summaryrefslogtreecommitdiff
path: root/old/63454-0.txt
diff options
context:
space:
mode:
Diffstat (limited to 'old/63454-0.txt')
-rw-r--r--old/63454-0.txt3141
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 3141 deletions
diff --git a/old/63454-0.txt b/old/63454-0.txt
deleted file mode 100644
index e53078a..0000000
--- a/old/63454-0.txt
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,3141 +0,0 @@
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Sock Toys, by John M. Clapper
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: How to Make Sock Toys
- A Pack-O-Fun Publication
-
-Author: John M. Clapper
-
-Release Date: October 14, 2020 [EBook #63454]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE SOCK TOYS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- How to Make
- SOCK TOYS
-
-
- _for_
- • BAZAARS
- • SHUT-INS
- • GIFTS
- • PROFIT
- _and_
- • FUN
-
- OVER 50 TOYS TO MAKE
-
- $1
-
- A _PACK-O-FUN_® PUBLICATION
-
-
-All designs in this book may be used to make sock toys for gifts or for
-sale by individuals or organizations. It is not necessary to secure
-permission from the publisher.
-
-However, no part of the text or any design illustrations may be
-reproduced by any printing process without the permission of the
-publisher, with the exception of brief quotations used for reviews in
-other publications.
-
- Copyright 1958
- Pack-O-Fun
- 741 Devon Avenue
- Park Ridge, Illinois
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-To a Monkey....
-Whereby This Tale Is Hung
-
-
-This book is dedicated to a monkey, a whimsical little fellow whose body
-is a sock and whose heart is hidden somewhere in cotton stuffing. During
-the summer and early fall of 1955 several of our friends and readers of
-Pack-O-Fun magazine wrote to us about him. We learned that instructions
-on how to make him could be had from the Nelson Knitting Company of
-Rockford, Illinois. We received permission to reprint the instructions
-and thus our new friend, the Red Heel Sock Monkey, made his appearance
-in the November 1955 issue of Pack-O-Fun.
-
-We expected a mild response and were quite unprepared for the deluge of
-mail that poured into our office and the Nelson Knitting Company. We had
-no idea that so many people were interested in making a toy monkey out
-of a few socks. The requests kept coming in long after our supply of
-this issue was exhausted and we had to reprint the instructions as a
-separate folder to keep from disappointing readers all over the country.
-
-We began to think in terms of other sock toys but there were so many
-other things to do that the idea was shelved for just a “little while.”
-Like so many other “little whiles” this one stretched into weeks and
-then months. Our little friend, the Red Heel Sock Monkey, sat in lonely
-splendor.
-
-Several months ago Michelle Graff joined our staff as an artist. Much to
-our delight we learned that she was quite adept at creating and making
-all kinds of stuffed toys. Within a short time the Red Heel Sock Monkey
-was no longer lonely. He had several friends to play with after we had
-turned off the lights and left the office.
-
-One of his most constant playmates was a roguish Sock Elephant. We
-decided to use this packed pachyderm in some of our ads in other
-magazines and once again the response was greater than we had dared
-expect. That settled it. We decided to change a “little while” into
-“now” and publish this book.
-
-We have used the Nelson Red Heel socks for most of the animals, dolls,
-puppets and novelties in this book for many reasons. One very good
-reason is that the red heel lends itself to the creation of lovable
-toys. The brown body gives the feeling of warmth that a stuffed toy must
-have and the white ribbing and toes provide material for faces, feet,
-hands, etc.
-
-Another good reason is that the Nelson Red Heel socks are quite
-inexpensive, selling for about 30c a pair and even less in lots of one
-dozen or more. These prices vary somewhat throughout the country. That
-brings us to our third good reason. They are nationally sold and can be
-found in many variety, dry goods and chain stores. They can also be
-ordered through many mail order houses.
-
-All you need are some socks, scrap materials for stuffing and clothing
-plus a steady eye to thread a needle. The instructions have been written
-as simply and made as complete as possible. Pick out your toys, thread
-your needle and start. And, to make it even more fun, vary the features,
-the trimmings and clothes to bring out your own creative abilities and
-personal touches.
-
- {Edna N. Clapper}
- Edna N. Clapper
-
-
-
-
- TABLE OF CONTENTS
-
-
- To a Monkey 2
- SOCK ANIMALS
- Red Heel Monkey 5
- Elephant 7
- Teddy Bear and Daschund 8
- Polar Bear and Piggy 9
- Donkey and Pony 10
- Kitten and Puppy 11
- Bunny 13
- Squirrel, Chipmunk and Begging Dog 14
- Kangaroo and Baby Puppet Kangaroo 15
- SOCK DOLLS
- Scrappy 17
- Doll Instructions 19
- Girl Doll and Pixie 20
- Soldier and Engineer 21
- Dutch Girl and Scotch Lass 22
- Mexican Boy and Chinese Boy 23
- Eskimo Boy and Hula Girl 24
- Cowboy and Indian 25
- Red Riding Hood and Robin Hood 26
- Santa Claus and Clown 27
- CLOTHING AND SPECIAL EFFECTS
- Jackets and Aprons 28
- Pants and Skirts 29
- Shoes and Boots 30
- Hats, Caps and Hoods 31
- Hair and Facial Expressions 32
- Tips and Tricks 33
- FINGER PUPPETS
- Witch 35
- Katie and Jamie 36
- Pirate and Indian 37
- Lion and Billy Goat 38
- ARM PUPPETS
- Crocodile and Variations 39
- Clown and Ringmaster 40
- PUPPET SKIT AND CHARACTERS
- Skit—Phineas Rides Again 41-42
- Susie Starfish and Phineas Fish 42
- Clem Clam, Sheriff Sam Sponge, Oily Oliver Octopus and Louie
- the Lobster 43
- SOCK NOVELTIES
- Penguin and Duck 45
- Double Dolls 46
- Owl Pillow and Humpty Dumpty 47
- Hobby Horse and Weenie Doll 48
-
- Printed in the U.S.A.
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR MONKEY
-
-
- [Illustration: Step 1]
-
-Turn sock inside out. Start 3″ from white heel and sew two seams ½″
-apart and across end of the rib.
-
- [Illustration: Step 2]
-
-Cut sock between seams to within 1½″ of white heel. This leaves opening
-for stuffing.
-
- [Illustration: Step 3]
-
-Turn sock right side out. Stuff with one hand and mold shape to suit
-with other.
-
- [Illustration: Step 4]
-
-Sew up opening from top to bottom so that legs are spread apart and not
-pulled together.
-
- [Illustration: Step 5]
-
-To shape head, tie loosely at neck with ribbon. For a more floppy head
-tie ribbon tighter.
-
- [Illustration: Step 6]
-
-For feet, bend legs into L-shape for desired foot length and sew crease
-with strong white thread.
-
-
-
-
- RED HEEL MONKEY
-
-
-SOCK NO. 2
-
-CAP: Cut off toe of the sock, leaving ½″ of brown to roll for a trim.
-
-TAIL: Cut a 1″ strip the entire length of the front of the sock. Seam
-and stuff.
-
-MOUTH: Cut the heel from the sock, leaving a brown edge around the
-white. Fasten on lower part of face, whipping around the bottom; stuff
-and finish sewing around top. The mouth can be improved by a running
-stitch of either black or white across the middle.
-
-ARMS: Cut the remaining upper part of the sock into two pieces. Seam and
-stuff.
-
-EARS: Cut the ears from the remaining brown part of the sole of the
-sock.
-
-EYES: The eyes can be made either by sewing on buttons or by
-embroidering them with black thread. In this same operation a nose can
-be indicated by two small embroidered marks.
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
-There are many variations from this basic pattern. Decorations can be
-either pom poms, yarn or bells. Sometimes a fez is used for a cap.
-Jackets and skirts are also used for clothing the monkey.
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 7-15
-
-
- [Illustration: Step 1]
-
-Turn sock inside out. Cut off most of the rib, leaving about 1″ for
-white feet.
-
- [Illustration: Step 2]
-
-Start 3″ from heel and sew two seams, ⅛″ each side of center line and
-across end of rib.
-
- [Illustration: Step 3]
-
-Cut between seams and about 1″ into body to make opening for stuffing.
-Turn sock right side out.
-
- [Illustration: Step 4]
-
-Insert ovals of cardboard or wood to shape feet. Stuff legs and rest of
-sock nice and plump.
-
- [Illustration: Step 5]
-
-Sew up opening in body to bring legs together and to prevent them from
-bowing out.
-
- [Illustration: Step 6]
-
-To shape head, tie a ribbon loosely around neck. Do not tie tightly as
-head will wobble.
-
-
-
-
- ELEPHANT
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-FORELEGS: Measure and cut forelegs from second sock so that body stands
-level—about 5″. Turn inside out, seam along one side and across foot.
-Turn right side out, insert stiff ovals in feet, stuff and stitch to
-body (Figure 1).
-
-MOUTH: Cut off complete heel. Stuff lightly and sew to head. Stitch
-across center to shape mouth (Figure 2).
-
-TRUNK: Use an 8″ strip of sock, tapering from 6″ to 1″. Seam wrong side
-out, turn, stuff and insert wire. (See tips on wiring, page 33.) Sew to
-head above mouth. Insert pipe cleaner tusks (Figure 3).
-
-EARS: For each ear cut two pieces from sock (Figure 4). Seam and turn
-right side out. Sew on level with highest point of trunk.
-
-EYES: Sew on round or oblong buttons set apart. Embroider eyes for small
-children.
-
-TAIL: Make a short roll of material and sew in place.
-
-TRIM: Sew on a fringed or tasselled “blanket” of bright material. Rick
-rack, little bells, ribbons or beads will give a more circusy
-appearance.
-
-
-
-
- TEDDY BEAR
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-For the body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions for the monkey
-on page 5, but leave only 1″ of white at the ends of the legs and stuff
-plumper.
-
-ARMS OR FORELEGS: See instructions for the monkey on page 5, leaving
-only 1″ of white and stuffing plumper.
-
-NOSE: Cut toe from second sock. Stuff lightly and sew to the front of
-the head (Figure 1). Pull the head down to the chest and stitch securely
-(Figure 2).
-
-FEATURES: Embroider a solid V-shaped nose in black yarn. Make three long
-stitches with brown yarn to form upper lip and mouth. Sew on two round
-brown buttons for eyes, spaced well apart (Figure 3).
-
-EARS: Cut four ear pieces from sock. Sew two together, leaving an
-opening to turn. Turn and stitch to side of head, pleating the front
-half to incline ear forward. Repeat with the other ear (Figure 4).
-
-TRIM: Tie a bow of 1″ wide bright ribbon around neck. Or make Mr. Teddy
-Bear a soldier, engineer, cowboy or any other colorful character by
-using the doll costumes shown in this book.
-
-
-
-
- DACHSHUND
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7, but
-stretch the body as long as you can as you stuff and make legs 2″ long
-instead of 5″.
-
-FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7, but make 2″ long.
-
-NOSE: Cut toe from sock and sew into a point on the wrong side (Figure
-1). Turn and stuff lightly. Sew to front of head with seams on the top
-and bottom.
-
-TAIL: From sock cut a strip 3″ long, 1″ wide and sew into a tube. Stitch
-to body.
-
-EARS: Cut four as shown (Figure 2). Seam, leaving an opening to turn.
-Sew unstuffed ears to sides of head, pushing the ears up a little for
-correct angle. Sew to hold in place.
-
-FEATURES: Make two stitches in black yarn (Figure 3) where eyes will be.
-Sew a round dark button inside each. Embroider a solid V-shape nose in
-brown yarn (Figure 4) and add a red felt tongue below mouth (Figure 5).
-
-TRIM: Fasten a narrow strip of red leatherette around neck. Glue sequins
-to this collar or paint little gold dots to resemble studs. For greater
-realism, an inexpensive collar may be used.
-
-
-
-
- POLAR BEAR
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Use white athletic socks. For body (Sock No. 1) follow basic
-instructions on page 7, but make legs about 4″ long.
-
-FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.
-
-NOSE: Cut toe from sock, turn inside out and sew into a point (Figure
-1). Turn and stuff. Sew to the front of the head, pulling it into shape.
-(Polar bears have longer snouts than other types of bears.)
-
-TAIL: Roll a 1″ square of sock into a tiny tail and sew to body.
-
-EARS: Cut two ears from sock, and two from pink felt, petal-shaped
-(Figure 2). Sew sock and felt pieces together leaving an opening for
-turning. Turn right side out and stitch to head, about 2″ apart. Pleat
-the felt side (facing front of head) as you stitch.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider a solid V-shaped nose with black yarn, using three
-stitches for upper lip and mouth (Figure 3). For eyes, use small white
-buttons sewn over brown discs.
-
-TRIM: Fasten a narrow strip of felt around neck, decorate with beads and
-attach a chain or cord. Or, use black leatherette to make a harness
-(Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- PIGGY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7.
-
-FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.
-
-NOSE: Cut toe from sock, insert a small circle of cardboard and stuff
-(Figure 1). This makes the snout. Sew to front of head.
-
-TAIL: Roll a 4″ strip of sock into a tube shape and insert a length of
-wire (see page 33 for tips on wiring). Sew closed and pull one end into
-a point (Figure 2). Sew the other end to body and curl the tail round
-finger to get corkscrew effect.
-
-EARS: Cut four ears from sock as shown (Figure 3). Sew two together,
-turn and sew to side of head. Repeat for other ear.
-
-FEATURES: Cut a pink felt nose (Figure 4) and stitch to front of snout.
-Embroider two stitches for the mouth lines (Figure 5). Since Piggy’s
-eyes are slits, exaggerate them for more expression. Embroider wide
-ovals in brown yarn, adding small brown buttons in the middle. Add a few
-eyelashes.
-
-FEET: Make a stitch in the middle of each foot and pull tight to form
-trotters (Figure 6).
-
-
-
-
- DONKEY ’N’ PONY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 7 · Fig. 8]
-
-
-SOCK NO. 1
-
-Follow basic instructions on page 7 for Steps 1, 2 and 3. To shape neck
-and head, sew a seam tapering from about the middle of the foot to about
-the middle of the toe. (See Figure 1, above.) Then, turn sock right side
-out, stuff and sew as shown in Steps 4 and 5 on page 7. This will form
-the neck. Do not tie, as head is made from separate piece.
-
-
-SOCK NO. 2
-
-FORELEGS: See instructions for Elephant on page 7. Make somewhat
-thinner.
-
-HEAD: Cut toe from sock (Figure 2). Turn inside out and seam. Turn right
-side out and stuff. Sew to neck (Figure 3). The head can be placed at
-various angles (Figure 4). Shape nose, making it a little longer for the
-donkey.
-
-TAIL: For the donkey braid a fairly thin tail from yarn or other
-material with a tuft-like tip. For the pony make the tail much fuller.
-
-EARS: For the donkey, cut two long ears from sock (Figure 5) and two
-from brown felt. Sew sock and felt pieces together, leaving an opening
-for turning. Turn right side out and insert shaped pieces of wire
-(Figure 6). (See page 33 for tips on wiring.) Sew ears to head, pleating
-in front to curl the ears a little. For pony, cut shorter ear pieces and
-omit wire.
-
-FEATURES: For nostrils, embroider two tear-shaped patches in brown yarn.
-For eyes, use two leaf-shaped pieces of black felt sewn to each side of
-the head. Over each piece, sew a flat button slightly smaller than the
-felt. To shape the mouth, make a long stitch with brown yarn across the
-lower front of the face and pinch sock around the mouth stitching to
-form lips (Figure 7).
-
-MANES: A variety of materials can be used for manes. Remember that the
-donkey’s mane is much thinner and stringier than a pony’s mane. For the
-donkey, strands of black yarn can be used or a piece of black felt can
-be cut in a saw-tooth shape with long teeth.
-
-TRIM: Bridles can be made from colorful leatherette. Sew pretty buttons
-over pieces that are stitched together to hide the joints (Figure 8). A
-short piece of chain will serve as a bit. For the donkey, make a
-colorful “blanket” with tasseled edges. Little packs, made from the toes
-of old colored socks can be sewn to the blanket to heighten the effect.
-For the pony, make a shorter “saddle blanket” and add a saddle made from
-an oval piece of leatherette.
-
-
-
-
- KITTEN
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Use white athletic socks. For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic
-instructions on page 7.
-
-FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.
-
-NOSE: Cut complete toe from sock. Stuff lightly and sew to front of
-head, or sew to side to make kitty look to the right or left (Figure 1).
-
-EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears from sock and matching ears from pink
-felt. Sew one of each together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and
-stitch to sides of head (Figure 2).
-
-FEATURES: For eyes, cut two oblong pieces of white felt and sew to face.
-Sew little green buttons, highlighted with specks of white, to felt. Use
-tempera or white india ink for specks. Embroider nose in pink yarn,
-adding three little stitches to form mouth (Figure 3). A scrap of red
-felt sewn to the lower stitch looks like a tongue (Figure 4). For
-whiskers, insert broom straws or brush bristles through face near mouth.
-
-TRIM: Use a big colorful bow with a little bell under the chin. For an
-extra playful look, sew a ball of yarn to front paws.
-
-
-
-
- PUPPY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7.
-
-FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.
-
-NOSE: Cut toe from sock. Turn inside out and stitch across toe to shape
-a square nose (Figure 1). Turn and stuff lightly. Sew to the front of
-head with the seam running side to side (Figure 2).
-
-TAIL: Cut as shown (Figure 3), seam, stuff and sew to body.
-
-EARS: Cut as shown (Figure 4), seam and turn. Sew the 2″ side to the
-head, pleating in front a little to incline the ears forward. Push the
-ears up a bit and hold in position with a few small stitches.
-
-FEATURES: Cut two semi-circular pieces of black felt. With curved side
-up, sew to face just above the nose seam. If desired, the felt may be
-cut into points to look like eyelashes. Add button or embroidered eyes
-and an embroidered nose.
-
-TRIM: A gay felt collar or bright ribbon will do much to achieve a
-lively look.
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 13-15
-
-
-START WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON PAGE 5, STEPS 2 THROUGH 6.
-
-
- Step 7
-
-To shape head, pull white toe down for face and stitch to body. Tie
-loosely at neck with ribbon.
-
- [Illustration: Step 7]
-
-
- Step 8
-
-Push leg against body, hold in place with one hand and stitch to body.
-Repeat for other leg.
-
- [Illustration: Step 8]
-
-
- Step 9
-
-Bend legs into upside down V with white part about 1½″ longer. Stitch to
-hold position.
-
- [Illustration: Step 9]
-
-
- Step 10
-
-Bend white part of leg outward to form foot. Stitch to hold and repeat
-for other foot.
-
- [Illustration: Step 10]
-
-
-
-
- BUNNY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7 and above.
-
-FORELEGS: Cut about 4″ long, turn inside out, seam along one side and
-across the foot (Figure 1). Stuff and sew to body about ½″ apart. To
-keep arms from sagging, insert wires while stuffing. (See page 33 for
-tips on wiring.)
-
-FEATURES: For the nose, embroider a solid “V” in pink yarn. Three
-stitches with black yarn makes the mouth (Figure 2). Sew on bright
-buttons, spaced well apart, for eyes. Add a few curved stitches in black
-for curly eyelashes. Insert broom straws or brush bristles for whiskers.
-
-EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears, 6″ long, from sock and two from pink
-felt (Figure 3). Sew sock and felt pieces together on the wrong side,
-leaving an opening for turning. Double two 12″ lengths of wire into
-petal shapes and insert in each ear, fastening at base of ear. Sew to
-sides of head with pink side forward. Pleat the felt to incline the ears
-forward.
-
-TAIL: Mold a fairly large ball of cotton or use a white yarn pom pom.
-
-TRIM: Use the prettiest bow you have and dot it with sequins and tiny
-spring flowers.
-
-
-
-
- SQUIRREL ’N’ CHIPMUNK
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on pages 7 and 13.
-
-FRONT LEGS: See Bunny’s front legs on page 13.
-
-FEATURES: To make nose, pinch part of face into a little ball and wind
-yarn around it. For pouchy cheeks, use nylon thread or very strong white
-thread, and baste a circle on each side of the nose and ending just
-under the nose (Figure 1). Pluck stuffing into puffs in the middle of
-these circles for cheeks. Tighten stitching to hold cheeks in place.
-Embroider mouth with red yarn and add small brown buttons for eyes. Use
-broom straws or brush bristles for whiskers, pushing them through sides
-of face.
-
-EARS: Cut two pointed ears from sock and two from felt (Figure 2). Sew
-sock and felt pieces together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and
-sew to top sides of head. Pleat felt.
-
-TAIL: Sew a thin strip of sock about 6″ long. Insert a wire and bend to
-shape (Figure 3). Sew to body. Use brown pom poms or jersey loopers to
-build up a bushy tail. Make squirrel’s tail somewhat bushier than the
-chipmunk’s.
-
-STRIPES: Sew strips of black fur or felt down back of chipmunk only,
-spacing them about ½″ apart.
-
-
-
-
- BEGGING DOG
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow basic instructions on pages 7 and 13 with
-the exception of step 7. To pull face upwards stitch across back instead
-of front (Figure 1, above).
-
-FRONT LEGS: See Bunny’s front legs on page 11. To achieve the down paws
-effect insert wires into legs and bend into L-shape (Figure 2). (See
-page 33 for tips on wiring.)
-
-FACE: Cut toe from sock, stuff and sew to head (Figure 3). Add a red pom
-pom for a comical nose. For a doleful mouth, embroider a modified upside
-down V-shape and sew a lolling, long red felt tongue underneath it
-(Figure 4).
-
-EARS: Cut two pieces from sock and two from pink felt (Figure 5). Sew
-together, leaving opening for turning. Turn and sew to side of head with
-ears hanging down.
-
-EYES: Cut circles of brown felt and sew to face. Sew white buttons on
-circles. For a droopy look, cut crescent-shape pieces of felt and sew
-over so that only part of eye buttons show (Figure 6).
-
-TAIL: Make a stubby tail from a roll of sock and sew to body.
-
-TRIM: Add a woe-be-gone hat (see page 31 for hat designs) or a floppy
-ribbon bow.
-
-
-
-
- KANGAROO
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
-For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on pages 7 and 13
-but sew opening in opposite direction so that legs spread apart and
-there is room for the pouch. Stretch legs by pulling before stitching
-into sitting position.
-
-FOREARMS: Follow directions for front legs on page 13, making them
-somewhat thinner and shorter.
-
-FEATURES: Cut toe from sock, turn inside out and sew to a point (Figure
-1). Turn, stuff lightly and sew to head. Mold the front of nose into a
-long, blunt shape, pushing in the point at the end. Embroider eye-lines
-with brown curved lashes (Figure 2). If possible, use crescent-shaped
-buttons or pieces of brown felt for eyes to avoid the “glazed” look of
-round buttons. Embroider mouth with brown yarn (Figure 3).
-
-EARS: Cut four sock ears and sew into pairs (Figure 4). Turn right side
-out, stitch along sides of head and pleat front.
-
-TAIL: Cut from sock and seam, leaving wide end open for stuffing (Figure
-5). Turn right side out, stuff and sew to body.
-
-POUCH: Cut a large triangle of knit to fit across the tummy with one
-point sewn between the legs (Figure 6). Allow the pouch to sag a little
-to leave room for baby kangaroo.
-
-
-
-
- BABY KANGAROO
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Make the baby kangaroo from a small child’s sock in a beige or other
-light color. Insert a cone shaped piece of cardboard in the toe of the
-sock instead of the cardboard roll used in other finger puppets. Also
-for the baby kangaroo, there is no need to take a tuck in the heel, but
-rather let the heel become the top of the head (Figure 1).
-
-FEATURES: Turn the sock inside out and sew the toe to a point. Turn
-right side, add padding in the very tip of the toe; then insert the cone
-in the toe and pad around it up to the heel. Embroider a nose and
-eyelines in brown, mouth in red or pink. Add tiny brown button eyes with
-a dot of white for highlight. Add pink felt ears similar to Mama
-Kangaroo’s (Figure 2).
-
-ARMS: Cut a slit on each side of the sock just below the neck. Be sure
-slits are large enough to fit the fingers for manipulating the puppet.
-Make glove-like fingers from the second sock or the fingers from an old
-glove and sew them to the slits. Be sure not to sew slits closed. The
-best way to avoid this is to turn the puppet inside out, fit the
-“fingers” inside the slit and whip-switch the edges together (Figure 3).
-
-TRIM: Add a big baby blue bow under the chin—not too tight. When not
-acting uppity like a puppet, baby kangaroo rests comfortably in Mama
-Kangaroo’s pouch (Figure 4).
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- SCRAPPY
-
-
- ... Our Fun-Loving, Mischievous Little Mascot!
-
-For those who want a very special doll, we have designed one with all
-the features of a bouncing, dimpled doll right out of a toy show window.
-It’s well worth the extra time and care to make Scrappy.
-
-BASIC DOLL: Use white athletic socks and follow the basic instructions
-on page 19. For a more natural look, quick-dip the socks in a weak,
-lukewarm solution of pink dye and let dry before making the doll.
-
-DIMPLES OR INDENTATIONS: These are quite simple to make. The trick lies
-in pulling a few threads back for the indentation. Use a needle long
-enough to go through the doll and thread it with yarn. Push the needle
-through from the back to the point of the indentation, catch a few of
-the sock threads, push the needle back through, pull both ends of the
-yarn and tie them (Figure 1). To make eye sockets, cheeks and lip lines
-see Tips and Tricks, page 33.
-
-SHAPING BODY: Knot one end of white yarn and make three long stitches at
-the lower back—two that divide the legs from the body and one that
-divides the hips equally (Figure 2). Pull yarn tightly to make
-indentations. Make three dimples in the small of the back and one in the
-tummy.
-
-ARMS AND LEGS: Make a dimple in each elbow and knee. Pull arms around
-into a natural curve, taking a small tuck along the inside of the arm if
-necessary (Figure 3).
-
-FEATURES: Mold the nose by pulling the stuffing into shape and embroider
-or paint tiny nostrils. For the eyes, use round buttons with shanks or
-salvage a pair of eyes from an old toy. Add a spot of white paint to
-each button eye. Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows. Cut a mouth from red
-felt and whip stitch to face. Then sew a white line across the middle to
-divide the lips. The ears are semicircles cut from a piece of sock. Roll
-the edges, hem and sew to the head even with the eyes (Figure 4).
-
-HAIR: Make colorful pom poms, using any of the hair styles on page 32.
-For a short hairdo, outline the hair line on the head before you arrange
-the pom poms.
-
-CLOTHING: Scrappy can be dressed as a boy or a girl in a wide variety of
-costumes. Here’s how we dressed “him” as a little boy.
-
-SWEATER: Use a colorful ribbed sock. Cut it off at the heel and use the
-cuff portion. For armholes, make a slit on each side of the sock about
-1½″ down from the top. Slip sweater on and turn down the top for a
-turtle neck (Figure 5).
-
-PANTS: Cut from black felt, pattern design B-2, page 29. Seam sides,
-turn and fit doll, tucking at the waist as necessary. Add a leatherette
-or plaid shoe-string belt.
-
-JACKET: Cut from bright blue felt, pattern design A-6, page 28. Sew side
-seams and turn right side out. Sew two rows of white thread around all
-the edges for trim. Add a little square pocket and tuck in a colorful
-“hankie.” Sew small white buttons on the front.
-
-TAM: Use bright blue felt, with the band in yellow felt, and follow
-pattern design C-17 on page 31. For a snug fit, fit the yellow band
-around the head, sew the ends together and use it as a guide in cutting
-the circles of blue felt.
-
-SHOES: Cut from red felt, pattern design F-27, page 30. Add shiny
-buckles.
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 17 AND 20-27
-
-
- [Illustration: Step 1]
-
-Turn Sock No. 1 inside out. Stitch across the heel to form a straight
-sock.
-
- [Illustration: Step 2]
-
-Cut 1½″ off rib of sock so that legs are in proportion to length of
-body.
-
- [Illustration: Step 3]
-
-Start 3″ from heel and sew two seams, ⅛″ each side of center line and
-across end of rib.
-
- [Illustration: Step 4]
-
-Cut sock between seams and 1″ farther to make opening for the stuffing.
-
- [Illustration: Step 5]
-
-Turn sock right side out. Stuff foot plumply and tie loosely with string
-to form head.
-
- [Illustration: Step 6]
-
-Pull head forward so that white toe becomes face and stitch to chest
-with strong thread.
-
- [Illustration: Step 7]
-
-Stuff legs and body. Sew up opening and mold figure for desired shape.
-
- [Illustration: Step 8]
-
-Bend end of legs and sew a tuck to hold feet. Tie string around ankles.
-
- [Illustration: Step 9]
-
-From Sock No. 2 cut arms about 5″ long. Turn inside out, seam, turn
-right side and stuff.
-
- [Illustration: Step 10]
-
-Sew arms to sides of body and tie of each wrist with string about 1″
-from end.
-
- [Illustration: Step 11]
-
-Make three long stitches for finger separations and shorter ones for the
-thumbs.
-
- [Illustration: Step 12]
-
-For the ears, cut two 1½″ circles. Fold in half and overcast along
-edges. Sew to head.
-
-
-
-
- GIRL DOLL
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll above.
-
-FEATURES: Stitch black yarn eyelines, add long brown lashes and blue
-button eyes. Make three short stitches to form upturned nose. Cut a
-smiling mouth from red felt. Add a long stitch of white yarn to separate
-lips (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Choose from styles on page 32 and add a big bow ribbon to top of
-head.
-
-DRESS: Make a petticoat from pattern design A-13, page 29. Fit the
-petticoat by gathering at the waist and fastening at the back (Figure
-2). Cut a skirt from the same pattern design. Use pattern design B-7,
-page 28, for the blouse. Gather the skirt and sew to blouse to make
-dress. Edge dress with rick rack or ribbon and fit to doll with opening
-in the back. Sew little buttons down the back to close dress. Tie a wide
-ribbon around waist, ending with a big bow.
-
-SHOES: Use matching felt and cut from pattern design F-27, page 30.
-
-PANTIES: Cut from pattern design C-3, page 29 in white cotton and trim
-to match dress.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Use a curtain ring for a bracelet. A string of beads
-around the neck will hide the seam.
-
-
-
-
- PIXIE
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider slanted eyes, wide open, and turn the eyebrows up a
-little at the outer edge. With red yarn, make a smiling mouth. The nose
-is an arc of brown yarn (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See method H-29, page 32.
-
-EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears from pink felt. Sew to head, folding a
-little as you sew (Figure 2).
-
-JACKET: In green felt or semi-stiff material, cut from pattern design
-A-6, page 28. Seam and fit to doll, opening at the front. Cut a “V” in
-the back at the waist to form tails and sew a small button at the top of
-the “V”. Trim sleeves into points. Tie a tiny bow at the neck front to
-pull the jacket closed (Figure 3).
-
-PANTS: Use green or yellow felt, cut from pattern B-2, page 29. Trim the
-leg edges to match the jacket. Fit to body and hide raw edges with a
-strip of ribbon or felt.
-
-SHOES: Use brown felt and cut from pattern design C-24, page 30. Sew a
-little jingle bell to toes and trim edges (Figure 4).
-
-HAT: In green or yellow felt cut eight petal shaped pieces. Stitch
-together by overlapping petals into a large daisy. Overlap last two
-petals to fit head (Figure 5). Stitch a bell or pom pom on top.
-
-
-
-
- SOLDIER
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider eyes in brown yarn, nose in beige and mouth in red
-(Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Choose from methods on page 32.
-
-PANTS: Cut from black or dark blue material, pattern design A-1,
-page 29. Sew a narrow stripe down outside of legs. Tuck waistline to
-fit.
-
-COAT: Use bright red felt, or semi-stiff material, following pattern
-design A-6, page 28. Do not slit at middle front, rather slit to one
-side (Figure 2). To hide stitches, sew on a strip of felt, and add four
-small brass buttons down each side. Use white felt strips, ½″ by 11″ for
-cross piping. Cover front and back seams with a black leatherette belt.
-Make two epaulettes for shoulders from 1½″ long fringed ovals of yellow
-felt (Figure 3).
-
-SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30.
-
-HAT: Cut from black felt, pattern design B-16, page 31. Loop gold or
-white silk cord across front and add a narrow chin strap of black felt
-(Figure 4).
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Sew a little buckle to the front of each shoe. Cut a
-strip of ½″ wide white felt to fit snugly around the neck. Tuck coat
-into this band and fasten in front with a brass button. Use the same
-cord material as on hat and loop around coat buttons (Figure 5).
-
-
-
-
- ENGINEER
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Sew on two small brown buttons for eyes. Embroider lashes and
-upturned nose with brown yarn (Figure 1). A quarter-size ring of red
-felt makes a mouth.
-
-HAIR: See page 32 for short hair styles.
-
-OVERALLS: Cut from blue and white striped material, pattern design A-1,
-page 29. Seam and turn. Sew a 2″ square of the same material to each
-side for pockets and a 2″ square, hemmed on three sides, for bib. For
-straps, use two strips of material and add tiny buckles in front (Figure
-2).
-
-SHIRT: Cut from soft blue material, pattern B-7, page 28, and fit to
-body, tucking in at waist.
-
-HAT: Cut a ½″ wide strip of black felt to fit around the head. From the
-same overall material, cut a 7″ circle and gather to fit band (Figure
-3). A visor is made from a 3″ circle of black felt folded in half and
-sewn around edges. Stitch to front of hat.
-
-SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a small red tri-cornered handkerchief around neck
-and tuck a bright scrap of material in one pocket.
-
-
-
-
- DUTCH GIRL
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-See basic instruction for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Stitch a black eyeline with yarn, add long black lashes and
-blue button eyes. Make three stitches to form a turned up nose. Cut a
-mouth from red felt and sew to face. Separate lips with a long white
-stitch (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See method N-34, page 32 for braided hair.
-
-DRESS: Cut blouse from soft blue material, pattern design B-7, page 28.
-Fit to doll with opening at back. Cut skirt from the same material,
-using pattern design B-14, page 29. Gather around waist with small
-stitches and fit over blouse. Trim both pieces with rick rack or ribbon.
-The apron is a 6″ square of white organdy gathered at one edge and sewn
-to an 18″ strip of white ribbon. Tie the apron over the waist to hide
-the seam (Figure 2).
-
-PANTIES: Cut from white cotton material, pattern design C-3, page 29 and
-trim with narrow lace.
-
-SHOES: Use felt to cut from pattern design B-23, page 30. Embroider a
-tiny flower on each toe.
-
-HAT: Use a 3″ by 11″ piece of crisp white fabric and a smaller piece for
-the back (Figure 3). Gather the larger piece to fit the back and hem
-edges. Turn the lower corners of the hat back from the face. A tiny
-safety pin will hold the hat in place.
-
-
-
-
- SCOTCH LASS
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Follow instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Cut one dime-size circle of white felt and cut it into two.
-Sew each half on for an eye, curved side up. Sew tiny flat buttons to
-one side. With black yarn, make six long lashes over each eye (Figure
-1).
-
-HAIR: Choose a style on page 32.
-
-BLOUSE: Cut from soft white material, pattern design B-7, page 28, and
-dress doll with opening in back.
-
-SKIRT: Use permanently pleated plaid material and cut a skirt that
-reaches to the knees (Figure 2). Sew to blouse with opening at back. Use
-a strip of brown felt or oilcloth to hide the seam. Over this, stitch a
-circle of fur about 4″ across. The Scotch call this a sporran (Figure
-3). Drape a length of ribbon, about 1″ wide and 9″ long, over one
-shoulder, tucking the ends under the belt.
-
-HAT: Cut from green or red felt (to match dress) from pattern design
-C-17, page 31. Add a tiny pom pom for a gay touch.
-
-SHOES: Cut from black felt or oilcloth from pattern design A-22,
-page 30.
-
-PANTIES: If desired, cut from black felt or jersey pattern C-3, page 29.
-
-
-
-
- MEXICAN BOY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider eyes in black yarn, nose in brown. Cut a smiling
-mouth from red felt, snipping out some from the middle (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See page 32 for choice of styles.
-
-JACKET: Cut from bright colored felt, pattern design A-6, page 28. Make
-a scarf in striped cloth or from a brightly striped sock to drape across
-one shoulder (Figure 2).
-
-PANTS: Cut from brown or black material following pattern design D-4,
-page 29. Trim sides of legs with rick rack or ribbon. Fit to body,
-tucking at waist with the jacket inside the pants. To hide the seam,
-fasten a cummerbund of red felt or oilcloth.
-
-SHOES: Cut in black felt from pattern design A-22, page 30. Decorate
-with sequins or beads.
-
-HAT: Cut from matching felt, pattern A-15, page 31. Shape with fingers
-into a high Mexican hat (Figure 3).
-
-
-
-
- CHINESE BOY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider slanted eyes in black yarn, nose in brown and
-smiling mouth in red (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Follow method M-33, page 32, stitching yarn at the back of the
-head only to braid into a pigtail.
-
-JACKET: Use colorful satin or shiny cotton and cut from pattern design
-A-6, page 28. Make sleeves wider at the wrist end. Opening will be in
-the front.
-
-PANTS: In contrasting satin material, cut from pattern design E-5, page
-29. Leave a 1″ opening at the ankle of each leg (Figure 2).
-
-SHOES: Cut from red felt from pattern design A-22, page 30. Turn tops of
-shoes down a bit and trim with sequins or beads.
-
-HAT: Cut a circle of felt 8″ across. Make a slit from edge to the
-middle. Overlap slit edges to form a coolie hat (Figure 3). Then measure
-around the head and make a ½″ wide band of felt. Whip stitch this to the
-inside of the coolie hat.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: The more beads, sequins and embroidery on the
-clothes, the prettier the finished doll will look.
-
-
-
-
- ESKIMO BOY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider almond-shaped eyes in black yarn, nose in beige and
-smiling mouth in red (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See method P-28, page 32.
-
-JACKET: Use terry cloth, fur or similar material and cut from pattern
-design A-6, page 29.
-
-PANTS: Use the same material and cut from pattern design A-1, page 29.
-Fit jacket over pants and add leatherette belt if desired (Figure 2).
-
-BOOTS: Cut from same material following pattern design A-22, page 30.
-Use bright color thread to make a design on boots (Figure 3).
-
-HOOD: Cut the toe from second sock and slit from raw edge to tip of toe
-(Figure 4). Whip stitch raw edges. Sew a band of pom poms (see method
-P-28, page 32) or a strip of fur along edge that fits around face. A
-second type of parka can be made from design E-19, page 31. Trim with
-pom poms or fur.
-
-
-
-
- HULA GIRL
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: For eyes, sew two white oval pieces of felt to face. Embroider
-a line across each one, stitching a small brown button just below. Cut a
-mouth-shaped piece of red felt and sew into place. A small up-turned
-nose can be embroidered in brown yarn (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Make black yarn pom poms (see P-28, page 32) and sew closely to
-head.
-
-DRESS: For a halter top, cut a 3″ wide strip of gay soft material,
-gather a little along bottom and tie around body above waist. Make a
-tuck at the middle front (Figure 2). For the hulu skirt use raffia, yarn
-or strips of dyed nylon stocking. Wind yarn around a piece of cardboard
-6″ wide about 100 times. Slip a 12″ length of ribbon under loops,
-leaving ends free (Figure 3). Cut opposite edge of loops, remove
-carefully and tie around waist (Figure 4). Over this fit a 1″ wide
-ribbon.
-
-PANTIES: Cut from the same material as top piece, pattern design C-3,
-page 29.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Push small curtain rings over waists and ankles.
-Stitch to ears for earrings. Fasten a string of beads around neck to
-hide seam. Tuck an artificial flower into the hair. Twist several
-colored pipe cleaners together to make a lei.
-
-
-
-
- COWBOY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Use brown yarn for eyebrows, a line of black for eyelids, nose
-and mouth. Sew on two flat buttons for eyes (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See page 32 for short hair styles.
-
-DRESS: Cut a shirt from checkered material, pattern design A-6, page 28.
-Seam and fit to body with opening at front. Sew tiny white buttons down
-front to hide seam. Cut pants from pattern design E-5, page 29, in brown
-or beige material. Seam and turn. Pleat pants at waist to fit over
-shirt. Cut leatherette chaparejos from pattern design A-1, page 29,
-cutting away top as indicated. Use a 1″ width of brown leatherette for
-belt and finish with a little buckle. Tie a bright three-cornered
-kerchief around neck (Figure 2).
-
-HAT: Cut from beige felt, pattern A-15, page 31. Shape with fingers
-(Figure 3).
-
-BOOTS: Cut in black or brown felt from pattern design E-25, page 30.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Sew loops of string or thin rope to one hand.
-Holsters can be cut from leatherette (Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- INDIAN
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Sew round brown button eyes over dime-size circles of white
-felt. Embroider eyebrows in black yarn, nose in brown and mouth in red
-yarn (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See pattern design K-31, page 32. Braid in two parts, one each
-side of the face.
-
-JACKET: Use brown or beige material and cut from pattern design A-6,
-page 28. Sew sides, leaving a 1″ slit at waist (Figure 2). Stitch
-colored fringe, rick rack or beads along the front and bottom of the
-jacket. Paint, glue or sew colorful Indian sign on back.
-
-PANTS: Use the same material and follow pattern design A-1, page 29.
-Trim outside of each leg with rick rack or fringe.
-
-HEADDRESS: Fasten a ½″ wide strip of oilcloth or felt around head,
-tucking a bright feather in at the back (Figure 3). Beads or sequins can
-be glued to the band for a more colorful effect.
-
-MOCCASINS: Cut from colored felt following pattern design A-22, page 30.
-Turn down the edges and glue on beads or sequins.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a string of the brightest beads you can find
-around the neck to hide the seam.
-
-
-
-
- RED RIDING HOOD
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider eyebrows, lashes and nose in brown yarn. Use small
-blue beads or buttons for eyes, red felt for mouth (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: See J-30, page 32 for pony tail hair style.
-
-DRESS: Cut blouse from any bright material, except red, pattern design
-C-8, page 28. Cut skirt from same material, design B-14, page 29. Gather
-around waist and sew to blouse, with opening at the back (Figure 2). Tie
-a ribbon around the waist to hide the seam.
-
-SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design F-27, page 30. Sew a tiny
-flower to the toe of each shoe.
-
-CLOAK: Use a piece of red material 8″ long by 14″ wide. Hem all sides.
-Gather along one 14″ side to fit around neck (Figure 3). Cut hood from
-pattern design P-36. Gather along neck edge and sew to cloak. Tie a
-strip of white ribbon around neck to hide the seam.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Wire a bunch of artificial flowers to one hand
-(Figure 4) or a tiny basket over one arm. Make panties and a petticoat
-from pattern designs if desired.
-
-
-
-
- ROBIN HOOD
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
- GATHER AROUND PANTS LEGS FOR DOUBLET
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Use brown yarn for eyebrows and nose; red yarn for a smiling
-mouth. The flat brown buttons with a dot of white on each make the eyes
-(Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Use method H-29, page 32.
-
-TUNIC: Use green felt or a semi-stiff material and cut from pattern
-design A-6, page 28. Cut a 7″ circle of brown felt and remove a portion
-from the middle 2½″ across. Slit from edge to middle to fit over the
-head. Scallop around outer edge. This collar fits over the jacket with
-opening in front. Punch three holes on each side and lace with narrow
-ribbon (Figure 2).
-
-PANTS: Use soft green material and cut from pattern design B-2, page 29.
-If the material stretches easily, make the pants tighter than the
-design, since Robin Hood wears tights. Fit to body, tucking at waist.
-Fit tunic over pants, add belt and buckle.
-
-SHOES: Make from green felt or similar material following pattern design
-A-22, page 30. Cut a “V” shaped slit at each side of shoes or roll the
-top down slightly (Figure 3).
-
-CAP: Cut from green felt following pattern design D-18, page 31. After
-the cap is sewn on the head, turn the edge up about ½″ at the back.
-Attach a long red feather for color.
-
-
-
-
- SANTA CLAUS
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: Sew a small round red bead for nose. Embroider merry blue eyes
-in yarn, and add heavy white yarn eyebrows. Cut and sew a
-crescent-shaped piece of red felt for a smiling mouth (Figure 1).
-
-SUIT: Use red material, cut and sew coat from pattern design A-6, page
-28, with opening in front. Cut pants from pattern design A-1, page 29.
-Sew and tuck at waist to fit body.
-
-BOOTS: Make from black felt or oilcloth, pattern D-25, page 30. Sew a
-tiny jingle bell to each boot.
-
-CAP: From the same material as suit, cut a piece 8″ × 12″. Sew the
-shorter sides together to form a tube. Gather one end to close.
-
-FUR TRIM: Strips of white fur, terry cloth or rolled white cotton make
-effective edgings. Sew around cap, neck, front and bottom edges of coat
-(Figure 2).
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a bow of ribbon to a Christmas bell and wire to
-one hand (Figure 3). Sew a jingle bell to gathered end of cap. Around
-the waist, fasten a 1″ wide black belt with a buckle in front. Form a
-beard (from cap to chest) and moustache of white cotton or fur and sew
-to face (Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- CLOWN DOLL
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.
-
-FEATURES: For the nose, sew on a large red button. Use two small white
-buttons with spots of black painted on, for eyes. Embroider highly
-arched eyebrows in black yarn. Cut a crescent-shaped large mouth from
-red felt. A single white yarn stitch will divide the lips (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Make orange or yellow pom poms (see P-28, page 32) and stitch to
-head, sideburn fashion (Figure 2).
-
-SUIT: Use bright colored material for jacket and follow pattern design
-A-6, page 28. Seam and turn. Gather wrists to fit arms. Cut pants from
-pattern design D-4, page 29. Seam; turn and gather waist slightly. Sew
-to jacket to make one garment. Gather legs to fit ankles.
-
-HAT: Make a cone from white felt and sew to head at a rakish angle. Turn
-edges up ½″. Stitch two red pom poms to front of hat (Figure 3).
-
-SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30. Make foot much
-longer and sew pom poms to tips of toes.
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: Make a ruffle of 2″ wide stiff net to fit around the
-neck (Figure 4). Do the same for wrists and ankles. Sew pom poms down
-the front. Add belt over waist seam.
-
-
-
-
- JACKETS ’N’ APRONS
-
-
- [Illustration: A6 LONG SLEEVE (CUT TWO)]
-
- CUT ON DOTTED LINES
- CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY
-
- [Illustration: D9 SLEEVELESS (CUT TWO)]
-
- CUT ALONG DOTTED LINES
- CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY
-
- [Illustration: C8 TUNIC STYLE (CUT TWO)]
-
- CUT ALONG DOTTED LINE
- CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY
- SEW ALONG HERE
-
- [Illustration: B7 SHORT SLEEVE (CUT TWO)]
-
- CUT ALONG DOTTED LINES
- CUT ALONG HERE ONE PIECE ONLY
-
- [Illustration: A10 APRON]
-
- [Illustration: B11 APRON]
-
- [Illustration: C12 APRON]
-
-
-
-
- PANTS ’N’ SKIRTS
-
-
- [Illustration: A1 LONG PANTS AND CHAPS (CUT TWO)]
-
- SEW ON DOTTED LINES
-
- [Illustration: B2 SHORT PANTS (CUT TWO)]
-
- [Illustration: C3 PANTIES (CUT TWO)]
-
- CUT ON DOTTED LINES
-
- [Illustration: D4 WIDE PANTS (CUT TWO)]
-
- SEW ALONG THIS LINE
- CUT HERE
- SEW ALONG THIS LINE
-
- [Illustration: E5 NARROW PANTS (CUT TWO)]
-
- CUT ON DOTTED LINES
-
- [Illustration: A13 LONG SKIRT (CUT ONE)]
-
- GATHER ALONG THIS EDGE
- CUT ON DOTTED LINE
-
- [Illustration: B14 SHORT SKIRT (CUT ONE)]
-
- GATHER ALONG THIS EDGE
- CUT ON DOTTED LINE
-
-
-
-
- SHOES ’N’ BOOTS
-
-
- [Illustration: A22 LACED SHOE]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT SOLE
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
- ④ LACE
-
- [Illustration: B23 DUTCH SHOE]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT SOLE
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
- ④ TURN DOWN
-
- [Illustration: C24 POINTED SHOE]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT SOLE
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
- ④ TURN DOWN
-
- [Illustration: D25-E25 BOOTS]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT SOLE
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
- ④ LACE, IF DESIRED
-
- [Illustration: E26 LOW BOOT]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT SOLE
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
-
- [Illustration: F27 SLIPPER]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT SOLE
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
-
-
-
-
- HATS—CAPS—HOODS
-
-
- [Illustration: A15 BRIM HAT]
-
- ① BRIM
- ② TOP
- ③ SEW TOGETHER
-
- [Illustration: B16 TOP HAT]
-
- ① BRIM
- ② TOP
- ③ SIDES
- ④ SEW
-
- [Illustration: C17 TAM]
-
- ① CUT TOP
- ② CUT BOTTOM
- ③ BAND
- ④ SEW BAND
-
- [Illustration: D18 ROBIN HOOD]
-
- ① CUT HAT
- ② SEW
-
- [Illustration: E19 DUTCH BONNET]
-
- ① CUT HAT
- ② CUT BACK
- ③ SEW
-
- [Illustration: P36-F20 HOODS]
-
- ① CUT
- ② SEAM
- ③ SEW HEAD BAND
-
- [Illustration: G21 COOLIE]
-
- ① CUT HAT, SLIT TO CENTER
- ② JOIN EDGES
- ③ SEW BAND
-
- [Illustration: CONE HAT]
-
- ① CUT TRIANGLE
- ② MAKE CONE
- ③ TURN EDGE UP
-
- [Illustration: STOCKING CAP]
-
- ① CUT OFF TOE
- ② HEM RAW EDGE
-
-
-
-
- HAIR ’N’ FACIAL EXPRESSIONS
-
-
- [Illustration: H29 SHORT LOOP]
-
- ① DRAW HAIRLINE
- ② MAKE LOOPS
- ③ COVER
-
- [Illustration: P28 POM POMS]
-
- ① WIND YARN
- ② CUT
- ③ SEW TO HEAD
-
- [Illustration: J30 PONY TAIL]
-
- ① MAKE LOOPS
- ② COVER HEAD
- ③ PULL BACK
-
- [Illustration: K31 BANGS]
-
- ① SEW DOWN CENTER (bangs)
- ② SEW CENTER (sides)
- ③ SIDES OVER BANGS
-
- [Illustration: L32 CREW CUT]
-
- ① MAKE LONG LOOPS
- ② CUT LOOPS
- ③ COVER HEAD
-
- [Illustration: M33 STRAIGHT]
-
- ① USE SINGLE STRAND
- ② FORM PARTING
- ③ COVER HEAD
-
- [Illustration: N34 BRAIDS]
-
- ① SEW DOWN CENTER
- ② ARRANGE HAIR
- ③ BRAID
-
- [Illustration: FACIAL EXPRESSIONS]
-
- MONKEY
- SLEEPING
- BOY
- GIRL
- ORIENTAL
- CLOWN
- SAD
- BABY
-
-
-
-
- TIPS ’N’ TRICKS
-
-
-SOCK SIZES: The animals and dolls in this book were made from size 13
-socks; the puppets were made from size 9 socks. The clothing pattern
-designs will fit toys made from these sizes.
-
-STUFFING: We used kapok for ease in packing and shaping. Nylon fluff,
-dacron filling, shredded foam rubber or lint from an automatic dryer
-will work as well. Old nylon hose and other cloth scraps tend to become
-lumpy. Use a pencil or dowel for packing stuffing in narrow places.
-Clean stuffed toys by dry sudsing.
-
-WIRING: Stove pipe wire or similar types work fine. Coat hanger wire is
-too thick and hard to bend. Always bend wire ends up and in to prevent
-them from working through. Wraps wires with adhesive tape or string.
-Dabs of cement on the wire will hold string in place (Figure 1). Insert
-wires straight and bend the completed tail, ears and so forth.
-
- [Illustration: Figure 1]
-
- BEND ENDS
- WRAP ENDS
- ANIMAL LEGS
- HUMAN LEGS
-
-SHAPING: Toys can be molded by pushing or pulling the stuffing with the
-fingers. An occasional stitch will help hold the shape. To mold chubby
-cheeks, make circles of small stitches, pluck the stuffing up in the
-circles, pull the ends of the thread together and tie off (Figure 2).
-
- [Illustration: Figure 2]
-
- MAKING DIMPLES
- GATHER CHEEKS
- PULL STITCHES TO SHAPE CHEEKS
-
-Indentations and dimples are made by pulling a few sock threads back
-into the toy. This is done by pushing a threaded needle through from the
-back, catching a few sock threads and pushing the needle back again.
-Pulling on the needle thread pulls the sock threads in. Repeat for the
-desired indentations and tie off. Figure 3 shows how this is done for
-eye sockets. For toys with side eyes (bunnies, donkeys, etc.) work from
-eye to eye. For more natural lip lines, catch several sock threads in
-shallow arcs over and under the lips and in a straight line between the
-lips (Figure 4). See Scrappy on page 17 for ideas on where to put
-dimples. Use a darning needle to push through the head or body. Lightly
-pencilled guide lines are helpful.
-
- [Illustration: Figure 3]
-
- SETTING IN DOLL’S EYES (BACK TO FRONT)
- SETTING IN BUNNY’S EYES (SIDE TO SIDE)
-
- [Illustration: Figure 4]
-
- MAKE STITCHES AROUND MOUTH AND ACROSS LIPS
- WORKING FROM BACK TO FRONT
-
-FEATURES: To give the face a flesh colored look, dip the toe of the sock
-in a weak solution of pink dye before the sock is cut and stuffed. Be
-sure the solution is lukewarm. For a more professional look, sew flesh
-colored stockinet over the face after the features have been molded and
-stitched into shape (Figure 5).
-
- [Illustration: Figure 5]
-
- MOLD FEATURES BY PINCHING AND STITCHING
- THEN SEW STOCKINET TIGHTLY OVER FACE WITHOUT FLATTENING
-
-EYES: If you plan to make several toys, especially animals, invest in
-manufactured eyes. Or, use eyes from discarded toys. Shoe buttons also
-make very good eyes since they have shanks. Add a highlight speck of
-white paint to each button eye to avoid that blank look. Never use eyes
-that are too small unless you want an older or mean look.
-
-HAIR: Inexpensive wigs, or ones from discarded dolls, can be substituted
-for pom poms and scrap fur. Pencil guide lines on the head before sewing
-on pom poms.
-
-FACIAL EXPRESSIONS: Much can be done to accentuate features and to give
-toys individuality by embroidering or using felt eyebrows, eyelashes,
-wrinkles, crinkles and so forth. Felt pieces should be glued on or sewn
-with tiny stitches in matching thread. We used the satin stitch for
-embroidered features (Figure 6).
-
- [Illustration: Figure 6]
-
- BLACK CENTER
- WHITE HIGHLIGHT
- BLUE
- SATIN STITCH MOUTH
- SATIN STITCH EYE
-
-CLOTHING: Use freshly laundered and pressed materials—it’s well worth
-the extra effort. Avoid patterned materials that are out of proportion
-to the toys. Crayons (pressed well into the fabric) or textile paints
-can be used to make small pattern designs. Tempera paints tend to wash
-out. Choose materials that do not easily unravel.
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- FINGER PUPPETS
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-MAKING AND STUFFING HEAD: Insert a short piece of paper towel roll in
-the toe of the sock, then push stuffing up around it until the head is
-plump and round (Figure 1). Tie a ribbon around the neck and stitch in
-place to keep it from slipping (Figure 2). Features can be added and the
-face pushed into various shapes. The finger puppets on pages 35-38 are
-just a few of the endless variations that can be made.
-
-ARMS: Make a slit on each side of the sock below the neck—just large
-enough for your thumb and little finger. If desired, little glove-like
-fingers can be sewn over the openings, otherwise just whip stitch the
-edge (Figure 3). Add appropriate clothes.
-
-TO OPERATE: Push your index finger and second finger into the cardboard
-roll; and thumb and little finger into the slits on the side (Figure 4).
-Head can be bobbed up and down or sideways by moving the fingers inside
-the cardboard roll while the thumb and little finger can move together
-and apart to grasp articles, wave, and so on.
-
-
-
-
- WITCH
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions above for finger puppets.
-
-NOSE: Use the red heel of another sock or a piece of felt. Cut in a
-triangular shape, sew the long sides together, turn and stuff lightly.
-Bend for a hooked nose and sew to face (Figure 1).
-
-MOUTH: Sew on an upside down crescent-shaped piece of felt.
-
-EYES: Sew on two black buttons, close together over nose. Embroider
-forbidding black eyebrows.
-
-HAIR: Add scraggly black hair by sewing on loops of black yarn in
-various lengths and cutting the ends open (Figure 2).
-
-CLOAK: Use a piece of dark material about 12″ × 15″. Fold in half
-lengthwise. Sew across one end starting at the corner of the folded edge
-and tapering down to a point 2″ from the top of the open edge (Figure
-3). The highest point becomes the peak of the hood. Turn right side out.
-Gather the material about 4″ down from the front of the hood to fit
-around the neck of the puppet. Stitch ribbon over gathers and tie ends
-at front. Turn front edges of hood back about 1″ and hem rough edges
-(Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- KATIE ’N’ JAMIE
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 5 · Fig. 6 · Fig. 7 · Fig. 8]
-
-Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.
-
-LEGS: Cut the white ribbings from two socks to make the legs. Cut each
-ribbing lengthwise and sew down the long sides and across one end. Turn
-and stuff lightly. Sew the legs to the front of the puppet sock opposite
-the heel so that the puppet appears to “sit” when propped over the edge
-of a stage. Tie ribbon around the ankles (Figure 1). For more realistic
-legs with feet, follow methods used for dolls on pages 17 and 19.
-
-HAIR: See page 32 for hair styles. Make both from the same color yarn.
-
-FEATURES: Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows in black yarn. Mouths are red
-felt. Sew an upturned nose with beige yarn (Figure 2).
-
-BLOUSE: Cut Katie’s blouse from two pieces of white material (Figure 3).
-Sew together at shoulders, leaving a space for neck and then down sides
-leaving arm holes. Pull up over bottom of puppet. Add a wide lace collar
-to hide shoulder seams and short lace edging around arm holes.
-
-SKIRT: Cut a 10″ circle of felt and remove a 3″ circle from the center.
-Slit up the back and overlap to fit around the puppet. Fasten with a
-snap. Add shoulder straps of the same material to keep the skirt from
-slipping. Trim the skirt and straps with embroidery or sequins (Figure
-4).
-
-SHIRT: Cut Jamie’s shirt from the same white material and stitch to the
-body in the same way. Cut a collar-shaped piece of material and stitch
-around the neck. Whip stitch arm holes. Add buttons down front of shirt
-(Figure 5).
-
-PANTS: Cut the pants as shown from the same felt material as the
-skirt—pointed piece for the front (Figure 6). Sew the point down onto
-the sock between the legs. Back piece will actually look like a skirt
-and is merely there to make short pants appear complete. Make suspenders
-from the same material and attach to the pants with tiny buttons.
-
-HATS: For Katie, make a bonnet as shown and tie to the head with ribbon
-bow under chin (Figure 7). Jamie wears a beanie made from the toe of a
-sock. Roll back the brim and add a pom pom to the top (Figure 8).
-
-SHOES: If you use more elaborate legs with feet, follow the shoe pattern
-designs on page 30 making about ½ size. Remember to sew the shoes to the
-feet rather than try to fit shoes over feet.
-
-
-
-
- PIRATE
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
- MAKE PATCH
-
-Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.
-
-NOSE AND EYES: Pinch a small portion of the sock together in the middle
-of the face and tie off—dab with red paint. Sew on one button eye and
-make a black patch for the other. Make evil looking black eyebrows from
-yarn (Figure 1).
-
-MOUTH: From red felt, cut a wide, sly, grinning mouth. Remove a small
-portion from the center to give an open grin. Add a gruesome tooth or
-two and a villainous black mustache (Figure 2).
-
-BEARD: Add yarn or fringed felt around the chin and sides of the face.
-At the top of the beard, add a few longer strands of wild looking hair
-(Figure 3).
-
-DRESS: Make a bandana from bright spotted material and tie it around the
-top of the head, knotting the ends at one side. Hang brass curtain rings
-on for earrings. For the shirt, take a black colored sock and cut it off
-at the heel. For arm holes, make a slit on each about 1″ down from the
-top of the cuff. Slip over the puppet and turn down top for a turtle
-neck effect. Add a belt from leatherette and paint the skull and cross
-bones in the center (Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- INDIAN
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.
-
-FEATURES: Use two round brown buttons for eyes—paint on a spot of white
-for highlight. Embroider brows in black and mouth in red. Add small
-button nose (Figure 1).
-
-HAIR: Wind black yarn around a card 3″ wide, about 20 times. Gather
-along one edge with black yarn; snip other edge open and remove
-carefully (Figure 2). Sew to the top of the head with the seam down the
-center like a part and hair hanging down each side of the head. Fit a
-band of tape (embroidered or plain with beadwork) around the head and
-add a feather at the back (Figure 3).
-
-DRESS: Cut a shirt from a piece of material 8″ × 6″, seam and fit to
-puppet with opening at the back. Gather along the waist and sew to a
-strip of felt for the belt (Figure 4).
-
-OPTIONAL: Add novel beads around neck and wrists (if you have added the
-glove-like fingers mentioned in the basic instructions). You might try a
-Mohawk hairdo, braids, fancy headdress, medicine man’s mask or other
-variations.
-
-
-
-
- LION
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
- SEW EARS WIDE APART
-
-Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.
-
-FEATURES: Cut toe from the second sock, turn inside out and sew to a
-nose shape (Figure 1). Stuff lightly and stitch to the front of the
-head. Embroider end of the nose in black yarn and add an upside down
-Y-shaped mouth in red yarn. Sew on black button eyes over brown felt
-circles (Figure 2).
-
-EARS: Cut two petal shaped pieces from brown felt or scrap fur and two
-pieces from pink felt. Sew the pink and brown pieces together, leaving
-an opening for turning. Turn and stitch to head. Pleat felt.
-
-MANE: Sew bushy yarn pom poms (see page 32) or strips of scrap fur over
-the top of the head and down around the neck (Figure 3).
-
-PAWS: Make two small paws from the second sock or the fingers of an old
-glove and sew over the slits at the sides of the puppet. Add small yarn
-pom poms or fur scraps near the ends (Figure 4).
-
-FINISHING TOUCHES: If he is to be THE LION in “The Wizard of Oz” hang a
-little heart locket around the neck.
-
-
-
-
- BILLY GOAT
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Follow the basic instruction for the finger puppets on page 35.
-
-FEATURES: Cut toe from second sock, turn inside out and sew to a
-narrower end (Figure 1). Turn, stuff and stitch to the face. Embroider
-two nostrils at the tip and sew on a red mouth. Cut two circles of brown
-felt and sew to each side of the head. Add bright buttons or beads to
-complete the eyes. For a sleepy look, use flat button eyes and sew
-crescent-shaped pieces of felt over so that only the bottom half of the
-eyes shows. Embroider eyelashes, or cut them from felt, if you want to
-give Mr. Billy Goat a coy expression.
-
-EARS AND HORNS: Cut ears as shown and sew to the top of the head (Figure
-2). Make horns from white felt, sewing them into a tube. Insert pipe
-cleaners into the tubes so that they can be bent to the desired shape.
-Sew firmly to the top of the head, pushing pipe cleaners down into the
-head a bit. Curve horns backwards (Figure 3).
-
-WHISKERS: Add a pom pom (wound only 10 times) under the chin and trim to
-a point.
-
-TRIM: Add a high, formal white collar with a black bow tie. Make a pair
-of spectacles from thin wire with the nose piece setting well towards
-the tip (Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- ARM PUPPETS
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-The puppets shown on the following pages are basically those in which
-the mouth is made to move by the action of the hand. In making these
-puppets keep in mind that ample room must be left over and under the
-mouth piece for the fingers to operate freely to obtain the maximum
-facial expressions. Do not use staples, pins or other sharp objects to
-hold pieces together since they are apt to cut the hand or fingers. Make
-the puppets large enough so that they can be easily slipped on and off
-by the child or adult using them.
-
-STEP NO. 1: Tuck the heel of the sock to make a straight tubular piece.
-
-STEP NO. 2: Cut the foot of the sock as shown by the dotted lines.
-
-STEP NO. 3: Turn the sock inside out and cut a piece of red material the
-shape of the mouth opening. Also cut a matching piece from cardboard.
-Sew the red material to the sock with an overhand stitch or use your
-sewing machine.
-
-STEP NO. 4: Turn the sock right side out. Fold the cardboard piece in
-half and insert in the sock.
-
-STEP NO. 5: Add features such as button eyes, nose, hair and so forth.
-
-ANIMATION: Most talking puppets are operated by placing the thumb under
-the bottom cardboard piece and the fingers over the upper piece. Open
-and close the hand to make the puppet talk. Twisting the hand will give
-a variety of facial expressions and moving the arm about will add to the
-illusion.
-
-
-
-
- VARIATIONS
-
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-The basic instructions above are for the crocodile which appeared in the
-September 1954 issue of _Pack-O-Fun_ magazine. With modifications,
-literally hundreds of puppet variations can be made. By simply adding a
-saw-toothed strip of felt on top, Mr. Crocodile can be turned into a
-scaly, scary dragon. Or by shortening the mouth and building up the
-head, as we did for the clown and ringmaster on page 40, you can create
-a multitude of lovable characters from Hansel and Gretel to modern
-animated cartoon animals.
-
-Whiskers and mustaches will give villainous or rube-like looks; eyes and
-ears can be exaggerated for comic expressions; cheeks can be padded for
-a chubby look and noses can be anything from a tiny button to a long
-duck’s beak. Hairdos can be long and feminine, short and boyish or
-fringed for a lion’s mane. Hats, dresses and other costume pieces will
-enhance the puppet character and hide the arm.
-
-The puppets on pages 42-43 were made for the underwater western skit
-“Phineas Rides Again” written by our Katie Conrad. Four of the
-characters are talking puppets. Louie the Lobster is a finger puppet and
-will give you an idea how both types of puppets can be combined for
-maximum visual effect. Susie Starfish has no moving parts, but being the
-beautiful heroine really doesn’t need any! It is possible for one person
-to handle all six roles.
-
-
-
-
- CLOWN PUPPET
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-For Sock No. 1 follow Steps 1, 2, 3, 4 on page 39, but make the mouth
-shorter.
-
-HEAD: Cut 4″ from the toe of the second sock. Stuff lightly, but firmly,
-so that it doesn’t get too heavy (Figure 1). Sew to the top of the first
-sock, turning under the rough edges. Be careful not to sew the space
-above the cardboard closed in Sock No. 1. Shape nice and round (Figure
-2).
-
-FEATURES: For eyes use large round or crescent-shaped pieces of felt
-with bright buttons sewn on. Embroider exaggerated eyebrows. Use a big
-bead or button for the nose. Colorful pom poms (see page 32) are sewn on
-for sideburns. Cut a piece of bright red felt for an upper lip and sew
-it to the top sock (Figure 3).
-
-COSTUME: Add a cone-shaped hat (see Clown Doll on page 27) perched at a
-rakish angle. To hide the arm, stitch a colorful ruffle around the
-neck—being careful not to sew it so tight that you will have difficulty
-getting your arm in the puppet (Figure 4).
-
-ANIMATION: Slip the thumb into the bottom part of the mouth and the
-fingers into the top.
-
-
-
-
- RINGMASTER
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-Make the head the same way as the clown above.
-
-FEATURES: The ringmaster’s features are more nearly natural than those
-of the clown. Embroider thick eyebrows in black, brown or red yarn and
-sew buttons under them for eyes. For the nose cut a triangular piece
-from a matching sock, sew the long edges together and turn. Stuff
-lightly and sew to face. Bend the nose to give it a slight hook (Figure
-1). The curling mustache, hair and neat sideburns can be embroidered in
-yarn matching or contrasting with the eyebrows (Figure 2). Ears can be
-cut from felt. Sew them on so that they stick out a bit.
-
-COSTUME: Use shiny black oilcloth to make the top hat described on page
-31. Set at a jaunty angle and whip stitch to head. Stitch a white wing
-collar around the neck with just the suggestion of a tie (Figure 3). For
-greater realism add the upper part of a frock coat with wide lapels. Put
-a white carnation on the right lapel (Figure 4).
-
-OTHER CIRCUS PUPPETS: By following the basic head patterns you can make
-other circus folk and animals. For features use the many suggestions for
-the Sock Animals and Sock Dolls. For example, for a talking elephant
-stitch a trunk right above the mouth, add tusks and big ears, a tasseled
-headpiece and so forth.
-
-
-
-
- Phineas Rides Again
-
-
- Reprinted from _Pack-O-Fun Skit Book No. 1_
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-The puppets are made from old socks with burlap, felt, cardboard,
-sponge, plastic lacing and buttons used for features, tentacles, and
-claws.
-
-The operators sit on chairs on either side of a theatre made from a
-cardboard carton, with openings cut in each side. Stage directions for
-right and left are for a person ON STAGE, facing the audience. The
-direction from which each character enters must be considered in making
-the puppets.
-
-(_The ANNOUNCER appears in front of the curtain._)
-
-Announcer: Good evening, ladies and gentlemen! For years the
-action-filled western has reigned supreme as a favorite with adventure
-story lovers. Recently, however, its popularity has been challenged by a
-rush of interest in underwater drama. Tonight, we combine these trends
-and proudly present a production that will please everyone:
-A-Cowboy-Story-Under-The-Sea. Its title is “Phineas Rides Again” or “The
-Foam Ranger.”
-
-The following exciting characters will appear:
-
- Phineas Fish—_The Hero_
- Clem Clam—_His Sidekick_
- Susie Starfish—_The Heroine_
- Oily Oliver Octopus—_The Villain_
- Louie the Lobster—_His Accomplice_
- Sam Sponge—_The Sheriff_
-
-Shall we join the players way down yonder in the wild western ocean?
-
-(_ANNOUNCER leaves, and the curtain opens far enough to reveal the
-puppet theatre. PHINEAS has entered from RIGHT and is on stage, alone,
-singing. Others backstage may join him to add to the volume._)
-
-Phineas: (_To the tune of “Home on the Range”_)
-
- Oh, give me a home where the mackerel roam
- And the cod and the anchovies play.
- Where often is seen, the cheerful sardine
- And the sunfish is shining all day.
-
-(_CLEM enters from LEFT during song._)
-
-Phineas: Hi ya Clem. Some tun-a, eh?
-
-Clem: Frankly, Finny, it smelt.
-
-Phineas: Ah, quit carping.
-
-Clem: Did you hear about the commotion in town?
-
-Phineas: What’s up?
-
-Clem: Somebody robbed the Oyster bank early this morning.
-
-Phineas: Great Grunion! Did they get much?
-
-Clem: Stole all the pearls and a million dollars in gold fish.
-
-Phineas: Phew! That’s a lot of fish! What’s the Sheriff doing?
-
-Clem: Oh, he’s floundering around.
-
-Phineas: Clem, go tell him we’ll help solve this case.
-
-Clem: O.K. (_CLEM leaves, PHINEAS begins singing “I’m An Old Cow Hand,”
-but is violently bumped as the SHERIFF enters LEFT._)
-
-Phineas: Hey, Sam, did you do that on porpoise?
-
-Sheriff: Sorry, Finny. I haven’t been so excited since my dogfish had
-guppies.
-
-Phineas: Clem told me about the robbery. Have you found the varmints
-yet?
-
-Sheriff: Nope. They left a red herring on the trail.
-
-Phineas: Hm. Must have been some daring soles.
-
-Sheriff: Oh, I don’t know. Only an ’eel would do a thing like that.
-
-Phineas: I’ll go get my sea horse from the coral and join the posse.
-
-Sheriff: Fine. See you later. (_SHERIFF leaves. Before PHINEAS can
-leave, a girl is heard, crying, and SUSIE enters, LEFT._)
-
-Susie: Oh, I’m so frightened! Please help me, Phineas.
-
-Phineas: Stop your blubberin’, little gal. What’s wrong?
-
-Susie: (_weeping_) I can’t find the Sheriff! I think I know who robbed
-the bank, and they’re after me!
-
-Phineas: Who, gal, who?
-
-Susie: Oily Oliver Octopus and Louie the Lobster!
-
-Phineas: Are you sure? Why I remember them when they were just a couple
-of perch-snatchers.
-
-Susie: Oh, yes. I saw them near the bank this morning, but I didn’t
-realize what they were going to do.
-
-Phineas: I’ll go tell the Sheriff. He’ll throw out the fishnet.
-
-Susie: (_wailing_) Oh, don’t leave me! Stur-geon-na be trouble.
-
-Phineas: Don’t you fret, Susie, gal. Hide behind that clump of seagrass
-till I come back. (_PHINEAS leaves, RIGHT. SUSIE also leaves, LEFT,
-apparently to hide. OLIVER enters RIGHT and LOUIE, LEFT._)
-
-Oliver: Well, we made our get-away all right.
-
-Louie: Yep, but I’m scared, boss. We’ve got to catch that little
-starfish before she talks.
-
-Oliver: Well, where is she? She came this way.
-
-Louie: ’Course I kinda hate to hurt her. Gosh, she’s purtier than Marlin
-Monroe!
-
-Oliver: Forget it! Don’t be a sucker for a pretty fish.
-
-Louie: Reckon you’re right. I’ll go look that-a-way. (_leaves, LEFT._)
-
-Oliver: (_Looks about, sees SUSIE hiding and drags her on stage from
-left._) Aho! So there you are. Come on out.
-
-Susie: I was right! It WAS you and Louie.
-
-Oliver: Yes, but you’ll never tell.
-
-Susie: Unhand me, you cod! Somebody else already knows!
-
-Oliver: Who?
-
-Susie: I won’t tell!
-
-Oliver: Talk, you little sprat!
-
-Susie: I won’t! I won’t!
-
-Oliver: So you’re gonna clam up? Wait’ll I get Louie! (_OLIVER leaves,
-and SUSIE is alone._)
-
-Susie: (_wailing_) Land o’Ocean, what shall I do? (_PHINEAS enters,
-RIGHT._)
-
-Phineas: I’ll save you, Susie gal! Go hide again, quick! (_SUSIE
-disappears quickly and LOUIE enters from the LEFT._)
-
-Louie: Hey, Boss, where is she? (_sees PHINEAS._) Out o’ my way, Buster.
-
-Phineas: I’ll fix you, you lobster mobster! (_PHINEAS rushes at LOUIE,
-butts him from underneath with his head and mouth and LOUIE gives a
-bounce in the air and collapses over the front of the stage, hanging
-limply. PHINEAS leaves._)
-
-Phineas: (_offstage_) And you! I’ll smush you, you octopus, you!
-(_OLIVER flies in after some loud offstage noises, bounces up in the air
-and collapses next to LOUIE over the front of the stage._) Clem!
-Sheriff! Drag these sidewinders out of here! (_OLIVER and LOUIE go off
-limply, as if being dragged. PHINEAS enters, RIGHT._)
-
-Susie: (_offstage_) Can I come out now?
-
-Phineas: Come on. It’s all over. They’ve vamoosed to the calaboose.
-
-Susie: (_enters LEFT_) My hero! You’re a dol-Phin-eas!
-
-Phineas: Shucks, ’Twarn’t nuthin’.
-
-Susie: But however did you do it? They’re so strong and powerful!
-
-Phineas: For years I used to be just another poor fish. But then I
-started eating a better breakfast every day, and now I win all my
-fights.
-
-Susie: My goodness! But tell me, what do you eat for breakfast?
-
-Phineas: Why SEAWEEDIES, Gal, SEAWEEDIES!!
-
-Susie: My CHAMPION! (_They kiss._)
-
-_Curtain_
-
-
-
-
- SKIT PUPPETS
-
-
-SUSIE STARFISH
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2]
-
- SEW TO HEART
-
-Use a pastel colored sock to hide the arm. From white or light pink felt
-cut a star-shaped face about 6″ from tip to tip. Round the points for a
-soft look. For hair, cut a heart-shaped piece of black, yellow or red
-felt. Sew to star face with matching thread. Add eyebrows, long inverted
-coy eyelashes, two stitches to suggest a nose and a red rosebud mouth
-(Figure 1). Sew the star-face to the sole of the sock (Figure 2).
-
-
-PHINEAS FISH
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2]
-
- SLIT HERE
- SEW CIRCLE HERE
-
-Use a white sock for our hero. Cut a 1½″ slit in the toe and turn the
-sock inside out. Cut a 3½″ circle of pink or red felt, fold and
-overstitch around mouth slit (Figure 1). Turn sock right side out and
-add a thin lip line. For the fan-shaped tail, cut strip of burlap or
-felt and sew to sock cuff, pleating slightly. Be careful not to sew cuff
-together. Hide the rough cut edges with a band of felt. (Figure 2). Add
-fins and bright colored gills. Button eyes and a few accents of paint
-will provide realism. Add a cowboy hat (see page 31) and tie or stitch
-to head (Figure 3). To animate Phineas, slip two fingers above the mouth
-and two fingers under the mouth. Open and close scissors-fashion.
-
-Remember to sew a tuck in the heels to make straight tubular socks.
-Puppets are made for either hand and stage directions can be reversed.
-Dye white socks if colored socks are not available.
-
-
-CLEM CLAM
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
- SLIT HERE
- CUT ACROSS HERE
-
- STITCH TO SOCK
-
-Make Clem from a light colored sock. The head is shortened by cutting
-off the toe of the sock (Figure 1). For the mouth, cut a clam-shaped
-piece of pink felt and matching piece from stiff cardboard (Figure 2).
-Follow the basic instructions on page 39, stretching the sock to fit the
-shape of the mouth pieces. Sew on big, bright blue button eyes, add a
-short, colored felt beard under the chin and paint black, clam-like
-streaks on top of the head (Figure 3). Make a cowboy hat (see page 31)
-and stitch to head. Operate like the basic puppet.
-
-
-SHERIFF SAM SPONGE
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
- SEW SPONGE TO SOCK
-
-Use light green socks and make the same way as the clown on page 40.
-Substitute two thin pieces of yellow cellulose sponge in place of felt
-mouth. Use separate pieces for the top and bottom because dry cellulose
-sponge is not very pliable (Figure 1). Embroider a mustache, long hair
-and sideburns in dark green yarn. Sew on big yellow button eyes. Add a
-cowboy hat (see page 31 for hats) with a silver star and stitch a bright
-bandana around the neck (Figure 2). Operate like the clown puppet.
-
-
-OILY OLIVER OCTOPUS
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
-A black sock is a must for this black hearted villain. Make the same way
-as the clown on page 40, only with a much smaller mouth. Cut two
-half-crescents from white felt, sew on head and add small button eyes
-(Figure 1). For tentacles, cut eight triangular pieces of material,
-about 6″ long and 2″ at the base. Sew the long sides together, stuff
-lightly and stitch to body with seams on the bottom (Figure 2). Make a
-stovepipe hat, following hat principles on page 31, and stitch to head
-at an angle (Figure 3). Operate like the clown puppet.
-
-
-LOUIE THE LOBSTER
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]
-
- CUT HERE
- SEW ON DOTTED LINE
- CUT HERE
- FIT CLAWS OVER “ARMS”
-
-A devilish red sock suits this villain. Turn it inside out. Cut off the
-rib and the toe. Sew two 4″ seams, about 1″ apart (Figure 1). Cut out
-the material between the seams. Turn sock right side out. Cut off a
-piece of the toe, stuff lightly and sew between the “arms” for a head.
-Attach two 1″ lengths of red pipe cleaner to the top of the head for
-“eye stalks.” Add small bright buttons or beads to the tips. Use a long
-plastic thong for the feelers. Push the thong through the head (Figure
-2). From stiff cardboard cut out two claws and paint red. Stuff about 1″
-of the “arms” and sew the claws to the stuffed ends. Add four bent red
-pipe cleaners to each side of the body for legs (Figure 3). To operate,
-use forefinger and little finger to move the “arms.”
-
- [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
- PENGUIN
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
- CUT HERE
- STUFF WELL
- FORM A CHEST WITH FINGERS
- STUFF WELL
- SEW ON WINGS
- SEW TO BODY
-
-BODY: Use cut foot portion from white sock, or if you wish a larger
-penguin, take a tuck in the heel making a long tubular piece. Stuff toe
-lightly for head and heavier toward the opening which will be the base
-of the penguin. Sew opening closed. Tie off at the neck with a formal
-black bow-tie (Figure 1).
-
-WINGS: From black material, felt or oilcloth, cut two pieces for each
-wing as shown. Seam, turn and insert a piece of cardboard the same size
-and shape. Sew on just below the neck (Figure 2).
-
-FEET: Cut two webbed feet from black material and two from cardboard.
-Sew or glue one of each together and fasten to the base of the penguin
-(Figure 3).
-
-FEATURES: Sew a tiny white button onto a small circle of black felt for
-each eye. Make a cone-shaped beak from yellow felt. Draw a line along
-each side to indicate the mouth and sew to the front of the head (Figure
-4).
-
-PENGUIN FAMILY: Make Mrs. Penguin slightly smaller, and Junior about
-two-thirds size. Mr. Penguin will, of course, wear a top hat (page 31)
-while Mrs. Penguin may have to be content with pattern design E-19. A
-colorful apron might mollify her feelings though. Junior can wear a top
-hat or, since he’s a bit young, a beanie.
-
-
-
-
- DUCK
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
- STUFF UNTIL PLUMP
- GATHER & TIGHTEN BEFORE CLOSING
- TURN ENDS DOWN
- CUT TWO WINGS
- SEW WINGS TO SIDES
- SEW TO SOCK HERE
- CUT TWO OF THESE
-
-BODY: Use foot from light colored sock. Stuff plump and round. Sew up
-opening in the bottom. Tie off about one-third the way down for the
-head. Add a stiff-necked white collar with the tabs turned back around
-the neck (Figure 1).
-
-WINGS: From stiff material of the same color, cut two wings as shown.
-Sew one to each side of the body with tip of the wings extending down
-and out at the bottom to form the tail (Figure 2).
-
-FEET: Cut two webbed feet from cardboard and two from stiff material.
-Sew one of each together and fasten to the bottom of the duck (Figure
-3).
-
-FEATURES: Sew a round black button onto a large circle of white felt for
-each eye. Make the beak from two pieces of felt and sew to the front of
-the face (Figure 4).
-
-OPTIONAL: If you want to make a sailor out of your duck, add a sailor
-hat perched at an angle on the top of his head and the regular sailor’s
-collar and neckerchief. To make the collar, use a rectangle of blue
-material, cut a deep arc from one corner to the other, then overlap
-corners at the front. Embroider or paint 3 white stripes along the three
-outside edges—add neckerchief. The hat is made from the ribbed end of a
-sock. Cut off the cuff, gather rough edge together tightly and turn back
-the other edge about 1″. If you prefer a stiff brim, insert a piece of
-cardboard around the inside of the turned back section.
-
-
-
-
- DOUBLE DOLL
-
-
-There are any number of combinations that you might like to try for your
-double doll, such as Peppy and Sleepy, Suzy and Sammy or a couple of
-clowns. We have chosen Happy and Dumpy.
-
-BODY: Take a tuck in the heel of the sock so that you have a straight
-tubular sock. Cut off the cuff. Stuff plumply and firmly and sew opening
-closed. Tie off the middle to divide the sock into two dolls; then tie
-off the head about half way down from each end (Figure 1). Do not tie
-tightly or doll will be too wobbly.
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1]
-
-FEATURES: The big differences in these two dolls are the features which
-are exactly the opposite. Both faces have the same type of nose made by
-pulling a piece of the face into a ball or lump and then tying off with
-yarn or thread. The eyebrows are embroidered in black yarn. Happy’s
-eyebrows are curved in a convex manner while Dumpy’s are concave. Use
-large bright buttons for eyes, centering them under the eyebrows.
-Embroider a few tears running from Dumpy’s eyes. Dumpy has a turned down
-mouth made of red felt while Happy’s mouth is turned up in a big grin.
-Cut the two mouths identically and merely reverse the points. A few
-frown lines can be embroidered with brown yarn on Dumpy’s forehead
-(Figure 2).
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 2]
-
-HAIR: Make the hair from pom poms, choosing a style from page 32. Happy
-and Dumpy can be either boys or girls or one of each. Make Happy’s hair
-from yellow or red pom poms; Dumpy’s from black or brown. Set Dumpy’s
-hair lower on the head to accentuate the frowning look. If one or both
-heads are boys, add ears of semicircular felt to the sides of the head.
-
-ARMS AND LEGS: Actually these are one and the same. The legs of one doll
-serve as the arms of the other and vice-versa. Make them from a second
-sock. Cut out four rectangles about twice the length of the head. Sew
-the long edges together and across one end. Turn and stuff lightly. Sew
-to the shoulders so that they hang freely. When the doll is flipped
-over, one pair should flop to the sides for arms while the other pair
-hangs down for the legs (Figure 3). Tie ribbon around the wrist/ankles.
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 3]
-
-DRESS: Make a wide flaring skirt from a pattern design on page 29. For
-greater contrast sew two different colored pieces together so that when
-the doll is flipped over a different colored skirt will appear. Add
-blouses, bows, hats or any other bits that you think will make the dolls
-look cuter.
-
-
-
-
- OWL PILLOW
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-BODY: Use foot of a large, dark sock. Stuff firmly, but flatten it as
-you do. Sew opening closed. With yarn, tie off the head about one-third
-of the way down.
-
-FEATURES: Sew two white felt circles fairly close together and in the
-middle of each sew small yellow buttons for the eyes. Make a small
-cone-shaped beak from shiny oilcloth and sew on just below the eyes so
-that eyes and nose form a triangle. Accent this triangle by embroidering
-a “V” just above the eyes and nose (Figure 1).
-
-EARS: Cut four pieces as shown from the rest of the sock. Sew two
-together for each ear, turn and stitch to top of head, pleating the
-front half slightly (Figure 2).
-
-WINGS: Cut two wings from matching felt and sew one on each side of owl.
-Accent with lines of white for feathers (Figure 3). To finish the owl,
-embroider or paint wavy lines on the body between the two wings. Also
-embroider claws at the bottom, curving them as if clinging to a branch
-of a tree. Finally add a big red bow at the neck (Figure 4). If you
-prefer a stuffed doll, stuff it round and plump and then add felt feet
-at the bottom.
-
-
-
-
- HUMPTY DUMPTY
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-BODY: Use cut foot portion from sock. Round open edges. Stuff firmly and
-sew opening closed. Push stuffing around until you have a nice egg
-shape.
-
-FEATURES: For eyes, sew two small circles of black felt over two large
-half-circles of white felt. The black eye pieces can be placed in the
-center, to the sides or cross-eyed to get different effects. Add
-eyebrows of black felt or embroider them in black yarn. A few stitches
-in brown yarn will serve for a nose. Cut the mouth from red felt
-(Figure 1).
-
-ARMS AND LEGS: Make two arms and legs from the second sock. Cut
-rectangular pieces, sew along the long sides and across one end. Turn
-and stuff. Sew the arms to the sides of the body and the legs to the
-bottom. The longer the arms and legs are, the cuter your doll will be.
-Tie yarn or ribbon around wrists and ankles.
-
-HAIR: Make yarn pom poms (see page 32) and sew them to the top of the
-head.
-
-DRESS: From the pattern designs on page 29, make a pair of pants and
-tack them on Humpty Dumpty. A colorful cap can be made from pattern
-designs on page 31. If you decide to make shoes (page 30) bend the legs
-for feet, stitching the tuck.
-
-
-
-
- WEENIE DOLL
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]
-
-Make your Weenie Doll from a dark sock so that his features really show
-up.
-
-BODY: Use cut foot portion from sock. Stuff firmly and sew opening
-closed. Tie off one-third the length for the head (Figure 1).
-
-FEATURES: Cut two ovals of white felt and two smaller ones of black. Sew
-or glue the smaller ones to the larger and sew them on the face for the
-eyes. Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows in black. Make a circle of red
-felt with a stitch across the center for the mouth. Embroider a few
-lines in the center of the face for the nose (Figure 2).
-
-EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears. Roll outer edges, hem and sew to side
-of head at eye level (Figure 3).
-
-ARMS AND FEET: Cut two arms from white felt and two from cardboard. Sew
-one of each together, making sure you have one for the right and one for
-the left side of the body. Stitch to body (Figure 4). Cut two feet from
-black felt and two from cardboard. Sew one of each together and fasten
-to the bottom of the doll. Add buckles or bow to the toes (Figure 5).
-
-CAP: Cut about 3″ from the ribbing of the sock. Gather cut edge together
-tightly. Place cap on head, tying a band around the cap about 1″ down
-from the gathers and adding a pom pom at the top (Figure 6).
-
-
-
-
- HOBBY HORSE
-
-
- [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]
-
-MOUTH: Cut an oval of cardboard 3″ × 4″ and insert it in the toe of the
-sock. Stitch the toe of the sock to the edges of the cardboard to give
-the mouth shape. Embroider brown ovals, just above the mouth for the
-nostrils. Stuff toe firmly down to the heel of the sock (Figure 1).
-
-FEATURES: Make eyes from tear-drop shaped pieces of black felt with tiny
-brown buttons in the center. With paint add a highlight of white in the
-center of each eye. Cut two ears from brown felt or leatherette. Fold in
-half and sew to the top of the head. Add a mane made from fringe or
-loops of yarn. Start at the top of the head over the eyes, go between
-the ears and down the back of the horse (Figure 2).
-
-RIDING STICK: Push a broomstick into the sock up to the heel. Pad well
-all around the broomstick down to the cuff of the sock (Figure 3). Tie
-off tightly. Add a halter made from leatherette or oilcloth, carrying
-the reins to the back of the horse’s neck. Add festive pom poms and
-jingle bells (Figure 4).
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Silently corrected a few typos.
-
-—Some instructions reference numbered figures which do not appear in the
- printed edition.
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
- is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's How to Make Sock Toys, by John M. Clapper
-
-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE SOCK TOYS ***
-
-***** This file should be named 63454-0.txt or 63454-0.zip *****
-This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
- http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/4/5/63454/
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will
-be renamed.
-
-Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
-law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
-so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
-States without permission and without paying copyright
-royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
-of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm
-concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
-and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive
-specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this
-eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook
-for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports,
-performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given
-away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks
-not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the
-trademark license, especially commercial redistribution.
-
-START: FULL LICENSE
-
-THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
-PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
-
-To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
-distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
-(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
-Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
-www.gutenberg.org/license.
-
-Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-
-1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
-and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
-(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
-the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
-destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your
-possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
-Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
-by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the
-person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph
-1.E.8.
-
-1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be
-used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
-agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
-things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
-paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this
-agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
-
-1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the
-Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
-of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual
-works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
-States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
-United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
-claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
-displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
-all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
-that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting
-free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm
-works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
-Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily
-comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
-same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when
-you share it without charge with others.
-
-1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
-what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
-in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
-check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
-agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
-distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
-other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no
-representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
-country outside the United States.
-
-1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
-
-1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
-immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear
-prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work
-on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the
-phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed,
-performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
-
- This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
- most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
- restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
- under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
- eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
- United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you
- are located before using this ebook.
-
-1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is
-derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
-contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
-copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
-the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
-redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
-either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
-obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm
-trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
-with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
-must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
-additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
-will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works
-posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
-beginning of this work.
-
-1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
-work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
-
-1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
-electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
-prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
-active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm License.
-
-1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
-compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
-any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
-to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format
-other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official
-version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site
-(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
-to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
-of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain
-Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the
-full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
-
-1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
-performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
-unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
-access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-provided that
-
-* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
- the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
- you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
- to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has
- agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
- Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
- within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
- legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
- payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
- Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
- Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
- Literary Archive Foundation."
-
-* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
- you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
- does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
- License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
- copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
- all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm
- works.
-
-* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
- any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
- electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
- receipt of the work.
-
-* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
- distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than
-are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
-from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The
-Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm
-trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
-
-1.F.
-
-1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
-effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
-works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
-Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
-contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
-or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
-intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
-other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
-cannot be read by your equipment.
-
-1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
-of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
-liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
-fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
-LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
-PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
-TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
-LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
-INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
-DAMAGE.
-
-1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
-defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
-receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
-written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
-received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
-with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
-with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
-lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
-or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
-opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
-the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
-without further opportunities to fix the problem.
-
-1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
-in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO
-OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
-LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
-
-1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
-warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
-damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
-violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
-agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
-limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
-unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
-remaining provisions.
-
-1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
-trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
-providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in
-accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
-production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
-including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
-the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
-or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or
-additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any
-Defect you cause.
-
-Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
-electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
-computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
-exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
-from people in all walks of life.
-
-Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
-assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
-goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
-remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
-and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future
-generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
-Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
-www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-
-Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
-
-The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
-501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
-state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
-Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
-number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
-U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
-
-The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the
-mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its
-volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous
-locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt
-Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to
-date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and
-official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
-
-For additional contact information:
-
- Dr. Gregory B. Newby
- Chief Executive and Director
- gbnewby@pglaf.org
-
-Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
-spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
-increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
-freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
-array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
-($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
-status with the IRS.
-
-The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
-charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
-States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
-considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
-with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
-where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
-DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular
-state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
-
-While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
-have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
-against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
-approach us with offers to donate.
-
-International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
-any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
-outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
-
-Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
-methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
-ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
-donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate
-
-Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works.
-
-Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be
-freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
-distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of
-volunteer support.
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
-editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
-the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
-necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
-edition.
-
-Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search
-facility: www.gutenberg.org
-
-This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
-including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
-subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
-