person, and for upwards of three months a -small garrison of men withstood his utmost<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_552" id="page_552">{552}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_943" id="fig_943"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_552.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_552.png" width="365" height="647" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 943.</span>—Monument at Aberdalgie to Sir W. Olifurd.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_553" id="page_553">{553}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">power, although he brought all his great resources to bear on the -castle. At length, through exhaustion and famine, and the effect of -Edward’s battering engines, the garrison capitulated, and Olifurd was -sent a prisoner to the Tower. He was one of the forty noblemen who, at -Arbroath Abbey in 1320, signed the famous protest against papal -encroachment. Sir William Olifurd is thus entitled to be regarded as one -of the heroes of his country, and his tomb deserves all the care that -can be bestowed on it. It lay over his grave in the church of -Aberdalgie, and when that structure (not a stone of which now remains) -was taken down it lay exposed to the weather for about seven years -afterwards. In 1780 it was protected by a great stone slab being placed -over it as a roof. This slab is only raised about 12 inches above the -monument, so that it is with great difficulty it can be seen. The figure -is really in better preservation than it appears in the drawing, but it -is hardly possible to make out more of the carving. The stone roof above -it is very insecure, and ought to be attended to; and some better -defence is needed, as the action of the weather is causing the monument -to scale off, and all the architectural decoration will very soon -disappear. The slab requires protection from the sun as much as from the -rain. The Sketch shows that the north or left side, which is in the -shade of the stone roof, is better preserved than the south or right -side, the former not being subject to so great an alternation of wet and -dry as the latter.</p> - -<p>The monumental slab is in one stone, and measures 8 feet 2½ inches long -by 4 feet 4 inches wide, and is 6½ inches thick, so that the figure is -about life size. The face is quite destroyed. The canopy over the -figure, which is engraved in the stone, is the best preserved part. This -consists of three cusped arches. Beneath each side arch there is a -shield; the one on the sinister side bears the Oliphant arms, the other -is almost effaced. The side borders have been very richly carved. They -are each divided into four niches, all of which have contained figures, -but only one of them is now entire. The border on the dexter side is -almost all gone.</p> - -<p>All round the stone there has been a raised inscription, of which only a -letter or two at top and bottom now remain, and these will, doubtless, -soon scale away. At the four corners the inscription has been blocked by -the emblems of the evangelists, of which only a part of the emblem of -St. Mark now remains, and this is so fragile that it might be picked -away with the finger. There has also been some kind of geometrical -figure in the centre of the inscription, only the beginning of which -remains on one side.</p> - -<p>This is one of the finest of the few incised monuments which remain in -Scotland.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_554" id="page_554">{554}</a></span></p> - -<h3>CREICH CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ruins of this church stand in an old churchyard, overshadowed by -trees, not far from the ancient Castle of Creich,<a name="FNanchor_192_192" id="FNanchor_192_192"></a><a href="#Footnote_192_192" class="fnanchor">[192]</a> and about six -miles north-west from Cupar.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_944" id="fig_944"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_554-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_554-a.png" width="287" height="191" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 944.</span>—Creich Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_945" id="fig_945"></a><a name="fig_946" id="fig_946"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_554-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_554-b.png" width="387" height="193" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr valign="top"><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 945.</span>—Creich Church.<br /> Interior of Doorway.</p> -</td> -<td class="tdspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 946.</span>—Creich Church.<br /> Impost of Arches to South -Aisle. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The original structure (<a href="#fig_944">Fig. 944</a>) has been an oblong single chamber, 60 -feet by 15 feet internally. Apparently there has been no window in the -east wall, and all the other windows appear to have been altered, except -one near the east end of the north wall, which is 6 inches wide, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_555" id="page_555">{555}</a></span> is -round headed, and splays widely to the interior. All the other windows -are square headed, and have probably been altered. It is not easy to say -whether the doorway is original or not; it is situated in the position -where one would expect it to have been originally. It is round arched, -or, if pointed, only very slightly so. It has a stone lintel in the -interior, raised in the manner shown (<a href="#fig_945">Fig. 945</a>) to admit of the leaves -of the door opening.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_947" id="fig_947"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_555.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_555.png" width="335" height="294" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 947.</span>—Creich Church. West Recess.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is a south chapel or aisle entering from the church by a -round-arched opening. The arch has the usual wide double splay resting -on the caps of the responds at each side (see <a href="#fig_946">Fig. 946</a>). This aisle has -a massive base, stepped at various places to suit the sloping ground.</p> - -<p>In the north wall there are two semicircular arched recesses, apparently -for monuments. The westmost one (<a href="#fig_947">Fig. 947</a>) consists of bead and hollow -mouldings, with rosettes in the hollows. The other recess, near the east -end, is of later workmanship, possibly of the seventeenth century; it -has a projecting keystone containing the Barclay arms. On the floor, -within this recess, but placed there in quite a temporary manner, there -lies the very finely-incised monument shown in Fig. 948; the -inscription, on a bevelled edge, bears that it is to the memory of David -Barclay of Luthrie, who died in 1400, and Helen de Douglas, his wife, -who died<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_556" id="page_556">{556}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_948" id="fig_948"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_556.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_556.png" width="303" height="627" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 948.</span>—Creich Church. Monument to David Barclay and -his Spouse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_557" id="page_557">{557}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">in 1421. The stone is about 6 feet 6 inches long by 2 feet 11 inches -wide, and the workmanship of the figures and canopy over, which is -incised in the stone, consists of elaborate tabernacle work, -corresponding with that found on the monuments and brasses of other -countries. The hands and faces shown hatched on the Sketch are rough -sinkings, and are supposed to have been filled in with brass. Over the -figures there are rich architectural canopies, each of slightly -different design. Of two shields, one contains the Barclay arms; the -other is quite worn.</p> - -<p>The church was probably erected about the time of the date on the -monument; and the south aisle was, in all likelihood, erected shortly -before the Reformation.</p> - -<h3>FASLANE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Argyleshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_949" id="fig_949"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_557.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_557.png" width="276" height="166" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 949.</span>—Faslane Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This ruined structure is situated in a retired spot on the Gareloch, a -branch of the Frith of Clyde, and about one mile from Garelochhead. It -has consisted of a single chamber (<a href="#fig_949">Fig. 949</a>), measuring about 37 feet 10 -inches long by 17 feet 9 inches wide inside. The walls are in a very -broken down condition, but, fortunately, the east gable is well -preserved. From the style, the building would at once, except in the -West Highlands, be considered of thirteenth century date, but in that -locality it may have been somewhat later.</p> - -<p>There are two lancet windows in the east end (<a href="#fig_950">Fig. 950</a>), a Plan of which -is given to a large scale (<a href="#fig_951">Fig. 951</a>), from which, and from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_558" id="page_558">{558}</a></span> interior -view (<a href="#fig_952">Fig. 952</a>), it will be seen that they are widely splayed towards -the interior, and have round arches, slightly flattened on the top.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_950" id="fig_950"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_558-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_558-a.png" width="313" height="301" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 950.</span>—Faslane Church. East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_951" id="fig_951"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_558-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_558-b.png" width="307" height="112" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 951.</span>—Faslane Church. Plan of Lancet Windows.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the north wall, adjoining the east end, there is the usual ambry, -chocked for a door. Alongside the ambry are the remains of a window -jamb. Probably the entrance was in the south wall, near the west end.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_559" id="page_559">{559}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_952" id="fig_952"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_559.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_559.png" width="297" height="316" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 952.</span>—Faslane Church. Interior of East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the thirteenth century the castle of Faslane occupied an almost -impregnable summit, at the junction of two glens. “Near to the castle -there was a chapel, dedicated, it is supposed, to St. Michael, with a -burying-ground attached, and, a little beyond it, a mound, where the -priest’s house is reported to have stood.”<a name="FNanchor_193_193" id="FNanchor_193_193"></a><a href="#Footnote_193_193" class="fnanchor">[193]</a> This church was probably -that now illustrated. The old castle was originally occupied by the -Earls of Lennox or members of their family, but, before 1400, it was -forsaken for Inchmurran, in Loch Lomond. In the fourteenth century Alan -of Faslane married Margaret, the only daughter of Donald, the sixth -earl, and so acquired the honours of the earldom. In the sixteenth -century Faslane was feued to Archibald M‘Aulay of Ardincaple; and about -the middle of the eighteenth century the ruined castle furnished a -shelter to the last representative of that family.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_560" id="page_560">{560}</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_561" id="page_561">{561}</a></span> </p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Abailard, <a href="#page_1">1</a>.<br /> - -Abdie, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br /> - -—— St. Magridin’s Church, <a href="#page_293">293</a>.<br /> - -Aberdalgie, Monument at, <a href="#page_551">551</a>.<br /> - -Aberdeen, King’s College, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_445">445</a>, <a href="#page_504">504</a>.<br /> - -Abernethy, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>.<br /> - -Altyre Church, Morayshire, <a href="#page_290">290</a>.<br /> - -Amiens Cathedral, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br /> - -Anderson, Joseph, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>.<br /> - -—— R. Rowand, architect, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -Apses and square east ends, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -Arbroath Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_30">30</a>.</span><br /> - -—— Abbot’s House, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.<br /> - -—— —— Regality Court-house, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Arbuthnot, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -Architecture, New development of, <a href="#page_1">1</a>.<br /> - -—— in Scotland, gap in, <a href="#page_331">331</a>.<br /> - -Ardchattan, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>.<br /> - -Aroise Abbey, Artois, France, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.<br /> - -Auchindoir Church, Aberdeenshire, description, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Balmerino Abbey, description, <a href="#page_505">505</a>.<br /> - -Barrel Vaults, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> - -Batten, E. Chisholm, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_399">399</a>, <a href="#page_402">402</a>, <a href="#page_543">543</a>.<br /> - -Bays, Design of, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -Beauly Priory, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_245">245</a>.</span><br /> - -Beverley Minster, <a href="#page_363">363</a>.<br /> - -Billings, R., <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_389">389</a>.<br /> - -Birnie Church, <a href="#page_121">121</a>.<br /> - -Black’s <i>Brechin</i>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.<br /> - -Border monasteries destroyed, <a href="#page_331">331</a>.<br /> - -Bothwell Church, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_531">531</a>.<br /> - -Brechin Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_203">203</a>.</span><br /> - -Brechin Maison Dieu, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.<br /> - -Buittle Church, Kirkcudbrightshire, description, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>.<br /> - -Burntisland Church, description, <a href="#page_269">269</a>.<br /> - -Bute, Marquis of, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_482">482</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Caithness Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Cambuskenneth Abbey, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_515">515</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</span><br /> - -Campbell, Rev. Dr., Balmerino, <a href="#page_505">505</a>.<br /> - -Cathedrals, chiefly thirteenth century, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Chalmers, P. Macgregor, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_483">483</a>.<br /> - -Chambers, Dr. William, <a href="#page_443">443</a>.<br /> - -Chapel on “The Isle,” Wigtonshire, description, <a href="#page_297">297</a>.<br /> - -Choir and nave, relative length of, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Clackmannan Church, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.<br /> - -Cockpen Church, <a href="#page_303">303</a>.<br /> - -Collegiate Churches, <a href="#page_334">334</a>.<br /> - -Collie, J., <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>.<br /> - -Cowie Church, Kincardineshire, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.<br /> - -Creich Church, <a href="#page_554">554</a>.<br /> - -Crosraguel Abbey, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_478">478</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_402">402</a>.</span><br /> - -Culross Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</span><br /> - -—— Old Parish Church, <a href="#page_243">243</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>Decorated Period, <a href="#page_331">331</a>.<br /> - -—— —— Examples of, rare in Scotland, <a href="#page_332">332</a>.<br /> - -Deer, Abbey of, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> - -—— Church, <a href="#page_278">278</a>.<br /> - -Donoughmore, County Meath, <a href="#page_210">210</a>.<br /> - -Dore, Abbey of, Hertfordshire, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a>.<br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_562" id="page_562">{562}</a></span>Dornoch Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Douglas Church, description, <a href="#page_520">520</a>.<br /> - -Dryburgh Abbey, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>.<br /> - -Dunblane Cathedral, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_86">86</a>.</span><br /> - -Dundee Church, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.<br /> - -Dundrennan Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.<br /> - -Dunfermline Abbey, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_485">485</a>.<br /> - -Dunkeld Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Dunstaffnage Castle, Chapel, description, <a href="#page_299">299</a>.<br /> - -Durham Cathedral, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -Dysart Church, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Edrom Church, <a href="#page_162">162</a>.<br /> - -Egilsay, Orkney, <a href="#page_209">209</a>.<br /> - -Elgin Cathedral, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_322">322</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_121">121</a>.</span><br /> - -—— St. Giles’, <a href="#page_157">157</a>.<br /> - -Ely, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -Eyre, Archbishop, <a href="#page_195">195</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a>Fail Abbey, <a href="#page_76">76</a>.<br /> - -Faslane Church, <a href="#page_557">557</a>.<br /> - -Fearn Abbey, Ross-shire, <a href="#page_542">542</a>.<br /> - -First Pointed Style, <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -—— —— introduced from England, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Fortrose Cathedral, <a href="#page_331">331</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_394">394</a>.</span><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a>Galloway Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -—— A Church in, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -—— William, architect, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_297">297</a>, <a href="#page_482">482</a>, <a href="#page_486">486</a>.<br /> - -Glasgow Cathedral, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>.<br /> - -—— High Kirk, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -—— St. Mungo’s Cathedral, description, <a href="#page_160">160</a>.<br /> - -Glenluce Abbey, <a href="#page_379">379</a>.<br /> - -Gogar Church, Font, <a href="#page_306">306</a>.<br /> - -Grose, Captain, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Haddington (St. Mary’s) Parish Church, <a href="#page_445">445</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_491">491</a>.</span><br /> - -Hexham Church, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.<br /> - -Holyrood Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span><br /> - -Honeyman, John, architect, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a>.<br /> - -Hunter Blair, F. C., <a href="#page_402">402</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="I" id="I"></a>Inchcolm Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_307">307</a>.</span><br /> - -Inchmahome Priory, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_112">112</a>.</span><br /> - -Inverkeithing Church, <a href="#page_547">547</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a>Jedburgh Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>.<br /> - -Jervise, Andrew, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K"></a>Kelso Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>.<br /> - -Kerr, Henry F., <a href="#page_492">492</a>.<br /> - -Kilwinning Abbey, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_73">73</a>.</span><br /> - -Kineddar Church, <a href="#page_121">121</a>.<br /> - -King’s College, Aberdeen, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_445">445</a>, <a href="#page_504">504</a>.<br /> - -—— —— Cambridge, <a href="#page_393">393</a>.<br /> - -Kinloss Abbey, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_402">402</a>.<br /> - -Kinross, J., architect, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>.<br /> - -Kirkwall Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a>Laing, Alexander, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>.<br /> - -—— Dr. David, <a href="#page_429">429</a>.<br /> - -Lamington, <a href="#page_37">37</a>.<br /> - -Lanark, St. Kentigern’s, description, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.<br /> - -Lancet windows, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -Lerida Cathedral, Spain, <a href="#page_37">37</a>.<br /> - -Lincluden College, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a>, <a href="#page_535">535</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.</span><br /> - -Lincoln Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Lindores Abbey, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.</span><br /> - -Linlithgow Church, <a href="#page_445">445</a>, <a href="#page_504">504</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_455">455</a>.</span><br /> - -Lismore Cathedral, description, <a href="#page_263">263</a>.<br /> - -Luffness Monastery, description, <a href="#page_288">288</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>Mackison, William, architect, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br /> - -Maison Dieu, Brechin, description, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.<br /> - -Martine’s <i>Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ</i>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -Mavisbank House, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.<br /> - -Melrose Abbey, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_438">438</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Resemblance of details to York, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</span><br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_563" id="page_563">{563}</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_344">344</a>.</span><br /> - -Middle Pointed Period, <a href="#page_331">331</a>.<br /> - -Monkton Church, description, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br /> - -Morris, James A., <a href="#page_405">405</a>.<br /> - -Muir, T. S., <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a>, <a href="#page_449">449</a>, <a href="#page_479">479</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Neal’s <i>Ecclesiological Notes</i>, <a href="#page_538">538</a>, <a href="#page_540">540</a>.<br /> - -New Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_334">334</a>.</span><br /> - -Newbattle Abbey, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> - -Niddisdale, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -Norman Piers, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Orkney, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Oudenarde, Belgium, <a href="#page_445">445</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Paisley Abbey, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_501">501</a>.<br /> - -Parish Churches, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Pencaitland Church, description, <a href="#page_304">304</a>.<br /> - -Piers, First Pointed, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -Pinches, Frederick, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -Pluscardine Priory, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_146">146</a>.</span><br /> - -Pointed Style, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -—— Arch in Scotland, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Prestonkirk Church, <a href="#page_271">271</a>.<br /> - -Prestwick Church, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br /> - -—— de Burgo, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br /> - -—— Monachorum, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br /> - -—— Prestwick, St. Nicholas’, description, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Ramsay, John, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br /> - -Rattray, St. Mary’s Chapel, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> - -Redfriars Monastery, Luffness, <a href="#page_288">288</a>.<br /> - -Restorations of churches in fifteenth century, <a href="#page_331">331</a>.<br /> - -Robb’s <i>Guide to Haddington</i>, <a href="#page_492">492</a>, <a href="#page_504">504</a>.<br /> - -Robertson, T. S., architect, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_517">517</a>.<br /> - -Romanesque abandoned, <a href="#page_1">1</a>.<br /> - -Rosemarkie, <a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a>.<br /> - -Ross, Cathedral of, <a href="#page_331">331</a>.<br /> - -Rosslyn Chapel, <a href="#page_199">199</a>.<br /> - -—— Collegiate Church, <a href="#page_186">186</a>.<br /> - -Rothesay Castle, Chapel, <a href="#page_517">517</a>.<br /> - -Round arch in Scotland, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>St. Adamnan’s, Burntisland, <a href="#page_269">269</a>.<br /> - -St. Alban’s Abbey, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -—— St. Stephen’s, <a href="#page_73">73</a>.<br /> - -St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.</span><br /> - -—— St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -—— Towers, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s, Douglas, description, <a href="#page_520">520</a>.<br /> - -St. Bride’s Collegiate Church, Bothwell, description, <a href="#page_531">531</a>.<br /> - -St. Colmanel of Butyle, <a href="#page_300">300</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_344">344</a>.</span><br /> - -St. Cuthbert’s, Monkton, description, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br /> - -St. Duthus’ Churches, Tain, description, <a href="#page_537">537</a>.<br /> - -St. Giles’ Collegiate Church, Edinburgh, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_457">457</a>, <a href="#page_460">460</a>, <a href="#page_466">466</a>, <a href="#page_504">504</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_419">419</a>.</span><br /> - -—— Elgin, <a href="#page_157">157</a>.<br /> - -St. Kentigern’s, Lanark, description, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.<br /> - -St. Magnus’ Cathedral, Orkney, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -St. Magridin’s, Abdie, description, <a href="#page_293">293</a>.<br /> - -St. Mary’s Chapel, Rattray, description, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> - -St. Michael’s Parish Church, Linlithgow, description, <a href="#page_455">455</a>.<br /> - -St. Monans’ Church, Fifeshire, description, <a href="#page_471">471</a>.<br /> - -St. Mungo’s Cathedral, Glasgow, description, <a href="#page_160">160</a>.<br /> - -St. Mungo, Church of, Culross, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.<br /> - -St. Nicholas’, Prestwick, description, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br /> - -St. Nicholas’ Church, Newcastle, <a href="#page_445">445</a>.<br /> - -St. Ninian’s (?) on “The Isle,” <a href="#page_297">297</a>.<br /> - -Salisbury Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>.<br /> - -Scott, Sir G. Gilbert, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br /> - -Seton Chapel, <a href="#page_501">501</a>.<br /> - -Sharp’s “Cistercian Architecture,” <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>.<br /> - -Skipness, Kintyre, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> - -Smith, Dr. John, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -Spottiswoode, Archbishop, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.<br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_564" id="page_564">{564}</a></span>Spynie Church, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br /> - -Stokes, Miss, <a href="#page_209">209</a>.<br /> - -Stone roofs, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> - -Sweetheart Abbey, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_334">334</a>.</span><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Temple Church, <a href="#page_486">486</a>.<br /> - -Third or Late Pointed Style, <a href="#page_332">332</a>.<br /> - -Torphichen Church, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.<br /> - -Towers, Central, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Transition Style, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Triforium omitted, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -Trinity College Church, <a href="#page_426">426</a>, <a href="#page_478">478</a>.<br /> - -Tungland Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, description <a href="#page_301">301</a>.<br /> - -Turgot, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.<br /> - -Tynninghame Church, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="V" id="V"></a>Vaults, Pointed, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -—— Barrel, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W"></a>Watson, Robert, architect, <a href="#page_86">86</a>.<br /> - -—— T. L., architect, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> - -Whithorn Priory, <a href="#page_379">379</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_479">479</a>.</span><br /> - -Winchester Cathedral, <a href="#page_373">373</a>.<br /> - -Wooden roofs, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Wyntoun House, <a href="#page_306">306</a>.<br /> - -Wyntown’s <i>Cronykill</i>, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="Y" id="Y"></a>York Cathedral, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_565" id="page_565">{565}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="ERRATA" id="ERRATA"></a>ERRATA.<br />(corrected in this etext)</h2> - -<p>Page 80, fifth line from top, <i>for</i> 502, <i>read</i> 503.</p> - -<p>Page 89, fifth line from top, <i>for</i> eastern, <i>read</i> northern.</p> - -<p>Page 196, first line, <i>for</i> 599, <i>read</i> 600.</p> - -<p>Page 308, third line from bottom, <i>for</i> port, <i>read</i> post.</p> - -<p>Page 540, sixth line from bottom, <i>for</i> piers, <i>read</i> pews.</p> - -<p>Pages 7, &c., <i>for</i> fratry, <i>read</i> fratry.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> See Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> See <i>Viollet-le-Duc Dictionnaire</i>—<i>passim</i>; also, -<i>Development and Character of Gothic Architecture</i>, by C. H. Moore -(1890).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 40.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Bower (Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 375-6).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Introduction, p. 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 62.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 355.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Introduction, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 259.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Introduction, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Introduction, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 274.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> See Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 185.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Over.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Apparently the door seen on Plan immediately west of the -south transept.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Tribute.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Martine’s <i>Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ</i> (St. Andrews, 1797), pp. -40 and 192.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> We have to thank Mr. Kinross, architect, for the plan of -the conventual buildings, here shown, which have been recently -excavated.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Martine, p. 206, and Hay Fleming’s <i>Guide to St. -Andrews</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Book ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> <i>Exchequer Rolls</i>, Vol. <small>III.</small>, p. xlix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Lyon’s <i>History of St. Andrews</i>, p. 191.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Quoted by Hay in his <i>History of Arbroath</i>, p. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 376.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>I.</small>, p. 561.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> <i>Arbroath and its Abbey</i>, by David Miller, 1860, p. 103.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> <i>Arbroath and its Abbey</i>, p. 105-6. See also <i>Castellated -and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. v. p. 526.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> <i>History of Arbroath</i>, by George Hay, p. 91.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i>, p. 193.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> See Description of Holyrood Palace, <i>Castellated and -Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>IV.</small> p. 130.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> <i>Wilson’s Memorials</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 185.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> For an illustration and description of the lectern, see -<i>Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland</i>, 1878-9, p. 287.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Pont’s <i>Cuninghame</i> by Dobie, p. 254.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 260.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Pont’s <i>Cuninghame</i> by Dobie, p. 266.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 89.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> We have to thank Mr. Robert Watson, architect, London, for -the geometric drawings of this cathedral—Figs. 509, 514, 515, 516-519, -520, 522, and 523.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 396.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> See St. Blane’s, Bute, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 292.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> In the recent restoration by Dr. R. Rowand Anderson, which -has been carried out since the above description was written, several -openings have been formed between the upper chamber (now used as an -organ loft) and the choir.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> For further reference to the first Bishop William, see -<i>Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries</i>, Vol. <small>XI.</small>, 1874-76.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> <i>Historic Scenes in Perthshire</i>, by Dr. William Marshall, -p. 343.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> See description in <i>The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>IV.</small> p. 285.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> <i>Registrum Episc., Moraviensis</i>, p. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> <i>Register of the Diocese</i>, p. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> The “Wolf” finally made his peace with the Church, and his -monument was erected in the cathedral of Dunkeld, where it still exists -(see Dunkeld Cathedral).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> <i>Registrum</i>, p. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> See <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 58, and Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 90.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> <i>Exchequer Rolls</i>, Vol. <small>III.</small> pp. 276, 316, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Nisbet, 1-51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>I.</small> p. 439.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> Spottiswoode, p. 145.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> Spottiswoode, p. 145.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>II.</small> p. 246.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> <i>Guide to Elgin Cathedral</i>, J. S. Pozzi, 1892, p. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> <i>Beauly Priory</i>, by E. Chisholm Batten, p. 136.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> See Illustration in M‘Phail’s <i>History of Pluscardyn</i>, p. -121.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> <i>Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis</i>, Preface, p. xxiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> <i>Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis</i>, Preface, p. xxiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>IV.</small> p. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> This view is founded on drawings published in 1836 by -James Collie.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> Mr. Honeyman was kind enough to accompany us over the -building and explain his views on the spot.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> This section is taken from Mr. Collie’s work above -referred to.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Gordon’s <i>Vade Mecum to Glasgow Cathedral</i>, p. 66.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Royal Archæological Institute of Great Britain and -Ireland, Annual Meeting, Edinburgh, 1891.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> See Mr. Chalmers’ work, <i>A Scots Mediæval Architect</i>, p. -45.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> <i>Transactions of the Glasgow Archæological Society (New -Series)</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small>, Part <small>II.</small>, p. 155.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> While passing through the press, we observe that Mr. P. -Macgregor Chalmers, in his recent very interesting work, <i>A Scots -Mediæval Architect</i>, states that he can prove that these figures -illustrate the seven ages of man. This interpretation is ingenious, and -we should be glad if the proof was made more convincing. Mr. Chalmers is -of opinion that the rood screen is of the time of Bishop Blackadder; but -the work is considerably superior to that of the adjoining altars, which -are certainly by that bishop. It is altogether of finer design and -execution than the work of about 1500. The pinnacles have some analogy -with those of the Dean’s seat in the chapter house.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> Skene’s <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> pp. 397-400.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> Black’s <i>Brechin</i>, p. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> pp. 253, 254.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> See Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 175.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 127.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> <i>Scotland in Early Christian Times</i>, p. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> Black’s <i>Brechin</i>, p. 276.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> See <i>Lindores Abbey and its Burgh of Newburgh</i>, by -Alexander Laing, F. S. A. Scot., 1876.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Laing’s <i>Lindores Abbey</i>, p. 135.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> <i>Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland</i>, -Session 1864-5, p. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> <i>Registrum Monasterii de Cambuskenneth</i>, Grampian Club.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>V.</small> p. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> <i>History of Culross.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> Royal Institute of British Architects, 19th June 1871, p. -196.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> Royal Institute of British Architects, 19th June 1871, p. -196.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> It has, however, been suggested that, as the parish was -anciently very large, and included Kincardine, possibly the old parish -church, which is about a mile off in the country, was used for the -landward district, while that of the abbey was the parish church of the -town.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> <i>The Priory of Beauly</i>, by E. Chisholm-Batten, from which -the following historical notes are taken.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> Stewart’s <i>Records of Kinloss</i>, <small>XLIX.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> For particulars of this abbey see <i>Registrum Sancte Marie -de Newbotle</i>, edited for the Bannatyne Club by Professor Cosmo Innes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> pp. xv. xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. xxxix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> <i>Registrum Sancte Marie de Newbotle</i>, p. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> pp. xv., xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> Diplom. Coll. Adv. Libr. MSS., quoted in the <i>Registrum</i>, -p. xxiv. Father Hay, so well known in connection with Rosslyn, appears -to have had access to papers relating to Newbotle which are not now in -existence.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> Diplom. Coll. Adv. Libr. MSS., quoted in the <i>Registrum</i>, -p. xli., and <i>Bannatyne Miscellany</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> <i>Registrum</i>, p. xliv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. xliv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>III.</small> p. 355.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> We have to thank Mr. Ramsay for kindly supplying us with -the annexed Plan and the measurements of the ruins, and for other -assistance freely rendered.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> “A Boar’s head, and on a chief indented 3 mullets, which -are probably the arms of James Hasmall, who was abbot of the monastery -at this time.”—<i>Descriptive Catalogue of Ancient Scottish Seals</i>, by -Henry Laing, No. 1090. Laing gives no authority for this supposition; -while in the Workman MSS. the same arms are assigned to Schewall of that -Ilk. Edward Schewall was abbot in 1526 and 1528. When he died is not -known. So that it is quite as likely that the arms on the sixth shield -are those of Abbot Schewall as that they refer to Abbot Hasmall.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> <i>The Upper Ward of Lanarkshire</i>, p. 257.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> See Tynninghame and Whitekirk.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson, Dundee, for the -drawings of this church.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> <i>Antiquities of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff</i>, -Spalding Club, p. 414. From <i>Chronica de Mailros</i>, pp. 197-8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> See <i>A General View of the Agriculture of Aberdeenshire</i>, -by George Skene Keith, D.D., Aberdeen, 1811, p. 98.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> <i>Proceedings of Society of Antiquaries of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>VIII.</small> p. 323.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> <i>New Statistical Account.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> <i>Shires of Aberdeen and Banff</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 394; <i>Ibid.</i> -p. 395. Also <i>Chamberlain Rolls</i>, Vol. <small>III.</small> p. 529.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> <i>Shires of Aberdeen and Banff</i>, Vol. <small>IV.</small> p. 61.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> <i>Lindores Abbey</i>, p. 66.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 69.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> We have to thank Mr. Galloway, architect, Whithorn, for -plans and photographs of this chapel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> <i>Ecclesiological Notes</i>, p. 229.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 90.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> Vol. <small>III.</small> p. 72.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> M‘Kerlie’s <i>Galloway</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 234.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> M‘Kerlie’s <i>Galloway</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 189.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> <i>Transactions of the Edinburgh Architectural -Association</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 127.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 169.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> Vol. <small>IV.</small> p. 322.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> Act <small>I.</small>, Scene 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> See <i>Proceedings of Society of Antiquaries of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 489.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> See Introduction, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> Figs. 739 and 740 are from sketches in Sir J. Y. -Simpson’s paper above referred to.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_127_127" id="Footnote_127_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> Introduction, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_128_128" id="Footnote_128_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 388.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_129_129" id="Footnote_129_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> M‘Kerlie’s <i>Galloway</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_130_130" id="Footnote_130_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> Grose, p. 181.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_131_131" id="Footnote_131_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131_131"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> M‘Kerlie’s <i>Galloway</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_132_132" id="Footnote_132_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132_132"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> See Vol. <small>I.</small> pp. 347, 398, 448.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_133_133" id="Footnote_133_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133_133"><span class="label">[133]</span></a> <i>Liber S. Marie de Melros</i>, Introduction, p. ix. See also -<i>Morton’s Monastic Annals of Teviotdale</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_134_134" id="Footnote_134_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134_134"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> See Vol. <small>I.</small> Fig. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_135_135" id="Footnote_135_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135_135"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> P. 178.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_136_136" id="Footnote_136_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136_136"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> See <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of -Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 515.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_137_137" id="Footnote_137_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137_137"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> <i>Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 168.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_138_138" id="Footnote_138_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138_138"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> See Fig. 804.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_139_139" id="Footnote_139_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139_139"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> See <i>ante</i>, Fig. 602.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_140_140" id="Footnote_140_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140_140"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> Copied from Halfpenny’s <i>York</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_141_141" id="Footnote_141_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141_141"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> Copied from <i>The Builder</i> of 4th April 1896.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_142_142" id="Footnote_142_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142_142"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> Grose, p. 171.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_143_143" id="Footnote_143_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143_143"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> <i>Chronicles of Lincluden</i>, by W. M‘Dowall, p. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_144_144" id="Footnote_144_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144_144"><span class="label">[144]</span></a> M‘Dowall, p. 140.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_145_145" id="Footnote_145_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145_145"><span class="label">[145]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_146_146" id="Footnote_146_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146_146"><span class="label">[146]</span></a> M‘Dowall, p. 64.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_147_147" id="Footnote_147_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147_147"><span class="label">[147]</span></a> Pennant, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 119.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_148_148" id="Footnote_148_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148_148"><span class="label">[148]</span></a> Mr. P. M‘Gregor Chalmers, in <i>A Scots Mediæval -Architect</i>, p. 26, gives a full account of the sculptured scenes on this -screen. He thinks they are the work of John Morow, in the beginning of -the sixteenth century; but the work here appears to us to be of earlier -date.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_149_149" id="Footnote_149_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149_149"><span class="label">[149]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 178.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_150_150" id="Footnote_150_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150_150"><span class="label">[150]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 229.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_151_151" id="Footnote_151_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151_151"><span class="label">[151]</span></a> <i>Beauly Priory</i>, by E. Chisholm-Batten, p. 189.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_152_152" id="Footnote_152_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152_152"><span class="label">[152]</span></a> Muir, <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 68.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_153_153" id="Footnote_153_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153_153"><span class="label">[153]</span></a> <i>Priory of Beauly</i>, p. 195.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_154_154" id="Footnote_154_154"></a><a href="#FNanchor_154_154"><span class="label">[154]</span></a> <i>Beauly Priory</i>, p. 198.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_155_155" id="Footnote_155_155"></a><a href="#FNanchor_155_155"><span class="label">[155]</span></a> For illustrations of the gatehouse, see <i>The Castellated -and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>III.</small> p. 385.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_156_156" id="Footnote_156_156"></a><a href="#FNanchor_156_156"><span class="label">[156]</span></a> In connection with St. Giles’ we are indebted to the -following works.—<i>The Charters of St. Giles’</i>, edited by Dr. Laing -(1859); <i>Memorials of Edinburgh</i>, by Sir Daniel Wilson (1848); <i>St. -Giles’, Edinburgh</i>, by the Very Rev. J. Cameron Lees, D.D.; <i>The Story -of St. Giles’</i>, by Dr. W. Chambers (1870).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_157_157" id="Footnote_157_157"></a><a href="#FNanchor_157_157"><span class="label">[157]</span></a> W. Chambers’ <i>Story of St. Giles’ Church</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_158_158" id="Footnote_158_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_158_158"><span class="label">[158]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 525.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_159_159" id="Footnote_159_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_159_159"><span class="label">[159]</span></a> This Plan shows the building as it stood before 1829, but -without the walls which divided the space into three churches.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_160_160" id="Footnote_160_160"></a><a href="#FNanchor_160_160"><span class="label">[160]</span></a> This oriel is now rebuilt in the west end of the Murray -aisle.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_161_161" id="Footnote_161_161"></a><a href="#FNanchor_161_161"><span class="label">[161]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 536.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_162_162" id="Footnote_162_162"></a><a href="#FNanchor_162_162"><span class="label">[162]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 311.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_163_163" id="Footnote_163_163"></a><a href="#FNanchor_163_163"><span class="label">[163]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 525.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_164_164" id="Footnote_164_164"></a><a href="#FNanchor_164_164"><span class="label">[164]</span></a> <i>Exchequer Rolls</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_165_165" id="Footnote_165_165"></a><a href="#FNanchor_165_165"><span class="label">[165]</span></a> See <i>ante</i>, p. 297.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_166_166" id="Footnote_166_166"></a><a href="#FNanchor_166_166"><span class="label">[166]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_167_167" id="Footnote_167_167"></a><a href="#FNanchor_167_167"><span class="label">[167]</span></a> M‘Kerlie’s <i>Galloway</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 464.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_168_168" id="Footnote_168_168"></a><a href="#FNanchor_168_168"><span class="label">[168]</span></a> <i>A Scots Mediæval Architect</i>, by P. M‘G. Chalmers, p. -30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_169_169" id="Footnote_169_169"></a><a href="#FNanchor_169_169"><span class="label">[169]</span></a> Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 362.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_170_170" id="Footnote_170_170"></a><a href="#FNanchor_170_170"><span class="label">[170]</span></a> <i>Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 67.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_171_171" id="Footnote_171_171"></a><a href="#FNanchor_171_171"><span class="label">[171]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 64.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_172_172" id="Footnote_172_172"></a><a href="#FNanchor_172_172"><span class="label">[172]</span></a> Robb’s <i>Guide</i>, p. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_173_173" id="Footnote_173_173"></a><a href="#FNanchor_173_173"><span class="label">[173]</span></a> See <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of -Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 203.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_174_174" id="Footnote_174_174"></a><a href="#FNanchor_174_174"><span class="label">[174]</span></a> Robb’s <i>Guide</i>, p. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_175_175" id="Footnote_175_175"></a><a href="#FNanchor_175_175"><span class="label">[175]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_176_176" id="Footnote_176_176"></a><a href="#FNanchor_176_176"><span class="label">[176]</span></a> For further information see <i>Balmerino and its Abbey</i>, by -the Rev. James Campbell, M.A., and <i>Liber Sancte Marie de Balmorinach</i>, -Abbotsford Club, edited by William B. D. D. Turnbull.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_177_177" id="Footnote_177_177"></a><a href="#FNanchor_177_177"><span class="label">[177]</span></a> <i>Balmerino and its Abbey</i>, p. 90. The ford of Burglyn was -probably on the river Eden, about eight miles distant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_178_178" id="Footnote_178_178"></a><a href="#FNanchor_178_178"><span class="label">[178]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i>, and <i>Calendar of State Papers relating to -Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 73.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_179_179" id="Footnote_179_179"></a><a href="#FNanchor_179_179"><span class="label">[179]</span></a> <i>Balmerino and its Abbey</i>, p. 126.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_180_180" id="Footnote_180_180"></a><a href="#FNanchor_180_180"><span class="label">[180]</span></a> These figures are from sketches by Mr. T. S. Robertson.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_181_181" id="Footnote_181_181"></a><a href="#FNanchor_181_181"><span class="label">[181]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 80.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_182_182" id="Footnote_182_182"></a><a href="#FNanchor_182_182"><span class="label">[182]</span></a> In Irving’s <i>Upper Ward of Lanarkshire</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 79, -the monument to Sir James is stated to have been erected by Sir -Archibald, his son.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_183_183" id="Footnote_183_183"></a><a href="#FNanchor_183_183"><span class="label">[183]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 88.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_184_184" id="Footnote_184_184"></a><a href="#FNanchor_184_184"><span class="label">[184]</span></a> <i>Upper Ward of Lanarkshire</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 92.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_185_185" id="Footnote_185_185"></a><a href="#FNanchor_185_185"><span class="label">[185]</span></a> <i>Upper Ward of Lanarkshire</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 93.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_186_186" id="Footnote_186_186"></a><a href="#FNanchor_186_186"><span class="label">[186]</span></a> <i>History of Tain</i>, by Rev. W. Taylor, p. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_187_187" id="Footnote_187_187"></a><a href="#FNanchor_187_187"><span class="label">[187]</span></a> P. 65.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_188_188" id="Footnote_188_188"></a><a href="#FNanchor_188_188"><span class="label">[188]</span></a> Taylor’s <i>Tain</i>, pp. 40, 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_189_189" id="Footnote_189_189"></a><a href="#FNanchor_189_189"><span class="label">[189]</span></a> <i>Ecclesiological Notes</i>, p. 62.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_190_190" id="Footnote_190_190"></a><a href="#FNanchor_190_190"><span class="label">[190]</span></a> P. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_191_191" id="Footnote_191_191"></a><a href="#FNanchor_191_191"><span class="label">[191]</span></a> See List of Abbots of Fearn, in <i>The Priory of Beauty</i>, -by K. Chisholm-Batten, p. 313, and <i>New Statistical Account</i>, Vol. <small>XIV.</small> -pp. 361, 440.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_192_192" id="Footnote_192_192"></a><a href="#FNanchor_192_192"><span class="label">[192]</span></a> <i>The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>III.</small> p. 568.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_193_193" id="Footnote_193_193"></a><a href="#FNanchor_193_193"><span class="label">[193]</span></a> Irving’s <i>Dumbartonshire</i>, p. 414.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/back.jpg" height="550" alt="[Image of the back cover -is unavailable.]" /></div> - -</div> -<hr class="full" /> -<pre style='margin-top:6em'> -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -2/3 *** - -This file should be named 63978-h.htm or 63978-h.zip - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/9/7/63978/ - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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