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+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #63520 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63520)
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-Project Gutenberg's An American Crusader at Verdun, by Philip Sidney Rice
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: An American Crusader at Verdun
-
-Author: Philip Sidney Rice
-
-Release Date: October 21, 2020 [EBook #63520]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN AMERICAN CRUSADER AT VERDUN ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Carol Brown and The Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-An American Crusader at Verdun
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Philip Sidney Rice]
-
-
-
-
-An American Crusader at Verdun
-
-
-By
-
-Philip Sidney Rice
-
-
-
-
-Published by the Author,
-
-at Princeton, N. J.
-
-1918
-
-
-
-
-Copyright, 1918,
-
-BY PHILIP SIDNEY RICE
-
-Published October, 1918
-
-Printed in the United States of America
-
-
-
-
-Foreword
-
-
-I hesitate to write of my experiences because so many books have been
-written about the war, and the story of the ambulancier has been told
-before.
-
-Many young Americans in sympathy with the Allied cause, and
-particularly the cause of France, and many Americans anxious to uphold
-the honor of their own country, when others were holding back the
-flag, went over as “crusaders” in advance of the American Army. Many
-had gone over before I went; some have come back and told their story
-and told it well――and so, although I went as a “crusader,” I am not
-the first to tell the story.
-
-But if my story interests a few of my friends and kin I shall be
-satisfied with the telling of it.
-
- PHILIP SIDNEY RICE.
-
- RHODES TAVERN,
- Harvey’s Lake, Pa.
-
-
-
-
-Introduction
-
-
-A citation in general orders, by the Commanding General of the 69th
-Division of Infantry of the French Army, which declares that Driver
-Philip S. Rice “has always set an example of the greatest courage and
-devotion in the most trying circumstances during the evacuation of
-wounded in the attacks of August and September, 1917, before
-Verdun,”[1] ought to be sufficient introduction in itself to this
-story of an American Ambulance Driver who bore himself valiantly in
-those days of the great tragedy at Verdun. And yet for the story
-itself, and for the man who has written it, something can be said by
-one of his friends in appreciation of both the story and the man.
-
-The literature that is coming out, and which will come out, of the
-great war, will never cease as long as history shall recite the
-efforts of the German Spoiler to gain the mastery of the world, and
-fill the world with hate and hunger. Therefore, every bit of evidence
-that shall touch even so lightly on every phase of the conditions, and
-reveal even in the slightest sense a picture of what happened, will
-have its value.
-
-Of Mr. Rice, I can say that as a youngster the spirit of adventure was
-strong in him. He tried his best to break into the War with Spain in
-1898, but his weight and heart action compelled his rejection by the
-surgeons. He later, however, served with credit under my command, as
-an enlisted man, and as an officer of the Ninth Infantry, National
-Guard of Pennsylvania.
-
-When the United States entered the conflict on the side of the Entente
-Allies in the present war, Mr. Rice, knowing that he could not gain a
-place in the fighting forces, volunteered for service in the American
-Ambulance Corps in France. Herein is written the story of that service
-simply told, without vainglory or boasting. It is a story of a
-soldier’s work――for it was as a soldier he served.
-
-Simply told, yes; but well told. For instance, the recital of the
-story of that evening of July 13, in the after dusk, when the guns had
-silenced forever the voice of his comrade, Frederick Norton, when they
-laid him to rest on the side of the hill in view of the enemy, and the
-towers of the desecrated Cathedral of Rheims. And that other time,
-when in front of Verdun, the “slaughter house of the world,” when
-nerve-racked he had stopped his car on the road, in the midst of the
-shells and gas clouds, when he said to himself: “If I do go and am
-hit, the agony will be over in a few minutes, but, if I turn back, the
-agony will be with me all the rest of my life”――so he put on his gas
-mask and drove on.
-
-The “Cross of War” is not given by France for any but deserving
-action. The men of France who commended and recommended Phil Rice for
-the distinguished honor conferred upon him knew that in every day of
-his service he deserved what the French Government, through General
-Monroe, Commanding the 69th Division of Infantry, gave to him――the
-Croix de Guerre.
-
-It is something to have been a part of it, to have visioned with your
-own eyes the scenes and the places that now lie waste upon the bosom
-of fair France; to have witnessed the horrors of the deadly gigantic
-monster War as it is now being conducted “Over There.” To have heard
-singing in your ears the whirr of the avions in the night air――to have
-seen with your own eyes the tragic diorama of the hateful and cruel
-side of war――and it is something for your children’s children in the
-years that are yet to come to tell that in the Great War their
-forebear bore an honorable part.
-
- C. B. DOUGHERTY,
- Major General National Guard of
- Pennsylvania, Retired
-
-
-
-
- Contents
-
- PAGE
- I
- The Voyage 1
-
- II
- “Over There” at Last! 11
-
- III
- In the Champagne Region 15
-
- IV
- Qualifying as a Driver 18
-
- V
- “Car No. 13” 21
-
- VI
- The “Crusader” 24
-
- VII
- “Raising Hell Down at Epernay” 29
-
- VIII
- Norton’s Last Ride 35
-
- IX
- Bastille Day 40
-
- X
- Here Kultur Passed 45
-
- XI
- Verdun 49
-
- XII
- Awaiting the Big Attack 54
-
- XIII
- Under Fire in an Ambulance 56
-
- XIV
- The Big Shells Come Over 63
-
- XV
- Under the Shell Shower 68
-
- XVI
- Aftermath of Battle 72
-
- XVII
- In the Valley of the Shadow 76
-
- XVIII
- In Paris 81
-
- XIX
- Aillianville 90
-
- XX
- Vive l’Amérique! Vive la France! 98
-
- XXI
- Afterthoughts 102
-
-
-
-
-An American Crusader at Verdun
-
-
-
-
-I
-
-The Voyage
-
-
-It was a glorious afternoon in Spring, to be exact, May 19, 1917, at
-about three bells, that the French liner _Chicago_ moved out of her
-dock and started down the North river on the voyage to France, crowded
-for the most part with volunteers, entering various branches of
-service in the World War. There were doctors, camion drivers,
-aviators, ambulanciers――also a few civilians, half a dozen members of
-the Comédie Française returning to their native land and stage; and
-more than likely there were one or two spies. It was the largest crowd
-of “Crusaders” that had embarked for France since the war began.
-
-The deck was crowded, too, with relatives and friends of those who
-were sailing; there was waving of flags, cheering and shedding of
-tears, and it was my observation that those who were being left behind
-took the departure harder than those who were leaving. But I suppose
-that is true when one starts on any long journey and I suppose it is
-especially true when one starts on the last long journey to a better
-world.
-
-Those of us on the boat were not bound for a better world, we were
-just bound by going to help make the world a little better if we
-could. But some whom I met on the voyage have since passed on to a
-better world.
-
-I am sure that most of the men on board were imbued with a spirit of
-seriousness. I was serious about the journey myself. Practically since
-the war began, I had been moved with a desire to get into it. I
-resented the invasion of Belgium, as have all red-blooded people, no
-matter what their nationality. I resented the murder of Edith Cavell;
-I resented the sinking of the Lusitania; I resented the atrocities
-committed, not against the people of any race in particular, but
-against fellow human beings; I resented the loud clamorings of
-white-blooded pacifists and Prussian propagandists who would have kept
-us out of war at any price, even at the price of honor. When I finally
-reached the decision to take a small part in the war and acted upon
-that decision by enlisting as a volunteer ambulance driver, I felt
-touched with a spirit of rest.
-
-I did not know a single soul aboard when the liner cast off and backed
-out into the river. I knew quite a few before we reached Bordeaux.
-Shipboard is the easiest place in the world to make acquaintances, and
-being alone I drifted about, perhaps, more than if I had gone on board
-with a crowd of my own friends.
-
-That morning in the Waldorf I had been told by Fred Parrish that a
-young fellow by the name of Meeker was going over for aviation and I
-had been told to look him up. A little later that same morning, while
-walking down Fifth avenue, bound for a bookstore to purchase a French
-dictionary and a volume of Bernard Shaw’s plays (I already had a
-Testament), I ran into my literary friend, Mr. George Henry Payne. It
-seemed perfectly natural to run into George on Fifth avenue――he seemed
-perfectly at home there. George is cosmopolitan――he is at home
-anywhere. He had sometimes been in my “Little Red House on the Hill,”
-my summer home in Dallas, Pennsylvania. “Darkest Dallas,” George
-called it.
-
-This meeting with George on Fifth avenue has a bearing on my trip
-across. He informed me that a friend of his, a Miss Katherine G――――,
-was sailing on the same boat. George told me to introduce myself to
-her and said he would communicate with her and vouch for the meeting.
-There was no time for a full description. George merely informed me
-that she was charming, though intellectual――that she had translated
-the works of Brandes into English and done a lot of heavy stuff like
-that. I confess I was a little terrified at the prospect of meeting
-Miss Katherine G――――.
-
-The boat was soon headed down the river and the crowd of friends and
-relatives on the dock faded from view, still waving farewell. Before
-we passed the Statue of Liberty I ran into Meeker――a fine, wholesome
-looking young chap――dressed in a light spring suit――a flower in his
-buttonhole. I saw a lot of Meeker before we reached the other side. He
-had spirit, and speaking of going as a “Crusader,” he remarked: “I
-would rather be a ‘went’ than a ’sent.’” At dinner I met a number of
-other fellows, among them a young aviator just out of Princeton. His
-name was Walcott.[2]
-
-I only kept a diary for a few days. I found that everyone was keeping
-a diary. One day on deck I heard a man reading a page of his to an
-acquaintance and I heard him remark with a show of pride that the
-other fellows in his stateroom were keeping their diaries by copying
-from his. I heard him read: “Arose at seven o’clock, took a bath at
-seven-fifteen; had breakfast at eight, on deck at eight-thirty, sea is
-choppy.” And I thought to myself as I moved about the deck: “What an
-inspiring document to leave to one’s descendants.” So after about four
-pages of the brief one that I kept I find the following:
-
-“I wonder what the intellectual Miss G―――― looks like――whether she is
-prematurely old, anaemic or possibly has a tuft of hair on her chin. I
-have never read Brandes but he sounds heavy. I called on Miss G――――
-last evening after dinner. Ports were masked――curtains drawn, the
-decks were black except for spots of fire indicating a cigarette here
-and there. But in the darkness there was singing, and it was good,
-too. The submarines have not ears――only one eye like the witches in
-‘Macbeth.’ I decided to call on Miss G―――― and I approached her
-stateroom thinking of Brandes, of high-brow feminine youth prematurely
-blighted, of a tuft of hair and anaemia. The stateroom door was open
-and there were lights. The room was littered with roses and clothes
-and things. There was a feminine, human touch to that stateroom, but
-Miss G―――― was not within. Perhaps she was on the deck somewhere among
-those cigarettes glowing like fireflies in the dark. I hastily tossed
-my card upon her pillow and returned to the deck. Miss G―――― has not
-returned my call――I have not seen her to my knowledge.”
-
-Later that first evening on board I went up into the smoking room and
-a cloud of blue smoke hung low over the occupants who crowded the
-room. They did not look like members of a peace commission――some were
-dressed in khaki, some wore yellow driving coats, one wore the uniform
-of the American Ambulance. Over at a corner table three French
-officers, in their light blue uniforms, were seated with ladies who I
-afterward learned were their wives. One of the officers wore the Croix
-de Guerre, which filled me with admiration and envy. At another table
-was a young French girl surrounded by admiring men. She was vivacious,
-possessed of a high color and beautiful teeth――even if she did smoke
-cigarettes. Her friends called her “Andree.” At another table a lively
-card game was going on――later I got to know the participants――Harris,
-Lambert, Bixby, Branch, Foltz and others.
-
-Down in the music room it was crowded, too. Some one was playing the
-piano, and playing well. Altogether it was a likely looking crowd that
-I found on the boat.
-
-Among my early acquaintances was a promising young poet who I was told
-had already begun to fulfil his promise. He was just out of Harvard
-and lived at South Orange, New Jersey. We discovered that we had
-some things in common――we both liked cigarettes and disliked
-white-corpuscled pacifists. We were photographed together by a friend.
-I have always been willing to have my photograph taken with a
-successful poet, providing he wore good clothes and did not wear long
-hair. I was glad to be photographed with Bob Hillyer. He wore a blue
-serge suit, a light blue necktie and had rather sad eyes, though I
-thought he was too young to have suffered much. The well-to-do never
-suffer much at Harvard. He had a slight cold and I prescribed for him
-out of a medicine chest which had been presented to me before sailing.
-The next day he told me he felt much better. I did not tell him that I
-discovered too late that I had given him the wrong medicine.
-
-I met another young fellow who was not a poet. He introduced himself
-to me and said he had met me before somewhere. I could not recall the
-incident, though his name was familiar. On better acquaintance I got
-to call him “Bridgey” for short. He suggested that we take a walk
-around the deck, which was in darkness except for the cigarettes
-glowing here and there. “Bridgey” fell over a coil of rope before we
-had covered the starboard side, after which he inquired the number of
-his stateroom and retired for the night. The next morning he came to
-me and confided that he was rooming in a cabin with a begoggled person
-of strong religious propensities who had taken him to task for his
-levity of the night before. I inquired what form his levity had taken,
-and he confessed “I tried to feed grapes to him when he wanted to go
-to sleep and then accidentally smashed an electric light globe while
-taking off my shoe.” I tried to comfort him with the thought that
-religion was not merely a matter of goggles.
-
-There were two fellows on the boat whom I was destined to know
-intimately later on after reaching the front. They were from
-Providence, Rhode Island. One was tall and slender and had red hair.
-His name I learned was Harwood B. Day. He will always be known
-affectionately to me as “Red” Day. The other was tall and slender and
-had dishevelled hair from constant reading. His name I learned was
-Frank Farnham. To me he will always be just “Farney.” Day was
-returning to the service after a visit in the States.
-
-On a later page in my brief diary, from which I have already quoted, I
-find the following:
-
-“Sapristi! I have just met Miss Katherine G――――. She may be
-intellectual but she certainly is charming. She may have translated
-Brandes into English and done other heavy stuff like that, but she is
-not prematurely old. She is not anaemic and there is not a tuft of
-hair on her chin. She is young, she has black hair and black eyes and
-a kindly smile like a practical Christian. She is feminine. Her
-stateroom told the story――littered with flowers, clothes and things.
-If the boat is hit I shall certainly be one of several who will offer
-her a life belt.” There my diary ended.
-
-The voyage was calm enough and without many exciting incidents. One of
-the passengers died. He was very old and feeble when he came on board,
-bound for his home I believe, in Greece. He was buried at sea early
-one morning before those who had gone to bed had risen.
-
-Many passengers slept on deck while passing through the war zone. The
-ship’s concert took place a couple of nights before we landed. Many
-passengers stayed on deck during the ship’s concert. Miss G―――― and
-the two aviators, Meeker and Walker, took part in a one-act play. I
-wrote the play originally but Miss G―――― rewrote it because she said
-it was too “high-brow,” which convinced me that she was wonderfully
-human though highly intellectual.
-
-Reaching France, we “crusaders” who had become intimate on the long
-voyage, which was all too short, went our various ways――some to
-aviation fields――some to camion camps――some to the American Field
-Headquarters at 21 Rue Reynouard, Paris, France. Some I have seen
-since――some I will never see again.
-
-Coming out of an Eleventh Century Cathedral in Bordeaux with a couple
-of friends, I saw “Andree” pass by in an open carriage. She was
-smiling happily, showing her white teeth when she turned and waved to
-us as the carriage disappeared around the corner.
-
-I last saw Meeker and Walcott in front of the Café de la Paix in
-Paris. I wished them luck in their undertakings for the cause. Meeker
-and Walcott, aviators, have since fallen on the field and I am sure
-the world is bound to be just a little better for the inspiring
-sacrifice they have made.
-
-In Paris I met Frederick Norton, of Goshen, New York.
-
-
-
-
-II
-
-“Over There” at Last!
-
-
-Friday, the twenty-second day of June, I arose upon a birthday
-anniversary. I had no intention of observing it, but I felt in a
-vaguely definite way that something interesting was to happen before
-the day was over; and this feeling was not long in growing from the
-vague to the definite.
-
-From the time of reaching Paris I was busily engaged in various ways
-at the headquarters of the American Field Service while impatiently
-waiting my turn to go to the front. I was more than impatient――at
-times I was fretful. I even believe that upon cross-examination the
-heads of the service would admit that I was absolutely annoying. I
-supposed that I would be assigned to a new ambulance section soon to
-be organized, but on this day I have mentioned, I was informed that I
-was to fill a vacancy in Section Number One, the oldest American Field
-Section serving with the French army. I was in luck. Section One had
-been at the Battle of the Marne, it had served in Belgium――it had been
-at Verdun in 1916 and had gained a glorious record for itself at
-various places along the Western Front. I was to be prepared to leave
-Paris on Sunday morning, and to my delight I learned that Frederick
-Norton was also to join the same Section.
-
-While working together in the Paris headquarters we discovered that we
-had many mutual friends and this naturally put us on a friendly
-footing from the beginning. We found that our ideas coincided about
-many things and about people. I thought Norton had some pretty good
-ideas and was an excellent judge of people. Sometimes when we were
-talking together he would say about someone: “How do you size him up?”
-And I would tell him. Usually our ideas coincided. Norton had been a
-traveller――he had been to Alaska――he had been North with Peary――he had
-been to Japan――he already knew something of France――he had been a
-hunter――he had a pilot’s license to drive an aeroplane――he had done
-some toboganning and skiing in Switzerland, which are not sports for
-the timid. These things I learned from him slowly, for he was
-extremely modest and not given to talking about his exploits. I was
-glad when I found that we were to start for the battle front together,
-and he was kind enough to say that he was glad, too.
-
-Saturday night and a short “Good-night” to Paris. A short “Good-night”
-because cafés close at nine o’clock, and besides I must be up early
-the following morning. In company with my delightful pagan friend
-“Bridgey,” I went around to a little quiet out of the way café, which
-was hardly known to Americans. The little café was kept by an elderly
-lady whose husband had been killed in the war and by her daughter
-whose husband had also been killed in the war. This mother and
-daughter were excellent cooks, but their place was plain and
-comfortable. There was sawdust on the floor. Sitting in the little
-back dining room we could see into the kitchen and watch the meal
-being prepared. Across the street in the “Chinese Umbrella” there was
-more ostentation, style and atmosphere. The “Chinese Umbrella” was
-patronized mostly by Americans and the atmosphere was not Parisian.
-
-“Bridgey” had invited me there for a quiet, exclusive farewell supper,
-and as we sat in the back room of the café he regaled me with an
-account of how he had tried for aviation the day before. He was
-nearsighted and wore spectacles, without which he could scarcely see
-across the room. From a friend he had procured a copy of the alphabet
-eye test and had tried to commit it to memory; he reported for
-examination with spectacles in his pocket. He missed on the third
-letter, and being brusquely informed that he had failed, “Bridgey,”
-who certainly had a sense of humor, smilingly adjusted his spectacles
-and bade adieu to the inspecting officer.
-
-Supper finished, I said “Au ’voir” to Madame and her daughter, the two
-war widows, and then went off to bed.
-
-“Bridgey” was on hand next morning to see us start for the front. A
-few other acquaintances were at the station, too. I have not seen
-“Bridgey” since but I heard that he was at Verdun during the big
-offensive.
-
-Norton and I boarded the twelve o’clock train bound for the front. The
-train was crowded with French officers, grey haired Generals,
-Colonels, officers of all ranks and of various branches of the
-service. There were very few civilians and not half a dozen women.
-Twelve o’clock, and Paris faded behind us as we started for the battle
-front.
-
-
-
-
-III
-
-In the Champagne Region
-
-
-We left the train at Epernay, an important city some twenty miles back
-from the battle lines, but subject to air raids, as I observed from
-demolished and dilapidated buildings in various parts of the town, and
-as I was to learn from personal experience before many days had
-passed.
-
-Here we were met by a member of Section One, a young fellow by the
-name of Stout, well named, of stocky build and robust appetite. Norton
-and I had eaten lightly and suggested that we repair to a café for
-luncheon before proceeding on to where Section One had its cantonment
-near the front. Stout said he would join us for company’s sake, but
-that he had finished dinner just a short while before. As we ate and
-talked a large plate of pastry was placed upon the table and Stout was
-prevailed upon to take one, and as we talked Stout emptied the plate
-and we called for more which we divided with Stout. After luncheon I
-caught Norton’s ear and said to him: “You heard Stout say he had his
-Sunday dinner?”
-
-“Yes.”
-
-“You noticed the vanishing plate of sweets?”
-
-“Yes.”
-
-“Well, it looks to me,” I said, “as if Section One is starving.”
-
-That was before we knew Stout of robust appetite. But Stout had plenty
-of vim and vigor and was untiring, and later won the Croix de Guerre
-at Verdun. Stout and I quarrelled at Verdun, after which I had a
-genuine affection for him.
-
-We clambered into a motor truck, Stout driving, and were on the second
-stage of our journey to the front. We reached the town of Louvois
-about six o’clock. Here Section One had its cantonment. Louvois is a
-picturesque village, far enough back from the lines not to be entirely
-deserted by its civilian population, mostly simple people living in
-simple homes just as their forebears had lived in the same homes a
-hundred years and more before. Here we began to breathe the atmosphere
-of the war――here, night and day, we saw the movement of the troops to
-and from the front――we saw the procession of camions carrying
-munitions and supplies――large cannons being drawn by many horses――the
-little machine guns――sometimes a fleet of armored cars equipped with
-anti-aircraft guns. Overhead we saw the large observation balloons and
-heard the whirr of aeroplanes. In the distance we could hear the
-firing at the front.
-
-Supper was being served underneath a shed, and it was a good supper,
-too. Section One was not starving. We were cordially received by the
-members of the Section. “Red” Day and “Farney” were in the gathering.
-“Red” had served with the Section in Belgium. After supper we strolled
-along the street and listened while Purdy, a bright young fellow, told
-us all about the war. Purdy was six feet tall and as I later observed
-every inch a soldier.
-
-That night we were billeted in the second story of a dilapidated
-barnlike building from which the windows were all gone, and lying on
-my cot I could see the stars through the roof. That night a rat ran
-across my face. At last I was getting into the war.
-
-
-
-
-IV
-
-Qualifying as a Driver
-
-
-The following morning Norton and I, not having been assigned to cars,
-were set to work changing a tire. Down on our hands and knees we began
-to struggle――a few of the men were standing about. Norton laughed
-softly and whispered to me:
-
-“Have you ever changed a tire before?”
-
-“No,” I said; “have you?”
-
-“No,” chuckled Norton, but we quickly finished the job and felt very
-proud of our first effort.
-
-A little later I was taken out for a trial ride to prove whether or
-not I could really drive a Ford car. William Pearl, our volunteer
-mechanician, went with me on the run. Pearl had been a Rhodes scholar
-and had joined the Section some time before. A couple of months after
-that trial drive he and I were destined to have a thrilling and trying
-experience, in which he was the principal actor.
-
-[Illustration: Cars Waiting for a Run]
-
-The trial ride took us along a road for about seven miles, where we
-came to the brow of a hill. Here we stopped the car and walked out
-into an open field and there I obtained my first glimpse of the war,
-spread out before us in a panorama. In the distance, to the left, I
-could see the city of Rheims, the towers of its desecrated cathedral
-looming up distinctly. I could see the shells falling and bursting in
-the city. Pearl informed me, as we stood there, that an average of two
-thousand shells a day were being dropped on the city. In front of us I
-could see the hills laid barren by shell fire and scarred by the lines
-of trenches. Overhead a German aeroplane had crossed the French
-lines――the anti-aircraft guns had opened fire――little puffs of
-cloudlike smoke appeared in the sky underneath the plane as it rose to
-higher altitudes. French planes arose in pursuit and finally the
-German plane disappeared from sight over its own lines. Directly
-overhead a bird was singing in a tree just as cheerfully as if there
-was no such thing as trouble in the world. Looking back in the
-opposite direction I could see women and young girls working in the
-vineyards.
-
-As we started to leave the spot Pearl pointed to a town nearby on our
-left.
-
-“That is the town of Ludes,” he said. “Notice where it is, because you
-will have to go there when on duty.”
-
-I looked in the direction that he pointed, little realizing that the
-town of Ludes would be forever associated in my mind with the most
-tragic incident of my service in France.
-
-Then we turned and drove back to Louvois. That was the full extent of
-my training for front line work. I was informed that I had qualified
-as an ambulance driver.
-
-
-
-
-V
-
-“Car No. 13”
-
-
-Having been duly declared a qualified driver, I was assigned to a car
-which happened to be number 13, but as I am not particularly
-superstitious this did not make me nervous.
-
-Then I was sent to post for duty out at the town of Ludes. Here we had
-our headquarters in a little Swiss chalet hidden behind a clump of
-trees; though within sight and sound of the war, it was peaceful
-enough, at least for those on war duty. Everything is comparative.
-Before many days had passed I was to see that peaceful little chalet
-stained with blood. The place was equipped with a telephone bell,
-which would signal when a car was needed at a front line post. Those
-on duty here answered the calls in rotation.
-
-About noon of my first day on duty a call came in for two cars. One of
-the cars was to carry wounded men back to the town of Epernay, the
-other car was to go to the extreme front line post. One of the calls
-was for Joe Patterson of Pittsburgh, the other call was for me. Out of
-politeness to a new man “Pat” gave me the choice of runs.
-
-It seemed to be much easier to get right into the serious work than to
-have the suspense of waiting, so I chose the run to the front line
-post. I started off over the hills, through the ancient town of
-Verzeney, famous for its wines――through the winding streets, turning
-sharply at a corner――down a long steep hill hidden from view of the
-enemy by camouflage――past what was known as the Esperance farm till
-finally I reached the post. Here I stopped my car and waited. Here
-there was a canal, the waters of which had been let out, and into the
-canal banks had been built little dug-outs. In the one where I was to
-wait and sleep until needed were two rough cots, a shelf on which
-there were some rather dirty eating utensils and a loaf of dry bread.
-
-During the afternoon there was intermittent firing but no great
-activity on either side of the lines. Occasionally an aeroplane would
-fly overhead. Once during the afternoon a German plane flew over in an
-effort to attack an observation balloon, but was successfully driven
-off by the French.
-
-The afternoon passed quickly enough without having my services called
-for and at supper time I had my first meal of trench fare with French
-poilus for company, a cup of hot soup, a chunk of meat, a slice of
-bread and a cup of coffee. The cook who served us was a big fellow
-with a black beard. He was killed a short time after and his body lay
-all day in a nearby dug-out.
-
-After supper I clambered over the canal bank and walked along the
-empty canal bed observing the marks of German shells. Then there was a
-sudden volley of shots from a French battery near at hand, the guns of
-which were so carefully concealed that I had not observed it. I
-quickly clambered back over the “safe” side of the canal bank and
-waited.
-
-I began to feel restless and to wonder when I would be called to get
-out into the battle of the night.
-
-In the meantime the firing had increased on both sides of the lines.
-
-
-
-
-VI
-
-The “Crusader”
-
-
-It was some time after nine o’clock and growing dark when a French
-soldier came up and handed me a slip of paper bearing a message which
-had just come over the telephone. The message conveyed instructions
-for me to drive down the road a couple of miles to a front line
-dressing station, where I would find wounded who had just been carried
-in. I was informed that the call was urgent. Though I am not fearless
-by any means, I did not feel frightened as I walked out to my car and
-started the engine; but I noticed that my heart was beating rapidly.
-
-A few French soldiers waved to me and called “Au ’voir” as I got in
-the seat and was off down the road, first to the left, then to the
-right, then straight ahead as fast as I dared drive. The road took me
-directly in front of the French batteries, and in the growing darkness
-the flashes of fire from the guns and the concussion in my face made
-it seem as if they were firing directly at me, not over me. I drove on
-till I reached the post to which I had been sent, then backed up my
-ambulance around near the entrance to the dug-out and stopped. An
-officer stepped up and shook hands with me and in English said: “The
-American drives fast.”
-
-He explained to me that the wounded were being cared for and would
-soon be ready for the journey. A small group of silent stretcher
-bearers were standing near the entrance to the dug-out. The firing
-increased in intensity――the battle of the night was on. The officer
-remarked to me: “The Germans are very angry.” I handed the officer a
-cigarette and lighted one myself. I have found that tobacco is a great
-solace to the nerves when under fire. We continued our broken
-conversation. “Do you come from New York?” he asked.
-
-“Near New York,” I replied. Every place east of Chicago is near New
-York when you are over three thousand miles away.
-
-“Do you like champagne?” he inquired. It was not an invitation, he was
-merely getting my point of view. We were standing within a few miles
-of the richest champagne producing vineyards in the world. Then I
-looked in the direction of the dug-out, into the dimly lighted
-entrance, and I saw stretcher bearers slowly coming out bearing a
-wounded soldier and I braced myself for the first shock of the horrors
-of war. Gently the wounded soldier was lifted into my ambulance, then
-two more wounded were carried out. I closed and fastened the back
-curtain of the car, started the engine and climbed into the seat.
-“Drive gently,” said the officer, shaking hands with me. “Thank you,
-good-night,” and I started on the return trip, in the dark without
-lights.
-
-As I drove back to the town of Ludes, troops were moving to the front
-under the cover of darkness and I was obliged to blow my whistle
-continually. Now and then a large camion would loom up suddenly in the
-darkness directly in front of me――a little blacker than the darkness
-itself――that is how I could see it. I would turn quickly to avoid
-being hit. We always drove without lights at the front. Half way up
-the long hill leading to the town of Verzenay the water was boiling in
-the radiator and the engine was hitting on three cylinders――I wondered
-if I would make the heavy grade; I wondered if a bursting shell would
-sweep the road; I wondered if I would get the wounded safely back; I
-wondered about many things in those moments on my first night drive in
-the dark. On through the dark winding narrow streets of the town of
-Verzeney, at one place driving with difficulty through a flock of
-sheep, on in safety to the town of Ludes to the building which served
-as a field hospital. I felt a great sense of relief when I drew up at
-the entrance safely back with my wounded.
-
-Then I drove back to the little Swiss chalet to await my next call.
-Before turning in for a little sleep I stood in the entrance listening
-to the continual firing along the front and watching the signal
-rockets, the star shells, and the flashes of the guns. Then I went
-inside, climbed over a sleeping companion, found a vacant space on the
-floor, rolled up in my blanket, put my coat under my head and went to
-sleep.
-
-I had not been sleeping long when the telephone bell rang. It was my
-turn out again. This time I received instructions to drive over into
-another direction to a château which served as the headquarters of a
-French General. Château Romont it was called. There I was to await
-further instructions. So I parked my car in the courtyard and was led
-down into the dark cellar of the château. As I entered I could hear
-heavy breathing――evidently some one was sleeping there. A light was
-made and I was shown a rough cot where I might sleep until needed.
-Again I curled up in my blanket and was quickly asleep. I had only
-been asleep for a few minutes when some one touched me on the shoulder
-and awakened me. This time I was to drive over to the shell wrecked
-town of Sillery. It was then about four in the morning, the dawn was
-grey and then a streak of red in the east over the line of German
-trenches. The firing had subsided to some extent.
-
-Into the shell wrecked town of Sillery I drove, and I could see in the
-growing light that many houses had been levelled to the ground and
-there were none at all that did not bear the marks of battle. I drove
-into a court yard, inside the gate of which there was a large shell
-hole. Stretcher bearers were waiting for me――there was no delay this
-time. Two men were lifted into the car. They were suffering very great
-agony but I could see no marks of blood. I understood at once――they
-were victims of poison gas.
-
-This time there was no need to drive slowly back again to the town of
-Ludes to the hospital. It was broad daylight when I reached there. A
-sleepy stretcher bearer came out carrying a lantern, which was not
-needed. The two men were lifted out of the car and lowered to the
-ground. They were writhing in agony――one of them rolled off his
-stretcher into the gutter, and died at my feet. That was my first
-night on duty at the front――that was my baptism of fire.
-
-
-
-
-VII
-
-“Raising Hell Down at Epernay”
-
-
-Sir Philip Sidney, for whom I believe I was more or less hopefully
-named, gained immortal fame by giving his last drop of water to a
-dying comrade on the field of battle. I desire to mention that I gave
-my last cigarette to a perfectly live stretcher bearer while under
-shell fire. For twenty-four hours I had been stationed at the dug-out
-in the canal bank in front of the Esperance farm; the place where I
-had been the first time I went to post. Several time since I had gone
-there and now felt quite at home in those surroundings.
-
-During the last twenty-four hours shells had been coming in with a
-fair regularity. The Germans were endeavoring to drive out a battery
-which evidently had given them some annoyance. In a comparatively
-short period I counted more than a hundred shells, shrieking over my
-head, striking and bursting a hundred yards in front of me, throwing
-the earth in every direction, the rocks and pieces of shell spattering
-around close to where I stood. Several trees were cut down by the
-bombardment and they fell like so many twigs.
-
-I had been alone during those twenty-four hours and had begun to
-realize that waiting for a run was quite as trying as the run itself,
-particularly as I could observe that when I did start I would be
-obliged to pass uncomfortably close to the corner where the shells
-were hitting. Toward the end of the afternoon some wounded came
-straggling in. After twenty-four hours under whistling shells I was
-glad to start back to Ludes and to a cigarette.
-
-I spent the early evening at the little Swiss chalet. About nine
-o’clock I received a call to carry two wounded officers back to the
-town of Epernay. It was a beautiful, cool, moonlight evening and I
-enjoyed the prospect of the peaceful drive away from the sound of the
-war, not realizing that there was a rather interesting evening in
-store for me. I drove across the Marne into the town of Epernay at
-about eleven o’clock and took one of the wounded officers to the
-principal hospital there. The other officer I was instructed to take
-on to another hospital, located at the top of a hill on the outskirts
-of the town. Epernay is an old town and the streets are narrow,
-winding, and quite as confusing as Boston, particularly when driving
-at night without lights.
-
-As I pulled up the hill out on an open road in sight of the hospital,
-I saw a flash of light in the sky, followed by a sharp report――then
-there was a shower of lights much like rockets followed by a series of
-reports. As I stopped the car in the hospital grounds and was
-assisting stretcher bearers to lift out the wounded officer, I could
-hear the droning of several aeroplanes overhead but could not see
-them. Hospital aides, half dressed in white trousers, and in bare
-feet, were crowded in the doorway. Everyone understood what was
-happening. The Germans had come over in numbers for one of their
-periodical raids.
-
-Incendiary bombs were now dropping down in the heart of the town where
-I had just passed. Church bells were ringing as a warning for all
-civilians to take to their caves――a warning which seemed quite
-superfluous. There was a terrific explosion, followed by a burst of
-flames which lighted up the sky. A building had been set on fire.
-Standing beside my car, I took off my fatigue cap and substituted my
-steel helmet, which I always carried with me when not actually wearing
-it. Steel helmets have saved many lives. The bombardment became more
-furious as time went on――bombs were dropping on various parts of the
-city. Several powerful searchlights began to sweep the heavens and two
-broad shafts of light crossed, and in the cross they held in view a
-German plane. It was flying low and not far overhead from where I
-stood. The two searchlights followed the movement of the plane and
-held it in the cross while the anti-aircraft guns opened fire. I could
-see the shells bursting underneath the plane but none hit and quickly
-the plane flew out of range and disappeared from sight. But the
-raiders continued the bombardment.
-
-Having waited for some time for the firing to cease I decided to start
-back for post at Ludes. Unless there was very good reason for not
-doing so, we were expected to return to post as soon as we had
-finished the errand which had taken us away. To drive back it was
-necessary for me to return through the heart of the town were the
-bombs had fallen and were still falling. So far as possible I kept on
-the “shady” side of the street out of the moonlight, pausing at every
-corner for a moment. Sometimes there would be a deafening crash near
-by. I would stop――put my head down and my arms over my face, then
-would drive quickly into the next street. I passed the postoffice just
-after it was hit――pieces of shutters, doors and glass were littered
-about the street and I feared for punctured tires. I drove on a short
-distance, turned around and went back, pausing in front of the
-demolished building, but could hear no sound. The street was
-absolutely deserted. As I continued my drive over the deserted streets
-the only sign of humanity I would see was an occasional soldier with
-his gun standing in the comparative shelter of a doorway.
-
-Before leaving the town I stopped for a moment at the hospital where I
-had first been and an officer who could speak a little English asked
-me to stay all night in the “cave.” “It is a bad night to be out,” he
-said. The invitation was alluring, but I decided to push on to Ludes.
-
-To get out of the town I must recross the bridge over the Marne, close
-to the railroad station, and I had been informed that raiders were
-making a particular effort to hit the station. As I shot out across
-the bridge in the broad moonlight, in full view from above, I could
-see some freight cars burning. I wished that some friend were sittting
-beside me, but I often wished that on these lonely nerve-racking night
-drives.
-
-When I drew out into the open country I felt no inclination to turn on
-my lights, for I had heard of a staff car just a short while before
-driving over the same road. The driver had turned on his lights. The
-target was seen from an aeroplane――a bomb was dropped with accurate
-aim, demolishing the car and killing all the occupants.
-
-Reaching Ludes some time in the middle of the night, I stepped over
-the form of Curtis, who, curled up in his blankets, was asleep on the
-floor. He awoke and sleepily inquired: “Who’s there?” I told him.
-“Anything going on?” he inquired still sleepily.
-
-“Seem to be raising hell down at Epernay,” I told him quietly, so as
-not to awaken anyone who might be sleeping.
-
-“That so?” muttered Curtis, and with no more show of interest went
-back to sleep.
-
-The next day I learned that many houses had been destroyed. Five
-wounded soldiers had been killed in the hospital where I had been
-invited to spend the night.
-
-
-
-
-VIII
-
-Norton’s Last Ride
-
-
-Frederick Norton and I were new men in an old Section. We were new men
-in an old crowd, consequently when we joined the Section we made no
-effort to break into any old established circles. When off duty
-together, he and I were accustomed to taking long walks across the
-fields and to the towns behind the lines and on these walks I learned
-to know what I already believed――that he was a man of exceptional
-character, quiet, unassuming, modest; a gentleman in the best sense of
-the word; a delightful companion, an ideal soldier. On one of our
-walks we talked some of spending “permission” together on the coast of
-Brittany.
-
-I remember when I went to post for the first time Norton stepped up to
-me and shook hands, wishing me luck and an interesting trip. That
-established a custom between us. After that we always shook hands when
-either one or the other of us started for post.
-
-When we had been in the Section for a short while we were invited to
-join three of the older fellows and to transfer our cots to a tent
-underneath the trees just outside the grounds of a very beautiful
-château, owned, I believe, by M. Chandon, of Möet & Chandon. We
-naturally accepted the invitation with pleasure and thus we became
-established as members of the old crowd. Formalities ceased from that
-time.
-
-The château had been converted into a hospital and at night a lighted
-red cross over the large iron gates showed the entrance to approaching
-cars.
-
-We had some pleasant evenings under the trees when off duty, even
-though we could hear the distant firing of the guns. We sang some, a
-guitar and mandolin also furnished music. We listened to New Townsend
-reminisce about his experiences in Belgium in the early part of the
-war. Frank Farnham and “Red” Day occasionally sang a duet without much
-persuasion. With difficulty “Farney” was prevailed on to yodel. On one
-occasion Ned Townsend danced the dance of the seven veils by
-moonlight. Sometimes we would hear the whirr of an aeroplane overhead.
-The light in our tent would be extinguished by the first man who could
-reach it and silence would reign.
-
-So in spite of the war there were many pleasant moments. A spirit of
-comradeship grew up between us all. Under such conditions, sharing the
-same dangers, the some hardships, the same pleasures, we grew to know
-each other better in a short space of time than would have been
-possible in years in the ordinary peaceful walks of life.
-
-Ned Townsend, the oldest man in point of service, remarked that the
-best of fellowship had always prevailed in Section One――that it had
-always been more like a club in that respect than a military
-organization. He also mentioned casually that Section One had almost
-always been lucky――very few casualties had marked its long, arduous
-and dangerous career at the front.
-
-On the afternoon of July 12 I saw Frederick Norton starting for the
-front, and, following our custom, I went over to his car, shook hands
-with him and wished him “good luck.” I told him the next time we were
-off duty together we must take a walk over the neighboring hills to
-inspect a windmill which had been erected about the time Columbus
-discovered America. Then he was off to the town of Ludes――to the
-little Swiss chalet hidden behind the trees.
-
-That night was a bright moonlight night――an ideal night for avions.
-Early in the evening those of us at Louvoise were having music under
-the trees. A few convalescent soldiers from the château hospital were
-sitting about in the grass, listening. As the moon came up and shone
-through the trees I recall “Red” Day remarking: “The avions will be
-over to-night,” and a short while after we heard the unmistakable
-crash of an avion bomb down the road in the direction of Epernay.
-
-It must have been pretty close to eleven o’clock that Frederick Norton
-was standing in the back window of the little Swiss chalet at Ludes,
-from which place he could get a glimpse of the battle lines through
-the boughs of the trees. He was waiting for his call to go to the
-front. His call was soon to come. He no doubt heard the whirr of the
-approaching aeroplane overhead――he may have heard the deafening crash
-of the bomb as it struck the ground, making a crater in the earth and
-riddling the walls of the peaceful chalet. But then the sound of the
-war was forever silenced――for him. A piece of the shell had cut his
-throat――another had pierced his heart. He pitched forward, then fell
-backward on the floor. He had answered his final call.
-
-The following night I walked beside my friend Frederick Norton for the
-last time. He was not laid to rest until after dusk because his burial
-place was on the side of a hill in view of the enemy――in view of the
-towers of the desecrated cathedral at Rheims――as fine a place as any
-for a volunteer who had earned an honorable rest.
-
-There were French officers of high rank in the gathering to pay homage
-to the Volunteer American――a priest, a Protestant chaplain, his
-friends in Section One――a squad of soldiers under arms. As we stood
-there in the growing dusk a German aeroplane flew overhead and swept
-the roadside nearby with its rapid fire gun. All looked up but no one
-moved. The benediction being said, we walked slowly away.
-
-
-
-
-IX
-
-Bastille Day
-
-
-July 14, 1917, was “Bastille Day,” the great French national holiday,
-and the troops were greatly heartened by the fact that at last America
-was coming over to help them win the war. French and American troops
-were to parade together in Paris――the fighters at the front were to
-have a special dinner, with a cup of champagne and a cigar. A few of
-the men in our Section who had a short leave of absence coming due
-were going into Paris for a couple of days.
-
-Personally, I was glad that I was going out to the front on duty. I
-felt the need of active, strenuous work. During the forenoon several
-shells came shrieking over the little Swiss chalet, striking in a
-field a short distance back. A little while later I saw a dead soldier
-being carried into the town by his comrades. One shell struck in a
-field outside the town where a young girl was working in the vineyard
-and she was obliged to desert her work and run for shelter. I wondered
-if the Germans had observed the movements of our ambulances in and out
-of the grounds of the chalet or whether they were merely observing the
-French holiday. Some one remarked that following a custom of three
-years standing, they would do what they could to disturb the holiday
-dinner of the French soldiers. About noon a couple of shells struck in
-the town of Ludes but did no great amount of damage. A few civilians
-were still living in Ludes and in the kitchen of a little French woman
-we ate our meals when not out on a run. We supplied the food and she
-cooked for us. I remember during my first luncheon in that kitchen
-seeing her send her little daughters off to school with gas masks
-flung across their shoulders.
-
-“Bastille Day” was a fairly busy afternoon and that night there was no
-time to rest. Sometimes it was a call to go out to the Esperance
-farm――sometimes a call to run into the town of Sillery――sometimes to
-report at the Château Romont back of Sillery to await further orders.
-
-That night I had no sleep at all, though I made several efforts. Early
-in the evening I found myself at the Château Romont, and when I was
-going to retire for a little rest I was not shown down into the dark
-cellar where I slept for a short while the first night I had been
-there. I was invited into a large back room in the château which had
-once evidently been a handsome billiard room. On the walls were deer
-antlers and a boar’s head. The billiard table had been pushed over in
-a corner of the room out of the way and in its place was a table at
-which officers sat poring over maps and reports. A telephone was on
-the table and on the walls were large maps. I stretched out on a bare
-rough “crib” to rest. One of the officers called an orderly and said
-something to him which I did not hear. The orderly went into another
-room and returned with an armful of rugs. He placed them in the crib
-and once more I stretched out on this most comfortable couch. But just
-then the telephone rang. I got up, pulled on my boots, put on my coat,
-and as I started out the officer at the table smiled sympathetically
-at me and said “Bon nuit.”
-
-Midnight in the little Swiss chalet. I had returned from a run and had
-lain down to sleep just outside the room where two nights before
-Frederick Norton had fallen. Again there was a call. Some time after
-one o’clock, at the dug-out in the canal bank in front of the
-Esperance farm, I again lay down, only to be called a few minutes
-later. I drove down the road to a post I had not visited before, and
-while the wounded were being placed in the car I was instructed to
-shut off my motor for fear the Germans might hear and open fire. The
-car being filled with three wounded men on stretchers inside, and one
-less seriously wounded on the front seat with me, I started off for
-Ludes. Along the road I struck a small shell hole which gave the car a
-severe jolt and the wounded inside cried out: “Oh, comrade! comrade!”
-In the morning I discovered that the jolt had cracked the front spring
-of the car but the wounded had forgiven me for my poor driving.
-
-At Ludes the hospital was filled and I must push on back to the town
-of Epernay to one of the hospitals there. As I drove into the town at
-daylight I saw a strange sight. Straggling into the town were old men,
-women and children, all looking worn and bedraggled. Some carried
-blankets, some were pushing little carts in which were piled up
-household belongings. Some of the women were carrying babies in their
-arms.
-
-The night before a warning had gone out that an air raid was expected
-and these civilians living under the shadow of the war had taken to
-the “caves” on the outskirts of the city for protection.
-
-I reached the principal hospital in the town and, as frequently
-happened, was sent to another hospital further on. When I arrived
-there I was feeling tired, bedraggled, hungry and out of sorts myself
-after the all night strain. But if I felt like complaining I promptly
-changed my mind and decided to be cheerful.
-
-Stopping my car, I went around to the back and raised the curtain. One
-of the wounded, a young fellow, looked up at me with the pleasantest
-expression in the world and said: “Hello, boy Americaine! Good
-morning!”
-
-But that is the spirit of the French.
-
-
-
-
-X
-
-Here Kultur Passed
-
-
-Toward the end of July we received orders that we were to move from
-the Champagne region, but we did not know just where we were to be
-sent. Early one morning, the order to move having come, we had loaded
-our cars with tents, supplies, automobile parts, all the paraphernalia
-of an ambulance section, and our personal belongings, and had formed
-in a line on the main thoroughfare of the picturesque town of Louvois.
-Stevenson drove up to the head of the procession, blew his whistle
-once and every engine was started; he blew his whistle twice, and we
-were off down the road in the direction of Epernay. The villagers of
-Louvois were on the street to wave us “Au ’voir.” There were old men,
-women and girls. The young men were all at the front.
-
-Outside the town of Epernay we drew up alongside the road and waited
-further instructions. Some thought we were going to Belgium, others
-said we were going down into the Verdun sector. Our French Lieutenant,
-Reymond, had gone on ahead in his car for orders. Presently he
-returned and we learned that we were to drive in the direction of
-Verdun.
-
-Stevenson, at the head of the procession, blew his whistle and once
-more all cars were started――soon we were rolling along the road.
-
-At noon we reached Châlons, where we had luncheon in a café crowded
-with French officers. By late afternoon we reached the outskirts of
-the town of Vietry, and as we drove into the town we saw a squad of
-German prisoners, under guard, marching along the road. If they
-noticed that we were Americans, they showed no emotion even if they
-felt any. At Vietry we were to spend the night. We were shown to a
-large barn in which to sleep. Some Russian troops had occupied the
-barn a short while before and the straw littered about looked rather
-risky. As it promised to be a clear night some of us decided to sleep
-out in the open field under the trees. The cows were less to be feared
-than the straw in the barn or even the avions above.
-
-[Illustration: The Last of Ambulance No. 4]
-
-Having parked our cars, several of us strolled to the banks of the
-historic Marne and were quickly splashing around in the refreshing
-though muddy water. Then over to a café in the city for supper. The
-supper developed into a banquet. It was the first time in a great
-while that the entire Section and its French attachés had all sat
-together at one time and everyone off duty. Singing commenced before
-the meal was half over, and if not all harmonious it was at least
-hearty. The darkness came on but no lights were made in the room on
-account of danger from the avions, but the hilarity did not die out in
-the growing gloom.
-
-Roy Stockwell was obliged to sing several verses of a war song which
-was called “Around Her Leg She Wore a Purple Ribbon,” in which every
-one joined in the chorus, singing:
-
- “Far away, far away,
- She wore it for her lover
- Who was far, far away.”
-
-“Winnie” Wertz, the French cook, sang a pastoral song of peaceful life
-on the farm after the war was over. One or two men tried to make
-speeches but received scant encouragement. The singing continued till
-late in the evening, when we wended our way back to the open field for
-a night of peaceful sleep under the trees. As we walked through the
-city on the way a quartette was lustily singing:
-
- “Far away, far away,
- She wore it for her lover,
- Who was far, far away.”
-
-No doubt the French inhabitants awoke to shrug a shoulder and
-patiently mutter: “Oh, those terrible Americans.”
-
-The next morning we were on our way to Bar le Duc, a picturesque city
-nestled between high hills. At the top of one of these hills, as we
-started the steep descent into the city, we passed a large convent
-almost totally destroyed by avion bombs. Bar le Duc is always subject
-to air raids and shows many marks of the war on its principal streets.
-Again we stopped for the night and here I slept on the sidewalk with
-my head against a sentry box so that no one would fall over me.
-
-On to the town of Evres through a country, as we advanced, showing
-more and more plainly the desolation and waste of the war. Through
-towns deserted of all civilians, over roads dry in the midsummer sun
-and unspeakably dusty from the continual travel toward the front. One
-afternoon in Evres, Curtis and I dropped into the home of an elderly
-French peasant woman for a lunch of delicious cottage cheese and a jug
-of fresh milk. The peasant woman had a sad story to tell. Her husband
-was dead; her son’s home in the village had been destroyed; he had
-been taken prisoner and his wife had fallen victim to the advance of
-Prussian kultur.
-
-At Evres we waited to move on to Verdun and there we learned of the
-great offensive that was soon to take place and we watched the
-preparations for it on a vast scale. We were deeply impressed.
-
-
-
-
-XI
-
-Verdun
-
-
-When we moved up on the morning of August first to take our small part
-in the big offensive, we established our cantonment in the town of
-Houdainville, within about three miles of the city of Verdun. The town
-of Houdainville was conspicuously a war town, being deserted by all
-civilians, crowded with troops and subject to intermittent shelling.
-The houses were all old and many bore the marks of battle. Some of our
-men were billeted together in the second story of a building which was
-infested with rats. The quarters were so small that it was necessary
-to crowd the cots uncomfortably close together. Others of us pitched a
-tent in a barnyard. It was muddy, unsavory and very different from the
-place at Louvais, where we had our tent pitched under the trees
-outside the château of M. Chandon. We realized that we were not to see
-the war at its worst and we felt reconciled to added hardships by the
-fact that our Section had been assigned to the very serious work
-ahead.
-
-That there was very serious work ahead, indeed, had been brought home
-to us while having seen for days and nights the continual stream of
-troops, heavy guns, supplies and munitions moving toward the front. We
-had been told that preparations for this offensive had been going on
-for months.
-
-Had I been so inclined, which I was not, there was little time to
-complain of our surroundings――barely time to note them before I was
-sent out to post duty. Now we were to be on post duty for twenty-four
-hours and then off duty for twenty-four hours, in which to work on our
-cars and rest. This schedule was based on all of the cars in the
-Section being able to run, but there were times when some of the cars
-were not available.
-
-I was sent out to a post at Cassairne Marceau, at the top of a hill
-about three miles in front of Verdun, near the spot which marks the
-extreme advance of the Crown Prince in his attack of 1916. Near here
-the French had stood and said: “They shall not pass.” They never did,
-and I am sure they never will.
-
-Looking back from Cassairne Marceau I could see the ancient fortified
-city of Verdun, crowned by its cathedral on a hill. Close at hand were
-the remains of barracks built shortly before the war. All about was
-desolation, shell holes, pieces of exploded shells. In front of the
-post was a graveyard and during my many times at that post there was
-not a day that I did not see the dead being laid to rest. Here the war
-was seen in its most hideous aspect. Sometimes a wagon would come
-rumbling up to the post with dead piled up like so much cordwood.
-
-My first call to go from here to a front line post came before sunset.
-The post was near Fort Vaux. An officer rode with me to observe
-whether the road could be covered by a car. It was a road that no sane
-person would undertake in peace times under any consideration. Down a
-ravine between two hills, in a country laid absolutely barren by
-continual shell fire, the sides of the hills were pock-marked with
-shell holes; and where at one time, three years before, there had been
-a beautiful forest, there was not now a tree stump, a bush or a patch
-of grass. We drove along the road very slowly indeed, for there was
-danger of breaking springs and axles in passing, as we drove close to
-the artillery as they were firing. I was later glad for the
-opportunity of seeing that road before sunset, for I sometimes covered
-it afterward in the darkness without lights.
-
-We reached the poste de secour, picked up three wounded artillerymen
-and returned with added caution to Cassairne Marceau. It was very
-trying when we wanted to drive fast, in order to get back as quickly
-as possible to a place of comparative safety, that we were obliged to
-drive most slowly to save our wounded and our cars.
-
-Sometime around eleven o’clock that night I lay down on a stretcher in
-the dug-out at Cassairne Marceau to snatch a little sleep while
-waiting for my next call. At that time I was still in good condition
-and had not yet suffered from great fatigue or undue nervous strain
-and consequently could sleep at any time and in any place that the
-opportunity offered. Later on I was to become so fatigued and my
-nerves were so shaken from the continual strain that I could not sleep
-at all. The dug-out served as a dressing station and was equipped for
-operations――surgeons were in attendance there. The place had the odor
-of a hospital, with the added unpleasant damp odor of the underground.
-Not a very satisfactory place in which to sleep, but we slept there
-many times.
-
-I was just dozing off when I heard voices, footsteps and a moaning
-which was very distressing; and I was sufficiently conscious to
-realize that some one badly wounded was being carried in. But I must
-rest――I must sleep while the opportunity offered, so I dozed fitfully,
-never being quite unconscious of the fact that close by me an
-operation was being performed. Finally I was fully awakened by some
-one touching my foot. I sat up――the operation had been completed and I
-was to take the desperately wounded man back to a hospital in Verdun.
-
-It was well past midnight when the man was lifted into the car and I
-started on my dark ride, driving slowly. I had not yet been inside the
-walled city of Verdun. I did not know just where the hospital was. I
-had simply been informed that by crossing a certain bridge, entering a
-certain gate and turning down a certain street I would find it. I
-carried few wounded men who moaned in greater agony than did this
-soldier as I drove on back to Verdun. I found the bridge and crossed
-it. I passed through the gate inside the city walls and I drove slowly
-through the dark, silent, apparently deserted city. It seemed indeed
-like a city of the dead. I came to a square and in the darkness took
-the wrong street. I was doing the best that could be done, and I hoped
-the wounded soldier would live till we reached the hospital. I wished
-for someone to talk to――for some one to help me find the way. Finally
-I saw a sentinel on duty and he directed me down the right street and
-before long we came to the house which was serving as a hospital.
-
-That was my first entrance into the ancient fortified city of Verdun.
-When I saw the inside of my car at daylight I was glad that we had met
-with the sentinel when we did, for I think there could have been but
-little time to lose.
-
-
-
-
-XII
-
-Awaiting the Big Attack
-
-
-We had not been many days at Houdainville when we received orders to
-move up to Beveaux, just a short distance outside the walled city of
-Verdun. The big attack had not yet taken place but was expected at any
-time. In the meanwhile the artillery activity was daily increasing.
-
-At Beveaux there was a large hospital which was almost vacant when we
-moved up there and pitched our tents. It had been made ready for the
-big attack and would probably accommodate fifteen hundred wounded. The
-preparations for the offensive were most impressive and tended to make
-us thoughtful. Though we were now closer to the front, the location of
-our cantonment on high, open ground was a welcome change to all of us.
-Those of us who in Houdainville had our tent in that muddy, unsavory
-barnyard were glad to get out. Those in the Section who had slept in
-the crowded, rat-ridden house, were more than glad of the change. That
-we were close to the war, in fact actually under it, even when off
-duty, was impressed upon us at supper time that first evening at
-Beveaux, when several shells struck within the hospital grounds and
-some hit the large stables adjoining, killing horses and wounding men.
-We all ran for shelter, and supper was delayed for some time. The
-hospital was shelled on several occasions after that.
-
-During our stay at Beveaux we usually retired at night with most of
-our clothes on, partly on account of the avions and partly because our
-work was so arduous that we were likely to be called in the night,
-even when supposedly off duty. On retiring we always had our steel
-helmets and gas masks within reach. Frequently at night when the
-avions came over we were obliged to get out of bed and run for the
-nearby trenches. A canvas tent affords mightly little protection
-against shell fire!
-
-We expected to be at Beveaux for but a very short time before being
-sent back for a rest, but the days went on, the long nights went on
-and the weeks rolled around before we were relieved.
-
-
-
-
-XIII
-
-Under Fire in an Ambulance
-
-
-Twenty-four hours on duty――twenty-four hours off duty: that was the
-schedule in the Verdun sector, based on all the cars being able to
-run, but there was not a day or night that cars were not put out of
-commission, which meant that the work of those who were running was
-increased. Theoretically speaking that was the schedule; practically
-speaking there was no schedule. Sometimes we were on duty thirty hours
-at a stretch, though perhaps in that time we could snatch a little
-sleep between runs; sometimes there was no sleep at all. The days were
-bad, the nights were worse, and day or night, either on or off duty,
-we were always under fire. Almost every time a man came back from post
-he had an experience to tell――it seemed that on our runs we escaped by
-a matter of seconds; shells were always hitting just behind us, in
-front of us and around us. We saw bloodshed all the time. The
-Twenty-third Psalm speaks of “the valley of the shadow of death.” That
-describes the desolate land about where we were. Verdun will go down
-in history as the slaughter house of the world. This was real warfare.
-
-We were working hard all the time but we were buoyed up by the fact
-that soon, almost any day, the big attack would take place and then we
-would be sent back for a rest. The attack was to have taken place on
-August first but was postponed from day to day so that more guns might
-be moved into position, and more supplies, munitions and men moved up.
-Every night on the road we saw that endless procession of supply
-trucks, munitions, guns and men.
-
-We were covering many posts――we were getting very tired even before
-the attack took place. One night the General commanding a division at
-Fort Houdrement asked for more cars to be stationed there and he was
-informed that were no more cars to spare.
-
-He asked “Why?” and was informed that all of our cars were out.
-
-He asked “Where?” and he was informed of the various posts that we
-were covering. He expressed great surprise. He thought we were merely
-serving his division. We were serving an entire Army Corps.
-
-Fort Houdrement was a bad spot and it was a hard road to travel to
-reach there, but bad as it was there were other posts which most of us
-came to dread more. I first saw Fort Houdremont in broad daylight.
-Before that our cars had only gone there at night, because the road
-was so exposed. That I first went there in daylight was not because of
-bravery on my part or because of a desire to establish a precedent. It
-was just the result of an accident.
-
-I had turned in to sleep one night――or to sleep as much of the night
-as might be possible. A couple of my friends had also lain down to
-sleep. As we lay in the darkness under the shelter of the tent we
-could hear the firing of the artillery all along the front. Then a
-sudden gust of cool wind blew the flaps of the tent and we heard the
-patter of rain above our heads. A thunder storm was coming on. The
-sound of the thunder was mingled with the noise of the artillery. Our
-tent was occasionally lighted by flashes of lightning and I could see
-my companions lying awake on their cots. The rain came down in
-torrents, the lightning became louder and the roar of the artillery
-less distinct, until when the storm had reached its height the pouring
-rain and the sound of the thunder drowned out the sound of the
-artillery. And as we lay there one of my friends spoke up in the
-darkness and said quietly: “Phil, it sounds as if God in Heaven is
-still omnipotent.” And I said: “Yes, I am glad that God in Heaven is
-still omnipotent in spite of the fact that the tent is leaking right
-over my face.” Then I pulled the blankets over my head and dozed off
-to sleep――but not for long.
-
-I was soon awakened and told it was my turn out. It was still raining
-hard and I could hear the thunder and see the flashes of lightning as
-I bundled up and went out to my car and started out to find Fort
-Houdremont. I had never been there. I merely had a general direction
-as to where it was. It was a bad night for a ten-mile ride to a post I
-had never been to. It was not quite midnight when I started. The roads
-were slippery and crowded with traffic and progress was slow. About
-four miles out traffic was blocked for over half an hour, part of
-which time I dozed sitting at the wheel. Then once more motors began
-to whirr, trucks were groaning, horses were pulling and tugging,
-officers on horseback were shouting orders.
-
-The procession moved on, getting nearer the battle, and along the road
-we could see the flashes of fire from the artillery and the exploding
-shells as they struck. On through the town of Bras, a desolate shell
-wrecked place, then on about a half a mile beyond. There I saw a
-chance to make time and gain ground by pulling out of the procession,
-driving ahead and crowding into an opening further on. A large motor
-truck loomed up in front of me. I turned sharply to escape being hit
-and ran into a ditch. I was hopelessly stalled.
-
-One of our cars, driven by Holt, came directly back of me. He stopped
-to see if he could give me help. I told him it was impossible for us
-to pull the car out. He saw that for himself and as he drove on he
-shouted “Good-night” to me and I called back “Good-night” to him.
-
-He could not have gone far when I saw a shell burst directly down the
-road over which he had gone. I wondered how close a call he had. Next
-day he told me he had jumped out of his car and was crouching in a
-ditch when the shell struck.
-
-I stood alongside of my car in the rain and mud, shells coming in
-along the road as the procession of the night moved past me. Every one
-had his work to do and must move on. Once four poilus paused long
-enough to see whether they could help push my car out of the ditch,
-but it was useless and they went on.
-
-There was nothing to do but to wait for daylight; and it was a long
-wait. During the night two horses were killed beside my car.
-
-The dawn came on slowly, the rain stopped, the firing became less
-intense. The procession of the night had disappeared I knew not where.
-An empty ammunition wagon came clattering up the road, the driver
-cracking his whip and urging the four horses to greater speed. When
-the sun finally appeared I found myself alone in view of the enemy.
-Alone, excepting for the two dead horses lying in the road. Then I
-went for help.
-
-I walked back to the town of Bras and if it looked forlorn at night it
-looked even more so in the daylight. Places where some houses had once
-stood were now merely marked by débris tumbled into the cellars――dead
-horses were lying about. A French ambulance gave me a lift back to
-Verdun and there I found one of our cars which took me back to our
-cantonment, where I reported my difficulties. Stevenson called to
-Hanna, who was off duty, and in his car we three drove back over the
-road to where I had abandoned my ambulance.
-
-I really was sceptical about finding anything more than a pile of
-wreckage, but the car was still there and so were the two dead horses.
-Before we proceeded to pull my car out with the aid of Hanna’s car, I
-tenderly lifted an unexploded shell from under the rear wheel, carried
-it over to the other side of the road and laid it down.
-
-Then on to Houdrement――Stevenson riding with me and Hanna following in
-his car. Reaching there, we walked up the side of a steep hill to the
-dressing station and inquired for any wounded that might be there. I
-was caked with mud from head to foot. A French officer smiled at my
-appearance. I saluted and he extended his hand. The French officers
-were usually quite as polite to us as if we were officers ourselves.
-
-We found some wounded who would otherwise have been kept there until
-darkness had set in. After that our Section covered the run to Fort
-Houdremont in daylight with regularity; and in spite of the fact that
-the road was exposed to view, most of us found the daylight run much
-less nerve-racking than in the night.
-
-“Do the boche fire on ambulances?” I have sometimes been asked.
-
-“Certainly!” I have answered.
-
-
-
-
-XIV
-
-The Big Shells Come Over
-
-
-The days and nights went on, but still the attack did not take place,
-but the artillery duels were growing in intensity every night.
-
-If there was any belief that preparations for the attack were not
-known, this belief was dispelled when the Germans erected a sign over
-their trenches reading――
-
-“WE WILL BE WAITING FOR YOU ON THE FIFTEENTH”――but the fifteenth
-passed by and――the attack did not take place. We were getting very
-tired――we were becoming conscious that we had nerves――the driving
-became more hazardous and terrifying with the increased activity of
-the artillery.
-
-Early on the evening of August seventeenth, I was off duty and was
-standing talking to some of the fellows, enjoying an after supper pipe
-and watching the anti-aircraft guns popping at a German aeroplane when
-Stevenson walked up. He said a telephone message had just come in
-informing him that Stockwell had broken the front spring of his car
-out at Fort Houdremont. I was to take a new spring out and Pearl was
-to go along to help make the repairs.
-
-William Pearl was our volunteer mechanician and had been with the
-Section for some time. Before that he had been a Rhodes scholar. After
-the war he would practice law.
-
-Pearl and I started off and we had not gone far when it began to
-rain――it frequently rained at Verdun. We stopped to slip our rubber
-ponchos over our heads. Perhaps that brief delay was the cause of what
-happened shortly after. A matter of seconds sometimes changes destiny
-when at the front. I recall that on one occasion I slowed down my car
-for a few seconds, just long enough to light a cigarette, and as I
-paused a shell struck on the road, not far in front of me. I am sure
-but for the lighting of that cigarette, the shell would have scored a
-direct hit. Yet some people say that cigarettes are an unmixed evil!
-
-We drove on in the rain along the bank of the Meuse past the city of
-Verdun, up a long hill along which were formed the troops, the
-munition trucks, the cannon, the camions waiting to move toward the
-front under darkness; and when the procession once started to move, we
-knew from experience that progress would be slow along the road. So we
-drove as rapidly as possible, and as we drove, we got into
-conversation and Pearl told me that in all his experience Section One
-had never known anything worse that what we had been through at
-Verdun. I had heard Ned Townsend say the same thing, and Townsend had
-been at the front most of the time since the war started.
-
-As we began to descend the long hill, we could see shells striking
-near the road and when we reached the bottom of the hill, we came to a
-large camion ditched and deserted on one side of the road and on the
-other side of the road a large shell hole. It was now dusk and I
-stopped my car to see whether I could pass without running into the
-hole. Then we heard the terrific shriek to which our ears had become
-accustomed――and then the crash. Pearl had stepped partly from the seat
-and had crouched down――I had put my head down and covered my face with
-my arms. The pieces of shell and rocks spattered around the car and
-hit it in several places. Each fraction of a second I expected to feel
-a stinging sensation but I quickly came to a realization that I was
-not scratched. I raised my head and asked――“Are you all right, Pearl?”
-Then I saw a magnificent display of calm courage. As he stood up,
-Pearl replied as quietly as if he had discovered something wrong with
-the front tire: “I think my arm is gone.”
-
-It was not gone but badly shattered. With nerves calm and head cool,
-though he was bleeding badly, he got up on the seat beside me. The
-nearest dressing station was at Houdrement and we drove on. I am not
-sure, but I think a shell must have struck behind us at that moment
-because I later discovered a hole in the rear curtain of the car and
-the rear hub cap was cut as if by a steel chisel.
-
-At Houdrement we left the car at the cross roads and started to climb
-the steep muddy embankment to reach the dressing post. Pearl was
-losing blood and getting weak, but still calm. I am sure he was more
-calm than I was. While his wound was being dressed I telephoned and
-reported the accident to Stevenson. I reported that I would remain at
-Houdrement with Pearl until he could be moved. There was some question
-as to whether he might be obliged to stay all night, but it was
-finally decided to move him back to the hospital at Beveaux without
-waiting.
-
-It was now pitch dark and the roads were crowded with traffic coming
-toward the front. Progress was extremely slow on the way back. We
-would perhaps drive a quarter of a mile and then be held up for a
-quarter of an hour. Shells were arriving and shells were departing. It
-was a bad night, but all nights were hideously bad in front of Verdun.
-Whenever we stopped, I would open the little front door of the car and
-ask Pearl how he felt and always would come back the reply, “All
-right.” Once we were held up for an unusually long time and I walked
-ahead to see what was holding up the traffic. It was a large gun that
-had become ditched and men and horses and trucks were pulling and
-groaning and straining. Finally we were on our way and without further
-bad delays we reached the hospital at Beveaux. It had taken us two
-hours to cover less than ten miles.
-
-I saw Pearl carried from his stretcher and tucked in bed and then I
-could not refrain from telling him what I felt: “Pearl, you have got
-about the finest, coolest nerve of any man I have ever seen.”
-
-
-
-
-XV
-
-Under the Shell Shower
-
-
-Still the attack did not take place and still we were staying on and
-getting very tired.
-
-On the morning and afternoon of the twentieth, I made several trips to
-Houdremont. Late in the afternoon we heard that the long delayed and
-much heralded attack would start that night. As I was returning to
-Houdremont about five o’clock, Stevenson instructed me to wait there
-until midnight for wounded and then to return and go off duty.
-
-At dusk began the most terrific artillery firing that I had ever
-heard. There was not a second’s cessation in the firing――it was as
-continual and rapid as the rolling of a snare drum. Standing on the
-hill in front of the poste de secours at Houdrement in front of the
-French guns the shells were slipping through the air; that is the way
-they sounded, as if they were being shot along greased planes. I not
-only heard the departing shells, I actually saw them――black spots
-flying through space. At first I was sceptical. I thought perhaps my
-vision had become impaired or perhaps it was the effect of deranged
-nerves, but I asked White if he could see what I did and he said he
-could. Night came on and soon the men in the trenches would “go over
-the top” for the final rush. If it was a strain for us, the waiting
-must have been a most terrible strain for them. There were several
-other cars besides mine at Houdrement as night came on, but I would be
-the last to leave. Stretcher bearers, their faces set and worn, came
-in bearing wounded.
-
-Patterson’s car was loaded and he started back over the bombarded road
-for Beveaux. Hanna’s car was loaded and he started back. White’s car
-was loaded and at the foot of the hill his car broke down and under
-shrapnel fire the wounded were transferred to another car. Kirtsburg’s
-car was loaded and he started back. Then I was the only one left. I
-sat down beside a stretcher bearer and we smoked in silence. The
-waiting seemed unbearable, listening to the ceaseless thunder of the
-guns. I fully realized, when I did start, just what I must pass
-through to get back to the hospital at Beveaux, nearly ten miles away.
-I wondered how much longer I must wait. I began to realize for the
-first time how men were glad to be slightly wounded in order to get
-out of that hell. Pieces of shell were spattering around where we sat,
-so we went inside underground. A soldier who had been brought in just
-a little while before was raving and fighting――he had gone insane.
-Gendarmes threw him to the floor.
-
-At ten o’clock an operation was being performed, and as we stood close
-to the operating table, my friend the stretcher bearer brought me a
-cup of tea. I thought at the moment the strain of waiting to go into
-the inferno outside was the worst experience I had ever known. But at
-last the time came――my ambulance was loaded and I started back――not by
-way of Bras, because gas was coming in and settling in the lowlands,
-but up a steep long hill which at least would be comparatively free
-from gas――every inch of the way passing artillery pounding
-incessantly, so that I could not distinguish the difference between
-the sound of arriving and departing shells. The flashes of fire in my
-face were so blinding that I was obliged time and again to pause and
-get my bearings, to avoid running off the road.
-
-Three times while pulling up that long hill, the engine of my car
-stalled and I would climb over the wounded soldier sitting by my side
-and get the engine started again. I felt fatigued almost to the
-breaking point. I felt sure that if I reached Beveaux I would be
-physically unable to drive again that night. I thought of the weary,
-drawn faces of those stretcher bearers back at Houdremont, silently
-going out and silently returning with their burdens. I thought of my
-own face. This was not vanity――it was simply that my face seemed to
-pinch at the cheek bones.
-
-[Illustration: Where Men Live Like Rats and With Them]
-
-On I went until my car, jerking and limping on three cylinders, drew
-up on the grounds at the Beveaux hospital. But after the car had
-stopped, it still seemed to be moving. Others told me they had
-experienced the same sensation, when they had almost reached the point
-of exhaustion.
-
-I walked over to our dining tent――stumbled over a guy rope and went
-inside. I had absolute confidence in the forethought of Stevenson. I
-struck a match, found some cold meat, a piece of bread and a cup of
-pinard; then I tumbled into my cot.
-
-All along the front I could hear the incessant pounding of the guns,
-like the rolling of a snare drum, and then I fell asleep.
-
-
-
-
-XVI
-
-Aftermath of Battle
-
-
-The attack had taken place――thousands had been killed and wounded on
-both sides of the lines, but the French had taken many German
-prisoners. They had advanced their lines――they had gained important
-hills. The Germans had been driven back. The attack had been a
-success.
-
-But still no relief came for us, we must stay on, “just for three or
-four days longer,” through the counter attack of the Germans. We
-stayed on through the counter attack. Events were happening fast to
-us. A couple of our men had taken sick――had broken down under the
-strain and been sent in to Paris. Gamble had broken his arm cranking
-his car and he was sent in to Paris. Oller developed appendicitis and
-was sent to a hospital a little further back from the lines for an
-operation. The hospital where he went was shelled and some of the
-occupants were killed. Oller had stayed on much longer than most men
-would in his condition. Holt was gassed――Buhl was gassed――Patterson
-was gassed; but they stayed on. Drivers were all having narrow
-escapes.
-
-Young Tapley had just loaded his car with wounded when a big shell
-came shrieking in. Tapley threw himself on his face as the shell
-struck and exploded close to his car. The sides of the car were blown
-out and all the wounded were instantly killed. White was lying on his
-face close to him. Another car was squarely hit and completely
-demolished. Fortunately no one was in it at the moment. Cram, while
-driving at night, wearing a gas mask, drove over a twenty-foot
-embankment――he rolled out of the car on a dead horse――he fell into a
-trench on a dead man. A gendarme on horseback, shot in the breast by
-shrapnel, toppled from his horse directly in front of Purdy’s car.
-There was not a single car in the Section which was not hit at least
-once. “Red” Day, who had succeeded Pearl as mechanician, was kept
-working night and morning and his untiring toil helped to save the
-Section and keep it rolling.
-
-We had been relieved from the run to Houdremont and were now centring
-our efforts on the posts as far as Fort Douaumont; and that was worse,
-because the roads were exposed to view most of the way. The country
-was laid absolutely barren and along the way, men burrowed holes in
-the ground and lived like rats――and with them. In the day time we
-might drive along those roads and see scarcely a human being, and yet
-thousands of human beings were all about us. As we drove along, rats
-would scurry across the roads. Once I saw a dead rat in the middle of
-the road and it made me pessimistic. Dead horses were lying about
-which long since should have been covered over had time permitted.
-Sometimes wounded horses were staggering about the road, suffering
-pitifully and impeding traffic. On one of these occasions, our French
-Lieutenant Reymond drove out and with a revolver shot several of the
-wounded horses and then had them cleared from the road. Under fire
-Reymond was calm, he was magnificent. Back at Louvois I had liked
-Reymond, but at Verdun I admired him.
-
-Along the roads I sometimes saw big shell holes, enormous craters
-which made me very thoughtful. We were under fire day and night,
-whether on or off duty. Overhead, we daily watched the air duels of
-the avions. Sometimes a German plane would come across, flying
-straight, swift and low to attack an observation balloon and as it
-opened fire, we would see the man in the observation basket shoot
-straight down through the air, then his parachute would open up and
-perhaps he would land in safety. On one occasion I saw a French plane
-collapse in the air and come swirling down like a dead leaf――down,
-down, crashing to the ground, and I drove on not feeling a single
-sensation. I was dead tired and had passed the stage of feeling a
-thrill even of horror.
-
-At night the avions were always overhead, dropping bombs――sometimes a
-munition plant would be hit and explosion after explosion would light
-the sky for several hours. Still we stayed on――the relief did not
-come.
-
-And while we were voluntarily and willingly, yes even very cheerfully,
-under fire for the cause, it was most shocking to read in the papers
-that disloyalty went unpunished back in the United States. Our troops
-Over There are entitled to the assurance that it is not safe for
-anyone at home to stab them in the back.
-
-
-
-
-XVII
-
-In the Valley of the Shadow
-
-
-On the morning of September first, after we had been at Verdun for a
-month under fire, as we were eating breakfast, three Englishmen walked
-into our dining tent. They were members of Section One, English
-Ambulance Corps. They informed us that their Section had been sent up
-to relieve us. We were elated. We invited them to sit down for
-breakfast with us, for we wanted to be decently polite and reserved. A
-little later it turned out they had been misinformed. They had merely
-been sent up to assist us. We were dejected. We were to stay on, “just
-three or four days longer.”
-
-The French were going to follow up their success of August twentieth
-with another attack which would take place “’most any day” and then we
-would be sent back for rest. The centre of this attack was to take
-place in front of Fort Douaumont, and, if anything, it would be harder
-on us than when we were at Haudremont on the twentieth.
-
-The attack took place on the seventh of September and while some
-ground was gained, the success was not as decisive as the previous
-attack.
-
-But the relief did not come for us, we were to stay on, “just for two
-or three days longer,” through the counter attack of the Germans.
-
-Personally I was playing out very rapidly. I was losing the ability to
-relax and recuperate when off duty. I was losing the ability to
-sleep――I was reaching the stage of premonitions. I hoped that I might
-last out until relief came. I wanted to finish decently. I was afraid
-of myself――I was afraid I might turn coward――I was afraid I might turn
-quitter.
-
-Then came a drive that I shall always remember. It was during the
-counter attack of the Germans. I shall always remember it, for one
-reason, because I was almost tempted to turn coward and quit.
-
-The wounded were coming in fast at Douaumont, both French and German,
-and all of our cars were on duty――at least all that were able to run.
-It was just about noon when I started, and the sun was shining
-cheerfully enough overhead but it was hell on earth. A short distance
-out I passed one of the English cars coming in and the driver shouted
-to me to have my gas mask ready. I confess I had a feeling of fear. I
-had seen the victims of poison gas and I had a greater dread of that
-than I had of shells, if such a thing were possible, and besides a
-couple of nights before during a period that I had been on constant
-duty for thirty hours in which time I had punctured six tires, had had
-a slight touch of gas and had felt rather ragged ever since. About
-four miles out, I passed one of our cars and the driver called to me
-something about big shells and gas. I stopped to call back for more
-particulars, but he was too far back to hear me. I was wavering but I
-drove on. A little further and I could see the shells coming in. I
-could see the gas clouds. I stopped my car――I got out and then I had
-the hardest argument I have ever had with myself. First I argued: “It
-is suicide to go on, I am justified in turning back and reporting the
-road is impassable.” Then I argued with myself, “But if I do go on and
-am hit, the agony will be over with in a few minutes, but if I turn
-back, the agony will be with me the rest of my life.” So I put on my
-gas mask and drove on.
-
-Approaching the brow of the hill, I saw three of our cars drawn up
-alongside the road. I stopped my car directly behind them and walked
-ahead. The engine of one of the cars was still running, but the cars
-were all deserted. At that minute a shell struck just at the brow of
-the hill. The stop had undoubtedly saved me. I ran down an embankment
-into a deserted dug-out and there I crouched, sweltering in my gas
-mask. A few minuter later I ran out, jumped into my ambulance, passing
-the three deserted cars and drove on, trembling so that I could
-scarcely keep my feet on the right pedals. I reached the post at
-Douaumont and there in the entrance was our French Lieutenant Reymond
-in his steel helmet, calm and undisturbed, directing and assisting in
-the loading of the ambulances. He quietly and good-naturedly took me
-to task because my boots were not properly laced. I gave him a
-cigarette and lighted one myself. Then I went inside the post where
-tea was being ladled out to the stretcher bearers. This steadied me a
-bit. I went out. The place was littered with wounded, mostly Germans.
-Lieutenant Reymond assisted me in lifting wounded Germans into the
-car.
-
-Then I drove back and went off duty. Some time in the middle of the
-night I had a terrible nightmare and went through the whole experience
-over again, and in it I dreamed that I had an urgent call to go back
-to the same post. I woke up, but the dream had been so vivid that I
-really thought I had received a call. I pulled on my boots and, partly
-dressed, started for my car. Stevenson and “Red” Day who were out
-there informed me there had been no call and sent me back to bed.
-Stevenson gave me a drug to make me sleep. Later, I found that “Red”
-Day deliberately fixed my car so it would not run in the event of my
-receiving any more imaginary calls in the night.
-
-It was the day following that, as I was sitting on the end of my cot
-about to lie down, a shell struck outside and a piece of the shell
-about the size of an inkwell ripped a hole in the tent and struck on
-my pillow. I picked it up while it was still hot, walked out and
-showed it to Lieutenant Reymond and we laughed together over the
-incident. Lieutenant Reymond’s laugh was fairly hearty.
-
-On the fifteenth of September, after forty-five days and forty-five
-nights under shell fire day and night, we received orders to go on
-repose. A little while later Stevenson packed me in his staff car and
-started me on my way to Paris to see a doctor.
-
-I was not elated――I was utterly dejected. I had wanted to finish
-strong and I had all but finished in the discard. “Take a month off or
-as long as you need, but I want you to come back,” was Steve’s kind
-and cheering parting, as the car pulled down the road.
-
-The men in the Section had all been wonderful. Lieutenant Reymond had
-been magnificent, but I am sure but for the brainy, watchful,
-sympathetic leadership of William Yorke Stevenson, the Section would
-never have held together those long days and nights, in the seething,
-shrieking, blood-stained hell in front of Verdun――“The valley of the
-shadow of death.”
-
-
-
-
-XVIII
-
-In Paris
-
-
-On leaving the Section, I was feeling too tired and dejected to
-experience any deep regrets that I would not be with my friends for
-the celebration which had been planned upon reaching Bar le Duc. Also
-I was feeling a little depressed in starting off for Paris broke,
-penniless, not a franc in my pocket. As a matter of fact I had been in
-that financial condition (if such a condition can be called financial)
-for nearly two months, because a cablegram which I had sent to the
-United States the latter part of July had not reached its destination.
-Whether it had been lost in the ocean or had been confiscated and
-hypothecated for what it was worth by the enemy, I shall never know.
-Enough to say that I was broke.
-
-During those long weary days and nights and weeks, I had not possessed
-the price of a cigarette and during that time I had grown to have the
-firmest convictions that anyone who is opposed to sending tobacco to
-the Allies is either most happily ignorant of the nerve-racking strain
-of war or is out and out pro-German.
-
-Yet I was not allowed to suffer too much, for my friends in the
-Section, evidently believing that I was honest, were very kind to me,
-so I managed to have a smoke with a fair degree of regularity. I
-borrowed two francs from Stockwell with which I bought a pipe in which
-I smoked Ned Townsend’s “granulated” or even the terrible French
-tobacco when I thought that Ned Townsend might feel that I was
-imposing on him too much. I was rather clumsy at rolling cigarettes,
-but Frank Farnham was very helpful in that respect. He became so
-accustomed to performing this kind service for me that all I had to do
-was to look at him and say, “Farney” and out would come his bag of
-tobacco.
-
-A few days before leaving the Section, I had written in to Paris to
-despatch a second cablegram to the United States and I hoped upon
-reaching Paris I would find the essential reply waiting for me at the
-banking house of Morgan-Harjes.
-
-Just as I was about to get into the Staff car to start for Paris, it
-was “Farney” who came up to me and handed me twenty francs to see me
-through the journey.
-
-It was midnight when I reached Paris and I was completely tired out. I
-engaged a taxicab and told the chauffeur to drive to Henry’s, Number
-Eleven, Rue Volney. Henry’s Hotel had been the semi-official
-headquarters of Section One in Paris practically since the war
-started. Here at least I could make myself known.
-
-To be sure, I had some excellent letters to people in Paris but I
-certainty was not going to use them to establish credit, and I did not
-feel up to social calls.
-
-Before the war, Henry’s had been something of a rendezvous for rich
-sporting men, those who followed the races and the like. Since the
-war, it was still patronized by those who had gone there before and
-also by aviators, ambulanciers, army officers, French, English and
-American. Henry had a transient business and he also held a clientèle.
-When I had been there in June, I had seen certain well dressed, well
-groomed young and middle aged men drifting in at certain hours. I saw
-these same faces there again in September and also saw them again in
-December. I wondered what their occupations might be, either real or
-ostensible. Almost any day between five and six, Henry could be seen
-shaking dice with his clientèle.
-
-Henry was a little short trim fellow with a florid face, grey
-moustache and usually dressed immaculately in a frock coat. He wore
-glasses when he took inventory of the cash register. When he took
-inventory of people, he usually squinted his eyes into little slits,
-so that people who were being inventoried would scarcely realize that
-they were being noticed. Among foreigners and Parisians, Henry was one
-of the characters of the city. I say “was,” because Henry has since
-passed on to another world. When I reached there the hotel was closed
-but a ring on the bell brought the concièrge to the door in his
-pajamas and bath robe. I was shown to a room with a bed in it, white
-pillows, clean sheets――and it was very nice.
-
-I was not long in getting to bed and not much longer in getting to
-sleep, but in my sleep I was once more back at Verdun. I could hear
-the aeroplanes whirring overhead――I could hear the bursting shells――I
-could see the dead horses on the crowded roads, the rats and filth,
-the desolation of the front. Not a very peaceful sleep; and when I
-awoke I felt somewhat confused as I looked over toward the windows and
-saw the heavy curtains drawn together. A clock was ticking on the
-mantel. It was nearly nine o’clock. Beside the bed I observed a
-telephone and without raising my head from the soft, comfortable,
-clean white pillow, I reached for it. I might be broke, but at least I
-was going to have one good meal to fortify me for the day. The office
-answered the call. “Grapefruit,” I said; “soft boiled eggs, toast with
-butter on it, coffee――and a pack of cigarettes.” I ordered an
-expensive brand of cigarettes, as I was afraid it might hurt my credit
-to call for cheap ones. Then I closed my eyes and dozed peacefully.
-
-A little later in the morning, I met Henry. We sat down on the sofa at
-the foot of the stairs, and I told him Ned Townsend, Stevenson and the
-other men in the Section had sent him their best regards. Then I told
-him I was broke but added quickly that I expected a cablegram any
-day――perhaps to-day. Henry was very nice and polite about it and told
-me not to worry.
-
-When I went out of the hotel, I intended to go over to the offices of
-Morgan-Harjes and learn whether a reply had come to my second
-cablegram, but I really did not feel strong enough to stand any
-unfavorable news. A hack driver coming along Rue Volney cracked his
-whip and I almost fell on the pavement. My nerves seemed to be
-temporarily shattered. I still had a few francs left that “Farney” had
-given me, so I called a taxi-cab and drove to 21 Rue Reynouard, the
-headquarters of the American Field Service. Dr. Lines looked me over
-and informed me that my heart was in bad condition and that I needed a
-complete rest. He suggested sending me out to a convalescent hospital
-in the country, but I did not feel well enough to go to a hospital――I
-did not want to see the inside of a hospital and――besides, I was
-waiting for a cablegram from the States. Later in the day I pulled
-myself together and went down Boulevard Haussmann to the offices of
-Morgan-Harjes. About that place I remembered having written to my
-partner in the banking business, that while their furniture is not as
-handsome as ours, they seemed to have more customers.
-
-At Morgan-Harjes there was no news for me.
-
-I went back to Henry’s and retired for the afternoon. I arose for
-supper, which I had in the café――and signed for it; a short walk as
-far as the Café de la Paix, back to Henry’s and to bed, back to sleep,
-back to Verdun――back to the shrieking shells, the whirr of the
-aeroplanes, the rats, and the crowded, bloodstained roads.
-
-Waking the next morning, I reached for the telephone, breakfasted in
-bed and dozed until noon, then walked over to Morgan-Harjes.
-
-No news――
-
-After a fashion I have learned to study expression in faces; and on
-the days immediately following, when I got out of bed and went to
-Morgan-Harjes, I could tell by the expression of the clerk’s face
-before he spoke to me that there was no news. I also noticed by the
-expression on Henry’s face that I should begin to worry. He was not
-wearing his glasses but he was squinting his eyes.
-
-I spent most of my time in bed. I needed the rest. The crowds, the
-boulevards, the early evening café life, the movies, the Follies――none
-of these had any allurement for me. I think it was on the fifth day
-that I ran into my poet friend young Bob Hillyer of Harvard and South
-Orange, New Jersey. He too had been out to the front with an Ambulance
-Section and was now on his way back to Cambridge, Massachusetts, where
-he was going to accept a professorship in the university which has
-made that town fairly famous.
-
-I was very glad to see Bob Hillyer again in spite of the fact that he
-told me I looked perfectly terrible and should really return to the
-States and not think of going back to the front. He asked me to dinner
-with himself and a friend of his. I protested, mildly suggesting that
-they take dinner with me at Henry’s, but the stronger will prevailed
-and the three of us had dinner together at a little quiet outdoor café
-underneath the awnings.
-
-They walked back to Henry’s with me, where my pride and hospitality
-got the better of my judgment.
-
-Wouldn’t they come in and have a little cordial before going along?
-
-Certainly!
-
-We went inside――the cordials were ordered――I laid down three francs.
-
-“Four francs, fifty, Mr. Rice,” said George, who had come to know me
-by name from having served me my breakfast in bed.
-
-I picked up the three francs, put them in my pocket and said, “Please
-put it on my bill, George.” It is really terrible to be apparently
-well-to-do and not have any money to do it with.
-
-Hillyer and his friend said “Good-night,” and I promptly went to bed.
-It was a little past midnight I think and I had been fast asleep for
-some time, back at Verdun with the bursting shells and scurrying and
-scurrilous rats, when I suddenly became conscious of the fact that a
-firm hand was resting on each one of my shoulders. I awoke with a
-start and there stood Ned Townsend smiling broadly.
-
-“Get up,” he said. “Don’t you know it is your turn out to post?” At
-the foot of the bed stood “Red” Day. They had just reached Paris and
-informed me they had come on from the front to cheer me up a bit.
-“Farney” was with them too.
-
-Why say I was glad to see them all? They sat on the side of the bed
-and told me about the banquet at Bar le Duc and Ned told me that “Red”
-and “Farney” were slated for the Croix de Guerre, which was very good
-news.
-
-Townsend had received the Croix de Guerre a long time before.
-
-We had late breakfast together and they paid for it and then I went
-around to Morgan-Harjes. I read the expression on the clerk’s face as
-I stepped up to the window. When I left, I discovered there was a
-spring to my step which had been absent on the previous days.
-
-I walked rapidly back to Henry’s and into the hotel. Henry was in the
-hallway at the foot of the stairs. As he saw me, I observed the
-expression on his face――he was not wearing his glasses but his eyes
-were squinted into little slits. I knew what was coming as he said he
-would like to speak to me. I cheerfully replied: “It is all right, the
-cablegram has come.”
-
-When I saw Ned Townsend, “Red” Day and “Farney,” I told them they were
-to have supper at a certain quiet little café of mine, opposite the
-“Chinese Umbrella.”
-
-
-
-
-XIX
-
-Aillianville
-
-
-Though my leave had not expired, I decided to return to the front with
-Townsend, “Red” Day and “Farney.” The Section had moved down into
-Lorraine, in the foot hills of the Vosges, the land of Joan of Arc. We
-found our Section in the town of Aillianville. There a barn had been
-converted into a dining room and up in the loft some of the men had
-placed their cots, while others were billeted in the homes of the
-townspeople――plain but wonderfully kindhearted peasant folks whose
-dress was in keeping with the surroundings and who splashed around the
-muddy streets in their wooden sabots――and the streets were often
-muddy, for it rained a great deal of the time. But in spite of
-frequent rains it was none the less delightful here. It was a most
-pleasant contrast to the desolation in front of Verdun――to see
-unmolested forests, the foliage turning to autumn colors――to see cows
-grazing in the fields――sometimes a dog on a frolic, barking at their
-heels――to see peasant women sitting in the fields with their knitting
-and keeping a watchful eye on the cattle――and the war not so very many
-miles away.
-
-Ned Townsend and I lost no time in finding quarters in the home of a
-peasant. The house, which could not have been built later than the
-seventeenth century, had two rooms and a garret. One room with open
-fire place served as a kitchen, living room and bedroom all combined.
-A bed was built in the wall and during the day was hidden by curtains.
-Here slept the patron Tourgant and his wife. Townsend and I took the
-other room, which had two beds in it. One of the window panes was
-gone, but this was none the less luxury. Our work was light and we
-enjoyed the life to the fullest extent. We could retire at night with
-a sense of security that we were not likely to be disturbed before
-morning. The house stood under the shadow of an ancient church and if
-we did lie awake, we could hear the clock in the steeple chiming off
-the quarter hours. It was sometimes pleasant to awaken in the middle
-of the night to hear the clock striking the hour and then to fall
-asleep again with the thought that there were some hours left for
-undisturbed rest.
-
-It was usually Madame Tourgant, with wrinkled face, bronzed like a
-gipsy, who called us in the morning and set a cup of hot coffee by our
-beds. Sometimes when we came in late, chilled and wet with the rain,
-Monsieur Tourgant would get out of bed, pull on a few clothes, kick
-the dying embers of the faggots on the hearth into life and heat a cup
-of coffee for us. And so if there was some work to do, there was time
-for rest and relaxation.
-
-In this country, it had once been the sport of kings to hunt the wild
-boar. Now the kings were otherwise engaged, but it was still the sport
-of peasants and poilus. Kings do not control all the sport there
-is――especially now.
-
-One night we went out on a wild boar hunt, skirting the edge of a
-thick forest, not far from Aillianville down in the direction of the
-ancient town of Grand. Midnight, our hunt being unsuccessful, we sat
-down on the ground in the moonlight and enjoyed the feast which we had
-brought with us. We did not have another opportunity to go boar
-hunting because of the rains, which caused Ned Townsend――or was it
-“Red” Day?――to complain that the ground was too wet to sit on.
-
-But if we had been unsuccessful on our hunt, our patron M. Tourgant
-fared better, bringing one in a couple of days later and the following
-night we were invited to sit around the open fireplace while Madame
-Tourgant put slices of it to sizzling over the faggots on the open
-fireplace. She prepared other things for the supper too. Some French
-soldiers that we knew were with us and I am sure ’most any king would
-have relinquished his crown for a night, to have sat under those old
-blackened rafters and enjoyed the sport of ordinary mortals.
-
-Sometimes in Aillianville we would drop into the little “Cheval Blanc
-Café” to write letters or sit up at the open log fireplace with Madame
-Julie and her husband the patron and while drying our feet which were
-usually wet, read the romances of Alexandre Dumas and the like;
-sometimes the butcher maidens from the neighboring town of Grand would
-come driving along with their butcher wagon and from them we would
-procure a slice of ham or bacon which Madame Julie would cook for us
-with an omelette. Sometimes in the early evening, we played dominoes
-in the “Cheval Blanc” for stakes which were not ruinous. In the early
-evening Madame Julie’s niece Marie might drop in to help her with the
-dishes.
-
-Marie was a cripple girl, but she was none the less the queen of all
-Aillianville. Her father owned his own comfortable little home and was
-the possessor of more cows than anyone else in the town. Marie’s
-cheeks were bronzed from the sun while watching her father’s cows. Her
-teeth shone white when she smiled. She had a noble brow and a regal
-face. Given the opportunity of two or three years in a fashionable
-finishing school, provided she did not become too highly educated,
-Marie could have been transplanted to Madison Avenue or Rittenhouse
-Square and scored a decided hit. I have it from one who lives not far
-from Madison Avenue and confirmed by one who lives not far from
-Rittenhouse Square. Marie will probably marry a poilu returning from
-the war with one arm and a Croix de Guerre and live happily ever after
-in the peaceful town of Aillianville.
-
-Sometimes sitting by the log fire in the “Cheval Blanc,” we would hear
-the clank of wooden sabots on the stone pavement outside, the door
-would open and old Jacques, the blacksmith of rugged voice and jet
-black beard, would bluster in for his bottle of wine.
-
-We lived with the peasants and loved them. They were kind, polite,
-chivalrous――they were real.
-
-On occasion, there was music in the evening in the “Lion d’Or Café”
-further down the street. One night, toward the end of October, we held
-a dance in the “Lion d’Or.” A guitar and a mandolin furnished the
-music. The villagers came around in their wooden sabots. French
-soldiers in their blue uniforms were there. Back in the shadow of a
-corner, a group of officers sat enjoying the scene, no doubt wishing
-they might take an active part. In the course of the evening, a young
-fellow was lifted on a table and sang “Madelon,” a song popular with
-the French just then.
-
-It was pretty close to midnight when a message came in that one of our
-cars had broken down along the road about ten miles out. A relief
-party was organized and the dance came to an end.
-
-It had been snowing in the late afternoon and evening. When we went
-out of the Lion d’Or the moon was breaking through the clouds, and the
-streets, tile roofs of the houses and the church steeples were white
-with snow.
-
-Not one of us who was not a little sad a few days later on receiving
-orders to move from the town of Aillianville to the ancient town of
-Beaufromont, built on the side of a steep hill. We were glad that the
-villagers also expressed sorrow at the parting. Some of those plain
-peasant women were kind enough to weep a little as they smilingly
-waved “Au ’voir” to us.
-
-Our old patron, the boar hunter Tourgant, was so anxious to bid us a
-fitting farewell when we started in the early morning that he stayed
-up most of the night. When we moved out of the town he was asleep in
-the blacksmith shop of old Jacques of rugged voice and jet black
-beard.
-
-As we drew up in line outside the village, someone commemorated the
-departure in verse:
-
- Farewell, my Aillianville, in fair Lorraine,
- Town where sun shines through the rain,
- The “Cheval Blanc,” the “Lion d’Or,”
- “Au ’voir,” farewell forever more.
- I was with you when woods were brown,
- When boars were hunted on the down,
- When log fire crackled on the hearth
- And in the evening there was mirth
- And music in the town I love so well,
- Oh, Aillianville, au ’voir, farewell.
-
-During our stay in Aillianville, Section One, American Field Service
-Volunteers, was taken over by the American army and there ceased to be
-any volunteer ambulance service. My work was done, but the Section
-being short of men I agreed to stay on indefinitely until new men came
-on.
-
-One day, to be exact, Thanksgiving morning, outside the town of
-Neufchateau, on the road to Nancy, I saw some French troops drawn up
-on review. A band was playing at their head. By a strange coincidence
-I had heard that same band playing once before back in Houdainville as
-those same troops were advancing for the big offensive in front of
-Verdun.
-
-On this Thanksgiving morning, the review being over, the men stacked
-arms and walked about the field. One of the soldiers walked over to
-where I was talking with some friends. He wore a steel helmet, but
-underneath the visor I could see a scar across his forehead and there
-was a scar on his cheek. He asked me if I remembered him and I was
-obliged to confess that I did not. He then informed me that on
-September second, in front of Douaumont, when he had received these
-two scars, I had carried him back. No wonder I had not recognized him.
-
- [Illustration: Rice Purdy
- In Front of Verdun]
-
-Then as we stood there I heard another band playing in the distance.
-It grew nearer and nearer till at last I saw an American flag rising
-over the brow of the hill and back of it swinging along the road four
-thousand men in khaki.
-
-I confess I felt a thrill!
-
-
-
-
-XX
-
-Vive l’Amérique! Vive la France!
-
-
-The delightful days at Aillianville will always stand out in my memory
-in marked contrast with the forty-five days and forty-five long nights
-that we spent before Verdun. I shall always remember a night in a
-dug-out in front of Verdun toward the end of our long siege. The place
-was dimly lighted. At one end was a table on which there was a
-telephone. A French officer sat there writing reports and answering
-telephone calls. “’Allo! ’Allo!” he would say, taking down the
-receiver. Along the wall was a wooden bench on which sat two weary
-poilus, their heads nodding under their steel helmets. On the floor, a
-wounded soldier lay on a stretcher. Outside I could hear the firing of
-the guns, the trampling of horses, the straining and groaning of the
-heavy munition trucks pulling up the grade.
-
-I was very tired, in fact I had reached the stage of premonitions. I
-felt that luck had been with me just as long as might be expected and
-in the fagged, depressed condition of my brain I felt quite certain
-that my next time out would be my last. I have seen others pass
-through the same stage when they have been worn out. I suppose Alan
-Seeger must have felt like that when he wrote his wonderful poem “I
-have a rendezvous with Death.”
-
-As I sat there waiting for my turn to go out and expecting a call each
-time the telephone rang, I got to thinking of my early impressions
-upon reaching France. It seemed a long time since I had landed in
-France. Then I got to thinking of my later impressions after coming to
-the Front. To keep my mind from dwelling on what was happening
-outside, where I must soon go, I took some scraps of paper and wrote a
-brief summary of my impressions, supposing that it might be the last
-words I would write. I had just finished writing when the telephone
-rang. The officer took down the receiver, “’Allo! ’Allo! San Fein!”
-The officer turned to me. It was my turn out. I put the scraps of
-paper in my pocket, slipped into my heavy coat, put on my steel
-helmet, shook hands with the officer and went out.
-
-It was a short run but a bad one, shells were arriving and shells were
-departing. I found an Abri had been squarely hit and badly torn up. I
-got four wounded, who were in very bad condition. I drove back and got
-through. My premonitions were not realized. It was sunrise when I
-drove away from the hospital and my work for the night was over.
-Coming down the road I met Holt. He told me he was having trouble with
-his car and he asked me to wait while he made some repair. I drew up
-alongside the road, put my head down on the steering wheel and went to
-sleep. A few minutes later Holt woke me up and we drove on together. A
-short while later, over hot coffee, I confessed to Holt the
-premonitions I had the night before. And then he confessed that he had
-had them, too. Then I read to him what I had written:
-
-“I gained my first impression of France while sailing up the broad
-Gironde River, flanked by its stately trees, its green and rolling
-fields, its Catholic spires, its old châteaux and ancient monasteries.
-I came on to Paris. I saw and admired that magnificent city which
-stoically smiles through sorrow. I stood at the tomb of Napoleon but I
-did not shed a tear; I sat in Nôtre Dame Cathedral on a Sabbath
-afternoon, and there I saw women with faces sad but brave, kneeling in
-prayer; I heard the organ’s sacred notes; perhaps I shed a tear, why
-should I say? I sat at one of the many crowded tables in front of the
-famous Café de la Paix and there I watched the Congress of the Armies
-of the Allied Nations, sipping drinks, smoking cigarettes, passing the
-time of day. I drove up the sloping, tree lined Champs Elysées at
-sunset and through the Arch of Triumph. At its crest I saw the tinted
-sky and clouds and tops of trees and as I drove on through the
-peaceful groves of the Bois du Boulogne by moonlight I thought that
-though I loved my native land I would love to live in France.
-
-“Then I came on out to the battle front. I passed through desolate
-villages, past desecrated cathedrals; I saw deserted homes and shell
-wrecked towns. I heard the thunder and roar of many guns, I heard the
-crash of avion bombs, I heard the shriek, the whistle, the moan of
-shells. I saw the horror and havoc that these things wrought, the
-wounded, the dying, the countless dead. But through all the terrors of
-the days and nights I saw the noble Nation, fatigued, yet with
-Christlike resignation suffering and bleeding so that others might
-live to enjoy an honorable repose. And I thought that the prayer of
-this noble Nation must be the prayer of Christ: ‘O Lord, forgive them,
-for they know not what they do!’ And as I saw these things I thought
-that though I loved my Country, the land of Chance, though I loved my
-own Flag, I should be willing to die for France, but it has not thus
-far been willed and I am glad. I am glad to go on living and loving
-France. She is our kin. Her blood is on our soil, our blood on hers.
-She is our sister country.
-
-“Vive l’Amérique! Vive la France!”
-
-
-
-
-XXI
-
-Afterthoughts
-
-
-So now my story is told and as I close the pages of the book I pause
-to think and wonder if ever again I shall see France. I wonder if
-again I shall walk along the quays of the River Seine or up the
-sloping tree-lined Champs Elysées, or wander with friends around to
-the Café de la Paix, or if again I shall pass through the desolate
-villages at the front and hear the shrieking shells, the aeroplanes
-overhead singing in the night “Guerre, guerre, guerre,” their
-monotonous song of death. I wonder if again I shall see those noble,
-weary people of our Sister Country fighting bravely against the Iron
-Hand; whether I shall go back to see our own flag being carried on to
-final victory; and rejoice that America at last has ridden into the
-field full armed, the Savior of France, as was once the Maid of
-Orleans.
-
-I wonder if I shall resist or follow that invisible finger beckoning
-to me――whether I shall listen to that voice whispering and saying to
-me, “Come back”?
-
-I wonder if again I shall see the towers of Rheims Cathedral or stand
-upon the hill beside the resting place of Norton?
-
-I wonder if again some day I shall walk into the peaceful town of
-Aillianville and sit down by the crackling fire and visit my friend
-Tourgant, the boar hunter, and his wife; whether I shall some evening
-step in the “Cheval Blanc” and to Madame Julie and the patron, say, as
-I have said before: “Bon soir, Madame, bon soir, Monsieur”; whether
-sometime I shall sit with Marie and her husband, who will wear the
-Croix de Guerre upon his breast, and with them talk about the war. I
-wonder if I shall again go in the “Lion d’Or,” and, in happy memory,
-hear the music as I did before, and if perhaps I shall see again my
-friends of Section One in France?
-
-I wonder if I shall answer that voice which whispers to me as I walk
-along the crowded streets, which whispers as I lie awake at night,
-which whispers in my sleep and says to me――“Come back.”
-
-
-FINIS
-
-
- Footnotes:
-
- [1] Extrait de l’Ordre No. 238 du 19 Septembre, 1917
- Portant Citation d l’Ordre de la Division
- 69ᵉ Division d’Infanterie
- Etat-Major-1ᵉʳ Bureau
-
- Le Général Monroe, Commandant le 69ᵉ Division d’Infanterie,
- cite à l’Ordre de la Division, les militaires dont les noms
- suivent; RICE, Philip S., Conducteur à la Section Sanitaire
- Americaine, 1 (20 Escad. T. E. M.):
-
- A toujours donné l’exemple du plus grand courage et de
- devouement dans les circonstances les plus penibles lors des
- evacuations des blessés pendant les attaques d’Aout et
- Septembre, 1917, devant VERDUN.
- Le Général Commandant la 69ᵉ A. T.
- Signe: Monroe.
- Extrait certifie conformé
- A. G. le 29 Septembre 1917
- Le Chepd Etat-Major.
- EDMOND CHAPILLIN,
- 69ᵉ Division D’Infanterie
- Etat-Major.
-
-
- [2] Stuart Walcott, Princeton 1917, son of Secretary Walcott
- of the Smithsonian Institution. The Princeton University
- Press has published his letters, under the title “Above the
- French Lines.” Walcott was killed in combat, December, 1917.
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Note:
-
-Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like
-this_. Footnotes were renumbered sequentially and were moved to the
-end of the book. Dialect, obsolete words, misspellings, and
-typographical mistakes were left unchanged.
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An American Crusader at Verdun, by
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-Title: An American Crusader at Verdun
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-Author: Philip Sidney Rice
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-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h1 class="h1head">An American Crusader at Verdun</h1>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px">
- <img src="images/i_004.jpg"
- width="499" height="603"
- alt="Illustration: Philip Sidney Rice"
- />
- <p class="caption">Philip Sidney Rice</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="h1head no-break">An American Crusader at
-Verdun</h2>
-
-<p class="center">By</p>
-
-<h2 class="h2head no-break">Philip Sidney Rice</h2>
-
-<p class="p4 center">Published by the Author,<br />
-at Princeton, N. J.<br />
-1918</p>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p class="p4 center">Copyright, 1918,<br />
-<span class="sc">By Philip Sidney Rice</span></p>
-
-<hr class="short" />
-
-<p class="center">Published October, 1918</p>
-<hr class="short" />
-
-<p class="center">Printed in the United States of America</p>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<h3 class="p4 h3head">Foreword</h3>
-
-<p class="p2">I hesitate to write of my experiences because so
-many books have been written about the war, and
-the story of the ambulancier has been told before.</p>
-
-<p>Many young Americans in sympathy with the
-Allied cause, and particularly the cause of France,
-and many Americans anxious to uphold the honor
-of their own country, when others were holding
-back the flag, went over as “crusaders” in advance
-of the American Army. Many had gone over before
-I went; some have come back and told their
-story and told it well&mdash;and so, although I went as
-a “crusader,” I am not the first to tell the story.</p>
-
-<p>But if my story interests a few of my friends and
-kin I shall be satisfied with the telling of it.</p>
-
-<p class="r1"><span class="sc">Philip Sidney Rice.</span></p>
-
-<p class="unindent"><span class="sc">Rhodes Tavern</span>,<br />
-Harvey’s Lake, Pa.</p>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h3 class="p4 h3head">Introduction</h3>
-
-<p class="p2">A citation in general orders, by the Commanding
-General of the 69th Division of Infantry of the
-French Army, which declares that Driver Philip S.
-Rice “has always set an example of the greatest
-courage and devotion in the most trying circumstances
-during the evacuation of wounded in the
-attacks of August and September, 1917, before
-Verdun,”<span class="lock"><a name="fnanchor_1" id="fnanchor_1"></a><a href="#footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></span>
-ought to be sufficient introduction in
-itself to this story of an American Ambulance
-Driver who bore himself valiantly in those days of
-the great tragedy at Verdun. And yet for the
-story itself, and for the man who has written it,
-something can be said by one of his friends in appreciation
-of both the story and the man.</p>
-
-<p>The literature that is coming out, and which will
-come out, of the great war, will never cease as long
-as history shall recite the efforts of the German
-Spoiler to gain the mastery of the world, and fill
-the world with hate and hunger. Therefore, every
-bit of evidence that shall touch even so lightly on
-every phase of the conditions, and reveal even in the
-slightest sense a picture of what happened, will
-have its value.</p>
-
-<p>Of Mr. Rice, I can say that as a youngster the
-spirit of adventure was strong in him. He tried
-his best to break into the War with Spain in 1898,
-but his weight and heart action compelled his rejection
-by the surgeons. He later, however, served
-with credit under my command, as an enlisted man,
-and as an officer of the Ninth Infantry, National
-Guard of Pennsylvania.</p>
-
-<p>When the United States entered the conflict on
-the side of the Entente Allies in the present war,
-Mr. Rice, knowing that he could not gain a place in
-the fighting forces, volunteered for service in the
-American Ambulance Corps in France. Herein
-is written the story of that service simply told, without
-vainglory or boasting. It is a story of a soldier’s
-work&mdash;for it was as a soldier he served.</p>
-
-<p>Simply told, yes; but well told. For instance, the
-recital of the story of that evening of July 13, in
-the after dusk, when the guns had silenced forever
-the voice of his comrade, Frederick Norton, when
-they laid him to rest on the side of the hill in view
-of the enemy, and the towers of the desecrated
-Cathedral of Rheims. And that other time, when
-in front of Verdun, the “slaughter house of the
-world,” when nerve-racked he had stopped his car
-on the road, in the midst of the shells and gas clouds,
-when he said to himself: “If I do go and am hit, the
-agony will be over in a few minutes, but, if I turn
-back, the agony will be with me all the rest of my
-life”&mdash;so he put on his gas mask and drove on.</p>
-
-<p>The “Cross of War” is not given by France for
-any but deserving action. The men of France who
-commended and recommended Phil Rice for the
-distinguished honor conferred upon him knew that
-in every day of his service he deserved what the
-French Government, through General Monroe,
-Commanding the 69th Division of Infantry, gave
-to him&mdash;the Croix de Guerre.</p>
-
-<p>It is something to have been a part of it, to have
-visioned with your own eyes the scenes and the
-places that now lie waste upon the bosom of fair
-France; to have witnessed the horrors of the deadly
-gigantic monster War as it is now being conducted
-“Over There.” To have heard singing in your ears
-the whirr of the avions in the night air&mdash;to have seen
-with your own eyes the tragic diorama of the hateful
-and cruel side of war&mdash;and it is something for
-your children’s children in the years that are yet
-to come to tell that in the Great War their forebear
-bore an honorable part.</p>
-
-<p class="r3"><span class="sc">C. B. Dougherty</span>,</p>
-<p class="pneg r1">Major General National Guard of</p>
-<p class="pneg r2">Pennsylvania, Retired</p>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<h3 class="p4 h3head">Contents</h3>
-
-<table summary="">
-<colgroup>
- <col span="1" style="width: 15em;" />
- <col span="1" style="width: 5em;" />
-</colgroup>
-
-<tr><td class="right smaller" colspan="2">PAGE</td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="One">I</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">The Voyage</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_1">1</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Two">II</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">“Over There” at Last!</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_2">11</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Three">III</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">In the Champagne Region</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_3">15</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Four">IV</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Qualifying as a Driver</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_4">18</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Five">V</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">“Car <abbr title="Number">No.</abbr> 13”</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_5">21</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Six">VI</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">The “Crusader”</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_6">24</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Seven">VII</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">“Raising Hell Down at Epernay”</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_7">29</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Eight">VIII</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Norton’s Last Ride</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_8">35</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Nine">IX</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Bastille Day</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_9">40</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Ten">X</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Here Kultur Passed</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_10">45</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Eleven">XI</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Verdun</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_11">49</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Twelve">XII</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Awaiting the Big Attack</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_12">54</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Thirteen">XIII</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Under Fire in an Ambulance</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_13">56</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Fourteen">XIV</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">The Big Shells Come Over</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_14">63</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Fifteen">XV</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Under the Shell Shower</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_15">68</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Sixteen">XVI</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Aftermath of Battle </td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_16">72</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Seventeen">XVII</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">In the Valley of the Shadow</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_17">76</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Eighteen">XVIII</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">In Paris</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_18">81</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Nineteen">XIX</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Aillianville</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_19">90</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Twenty">XX</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Vive l’Amérique! Vive la France!</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_20">98</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="center" colspan="2"><abbr title="Twenty-One">XXI</abbr></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="left">Afterthoughts</td>
- <td class="right"><a href="#Chap_21">102</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_1" id="Chap_1"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head">An American Crusader at Verdun</h3>
-
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="One">I</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">The Voyage</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">It was a glorious afternoon in Spring, to be exact,
-May 19, 1917, at about three bells, that the
-French liner <span class="title">Chicago</span> moved out of her dock and
-started down the North river on the voyage to
-France, crowded for the most part with volunteers,
-entering various branches of service in the World
-War. There were doctors, camion drivers, aviators,
-ambulanciers&mdash;also a few civilians, half a
-dozen members of the Comédie Française returning
-to their native land and stage; and more than likely
-there were one or two spies. It was the largest
-crowd of “Crusaders” that had embarked for
-France since the war began.</p>
-
-<p>The deck was crowded, too, with relatives and
-friends of those who were sailing; there was waving
-of flags, cheering and shedding of tears, and it was
-my observation that those who were being left behind
-took the departure harder than those who were
-leaving. But I suppose that is true when one starts
-on any long journey and I suppose it is especially
-true when one starts on the last long journey to a
-better world.</p>
-
-<p>Those of us on the boat were not bound for a
-better world, we were just bound by going to help
-make the world a little better if we could. But
-some whom I met on the voyage have since passed
-on to a better world.</p>
-
-<p>I am sure that most of the men on board were
-imbued with a spirit of seriousness. I was serious
-about the journey myself. Practically since the war
-began, I had been moved with a desire to get into it.
-I resented the invasion of Belgium, as have all red-blooded
-people, no matter what their nationality. I
-resented the murder of Edith Cavell; I resented
-the sinking of the Lusitania; I resented the atrocities
-committed, not against the people of any race
-in particular, but against fellow human beings; I
-resented the loud clamorings of white-blooded pacifists
-and Prussian propagandists who would have
-kept us out of war at any price, even at the price
-of honor. When I finally reached the decision to
-take a small part in the war and acted upon that
-decision by enlisting as a volunteer ambulance driver,
-I felt touched with a spirit of rest.</p>
-
-<p>I did not know a single soul aboard when the
-liner cast off and backed out into the river. I knew
-quite a few before we reached Bordeaux. Shipboard
-is the easiest place in the world to make acquaintances,
-and being alone I drifted about, perhaps,
-more than if I had gone on board with a
-crowd of my own friends.</p>
-
-<p>That morning in the Waldorf I had been told
-by Fred Parrish that a young fellow by the name
-of Meeker was going over for aviation and I had
-been told to look him up. A little later that same
-morning, while walking down Fifth avenue, bound
-for a bookstore to purchase a French dictionary and
-a volume of Bernard Shaw’s plays (I already had
-a Testament), I ran into my literary friend, Mr.
-George Henry Payne. It seemed perfectly natural
-to run into George on Fifth avenue&mdash;he seemed
-perfectly at home there. George is cosmopolitan&mdash;he
-is at home anywhere. He had sometimes been
-in my “Little Red House on the Hill,” my summer
-home in Dallas, Pennsylvania. “Darkest Dallas,”
-George called it.</p>
-
-<p>This meeting with George on Fifth avenue has a
-bearing on my trip across. He informed me that
-a friend of his, a Miss Katherine G&mdash;&mdash;, was sailing
-on the same boat. George told me to introduce myself
-to her and said he would communicate with her
-and vouch for the meeting. There was no time for
-a full description. George merely informed me that
-she was charming, though intellectual&mdash;that she had
-translated the works of Brandes into English and
-done a lot of heavy stuff like that. I confess I was
-a little terrified at the prospect of meeting Miss
-Katherine G&mdash;&mdash;.</p>
-
-<p>The boat was soon headed down the river and the
-crowd of friends and relatives on the dock faded
-from view, still waving farewell. Before we passed
-the Statue of Liberty I ran into Meeker&mdash;a fine,
-wholesome looking young chap&mdash;dressed in a light
-spring suit&mdash;a flower in his buttonhole. I saw a lot
-of Meeker before we reached the other side. He
-had spirit, and speaking of going as a “Crusader,”
-he remarked: “I would rather be a ‘went’ than a
-’sent.’” At dinner I met a number of other fellows,
-among them a young aviator just out of Princeton.
-His name was Walcott.<span class="lock"><a name="fnanchor_2" id="fnanchor_2"></a><a href="#footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>I only kept a diary for a few days. I found that
-everyone was keeping a diary. One day on deck I
-heard a man reading a page of his to an acquaintance
-and I heard him remark with a show of pride
-that the other fellows in his stateroom were keeping
-their diaries by copying from his. I heard him
-read: “Arose at seven o’clock, took a bath at seven-fifteen;
-had breakfast at eight, on deck at eight-thirty,
-sea is choppy.” And I thought to myself as
-I moved about the deck: “What an inspiring document
-to leave to one’s descendants.” So after
-about four pages of the brief one that I kept I
-find the following:</p>
-
-<p>“I wonder what the intellectual Miss G&mdash;&mdash; looks
-like&mdash;whether she is prematurely old, anaemic or
-possibly has a tuft of hair on her chin. I have
-never read Brandes but he sounds heavy. I called
-on Miss G&mdash;&mdash; last evening after dinner. Ports
-were masked&mdash;curtains drawn, the decks were black
-except for spots of fire indicating a cigarette here
-and there. But in the darkness there was singing,
-and it was good, too. The submarines have not
-ears&mdash;only one eye like the witches in ‘Macbeth.’ I
-decided to call on Miss G&mdash;&mdash; and I approached her
-stateroom thinking of Brandes, of high-brow feminine
-youth prematurely blighted, of a tuft of hair
-and anaemia. The stateroom door was open and
-there were lights. The room was littered with roses
-and clothes and things. There was a feminine,
-human touch to that stateroom, but Miss G&mdash;&mdash;
-was not within. Perhaps she was on the deck somewhere
-among those cigarettes glowing like fireflies
-in the dark. I hastily tossed my card upon her pillow
-and returned to the deck. Miss G&mdash;&mdash; has not
-returned my call&mdash;I have not seen her to my
-knowledge.”</p>
-
-<p>Later that first evening on board I went up into
-the smoking room and a cloud of blue smoke hung
-low over the occupants who crowded the room.
-They did not look like members of a peace commission&mdash;some
-were dressed in khaki, some wore yellow
-driving coats, one wore the uniform of the
-American Ambulance. Over at a corner table three
-French officers, in their light blue uniforms, were
-seated with ladies who I afterward learned were
-their wives. One of the officers wore the Croix de
-Guerre, which filled me with admiration and envy.
-At another table was a young French girl surrounded
-by admiring men. She was vivacious,
-possessed of a high color and beautiful teeth&mdash;even
-if she did smoke cigarettes. Her friends called her
-“Andree.” At another table a lively card game
-was going on&mdash;later I got to know the participants&mdash;Harris,
-Lambert, Bixby, Branch, Foltz and
-others.</p>
-
-<p>Down in the music room it was crowded, too.
-Some one was playing the piano, and playing well.
-Altogether it was a likely looking crowd that I
-found on the boat.</p>
-
-<p>Among my early acquaintances was a promising
-young poet who I was told had already begun to
-fulfil his promise. He was just out of Harvard and
-lived at South Orange, New Jersey. We discovered
-that we had some things in common&mdash;we both
-liked cigarettes and disliked white-corpuscled pacifists.
-We were photographed together by a friend.
-I have always been willing to have my photograph
-taken with a successful poet, providing he wore
-good clothes and did not wear long hair. I was glad
-to be photographed with Bob Hillyer. He wore a
-blue serge suit, a light blue necktie and had rather
-sad eyes, though I thought he was too young to
-have suffered much. The well-to-do never suffer
-much at Harvard. He had a slight cold and I prescribed
-for him out of a medicine chest which had
-been presented to me before sailing. The next day
-he told me he felt much better. I did not tell him
-that I discovered too late that I had given him the
-wrong medicine.</p>
-
-<p>I met another young fellow who was not a poet.
-He introduced himself to me and said he had met
-me before somewhere. I could not recall the incident,
-though his name was familiar. On better acquaintance
-I got to call him “Bridgey” for short.
-He suggested that we take a walk around the deck,
-which was in darkness except for the cigarettes
-glowing here and there. “Bridgey” fell over a coil
-of rope before we had covered the starboard side,
-after which he inquired the number of his stateroom
-and retired for the night. The next morning he
-came to me and confided that he was rooming in a
-cabin with a begoggled person of strong religious
-propensities who had taken him to task for his levity
-of the night before. I inquired what form his levity
-had taken, and he confessed “I tried to feed grapes
-to him when he wanted to go to sleep and then accidentally
-smashed an electric light globe while
-taking off my shoe.” I tried to comfort him with
-the thought that religion was not merely a matter
-of goggles.</p>
-
-<p>There were two fellows on the boat whom I was
-destined to know intimately later on after reaching
-the front. They were from Providence, Rhode
-Island. One was tall and slender and had red hair.
-His name I learned was Harwood B. Day. He
-will always be known affectionately to me as “Red”
-Day. The other was tall and slender and had dishevelled
-hair from constant reading. His name I
-learned was Frank Farnham. To me he will always
-be just “Farney.” Day was returning to the service
-after a visit in the States.</p>
-
-<p>On a later page in my brief diary, from which I
-have already quoted, I find the following:</p>
-
-<p>“Sapristi! I have just met Miss Katherine
-G&mdash;&mdash;. She may be intellectual but she certainly
-is charming. She may have translated Brandes
-into English and done other heavy stuff like that,
-but she is not prematurely old. She is not anaemic
-and there is not a tuft of hair on her chin. She is
-young, she has black hair and black eyes and a kindly
-smile like a practical Christian. She is feminine.
-Her stateroom told the story&mdash;littered with flowers,
-clothes and things. If the boat is hit I shall certainly
-be one of several who will offer her a life
-belt.” There my diary ended.</p>
-
-<p>The voyage was calm enough and without many
-exciting incidents. One of the passengers died. He
-was very old and feeble when he came on board,
-bound for his home I believe, in Greece. He was
-buried at sea early one morning before those who
-had gone to bed had risen.</p>
-
-<p>Many passengers slept on deck while passing
-through the war zone. The ship’s concert took place
-a couple of nights before we landed. Many passengers
-stayed on deck during the ship’s concert. Miss
-G&mdash;&mdash; and the two aviators, Meeker and Walker,
-took part in a one-act play. I wrote the play originally
-but Miss G&mdash;&mdash; rewrote it because she said
-it was too “high-brow,” which convinced me that
-she was wonderfully human though highly intellectual.</p>
-
-<p>Reaching France, we “crusaders” who had become
-intimate on the long voyage, which was all too
-short, went our various ways&mdash;some to aviation
-fields&mdash;some to camion camps&mdash;some to the American
-Field Headquarters at 21 Rue Reynouard,
-Paris, France. Some I have seen since&mdash;some I
-will never see again.</p>
-
-<p>Coming out of an Eleventh Century Cathedral
-in Bordeaux with a couple of friends, I saw “Andree”
-pass by in an open carriage. She was smiling
-happily, showing her white teeth when she
-turned and waved to us as the carriage disappeared
-around the corner.</p>
-
-<p>I last saw Meeker and Walcott in front of the
-Café de la Paix in Paris. I wished them luck in
-their undertakings for the cause. Meeker and
-Walcott, aviators, have since fallen on the field and
-I am sure the world is bound to be just a little better
-for the inspiring sacrifice they have made.</p>
-
-<p>In Paris I met Frederick Norton, of Goshen,
-New York.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_2" id="Chap_2"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Two">II</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">“Over There” at Last!</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Friday, the twenty-second day of June, I arose
-upon a birthday anniversary. I had no intention
-of observing it, but I felt in a vaguely definite way
-that something interesting was to happen before
-the day was over; and this feeling was not long in
-growing from the vague to the definite.</p>
-
-<p>From the time of reaching Paris I was busily
-engaged in various ways at the headquarters of the
-American Field Service while impatiently waiting
-my turn to go to the front. I was more than impatient&mdash;at
-times I was fretful. I even believe
-that upon cross-examination the heads of the service
-would admit that I was absolutely annoying.
-I supposed that I would be assigned to a new ambulance
-section soon to be organized, but on this day
-I have mentioned, I was informed that I was to
-fill a vacancy in Section Number One, the oldest
-American Field Section serving with the French
-army. I was in luck. Section One had been at the
-Battle of the Marne, it had served in Belgium&mdash;it
-had been at Verdun in 1916 and had gained a glorious
-record for itself at various places along the
-Western Front. I was to be prepared to leave
-Paris on Sunday morning, and to my delight I
-learned that Frederick Norton was also to join
-the same Section.</p>
-
-<p>While working together in the Paris headquarters
-we discovered that we had many mutual friends
-and this naturally put us on a friendly footing from
-the beginning. We found that our ideas coincided
-about many things and about people. I thought
-Norton had some pretty good ideas and was an excellent
-judge of people. Sometimes when we were
-talking together he would say about someone:
-“How do you size him up?” And I would tell him.
-Usually our ideas coincided. Norton had been a
-traveller&mdash;he had been to Alaska&mdash;he had been
-North with Peary&mdash;he had been to Japan&mdash;he already
-knew something of France&mdash;he had been a
-hunter&mdash;he had a pilot’s license to drive an aeroplane&mdash;he
-had done some toboganning and skiing in
-Switzerland, which are not sports for the timid.
-These things I learned from him slowly, for he was
-extremely modest and not given to talking about
-his exploits. I was glad when I found that we were
-to start for the battle front together, and he was
-kind enough to say that he was glad, too.</p>
-
-<p>Saturday night and a short “Good-night” to
-Paris. A short “Good-night” because cafés close
-at nine o’clock, and besides I must be up early the
-following morning. In company with my delightful
-pagan friend “Bridgey,” I went around to a
-little quiet out of the way café, which was hardly
-known to Americans. The little café was kept by
-an elderly lady whose husband had been killed in
-the war and by her daughter whose husband had
-also been killed in the war. This mother and daughter
-were excellent cooks, but their place was plain
-and comfortable. There was sawdust on the floor.
-Sitting in the little back dining room we could see
-into the kitchen and watch the meal being prepared.
-Across the street in the “Chinese Umbrella” there
-was more ostentation, style and atmosphere. The
-“Chinese Umbrella” was patronized mostly by
-Americans and the atmosphere was not Parisian.</p>
-
-<p>“Bridgey” had invited me there for a quiet, exclusive
-farewell supper, and as we sat in the back
-room of the café he regaled me with an account of
-how he had tried for aviation the day before. He
-was nearsighted and wore spectacles, without which
-he could scarcely see across the room. From a
-friend he had procured a copy of the alphabet eye
-test and had tried to commit it to memory; he reported
-for examination with spectacles in his
-pocket. He missed on the third letter, and being
-brusquely informed that he had failed, “Bridgey,”
-who certainly had a sense of humor, smilingly adjusted
-his spectacles and bade adieu to the inspecting
-officer.</p>
-
-<p>Supper finished, I said “Au ’voir” to Madame
-and her daughter, the two war widows, and then
-went off to bed.</p>
-
-<p>“Bridgey” was on hand next morning to see us
-start for the front. A few other acquaintances
-were at the station, too. I have not seen “Bridgey”
-since but I heard that he was at Verdun during the
-big offensive.</p>
-
-<p>Norton and I boarded the twelve o’clock train
-bound for the front. The train was crowded with
-French officers, grey haired Generals, Colonels, officers
-of all ranks and of various branches of the
-service. There were very few civilians and not half
-a dozen women. Twelve o’clock, and Paris faded
-behind us as we started for the battle front.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_3" id="Chap_3"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Three">III</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">In the Champagne Region</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">We left the train at Epernay, an important city
-some twenty miles back from the battle lines, but
-subject to air raids, as I observed from demolished
-and dilapidated buildings in various parts of the
-town, and as I was to learn from personal experience
-before many days had passed.</p>
-
-<p>Here we were met by a member of Section One, a
-young fellow by the name of Stout, well named, of
-stocky build and robust appetite. Norton and I
-had eaten lightly and suggested that we repair to a
-café for luncheon before proceeding on to where
-Section One had its cantonment near the front.
-Stout said he would join us for company’s sake,
-but that he had finished dinner just a short while
-before. As we ate and talked a large plate of pastry
-was placed upon the table and Stout was prevailed
-upon to take one, and as we talked Stout
-emptied the plate and we called for more which we
-divided with Stout. After luncheon I caught Norton’s
-ear and said to him: “You heard Stout say
-he had his Sunday dinner?”</p>
-
-<p>“Yes.”</p>
-
-<p>“You noticed the vanishing plate of sweets?”</p>
-
-<p>“Yes.”</p>
-
-<p>“Well, it looks to me,” I said, “as if Section One
-is starving.”</p>
-
-<p>That was before we knew Stout of robust appetite.
-But Stout had plenty of vim and vigor and
-was untiring, and later won the Croix de Guerre
-at Verdun. Stout and I quarrelled at Verdun, after
-which I had a genuine affection for him.</p>
-
-<p>We clambered into a motor truck, Stout driving,
-and were on the second stage of our journey to the
-front. We reached the town of Louvois about six
-o’clock. Here Section One had its cantonment.
-Louvois is a picturesque village, far enough back
-from the lines not to be entirely deserted by its
-civilian population, mostly simple people living in
-simple homes just as their forebears had lived in
-the same homes a hundred years and more before.
-Here we began to breathe the atmosphere of the
-war&mdash;here, night and day, we saw the movement of
-the troops to and from the front&mdash;we saw the procession
-of camions carrying munitions and supplies&mdash;large
-cannons being drawn by many horses&mdash;the
-little machine guns&mdash;sometimes a fleet of armored
-cars equipped with anti-aircraft guns. Overhead
-we saw the large observation balloons and heard the
-whirr of aeroplanes. In the distance we could hear
-the firing at the front.</p>
-
-<p>Supper was being served underneath a shed, and
-it was a good supper, too. Section One was not
-starving. We were cordially received by the members
-of the Section. “Red” Day and “Farney”
-were in the gathering. “Red” had served with the
-Section in Belgium. After supper we strolled
-along the street and listened while Purdy, a bright
-young fellow, told us all about the war. Purdy
-was six feet tall and as I later observed every inch
-a soldier.</p>
-
-<p>That night we were billeted in the second story
-of a dilapidated barnlike building from which the
-windows were all gone, and lying on my cot I could
-see the stars through the roof. That night a rat
-ran across my face. At last I was getting into
-the war.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_4" id="Chap_4"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Four">IV</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Qualifying as a Driver</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">The following morning Norton and I, not having
-been assigned to cars, were set to work changing
-a tire. Down on our hands and knees we began to
-struggle&mdash;a few of the men were standing about.
-Norton laughed softly and whispered to me:</p>
-
-<p>“Have you ever changed a tire before?”</p>
-
-<p>“No,” I said; “have you?”</p>
-
-<p>“No,” chuckled Norton, but we quickly finished
-the job and felt very proud of our first effort.</p>
-
-<p>A little later I was taken out for a trial ride to
-prove whether or not I could really drive a Ford
-car. William Pearl, our volunteer mechanician,
-went with me on the run. Pearl had been a Rhodes
-scholar and had joined the Section some time before.
-A couple of months after that trial drive he
-and I were destined to have a thrilling and trying
-experience, in which he was the principal actor.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px">
- <img src="images/i_033.jpg"
- width="493" height="267"
- alt="Illustration: Cars Waiting for a Run"
- />
- <p class="caption">Cars Waiting for a Run</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The trial ride took us along a road for about
-seven miles, where we came to the brow of a hill.
-Here we stopped the car and walked out into an
-open field and there I obtained my first glimpse of
-the war, spread out before us in a panorama. In
-
-the distance, to the left, I could see the city of
-Rheims, the towers of its desecrated cathedral looming
-up distinctly. I could see the shells falling and
-bursting in the city. Pearl informed me, as we stood
-there, that an average of two thousand shells a
-day were being dropped on the city. In front of
-us I could see the hills laid barren by shell fire and
-scarred by the lines of trenches. Overhead a German
-aeroplane had crossed the French lines&mdash;the
-anti-aircraft guns had opened fire&mdash;little puffs of
-cloudlike smoke appeared in the sky underneath the
-plane as it rose to higher altitudes. French planes
-arose in pursuit and finally the German plane disappeared
-from sight over its own lines. Directly
-overhead a bird was singing in a tree just as cheerfully
-as if there was no such thing as trouble in the
-world. Looking back in the opposite direction I
-could see women and young girls working in the
-vineyards.</p>
-
-<p>As we started to leave the spot Pearl pointed to
-a town nearby on our left.</p>
-
-<p>“That is the town of Ludes,” he said. “Notice
-where it is, because you will have to go there when
-on duty.”</p>
-
-<p>I looked in the direction that he pointed, little
-realizing that the town of Ludes would be forever
-associated in my mind with the most tragic incident
-of my service in France.</p>
-
-<p>Then we turned and drove back to Louvois.
-That was the full extent of my training for front
-line work. I was informed that I had qualified as
-an ambulance driver.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_5" id="Chap_5"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Five">V</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">“Car <abbr title="Number">No.</abbr> 13”</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Having been duly declared a qualified driver, I
-was assigned to a car which happened to be number
-13, but as I am not particularly superstitious this
-did not make me nervous.</p>
-
-<p>Then I was sent to post for duty out at the town
-of Ludes. Here we had our headquarters in a little
-Swiss chalet hidden behind a clump of trees; though
-within sight and sound of the war, it was peaceful
-enough, at least for those on war duty. Everything
-is comparative. Before many days had passed I
-was to see that peaceful little chalet stained with
-blood. The place was equipped with a telephone
-bell, which would signal when a car was needed at
-a front line post. Those on duty here answered the
-calls in rotation.</p>
-
-<p>About noon of my first day on duty a call came
-in for two cars. One of the cars was to carry
-wounded men back to the town of Epernay, the
-other car was to go to the extreme front line post.
-One of the calls was for Joe Patterson of Pittsburgh,
-the other call was for me. Out of politeness
-to a new man “Pat” gave me the choice of runs.</p>
-
-<p>It seemed to be much easier to get right into the
-serious work than to have the suspense of waiting,
-so I chose the run to the front line post. I started
-off over the hills, through the ancient town of Verzeney,
-famous for its wines&mdash;through the winding
-streets, turning sharply at a corner&mdash;down a long
-steep hill hidden from view of the enemy by camouflage&mdash;past
-what was known as the Esperance farm
-till finally I reached the post. Here I stopped my
-car and waited. Here there was a canal, the waters
-of which had been let out, and into the canal banks
-had been built little dug-outs. In the one where I
-was to wait and sleep until needed were two rough
-cots, a shelf on which there were some rather dirty
-eating utensils and a loaf of dry bread.</p>
-
-<p>During the afternoon there was intermittent firing
-but no great activity on either side of the lines.
-Occasionally an aeroplane would fly overhead.
-Once during the afternoon a German plane flew
-over in an effort to attack an observation balloon,
-but was successfully driven off by the French.</p>
-
-<p>The afternoon passed quickly enough without
-having my services called for and at supper time
-I had my first meal of trench fare with French
-poilus for company, a cup of hot soup, a chunk of
-meat, a slice of bread and a cup of coffee. The cook
-who served us was a big fellow with a black beard.
-He was killed a short time after and his body lay
-all day in a nearby dug-out.</p>
-
-<p>After supper I clambered over the canal bank
-and walked along the empty canal bed observing
-the marks of German shells. Then there was a sudden
-volley of shots from a French battery near at
-hand, the guns of which were so carefully concealed
-that I had not observed it. I quickly clambered
-back over the “safe” side of the canal bank and
-waited.</p>
-
-<p>I began to feel restless and to wonder when I
-would be called to get out into the battle of the
-night.</p>
-
-<p>In the meantime the firing had increased on both
-sides of the lines.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_6" id="Chap_6"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Six">VI</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">The “Crusader”</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">It was some time after nine o’clock and growing
-dark when a French soldier came up and handed
-me a slip of paper bearing a message which had
-just come over the telephone. The message conveyed
-instructions for me to drive down the road
-a couple of miles to a front line dressing station,
-where I would find wounded who had just been
-carried in. I was informed that the call was urgent.
-Though I am not fearless by any means, I
-did not feel frightened as I walked out to my car
-and started the engine; but I noticed that my heart
-was beating rapidly.</p>
-
-<p>A few French soldiers waved to me and called
-“Au ’voir” as I got in the seat and was off down
-the road, first to the left, then to the right, then
-straight ahead as fast as I dared drive. The road
-took me directly in front of the French batteries,
-and in the growing darkness the flashes of fire from
-the guns and the concussion in my face made it
-seem as if they were firing directly at me, not over
-me. I drove on till I reached the post to which I
-had been sent, then backed up my ambulance around
-near the entrance to the dug-out and stopped. An
-officer stepped up and shook hands with me and in
-English said: “The American drives fast.”</p>
-
-<p>He explained to me that the wounded were being
-cared for and would soon be ready for the journey.
-A small group of silent stretcher bearers were
-standing near the entrance to the dug-out. The
-firing increased in intensity&mdash;the battle of the night
-was on. The officer remarked to me: “The Germans
-are very angry.” I handed the officer a cigarette
-and lighted one myself. I have found that
-tobacco is a great solace to the nerves when under
-fire. We continued our broken conversation. “Do
-you come from New York?” he asked.</p>
-
-<p>“Near New York,” I replied. Every place east
-of Chicago is near New York when you are over
-three thousand miles away.</p>
-
-<p>“Do you like champagne?” he inquired. It was
-not an invitation, he was merely getting my point
-of view. We were standing within a few miles of
-the richest champagne producing vineyards in the
-world. Then I looked in the direction of the dug-out,
-into the dimly lighted entrance, and I saw
-stretcher bearers slowly coming out bearing a
-wounded soldier and I braced myself for the first
-shock of the horrors of war. Gently the wounded
-soldier was lifted into my ambulance, then two more
-wounded were carried out. I closed and fastened
-the back curtain of the car, started the engine and
-climbed into the seat. “Drive gently,” said the officer,
-shaking hands with me. “Thank you, good-night,”
-and I started on the return trip, in the dark
-without lights.</p>
-
-<p>As I drove back to the town of Ludes, troops
-were moving to the front under the cover of darkness
-and I was obliged to blow my whistle continually.
-Now and then a large camion would loom up
-suddenly in the darkness directly in front of me&mdash;a
-little blacker than the darkness itself&mdash;that is how
-I could see it. I would turn quickly to avoid being
-hit. We always drove without lights at the front.
-Half way up the long hill leading to the town of
-Verzenay the water was boiling in the radiator and
-the engine was hitting on three cylinders&mdash;I wondered
-if I would make the heavy grade; I wondered
-if a bursting shell would sweep the road; I wondered
-if I would get the wounded safely back; I
-wondered about many things in those moments on
-my first night drive in the dark. On through the
-dark winding narrow streets of the town of Verzeney,
-at one place driving with difficulty through a
-flock of sheep, on in safety to the town of Ludes
-to the building which served as a field hospital. I
-felt a great sense of relief when I drew up at the
-entrance safely back with my wounded.</p>
-
-<p>Then I drove back to the little Swiss chalet to
-await my next call. Before turning in for a little
-sleep I stood in the entrance listening to the continual
-firing along the front and watching the signal
-rockets, the star shells, and the flashes of the guns.
-Then I went inside, climbed over a sleeping companion,
-found a vacant space on the floor, rolled up
-in my blanket, put my coat under my head and went
-to sleep.</p>
-
-<p>I had not been sleeping long when the telephone
-bell rang. It was my turn out again. This time I
-received instructions to drive over into another direction
-to a château which served as the headquarters
-of a French General. Château Romont it was
-called. There I was to await further instructions.
-So I parked my car in the courtyard and was led
-down into the dark cellar of the château. As I
-entered I could hear heavy breathing&mdash;evidently
-some one was sleeping there. A light was made and
-I was shown a rough cot where I might sleep until
-needed. Again I curled up in my blanket and was
-quickly asleep. I had only been asleep for a few
-minutes when some one touched me on the shoulder
-and awakened me. This time I was to drive over to
-the shell wrecked town of Sillery. It was then
-about four in the morning, the dawn was grey and
-then a streak of red in the east over the line of
-German trenches. The firing had subsided to some
-extent.</p>
-
-<p>Into the shell wrecked town of Sillery I drove,
-and I could see in the growing light that many
-houses had been levelled to the ground and there
-were none at all that did not bear the marks of
-battle. I drove into a court yard, inside the gate
-of which there was a large shell hole. Stretcher
-bearers were waiting for me&mdash;there was no delay
-this time. Two men were lifted into the car. They
-were suffering very great agony but I could see no
-marks of blood. I understood at once&mdash;they were
-victims of poison gas.</p>
-
-<p>This time there was no need to drive slowly back
-again to the town of Ludes to the hospital. It was
-broad daylight when I reached there. A sleepy
-stretcher bearer came out carrying a lantern, which
-was not needed. The two men were lifted out of
-the car and lowered to the ground. They were
-writhing in agony&mdash;one of them rolled off his
-stretcher into the gutter, and died at my feet. That
-was my first night on duty at the front&mdash;that was
-my baptism of fire.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_7" id="Chap_7"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Seven">VII</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">“Raising Hell Down at Epernay”</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Sir Philip Sidney, for whom I believe I was more
-or less hopefully named, gained immortal fame by
-giving his last drop of water to a dying comrade on
-the field of battle. I desire to mention that I gave
-my last cigarette to a perfectly live stretcher bearer
-while under shell fire. For twenty-four hours I
-had been stationed at the dug-out in the canal bank
-in front of the Esperance farm; the place where
-I had been the first time I went to post. Several
-time since I had gone there and now felt quite at
-home in those surroundings.</p>
-
-<p>During the last twenty-four hours shells had
-been coming in with a fair regularity. The Germans
-were endeavoring to drive out a battery which
-evidently had given them some annoyance. In a
-comparatively short period I counted more than a
-hundred shells, shrieking over my head, striking
-and bursting a hundred yards in front of me, throwing
-the earth in every direction, the rocks and pieces
-of shell spattering around close to where I stood.
-Several trees were cut down by the bombardment
-and they fell like so many twigs.</p>
-
-<p>I had been alone during those twenty-four hours
-and had begun to realize that waiting for a run was
-quite as trying as the run itself, particularly as I
-could observe that when I did start I would be
-obliged to pass uncomfortably close to the corner
-where the shells were hitting. Toward the end of
-the afternoon some wounded came straggling in.
-After twenty-four hours under whistling shells I
-was glad to start back to Ludes and to a cigarette.</p>
-
-<p>I spent the early evening at the little Swiss chalet.
-About nine o’clock I received a call to carry
-two wounded officers back to the town of Epernay.
-It was a beautiful, cool, moonlight evening and I
-enjoyed the prospect of the peaceful drive away
-from the sound of the war, not realizing that there
-was a rather interesting evening in store for me. I
-drove across the Marne into the town of Epernay
-at about eleven o’clock and took one of the wounded
-officers to the principal hospital there. The other
-officer I was instructed to take on to another hospital,
-located at the top of a hill on the outskirts of
-the town. Epernay is an old town and the streets
-are narrow, winding, and quite as confusing as
-Boston, particularly when driving at night without
-lights.</p>
-
-<p>As I pulled up the hill out on an open road in
-sight of the hospital, I saw a flash of light in the
-sky, followed by a sharp report&mdash;then there was
-a shower of lights much like rockets followed by a
-series of reports. As I stopped the car in the hospital
-grounds and was assisting stretcher bearers to
-lift out the wounded officer, I could hear the droning
-of several aeroplanes overhead but could not
-see them. Hospital aides, half dressed in white
-trousers, and in bare feet, were crowded in the
-doorway. Everyone understood what was happening.
-The Germans had come over in numbers for
-one of their periodical raids.</p>
-
-<p>Incendiary bombs were now dropping down in
-the heart of the town where I had just passed.
-Church bells were ringing as a warning for all civilians
-to take to their caves&mdash;a warning which
-seemed quite superfluous. There was a terrific explosion,
-followed by a burst of flames which lighted
-up the sky. A building had been set on fire. Standing
-beside my car, I took off my fatigue cap and
-substituted my steel helmet, which I always carried
-with me when not actually wearing it. Steel helmets
-have saved many lives. The bombardment
-became more furious as time went on&mdash;bombs were
-dropping on various parts of the city. Several
-powerful searchlights began to sweep the heavens
-and two broad shafts of light crossed, and in the
-cross they held in view a German plane. It was
-flying low and not far overhead from where I
-stood. The two searchlights followed the movement
-of the plane and held it in the cross while the
-anti-aircraft guns opened fire. I could see the
-shells bursting underneath the plane but none hit
-and quickly the plane flew out of range and disappeared
-from sight. But the raiders continued the
-bombardment.</p>
-
-<p>Having waited for some time for the firing to
-cease I decided to start back for post at Ludes.
-Unless there was very good reason for not doing so,
-we were expected to return to post as soon as we
-had finished the errand which had taken us away.
-To drive back it was necessary for me to return
-through the heart of the town were the bombs had
-fallen and were still falling. So far as possible I
-kept on the “shady” side of the street out of the
-moonlight, pausing at every corner for a moment.
-Sometimes there would be a deafening crash near
-by. I would stop&mdash;put my head down and my arms
-over my face, then would drive quickly into the
-next street. I passed the postoffice just after it
-was hit&mdash;pieces of shutters, doors and glass were
-littered about the street and I feared for punctured
-tires. I drove on a short distance, turned around
-and went back, pausing in front of the demolished
-building, but could hear no sound. The street was
-absolutely deserted. As I continued my drive over
-the deserted streets the only sign of humanity I
-would see was an occasional soldier with his gun
-standing in the comparative shelter of a doorway.</p>
-
-<p>Before leaving the town I stopped for a moment
-at the hospital where I had first been and an officer
-who could speak a little English asked me to
-stay all night in the “cave.” “It is a bad night to
-be out,” he said. The invitation was alluring, but I
-decided to push on to Ludes.</p>
-
-<p>To get out of the town I must recross the bridge
-over the Marne, close to the railroad station, and I
-had been informed that raiders were making a particular
-effort to hit the station. As I shot out across
-the bridge in the broad moonlight, in full view from
-above, I could see some freight cars burning. I
-wished that some friend were sittting beside me,
-but I often wished that on these lonely nerve-racking
-night drives.</p>
-
-<p>When I drew out into the open country I felt no
-inclination to turn on my lights, for I had heard of
-a staff car just a short while before driving over the
-same road. The driver had turned on his lights.
-The target was seen from an aeroplane&mdash;a bomb
-was dropped with accurate aim, demolishing the
-car and killing all the occupants.</p>
-
-<p>Reaching Ludes some time in the middle of the
-night, I stepped over the form of Curtis, who,
-curled up in his blankets, was asleep on the floor.
-He awoke and sleepily inquired: “Who’s there?”
-I told him. “Anything going on?” he inquired still
-sleepily.</p>
-
-<p>“Seem to be raising hell down at Epernay,” I
-told him quietly, so as not to awaken anyone who
-might be sleeping.</p>
-
-<p>“That so?” muttered Curtis, and with no more
-show of interest went back to sleep.</p>
-
-<p>The next day I learned that many houses had
-been destroyed. Five wounded soldiers had been
-killed in the hospital where I had been invited to
-spend the night.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_8" id="Chap_8"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Eight">VIII</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Norton’s Last Ride</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Frederick Norton and I were new men in an old
-Section. We were new men in an old crowd, consequently
-when we joined the Section we made no
-effort to break into any old established circles.
-When off duty together, he and I were accustomed
-to taking long walks across the fields and to the
-towns behind the lines and on these walks I learned
-to know what I already believed&mdash;that he was a
-man of exceptional character, quiet, unassuming,
-modest; a gentleman in the best sense of the word;
-a delightful companion, an ideal soldier. On one
-of our walks we talked some of spending “permission”
-together on the coast of Brittany.</p>
-
-<p>I remember when I went to post for the first time
-Norton stepped up to me and shook hands, wishing
-me luck and an interesting trip. That established
-a custom between us. After that we always shook
-hands when either one or the other of us started
-for post.</p>
-
-<p>When we had been in the Section for a short
-while we were invited to join three of the older fellows
-and to transfer our cots to a tent underneath
-the trees just outside the grounds of a very beautiful
-château, owned, I believe, by M. Chandon, of
-Möet &amp; Chandon. We naturally accepted the invitation
-with pleasure and thus we became established
-as members of the old crowd. Formalities
-ceased from that time.</p>
-
-<p>The château had been converted into a hospital
-and at night a lighted red cross over the large iron
-gates showed the entrance to approaching cars.</p>
-
-<p>We had some pleasant evenings under the trees
-when off duty, even though we could hear the distant
-firing of the guns. We sang some, a guitar
-and mandolin also furnished music. We listened to
-New Townsend reminisce about his experiences in
-Belgium in the early part of the war. Frank Farnham
-and “Red” Day occasionally sang a duet without
-much persuasion. With difficulty “Farney”
-was prevailed on to yodel. On one occasion Ned
-Townsend danced the dance of the seven veils by
-moonlight. Sometimes we would hear the whirr
-of an aeroplane overhead. The light in our tent
-would be extinguished by the first man who could
-reach it and silence would reign.</p>
-
-<p>So in spite of the war there were many pleasant
-moments. A spirit of comradeship grew up between
-us all. Under such conditions, sharing the
-same dangers, the some hardships, the same pleasures,
-we grew to know each other better in a short
-space of time than would have been possible in
-years in the ordinary peaceful walks of life.</p>
-
-<p>Ned Townsend, the oldest man in point of service,
-remarked that the best of fellowship had always
-prevailed in Section One&mdash;that it had always
-been more like a club in that respect than a military
-organization. He also mentioned casually that
-Section One had almost always been lucky&mdash;very
-few casualties had marked its long, arduous and
-dangerous career at the front.</p>
-
-<p>On the afternoon of July 12 I saw Frederick
-Norton starting for the front, and, following our
-custom, I went over to his car, shook hands with
-him and wished him “good luck.” I told him the
-next time we were off duty together we must take a
-walk over the neighboring hills to inspect a windmill
-which had been erected about the time Columbus
-discovered America. Then he was off to the town
-of Ludes&mdash;to the little Swiss chalet hidden behind
-the trees.</p>
-
-<p>That night was a bright moonlight night&mdash;an
-ideal night for avions. Early in the evening those
-of us at Louvoise were having music under the
-trees. A few convalescent soldiers from the château
-hospital were sitting about in the grass, listening.
-As the moon came up and shone through
-the trees I recall “Red” Day remarking: “The
-avions will be over to-night,” and a short while after
-we heard the unmistakable crash of an avion bomb
-down the road in the direction of Epernay.</p>
-
-<p>It must have been pretty close to eleven o’clock
-that Frederick Norton was standing in the back
-window of the little Swiss chalet at Ludes, from
-which place he could get a glimpse of the battle
-lines through the boughs of the trees. He was waiting
-for his call to go to the front. His call was soon
-to come. He no doubt heard the whirr of the approaching
-aeroplane overhead&mdash;he may have heard
-the deafening crash of the bomb as it struck the
-ground, making a crater in the earth and riddling
-the walls of the peaceful chalet. But then the
-sound of the war was forever silenced&mdash;for him. A
-piece of the shell had cut his throat&mdash;another had
-pierced his heart. He pitched forward, then fell
-backward on the floor. He had answered his final
-call.</p>
-
-<p>The following night I walked beside my friend
-Frederick Norton for the last time. He was not
-laid to rest until after dusk because his burial place
-was on the side of a hill in view of the enemy&mdash;in
-view of the towers of the desecrated cathedral at
-Rheims&mdash;as fine a place as any for a volunteer who
-had earned an honorable rest.</p>
-
-<p>There were French officers of high rank in the
-gathering to pay homage to the Volunteer American&mdash;a
-priest, a Protestant chaplain, his friends in
-Section One&mdash;a squad of soldiers under arms. As
-we stood there in the growing dusk a German aeroplane
-flew overhead and swept the roadside nearby
-with its rapid fire gun. All looked up but no one
-moved. The benediction being said, we walked
-slowly away.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_9" id="Chap_9"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Nine">IX</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Bastille Day</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">July 14, 1917, was “Bastille Day,” the great
-French national holiday, and the troops were greatly
-heartened by the fact that at last America was
-coming over to help them win the war. French and
-American troops were to parade together in Paris&mdash;the
-fighters at the front were to have a special
-dinner, with a cup of champagne and a cigar. A
-few of the men in our Section who had a short leave
-of absence coming due were going into Paris for a
-couple of days.</p>
-
-<p>Personally, I was glad that I was going out to
-the front on duty. I felt the need of active, strenuous
-work. During the forenoon several shells came
-shrieking over the little Swiss chalet, striking in a
-field a short distance back. A little while later I
-saw a dead soldier being carried into the town by
-his comrades. One shell struck in a field outside the
-town where a young girl was working in the vineyard
-and she was obliged to desert her work and
-run for shelter. I wondered if the Germans had
-observed the movements of our ambulances in and
-out of the grounds of the chalet or whether they
-were merely observing the French holiday. Some
-one remarked that following a custom of three years
-standing, they would do what they could to disturb
-the holiday dinner of the French soldiers. About
-noon a couple of shells struck in the town of Ludes
-but did no great amount of damage. A few civilians
-were still living in Ludes and in the kitchen of
-a little French woman we ate our meals when not
-out on a run. We supplied the food and she cooked
-for us. I remember during my first luncheon in that
-kitchen seeing her send her little daughters off to
-school with gas masks flung across their shoulders.</p>
-
-<p>“Bastille Day” was a fairly busy afternoon and
-that night there was no time to rest. Sometimes it
-was a call to go out to the Esperance farm&mdash;sometimes
-a call to run into the town of Sillery&mdash;sometimes
-to report at the Château Romont back of
-Sillery to await further orders.</p>
-
-<p>That night I had no sleep at all, though I made
-several efforts. Early in the evening I found myself
-at the Château Romont, and when I was going
-to retire for a little rest I was not shown down into
-the dark cellar where I slept for a short while the
-first night I had been there. I was invited into a
-large back room in the château which had once evidently
-been a handsome billiard room. On the walls
-were deer antlers and a boar’s head. The billiard
-table had been pushed over in a corner of the room
-out of the way and in its place was a table at which
-officers sat poring over maps and reports. A telephone
-was on the table and on the walls were large
-maps. I stretched out on a bare rough “crib” to
-rest. One of the officers called an orderly and said
-something to him which I did not hear. The orderly
-went into another room and returned with an
-armful of rugs. He placed them in the crib and
-once more I stretched out on this most comfortable
-couch. But just then the telephone rang. I got up,
-pulled on my boots, put on my coat, and as I started
-out the officer at the table smiled sympathetically
-at me and said “Bon nuit.”</p>
-
-<p>Midnight in the little Swiss chalet. I had returned
-from a run and had lain down to sleep just
-outside the room where two nights before Frederick
-Norton had fallen. Again there was a call. Some
-time after one o’clock, at the dug-out in the canal
-bank in front of the Esperance farm, I again lay
-down, only to be called a few minutes later. I drove
-down the road to a post I had not visited before, and
-while the wounded were being placed in the car I
-was instructed to shut off my motor for fear the
-Germans might hear and open fire. The car being
-filled with three wounded men on stretchers inside,
-and one less seriously wounded on the front seat
-with me, I started off for Ludes. Along the road
-I struck a small shell hole which gave the car a
-severe jolt and the wounded inside cried out: “Oh,
-comrade! comrade!” In the morning I discovered
-that the jolt had cracked the front spring of the car
-but the wounded had forgiven me for my poor
-driving.</p>
-
-<p>At Ludes the hospital was filled and I must push
-on back to the town of Epernay to one of the hospitals
-there. As I drove into the town at daylight
-I saw a strange sight. Straggling into the town
-were old men, women and children, all looking worn
-and bedraggled. Some carried blankets, some were
-pushing little carts in which were piled up household
-belongings. Some of the women were carrying
-babies in their arms.</p>
-
-<p>The night before a warning had gone out that an
-air raid was expected and these civilians living under
-the shadow of the war had taken to the “caves” on
-the outskirts of the city for protection.</p>
-
-<p>I reached the principal hospital in the town and,
-as frequently happened, was sent to another hospital
-further on. When I arrived there I was feeling
-tired, bedraggled, hungry and out of sorts myself
-after the all night strain. But if I felt like complaining
-I promptly changed my mind and decided
-to be cheerful.</p>
-
-<p>Stopping my car, I went around to the back and
-raised the curtain. One of the wounded, a young
-fellow, looked up at me with the pleasantest expression
-in the world and said: “Hello, boy
-Americaine! Good morning!”</p>
-
-<p>But that is the spirit of the French.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_10" id="Chap_10"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Ten">X</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Here Kultur Passed</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Toward the end of July we received orders that
-we were to move from the Champagne region, but
-we did not know just where we were to be sent.
-Early one morning, the order to move having come,
-we had loaded our cars with tents, supplies, automobile
-parts, all the paraphernalia of an ambulance
-section, and our personal belongings, and had
-formed in a line on the main thoroughfare of the
-picturesque town of Louvois. Stevenson drove up
-to the head of the procession, blew his whistle once
-and every engine was started; he blew his whistle
-twice, and we were off down the road in the direction
-of Epernay. The villagers of Louvois were
-on the street to wave us “Au ’voir.” There were
-old men, women and girls. The young men were
-all at the front.</p>
-
-<p>Outside the town of Epernay we drew up alongside
-the road and waited further instructions. Some
-thought we were going to Belgium, others said
-we were going down into the Verdun sector. Our
-French Lieutenant, Reymond, had gone on ahead
-in his car for orders. Presently he returned and we
-learned that we were to drive in the direction of
-Verdun.</p>
-
-<p>Stevenson, at the head of the procession, blew
-his whistle and once more all cars were started&mdash;soon
-we were rolling along the road.</p>
-
-<p>At noon we reached Châlons, where we had luncheon
-in a café crowded with French officers. By late
-afternoon we reached the outskirts of the town of
-Vietry, and as we drove into the town we saw a
-squad of German prisoners, under guard, marching
-along the road. If they noticed that we were Americans,
-they showed no emotion even if they felt any.
-At Vietry we were to spend the night. We were
-shown to a large barn in which to sleep. Some
-Russian troops had occupied the barn a short while
-before and the straw littered about looked rather
-risky. As it promised to be a clear night some of us
-decided to sleep out in the open field under the
-trees. The cows were less to be feared than the
-straw in the barn or even the avions above.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px">
- <img src="images/i_063.jpg"
- width="498" height="310"
- alt="Illustration: The Last of Ambulance No. 4"
- />
- <p class="caption">The Last of Ambulance <abbr title="Number">No.</abbr> 4</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Having parked our cars, several of us strolled to
-the banks of the historic Marne and were quickly
-splashing around in the refreshing though muddy
-water. Then over to a café in the city for supper.
-The supper developed into a banquet. It was the
-first time in a great while that the entire Section and
-its French attachés had all sat together at one time
-and everyone off duty. Singing commenced before
-
-the meal was half over, and if not all harmonious
-it was at least hearty. The darkness came on but
-no lights were made in the room on account of
-danger from the avions, but the hilarity did not die
-out in the growing gloom.</p>
-
-<p>Roy Stockwell was obliged to sing several verses
-of a war song which was called “Around Her Leg
-She Wore a Purple Ribbon,” in which every one
-joined in the chorus, singing:</p>
-
-<div class="poem-container">
- <div class="poem">
- <div class="i0a">“Far away, far away,</div>
- <div class="i0">She wore it for her lover</div>
- <div class="i0">Who was far, far away.”</div>
- </div><!--end poem-->
-</div><!--end container-->
-
-<p>“Winnie” Wertz, the French cook, sang a pastoral
-song of peaceful life on the farm after the war
-was over. One or two men tried to make speeches
-but received scant encouragement. The singing
-continued till late in the evening, when we wended
-our way back to the open field for a night of peaceful
-sleep under the trees. As we walked through
-the city on the way a quartette was lustily singing:</p>
-
-<div class="poem-container">
- <div class="poem">
- <div class="i0a">“Far away, far away,</div>
- <div class="i0">She wore it for her lover,</div>
- <div class="i0">Who was far, far away.”</div>
- </div><!--end poem-->
-</div><!--end container-->
-
-<p>No doubt the French inhabitants awoke to shrug
-a shoulder and patiently mutter: “Oh, those terrible
-Americans.”</p>
-
-<p>The next morning we were on our way to Bar
-le Duc, a picturesque city nestled between high hills.
-At the top of one of these hills, as we started the
-steep descent into the city, we passed a large convent
-almost totally destroyed by avion bombs. Bar
-le Duc is always subject to air raids and shows many
-marks of the war on its principal streets. Again
-we stopped for the night and here I slept on the
-sidewalk with my head against a sentry box so that
-no one would fall over me.</p>
-
-<p>On to the town of Evres through a country, as
-we advanced, showing more and more plainly the
-desolation and waste of the war. Through towns
-deserted of all civilians, over roads dry in the midsummer
-sun and unspeakably dusty from the continual
-travel toward the front. One afternoon in
-Evres, Curtis and I dropped into the home of an
-elderly French peasant woman for a lunch of delicious
-cottage cheese and a jug of fresh milk. The
-peasant woman had a sad story to tell. Her husband
-was dead; her son’s home in the village had
-been destroyed; he had been taken prisoner and his
-wife had fallen victim to the advance of Prussian
-kultur.</p>
-
-<p>At Evres we waited to move on to Verdun and
-there we learned of the great offensive that was soon
-to take place and we watched the preparations for
-it on a vast scale. We were deeply impressed.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_11" id="Chap_11"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Eleven">XI</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Verdun</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">When we moved up on the morning of August
-first to take our small part in the big offensive, we
-established our cantonment in the town of Houdainville,
-within about three miles of the city of Verdun.
-The town of Houdainville was conspicuously a war
-town, being deserted by all civilians, crowded with
-troops and subject to intermittent shelling. The
-houses were all old and many bore the marks of battle.
-Some of our men were billeted together in the
-second story of a building which was infested with
-rats. The quarters were so small that it was necessary
-to crowd the cots uncomfortably close together.
-Others of us pitched a tent in a barnyard. It was
-muddy, unsavory and very different from the place
-at Louvais, where we had our tent pitched under
-the trees outside the château of M. Chandon. We
-realized that we were not to see the war at its worst
-and we felt reconciled to added hardships by the fact
-that our Section had been assigned to the very serious
-work ahead.</p>
-
-<p>That there was very serious work ahead, indeed,
-had been brought home to us while having seen for
-days and nights the continual stream of troops,
-heavy guns, supplies and munitions moving toward
-the front. We had been told that preparations for
-this offensive had been going on for months.</p>
-
-<p>Had I been so inclined, which I was not, there
-was little time to complain of our surroundings&mdash;barely
-time to note them before I was sent out to
-post duty. Now we were to be on post duty for
-twenty-four hours and then off duty for twenty-four
-hours, in which to work on our cars and rest. This
-schedule was based on all of the cars in the Section
-being able to run, but there were times when some
-of the cars were not available.</p>
-
-<p>I was sent out to a post at Cassairne Marceau,
-at the top of a hill about three miles in front of Verdun,
-near the spot which marks the extreme advance
-of the Crown Prince in his attack of 1916. Near
-here the French had stood and said: “They shall
-not pass.” They never did, and I am sure they
-never will.</p>
-
-<p>Looking back from Cassairne Marceau I could
-see the ancient fortified city of Verdun, crowned by
-its cathedral on a hill. Close at hand were the remains
-of barracks built shortly before the war. All
-about was desolation, shell holes, pieces of exploded
-shells. In front of the post was a graveyard and
-during my many times at that post there was not a
-day that I did not see the dead being laid to rest.
-Here the war was seen in its most hideous aspect.
-Sometimes a wagon would come rumbling up to the
-post with dead piled up like so much cordwood.</p>
-
-<p>My first call to go from here to a front line post
-came before sunset. The post was near Fort Vaux.
-An officer rode with me to observe whether the road
-could be covered by a car. It was a road that no
-sane person would undertake in peace times under
-any consideration. Down a ravine between two
-hills, in a country laid absolutely barren by continual
-shell fire, the sides of the hills were pock-marked
-with shell holes; and where at one time, three years
-before, there had been a beautiful forest, there was
-not now a tree stump, a bush or a patch of grass.
-We drove along the road very slowly indeed, for
-there was danger of breaking springs and axles in
-passing, as we drove close to the artillery as they
-were firing. I was later glad for the opportunity
-of seeing that road before sunset, for I sometimes
-covered it afterward in the darkness without lights.</p>
-
-<p>We reached the poste de secour, picked up three
-wounded artillerymen and returned with added caution
-to Cassairne Marceau. It was very trying
-when we wanted to drive fast, in order to get back
-as quickly as possible to a place of comparative
-safety, that we were obliged to drive most slowly to
-save our wounded and our cars.</p>
-
-<p>Sometime around eleven o’clock that night I lay
-down on a stretcher in the dug-out at Cassairne
-Marceau to snatch a little sleep while waiting for
-my next call. At that time I was still in good condition
-and had not yet suffered from great fatigue or
-undue nervous strain and consequently could sleep
-at any time and in any place that the opportunity
-offered. Later on I was to become so fatigued and
-my nerves were so shaken from the continual strain
-that I could not sleep at all. The dug-out served
-as a dressing station and was equipped for operations&mdash;surgeons
-were in attendance there. The place
-had the odor of a hospital, with the added unpleasant
-damp odor of the underground. Not a very
-satisfactory place in which to sleep, but we slept
-there many times.</p>
-
-<p>I was just dozing off when I heard voices, footsteps
-and a moaning which was very distressing; and
-I was sufficiently conscious to realize that some one
-badly wounded was being carried in. But I must
-rest&mdash;I must sleep while the opportunity offered,
-so I dozed fitfully, never being quite unconscious of
-the fact that close by me an operation was being performed.
-Finally I was fully awakened by some one
-touching my foot. I sat up&mdash;the operation had been
-completed and I was to take the desperately wounded
-man back to a hospital in Verdun.</p>
-
-<p>It was well past midnight when the man was
-lifted into the car and I started on my dark ride,
-driving slowly. I had not yet been inside the walled
-city of Verdun. I did not know just where the hospital
-was. I had simply been informed that by
-crossing a certain bridge, entering a certain gate and
-turning down a certain street I would find it. I carried
-few wounded men who moaned in greater
-agony than did this soldier as I drove on back to
-Verdun. I found the bridge and crossed it. I
-passed through the gate inside the city walls and I
-drove slowly through the dark, silent, apparently
-deserted city. It seemed indeed like a city of the
-dead. I came to a square and in the darkness took
-the wrong street. I was doing the best that could
-be done, and I hoped the wounded soldier would live
-till we reached the hospital. I wished for someone
-to talk to&mdash;for some one to help me find the way.
-Finally I saw a sentinel on duty and he directed me
-down the right street and before long we came to
-the house which was serving as a hospital.</p>
-
-<p>That was my first entrance into the ancient fortified
-city of Verdun. When I saw the inside of my
-car at daylight I was glad that we had met with the
-sentinel when we did, for I think there could have
-been but little time to lose.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_12" id="Chap_12"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Twelve">XII</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Awaiting the Big Attack</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">We had not been many days at Houdainville
-when we received orders to move up to Beveaux,
-just a short distance outside the walled city of Verdun.
-The big attack had not yet taken place but
-was expected at any time. In the meanwhile the
-artillery activity was daily increasing.</p>
-
-<p>At Beveaux there was a large hospital which was
-almost vacant when we moved up there and pitched
-our tents. It had been made ready for the big attack
-and would probably accommodate fifteen hundred
-wounded. The preparations for the offensive
-were most impressive and tended to make us
-thoughtful. Though we were now closer to the
-front, the location of our cantonment on high, open
-ground was a welcome change to all of us. Those
-of us who in Houdainville had our tent in that
-muddy, unsavory barnyard were glad to get out.
-Those in the Section who had slept in the crowded,
-rat-ridden house, were more than glad of the
-change. That we were close to the war, in fact
-actually under it, even when off duty, was impressed
-upon us at supper time that first evening at Beveaux,
-when several shells struck within the hospital
-grounds and some hit the large stables adjoining,
-killing horses and wounding men. We all ran for
-shelter, and supper was delayed for some time.
-The hospital was shelled on several occasions after
-that.</p>
-
-<p>During our stay at Beveaux we usually retired at
-night with most of our clothes on, partly on account
-of the avions and partly because our work was so
-arduous that we were likely to be called in the night,
-even when supposedly off duty. On retiring we
-always had our steel helmets and gas masks within
-reach. Frequently at night when the avions came
-over we were obliged to get out of bed and run for
-the nearby trenches. A canvas tent affords mightly
-little protection against shell fire!</p>
-
-<p>We expected to be at Beveaux for but a very
-short time before being sent back for a rest, but
-the days went on, the long nights went on and the
-weeks rolled around before we were relieved.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_13" id="Chap_13"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Thirteen">XIII</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Under Fire in an Ambulance</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Twenty-four hours on duty&mdash;twenty-four hours
-off duty: that was the schedule in the Verdun sector,
-based on all the cars being able to run, but there
-was not a day or night that cars were not put out of
-commission, which meant that the work of those
-who were running was increased. Theoretically
-speaking that was the schedule; practically speaking
-there was no schedule. Sometimes we were on
-duty thirty hours at a stretch, though perhaps in
-that time we could snatch a little sleep between
-runs; sometimes there was no sleep at all. The
-days were bad, the nights were worse, and day or
-night, either on or off duty, we were always under
-fire. Almost every time a man came back from
-post he had an experience to tell&mdash;it seemed that
-on our runs we escaped by a matter of seconds;
-shells were always hitting just behind us, in front
-of us and around us. We saw bloodshed all the
-time. The Twenty-third Psalm speaks of “the
-valley of the shadow of death.” That describes the
-desolate land about where we were. Verdun will
-go down in history as the slaughter house of the
-world. This was real warfare.</p>
-
-<p>We were working hard all the time but we were
-buoyed up by the fact that soon, almost any day,
-the big attack would take place and then we would
-be sent back for a rest. The attack was to have
-taken place on August first but was postponed from
-day to day so that more guns might be moved into
-position, and more supplies, munitions and men
-moved up. Every night on the road we saw that
-endless procession of supply trucks, munitions,
-guns and men.</p>
-
-<p>We were covering many posts&mdash;we were getting
-very tired even before the attack took place. One
-night the General commanding a division at Fort
-Houdrement asked for more cars to be stationed
-there and he was informed that were no more cars
-to spare.</p>
-
-<p>He asked “Why?” and was informed that all of
-our cars were out.</p>
-
-<p>He asked “Where?” and he was informed of the
-various posts that we were covering. He expressed
-great surprise. He thought we were merely serving
-his division. We were serving an entire Army
-Corps.</p>
-
-<p>Fort Houdrement was a bad spot and it was a
-hard road to travel to reach there, but bad as it
-was there were other posts which most of us came
-to dread more. I first saw Fort Houdremont in
-broad daylight. Before that our cars had only gone
-there at night, because the road was so exposed.
-That I first went there in daylight was not because
-of bravery on my part or because of a desire to establish
-a precedent. It was just the result of an
-accident.</p>
-
-<p>I had turned in to sleep one night&mdash;or to sleep as
-much of the night as might be possible. A couple
-of my friends had also lain down to sleep. As we
-lay in the darkness under the shelter of the tent we
-could hear the firing of the artillery all along the
-front. Then a sudden gust of cool wind blew the
-flaps of the tent and we heard the patter of rain
-above our heads. A thunder storm was coming on.
-The sound of the thunder was mingled with the
-noise of the artillery. Our tent was occasionally
-lighted by flashes of lightning and I could see my
-companions lying awake on their cots. The rain
-came down in torrents, the lightning became louder
-and the roar of the artillery less distinct, until when
-the storm had reached its height the pouring rain
-and the sound of the thunder drowned out the sound
-of the artillery. And as we lay there one of my
-friends spoke up in the darkness and said quietly:
-“Phil, it sounds as if God in Heaven is still omnipotent.”
-And I said: “Yes, I am glad that God
-in Heaven is still omnipotent in spite of the fact
-that the tent is leaking right over my face.” Then
-I pulled the blankets over my head and dozed off
-to sleep&mdash;but not for long.</p>
-
-<p>I was soon awakened and told it was my turn out.
-It was still raining hard and I could hear the thunder
-and see the flashes of lightning as I bundled up
-and went out to my car and started out to find Fort
-Houdremont. I had never been there. I merely
-had a general direction as to where it was. It was
-a bad night for a ten-mile ride to a post I had never
-been to. It was not quite midnight when I started.
-The roads were slippery and crowded with traffic
-and progress was slow. About four miles out traffic
-was blocked for over half an hour, part of which
-time I dozed sitting at the wheel. Then once more
-motors began to whirr, trucks were groaning, horses
-were pulling and tugging, officers on horseback
-were shouting orders.</p>
-
-<p>The procession moved on, getting nearer the
-battle, and along the road we could see the flashes
-of fire from the artillery and the exploding shells as
-they struck. On through the town of Bras, a desolate
-shell wrecked place, then on about a half a
-mile beyond. There I saw a chance to make time
-and gain ground by pulling out of the procession,
-driving ahead and crowding into an opening further
-on. A large motor truck loomed up in front
-of me. I turned sharply to escape being hit and
-ran into a ditch. I was hopelessly stalled.</p>
-
-<p>One of our cars, driven by Holt, came directly
-back of me. He stopped to see if he could give me
-help. I told him it was impossible for us to pull
-the car out. He saw that for himself and as he
-drove on he shouted “Good-night” to me and I
-called back “Good-night” to him.</p>
-
-<p>He could not have gone far when I saw a shell
-burst directly down the road over which he had
-gone. I wondered how close a call he had. Next
-day he told me he had jumped out of his car and
-was crouching in a ditch when the shell struck.</p>
-
-<p>I stood alongside of my car in the rain and mud,
-shells coming in along the road as the procession of
-the night moved past me. Every one had his work
-to do and must move on. Once four poilus paused
-long enough to see whether they could help push
-my car out of the ditch, but it was useless and they
-went on.</p>
-
-<p>There was nothing to do but to wait for daylight;
-and it was a long wait. During the night two
-horses were killed beside my car.</p>
-
-<p>The dawn came on slowly, the rain stopped, the
-firing became less intense. The procession of the
-night had disappeared I knew not where. An
-empty ammunition wagon came clattering up the
-road, the driver cracking his whip and urging the
-four horses to greater speed. When the sun finally
-appeared I found myself alone in view of the enemy.
-Alone, excepting for the two dead horses lying
-in the road. Then I went for help.</p>
-
-<p>I walked back to the town of Bras and if it
-looked forlorn at night it looked even more so in
-the daylight. Places where some houses had once
-stood were now merely marked by débris tumbled
-into the cellars&mdash;dead horses were lying about. A
-French ambulance gave me a lift back to Verdun
-and there I found one of our cars which took me
-back to our cantonment, where I reported my difficulties.
-Stevenson called to Hanna, who was off
-duty, and in his car we three drove back over the
-road to where I had abandoned my ambulance.</p>
-
-<p>I really was sceptical about finding anything
-more than a pile of wreckage, but the car was still
-there and so were the two dead horses. Before we
-proceeded to pull my car out with the aid of Hanna’s
-car, I tenderly lifted an unexploded shell from
-under the rear wheel, carried it over to the other
-side of the road and laid it down.</p>
-
-<p>Then on to Houdrement&mdash;Stevenson riding with
-me and Hanna following in his car. Reaching
-there, we walked up the side of a steep hill to the
-dressing station and inquired for any wounded that
-might be there. I was caked with mud from head
-to foot. A French officer smiled at my appearance.
-I saluted and he extended his hand. The French
-officers were usually quite as polite to us as if we
-were officers ourselves.</p>
-
-<p>We found some wounded who would otherwise
-have been kept there until darkness had set in. After
-that our Section covered the run to Fort Houdremont
-in daylight with regularity; and in spite
-of the fact that the road was exposed to view, most
-of us found the daylight run much less nerve-racking
-than in the night.</p>
-
-<p>“Do the boche fire on ambulances?” I have sometimes
-been asked.</p>
-
-<p>“Certainly!” I have answered.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_14" id="Chap_14"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Fourteen">XIV</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">The Big Shells Come Over</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">The days and nights went on, but still the attack
-did not take place, but the artillery duels were
-growing in intensity every night.</p>
-
-<p>If there was any belief that preparations for the
-attack were not known, this belief was dispelled
-when the Germans erected a sign over their trenches
-reading&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“<span class="sc">We will be waiting for you on the fifteenth</span>”&mdash;but
-the fifteenth passed by and&mdash;the attack
-did not take place. We were getting very
-tired&mdash;we were becoming conscious that we had
-nerves&mdash;the driving became more hazardous and
-terrifying with the increased activity of the artillery.</p>
-
-<p>Early on the evening of August seventeenth,
-I was off duty and was standing talking to some
-of the fellows, enjoying an after supper pipe and
-watching the anti-aircraft guns popping at a German
-aeroplane when Stevenson walked up. He
-said a telephone message had just come in informing
-him that Stockwell had broken the front spring
-of his car out at Fort Houdremont. I was to take
-a new spring out and Pearl was to go along to help
-make the repairs.</p>
-
-<p>William Pearl was our volunteer mechanician
-and had been with the Section for some time. Before
-that he had been a Rhodes scholar. After the
-war he would practice law.</p>
-
-<p>Pearl and I started off and we had not gone far
-when it began to rain&mdash;it frequently rained at Verdun.
-We stopped to slip our rubber ponchos over
-our heads. Perhaps that brief delay was the cause
-of what happened shortly after. A matter of seconds
-sometimes changes destiny when at the front.
-I recall that on one occasion I slowed down my car
-for a few seconds, just long enough to light a cigarette,
-and as I paused a shell struck on the road, not
-far in front of me. I am sure but for the lighting
-of that cigarette, the shell would have scored a direct
-hit. Yet some people say that cigarettes are
-an unmixed evil!</p>
-
-<p>We drove on in the rain along the bank of the
-Meuse past the city of Verdun, up a long hill along
-which were formed the troops, the munition trucks,
-the cannon, the camions waiting to move toward the
-front under darkness; and when the procession once
-started to move, we knew from experience that
-progress would be slow along the road. So we
-drove as rapidly as possible, and as we drove, we
-got into conversation and Pearl told me that in all
-his experience Section One had never known anything
-worse that what we had been through at Verdun.
-I had heard Ned Townsend say the same
-thing, and Townsend had been at the front most of
-the time since the war started.</p>
-
-<p>As we began to descend the long hill, we could
-see shells striking near the road and when we
-reached the bottom of the hill, we came to a large
-camion ditched and deserted on one side of the road
-and on the other side of the road a large shell hole.
-It was now dusk and I stopped my car to see
-whether I could pass without running into the hole.
-Then we heard the terrific shriek to which our ears
-had become accustomed&mdash;and then the crash. Pearl
-had stepped partly from the seat and had crouched
-down&mdash;I had put my head down and covered my
-face with my arms. The pieces of shell and rocks
-spattered around the car and hit it in several places.
-Each fraction of a second I expected to feel a stinging
-sensation but I quickly came to a realization
-that I was not scratched. I raised my head and
-asked&mdash;“Are you all right, Pearl?” Then I saw
-a magnificent display of calm courage. As he stood
-up, Pearl replied as quietly as if he had discovered
-something wrong with the front tire: “I think my
-arm is gone.”</p>
-
-<p>It was not gone but badly shattered. With nerves
-calm and head cool, though he was bleeding badly,
-he got up on the seat beside me. The nearest dressing
-station was at Houdrement and we drove on. I
-am not sure, but I think a shell must have struck behind
-us at that moment because I later discovered
-a hole in the rear curtain of the car and the rear
-hub cap was cut as if by a steel chisel.</p>
-
-<p>At Houdrement we left the car at the cross roads
-and started to climb the steep muddy embankment
-to reach the dressing post. Pearl was losing blood
-and getting weak, but still calm. I am sure he was
-more calm than I was. While his wound was being
-dressed I telephoned and reported the accident
-to Stevenson. I reported that I would remain at
-Houdrement with Pearl until he could be moved.
-There was some question as to whether he might be
-obliged to stay all night, but it was finally decided
-to move him back to the hospital at Beveaux without
-waiting.</p>
-
-<p>It was now pitch dark and the roads were crowded
-with traffic coming toward the front. Progress
-was extremely slow on the way back. We would
-perhaps drive a quarter of a mile and then be held
-up for a quarter of an hour. Shells were arriving
-and shells were departing. It was a bad night, but
-all nights were hideously bad in front of Verdun.
-Whenever we stopped, I would open the little front
-door of the car and ask Pearl how he felt and always
-would come back the reply, “All right.” Once
-we were held up for an unusually long time and I
-walked ahead to see what was holding up the traffic.
-It was a large gun that had become ditched and
-men and horses and trucks were pulling and groaning
-and straining. Finally we were on our way
-and without further bad delays we reached the hospital
-at Beveaux. It had taken us two hours to
-cover less than ten miles.</p>
-
-<p>I saw Pearl carried from his stretcher and tucked
-in bed and then I could not refrain from telling him
-what I felt: “Pearl, you have got about the finest,
-coolest nerve of any man I have ever seen.”</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_15" id="Chap_15"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Fifteen">XV</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Under the Shell Shower</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Still the attack did not take place and still we
-were staying on and getting very tired.</p>
-
-<p>On the morning and afternoon of the twentieth,
-I made several trips to Houdremont. Late in the
-afternoon we heard that the long delayed and much
-heralded attack would start that night. As I was
-returning to Houdremont about five o’clock, Stevenson
-instructed me to wait there until midnight
-for wounded and then to return and go off duty.</p>
-
-<p>At dusk began the most terrific artillery firing
-that I had ever heard. There was not a second’s
-cessation in the firing&mdash;it was as continual and rapid
-as the rolling of a snare drum. Standing on the hill
-in front of the poste de secours at Houdrement in
-front of the French guns the shells were slipping
-through the air; that is the way they sounded, as
-if they were being shot along greased planes. I
-not only heard the departing shells, I actually saw
-them&mdash;black spots flying through space. At first
-I was sceptical. I thought perhaps my vision had
-become impaired or perhaps it was the effect of
-deranged nerves, but I asked White if he could see
-what I did and he said he could. Night came on
-and soon the men in the trenches would “go over
-the top” for the final rush. If it was a strain for us,
-the waiting must have been a most terrible strain
-for them. There were several other cars besides
-mine at Houdrement as night came on, but I would
-be the last to leave. Stretcher bearers, their faces
-set and worn, came in bearing wounded.</p>
-
-<p>Patterson’s car was loaded and he started back
-over the bombarded road for Beveaux. Hanna’s
-car was loaded and he started back. White’s car
-was loaded and at the foot of the hill his car broke
-down and under shrapnel fire the wounded were
-transferred to another car. Kirtsburg’s car was
-loaded and he started back. Then I was the only
-one left. I sat down beside a stretcher bearer and
-we smoked in silence. The waiting seemed unbearable,
-listening to the ceaseless thunder of the guns.
-I fully realized, when I did start, just what I must
-pass through to get back to the hospital at Beveaux,
-nearly ten miles away. I wondered how much
-longer I must wait. I began to realize for the first
-time how men were glad to be slightly wounded in
-order to get out of that hell. Pieces of shell were
-spattering around where we sat, so we went inside
-underground. A soldier who had been brought in
-just a little while before was raving and fighting&mdash;he
-had gone insane. Gendarmes threw him to the
-floor.</p>
-
-<p>At ten o’clock an operation was being performed,
-and as we stood close to the operating table, my
-friend the stretcher bearer brought me a cup of tea.
-I thought at the moment the strain of waiting to
-go into the inferno outside was the worst experience
-I had ever known. But at last the time came&mdash;my
-ambulance was loaded and I started back&mdash;not
-by way of Bras, because gas was coming in and
-settling in the lowlands, but up a steep long hill
-which at least would be comparatively free from
-gas&mdash;every inch of the way passing artillery pounding
-incessantly, so that I could not distinguish the
-difference between the sound of arriving and departing
-shells. The flashes of fire in my face were
-so blinding that I was obliged time and again to
-pause and get my bearings, to avoid running off
-the road.</p>
-
-<p>Three times while pulling up that long hill, the
-engine of my car stalled and I would climb over the
-wounded soldier sitting by my side and get the engine
-started again. I felt fatigued almost to the
-breaking point. I felt sure that if I reached Beveaux
-I would be physically unable to drive again
-that night. I thought of the weary, drawn faces of
-those stretcher bearers back at Houdremont, silently
-going out and silently returning with their
-burdens. I thought of my own face. This was
-not vanity&mdash;it was simply that my face seemed to
-pinch at the cheek bones.</p>
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px">
- <img src="images/i_089.jpg"
- width="498" height="302"
- alt="Illustration: Where Men Live Like Rats"
- />
- <p class="caption">Where Men Live Like Rats and With Them</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>On I went until my car, jerking and limping on
-three cylinders, drew up on the grounds at the Beveaux
-hospital. But after the car had stopped, it
-still seemed to be moving. Others told me they
-had experienced the same sensation, when they had
-almost reached the point of exhaustion.</p>
-
-<p>I walked over to our dining tent&mdash;stumbled over
-a guy rope and went inside. I had absolute confidence
-in the forethought of Stevenson. I struck
-a match, found some cold meat, a piece of bread
-and a cup of pinard; then I tumbled into my cot.</p>
-
-<p>All along the front I could hear the incessant
-pounding of the guns, like the rolling of a snare
-drum, and then I fell asleep.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_16" id="Chap_16"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Sixteen">XVI</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Aftermath of Battle</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">The attack had taken place&mdash;thousands had been
-killed and wounded on both sides of the lines, but
-the French had taken many German prisoners.
-They had advanced their lines&mdash;they had gained
-important hills. The Germans had been driven
-back. The attack had been a success.</p>
-
-<p>But still no relief came for us, we must stay on,
-“just for three or four days longer,” through the
-counter attack of the Germans. We stayed on
-through the counter attack. Events were happening
-fast to us. A couple of our men had taken sick&mdash;had
-broken down under the strain and been sent
-in to Paris. Gamble had broken his arm cranking
-his car and he was sent in to Paris. Oller developed
-appendicitis and was sent to a hospital a little further
-back from the lines for an operation. The hospital
-where he went was shelled and some of the occupants
-were killed. Oller had stayed on much
-longer than most men would in his condition. Holt
-was gassed&mdash;Buhl was gassed&mdash;Patterson was
-gassed; but they stayed on. Drivers were all having
-narrow escapes.</p>
-
-<p>Young Tapley had just loaded his car with
-wounded when a big shell came shrieking in. Tapley
-threw himself on his face as the shell struck and
-exploded close to his car. The sides of the car were
-blown out and all the wounded were instantly
-killed. White was lying on his face close to him.
-Another car was squarely hit and completely demolished.
-Fortunately no one was in it at the moment.
-Cram, while driving at night, wearing a gas
-mask, drove over a twenty-foot embankment&mdash;he
-rolled out of the car on a dead horse&mdash;he fell into a
-trench on a dead man. A gendarme on horseback,
-shot in the breast by shrapnel, toppled from his horse
-directly in front of Purdy’s car. There was not a
-single car in the Section which was not hit at least
-once. “Red” Day, who had succeeded Pearl as
-mechanician, was kept working night and morning
-and his untiring toil helped to save the Section and
-keep it rolling.</p>
-
-<p>We had been relieved from the run to Houdremont
-and were now centring our efforts on the
-posts as far as Fort Douaumont; and that was worse,
-because the roads were exposed to view most of the
-way. The country was laid absolutely barren and
-along the way, men burrowed holes in the ground
-and lived like rats&mdash;and with them. In the day time
-we might drive along those roads and see scarcely
-a human being, and yet thousands of human beings
-were all about us. As we drove along, rats would
-scurry across the roads. Once I saw a dead rat in
-the middle of the road and it made me pessimistic.
-Dead horses were lying about which long since
-should have been covered over had time permitted.
-Sometimes wounded horses were staggering about
-the road, suffering pitifully and impeding traffic.
-On one of these occasions, our French Lieutenant
-Reymond drove out and with a revolver shot several
-of the wounded horses and then had them
-cleared from the road. Under fire Reymond was
-calm, he was magnificent. Back at Louvois I had
-liked Reymond, but at Verdun I admired him.</p>
-
-<p>Along the roads I sometimes saw big shell holes,
-enormous craters which made me very thoughtful.
-We were under fire day and night, whether on or
-off duty. Overhead, we daily watched the air duels
-of the avions. Sometimes a German plane would
-come across, flying straight, swift and low to attack
-an observation balloon and as it opened fire, we
-would see the man in the observation basket shoot
-straight down through the air, then his parachute
-would open up and perhaps he would land in safety.
-On one occasion I saw a French plane collapse in
-the air and come swirling down like a dead leaf&mdash;down,
-down, crashing to the ground, and I drove
-on not feeling a single sensation. I was dead
-tired and had passed the stage of feeling a thrill
-even of horror.</p>
-
-<p>At night the avions were always overhead, dropping
-bombs&mdash;sometimes a munition plant would be
-hit and explosion after explosion would light the
-sky for several hours. Still we stayed on&mdash;the relief
-did not come.</p>
-
-<p>And while we were voluntarily and willingly, yes
-even very cheerfully, under fire for the cause, it
-was most shocking to read in the papers that disloyalty
-went unpunished back in the United States.
-Our troops Over There are entitled to the assurance
-that it is not safe for anyone at home to stab them
-in the back.</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_17" id="Chap_17"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Seventeen">XVII</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">In the Valley of the Shadow</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">On the morning of September first, after we had
-been at Verdun for a month under fire, as we were
-eating breakfast, three Englishmen walked into our
-dining tent. They were members of Section One,
-English Ambulance Corps. They informed us
-that their Section had been sent up to relieve us.
-We were elated. We invited them to sit down for
-breakfast with us, for we wanted to be decently
-polite and reserved. A little later it turned out they
-had been misinformed. They had merely been sent
-up to assist us. We were dejected. We were to
-stay on, “just three or four days longer.”</p>
-
-<p>The French were going to follow up their success
-of August twentieth with another attack which
-would take place “’most any day” and then we
-would be sent back for rest. The centre of this attack
-was to take place in front of Fort Douaumont,
-and, if anything, it would be harder on us
-than when we were at Haudremont on the twentieth.</p>
-
-<p>The attack took place on the seventh of September
-and while some ground was gained, the success
-was not as decisive as the previous attack.</p>
-
-<p>But the relief did not come for us, we were to
-stay on, “just for two or three days longer,” through
-the counter attack of the Germans.</p>
-
-<p>Personally I was playing out very rapidly. I
-was losing the ability to relax and recuperate when
-off duty. I was losing the ability to sleep&mdash;I was
-reaching the stage of premonitions. I hoped that
-I might last out until relief came. I wanted to
-finish decently. I was afraid of myself&mdash;I was
-afraid I might turn coward&mdash;I was afraid I might
-turn quitter.</p>
-
-<p>Then came a drive that I shall always remember.
-It was during the counter attack of the Germans.
-I shall always remember it, for one reason, because
-I was almost tempted to turn coward and quit.</p>
-
-<p>The wounded were coming in fast at Douaumont,
-both French and German, and all of our cars were
-on duty&mdash;at least all that were able to run. It was
-just about noon when I started, and the sun was
-shining cheerfully enough overhead but it was hell
-on earth. A short distance out I passed one of the
-English cars coming in and the driver shouted to
-me to have my gas mask ready. I confess I had a
-feeling of fear. I had seen the victims of poison
-gas and I had a greater dread of that than I had of
-shells, if such a thing were possible, and besides a
-couple of nights before during a period that I had
-been on constant duty for thirty hours in which time
-I had punctured six tires, had had a slight touch of
-gas and had felt rather ragged ever since. About
-four miles out, I passed one of our cars and the
-driver called to me something about big shells and
-gas. I stopped to call back for more particulars,
-but he was too far back to hear me. I was wavering
-but I drove on. A little further and I could see
-the shells coming in. I could see the gas clouds. I
-stopped my car&mdash;I got out and then I had the hardest
-argument I have ever had with myself. First I
-argued: “It is suicide to go on, I am justified in
-turning back and reporting the road is impassable.”
-Then I argued with myself, “But if I do go on and
-am hit, the agony will be over with in a few minutes,
-but if I turn back, the agony will be with me
-the rest of my life.” So I put on my gas mask
-and drove on.</p>
-
-<p>Approaching the brow of the hill, I saw three of
-our cars drawn up alongside the road. I stopped
-my car directly behind them and walked ahead.
-The engine of one of the cars was still running, but
-the cars were all deserted. At that minute a shell
-struck just at the brow of the hill. The stop had
-undoubtedly saved me. I ran down an embankment
-into a deserted dug-out and there I crouched,
-sweltering in my gas mask. A few minuter later I
-ran out, jumped into my ambulance, passing the
-three deserted cars and drove on, trembling so that
-I could scarcely keep my feet on the right pedals.
-I reached the post at Douaumont and there in the
-entrance was our French Lieutenant Reymond in
-his steel helmet, calm and undisturbed, directing
-and assisting in the loading of the ambulances. He
-quietly and good-naturedly took me to task because
-my boots were not properly laced. I gave him a
-cigarette and lighted one myself. Then I went inside
-the post where tea was being ladled out to the
-stretcher bearers. This steadied me a bit. I went
-out. The place was littered with wounded, mostly
-Germans. Lieutenant Reymond assisted me in
-lifting wounded Germans into the car.</p>
-
-<p>Then I drove back and went off duty. Some time
-in the middle of the night I had a terrible nightmare
-and went through the whole experience over
-again, and in it I dreamed that I had an urgent call
-to go back to the same post. I woke up, but the
-dream had been so vivid that I really thought I had
-received a call. I pulled on my boots and, partly
-dressed, started for my car. Stevenson and “Red”
-Day who were out there informed me there had
-been no call and sent me back to bed. Stevenson
-gave me a drug to make me sleep. Later, I found
-that “Red” Day deliberately fixed my car so it
-would not run in the event of my receiving any more
-imaginary calls in the night.</p>
-
-<p>It was the day following that, as I was sitting on
-the end of my cot about to lie down, a shell struck
-outside and a piece of the shell about the size of an
-inkwell ripped a hole in the tent and struck on my
-pillow. I picked it up while it was still hot, walked
-out and showed it to Lieutenant Reymond and we
-laughed together over the incident. Lieutenant
-Reymond’s laugh was fairly hearty.</p>
-
-<p>On the fifteenth of September, after forty-five
-days and forty-five nights under shell fire day and
-night, we received orders to go on repose. A little
-while later Stevenson packed me in his staff car
-and started me on my way to Paris to see a doctor.</p>
-
-<p>I was not elated&mdash;I was utterly dejected. I had
-wanted to finish strong and I had all but finished
-in the discard. “Take a month off or as long as you
-need, but I want you to come back,” was Steve’s
-kind and cheering parting, as the car pulled down
-the road.</p>
-
-<p>The men in the Section had all been wonderful.
-Lieutenant Reymond had been magnificent, but I
-am sure but for the brainy, watchful, sympathetic
-leadership of William Yorke Stevenson, the Section
-would never have held together those long days
-and nights, in the seething, shrieking, blood-stained
-hell in front of Verdun&mdash;“The valley of the shadow
-of death.”</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_18" id="Chap_18"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Eighteen">XVIII</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">In Paris</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">On leaving the Section, I was feeling too tired
-and dejected to experience any deep regrets that
-I would not be with my friends for the celebration
-which had been planned upon reaching Bar le Duc.
-Also I was feeling a little depressed in starting off
-for Paris broke, penniless, not a franc in my pocket.
-As a matter of fact I had been in that financial condition
-(if such a condition can be called financial)
-for nearly two months, because a cablegram which
-I had sent to the United States the latter part of
-July had not reached its destination. Whether it
-had been lost in the ocean or had been confiscated
-and hypothecated for what it was worth by the
-enemy, I shall never know. Enough to say that I
-was broke.</p>
-
-<p>During those long weary days and nights and
-weeks, I had not possessed the price of a cigarette
-and during that time I had grown to have the firmest
-convictions that anyone who is opposed to sending
-tobacco to the Allies is either most happily
-ignorant of the nerve-racking strain of war or is
-out and out pro-German.</p>
-
-<p>Yet I was not allowed to suffer too much, for my
-friends in the Section, evidently believing that I
-was honest, were very kind to me, so I managed to
-have a smoke with a fair degree of regularity. I
-borrowed two francs from Stockwell with which I
-bought a pipe in which I smoked Ned Townsend’s
-“granulated” or even the terrible French tobacco
-when I thought that Ned Townsend might feel that
-I was imposing on him too much. I was rather
-clumsy at rolling cigarettes, but Frank Farnham
-was very helpful in that respect. He became so
-accustomed to performing this kind service for me
-that all I had to do was to look at him and say,
-“Farney” and out would come his bag of tobacco.</p>
-
-<p>A few days before leaving the Section, I had
-written in to Paris to despatch a second cablegram
-to the United States and I hoped upon reaching
-Paris I would find the essential reply waiting for
-me at the banking house of Morgan-Harjes.</p>
-
-<p>Just as I was about to get into the Staff car to
-start for Paris, it was “Farney” who came up to
-me and handed me twenty francs to see me through
-the journey.</p>
-
-<p>It was midnight when I reached Paris and I was
-completely tired out. I engaged a taxicab and told
-the chauffeur to drive to Henry’s, Number Eleven,
-Rue Volney. Henry’s Hotel had been the semi-official
-headquarters of Section One in Paris practically
-since the war started. Here at least I could
-make myself known.</p>
-
-<p>To be sure, I had some excellent letters to people
-in Paris but I certainty was not going to use them
-to establish credit, and I did not feel up to social
-calls.</p>
-
-<p>Before the war, Henry’s had been something of a
-rendezvous for rich sporting men, those who followed
-the races and the like. Since the war, it was
-still patronized by those who had gone there before
-and also by aviators, ambulanciers, army officers,
-French, English and American. Henry had a transient
-business and he also held a clientèle. When I
-had been there in June, I had seen certain well
-dressed, well groomed young and middle aged men
-drifting in at certain hours. I saw these same faces
-there again in September and also saw them again
-in December. I wondered what their occupations
-might be, either real or ostensible. Almost any day
-between five and six, Henry could be seen shaking
-dice with his clientèle.</p>
-
-<p>Henry was a little short trim fellow with a florid
-face, grey moustache and usually dressed immaculately
-in a frock coat. He wore glasses when he
-took inventory of the cash register. When he took
-inventory of people, he usually squinted his eyes into
-little slits, so that people who were being inventoried
-would scarcely realize that they were being
-noticed. Among foreigners and Parisians, Henry
-was one of the characters of the city. I say “was,”
-because Henry has since passed on to another
-world. When I reached there the hotel was closed
-but a ring on the bell brought the concièrge to the
-door in his pajamas and bath robe. I was shown
-to a room with a bed in it, white pillows, clean sheets&mdash;and
-it was very nice.</p>
-
-<p>I was not long in getting to bed and not much
-longer in getting to sleep, but in my sleep I was
-once more back at Verdun. I could hear the aeroplanes
-whirring overhead&mdash;I could hear the bursting
-shells&mdash;I could see the dead horses on the
-crowded roads, the rats and filth, the desolation of
-the front. Not a very peaceful sleep; and when I
-awoke I felt somewhat confused as I looked over
-toward the windows and saw the heavy curtains
-drawn together. A clock was ticking on the mantel.
-It was nearly nine o’clock. Beside the bed I
-observed a telephone and without raising my head
-from the soft, comfortable, clean white pillow, I
-reached for it. I might be broke, but at least I was
-going to have one good meal to fortify me for the
-day. The office answered the call. “Grapefruit,”
-I said; “soft boiled eggs, toast with butter on it,
-coffee&mdash;and a pack of cigarettes.” I ordered an expensive
-brand of cigarettes, as I was afraid it might
-hurt my credit to call for cheap ones. Then I closed
-my eyes and dozed peacefully.</p>
-
-<p>A little later in the morning, I met Henry. We
-sat down on the sofa at the foot of the stairs, and I
-told him Ned Townsend, Stevenson and the other
-men in the Section had sent him their best regards.
-Then I told him I was broke but added quickly
-that I expected a cablegram any day&mdash;perhaps to-day.
-Henry was very nice and polite about it and
-told me not to worry.</p>
-
-<p>When I went out of the hotel, I intended to go
-over to the offices of Morgan-Harjes and learn
-whether a reply had come to my second cablegram,
-but I really did not feel strong enough to stand any
-unfavorable news. A hack driver coming along
-Rue Volney cracked his whip and I almost fell on
-the pavement. My nerves seemed to be temporarily
-shattered. I still had a few francs left that “Farney”
-had given me, so I called a taxi-cab and drove
-to 21 Rue Reynouard, the headquarters of the
-American Field Service. Dr. Lines looked me over
-and informed me that my heart was in bad condition
-and that I needed a complete rest. He suggested
-sending me out to a convalescent hospital in
-the country, but I did not feel well enough to go to
-a hospital&mdash;I did not want to see the inside of a
-hospital and&mdash;besides, I was waiting for a cablegram
-from the States. Later in the day I pulled
-myself together and went down Boulevard Haussmann
-to the offices of Morgan-Harjes. About that
-place I remembered having written to my partner
-in the banking business, that while their furniture
-is not as handsome as ours, they seemed to have more
-customers.</p>
-
-<p>At Morgan-Harjes there was no news for me.</p>
-
-<p>I went back to Henry’s and retired for the afternoon.
-I arose for supper, which I had in the café&mdash;and
-signed for it; a short walk as far as the Café
-de la Paix, back to Henry’s and to bed, back to
-sleep, back to Verdun&mdash;back to the shrieking shells,
-the whirr of the aeroplanes, the rats, and the crowded,
-bloodstained roads.</p>
-
-<p>Waking the next morning, I reached for the
-telephone, breakfasted in bed and dozed until noon,
-then walked over to Morgan-Harjes.</p>
-
-<p>No news&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>After a fashion I have learned to study expression
-in faces; and on the days immediately following,
-when I got out of bed and went to Morgan-Harjes,
-I could tell by the expression of the clerk’s
-face before he spoke to me that there was no news.
-I also noticed by the expression on Henry’s face
-that I should begin to worry. He was not wearing
-his glasses but he was squinting his eyes.</p>
-
-<p>I spent most of my time in bed. I needed the rest.
-The crowds, the boulevards, the early evening café
-life, the movies, the Follies&mdash;none of these had any
-allurement for me. I think it was on the fifth day
-that I ran into my poet friend young Bob Hillyer
-of Harvard and South Orange, New Jersey. He
-too had been out to the front with an Ambulance
-Section and was now on his way back to Cambridge,
-Massachusetts, where he was going to accept a professorship
-in the university which has made that
-town fairly famous.</p>
-
-<p>I was very glad to see Bob Hillyer again in spite
-of the fact that he told me I looked perfectly terrible
-and should really return to the States and not
-think of going back to the front. He asked me to
-dinner with himself and a friend of his. I protested,
-mildly suggesting that they take dinner
-with me at Henry’s, but the stronger will prevailed
-and the three of us had dinner together at a little
-quiet outdoor café underneath the awnings.</p>
-
-<p>They walked back to Henry’s with me, where my
-pride and hospitality got the better of my judgment.</p>
-
-<p>Wouldn’t they come in and have a little cordial
-before going along?</p>
-
-<p>Certainly!</p>
-
-<p>We went inside&mdash;the cordials were ordered&mdash;I
-laid down three francs.</p>
-
-<p>“Four francs, fifty, Mr. Rice,” said George, who
-had come to know me by name from having served
-me my breakfast in bed.</p>
-
-<p>I picked up the three francs, put them in my
-pocket and said, “Please put it on my bill, George.”
-It is really terrible to be apparently well-to-do and
-not have any money to do it with.</p>
-
-<p>Hillyer and his friend said “Good-night,” and I
-promptly went to bed. It was a little past midnight
-I think and I had been fast asleep for some time,
-back at Verdun with the bursting shells and scurrying
-and scurrilous rats, when I suddenly became
-conscious of the fact that a firm hand was resting on
-each one of my shoulders. I awoke with a start and
-there stood Ned Townsend smiling broadly.</p>
-
-<p>“Get up,” he said. “Don’t you know it is your
-turn out to post?” At the foot of the bed stood
-“Red” Day. They had just reached Paris and informed
-me they had come on from the front to cheer
-me up a bit. “Farney” was with them too.</p>
-
-<p>Why say I was glad to see them all? They sat
-on the side of the bed and told me about the banquet
-at Bar le Duc and Ned told me that “Red”
-and “Farney” were slated for the Croix de Guerre,
-which was very good news.</p>
-
-<p>Townsend had received the Croix de Guerre a
-long time before.</p>
-
-<p>We had late breakfast together and they paid for
-it and then I went around to Morgan-Harjes. I
-read the expression on the clerk’s face as I stepped
-up to the window. When I left, I discovered there
-was a spring to my step which had been absent on
-the previous days.</p>
-
-<p>I walked rapidly back to Henry’s and into the
-hotel. Henry was in the hallway at the foot of the
-stairs. As he saw me, I observed the expression on
-his face&mdash;he was not wearing his glasses but his eyes
-were squinted into little slits. I knew what was
-coming as he said he would like to speak to me. I
-cheerfully replied: “It is all right, the cablegram
-has come.”</p>
-
-<p>When I saw Ned Townsend, “Red” Day and
-“Farney,” I told them they were to have supper at
-a certain quiet little café of mine, opposite the “Chinese
-Umbrella.”</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_19" id="Chap_19"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Nineteen">XIX</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Aillianville</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">Though my leave had not expired, I decided to
-return to the front with Townsend, “Red” Day and
-“Farney.” The Section had moved down into Lorraine,
-in the foot hills of the Vosges, the land of
-Joan of Arc. We found our Section in the town of
-Aillianville. There a barn had been converted into
-a dining room and up in the loft some of the men
-had placed their cots, while others were billeted in
-the homes of the townspeople&mdash;plain but wonderfully
-kindhearted peasant folks whose dress was in
-keeping with the surroundings and who splashed
-around the muddy streets in their wooden sabots&mdash;and
-the streets were often muddy, for it rained a
-great deal of the time. But in spite of frequent
-rains it was none the less delightful here. It was a
-most pleasant contrast to the desolation in front
-of Verdun&mdash;to see unmolested forests, the foliage
-turning to autumn colors&mdash;to see cows grazing in
-the fields&mdash;sometimes a dog on a frolic, barking at
-their heels&mdash;to see peasant women sitting in the
-fields with their knitting and keeping a watchful
-eye on the cattle&mdash;and the war not so very many
-miles away.</p>
-
-<p>Ned Townsend and I lost no time in finding quarters
-in the home of a peasant. The house, which
-could not have been built later than the seventeenth
-century, had two rooms and a garret. One
-room with open fire place served as a kitchen, living
-room and bedroom all combined. A bed was built
-in the wall and during the day was hidden by curtains.
-Here slept the patron Tourgant and his
-wife. Townsend and I took the other room, which
-had two beds in it. One of the window panes was
-gone, but this was none the less luxury. Our work
-was light and we enjoyed the life to the fullest extent.
-We could retire at night with a sense of security
-that we were not likely to be disturbed before
-morning. The house stood under the shadow
-of an ancient church and if we did lie awake, we
-could hear the clock in the steeple chiming off the
-quarter hours. It was sometimes pleasant to awaken
-in the middle of the night to hear the clock striking
-the hour and then to fall asleep again with the
-thought that there were some hours left for undisturbed
-rest.</p>
-
-<p>It was usually Madame Tourgant, with wrinkled
-face, bronzed like a gipsy, who called us in the
-morning and set a cup of hot coffee by our beds.
-Sometimes when we came in late, chilled and wet
-with the rain, Monsieur Tourgant would get out of
-bed, pull on a few clothes, kick the dying embers of
-the faggots on the hearth into life and heat a cup of
-coffee for us. And so if there was some work to
-do, there was time for rest and relaxation.</p>
-
-<p>In this country, it had once been the sport of
-kings to hunt the wild boar. Now the kings were
-otherwise engaged, but it was still the sport of peasants
-and poilus. Kings do not control all the sport
-there is&mdash;especially now.</p>
-
-<p>One night we went out on a wild boar hunt, skirting
-the edge of a thick forest, not far from Aillianville
-down in the direction of the ancient town of
-Grand. Midnight, our hunt being unsuccessful, we
-sat down on the ground in the moonlight and enjoyed
-the feast which we had brought with us. We
-did not have another opportunity to go boar hunting
-because of the rains, which caused Ned Townsend&mdash;or
-was it “Red” Day?&mdash;to complain that the ground
-was too wet to sit on.</p>
-
-<p>But if we had been unsuccessful on our hunt, our
-patron M. Tourgant fared better, bringing one in a
-couple of days later and the following night we were
-invited to sit around the open fireplace while Madame
-Tourgant put slices of it to sizzling over the
-faggots on the open fireplace. She prepared other
-things for the supper too. Some French soldiers
-that we knew were with us and I am sure ’most any
-king would have relinquished his crown for a night,
-to have sat under those old blackened rafters and
-enjoyed the sport of ordinary mortals.</p>
-
-<p>Sometimes in Aillianville we would drop into the
-little “Cheval Blanc Café” to write letters or sit up
-at the open log fireplace with Madame Julie and her
-husband the patron and while drying our feet which
-were usually wet, read the romances of Alexandre
-Dumas and the like; sometimes the butcher maidens
-from the neighboring town of Grand would
-come driving along with their butcher wagon and
-from them we would procure a slice of ham or bacon
-which Madame Julie would cook for us with an
-omelette. Sometimes in the early evening, we
-played dominoes in the “Cheval Blanc” for stakes
-which were not ruinous. In the early evening
-Madame Julie’s niece Marie might drop in to help
-her with the dishes.</p>
-
-<p>Marie was a cripple girl, but she was none the less
-the queen of all Aillianville. Her father owned his
-own comfortable little home and was the possessor
-of more cows than anyone else in the town. Marie’s
-cheeks were bronzed from the sun while watching
-her father’s cows. Her teeth shone white when she
-smiled. She had a noble brow and a regal face.
-Given the opportunity of two or three years in a
-fashionable finishing school, provided she did not become
-too highly educated, Marie could have been
-transplanted to Madison Avenue or Rittenhouse
-Square and scored a decided hit. I have it from one
-who lives not far from Madison Avenue and confirmed
-by one who lives not far from Rittenhouse
-Square. Marie will probably marry a poilu returning
-from the war with one arm and a Croix de
-Guerre and live happily ever after in the peaceful
-town of Aillianville.</p>
-
-<p>Sometimes sitting by the log fire in the “Cheval
-Blanc,” we would hear the clank of wooden sabots
-on the stone pavement outside, the door would open
-and old Jacques, the blacksmith of rugged voice and
-jet black beard, would bluster in for his bottle of
-wine.</p>
-
-<p>We lived with the peasants and loved them. They
-were kind, polite, chivalrous&mdash;they were real.</p>
-
-<p>On occasion, there was music in the evening in the
-“Lion d’Or Café” further down the street. One
-night, toward the end of October, we held a dance
-in the “Lion d’Or.” A guitar and a mandolin furnished
-the music. The villagers came around in
-their wooden sabots. French soldiers in their blue
-uniforms were there. Back in the shadow of a corner,
-a group of officers sat enjoying the scene, no
-doubt wishing they might take an active part. In
-the course of the evening, a young fellow was lifted
-on a table and sang “Madelon,” a song popular with
-the French just then.</p>
-
-<p>It was pretty close to midnight when a message
-came in that one of our cars had broken down along
-the road about ten miles out. A relief party was
-organized and the dance came to an end.</p>
-
-<p>It had been snowing in the late afternoon and
-evening. When we went out of the Lion d’Or the
-moon was breaking through the clouds, and the
-streets, tile roofs of the houses and the church
-steeples were white with snow.</p>
-
-<p>Not one of us who was not a little sad a few days
-later on receiving orders to move from the town of
-Aillianville to the ancient town of Beaufromont,
-built on the side of a steep hill. We were glad that
-the villagers also expressed sorrow at the parting.
-Some of those plain peasant women were kind
-enough to weep a little as they smilingly waved “Au
-’voir” to us.</p>
-
-<p>Our old patron, the boar hunter Tourgant, was
-so anxious to bid us a fitting farewell when we
-started in the early morning that he stayed up most
-of the night. When we moved out of the town he
-was asleep in the blacksmith shop of old Jacques of
-rugged voice and jet black beard.</p>
-
-<p>As we drew up in line outside the village, someone
-commemorated the departure in verse:</p>
-
-<div class="poem-container">
- <div class="poem">
- <div class="i0">Farewell, my Aillianville, in fair Lorraine,</div>
- <div class="i0">Town where sun shines through the rain,</div>
- <div class="i0">The “Cheval Blanc,” the “Lion d’Or,”</div>
- <div class="i0">“Au ’voir,” farewell forever more.</div>
- <div class="i0">I was with you when woods were brown,</div>
- <div class="i0">When boars were hunted on the down,</div>
- <div class="i0">When log fire crackled on the hearth</div>
- <div class="i0">And in the evening there was mirth</div>
- <div class="i0">And music in the town I love so well,</div>
- <div class="i0">Oh, Aillianville, au ’voir, farewell.</div>
- </div><!--end poem-->
-</div><!--end container-->
-
-<p>During our stay in Aillianville, Section One,
-American Field Service Volunteers, was taken over
-by the American army and there ceased to be any
-volunteer ambulance service. My work was done,
-but the Section being short of men I agreed to stay
-on indefinitely until new men came on.</p>
-
-<p>One day, to be exact, Thanksgiving morning, outside
-the town of Neufchateau, on the road to Nancy,
-I saw some French troops drawn up on review. A
-band was playing at their head. By a strange coincidence
-I had heard that same band playing once
-before back in Houdainville as those same troops
-were advancing for the big offensive in front of
-Verdun.</p>
-
-<p>On this Thanksgiving morning, the review being
-over, the men stacked arms and walked about the
-field. One of the soldiers walked over to where I
-was talking with some friends. He wore a steel
-helmet, but underneath the visor I could see a scar
-across his forehead and there was a scar on his cheek.
-He asked me if I remembered him and I was obliged
-to confess that I did not. He then informed me
-that on September second, in front of Douaumont,
-when he had received these two scars, I had carried
-him back. No wonder I had not recognized him.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px">
- <img src="images/i_117.jpg"
- width="486" height="320"
- alt="Illustration: Rice and Purdy"
- />
- <p class="caption">Rice &emsp; Purdy<br />In Front of Verdun</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Then as we stood there I heard another band
-playing in the distance. It grew nearer and nearer
-till at last I saw an American flag rising over the
-brow of the hill and back of it swinging along the
-road four thousand men in khaki.</p>
-
-<p>I confess I felt a thrill!</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_20" id="Chap_20"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Twenty">XX</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Vive l’Amérique! Vive la France!</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">The delightful days at Aillianville will always
-stand out in my memory in marked contrast with
-the forty-five days and forty-five long nights that
-we spent before Verdun. I shall always remember
-a night in a dug-out in front of Verdun toward the
-end of our long siege. The place was dimly lighted.
-At one end was a table on which there was a telephone.
-A French officer sat there writing reports
-and answering telephone calls. “’Allo! ’Allo!” he
-would say, taking down the receiver. Along the
-wall was a wooden bench on which sat two weary
-poilus, their heads nodding under their steel helmets.
-On the floor, a wounded soldier lay on a
-stretcher. Outside I could hear the firing of the
-guns, the trampling of horses, the straining and
-groaning of the heavy munition trucks pulling up
-the grade.</p>
-
-<p>I was very tired, in fact I had reached the stage
-of premonitions. I felt that luck had been with me
-just as long as might be expected and in the fagged,
-depressed condition of my brain I felt quite certain
-that my next time out would be my last. I have
-seen others pass through the same stage when they
-have been worn out. I suppose Alan Seeger must
-have felt like that when he wrote his wonderful
-poem “I have a rendezvous with Death.”</p>
-
-<p>As I sat there waiting for my turn to go out and
-expecting a call each time the telephone rang, I
-got to thinking of my early impressions upon reaching
-France. It seemed a long time since I had
-landed in France. Then I got to thinking of my
-later impressions after coming to the Front. To
-keep my mind from dwelling on what was happening
-outside, where I must soon go, I took some
-scraps of paper and wrote a brief summary of my
-impressions, supposing that it might be the last
-words I would write. I had just finished writing
-when the telephone rang. The officer took down
-the receiver, “’Allo! ’Allo! San Fein!” The officer
-turned to me. It was my turn out. I put the
-scraps of paper in my pocket, slipped into my heavy
-coat, put on my steel helmet, shook hands with the
-officer and went out.</p>
-
-<p>It was a short run but a bad one, shells were arriving
-and shells were departing. I found an Abri
-had been squarely hit and badly torn up. I got
-four wounded, who were in very bad condition. I
-drove back and got through. My premonitions
-were not realized. It was sunrise when I drove
-away from the hospital and my work for the night
-was over. Coming down the road I met Holt. He
-told me he was having trouble with his car and he
-asked me to wait while he made some repair. I
-drew up alongside the road, put my head down on
-the steering wheel and went to sleep. A few minutes
-later Holt woke me up and we drove on together.
-A short while later, over hot coffee, I confessed
-to Holt the premonitions I had the night before.
-And then he confessed that he had had them,
-too. Then I read to him what I had written:</p>
-
-<p>“I gained my first impression of France while
-sailing up the broad Gironde River, flanked by its
-stately trees, its green and rolling fields, its Catholic
-spires, its old châteaux and ancient monasteries.
-I came on to Paris. I saw and admired that magnificent
-city which stoically smiles through sorrow. I
-stood at the tomb of Napoleon but I did not shed a
-tear; I sat in Nôtre Dame Cathedral on a Sabbath
-afternoon, and there I saw women with faces sad
-but brave, kneeling in prayer; I heard the organ’s
-sacred notes; perhaps I shed a tear, why should I
-say? I sat at one of the many crowded tables in
-front of the famous Café de la Paix and there I
-watched the Congress of the Armies of the Allied
-Nations, sipping drinks, smoking cigarettes, passing
-the time of day. I drove up the sloping, tree lined
-Champs Elysées at sunset and through the Arch
-of Triumph. At its crest I saw the tinted sky
-and clouds and tops of trees and as I drove on
-through the peaceful groves of the Bois du Boulogne
-by moonlight I thought that though I loved
-my native land I would love to live in France.</p>
-
-<p>“Then I came on out to the battle front. I passed
-through desolate villages, past desecrated cathedrals;
-I saw deserted homes and shell wrecked
-towns. I heard the thunder and roar of many guns,
-I heard the crash of avion bombs, I heard the shriek,
-the whistle, the moan of shells. I saw the horror
-and havoc that these things wrought, the wounded,
-the dying, the countless dead. But through all the
-terrors of the days and nights I saw the noble Nation,
-fatigued, yet with Christlike resignation suffering
-and bleeding so that others might live to enjoy
-an honorable repose. And I thought that the prayer
-of this noble Nation must be the prayer of Christ:
-‘O Lord, forgive them, for they know not what
-they do!’ And as I saw these things I thought that
-though I loved my Country, the land of Chance,
-though I loved my own Flag, I should be willing to
-die for France, but it has not thus far been willed
-and I am glad. I am glad to go on living and loving
-France. She is our kin. Her blood is on our
-soil, our blood on hers. She is our sister country.</p>
-
-<p>“Vive l’Amérique! Vive la France!”</p>
-
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter"><a name="Chap_21" id="Chap_21"></a>
-<h3 class="p4 h3head"><abbr title="Twenty-One">XXI</abbr></h3>
-
-<h4 class="p2 h4head">Afterthoughts</h4>
-
-<p class="p2">So now my story is told and as I close the pages
-of the book I pause to think and wonder if ever
-again I shall see France. I wonder if again I shall
-walk along the quays of the River Seine or up the
-sloping tree-lined Champs Elysées, or wander with
-friends around to the Café de la Paix, or if again I
-shall pass through the desolate villages at the front
-and hear the shrieking shells, the aeroplanes overhead
-singing in the night “Guerre, guerre, guerre,”
-their monotonous song of death. I wonder if again
-I shall see those noble, weary people of our Sister
-Country fighting bravely against the Iron Hand;
-whether I shall go back to see our own flag being
-carried on to final victory; and rejoice that America
-at last has ridden into the field full armed, the
-Savior of France, as was once the Maid of Orleans.</p>
-
-<p>I wonder if I shall resist or follow that invisible
-finger beckoning to me&mdash;whether I shall listen to
-that voice whispering and saying to me, “Come
-back”?</p>
-
-<p>I wonder if again I shall see the towers of Rheims
-Cathedral or stand upon the hill beside the resting
-place of Norton?</p>
-
-<p>I wonder if again some day I shall walk into the
-peaceful town of Aillianville and sit down by the
-crackling fire and visit my friend Tourgant, the
-boar hunter, and his wife; whether I shall some
-evening step in the “Cheval Blanc” and to Madame
-Julie and the patron, say, as I have said before:
-“Bon soir, Madame, bon soir, Monsieur”; whether
-sometime I shall sit with Marie and her husband,
-who will wear the Croix de Guerre upon his breast,
-and with them talk about the war. I wonder if I
-shall again go in the “Lion d’Or,” and, in happy
-memory, hear the music as I did before, and if perhaps
-I shall see again my friends of Section One
-in France?</p>
-
-<p>I wonder if I shall answer that voice which
-whispers to me as I walk along the crowded streets,
-which whispers as I lie awake at night, which whispers
-in my sleep and says to me&mdash;“Come back.”</p>
-
-<p class="p4 center">FINIS</p>
-
- <div lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">
- <p class="p4 footnote center"> <a name="footnote_1" id="footnote_1"></a>
- <a href="#fnanchor_1"><span class="muchsmaller">[1]</span></a>
- Extrait de l’Ordre <abbr title="Nombre">No.</abbr> 238 du 19 Septembre, 1917<br />
- Portant Citation d l’Ordre de la Division</p>
- <p class="pneg footnote">69ᵉ Division d’Infanterie</p>
- <p class="pneg footnote">Etat-Major-1ᵉʳ Bureau</p>
-
- <p class="footnote">Le Général Monroe, Commandant le 69ᵉ Division d’Infanterie,
- cite à l’Ordre de la Division, les militaires dont les noms
- suivent; RICE, Philip S., Conducteur à la Section Sanitaire
- Americaine, 1 (20 Escad. T. E. M.):</p>
-
- <p class="footnote">A toujours donné l’exemple du plus grand courage et de
- devouement dans les circonstances les plus penibles lors des
- evacuations des blessés pendant les attaques d’Aout et
- Septembre, 1917, devant VERDUN.</p>
- <p class="pneg r3 small">Le Général Commandant la 69ᵉ A. T.</p>
- <p class="pneg r5 small">Signe: Monroe.</p>
- <p class="pneg footnote unindent">Extrait certifie conformé<br />
- A. G. le 29 Septembre 1917<br />
- Le Chepd Etat-Major.<br />
- &emsp;EDMOND CHAPILLIN,<br />
- &emsp;&emsp;69ᵉ Division D’Infanterie<br />
- &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;Etat-Major.</p>
- </div><!--end french-->
-
- <p class="p2 footnote"> <a name="footnote_2" id="footnote_2"></a>
- <a href="#fnanchor_2"><span class="muchsmaller">[2]</span></a>
- Stuart Walcott, Princeton 1917, son of Secretary Walcott
- of the Smithsonian Institution. The Princeton University
- Press has published his letters, under the title “Above the
- French Lines.” Walcott was killed in combat, December, 1917.</p>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h4 class="h4head">Transcriber’s Note:</h4>
-
-<p>Footnotes were renumbered sequentially and were moved to the
-end of the book. Dialect, obsolete words, misspellings, and
-typographical mistakes were left unchanged.</p>
-</div><!--end chapter-->
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An American Crusader at Verdun, by
-Philip Sidney Rice
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