diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/63454-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/63454-0.txt | 3141 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 3141 deletions
diff --git a/old/63454-0.txt b/old/63454-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e53078a..0000000 --- a/old/63454-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3141 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Sock Toys, by John M. Clapper - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: How to Make Sock Toys - A Pack-O-Fun Publication - -Author: John M. Clapper - -Release Date: October 14, 2020 [EBook #63454] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE SOCK TOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - How to Make - SOCK TOYS - - - _for_ - • BAZAARS - • SHUT-INS - • GIFTS - • PROFIT - _and_ - • FUN - - OVER 50 TOYS TO MAKE - - $1 - - A _PACK-O-FUN_® PUBLICATION - - -All designs in this book may be used to make sock toys for gifts or for -sale by individuals or organizations. It is not necessary to secure -permission from the publisher. - -However, no part of the text or any design illustrations may be -reproduced by any printing process without the permission of the -publisher, with the exception of brief quotations used for reviews in -other publications. - - Copyright 1958 - Pack-O-Fun - 741 Devon Avenue - Park Ridge, Illinois - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - -To a Monkey.... -Whereby This Tale Is Hung - - -This book is dedicated to a monkey, a whimsical little fellow whose body -is a sock and whose heart is hidden somewhere in cotton stuffing. During -the summer and early fall of 1955 several of our friends and readers of -Pack-O-Fun magazine wrote to us about him. We learned that instructions -on how to make him could be had from the Nelson Knitting Company of -Rockford, Illinois. We received permission to reprint the instructions -and thus our new friend, the Red Heel Sock Monkey, made his appearance -in the November 1955 issue of Pack-O-Fun. - -We expected a mild response and were quite unprepared for the deluge of -mail that poured into our office and the Nelson Knitting Company. We had -no idea that so many people were interested in making a toy monkey out -of a few socks. The requests kept coming in long after our supply of -this issue was exhausted and we had to reprint the instructions as a -separate folder to keep from disappointing readers all over the country. - -We began to think in terms of other sock toys but there were so many -other things to do that the idea was shelved for just a “little while.” -Like so many other “little whiles” this one stretched into weeks and -then months. Our little friend, the Red Heel Sock Monkey, sat in lonely -splendor. - -Several months ago Michelle Graff joined our staff as an artist. Much to -our delight we learned that she was quite adept at creating and making -all kinds of stuffed toys. Within a short time the Red Heel Sock Monkey -was no longer lonely. He had several friends to play with after we had -turned off the lights and left the office. - -One of his most constant playmates was a roguish Sock Elephant. We -decided to use this packed pachyderm in some of our ads in other -magazines and once again the response was greater than we had dared -expect. That settled it. We decided to change a “little while” into -“now” and publish this book. - -We have used the Nelson Red Heel socks for most of the animals, dolls, -puppets and novelties in this book for many reasons. One very good -reason is that the red heel lends itself to the creation of lovable -toys. The brown body gives the feeling of warmth that a stuffed toy must -have and the white ribbing and toes provide material for faces, feet, -hands, etc. - -Another good reason is that the Nelson Red Heel socks are quite -inexpensive, selling for about 30c a pair and even less in lots of one -dozen or more. These prices vary somewhat throughout the country. That -brings us to our third good reason. They are nationally sold and can be -found in many variety, dry goods and chain stores. They can also be -ordered through many mail order houses. - -All you need are some socks, scrap materials for stuffing and clothing -plus a steady eye to thread a needle. The instructions have been written -as simply and made as complete as possible. Pick out your toys, thread -your needle and start. And, to make it even more fun, vary the features, -the trimmings and clothes to bring out your own creative abilities and -personal touches. - - {Edna N. Clapper} - Edna N. Clapper - - - - - TABLE OF CONTENTS - - - To a Monkey 2 - SOCK ANIMALS - Red Heel Monkey 5 - Elephant 7 - Teddy Bear and Daschund 8 - Polar Bear and Piggy 9 - Donkey and Pony 10 - Kitten and Puppy 11 - Bunny 13 - Squirrel, Chipmunk and Begging Dog 14 - Kangaroo and Baby Puppet Kangaroo 15 - SOCK DOLLS - Scrappy 17 - Doll Instructions 19 - Girl Doll and Pixie 20 - Soldier and Engineer 21 - Dutch Girl and Scotch Lass 22 - Mexican Boy and Chinese Boy 23 - Eskimo Boy and Hula Girl 24 - Cowboy and Indian 25 - Red Riding Hood and Robin Hood 26 - Santa Claus and Clown 27 - CLOTHING AND SPECIAL EFFECTS - Jackets and Aprons 28 - Pants and Skirts 29 - Shoes and Boots 30 - Hats, Caps and Hoods 31 - Hair and Facial Expressions 32 - Tips and Tricks 33 - FINGER PUPPETS - Witch 35 - Katie and Jamie 36 - Pirate and Indian 37 - Lion and Billy Goat 38 - ARM PUPPETS - Crocodile and Variations 39 - Clown and Ringmaster 40 - PUPPET SKIT AND CHARACTERS - Skit—Phineas Rides Again 41-42 - Susie Starfish and Phineas Fish 42 - Clem Clam, Sheriff Sam Sponge, Oily Oliver Octopus and Louie - the Lobster 43 - SOCK NOVELTIES - Penguin and Duck 45 - Double Dolls 46 - Owl Pillow and Humpty Dumpty 47 - Hobby Horse and Weenie Doll 48 - - Printed in the U.S.A. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR MONKEY - - - [Illustration: Step 1] - -Turn sock inside out. Start 3″ from white heel and sew two seams ½″ -apart and across end of the rib. - - [Illustration: Step 2] - -Cut sock between seams to within 1½″ of white heel. This leaves opening -for stuffing. - - [Illustration: Step 3] - -Turn sock right side out. Stuff with one hand and mold shape to suit -with other. - - [Illustration: Step 4] - -Sew up opening from top to bottom so that legs are spread apart and not -pulled together. - - [Illustration: Step 5] - -To shape head, tie loosely at neck with ribbon. For a more floppy head -tie ribbon tighter. - - [Illustration: Step 6] - -For feet, bend legs into L-shape for desired foot length and sew crease -with strong white thread. - - - - - RED HEEL MONKEY - - -SOCK NO. 2 - -CAP: Cut off toe of the sock, leaving ½″ of brown to roll for a trim. - -TAIL: Cut a 1″ strip the entire length of the front of the sock. Seam -and stuff. - -MOUTH: Cut the heel from the sock, leaving a brown edge around the -white. Fasten on lower part of face, whipping around the bottom; stuff -and finish sewing around top. The mouth can be improved by a running -stitch of either black or white across the middle. - -ARMS: Cut the remaining upper part of the sock into two pieces. Seam and -stuff. - -EARS: Cut the ears from the remaining brown part of the sole of the -sock. - -EYES: The eyes can be made either by sewing on buttons or by -embroidering them with black thread. In this same operation a nose can -be indicated by two small embroidered marks. - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - -There are many variations from this basic pattern. Decorations can be -either pom poms, yarn or bells. Sometimes a fez is used for a cap. -Jackets and skirts are also used for clothing the monkey. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 7-15 - - - [Illustration: Step 1] - -Turn sock inside out. Cut off most of the rib, leaving about 1″ for -white feet. - - [Illustration: Step 2] - -Start 3″ from heel and sew two seams, ⅛″ each side of center line and -across end of rib. - - [Illustration: Step 3] - -Cut between seams and about 1″ into body to make opening for stuffing. -Turn sock right side out. - - [Illustration: Step 4] - -Insert ovals of cardboard or wood to shape feet. Stuff legs and rest of -sock nice and plump. - - [Illustration: Step 5] - -Sew up opening in body to bring legs together and to prevent them from -bowing out. - - [Illustration: Step 6] - -To shape head, tie a ribbon loosely around neck. Do not tie tightly as -head will wobble. - - - - - ELEPHANT - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -FORELEGS: Measure and cut forelegs from second sock so that body stands -level—about 5″. Turn inside out, seam along one side and across foot. -Turn right side out, insert stiff ovals in feet, stuff and stitch to -body (Figure 1). - -MOUTH: Cut off complete heel. Stuff lightly and sew to head. Stitch -across center to shape mouth (Figure 2). - -TRUNK: Use an 8″ strip of sock, tapering from 6″ to 1″. Seam wrong side -out, turn, stuff and insert wire. (See tips on wiring, page 33.) Sew to -head above mouth. Insert pipe cleaner tusks (Figure 3). - -EARS: For each ear cut two pieces from sock (Figure 4). Seam and turn -right side out. Sew on level with highest point of trunk. - -EYES: Sew on round or oblong buttons set apart. Embroider eyes for small -children. - -TAIL: Make a short roll of material and sew in place. - -TRIM: Sew on a fringed or tasselled “blanket” of bright material. Rick -rack, little bells, ribbons or beads will give a more circusy -appearance. - - - - - TEDDY BEAR - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -For the body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions for the monkey -on page 5, but leave only 1″ of white at the ends of the legs and stuff -plumper. - -ARMS OR FORELEGS: See instructions for the monkey on page 5, leaving -only 1″ of white and stuffing plumper. - -NOSE: Cut toe from second sock. Stuff lightly and sew to the front of -the head (Figure 1). Pull the head down to the chest and stitch securely -(Figure 2). - -FEATURES: Embroider a solid V-shaped nose in black yarn. Make three long -stitches with brown yarn to form upper lip and mouth. Sew on two round -brown buttons for eyes, spaced well apart (Figure 3). - -EARS: Cut four ear pieces from sock. Sew two together, leaving an -opening to turn. Turn and stitch to side of head, pleating the front -half to incline ear forward. Repeat with the other ear (Figure 4). - -TRIM: Tie a bow of 1″ wide bright ribbon around neck. Or make Mr. Teddy -Bear a soldier, engineer, cowboy or any other colorful character by -using the doll costumes shown in this book. - - - - - DACHSHUND - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7, but -stretch the body as long as you can as you stuff and make legs 2″ long -instead of 5″. - -FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7, but make 2″ long. - -NOSE: Cut toe from sock and sew into a point on the wrong side (Figure -1). Turn and stuff lightly. Sew to front of head with seams on the top -and bottom. - -TAIL: From sock cut a strip 3″ long, 1″ wide and sew into a tube. Stitch -to body. - -EARS: Cut four as shown (Figure 2). Seam, leaving an opening to turn. -Sew unstuffed ears to sides of head, pushing the ears up a little for -correct angle. Sew to hold in place. - -FEATURES: Make two stitches in black yarn (Figure 3) where eyes will be. -Sew a round dark button inside each. Embroider a solid V-shape nose in -brown yarn (Figure 4) and add a red felt tongue below mouth (Figure 5). - -TRIM: Fasten a narrow strip of red leatherette around neck. Glue sequins -to this collar or paint little gold dots to resemble studs. For greater -realism, an inexpensive collar may be used. - - - - - POLAR BEAR - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Use white athletic socks. For body (Sock No. 1) follow basic -instructions on page 7, but make legs about 4″ long. - -FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7. - -NOSE: Cut toe from sock, turn inside out and sew into a point (Figure -1). Turn and stuff. Sew to the front of the head, pulling it into shape. -(Polar bears have longer snouts than other types of bears.) - -TAIL: Roll a 1″ square of sock into a tiny tail and sew to body. - -EARS: Cut two ears from sock, and two from pink felt, petal-shaped -(Figure 2). Sew sock and felt pieces together leaving an opening for -turning. Turn right side out and stitch to head, about 2″ apart. Pleat -the felt side (facing front of head) as you stitch. - -FEATURES: Embroider a solid V-shaped nose with black yarn, using three -stitches for upper lip and mouth (Figure 3). For eyes, use small white -buttons sewn over brown discs. - -TRIM: Fasten a narrow strip of felt around neck, decorate with beads and -attach a chain or cord. Or, use black leatherette to make a harness -(Figure 4). - - - - - PIGGY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7. - -FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7. - -NOSE: Cut toe from sock, insert a small circle of cardboard and stuff -(Figure 1). This makes the snout. Sew to front of head. - -TAIL: Roll a 4″ strip of sock into a tube shape and insert a length of -wire (see page 33 for tips on wiring). Sew closed and pull one end into -a point (Figure 2). Sew the other end to body and curl the tail round -finger to get corkscrew effect. - -EARS: Cut four ears from sock as shown (Figure 3). Sew two together, -turn and sew to side of head. Repeat for other ear. - -FEATURES: Cut a pink felt nose (Figure 4) and stitch to front of snout. -Embroider two stitches for the mouth lines (Figure 5). Since Piggy’s -eyes are slits, exaggerate them for more expression. Embroider wide -ovals in brown yarn, adding small brown buttons in the middle. Add a few -eyelashes. - -FEET: Make a stitch in the middle of each foot and pull tight to form -trotters (Figure 6). - - - - - DONKEY ’N’ PONY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - - [Illustration: Fig. 7 · Fig. 8] - - -SOCK NO. 1 - -Follow basic instructions on page 7 for Steps 1, 2 and 3. To shape neck -and head, sew a seam tapering from about the middle of the foot to about -the middle of the toe. (See Figure 1, above.) Then, turn sock right side -out, stuff and sew as shown in Steps 4 and 5 on page 7. This will form -the neck. Do not tie, as head is made from separate piece. - - -SOCK NO. 2 - -FORELEGS: See instructions for Elephant on page 7. Make somewhat -thinner. - -HEAD: Cut toe from sock (Figure 2). Turn inside out and seam. Turn right -side out and stuff. Sew to neck (Figure 3). The head can be placed at -various angles (Figure 4). Shape nose, making it a little longer for the -donkey. - -TAIL: For the donkey braid a fairly thin tail from yarn or other -material with a tuft-like tip. For the pony make the tail much fuller. - -EARS: For the donkey, cut two long ears from sock (Figure 5) and two -from brown felt. Sew sock and felt pieces together, leaving an opening -for turning. Turn right side out and insert shaped pieces of wire -(Figure 6). (See page 33 for tips on wiring.) Sew ears to head, pleating -in front to curl the ears a little. For pony, cut shorter ear pieces and -omit wire. - -FEATURES: For nostrils, embroider two tear-shaped patches in brown yarn. -For eyes, use two leaf-shaped pieces of black felt sewn to each side of -the head. Over each piece, sew a flat button slightly smaller than the -felt. To shape the mouth, make a long stitch with brown yarn across the -lower front of the face and pinch sock around the mouth stitching to -form lips (Figure 7). - -MANES: A variety of materials can be used for manes. Remember that the -donkey’s mane is much thinner and stringier than a pony’s mane. For the -donkey, strands of black yarn can be used or a piece of black felt can -be cut in a saw-tooth shape with long teeth. - -TRIM: Bridles can be made from colorful leatherette. Sew pretty buttons -over pieces that are stitched together to hide the joints (Figure 8). A -short piece of chain will serve as a bit. For the donkey, make a -colorful “blanket” with tasseled edges. Little packs, made from the toes -of old colored socks can be sewn to the blanket to heighten the effect. -For the pony, make a shorter “saddle blanket” and add a saddle made from -an oval piece of leatherette. - - - - - KITTEN - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Use white athletic socks. For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic -instructions on page 7. - -FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7. - -NOSE: Cut complete toe from sock. Stuff lightly and sew to front of -head, or sew to side to make kitty look to the right or left (Figure 1). - -EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears from sock and matching ears from pink -felt. Sew one of each together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and -stitch to sides of head (Figure 2). - -FEATURES: For eyes, cut two oblong pieces of white felt and sew to face. -Sew little green buttons, highlighted with specks of white, to felt. Use -tempera or white india ink for specks. Embroider nose in pink yarn, -adding three little stitches to form mouth (Figure 3). A scrap of red -felt sewn to the lower stitch looks like a tongue (Figure 4). For -whiskers, insert broom straws or brush bristles through face near mouth. - -TRIM: Use a big colorful bow with a little bell under the chin. For an -extra playful look, sew a ball of yarn to front paws. - - - - - PUPPY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7. - -FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7. - -NOSE: Cut toe from sock. Turn inside out and stitch across toe to shape -a square nose (Figure 1). Turn and stuff lightly. Sew to the front of -head with the seam running side to side (Figure 2). - -TAIL: Cut as shown (Figure 3), seam, stuff and sew to body. - -EARS: Cut as shown (Figure 4), seam and turn. Sew the 2″ side to the -head, pleating in front a little to incline the ears forward. Push the -ears up a bit and hold in position with a few small stitches. - -FEATURES: Cut two semi-circular pieces of black felt. With curved side -up, sew to face just above the nose seam. If desired, the felt may be -cut into points to look like eyelashes. Add button or embroidered eyes -and an embroidered nose. - -TRIM: A gay felt collar or bright ribbon will do much to achieve a -lively look. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 13-15 - - -START WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON PAGE 5, STEPS 2 THROUGH 6. - - - Step 7 - -To shape head, pull white toe down for face and stitch to body. Tie -loosely at neck with ribbon. - - [Illustration: Step 7] - - - Step 8 - -Push leg against body, hold in place with one hand and stitch to body. -Repeat for other leg. - - [Illustration: Step 8] - - - Step 9 - -Bend legs into upside down V with white part about 1½″ longer. Stitch to -hold position. - - [Illustration: Step 9] - - - Step 10 - -Bend white part of leg outward to form foot. Stitch to hold and repeat -for other foot. - - [Illustration: Step 10] - - - - - BUNNY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7 and above. - -FORELEGS: Cut about 4″ long, turn inside out, seam along one side and -across the foot (Figure 1). Stuff and sew to body about ½″ apart. To -keep arms from sagging, insert wires while stuffing. (See page 33 for -tips on wiring.) - -FEATURES: For the nose, embroider a solid “V” in pink yarn. Three -stitches with black yarn makes the mouth (Figure 2). Sew on bright -buttons, spaced well apart, for eyes. Add a few curved stitches in black -for curly eyelashes. Insert broom straws or brush bristles for whiskers. - -EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears, 6″ long, from sock and two from pink -felt (Figure 3). Sew sock and felt pieces together on the wrong side, -leaving an opening for turning. Double two 12″ lengths of wire into -petal shapes and insert in each ear, fastening at base of ear. Sew to -sides of head with pink side forward. Pleat the felt to incline the ears -forward. - -TAIL: Mold a fairly large ball of cotton or use a white yarn pom pom. - -TRIM: Use the prettiest bow you have and dot it with sequins and tiny -spring flowers. - - - - - SQUIRREL ’N’ CHIPMUNK - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on pages 7 and 13. - -FRONT LEGS: See Bunny’s front legs on page 13. - -FEATURES: To make nose, pinch part of face into a little ball and wind -yarn around it. For pouchy cheeks, use nylon thread or very strong white -thread, and baste a circle on each side of the nose and ending just -under the nose (Figure 1). Pluck stuffing into puffs in the middle of -these circles for cheeks. Tighten stitching to hold cheeks in place. -Embroider mouth with red yarn and add small brown buttons for eyes. Use -broom straws or brush bristles for whiskers, pushing them through sides -of face. - -EARS: Cut two pointed ears from sock and two from felt (Figure 2). Sew -sock and felt pieces together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and -sew to top sides of head. Pleat felt. - -TAIL: Sew a thin strip of sock about 6″ long. Insert a wire and bend to -shape (Figure 3). Sew to body. Use brown pom poms or jersey loopers to -build up a bushy tail. Make squirrel’s tail somewhat bushier than the -chipmunk’s. - -STRIPES: Sew strips of black fur or felt down back of chipmunk only, -spacing them about ½″ apart. - - - - - BEGGING DOG - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow basic instructions on pages 7 and 13 with -the exception of step 7. To pull face upwards stitch across back instead -of front (Figure 1, above). - -FRONT LEGS: See Bunny’s front legs on page 11. To achieve the down paws -effect insert wires into legs and bend into L-shape (Figure 2). (See -page 33 for tips on wiring.) - -FACE: Cut toe from sock, stuff and sew to head (Figure 3). Add a red pom -pom for a comical nose. For a doleful mouth, embroider a modified upside -down V-shape and sew a lolling, long red felt tongue underneath it -(Figure 4). - -EARS: Cut two pieces from sock and two from pink felt (Figure 5). Sew -together, leaving opening for turning. Turn and sew to side of head with -ears hanging down. - -EYES: Cut circles of brown felt and sew to face. Sew white buttons on -circles. For a droopy look, cut crescent-shape pieces of felt and sew -over so that only part of eye buttons show (Figure 6). - -TAIL: Make a stubby tail from a roll of sock and sew to body. - -TRIM: Add a woe-be-gone hat (see page 31 for hat designs) or a floppy -ribbon bow. - - - - - KANGAROO - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - -For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on pages 7 and 13 -but sew opening in opposite direction so that legs spread apart and -there is room for the pouch. Stretch legs by pulling before stitching -into sitting position. - -FOREARMS: Follow directions for front legs on page 13, making them -somewhat thinner and shorter. - -FEATURES: Cut toe from sock, turn inside out and sew to a point (Figure -1). Turn, stuff lightly and sew to head. Mold the front of nose into a -long, blunt shape, pushing in the point at the end. Embroider eye-lines -with brown curved lashes (Figure 2). If possible, use crescent-shaped -buttons or pieces of brown felt for eyes to avoid the “glazed” look of -round buttons. Embroider mouth with brown yarn (Figure 3). - -EARS: Cut four sock ears and sew into pairs (Figure 4). Turn right side -out, stitch along sides of head and pleat front. - -TAIL: Cut from sock and seam, leaving wide end open for stuffing (Figure -5). Turn right side out, stuff and sew to body. - -POUCH: Cut a large triangle of knit to fit across the tummy with one -point sewn between the legs (Figure 6). Allow the pouch to sag a little -to leave room for baby kangaroo. - - - - - BABY KANGAROO - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Make the baby kangaroo from a small child’s sock in a beige or other -light color. Insert a cone shaped piece of cardboard in the toe of the -sock instead of the cardboard roll used in other finger puppets. Also -for the baby kangaroo, there is no need to take a tuck in the heel, but -rather let the heel become the top of the head (Figure 1). - -FEATURES: Turn the sock inside out and sew the toe to a point. Turn -right side, add padding in the very tip of the toe; then insert the cone -in the toe and pad around it up to the heel. Embroider a nose and -eyelines in brown, mouth in red or pink. Add tiny brown button eyes with -a dot of white for highlight. Add pink felt ears similar to Mama -Kangaroo’s (Figure 2). - -ARMS: Cut a slit on each side of the sock just below the neck. Be sure -slits are large enough to fit the fingers for manipulating the puppet. -Make glove-like fingers from the second sock or the fingers from an old -glove and sew them to the slits. Be sure not to sew slits closed. The -best way to avoid this is to turn the puppet inside out, fit the -“fingers” inside the slit and whip-switch the edges together (Figure 3). - -TRIM: Add a big baby blue bow under the chin—not too tight. When not -acting uppity like a puppet, baby kangaroo rests comfortably in Mama -Kangaroo’s pouch (Figure 4). - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - SCRAPPY - - - ... Our Fun-Loving, Mischievous Little Mascot! - -For those who want a very special doll, we have designed one with all -the features of a bouncing, dimpled doll right out of a toy show window. -It’s well worth the extra time and care to make Scrappy. - -BASIC DOLL: Use white athletic socks and follow the basic instructions -on page 19. For a more natural look, quick-dip the socks in a weak, -lukewarm solution of pink dye and let dry before making the doll. - -DIMPLES OR INDENTATIONS: These are quite simple to make. The trick lies -in pulling a few threads back for the indentation. Use a needle long -enough to go through the doll and thread it with yarn. Push the needle -through from the back to the point of the indentation, catch a few of -the sock threads, push the needle back through, pull both ends of the -yarn and tie them (Figure 1). To make eye sockets, cheeks and lip lines -see Tips and Tricks, page 33. - -SHAPING BODY: Knot one end of white yarn and make three long stitches at -the lower back—two that divide the legs from the body and one that -divides the hips equally (Figure 2). Pull yarn tightly to make -indentations. Make three dimples in the small of the back and one in the -tummy. - -ARMS AND LEGS: Make a dimple in each elbow and knee. Pull arms around -into a natural curve, taking a small tuck along the inside of the arm if -necessary (Figure 3). - -FEATURES: Mold the nose by pulling the stuffing into shape and embroider -or paint tiny nostrils. For the eyes, use round buttons with shanks or -salvage a pair of eyes from an old toy. Add a spot of white paint to -each button eye. Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows. Cut a mouth from red -felt and whip stitch to face. Then sew a white line across the middle to -divide the lips. The ears are semicircles cut from a piece of sock. Roll -the edges, hem and sew to the head even with the eyes (Figure 4). - -HAIR: Make colorful pom poms, using any of the hair styles on page 32. -For a short hairdo, outline the hair line on the head before you arrange -the pom poms. - -CLOTHING: Scrappy can be dressed as a boy or a girl in a wide variety of -costumes. Here’s how we dressed “him” as a little boy. - -SWEATER: Use a colorful ribbed sock. Cut it off at the heel and use the -cuff portion. For armholes, make a slit on each side of the sock about -1½″ down from the top. Slip sweater on and turn down the top for a -turtle neck (Figure 5). - -PANTS: Cut from black felt, pattern design B-2, page 29. Seam sides, -turn and fit doll, tucking at the waist as necessary. Add a leatherette -or plaid shoe-string belt. - -JACKET: Cut from bright blue felt, pattern design A-6, page 28. Sew side -seams and turn right side out. Sew two rows of white thread around all -the edges for trim. Add a little square pocket and tuck in a colorful -“hankie.” Sew small white buttons on the front. - -TAM: Use bright blue felt, with the band in yellow felt, and follow -pattern design C-17 on page 31. For a snug fit, fit the yellow band -around the head, sew the ends together and use it as a guide in cutting -the circles of blue felt. - -SHOES: Cut from red felt, pattern design F-27, page 30. Add shiny -buckles. - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - - [Illustration: Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 17 AND 20-27 - - - [Illustration: Step 1] - -Turn Sock No. 1 inside out. Stitch across the heel to form a straight -sock. - - [Illustration: Step 2] - -Cut 1½″ off rib of sock so that legs are in proportion to length of -body. - - [Illustration: Step 3] - -Start 3″ from heel and sew two seams, ⅛″ each side of center line and -across end of rib. - - [Illustration: Step 4] - -Cut sock between seams and 1″ farther to make opening for the stuffing. - - [Illustration: Step 5] - -Turn sock right side out. Stuff foot plumply and tie loosely with string -to form head. - - [Illustration: Step 6] - -Pull head forward so that white toe becomes face and stitch to chest -with strong thread. - - [Illustration: Step 7] - -Stuff legs and body. Sew up opening and mold figure for desired shape. - - [Illustration: Step 8] - -Bend end of legs and sew a tuck to hold feet. Tie string around ankles. - - [Illustration: Step 9] - -From Sock No. 2 cut arms about 5″ long. Turn inside out, seam, turn -right side and stuff. - - [Illustration: Step 10] - -Sew arms to sides of body and tie of each wrist with string about 1″ -from end. - - [Illustration: Step 11] - -Make three long stitches for finger separations and shorter ones for the -thumbs. - - [Illustration: Step 12] - -For the ears, cut two 1½″ circles. Fold in half and overcast along -edges. Sew to head. - - - - - GIRL DOLL - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2] - -Follow basic instructions for doll above. - -FEATURES: Stitch black yarn eyelines, add long brown lashes and blue -button eyes. Make three short stitches to form upturned nose. Cut a -smiling mouth from red felt. Add a long stitch of white yarn to separate -lips (Figure 1). - -HAIR: Choose from styles on page 32 and add a big bow ribbon to top of -head. - -DRESS: Make a petticoat from pattern design A-13, page 29. Fit the -petticoat by gathering at the waist and fastening at the back (Figure -2). Cut a skirt from the same pattern design. Use pattern design B-7, -page 28, for the blouse. Gather the skirt and sew to blouse to make -dress. Edge dress with rick rack or ribbon and fit to doll with opening -in the back. Sew little buttons down the back to close dress. Tie a wide -ribbon around waist, ending with a big bow. - -SHOES: Use matching felt and cut from pattern design F-27, page 30. - -PANTIES: Cut from pattern design C-3, page 29 in white cotton and trim -to match dress. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Use a curtain ring for a bracelet. A string of beads -around the neck will hide the seam. - - - - - PIXIE - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Embroider slanted eyes, wide open, and turn the eyebrows up a -little at the outer edge. With red yarn, make a smiling mouth. The nose -is an arc of brown yarn (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See method H-29, page 32. - -EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears from pink felt. Sew to head, folding a -little as you sew (Figure 2). - -JACKET: In green felt or semi-stiff material, cut from pattern design -A-6, page 28. Seam and fit to doll, opening at the front. Cut a “V” in -the back at the waist to form tails and sew a small button at the top of -the “V”. Trim sleeves into points. Tie a tiny bow at the neck front to -pull the jacket closed (Figure 3). - -PANTS: Use green or yellow felt, cut from pattern B-2, page 29. Trim the -leg edges to match the jacket. Fit to body and hide raw edges with a -strip of ribbon or felt. - -SHOES: Use brown felt and cut from pattern design C-24, page 30. Sew a -little jingle bell to toes and trim edges (Figure 4). - -HAT: In green or yellow felt cut eight petal shaped pieces. Stitch -together by overlapping petals into a large daisy. Overlap last two -petals to fit head (Figure 5). Stitch a bell or pom pom on top. - - - - - SOLDIER - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions on page 19. - -FEATURES: Embroider eyes in brown yarn, nose in beige and mouth in red -(Figure 1). - -HAIR: Choose from methods on page 32. - -PANTS: Cut from black or dark blue material, pattern design A-1, -page 29. Sew a narrow stripe down outside of legs. Tuck waistline to -fit. - -COAT: Use bright red felt, or semi-stiff material, following pattern -design A-6, page 28. Do not slit at middle front, rather slit to one -side (Figure 2). To hide stitches, sew on a strip of felt, and add four -small brass buttons down each side. Use white felt strips, ½″ by 11″ for -cross piping. Cover front and back seams with a black leatherette belt. -Make two epaulettes for shoulders from 1½″ long fringed ovals of yellow -felt (Figure 3). - -SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30. - -HAT: Cut from black felt, pattern design B-16, page 31. Loop gold or -white silk cord across front and add a narrow chin strap of black felt -(Figure 4). - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Sew a little buckle to the front of each shoe. Cut a -strip of ½″ wide white felt to fit snugly around the neck. Tuck coat -into this band and fasten in front with a brass button. Use the same -cord material as on hat and loop around coat buttons (Figure 5). - - - - - ENGINEER - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Sew on two small brown buttons for eyes. Embroider lashes and -upturned nose with brown yarn (Figure 1). A quarter-size ring of red -felt makes a mouth. - -HAIR: See page 32 for short hair styles. - -OVERALLS: Cut from blue and white striped material, pattern design A-1, -page 29. Seam and turn. Sew a 2″ square of the same material to each -side for pockets and a 2″ square, hemmed on three sides, for bib. For -straps, use two strips of material and add tiny buckles in front (Figure -2). - -SHIRT: Cut from soft blue material, pattern B-7, page 28, and fit to -body, tucking in at waist. - -HAT: Cut a ½″ wide strip of black felt to fit around the head. From the -same overall material, cut a 7″ circle and gather to fit band (Figure -3). A visor is made from a 3″ circle of black felt folded in half and -sewn around edges. Stitch to front of hat. - -SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a small red tri-cornered handkerchief around neck -and tuck a bright scrap of material in one pocket. - - - - - DUTCH GIRL - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -See basic instruction for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Stitch a black eyeline with yarn, add long black lashes and -blue button eyes. Make three stitches to form a turned up nose. Cut a -mouth from red felt and sew to face. Separate lips with a long white -stitch (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See method N-34, page 32 for braided hair. - -DRESS: Cut blouse from soft blue material, pattern design B-7, page 28. -Fit to doll with opening at back. Cut skirt from the same material, -using pattern design B-14, page 29. Gather around waist with small -stitches and fit over blouse. Trim both pieces with rick rack or ribbon. -The apron is a 6″ square of white organdy gathered at one edge and sewn -to an 18″ strip of white ribbon. Tie the apron over the waist to hide -the seam (Figure 2). - -PANTIES: Cut from white cotton material, pattern design C-3, page 29 and -trim with narrow lace. - -SHOES: Use felt to cut from pattern design B-23, page 30. Embroider a -tiny flower on each toe. - -HAT: Use a 3″ by 11″ piece of crisp white fabric and a smaller piece for -the back (Figure 3). Gather the larger piece to fit the back and hem -edges. Turn the lower corners of the hat back from the face. A tiny -safety pin will hold the hat in place. - - - - - SCOTCH LASS - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Follow instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Cut one dime-size circle of white felt and cut it into two. -Sew each half on for an eye, curved side up. Sew tiny flat buttons to -one side. With black yarn, make six long lashes over each eye (Figure -1). - -HAIR: Choose a style on page 32. - -BLOUSE: Cut from soft white material, pattern design B-7, page 28, and -dress doll with opening in back. - -SKIRT: Use permanently pleated plaid material and cut a skirt that -reaches to the knees (Figure 2). Sew to blouse with opening at back. Use -a strip of brown felt or oilcloth to hide the seam. Over this, stitch a -circle of fur about 4″ across. The Scotch call this a sporran (Figure -3). Drape a length of ribbon, about 1″ wide and 9″ long, over one -shoulder, tucking the ends under the belt. - -HAT: Cut from green or red felt (to match dress) from pattern design -C-17, page 31. Add a tiny pom pom for a gay touch. - -SHOES: Cut from black felt or oilcloth from pattern design A-22, -page 30. - -PANTIES: If desired, cut from black felt or jersey pattern C-3, page 29. - - - - - MEXICAN BOY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Embroider eyes in black yarn, nose in brown. Cut a smiling -mouth from red felt, snipping out some from the middle (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See page 32 for choice of styles. - -JACKET: Cut from bright colored felt, pattern design A-6, page 28. Make -a scarf in striped cloth or from a brightly striped sock to drape across -one shoulder (Figure 2). - -PANTS: Cut from brown or black material following pattern design D-4, -page 29. Trim sides of legs with rick rack or ribbon. Fit to body, -tucking at waist with the jacket inside the pants. To hide the seam, -fasten a cummerbund of red felt or oilcloth. - -SHOES: Cut in black felt from pattern design A-22, page 30. Decorate -with sequins or beads. - -HAT: Cut from matching felt, pattern A-15, page 31. Shape with fingers -into a high Mexican hat (Figure 3). - - - - - CHINESE BOY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Embroider slanted eyes in black yarn, nose in brown and -smiling mouth in red (Figure 1). - -HAIR: Follow method M-33, page 32, stitching yarn at the back of the -head only to braid into a pigtail. - -JACKET: Use colorful satin or shiny cotton and cut from pattern design -A-6, page 28. Make sleeves wider at the wrist end. Opening will be in -the front. - -PANTS: In contrasting satin material, cut from pattern design E-5, page -29. Leave a 1″ opening at the ankle of each leg (Figure 2). - -SHOES: Cut from red felt from pattern design A-22, page 30. Turn tops of -shoes down a bit and trim with sequins or beads. - -HAT: Cut a circle of felt 8″ across. Make a slit from edge to the -middle. Overlap slit edges to form a coolie hat (Figure 3). Then measure -around the head and make a ½″ wide band of felt. Whip stitch this to the -inside of the coolie hat. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: The more beads, sequins and embroidery on the -clothes, the prettier the finished doll will look. - - - - - ESKIMO BOY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Embroider almond-shaped eyes in black yarn, nose in beige and -smiling mouth in red (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See method P-28, page 32. - -JACKET: Use terry cloth, fur or similar material and cut from pattern -design A-6, page 29. - -PANTS: Use the same material and cut from pattern design A-1, page 29. -Fit jacket over pants and add leatherette belt if desired (Figure 2). - -BOOTS: Cut from same material following pattern design A-22, page 30. -Use bright color thread to make a design on boots (Figure 3). - -HOOD: Cut the toe from second sock and slit from raw edge to tip of toe -(Figure 4). Whip stitch raw edges. Sew a band of pom poms (see method -P-28, page 32) or a strip of fur along edge that fits around face. A -second type of parka can be made from design E-19, page 31. Trim with -pom poms or fur. - - - - - HULA GIRL - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: For eyes, sew two white oval pieces of felt to face. Embroider -a line across each one, stitching a small brown button just below. Cut a -mouth-shaped piece of red felt and sew into place. A small up-turned -nose can be embroidered in brown yarn (Figure 1). - -HAIR: Make black yarn pom poms (see P-28, page 32) and sew closely to -head. - -DRESS: For a halter top, cut a 3″ wide strip of gay soft material, -gather a little along bottom and tie around body above waist. Make a -tuck at the middle front (Figure 2). For the hulu skirt use raffia, yarn -or strips of dyed nylon stocking. Wind yarn around a piece of cardboard -6″ wide about 100 times. Slip a 12″ length of ribbon under loops, -leaving ends free (Figure 3). Cut opposite edge of loops, remove -carefully and tie around waist (Figure 4). Over this fit a 1″ wide -ribbon. - -PANTIES: Cut from the same material as top piece, pattern design C-3, -page 29. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Push small curtain rings over waists and ankles. -Stitch to ears for earrings. Fasten a string of beads around neck to -hide seam. Tuck an artificial flower into the hair. Twist several -colored pipe cleaners together to make a lei. - - - - - COWBOY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Use brown yarn for eyebrows, a line of black for eyelids, nose -and mouth. Sew on two flat buttons for eyes (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See page 32 for short hair styles. - -DRESS: Cut a shirt from checkered material, pattern design A-6, page 28. -Seam and fit to body with opening at front. Sew tiny white buttons down -front to hide seam. Cut pants from pattern design E-5, page 29, in brown -or beige material. Seam and turn. Pleat pants at waist to fit over -shirt. Cut leatherette chaparejos from pattern design A-1, page 29, -cutting away top as indicated. Use a 1″ width of brown leatherette for -belt and finish with a little buckle. Tie a bright three-cornered -kerchief around neck (Figure 2). - -HAT: Cut from beige felt, pattern A-15, page 31. Shape with fingers -(Figure 3). - -BOOTS: Cut in black or brown felt from pattern design E-25, page 30. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Sew loops of string or thin rope to one hand. -Holsters can be cut from leatherette (Figure 4). - - - - - INDIAN - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Sew round brown button eyes over dime-size circles of white -felt. Embroider eyebrows in black yarn, nose in brown and mouth in red -yarn (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See pattern design K-31, page 32. Braid in two parts, one each -side of the face. - -JACKET: Use brown or beige material and cut from pattern design A-6, -page 28. Sew sides, leaving a 1″ slit at waist (Figure 2). Stitch -colored fringe, rick rack or beads along the front and bottom of the -jacket. Paint, glue or sew colorful Indian sign on back. - -PANTS: Use the same material and follow pattern design A-1, page 29. -Trim outside of each leg with rick rack or fringe. - -HEADDRESS: Fasten a ½″ wide strip of oilcloth or felt around head, -tucking a bright feather in at the back (Figure 3). Beads or sequins can -be glued to the band for a more colorful effect. - -MOCCASINS: Cut from colored felt following pattern design A-22, page 30. -Turn down the edges and glue on beads or sequins. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a string of the brightest beads you can find -around the neck to hide the seam. - - - - - RED RIDING HOOD - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Embroider eyebrows, lashes and nose in brown yarn. Use small -blue beads or buttons for eyes, red felt for mouth (Figure 1). - -HAIR: See J-30, page 32 for pony tail hair style. - -DRESS: Cut blouse from any bright material, except red, pattern design -C-8, page 28. Cut skirt from same material, design B-14, page 29. Gather -around waist and sew to blouse, with opening at the back (Figure 2). Tie -a ribbon around the waist to hide the seam. - -SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design F-27, page 30. Sew a tiny -flower to the toe of each shoe. - -CLOAK: Use a piece of red material 8″ long by 14″ wide. Hem all sides. -Gather along one 14″ side to fit around neck (Figure 3). Cut hood from -pattern design P-36. Gather along neck edge and sew to cloak. Tie a -strip of white ribbon around neck to hide the seam. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Wire a bunch of artificial flowers to one hand -(Figure 4) or a tiny basket over one arm. Make panties and a petticoat -from pattern designs if desired. - - - - - ROBIN HOOD - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - - GATHER AROUND PANTS LEGS FOR DOUBLET - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Use brown yarn for eyebrows and nose; red yarn for a smiling -mouth. The flat brown buttons with a dot of white on each make the eyes -(Figure 1). - -HAIR: Use method H-29, page 32. - -TUNIC: Use green felt or a semi-stiff material and cut from pattern -design A-6, page 28. Cut a 7″ circle of brown felt and remove a portion -from the middle 2½″ across. Slit from edge to middle to fit over the -head. Scallop around outer edge. This collar fits over the jacket with -opening in front. Punch three holes on each side and lace with narrow -ribbon (Figure 2). - -PANTS: Use soft green material and cut from pattern design B-2, page 29. -If the material stretches easily, make the pants tighter than the -design, since Robin Hood wears tights. Fit to body, tucking at waist. -Fit tunic over pants, add belt and buckle. - -SHOES: Make from green felt or similar material following pattern design -A-22, page 30. Cut a “V” shaped slit at each side of shoes or roll the -top down slightly (Figure 3). - -CAP: Cut from green felt following pattern design D-18, page 31. After -the cap is sewn on the head, turn the edge up about ½″ at the back. -Attach a long red feather for color. - - - - - SANTA CLAUS - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: Sew a small round red bead for nose. Embroider merry blue eyes -in yarn, and add heavy white yarn eyebrows. Cut and sew a -crescent-shaped piece of red felt for a smiling mouth (Figure 1). - -SUIT: Use red material, cut and sew coat from pattern design A-6, page -28, with opening in front. Cut pants from pattern design A-1, page 29. -Sew and tuck at waist to fit body. - -BOOTS: Make from black felt or oilcloth, pattern D-25, page 30. Sew a -tiny jingle bell to each boot. - -CAP: From the same material as suit, cut a piece 8″ × 12″. Sew the -shorter sides together to form a tube. Gather one end to close. - -FUR TRIM: Strips of white fur, terry cloth or rolled white cotton make -effective edgings. Sew around cap, neck, front and bottom edges of coat -(Figure 2). - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a bow of ribbon to a Christmas bell and wire to -one hand (Figure 3). Sew a jingle bell to gathered end of cap. Around -the waist, fasten a 1″ wide black belt with a buckle in front. Form a -beard (from cap to chest) and moustache of white cotton or fur and sew -to face (Figure 4). - - - - - CLOWN DOLL - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19. - -FEATURES: For the nose, sew on a large red button. Use two small white -buttons with spots of black painted on, for eyes. Embroider highly -arched eyebrows in black yarn. Cut a crescent-shaped large mouth from -red felt. A single white yarn stitch will divide the lips (Figure 1). - -HAIR: Make orange or yellow pom poms (see P-28, page 32) and stitch to -head, sideburn fashion (Figure 2). - -SUIT: Use bright colored material for jacket and follow pattern design -A-6, page 28. Seam and turn. Gather wrists to fit arms. Cut pants from -pattern design D-4, page 29. Seam; turn and gather waist slightly. Sew -to jacket to make one garment. Gather legs to fit ankles. - -HAT: Make a cone from white felt and sew to head at a rakish angle. Turn -edges up ½″. Stitch two red pom poms to front of hat (Figure 3). - -SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30. Make foot much -longer and sew pom poms to tips of toes. - -FINISHING TOUCHES: Make a ruffle of 2″ wide stiff net to fit around the -neck (Figure 4). Do the same for wrists and ankles. Sew pom poms down -the front. Add belt over waist seam. - - - - - JACKETS ’N’ APRONS - - - [Illustration: A6 LONG SLEEVE (CUT TWO)] - - CUT ON DOTTED LINES - CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY - - [Illustration: D9 SLEEVELESS (CUT TWO)] - - CUT ALONG DOTTED LINES - CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY - - [Illustration: C8 TUNIC STYLE (CUT TWO)] - - CUT ALONG DOTTED LINE - CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY - SEW ALONG HERE - - [Illustration: B7 SHORT SLEEVE (CUT TWO)] - - CUT ALONG DOTTED LINES - CUT ALONG HERE ONE PIECE ONLY - - [Illustration: A10 APRON] - - [Illustration: B11 APRON] - - [Illustration: C12 APRON] - - - - - PANTS ’N’ SKIRTS - - - [Illustration: A1 LONG PANTS AND CHAPS (CUT TWO)] - - SEW ON DOTTED LINES - - [Illustration: B2 SHORT PANTS (CUT TWO)] - - [Illustration: C3 PANTIES (CUT TWO)] - - CUT ON DOTTED LINES - - [Illustration: D4 WIDE PANTS (CUT TWO)] - - SEW ALONG THIS LINE - CUT HERE - SEW ALONG THIS LINE - - [Illustration: E5 NARROW PANTS (CUT TWO)] - - CUT ON DOTTED LINES - - [Illustration: A13 LONG SKIRT (CUT ONE)] - - GATHER ALONG THIS EDGE - CUT ON DOTTED LINE - - [Illustration: B14 SHORT SKIRT (CUT ONE)] - - GATHER ALONG THIS EDGE - CUT ON DOTTED LINE - - - - - SHOES ’N’ BOOTS - - - [Illustration: A22 LACED SHOE] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT SOLE - ③ SEW TOGETHER - ④ LACE - - [Illustration: B23 DUTCH SHOE] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT SOLE - ③ SEW TOGETHER - ④ TURN DOWN - - [Illustration: C24 POINTED SHOE] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT SOLE - ③ SEW TOGETHER - ④ TURN DOWN - - [Illustration: D25-E25 BOOTS] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT SOLE - ③ SEW TOGETHER - ④ LACE, IF DESIRED - - [Illustration: E26 LOW BOOT] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT SOLE - ③ SEW TOGETHER - - [Illustration: F27 SLIPPER] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT SOLE - ③ SEW TOGETHER - - - - - HATS—CAPS—HOODS - - - [Illustration: A15 BRIM HAT] - - ① BRIM - ② TOP - ③ SEW TOGETHER - - [Illustration: B16 TOP HAT] - - ① BRIM - ② TOP - ③ SIDES - ④ SEW - - [Illustration: C17 TAM] - - ① CUT TOP - ② CUT BOTTOM - ③ BAND - ④ SEW BAND - - [Illustration: D18 ROBIN HOOD] - - ① CUT HAT - ② SEW - - [Illustration: E19 DUTCH BONNET] - - ① CUT HAT - ② CUT BACK - ③ SEW - - [Illustration: P36-F20 HOODS] - - ① CUT - ② SEAM - ③ SEW HEAD BAND - - [Illustration: G21 COOLIE] - - ① CUT HAT, SLIT TO CENTER - ② JOIN EDGES - ③ SEW BAND - - [Illustration: CONE HAT] - - ① CUT TRIANGLE - ② MAKE CONE - ③ TURN EDGE UP - - [Illustration: STOCKING CAP] - - ① CUT OFF TOE - ② HEM RAW EDGE - - - - - HAIR ’N’ FACIAL EXPRESSIONS - - - [Illustration: H29 SHORT LOOP] - - ① DRAW HAIRLINE - ② MAKE LOOPS - ③ COVER - - [Illustration: P28 POM POMS] - - ① WIND YARN - ② CUT - ③ SEW TO HEAD - - [Illustration: J30 PONY TAIL] - - ① MAKE LOOPS - ② COVER HEAD - ③ PULL BACK - - [Illustration: K31 BANGS] - - ① SEW DOWN CENTER (bangs) - ② SEW CENTER (sides) - ③ SIDES OVER BANGS - - [Illustration: L32 CREW CUT] - - ① MAKE LONG LOOPS - ② CUT LOOPS - ③ COVER HEAD - - [Illustration: M33 STRAIGHT] - - ① USE SINGLE STRAND - ② FORM PARTING - ③ COVER HEAD - - [Illustration: N34 BRAIDS] - - ① SEW DOWN CENTER - ② ARRANGE HAIR - ③ BRAID - - [Illustration: FACIAL EXPRESSIONS] - - MONKEY - SLEEPING - BOY - GIRL - ORIENTAL - CLOWN - SAD - BABY - - - - - TIPS ’N’ TRICKS - - -SOCK SIZES: The animals and dolls in this book were made from size 13 -socks; the puppets were made from size 9 socks. The clothing pattern -designs will fit toys made from these sizes. - -STUFFING: We used kapok for ease in packing and shaping. Nylon fluff, -dacron filling, shredded foam rubber or lint from an automatic dryer -will work as well. Old nylon hose and other cloth scraps tend to become -lumpy. Use a pencil or dowel for packing stuffing in narrow places. -Clean stuffed toys by dry sudsing. - -WIRING: Stove pipe wire or similar types work fine. Coat hanger wire is -too thick and hard to bend. Always bend wire ends up and in to prevent -them from working through. Wraps wires with adhesive tape or string. -Dabs of cement on the wire will hold string in place (Figure 1). Insert -wires straight and bend the completed tail, ears and so forth. - - [Illustration: Figure 1] - - BEND ENDS - WRAP ENDS - ANIMAL LEGS - HUMAN LEGS - -SHAPING: Toys can be molded by pushing or pulling the stuffing with the -fingers. An occasional stitch will help hold the shape. To mold chubby -cheeks, make circles of small stitches, pluck the stuffing up in the -circles, pull the ends of the thread together and tie off (Figure 2). - - [Illustration: Figure 2] - - MAKING DIMPLES - GATHER CHEEKS - PULL STITCHES TO SHAPE CHEEKS - -Indentations and dimples are made by pulling a few sock threads back -into the toy. This is done by pushing a threaded needle through from the -back, catching a few sock threads and pushing the needle back again. -Pulling on the needle thread pulls the sock threads in. Repeat for the -desired indentations and tie off. Figure 3 shows how this is done for -eye sockets. For toys with side eyes (bunnies, donkeys, etc.) work from -eye to eye. For more natural lip lines, catch several sock threads in -shallow arcs over and under the lips and in a straight line between the -lips (Figure 4). See Scrappy on page 17 for ideas on where to put -dimples. Use a darning needle to push through the head or body. Lightly -pencilled guide lines are helpful. - - [Illustration: Figure 3] - - SETTING IN DOLL’S EYES (BACK TO FRONT) - SETTING IN BUNNY’S EYES (SIDE TO SIDE) - - [Illustration: Figure 4] - - MAKE STITCHES AROUND MOUTH AND ACROSS LIPS - WORKING FROM BACK TO FRONT - -FEATURES: To give the face a flesh colored look, dip the toe of the sock -in a weak solution of pink dye before the sock is cut and stuffed. Be -sure the solution is lukewarm. For a more professional look, sew flesh -colored stockinet over the face after the features have been molded and -stitched into shape (Figure 5). - - [Illustration: Figure 5] - - MOLD FEATURES BY PINCHING AND STITCHING - THEN SEW STOCKINET TIGHTLY OVER FACE WITHOUT FLATTENING - -EYES: If you plan to make several toys, especially animals, invest in -manufactured eyes. Or, use eyes from discarded toys. Shoe buttons also -make very good eyes since they have shanks. Add a highlight speck of -white paint to each button eye to avoid that blank look. Never use eyes -that are too small unless you want an older or mean look. - -HAIR: Inexpensive wigs, or ones from discarded dolls, can be substituted -for pom poms and scrap fur. Pencil guide lines on the head before sewing -on pom poms. - -FACIAL EXPRESSIONS: Much can be done to accentuate features and to give -toys individuality by embroidering or using felt eyebrows, eyelashes, -wrinkles, crinkles and so forth. Felt pieces should be glued on or sewn -with tiny stitches in matching thread. We used the satin stitch for -embroidered features (Figure 6). - - [Illustration: Figure 6] - - BLACK CENTER - WHITE HIGHLIGHT - BLUE - SATIN STITCH MOUTH - SATIN STITCH EYE - -CLOTHING: Use freshly laundered and pressed materials—it’s well worth -the extra effort. Avoid patterned materials that are out of proportion -to the toys. Crayons (pressed well into the fabric) or textile paints -can be used to make small pattern designs. Tempera paints tend to wash -out. Choose materials that do not easily unravel. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - FINGER PUPPETS - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -MAKING AND STUFFING HEAD: Insert a short piece of paper towel roll in -the toe of the sock, then push stuffing up around it until the head is -plump and round (Figure 1). Tie a ribbon around the neck and stitch in -place to keep it from slipping (Figure 2). Features can be added and the -face pushed into various shapes. The finger puppets on pages 35-38 are -just a few of the endless variations that can be made. - -ARMS: Make a slit on each side of the sock below the neck—just large -enough for your thumb and little finger. If desired, little glove-like -fingers can be sewn over the openings, otherwise just whip stitch the -edge (Figure 3). Add appropriate clothes. - -TO OPERATE: Push your index finger and second finger into the cardboard -roll; and thumb and little finger into the slits on the side (Figure 4). -Head can be bobbed up and down or sideways by moving the fingers inside -the cardboard roll while the thumb and little finger can move together -and apart to grasp articles, wave, and so on. - - - - - WITCH - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions above for finger puppets. - -NOSE: Use the red heel of another sock or a piece of felt. Cut in a -triangular shape, sew the long sides together, turn and stuff lightly. -Bend for a hooked nose and sew to face (Figure 1). - -MOUTH: Sew on an upside down crescent-shaped piece of felt. - -EYES: Sew on two black buttons, close together over nose. Embroider -forbidding black eyebrows. - -HAIR: Add scraggly black hair by sewing on loops of black yarn in -various lengths and cutting the ends open (Figure 2). - -CLOAK: Use a piece of dark material about 12″ × 15″. Fold in half -lengthwise. Sew across one end starting at the corner of the folded edge -and tapering down to a point 2″ from the top of the open edge (Figure -3). The highest point becomes the peak of the hood. Turn right side out. -Gather the material about 4″ down from the front of the hood to fit -around the neck of the puppet. Stitch ribbon over gathers and tie ends -at front. Turn front edges of hood back about 1″ and hem rough edges -(Figure 4). - - - - - KATIE ’N’ JAMIE - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - - [Illustration: Fig. 5 · Fig. 6 · Fig. 7 · Fig. 8] - -Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35. - -LEGS: Cut the white ribbings from two socks to make the legs. Cut each -ribbing lengthwise and sew down the long sides and across one end. Turn -and stuff lightly. Sew the legs to the front of the puppet sock opposite -the heel so that the puppet appears to “sit” when propped over the edge -of a stage. Tie ribbon around the ankles (Figure 1). For more realistic -legs with feet, follow methods used for dolls on pages 17 and 19. - -HAIR: See page 32 for hair styles. Make both from the same color yarn. - -FEATURES: Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows in black yarn. Mouths are red -felt. Sew an upturned nose with beige yarn (Figure 2). - -BLOUSE: Cut Katie’s blouse from two pieces of white material (Figure 3). -Sew together at shoulders, leaving a space for neck and then down sides -leaving arm holes. Pull up over bottom of puppet. Add a wide lace collar -to hide shoulder seams and short lace edging around arm holes. - -SKIRT: Cut a 10″ circle of felt and remove a 3″ circle from the center. -Slit up the back and overlap to fit around the puppet. Fasten with a -snap. Add shoulder straps of the same material to keep the skirt from -slipping. Trim the skirt and straps with embroidery or sequins (Figure -4). - -SHIRT: Cut Jamie’s shirt from the same white material and stitch to the -body in the same way. Cut a collar-shaped piece of material and stitch -around the neck. Whip stitch arm holes. Add buttons down front of shirt -(Figure 5). - -PANTS: Cut the pants as shown from the same felt material as the -skirt—pointed piece for the front (Figure 6). Sew the point down onto -the sock between the legs. Back piece will actually look like a skirt -and is merely there to make short pants appear complete. Make suspenders -from the same material and attach to the pants with tiny buttons. - -HATS: For Katie, make a bonnet as shown and tie to the head with ribbon -bow under chin (Figure 7). Jamie wears a beanie made from the toe of a -sock. Roll back the brim and add a pom pom to the top (Figure 8). - -SHOES: If you use more elaborate legs with feet, follow the shoe pattern -designs on page 30 making about ½ size. Remember to sew the shoes to the -feet rather than try to fit shoes over feet. - - - - - PIRATE - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - - MAKE PATCH - -Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35. - -NOSE AND EYES: Pinch a small portion of the sock together in the middle -of the face and tie off—dab with red paint. Sew on one button eye and -make a black patch for the other. Make evil looking black eyebrows from -yarn (Figure 1). - -MOUTH: From red felt, cut a wide, sly, grinning mouth. Remove a small -portion from the center to give an open grin. Add a gruesome tooth or -two and a villainous black mustache (Figure 2). - -BEARD: Add yarn or fringed felt around the chin and sides of the face. -At the top of the beard, add a few longer strands of wild looking hair -(Figure 3). - -DRESS: Make a bandana from bright spotted material and tie it around the -top of the head, knotting the ends at one side. Hang brass curtain rings -on for earrings. For the shirt, take a black colored sock and cut it off -at the heel. For arm holes, make a slit on each about 1″ down from the -top of the cuff. Slip over the puppet and turn down top for a turtle -neck effect. Add a belt from leatherette and paint the skull and cross -bones in the center (Figure 4). - - - - - INDIAN - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35. - -FEATURES: Use two round brown buttons for eyes—paint on a spot of white -for highlight. Embroider brows in black and mouth in red. Add small -button nose (Figure 1). - -HAIR: Wind black yarn around a card 3″ wide, about 20 times. Gather -along one edge with black yarn; snip other edge open and remove -carefully (Figure 2). Sew to the top of the head with the seam down the -center like a part and hair hanging down each side of the head. Fit a -band of tape (embroidered or plain with beadwork) around the head and -add a feather at the back (Figure 3). - -DRESS: Cut a shirt from a piece of material 8″ × 6″, seam and fit to -puppet with opening at the back. Gather along the waist and sew to a -strip of felt for the belt (Figure 4). - -OPTIONAL: Add novel beads around neck and wrists (if you have added the -glove-like fingers mentioned in the basic instructions). You might try a -Mohawk hairdo, braids, fancy headdress, medicine man’s mask or other -variations. - - - - - LION - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - - SEW EARS WIDE APART - -Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35. - -FEATURES: Cut toe from the second sock, turn inside out and sew to a -nose shape (Figure 1). Stuff lightly and stitch to the front of the -head. Embroider end of the nose in black yarn and add an upside down -Y-shaped mouth in red yarn. Sew on black button eyes over brown felt -circles (Figure 2). - -EARS: Cut two petal shaped pieces from brown felt or scrap fur and two -pieces from pink felt. Sew the pink and brown pieces together, leaving -an opening for turning. Turn and stitch to head. Pleat felt. - -MANE: Sew bushy yarn pom poms (see page 32) or strips of scrap fur over -the top of the head and down around the neck (Figure 3). - -PAWS: Make two small paws from the second sock or the fingers of an old -glove and sew over the slits at the sides of the puppet. Add small yarn -pom poms or fur scraps near the ends (Figure 4). - -FINISHING TOUCHES: If he is to be THE LION in “The Wizard of Oz” hang a -little heart locket around the neck. - - - - - BILLY GOAT - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Follow the basic instruction for the finger puppets on page 35. - -FEATURES: Cut toe from second sock, turn inside out and sew to a -narrower end (Figure 1). Turn, stuff and stitch to the face. Embroider -two nostrils at the tip and sew on a red mouth. Cut two circles of brown -felt and sew to each side of the head. Add bright buttons or beads to -complete the eyes. For a sleepy look, use flat button eyes and sew -crescent-shaped pieces of felt over so that only the bottom half of the -eyes shows. Embroider eyelashes, or cut them from felt, if you want to -give Mr. Billy Goat a coy expression. - -EARS AND HORNS: Cut ears as shown and sew to the top of the head (Figure -2). Make horns from white felt, sewing them into a tube. Insert pipe -cleaners into the tubes so that they can be bent to the desired shape. -Sew firmly to the top of the head, pushing pipe cleaners down into the -head a bit. Curve horns backwards (Figure 3). - -WHISKERS: Add a pom pom (wound only 10 times) under the chin and trim to -a point. - -TRIM: Add a high, formal white collar with a black bow tie. Make a pair -of spectacles from thin wire with the nose piece setting well towards -the tip (Figure 4). - - - - - ARM PUPPETS - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -The puppets shown on the following pages are basically those in which -the mouth is made to move by the action of the hand. In making these -puppets keep in mind that ample room must be left over and under the -mouth piece for the fingers to operate freely to obtain the maximum -facial expressions. Do not use staples, pins or other sharp objects to -hold pieces together since they are apt to cut the hand or fingers. Make -the puppets large enough so that they can be easily slipped on and off -by the child or adult using them. - -STEP NO. 1: Tuck the heel of the sock to make a straight tubular piece. - -STEP NO. 2: Cut the foot of the sock as shown by the dotted lines. - -STEP NO. 3: Turn the sock inside out and cut a piece of red material the -shape of the mouth opening. Also cut a matching piece from cardboard. -Sew the red material to the sock with an overhand stitch or use your -sewing machine. - -STEP NO. 4: Turn the sock right side out. Fold the cardboard piece in -half and insert in the sock. - -STEP NO. 5: Add features such as button eyes, nose, hair and so forth. - -ANIMATION: Most talking puppets are operated by placing the thumb under -the bottom cardboard piece and the fingers over the upper piece. Open -and close the hand to make the puppet talk. Twisting the hand will give -a variety of facial expressions and moving the arm about will add to the -illusion. - - - - - VARIATIONS - - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -The basic instructions above are for the crocodile which appeared in the -September 1954 issue of _Pack-O-Fun_ magazine. With modifications, -literally hundreds of puppet variations can be made. By simply adding a -saw-toothed strip of felt on top, Mr. Crocodile can be turned into a -scaly, scary dragon. Or by shortening the mouth and building up the -head, as we did for the clown and ringmaster on page 40, you can create -a multitude of lovable characters from Hansel and Gretel to modern -animated cartoon animals. - -Whiskers and mustaches will give villainous or rube-like looks; eyes and -ears can be exaggerated for comic expressions; cheeks can be padded for -a chubby look and noses can be anything from a tiny button to a long -duck’s beak. Hairdos can be long and feminine, short and boyish or -fringed for a lion’s mane. Hats, dresses and other costume pieces will -enhance the puppet character and hide the arm. - -The puppets on pages 42-43 were made for the underwater western skit -“Phineas Rides Again” written by our Katie Conrad. Four of the -characters are talking puppets. Louie the Lobster is a finger puppet and -will give you an idea how both types of puppets can be combined for -maximum visual effect. Susie Starfish has no moving parts, but being the -beautiful heroine really doesn’t need any! It is possible for one person -to handle all six roles. - - - - - CLOWN PUPPET - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -For Sock No. 1 follow Steps 1, 2, 3, 4 on page 39, but make the mouth -shorter. - -HEAD: Cut 4″ from the toe of the second sock. Stuff lightly, but firmly, -so that it doesn’t get too heavy (Figure 1). Sew to the top of the first -sock, turning under the rough edges. Be careful not to sew the space -above the cardboard closed in Sock No. 1. Shape nice and round (Figure -2). - -FEATURES: For eyes use large round or crescent-shaped pieces of felt -with bright buttons sewn on. Embroider exaggerated eyebrows. Use a big -bead or button for the nose. Colorful pom poms (see page 32) are sewn on -for sideburns. Cut a piece of bright red felt for an upper lip and sew -it to the top sock (Figure 3). - -COSTUME: Add a cone-shaped hat (see Clown Doll on page 27) perched at a -rakish angle. To hide the arm, stitch a colorful ruffle around the -neck—being careful not to sew it so tight that you will have difficulty -getting your arm in the puppet (Figure 4). - -ANIMATION: Slip the thumb into the bottom part of the mouth and the -fingers into the top. - - - - - RINGMASTER - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -Make the head the same way as the clown above. - -FEATURES: The ringmaster’s features are more nearly natural than those -of the clown. Embroider thick eyebrows in black, brown or red yarn and -sew buttons under them for eyes. For the nose cut a triangular piece -from a matching sock, sew the long edges together and turn. Stuff -lightly and sew to face. Bend the nose to give it a slight hook (Figure -1). The curling mustache, hair and neat sideburns can be embroidered in -yarn matching or contrasting with the eyebrows (Figure 2). Ears can be -cut from felt. Sew them on so that they stick out a bit. - -COSTUME: Use shiny black oilcloth to make the top hat described on page -31. Set at a jaunty angle and whip stitch to head. Stitch a white wing -collar around the neck with just the suggestion of a tie (Figure 3). For -greater realism add the upper part of a frock coat with wide lapels. Put -a white carnation on the right lapel (Figure 4). - -OTHER CIRCUS PUPPETS: By following the basic head patterns you can make -other circus folk and animals. For features use the many suggestions for -the Sock Animals and Sock Dolls. For example, for a talking elephant -stitch a trunk right above the mouth, add tusks and big ears, a tasseled -headpiece and so forth. - - - - - Phineas Rides Again - - - Reprinted from _Pack-O-Fun Skit Book No. 1_ - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -The puppets are made from old socks with burlap, felt, cardboard, -sponge, plastic lacing and buttons used for features, tentacles, and -claws. - -The operators sit on chairs on either side of a theatre made from a -cardboard carton, with openings cut in each side. Stage directions for -right and left are for a person ON STAGE, facing the audience. The -direction from which each character enters must be considered in making -the puppets. - -(_The ANNOUNCER appears in front of the curtain._) - -Announcer: Good evening, ladies and gentlemen! For years the -action-filled western has reigned supreme as a favorite with adventure -story lovers. Recently, however, its popularity has been challenged by a -rush of interest in underwater drama. Tonight, we combine these trends -and proudly present a production that will please everyone: -A-Cowboy-Story-Under-The-Sea. Its title is “Phineas Rides Again” or “The -Foam Ranger.” - -The following exciting characters will appear: - - Phineas Fish—_The Hero_ - Clem Clam—_His Sidekick_ - Susie Starfish—_The Heroine_ - Oily Oliver Octopus—_The Villain_ - Louie the Lobster—_His Accomplice_ - Sam Sponge—_The Sheriff_ - -Shall we join the players way down yonder in the wild western ocean? - -(_ANNOUNCER leaves, and the curtain opens far enough to reveal the -puppet theatre. PHINEAS has entered from RIGHT and is on stage, alone, -singing. Others backstage may join him to add to the volume._) - -Phineas: (_To the tune of “Home on the Range”_) - - Oh, give me a home where the mackerel roam - And the cod and the anchovies play. - Where often is seen, the cheerful sardine - And the sunfish is shining all day. - -(_CLEM enters from LEFT during song._) - -Phineas: Hi ya Clem. Some tun-a, eh? - -Clem: Frankly, Finny, it smelt. - -Phineas: Ah, quit carping. - -Clem: Did you hear about the commotion in town? - -Phineas: What’s up? - -Clem: Somebody robbed the Oyster bank early this morning. - -Phineas: Great Grunion! Did they get much? - -Clem: Stole all the pearls and a million dollars in gold fish. - -Phineas: Phew! That’s a lot of fish! What’s the Sheriff doing? - -Clem: Oh, he’s floundering around. - -Phineas: Clem, go tell him we’ll help solve this case. - -Clem: O.K. (_CLEM leaves, PHINEAS begins singing “I’m An Old Cow Hand,” -but is violently bumped as the SHERIFF enters LEFT._) - -Phineas: Hey, Sam, did you do that on porpoise? - -Sheriff: Sorry, Finny. I haven’t been so excited since my dogfish had -guppies. - -Phineas: Clem told me about the robbery. Have you found the varmints -yet? - -Sheriff: Nope. They left a red herring on the trail. - -Phineas: Hm. Must have been some daring soles. - -Sheriff: Oh, I don’t know. Only an ’eel would do a thing like that. - -Phineas: I’ll go get my sea horse from the coral and join the posse. - -Sheriff: Fine. See you later. (_SHERIFF leaves. Before PHINEAS can -leave, a girl is heard, crying, and SUSIE enters, LEFT._) - -Susie: Oh, I’m so frightened! Please help me, Phineas. - -Phineas: Stop your blubberin’, little gal. What’s wrong? - -Susie: (_weeping_) I can’t find the Sheriff! I think I know who robbed -the bank, and they’re after me! - -Phineas: Who, gal, who? - -Susie: Oily Oliver Octopus and Louie the Lobster! - -Phineas: Are you sure? Why I remember them when they were just a couple -of perch-snatchers. - -Susie: Oh, yes. I saw them near the bank this morning, but I didn’t -realize what they were going to do. - -Phineas: I’ll go tell the Sheriff. He’ll throw out the fishnet. - -Susie: (_wailing_) Oh, don’t leave me! Stur-geon-na be trouble. - -Phineas: Don’t you fret, Susie, gal. Hide behind that clump of seagrass -till I come back. (_PHINEAS leaves, RIGHT. SUSIE also leaves, LEFT, -apparently to hide. OLIVER enters RIGHT and LOUIE, LEFT._) - -Oliver: Well, we made our get-away all right. - -Louie: Yep, but I’m scared, boss. We’ve got to catch that little -starfish before she talks. - -Oliver: Well, where is she? She came this way. - -Louie: ’Course I kinda hate to hurt her. Gosh, she’s purtier than Marlin -Monroe! - -Oliver: Forget it! Don’t be a sucker for a pretty fish. - -Louie: Reckon you’re right. I’ll go look that-a-way. (_leaves, LEFT._) - -Oliver: (_Looks about, sees SUSIE hiding and drags her on stage from -left._) Aho! So there you are. Come on out. - -Susie: I was right! It WAS you and Louie. - -Oliver: Yes, but you’ll never tell. - -Susie: Unhand me, you cod! Somebody else already knows! - -Oliver: Who? - -Susie: I won’t tell! - -Oliver: Talk, you little sprat! - -Susie: I won’t! I won’t! - -Oliver: So you’re gonna clam up? Wait’ll I get Louie! (_OLIVER leaves, -and SUSIE is alone._) - -Susie: (_wailing_) Land o’Ocean, what shall I do? (_PHINEAS enters, -RIGHT._) - -Phineas: I’ll save you, Susie gal! Go hide again, quick! (_SUSIE -disappears quickly and LOUIE enters from the LEFT._) - -Louie: Hey, Boss, where is she? (_sees PHINEAS._) Out o’ my way, Buster. - -Phineas: I’ll fix you, you lobster mobster! (_PHINEAS rushes at LOUIE, -butts him from underneath with his head and mouth and LOUIE gives a -bounce in the air and collapses over the front of the stage, hanging -limply. PHINEAS leaves._) - -Phineas: (_offstage_) And you! I’ll smush you, you octopus, you! -(_OLIVER flies in after some loud offstage noises, bounces up in the air -and collapses next to LOUIE over the front of the stage._) Clem! -Sheriff! Drag these sidewinders out of here! (_OLIVER and LOUIE go off -limply, as if being dragged. PHINEAS enters, RIGHT._) - -Susie: (_offstage_) Can I come out now? - -Phineas: Come on. It’s all over. They’ve vamoosed to the calaboose. - -Susie: (_enters LEFT_) My hero! You’re a dol-Phin-eas! - -Phineas: Shucks, ’Twarn’t nuthin’. - -Susie: But however did you do it? They’re so strong and powerful! - -Phineas: For years I used to be just another poor fish. But then I -started eating a better breakfast every day, and now I win all my -fights. - -Susie: My goodness! But tell me, what do you eat for breakfast? - -Phineas: Why SEAWEEDIES, Gal, SEAWEEDIES!! - -Susie: My CHAMPION! (_They kiss._) - -_Curtain_ - - - - - SKIT PUPPETS - - -SUSIE STARFISH - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2] - - SEW TO HEART - -Use a pastel colored sock to hide the arm. From white or light pink felt -cut a star-shaped face about 6″ from tip to tip. Round the points for a -soft look. For hair, cut a heart-shaped piece of black, yellow or red -felt. Sew to star face with matching thread. Add eyebrows, long inverted -coy eyelashes, two stitches to suggest a nose and a red rosebud mouth -(Figure 1). Sew the star-face to the sole of the sock (Figure 2). - - -PHINEAS FISH - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2] - - SLIT HERE - SEW CIRCLE HERE - -Use a white sock for our hero. Cut a 1½″ slit in the toe and turn the -sock inside out. Cut a 3½″ circle of pink or red felt, fold and -overstitch around mouth slit (Figure 1). Turn sock right side out and -add a thin lip line. For the fan-shaped tail, cut strip of burlap or -felt and sew to sock cuff, pleating slightly. Be careful not to sew cuff -together. Hide the rough cut edges with a band of felt. (Figure 2). Add -fins and bright colored gills. Button eyes and a few accents of paint -will provide realism. Add a cowboy hat (see page 31) and tie or stitch -to head (Figure 3). To animate Phineas, slip two fingers above the mouth -and two fingers under the mouth. Open and close scissors-fashion. - -Remember to sew a tuck in the heels to make straight tubular socks. -Puppets are made for either hand and stage directions can be reversed. -Dye white socks if colored socks are not available. - - -CLEM CLAM - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - - SLIT HERE - CUT ACROSS HERE - - STITCH TO SOCK - -Make Clem from a light colored sock. The head is shortened by cutting -off the toe of the sock (Figure 1). For the mouth, cut a clam-shaped -piece of pink felt and matching piece from stiff cardboard (Figure 2). -Follow the basic instructions on page 39, stretching the sock to fit the -shape of the mouth pieces. Sew on big, bright blue button eyes, add a -short, colored felt beard under the chin and paint black, clam-like -streaks on top of the head (Figure 3). Make a cowboy hat (see page 31) -and stitch to head. Operate like the basic puppet. - - -SHERIFF SAM SPONGE - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - - SEW SPONGE TO SOCK - -Use light green socks and make the same way as the clown on page 40. -Substitute two thin pieces of yellow cellulose sponge in place of felt -mouth. Use separate pieces for the top and bottom because dry cellulose -sponge is not very pliable (Figure 1). Embroider a mustache, long hair -and sideburns in dark green yarn. Sew on big yellow button eyes. Add a -cowboy hat (see page 31 for hats) with a silver star and stitch a bright -bandana around the neck (Figure 2). Operate like the clown puppet. - - -OILY OLIVER OCTOPUS - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - -A black sock is a must for this black hearted villain. Make the same way -as the clown on page 40, only with a much smaller mouth. Cut two -half-crescents from white felt, sew on head and add small button eyes -(Figure 1). For tentacles, cut eight triangular pieces of material, -about 6″ long and 2″ at the base. Sew the long sides together, stuff -lightly and stitch to body with seams on the bottom (Figure 2). Make a -stovepipe hat, following hat principles on page 31, and stitch to head -at an angle (Figure 3). Operate like the clown puppet. - - -LOUIE THE LOBSTER - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3] - - CUT HERE - SEW ON DOTTED LINE - CUT HERE - FIT CLAWS OVER “ARMS” - -A devilish red sock suits this villain. Turn it inside out. Cut off the -rib and the toe. Sew two 4″ seams, about 1″ apart (Figure 1). Cut out -the material between the seams. Turn sock right side out. Cut off a -piece of the toe, stuff lightly and sew between the “arms” for a head. -Attach two 1″ lengths of red pipe cleaner to the top of the head for -“eye stalks.” Add small bright buttons or beads to the tips. Use a long -plastic thong for the feelers. Push the thong through the head (Figure -2). From stiff cardboard cut out two claws and paint red. Stuff about 1″ -of the “arms” and sew the claws to the stuffed ends. Add four bent red -pipe cleaners to each side of the body for legs (Figure 3). To operate, -use forefinger and little finger to move the “arms.” - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - PENGUIN - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - - CUT HERE - STUFF WELL - FORM A CHEST WITH FINGERS - STUFF WELL - SEW ON WINGS - SEW TO BODY - -BODY: Use cut foot portion from white sock, or if you wish a larger -penguin, take a tuck in the heel making a long tubular piece. Stuff toe -lightly for head and heavier toward the opening which will be the base -of the penguin. Sew opening closed. Tie off at the neck with a formal -black bow-tie (Figure 1). - -WINGS: From black material, felt or oilcloth, cut two pieces for each -wing as shown. Seam, turn and insert a piece of cardboard the same size -and shape. Sew on just below the neck (Figure 2). - -FEET: Cut two webbed feet from black material and two from cardboard. -Sew or glue one of each together and fasten to the base of the penguin -(Figure 3). - -FEATURES: Sew a tiny white button onto a small circle of black felt for -each eye. Make a cone-shaped beak from yellow felt. Draw a line along -each side to indicate the mouth and sew to the front of the head (Figure -4). - -PENGUIN FAMILY: Make Mrs. Penguin slightly smaller, and Junior about -two-thirds size. Mr. Penguin will, of course, wear a top hat (page 31) -while Mrs. Penguin may have to be content with pattern design E-19. A -colorful apron might mollify her feelings though. Junior can wear a top -hat or, since he’s a bit young, a beanie. - - - - - DUCK - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - - STUFF UNTIL PLUMP - GATHER & TIGHTEN BEFORE CLOSING - TURN ENDS DOWN - CUT TWO WINGS - SEW WINGS TO SIDES - SEW TO SOCK HERE - CUT TWO OF THESE - -BODY: Use foot from light colored sock. Stuff plump and round. Sew up -opening in the bottom. Tie off about one-third the way down for the -head. Add a stiff-necked white collar with the tabs turned back around -the neck (Figure 1). - -WINGS: From stiff material of the same color, cut two wings as shown. -Sew one to each side of the body with tip of the wings extending down -and out at the bottom to form the tail (Figure 2). - -FEET: Cut two webbed feet from cardboard and two from stiff material. -Sew one of each together and fasten to the bottom of the duck (Figure -3). - -FEATURES: Sew a round black button onto a large circle of white felt for -each eye. Make the beak from two pieces of felt and sew to the front of -the face (Figure 4). - -OPTIONAL: If you want to make a sailor out of your duck, add a sailor -hat perched at an angle on the top of his head and the regular sailor’s -collar and neckerchief. To make the collar, use a rectangle of blue -material, cut a deep arc from one corner to the other, then overlap -corners at the front. Embroider or paint 3 white stripes along the three -outside edges—add neckerchief. The hat is made from the ribbed end of a -sock. Cut off the cuff, gather rough edge together tightly and turn back -the other edge about 1″. If you prefer a stiff brim, insert a piece of -cardboard around the inside of the turned back section. - - - - - DOUBLE DOLL - - -There are any number of combinations that you might like to try for your -double doll, such as Peppy and Sleepy, Suzy and Sammy or a couple of -clowns. We have chosen Happy and Dumpy. - -BODY: Take a tuck in the heel of the sock so that you have a straight -tubular sock. Cut off the cuff. Stuff plumply and firmly and sew opening -closed. Tie off the middle to divide the sock into two dolls; then tie -off the head about half way down from each end (Figure 1). Do not tie -tightly or doll will be too wobbly. - - [Illustration: Fig. 1] - -FEATURES: The big differences in these two dolls are the features which -are exactly the opposite. Both faces have the same type of nose made by -pulling a piece of the face into a ball or lump and then tying off with -yarn or thread. The eyebrows are embroidered in black yarn. Happy’s -eyebrows are curved in a convex manner while Dumpy’s are concave. Use -large bright buttons for eyes, centering them under the eyebrows. -Embroider a few tears running from Dumpy’s eyes. Dumpy has a turned down -mouth made of red felt while Happy’s mouth is turned up in a big grin. -Cut the two mouths identically and merely reverse the points. A few -frown lines can be embroidered with brown yarn on Dumpy’s forehead -(Figure 2). - - [Illustration: Fig. 2] - -HAIR: Make the hair from pom poms, choosing a style from page 32. Happy -and Dumpy can be either boys or girls or one of each. Make Happy’s hair -from yellow or red pom poms; Dumpy’s from black or brown. Set Dumpy’s -hair lower on the head to accentuate the frowning look. If one or both -heads are boys, add ears of semicircular felt to the sides of the head. - -ARMS AND LEGS: Actually these are one and the same. The legs of one doll -serve as the arms of the other and vice-versa. Make them from a second -sock. Cut out four rectangles about twice the length of the head. Sew -the long edges together and across one end. Turn and stuff lightly. Sew -to the shoulders so that they hang freely. When the doll is flipped -over, one pair should flop to the sides for arms while the other pair -hangs down for the legs (Figure 3). Tie ribbon around the wrist/ankles. - - [Illustration: Fig. 3] - -DRESS: Make a wide flaring skirt from a pattern design on page 29. For -greater contrast sew two different colored pieces together so that when -the doll is flipped over a different colored skirt will appear. Add -blouses, bows, hats or any other bits that you think will make the dolls -look cuter. - - - - - OWL PILLOW - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -BODY: Use foot of a large, dark sock. Stuff firmly, but flatten it as -you do. Sew opening closed. With yarn, tie off the head about one-third -of the way down. - -FEATURES: Sew two white felt circles fairly close together and in the -middle of each sew small yellow buttons for the eyes. Make a small -cone-shaped beak from shiny oilcloth and sew on just below the eyes so -that eyes and nose form a triangle. Accent this triangle by embroidering -a “V” just above the eyes and nose (Figure 1). - -EARS: Cut four pieces as shown from the rest of the sock. Sew two -together for each ear, turn and stitch to top of head, pleating the -front half slightly (Figure 2). - -WINGS: Cut two wings from matching felt and sew one on each side of owl. -Accent with lines of white for feathers (Figure 3). To finish the owl, -embroider or paint wavy lines on the body between the two wings. Also -embroider claws at the bottom, curving them as if clinging to a branch -of a tree. Finally add a big red bow at the neck (Figure 4). If you -prefer a stuffed doll, stuff it round and plump and then add felt feet -at the bottom. - - - - - HUMPTY DUMPTY - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -BODY: Use cut foot portion from sock. Round open edges. Stuff firmly and -sew opening closed. Push stuffing around until you have a nice egg -shape. - -FEATURES: For eyes, sew two small circles of black felt over two large -half-circles of white felt. The black eye pieces can be placed in the -center, to the sides or cross-eyed to get different effects. Add -eyebrows of black felt or embroider them in black yarn. A few stitches -in brown yarn will serve for a nose. Cut the mouth from red felt -(Figure 1). - -ARMS AND LEGS: Make two arms and legs from the second sock. Cut -rectangular pieces, sew along the long sides and across one end. Turn -and stuff. Sew the arms to the sides of the body and the legs to the -bottom. The longer the arms and legs are, the cuter your doll will be. -Tie yarn or ribbon around wrists and ankles. - -HAIR: Make yarn pom poms (see page 32) and sew them to the top of the -head. - -DRESS: From the pattern designs on page 29, make a pair of pants and -tack them on Humpty Dumpty. A colorful cap can be made from pattern -designs on page 31. If you decide to make shoes (page 30) bend the legs -for feet, stitching the tuck. - - - - - WEENIE DOLL - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6] - -Make your Weenie Doll from a dark sock so that his features really show -up. - -BODY: Use cut foot portion from sock. Stuff firmly and sew opening -closed. Tie off one-third the length for the head (Figure 1). - -FEATURES: Cut two ovals of white felt and two smaller ones of black. Sew -or glue the smaller ones to the larger and sew them on the face for the -eyes. Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows in black. Make a circle of red -felt with a stitch across the center for the mouth. Embroider a few -lines in the center of the face for the nose (Figure 2). - -EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears. Roll outer edges, hem and sew to side -of head at eye level (Figure 3). - -ARMS AND FEET: Cut two arms from white felt and two from cardboard. Sew -one of each together, making sure you have one for the right and one for -the left side of the body. Stitch to body (Figure 4). Cut two feet from -black felt and two from cardboard. Sew one of each together and fasten -to the bottom of the doll. Add buckles or bow to the toes (Figure 5). - -CAP: Cut about 3″ from the ribbing of the sock. Gather cut edge together -tightly. Place cap on head, tying a band around the cap about 1″ down -from the gathers and adding a pom pom at the top (Figure 6). - - - - - HOBBY HORSE - - - [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4] - -MOUTH: Cut an oval of cardboard 3″ × 4″ and insert it in the toe of the -sock. Stitch the toe of the sock to the edges of the cardboard to give -the mouth shape. Embroider brown ovals, just above the mouth for the -nostrils. Stuff toe firmly down to the heel of the sock (Figure 1). - -FEATURES: Make eyes from tear-drop shaped pieces of black felt with tiny -brown buttons in the center. With paint add a highlight of white in the -center of each eye. Cut two ears from brown felt or leatherette. Fold in -half and sew to the top of the head. Add a mane made from fringe or -loops of yarn. Start at the top of the head over the eyes, go between -the ears and down the back of the horse (Figure 2). - -RIDING STICK: Push a broomstick into the sock up to the heel. Pad well -all around the broomstick down to the cuff of the sock (Figure 3). Tie -off tightly. Add a halter made from leatherette or oilcloth, carrying -the reins to the back of the horse’s neck. Add festive pom poms and -jingle bells (Figure 4). - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Some instructions reference numbered figures which do not appear in the - printed edition. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's How to Make Sock Toys, by John M. Clapper - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE SOCK TOYS *** - -***** This file should be named 63454-0.txt or 63454-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/4/5/63454/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - |
