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+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #63420 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63420)
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-Project Gutenberg's Eight Lectures on India, by Halford John Mackinder
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Eight Lectures on India
-
-Author: Halford John Mackinder
-
-Release Date: October 9, 2020 [EBook #63420]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EIGHT LECTURES ON INDIA ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
-https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
-generously made available by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- THE VISUAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE
- OF THE COLONIAL OFFICE.
-
-
- -------
-
- EIGHT LECTURES ON INDIA.
-
- -------
-
-
-
- PREPARED FOR THE COMMITTEE
-
- BY
-
- H. J. MACKINDER,
-
- Lately Director of the London School of Economics and Political
- Science: Author of “Britain and the British Seas.”
-
-
- -------
-
- With Lantern Illustrations.
-
- -------
-
-
- ONE SHILLING NET.
-
-
-
- WATERLOW & SONS LIMITED, PRINTERS, LONDON WALL.
-
- ---
-
- 1910.
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-480 Slides, 60 for each Lecture, have been prepared in connection with
-this book, and are sold on behalf of the Committee by Messrs. Newton &
-Co., 3, Fleet Street, London, E.C., from whom the books of lectures can
-also be obtained. The complete set of 480 Slides, in eight padded boxes,
-may be had for £50, or the Slides to accompany the several Lectures will
-be sold for Six Guineas each Lecture. Single Slides will not be sold.
-The series consists for the most part of views taken by Mr. A. Hugh
-Fisher, the artist who went to India for the purpose on behalf of the
-Committee. Some of them are photographs coloured by hand from sketches
-in colour prepared by Mr. Fisher, and some are colour photographs by the
-Sanger Shepherd process reproducing Mr. Fisher’s own sketches. There are
-also many maps in colour prepared by the Diagram Company.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
- The slides of this series are copyright.
-
-
-
-
- ------------------------------------
-
- ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL.
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- THE VISUAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE.
-
- APPOINTED BY THE SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES.
-
-
- ----------------------------
-
-
-THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF MEATH, K.P., Chairman.
-
-THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR CECIL CLEMENTI SMITH, G.C.M.G.
-
-SIR JOHN STRUTHERS, K.C.B., LL.D., Secretary to the Scotch Education
- Department.
-
-SIR PHILIP HUTCHINS, K.C.S.I., late Member of the Council of the
- Secretary of State for India.
-
-SIR CHARLES LUCAS, K.C.M.G., C.B., of the Colonial Office.
-
-SIR CHARLES HOLROYD, Director of the National Gallery.
-
-H. F. HEATH, Ph.D., Director of Special Inquiries and Reports, Board of
- Education.
-
-H. J. MACKINDER, M.P., late Director of the London School of Economics
- and Political Science.
-
-W. H. MERCER, C.M.G., Crown Agent for the Colonies.
-
-R. D. ROBERTS, D.Sc., Secretary of the Gilchrist Educational Trust.
-
-PROFESSOR MICHAEL E. SADLER, LL.D., Professor of Education in the
- University of Manchester.
-
-
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- THE
- VISUAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE
- OF THE COLONIAL OFFICE.
-
-
- -------
-
-The component parts of the British Empire are so remote and so different
-from one another, that it is evident the Empire can only be held
-together by sympathy and understanding, based on widely diffused
-knowledge of its geography, history, resources, climates, and races. It
-is obvious that if this knowledge is to be effective it must be imparted
-to the coming generation. In other words it must be taught in the
-Schools of the Empire.
-
-In the Autumn of 1902, a Committee was appointed by the Secretary of
-State for the Colonies to consider on what system such teaching might
-best be developed. The Committee came to the conclusion that children in
-any part of the Empire would never understand what the other parts were
-like unless by some adequate means of visual instruction; and, further,
-that as far as possible the teaching should be on the same lines in all
-parts of the Empire. It was decided to make a beginning by an experiment
-on a small scale, and for this purpose to invite the three Eastern
-Colonies of Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and Hong Kong to bear the
-expense of a small book of Lantern Lectures on the United Kingdom for
-use in the Schools in those Colonies. Other parts of the Empire were
-afterwards invited to have editions which would be suited to their own
-special requirements prepared at their own expense, and up to the
-present date editions have been issued for the Eastern Colonies, for the
-West Indies, for West Africa, for Mauritius, and for India. Editions are
-now in preparation for Canada and for South Africa.
-
-The Committee, however, have always had in mind the preparation of
-illustrated lectures on the Colonies and India as well as on the United
-Kingdom. Their experience convinced them that if this part of the work
-were to be done as well as it could be done, it was advisable to have
-the illustrations prepared on a uniform system by a highly skilled
-artist or artists specially commissioned for the purpose. They were so
-fortunate as to interest in their work Her Majesty the Queen (then Her
-Royal Highness the Princess of Wales), and through her powerful and
-gracious support, and that of Lady Dudley and a Committee of ladies who
-were good enough to collect a sum of nearly £4,000 for the purpose, they
-have been able to make a beginning of a work which will take some years
-to complete. The Committee desire to record their warm gratitude to Her
-Majesty, to Lady Dudley, and to the Committee of ladies for making this
-part of the undertaking possible.
-
-The lectures contained in the present little volume are the first
-instalment of the work undertaken in connection with the Queen’s Fund.
-The Committee’s artist, Mr. A. Hugh Fisher, has travelled through India
-collecting material for the illustrative lantern slides. His sketches
-and photographs have been reproduced partly by the ordinary process in
-black and white, and partly by the Sanger Shepherd method in colour
-photography. Some of the slides have been coloured by hand after Mr.
-Fisher’s instructions. A series of maps has also been included, in order
-that the lessons of the lectures may be driven home.
-
-The text of the lectures has been prepared at the request of the
-Committee by Mr. H. J. Mackinder, who has based his work on information
-placed at his disposal from many sources. The Committee believe that he
-has succeeded in presenting in their relative importance and proportion
-all the chief facts essential to the popular understanding of His
-Majesty’s Indian Dominions. It is, of course, obvious that no account
-confined within the narrow limits of the present lectures, of so wide
-and varied an Empire as that of India, can give a completely accurate
-picture of all the many important facts and questions that are referred
-to; but in order to reduce to a minimum the chance of giving misleading
-impressions, Mr. Mackinder has had the advantage of suggestions from
-several eminent authorities on the subject, and in this connection the
-Committee desire especially to thank Sir Walter Lawrence, Sir William
-Lee-Warner, Sir Theodore Morison, Sir Thomas Holdich, Sir William
-Bisset, Sir Philip Hutchins, Mr. G. W. Forrest, C.I.E., and others.
-
- MEATH,
- Chairman of the Visual
- Instruction Committee
-
- LONDON,
-
- August, 1910.
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
- Publications of the Visual Instruction Committee, issued on
- behalf of the Committee by Messrs. Waterlow & Sons Ltd.
-
-
-=A.= Seven Lectures on the United Kingdom,
-
- By Mr. H. J. MACKINDER.
- In the following Editions:—
-
-
- =1. Eastern Colonies Edition, Sept., 1905.=
-
- In use in Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and Hong Kong.
-
-
- =2. Mauritius Edition, June, 1906.=
-
- In use in Mauritius.
-
-
- =3. West African Edition, Sept., 1906.=
-
- In use in Sierra Leone, the Gold Coast, and Southern Nigeria.
-
-
- =4. West India Edition, Sept., 1906.=
-
- In use in Trinidad, British Guiana, and Jamaica.
-
-
- =5. Indian Edition, March, 1907.=
-
- In use in the following Provinces:—Madras, Bombay, Bengal, the
- United Provinces, the Punjab, Burma, Eastern Bengal and
- Assam, the Central Provinces, the North West Frontier
- Province, and British Baluchistan.
-
-
- =6. Indian Edition for use in the United Kingdom, Jan., 1909.= Price
- One Shilling net.
-
- =Canadian and South African Editions are being prepared by
- direction of the Governments of the Dominion of Canada and of South
- Africa.=
-
-
-=B.=—Eight Lectures on India. August, 1910.
-
- By Mr. H. J. MACKINDER.
-
- Price One Shilling net.
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- CONTENTS.
-
-
- ---
-
-
- PAGE.
-
- LECTURE I. —Madras—the Hindu Religion 1
-
- LECTURE II. —Burma—the Buddhist Religion 19
-
- LECTURE III. —Bengal—the Monsoons 35
-
- LECTURE IV. —The United Provinces—the 51
- Mutiny
-
- LECTURE V. —Bombay—the Marathas 66
-
- LECTURE VI. —Rajputana—the Feudatory 82
- States
-
- LECTURE VII. —Delhi-the Muhammadan Religion 95
-
- LECTURE —The Northwest Frontier—the 114
- VIII. Sikhs
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- NOTE.—It is considered undesirable to overload this book
- with footnotes, and, therefore, this general acknowledgment
- is made of the indebtedness of the writer to various
- standard authors of whose works use has been made and
- quotations from which have in some cases been given.
-
-
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE I.
-
-
- ---
-
- =MADRAS.=
-
- ---
-
- THE HINDU RELIGION.
-
-
-India is an empire within an empire. There are four hundred million
-people in the British Empire, and of these three hundred million are in
-India. Though it is known by a single short name, India must not be
-compared with countries such as France and Germany. As regards both area
-and population it is the equal of half Europe, that half which includes
-all the countries except Russia. It is a land of many languages, some of
-them spoken by as many people as speak German or French. It is a land of
-several religions, differing more deeply than the sects of Europe It is,
-in short, a world in itself, of ancient civilisation, yet as the result
-of a wonderful modern history there is to-day peace from end to end of
-it, for though the systems of government are very different in different
-parts, yet everywhere the rulers, whether British officials or native
-princes, acknowledge the sovereignty or the suzerainty of His Imperial
-Majesty King George the Fifth.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of Journey, London to Colombo.] India lies one quarter way round the
-globe, or ninety degrees eastward from Britain. It is placed wholly in
-warmer latitudes than Europe, for the northernmost point of India is
-almost precisely in the latitude of the southernmost point of Europe. It
-occupies the same latitudes as the great western wing of Africa. If
-lifted bodily northward and placed upon the map of Europe, it would
-extend from Gibraltar, past Spain, France, and Britain to a point beyond
-the Shetland Isles.
-
-The British Empire in India was won, organised, and defended in the days
-before steam. Access to it was possible only by sailing ship round the
-Cape of Good Hope, by an ocean path, that is to say, more than ten
-thousand miles long. The voyage took several months. To-day the British
-official, and soldier, and merchant go from London to Bombay, and the
-Indian student comes from Bombay to London in a fortnight. As we see on
-the map, the route is by rail to Dover, across the Straits of Dover, and
-by rail again through France to Marseilles. There the traveller joins
-the steamer which has carried a cargo, probably of cottons and
-machinery, through the Bay of Biscay. From Marseilles the track is
-through the two Straits of Bonifacio and Messina to the entry of the
-Suez Canal at Port Said. Here the mails are put on board, which have
-come through the Italian peninsula to Brindisi, and thence by rapid
-steamer. Thus it is only from Port Said through the Canal and the Red
-Sea to Aden that the vessel carries her complete burden—mails and
-passengers, and cargo. The redistribution commences at Aden. Our steamer
-happens to be bound, not for Bombay, but for Colombo and Australia, and
-the Indian mails and passengers are transferred at Aden to a local
-steamer, which crosses to Bombay.
-
-From London to Colombo and Bombay is the naval high street of the
-British Empire. At Gibraltar, Malta, and Aden, where the waterways
-narrow and enemies might obstruct, are British garrisons and naval
-stations. Even the Suez Canal is partly owned by the British Government.
-A generation ago shares in that great undertaking were purchased by the
-United Kingdom for four million pounds sterling. To-day the British
-shares in the Canal are valued at more than thirty millions sterling,
-and each year a profit of more than a million pounds is paid into the
-British Exchequer. There is a garrison of British troops also in Egypt.
-
-Colombo is one of the chief centres of communication in the world. Some
-day, when the Dominions beyond the seas have grown to be as rich and as
-populous as Britain herself, the way through the Mediterranean, to-day
-all important, will be reckoned as one of several equal threads of
-imperial power. Other great streams of traffic, India-bound, will then
-converge upon Colombo from the Cape in the southwest, from Australia in
-the southeast, and by way of Singapore from Canada in the east.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Map of the Indian Seas.] Colombo is, however, not in the technical sense
-Indian. It is the chief city of the beautiful island of Ceylon, which is
-about as large as Ireland. The Governor of Ceylon writes his despatches
-home not to the Secretary of State for India but to the Secretary of
-State for the Colonies, for Ceylon is a Crown Colony, not a Province of
-the Indian Empire. We will, therefore, leave Ceylon to be studied at
-some other opportunity, and will take the steamer which in a night
-crosses the Gulf of Manar to Tuticorin, on the Indian coast opposite.
-
-As we lie in our bunks that night, while the ship ploughs the water in
-the dark, let us realize to what point on the vast surface of the globe
-we have travelled. A hundred miles away to east of us are the mountains
-of Ceylon, rising some eight thousand feet above the level of the ocean.
-A hundred miles to west is Cape Comorin, the southernmost point of
-India, lying eight degrees north of the Equator. Let us not be deceived
-by the apparent smallness of space on the maps which we use—those eight
-degrees are nearly equivalent to the length of Great Britain.
-
-From Cape Comorin two coasts diverge, the one known as the Malabar Coast
-northwestward for a thousand miles, the other known as the Coromandel
-Coast northward and then northeastward for a like distance. The surf of
-the Arabian Sea beats on the Malabar Coast, that of the Bay of Bengal on
-the Coromandel Coast. Both the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal open
-broadly southward to the Indian Ocean, for the great Indian Peninsula
-narrows between them to a sharp point at Cape Comorin.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 3.
-Map of Southern India.] The interior of the Indian Peninsula is for the
-most part a low plateau, known as the Deccan, whose western margin forms
-a steep brink overlooking the Malabar Coast. From the top of this brink,
-called the Western Ghats, the surface of the plateau falls gently
-eastward to a second lower brink, which bears the name of Eastern Ghats.
-Between the Eastern Ghats, however, and the Coromandel Coast there is a
-broad belt of low-lying plain, the Carnatic. Thus India presents a lofty
-front to the ship approaching from the west, but a featureless plain
-along the Bay of Bengal, where the trees of the coastline appear to rise
-out of a water-horizon when seen from a short distance seaward.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 4.
-Approaching Tuticorin.] We wake at the dawn of the equatorial day which
-comes almost suddenly at six in the morning. There is bustle on board,
-for the launch is alongside which is to carry us ashore. The ship is
-riding in a yellow, turbid sea, and the land is distant some miles to
-the west, a low dark line along the horizon. At one point are white
-buildings, which gleam in the increasing light. We cross the broad
-shoal, and gradually the detail of the coast separates into a rich
-vegetation of trees, and a city whose most prominent object is a cotton
-factory with tall chimneys—strange reminder at the very threshold of our
-journey that we are entering a land which is in process of economic
-change. The United Kingdom underwent such a change a century ago, when
-spinning and weaving were removed from the cottage to the steam-driven
-factory.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 5.
-Nearer approach to Tuticorin.] India is a land of cotton. The very name
-calico is derived from Calicut, a town on the Malabar Coast, which was a
-centre of trade when Europeans first came over the ocean. Lancashire now
-sends cotton fabrics to India, and the Lancashire power-looms compete
-seriously with the finer work of the hand looms of India. But India
-manufactures great quantities of her own coarser cottons, and such a
-mill as this at Tuticorin is doing more than Lancashire to change the
-occupations of the Indian people. The beautiful silks, however, worn by
-the better-to-do women of India are still manufactured by hand loom.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 6.
-Landing at Tuticorin.] [Sidenote: 7.
-The Bazaar, Tuticorin.] [Sidenote: 8.
-Spinning Mill at Tuticorin.] [Sidenote: 9.
-Ducks at Tuticorin.] We land. Dark gesticulating figures surround us,
-scantily clad in white cotton. The morning sun casts long shadows, but
-there is a throng of people, for the work of India is done in the cool
-of the morning. The express train to Madras is waiting, but we have a
-short time for that first stroll, which leaves so deep an impression on
-the traveller setting foot in a new land. Tuticorin is a remote
-provincial city, a Dover or a Calais, on the passage from Ceylon. Here
-is a picture of its little bazaar with dark people in flowing white
-robes; there is a country cart in the street—ox-drawn. Next we have a
-nearer view of the spinning mill with a half-naked workman in the
-foreground. Under the shade of these leafy trees is a flock of ducks for
-sale. At every turn we see something characteristic, and must ask
-questions.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 3.] We leave Tuticorin and travel for a
-hundred miles across the plain. It is a barren-looking country and dry,
-though at certain seasons there is plentiful rain, and crops enough are
-produced to maintain a fairly dense population. Far down on the western
-horizon, as we journey northward, are the mountains of the Malabar
-Coast, for in this extremity of India the Western and Eastern Ghats have
-come together and there is no plateau between them. The mountains rise
-from the western sea and from the eastern plain into a ridge along the
-west coast whose summits are about as high as the summits of Ceylon,
-that is to say some 8,000 feet. A group of small hills, isolated on the
-plain, marks the position of Madura, a hundred miles from Tuticorin.
-Madura is the seat of one of the finest temples in the land.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 10.
-Plan of a South Indian Temple.] A Hindu temple in Southern India usually
-consists of a square building rising through several stories which grow
-gradually smaller. It is thus pyramidal in form, and is adorned with
-tiers of thronged sculpture. Within is a cell containing the image. The
-temple itself is surrounded by square and walled enclosures, one without
-the other; the great gateways through the successive walls are the chief
-glories of southern architecture. Though often larger than the central
-shrine, they are not unlike it in general appearance, but rectangular in
-plan, not square. They rise story above story to a summit ridge and are
-rich with thousands of sculptured figures. These great gateways are
-known as gopuras. In the courtyards enclosed between the successive
-walls are the homes of the priests, and usually a large water tank and a
-hall of a thousand columns. Some of these temples are very wealthy
-foundations.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 11.
-The Tank of the Golden Lilies, The Temple, Madura.] [Sidenote: 12.
-The Temple, Madura.] [Sidenote: 13.
-A Gopura at Madura.] Here we have the tank of the Golden Lilies in the
-Temple of Madura, surrounded by a colonnade, with gopuras rising from
-beyond; and here another view in the same temple, and here a gopura
-photographed from near.
-
-
-Hinduism is in its essence a spiritual religion. Western thought
-instinctively takes for granted the reality of outward things. Eastern
-thought instinctively takes for granted the reality of the “soul” or
-inward life. In the cosmology of the West there are two worlds, the
-natural and the supernatural; in the East the soul is the only real
-existence. The world-soul, or soul of Universal Nature, is God, and this
-Divine Soul is the supreme and fundamental reality; by comparison with
-it all outward things are shadows. Eternity is a vital aspect of
-reality. The present existence of the soul is not more certain than its
-pre-existence and its future existence. The present life is always brief
-and fleeting, but the past began and the future will end in eternity.
-Issuing from the Universal Soul and passing through æons of what may be
-called prenatal existence, the soul at last becomes individualised and
-enters on a career of conscious activity. Far from being dependent on
-the body, the soul takes to itself the outward form which it needs and
-deserves, and the body dies when it is deprived of the vitalising
-presence that animated it. The destiny of the soul is determined by its
-origin. It issued from the Universal Soul, and into the Universal Soul,
-its source, it must eventually be re-absorbed, though it may pass
-through innumerable lives on its way to the goal of spiritual maturity.
-“As it nears the goal the chains of individuality relax their hold upon
-it; and at last, with the final extinction of egoism, with the final
-triumph of selflessness, with the expansion of consciousness till it has
-become all-embracing—the sense of separateness entirely ceases, and the
-soul finds its true self, or, in other words, becomes fully and clearly
-conscious of its oneness with the living whole.” Such, in a few words,
-is the inner faith of the East.
-
-The religious books of India are written in Sanskrit, the tongue of
-Aryan conquerors who came into India across the northwestern mountains
-nearly two thousand years before Christ. The Aryans brought with them
-the worship of the powers of nature, the “devas,” or bright ones. From
-the Rig-Veda, or collection of hymns to various gods, which were
-composed for the worship of the Aryans during the earliest centuries of
-their dwelling in India, we learn something about these deities. Some
-were simply forces of nature, such as Father Heaven, Mother Earth, the
-Dawn Goddess, the Sun God, and the Wind God. With other deities new
-trains of ideas became connected that tended to obscure their original
-character. The Fire God, for instance, personified the fire of sacrifice
-and domestic use, the atmospheric fire of lightning, and sometimes even
-the sun. Thus he became the priest, mediating between man and the gods.
-Similarly Varuna, who at first apparently typified the open sky, whose
-eye is the sun, subsequently grew into a mighty guardian of the laws of
-nature and morality. This earliest age of Hinduism, the age to which the
-Rig-Veda belongs, is known as the Vedic Age, and the gods of this age
-were worshipped with sacrifice. In the Vedic period Aryan society
-probably divided itself into the soldier-yeoman and the priest. The
-soldier and yeoman, desirous of winning the goodwill and active
-assistance of the gods of the sky and earth, would hire the priest, who
-thus came to be regarded as the master of the rites which cajole or
-constrain the invisible powers. As the Aryans extended their sway over
-India, the influence of the Brahmans or priests increased, and in their
-hands religion underwent a profound change. Personal worship gave way to
-ecclesiastical ritualism. The idea of sacrifice as a means of compelling
-the gods grew to an enormous degree, and the welfare of the world was
-imagined to depend upon ritual, the key to which was in the hands of the
-Brahmans.
-
-There was, however, another side to this religious development. Even in
-the Vedic Age, while the popular mind was imagining a deity in every
-startling natural phenomenon, there were thinkers who discovered behind
-all the “devas,” or gods, the one Supreme Power, the Creator, Ruler, and
-Preserver of all things, the Divine Soul of which we spoke just now.
-This Supreme Power, who became known as Brahma, is not only the real
-self of the whole Universe, but also, as we have seen, the real self of
-each individual soul. The one Supreme Power could, however, only be
-discovered after a severe moral and intellectual discipline, and those
-who had not yet discovered it were allowed to worship lower gods. In one
-of the Hindu Scriptures the Supreme Lord is represented as saying: “Even
-those who worship idols worship me.” No one can have any conception of
-Hinduism unless he realises that throughout it there runs a wide
-distinction between the popular faith and the philosophical faith which
-underlies it. This distinction continues to this day. Countless gods are
-still worshipped in India, but the few still hold and always have held
-that all gods to whom worship is offered are but names or masks of the
-Supreme Lord of the Universe.
-
-The two principal gods of Modern Hinduism are Vishnu, the Preserver, and
-Siva, the Destroyer and Recreator; but they are worshipped under many
-different attributes. These two gods came into prominence after the
-Vedic Age, and their cults have passed through many phases; but a large
-number of Hindus still belong to sects which are called by their names.
-The sect to which a Hindu belongs is indicated by a coloured mark,
-erroneously described as a caste mark, made on the forehead. Brahma,
-Vishnu, and Siva are sometimes regarded as three persons of a Trinity.
-
-Animals are still sacrificed in certain parts of India, and in honour of
-certain gods, but the doctrine of the transmigration of souls, and the
-teaching of various religious reformers, of whom Buddha is best known,
-has tended in the direction of humanity to all creatures; and the great
-majority of Hindus are unwilling to take life, and abstain from animal
-food. The cow is to all Hindus an object of veneration.
-
-An elaborate mythology is connected with the Hindu religion, and the
-incidents of this mythology form the basis of Hindu sacred art,
-especially of the rich sculpture of the temples. Siva rides Nandi the
-Bull, and Vishnu rides Garuda the Eagle. Vishnu in some of his avatars,
-or incarnations, takes the form of a fish or of a man-lion, or for vast
-numbers of his followers he becomes Rama, the hero of the epic poem the
-Ramayana, or he is Krishna—another hero-God. Siva has a wife Kali, who
-is terrible, though at other times she is Parvati, the goddess of
-beauty; and Siva has sons, of whom one is Ganesh, with a fat human body
-and an elephant’s head.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 14.
-A Marriage Procession, Trichinopoly.] [Sidenote: 15.
-A Group of Brahmans.] Religion goes deep into the life of the Indian. It
-governs all his social relations. Here is a street at Trichinopoly, a
-hundred miles north of Madura. There happens to be the spire of a
-Christian church in the background. In the foreground is a temple
-elephant, heading a marriage procession. In white paint on the
-elephant’s head is the sect mark of the contracting parties. The Hindu
-community is divided not only in sects but also into castes, which are
-sternly separated, so that a man may not marry into another caste, or
-even eat with those of a lower caste. The tradition is that originally
-there were four castes; first the Brahmans, or priestly stock; then the
-Kshattriyas, or soldiers, the royal stock; third, the Vaishiyas, or
-merchants; and fourth, the Sudras, or artisans, labourers and
-agriculturists. But all these castes became sub-divided, and there are
-now more castes than callings.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 16.
-Processional Car, Trichinopoly.] A curious characteristic of Hinduism is
-the mixture of the squalid and crude with the grandeur of an
-architecture which in some respects is unsurpassed in the world. Not
-merely are the maimed and the beggars importunate in the temple
-passages, as in the church entries of Roman Catholic countries, but in
-every vacant corner of the outer courts of the temples are established
-little tradesmen. The properties of religious ceremony are often
-decrepit and tawdry. Here, for instance, we have a wooden processional
-car, rough roofed, awaiting the annual ceremony amid the live-stock of
-the yard. These warm-natured Southern people have the child’s power of
-making believe, and can worship the doll even when battered out of all
-recognition. They easily let loose the imagination and give devotion to
-the spirit embodied in a shapeless stone as sincerely as to that in the
-most finished allegorical sculpture.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 17.
-Arch of Welcome to Prince of Wales, Trichinopoly.] It is this sense of
-the spiritual and the allegorical in all things that makes the Indian so
-ready for loyal devotion to the person of the ruler. Here at
-Trichinopoly we have a triumphal gateway erected in honour of the visit
-to India of the Prince and Princess of Wales, which still bears the
-words “Glorious Welcome to our Future Emperor.” The Prince and Princess
-are now the Emperor and Empress. With us the gateway would have been
-demolished when it had served its immediate purpose. Here it remains, as
-does the memory of the visit. Ceremony rises in India to the rank of an
-historical event.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 18.
-The Main Bazaar Street, Trichinopoly.] [Sidenote: 19.
-The Tank and the Rock, Trichinopoly.] [Sidenote: 20.
-The Same—another view.] [Sidenote: 21.
-The Rock temple, Trichinopoly.] In the distance through the archway is
-the Rock of Trichinopoly which we approach nearer by the main bazaar of
-the town, and then, nearer still, we come to the tank which lies beneath
-the Rock. Amid the water is a pagoda or shrine. In the foot of the Rock
-itself there is excavated a temple. Such rock temples are frequent in
-India, perhaps because rock is less costly to carve where it lies
-undisturbed than it is to quarry and to remove and to build and to
-carve.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 22.
-Trichinopoly, looking east from the top of the Rock.] [Sidenote: 23.
-Trichinopoly, looking south from the top of the Rock.] [Sidenote: 24.
-The Bull Nandi, Tanjore.] [Sidenote: 25.
-The Fort, Tanjore.] [Sidenote: 26.
-The Temple, Tanjore.] [Sidenote: 27.
-Police drilling on the Maidan, Tanjore.]
-
-Here we have views from the summit of the Trichinopoly Rock, looking
-eastward over the city, and then southward over the roof of the great
-temple to the tank and the Christian Church. Bishop Heber died at
-Trichinopoly. In each aspect we see the unbroken plain which surrounds
-the City. Do you notice the Bull Nandi as an ornament along the edge of
-the roof of the temple? Here we have him again carved from a great block
-of granite at Tanjore, a place not far from Trichinopoly. Other scenes
-at Tanjore follow. One shows us the wall of the Fort with the moat
-outside, and the gopura of the Great Temple. Another is a vista within
-the temple walls, and gives some idea of the great spaces which the
-larger temples occupy. Then suddenly we become conscious of one of the
-sharp contrasts which characterise the India of to-day. These are Police
-drilling on the Maidan, or public place of Tanjore, and away on the
-horizon are the semaphores of the railway.
-
-
-In the plain of the Carnatic, which surrounds Madura, Trichinopoly, and
-Tanjore, we are not merely in the midst of the Hindu religion and caste
-system, but we are also near scenes rendered memorable by the struggle
-for India, a hundred and fifty years ago, between the French and the
-English. Two trading companies, the one seated in London and the other
-in Paris, obtained leave from the local princes to establish trading
-posts on the Coromandel Coast. They presently fortified these posts and
-became ambitious rivals.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 3.] At this time there was a disputed
-succession in the Carnatic State, and the English supported one aspirant
-for the throne of the Nawab, the French another. The Nawab of the
-English party was besieged in the Fort of Trichinopoly by the French and
-their Nawab. To effect a diversion, a young Captain, Robert Clive, in
-the British company’s service, seized the Fort of Arcot, a hundred miles
-to the north, and by a prolonged heroic resistance to the siege which
-gathered round him, succeeded in relieving the pressure on Trichinopoly.
-That Captain Clive became Lord Clive, Baron of Plassey, the founder of
-the British Empire in India. He went out as a writer or clerk in the
-service of the East India Company, and rose to be Governor of Bengal.
-
-It must be remembered, however, that in the time of Clive, no less than
-to-day, the number of the British in India was surprisingly small. As we
-saw just now, the Police, a great force, are not British but Indian, and
-the Indian army, though with British officers, is twice as numerous as
-the British garrison. The British have organised the peace and unity of
-India, rather than conquered it in the ordinary sense.
-
-The life of the white man in India is governed by the seasons. Here in
-the south the temperature is at all times high, though the heat is never
-so great as in the hot season of northern India. On the other hand there
-is no cool season comparable with that of the north. In most parts of
-India, however, there are five cool months, October, November, December,
-January, and February. March, April, and May are the hot season. The
-remaining four months constitute the rainy season, when the temperature
-is moderated by the presence of cloud, but the moisture is trying to the
-European constitution.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 28.
-The Nilgiris, near Ootacamund.] In all parts of India the white
-population seeks periodical relief by a visit to the hills. Here in the
-south the favourite hill station is Ootacamund, in the Nilgiri Hills. It
-is scattered over a wide space, with the bungalows in separate compounds
-or enclosures.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 29.
-Ootacamund, The Bazaar.] [Sidenote: 30.
-Ootacamund, General View.] [Sidenote: 31.
-Ootacamund.] [Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 3.] “Ooty,” as it is familiarly
-called, stands some seven thousand feet above the sea in the midst of a
-country of rolling downs rising yet another thousand feet. This lofty
-district forms the southern point of the Deccan plateau where the
-Eastern and Western Ghats draw together. A deep passage, twenty miles
-broad, known as the gap of Coimbatore or of Palghat, lies through the
-Ghats, immediately south of the Nilgiri Hills, from the eastern plain to
-the Malabar Coast. Other hills, equally high, lie southward of the gap
-and extend to Cape Comorin. We saw these last hills to our left hand as
-we travelled northward from Tuticorin to Madura.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 32.
-On the Railway to Ootacamund.] [Sidenote: 33.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 34.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 35.
-The Same.] The railway from the east coast goes through the Gap of
-Coimbatore to the Malabar cities of Cochin and Calicut, and from this
-railway a mountain line has been constructed up into the Nilgiri
-heights. We have here a succession of striking views on this mountain
-line. It is a rack and pinion railway, up which the train is worked on
-the central rail.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 36.
-The Drug in the Nilgiri Hills.] There are magnificent landscapes at the
-edge of the Nilgiris, where the mountains descend abruptly to the
-plains. This view was taken from a point called Lady Canning’s seat. It
-shows the Drug, from the top of which prisoners of war used to be
-thrown, in the days of the tyranny of Hyder Ali and Tippu Sultan, the
-Mohammedan sovereigns of Mysore, of whom we shall hear more presently.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 37.
-Tea Plantation, Nilgiri Hills.] [Sidenote: 38.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 39.
-Hill Tribe, Nilgiri Hills.] [Sidenote: 40.
-Toda People, near Ootacamund.] The vegetation of the heights is
-naturally different from that of the lowlands, and the cultivation of
-the Nilgiris is chiefly tea and cinchona, from the latter of which crops
-quinine is prepared. Amid the great forests of the slopes large game is
-numerous, such as sambur, or Indian elk, and tiger. Here also tribes of
-savage peoples have survived through all the centuries of history
-practically untouched by the civilization of the plains. One of these
-tribes, the smallest but the most interesting, are the Todas, who number
-less than a thousand, but have their own strange, unwritten language.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 3.] [Sidenote: 41.
-Madras from the Sea.] [Sidenote: 42.
-The High Court, Madras.] [Sidenote: 43.
-St. Mary’s Church, Madras.] [Sidenote: 44.
-The Law College, Madras.] [Sidenote: 45.
-Y.M.C.A. Building, Madras.] Northward of the group of temple cities, and
-eastward of the Nilgiris and of the plateau country of Mysore, on the
-low coastal plain is the great city of Madras, four hundred miles from
-our landing place at Tuticorin. Like the other seaports of modern India,
-Madras has grown from the smallest beginning within the European period.
-Its nucleus was Fort St. George, built to shelter the office and
-warehouse of the East India Company, in the time when Charles I. was
-king of England. To-day Madras has half a million people, and
-magnificent buildings in the European style. We have here a view looking
-northeastward over a corner of Fort St. George, and across the public
-grounds, to the High Court of Justice, whose lofty tower serves the
-purpose of a lighthouse for ships approaching the port. To the right of
-the High Court in the distance are the buildings round the harbour. Next
-we have St. Mary’s Church, standing within Fort St. George, the oldest
-British church in India, though the present structure was erected to
-replace an earlier church. And here we have the Law College, which
-stands beside the High Court, and close to it the building of the Young
-Men’s Christian Association. There are many Christians in southern India
-among the natives, indeed more than in any other part of the Indian
-Empire, although even here they are but a small minority. One Christian
-community on the Malabar coast is of the Nestorian sect, who came to
-India many centuries before the sea route was opened round the Cape.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 46.
-Madras Bank.] [Sidenote: 47.
-The People’s Park, Madras.] [Sidenote: 48.
-Banyan Tree.] [Sidenote: 49.
-The Same.] Madras has a Corporation much after the European plan, and is
-a clean, well drained city with many public amenities. Here, for
-instance, is the electric tramway in front of the Madras Bank. Here we
-have a view in the People’s Park, with a group of sambur within an
-enclosure. One of the most remarkable and typical of ornamental trees in
-India is the banyan, with drooping branches, whose suckers take root
-when reach the ground, giving the effect of a grove, though in fact but
-a single tree.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 50.
-Banyan Avenue.] Here is a banyan tree seen from without and from within,
-and here a banyan avenue at Madras.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 51.
-Grain Sellers, Madras.] [Sidenote: 52.
-Men ploughing, Madras.] [Sidenote: 53.
-Covered Bullock Cart, Madras.] Before leaving Madras, let us look at
-three scenes of native life. Here are grain sellers, and here, outside
-the city, are men ploughing. Here we see the typical covered bullock
-cart.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 54.
-Map of India, distinguishing Madras, Mysore, Cochin, and Travancore.]
-[Sidenote: 55.
-Coffee Planters, Coorg.] Lastly, let us consider the map, and learn what
-part of India is ruled from Madras and Ootacamund. We have in the first
-place, coloured red, the territory of the Presidency of Madras, which is
-ruled directly by the Governor and his Council. In purple are shown the
-important native state of Mysore, separated from both coasts by British
-territory, and the two little native states of Travancore and Cochin
-along the Malabar Coast southward to Cape Comorin. Mysore is directly
-under the general supervision of the Government of India, but Travancore
-and Cochin are under that of the Government of Madras. Beside Mysore is
-the diminutive territory of Coorg, no larger than the County of Essex,
-in England. But Coorg has a certain importance for the growth of coffee.
-Here we have a group of native coffee planters.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 3.] Then we look again at the map in which the
-lowlands were shown green and the uplands brown. We see the plain from
-Tuticorin to Madras city. We see the southern end of the Deccan plateau,
-with the state of Mysore upon it, and the Nilgiri hills at its
-extremity. We have the lowland passage of Coimbatore, to which we
-referred in describing Ootacamund, and south of this afresh the hills
-extending to Cape Comorin. The native states of Cochin and Travancore
-are on the westward descent from these southernmost hills. Note again
-how the railways take advantage of the lowland passages, especially the
-line from Madras leading westward to the Malabar Coast.
-
-The Cauvery flowing eastward over the plateau is the most considerable
-river of Southern India. As it descends the Eastern Ghats it makes great
-falls, and these have been harnessed, as the phrase is, and made to
-supply power which is carried electrically for nearly a hundred miles to
-the Kolar goldfield, within the Mysore boundary. The engineer who
-superintended the construction of this work was a French Canadian
-officer of the Royal Engineers—interesting evidence of the increasing
-solidarity of the British Empire.
-
-Bangalore is the chief military station of southern India. It is
-connected by rail with Madras, but is situated on the plateau within
-Mysore. From Bangalore the line runs on to Seringapatam on the Cauvery,
-and to Mysore city beyond. These were the seats of the Muhammadan
-Sultans, Hyder Ali and Tippu, father and son, who, a generation later
-than the time when Clive fought at Arcot, held Madras in terror from
-their highland fastness. The threat to the British position in India was
-a real one. Hyder Ali leagued himself with the French, with whom we were
-then at war, but he was defeated under the great Governor-General,
-Warren Hastings. Tippu, Hyder’s son, was also an ally of the French. He
-lived into the time of Napoleon, and made his chief attack on British
-power when the French were in Egypt, but he was defeated and killed.
-Colonel Wellesley, afterwards Duke of Wellington, first rose to notice
-in this campaign. He was appointed to command “the troops above the
-Ghats.” After the death of Tippu, the civil administration of Mysore was
-also assigned to Wellesley, and splendid work he did as civil
-administrator.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 56.
-Southern India, showing rainfall of S.W. Monsoon.] [Sidenote: 57.
-Pykara Falls, Nilgiri Hills.] [Sidenote: 58.
-Gairsoppa Falls.] A third map shows you the rainfall which is brought by
-the west winds of the summer time to the Malabar Coast. These winds
-strike the Western Ghats and the Nilgiri hills and drench them with
-superabundant moisture, so that they are thickly forested. At this
-season magnificent waterfalls leap down the westward ravines and feed
-torrents which rush in short valleys to the ocean. One of the grandest
-falls in the world is at Gairsoppa, in the northwestern corner of the
-state of Mysore.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 59.
-Southern India, showing rainfall of N.E. Monsoon.] [Sidenote: 60.
-Southern India, showing density of Population.] A fourth map indicates
-the rainfall on the east coast brought by the Northeast Monsoon of the
-winter season. Finally, a fifth map shows that the population is densest
-down on the lowlands precisely in those regions, on the east coast and
-on the west, which are best supplied with moisture. Throughout India the
-supply of water for agricultural purposes is the key to the prosperity
-of the country, for everywhere there is heat enough for luxuriant
-vegetation. It is only drought which is in places the cause of
-sterility. With all its vast population there are none the less great
-spaces in India very sparsely peopled. Once more let us remember that
-India is rather a continent than merely a country.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE II.
-
-
- ---
-
- =BURMA.=
-
- ---
-
- THE BUDDHIST RELIGION.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of India, distinguishing Burma.] In the last lecture we visited
-Madras, the southernmost and oldest province of the Indian Empire. In
-this lecture we will cross the Bay of Bengal from Madras to Burma, the
-easternmost and newest of the provinces, if we except a recent
-sub-division of an older unit. Politically, Burma is a part of India,
-for it is ruled by the Viceroy, and commercially it is coming every day
-into closer relation with the remainder of India. In most other
-respects, however, Burma is rather the first land of the Far East than
-the last of India, the Middle East. In race and language probably, in
-religion and social customs certainly, it is nearer to China than to
-India. Geographically, however, though placed in the Indo-Chinese
-peninsula beyond the Bay of Bengal, Burma is in relation with the Indian
-world, for it has a great navigable river which drains into the Indian
-Ocean, and not into the Pacific as do the rivers of Siam and Annam, the
-remaining countries of the southeastward promontory of Asia.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-The Shore, Madras.] [Sidenote: 3.
-In Madras Harbour.] We embark from Madras on the steamer which is to
-carry us to Rangoon. Formerly it was necessary to go out to the vessel
-through the surf in specially constructed boats, for all the Coromandel
-Coast is shoal, and there is not a single natural harbour. Often the
-surf is very rough. Now, however, a harbour has been made at Madras. Two
-piers have been built out into the sea at right angles to the shore.
-They may be seen in the distance in this view. At their extremities they
-bend inward towards one another, so as to enclose a quadrangular space
-within which the steamers lie. None the less there are times when the
-mighty waves sweep through the open mouth, rendering the harbour unsafe,
-so that the shipping must stand out to sea. There have been many
-terrible disasters in the cyclones which from time to time strike the
-east coast of India. When the Madras harbour was half completed the
-works were overwhelmed by a storm and the undertaking had to be
-recommenced.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 4.
-Coolies on Steamer.] Our vessel carries nearly two thousand coolies,
-natives of Madras, going to Burma to work in the rice mills or on the
-wharves, for Burma is a thinly peopled land. It has great natural
-resources, which are being rapidly developed by British capital. The
-coolies take passage as deck passengers for a few rupees, and each on
-landing at Rangoon has to undergo a searching medical examination,
-because the Plague is often carried from Madras to Burma. The disease
-manifests itself first by swollen glands, especially under the arms. The
-contagion, caused by a minute organism, is conveyed by rats. This
-terrible sickness is one of the worst scourges of modern India. It first
-broke out in Bombay in August, 1896. Since that date there have been
-three years in each of which a million deaths were due to it. As time
-goes on the mortality will probably decrease, for the first onslaught of
-a new disease is generally deadly. We must beware, however, of
-exaggerating its significance. There are three hundred million people in
-the Indian Empire, and the death rate by plague, even at its maximum, is
-therefore not very high. It is, indeed, low as compared with the death
-rate by malarial fever.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 5.
-Chinese Junk in the Rangoon River.] After a probably rough passage, we
-approach the low-lying shore of the great delta of the Irawaddy river,
-and enter that branch of it which is known as the Rangoon river. A stray
-Chinese junk reminds us of the fact that we are entering Indo-China, and
-of the trade relations of Burma with Singapore and the regions of the
-Far East. Burmese rice is sent to China, the Malay States, India, East
-Africa, and Europe. Rangoon depends for her commerce mainly on the rice
-harvest. In recent years, famines in India have been mitigated by rice
-exported from Rangoon.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 6.
-Map of Burma.] As we steam up the river for some miles inland, let us
-consider, with the help of a map, the main features of the geography of
-the land which we are about to visit. In this map is shown nearly the
-whole of the great southeastward peninsula of Asia. The areas which are
-coloured green are lowland, those which are yellow are upland, and the
-brown signifies highland and mountain. A ridge of highland, broken only
-at two or three points, runs southward through the centre of the map,
-separating Burma and the river basins of the Indian Ocean from Siam and
-the river basins of the Pacific Ocean. This great divide of the drainage
-is continued beyond the southern edge of the map through the Malay
-Peninsula for some distance. It ends near Singapore in the southernmost
-point of Asia, only one degree north of the Equator.
-
-
-In Burma, parallel with the dividing range, are three other ridges,
-striking southward side by side. These separate three valleys, through
-which flow severally the Salween, Sittang, and Irawaddy rivers. The
-valley of the Salween, as the yellow and brown colours upon the map
-indicate, is less deeply trenched between its bounding ranges than are
-the other two valleys. As we should therefore expect, the Salween river
-has a steeply descending course broken by rapids, and is of small value
-for navigation. At its mouth is the port of Moulmein. The valley of the
-Sittang, which is a short river, prolongs the upper valley of the
-Irawaddy, which latter river makes a great westward bend at Mandalay,
-and passes by a transverse passage right through one of the parallel
-mountain ridges. Beyond this passage it bends southward again, accepting
-the direction of its tributary, the Chindwin river. The great port of
-Rangoon is placed on a tidal channel at the eastern edge of the Irawaddy
-delta. The railway from Rangoon to Mandalay runs through the Sittang
-valley and does not follow the Irawaddy. There is navigation, however,
-by the Irawaddy past Pagan and Mandalay northward to Bhamo, which is
-close to the Chinese frontier. The coastal plain of Burma is known as
-Arakan where it runs northward from the Irawaddy delta, and as
-Tenasserim where it runs southward from that delta along a coast beset
-with an archipelago of beautiful islands. The delta itself bears the
-name of Pegu, or Lower Burma; while the region round Mandalay is Upper
-Burma.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 7.
-Plan of Rangoon.] We are in the Rangoon river. A tall, pointed pagoda
-appears on a hill to the right, and presently, as the channel bends to
-the west, we approach the busy commercial front of Rangoon city,
-surmounted by the golden spire of the great Shwe Dagon Pagoda.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 8.
-Shwe Dagon Pagoda, from across the Royal Lakes.] [Sidenote: 9.
-The Shwe Dagon Pagoda, Rangoon.] [Sidenote: 10.
-Images of the Sitting Buddha.] [Sidenote: 11.
-Earning Merit at the Shwe Dagon Pagoda.] Rangoon, apart from its chief
-Pagoda, is a modern city. Fifty years ago it was a village. To-day it
-has a quarter of a million people. A wharf-fronted road, the Strand,
-follows the shore of the main river for several miles. Up the Pegu
-tributary to the east for several other miles are many rice mills with
-tall chimneys throwing out black smoke. The harbour is busy with
-shipping. There are great timber yards, and there are oil mills, for the
-products of Burma are, first and foremost, rice, and then timber,
-especially great logs of teak—harder than oak, and then petroleum. Back
-from the Strand is a well kept town, with broad streets at right angles,
-though as yet there are few really impressive buildings to compare with
-the public buildings of Madras. There is a beautiful group of lakes, the
-Royal Lakes, set in wooded public grounds, and across these is the
-finest view of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, like a great hand-bell placed on a
-low hill. This pagoda is said to be the most frequented in the Buddhist
-world, for it has as relics eight hairs of Gautama, the founder of the
-Buddhist religion. It began some two thousand years ago as a small
-village fane. In successive ages the original structure has been encased
-afresh and afresh, until as the result of work done in the days of Queen
-Elizabeth, the great pagoda was completed which is now the glory of
-Rangoon. It rises to a height of nearly 400 feet, and is solid, there
-being no chamber within. The brickwork of which it is built makes a
-series of steps or ledges, so that it would be possible to climb for
-some distance up the spire. The whole is plated with gold-leaf, and the
-gilding is constantly renewed by pious devotees, who thus earn merit.
-The word “Shwe” in the name of this pagoda signifies golden. On the
-summit is a “hti,” or umbrella, of exquisite workmanship and material.
-It is said to have cost sixty thousand pounds. In the vane are 5,000
-gems—diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The base of the pagoda is
-surrounded first by shrines of varying sizes, and then by a flagged
-courtyard, which again is fringed with canopies and halls opening
-towards the pagoda, with many carved screens and arches, and innumerable
-shrines and altars, and images of Gautama. Flights of steps roofed over
-with teak descend from the courtyard, and one of the lower entries is
-guarded by great grotesque figures, partly lion and partly griffin, made
-of plastered bricks. We see one of them in this view. Then we have two
-very interesting pictures: the one represents three images of the
-Sitting Buddha from one of the shrines on the flagged courtyard at the
-foot of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, and the other shows a pilgrim “earning
-merit” by putting gold leaf on to the pagoda itself.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 12.
-The Sule Pagoda, Rangoon.] There is another considerable pagoda in the
-city, the Sule Pagoda. We have it here, with a corner of a building
-adjacent of European architecture, the Municipal Offices. Observe the
-watering of the streets by hand labour.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 13.
-A Typical Burman.] [Sidenote: 14.
-Burmese Gambling, Rangoon.] The Burmese are a short, sturdy people,
-merry and happy, and akin rather to the Japanese in temperament than to
-the people of the Indian Peninsula. The features of their faces are
-obviously Mongolian. They have the oblique eyes of the Chinaman. Here is
-a typical Burman with a rose coloured wrap round his head. The Burmese
-women, whose praises have been sung through the world, are dainty and,
-according to a more or less Chinese standard, not infrequently
-beautiful. They love to clothe themselves in silks of brilliant and
-delicate hue. Excessive industry is certainly not a failing of the race,
-yet there are no poor. We have here a group of Burmese gamblers at
-Rangoon. The theatres play all night and the spectators go home by
-daylight. The “pwe,” or show, consists invariably of three parts—a
-prince, a princess, and a clown; it may be compared with our traditional
-harlequinade. Both Indians and Chinese are migrating to Burma in great
-numbers, but agricultural work is still chiefly in native hands.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 15.
-Elephants lifting Teak.] [Sidenote: 16.
-Elephants Pushing Teak.] [Sidenote: 17.
-Tusker Elephant.] [Sidenote: 18.
-Tusker Elephant lifting Teak.] [Sidenote: 19.
-The Same.] One of the most curious and typical sights of Rangoon is that
-of elephants manipulating the great logs of teak wood in the timber
-yards. The logs are cut in the forests of the north of Burma, and are
-floated for hundreds of miles down the Irawaddy in large rafts, until
-they are stranded at a creek near Rangoon, called Pazundaung. Elephants
-are then employed for the purpose of moving and piling up the logs. The
-male elephant is very powerful and has strong tusks, on which he carries
-the logs, preventing them from falling with his trunk, but the female
-elephants are not so strong, and do not as a rule lift the logs off the
-ground, but merely drag them, or push them with the head. We have here
-two cow elephants, the one forty years old and the other seventy. We
-have them here again, one of them at the command of her rider pushing
-the logs forward with her head. In the next scene is a male elephant
-with tusks. He is fifty years old, and we realise his power in the next
-two views, where we see him poising on his tusks a great tree trunk.
-These huge animals are fed entirely on a grass which grows along the
-banks of the Irawaddy not far from Rangoon. Machinery is now taking the
-place of elephants in the timber yards, and Rangoon is, therefore,
-likely to lose one of its most interesting sights.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 20.
-A Rice Mill, Rangoon.] [Sidenote: 21.
-The Same.] While we are on the river front let us glance also at a rice
-mill, where a process equivalent to thrashing is carried out, the grain
-being separated from the husk. The black smoke is from the paddy husks
-used to supply the motive power of the mill. Paddy, or unthrashed rice,
-is mostly brought to Rangoon by water, though more than a million and a
-half tons now come annually by rail. After the milling process is
-complete, the rice is packed into bags for shipment all over the world.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 22.
-A Burmese Railway Train.] We will take train and run by the Burmese
-Sittang Railway over the broad levels of the delta, passing through
-fields from which the paddy has recently been cut. Only the ears are
-lopped off, and the straw is burnt as it stands. The Burmans are mostly
-yeomen, each owning his cattle and doing his own work in the field.
-Beyond Pegu we follow the Sittang River, with hill ranges low on the
-eastern and western horizons, until we come to Mandalay, once capital of
-the independent kingdom of Upper Burma. This kingdom was annexed to
-India in 1885 at the conclusion of the third Burmese war. Mandalay is
-the last of three capitals a few miles apart, which at different times
-in the past century have been the seat of the Burmese kings. Amarapura,
-a few miles to the south, was the earliest, and Ava, a few miles to the
-west, was the capital from 1822 to 1837.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 23.
-The 450 Pagodas from Mandalay Hill.] At Mandalay we are again on the
-banks of the Irawaddy. There is a hill in the northern suburbs several
-hundred feet in height, from which we may look over the city. The houses
-are so buried in foliage that, seen from the height, the place appears
-almost like a wood of green trees. The square Dufferin Fort, with walled
-and moated boundary, and sides more than a mile in length, is
-distinguishable in the centre, but for the rest there is none of the
-ordinary panorama of a European city. One striking feature, however,
-lies at our feet, a little to one side. It is a square group of 450
-white pagodas, with a more considerable gilded pagoda in the centre.
-Beside each of these pagodas there stands a large stone, and on these
-stones are inscribed quotations from the sacred books of the Buddhists.
-In the distance to the southeast are the hills inhabited by the Shan
-tribes.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 24.
-The Moat, Fort Dufferin.] [Sidenote: 25.
-King Thebaw’s Palace.] [Sidenote: 26.
-The Aindaw Temple, Mandalay.] [Sidenote: 27.
-Maker of Temple Htis, Mandalay.] The Dufferin Fort was built around the
-Palace of King Thebaw, the last of the Burmese dynasty. It is enclosed
-by a square of red walls pierced by three gates on each side, each gate
-bearing a pointed pagoda-like super-structure. Without there is a broad
-moat, a hundred yards wide, with lotus plants, floating in it like water
-lilies. This moat is crossed by five wooden bridges. Inside the walls is
-the King’s Palace, of which we have here the spire, surmounted by a
-“hti” finial. This spire is called by the Burmese the “Centre of the
-Universe,” since it is in the centre of Mandalay, which they claim as in
-the centre of the world. A “hti” we may observe again at the summit of
-the great Aindaw Temple in the south of Mandalay, and here we have one
-before it has left the home of its maker.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 28.
-The Queen’s Palace.] [Sidenote: 29.
-The Verandah of King Thebaw’s Palace.] [Sidenote: 30.
-Entrance to the Arakan temple, Mandalay.] We return to the Fort, and to
-the palaces within it. This is the Queen’s Palace, a very beautiful
-building of gilded teak, exquisitely carved, and here is the verandah
-where King Thebaw in 1885 surrendered to the British generals. He was
-taken away to India, and there he still lives under surveillance on the
-Malabar Coast. Here we have the entrance to the Arakan Temple, specially
-venerated by Buddhists, for it contains a great image of Gautama, over
-twelve feet high, made of brass. Pilgrims gain merit by placing gold
-leaf upon this figure. This is the building which Kipling spoke of as
-the Moulmein Pagoda; it is not, however, a pagoda, which is a solid
-spire, but a temple.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 31.
-Sappers and Miners, Fort Dufferin.] [Sidenote: 32.
-Crossing the Moat, Fort Dufferin.] [Sidenote: 33.
-A Garrison Family.] Burma has been gradually annexed to India as the
-result of three successive wars. The first ended in 1826, and then the
-low-lying coastal strips known by the names of Tenasserim and Arakan
-were taken, and also the great valley of the Brahmaputra, known as
-Assam. In 1852 the country of Pegu, or Lower Burma, comprising the delta
-of the Irawaddy, was annexed, but Upper Burma round Mandalay remained
-independent. The last king of Mandalay was Thebaw, a notorious tyrant,
-guilty of the most horrible atrocities. Being anxious to maintain his
-independence, he intrigued with the French in the lands of Tonkin and
-Annam to the east of Burma, and as a result brought upon himself the
-conquest of his country in the time when Lord Dufferin was Viceroy of
-India. It took fully ten years to reduce Burma to order, for the land
-was infested with dacoits or robbers, as it is still in some of the
-remoter districts. Every village in those days was defended by a
-palisade. Here we have two views of a party of troops in Fort Dufferin,
-with the King’s Palace in the background, and then a family scene in the
-married quarters of the garrison. The Burman does not make a good
-soldier, for he has very little sense of discipline. Even the police of
-the province are for the most part Gurkhas, Sikhs, and Punjabi
-Musulmans.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 34.
-The Bazaar, Mandalay.] [Sidenote: 35.
-The Flower and Seed Market, Mandalay Bazaar.] The Bazaar or market of
-Mandalay, as in every other Indian city, is the centre of public life.
-Externally it is of little interest, having been constructed since the
-conquest, but internally it is an epitome of the varied peoples who have
-thronged of late into the growing centres of Burmese trade. Here is a
-scene in the fruit market; but it is the silk market which delights the
-Burmese lady, who will be seen there accompanied by her maid, making
-purchases and enjoying the touch of more than she buys, as in similar
-places in Europe. The most striking contrast which is presented by Burma
-to one accustomed to Indian life is the freedom of the women, who move
-about unveiled. In Burma, under the Buddhist religion, we have neither
-seclusion of women nor the distinctions of caste. The city of Mandalay
-has a population of about 190,000, so that it is now smaller than the
-upstart Rangoon.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 36.
-Ferryshaw Siding, near Mandalay.] [Sidenote: 37.
-Mora.] [Sidenote: 38.
-Katha.] Let us make a voyage up the Irawaddy to the border of the
-Chinese Empire. This is a river scene a short way above Mandalay, with a
-group of white pagodas conspicuous on the bank, and here is a village
-scene. There follows a view at Katha, a large straggling village on the
-Irawaddy, remarkable for its many pagodas, most of them ruined. The
-majority of the Burmese pagodas are thus dilapidated for the reason that
-there is considered to be no merit in merely restoring an existing
-Buddhist shrine. The wealthy devotee prefers therefore to erect a new
-pagoda. The Shwe Dagon is an exception, for it contains sacred relics.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 39.
-Raft on the Irawaddy.] [Sidenote: 40.
-On the Irawaddy.] [Sidenote: 41.
-In the defile between Katha and Bhamo.] [Sidenote: 42.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 43.
-Burmese Children.] [Sidenote: 44.
-Cart with solid Wheels.] [Sidenote: 45.
-Lacquer Workers.] Here we have a raft of bamboos and teak logs floating
-down the river, and then a typical river craft with a great oar for a
-rudder. Our steamer must progress with care, measuring the depths with
-bamboo poles at either bow. None the less, navigation extends for more
-than nine hundred miles from the sea. From Mandalay to Katha the bank of
-the river is in most places low and sandy, but between Katha and Bhamo
-there are striking defiles, where the ground rises with wooded fronts
-from the water’s edge. There is population along the banks the whole
-way, as is evidenced by the pagodas amid the vegetation. Here are three
-little Burmese villagers, and then a rustic cart with solid wheels, and
-here a picture showing the process of the famous lacquer work of Burma.
-A “shell” is first made of very thin and finely plaited bamboo, and this
-is covered with a pigment which, when dry, is softened on a primitive
-lathe. Then red lacquer is put on by hand, and the bowl is dried in the
-sun. When dry it is buried for some days in order that it may harden.
-Finally it is engraved, and often inlaid with gold.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 46.
-Bhamo from the Irawaddy.] [Sidenote: 47.
-China Street, Bhamo.] [Sidenote: 48.
-Kachin Women, Bhamo.] [Sidenote: 49.
-Houses at Bhamo.] We approach Bhamo, at the head of the Irawaddy
-navigation, lying low along the bank of the river, twenty miles from the
-Chinese frontier. There are naturally many Chinese at Bhamo. This is
-China Street. Here, on the other hand, is a group of Kachin women,
-heavy-faced, in picturesque costume. The Kachins are the hill tribes of
-the northern frontier of Burma, as the Shans are of the eastern frontier
-and the Chins of the western. Until quite recently the Kachins often
-raided the caravans passing from Bhamo to China. They are now becoming
-civilised under British rule. The Burmese people proper, of ancient
-civilisation, are a relatively small population confined to the valley
-and the delta. Here we see a row of houses at Bhamo, raised high upon
-piles. The change which has come over Burma since the British occupation
-may be appreciated from the fact that twenty years ago it was no
-uncommon sight on the voyage up from Katha to Bhamo to see along the
-river banks, and on rafts floating down the river, the dead bodies of
-Kachins who had been tortured to death under the terrible rule of the
-kings of Mandalay.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 50.
-The Gokteik Gorge and Bridge.] [Sidenote: 51.
-Native House, Hsipaw.] [Sidenote: 52.
-The Bazaar, Hsipaw.] From Mandalay a railway runs eastward into the Shan
-country. At one point this line crosses a gorge by a steel bridge,
-nearly half a mile long and over 800 feet above the water of the stream.
-The bridge is so light in design that its great size and real solidity
-are difficult to grasp. Beyond this bridge we come to the chief place of
-the Shans, Hsipaw. Here are a couple of scenes in Hsipaw, the one of a
-Shan house, the other of a Shan market.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 53.
-Pagan.] [Sidenote: 54.
-The Ananda Temple, Pagan.] [Sidenote: 55.
-The Ananda Temple, nearer view of the west side.] [Sidenote: 56.
-Buddha Image at Pagan.] To realise the antiquity and the splendour of
-early Burmese civilisation, we must descend the Irawaddy below Mandalay
-to a place called Pagan. There, for some ten miles beside the river, and
-for three miles back from its bank, are the ruins of a great capital
-which flourished about the time of the Norman Conquest of England. From
-the centre of the ruined city it is impossible to point in any direction
-in which a pagoda or a temple is not visible. We have here a general
-view of the remains, and then the Ananda Temple, seen in the midst of a
-bank of vegetation, from which at various points rise other smaller red
-and white ruins. The Ananda Temple was built more than eight hundred
-years ago by the Thatons, the original inhabitants of the country, who
-were overcome by the invading Burmans. Some thirty thousand of these
-Thatons were brought to Pagan as slaves, and set to build the pagodas
-and temples, just as during the captivity in Egypt the Israelites were
-employed in building the pyramids. Here is the Ananda Temple close at
-hand, white and glittering in the sunshine, as though built of sugar. If
-we enter the great portal—there are three other portals similar, for the
-plan of the building is that of a cross—we find facing us a huge image
-of the Buddha, over ten yards in height.
-
-Buddhism was developed from Hinduism. It originated as a revolt from the
-excessive ritualism of the Brahmans. We have seen that Hinduism became
-an all-embracing system of religious ritual and social organisation, but
-that alongside, as it were, of this process there was evolved a
-philosophical system based upon two theories: the belief in a Universal
-Soul as the centre of reality, and the belief in the ultimate identity
-of the Individual and the Universal Soul. In the sixth century before
-Christ India was seething and fermenting with spiritual thought. A great
-teacher was called for, and such a one was given to the world in
-Gautama, the Buddha, that is to say, the Enlightened or Awakened One.
-
-Gautama was born on the frontiers of Nepal at the foot of the great
-Himalaya range about the year 557 before Christ. He was the only son of
-a chief or king. At the age of eighteen he was married to the daughter
-of the chief of a neighbouring clan, and a son was born to him. But the
-yearnings of a reformer were stirring within Gautama, and he could not
-rest. So one night in secret he left his wife and infant and went out
-into the world a wanderer in search of “that inward illumination on
-‘great matters,’ which was the cherished dream of every thinker in that
-memorable era.” He followed to no purpose the paths of metaphysical
-speculation, of mental discipline, and of ascetic rigour, and at last on
-one eventful night, as he sat under the Bodhi Tree at Gaya, in Behar,
-“he reaped the fruit of his long spiritual effort, the truth of things
-being of a sudden so clearly revealed to him that from henceforth he
-never swerved for a moment from devotion to his creed and to the mission
-that it imposed upon him.”
-
-The truth which Buddha discovered and preached to humanity was that the
-salvation of man lay not in sacrifices and ceremonial, nor in penances,
-but in spiritual effort and a holy life, in charity, forgiveness, and
-love. The sages of Hinduism had taught as a doctrine for the few that
-the Universal Soul is the only reality, and is therefore the real self
-of every man. Buddha gave to the world a system by which the truth of
-this doctrine could be realised in the life of an ordinary man.
-
-The four-fold truth on which Buddha’s whole scheme hinges may be
-expressed as follows:—Life on earth is full of suffering; suffering is
-generated by desire; the extinction of desire involves the extinction of
-suffering; the extinction of desire, and therefore of suffering, is the
-outcome of a righteous life. But how is desire with the suffering which
-it generates to be extinguished? The answer of Buddhism is that the
-eightfold path which leads to the extinction of suffering is by “Right
-Belief, Right Thought, Right Speech, Right Action, Right Effort, Right
-Means of Livelihood, Right Remembrance and Self-discipline, Right
-Concentration of Thought.” In Buddha’s system, as he himself gave it to
-the world, doctrines and beliefs are of secondary importance. Fully
-alive to the truth that “what we do, besides being the outward and
-visible sign of our inward and spiritual state, reacts naturally and
-necessarily on what we are, and so moulds our character and controls our
-destiny,” he formulated for his followers a simple system of moral
-rules, obedience to which would set them on the path which leads to
-salvation. On this path there are successive stages, and each of these
-stages is marked by the breaking of some of the fetters which bind man
-to earth and to self, and when all the fetters are at last broken then
-the Holy One, as he is now called, has reached his goal. In other words,
-he has attained to that state which Buddhists call Nirvana, a state of
-“perfect knowledge, perfect love, perfect peace, and therefore of
-perfect bliss.”
-
-The Buddhist system emphasises the importance of education and
-discipline. All over Burma there are schools conducted by Buddhist
-monastic orders at which instruction is gratuitously given to boys in
-the vernacular of the country, and one rarely finds a native of Burma
-who cannot read and write his own language. It is also part of the
-religious discipline of every Burman boy that he should become a novice
-in a monastic order and live for a time the life of a monk. The aim of
-this training is to teach obedience and self-control, and thus in these
-days of change, when strange and disintegrating influences are at work
-in the East, the Burman retains, to a certain extent at all events, his
-simplicity and his kindly faith. To appreciate the influence of Buddhism
-in Burma let us remember that a Buddhist priest is supported entirely by
-gifts in kind, and never touches a coin.
-
-For some centuries Buddhism made great progress in India, the land of
-its birth; but in the end Hinduism re-asserted itself, and to-day there
-are very few Buddhists in India proper, though in Burma nearly all the
-people are of that faith. This is the chief cause of the difference in
-almost every respect between Burma and India. In the Ananda Temple, as
-we have seen, there are four images of Buddha, for it is the tradition
-of the religion that before Gautama there were in former ages of the
-world three other teachers who reached enlightenment and were therefore
-called Buddha.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 57.
-The Wilderness of Bricks, Pagan.] [Sidenote: 58.
-Gadawpalin Temple, Pagan.] [Sidenote: 59.
-Vultures on a ruined Temple at Pagan.] [Sidenote: 60.
-Cactus at Pagan.] [Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 6.] Here, still at Pagan, is
-the so-called Wilderness of Bricks, with the Ananda Temple in the
-distance to the right. Then we have the entry to one of the other
-temples, and then yet another Pagan ruin with vultures on the summit.
-Finally we have a scene of tall cactus growth, also at Pagan, for this
-city stands in what is known as the Dry Belt of Burma. The map shows us
-that two ranges of mountains extend northward, respectively to east and
-west of the Irawaddy valley. The winds of summer and autumn blow from
-the southwest, from the sea, bringing moisture which falls in heavy
-rains on the west sides of the mountains and over the delta. At Rangoon
-there is an annual rainfall of over one hundred inches, or more than
-three times the rainfall of London. To the east of the western range,
-however, as we leave the delta on our journey up the river, there is a
-low-lying district near Pagan, which is screened from the sea winds by
-the continuous mountain ridge, and here the rainfall is small, as little
-as twenty inches in the year, but the climate is hot and evaporation is
-rapid. In this district, therefore, cactus is the typical vegetation,
-but elsewhere in Burma are rich crops or the most luxuriant forests of
-leafy trees. These forests supply the teak wood, which is floated down
-the river. They are full of game, and the haunt of poisonous snakes.
-Wild peacocks come from the woods to feed on the rice when it is ripe,
-and tigers are not unknown in the villages. Only a few years ago a tiger
-was shot on one of the ledges of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in the midst of
-Rangoon.
-
-Notwithstanding the age of some of its temples and pagodas, Burma is in
-the main a new country, in which Nature is still masterful. It is the
-largest of the provinces under the Government of India, but all told it
-contains but ten million people—Burmese, Chinese, Hindus, and the Hill
-Tribes.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE III.
-
-
- ---
-
- =BENGAL.=
-
- ---
-
- THE MONSOONS.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of Bengal.] From Burma we take steamer again and cross the sea to
-Bengal, the Metropolitan Province of India. The heart of Bengal is one
-of the largest deltas in the world, a great plain of moist silt brought
-down by the rivers Ganges and Brahmaputra from the Himalaya mountains.
-But along the borders of the Province, and especially to the west, much
-hill country is included.
-
-The map shows to the north the high tableland of Tibet, edged by the
-Himalaya range, whose southern slopes descend steeply, but with many
-foot hills, to the level, low-lying plains of the two great river
-valleys. Eastward of Bengal there is a ridge, rising to heights of more
-than six thousand feet, densely forested, which separates the Irawaddy
-valley of Burma from the plains of India. This ridge throws out a spur
-westward, which near its end rises a little into the Garo hills. The
-deeply trenched narrow valley of the Brahmaputra, known as the Assam
-Valley, lies between the Garo hills and the Himalayas. Away in the west
-of Bengal is another hill spur, bearing the name of Rajmahal, which
-forms the northeastern point of the plateau of Southern India. The
-Ganges flows through the plain bounded southward by this plateau and
-northward by the Himalayas. A broad lowland gateway is left between the
-Garo and the Rajmahal hills, and through this, on either hand, the
-Brahmaputra and Ganges rivers turn southward and converge gradually
-until they join to form the vast Megna estuary. The country which lies
-west of the Megna is the Ganges delta, traversed by many minor channels
-which branch from the right bank of the river before it enters the
-Megna. East of the Megna is another deltaic land whose silt is derived
-in the main from the Garo hills. It is said that the highest rainfall in
-the world occurs in these hills, when the monsoon sweeps northward from
-the Bay of Bengal and blows against their southern face. The rainfall on
-a single day in the rainy season is often as great as the whole annual
-rainfall of London. Little wonder that there is abundance of silt for
-the formation of the fertile plains below.
-
-The approach to the coast, as may be concluded from this geographical
-description, presents little of interest. As you enter the Hooghly
-river, the westernmost of the deltaic channels, you see broad grey mud
-banks, with here and there a palm tree. From time to time, as the ship
-passes some more solid ground, there are villages of thatched huts
-surrounded by banana plantations with tall broad green leaves.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Approaching Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 3.
-Coolie Emigrant Ship on the Hooghly.] [Sidenote: 4.
-The Hooghly at Calcutta, showing the High Court.] [Sidenote: 5.
-The Same.] Calcutta, the chief port and capital of India, is placed no
-less than eighty miles up the Hooghly, on the eastern bank. As we
-approach it we pass mills and factories with tall chimneys throwing out
-black smoke. A steamer crosses us, outward bound, carrying, as we are
-told, coolies going to work in South Africa; for the basin of the
-Ganges, unlike Burma, is one of the most densely peopled lands in the
-world, and sends forth annually some thousand emigrants. At last we find
-ourselves amid a throng of shipping, and our steamer ties up to a buoy
-in the turbid river, with the great city of Calcutta on the eastern
-bank, and the large industrial town of Howrah on the western bank, and
-not a hill in sight round all the horizon, only the great dome of the
-Post Office rising white in the sunshine.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 6.
-Plan of Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 7.
-Palm Avenue, Calcutta Botanical Gardens.] Let us examine the plan of
-this mighty city with more than a million inhabitants, second in the
-Empire in population, and one of the twelve largest towns in the world.
-The Hooghly flows southward. On its eastern bank stands Fort William, a
-fortress which with its outworks occupies a space of nearly a thousand
-acres. Around, to the north, the east, and the south of the fort, is a
-wide green plain, the Maidan, separating the fort from the city. From
-north to south the Maidan extends for some two miles, and it is about a
-mile broad from east to west. In its southern end is the racecourse,
-where are held at Christmas time the races, the principal social event
-of Calcutta life. To the east of the Maidan is the European quarter,
-with its hotels, and clubs, and private houses. To the north, in a
-garden, is Government House, the residence of the Viceroy of India.
-Beside Government House, and also facing the Maidan, are the High Court
-of Justice and the Town Hall. Behind Government House is Dalhousie
-Square, occupied by a green, in the centre of which is a large tank.
-Facing this square is the Bengal Government Secretariat, between which
-and the river are the Post Office and the Customs House. Away to the
-north is the great native city. One bridge only connects Calcutta with
-the industrial town of Howrah, where are jute mills and great
-engineering works. In Howrah also is the terminus of the East Indian
-Railway. A hundred years ago Howrah was but a small village; to-day it
-contains some 160,000 people. Finally to the south of Howrah on the west
-bank of the river are the celebrated Botanical Gardens, containing many
-great palms, and most notable of all a banyan tree whose circumference
-measures nearly a thousand feet. North of Calcutta, and on the east bank
-of the Hooghly, is Barrackpur, with the country house of the Viceroy of
-India. There is a military cantonment at Barrackpur, and also a garrison
-in Fort William.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 8.
-The Howrah Bridge, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 9.
-Scene from the Howrah Bridge.] Nothing impresses the stranger in
-Calcutta more than the density of life in this populous city, the focus
-of a great and fertile province. At no spot is it more evident than on
-the Howrah Bridge, where from morning to night a close throng crosses
-and re-crosses. From the approach to the bridge we look down on a crowd
-bathing in the muddy but sacred water. Cheek by jowl with the busy
-commercial traffic of the bridge, we have here the religion of the East.
-Purified by the bath, and clothed again, the bather sits in the crowd
-while for a few pies, or say a farthing, his sect mark is painted afresh
-on his forehead.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 10.
-Calcutta from Howrah across the Hooghly.] The buildings of Calcutta are
-worthy of the capital rank of the city, but they are of European design,
-for Calcutta is a modern city. Fort William was so named from King
-William III., in whose reign, little more than two centuries ago, Job
-Charnock, a factor or commercial representative of the East India
-Company, bought the little village Kalikata, probably so named from a
-local shrine of the goddess Kali. There he built, on the site of the
-present Customs House, the first Fort William. Within ten years the
-population had grown to some ten thousand, and it has never ceased
-growing to this day, although at one time, in the middle of the
-eighteenth century, there was an episode in the history of the place
-which for a time somewhat checked its advance. Suraj-ud-Daulah, the
-Nawab of Bengal, quarrelled with the English at Fort William, and
-finally attacked them. Most of them escaped down the river, but a
-hundred and forty-six were taken prisoners when Fort William fell, and
-were confined for a night in a small cell measuring 22 feet by 14 feet,
-and some 18 feet high. It was at the end of the hot season, and only
-twenty-three of the prisoners came out alive the next morning. This
-tragedy is known in history as the Black Hole of Calcutta. Soon
-afterwards Colonel Clive, the same Clive who as a Captain defended Arcot
-in the south of India, arrived with reinforcements and recaptured
-Calcutta. Fort William was rebuilt on a larger scale, and in a position
-a little south of the original site.
-
-Suraj-ud-Daulah quarrelled with the East India Company again, and Clive
-led an army against him into the north of Bengal, and defeated him and
-his French allies in the famous battle of Plassey. The British force
-amounted to only three thousand men, of whom but two hundred were
-English, whereas the Nawab had an army of nearly forty thousand. In 1765
-the whole of Bengal was annexed by the East India Company, and from 1772
-was ruled from Calcutta. Suraj-ud-Daulah’s capital had been at a place
-called Murshidabad, a hundred miles to the north of Calcutta.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 11.
-Black Hole Monument, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 12.
-The Marble Pavement, Black Hole, Calcutta.] Here, at the corner of
-Dalhousie Square, is the Black Hole Monument, erected by Lord Curzon
-when Viceroy of India, in the year 1902, upon the site of the original
-monument which was set up by one of the twenty-three survivors; and here
-is a marble pavement marking the exact position of the Black Hole.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 13.
-Bengal Government Office, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 14.
-The High Court, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 15.
-Eastern Gateway, Government House, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 16.
-Government House, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 17.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 18.
-Imperial Museum, Calcutta.] We have next the great red brick building in
-Dalhousie Square known as the Bengal Secretariat. Not far away are the
-public offices of the Government of India, but most of the staff are
-removed to Simla in the hills during the hot and rainy seasons. Here,
-facing the Maidan, is the frontage of the Supreme Court of Justice, with
-a fine tower nearly two hundred feet high, which we saw just now from
-the Hooghly. Next is the eastern gateway to the grounds of Government
-House, and here is Government House itself, with the Union Jack flying
-above it, and Indian sentries on guard. It was built a little more than
-a hundred years ago, and contains the throne of Tippu Sultan, the tyrant
-of Mysore, of whom we heard in the first lecture. Opposite Government
-House, on the Maidan, is the Jubilee Statue of Victoria, the
-Queen-Empress of India, which was unveiled in the year 1902. Here we
-have a more distant view of Government House, as seen from the Maidan,
-with a statue of one of the Viceroys in the foreground. Next, in
-Chowringhee road, is the Imperial Museum, a fine building with a
-valuable Gallery of Antiquities.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 19.
-Musulmans at Prayer in the Maidan.] [Sidenote: 20.
-Ochterlony Monument, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 21.
-Calcutta from the Ochterlony Monument.] [Sidenote: 22.
-Race Course, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 23.
-St. Paul’s Cathedral, Calcutta.] [Sidenote: 24.
-Tiretta Bazaar Street, Calcutta.] Let us walk round the Maidan, and note
-the curiously mingled life upon it. Here, for instance, are Musulmans at
-prayer, an impressive sight that may be witnessed every evening. Here we
-are at the foot of the Ochterlony monument, a column erected in honour
-of Sir David Ochterlony, a successful general in the wars with Nepal.
-From the top of it we have a fine view over the city. Notice Government
-House and the High Court. At the other end of the Maidan is the
-racecourse and polo ground, to which we have already referred, and here
-amid the trees in the southeastern corner, beside the tank, is the spire
-of the English Cathedral. Here, in contrast, is a view in the native
-city. The streets are with a few exceptions very narrow, as in most
-southern cities where the sunshine is dreaded and where shade is
-essential to comfort.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 25.
-Jute Mills, Howrah.] [Sidenote: 26.
-A Workshop in Iron Foundry at Howrah.] [Sidenote: 27.
-The same, Plate Girders.] [Sidenote: 28.
-Workpeople bathing at Howrah.] Now we cross to Howrah, to the great jute
-mills, where the jute fibre grown up country is spun and woven in
-competition with the jute manufacture of Dundee. In these mills you will
-find that the machinery bears the names of Dundee and Leeds makers, for
-the industry is relatively new in India, and has not yet reached the
-stage of manufacturing its own machinery. Next we pass into the
-engineering works of Messrs. Burn and Co., where some five thousand
-natives and some sixty Europeans are employed in the steel industry.
-Here are plate girders made in these works for railway bridge building,
-and here in this same industrial town of Howrah are people bathing after
-work in the jute mills.
-
-Let us recount the essence of what we have seen—the Hooghly channel from
-the ocean, bearing inward the European ships; the Shrine of the Goddess
-Kali; the Fort which protected the factory of the East India Company;
-the Monument of the Black Hole; Government House and the Secretariat,
-whence the vast empire is ruled; the Cathedral and the Racecourse of the
-white rulers; the Courts of Justice, which, more than any military
-power, betoken the essence of British rule in India; the Native City
-with its narrow ways and crowded life drawn from the surrounding
-agricultural plain; the Howrah Bridge with the steel and jute mills
-beyond, which imply a vast incoming change in the economic life of this
-eastern land; and the Botanic Gardens with their wealth of vegetation
-typifying the ultimate resources of India—the tropical sunshine and the
-torrential rains.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 1.] Now let us run northward by the East
-Bengal Railway for some three hundred miles to Darjeeling, the hill
-station of Calcutta, as Ootacamund is the hill station of Madras. We
-traverse the dead level of the plain with its thickly set villages and
-tropical vegetation. There are some seven hundred and fifty thousand
-villages in India, and these village communities are the real India, for
-only about ten per cent. of the total population is contained in the
-cities. Yet Bengal in its present limits, which exclude Eastern Bengal,
-has a population of more than fifty millions, on an area slightly
-smaller than that of the United Kingdom. Now the total population of the
-United Kingdom is only some forty-four millions, and of these forty-four
-millions fully one-third inhabit some forty large cities. Britain is
-therefore mainly industrial, whereas India is mainly agricultural,
-nine-tenths of all the people in India being supported by occupations
-connected with agriculture. From such statistics some idea may be gained
-of the density of the agricultural population of Bengal, a Province with
-one great city only, as greatness of cities is measured in our British
-Islands.
-
-The rule of these village-dotted plains is the main daily business of
-the Indian Government. A great Province like Bengal is divided into
-Districts, each of them about as large as the English county of
-Lincolnshire or a little larger. On the average each of them contains
-from half a million to a million and a half of population. There are
-some 250 of such Districts in British India, that is to say in that
-greater part of India which is administered directly by British
-officials. In each District there is a chief executive officer, styled
-the Collector or Deputy Commissioner. He is the head of the District
-administration, and he is also the principal Magistrate in the District.
-Under the Collector there is a staff of Executive Officers, British and
-Indian, of whom the chief are the Assistant Collector, the Deputy
-Collector, the Superintendent of Police, the Engineer, and the Civil
-Surgeon. The Collector is so called because in the days of the old East
-India Company his main function was to collect revenue. In his other
-capacity of Magistrate, he is the head of the Magisterial Courts of the
-District. The laws which he and his assistants administer are made by
-the Viceroy in Council, and in a subordinate way by the
-Lieutenant-Governors and their Councils in the various Provinces. The
-Collector does not decide civil suits. These, as well as all serious
-criminal cases, come before Civil Judges of different grades, who are
-independent of the Collector.
-
-Therefore we find in India that essential division of the Legislature,
-Judicature, and Executive which is the chief security of freedom in all
-British communities. Subject to the law and to the instructions of the
-superior Provincial Officers, the District Collector is, however,
-supreme, except in the Civil Courts of his District. He it is who alone
-for the vast majority of the Indian population represents the Raj or
-Rule of the King-Emperor. Between the Collectors and the
-Lieutenant-Governors are intermediate controlling officers known as
-Commissioners, who superintend Divisions or groups of several Districts.
-
-The Higher Civil Service of India, recruited by competitive examination
-in England, consists of some twelve hundred officials—the Commissioners,
-the Collectors of the Districts, and some of the Assistant Collectors.
-The seniors of the Civil Service man the Provincial and Supreme
-Governments of India. Only the Governor-General and the Governors of
-Madras and Bombay are selected from outside the Indian Civil Service and
-sent out from Britain.
-
-The Collector is constantly touring his District, in order that he may
-know it from personal investigation. A good Collector may become very
-popular, and may do much to make his District prosperous. It is a great
-position which may thus be held by young Englishmen of, say, thirty
-years of age. They are rulers of a million people at an age when their
-brothers of the professional classes at home are struggling to establish
-themselves as young barristers or doctors or clergymen.
-
-It must not be thought, however, that the Government of India, either in
-its Legislative, Judicial, or Executive capacities, is wholly British,
-and alien from the subject population. The Legislative Councils of the
-Governor-General and also of the Lieutenant-Governors in the Provinces
-contain elected Indian representatives, both Hindu and Musulman. The
-provincial Councils have, in fact, non-official majorities. Only in the
-Council of the Governor-General is there an official majority. Many of
-the Judges even of the High Courts are Indian, either Hindu or Musulman.
-In the Executive some of the Collectors of Districts are Indian, and
-also the great majority of the assistant officials, who in the aggregate
-are an immense number.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 29.
-Darjeeling Railway, Chinbatti Loop.] [Sidenote: 30.
-Darjeeling Railway, Loop No. 4.] [Sidenote: 31.
-Darjeeling.] As we think over these things we are continuing our journey
-northward. We must change from train to steamer as we cross the Ganges.
-The passage of the river occupies about twenty minutes from one
-low-lying bank to the other. Then, as we traverse the endless rice
-fields with their clumps of graceful bamboo, the hills become visible
-across the northern horizon. We run into a belt of jungle, and change to
-the mountain railway, which carries us up the steep hill front with many
-a turn and twist. There is tall forest on the lower slopes, of teak and
-other great trees, hung thickly with creepers. Presently the wood
-becomes smaller, and we enter the tea plantations with their trim rows
-of green bushes. Far below us, at the foot of the steep forest, spreads
-to the southern horizon the vast cultivated plain. Trees of the fir
-tribe now take the place of leafy trees, and we rise to the ridge top on
-which is placed Darjeeling, a settlement of detached villas in compounds
-or enclosures, hanging on the steep hill slopes. Darjeeling is about
-seven thousand feet above sea level, on a ridge overlooking northward
-the gorge of the Rungeet River.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 32.
-Kinchinjunga, from Darjeeling.] [Sidenote: 33.
-The Himalaya.] [Sidenote: 34.
-Mount Everest.] In the early morning, if we are fortunate in the weather
-and rise before the sun, we may see from Darjeeling, over the valley to
-north of the hill ridge on which we stand, and over successive ridge
-tops beyond, the mighty snow range of the Himalayas, fifty miles away,
-with the peak of Kinchinjunga, more than five miles high, dominating the
-landscape. Behind it, a little to the west, and visible from Tiger Hill
-near Darjeeling, though not from Darjeeling itself, is Mount Everest,
-the highest mountain in the world, five and half miles high. The
-glittering wall of white mountains, visible across the vast chasm and
-bare granite summits in the foreground, seems to hang in the sky as
-though belonging to another world. The broad distance, and the sudden
-leap to supreme height, give to this scene a mysterious and almost
-visionary grandeur. It is, however, only occasionally that the
-culminating peaks can be seen, for they are often veiled in cloud.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 35.
-Tibetan Woman.] [Sidenote: 36.
-Nepali Ladies.] The people of Sikkim in the hills beyond Darjeeling are
-Highlanders of Mongolian stock and not Indian. They are of Buddhist
-religion like the Burmans, and not Hindu or Musulman like the
-inhabitants of India. They are small, sturdy folk, with oblique cut
-eyes, and a Chinese expression, and they have the easy-going humorous
-character of the Burmans, though not the delicacy and civilization of
-those inhabitants of the sunny lowland. They and the kindred and
-neighbour Tibetans rarely wash, and the women anoint their faces with a
-mixture of pigs’ blood, which gives them a dark and mottled appearance.
-Here we have in colour a portrait of a Tibetan woman, and then a group
-of Nepali ladies, with various head ornaments.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 37.
-Political Map of India, distinguishing Bengal, Eastern Bengal and Assam,
-Nepal, and Bhutan.] It is an interesting fact that these hill people
-should belong to the race which spreads over the vast Chinese Empire.
-That race here advances to the last hill brinks which overlook the
-Indian lowland. The political map of this portion of India illustrates a
-parallel fact. While the plains are administered directly by British
-officials, the mountain slopes descending to them are ruled by native
-princes whose territories form a strip along the northern boundary of
-India. North of Assam and Bengal we have in succession from east to
-west, in the belt of hill country, the lands of Bhutan, Sikkim, and
-Nepal. From Nepal are recruited the Gurkha Regiments of the Indian army,
-the Gurkhas being a race of these same hill men, of small stature and
-sturdy agility, of Hindu religion, but of more or less Mongolian stock,
-and therefore intermediate between the Tibetans and the Hindus.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 38.
-The Bazaar, Darjeeling.] [Sidenote: 39.
-The same—Nepali Vegetable Sellers.] [Sidenote: 40.
-Man carrying Fodder, Darjeeling.] [Sidenote: 41.
-Sikkim Peasants.] [Sidenote: 42.
-Native Loom, Darjeeling.] [Sidenote: 43.
-Village in Sikkim.] [Sidenote: 44.
-The same.] Here we have a typical market scene in Darjeeling. Notice the
-women doing coolie work. Next are vegetable sellers in the Darjeeling
-Bazaar, and here is a man carrying fodder. The man with his back turned
-is a Lepcha of Sikkim. Then we have a group of Sikkim peasants drinking
-the native beer, made from marwa, a kind of millet. They draw it up
-through straws from cups made of bamboo. Next we see a native working a
-hand loom, and then a village in Sikkim. Here in the same village we see
-a woman carrying baggage.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 45.
-Lama Monastery, near Darjeeling.] [Sidenote: 46.
-The same—Devil Dancers.] [Sidenote: 47.
-The same—interior.] [Sidenote: 48.
-The Amban Dance, Darjeeling.] [Sidenote: 49.
-The same—another view.] Near Darjeeling there is a small Buddhist
-monastery, a two-storey building of which we have here a view. Notice
-the semi-circle of tall poles, with linen flags, on which prayers are
-inscribed. By the entrance are a number of prayer-wheels fastened to the
-wall. Outside the monastery are men wearing the costumes of devil
-dancers, such as are used in Buddhist religious ceremonies of these
-parts. There are long trumpets placed against the door post. Let us
-glance for a moment within this monastery, and see the hideous wooden
-masks, and the silk dresses of the priestly dancers. Two scenes follow,
-from Darjeeling itself, of an elaborate dance by Tibetan peasants called
-the Amban dance. The lions and dragons are each made of two men, whose
-bodies are hung with white yak hair and tails. They have grotesque
-heads, with enormous eyes and gaping mouths, from which hang large
-scarlet tongues. So we obtain some idea of the stage of barbarism in
-which the hill tribes remain.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 50.
-North Bengal Mounted Rifles, Lebong.] [Sidenote: 51.
-The same—Sword Pegging.] [Sidenote: 52.
-Coolies at Darjeeling.] In contrast with these scenes are now two slides
-illustrating the volunteer service of the white tea planters. Of these
-the second shows tent-pegging on the Lebong parade ground, above the
-Rungeet river. This form of tent-pegging is with a sword, and not with
-the more usual lance. Here is a scene showing Darjeeling coolies
-returned from work in the tea gardens.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 53.
-The Rungeet Gorge.] [Sidenote: 54.
-The same.] [Sidenote: 55.
-The Rungeet Bridge, Sikkim.] [Sidenote: 56.
-A Himalayan Glacier.] [Sidenote: 57.
-Glacier-fed Torrent in the Himalaya.] [Sidenote: 58.
-Cane Bridge in the Himalaya.] Finally we have two views in the gorge of
-the Rungeet river, between Darjeeling and Sikkim, with precipitous
-sides, and then a glimpse of the Rungeet bridge. The Rungeet drains from
-the hills of Darjeeling, and from the snow mountains beyond, into a
-tributary of the Ganges. Several hundred such torrents burst in long
-succession through deep portals in the Himalayan foot hills and feed the
-great rivers of the plain, the Brahmaputra and the Ganges. They are
-perennial rivers, for they originate in the melting of the glaciers, and
-the Himalayan glaciers cover a vast area, being fed by the monsoon
-snows. Nearly all the agricultural wealth of Northern India owes its
-origin to the summer monsoon.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 59.
-Map of the Himalayan River System.] To understand the fundamental
-conditions governing the Indian climate let us examine the two
-concluding maps of this lecture. On the first of them all the country
-with an elevation of more than fifteen hundred feet is coloured with a
-dark brown, and that with a lower elevation is coloured a light brown. A
-great angle of the Indian lowland is seen to project northward into the
-Asiatic upland. For fifteen hundred miles the Himalaya limits the
-lowland with a gracefully curving mountain edge, and from this edge
-there flow the series of tributaries which gather to the rivers Indus,
-Ganges, and Brahmaputra. Beyond, to the south, are seen in dark brown
-the higher portions of the Deccan plateau.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 60.
-Map of South-West Monsoon.] Now compare with this the succeeding map,
-which shows the winds of the summer time and the average rainfall. The
-winds sweep in from the southwest, but as they cross Bengal they bend so
-as to blow from the south and then from the southeast. The dark arrow
-with the broken shaft striking northwestward through the heart of India
-represents the usual track of the storms which prevail in the Central
-Provinces during the summer season, producing the havoc along the Madras
-coast and northward, of which we spoke in the second lecture. The
-maximum rainfall, it will be seen, occurs in three regions—first on the
-west face of the Western Ghats, and on the west face of the mountains of
-Ceylon; secondly in the east of the Indian Peninsula near the track of
-the storm centres; and thirdly along the south face of the Garo hills
-and of the Himalayas north of Bengal, and on the west face of the
-various mountain ranges of Burma. In other words, in the first and third
-cases the rain is due to the winds striking the mountain ranges, and is
-great only on the windward faces of those ranges. In the second case the
-rainfall is mainly the result of the storms. On the other hand, there is
-drought at this season under the lee of the mountains of Ceylon and of
-the Western Ghats, and again in a comparatively small belt, near Pagan,
-along the Irawaddy river, between the western and the eastern ridges of
-Burma. Tibet, which is under the lee of the Himalayas, and northwestern
-India, which is out of the track of the southwest winds, are wide
-deserts. This map explains the exceptional fertility and density of
-population of the Province of Bengal.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 1.] India is so vast a country, and so varied,
-that no traveller can hope to visit all parts of it. On our journey from
-Calcutta to Darjeeling, we have left the province of Assam away to the
-east of us. Assam is a through road nowhither, for high and difficult
-mountains close the eastern end of its great valley. Moreover, though it
-has vast natural resources, Assam is a country which throughout history
-has lain for the most part outside Indian civilisation, and, even
-to-day, has but a sparse population and a relatively small commercial
-development. Let us, then, just remember in passing that this remote
-province of India has a geography which, though simple, is built on a
-very grand scale.
-
-The San-po river rises high on the plateau of Tibet northward of
-Lucknow. For more than 700 miles it flows eastward over the plateau in
-rear of the Himalayan peaks; then it turns sharply southward and
-descends steeply through a deep gorge little known, for it is tenanted
-by hostile tribes. Where it emerges from the mountains the river has a
-level not a thousand feet above the sea, and here, turning westward, it
-forms the Brahmaputra—that is to say, the Son of Brahma, the Creator.
-The Brahmaputra flows for 450 miles westward through the valley of
-Assam, deeply trenched between the snowy wall of the Himalayas on the
-one hand and the forested mountains of the Burmese border and the Khasia
-and Garo hills on the other hand. The river “rolls down the valley in a
-vast sheet of water,” depositing banks of silt at the smallest
-obstruction, “so that islands form and re-form in constant succession.
-Broad channels break away and rejoin the main river after wide
-divergences, which are subjected to no control. The swamps on either
-hand are flooded in the rainy season, till the lower reaches of the
-valley are one vast shining sea, from which the hills slope up on either
-side.” The traffic on the river is maintained chiefly by exports of tea
-and timber, with imports of rice for the labourers on the tea estates.
-Some day, when great sums of money are available for capital
-expenditure, the Brahmaputra will be controlled, and Assam will become
-the seat of teeming production and a dense population. The Indian Empire
-contains some 300 million people; but, as we learn, it also contains
-some of the chief virgin resources of the world.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE IV.
-
-
- ---
-
- =THE UNITED PROVINCES.=
-
- ---
-
- THE MUTINY.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of India, distinguishing the United Provinces.] Northwestward from
-Bengal, over the great plain of the Ganges, we enter the next region of
-India. The United Provinces of Agra and Oudh have an area almost equal
-to that of Great Britain, and a population as dense. When we go from
-Bengal to the United Provinces, it is as though we were crossing from
-one to another of the great continental States of Europe, say from
-Germany into France.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Map of the United Provinces.] The Himalayan mountains lie to the north;
-the hills of Central India to the south. The plain between them, raised
-only a little above the sea, is two hundred miles across, measured from
-the foot hills of the Himalayas to the first rise of the Central Indian
-hills. Two great rivers, the Ganges and the Jumna, emerge from Himalayan
-valleys, and traverse the plain southward, and presently southeastward,
-leaving between them a tongue of land, known in Hindustani as the Doab,
-or two waters. Mesopotamia, between the rivers Euphrates and Tigris in
-the Nearer East, signifies the same in the Greek language. The Jumna
-joins the Ganges near the southern limit of the plain, and in the angle
-of the confluence is the large city of Allahabad, the capital and seat
-of the Lieutenant-Governor of the United Provinces. Other great
-tributaries flow to the Ganges from more eastern parts of the Himalayas,
-and bending southeastward join the main river one after another.
-
-Five considerable cities focus the great population of the United
-Provinces—Allahabad, already mentioned, Cawnpore, Lucknow, Agra, and
-Benares. A hundred miles above Allahabad, on the right or south bank of
-the Ganges, is the city of Cawnpore, and on the opposite or northern
-bank extends the old Kingdom of Oudh, with Lucknow for its capital,
-situated some forty miles northeast of Cawnpore. Agra, which gives its
-name to all that part of the United Provinces which did not formerly
-belong to Oudh, is situated on the right or south bank of the Jumna, a
-hundred and fifty miles west of Lucknow. Eighty miles below Allahabad,
-on the north bank of the Ganges, is Benares, the most sacred city of the
-Hindus. All these distances between the cities of Agra, Cawnpore,
-Lucknow, Allahabad, and Benares, lie over the dead level of the plain,
-dusty, and like a desert in the dry season, but green and fertile after
-the rains. Scattered over the plain are innumerable villages, in which
-dwell nineteen out of twenty of the inhabitants of the joint Provinces.
-Lucknow is the largest of the cities, yet it has only a quarter of a
-million inhabitants.
-
-The United Provinces are the heart of India, the typical Indian land,
-safe from invasion from the north by reason of the Himalayan barrier and
-the desert plateau of Tibet; relatively inaccessible from the ocean, and
-not conquered by Britain until long after Bengal had become a Province
-of the East India Company; relatively safe also from northwestern
-invasion. Its people remain dominantly Hindu in their religion and
-customs, whereas the great province of the Punjab further northwestward
-has a majority of Musulmans. Southward is the plateau of Central India,
-comparatively thinly peopled.
-
-The language of the United Provinces, and of considerable districts to
-west, south, and east of them, is Hindi, the most direct derivative of
-the ancient Sanskrit tongue, whose use was contemporary with that of
-Latin and Greek. All three of these ancient tongues, as well as Old
-Persian, belong to the family of the Indo-European languages. Sanskrit
-was brought into India by a conquering people from the northwest. Hindi
-is now spoken by a hundred million people in all the northern centre of
-India. It is the language not only of the United Provinces but also of
-the western part of Bengal which is known as Behar, of that part of the
-Punjab which surrounds Delhi, and of a wide district in Central India
-ruled by the great Maratha chiefs, Sindhia and Holkar. Other tongues of
-similar origin are spoken in the regions around—Bengali in Bengal,
-Marathi and Gujrati in the lands which lie east and north of Bombay, and
-Punjabi in the Punjab. We must think of these various Indian languages
-as differing from one another much as French and Spanish and Italian
-differ, which are all derived from a common Latin source. The Hindi
-language was picked up by the Musulman conquerors of India, and by
-adding to it words of their own Persian speech they formed Urdu, the
-language of the camp. This is the language of educated Musulmans all
-over India to this day. Under the name of Hindustani it has become a
-sort of _lingua franca_ throughout India, and is used by Europeans when
-talking to their servants.
-
-Away to the south, beyond the limit of the Sanskrit tongues, in the
-province of Madras and neighbouring areas, are talked languages wholly
-alien from Sanskrit, and differing from Hindi, Bengali, Marathi,
-Gujrati, and Punjabi, much as the Turkish and Hungarian languages differ
-from the group of allied Indo-European tongues spoken in Western Europe.
-These southern Indian tongues are known as Dravidian. The most important
-of them are Telugu, spoken by twenty millions, and Tamil, spoken by some
-fifteen millions. The Hindu religion, however, is held by the great
-majority both of the Dravidian south and of the Indo-European north and
-centre.
-
-If there be one part of India which we may think of as the shrine of
-shrines in a land where religion rules all life, it is to be found in a
-triangle of cities just contained within the map before us. There on the
-Ganges we see Benares and Patna, and some fifty miles south of Patna the
-smaller town of Gaya. Benares from prehistoric times has been the focus
-of Hinduism. Patna was the capital of the chief Gangetic kingdom more
-than two thousand years ago, when the Greek ambassador Megasthenes,
-first of the Westerns, travelled thus far into the East. Gaya was the
-spot where Buddha, seeking to reform Hinduism some six hundred years
-before Christ, obtained enlightenment, and then migrated to teach at
-Benares, or rather at Sarnath, now in ruin, some three or four miles
-north of the present Benares. The peoples of all the vast Indian and
-Chinese world, from Karachi to Pekin and Tokyo, look to this little
-group of cities as the centre of holiness, whether they be followers of
-Brahma or of Buddha.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 3.
-Buddhist Tope at Sarnath.] [Sidenote: 4.
-Sculptures at Sarnath.] [Sidenote: 5.
-Lion-capital at Sarnath.] Old Benares, whose ruins are now known as
-Sarnath, was a few miles north of the existing city. We have here one of
-the Buddhist topes of Sarnath, which was the spot to which Buddha
-removed after he had received enlightenment at Gaya. Here he and his
-disciples began to teach. We have another view at Sarnath, showing some
-of the ancient sculptures, and a gigantic lion-capital recently
-excavated. Its size can be appreciated by noticing the man behind.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 6.
-Plan of Benares.] [Sidenote: 7.
-View across the Ganges to the Southern Shore.] [Sidenote: 8.
-Panchganga Ghat, Benares.] [Sidenote: 9.
-The Same—another view.] [Sidenote: 10.
-Palace of the Raja of Bhinga, Benares.] [Sidenote: 11.
-The Same—another view.] Benares extends for four miles along the
-northern bank of the Ganges. This bank is here higher than the southern,
-and descends to the river edge with a steep brink. Down this brink are
-many flights of steps, known as “ghats,” which we may translate by the
-word “approaches.” We have already heard the word “ghat” applied to the
-steep mountain-high brinks of the southern plateau of India, where the
-upper ground breaks away to the shore of the Arabian Sea on the one
-hand, and to the low-lying plain of the Carnatic on the other. The city
-of Benares is situated on the plateau top above the ghats, and for four
-miles the river front is crowned with palaces and temples, built of a
-yellow sandstone. The opposite, the southern, shore lies low and without
-buildings. Here is a view looking southward across the river from the
-brink edge; it shows the low and non-sacred southern shore. Here are two
-views of the brink itself, faced and crowned with buildings of yellow
-sandstone. There follow two views of the palace of the Raja of Bhinga,
-and in both we see the ghat steps descending to the water’s edge.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 12.
-Dasashwamedh Ghat, Benares.] [Sidenote: 13.
-Manikarnika Ghat, Benares.] The population of Benares numbers some two
-hundred thousand, of whom the great majority are of the Hindu faith, and
-no fewer than thirty thousand are Brahmans, the priestly caste. It is
-said that more than a million pilgrims visit the city every year. In the
-early morning they descend the ghats to bathe in the river and to drink
-the sacred water. Here we have the scene at one of these ghats, with the
-conical towers of a temple, and the great sun umbrellas. Another scene
-of a similar character follows at another ghat, the most sacred in
-Benares.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 14.
-Burning Ghat, Benares.] [Sidenote: 15.
-Another Burning Ghat, Benares.] Some of the ghats are used for the
-burning of dead bodies. Wrapped in a white shroud, the corpse is dipped
-into the river, then laid on a pile of faggots, and other faggots are
-built around, and a light is set to the pile. The ashes are thrown into
-the river. These rites are performed by the nearest relatives. We have
-here the body of a woman of the poorer classes nearly consumed, and the
-few relatives looking on. Here preparations are in progress for another
-cremation. The corpse may be seen, with its feet in the water, resting
-aslant at the foot of the ghat. The bodies of the higher castes are
-burnt at the Raja Ghat on costly fires of sandal-wood. At night, from
-the water, the city, with its thousands of lights and the tall flames at
-the Burning Ghats, is deeply impressive.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 16.
-The Observatory, Benares.] [Sidenote: 17.
-The Samrat Yantra in the Observatory.] [Sidenote: 18.
-Eclipse Festival, Benares.] Perhaps the most interesting of all the
-buildings at Benares is the Observatory, a lofty structure placed on the
-river brink and commanding a wide view. Within are instruments of stone
-on a great scale for the observation of the movements of the heavenly
-bodies. This is the Samrat Yantra, used for observing the declination
-and right ascension of the stars. Astronomy plays no inconsiderable part
-in the rites of Benares. The pilgrimages are thronged at the time of
-eclipse of the sun, and there are certain ghats of special resort during
-the occurrence of eclipses.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 19.
-Roof of Golden Temple, Benares.] [Sidenote: 20 Vishnagi Temple,
-Benares.] [Sidenote: 21.
-Aurangzeb’s Mosque, Benares.] [Sidenote: 22.
-The Same—another view.] Set a little back from the river front in a
-small square is the chief temple of the Hindus. Europeans are not
-permitted to go within, but only to peep through a hole in the wall, and
-also from an upper balcony of a neighbouring house to look down upon the
-gilded roof. Beside this temple there is another, half of which is in
-ruin, and the remainder has been converted to the purpose of a Musulman
-mosque. The old part is of yellow-grey sandstone, tawny with age, but
-the mosque has been white-washed and shines brightly in the sunlight. We
-have here a view of this temple-mosque, and then there follow two views,
-showing the tall minarets of Aurangzeb’s Mosque, built on the site of
-another Hindu temple which he destroyed. For two centuries until the
-advent of British power the rulers of this Hindu land were of the
-Musulman faith, conquerors from the northwest. The Musulmans destroyed
-many of the ancient Hindu temples of Benares, so that most of the
-buildings of the city are comparatively modern.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 23.
-A Fakir, Benares.] [Sidenote: 24.
-Snake Charmers, Benares.] As in a Christian country, such a resort of
-pilgrims brings together men from far distant and different lands, and
-we have at Benares an epitome of all Hindu India. In the narrow
-deep-shaded streets, and the sordid and tawdry purlieus of the temples
-may be seen many a typical scene of Eastern life. Here, for instance,
-close to Aurangzeb’s Mosque, is a Fakir or religious enthusiast, to whom
-the alms of the faithful are due. He rests on this bed of spikes day and
-night. Such Fakirs get much alms, which they are supposed by the envious
-to bury underground. We have another characteristic scene here, two
-snake charmers on one of the ghats, with a fine assortment of
-reptiles—cobra, python, and other snakes, as well as scorpions. There is
-always a ready crowd for them, as for jugglers of curious skill.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 25.
-Bullock Cart, Benares.] [Sidenote: 26.
-A Camel, Benares.] [Sidenote: 27.
-A Bridegroom, Benares.] The traffic in the streets is of the most
-various kind. Here is an ox waggon, with cumbrous wooden wheels, laden
-with rough stone for road making, and here a tall camel bringing in
-tobacco from some outlying village. This is a bridegroom of the highest,
-the Brahman caste, mounted on a white horse, and clothed in a golden
-dress shot with pink. He is probably on his way to pay a ceremonial
-call.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 28.
-Prince of Wales Hospital, Benares.] [Sidenote: 29.
-Queen’s College, Benares.] [Sidenote: 30.
-Central Hindu College, Benares.] Further inland, near the railway
-station, is grouped the European quarter, with a Christian church, the
-post office, the regimental barracks of the cantonment, missionary
-colleges, villas of officials, and a few fine public buildings of recent
-date. Here for instance, with a bullock cart passing it, and another
-vehicle behind with a sun-hood, is the Prince of Wales Hospital. Here is
-Queen’s College, where a modern education is given to some five hundred
-students, and here finally is the Central Hindu College, opened in 1899,
-“for the education of Hindu youth in their ancestral faith and in true
-loyalty and patriotism.” This college contains about two hundred and
-fifty students.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 31.
-Army Factory, Cawnpore—Native Cutters at work.] We now leave Benares,
-noticing the great railway bridge over the Ganges, and travel by rail
-over the grey monotony of the plains, varied by patches of cultivation,
-herds of long-eared goats, long-legged pigs, large black vultures, and
-here and there a string of camels. So we come to Cawnpore, the
-Manchester of India. Cawnpore is the chief inland manufacturing city of
-India, a great contrast in all its ways with Benares. Western capital,
-Western ideas, and Western organisation are at work on a large scale.
-There are mills and factories for the spinning and weaving of wool,
-mostly Indian wool, but some Australian brought by way of Calcutta. One
-of these mills seen by our artist had on hand at the time of his visit
-an order for eleven thousand coats, and had just finished thirty-three
-thousand for the police of the great native state of Hyderabad. This is
-the mill in question. The cutters are shearing coats from a great piece
-of khaki, on which the patterns to be cut have been chalked. Both the
-spinning of the yarn and the weaving of khaki cloth have been
-accomplished by native labour and British machinery at Cawnpore. Khaki
-signifies the colour of khak, or dust.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 32.
-The Same—the Raw Hide Shed.] [Sidenote: 33.
-The Same—unloading Bark.] [Sidenote: 34.
-The Same—the Boot Shop.] [Sidenote: 35.
-Well in Messrs. Cooper Allen’s Model Village, Cawnpore.] [Sidenote: 36.
-Native Potters.] [Sidenote: 37.
-The Same.] Here is a leather factory for making Government boots and
-army equipment. This view shows the raw hides, mostly buffalo, gathered
-by rail from all parts of India. The hides on the weighing machine have
-been dried. This is bark being unloaded from the train for use in the
-tannery. Then we see the boot shop itself, thronged with workmen. These
-workmen are mostly Musulmans. As will be seen, the boots are hand-sewn.
-One large firm, employing daily some three thousand five hundred hands,
-has built a model village, of which we have here the well, the central
-feature of every Indian village, whether of the new and garden type, or
-of the old and traditional. What a contrast must all this be to the
-inhabitants of the country districts, where village tradesmen still
-follow their traditional crafts! Here, for example, are two views in a
-pottery near Benares. The potters turn the wheel with their feet. Most
-Hindu workmen use their feet a good deal, and of course the typical
-squatting attitude makes it easier for them to do so.
-
-
-Consider the revolution in all the social life of India, which is
-involved in the steady displacement of these village-made wares by the
-cheaper machine-made products of Cawnpore and other factory centres.
-There is a change beginning throughout the length and breadth of this
-vast land, not wholly unlike that which took place in Britain under the
-name of the Industrial Revolution a century and a half ago. As higher
-and more skilled industries are introduced, it seems likely ultimately
-to result in a migration of workers from the villages to the cities, in
-the growth of the size of the cities, and in the greater monotony of
-life in the rustic villages. No doubt there will be some inevitable
-suffering, especially on the part of those workers who cannot adapt
-themselves to the new conditions. In the main, however, the factory
-operatives have thus far been peasant proprietors who forsake their
-villages only for a time.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 38.
-The Rumi Gate, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 39.
-The Same—from within.] [Sidenote: 40.
-The Imambara, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 41.
-The Same—the Great Hall.] Lucknow is a city of modern temples and
-palaces, many of them stucco buildings of debased architecture, which
-appear beautiful only by moonlight and when artificially illuminated. We
-have here the Rumi Gateway, and here the same gateway from within. Then
-we have the Imambara, built under Asaf-ud-daulah, who also built the
-Residency, as a relief work in a great famine in 1784. The most striking
-feature is the successful construction of an enormous roof of coarse
-concrete without ribs, beams, pillars, or visible support of any kind,
-except that from the four surrounding walls. Here is the great hall,
-beneath this roof. It is about a hundred and sixty feet long, fifty feet
-wide, and some fifty feet high. On the floor is the tomb of
-Asaf-ud-daulah, a slab of plain masonry surrounded by silver, and
-covered with a canopy. The tomb is not in line with the sides of the
-hall, but is a little askew in order that it be oriented in accordance
-with the direction of Mecca. Near by can be seen a huge tazia, which is
-carried through the streets on the Musulman anniversary of the Moharam.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 42.
-In the Chauk Bazaar, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 43.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 44.
-A Musulman Woman in a Burka.] [Sidenote: 45.
-The Jama Masjid, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 46.
-The Husainabad Imambara, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 47.
-Karbala of Diana-ud-daula, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 48.
-The Kasmain, Lucknow.] Next we have two views in the Bazaar of Lucknow,
-which forms one of the six wards of the city. In the bazaar are to be
-found jewellers and silversmiths, together with brassworkers and
-woodcarvers. Then we come to a very characteristic Indian scene, a
-Musulman woman wearing a burka, that is to say, a veil with eye-slits.
-All Musulman women of a higher class are veiled when they leave the
-privacy of their houses, in accordance with the general feeling of
-Islam, alike in Europe, Africa, and Asia. Here we see the Jama Masjid, a
-three-domed mosque, with decorations painted in blue and purple upon its
-walls. Within it is a curious ledge used by the Shiahs, one of the two
-great sects of the Musulmans, for resting their foreheads at prayer
-time. From the platform of this mosque, we have a view of one of the
-largest Muhammadan buildings of the city, the Husainabad Imambara, built
-in 1837, by Muhammad Ali Shah, as a burial place for himself and his
-mother. It is almost entirely of painted stucco. Beyond its tallest
-minaret can be seen in the distance the red brick Clock-Tower of the
-city. Here we see the Karbala or burying place of Diana-ud-daula, of red
-sandstone, with a gilded cupola, and close by is the Kasmain, whose
-architecture is copied from that of a sacred place in Bagdad.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 49.
-The Chhattar Manzil, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 50.
-Women planting Tobacco Plants, Lucknow.] Next we see the Chhattar
-Manzil, once the Palace of the Kings of Oudh, now transformed into the
-United Service Club. Finally, in contrast, is a scene near the
-Residency, showing women planting out young tobacco plants, with an
-irrigation well in the background. Notice the oxen pulling at the rope
-with a skin attached, which draws up the water.
-
-
-Already the busy hive of industry at Cawnpore plays no mean part in the
-economy of the Indian Empire, but for British ears Cawnpore and Lucknow
-have a historical and deeper interest. These two cities were the focus
-of those events in the tragic year 1857, which we speak of as the Indian
-Mutiny. At that time British India was still ruled by the East India
-Company, an Association founded at the close of Queen Elizabeth’s reign.
-The British East India Company had at first purely mercantile aims, but,
-as we have already heard in these lectures, was soon involved in native
-intrigues and wars owing to the rivalry of the competing French Company.
-Robert Clive went out to India as a writer or clerk in the employ of
-“John Company,” as it was called, but he exchanged the pen for the
-sword, and by his defence of Arcot brought about the defeat of the
-French party in the Carnatic, and the supremacy of the British Company
-in that state. So he established the Madras Province around Fort Saint
-George on the southeastern coast. The great Colonel Clive, who
-recaptured Calcutta and won the Province of Bengal by the decisive
-victory at Plassey, was the same soldier grown a little older in the
-service of the same great Company.
-
-By successive stages in the next two or three generations the East India
-Company was deprived of its trading monopolies. At the time of the
-Mutiny it was in fact merely the Government of India, and was controlled
-even in this function by the British Government. The Company maintained
-a large army of sepoys or native soldiers, officered by Europeans, and
-also a small force that was wholly British. In the years immediately
-preceding the Mutiny, great changes had been made in India. In one way
-or another several native governments had been overthrown, and among
-these was the Kingdom of Oudh, whose capital was at Lucknow, which was
-annexed because of its misrule. There was hence much unrest among some
-of the Indian peoples, and the spirit of discontent spread to the native
-army of Bengal, mostly recruited from Oudh. Then an unfortunate incident
-occurred. A new form of cartridge was supplied to the troops, the end of
-which had to be bitten off before the old fashioned gun of those times
-could be loaded. Rumour got about that beef grease or pigs’ fat had been
-employed in the manufacture of these cartridges. Now the Hindus regard
-oxen as sacred, and the Musulmans look on the pig as unclean. The Hindus
-use oxen as draught animals for their ploughs and their carts, but to
-kill them or to eat their flesh is sinful. So it was that the agitators
-were able to play on the superstitions and prejudices of the ignorant
-soldiers. The mutinous troops murdered many of their white officers, and
-gradually gathered into three armies, which attacked the small loyal
-native forces and the white men and women who had collected at Delhi,
-Cawnpore, and Lucknow. Of the fall of Delhi and its re-capture by the
-British we will speak later when we come to describe in the seventh
-lecture the northern part of India. Assistance came to that place, not
-from Calcutta and the sea, but from the great newly acquired Province of
-the Punjab, which remained loyal. Cawnpore and Lucknow lay, however, far
-to the southeast of Delhi, and were inaccessible from that direction.
-Sir Henry Lawrence was in command at Lucknow, and General Wheeler at
-Cawnpore. In each case the native city was abandoned, and the small
-loyal native force and white refugees were gathered into an area more
-possible of defence. General Havelock led the first army of relief from
-Calcutta and Allahabad towards Cawnpore, but before he arrived, the
-little garrison, trusting to treacherous promises, had surrendered. They
-marched down to the river to take boat for Allahabad, and there most of
-them were slain—men, women, and children. A few were imprisoned at
-Cawnpore and were massacred a fortnight later.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 51.
-Massacre Ghat, Cawnpore.] [Sidenote: 52.
-The Same—another View.] We have here the ghat, now known as Massacre
-Ghat, by which the English went down to the fatal shore, and here
-another and wider view of the same scene. The road that leads down to
-the ghat is shaded by some fine trees, behind which were hidden on the
-27th June, 1857, the mutineers who carried out the massacre. In the
-distance can be seen the red brick piers of the Oudh and Rohilkund
-Railway bridge, built of course since the Mutiny.
-
-Retribution soon came to the mutineers. General Havelock marched from
-Allahabad with some two thousand men, and in a fierce battle defeated
-the rebels under Nana Sahib, and entered Cawnpore. He then tried to
-carry relief across the forty miles of plain northeastward to Lucknow.
-Twice he failed, and was forced back, but at last he effected his entry
-to that city, with a force so weak, however, that it was impossible to
-keep open his communications, and the reinforced garrison at Lucknow was
-subjected to a renewal of the siege. At last Sir Colin Campbell,
-afterwards Lord Clyde, arrived with an army sent out from Britain. We
-must remember that in those days there was no Suez Canal, and
-communication with India was round the Cape of Good Hope. Fortunately an
-expedition was on its way to China when the Mutiny broke out, and this
-force was diverted to Calcutta, and supplied the first relief, which was
-led, as we have seen, by General Havelock.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 53.
-The Residency, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 54.
-The Tower of the Residency.] [Sidenote: 55.
-The Baillie Gate, Lucknow.] [Sidenote: 56.
-The Ammunition Mosque in the Residency.] [Sidenote: 57.
-The Monument outside the Residency.] The defence at Lucknow centered in
-the Residency, the official home that is to say of the British Resident
-at the court of the recently dethroned King of Oudh. The Residency is
-now in ruins, as we see in the three slides which follow. Here is a view
-taken from the direction of the Baillie Gate, and here is the Tower.
-Here is the Baillie Gate itself, the scene of the most furious attacks
-on the British position. The old man whom we note with his hat off and a
-medal on his breast is the guardian of the place, a veteran of the
-Mutiny, who as a boy took part in the defence of Lucknow. These Mutiny
-veterans have now become but a very small band. Here in the Residency is
-another ruin, the mosque in which the ammunition was kept during the
-siege, and here is the Monument to the loyal native soldiers. It bears
-the following inscription:—“To the memory of the native officers and
-sepoys who died near this spot nobly performing their duty.” This
-monument was erected in 1875 by Lord Northbrook, Viceroy and
-Governor-General of India, and serves to remind us that the Indians who
-fell in defence of our flag outnumbered the British. The Tower of the
-Residency can be seen in the background.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 58.
-All Souls Memorial Church, Cawnpore.] [Sidenote: 59.
-The Well Memorial, Cawnpore.] At Cawnpore, also, there are sad memorials
-of massacre and defeat, not of ultimate victory as at Lucknow. We have
-here All Souls Memorial church, containing monuments to those who fell
-near by. The low evergreen hedge seen in the picture marks the line of
-General Wheeler’s unfortunately chosen entrenchments. Here, at the east
-end of the city, in the beautiful Memorial Gardens, over the well into
-which the dead bodies were cast after the second massacre, is a figure
-of the Angel of the Resurrection, sculptured by Marochetti in white
-marble. In each hand is a palm, the emblem of peace. Around the circle
-of the well is the following inscription:—
-
- “Sacred to the perpetual memory of the great company of
- Christian people, chiefly women and children, who near this spot
- were cruelly murdered by the followers of the rebel Nana Dhundu
- Pant of Bithur, and cast, the dying with the dead, into the well
- below, on the 15th day of July, 1857.”
-
-
-[Sidenote: 60.
-The Queen’s Statue, Cawnpore.] Finally, we look at the bronze monument
-of the Queen-Empress Victoria, whose direct government displaced that of
-the East India Company after the quelling of the Mutiny in 1858. Hindu
-gardeners are at work in the foreground. No Briton can visit Lucknow and
-Cawnpore without being moved. We may well be proud of the heroic deeds
-of those of our race who in 1857 suffered and fought and died to save
-the British Raj in India.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE V.
-
-
- ---
-
- =BOMBAY.=
-
- ---
-
- THE MARATHAS.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of Indian Railway System.] Two new facts have of recent years
-altered all the relations of India with the outer world, and have
-vitally changed the conditions of internal government as compared with
-those prevailing at the time of the Mutiny. The first of these facts was
-the opening of the Suez Canal, and the second was the construction, and
-as regards main lines the virtual completion of the Indian Railway
-System. Formerly shipping came round the Cape of Good Hope, and it was
-as easy to steer a course for Calcutta as for Bombay. To-day only bulky
-cargo is taken from Suez and Aden round the southern point of India
-through the Bay of Bengal to Calcutta. The fast mail boats run to
-Bombay, and thence the railways diverge northward, northeastward, and
-southeastward to all the frontiers of the Empire. Only the Burmese
-railways remain for the present a detached system. But in regard to
-tonnage of traffic Calcutta is still the first port of India, for the
-country which lies in rear of it in Bengal and the United Provinces
-contains a very large population.
-
-From Bombay inland runs the Great Indian Peninsula Railway, or as it is
-known everywhere in India, the G.I.P. This line branches a short
-distance from the coast, striking on the one hand southeastward in the
-direction of Madras, and on the other hand northeastward in the
-direction of Allahabad. A second great railway system, the East Indian,
-begins at Howrah on the shore of the Hooghly opposite to Calcutta, and
-thence crossing the low Rajmahal spur of the central hills descends to
-the bank of the Ganges at Patna, from which point it follows the river
-to Allahabad, and there branches, one line continuing northwestward to
-Delhi and beyond, the other striking southwestward through the hills to
-Jubbulpore, where it meets the northeastward branch of the G.I.P. Each
-week, four hours after the arrival of the mail steamer at Bombay, three
-express trains leave the Victoria Station of that city. One of them is
-bound southeastward for Madras. The second runs northeastward over the
-G.I.P. and East Indian lines, by way of Jubbulpore and Allahabad, to the
-Howrah Station at Calcutta. The third also runs northeastward by the
-G.I.P. line, but diverges northward from the Calcutta route to Agra and
-Delhi. When the Government of India is at Simla, the last mentioned
-train continues northward beyond Delhi to the foot of the mountains. The
-time taken to Madras is 26 hours, to Calcutta 36 hours, and to Delhi 27
-hours.
-
-Access to the great plains at the foot of the Himalayas was formerly by
-the navigation of the Ganges and of its tributaries. Then the Grand
-Trunk road was constructed from Calcutta northwestward through the
-Gangetic plain to the northwest of India. It was by this road that
-relief was brought during the Mutiny to the besieged garrisons of
-Cawnpore and Lucknow. Finally, the East Indian Railway was built from
-Bengal to the Punjab through the whole length of the densely peopled
-belt which is enriched by the monsoon rains of the Himalayas.
-
-Recently a more direct line from Bombay to Calcutta, which does not pass
-through Allahabad, has been constructed through Nagpur, the capital of
-the Central Provinces of India. This runs, however, through a hilly
-country, much forested and relatively thinly peopled. There are now two
-daily mails between Calcutta and Bombay, the one running via Nagpur and
-the other _viâ_ Allahabad.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Indian Railway Station.] We have here an Indian train standing at a
-platform. Note the screens constructed to give shade in the heat of the
-day.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 3.
-Bhor Ghat Reversing Station.] [Sidenote: 4.
-The Same.] The two branches of the Great Indian Peninsula Railway
-approach one another at an angle from Allahabad and the northeast and
-from Madras and the southeast. They descend the steep mountain face
-which edges the Deccan plateau by two passes, the Bhor Ghat and the Thal
-Ghat. The lines are constructed downward, with remarkable skill of
-engineering, by loops, and in places by blind ends on which the trains
-are reversed. Here are two views of the Bhor Ghat Reversing Station, the
-first taken from below, and the second from above. The Junction of the
-two lines is in the narrow coastal plain at the foot of the descent.
-Thence the rails are carried by a bridge over a sea strait into Sashti
-Island, and by a second bridge over a second strait into Bombay Island,
-and so to the great Victoria Terminus in the midst of the city.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 5.
-Map of Bombay District.] The island of Bombay is about twelve miles long
-from north to south. The harbour, set with hilly islets, lies between
-Bombay and the mainland, the entry being from the south round the long
-Colaba Point. Westward of Colaba is Back Bay, formed by the Malabar
-Point, on whose end, extended as it were to meet Europe, is the
-residence of the Governor of the great Province of Bombay.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 6.
-Plan of Bombay City.] [Sidenote: 7.
-Bombay, from top of Rajabaie Tower, looking South.] [Sidenote: 8.
-The Same, looking Southeast.] [Sidenote: 9.
-The Same, looking Northeast.] [Sidenote: 10.
-The Same, looking Northwest.] [Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 1.] The most
-conspicuous feature of the now magnificent city is a range of public
-buildings, running north and south about mid-way between the harbour and
-Back Bay. East of these buildings is the oldest quarter of the city,
-known as the Fort. Westward, on the shore of Back Bay, is a broad
-expanse of garden. The native town lies to the north, and beyond it is
-Byculla, where are the mills and factories, and to the east of Byculla
-on the harbour front is the dockyard of the Peninsular and Oriental
-Steam Navigation Company. How fine a city is Bombay may be realised from
-the top of the great tower of the University, some two hundred and fifty
-feet high, the most conspicuous building in the place. It is the central
-feature of the range of public buildings just referred to. We have here
-in succession from south and southeast to northeast and northwest, four
-views from the top of this tower. The first is to the south, and shows
-the Union Jack flying from the Secretariat of the Government of Bombay,
-and the entry to the harbour beyond. The edge of the garden belt towards
-Back Bay is seen along the right hand edge of the view. In the
-southeastward view we have the shipping and the islands of the harbour,
-and the Government Dockyard with its long jetty. Notice the island fort
-guarding the channel. In the northeastward view we look towards the
-native city, and see the factories smoking in the distance. It will be
-seen that there are practically no chimneys on the nearer buildings, and
-no smoke in the air. Finally from our tower top we turn northwestward,
-and look across the head of Back Bay towards Malabar Point. The building
-on the shore of the Bay is the office of the Bombay and Baroda Railway,
-which runs northward along the coast into a densely peopled lowland
-round the head of the Gulf of Cambay. Away in the distance on that
-Malabar Promontory, but not visible in this view, are the Towers of
-Silence, where the Parsis dispose of their dead.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 11.
-Group of Parsis.] [Sidenote: 12.
-Parsi Tower of Silence.] The Parsis (_i.e._ Persians) are a community,
-chiefly of merchants, who came to Bombay in the Middle Ages, flying from
-Persia when the Musulmans conquered that land. They hold the ancient
-faith of Persia, and are commonly described as Fire Worshippers. They
-regard the elements fire, water, and earth as sacred, and therefore
-refuse to pollute them with the decay of dead bodies. They build round
-towers, known as Towers of Silence, and these they place in large
-grounds equivalent to our cemeteries. Each tower is hollow and exposed
-to the sky within. There on stone ledges the dead bodies are laid, and
-the vultures pick the flesh from the bones. The ash of the bones is
-washed by the rain into a central pit at the bottom of the hollow tower,
-where it slowly accumulates, so that, in accordance with one of the
-tenets of their faith, the Parsis, rich and poor, meet in death. The
-Parsis of Bombay are a wealthy and enterprising community, who do no
-small part of the commerce of the city. One of their number recently sat
-in the House of Commons at Westminster as the representative of a London
-constituency. They have no caste prejudices like the Hindus, and no
-seclusion of women like the Musulmans, so that their ways of life are
-nearer to those of Europeans.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 13.
-The Rajabaie Tower, Bombay University.] [Sidenote: 14.
-The Same, more distant view.] [Sidenote: 15.
-P. & O. Offices, Bombay.] [Sidenote: 16.
-Carmac Bund, Bombay.] [Sidenote: 17.
-Victoria Terminus, G.I.P., Bombay.] [Sidenote: 18.
-The Same: another view.] [Sidenote: 19.
-Municipal Buildings, Bombay.] [Sidenote: 20.
-Esplanade Road, Bombay.] [Sidenote: 21.
-Fountain in Esplanade Road, Bombay.] [Sidenote: 22.
-Statue of Queen Victoria.] Now let us walk through the city, and realise
-its grandeur. Here we are down by the western façade of the University.
-The great tower rises above us from which we just now obtained our
-views. That tower is called the Rajabaie Tower, in memory of the mother
-of the founder of the building. This is a rather more distant picture of
-the same building. We have next the offices of the P. and O. Company,
-and then a wharfside with steamers about to start for Goa, the old
-Portuguese capital midway along the west coast of India southward of
-Bombay. Here we have the great Victoria Terminus of the G.I.P. Railway,
-with a central dome and an elaborately carved façade. Bombay claims that
-it is the finest railway station in the world. This is another view of
-the same building, with bullocks passing in front of it. Here are the
-Municipal Buildings with another fine dome. They are a combination of
-gothic with oriental architecture, and were opened about fifteen years
-ago. Notice the electric tramway wires above. Then we see another fine
-street, the Esplanade Road. The National Bank is to the left, and
-further along is the Bombay Club. Here is a fountain in the Esplanade
-Road, with a bullock passing in front of it, and here is the Statue of
-the Queen-Empress Victoria, unveiled in 1872. On the canopy are the rose
-of England and the lotus of India.
-
-Bombay has a population only a little smaller than that of Calcutta,
-and, like Calcutta and Madras, it is a new city, as time goes in the
-Immemorial East. The island on which it stands was presented to King
-Charles II. as part of the dower of his Portuguese Queen, and in order
-to enable the British the better to co-operate with the Portuguese in
-resisting the aggressions and encroachments of the Dutch. When handed
-over by the Portuguese, there was but a small settlement on the island.
-In 1668, however, Bombay was ceded to the East India Company, and the
-Company transferred thither the centre of its trade on the west coast of
-India, which had up to that time been at Surat, a hundred miles north of
-Bombay. Gradually the commerce of the port increased, although for a
-long time it was far outdistanced by Calcutta, whose great riverway
-extends, as we have seen, through densely peopled plains for a thousand
-miles inland. Eastward of Bombay, on the other hand, is the mountain
-face of the Western Ghats, barring easy access to the interior. The
-greatness of Bombay came only with the opening of the Suez Canal and of
-the railway lines up the Bhor and Thal Ghats, northeastward and
-southeastward into India.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 23.
-Exterior of Caves of Elephanta.] [Sidenote: 24.
-Caves of Elephanta.] [Sidenote: 25.
-The Same, showing the Trimurti.] [Sidenote: 26.
-Villagers of Elephanta.] In Bombay Harbour there is a small island,
-about six miles from the city, which is called Elephanta. It contains
-carved rock temples whose antiquity contrasts strangely with the modern
-city close by. We have here the entry to these temple caves, and here a
-view within. This is another picture, showing a three-faced image. The
-carving is some twenty feet high, and represents Brahma the Creator,
-Siva the Destroyer, and Vishnu the Preserver. The nature of these gods
-was described in the first of these lectures. Here we have a little
-group of the villagers of Elephanta. The village has some seven hundred
-inhabitants. It is known as Elephanta because there was formerly
-conspicuous among the rock carvings of the temple a great elephant,
-which, however, decayed and fell some fifty years ago. The native name
-of the island means “the town of excavations.”
-
-
-[Sidenote: 27.
-Map of Bombay Presidency, Nizam’s Territory, and Maratha Country.]
-[Sidenote: 28.
-The Satara Hills, Maratha Country.] [Sidenote: 29.
-Native Plough, Maratha Country.] Now let us journey inland, up the
-Ghats, through their thick forests, and if it be the rainy season, past
-rushing waterfalls, until surmounting the brink top we come out on to
-the plain of the tableland, and into the relative drought of the upper
-climate. This is the Maratha country, and here we have a typical view of
-the open landscape which it presents. The hills in the distance are the
-Satara hills, extending west and east through the heart of India. Here
-is another view in this same Maratha Country. It shows a native plough
-at work, and in the background one of the table-topped mountains, which
-are studded over the surface of the generally level plateau, not unlike
-the kopjes of South Africa. These steep-sided isolated mountain blocks
-have often served as strongholds in warfare, and many of them are noted
-in connection with the Maratha wars, waged in this part of India a
-little more than a century ago under the lead of Sir Arthur Wellesley,
-afterwards the great Duke of Wellington. At the foot of the mountain may
-just be seen one of the Towers of Silence of the Parsis.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 30.
-Maratha Soldier.] [Sidenote: 31.
-Map of the Maratha Dominions at their greatest extent.] The Marathas are
-a people of Hindu religion and Marathi language, which is akin, as we
-learned in the last lecture, to the Hindi of the United Provinces. Some
-four generations ago they raided most of India from their home on this
-high plateau of the Western Deccan, and the troops of the East India
-Company had to wage three successive wars with them. Had it not been for
-the British victory, there can be little doubt that the Marathas would
-have established an Empire in India. Their homeland round the city of
-Poona now forms the main portion of the Province of Bombay, but Maratha
-princes still rule large conquered countries as feudatories of the
-King-Emperor. This map shows us the dominion of the Marathas at its
-greatest extent, near the end of the eighteenth century, when they were
-the dominant warlike race of India. Their original home was not far from
-Poona. As they spread, five principal officers of court and state took
-the place of the dynasty of the Rajas, which became decrepit. These were
-the Peshwa, the Gaikwar, Sindhia, Holkar, and the Bhonsla. These five
-great chiefs conquered far and wide through all the heart of India.
-Sindhia’s dominions extended northward to Delhi, and Bhonsla’s eastward
-to Orissa on the east coast. The Peshwa was on the plateau round Poona.
-Holkar was seated at Indore between the Peshwa and Sindhia, and the
-Gaikwar at Baroda, in the fertile lowland round the head of the gulf of
-Cambay. At times there was rivalry and war between them, but with the
-exception of the Peshwa they were united by French intrigue in the time
-of Napoleon, with the result that we had to fight between the years 1803
-and 1805 the most widespread war which we have ever fought in India. Our
-generals were Lake and Wellesley. The most brilliant victory was that of
-Assaye, in the plateau country just north of Poona. There, with three
-thousand troops, Wellesley defeated Sindhia’s army of twenty thousand
-men, organised by French officers, and captured an artillery of a
-hundred guns. Peace was made with the conquered Marathas about the time
-when Trafalgar was fought, and it was stipulated that they were for the
-future to allow no European influence in their States except the
-British. There was a subsequent Maratha war, but the great war just
-referred to was the most serious crisis through which the British rule
-in India has had to pass, perhaps not even excepting the Mutiny of 1857.
-
-The Marathas are of Hindu religion, but the caste system is not with
-them carried to the extreme that prevails among other Hindus. They
-present, in fact, the nearest approach to a national caste. As we shall
-learn presently, Sindhia, Holkar, and the Gaikwar still rule great
-territories as Feudatory Princes, but Nagpur, the Bhonsla’s capital, is
-now the chief town of the Central Provinces of British India, and Poona,
-the capital of the Peshwa, is the seat of the Bombay Government during
-part of the year.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 32.
-Political Map of Bombay Province and Central India.] In contrast with
-the last map, showing the extent of the former Maratha Dominions, we
-have here a map of the central parts of India as they are to-day, with
-the Province of Bombay ruled directly by the British Government marked
-in red, and also the Central Provinces under direct British rule from
-Nagpur, but in addition it will be seen that in blue colour there are
-two patches of territory northeastward of Bombay, which bear the
-inscription Central India, a term to be carefully distinguished from the
-Central Provinces.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 33.
-Scene near Hyderabad.] [Sidenote: 34.
-Street Scene, in Hyderabad.] [Sidenote: 35.
-The Nizam’s Palace, Hyderabad.] Central India consists of Native
-Feudatory States, which acknowledge the British suzerainty, but are
-immediately ruled by their own Maharajas, of whom the two most important
-are the Maratha princes Holkar at Indore, and Sindhia at Gwalior. There
-is another larger patch of blue, southeastward of Bombay. This is the
-State of Hyderabad, ruled under British suzerainty by the Nizam. This
-great prince is however no Maratha, but a Musulman. His people for the
-most part speak the Dravidian language Telugu, and are Hindu by
-religion. Thus we see that none of these large states, each as important
-as one of the smaller European kingdoms, has for its ruler a man of the
-same race as the people. Sindhia and Holkar are Marathas ruling Hindi
-populations; the Nizam is a Musulman ruling Telugu-speaking Hindus. The
-Gaikwar of Baroda, it may be added, who governs a small but very rich
-and populous territory, is a Maratha ruling a Gujrati population. We
-have here a typical landscape in the Nizam’s territory, and see that it
-is not very different from the Maratha landscapes. It is on the same
-open Deccan plateau. This is a scene in Hyderabad itself, showing a
-procession of elephants, and then we see the Nizam’s Palace.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 36.
-Golkonda Fort.] Next we have a view of Golkonda Fort, placed on one of
-the usual flat-topped hills, and defended on one side by a large sheet
-of water. Golkonda is in the neighbourhood of Hyderabad, the capital of
-the Nizam’s dominions. Its name has become proverbial as indicative of
-immense wealth. Formerly it was the great Indian centre of diamond
-cutting and polishing, or in other words the Amsterdam of India. The
-diamonds were not found in the immediate neighbourhood, but in the
-extreme southeastern corner of the Nizam’s territory.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 37.
-The Same, nearer view.] [Sidenote: 38.
-A Bastion at the top of Golkonda Fort.] [Sidenote: 39.
-View from Golkonda Fort, looking Northeast.] [Sidenote: 40.
-Hindu Temple, Golkonda Fort.] [Sidenote: 41.
-Musulman Mosque, Golkonda Fort.] Here is a nearer view of Golkonda Fort,
-and here a view over the plain, from the bastion at the top of the Fort,
-from which can be seen the Tombs of the Kings about half a mile away.
-These kings belonged to a great Musulman dynasty which ruled here during
-the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, until it was overthrown by
-Aurangzeb. Next we have, near the summit of the Fort, the ruins of a
-Hindu temple, and close by, shown in the following slide, the remains of
-a Muhammadan mosque. The Fort, therefore, in its ruins, records the
-essential history of the country, first the Hindu civilization, and then
-two successive Musulman conquests.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 42.
-Mahbub College, Secunderabad.] [Sidenote: 43.
-Ploughing at Agricultural School at Aurangabad.] [Sidenote: 44.
-A Queen’s Boy at the same School.] Some of these Feudatory Native States
-do not lag far behind the territories directly ruled by British
-officials. Western civilization is permeating all India under the
-British suzerainty. At Secunderabad and Aurangabad, places in the
-Nizam’s Dominions, are, for instance, Agricultural and Industrial
-Schools. Here is a group of students at the Mahbub College,
-Secunderabad, and here a view taken at the Agricultural School at
-Aurangabad, which shows some of the students ploughing. One of the
-gentlemen in the foreground is the Director of Public Instruction in the
-Nizam’s State, and by his side is the Superintendent of the School. Then
-we see an orphan student, a “Queen’s boy.” He will probably settle down
-in a year or two’s time, very likely marrying one of the “Queen’s
-girls.” With a portion of his scholarship saved up for him, he will
-purchase the necessary bullocks and plough. He came to the college from
-the Victoria Memorial Orphanage, where each child is trained in his own
-religion.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 45.
-Kinkob Loom, Secunderabad.] [Sidenote: 46.
-Carpenters at Aurangabad.] In the midst, however, of this rapid advance
-we still find the older methods. Here at Secunderabad is a Kinkob loom
-of the old pattern. Kinkob work is made of gold and silver thread. The
-boy sitting above is controlling the threads, and helps to make the
-pattern by raising or lowering them in the warp. The boy sitting below
-in the well is working the shuttles. This is a street scene in
-Aurangabad showing natives of the carpenter caste sawing timber.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 47.
-The Tomb of the Saint, Roza.] [Sidenote: 48.
-Roza Fair.] [Sidenote: 49.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 50.
-Daulatabad, from the Road to Roza.] Another aspect of life in the Deccan
-of India is shown in the next slide, where round the tomb of a saint at
-a place called Roza is gathered the camp of a fair. A saint of great
-renown among the Musulmans was buried here in the fourteenth century,
-and deposited within the shrine are some hairs alleged to be from
-Muhammad’s beard. There follow two slides showing the usual amusements
-of the fair, in the latter of which we see a merry-go-round not at all
-unlike those typical of the country fairs of England. Next we have a
-view taken on the road from Roza, and in the distance can be seen the
-hill fort of Daulatabad, built in the thirteenth century on a great
-isolated mass of granite about five hundred feet high. In this fort was
-imprisoned and died the last King of Golkonda, and it became the
-favourite summer resort of his Mogul conqueror, Aurangzeb.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 27.] The upland which fills most of the centre
-of India and bears in its midst the Nizam’s Dominions is in most parts
-of no great fertility. Over large areas it is fitted rather for the
-pasture of horses and cattle than for the plough. Agriculture is
-naturally best in the river valleys, but there is one large district
-lying on the plateau top east of Bombay, and on the hill tops about the
-Narbada valley east of Baroda, which is of a most singular fertility.
-The usually granitic and schistose rocks of the plateau have here been
-overlaid by great sheets of basaltic lava. Detached portions of these
-lava beds form the table tops of the hills in the country rendered
-famous by Wellesley’s Maratha campaigns. The lava disintegrates into a
-tenacious black soil, which does not fall into dust during the dry
-season, but cracks into great blocks, which remain moist. As the dry
-season advances these blocks shrink, and the cracks grow broader, so
-that finally it is dangerous for a horse to gallop over the plain lest
-its hoof should be caught in one of these openings of the ground.
-
-
-This remarkable earth is known as the Black Cotton Soil. The cotton
-seeds are sown after the rains, and as the young plant grows a clod of
-earth forms round its roots, which is separated from the next similar
-clod by cracks. Wheat is grown on this soil in the same manner, being
-sown after the rainy season and reaped in the beginning of the hot
-season, so that from beginning to end the crop is produced without
-exposure to rain, being drawn up by the brilliant sunshine and fed at
-the root by the moisture preserved in the heavy soil.
-
-
-Thus in the part of India which lies immediately east, northeast, and
-north of Bombay the lowlands and the uplands are alike fertile—the
-lowlands round Ahmadabad and Baroda and in the valleys of the Narbada
-and Tapti Rivers because of their alluvial soil, and the uplands round
-Poona and Indore because they are clothed with the volcanic cotton soil.
-
-
-Just within the northwestern corner of the Nizam’s territory are the
-famous rock temples of Ellora, perhaps the most magnificent of their
-kind in the world. The sculpture is of Brahman, Buddhist, and Jain
-dates, the monuments of various religions being thus as it were imposed
-upon one another.
-
-[Sidenote: 51.
-Entry to Jain Caves, Ellora.] [Sidenote: 52.
-Jain Caves, Ellora.] [Sidenote: 53.
-The Juggernath Temple, Jain Caves, Ellora.] [Sidenote: 54.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 55.
-The Kailas Caves, Ellora.] [Sidenote: 56.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 57.
-Buddhist Temple, Ellora Caves.] [Sidenote: 58.
-The Carpenter Cave, Ellora.] This is the entry to the Jain part of the
-Ellora caves, and this is the interior of one of the Jain caves, story
-above story. The niches are full of statues, many of them in perfect
-condition. Here we have two views of the magnificent Juggernath Temple.
-Next, in the dim light, we realize something of the internal structure
-of the Brahman section of the caves. Notice the two men whose height
-enables you to judge of the scale. These are among the finest of all the
-monuments of antiquity in India. Here is a view taken on the floor of
-the Buddhist Temple, with large figures of Buddha seated on a throne,
-and there follows a view in another cave showing the beautifully carved
-roof. It will be seen then that in these Ellora caves several religions
-have contributed, the Jain no less than the Buddhist and the Hindu.
-
-The Jains rose in the time of Buddha, five hundred years before Christ.
-That was a time of religious stir in India, which resulted in various
-revolts against the Brahmanical system. The Jain tenets are not unlike
-those of the Buddhists. They believe in the universal soul, and in the
-transmigration of souls, so that a man’s soul may pass into an animal.
-Their regard for animal life, for this reason so general in India, is
-carried to an extreme. The Jains were strongest in Western India, and
-they are still present there, although now in a very small minority.
-They probably total to-day not more than a million and a half, and are
-perhaps most numerous at Ahmadabad. Of their great temples at Mount Abu
-we shall hear presently.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 59.
-The Mecca Gate, Aurangabad.] [Sidenote: 60.
-The Mausoleum of Rubia-ud-Daurani.] In order to complete the range of
-the architectures of India, there follow two specimens of the Muhammadan
-buildings of the state of Hyderabad. First we see the Mecca Gate at
-Aurangabad, with the Mecca Bridge underneath it, and then we have the
-Mausoleum of Rubia-ud-Daurani, the wife of Aurangzeb. The door of the
-gateway is of brass and all the domes are of marble. The building has
-recently been restored by the Government of the Nizam, and is now
-probably second only to the Taj Mahal at Agra among the Muhammadan
-buildings of India.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 32.] Finally, we must note that a portion of
-the Bombay Presidency lies far away to the northwest, detached from the
-remainder. This is the province of Sind, for the most part a desert
-area, but containing the delta of the river Indus, which is a second
-Egypt in fertility, for there the alluvium brought down by the great
-river from the distant Himalaya mountains is deposited, and water is
-available by irrigation from the same distant source. Curiously, Sind
-resembles Egypt in its human settlements. At the head of the delta where
-the distributaries divide, and therefore at the lowest convenient
-crossing place of the river, is situated the city of Hyderabad,
-corresponding to Cairo, and on the sea front westward of the deltaic
-mouths is Karachi, corresponding to Alexandria.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 27.] Sind was conquered by Sir Charles Napier
-in 1843. The Sindi population is for the most part Musulman, and engaged
-in agriculture, but the significance of Sind has altered since it was
-first added to the directly ruled British territories. At first
-communication with the Punjab was relatively difficult, for the Indus is
-not navigated with the same ease as is the Ganges. In the days before
-railways it was therefore natural that the new province should be
-administered from Bombay by means of sea communications. To-day,
-however, with the construction of the North Western Railway from Karachi
-up the river Indus, the commercial relations of Sind have come to be
-with the Punjab, of which Karachi is now the great port, although it is
-still subordinate to Bombay for purposes of government.
-
-It is interesting and significant to observe that the coastline of all
-India is now under direct British rule, except for the little States of
-Cochin and Travancore, in the far south, near Cape Comorin, and the
-peninsula of Kathiawar and the island of Cutch, which are divided among
-a multitude of petty chieftains subordinate to the Government of Bombay.
-Thus the larger Native States, being isolated from the sea, there is
-little fear of foreign intrigue in India such as we had to contend with
-during the French wars. There are a few diminutive scraps of territory
-belonging to the French and Portuguese Governments, but these are too
-insignificant to break the general rule, and moreover they are engirt
-landward by directly ruled British territory. The largest of them is at
-Goa, on the west coast, south of Bombay, the last remnant of the great
-Portuguese dominion in the Indies.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE VI.
-
-
- ---
-
- =RAJPUTANA.=
-
- ---
-
- THE FEUDATORY STATES.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of India, Distinguishing Rajputana.] In the centre of northwestern
-India is a group of large native States known as Rajputana, of the
-greatest historical interest. These States are inhabited by ancient
-Hindu Aryan tribes, collectively known as Rajputs, which literally means
-“of princely descent.” They represent the purest and most ancient Indian
-stock, and here, almost alone of the larger native States, the Chiefs
-belong to the same race as their people. Rajputana suffered much from
-the Musulmans, but was never completely conquered by them, a fact in
-part due to the physical character of the country.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Map of Northwestern India.] Through the centre of Rajputana, diagonally
-from the southwest northeastward, there runs the range of the Aravalli
-hills for a distance of fully three hundred miles, its northern
-extremity being the Ridge at Delhi on the Jumna River. At the southern
-end of the Aravallis, but separated from the main range by a hollow, is
-the isolated Mount Abu, the highest point in Rajputana, standing up
-conspicuously above the surrounding plains to a height of some five
-thousand feet. The top is a rugged plateau measuring fourteen miles by
-four. On this little upland, are the signs both of the antiquity and
-modernity of Rajputana—on the one hand, the world-famed ruins of Jain
-temples, and on the other, round the beautiful Gem Lake, the residences
-of the Agent of the Governor-General and his staff, who maintain the
-suzerainty of the King-Emperor in Rajputana. East of the Aravalli hills,
-in the basin of the Chambal tributary of the Jumna-Ganges, is the more
-fertile part of Rajputana, with the cities of Jaipur, Ajmer, Udaipur,
-and the old fortress of Chitor. Beyond the Chambal River itself, but
-within its basin, may be seen on the map the positions of Indore and
-Gwalior, the seats of the Maratha princes Holkar and Sindhia. Indore and
-Gwalior, however, belong to the Central Indian Agency and not to
-Rajputana. West of the Aravalli hills is the great Indian Desert,
-prolonged seaward by the salt and partly tidal marsh known as the Rann
-of Cutch. In oases of this desert are some of the smaller Rajput
-capitals, notably Bikaner. Beyond the desert flows the great Indus
-river, through a dry although not wholly desert land, in the midst of
-which, from Hyderabad to the sea, is the delta of Sind, as was said in
-the last lecture, a second Egypt, fertile and thickly peopled. South of
-Mount Abu, where the rivers descend from the end of the Aravalli hills
-to the Gulf of Cambay is another fertile lowland, with the beautiful
-city of Ahmadabad in the centre of it, but this city is in British
-territory, being in the Province of Bombay, and therefore outside the
-Tributary States of Rajputana. Ajmer, beside the Aravalli hills, is in
-an island of directly ruled British territory completely surrounded by
-Feudatory Rajputana.
-
-It would be difficult to exaggerate the importance to India of the
-existence of the great Indian Desert of Rajputana. The ocean to the
-southeast and the southwest of the Peninsula was an ample protection
-against overseas invasion until the Europeans rounded the Cape of Good
-Hope. The vast length of the Himalaya, backed by the desert plateau of
-Tibet, was an equal defence on a third side. Only to the northwest does
-India lie relatively open to the incursions of the warlike peoples of
-Western and Central Asia. It is precisely in that direction, as a great
-barrier extending northeastward from the Rann of Cutch, that we find the
-Indian Desert, and in rear of the Desert the minor bulwark constituted
-by the Aravalli range. Only between the northeastern extremity of the
-desert and the foot of the Himalayas below Simla is there an easy
-gateway into India. No river traverses this gateway, which is on the
-divide between the systems of the Indus and the Jumna-Ganges. Delhi
-stands on the west bank of the Jumna at the northern extremity of the
-Aravallis, just where the invading forces from the northwest came
-through to the navigable waters of the Jumna, which flow southeastward
-through Hindustan to Bengal.
-
-Aided by such powerful natural conditions, the Rajputs have ever been
-the defenders of India. Unable to prevent the entry of invaders by the
-direct way to Delhi, they have maintained themselves on the southern
-flank of the advance, and to-day their princely families proudly trace
-their lineage back in unbroken descent from ancestors before the
-Christian era. In the gateway itself, between the desert and the
-Himalayas, beyond the limits of Rajputana, dwell another people of
-warlike disposition, the famous Sikhs. Here are still preserved as
-Feudatory States the Sikh Principalities of Patiala, Nabha, and Jhind.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 3.
-Jama Masjid, Ahmadabad.] [Sidenote: 4.
-Rani Sipri’s Tomb, Ahmadabad.] [Sidenote: 5.
-Mohafiz Khan’s Mosque, Ahmadabad.] [Sidenote: 6.
-Hathi Singh’s Temple, Ahmadabad.] Let us first visit Ahmadabad, in the
-midst of the fertile lowland at the head of the Gulf of Cambay. The
-territories of this part of the Bombay Presidency are much mixed with
-those of the Gaikwar of Baroda, so that the map of the plains round the
-two cities of Ahmadabad and Baroda almost resembles that part of
-Scotland which is labelled Ross and Cromarty. Ahmadabad was once the
-most important Mohammedan city of Western India, and contains many fine
-architectural monuments, surpassed only by those of the great Mogul
-capitals, Delhi and Agra. It is reached from Bombay by the Bombay and
-Baroda Railway along the coast northward. We have here the Jama Masjid
-or Great Mosque of the city, still one of the most beautiful in India,
-though it was damaged by an earthquake about a century ago. Then we have
-another fine building, Rani Sipri’s Tomb. There follows a view of
-Mohafiz Khan’s Mosque, whose fine minarets remind one of the Citadel at
-Cairo. Finally, just outside Ahmadabad, is the comparatively modern
-Temple of Hathi Singh, built of white marble in the Jain style, with
-many domes.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 7.
-The Lake, Mount Abu.] From Ahmadabad the Baroda Railway is continued
-northward and westward across the southern end of the Rajput Desert to
-Hyderabad, in Sind, but we will go on our journey by the narrow gauge
-railway through Rajputana to Mount Abu, which rises like an island of
-granite from amid the sandy desert. Here is the Gem Lake on the summit
-of the mountain, a most beautiful sheet of water, set with rocky islets
-and overhung with great masses of rock, with the Residency or house of
-the representative of the British Government on its shore, for Mount Abu
-is the centre from which Rajputana is controlled, as far as is
-necessary, by the advice of the Viceroy. It is, as we have already said,
-about 5,000 feet or a mile above the sea level, and the climate is
-therefore suitable for a hill station. It is used as a sanatorium for
-British troops and as a hot season resort.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 8.
-The Dilwarra Temples, Mount Abu.] [Sidenote: 9.
-The Same, nearer view.] [Sidenote: 10.
-Door of the Adinat, Mount Abu.] [Sidenote: 11.
-Sava Munda, Mount Abu.] [Sidenote: 12.
-The Same, another view.] [Sidenote: 13.
-Paras Wanath Temple, Mount Abu.] Mount Abu is famous for its Dilwarra
-temples, probably the most ancient of the Jain temples of India. We
-heard of the Jains at the close of the last lecture. This is a distant
-view of the Dilwarra temples among the palm trees. We see that the
-surface of the plateau is very rugged. Here is a nearer view of the
-temples, and here a doorway of the most ancient of them, built probably
-about the time of the Norman Conquest of England. Next we have two views
-of another temple, erected some two hundred years later. The carving of
-the small domes and vaults is most delicate, and stands almost
-unrivalled even in India, a land essentially of painstaking labour in
-small details. Finally, we have a view of yet another temple, said to
-have been built by the workmen in their spare time during the erection
-of the greater temples we have just seen. In spite of the dilapidation
-of many centuries, and of unskilled restoration in places, these ruins
-are still extremely beautiful amid the rugged scenery of the Mount. The
-British Station on Mount Abu was attacked during the Mutiny, but the
-attack was beaten off.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 14.
-Sir Pratab Singh.] [Sidenote: 15.
-Dolat Singh.] [Sidenote: 16.
-Himat Singh.] One of the most progressive of the Rajput States, and the
-oldest, is Jodhpur, whose Prime Minister was, until lately, the
-distinguished officer Sir Pratab Singh, now Maharaja of his own little
-State of Idar, in the plain at the foot of Mount Abu. We have his
-portrait here, and those of his son and grandson.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 17.
-H.H. The Maharana of Udaipur.] [Sidenote: 18.
-The Palace, Udaipur.] [Sidenote: 19.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 20.
-Udaipur, from the Jag Mandar.] [Sidenote: 21.
-Jag Mandar, Udaipur.] [Sidenote: 22.
-Jag Newas, Udaipur.] Udaipur is the capital of another of the greater
-Rajput States, Mewar, which was founded in the Roman times of European
-chronology. This is a portrait of the Maharana of Udaipur, who is the
-highest in esteem of all the Rajput princes. Udaipur is one of the most
-beautiful cities in India, with its palaces and ghats reflected in the
-clear waters of a lake. Here are two views of the palace of the
-Maharana, built of granite and marble, rising to a hundred feet above
-the surface of the lake. Here we have the city seen across the lake, and
-then there follow two views showing the temples and terraces by the
-water’s edge.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 23.
-The Ganesh Gate, Chitor.] [Sidenote: 24.
-The Tower of Victory, Chitor.] East of Udaipur city, but in the same
-State, is the rock fortress of Chitor, anciently the capital, a most
-conspicuous object, standing high and isolated above the surrounding
-country. The slopes of the hill are covered with a thick jungle, and the
-summit is crowned with ruins of palaces and temples. The road which
-leads up to the top is about a mile in length, and on it at intervals
-are seven gateways. We have here a view of one of them, the Ganesh Gate.
-This roadway was the scene of a terrible struggle in the middle of the
-16th century, when the invading Musulmans under Akbar attacked the
-Rajput stronghold. The citadel was at length taken, but the Rajputs sold
-their freedom dearly, nearly ten thousand of them falling in the battle.
-The old city of Chitor is now decayed and reduced to a mere village, but
-it still contains interesting ruins, notably the two Jain Towers of
-Victory and Fame. The Tower of Fame is the older, built in the time of
-our King Alfred. This is a view of the Tower of Victory, built in the
-early 15th century. It has nine stories. A stairway in the centre leads
-to the top. The dome has recently been restored, having been wrecked by
-lightning.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 25.
-The Durga, Ajmer.] [Sidenote: 26.
-The Same, The Tomb of Chisti.] [Sidenote: 27.
-The Arhai-Din-Ka-Jhompra, Ajmer.] [Sidenote: 28.
-The Lake, Ajmer.] [Sidenote: 29.
-The Durga Bazaar, Ajmer.] [Sidenote: 30.
-Mayo College, Ajmer.] Ajmer, now under direct British rule, is another
-ancient and beautiful spot, set in a hollow among low hills, and
-surrounded by a wall. It was the scene of many struggles between the
-Musulmans and the Rajputs, and was finally taken by Akbar in the middle
-of the 16th century. One of the principal buildings is the Durga,
-venerated both by Hindus and by Musulmans. We have here a view of the
-courtyard of the Durga. Notice to the right hand the huge metal cauldron
-set in stone. It is used for the cooking of rice given in charity, which
-is divided between poor pilgrims and the attendants at the shrine. Here
-is the Tomb of Chisti in the Durga. Next is a Muhammadan Mosque, called
-the Arhai-Din-Ka-Jhompra, which, tradition says, was built with divine
-assistance in two and a half days. Then we have a view of the lake at
-Ajmer. On the bank are a number of marble pavilions. This is one of
-them. Close by, on a small hill overlooking the lake, is the house of
-the Chief Commissioner of Ajmer, and Agent to the Governor-General for
-Rajputana. Here we have a street in Ajmer. And here is the Mayo College,
-for the education of the sons of the Rajput chiefs, an institution of
-the greatest importance, as it were the loyal Eton of India, for the
-Rajput Maharajas have the deepest instinct of personal loyalty to the
-Suzerain Lord, a result at once of their feudal pride, their religion,
-and their intelligence as rulers. The College was opened in 1875, and
-contains about a hundred students. The main building, seen in this view,
-is of white marble.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 31.
-Chand Pol Gate, Jaipur.] [Sidenote: 32.
-A Street in Jaipur.] [Sidenote: 33.
-Chand Pol Bazaar, Jaipur.] [Sidenote: 34.
-A Wool Cart, Jaipur.] Next we visit Jaipur, a walled city surrounded by
-rocky hills crowned with forts, the capital and residence of the
-Maharaja of Jaipur State, the best governed of all the Rajput States.
-This is one of the entrance gates, and through the archway may be seen
-the crenellated wall of the city, with thatched huts built against it.
-Here is a street within the city, with a fort-crowned rock visible at
-the end of it, and here is the Bazaar. Jaipur has a modern aspect, for
-it is a busy and prosperous commercial centre. Here is a wool cart in
-the city. The streets are broad—perhaps the broadest in the world—and
-cross one another at right angles, and at night are well lighted with
-gas.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 35.
-The Samrat Yantra, Jaipur Observatory.] One of the most interesting of
-the old Indian observatories, with great stone instruments, even larger
-than those of Benares, is in this city. It was constructed at the
-beginning of the 18th century, and has recently been restored by the
-progressive Maharaja. This is the great Samrat Yantra, or sundial, the
-largest in the world. The gnomon is 75 feet in height. Notice how small
-in comparison is the keeper of the observatory, who may be seen standing
-just outside the line of the shadow on the circumference of the dial. In
-the distance, above some dwelling houses, is visible the clock-tower of
-the Maharaja’s palace, the time of which is regulated by this sundial.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 36.
-The Palace Gardens, Jaipur—Crocodiles.] [Sidenote: 37.
-The Same, Tomb of a pet dog.] [Sidenote: 38.
-Flamingoes at Jaipur.] [Sidenote: 39.
-Sita Ranji Temple, Jaipur.] The palace stands amid beautiful gardens. We
-have here a tank in these gardens showing the Maharaja’s crocodiles, and
-here is the tomb among the trees of one of the late Maharaja’s pet dogs.
-Outside the city walls are fine public gardens, covering some forty
-acres, containing an aviary and menagerie. Here is a group of
-flamingoes, caught in the neighbourhood. Finally, we have one of the
-temples in the city, built of red sandstone and finely carved.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 40.
-The Lake and Palace, Amber.] [Sidenote: 41.
-Shish Mahal, Amber.] [Sidenote: 42.
-The Palace, Alwar.] [Sidenote: 43.
-The Same from above.] A few miles from Jaipur is Amber, the ancient
-capital of Jaipur State, but now abandoned and in ruins. Here we have a
-view of the old Palace and the Lake, and here one of the many fine
-buildings, the Shish Mahal. Next we see the Palace at Alwar, a
-comparatively modern city, the present capital of the State of Alwar,
-and then we have a view over the palace looking down from the hill
-above.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 44.
-City Gate, Bikaner.] [Sidenote: 45.
-Jain Temple, Bhandashar, Bikaner.] [Sidenote: 46.
-Bikaner from the Jain Temple.] [Sidenote: 47.
-Street in Bikaner.] [Sidenote: 48.
-Grain Sellers, Bikaner.] [Sidenote: 49.
-Bikaner Fort.] Now we visit Bikaner, in an oasis of the northwestern
-desert. This is the city gate, with a level railway crossing in front.
-Notice the camel waiting for the passing of the train, and the
-water-carriers. Here of course water is a valuable commodity. The
-district of which Bikaner is the centre suffers frequently from famine
-owing to drought. Then we have a Jain temple crowning a rocky mound, and
-from the terrace of this temple we obtain a view over the city, with its
-flat roofs and desert spaces. There follows a view in one of the narrow
-streets, showing the carved front of a house belonging to one of the
-richer Jains of the city. Finally we have a typical group of grain
-sellers in front of the Customs House, and a view of the Fort.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 50.
-H.H. The Raja of Nabha and his ministers.] [Sidenote: 51.
-H.H. The Raja of Nabha.] [Sidenote: 52.
-The Palace of the Crown Prince of Nabha.] [Sidenote: 53.
-Sirdar Fateh Singh.] [Sidenote: 54.
-Sikhs at Nabha.] [Sidenote: 55.
-An Akali at Nabha.] [Sidenote: 56.
-The Chief Justice of Nabha.] [Sidenote: 57.
-Sirdar Bisham Singh.] On our way northeastward we will next visit the
-city of Nabha, though it is the centre of a Sikh and not of a Rajput
-State. Here is the Raja of Nabha surrounded by his Council of Ministers,
-and here his portrait. Then we have in the distance the palace of the
-Crown Prince of Nabha, seen from the roof of Elgin House, the home of
-the British Resident. Next there follow a series of portraits. The first
-is of a young princeling. The second is of a group of Sikhs; in front is
-a priest, and to the right, in black, an Akali, or warrior-monk. There
-follows another slide showing one of these Akalis in ancient fighting
-costume. Then we have, by way of contrast, the very up to date Chief
-Justice of Nabha, but notice in the background sentry duty economically
-performed by a pasteboard soldier! Here is a typical Sikh face, that of
-the Vakil to the Political Agent at the British Residency.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 2.] Finally, we will cross the Chambal river
-and, leaving Rajputana, will enter Central India, and visit the two
-cities of Gwalior and Indore, the capitals of the Maratha Princes
-Sindhia and Holkar. Gwalior lies a little south of Delhi and Agra. The
-city is dominated by an isolated rock fort, flat-topped and steep-sided,
-more than three hundred feet in height. There is but a single road up,
-and along this road are six successive gates, arranged as at the fort of
-Chitor in Rajputana. Sindhia captured Gwalior rather more than a hundred
-years ago. When the Indian Mutiny broke out his people, being of Hindi
-race, of the same kin therefore as the people of Agra and Oudh, revolted
-and joined the mutineers, but Sindhia and his Maratha officers remained
-loyal and escaped to British protection.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 58.
-The Fort, Gwalior.] Gwalior was the scene of the last episodes in the
-Indian Mutiny. Driven from Delhi and from around Cawnpore and Lucknow,
-the mutineers marched in 1858 against Sindhia, who met them in battle,
-but was defeated. Then General Sir Hugh Rose followed them up in what is
-known as the Central Indian campaign, and defeated them at Gwalior. The
-fort of Gwalior itself was taken by a remarkable feat of daring. Two
-British subalterns with a blacksmith and an outpost force picked the
-locks of the first five gateways up the road entry before they were
-discovered. They stormed the last gate, one of them being killed. So
-Gwalior Fort was taken, and for a generation was garrisoned by British
-troops, but about twenty years ago it was restored to the Maharaja
-Sindhia.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 59.
-Holkar’s Palace, Indore.] Indore lies in the land of Malwa, a
-considerable distance south of Gwalior and on high ground about the
-sources of the Chambal river. The Governor-General’s Agent for Central
-India has his residence here by treaty, and close at hand is now the
-army cantonment of Mhow. At the time of the Mutiny some of Holkar’s
-infantry attacked the Residency, and as the Resident, Sir Henry Durand,
-had only twenty men to defend it, he was compelled to retreat with some
-women and children. But it was soon recovered and nothing very serious
-ensued in this part of India.
-
-The Rajputana Agency is as large as the whole British Isles, but it
-contains only about ten million people, since a great part of it is
-desert. The Central Indian Agency is about as large as England and
-Scotland without Wales. It has a population only a little smaller than
-that of Rajputana. We may measure the significance of the more important
-chiefs in these two Agencies by the fact that Sindhia rules a country
-little less, either in area or population, than the Kingdom of Scotland.
-
-The Native States of India, of which we have seen a series of examples,
-occupy about a third of the area of the whole country, and contain about
-one-fifth of the population. They represent in their present secure
-position a new phase of Anglo-Indian policy. The Indian Mutiny closed a
-period characterised by successive great annexations to the territory
-directly ruled by Britain. Since the Mutiny there has been no
-acquisition of directly ruled provinces, except in Burma. Therein the
-policy of the Empire differs markedly from that of the old East India
-Company. The King-Emperor now guarantees the privileges and separate
-modes of rule in the Feudatory States. As a result, there are no more
-loyal supporters of the British Raj than these great native chiefs, who
-in recent years have raised an army of Imperial Service Troops, to
-reinforce the Indian and British armies for the defence of the Empire
-and the maintenance of internal order.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 60.
-Political Map of India.] Let us cast our eye over the map and enumerate
-the principal divisions of India. Under direct British rule are in the
-south Madras and in the east Burma. Then in succession through the plain
-at the foot of the Himalayas are Eastern Bengal and Assam; Bengal; the
-United Provinces of Agra and Oudh; and the Punjab. In the east centre
-round Nagpur are the Central Provinces, and in the west is the
-Presidency of Bombay, with the detached territory of Sind on the lower
-Indus. On the Northwestern Frontier are British Baluchistan and the
-Northwest Frontier Province, while in the midst of Rajputana is the
-little district of Ajmer, and away in the south amid the forests of the
-Western Ghats the little district of Coorg. Ceylon, as was said in the
-first lecture, though British, is not a part of India, but a separate
-Crown Colony. All these Provinces are directly administered by the
-British Civil Service.
-
-Now consider the Feudatory States. In the far south, from Cape Comorin
-along the west coast, we have the two little countries of Travancore and
-Cochin, ruled by Hindu Maharajas. They are far removed from all the
-greater problems of Indian Government, remote homes of the caste system
-in its most stringent form, and also, curiously, of a most ancient form
-of Christianity introduced long centuries ago from Nestorian sources in
-Western Asia. Then, north of the Nilgiri hills and the hill station of
-Ootacamund, is the State of Mysore, high on the plateau, completely
-surrounded by British territory of the Provinces of Madras, Bombay, and
-Coorg. The Maharaja here is a Hindu in religion, and the people are
-chiefly Hindu. Northward again, and still on the Deccan plateau, is the
-largest and most important native State of India, ruled from Hyderabad
-by the Nizam, a Musulman, who administers a country largely of Hindu
-religion. Then we have the two great groups of States, whose relations
-with the Empire are conducted by the Agencies of Central India and
-Rajputana. The most important of the Central Indian chiefs are Holkar
-and Sindhia, Marathas in a Hindi-speaking country, though in faith
-Hindus like their subjects. In Rajputana are the Rajput States of which
-we have spoken in this lecture.
-
-It will be observed that, with the small exceptions of Travancore and
-Cochin, all the States thus far enumerated lie inland and are surrounded
-by British territory directly administered. The remaining native states
-form a fringe along the northern and northwestern borders. To the
-northeast amid the foot hills of the Himalayas are in succession, from
-east to west, Bhutan, Sikkim, and Nepal. Of these, Nepal stands outside
-the Indian Protectorate in a special relation of independent alliance
-with the British Government. In the far north is the state of Kashmir,
-whose centre is a beautiful valley, with a lake in its midst, deeply
-sunk amid the Himalayan ranges proper. A part of the foot hills on the
-one hand and a length of the Tibetan Indus on the other hand are also
-included within the territory ruled by the Maharaja of Kashmir. To the
-northwest are the Pathan and Baluchi hill tribes in relation with the
-North West Frontier Province and British Baluchistan.
-
-Such a survey as that which we have thus rapidly made gives perhaps the
-best idea of the complexity and vastness of the Indian Political System.
-The Indian Empire is in fact not a country but, as the inhabitants of
-the United States say of their own land, a sub-continent, and as regards
-everything but mere area the expression is far more true of India than
-of the United States, for in the United States a single race and a
-single religion are dominant, but in India a long history lives to this
-day in the most striking social contrasts, presenting all manner of
-problems which it will take generations to solve.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LECTURE VII.
-
-
- ---
-
- =DELHI.=
-
- ---
-
- THE MUHAMMADAN RELIGION.
-
-
- LIST OF THE MOGUL EMPERORS FROM
- HUMAYUN TO AURANGZEB.
-
- HUMAYUN 1530-1540
- 1555-1556
- AKBAR 1556-1605
- JEHANGIR 1605-1627
- SHAH JAHAN 1627-1658
- AURANGZEB 1658-1707
-
- ----------------------------
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Map of Northern India.] Once more we look at the map of Northern India.
-We realise the great mountain wall of the Himalayas, four and five miles
-high, curving through fifteen hundred miles along the northeast frontier
-of the Indian lowland. Behind the Himalayas is the Tibetan plateau,
-three miles in average elevation. Northwestward of India there is
-another plateau, but a lower one than Tibet, and the mountain ranges
-which divide it from the Indian plain are lower than the Himalayas.
-Observe the great series of streams which emerge from the Himalayas, and
-gather on the one hand into the Indus River, flowing southwestward, and
-on the other hand into the Ganges, flowing southeastward. See the
-position of the Indian desert and the Aravalli Hills, and note the exact
-spot where stands the city of Delhi.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Map of the neighborhood of Delhi.] We turn now to a map on a larger
-scale of the region round Delhi. We see the Himalaya mountains, the
-Aravalli hills, and the Indian Desert. We see the streams of the Indus
-and Ganges systems turning away from one another, and we see Simla, the
-summer capital of India, high on a spur of the Himalayas, above the
-divide between the Indus and the Ganges tributaries. Just north of Simla
-is the valley of the Sutlej, tributary to the Indus, and where the
-Sutlej issues from the mountains we note the off-take of a great system
-of irrigation canals. It is true that the lowland northwestward of Delhi
-is not quite desert. Nevertheless it has but a sparse rainfall, and the
-result of the construction of the irrigation canals derived from the
-Himalayan waters is that great colonies have been established in this
-region, and wheat is grown on thousands of square miles that were
-formerly waste. India has a great population, but with modern methods of
-water supply, and more advanced methods of cultivation, there is still
-ample room for settlement within its boundaries. We see on the map that
-there are other irrigation canals derived from the Ganges where it
-emerges from the mountains at Hardwar, and from the Jumna.
-
-Delhi is the Musulman capital of India. What Benares and Patna and Gaya
-were and are to the Brahman and Buddhist civilisations native to India,
-what Calcutta and Madras and Bombay and Karachi are to the English from
-over the seas, that are Delhi and Agra to the Musulmans entering India
-from the northwest. The Musulmans were not the first to come this way
-into India. The oldest of the sacred books of the Hindus tell of a
-people who came from the northwest and apparently founded the Hindu
-religion, accepting no doubt some of the religious beliefs of the
-earlier, the Dravidian, population. From these Aryan invaders, speaking
-Sanskrit, have been derived the languages of the peoples of Northern
-India. Southeastward, southward, and southwestward from Delhi as far as
-the centre of India, there spread the Hindi, Bengali, and Marathi
-languages, as evidence of the effective conquest made by those remote
-invaders entering through the Delhi passage between the desert and the
-mountains. So far, however, as their language was concerned, they failed
-to establish themselves in the Dravidian south. Long afterwards, but
-still some three hundred years before the Christian era, the Greeks
-under Alexander the Great traversed Persia and Turkestan and came over
-the Hindu Kush, the mountain backbone of what is now Afghanistan, down
-into the plains of the Punjab. Alexander advanced across the rivers of
-the Punjab, tributary to the Indus, apparently as far as the Sutlej, and
-then turned southward and followed the Indus to its mouth. Part of his
-troops returned through the Persian Gulf on board the fleet, and part he
-led back with great loss along the barren northern shore of the Arabian
-Sea. Alexander and the Greeks came therefore to the very threshold of
-India, and then turned aside towards the sea, leaving the desert of
-Rajputana between them and the great prize of the conqueror.
-
-In the seventh century of the Christian era there arose in Arabia the
-prophet Muhammad, who in his youth had been influenced both by Christian
-and Hebrew teaching. He preached to the Arabs that there was but one
-God, and that Muhammad was his prophet.
-
-Muhammad, “The Praised,” was born in Mecca, about the year 570. He
-belonged to one of the ruling families of the tribe of Arabs who held
-Mecca and the surrounding country, but his father died before he was
-born, and his mother when he was only six months old. From his earliest
-youth Muhammad was addicted to solitude and musing. In his wanderings he
-visited Syria, and in a Nestorian convent there learned many of the
-Hebrew and Christian ideas which he subsequently incorporated into his
-teaching. In his twenty-fifth year he married Khadija, a widow of noble
-birth and considerable wealth. This marriage placed him in a position of
-independence, for he had previously been very poor.
-
-When Muhammad was forty years old there came to him a Divine Call,
-bidding him teach his people to abandon their idols, to worship God, and
-to accept him as God’s Prophet. At first Muhammad met with the most
-bitter opposition, and in the year 622 A.D. he had to flee from Mecca to
-a city called Yathreb, which received him and made him its chief
-magistrate. Ever since that event this city has been called
-Medinat-un-Nabi, the City of the Prophet; or, shortly, Medina. The
-flight of Muhammad from Mecca is called the Hegira, and it is from this
-event that the Muhammadan calendar dates. In the year 630 A.D. Mecca was
-conquered, and shortly after this all Arabia submitted to the claims of
-the prophet.
-
-After Muhammad’s death the Arabs set forth to conquer the world and to
-convert it to Islam. They subdued Egypt and Syria and the plain of the
-Euphrates. They marched to the gates of Constantinople, and through
-Northern Africa to the Strait of Gibraltar, and beyond Gibraltar through
-Spain into France, there to suffer a great defeat at the hands of the
-Christian Franks, which saved the remainder of Christendom. All this was
-accomplished in little more than a hundred years from the Hegira.
-
-But the Musulmans did not wage war only against Christendom. Their
-armies advanced from the Euphrates up on to the Persian plateau and down
-into the lowlands of Turkestan in the heart of Asia, and over the Hindu
-Kush into Afghanistan, and then down into the plain of the River Indus.
-Already in the seventh century there had been Musulman incursions into
-India overseas, by way of Sind. In the eleventh century after Christ the
-Musulmans entered Gangetic India, and took Delhi. They founded there a
-Muhammadan realm, which presently extended through most of Northern
-India.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 3.
-The Mogul Empire at its greatest extent.] Five hundred years later a
-second Musulman invasion, more effective than the first, came into India
-by way of Delhi. The Moguls or Mongols of Central Asia had been
-converted to Islam, and in the time of our King Henry the Eighth they
-refounded the Musulman power at Delhi. For a hundred and fifty years,
-from the time of our Queen Elizabeth to that of our Queen Anne, the
-series of Mogul Emperors, from Humayun to Aurangzeb, ruled in splendid
-state practically the whole of India. This map shows the greatest spread
-of the Mogul Empire. Agra, a hundred miles down the Jumna from Delhi,
-became a subsidiary capital to Delhi, and in these two cities we have
-to-day the supreme examples of Muhammadan architectural art.
-
-The Musulman, it must be remembered, came as an alien to India. He is no
-polytheist or pantheist, but a believer in the one God, and that a
-spiritual God, so that he holds it wrong to make any graven image,
-whether of man or of animal. Islam is the name which the followers of
-the prophet gave to their religion: it means primarily submission, and
-so peace, greeting, safety, and salvation, and in its ethical sense it
-signifies striving after righteousness. Islam is in its essence pure
-Theism coupled with some definite rules of conduct. Belief in a future
-life and accountability for human action in another existence are two of
-the principal doctrines of the Islamic creed. Every Musulman is his own
-priest, and, in theory at any rate, no divisions of race or colour are
-recognised among the followers of the Prophet. Musulmans are forbidden
-to take alcohol. The gospel of Islam is the Koran—The Book—in which are
-embodied the teachings and precepts of the Arabian Prophet. The Koran
-incorporates, as we have already seen, much that was drawn both from
-Hebrew and Christian teaching.
-
-More than sixty millions of the Indian population hold the faith of
-Islam. They are scattered all over the land, usually in a minority,
-although that minority, as we have already learned, is frequently
-powerful, for it gives ruling chiefs to many districts which are
-dominantly Hindu. In two parts only of India are the Musulmans in a
-majority, namely, in the far east, beyond the mouths of the Ganges in
-the newly formed Province of Eastern Bengal and Assam, and in the Indus
-Basin from the neighbourhood of Delhi through the Punjab into Sind. For
-this reason, and also because of its physical character—lying low
-beneath the uplands of Afghanistan, and separated from the greater part
-of India by the breadth of the desert—we may think of the Indus Valley
-as being an ante-chamber to India proper. In this ante-chamber, and in
-the Delhi passage, between the desert and the mountains, for more than
-nine hundred years the Musulmans have predominated.
-
-When the decay of the Mogul Empire began in the time of our Queen Anne,
-the chief local representatives of the Imperial Rule, such as the Nizam
-of Hyderabad, and the Nawabs of Bengal and Oudh, assumed an independent
-position. It was with these new dynasties that the East India Company
-came into conflict in the days of General Clive, and thus we may regard
-the British Empire in India as having been built up from the fragments
-into which the Mogul Empire broke. In one region, however, the Western
-Deccan, the Hindus re-asserted themselves, and there was a rival bid for
-Empire, as we have already learned, on the part of the Marathas. It was
-the work of General Wellesley, afterwards Duke of Wellington, to defeat
-the Marathas. In the north also, in the Punjab, there was a
-recrudescence of the Hindu race, due to the new sect of the Sikhs, who
-set up a power with which at a later time the British Raj came into
-conflict. But this was not until after Delhi, the very seat of the Mogul
-throne, had been taken.
-
-
-[Sidenote: Repeat Map No. 2.] [Sidenote: 4.
-Simla, Viceregal Lodge—distant view.] [Sidenote: 5.
-Simla, Bazaar and Town Hall.] We are now prepared for the fact shown in
-this map, that the tract northwestward of Delhi, in the gateway between
-the desert and the mountains, is sown over with battle fields—ancient
-battlefields near Delhi, where the incoming Musulmans overthrew the
-Indian resistance, and modern battlefields near the Sutlej, where
-advancing British power inflicted defeat upon the Sikhs after severe
-contests. It is by no accident that Simla, the residence during more
-than half the year of the British Viceroy, is placed on the Himalayan
-heights above this natural seat of Empire and of struggle for Empire.
-
-In the Mutiny of 1857 the Sikhs of the Punjab, and of the still
-continuing Tributary States of Nabha and Patiala, mentioned in the last
-lecture, remained loyal to the British rule, although they had been
-conquered in the terrible battles on the Sutlej less than ten years
-before. In no small measure this was due to the extraordinary influence
-wielded over them by Sir John Lawrence, afterwards Lord Lawrence, the
-brother of that Sir Henry Lawrence who defended the Residency of
-Lucknow. As a result of the Sikh loyalty some of the British forces in
-the Punjab were free to march to the re-capture of Delhi. Thus the
-Indian Mutiny was overcome from two bases, on the one hand at Lucknow
-and Cawnpore by an army from the sea and Calcutta, and on the other hand
-at Delhi by an army advancing from the Punjab over the track beaten by
-so many conquerors in previous ages. Let us visit Delhi and see its
-defences, its mosques, the palaces of its Emperors, and the memorials of
-the Mutiny. Then we will go to Agra to see other splendid monuments of
-the Musulman dynasty. After that we will turn to Hardwar, at the point
-where the sacred Ganges bursts from its Himalayan valley on to the
-plain. Hardwar is a pilgrimage centre of the Hindus, second in sanctity
-only to Benares itself.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 6.
-The Kashmir Gate, Delhi.] East of Delhi, running almost due southward,
-is the river Jumna, crossed by the great bridge of the East Indian
-Railway, which carries the main line from Delhi through the United
-Provinces and Bengal to Calcutta. West of the city is the last spur of
-the Aravalli hills, the famous Ridge of Delhi, striking northeastward.
-The city lies between the Ridge and the Jumna. It may be divided into
-three parts. To the north is the European quarter. In the centre is
-Shahjahanabad, or modern Delhi, entered from the north by the Kashmir
-Gate. Between Shahjahanabad and the river is the Fort. The Jama Masjid
-(Great Mosque) stands in the centre of Shahjahanabad, and the Kalan
-Masjid (Black Mosque) is about half a mile further south. Passing out of
-the modern city southward by the Delhi Gate we enter Firozabad, or
-ancient Delhi, the capital of the earlier Mogul rulers. Further still to
-the south are even more ancient ruins.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 7.
-Jama Masjid, Delhi.] [Sidenote: 8.
-View from halfway up a Minaret, Jama Masjid.] [Sidenote: 9.
-View from top of Minaret, looking south.] [Sidenote: 10.
-The Same, looking northeast.] [Sidenote: 11.
-Kalan Masjid, Delhi.] Let us begin our sight-seeing in the centre of the
-modern city, at the Jama Masjid, a great building of marble and
-sandstone. Its principal treasures are a hair of Muhammad, and some of
-his handwriting. Here is a view of the mosque from the balcony of a
-neighbouring house. Let us go up one of the minarets and look over the
-city. This is a view taken from a little gallery half way up. To the
-left is seen part of the large central dome of the mosque, and to the
-right the top of one of the columns which rise on either side of the
-main archway. Beyond, far below, can be seen part of the city. Next we
-have a view, due southward, from the top of the minaret. The Kalan
-Masjid is just visible in the foreground, but a smoke haze obscures the
-more distant part of the town. We turn round and look northeastward over
-the Fort. Notice on the ground the shadow of the other minaret of the
-mosque. In the distance can be seen the Jumna, and crossing it the great
-bridge of the East Indian Railway. Here we have a closer view of the
-Kalan Masjid, or Black Mosque, built in the original style of the
-mosques of Arabia with many small solid domes, unadorned by carving. It
-has a sombre appearance. We see in front one of these domes, and behind
-it the tops of two others.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 12.
-The Lahore Gate, Delhi Fort.] [Sidenote: 13.
-The Delhi Gate, Delhi Fort.] [Sidenote: 14.
-The Pearl Mosque, Delhi Fort.] [Sidenote: 15.
-The Hall of Public Audience, Delhi Fort.] [Sidenote: 16.
-The Orpheus Panel.] The chief glory of Delhi is, however, the Fort, and
-the group of palace buildings within its precincts. It is approached
-through the Lahore Gate, of which we have here a view. This gate is in
-the middle of the west side of the Fort. Along the east side flows the
-River Jumna. In the southern face there is another great gateway, the
-Delhi Gate, with a grey stone elephant on either side of the entry.
-Within the Fort, is the Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, built by
-Aurangzeb, of white and grey marble. The finest of the buildings of the
-Fort is, however, the great Hall of Public Audience, the Diwan-i-Am.
-There is a raised recess, in the wall of this hall, where formerly stood
-the famous Peacock Throne of Aurangzeb, made of solid gold inlaid with
-diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, and backed by two peacocks set thick
-with gems. This throne was carried off when the Persians under Nadir
-Shah sacked the city in 1739, and massacred most of its inhabitants.
-Above the entry to the recess of the Peacock Throne are a number of
-panels about nine inches high and six inches broad, made of inlaid
-stones. Here is a photograph of one of them. Some of these panels were
-injured, but, thanks to Lord Curzon, an expert artist from Florence has
-recently restored them and made new ones in the spirit of the earlier to
-fill the vacant spaces.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 17.
-The Hall of Private Audience, Delhi Fort.] We pass next to the innermost
-court of the Fort-palace, the Hall of Private Audience, the
-Diwan-i-Khas, ninety feet long and seventy feet broad, built of white
-marble with many inlaid flowers of jewels. Beneath the cornice runs the
-famous inscription: “If there is a Paradise upon earth it is this, it is
-this.” Here we see one of the graceful arches, and beyond in the
-distance the towers of the Pearl Mosque, already described.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 18.
-Mausoleum of Humayun, Delhi.] To see old Delhi we must drive from the
-modern city either by the Delhi Gate in the south wall of the Fort or by
-the Ajmer Gate in the southeast corner of the city wall, past great
-dome-topped temples, most of them in ruins, until a few miles out, not
-far from the trunk road leading from Delhi to Agra, we come to the
-Mausoleum of Humayun, of which we have here a view. The design, as will
-be realised presently, is very similar to that of the Taj Mahal at Agra,
-but the Mausoleum is the older building. Notice the terraced platform on
-which it stands. It is built of red sandstone and marble. Beneath the
-platform, and approached by a long dark passage, is the vault where
-Humayun is buried. Around the Mausoleum are a number of old ruins, and
-the debris and cactus remind one of Pagan in Burma, which we saw in the
-second lecture.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 19.
-The Kutab Minar and Iron Pillar, Delhi.] We resume our drive, past
-ruined tombs and walls, and at last, about eleven miles south of Delhi,
-we come to the buildings of the Kutab Minar, where are some of the few
-remains of the Hindu period now visible in the neighbourhood, though the
-mass of the work is of Muhammadan date. The Kutab was begun at the end
-of the 12th century, on the site of an ancient Hindu temple destroyed by
-the Musulmans. The famous Iron Pillar stands in front of the mosque. It
-is one of the most remarkable of all the antiquities of India, for it
-consists of a solid mass of wrought iron, weighing probably more than
-six tons, and measuring some 24 feet in height, with an average diameter
-of a little over a foot. At the base is an inscription in Sanskrit, from
-which it appears that its probable date is the fourth century, A.D. This
-inscription runs thus: “As long as I stand so long shall the Hindu
-kingdom endure.” The Kutab mosque is the Moslem reply to this. The
-wrought iron of the Pillar has an almost bluish colour when seen against
-the warm sunlit red sandstone of the great Kutab Tower. In this
-photograph a man has climbed to the top of the Pillar, and stands there
-as though a statue, giving us the scale of the monument.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 20.
-The Lat of Asoka, the Ridge, Delhi.] Now let us visit the district to
-north of the modern city, of deep interest in connection with the
-Mutiny. On the Ridge top, between the Flagstaff Tower towards its
-northeastern end and the Mutiny Memorial further south, is another
-curious pillar, this one of stone, called the Lat of Asoka. At its base
-is the following modern inscription:
-
-“This pillar was originally erected at Meerut in the third century B.C.
-by King Asoka. It was removed thence, and set up in the Koshuk Shikar
-Palace by the Emperor Firuz Shah in A.D. 1356, but was thrown down and
-broken into five pieces by the explosion of a powder magazine A.D.
-1713-1719. It was restored and set up in this place by the British
-Government A.D. 1867.”
-
-
-[Sidenote: 21.
-The Flagstaff Tower, the Ridge, Delhi.] We will walk past the various
-memorials of the Mutiny struggle. Here is the Flagstaff Tower, in which
-were gathered at the outbreak of danger the women and children of the
-British garrison anxiously looking for relief from Meerut. But the
-relief did not come, and Delhi was stormed and captured by the
-mutineers. The refugees in the Flagstaff Tower were compelled to fly for
-their lives to Karnal, on the road to the Punjab, where gradually
-British troops and loyal natives were assembled. The British returned to
-the Ridge, and for two months the siege of the city was pressed, but
-unsuccessfully. A brigade and a siege train then arrived from the
-Punjab, commanded by General Nicholson. The struggle continued for yet
-another month. Our troops were not in sufficient force to surround and
-starve the city, and it was therefore necessary to bombard and storm the
-defences. Slowly the British won their way into the town, though with
-terrible loss. General Nicholson was himself wounded in one of the
-assaults, and died a week later. At last, on the 20th September, the
-Fort was taken, and next day the rebel King of Delhi was captured at
-Humayun’s Tomb, and was exiled to Rangoon. Two of his sons were shot in
-front of the Delhi Gate. The terrible nature of this siege may be
-realised from the fact that of the ten thousand British and loyal native
-troops who took part in it nearly four thousand were killed and wounded.
-Here is the statue of General Nicholson in the park named after him,
-just south of the cemetery, outside the Kashmir Gate, where he is
-buried. On the Ridge itself is the Mutiny Memorial, unfortunately not a
-very beautiful building.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 22.
-General Nicholson’s Statue, Delhi.] [Sidenote: 23.
-The Mutiny Memorial, the Ridge, Delhi.]
-
-
-[Sidenote: 24.
-Horse Fair, Delhi.] [Sidenote: 25.
-Dariba Street, Delhi.] Finally, we have two scenes of native life at
-Delhi. The first is a horse fair outside the Kashmir Gate, and the
-second a street view.
-
-Let us travel to Agra, which stands on the right bank of the Jumna,
-about a hundred miles southeast of Delhi. The Jumna flows from north to
-south until beside Agra Fort, and then turns sharply eastward. About a
-mile and a half further on, on the same right bank, now the south side
-of the river, there stands the Taj Mahal, the most celebrated of all
-Muhammadan tombs. The building of Agra Fort was commenced by the Emperor
-Akbar in the middle of the 16th century, and was completed by Shah
-Jahan, the father of Aurangzeb, in the 17th century. It was this Shah
-Jahan who built the Palace within the Fort and also the Taj.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 26.
-The Pearl Mosque, Agra Fort.] The Fort and the buildings which it
-contains rise by the side of the river and dominate the plain beyond it.
-Here within the Fort we have a view of the marble interior of the Moti
-Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, built by Shah Jahan in the middle of the 17th
-century. The floor is divided by inlaid lines of black and yellow marble
-into some six hundred separate divisions, called Masalas, used by the
-Musulmans for prayer. In the centre is a large marble tank. The effect
-produced on entering this mosque is profound. Outside, the city may be
-quivering in a haze of heat, but here the cool and soft light, and an
-entire absence of any discordant features in the architecture, combine
-to give a sense of rest and peace. Many Europeans have remarked that
-this mosque is a rendering in stone of the text “My house shall be
-called the house of prayer.”
-
-
-[Sidenote: 27.
-Jehangir’s Throne, Agra Fort.] [Sidenote: 28.
-The Jessamine Tower, Agra Fort.] [Sidenote: 29.
-The Seat of the Jester, Agra Fort.] Let us go out on to the open space
-by the wall, and look over the moat which divides the main buildings of
-the Fort from the outer rampart by the river. Across the water the Taj
-Mahal can just be seen beyond the bend of the river. In front of us is
-Jehangir’s throne, set up in the time of Akbar. It consists of a single
-great slab of black marble. Close by, is the Jessamine Tower. Here we
-have another view in which we see the Throne from the back and a corner
-of the Jessamine Tower. Notice the lower slab opposite, which is called
-the Seat of the Jester. The effect of its presence is by contrast to
-enhance the beauty of Jehangir’s Throne itself. Between the wall in the
-foreground and the outer ramparts by the river there is a drop of some
-sixty feet, and in this ditch fights between lions and elephants used to
-be held in the days of the Mogul Emperors.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 30.
-Jama Masjid, Agra.] Just outside the Fort, facing the west or Delhi
-Gate, is the Jama Masjid, of which we have here a view. We see the
-courtyard and one of the entries. The peculiarity of this mosque lies in
-the structure of the three great domes. They are without necks. We can
-just see the tops of two of them. They are built of red sandstone, and
-the encircling bands are of white marble.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 31.
-Taj Mahal, Agra.] [Sidenote: 32.
-The Taj Gardens.] [Sidenote: 33.
-The Same, by moonlight.] We will now visit the Taj Mahal. It was built,
-chiefly of marble inlaid with precious stones, by Shah Jahan as a tomb
-for his queen. Here we have a view of the Taj taken from without the
-entrance gateway. Then we pass through the gateway and enter the Taj
-Gardens. The watercourse in the centre is of marble, and along each side
-is a row of cypresses. The original cypresses had grown to such a height
-that the view of the Taj was becoming obstructed. They were therefore
-removed, and those which we see in the picture were planted by Lord
-Curzon, when he was Viceroy. The Taj is perhaps most beautiful in the
-light of the setting sun, or by moonlight. We have here a photograph
-made from a painting of the Taj by moonlight.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 34.
-The Bazaar, Agra.] [Sidenote: 35.
-Agra College.] [Sidenote: 36.
-Agra Jail—Wool spinning.] [Sidenote: 37.
-Agra Jail—Carpet making.] We will drive back through the native city.
-This is a typical scene in the Bazaar. Notice the Kotwal, or Chief of
-the Police, in the centre of the crowd. He is an Afghan, standing well
-over six feet in height and finely proportioned. On the awning over one
-of the shops an advertisement obtrudes, showing that even the native
-quarters of the cities of India are being permeated with European
-methods. Here is Agra College, endowed about a century ago by the then
-Maharaja of Gwalior. There are about a thousand students. Close by is
-the Jail. In this picture we see some of the prisoners spinning wool,
-and in the next they are making carpets.
-
-
-The next series of pictures relates to the great Muhammadan anniversary
-of the Moharam, and in order to understand them it is necessary to say a
-few words regarding the history of Islam and the contending sects which
-have emerged from that history. Muhammad died in the year 632. He left
-no son; but one of his daughters, Fatima, was married to a cousin whose
-name was Ali. Abu Bakr, who had been a great friend and supporter of
-Muhammad, was elected Caliph or Vice-Regent of the Prophet. Abu Bakr
-died in 634, and was succeeded by Omar, who conquered Persia and Syria.
-To him Jerusalem capitulated. Omar was murdered in the same year, and
-was succeeded by Osman, who was killed in 656. Then Ali, the cousin and
-son-in-law of Muhammad, was elected to the Caliphate. Ali was murdered
-in 661, and Hasan, his son, was elected Caliph in his place, but was
-induced to resign in favour of a Caliph of another family. Husain, the
-second son of Ali, never acknowledged the title of the Caliph who had
-superseded his brother Hasan, and when the Musulmans of Mesopotamia
-invited him to overthrow the usurping Caliph he felt it his duty to
-respond to their appeal. Accompanied by his family and a few retainers
-he left for Mesopotamia. On the way, at a place called Karbala, on the
-west bank of the Euphrates, they were overtaken by the Caliph’s army,
-and after a heroic struggle lasting several days were all slaughtered,
-save the women and a sickly child called Ali, who died soon afterwards.
-Thus ended the Republic of Islam. Up to this time the office of Caliph
-had been elective and the government essentially democratic. The seat of
-government was now moved from Medina to Damascus.
-
-In the middle of the eighth century of the Christian era a great
-revolution took place in Western Asia. The revolt was headed by a
-descendant of Abbas, an uncle of the Prophet, and the outcome of it was
-that the Abbassides, or members of the family of Abbas, established
-themselves as Caliphs, and ruled at Bagdad from the year 756 to the year
-1258. When Bagdad was destroyed by the Mongols a member of the
-Abbassides family escaped to Cairo, where he was recognised as Caliph by
-the Sultan of Egypt. The eighth Caliph in succession from this man
-renounced the Caliphate in favour of Sultan Salim, the great Ottoman
-conqueror, and it is on this renunciation that the title of the Sultan
-of Turkey to the spiritual headship of Islam is based.
-
-It will be seen from this short statement of the history that a great
-change took place in Islam when Husain, the descendant of the Caliph Ali
-and of Fatima, the Prophet’s daughter, was slain at Karbala, on the
-Euphrates. From that tragedy dates the chief division of Islam. The
-Shiah sect traces its foundation to the Caliph Ali and the immediate
-descendants of the Prophet, who are regarded as the rightful exponents
-of his teaching. Some twenty millions of the Indian Musulmans are
-Shiahs, and Shiahism is also the State religion of Persia. There are a
-large number of Shiahs also in other parts of the Muhammadan world, but
-nowhere, except in Persia, a majority. The Shiahs are advocates of
-Apostolic descent and lineal succession to the Caliphate.
-
-The other of the two great divisions of the Musulmans are the Sunnis,
-who advocate the principle of election to the Caliphate. Almost all the
-Sunnis acknowledge the spiritual headship of the Sultan of Turkey, who
-is, of course, repudiated by the Shiahs. At the present time nearly 50
-millions of the Musulmans of India are Sunnis, and there are Sunni
-Musulmans in China, Tartary, Afghanistan, Asiatic and European Turkey,
-Arabia, Egypt, Northern and Central Africa, Bosnia, Herzegovina, Russia,
-Ceylon, and the Malay Archipelago.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 38.
-Moharam Time at Agra.] [Sidenote: 39.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 40.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 41.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 42.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 43.
-Shiahs burying Tazias.] We are now in a position to understand the
-significance of the anniversary of the Karbala. Annually there is held
-in the Muhammadan month Moharam a festival in memory of the death of
-Husain. The scenes of the battle are reproduced, and the tazia or tomb
-of Husain is carried in procession amidst cries of “Hasan, Husain!”
-Properly, this is a Shiah festival only, but in India both the Sunnis
-and Shiahs take part in it. Here are photographs representing the
-festival. The tazias are pagoda-like structures, made of a variety of
-materials. They are carried in long procession through the town, and
-finally the little biers—representative of the biers of Hasan and
-Husain—contained inside the tazias are buried at the Karbala, outside
-the city. We have first a street view in Agra showing the crowd at
-Moharam time. In the distance is Agra Fort. Next we have three views of
-the procession of the tazias, and then a view of the Karbala beyond the
-city, where the biers from the tazias are buried. The Shiahs, however,
-do not bury their tazias in the Karbala, but on the banks of the Jumna.
-Here we see them in the early morning conducting the ceremony with most
-solemn ritual.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 44.
-Fields of Wheat and Barley.] [Sidenote: 45.
-The Public Audience Hall, Fatehpur Sikri.] [Sidenote: 46.
-The Great Capital, Fatehpur Sikri.] [Sidenote: 47.
-Gate of Victory, Fatehpur Sikri.] Let us drive out from Agra
-southwestward on the road to Fatehpur Sikri, the city erected by the
-Emperor Akbar, but abandoned by his successors in favour of Agra. On the
-way, we note fields of wheat and barley, separated by an irrigation
-channel. We pass villages amid mango trees, and occasional ruins, and
-arrive at Fatehpur Sikri. There we enter the great quadrangle and the
-Public Audience Hall of the Palace, built of red sandstone. It was in
-this hall that Akbar used to sit on certain days to see personally
-anyone who had grievances to lay before him. Notice in the quadrangle
-the stone pierced with a hole which is fixed in the ground. Criminals
-were put to death by being trampled upon by an elephant, and to that
-ring the elephant was tied. We pass on to the Private Audience Hall of
-Akbar, the Diwan-i-Khas. Note the huge capital of the column in the
-centre. Tradition says that Akbar used to sit on the top of this
-capital. Finally, here is the magnificent Gate of Victory.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 48.
-Mausoleum of Akbar, Sikandra.] [Sidenote: 49.
-The Same—a Marble Inscription.] [Sidenote: 50.
-The Same—the Cloisters.] We leave Fatehpur Sikri, and drive back, past
-many other tombs, in the direction of the Cantonment at Agra until we
-come to the burial place of Akbar at Sikandra. This is the gateway of
-the great Mausoleum. Notice the cut marble inscriptions down the sides
-of the arch. They are quotations from the Koran. Here is a clearer
-photograph of a part of these inscriptions, and here we have the marble
-court above the tomb of Akbar. Round the Cloisters are verses
-celebrating his greatness. “Think not that the sky will be so kind as
-Akbar was,” is the tenor of one of them.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 51.
-Hariki Piri, Hardwar.] [Sidenote: 52.
-Sarwan Nath Temple, Hardwar.] [Sidenote: 53.
-The Same, from above.] [Sidenote: 54.
-Camels at Hardwar.]
-
-
-Finally we will travel away to Hardwar, some two hundred miles due north
-of Agra. It is on the Ganges, at the point where the river leaves the
-last foot hills of the Himalayas and enters the plain. Hardwar is a
-great centre of Hindu pilgrimage for the purpose of ablution in the
-sacred waters. At the annual fair are gathered hundreds of thousands of
-worshippers. So great has been the crush of people endeavouring to bathe
-that on occasion many have been trampled upon and drowned. The great day
-at Hardwar is towards the end of March, when the Hindu year begins, and
-when, according to tradition, the Ganges river first appeared from its
-source in the mountains. There was a town of Hardwar more than a
-thousand years ago, but its ancient buildings have disappeared. Here we
-have a view of the famous Bathing Ghat, a comparatively small flight of
-steps, where the river is considered to be specially sacred. The water
-is purer than at Benares in the plain. It flows swiftly and is as clear
-as crystal. Near by we have a temple, the Sarwan Nath, with great stone
-elephants, and here is a second view of the same temple seen from a
-neighbouring roof. Notice the Trisul, or bronze trident, the typical
-weapon of Siva, the Destroyer.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 55.
-Sacred Cow at Hardwar.] Here is a string of camels at Hardwar, and then
-a sacred cow—especially sacred because deformed, for a freak of nature
-is miraculous.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 56.
-The Road to Mussoorie.] [Sidenote: 57.
-The Same, Coolies carrying Baggage.] [Sidenote: 58.
-The Same, a Tree across the Road.] [Sidenote: 59.
-Mussoorie.] [Sidenote: 60.
-The Himalayas from Mussoorie.] Not far northward of Hardwar, among the
-foot hills of the Himalayas, is Mussoorie, a hill station supplementary
-to Simla. Mussoorie is about a mile above sea level. We have two views
-taken on the steep mountain road up to it; the second shows coolies
-carrying baggage. In the next view we realise something of the
-difficulties of travel in these hill districts of much rainfall, for the
-road is blocked by the fall of a great tree. Here we have a view of
-Mussoorie itself, and then the landscape from Mussoorie looking towards
-the Himalayan ranges to the north. Close by, but lower down, is Dehra
-Dun, the headquarters of the Gurkha Rifles, enlisted from Nepal, and
-also of the Imperial Cadet Corps, a small training force consisting
-wholly of the sons of ruling chiefs. We shall hear of the Gurkhas again
-in connection with the defences of India, which will be the subject of
-the next and concluding lecture of this Course.
-
-
- --------------
-
-
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-
-
-
-
- LECTURE VIII.
-
-
- ---
-
- =THE NORTHWEST FRONTIER.=
-
- ---
-
- THE SIKHS.
-
-In the British Empire there is but one land frontier on which warlike
-preparation must ever be ready. It is the Northwest Frontier of India.
-True that there is another boundary, even longer, drawn across the
-American Continent, but there, fortunately, only customs houses are
-necessary and an occasional police guard. The Northwest Frontier of
-India, on the other hand, lies through a region whose inhabitants have
-been recruited throughout the ages by invading warlike races. Except for
-the Gurkha mountaineers of Nepal, the best soldiers of the Indian Army
-are derived from the northwest, from the Rajputs, the Sikhs, the Punjabi
-Musulmans, the Dogra mountaineers north of the Punjab, and the Pathan
-mountaineers west of the Punjab. The provinces along the frontier, and
-the Afghan land immediately beyond it, are the one region in all India
-from which, under some ambitious lead, the attempt might be made to
-establish a fresh imperial rule by the overthrow of the British Raj. It
-would not be the freedom of India which would ensue, but an oriental
-despotism and race domination from the northwest. Such is the teaching
-of history, and such the obvious fate of the less warlike peoples of
-India, should the power of Britain be broken either by warfare on the
-spot, or by the defeat of our navy. Beyond the northwest frontier,
-moreover, at a greater or less distance are the continental Powers of
-Europe.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 1.
-Political Map of Northwest India.] The Indian army and the Indian
-strategical railways are therefore organized with special reference to
-the belt of territory, extending from northeast to southwest, which lies
-beyond the Indian desert and is traversed from end to end by the Indus
-River. This frontier belt divides naturally into two parts. Inland we
-have the Punjab, where the rivers, emerging from their mountain valleys,
-gradually close together through the plain to form the single stream of
-the lower Indus; seaward we have Sind, where the Indus divides into
-distributaries forming a delta. Sind, as already stated, is a part of
-the Bombay Province, with which it is connected by sea from the Port of
-Karachi. Of late a railway has been constructed from Ahmadabad in the
-main territory of Bombay, across the southern end of the Desert, to
-Hyderabad at the head of the Indus delta. The Punjab is a separate
-Province with its own Lieutenant-Governor resident at Lahore. It was
-conquered from the Sikhs by a British army based on Delhi, and therefore
-ultimately on Calcutta.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 2.
-Map of Lower Asia.] To understand the significance of the Northwest
-Frontier of India we must look far beyond the immediate boundaries of
-the Empire. We have here a map of Lower Asia. Upon it we see a broad
-tract of upland which, commencing in Asia Minor, extends through Armenia
-and Persia to include Baluchistan and Afghanistan. There is thus one
-continuous belt of plateau stretching from Europe to the boundary of
-India. The eastern end of this belt, that is to say, Persia,
-Afghanistan, and Baluchistan, is known as Iran. On all sides save the
-northwest and the northeast, the Iranian plateau descends abruptly to
-lowlands or to the sea. Southward and southwestward lie the Arabian Sea
-and the Persian Gulf, and the long lowland which is traversed by the
-rivers Euphrates and Tigris. Northward, to the east of the Caspian Sea,
-is the broad lowland of Turkestan, traversed by the Rivers Oxus and
-Jaxartes, draining into the Sea of Aral. Eastward is the plain of the
-Indus. The defence of India from invasion depends in the first place on
-the maintenance of British sea power in the Persian Gulf and along the
-south coast of Baluchistan, and in the second place on our refusal to
-allow the establishment of alien bases of power on the Iranian plateau,
-especially on those parts of it which lie towards the south and east.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 3.
-Map of the Northwest Frontier.] In the next map we have on a larger
-scale the detail of that part of Iran which lies nearest to India. Here
-we see, west of the Punjab, a great triangular mass of mountain ridges
-which splay out westward and southward from the northeast. These ridges
-and the intervening valleys constitute Afghanistan. Flowing from the
-Afghan valleys we have on the one hand the Kabul river, which descends
-eastward to the Indus, and, on the other hand, the greater river
-Helmund, which flows southwestward into the depressed basin of Seistan,
-where it divides into many channels, forming as it were an inland delta
-from which the waters are evaporated by the hot air, for there is no
-opening to the sea. The valley of the Kabul river on the one hand, and
-the oasis of Seistan on the other, might in the hands of an enemy become
-bases wherein to prepare the invasion of India. Therefore, without
-annexing this intricate and difficult upland, we have declared it to be
-the policy of Britain to exclude from Afghanistan and from Seistan all
-foreign power.
-
-Further examination of the map will show that there are two lines, and
-only two, along which an invasion of India might be conducted. On the
-one hand, the mountains become very narrow just north of the head of the
-Kabul River. There in fact a single though lofty ridge, the Hindu Kush,
-is all that separates the basin of the Oxus from that of the Indus. As
-we see from the map, low ground is very near on the two sides of the
-Hindu Kush. The way into India over the passes of the Hindu Kush is
-known as the Khyber route, from the name of the last defile by which the
-track descends into the Indian Plain.
-
-If we now look some five hundred miles to the southwest of Kabul, we see
-that the Afghan mountains come suddenly to an end, and that a pathway
-leads round their fringe from Herat to the Indus Basin, passing along
-the border of Seistan. From Herat to beyond Kandahar, this way lies over
-an upland plain and is easy, but the last part of the journey is through
-a mountainous district down to the lowland of the Indus. This is the
-Bolan route, so called from the last gorge towards India. It will be
-noticed that the Bolan route debouches upon the Indus opposite to the
-great Indian Desert. Therefore it is that the Khyber route has been the
-more frequented. It leads directly between the desert and the mountain
-foot, upon the inner gateway of India at Delhi.
-
-We conquered the Punjab from the Sikhs, but for many centuries it had
-been ruled by the Musulmans. In the break up of the Mogul Empire
-invaders had come, during the eighteenth century, from Persia and from
-Afghanistan, who carried devastation even as far as Delhi. Thus it was
-that with relative ease the Sikhs as contemporaries of the Marathas
-established a dominion in the helpless Punjab. They extended their rule
-also into the mountains of Kashmir, north of Lahore.
-
-Let us commence our survey of the northwest at Dehra Dun, which is
-placed in a mountain valley among the foot hills of the Himalayas, not
-far from the hill station of Mussoorie, of which we heard in the last
-lecture. Then from Dehra Dun we will travel two hundred miles
-northwestward, crossing the Beas, one of the five rivers of the Punjab,
-to Amritsar, the holy city of the Sikhs. Fifty miles west of Amritsar,
-on the Ravi, another of the Indus tributaries, is Lahore, the
-traditional capital of the Punjab. From Lahore onward we traverse
-irrigated strips of fertile ground, with sandy plains intervening, with
-a scanty herbage for a few camels. Then follows a broken and more
-desolate country in the north of the Punjab. So we come to the Indus
-itself, and beyond this, nearly three hundred miles from Lahore, to the
-military station of Peshawar, the last Indian city on the great track
-leading northwestward from Calcutta, through Allahabad and Delhi. Not
-far from Peshawar is the Khyber Pass.
-
-The Khyber is protected by its own hill tribes. We have enlisted them on
-the side of law and order by enrolling them into military forces, just
-as the Scottish Highlanders were enrolled in the British army in the
-18th century.
-
-Then leaving Peshawar we will visit Quetta, some five hundred miles
-southwestward, and see there the second great centre of British force on
-the Frontier. It has been established to command the Bolan route to
-Kandahar and Herat. The whole army in India is organised with reference
-to these two points, Peshawar and Quetta, or in other words, the Khyber
-and the Bolan. There are many other passes in the frontier mountains,
-but they offer merely loopways from the two main routes.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 4.
-12th Bengal Infantry.] [Sidenote: 5.
-Bombay Mountain Battery.] [Sidenote: 6.
-Heavy Battery in Elephant Draught.] The Indian forces are now grouped
-into a Northern and a Southern army. The Northern army is distributed
-southeastward from Peshawar past Delhi and Allahabad to Calcutta, so
-that all the forces along that long line may be regarded as supporting
-the brigades on the Khyber front. The Southern army is similarly posted
-for the reinforcement of Quetta. It is distributed in the Bombay
-Presidency and immediately around. The conditions of the defence of
-India have of course been vitally changed by the construction of the
-Northwestern Railway from the port of Karachi through the Indus basin,
-with its two branches towards the Bolan and the Khyber. To-day that
-defence could be conducted over the seas directly from Britain through
-Karachi, so that the desert of Rajputana would lie between the defending
-forces and the main community of India within.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 7.
-18th P. W. Tiwana Horse.] [Sidenote: 8.
-Gurkha Rifles: Physical Drill.] [Sidenote: 9.
-The Same—Bayonet Practice.] [Sidenote: 10.
-32nd Mountain Battery, Advancing Down Hill.] [Sidenote: 11.
-The Same—Retiring Up Hill.] [Sidenote: 12.
-Battery in Action.] As we start for Dehra Dun let us stop for a moment
-on the ridge at Delhi to see a squadron of the 18th Prince of Wales’s
-Tiwana Horse, recruited partly from among the Sikhs and partly from the
-Musulmans. Then at Dehra Dun we have the Gurkha Rifles. We see them at
-physical drill and then at bayonet practice. At the same place we visit
-a battery of Mountain Artillery, for Dehra Dun is in the Terai, at the
-foot of the Himalayas. Mountain batteries are much utilised in
-operations over the broken and hilly country towards the Northwest
-Frontier. The men are Punjabis; and it will be noticed that the guns are
-carried by mules. Here we see the battery advancing down hill, and here
-we see it retiring up hill. Then we have a mountain gun in action.
-
-From Dehra Dun we proceed to Amritsar, the chief centre of the Sikh
-religion, which resulted from a reformation of Hinduism in the middle of
-the fifteenth century. It is therefore modern indeed as compared with
-the parent religion itself. The Sikhs abandoned idolatry, and also
-distinctions of caste. The word Sikh means “disciple.” In their origin a
-religious sect, the Sikhs developed into a powerful military
-commonwealth, which rose to great position in the Punjab and surrounding
-lands as the Mogul strength decayed at Delhi. The Sikhs only succumbed
-to the British after two wars, fought in 1846 and 1849, which were among
-the severest in the whole history of British India. Yet they remained
-loyal during the Mutiny.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 13.
-The Causeway and the Golden Temple, Amritsar.] [Sidenote: 14.
-The Golden Temple, Amritsar.] [Sidenote: 15.
-The Akal Bungah, Amritsar.] The Emperor Akbar granted to the Sikhs a
-site for their capital by the shore of a sacred tank, and this capital,
-Amritsar, has now grown to be a city of over 150,000 inhabitants, the
-third most wealthy and populous of the Punjab. It is surpassed only by
-Delhi and Lahore, and Delhi has been included in the Punjab only in
-recent times, and for convenience of administration. In this view we see
-the famous Golden Temple, built in the centre of the sacred tank. The
-bridge across the water leading to the entry is of marble. The doors of
-the gateway are of silver without, and on the inner side of wood inlaid
-with ivory. The lower part of the walls of the temple itself are of
-white marble inlaid with jaspar and mother-of-pearl, but the upper part
-is plated with gilded copper. In the middle of the temple, under a
-canopy, is the Grant Sahib, the sacred book of the Sikhs, covered with a
-cloth of gold. Here we have another view of the Golden Temple seen
-across the tank, and behind it is the Clock Tower. Opposite the chief
-entry to the temple is a square surrounded by public buildings, of which
-the most important is the Akal Bungah, wherein are performed the
-ceremonies of initiation and investiture of the Sikhs.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 16.
-School of Sikh and Hindu Children.] [Sidenote: 17.
-Street Scene, Amritsar.] [Sidenote: 18.
-Street Conjurer, Amritsar.] A few scenes follow showing phases of life
-at Amritsar. Here we see a part of the tesselated pavement which
-surrounds the sacred tank, and a school of Hindu and Sikh children. Next
-is a street scene showing the gateway leading to another sacred tank,
-and here is a conjurer with a cobra entwined about his neck. Amritsar
-has to-day become an important manufacturing city. From raw materials
-brought by the Khyber route, from the central Asian markets, are here
-manufactured shawls of the famous Kashmir design, and also fine silks,
-embroideries, carpets, carvings, and metal work of various kinds.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 19.
-Lahore, from roof of Shish Mahal.] [Sidenote: 20.
-West Gate, Jama Masjid, Lahore.] Let us now go on to Lahore, the ancient
-and the modern capital of the Punjab. Here is a view taken from the roof
-of the Shish Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors, in the Fort of Lahore, looking
-towards the southwest, over the Jama Masjid, towards the River Ravi, on
-whose left bank the city stands. Next is seen the fine west gate of the
-Jama Masjid, a mosque built by the Emperor Aurangzeb, which contains
-relics of Muhammad.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 21.
-Zamzamah, Lahore.] [Sidenote: 22.
-Sarai, Lahore.] [Sidenote: 23.
-The Same, showing Wazir Khan’s House.] [Sidenote: 24.
-Old Houses, Lahore.] Do you remember “Kim” in Rudyard Kipling’s book? We
-have in this view the Zamzamah, the old gun under the tree on which Kim
-sat in the first chapter. Astride on its muzzle is an urchin, just like
-what Kim must have been. Here is the Sarai, a quadrangle about sixty
-yards square, with round arched verandahs on all sides. Note the well in
-the centre. Next is the actual house where Wazir Khan, Kipling’s Mahbub
-Ali, used to sleep. Beyond may be seen horses brought for sale. The
-Sarai belongs to-day to the Maharaja of Kashmir, who obtains a revenue
-from the fees paid by the horsedealers using it. Near by we have a busy
-street scene, showing old houses belonging to Hindu merchants.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 25.
-The Court of Justice, Lahore.] [Sidenote: 26.
-Mayo School of Art, Lahore.] [Sidenote: 27.
-The same—Wood-working.] [Sidenote: 28.
-The Same—Metal-working.] [Sidenote: 29.
-Statuette of Buddha.] At Lahore there are a number of really handsome
-modern buildings. We have in this view the Court of Justice, situated in
-the chief street, the Mall. Next is the fine building of the Lahore
-School of Art, showing students sketching out of doors, and then a
-number of Punjabis in the wood-working room of the school. Here is the
-metal-working department. At the back of the room some senior students
-are finishing a large lamp in hammered brass-work, which was afterwards
-exhibited in London. The Lahore Museum, a corner of which we saw just
-now in the view of the “Kim” gun, is another fine building, containing
-among other curiosities a statuette of Buddha after his forty-nine days’
-fast, excavated at Sikri near Peshawar. This statuette, some three feet
-high and two feet broad, is one of the finest examples of ancient
-sculpture found in India. It is carved with extreme delicacy and
-refinement, and is supposed to date back to about the first century of
-the Christian era.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 30.
-Bridge of Boats over the Ravi, near Lahore.] [Sidenote: 31.
-Jehangir’s tomb.] We will drive out from Lahore to the west of the city
-on the high road to Peshawar. We pass the Musulman cemetery and the
-Hindu burning ground, and then reach the banks of the Ravi. A bridge of
-boats crosses the river a little below the railway bridge. Here we turn
-aside from the Peshawar road and reach Shahdara, where is the tomb of
-the Emperor Jehangir. In this picture we have a close view of part of
-it, showing the inlaid marble. Near by is the ruined tomb of Jehangir’s
-wife, Nur Jehan. It was probably never finished, and has been neglected.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 32.
-Edwardes Gate, Peshawar.] [Sidenote: 33.
-Kissa Kahani, Peshawar.] [Sidenote: 34.
-Police Station, Peshawar.] [Sidenote: 35.
-Silk Market, Peshawar.] [Sidenote: 36.
-In the Silk Market, Peshawar.] From Lahore we travel by the Northwestern
-Railway to Peshawar, a distance of nearly three hundred miles. Peshawar,
-as we have already learned, is the most important garrison city on the
-Northwest Frontier, and the capital of the recently created Northwest
-Frontier Province. It has about a hundred thousand inhabitants, chiefly
-Musulmans. Here we see the Edwardes Gate, with its fine pointed arch,
-and passing through it we enter the Kissa Kahani, the Lombard Street of
-Peshawar. The Edwardes Gate may be seen from within at the end of the
-street. Here is the Kotwali, or Police Station, and just within the
-gateway of the Kotwali is the Silk Market. Peshawar is a most important
-commercial centre on the great road from Samarkand and Bokhara in
-Central Asia, through Kabul and the Khyber, to Lahore and Delhi. In the
-bazaar we find representatives of many Asiatic races. Here we see skeins
-of Chinese silk, red and white and yellow, hung out in the sun to dry
-after being dyed. Near by are the stalls of bankers and money-changers,
-which are sometimes raided by the wild tribesmen visiting Peshawar from
-the neighbourhood of the Khyber Pass.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 37.
-Ghor Khatri, Peshawar.] [Sidenote: 38.
-Peshawar from the Ghor Khatri, looking north.] [Sidenote: 39.
-The Same, looking west.] In the northeastern corner of Peshawar is the
-famous Ghor Khatri, which stands on a piece of rising ground commanding
-a fine view over the whole city. Here is a part of the building, with a
-bullock cart in front. The Ghor Khatri was successively a Buddhist
-Monastery and a Hindu temple, and is now used as municipal offices and
-as the official residence of the agents of the Ameer of Afghanistan when
-they visit Peshawar. We climb to the roof and look upon the city
-beneath. A second view is in the direction of Jamrud and the Khyber.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 40.
-Gymnastic Class, Government High School, Peshawar.] [Sidenote: 41.
-Lowest Class, same School.] Here in Peshawar, on the very border of
-British rule, it is interesting to see the progress of western
-education. This is the Government High School. A class is in the
-playground under gymnastic instruction. The boys are mostly Musulmans,
-though a few Hindus may be distinguished by their caps in the place of
-turbans. This is the lowest class of the school, and is being taught
-reading and writing by a native master. Notice that the boys’ shoes have
-been taken off.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 42.
-Jamrud.] [Sidenote: 43.
-Khyber Rifles drilling.] [Sidenote: 44.
-Khyber Rifles marching.] [Sidenote: 45.
-Zakka Khel Afridis.] [Sidenote: 46.
-The Sarai, Jamrud.] [Sidenote: 47.
-Caravan, near Jamrud.] [Sidenote: 48.
-Ali Masjid.] [Sidenote: 49.
-Ali Masjid, nearer view.] [Sidenote: 50.
-A Subadar, 59th Sind Rifles.] Jamrud, at the immediate entrance to the
-Khyber, lies some nine miles west of Peshawar. Here is a distant view of
-it from the Peshawar road. To the right can just be seen the Fort, and
-to the left Jamrud Village. Next we see a company of the Khyber Rifles,
-photographed at Jamrud, and here the same company marching. By way of
-striking contrast, are a group of the Zakka Khel Afridis in their native
-dress. They are the raw material from which the Khyber Riflemen are
-made. Typical wild tribesmen of the hills, they have been enlisted in
-the British Army to keep them out of mischief, and also to assist in
-repelling raids by their fellow-tribesmen, who continue to dwell amid
-the hill fastnesses of the region. The Afridis, of whom the Zakka Khel
-is a clan, seem perfectly well content, provided that there is fighting,
-which they love for its own sake. Here we see the Sarai at Jamrud, where
-all caravans going into India or returning to Central Asia halt for the
-night. The men in this picture are mostly Kabulis, with long-haired
-Bactrian camels from Central Asia, stronger and finer than the Indian
-species. These camels are laden with tea, sugar, and general supplies.
-Outside Jamrud we see a caravan of Indian camels taking stores back to
-Peshawar after operations in the Khyber against the hill tribes. Beyond
-Jamrud the road enters the Khyber, with the sweeping curve seen in this
-view. The Fort of Ali Masjid, nearly three thousand feet above sea
-level, crowns a steeply sloping hill on the crest of the path between
-Jamrud and Landi Kotal, where begins the descent into Afghanistan. Here
-is a nearer view, with the tents of an expeditionary force at the foot
-of the Fort. It shows the continuation of the way in the direction of
-Landi Kotal. Notice how steep are the cliffs and how narrow the Pass at
-this point. Beneath the Fort, in the face of the hill, are seen caves in
-which dwell during the winter months the wild clan known as the Kuchi
-Khel. Finally, we have a portrait, painted in the camp at Ali Masjid, of
-Nasar Khan, a Subadar, or native officer, of the 59th Sind Rifles.
-
-We now leave the Khyber region and, following the Indus for some six
-hundred miles, we travel southward through a land which was not very
-long ago a desert. To-day, as the result of a great investment of
-British capital, irrigation works have changed the whole aspect of the
-country. The provinces of the Punjab and Sind have hitherto been
-regarded as significant chiefly in relation to the defence of the
-Northwest Frontier of India. They have now no less importance when
-considered in their economic development. The plain of the Indus has
-become one of the chief wheatfields of the British Empire, for wheat is
-the principal crop in the Punjab, in parts of Sind, and outside the
-basin of the Indus itself, in the districts of the United Provinces
-which lie about Agra. The wheat production of India on an average of
-years is five times as great as that of the United Kingdom, and about
-half as great as that of the United States. In one recent year at least,
-the export of wheat from India to the United Kingdom has exceeded that
-from the United States to the United Kingdom.
-
-The brown waste of the plains of the Punjab becomes after the winter
-rains a waving sea of green wheat extending over thousands of square
-miles. Cultivation now spreads far beyond the area within which the
-rainfall alone suffices. The lower Punjab and the central strip of Sind
-have been converted into a second Egypt. Though the navigation of the
-Indus is naturally inferior to that of the Ganges, yet communication has
-been maintained by boat from the Punjab to the sea from Greek times
-downward. The Indus flotilla of steamboats has, however, suffered
-fatally from the competition of the Northwestern Railway, and the wheat
-exported from Karachi is now almost wholly rail-borne.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 51.
-The Lansdowne Bridge.] [Sidenote: 52.
-The Same.] [Sidenote: 53.
-Khwaja Khizir Island.] Running southward through the fertile strip, not
-very far from the left or western bank of the river, the railway leaves
-the Punjab and enters Sind. At Rohri, one of the hottest places in all
-India in the summer time, a line branches northwestward to Quetta and
-Chaman, on the frontier of Afghanistan. Sukkur stands opposite to Rohri
-on the right bank of the river, and the Lansdowne Railway Bridge between
-these two towns is perhaps the most remarkable bridge in India. It was
-built between 1887 and 1889, and about three thousand tons of steel and
-iron were employed in its construction. It is eight hundred and forty
-feet in length, with two magnificent spans. We see in this slide a view
-of the Rohri end of it, taken from Suttian, an old nunnery founded for
-women who preferred seclusion rather than the funeral pyre. The Hindu
-custom was to burn the wife or wives with the husband’s body, until the
-British Government intervened to prevent the practice. One end of the
-town of Rohri, with its tall grey wattle and daub buildings, can be seen
-under the bridge. A train is upon the bridge, and in front are some Pala
-fishers, sailing on metal chatties into which they put the fish as they
-catch them. This is another view of the bridge seen from Rohri itself.
-We are here in the very heart of the rainless region. During twelve
-years there have only been six showers at Rohri! A great engineering
-scheme is now under consideration for damming the Indus near this point
-so as to raise the level of the water in the upper reaches of the river.
-In this manner the irrigation canals would be fed not only in time of
-flood, as at present, but in the dry season as well. Near Rohri, in the
-middle of the Indus channel, is Khwaja Khizir Island, on which stands an
-ancient Hindu temple. In the foreground of the picture near the water’s
-edge are Sindi boatmen mending their sails.
-
-
-From Sukkur, passing through Shikarpur and Jacobabad, the railway
-traverses the desert to the foot of the hills, and then ascends to
-Quetta either by the Mashkaf—the actual line of the Bolan having been
-abandoned—or by a longer loop line, the Harnai, which runs to the Peshin
-valley. The latter is the usual way. By the Mashkaf route the line is
-carried over a boulder-strewn plain about half a mile broad in the
-bottom of a gorge with steeply rising heights on either side. Here and
-there the strip of lower ground is trenched and split by deep canyons.
-At first the line follows the Mashkaf river, and the gradients are not
-very severe, but once Hirok, at the source of the Bolan river is passed,
-a gradient of one in twenty-five begins, and two powerful engines are
-required to drag the train up. The steep bounding ridges now close in on
-either side with cliffs rising almost perpendicularly to several hundred
-feet. Occasional block-houses high up amid the crags defend the Pass.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 54.
-The Chappar Rift.] [Sidenote: 55.
-The Same.] The gradients of the Harnai route are not quite so steep as
-those of the Mashkaf. Should either way be blocked or carried away by
-landslips or floods the other would be available. The Harnai line passes
-through the Chappar Rift, a precipitous gorge in a great mass of
-limestone. In this view we are approaching the Rift from Mangi, and then
-we have a view looking back from the middle of the Rift. As will be
-seen, the railway runs across high bridges and through tunnels in the
-mountain masses.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 56.
-Native Bazaar, Quetta.] Quetta occupies a very important strategical
-position, about a mile above sea level, in the midst of a small plain
-surrounded by great mountain ridges rising to a height of two miles and
-more. Irrigation works have been constructed in the Quetta plain, which
-is now an oasis among desert mountains, and has a population of some
-thirty thousand, including many Afghans. The Agent General for British
-Baluchistan resides there. The town, with its outposts, is of course
-very strongly fortified, commanding as it does the railways leading
-southeastward to the Indus, and the Khojak Pass leading northwestward to
-Chaman and Kandahar. Here we have a scene in the native bazaar, with
-Hindus performing a festival dance.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 57.
-Street in Chaman.] From Quetta the railway is carried northwestward,
-through the Khojak tunnel, for another hundred and twenty miles to
-Chaman on the frontier, where is a British outpost. Here is a street in
-Chaman, with two old Pathans. Chaman is at present the terminus of the
-railway. The material is, however, kept ready for its continuation, in
-case of need, to Kandahar, in Afghanistan, seventy miles further. From
-Kandahar through Herat to the rail-head of the Russian Trans-Caspian
-Railway is some four hundred miles. By this route, did circumstances
-allow, a connection might be made, giving through railway communication
-between Europe and India.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 58.
-The Proclamation of the Queen-Empress at the Delhi Durbar, 1st Jan.,
-1877.] At this last outpost of British Power we complete our journey
-through the great Indian Empire. It was with no intention of Empire that
-a few London merchants formed themselves into an East India Company in
-the days of Queen Elizabeth. It was with no great force of white
-soldiers that the conquest was in after centuries effected, but by the
-organisation of Indian strength in a time of disorder, due to the
-downfall of the Mogul Empire at Delhi. Province was added to province
-under the British Raj of no set design and ambition, but for defensive
-reasons under the threat of French or Maratha or Sikh rivalry. In the
-great Mutiny the system of power and administration, thus upbuilt almost
-casually, was tested, and it survived the test, but with a fundamental
-change. The East India Company was dissolved, and the British Government
-made itself directly responsible for peace and order in the Indian
-Continent. The proclamation by which Queen Victoria assumed the rule of
-India solemnly promised that in the administration of the country due
-regard should be paid to the ancient rights, usages, and customs of
-India. The change which was made in 1858, after the Mutiny, was
-completed in 1877, when at a great durbar of the princes of India, held
-at Delhi, Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 59.
-The Same.] The British Raj in India is an organisation unparalleled in
-history, for the Roman Empire consisted of provinces grouped round the
-Imperial City, but Britain is a quarter of the globe removed from India.
-Our power ultimately rests on our command of the seas and on the justice
-of our administration. When either of these fail, the British position
-in India will crumble. Within our duty of justice is included the
-generous but firmly-directed readjustment of the methods of Indian
-government, so as to adapt them to the now changing conditions of
-oriental society.
-
-
-[Sidenote: 60.
-The Same.] The responsibility for India is, indeed, a great one. It is
-idle to ask whether our forefathers should have assumed it. We could not
-withdraw now without throwing India into disorder, and causing untold
-suffering among three hundred million of our fellow human beings. Yet
-the administration of such an Empire calls for virtues in our race
-certainly not less than those needed for our own self-government. Above
-all, we require knowledge of India, and sympathy with the points of view
-begotten of oriental history.
-
-
- ---------------------
-
-
- LIST OF VICEROYS OF INDIA SINCE THE TRANSFER
- OF THE ADMINISTRATION FROM THE EAST INDIA
- COMPANY TO THE CROWN IN 1858.
-
- VISCOUNT CANNING, to 1862
- March,
-
- EARL OF ELGIN, 1862-3
-
- SIR JOHN LAWRENCE, 1864-9
-
- EARL OF MAYO, 1869-72
-
- LORD NORTHBROOK, 1872-6
-
- LORD LYTTON, 1876-80
-
- MARQUESS OF RIPON, 1880-84
-
- EARL OF DUFFERIN, 1884-88
-
- MARQUESS OF LANSDOWNE, 1888-94
-
- EARL OF ELGIN, 1894-99
-
- LORD CURZON OF KEDLESTON, 1899-1905
-
- EARL OF MINTO, 1905-1910
-
- LORD HARDINGE, 1910
-
-
- ---------------------
-
-
-NOTE (I).—Many of the artistic and other objects mentioned in the
-preceding pages can be better appreciated after a visit to the Indian
-Museum at South Kensington.
-
-NOTE (II).—The thanks of the Committee are due for a few of the slides
-to Colonel Frederick Firebrace, R.E., Managing Director of the Great
-Indian Peninsula Railway Company, and to Mr. A. L. Hetherington, of the
-Board of Education.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
- ● Transcriber’s Notes:
- ○ Additional line spacing has been added before paragraphs with side
- notes to make more room for the them.
- ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
- ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
- ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
- when a predominant form was found in this book.
- ○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);
- text that was bold by “equal” signs (=bold=).
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's Eight Lectures on India, by Halford John Mackinder
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-
-Project Gutenberg's Eight Lectures on India, by Halford John Mackinder
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Eight Lectures on India
-
-Author: Halford John Mackinder
-
-Release Date: October 9, 2020 [EBook #63420]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EIGHT LECTURES ON INDIA ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
-https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
-generously made available by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
-<div class='figcenter id001'>
-<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
-</div>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c000' />
-</div>
-<div>
- <h1 class='c001'><span class='c002'>THE VISUAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE<br />OF THE COLONIAL OFFICE.</span></h1>
-</div>
-<hr class='c003' />
-<div class='sans'>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c000'>
- <div><span class='c004'>EIGHT LECTURES ON INDIA.</span></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-<hr class='c005' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c006'>
- <div><span class='c002'><i>PREPARED FOR THE COMMITTEE</i></span></div>
- <div class='c000'><span class='small'>BY</span></div>
- <div class='c000'><span class='c007'>H. J. MACKINDER,</span></div>
- <div class='c000'><i>Lately Director of the London School of Economics and Political</i></div>
- <div><i>Science: Author of “Britain and the British Seas.”</i></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c003' />
-<div class='blackletter'>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c000'>
- <div><span class='c008'>With Lantern Illustrations.</span></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-<hr class='c009' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c010'>
- <div><i>ONE SHILLING NET.</i></div>
- <div class='c006'>WATERLOW &amp; SONS LIMITED, PRINTERS, LONDON WALL.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><span class='small'>1910.</span></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_ii'>ii</span>480 Slides, 60 for each Lecture, have been prepared in
-connection with this book, and are sold on behalf of the
-Committee by Messrs. Newton &amp; Co., 3, Fleet Street,
-London, E.C., from whom the books of lectures can also
-be obtained. The complete set of 480 Slides, in eight
-padded boxes, may be had for £50, or the Slides to
-accompany the several Lectures will be sold for Six
-Guineas each Lecture. Single Slides will not be sold.
-The series consists for the most part of views taken
-by Mr. A. Hugh Fisher, the artist who went to India
-for the purpose on behalf of the Committee. Some of them
-are photographs coloured by hand from sketches in colour
-prepared by Mr. Fisher, and some are colour photographs
-by the Sanger Shepherd process reproducing Mr. Fisher’s
-own sketches. There are also many maps in colour
-prepared by the Diagram Company.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c010'>
- <div><b>The slides of this series are copyright.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c014' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><span class='small'><i>ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL.</i></span></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c015'>
- <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_iii'>iii</span><span class='xlarge'><b>THE VISUAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE.</b></span></div>
- <div class='c000'><span class='large'>APPOINTED BY THE SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES.</span></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c016' />
-<p class='c017'><span class='sc'>The Right Honourable The Earl of Meath</span>, K.P., Chairman.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>The Right Honourable Sir Cecil Clementi Smith</span>, G.C.M.G.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>Sir John Struthers</span>, K.C.B., LL.D., Secretary to the Scotch Education Department.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>Sir Philip Hutchins</span>, K.C.S.I., late Member of the Council of the Secretary of State for India.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>Sir Charles Lucas</span>, K.C.M.G., C.B., of the Colonial Office.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>Sir Charles Holroyd</span>, Director of the National Gallery.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>H. F. Heath</span>, Ph.D., Director of Special Inquiries and Reports, Board of Education.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>H. J. Mackinder</span>, M.P., late Director of the London School of Economics and Political Science.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>W. H. Mercer</span>, C.M.G., Crown Agent for the Colonies.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>R. D. Roberts</span>, D.Sc., Secretary of the Gilchrist Educational Trust.</p>
-<p class='c018'><span class='sc'>Professor Michael E. Sadler</span>, LL.D., Professor of Education in the University of Manchester.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c015' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_v'>v</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>THE<br /><span class='xxlarge'>VISUAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE</span><br /><span class='xlarge'>OF THE COLONIAL OFFICE.</span></h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c003' />
-<p class='c020'>The component parts of the British Empire are so
-remote and so different from one another, that
-it is evident the Empire can only be held together
-by sympathy and understanding, based on widely
-diffused knowledge of its geography, history, resources,
-climates, and races. It is obvious that if this knowledge
-is to be effective it must be imparted to the
-coming generation. In other words it must be taught
-in the Schools of the Empire.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>In the Autumn of 1902, a Committee was appointed
-by the Secretary of State for the Colonies to consider
-on what system such teaching might best be developed.
-The Committee came to the conclusion that children
-in any part of the Empire would never understand
-what the other parts were like unless by some
-adequate means of visual instruction; and, further,
-that as far as possible the teaching should be on the
-same lines in all parts of the Empire. It was decided
-to make a beginning by an experiment on a small
-scale, and for this purpose to invite the three Eastern
-Colonies of Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and
-Hong Kong to bear the expense of a small book of
-Lantern Lectures on the United Kingdom for use in
-the Schools in those Colonies. Other parts of the
-Empire were afterwards invited to have editions which
-would be suited to their own special requirements
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_vi'>vi</span>prepared at their own expense, and up to the present
-date editions have been issued for the Eastern Colonies,
-for the West Indies, for West Africa, for Mauritius,
-and for India. Editions are now in preparation for
-Canada and for South Africa.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Committee, however, have always had in mind
-the preparation of illustrated lectures on the Colonies
-and India as well as on the United Kingdom. Their
-experience convinced them that if this part of the
-work were to be done as well as it could be done,
-it was advisable to have the illustrations prepared
-on a uniform system by a highly skilled artist or
-artists specially commissioned for the purpose.
-They were so fortunate as to interest in their work
-Her Majesty the Queen (then Her Royal Highness
-the Princess of Wales), and through her powerful and
-gracious support, and that of Lady Dudley and a
-Committee of ladies who were good enough to collect
-a sum of nearly £4,000 for the purpose, they have
-been able to make a beginning of a work which will
-take some years to complete. The Committee desire
-to record their warm gratitude to Her Majesty, to
-Lady Dudley, and to the Committee of ladies for
-making this part of the undertaking possible.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The lectures contained in the present little volume
-are the first instalment of the work undertaken in
-connection with the Queen’s Fund. The Committee’s
-artist, Mr. A. Hugh Fisher, has travelled through
-India collecting material for the illustrative lantern
-slides. His sketches and photographs have been
-reproduced partly by the ordinary process in black
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_vii'>vii</span>and white, and partly by the Sanger Shepherd
-method in colour photography. Some of the slides
-have been coloured by hand after Mr. Fisher’s instructions.
-A series of maps has also been included, in
-order that the lessons of the lectures may be driven
-home.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The text of the lectures has been prepared at the
-request of the Committee by Mr. H. J. Mackinder,
-who has based his work on information placed at his
-disposal from many sources. The Committee believe
-that he has succeeded in presenting in their relative
-importance and proportion all the chief facts essential
-to the popular understanding of His Majesty’s Indian
-Dominions. It is, of course, obvious that no account
-confined within the narrow limits of the present
-lectures, of so wide and varied an Empire as that of
-India, can give a completely accurate picture of all
-the many important facts and questions that are
-referred to; but in order to reduce to a minimum
-the chance of giving misleading impressions,
-Mr. Mackinder has had the advantage of suggestions
-from several eminent authorities on the subject, and
-in this connection the Committee desire especially
-to thank Sir Walter Lawrence, Sir William
-Lee-Warner, Sir Theodore Morison, Sir Thomas
-Holdich, Sir William Bisset, Sir Philip Hutchins,
-Mr. G. W. Forrest, C.I.E., and others.</p>
-<div class='c021'>MEATH,</div>
-<div class='c021'><i>Chairman of the Visual</i></div>
-<div class='c021'><i>Instruction Committee</i></div>
-<p class='c022'><span class='sc'>London</span>,</p>
-<p class='c023'><i>August, 1910</i>.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_viii'>viii</span></div>
-<div class='sans'>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c010'>
- <div><i>Publications of the Visual Instruction Committee, issued on</i></div>
- <div><i>behalf of the Committee by Messrs. Waterlow &amp; Sons Ltd.</i></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'><b>A.</b> Seven Lectures on the United Kingdom,</p>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>By Mr. <span class='sc'>H. J. Mackinder</span>.</div>
- <div>In the following Editions:—</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c025'><b>1. Eastern Colonies Edition, Sept., 1905.</b></p>
-<p class='c026'>In use in Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and Hong Kong.</p>
-<p class='c025'><b>2. Mauritius Edition, June, 1906.</b></p>
-<p class='c026'>In use in Mauritius.</p>
-<p class='c025'><b>3. West African Edition, Sept., 1906.</b></p>
-<p class='c026'>In use in Sierra Leone, the Gold Coast, and Southern Nigeria.</p>
-<p class='c025'><b>4. West India Edition, Sept., 1906.</b></p>
-<p class='c026'>In use in Trinidad, British Guiana, and Jamaica.</p>
-<p class='c025'><b>5. Indian Edition, March, 1907.</b></p>
-<p class='c027'>In use in the following Provinces:—Madras, Bombay, Bengal,
-the United Provinces, the Punjab, Burma, Eastern Bengal
-and Assam, the Central Provinces, the North West
-Frontier Province, and British Baluchistan.</p>
-<p class='c028'><b>6. Indian Edition for use in the United Kingdom,
-Jan., 1909.</b> Price One Shilling net.</p>
-<p class='c029'><b>Canadian and South African Editions are being
-prepared by direction of the Governments of
-the Dominion of Canada and of South Africa.</b></p>
-<div class='sans'>
-
-<p class='c024'><b>B.</b>—Eight Lectures on India. August, 1910.</p>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c000'>
- <div>By Mr. <span class='sc'>H. J. Mackinder</span>.</div>
- <div class='c000'><span class='small'>Price One Shilling net.</span></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_ix'>ix</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>CONTENTS.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-<table class='table0' summary=''>
-<colgroup>
-<col width='25%' />
-<col width='62%' />
-<col width='12%' />
-</colgroup>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class='c032'>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class='c033'><span class='small'> PAGE.</span></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture I.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—Madras—the Hindu Religion</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture II.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—Burma—the Buddhist Religion</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_19'>19</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture III.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—Bengal—the Monsoons</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_35'>35</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture IV.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—The United Provinces—the Mutiny</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture V.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—Bombay—the Marathas</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture VI.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—Rajputana—the Feudatory States</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_82'>82</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture VII.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—Delhi-the Muhammadan Religion</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_95'>95</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c031'><span class='sc'>Lecture VIII.</span></td>
- <td class='c032'>—The Northwest Frontier—the Sikhs</td>
- <td class='c033'><a href='#Page_114'>114</a></td>
- </tr>
-</table>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<p class='c034'><span class='pageno' id='Page_x'>x</span><i>NOTE.—It is considered undesirable to overload this
-book with footnotes, and, therefore, this general acknowledgment
-is made of the indebtedness of the writer to various
-standard authors of whose works use has been made and
-quotations from which have in some cases been given.</i></p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c015' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE I.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>MADRAS.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE HINDU RELIGION.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'>India is an empire within an empire. There are four
-hundred million people in the British Empire, and of these
-three hundred million are in India. Though it is known
-by a single short name, India must not be compared with
-countries such as France and Germany. As regards both
-area and population it is the equal of half Europe, that half
-which includes all the countries except Russia. It is a
-land of many languages, some of them spoken by as many
-people as speak German or French. It is a land of several
-religions, differing more deeply than the sects of Europe
-It is, in short, a world in itself, of ancient civilisation, yet
-as the result of a wonderful modern history there is to-day
-peace from end to end of it, for though the systems of
-government are very different in different parts, yet everywhere
-the rulers, whether British officials or native princes,
-acknowledge the sovereignty or the suzerainty of His Imperial
-Majesty King George the Fifth.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of Journey,
-London to Colombo.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-India lies one quarter way round the
-globe, or ninety degrees eastward from
-Britain. It is placed wholly in warmer
-latitudes than Europe, for the northernmost
-point of India is almost precisely in
-the latitude of the southernmost point of Europe. It
-occupies the same latitudes as the great western wing of
-Africa. If lifted bodily northward and placed upon the
-map of Europe, it would extend from Gibraltar, past Spain,
-France, and Britain to a point beyond the Shetland Isles.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'><span class='pageno' id='Page_2'>2</span>The British Empire in India was won, organised, and
-defended in the days before steam. Access to it was
-possible only by sailing ship round the Cape of Good Hope,
-by an ocean path, that is to say, more than ten thousand
-miles long. The voyage took several months. To-day the
-British official, and soldier, and merchant go from London
-to Bombay, and the Indian student comes from Bombay to
-London in a fortnight. As we see on the map, the route is
-by rail to Dover, across the Straits of Dover, and by rail again
-through France to Marseilles. There the traveller joins the
-steamer which has carried a cargo, probably of cottons and
-machinery, through the Bay of Biscay. From Marseilles the
-track is through the two Straits of Bonifacio and Messina to
-the entry of the Suez Canal at Port Said. Here the mails are
-put on board, which have come through the Italian
-peninsula to Brindisi, and thence by rapid steamer. Thus
-it is only from Port Said through the Canal and the Red
-Sea to Aden that the vessel carries her complete burden—mails
-and passengers, and cargo. The redistribution
-commences at Aden. Our steamer happens to be bound,
-not for Bombay, but for Colombo and Australia, and the
-Indian mails and passengers are transferred at Aden to
-a local steamer, which crosses to Bombay.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>From London to Colombo and Bombay is the naval high
-street of the British Empire. At Gibraltar, Malta, and
-Aden, where the waterways narrow and enemies might
-obstruct, are British garrisons and naval stations. Even the
-Suez Canal is partly owned by the British Government. A
-generation ago shares in that great undertaking were purchased
-by the United Kingdom for four million pounds
-sterling. To-day the British shares in the Canal are valued
-at more than thirty millions sterling, and each year a profit
-of more than a million pounds is paid into the British
-Exchequer. There is a garrison of British troops also in
-Egypt.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Colombo is one of the chief centres of communication in
-the world. Some day, when the Dominions beyond the
-seas have grown to be as rich and as populous as Britain
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span>herself, the way through the Mediterranean, to-day all important,
-will be reckoned as one of several equal threads of
-imperial power. Other great streams of traffic, India-bound,
-will then converge upon Colombo from the Cape in the
-southwest, from Australia in the southeast, and by way of
-Singapore from Canada in the east.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Map of the
-Indian Seas.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Colombo is, however, not in the
-technical sense Indian. It is the chief
-city of the beautiful island of Ceylon,
-which is about as large as Ireland. The
-Governor of Ceylon writes his despatches
-home not to the Secretary of State for India but to
-the Secretary of State for the Colonies, for Ceylon is
-a Crown Colony, not a Province of the Indian Empire.
-We will, therefore, leave Ceylon to be studied at some
-other opportunity, and will take the steamer which in a
-night crosses the Gulf of Manar to Tuticorin, on the
-Indian coast opposite.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>As we lie in our bunks that night, while the ship ploughs
-the water in the dark, let us realize to what point on the
-vast surface of the globe we have travelled. A hundred
-miles away to east of us are the mountains of Ceylon,
-rising some eight thousand feet above the level of the ocean.
-A hundred miles to west is Cape Comorin, the southernmost
-point of India, lying eight degrees north of the
-Equator. Let us not be deceived by the apparent smallness
-of space on the maps which we use—those eight degrees are
-nearly equivalent to the length of Great Britain.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>From Cape Comorin two coasts diverge, the one known
-as the Malabar Coast northwestward for a thousand
-miles, the other known as the Coromandel Coast
-northward and then northeastward for a like distance.
-The surf of the Arabian Sea beats on the Malabar
-Coast, that of the Bay of Bengal on the Coromandel
-Coast. Both the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal open
-broadly southward to the Indian Ocean, for the great Indian
-Peninsula narrows between them to a sharp point at Cape
-Comorin.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-Map of
-Southern India.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The interior of the Indian Peninsula is for the most
-part a low plateau, known as the Deccan, whose western
-margin forms a steep brink overlooking the Malabar Coast.
-From the top of this brink, called the Western Ghats, the
-surface of the plateau falls gently eastward to a second
-lower brink, which bears the name of
-Eastern Ghats. Between the Eastern
-Ghats, however, and the Coromandel
-Coast there is a broad belt of low-lying
-plain, the Carnatic. Thus India presents a lofty front to
-the ship approaching from the west, but a featureless plain
-along the Bay of Bengal, where the trees of the coastline
-appear to rise out of a water-horizon when seen from a
-short distance seaward.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-Approaching
-Tuticorin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We wake at the dawn of the equatorial
-day which comes almost suddenly at six in
-the morning. There is bustle on board,
-for the launch is alongside which is to
-carry us ashore. The ship is riding in a yellow, turbid sea,
-and the land is distant some miles to the west, a low dark
-line along the horizon. At one point are white buildings,
-which gleam in the increasing light. We cross the broad
-shoal, and gradually the detail of the coast separates into a
-rich vegetation of trees, and a city whose most prominent
-object is a cotton factory with tall chimneys—strange
-reminder at the very threshold of our journey that we are
-entering a land which is in process of economic change.
-The United Kingdom underwent such a change a century
-ago, when spinning and weaving were removed from the
-cottage to the steam-driven factory.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Nearer approach
-to Tuticorin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-India is a land of cotton. The very
-name calico is derived from Calicut, a
-town on the Malabar Coast, which was a
-centre of trade when Europeans first came
-over the ocean. Lancashire now sends cotton fabrics to
-India, and the Lancashire power-looms compete seriously
-with the finer work of the hand looms of India. But India
-manufactures great quantities of her own coarser cottons,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>and such a mill as this at Tuticorin is doing more than
-Lancashire to change the occupations of the Indian
-people. The beautiful silks, however, worn by the better-to-do
-women of India are still manufactured by hand loom.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Landing at
-Tuticorin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-The Bazaar,
-Tuticorin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-Spinning Mill at
-Tuticorin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-Ducks at
-Tuticorin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We land. Dark gesticulating figures
-surround us, scantily clad in white cotton.
-The morning sun casts long shadows, but
-there is a throng of people, for the work
-of India is done in the cool of the morning. The express
-train to Madras is waiting, but we have a short time for
-that first stroll, which leaves so deep an impression on the
-traveller setting foot in a new land.
-Tuticorin is a remote provincial city, a
-Dover or a Calais, on the passage from
-Ceylon. Here is a picture of its little
-bazaar with dark people in flowing white robes; there is
-a country cart in the street—ox-drawn.
-Next we have a nearer view of the spinning
-mill with a half-naked workman in the
-foreground. Under the shade of these
-leafy trees is a flock of ducks for sale.
-At every turn we see something characteristic,
-and must ask questions.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 3.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We leave Tuticorin and travel for a hundred miles across
-the plain. It is a barren-looking country and dry, though at
-certain seasons there is plentiful rain, and
-crops enough are produced to maintain
-a fairly dense population. Far down on the western horizon,
-as we journey northward, are the mountains of the Malabar
-Coast, for in this extremity of India the Western and Eastern
-Ghats have come together and there is no plateau between
-them. The mountains rise from the western sea and from
-the eastern plain into a ridge along the west coast whose
-summits are about as high as the summits of Ceylon, that is
-to say some 8,000 feet. A group of small hills, isolated on
-the plain, marks the position of Madura, a hundred miles
-from Tuticorin. Madura is the seat of one of the finest
-temples in the land.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-Plan of a South
-Indian Temple.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-A Hindu temple in Southern India
-usually consists of a square building rising
-through several stories which grow gradually
-smaller. It is thus pyramidal in
-form, and is adorned with tiers of thronged sculpture.
-Within is a cell containing the image. The temple itself
-is surrounded by square and walled enclosures, one
-without the other; the great gateways through the successive
-walls are the chief glories of southern architecture.
-Though often larger than the central shrine, they are
-not unlike it in general appearance, but rectangular
-in plan, not square. They rise story above story to a
-summit ridge and are rich with thousands of sculptured
-figures. These great gateways are known as gopuras.
-In the courtyards enclosed between the successive walls are
-the homes of the priests, and usually a large water tank and
-a hall of a thousand columns. Some of these temples are
-very wealthy foundations.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-The Tank of the
-Golden Lilies,
-The Temple, Madura.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-The Temple, Madura.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-A Gopura at Madura.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here we have the tank of the Golden
-Lilies in the Temple of Madura, surrounded
-by a colonnade, with gopuras rising
-from beyond; and here another view in
-the same temple, and here a gopura
-photographed from near.</p>
-<p class='c024'>Hinduism is in its essence a spiritual religion. Western
-thought instinctively takes for granted the reality of outward
-things. Eastern thought instinctively takes for granted the
-reality of the “soul” or inward life. In the cosmology of
-the West there are two worlds, the natural and the supernatural;
-in the East the soul is the only real existence.
-The world-soul, or soul of Universal Nature, is God, and
-this Divine Soul is the supreme and fundamental reality;
-by comparison with it all outward things are shadows.
-Eternity is a vital aspect of reality. The present existence
-of the soul is not more certain than its pre-existence and its
-future existence. The present life is always brief and fleeting,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>but the past began and the future will end in eternity.
-Issuing from the Universal Soul and passing through æons
-of what may be called prenatal existence, the soul at last
-becomes individualised and enters on a career of conscious
-activity. Far from being dependent on the body, the soul
-takes to itself the outward form which it needs and deserves,
-and the body dies when it is deprived of the vitalising
-presence that animated it. The destiny of the soul is
-determined by its origin. It issued from the Universal
-Soul, and into the Universal Soul, its source, it must
-eventually be re-absorbed, though it may pass through
-innumerable lives on its way to the goal of spiritual
-maturity. “As it nears the goal the chains of individuality
-relax their hold upon it; and at last, with the final
-extinction of egoism, with the final triumph of selflessness,
-with the expansion of consciousness till it has become all-embracing—the
-sense of separateness entirely ceases, and
-the soul finds its true self, or, in other words, becomes
-fully and clearly conscious of its oneness with the living
-whole.” Such, in a few words, is the inner faith of the
-East.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The religious books of India are written in Sanskrit, the
-tongue of Aryan conquerors who came into India across
-the northwestern mountains nearly two thousand years
-before Christ. The Aryans brought with them the
-worship of the powers of nature, the “devas,” or
-bright ones. From the Rig-Veda, or collection of hymns
-to various gods, which were composed for the worship of
-the Aryans during the earliest centuries of their dwelling
-in India, we learn something about these deities. Some
-were simply forces of nature, such as Father Heaven,
-Mother Earth, the Dawn Goddess, the Sun God, and the
-Wind God. With other deities new trains of ideas became
-connected that tended to obscure their original character.
-The Fire God, for instance, personified the fire of sacrifice
-and domestic use, the atmospheric fire of lightning, and
-sometimes even the sun. Thus he became the priest,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>mediating between man and the gods. Similarly Varuna,
-who at first apparently typified the open sky, whose eye is
-the sun, subsequently grew into a mighty guardian of the
-laws of nature and morality. This earliest age of
-Hinduism, the age to which the Rig-Veda belongs, is
-known as the Vedic Age, and the gods of this age were
-worshipped with sacrifice. In the Vedic period Aryan
-society probably divided itself into the soldier-yeoman and
-the priest. The soldier and yeoman, desirous of winning
-the goodwill and active assistance of the gods of the sky
-and earth, would hire the priest, who thus came to be
-regarded as the master of the rites which cajole or constrain
-the invisible powers. As the Aryans extended their sway
-over India, the influence of the Brahmans or priests
-increased, and in their hands religion underwent a
-profound change. Personal worship gave way to
-ecclesiastical ritualism. The idea of sacrifice as a means
-of compelling the gods grew to an enormous degree,
-and the welfare of the world was imagined to depend
-upon ritual, the key to which was in the hands of the
-Brahmans.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>There was, however, another side to this religious
-development. Even in the Vedic Age, while the popular
-mind was imagining a deity in every startling natural
-phenomenon, there were thinkers who discovered behind
-all the “devas,” or gods, the one Supreme Power, the
-Creator, Ruler, and Preserver of all things, the Divine Soul
-of which we spoke just now. This Supreme Power, who
-became known as Brahma, is not only the real self of the
-whole Universe, but also, as we have seen, the real self of
-each individual soul. The one Supreme Power could,
-however, only be discovered after a severe moral and
-intellectual discipline, and those who had not yet discovered
-it were allowed to worship lower gods. In one of the
-Hindu Scriptures the Supreme Lord is represented as
-saying: “Even those who worship idols worship me.” No
-one can have any conception of Hinduism unless he
-realises that throughout it there runs a wide distinction
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>between the popular faith and the philosophical faith
-which underlies it. This distinction continues to this day.
-Countless gods are still worshipped in India, but the few
-still hold and always have held that all gods to whom
-worship is offered are but names or masks of the Supreme
-Lord of the Universe.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The two principal gods of Modern Hinduism are Vishnu,
-the Preserver, and Siva, the Destroyer and Recreator; but
-they are worshipped under many different attributes.
-These two gods came into prominence after the Vedic Age,
-and their cults have passed through many phases; but a
-large number of Hindus still belong to sects which are
-called by their names. The sect to which a Hindu belongs
-is indicated by a coloured mark, erroneously described
-as a caste mark, made on the forehead. Brahma, Vishnu,
-and Siva are sometimes regarded as three persons of a
-Trinity.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Animals are still sacrificed in certain parts of India, and
-in honour of certain gods, but the doctrine of the
-transmigration of souls, and the teaching of various
-religious reformers, of whom Buddha is best known, has
-tended in the direction of humanity to all creatures; and
-the great majority of Hindus are unwilling to take life,
-and abstain from animal food. The cow is to all Hindus
-an object of veneration.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>An elaborate mythology is connected with the Hindu
-religion, and the incidents of this mythology form the
-basis of Hindu sacred art, especially of the rich sculpture
-of the temples. Siva rides Nandi the Bull, and Vishnu
-rides Garuda the Eagle. Vishnu in some of his avatars,
-or incarnations, takes the form of a fish or of a man-lion,
-or for vast numbers of his followers he becomes Rama,
-the hero of the epic poem the Ramayana, or he is
-Krishna—another hero-God. Siva has a wife Kali, who
-is terrible, though at other times she is Parvati, the
-goddess of beauty; and Siva has sons, of whom one is
-Ganesh, with a fat human body and an elephant’s head.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-A Marriage
-Procession,
-Trichinopoly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-A Group of
-Brahmans.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Religion goes deep into the life of the
-Indian. It governs all his social relations.
-Here is a street at Trichinopoly, a hundred
-miles north of Madura. There happens
-to be the spire of a Christian church in the background.
-In the foreground is a temple elephant, heading a marriage
-procession. In white paint on the elephant’s head
-is the sect mark of the contracting parties. The Hindu
-community is divided not only in sects but also into
-castes, which are sternly separated, so that
-a man may not marry into another caste,
-or even eat with those of a lower caste.
-The tradition is that originally there were four castes;
-first the Brahmans, or priestly stock; then the Kshattriyas,
-or soldiers, the royal stock; third, the Vaishiyas, or merchants;
-and fourth, the Sudras, or artisans, labourers and
-agriculturists. But all these castes became sub-divided, and
-there are now more castes than callings.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-Processional Car,
-Trichinopoly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-A curious characteristic of Hinduism is the mixture of
-the squalid and crude with the grandeur of an architecture
-which in some respects is unsurpassed in the world. Not
-merely are the maimed and the beggars importunate in the
-temple passages, as in the church entries of Roman Catholic
-countries, but in every vacant corner of the outer courts of
-the temples are established little tradesmen. The properties
-of religious ceremony are often decrepit
-and tawdry. Here, for instance, we have
-a wooden processional car, rough roofed,
-awaiting the annual ceremony amid the
-live-stock of the yard. These warm-natured Southern people
-have the child’s power of making believe, and can worship the
-doll even when battered out of all recognition. They easily
-let loose the imagination and give devotion to the spirit
-embodied in a shapeless stone as sincerely as to that in the
-most finished allegorical sculpture.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-Arch of Welcome to
-Prince of Wales,
-Trichinopoly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-It is this sense of the spiritual and the allegorical in all
-things that makes the Indian so ready for loyal devotion
-to the person of the ruler. Here at Trichinopoly we
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>have a triumphal gateway erected in
-honour of the visit to India of the
-Prince and Princess of Wales, which
-still bears the words “Glorious Welcome
-to our Future Emperor.” The Prince and Princess are
-now the Emperor and Empress. With us the gateway
-would have been demolished when it had served its
-immediate purpose. Here it remains, as does the memory
-of the visit. Ceremony rises in India to the rank of an
-historical event.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-The Main Bazaar
-Street,
-Trichinopoly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-The Tank and
-the Rock,
-Trichinopoly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-The Same—another
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-The Rock temple,
-Trichinopoly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the distance through the archway
-is the Rock of Trichinopoly which we
-approach nearer by the main bazaar of the
-town, and then, nearer still, we come to the
-tank which lies beneath the Rock. Amid
-the water is a pagoda or shrine. In the
-foot of the Rock itself there is excavated a
-temple. Such rock temples are frequent
-in India, perhaps because rock is less
-costly to carve where it lies undisturbed
-than it is to quarry and to remove and to
-build and to carve.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-Trichinopoly,
-looking east from
-the top of the Rock.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-Trichinopoly,
-looking south from
-the top of the Rock.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-The Bull Nandi,
-Tanjore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-The Fort, Tanjore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-The Temple,
-Tanjore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-Police drilling on
-the Maidan,
-Tanjore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span></p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Here we have views from the summit of the Trichinopoly
-Rock, looking eastward over the city, and
-then southward over the roof of the great
-temple to the tank and the Christian
-Church. Bishop Heber died at Trichinopoly.
-In each aspect we see the unbroken
-plain which surrounds the City.
-Do you notice the Bull Nandi as an
-ornament along the edge of the roof of the
-temple? Here we have him again carved
-from a great block of granite at Tanjore,
-a place not far from Trichinopoly. Other
-scenes at Tanjore follow. One shows us
-the wall of the Fort with the moat outside,
-and the gopura of the Great Temple.
-Another is a vista within the temple walls,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>and gives some idea of the great spaces
-which the larger temples occupy. Then
-suddenly we become conscious of one of
-the sharp contrasts which characterise the
-India of to-day. These are Police drilling
-on the Maidan, or public place of Tanjore,
-and away on the horizon are the semaphores
-of the railway.</p>
-<p class='c024'>In the plain of the Carnatic, which surrounds Madura,
-Trichinopoly, and Tanjore, we are not merely in the midst
-of the Hindu religion and caste system, but we are also near
-scenes rendered memorable by the struggle for India, a
-hundred and fifty years ago, between the French and the
-English. Two trading companies, the one seated in London
-and the other in Paris, obtained leave from the local princes
-to establish trading posts on the Coromandel Coast. They
-presently fortified these posts and became ambitious rivals.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 3.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-At this time there was a disputed succession
-in the Carnatic State, and the English
-supported one aspirant for the throne of the Nawab, the
-French another. The Nawab of the English party was
-besieged in the Fort of Trichinopoly by the French and
-their Nawab. To effect a diversion, a young Captain, Robert
-Clive, in the British company’s service, seized the Fort of Arcot,
-a hundred miles to the north, and by a prolonged heroic
-resistance to the siege which gathered round him, succeeded
-in relieving the pressure on Trichinopoly. That Captain
-Clive became Lord Clive, Baron of Plassey, the founder of
-the British Empire in India. He went out as a writer or
-clerk in the service of the East India Company, and
-rose to be Governor of Bengal.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>It must be remembered, however, that in the time of Clive,
-no less than to-day, the number of the British in India
-was surprisingly small. As we saw just now, the Police, a great
-force, are not British but Indian, and the Indian army, though
-with British officers, is twice as numerous as the British
-garrison. The British have organised the peace and unity
-of India, rather than conquered it in the ordinary sense.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'><span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>The life of the white man in India is governed by the
-seasons. Here in the south the temperature is at all times
-high, though the heat is never so great as in the hot season
-of northern India. On the other hand there is no cool
-season comparable with that of the north. In most parts
-of India, however, there are five cool months, October,
-November, December, January, and February. March,
-April, and May are the hot season. The remaining four
-months constitute the rainy season, when the temperature is
-moderated by the presence of cloud, but the moisture is trying
-to the European constitution.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-The Nilgiris, near
-Ootacamund.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In all parts of India the white population
-seeks periodical relief by a visit to the
-hills. Here in the south the favourite
-hill station is Ootacamund, in the Nilgiri
-Hills. It is scattered over a wide space, with the bungalows
-in separate compounds or enclosures.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-Ootacamund,
-The Bazaar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Ootacamund,
-General View.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Ootacamund.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 3.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-“Ooty,” as it is familiarly called, stands
-some seven thousand feet above the
-sea in the midst of a country of rolling
-downs rising yet another thousand feet.
-This lofty district forms the southern
-point of the Deccan plateau where the
-Eastern and Western Ghats draw together.
-A deep passage, twenty miles broad, known
-as the gap of Coimbatore or of Palghat,
-lies through the Ghats, immediately south
-of the Nilgiri Hills, from the eastern plain
-to the Malabar Coast. Other hills, equally
-high, lie southward of the gap and extend
-to Cape Comorin. We saw these last hills to our left hand
-as we travelled northward from Tuticorin to Madura.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-On the Railway to
-Ootacamund.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The railway from the east coast goes
-through the Gap of Coimbatore to the
-Malabar cities of Cochin and Calicut, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>from this railway a mountain line has been
-constructed up into the Nilgiri heights.
-We have here a succession of striking
-views on this mountain line. It is a rack
-and pinion railway, up which the train is
-worked on the central rail.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-The Drug in the
-Nilgiri Hills.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-There are magnificent landscapes at the
-edge of the Nilgiris, where the mountains
-descend abruptly to the plains. This view
-was taken from a point called Lady
-Canning’s seat. It shows the Drug, from the top of which
-prisoners of war used to be thrown, in the days of the
-tyranny of Hyder Ali and Tippu Sultan, the Mohammedan
-sovereigns of Mysore, of whom we shall hear more presently.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-Tea Plantation,
-Nilgiri Hills.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-Hill Tribe,
-Nilgiri Hills.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-Toda People,
-near Ootacamund.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The vegetation of the heights is
-naturally different from that of the lowlands,
-and the cultivation of the Nilgiris
-is chiefly tea and cinchona, from the
-latter of which crops quinine is prepared. Amid the great
-forests of the slopes large game is
-numerous, such as sambur, or Indian elk,
-and tiger. Here also tribes of savage
-peoples have survived through all the
-centuries of history practically untouched
-by the civilization of the plains. One of
-these tribes, the smallest but the most
-interesting, are the Todas, who number
-less than a thousand, but have their own strange, unwritten
-language.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 3.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-Madras from the
-Sea.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-The High Court,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-St. Mary’s Church,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-The Law College,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-Y.M.C.A. Building,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Northward of the group of temple cities, and eastward
-of the Nilgiris and of the plateau country of Mysore, on the
-low coastal plain is the great city of
-Madras, four hundred miles from our
-landing place at Tuticorin. Like the other seaports of
-modern India, Madras has grown from
-the smallest beginning within the European period.
-Its nucleus was Fort St.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>George, built to shelter the office and warehouse of
-the East India Company, in the time when Charles I.
-was king of England. To-day Madras has half a million
-people, and magnificent buildings in the European style.
-We have here a view looking northeastward
-over a corner of Fort St.
-George, and across the public grounds,
-to the High Court of Justice, whose lofty
-tower serves the purpose of a lighthouse for ships approaching
-the port. To the right of the High Court in the
-distance are the buildings round the
-harbour. Next we have St. Mary’s Church,
-standing within Fort St. George, the
-oldest British church in India, though
-the present structure was erected to replace an earlier church.
-And here we have the Law College, which
-stands beside the High Court, and close
-to it the building of the Young Men’s
-Christian Association. There are many
-Christians in southern India among
-the natives, indeed more than in any
-other part of the Indian Empire, although even here they are
-but a small minority. One Christian community on the
-Malabar coast is of the Nestorian sect, who came to India
-many centuries before the sea route was opened round
-the Cape.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-Madras Bank.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-The People’s Park,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-Banyan Tree.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Madras has a Corporation much after the European
-plan, and is a clean, well drained
-city with many public amenities. Here,
-for instance, is the electric tramway in
-front of the Madras Bank. Here we have
-a view in the People’s Park, with a group
-of sambur within an enclosure. One of the
-most remarkable and typical of ornamental
-trees in India is the banyan, with drooping
-branches, whose suckers take root when
-reach the ground, giving the effect of
-a grove, though in fact but a single tree.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-Banyan Avenue.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here is a banyan tree seen from without
-and from within, and here a banyan
-avenue at Madras.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-Grain Sellers,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-Men ploughing,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-Covered Bullock
-Cart, Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Before leaving Madras, let us look at
-three scenes of native life. Here are
-grain sellers, and here, outside the city,
-are men ploughing. Here we see the
-typical covered bullock cart.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-Map of India,
-distinguishing
-Madras, Mysore,
-Cochin, and
-Travancore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-Coffee Planters,
-Coorg.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Lastly, let us consider the map, and
-learn what part of India is ruled from
-Madras and Ootacamund. We have in the first place,
-coloured red, the territory of the Presidency
-of Madras, which is ruled directly
-by the Governor and his Council. In purple
-are shown the important native state
-of Mysore, separated from both coasts
-by British territory, and the two little
-native states of Travancore and Cochin
-along the Malabar Coast southward to
-Cape Comorin. Mysore is directly under
-the general supervision of the Government
-of India, but Travancore and Cochin are under that of the
-Government of Madras. Beside Mysore is the diminutive
-territory of Coorg, no larger than the County of Essex, in
-England. But Coorg has a certain importance for the
-growth of coffee. Here we have a group of native coffee
-planters.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 3.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Then we look again at the map in which the lowlands were
-shown green and the uplands brown. We
-see the plain from Tuticorin to Madras
-city. We see the southern end of the
-Deccan plateau, with the state of Mysore
-upon it, and the Nilgiri hills at its extremity. We have
-the lowland passage of Coimbatore, to which we
-referred in describing Ootacamund, and south of this afresh
-the hills extending to Cape Comorin. The native states of
-Cochin and Travancore are on the westward descent from
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>these southernmost hills. Note again how the railways
-take advantage of the lowland passages, especially the line
-from Madras leading westward to the Malabar Coast.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Cauvery flowing eastward over the plateau is the
-most considerable river of Southern India. As it descends
-the Eastern Ghats it makes great falls, and these have
-been harnessed, as the phrase is, and made to supply
-power which is carried electrically for nearly a hundred
-miles to the Kolar goldfield, within the Mysore boundary.
-The engineer who superintended the construction of this
-work was a French Canadian officer of the Royal Engineers—interesting
-evidence of the increasing solidarity of the
-British Empire.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Bangalore is the chief military station of southern India.
-It is connected by rail with Madras, but is situated on
-the plateau within Mysore. From Bangalore the line
-runs on to Seringapatam on the Cauvery, and to Mysore
-city beyond. These were the seats of the Muhammadan
-Sultans, Hyder Ali and Tippu, father and son, who, a
-generation later than the time when Clive fought at Arcot,
-held Madras in terror from their highland fastness. The
-threat to the British position in India was a real one.
-Hyder Ali leagued himself with the French, with whom
-we were then at war, but he was defeated under the great
-Governor-General, Warren Hastings. Tippu, Hyder’s son,
-was also an ally of the French. He lived into the time of
-Napoleon, and made his chief attack on British power
-when the French were in Egypt, but he was defeated
-and killed. Colonel Wellesley, afterwards Duke of
-Wellington, first rose to notice in this campaign. He was
-appointed to command “the troops above the Ghats.”
-After the death of Tippu, the civil administration of Mysore
-was also assigned to Wellesley, and splendid work he did
-as civil administrator.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-Southern India,
-showing rainfall of
-S.W. Monsoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-Pykara Falls,
-Nilgiri Hills.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-Gairsoppa Falls.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-A third map shows you the rainfall
-which is brought by the west winds
-of the summer time to the Malabar
-Coast. These winds strike the Western
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>Ghats and the Nilgiri hills and drench
-them with superabundant moisture, so
-that they are thickly forested. At this
-season magnificent waterfalls leap down the westward
-ravines and feed torrents which rush in
-short valleys to the ocean. One of the
-grandest falls in the world is at Gairsoppa,
-in the northwestern corner of the state of
-Mysore.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-Southern India,
-showing rainfall
-of N.E. Monsoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-Southern India,
-showing density
-of Population.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-A fourth map indicates the rainfall
-on the east coast brought by the
-Northeast Monsoon of the winter
-season. Finally, a fifth map shows
-that the population is densest down on
-the lowlands precisely in those regions,
-on the east coast and on the west,
-which are best supplied with moisture.
-Throughout India the supply of water for agricultural
-purposes is the key to the prosperity of the country, for
-everywhere there is heat enough for luxuriant vegetation.
-It is only drought which is in places the cause of sterility.
-With all its vast population there are none the less great
-spaces in India very sparsely peopled. Once more let us
-remember that India is rather a continent than merely a
-country.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE II.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>BURMA.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE BUDDHIST RELIGION.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of India,
-distinguishing
-Burma.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the last lecture we visited Madras, the southernmost
-and oldest province of the Indian Empire. In this lecture
-we will cross the Bay of Bengal from Madras to Burma,
-the easternmost and newest of the provinces, if we except
-a recent sub-division of an older unit. Politically, Burma
-is a part of India, for it is ruled by the
-Viceroy, and commercially it is coming
-every day into closer relation with the
-remainder of India. In most other
-respects, however, Burma is rather the first land of the Far
-East than the last of India, the Middle East. In race and
-language probably, in religion and social customs certainly,
-it is nearer to China than to India. Geographically,
-however, though placed in the Indo-Chinese peninsula
-beyond the Bay of Bengal, Burma is in relation with the
-Indian world, for it has a great navigable river which drains
-into the Indian Ocean, and not into the Pacific as do the
-rivers of Siam and Annam, the remaining countries of the
-southeastward promontory of Asia.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-The Shore,
-Madras.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-In Madras
-Harbour.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We embark from Madras on the
-steamer which is to carry us to Rangoon.
-Formerly it was necessary to go out to the
-vessel through the surf in specially constructed boats, for all
-the Coromandel Coast is shoal, and there is not a single
-natural harbour. Often the surf is very rough. Now,
-however, a harbour has been made at Madras. Two
-piers have been built out into the sea at right angles
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>to the shore. They may be seen in the distance in this
-view. At their extremities they bend inward towards one
-another, so as to enclose a quadrangular space within which
-the steamers lie. None the less there are times when the
-mighty waves sweep through the open
-mouth, rendering the harbour unsafe, so
-that the shipping must stand out to sea.
-There have been many terrible disasters in the cyclones
-which from time to time strike the east coast of India.
-When the Madras harbour was half completed the works
-were overwhelmed by a storm and the undertaking had
-to be recommenced.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-Coolies
-on Steamer.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Our vessel carries nearly two thousand coolies, natives
-of Madras, going to Burma to work in the rice mills or on
-the wharves, for Burma is a thinly peopled land. It has
-great natural resources, which are being
-rapidly developed by British capital. The
-coolies take passage as deck passengers
-for a few rupees, and each on landing at Rangoon has
-to undergo a searching medical examination, because the
-Plague is often carried from Madras to Burma. The
-disease manifests itself first by swollen glands, especially
-under the arms. The contagion, caused by a minute
-organism, is conveyed by rats. This terrible sickness
-is one of the worst scourges of modern India. It first
-broke out in Bombay in August, 1896. Since that
-date there have been three years in each of which a
-million deaths were due to it. As time goes on the
-mortality will probably decrease, for the first onslaught
-of a new disease is generally deadly. We must beware,
-however, of exaggerating its significance. There are three
-hundred million people in the Indian Empire, and the
-death rate by plague, even at its maximum, is therefore
-not very high. It is, indeed, low as compared with the
-death rate by malarial fever.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Chinese Junk in
-the Rangoon River.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-After a probably rough passage, we approach the low-lying
-shore of the great delta of the Irawaddy river, and
-enter that branch of it which is known as the Rangoon river.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>A stray Chinese junk reminds us of the
-fact that we are entering Indo-China, and
-of the trade relations of Burma with
-Singapore and the regions of the Far East.
-Burmese rice is sent to China, the Malay States, India,
-East Africa, and Europe. Rangoon depends for her
-commerce mainly on the rice harvest. In recent years,
-famines in India have been mitigated by rice exported
-from Rangoon.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Map of Burma.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-As we steam up the river for some miles inland, let us
-consider, with the help of a map, the main
-features of the geography of the land which
-we are about to visit. In this map is
-shown nearly the whole of the great southeastward peninsula
-of Asia. The areas which are coloured green are
-lowland, those which are yellow are upland, and the brown
-signifies highland and mountain. A ridge of highland,
-broken only at two or three points, runs southward through
-the centre of the map, separating Burma and the river basins
-of the Indian Ocean from Siam and the river basins of the
-Pacific Ocean. This great divide of the drainage is
-continued beyond the southern edge of the map through
-the Malay Peninsula for some distance. It ends near
-Singapore in the southernmost point of Asia, only one
-degree north of the Equator.</p>
-<p class='c024'>In Burma, parallel with the dividing range, are three
-other ridges, striking southward side by side. These
-separate three valleys, through which flow severally the
-Salween, Sittang, and Irawaddy rivers. The valley of the
-Salween, as the yellow and brown colours upon the map
-indicate, is less deeply trenched between its bounding
-ranges than are the other two valleys. As we should therefore
-expect, the Salween river has a steeply descending
-course broken by rapids, and is of small value for navigation.
-At its mouth is the port of Moulmein. The valley of the
-Sittang, which is a short river, prolongs the upper valley of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>the Irawaddy, which latter river makes a great westward
-bend at Mandalay, and passes by a transverse passage
-right through one of the parallel mountain ridges.
-Beyond this passage it bends southward again, accepting
-the direction of its tributary, the Chindwin river.
-The great port of Rangoon is placed on a tidal channel at
-the eastern edge of the Irawaddy delta. The railway from
-Rangoon to Mandalay runs through the Sittang valley and
-does not follow the Irawaddy. There is navigation, however,
-by the Irawaddy past Pagan and Mandalay northward
-to Bhamo, which is close to the Chinese frontier. The
-coastal plain of Burma is known as Arakan where it runs
-northward from the Irawaddy delta, and as Tenasserim
-where it runs southward from that delta along a coast beset
-with an archipelago of beautiful islands. The delta itself
-bears the name of Pegu, or Lower Burma; while the
-region round Mandalay is Upper Burma.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-Plan of Rangoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We are in the Rangoon river. A tall, pointed pagoda
-appears on a hill to the right, and presently,
-as the channel bends to the west, we
-approach the busy commercial front of
-Rangoon city, surmounted by the golden spire of the great
-Shwe Dagon Pagoda.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-Shwe Dagon
-Pagoda, from
-across the Royal
-Lakes.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-The Shwe Dagon
-Pagoda, Rangoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-Images of the
-Sitting Buddha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-Earning Merit at
-the Shwe Dagon
-Pagoda.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Rangoon, apart from its chief Pagoda, is a modern city.
-Fifty years ago it was a village. To-day it has a quarter of
-a million people. A wharf-fronted road, the Strand,
-follows the shore of the main river for several miles. Up
-the Pegu tributary to the east for several other miles
-are many rice mills with tall chimneys throwing out black
-smoke. The harbour is busy with shipping. There are great
-timber yards, and there are oil mills, for the products of
-Burma are, first and foremost, rice, and then timber,
-especially great logs of teak—harder than oak, and then
-petroleum. Back from the Strand is a well kept town,
-with broad streets at right angles, though as yet there are
-few really impressive buildings to compare with the public
-buildings of Madras. There is a beautiful group of lakes,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>the Royal Lakes, set in wooded public grounds, and
-across these is the finest view of the
-Shwe Dagon Pagoda, like a great hand-bell
-placed on a low hill. This pagoda is
-said to be the most frequented in the
-Buddhist world, for it has as relics eight hairs of Gautama,
-the founder of the Buddhist religion. It began some two
-thousand years ago as a small village fane. In successive
-ages the original structure has been encased afresh and
-afresh, until as the result of work done in the days of
-Queen Elizabeth, the great pagoda was completed which is
-now the glory of Rangoon. It rises to a height of nearly
-400 feet, and is solid, there being no chamber within.
-The brickwork of which it is built makes a series of steps
-or ledges, so that it would be possible to climb for some
-distance up the spire. The whole is plated with gold-leaf,
-and the gilding is constantly renewed by pious devotees, who
-thus earn merit. The word “Shwe” in the name of this
-pagoda signifies golden. On the summit is a “hti,” or
-umbrella, of exquisite workmanship and material. It is
-said to have cost sixty thousand pounds. In the vane are
-5,000 gems—diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The base of
-the pagoda is surrounded first by shrines of varying sizes, and
-then by a flagged courtyard, which again is fringed with
-canopies and halls opening towards the pagoda, with many
-carved screens and arches, and innumerable shrines and
-altars, and images of Gautama. Flights of steps roofed over
-with teak descend from the courtyard, and
-one of the lower entries is guarded by great
-grotesque figures, partly lion and partly
-griffin, made of plastered bricks. We see
-one of them in this view. Then we have
-two very interesting pictures: the one
-represents three images of the Sitting
-Buddha from one of the shrines on the
-flagged courtyard at the foot of the Shwe
-Dagon Pagoda, and the other shows a
-pilgrim “earning merit” by putting gold
-leaf on to the pagoda itself.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-The Sule Pagoda,
-Rangoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-There is another considerable pagoda
-in the city, the Sule Pagoda. We have
-it here, with a corner of a building adjacent
-of European architecture, the Municipal Offices. Observe
-the watering of the streets by hand labour.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-A Typical Burman.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-Burmese Gambling,
-Rangoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Burmese are a short, sturdy people, merry and
-happy, and akin rather to the Japanese in temperament
-than to the people of the Indian Peninsula. The features of
-their faces are obviously Mongolian. They have the oblique
-eyes of the Chinaman. Here is a typical
-Burman with a rose coloured wrap round
-his head. The Burmese women, whose
-praises have been sung through the world, are dainty and,
-according to a more or less Chinese standard, not infrequently
-beautiful. They love to clothe themselves in silks
-of brilliant and delicate hue. Excessive industry is certainly
-not a failing of the race, yet there are no poor. We have
-here a group of Burmese gamblers at
-Rangoon. The theatres play all night
-and the spectators go home by daylight.
-The “pwe,” or show, consists invariably of three parts—a
-prince, a princess, and a clown; it may be compared with
-our traditional harlequinade. Both Indians and Chinese
-are migrating to Burma in great numbers, but agricultural
-work is still chiefly in native hands.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-Elephants lifting
-Teak.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-Elephants Pushing
-Teak.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-Tusker Elephant.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-Tusker Elephant
-lifting Teak.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-One of the most curious and typical
-sights of Rangoon is that of elephants
-manipulating the great logs of teak wood
-in the timber yards. The logs are cut in the forests
-of the north of Burma, and are floated for hundreds
-of miles down the Irawaddy in large rafts, until they are
-stranded at a creek near Rangoon, called Pazundaung.
-Elephants are then employed for the purpose of moving and
-piling up the logs. The male elephant is very powerful
-and has strong tusks, on which he carries the logs, preventing
-them from falling with his trunk, but the female elephants
-are not so strong, and do not as a rule lift the logs
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>off the ground, but merely drag them, or push them
-with the head. We have here two
-cow elephants, the one forty years old and
-the other seventy. We have them here
-again, one of them at the command of
-her rider pushing the logs forward with
-her head. In the next scene is a
-male elephant with tusks. He is fifty
-years old, and we realise his power in the
-next two views, where we see him poising
-on his tusks a great tree trunk. These huge
-animals are fed entirely on a grass which
-grows along the banks of the Irawaddy
-not far from Rangoon. Machinery is now taking the
-place of elephants in the timber yards, and Rangoon is,
-therefore, likely to lose one of its most interesting sights.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-A Rice Mill,
-Rangoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-While we are on the river front let us
-glance also at a rice mill, where a process
-equivalent to thrashing is carried out, the
-grain being separated from the husk.
-The black smoke is from the paddy husks
-used to supply the motive power of the mill. Paddy, or
-unthrashed rice, is mostly brought to Rangoon by water,
-though more than a million and a half tons now come
-annually by rail. After the milling process is complete, the
-rice is packed into bags for shipment all over the world.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-A Burmese
-Railway Train.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We will take train and run by the
-Burmese Sittang Railway over the broad
-levels of the delta, passing through fields
-from which the paddy has recently been
-cut. Only the ears are lopped off, and the straw is burnt as
-it stands. The Burmans are mostly yeomen, each owning
-his cattle and doing his own work in the field.
-Beyond Pegu we follow the Sittang River, with hill
-ranges low on the eastern and western horizons, until we
-come to Mandalay, once capital of the independent kingdom
-of Upper Burma. This kingdom was annexed to
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>India in 1885 at the conclusion of the third Burmese war.
-Mandalay is the last of three capitals a few miles apart,
-which at different times in the past century have been the
-seat of the Burmese kings. Amarapura, a few miles to
-the south, was the earliest, and Ava, a few miles to the
-west, was the capital from 1822 to 1837.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-The 450 Pagodas
-from
-Mandalay Hill.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-At Mandalay we are again on the banks of the Irawaddy.
-There is a hill in the northern suburbs several hundred feet
-in height, from which we may look over the city. The houses
-are so buried in foliage that, seen from the height, the place
-appears almost like a wood of green trees. The square
-Dufferin Fort, with walled and moated boundary, and
-sides more than a mile in length, is distinguishable in
-the centre, but for the rest there is none of the ordinary
-panorama of a European city. One
-striking feature, however, lies at our feet,
-a little to one side. It is a square
-group of 450 white pagodas, with a more
-considerable gilded pagoda in the centre. Beside each
-of these pagodas there stands a large stone, and on these
-stones are inscribed quotations from the sacred books of
-the Buddhists. In the distance to the southeast are the
-hills inhabited by the Shan tribes.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-The Moat, Fort
-Dufferin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-King Thebaw’s
-Palace.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-The Aindaw
-Temple, Mandalay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-Maker of Temple
-Htis, Mandalay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Dufferin Fort was built around the Palace of King
-Thebaw, the last of the Burmese dynasty. It is enclosed by a
-square of red walls pierced by three gates on each side, each
-gate bearing a pointed pagoda-like super-structure.
-Without there is a broad moat,
-a hundred yards wide, with lotus plants,
-floating in it like water lilies. This moat
-is crossed by five wooden bridges. Inside
-the walls is the King’s Palace, of which we
-have here the spire, surmounted by a “hti”
-finial. This spire is called by the Burmese
-the “Centre of the Universe,” since it is in the
-centre of Mandalay, which they claim as in the centre of the
-world. A “hti” we may observe again at
-the summit of the great Aindaw Temple
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>in the south of Mandalay, and here we
-have one before it has left the home of its
-maker.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-The Queen’s
-Palace.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-The Verandah of
-King Thebaw’s
-Palace.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Entrance to the
-Arakan temple,
-Mandalay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We return to the Fort, and to the
-palaces within it. This is the Queen’s
-Palace, a very beautiful building of gilded
-teak, exquisitely carved, and here is the
-verandah where King Thebaw in 1885
-surrendered to the British generals. He was taken away
-to India, and there he still lives under surveillance on
-the Malabar Coast. Here we have the
-entrance to the Arakan Temple, specially
-venerated by Buddhists, for it contains
-a great image of Gautama, over twelve feet high, made of
-brass. Pilgrims gain merit by placing gold leaf upon this
-figure. This is the building which Kipling spoke of as
-the Moulmein Pagoda; it is not, however, a pagoda, which
-is a solid spire, but a temple.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Sappers
-and Miners,
-Fort Dufferin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-Crossing the Moat,
-Fort Dufferin.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-A Garrison
-Family.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Burma has been gradually annexed to India as the result
-of three successive wars. The first ended in 1826, and then
-the low-lying coastal strips known by the names of Tenasserim
-and Arakan were taken, and also the great valley of the
-Brahmaputra, known as Assam. In 1852 the country of
-Pegu, or Lower Burma, comprising the delta of the Irawaddy,
-was annexed, but Upper Burma round Mandalay remained
-independent. The last king of Mandalay was Thebaw, a
-notorious tyrant, guilty of the most horrible atrocities.
-Being anxious to maintain his independence, he intrigued
-with the French in the lands of Tonkin and
-Annam to the east of Burma, and as a result brought
-upon himself the conquest of his country in the time
-when Lord Dufferin was Viceroy of India. It took fully
-ten years to reduce Burma to order, for the land was
-infested with dacoits or robbers, as it is still in some of the
-remoter districts. Every village in those days was defended
-by a palisade. Here we have two views of a
-party of troops in Fort Dufferin, with the
-King’s Palace in the background, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>then a family scene in the married
-quarters of the garrison. The Burman
-does not make a good soldier, for he has
-very little sense of discipline. Even the
-police of the province are for the most part
-Gurkhas, Sikhs, and Punjabi Musulmans.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-The Bazaar,
-Mandalay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-The Flower and
-Seed Market,
-Mandalay Bazaar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Bazaar or market of Mandalay,
-as in every other Indian city, is the
-centre of public life. Externally it is
-of little interest, having been constructed
-since the conquest, but internally it is
-an epitome of the varied peoples who
-have thronged of late into the growing
-centres of Burmese trade. Here is a
-scene in the fruit market; but it is the
-silk market which delights the Burmese lady, who will
-be seen there accompanied by her maid, making
-purchases and enjoying the touch of more than she
-buys, as in similar places in Europe. The most striking
-contrast which is presented by Burma to one accustomed
-to Indian life is the freedom of the women, who move
-about unveiled. In Burma, under the Buddhist religion,
-we have neither seclusion of women nor the distinctions
-of caste. The city of Mandalay has a population of about
-190,000, so that it is now smaller than the upstart Rangoon.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-Ferryshaw Siding,
-near Mandalay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-Mora.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-Katha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us make a voyage up the Irawaddy to the border of
-the Chinese Empire. This is a river scene
-a short way above Mandalay, with a group
-of white pagodas conspicuous on the bank,
-and here is a village scene. There follows
-a view at Katha, a large straggling
-village on the Irawaddy, remarkable for
-its many pagodas, most of them ruined.
-The majority of the Burmese pagodas are thus dilapidated
-for the reason that there is considered to be no merit in
-merely restoring an existing Buddhist shrine. The wealthy
-devotee prefers therefore to erect a new pagoda. The Shwe
-Dagon is an exception, for it contains sacred relics.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-Raft on the
-Irawaddy.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-On the Irawaddy.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-In the defile
-between
-Katha and Bhamo.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-Burmese Children.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-Cart with solid
-Wheels.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-Lacquer Workers.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here we have a raft of bamboos and
-teak logs floating down the river, and then
-a typical river craft with a great oar for a
-rudder. Our steamer must progress with
-care, measuring the depths with bamboo
-poles at either bow. None the less, navigation
-extends for more than nine hundred
-miles from the sea. From Mandalay to
-Katha the bank of the river is in most places
-low and sandy, but between Katha and
-Bhamo there are striking defiles, where the
-ground rises with wooded fronts from the
-water’s edge. There is population along the
-banks the whole way, as is evidenced by
-the pagodas amid the vegetation. Here
-are three little Burmese villagers, and then
-a rustic cart with solid wheels, and here
-a picture showing the process of the
-famous lacquer work of Burma. A “shell”
-is first made of very thin and finely plaited bamboo, and
-this is covered with a pigment which, when dry, is softened
-on a primitive lathe. Then red lacquer is put on by hand,
-and the bowl is dried in the sun. When dry it is buried
-for some days in order that it may harden. Finally it is
-engraved, and often inlaid with gold.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-Bhamo from the
-Irawaddy.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-China Street,
-Bhamo.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-Kachin Women,
-Bhamo.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-Houses at Bhamo.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We approach Bhamo, at the head
-of the Irawaddy navigation, lying low
-along the bank of the river, twenty
-miles from the Chinese frontier. There
-are naturally many Chinese at Bhamo.
-This is China Street. Here, on the
-other hand, is a group of Kachin women,
-heavy-faced, in picturesque costume. The
-Kachins are the hill tribes of the northern
-frontier of Burma, as the Shans are of
-the eastern frontier and the Chins of
-the western. Until quite recently the
-Kachins often raided the caravans passing from Bhamo to
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>China. They are now becoming civilised under British
-rule. The Burmese people proper, of ancient civilisation,
-are a relatively small population confined
-to the valley and the delta. Here we see
-a row of houses at Bhamo, raised high
-upon piles. The change which has come over Burma
-since the British occupation may be appreciated from the
-fact that twenty years ago it was no uncommon sight on
-the voyage up from Katha to Bhamo to see along the river
-banks, and on rafts floating down the river, the dead bodies
-of Kachins who had been tortured to death under the
-terrible rule of the kings of Mandalay.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-The Gokteik Gorge
-and Bridge.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-Native House,
-Hsipaw.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-The Bazaar,
-Hsipaw.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-From Mandalay a railway runs eastward
-into the Shan country. At one point this
-line crosses a gorge by a steel bridge,
-nearly half a mile long and over 800 feet
-above the water of the stream. The bridge
-is so light in design that its great size and
-real solidity are difficult to grasp. Beyond
-this bridge we come to the chief place of the Shans,
-Hsipaw. Here are a couple of scenes in Hsipaw, the one
-of a Shan house, the other of a Shan market.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-The Ananda
-Temple, Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-The Ananda
-Temple, nearer
-view of the west
-side.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-Buddha Image at
-Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-To realise the antiquity and the splendour of early
-Burmese civilisation, we must descend the Irawaddy below
-Mandalay to a place called Pagan. There,
-for some ten miles beside the river, and
-for three miles back from its bank, are the
-ruins of a great capital which flourished about the time of
-the Norman Conquest of England. From the centre of
-the ruined city it is impossible to point in any direction
-in which a pagoda or a temple is not visible. We have
-here a general view of the remains, and
-then the Ananda Temple, seen in the
-midst of a bank of vegetation, from which
-at various points rise other smaller red and white ruins.
-The Ananda Temple was built more than eight hundred
-years ago by the Thatons, the original inhabitants of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>country, who were overcome by the invading Burmans. Some
-thirty thousand of these Thatons were brought to Pagan as
-slaves, and set to build the pagodas and temples, just as
-during the captivity in Egypt the Israelites were employed
-in building the pyramids. Here is the
-Ananda Temple close at hand, white and
-glittering in the sunshine, as though built
-of sugar. If we enter the great portal—there
-are three other portals similar, for
-the plan of the building is that of a cross—we
-find facing us a huge image of the
-Buddha, over ten yards in height.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Buddhism was developed from Hinduism. It originated
-as a revolt from the excessive ritualism of the Brahmans.
-We have seen that Hinduism became an all-embracing
-system of religious ritual and social organisation, but that
-alongside, as it were, of this process there was evolved a
-philosophical system based upon two theories: the belief in
-a Universal Soul as the centre of reality, and the belief in
-the ultimate identity of the Individual and the Universal Soul.
-In the sixth century before Christ India was seething and
-fermenting with spiritual thought. A great teacher was
-called for, and such a one was given to the world in
-Gautama, the Buddha, that is to say, the Enlightened or
-Awakened One.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Gautama was born on the frontiers of Nepal at the foot
-of the great Himalaya range about the year 557 before
-Christ. He was the only son of a chief or king. At the
-age of eighteen he was married to the daughter of the chief
-of a neighbouring clan, and a son was born to him. But
-the yearnings of a reformer were stirring within Gautama,
-and he could not rest. So one night in secret he left his
-wife and infant and went out into the world a wanderer in
-search of “that inward illumination on ‘great matters,’ which
-was the cherished dream of every thinker in that memorable
-era.” He followed to no purpose the paths of metaphysical
-speculation, of mental discipline, and of ascetic rigour, and
-at last on one eventful night, as he sat under the Bodhi Tree
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>at Gaya, in Behar, “he reaped the fruit of his long spiritual
-effort, the truth of things being of a sudden so clearly
-revealed to him that from henceforth he never swerved for
-a moment from devotion to his creed and to the mission
-that it imposed upon him.”</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The truth which Buddha discovered and preached to
-humanity was that the salvation of man lay not in sacrifices
-and ceremonial, nor in penances, but in spiritual effort and
-a holy life, in charity, forgiveness, and love. The sages of
-Hinduism had taught as a doctrine for the few that the
-Universal Soul is the only reality, and is therefore the real
-self of every man. Buddha gave to the world a system by
-which the truth of this doctrine could be realised in the life
-of an ordinary man.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The four-fold truth on which Buddha’s whole scheme
-hinges may be expressed as follows:—Life on earth is full of
-suffering; suffering is generated by desire; the extinction
-of desire involves the extinction of suffering; the extinction
-of desire, and therefore of suffering, is the outcome of a
-righteous life. But how is desire with the suffering which
-it generates to be extinguished? The answer of Buddhism
-is that the eightfold path which leads to the extinction of
-suffering is by “Right Belief, Right Thought, Right Speech,
-Right Action, Right Effort, Right Means of Livelihood,
-Right Remembrance and Self-discipline, Right Concentration
-of Thought.” In Buddha’s system, as he himself
-gave it to the world, doctrines and beliefs are of
-secondary importance. Fully alive to the truth that “what
-we do, besides being the outward and visible sign of our
-inward and spiritual state, reacts naturally and necessarily
-on what we are, and so moulds our character and controls
-our destiny,” he formulated for his followers a simple
-system of moral rules, obedience to which would set them
-on the path which leads to salvation. On this path there
-are successive stages, and each of these stages is marked
-by the breaking of some of the fetters which bind man to
-earth and to self, and when all the fetters are at last broken
-then the Holy One, as he is now called, has reached his
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>goal. In other words, he has attained to that state which
-Buddhists call Nirvana, a state of “perfect knowledge,
-perfect love, perfect peace, and therefore of perfect bliss.”</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Buddhist system emphasises the importance of
-education and discipline. All over Burma there are schools
-conducted by Buddhist monastic orders at which instruction
-is gratuitously given to boys in the vernacular of the
-country, and one rarely finds a native of Burma who
-cannot read and write his own language. It is also part of
-the religious discipline of every Burman boy that he should
-become a novice in a monastic order and live for a time the
-life of a monk. The aim of this training is to teach
-obedience and self-control, and thus in these days of change,
-when strange and disintegrating influences are at work in
-the East, the Burman retains, to a certain extent at all
-events, his simplicity and his kindly faith. To appreciate
-the influence of Buddhism in Burma let us remember that
-a Buddhist priest is supported entirely by gifts in kind, and
-never touches a coin.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>For some centuries Buddhism made great progress in
-India, the land of its birth; but in the end Hinduism
-re-asserted itself, and to-day there are very few Buddhists
-in India proper, though in Burma nearly all the people are
-of that faith. This is the chief cause of the difference
-in almost every respect between Burma and India. In the
-Ananda Temple, as we have seen, there are four images of
-Buddha, for it is the tradition of the religion that before
-Gautama there were in former ages of the world three
-other teachers who reached enlightenment and were therefore
-called Buddha.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-The Wilderness of
-Bricks, Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-Gadawpalin
-Temple, Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-Vultures on a
-ruined Temple
-at Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-Cactus at Pagan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 6.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here, still at Pagan, is the so-called
-Wilderness of Bricks, with the Ananda
-Temple in the distance to the right.
-Then we have the entry to one of the other
-temples, and then yet another Pagan ruin
-with vultures on the summit. Finally we
-have a scene of tall cactus growth, also at
-Pagan, for this city stands in what is
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>known as the Dry Belt of Burma. The
-map shows us that two ranges of mountains
-extend northward, respectively to
-east and west of the Irawaddy valley.
-The winds of summer and autumn blow from the southwest,
-from the sea, bringing moisture which falls in heavy
-rains on the west sides of the mountains and over the delta.
-At Rangoon there is an annual rainfall of over one hundred
-inches, or more than three times the rainfall of London. To
-the east of the western range, however, as we leave the delta
-on our journey up the river, there is a low-lying district near
-Pagan, which is screened from the sea winds by the continuous
-mountain ridge, and here the rainfall is small, as little as
-twenty inches in the year, but the climate is hot and
-evaporation is rapid. In this district, therefore, cactus is
-the typical vegetation, but elsewhere in Burma are rich
-crops or the most luxuriant forests of leafy trees. These
-forests supply the teak wood, which is floated down
-the river. They are full of game, and the haunt of
-poisonous snakes. Wild peacocks come from the woods
-to feed on the rice when it is ripe, and tigers are not
-unknown in the villages. Only a few years ago a tiger was
-shot on one of the ledges of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in
-the midst of Rangoon.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Notwithstanding the age of some of its temples and
-pagodas, Burma is in the main a new country, in which
-Nature is still masterful. It is the largest of the provinces
-under the Government of India, but all told it contains but
-ten million people—Burmese, Chinese, Hindus, and the
-Hill Tribes.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE III.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>BENGAL.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE MONSOONS.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of Bengal.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-From Burma we take steamer again and cross the sea to
-Bengal, the Metropolitan Province of India. The heart
-of Bengal is one of the largest deltas
-in the world, a great plain of moist
-silt brought down by the rivers Ganges
-and Brahmaputra from the Himalaya mountains. But along
-the borders of the Province, and especially to the west,
-much hill country is included.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The map shows to the north the high tableland of Tibet,
-edged by the Himalaya range, whose southern slopes
-descend steeply, but with many foot hills, to the level,
-low-lying plains of the two great river valleys. Eastward of
-Bengal there is a ridge, rising to heights of more than
-six thousand feet, densely forested, which separates the
-Irawaddy valley of Burma from the plains of India. This
-ridge throws out a spur westward, which near its end rises
-a little into the Garo hills. The deeply trenched narrow
-valley of the Brahmaputra, known as the Assam Valley,
-lies between the Garo hills and the Himalayas. Away in
-the west of Bengal is another hill spur, bearing the name of
-Rajmahal, which forms the northeastern point of the
-plateau of Southern India. The Ganges flows through the
-plain bounded southward by this plateau and northward
-by the Himalayas. A broad lowland gateway is left between
-the Garo and the Rajmahal hills, and through this,
-on either hand, the Brahmaputra and Ganges rivers turn
-southward and converge gradually until they join to form
-the vast Megna estuary. The country which lies west of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>the Megna is the Ganges delta, traversed by many minor
-channels which branch from the right bank of the river
-before it enters the Megna. East of the Megna is another
-deltaic land whose silt is derived in the main from the Garo
-hills. It is said that the highest rainfall in the world
-occurs in these hills, when the monsoon sweeps northward
-from the Bay of Bengal and blows against their southern
-face. The rainfall on a single day in the rainy season is
-often as great as the whole annual rainfall of London.
-Little wonder that there is abundance of silt for the formation
-of the fertile plains below.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The approach to the coast, as may be concluded from
-this geographical description, presents little of interest. As
-you enter the Hooghly river, the westernmost of the deltaic
-channels, you see broad grey mud banks, with here and
-there a palm tree. From time to time, as the ship passes
-some more solid ground, there are villages of thatched huts
-surrounded by banana plantations with tall broad green
-leaves.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Approaching
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-Coolie Emigrant
-Ship on the Hooghly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-The Hooghly at
-Calcutta, showing
-the High Court.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Calcutta, the chief port and capital of India, is placed no
-less than eighty miles up the Hooghly, on
-the eastern bank. As we approach it
-we pass mills and factories with tall
-chimneys throwing out black smoke.
-A steamer crosses us, outward bound,
-carrying, as we are told, coolies going
-to work in South Africa; for the basin of the Ganges,
-unlike Burma, is one of the most densely peopled lands in
-the world, and sends forth annually some thousand
-emigrants. At last we find ourselves
-amid a throng of shipping, and our
-steamer ties up to a buoy in the turbid
-river, with the great city of Calcutta on
-the eastern bank, and the large industrial
-town of Howrah on the western bank,
-and not a hill in sight round all the
-horizon, only the great dome of the Post
-Office rising white in the sunshine.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Plan of Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-Palm Avenue,
-Calcutta Botanical
-Gardens.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us examine the plan of this mighty
-city with more than a million inhabitants,
-second in the Empire in population, and
-one of the twelve largest towns in the world. The
-Hooghly flows southward. On its eastern bank
-stands Fort William, a fortress which with its outworks
-occupies a space of nearly a thousand acres. Around, to the
-north, the east, and the south of the fort, is a wide green
-plain, the Maidan, separating the fort from the city. From
-north to south the Maidan extends for some two miles,
-and it is about a mile broad from east to west. In its
-southern end is the racecourse, where are held at
-Christmas time the races, the principal social event of
-Calcutta life. To the east of the Maidan is the European
-quarter, with its hotels, and clubs, and private
-houses. To the north, in a garden, is Government
-House, the residence of the Viceroy of India. Beside
-Government House, and also facing the Maidan, are the
-High Court of Justice and the Town Hall. Behind
-Government House is Dalhousie Square, occupied by a
-green, in the centre of which is a large tank. Facing this
-square is the Bengal Government Secretariat, between
-which and the river are the Post Office and the Customs
-House. Away to the north is the great native city. One
-bridge only connects Calcutta with the industrial town of
-Howrah, where are jute mills and great engineering
-works. In Howrah also is the terminus of the East Indian
-Railway. A hundred years ago Howrah was but a small
-village; to-day it contains some 160,000 people. Finally to
-the south of Howrah on the west bank of the river are the
-celebrated Botanical Gardens, containing
-many great palms, and most notable of all a
-banyan tree whose circumference measures
-nearly a thousand feet. North of Calcutta,
-and on the east bank of the Hooghly, is Barrackpur,
-with the country house of the Viceroy of India. There is a
-military cantonment at Barrackpur, and also a garrison in
-Fort William.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-The Howrah Bridge,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-Scene from the
-Howrah Bridge.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Nothing impresses the stranger in Calcutta more than the
-density of life in this populous city, the focus of a great and
-fertile province. At no spot is it more
-evident than on the Howrah Bridge,
-where from morning to night a close
-throng crosses and re-crosses. From the
-approach to the bridge we look down
-on a crowd bathing in the muddy but
-sacred water. Cheek by jowl with the
-busy commercial traffic of the bridge, we
-have here the religion of the East. Purified by the bath,
-and clothed again, the bather sits in the crowd while for a
-few pies, or say a farthing, his sect mark is painted afresh
-on his forehead.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-Calcutta from
-Howrah across
-the Hooghly.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The buildings of Calcutta are worthy of the capital rank
-of the city, but they are of European
-design, for Calcutta is a modern city.
-Fort William was so named from King
-William III., in whose reign, little more
-than two centuries ago, Job Charnock, a factor or commercial
-representative of the East India Company, bought
-the little village Kalikata, probably so named from a local
-shrine of the goddess Kali. There he built, on the site of
-the present Customs House, the first Fort William. Within
-ten years the population had grown to some ten thousand,
-and it has never ceased growing to this day, although at one
-time, in the middle of the eighteenth century, there was an
-episode in the history of the place which for a time somewhat
-checked its advance. Suraj-ud-Daulah, the Nawab of
-Bengal, quarrelled with the English at Fort William, and
-finally attacked them. Most of them escaped down the
-river, but a hundred and forty-six were taken prisoners when
-Fort William fell, and were confined for a night in a small
-cell measuring 22 feet by 14 feet, and some 18 feet high. It
-was at the end of the hot season, and only twenty-three of the
-prisoners came out alive the next morning. This tragedy
-is known in history as the Black Hole of Calcutta. Soon
-afterwards Colonel Clive, the same Clive who as a Captain
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>defended Arcot in the south of India, arrived with reinforcements
-and recaptured Calcutta. Fort William was
-rebuilt on a larger scale, and in a position a little south
-of the original site.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Suraj-ud-Daulah quarrelled with the East India Company
-again, and Clive led an army against him into the north of
-Bengal, and defeated him and his French allies in the famous
-battle of Plassey. The British force amounted to only three
-thousand men, of whom but two hundred were English,
-whereas the Nawab had an army of nearly forty thousand.
-In 1765 the whole of Bengal was annexed by the East India
-Company, and from 1772 was ruled from Calcutta.
-Suraj-ud-Daulah’s capital had been at a place called
-Murshidabad, a hundred miles to the north of Calcutta.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-Black Hole
-Monument,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-The Marble Pavement,
-Black Hole,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here, at the corner of Dalhousie
-Square, is the Black Hole Monument,
-erected by Lord Curzon when Viceroy
-of India, in the year 1902, upon the site of the original
-monument which was set up by one of
-the twenty-three survivors; and here is a
-marble pavement marking the exact
-position of the Black Hole.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-Bengal Government
-Office,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-The High Court,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-Eastern Gateway,
-Government House,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-Government House,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-Imperial Museum,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We have next the great red brick
-building in Dalhousie Square known as
-the Bengal Secretariat. Not far away
-are the public offices of the Government
-of India, but most of the staff are
-removed to Simla in the hills during the hot and rainy
-seasons. Here, facing the Maidan, is the frontage of the
-Supreme Court of Justice, with a fine
-tower nearly two hundred feet high,
-which we saw just now from the Hooghly.
-Next is the eastern gateway to the
-grounds of Government House, and here
-is Government House itself, with the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>Union Jack flying above it, and Indian
-sentries on guard. It was built a little
-more than a hundred years ago, and contains
-the throne of Tippu Sultan, the tyrant
-of Mysore, of whom we heard in the first lecture. Opposite
-Government House, on the Maidan, is
-the Jubilee Statue of Victoria, the Queen-Empress
-of India, which was unveiled
-in the year 1902. Here we have a more
-distant view of Government House, as
-seen from the Maidan, with a statue of one
-of the Viceroys in the foreground. Next,
-in Chowringhee road, is the Imperial
-Museum, a fine building with a valuable
-Gallery of Antiquities.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-Musulmans at
-Prayer in the
-Maidan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-Ochterlony
-Monument,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-Calcutta from the
-Ochterlony
-Monument.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-Race Course,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-St. Paul’s Cathedral,
-Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-Tiretta Bazaar
-Street, Calcutta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us walk round the Maidan, and
-note the curiously mingled life upon it.
-Here, for instance, are Musulmans at
-prayer, an impressive sight that may be
-witnessed every evening. Here we are at
-the foot of the Ochterlony monument, a
-column erected in honour of Sir David
-Ochterlony, a successful general in the
-wars with Nepal. From the top of it
-we have a fine view over the city.
-Notice Government House and the
-High Court. At the other end of
-the Maidan is the racecourse and
-polo ground, to which we have already
-referred, and here amid the trees in
-the southeastern corner, beside the tank,
-is the spire of the English Cathedral.
-Here, in contrast, is a view in the native
-city. The streets are with a few exceptions
-very narrow, as in most southern
-cities where the sunshine is dreaded and
-where shade is essential to comfort.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-Jute Mills,
-Howrah.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-A Workshop in
-Iron Foundry at
-Howrah.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-The same,
-Plate Girders.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-Workpeople
-bathing
-at Howrah.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now we cross to Howrah, to the great
-jute mills, where the jute fibre grown up
-country is spun and woven in competition
-with the jute manufacture of Dundee. In these mills
-you will find that the machinery bears the names of Dundee
-and Leeds makers, for the industry is relatively new
-in India, and has not yet reached the stage of manufacturing
-its own machinery. Next we pass into the engineering
-works of Messrs. Burn and Co.,
-where some five thousand natives and
-some sixty Europeans are employed in
-the steel industry. Here are plate
-girders made in these works for railway
-bridge building, and here in this
-same industrial town of Howrah are
-people bathing after work in the jute
-mills.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Let us recount the essence of what we have seen—the
-Hooghly channel from the ocean, bearing inward the European
-ships; the Shrine of the Goddess Kali; the Fort which
-protected the factory of the East India Company; the
-Monument of the Black Hole; Government House and the
-Secretariat, whence the vast empire is ruled; the Cathedral
-and the Racecourse of the white rulers; the Courts of Justice,
-which, more than any military power, betoken the essence of
-British rule in India; the Native City with its narrow ways
-and crowded life drawn from the surrounding agricultural
-plain; the Howrah Bridge with the steel and jute mills
-beyond, which imply a vast incoming change in the
-economic life of this eastern land; and the Botanic Gardens
-with their wealth of vegetation typifying the ultimate
-resources of India—the tropical sunshine and the torrential
-rains.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 1.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now let us run northward by the East Bengal Railway
-for some three hundred miles to Darjeeling, the hill station
-of Calcutta, as Ootacamund is the hill station of Madras.
-We traverse the dead level of the plain with its thickly set
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>villages and tropical vegetation. There are some seven
-hundred and fifty thousand villages in India, and these
-village communities are the real India, for only about ten
-per cent. of the total population is contained in the cities.
-Yet Bengal in its present limits, which
-exclude Eastern Bengal, has a population
-of more than fifty millions, on an
-area slightly smaller than that of the United Kingdom.
-Now the total population of the United Kingdom is only
-some forty-four millions, and of these forty-four millions
-fully one-third inhabit some forty large cities. Britain is
-therefore mainly industrial, whereas India is mainly
-agricultural, nine-tenths of all the people in India being
-supported by occupations connected with agriculture. From
-such statistics some idea may be gained of the density of
-the agricultural population of Bengal, a Province with one
-great city only, as greatness of cities is measured in our
-British Islands.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The rule of these village-dotted plains is the main daily
-business of the Indian Government. A great Province like
-Bengal is divided into Districts, each of them about as large
-as the English county of Lincolnshire or a little larger. On
-the average each of them contains from half a million to a
-million and a half of population. There are some 250 of
-such Districts in British India, that is to say in that greater
-part of India which is administered directly by British
-officials. In each District there is a chief executive officer,
-styled the Collector or Deputy Commissioner. He is the
-head of the District administration, and he is also the
-principal Magistrate in the District. Under the Collector
-there is a staff of Executive Officers, British and Indian,
-of whom the chief are the Assistant Collector, the Deputy
-Collector, the Superintendent of Police, the Engineer, and
-the Civil Surgeon. The Collector is so called because in
-the days of the old East India Company his main function
-was to collect revenue. In his other capacity of Magistrate,
-he is the head of the Magisterial Courts of the District.
-The laws which he and his assistants administer are made
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>by the Viceroy in Council, and in a subordinate way by
-the Lieutenant-Governors and their Councils in the various
-Provinces. The Collector does not decide civil suits.
-These, as well as all serious criminal cases, come before
-Civil Judges of different grades, who are independent of the
-Collector.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Therefore we find in India that essential division of the
-Legislature, Judicature, and Executive which is the chief
-security of freedom in all British communities. Subject to
-the law and to the instructions of the superior Provincial
-Officers, the District Collector is, however, supreme, except
-in the Civil Courts of his District. He it is who alone for
-the vast majority of the Indian population represents the
-Raj or Rule of the King-Emperor. Between the Collectors
-and the Lieutenant-Governors are intermediate controlling
-officers known as Commissioners, who superintend Divisions
-or groups of several Districts.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Higher Civil Service of India, recruited by competitive
-examination in England, consists of some twelve
-hundred officials—the Commissioners, the Collectors
-of the Districts, and some of the Assistant Collectors.
-The seniors of the Civil Service man the Provincial and
-Supreme Governments of India. Only the Governor-General
-and the Governors of Madras and Bombay are
-selected from outside the Indian Civil Service and sent out
-from Britain.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Collector is constantly touring his District, in order
-that he may know it from personal investigation. A good
-Collector may become very popular, and may do much to
-make his District prosperous. It is a great position which
-may thus be held by young Englishmen of, say, thirty years of
-age. They are rulers of a million people at an age when their
-brothers of the professional classes at home are struggling
-to establish themselves as young barristers or doctors or
-clergymen.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>It must not be thought, however, that the Government of
-India, either in its Legislative, Judicial, or Executive capacities,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>is wholly British, and alien from the subject population.
-The Legislative Councils of the Governor-General and
-also of the Lieutenant-Governors in the Provinces contain
-elected Indian representatives, both Hindu and Musulman.
-The provincial Councils have, in fact, non-official majorities.
-Only in the Council of the Governor-General is there an
-official majority. Many of the Judges even of the High
-Courts are Indian, either Hindu or Musulman. In the
-Executive some of the Collectors of Districts are Indian, and
-also the great majority of the assistant officials, who in the
-aggregate are an immense number.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-Darjeeling Railway,
-Chinbatti Loop.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br /> Darjeeling Railway,
-Loop No. 4.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br /> Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-As we think over these things we are continuing our
-journey northward. We must change from train to steamer
-as we cross the Ganges. The passage of the river occupies
-about twenty minutes from one low-lying bank to the other.
-Then, as we traverse the endless rice fields with their
-clumps of graceful bamboo, the hills become visible across
-the northern horizon. We run into a
-belt of jungle, and change to the
-mountain railway, which carries us up the
-steep hill front with many a turn and
-twist. There is tall forest on the lower
-slopes, of teak and other great trees,
-hung thickly with creepers. Presently the
-wood becomes smaller, and we enter the tea plantations
-with their trim rows of green bushes. Far below us, at the
-foot of the steep forest, spreads to the southern horizon the
-vast cultivated plain. Trees of the fir tribe now take the
-place of leafy trees, and we rise to the
-ridge top on which is placed Darjeeling,
-a settlement of detached villas in compounds
-or enclosures, hanging on the steep hill slopes.
-Darjeeling is about seven thousand feet above sea level, on a
-ridge overlooking northward the gorge of the Rungeet River.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-Kinchinjunga,
-from Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-The Himalaya.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-Mount Everest.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the early morning, if we are fortunate in the weather
-and rise before the sun, we may see from Darjeeling, over
-the valley to north of the hill ridge on which we stand, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>over successive ridge tops beyond, the
-mighty snow range of the Himalayas, fifty
-miles away, with the peak of Kinchinjunga,
-more than five miles high, dominating the
-landscape. Behind it, a little to the west,
-and visible from Tiger Hill near Darjeeling,
-though not from Darjeeling itself, is Mount
-Everest, the highest mountain in the
-world, five and half miles high. The
-glittering wall of white mountains, visible across the vast
-chasm and bare granite summits in the foreground, seems
-to hang in the sky as though belonging to another world.
-The broad distance, and the sudden leap to supreme
-height, give to this scene a mysterious and almost visionary
-grandeur. It is, however, only occasionally that the culminating
-peaks can be seen, for they are often veiled in
-cloud.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-Tibetan Woman.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-Nepali Ladies.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The people of Sikkim in the hills beyond Darjeeling are
-Highlanders of Mongolian stock and not Indian. They are
-of Buddhist religion like the Burmans, and not Hindu or
-Musulman like the inhabitants of India. They are small,
-sturdy folk, with oblique cut eyes, and a Chinese expression,
-and they have the easy-going humorous character of the
-Burmans, though not the delicacy and civilization of those
-inhabitants of the sunny lowland. They
-and the kindred and neighbour Tibetans
-rarely wash, and the women anoint their
-faces with a mixture of pigs’ blood, which
-gives them a dark and mottled appearance.
-Here we have in colour a portrait of a
-Tibetan woman, and then a group of Nepali
-ladies, with various head ornaments.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-Political Map of
-India, distinguishing
-Bengal, Eastern
-Bengal and Assam,
-Nepal, and Bhutan.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-It is an interesting fact that these hill people should
-belong to the race which spreads over the vast Chinese
-Empire. That race here advances to the last hill brinks
-which overlook the Indian lowland. The political
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>map of this portion of India illustrates a
-parallel fact. While the plains are administered
-directly by British officials, the
-mountain slopes descending to them are
-ruled by native princes whose territories
-form a strip along the northern boundary of India.
-North of Assam and Bengal we have in succession from
-east to west, in the belt of hill country, the lands of
-Bhutan, Sikkim, and Nepal. From Nepal are recruited
-the Gurkha Regiments of the Indian army, the Gurkhas
-being a race of these same hill men, of small stature and
-sturdy agility, of Hindu religion, but of more or less
-Mongolian stock, and therefore intermediate between the
-Tibetans and the Hindus.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-The Bazaar,
-Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-The same—Nepali
-Vegetable Sellers.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-Man carrying
-Fodder, Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-Sikkim Peasants.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-Native Loom,
-Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-Village in Sikkim.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-The same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here we have a typical market scene
-in Darjeeling. Notice the women doing
-coolie work. Next are vegetable sellers
-in the Darjeeling Bazaar, and here is a
-man carrying fodder. The man with his
-back turned is a Lepcha of Sikkim.
-Then we have a group of Sikkim peasants
-drinking the native beer, made from
-marwa, a kind of millet. They draw
-it up through straws from cups made
-of bamboo. Next we see a native working
-a hand loom, and then a village in
-Sikkim. Here in the same village we
-see a woman carrying baggage.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-Lama Monastery,
-near Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-The same—Devil
-Dancers.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-The same—interior.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-The Amban Dance,
-Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-The same—another
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Near Darjeeling there is a small Buddhist
-monastery, a two-storey building of
-which we have here a view. Notice the
-semi-circle of tall poles, with linen flags,
-on which prayers are inscribed. By the entrance are
-a number of prayer-wheels fastened to the wall. Outside
-the monastery are men wearing the costumes
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>of devil dancers, such as are used
-in Buddhist religious ceremonies of
-these parts. There are long trumpets
-placed against the door post. Let us
-glance for a moment within this
-monastery, and see the hideous wooden
-masks, and the silk dresses of
-the priestly dancers. Two scenes
-follow, from Darjeeling itself, of an
-elaborate dance by Tibetan peasants
-called the Amban dance. The lions
-and dragons are each made of two
-men, whose bodies are hung with
-white yak hair and tails. They have
-grotesque heads, with enormous eyes and gaping mouths,
-from which hang large scarlet tongues. So we obtain
-some idea of the stage of barbarism in which the
-hill tribes remain.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-North Bengal
-Mounted Rifles,
-Lebong.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-The same—Sword
-Pegging.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-Coolies at
-Darjeeling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In contrast with these scenes are now
-two slides illustrating the volunteer service
-of the white tea planters. Of these the
-second shows tent-pegging on the Lebong
-parade ground, above the Rungeet river.
-This form of tent-pegging is with a sword,
-and not with the more usual lance. Here
-is a scene showing Darjeeling coolies
-returned from work in the tea gardens.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-The Rungeet
-Gorge.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-The same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-The Rungeet Bridge,
-Sikkim.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-A Himalayan
-Glacier.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-Glacier-fed Torrent
-in the Himalaya.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-Cane Bridge in
-the Himalaya.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Finally we have two views in the gorge
-of the Rungeet river, between Darjeeling
-and Sikkim, with precipitous sides, and
-then a glimpse of the Rungeet bridge.
-The Rungeet drains from the hills of
-Darjeeling, and from the snow mountains
-beyond, into a tributary of the Ganges.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>Several hundred such torrents burst in
-long succession through deep portals in
-the Himalayan foot hills and feed the
-great rivers of the plain, the Brahmaputra
-and the Ganges. They are perennial
-rivers, for they originate in the melting of
-the glaciers, and the Himalayan glaciers
-cover a vast area, being fed by the
-monsoon snows. Nearly all the agricultural
-wealth of Northern India owes
-its origin to the summer monsoon.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-Map of the
-Himalayan River
-System.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-To understand the fundamental conditions
-governing the Indian climate let
-us examine the two concluding maps of
-this lecture. On the first of them all the country with
-an elevation of more than fifteen hundred feet is coloured
-with a dark brown, and that with a lower elevation is
-coloured a light brown. A great angle of the Indian
-lowland is seen to project northward into the Asiatic
-upland. For fifteen hundred miles the Himalaya limits
-the lowland with a gracefully curving mountain edge, and
-from this edge there flow the series of tributaries which
-gather to the rivers Indus, Ganges, and Brahmaputra.
-Beyond, to the south, are seen in dark brown the higher
-portions of the Deccan plateau.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-Map of South-West
-Monsoon.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now compare with this the succeeding map, which shows
-the winds of the summer time and the average rainfall.
-The winds sweep in from the southwest,
-but as they cross Bengal they bend so
-as to blow from the south and then
-from the southeast. The dark arrow with the broken
-shaft striking northwestward through the heart of India
-represents the usual track of the storms which prevail in
-the Central Provinces during the summer season, producing
-the havoc along the Madras coast and northward, of which
-we spoke in the second lecture. The maximum rainfall, it
-will be seen, occurs in three regions—first on the west face of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>the Western Ghats, and on the west face of the mountains
-of Ceylon; secondly in the east of the Indian Peninsula
-near the track of the storm centres; and thirdly along the
-south face of the Garo hills and of the Himalayas north of
-Bengal, and on the west face of the various mountain ranges
-of Burma. In other words, in the first and third cases the
-rain is due to the winds striking the mountain ranges, and
-is great only on the windward faces of those ranges. In the
-second case the rainfall is mainly the result of the storms.
-On the other hand, there is drought at this season under
-the lee of the mountains of Ceylon and of the Western
-Ghats, and again in a comparatively small belt, near Pagan,
-along the Irawaddy river, between the western and the
-eastern ridges of Burma. Tibet, which is under the lee
-of the Himalayas, and northwestern India, which is out
-of the track of the southwest winds, are wide deserts.
-This map explains the exceptional fertility and density of
-population of the Province of Bengal.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 1.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-India is so vast a country, and so varied, that no
-traveller can hope to visit all parts of it. On our journey
-from Calcutta to Darjeeling, we have left the province
-of Assam away to the east of us. Assam is a through
-road nowhither, for high and difficult mountains close
-the eastern end of its great valley. Moreover, though
-it has vast natural resources, Assam is a country which
-throughout history has lain for the most part outside
-Indian civilisation, and, even to-day, has but a sparse
-population and a relatively small commercial development.
-Let us, then, just remember in passing
-that this remote province of India has
-a geography which, though simple, is built
-on a very grand scale.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The San-po river rises high on the plateau of Tibet
-northward of Lucknow. For more than 700 miles it flows
-eastward over the plateau in rear of the Himalayan peaks;
-then it turns sharply southward and descends steeply
-through a deep gorge little known, for it is tenanted by hostile
-tribes. Where it emerges from the mountains the river
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>has a level not a thousand feet above the sea, and here, turning
-westward, it forms the Brahmaputra—that is to say, the
-Son of Brahma, the Creator. The Brahmaputra flows for
-450 miles westward through the valley of Assam, deeply
-trenched between the snowy wall of the Himalayas on the
-one hand and the forested mountains of the Burmese
-border and the Khasia and Garo hills on the other hand.
-The river “rolls down the valley in a vast sheet of water,”
-depositing banks of silt at the smallest obstruction, “so that
-islands form and re-form in constant succession. Broad
-channels break away and rejoin the main river after wide
-divergences, which are subjected to no control. The
-swamps on either hand are flooded in the rainy season, till
-the lower reaches of the valley are one vast shining sea,
-from which the hills slope up on either side.” The traffic
-on the river is maintained chiefly by exports of tea and
-timber, with imports of rice for the labourers on the
-tea estates. Some day, when great sums of money are
-available for capital expenditure, the Brahmaputra will be
-controlled, and Assam will become the seat of teeming
-production and a dense population. The Indian Empire
-contains some 300 million people; but, as we learn, it also
-contains some of the chief virgin resources of the world.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE IV.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>THE UNITED PROVINCES.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE MUTINY.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of India,
-distinguishing the
-United Provinces.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Northwestward from Bengal, over the
-great plain of the Ganges, we enter the
-next region of India. The United Provinces
-of Agra and Oudh have an area
-almost equal to that of Great Britain, and a population as
-dense. When we go from Bengal to the United Provinces,
-it is as though we were crossing from one to another
-of the great continental States of Europe, say from Germany
-into France.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Map of the
-United Provinces.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Himalayan mountains lie to the
-north; the hills of Central India to the
-south. The plain between them, raised
-only a little above the sea, is two hundred
-miles across, measured from the foot hills of the Himalayas
-to the first rise of the Central Indian hills. Two great
-rivers, the Ganges and the Jumna, emerge from Himalayan
-valleys, and traverse the plain southward, and presently
-southeastward, leaving between them a tongue of land,
-known in Hindustani as the Doab, or two waters.
-Mesopotamia, between the rivers Euphrates and Tigris in
-the Nearer East, signifies the same in the Greek
-language. The Jumna joins the Ganges near the southern
-limit of the plain, and in the angle of the confluence is the
-large city of Allahabad, the capital and seat of the
-Lieutenant-Governor of the United Provinces. Other
-great tributaries flow to the Ganges from more eastern
-parts of the Himalayas, and bending southeastward join the
-main river one after another.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'><span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>Five considerable cities focus the great population of the
-United Provinces—Allahabad, already mentioned, Cawnpore,
-Lucknow, Agra, and Benares. A hundred miles
-above Allahabad, on the right or south bank of
-the Ganges, is the city of Cawnpore, and on the
-opposite or northern bank extends the old Kingdom of
-Oudh, with Lucknow for its capital, situated some forty miles
-northeast of Cawnpore. Agra, which gives its name to all
-that part of the United Provinces which did not formerly
-belong to Oudh, is situated on the right or south bank of
-the Jumna, a hundred and fifty miles west of Lucknow.
-Eighty miles below Allahabad, on the north bank of the
-Ganges, is Benares, the most sacred city of the Hindus.
-All these distances between the cities of Agra, Cawnpore,
-Lucknow, Allahabad, and Benares, lie over the dead level
-of the plain, dusty, and like a desert in the dry season, but
-green and fertile after the rains. Scattered over the plain
-are innumerable villages, in which dwell nineteen out of
-twenty of the inhabitants of the joint Provinces. Lucknow
-is the largest of the cities, yet it has only a quarter of a
-million inhabitants.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The United Provinces are the heart of India, the typical
-Indian land, safe from invasion from the north by reason
-of the Himalayan barrier and the desert plateau of Tibet;
-relatively inaccessible from the ocean, and not conquered
-by Britain until long after Bengal had become a Province
-of the East India Company; relatively safe also from
-northwestern invasion. Its people remain dominantly
-Hindu in their religion and customs, whereas the great
-province of the Punjab further northwestward has a majority
-of Musulmans. Southward is the plateau of Central
-India, comparatively thinly peopled.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The language of the United Provinces, and of considerable
-districts to west, south, and east of them, is Hindi, the
-most direct derivative of the ancient Sanskrit tongue,
-whose use was contemporary with that of Latin and Greek.
-All three of these ancient tongues, as well as Old Persian,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>belong to the family of the Indo-European languages.
-Sanskrit was brought into India by a conquering people
-from the northwest. Hindi is now spoken by a hundred
-million people in all the northern centre of India. It
-is the language not only of the United Provinces but
-also of the western part of Bengal which is known as
-Behar, of that part of the Punjab which surrounds Delhi,
-and of a wide district in Central India ruled by the great
-Maratha chiefs, Sindhia and Holkar. Other tongues
-of similar origin are spoken in the regions around—Bengali
-in Bengal, Marathi and Gujrati in the lands which
-lie east and north of Bombay, and Punjabi in the Punjab.
-We must think of these various Indian languages as
-differing from one another much as French and Spanish
-and Italian differ, which are all derived from a common
-Latin source. The Hindi language was picked up by
-the Musulman conquerors of India, and by adding to it
-words of their own Persian speech they formed Urdu, the
-language of the camp. This is the language of educated
-Musulmans all over India to this day. Under the name
-of Hindustani it has become a sort of <i>lingua franca</i>
-throughout India, and is used by Europeans when talking
-to their servants.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Away to the south, beyond the limit of the Sanskrit
-tongues, in the province of Madras and neighbouring areas,
-are talked languages wholly alien from Sanskrit, and
-differing from Hindi, Bengali, Marathi, Gujrati, and Punjabi,
-much as the Turkish and Hungarian languages differ from
-the group of allied Indo-European tongues spoken in
-Western Europe. These southern Indian tongues are
-known as Dravidian. The most important of them are
-Telugu, spoken by twenty millions, and Tamil, spoken by
-some fifteen millions. The Hindu religion, however, is
-held by the great majority both of the Dravidian south
-and of the Indo-European north and centre.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>If there be one part of India which we may think of as
-the shrine of shrines in a land where religion rules all life,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>it is to be found in a triangle of cities just contained
-within the map before us. There on the Ganges we see
-Benares and Patna, and some fifty miles south of Patna
-the smaller town of Gaya. Benares from prehistoric times
-has been the focus of Hinduism. Patna was the capital of
-the chief Gangetic kingdom more than two thousand years
-ago, when the Greek ambassador Megasthenes, first of the
-Westerns, travelled thus far into the East. Gaya was the
-spot where Buddha, seeking to reform Hinduism some six
-hundred years before Christ, obtained enlightenment, and
-then migrated to teach at Benares, or rather at Sarnath,
-now in ruin, some three or four miles north of the present
-Benares. The peoples of all the vast Indian and Chinese
-world, from Karachi to Pekin and Tokyo, look to this little
-group of cities as the centre of holiness, whether they be
-followers of Brahma or of Buddha.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-Buddhist Tope at
-Sarnath.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-Sculptures at
-Sarnath.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Lion-capital at
-Sarnath.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Old Benares, whose ruins are now known
-as Sarnath, was a few miles north of the
-existing city. We have here one of the
-Buddhist topes of Sarnath, which was
-the spot to which Buddha removed after
-he had received enlightenment at Gaya.
-Here he and his disciples began to teach.
-We have another view at Sarnath,
-showing some of the ancient sculptures,
-and a gigantic lion-capital recently excavated.
-Its size can be appreciated by noticing the
-man behind.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Plan of Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-View across the
-Ganges to the
-Southern Shore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-Panchganga Ghat,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-The Same—another
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-Palace of the
-Raja of Bhinga,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-The Same—another
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Benares extends for four miles along the northern
-bank of the Ganges. This bank is here higher than the
-southern, and descends to the river edge with a steep brink.
-Down this brink are many flights of steps, known as
-“ghats,” which we may translate by the
-word “approaches.” We have already
-heard the word “ghat” applied to the steep mountain-high
-brinks of the southern plateau of India, where the upper
-ground breaks away to the shore of the Arabian Sea on
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>the one hand, and to the low-lying plain of the Carnatic
-on the other. The city of Benares is situated on the plateau
-top above the ghats, and for four miles
-the river front is crowned with palaces
-and temples, built of a yellow sandstone.
-The opposite, the southern, shore
-lies low and without buildings. Here is
-a view looking southward across the river
-from the brink edge; it shows the low
-and non-sacred southern shore. Here are
-two views of the brink itself, faced and
-crowned with buildings of yellow sandstone.
-There follow two views of the
-palace of the Raja of Bhinga, and in
-both we see the ghat steps descending to
-the water’s edge.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-Dasashwamedh
-Ghat, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-Manikarnika Ghat,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The population of Benares numbers some two hundred
-thousand, of whom the great majority are of the Hindu
-faith, and no fewer than thirty thousand are Brahmans,
-the priestly caste. It is said that more than a million
-pilgrims visit the city every year. In the early morning
-they descend the ghats to bathe in the river and to drink
-the sacred water. Here we have the
-scene at one of these ghats, with the
-conical towers of a temple, and the great
-sun umbrellas. Another scene of a
-similar character follows at another ghat,
-the most sacred in Benares.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-Burning Ghat,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-Another Burning
-Ghat, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Some of the ghats are used for the burning of dead
-bodies. Wrapped in a white shroud, the corpse is dipped
-into the river, then laid on a pile of faggots, and other
-faggots are built around, and a light is set to the pile. The
-ashes are thrown into the river. These rites are performed
-by the nearest relatives. We have here
-the body of a woman of the poorer classes
-nearly consumed, and the few relatives
-looking on. Here preparations are in
-progress for another cremation. The
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>corpse may be seen, with its feet in the water, resting aslant
-at the foot of the ghat. The bodies of the higher castes
-are burnt at the Raja Ghat on costly fires of sandal-wood.
-At night, from the water, the city, with its thousands of
-lights and the tall flames at the Burning Ghats, is deeply
-impressive.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-The Observatory,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-The Samrat Yantra
-in the Observatory.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-Eclipse Festival,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Perhaps the most interesting of all the
-buildings at Benares is the Observatory,
-a lofty structure placed on the river
-brink and commanding a wide view. Within are
-instruments of stone on a great scale for the observation
-of the movements of the heavenly bodies.
-This is the Samrat Yantra, used for
-observing the declination and right ascension
-of the stars. Astronomy plays no inconsiderable part
-in the rites of Benares. The pilgrimages
-are thronged at the time of eclipse of
-the sun, and there are certain ghats of
-special resort during the occurrence of eclipses.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-Roof of Golden
-Temple, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20
-Vishnagi Temple,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-Aurangzeb’s
-Mosque, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-The Same—another
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Set a little back from the river front in a small square
-is the chief temple of the Hindus. Europeans are not
-permitted to go within, but only to peep through a
-hole in the wall, and also from an upper balcony of a
-neighbouring house to look down upon
-the gilded roof. Beside this temple
-there is another, half of which is in ruin,
-and the remainder has been converted to the purpose of
-a Musulman mosque. The old part is of yellow-grey
-sandstone, tawny with age, but the mosque has been white-washed
-and shines brightly in the sunlight.
-We have here a view of this temple-mosque,
-and then there follow two views,
-showing the tall minarets of Aurangzeb’s
-Mosque, built on the site of another
-Hindu temple which he destroyed. For
-two centuries until the advent of British
-power the rulers of this Hindu land were
-of the Musulman faith, conquerors from the northwest.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>The Musulmans destroyed many of the ancient Hindu
-temples of Benares, so that most of the buildings of the city
-are comparatively modern.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-A Fakir, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-Snake Charmers,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-As in a Christian country, such a resort of pilgrims brings
-together men from far distant and different lands, and we
-have at Benares an epitome of all Hindu India. In the
-narrow deep-shaded streets, and the sordid and tawdry
-purlieus of the temples may be seen many a typical scene
-of Eastern life. Here, for instance, close
-to Aurangzeb’s Mosque, is a Fakir or
-religious enthusiast, to whom the alms of
-the faithful are due. He rests on this bed of spikes day
-and night. Such Fakirs get much alms, which they are
-supposed by the envious to bury underground.
-We have another characteristic
-scene here, two snake charmers on
-one of the ghats, with a fine assortment of reptiles—cobra,
-python, and other snakes, as well as scorpions. There is
-always a ready crowd for them, as for jugglers of curious skill.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-Bullock Cart,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-A Camel,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-A Bridegroom,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The traffic in the streets is of the most
-various kind. Here is an ox waggon,
-with cumbrous wooden wheels, laden
-with rough stone for road making, and
-here a tall camel bringing in tobacco from
-some outlying village. This is a bridegroom
-of the highest, the Brahman caste,
-mounted on a white horse, and clothed in
-a golden dress shot with pink. He
-is probably on his way to pay a
-ceremonial call.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-Prince of Wales
-Hospital, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-Queen’s College,
-Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Central Hindu
-College, Benares.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Further inland, near the railway station, is grouped the
-European quarter, with a Christian church, the post office,
-the regimental barracks of the cantonment, missionary
-colleges, villas of officials, and a few fine public buildings of
-recent date. Here for instance, with a
-bullock cart passing it, and another
-vehicle behind with a sun-hood, is the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>Prince of Wales Hospital. Here is Queen’s College, where
-a modern education is given to some
-five hundred students, and here finally is
-the Central Hindu College, opened in
-1899, “for the education of Hindu youth
-in their ancestral faith and in true loyalty
-and patriotism.” This college contains
-about two hundred and fifty students.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Army Factory,
-Cawnpore—Native
-Cutters
-at work.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We now leave Benares, noticing the great railway bridge
-over the Ganges, and travel by rail over the grey monotony
-of the plains, varied by patches of cultivation, herds of
-long-eared goats, long-legged pigs, large black vultures,
-and here and there a string of camels. So we come to
-Cawnpore, the Manchester of India. Cawnpore is the
-chief inland manufacturing city of India, a great contrast in
-all its ways with Benares. Western capital, Western ideas,
-and Western organisation are at work on a large scale.
-There are mills and factories for the spinning and weaving
-of wool, mostly Indian wool, but some Australian brought
-by way of Calcutta. One of these mills seen by our
-artist had on hand at the time of his visit an order for eleven
-thousand coats, and had just finished thirty-three thousand
-for the police of the great native state of Hyderabad. This
-is the mill in question. The cutters are shearing coats from
-a great piece of khaki, on which the
-patterns to be cut have been chalked.
-Both the spinning of the yarn and the
-weaving of khaki cloth have been
-accomplished by native labour and British
-machinery at Cawnpore. Khaki signifies the colour of
-khak, or dust.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-The Same—the
-Raw Hide
-Shed.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-The Same—unloading
-Bark.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-The Same—the
-Boot Shop.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-Well in
-Messrs. Cooper
-Allen’s Model
-Village, Cawnpore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-Native Potters.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here is a leather factory for making
-Government boots and army equipment.
-This view shows the raw hides, mostly
-buffalo, gathered by rail from all parts of
-India. The hides on the weighing
-machine have been dried. This is
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>bark being unloaded from the train for
-use in the tannery. Then we see
-the boot shop itself, thronged with workmen.
-These workmen are mostly
-Musulmans. As will be seen, the
-boots are hand-sewn. One large firm, employing daily some
-three thousand five hundred hands, has
-built a model village, of which we have
-here the well, the central feature of every
-Indian village, whether of the new and
-garden type, or of the old and traditional. What a contrast
-must all this be to the inhabitants of the country districts,
-where village tradesmen still follow their
-traditional crafts! Here, for example,
-are two views in a pottery near Benares.
-The potters turn the wheel with their
-feet. Most Hindu workmen use their
-feet a good deal, and of course the
-typical squatting attitude makes it easier for them to do so.</p>
-<p class='c024'>Consider the revolution in all the social life of India,
-which is involved in the steady displacement of these
-village-made wares by the cheaper machine-made products
-of Cawnpore and other factory centres. There is a change
-beginning throughout the length and breadth of this vast
-land, not wholly unlike that which took place in Britain
-under the name of the Industrial Revolution a century
-and a half ago. As higher and more skilled industries are
-introduced, it seems likely ultimately to result in a migration
-of workers from the villages to the cities, in the growth of
-the size of the cities, and in the greater monotony of life in
-the rustic villages. No doubt there will be some inevitable
-suffering, especially on the part of those workers who
-cannot adapt themselves to the new conditions. In the
-main, however, the factory operatives have thus far been
-peasant proprietors who forsake their villages only for
-a time.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-The Rumi Gate,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-The Same—from
-within.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-The Imambara,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-The Same—the
-Great Hall.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Lucknow is a city of modern temples and palaces, many
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>of them stucco buildings of debased architecture, which
-appear beautiful only by moonlight and when artificially
-illuminated. We have here the Rumi
-Gateway, and here the same gateway from
-within. Then we have the Imambara,
-built under Asaf-ud-daulah, who also
-built the Residency, as a relief work in a
-great famine in 1784. The most striking
-feature is the successful construction of an enormous roof
-of coarse concrete without ribs, beams, pillars, or visible
-support of any kind, except that from the four surrounding
-walls. Here is the great hall, beneath this roof. It is
-about a hundred and sixty feet long,
-fifty feet wide, and some fifty feet high.
-On the floor is the tomb of Asaf-ud-daulah,
-a slab of plain masonry surrounded by silver, and covered
-with a canopy. The tomb is not in line with the sides of
-the hall, but is a little askew in order that it be oriented in
-accordance with the direction of Mecca. Near by can be
-seen a huge tazia, which is carried through the streets on
-the Musulman anniversary of the Moharam.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-In the Chauk
-Bazaar, Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-A Musulman
-Woman in a
-Burka.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-The Jama Masjid,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-The Husainabad
-Imambara,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-Karbala of
-Diana-ud-daula,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-The Kasmain,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Next we have two views in the Bazaar
-of Lucknow, which forms one of the
-six wards of the city. In the bazaar are
-to be found jewellers and silversmiths,
-together with brassworkers and woodcarvers.
-Then we come to a very
-characteristic Indian scene, a Musulman
-woman wearing a burka, that is to say,
-a veil with eye-slits. All Musulman
-women of a higher class are veiled when
-they leave the privacy of their houses, in accordance with
-the general feeling of Islam, alike in Europe, Africa, and
-Asia. Here we see the Jama Masjid,
-a three-domed mosque, with decorations
-painted in blue and purple upon its
-walls. Within it is a curious ledge
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>used by the Shiahs, one of the two great sects of the
-Musulmans, for resting their foreheads at prayer time.
-From the platform of this mosque, we have a view
-of one of the largest Muhammadan buildings of the city,
-the Husainabad Imambara, built in 1837,
-by Muhammad Ali Shah, as a burial place
-for himself and his mother. It is almost
-entirely of painted stucco. Beyond its tallest minaret can
-be seen in the distance the red brick Clock-Tower of the
-city. Here we see the Karbala or
-burying place of Diana-ud-daula, of red
-sandstone, with a gilded cupola, and close
-by is the Kasmain, whose architecture is
-copied from that of a sacred place
-in Bagdad.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-The Chhattar
-Manzil, Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-Women planting
-Tobacco Plants,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Next we see the Chhattar Manzil,
-once the Palace of the Kings of
-Oudh, now transformed into the United
-Service Club. Finally, in contrast, is
-a scene near the Residency, showing
-women planting out young tobacco plants,
-with an irrigation well in the background.
-Notice the oxen pulling at the rope with
-a skin attached, which draws up the
-water.</p>
-<p class='c024'>Already the busy hive of industry at Cawnpore plays no
-mean part in the economy of the Indian Empire, but for
-British ears Cawnpore and Lucknow have a historical and
-deeper interest. These two cities were the focus of those
-events in the tragic year 1857, which we speak of as the
-Indian Mutiny. At that time British India was still ruled
-by the East India Company, an Association founded at the
-close of Queen Elizabeth’s reign. The British East India
-Company had at first purely mercantile aims, but, as we
-have already heard in these lectures, was soon involved in
-native intrigues and wars owing to the rivalry of the
-competing French Company. Robert Clive went out to
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>India as a writer or clerk in the employ of “John Company,”
-as it was called, but he exchanged the pen for the sword,
-and by his defence of Arcot brought about the defeat of the
-French party in the Carnatic, and the supremacy of the
-British Company in that state. So he established the
-Madras Province around Fort Saint George on the southeastern
-coast. The great Colonel Clive, who recaptured
-Calcutta and won the Province of Bengal by the decisive
-victory at Plassey, was the same soldier grown a little older
-in the service of the same great Company.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>By successive stages in the next two or three generations
-the East India Company was deprived of its trading
-monopolies. At the time of the Mutiny it was in fact
-merely the Government of India, and was controlled even
-in this function by the British Government. The Company
-maintained a large army of sepoys or native soldiers,
-officered by Europeans, and also a small force that was
-wholly British. In the years immediately preceding
-the Mutiny, great changes had been made in India.
-In one way or another several native governments had been
-overthrown, and among these was the Kingdom of Oudh,
-whose capital was at Lucknow, which was annexed because
-of its misrule. There was hence much unrest among
-some of the Indian peoples, and the spirit of discontent
-spread to the native army of Bengal, mostly recruited
-from Oudh. Then an unfortunate incident occurred.
-A new form of cartridge was supplied to the troops,
-the end of which had to be bitten off before the old
-fashioned gun of those times could be loaded. Rumour
-got about that beef grease or pigs’ fat had been employed
-in the manufacture of these cartridges. Now the Hindus
-regard oxen as sacred, and the Musulmans look on the
-pig as unclean. The Hindus use oxen as draught animals
-for their ploughs and their carts, but to kill them or to eat
-their flesh is sinful. So it was that the agitators were able
-to play on the superstitions and prejudices of the ignorant
-soldiers. The mutinous troops murdered many of their white
-officers, and gradually gathered into three armies, which
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>attacked the small loyal native forces and the white men and
-women who had collected at Delhi, Cawnpore, and Lucknow.
-Of the fall of Delhi and its re-capture by the British we will
-speak later when we come to describe in the seventh lecture
-the northern part of India. Assistance came to that place,
-not from Calcutta and the sea, but from the great newly
-acquired Province of the Punjab, which remained loyal.
-Cawnpore and Lucknow lay, however, far to the southeast of
-Delhi, and were inaccessible from that direction. Sir Henry
-Lawrence was in command at Lucknow, and General Wheeler
-at Cawnpore. In each case the native city was abandoned,
-and the small loyal native force and white refugees were
-gathered into an area more possible of defence. General
-Havelock led the first army of relief from Calcutta and
-Allahabad towards Cawnpore, but before he arrived, the little
-garrison, trusting to treacherous promises, had surrendered.
-They marched down to the river to take boat for Allahabad,
-and there most of them were slain—men, women, and
-children. A few were imprisoned at Cawnpore and were
-massacred a fortnight later.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-Massacre Ghat,
-Cawnpore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-The Same—another
-View.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We have here the ghat, now known as
-Massacre Ghat, by which the English
-went down to the fatal shore, and here
-another and wider view of the same
-scene. The road that leads down
-to the ghat is shaded by some fine trees,
-behind which were hidden on the 27th June, 1857, the
-mutineers who carried out the massacre. In the distance
-can be seen the red brick piers of the Oudh and Rohilkund
-Railway bridge, built of course since the Mutiny.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Retribution soon came to the mutineers. General
-Havelock marched from Allahabad with some two thousand
-men, and in a fierce battle defeated the rebels under Nana
-Sahib, and entered Cawnpore. He then tried to carry
-relief across the forty miles of plain northeastward to
-Lucknow. Twice he failed, and was forced back, but at
-last he effected his entry to that city, with a force so weak,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>however, that it was impossible to keep open his communications,
-and the reinforced garrison at Lucknow was
-subjected to a renewal of the siege. At last Sir Colin
-Campbell, afterwards Lord Clyde, arrived with an army
-sent out from Britain. We must remember that in those
-days there was no Suez Canal, and communication with
-India was round the Cape of Good Hope. Fortunately an
-expedition was on its way to China when the Mutiny broke
-out, and this force was diverted to Calcutta, and supplied
-the first relief, which was led, as we have seen, by General
-Havelock.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-The Residency,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-The Tower of the
-Residency.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-The Baillie Gate,
-Lucknow.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-The Ammunition
-Mosque in the
-Residency.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-The Monument
-outside the
-Residency.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The defence at Lucknow centered in
-the Residency, the official home that is to
-say of the British Resident at the court of
-the recently dethroned King of Oudh.
-The Residency is now in ruins, as we see
-in the three slides which follow. Here is
-a view taken from the direction of the
-Baillie Gate, and here is the Tower. Here
-is the Baillie Gate itself, the scene of the
-most furious attacks on the British position. The old man
-whom we note with his hat off and a medal on his breast is
-the guardian of the place, a veteran of the Mutiny, who as
-a boy took part in the defence of Lucknow. These Mutiny
-veterans have now become but a very small band.
-Here in the Residency is another ruin,
-the mosque in which the ammunition
-was kept during the siege, and here
-is the Monument to the loyal native
-soldiers. It bears the following inscription:—“To
-the memory of the
-native officers and sepoys who died near
-this spot nobly performing their duty.” This monument
-was erected in 1875 by Lord Northbrook, Viceroy and
-Governor-General of India, and serves to remind us
-that the Indians who fell in defence of our flag
-outnumbered the British. The Tower of the Residency
-can be seen in the background.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-All Souls Memorial
-Church, Cawnpore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-The Well Memorial,
-Cawnpore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-At Cawnpore, also, there are sad memorials of massacre
-and defeat, not of ultimate victory as at
-Lucknow. We have here All Souls
-Memorial church, containing monuments
-to those who fell near by. The low
-evergreen hedge seen in the picture marks the line of General
-Wheeler’s unfortunately chosen entrenchments. Here, at the
-east end of the city, in the beautiful Memorial Gardens, over
-the well into which the dead bodies were
-cast after the second massacre, is a figure
-of the Angel of the Resurrection,
-sculptured by Marochetti in white marble. In each hand
-is a palm, the emblem of peace. Around the circle of
-the well is the following inscription:—</p>
-
-<p class='c035'>“Sacred to the perpetual memory of the great
-company of Christian people, chiefly women and
-children, who near this spot were cruelly murdered
-by the followers of the rebel Nana Dhundu Pant of
-Bithur, and cast, the dying with the dead, into the
-well below, on the 15th day of July, 1857.”</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-The Queen’s
-Statue, Cawnpore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Finally, we look at the bronze monument
-of the Queen-Empress Victoria,
-whose direct government displaced that
-of the East India Company after the quelling of the
-Mutiny in 1858. Hindu gardeners are at work in the
-foreground. No Briton can visit Lucknow and Cawnpore
-without being moved. We may well be proud of the
-heroic deeds of those of our race who in 1857 suffered
-and fought and died to save the British Raj in India.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE V.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>BOMBAY.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE MARATHAS.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of Indian
-Railway System.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Two new facts have of recent years altered all the
-relations of India with the outer world, and have vitally
-changed the conditions of internal government as compared
-with those prevailing at the time of the Mutiny. The first
-of these facts was the opening of the Suez
-Canal, and the second was the construction,
-and as regards main lines the virtual
-completion of the Indian Railway System.
-Formerly shipping came round the Cape of Good Hope,
-and it was as easy to steer a course for Calcutta as for
-Bombay. To-day only bulky cargo is taken from Suez
-and Aden round the southern point of India through the
-Bay of Bengal to Calcutta. The fast mail boats run to
-Bombay, and thence the railways diverge northward,
-northeastward, and southeastward to all the frontiers of
-the Empire. Only the Burmese railways remain for the
-present a detached system. But in regard to tonnage of
-traffic Calcutta is still the first port of India, for the country
-which lies in rear of it in Bengal and the United Provinces
-contains a very large population.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>From Bombay inland runs the Great Indian Peninsula
-Railway, or as it is known everywhere in India, the G.I.P.
-This line branches a short distance from the coast, striking
-on the one hand southeastward in the direction of Madras,
-and on the other hand northeastward in the direction of
-Allahabad. A second great railway system, the East Indian,
-begins at Howrah on the shore of the Hooghly opposite to
-Calcutta, and thence crossing the low Rajmahal spur of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>central hills descends to the bank of the Ganges at Patna,
-from which point it follows the river to Allahabad, and
-there branches, one line continuing northwestward to
-Delhi and beyond, the other striking southwestward
-through the hills to Jubbulpore, where it meets the northeastward
-branch of the G.I.P. Each week, four hours after
-the arrival of the mail steamer at Bombay, three express
-trains leave the Victoria Station of that city. One of them
-is bound southeastward for Madras. The second runs
-northeastward over the G.I.P. and East Indian lines, by
-way of Jubbulpore and Allahabad, to the Howrah Station
-at Calcutta. The third also runs northeastward by the
-G.I.P. line, but diverges northward from the Calcutta
-route to Agra and Delhi. When the Government of India
-is at Simla, the last mentioned train continues northward
-beyond Delhi to the foot of the mountains. The time
-taken to Madras is 26 hours, to Calcutta 36 hours, and
-to Delhi 27 hours.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Access to the great plains at the foot of the Himalayas
-was formerly by the navigation of the Ganges and of its
-tributaries. Then the Grand Trunk road was constructed
-from Calcutta northwestward through the Gangetic plain to
-the northwest of India. It was by this road that relief was
-brought during the Mutiny to the besieged garrisons of
-Cawnpore and Lucknow. Finally, the East Indian Railway
-was built from Bengal to the Punjab through the
-whole length of the densely peopled belt which is
-enriched by the monsoon rains of the Himalayas.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Recently a more direct line from Bombay to Calcutta,
-which does not pass through Allahabad, has been constructed
-through Nagpur, the capital of the Central Provinces
-of India. This runs, however, through a hilly country, much
-forested and relatively thinly peopled. There are now two
-daily mails between Calcutta and Bombay, the one running
-via Nagpur and the other <i>viâ</i> Allahabad.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Indian Railway
-Station.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We have here an Indian train standing
-at a platform. Note the screens constructed
-to give shade in the heat of the
-day.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-Bhor Ghat
-Reversing Station.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The two branches of the Great Indian Peninsula
-Railway approach one another at an angle from Allahabad
-and the northeast and from Madras and the southeast. They
-descend the steep mountain face which edges the Deccan
-plateau by two passes, the Bhor Ghat and the Thal Ghat.
-The lines are constructed downward, with remarkable skill
-of engineering, by loops, and in places by blind ends on
-which the trains are reversed. Here are two views of the
-Bhor Ghat Reversing Station, the first
-taken from below, and the second from
-above. The Junction of the two lines
-is in the narrow coastal plain at the foot
-of the descent. Thence the rails are
-carried by a bridge over a sea strait into
-Sashti Island, and by a second bridge over a second strait
-into Bombay Island, and so to the great Victoria Terminus
-in the midst of the city.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Map of Bombay
-District.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The island of Bombay is about twelve miles long from
-north to south. The harbour, set with hilly islets, lies
-between Bombay and the mainland, the
-entry being from the south round the long
-Colaba Point. Westward of Colaba is
-Back Bay, formed by the Malabar Point,
-on whose end, extended as it were to meet Europe, is
-the residence of the Governor of the great Province of
-Bombay.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Plan of Bombay
-City.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-Bombay, from top
-of Rajabaie Tower,
-looking South.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-The Same, looking
-Southeast.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-The Same, looking
-Northeast.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-The Same, looking
-Northwest.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 1.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The most conspicuous feature of the now magnificent
-city is a range of public buildings, running
-north and south about mid-way between
-the harbour and Back Bay. East of
-these buildings is the oldest quarter of
-the city, known as the Fort. Westward, on the shore of
-Back Bay, is a broad expanse of garden. The native town
-lies to the north, and beyond it is Byculla, where are the
-mills and factories, and to the east of Byculla on the harbour
-front is the dockyard of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam
-Navigation Company. How fine a city is Bombay may
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>be realised from the top of the great tower of the
-University, some two hundred and fifty feet high, the
-most conspicuous building in the place. It is the central
-feature of the range of public buildings just referred
-to. We have here in succession from south and southeast
-to northeast and northwest, four views from the
-top of this tower. The first is to the
-south, and shows the Union Jack flying
-from the Secretariat of the Government
-of Bombay, and the entry to the harbour
-beyond. The edge of the garden belt
-towards Back Bay is seen along the right
-hand edge of the view. In the southeastward
-view we have the shipping and the
-islands of the harbour, and the Government Dockyard
-with its long jetty. Notice the island fort guarding the
-channel. In the northeastward view we
-look towards the native city, and see the
-factories smoking in the distance. It
-will be seen that there are practically no
-chimneys on the nearer buildings, and no smoke in the air.
-Finally from our tower top we turn northwestward,
-and look across the head of
-Back Bay towards Malabar Point. The
-building on the shore of the Bay is the
-office of the Bombay and Baroda Railway, which runs northward
-along the coast into a densely peopled lowland round
-the head of the Gulf of Cambay. Away
-in the distance on that Malabar Promontory,
-but not visible in this view, are
-the Towers of Silence, where the Parsis dispose of their
-dead.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-Group of Parsis.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-Parsi Tower of
-Silence.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Parsis (<i>i.e.</i> Persians) are a community, chiefly of
-merchants, who came to Bombay in the
-Middle Ages, flying from Persia when
-the Musulmans conquered that land.
-They hold the ancient faith of Persia, and are commonly
-described as Fire Worshippers. They regard the elements
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>fire, water, and earth as sacred, and therefore refuse
-to pollute them with the decay of dead
-bodies. They build round towers, known
-as Towers of Silence, and these they
-place in large grounds equivalent to
-our cemeteries. Each tower is hollow and exposed to
-the sky within. There on stone ledges the dead bodies
-are laid, and the vultures pick the flesh from the bones.
-The ash of the bones is washed by the rain into a
-central pit at the bottom of the hollow tower, where
-it slowly accumulates, so that, in accordance with one
-of the tenets of their faith, the Parsis, rich and poor,
-meet in death. The Parsis of Bombay are a wealthy and
-enterprising community, who do no small part of the
-commerce of the city. One of their number recently sat
-in the House of Commons at Westminster as the
-representative of a London constituency. They have no
-caste prejudices like the Hindus, and no seclusion of
-women like the Musulmans, so that their ways of life
-are nearer to those of Europeans.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-The Rajabaie
-Tower, Bombay
-University.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-The Same, more
-distant view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-P. &amp; O. Offices,
-Bombay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-Carmac Bund,
-Bombay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-Victoria Terminus,
-G.I.P., Bombay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-The Same: another
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-Municipal Buildings,
-Bombay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-Esplanade Road,
-Bombay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-Fountain in
-Esplanade Road,
-Bombay.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-Statue of
-Queen Victoria.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now let us walk through the city, and realise its grandeur.
-Here we are down by the western façade
-of the University. The great tower rises
-above us from which we just now obtained
-our views. That tower is called the
-Rajabaie Tower, in memory of the mother
-of the founder of the building. This is
-a rather more distant picture of the same
-building. We have next the offices of the
-P. and O. Company, and then a wharfside
-with steamers about to start for Goa,
-the old Portuguese capital midway along the
-west coast of India southward of Bombay.
-Here we have the great Victoria Terminus
-of the G.I.P. Railway, with a central dome
-and an elaborately carved façade.
-Bombay claims that it is the finest railway
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>station in the world. This is another view
-of the same building, with bullocks passing
-in front of it. Here are the Municipal
-Buildings with another fine dome. They
-are a combination of gothic with oriental
-architecture, and were opened about
-fifteen years ago. Notice the electric
-tramway wires above. Then we see
-another fine street, the Esplanade Road.
-The National Bank is to the left, and
-further along is the Bombay Club. Here
-is a fountain in the Esplanade Road, with
-a bullock passing in front of it, and here is
-the Statue of the Queen-Empress Victoria,
-unveiled in 1872. On the canopy are the
-rose of England and the lotus of India.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Bombay has a population only a little smaller than that
-of Calcutta, and, like Calcutta and Madras, it is a new
-city, as time goes in the Immemorial East. The island on
-which it stands was presented to King Charles II. as part
-of the dower of his Portuguese Queen, and in order to
-enable the British the better to co-operate with the Portuguese
-in resisting the aggressions and encroachments of
-the Dutch. When handed over by the Portuguese, there
-was but a small settlement on the island. In 1668, however,
-Bombay was ceded to the East India Company,
-and the Company transferred thither the centre of its
-trade on the west coast of India, which had up to that
-time been at Surat, a hundred miles north of Bombay.
-Gradually the commerce of the port increased, although
-for a long time it was far outdistanced by Calcutta,
-whose great riverway extends, as we have seen, through
-densely peopled plains for a thousand miles inland. Eastward
-of Bombay, on the other hand, is the mountain face
-of the Western Ghats, barring easy access to the interior.
-The greatness of Bombay came only with the opening of
-the Suez Canal and of the railway lines up the Bhor and
-Thal Ghats, northeastward and southeastward into India.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-Exterior of Caves
-of Elephanta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-Caves of Elephanta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-The Same,
-showing the
-Trimurti.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-Villagers of
-Elephanta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In Bombay Harbour there is a small island, about six
-miles from the city, which is called
-Elephanta. It contains carved rock
-temples whose antiquity contrasts strangely
-with the modern city close by. We have
-here the entry to these temple caves, and
-here a view within. This is another
-picture, showing a three-faced image.
-The carving is some twenty feet high, and
-represents Brahma the Creator, Siva the
-Destroyer, and Vishnu the Preserver. The nature of these
-gods was described in the first of these lectures. Here we
-have a little group of the villagers of
-Elephanta. The village has some seven
-hundred inhabitants. It is known as
-Elephanta because there was formerly
-conspicuous among the rock carvings of the temple a
-great elephant, which, however, decayed and fell some
-fifty years ago. The native name of the island means
-“the town of excavations.”</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-Map of Bombay
-Presidency, Nizam’s
-Territory, and
-Maratha Country.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-The Satara Hills,
-Maratha Country.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-Native Plough,
-Maratha Country.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now let us journey inland, up the Ghats, through
-their thick forests, and if it be the rainy season, past rushing
-waterfalls, until surmounting the brink top we come out
-on to the plain of the tableland, and into the relative
-drought of the upper climate. This is the
-Maratha country, and here we have a
-typical view of the open landscape which
-it presents. The hills in the distance
-are the Satara hills, extending west
-and east through the heart of India.
-Here is another view in this same
-Maratha Country. It shows a native
-plough at work, and in the background
-one of the table-topped mountains, which
-are studded over the surface of the generally
-level plateau, not unlike the kopjes of South Africa.
-These steep-sided isolated mountain blocks have often
-served as strongholds in warfare, and many of them are
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>noted in connection with the Maratha wars, waged in this
-part of India a little more than a century ago under the
-lead of Sir Arthur Wellesley, afterwards the great Duke of
-Wellington. At the foot of the mountain may just be seen
-one of the Towers of Silence of the Parsis.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Maratha Soldier.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Map of the Maratha
-Dominions at their
-greatest extent.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Marathas are a people of Hindu religion and
-Marathi language, which is akin, as
-we learned in the last lecture, to the
-Hindi of the United Provinces. Some
-four generations ago they raided most of
-India from their home on this high plateau of the
-Western Deccan, and the troops of the East India
-Company had to wage three successive wars with them.
-Had it not been for the British victory, there can be
-little doubt that the Marathas would have established an
-Empire in India. Their homeland round the city of
-Poona now forms the main portion of the Province of
-Bombay, but Maratha princes still rule large conquered
-countries as feudatories of the King-Emperor.
-This map shows us the
-dominion of the Marathas at its greatest
-extent, near the end of the eighteenth
-century, when they were the dominant warlike race of India.
-Their original home was not far from Poona. As they spread,
-five principal officers of court and state took the place of the
-dynasty of the Rajas, which became decrepit. These were
-the Peshwa, the Gaikwar, Sindhia, Holkar, and the Bhonsla.
-These five great chiefs conquered far and wide through all
-the heart of India. Sindhia’s dominions extended northward
-to Delhi, and Bhonsla’s eastward to Orissa on the east coast.
-The Peshwa was on the plateau round Poona. Holkar
-was seated at Indore between the Peshwa and Sindhia,
-and the Gaikwar at Baroda, in the fertile lowland round the
-head of the gulf of Cambay. At times there was rivalry and war
-between them, but with the exception of the Peshwa they were
-united by French intrigue in the time of Napoleon, with
-the result that we had to fight between the years 1803 and
-1805 the most widespread war which we have ever fought
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>in India. Our generals were Lake and Wellesley. The
-most brilliant victory was that of Assaye, in the plateau
-country just north of Poona. There, with three thousand
-troops, Wellesley defeated Sindhia’s army of twenty
-thousand men, organised by French officers, and captured
-an artillery of a hundred guns. Peace was made with the
-conquered Marathas about the time when Trafalgar was
-fought, and it was stipulated that they were for the future to
-allow no European influence in their States except the British.
-There was a subsequent Maratha war, but the great war just
-referred to was the most serious crisis through which the
-British rule in India has had to pass, perhaps not even
-excepting the Mutiny of 1857.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Marathas are of Hindu religion, but the caste
-system is not with them carried to the extreme that prevails
-among other Hindus. They present, in fact, the nearest
-approach to a national caste. As we shall learn presently,
-Sindhia, Holkar, and the Gaikwar still rule great territories
-as Feudatory Princes, but Nagpur, the Bhonsla’s capital, is
-now the chief town of the Central Provinces of British India,
-and Poona, the capital of the Peshwa, is the seat of the
-Bombay Government during part of the year.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-Political Map of
-Bombay Province
-and Central India.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In contrast with the last map, showing the extent of the
-former Maratha Dominions, we have here a map of the
-central parts of India as they are to-day,
-with the Province of Bombay ruled directly
-by the British Government marked in red,
-and also the Central Provinces under direct
-British rule from Nagpur, but in addition it will be seen that
-in blue colour there are two patches of territory northeastward
-of Bombay, which bear the inscription Central India,
-a term to be carefully distinguished from the Central
-Provinces.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-Scene near
-Hyderabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-Street Scene, in
-Hyderabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-The Nizam’s Palace,
-Hyderabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Central India consists of Native Feudatory States,
-which acknowledge the British suzerainty, but are immediately
-ruled by their own Maharajas, of whom the two most
-important are the Maratha princes Holkar at Indore, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>Sindhia at Gwalior. There is another larger patch of
-blue, southeastward of Bombay. This is the State of
-Hyderabad, ruled under British suzerainty by the Nizam.
-This great prince is however no Maratha, but a Musulman.
-His people for the most part speak the Dravidian
-language Telugu, and are Hindu by religion. Thus we
-see that none of these large states, each as important
-as one of the smaller European kingdoms, has for its
-ruler a man of the same race as the people. Sindhia
-and Holkar are Marathas ruling Hindi
-populations; the Nizam is a Musulman
-ruling Telugu-speaking Hindus.
-The Gaikwar of Baroda, it may be
-added, who governs a small but very
-rich and populous territory, is a Maratha
-ruling a Gujrati population. We have
-here a typical landscape in the Nizam’s
-territory, and see that it is not very
-different from the Maratha landscapes.
-It is on the same open Deccan plateau. This is a scene
-in Hyderabad itself, showing a procession of elephants,
-and then we see the Nizam’s Palace.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-Golkonda Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Next we have a view of Golkonda Fort, placed on one
-of the usual flat-topped hills, and defended
-on one side by a large sheet of water.
-Golkonda is in the neighbourhood of
-Hyderabad, the capital of the Nizam’s dominions. Its name
-has become proverbial as indicative of immense wealth.
-Formerly it was the great Indian centre of diamond cutting
-and polishing, or in other words the Amsterdam of India.
-The diamonds were not found in the immediate neighbourhood,
-but in the extreme southeastern corner of the
-Nizam’s territory.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-The Same, nearer
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-A Bastion
-at the top of
-Golkonda Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-View from Golkonda
-Fort, looking
-Northeast.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-Hindu Temple,
-Golkonda Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-Musulman
-Mosque,
-Golkonda Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here is a nearer view of Golkonda Fort, and here a
-view over the plain, from the bastion at the
-top of the Fort, from which can be seen
-the Tombs of the Kings about half a
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>mile away. These kings belonged to a
-great Musulman dynasty which ruled
-here during the sixteenth and seventeenth
-centuries, until it was overthrown by
-Aurangzeb. Next we have, near the
-summit of the Fort, the ruins of a Hindu
-temple, and close by, shown in the following
-slide, the remains of a Muhammadan
-mosque. The Fort, therefore, in its
-ruins, records the essential history of the
-country, first the Hindu civilization, and
-then two successive Musulman conquests.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-Mahbub College,
-Secunderabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-Ploughing at
-Agricultural School
-at Aurangabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-A Queen’s Boy at
-the same School.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Some of these Feudatory Native States do not lag
-far behind the territories directly ruled by British officials.
-Western civilization is permeating all India under
-the British suzerainty. At Secunderabad and Aurangabad,
-places in the Nizam’s Dominions, are, for instance,
-Agricultural and Industrial Schools. Here is a group
-of students at the Mahbub College,
-Secunderabad, and here a view taken at
-the Agricultural School at Aurangabad,
-which shows some of the students
-ploughing. One of the gentlemen in
-the foreground is the Director of Public
-Instruction in the Nizam’s State, and
-by his side is the Superintendent of
-the School. Then we see an orphan
-student, a “Queen’s boy.” He will
-probably settle down in a year or two’s
-time, very likely marrying one of the
-“Queen’s girls.” With a portion of his scholarship saved
-up for him, he will purchase the necessary bullocks
-and plough. He came to the college from the Victoria
-Memorial Orphanage, where each child is trained in his
-own religion.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-Kinkob
-Loom,
-Secunderabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-Carpenters at
-Aurangabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the midst, however, of this rapid advance we
-still find the older methods. Here at Secunderabad
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>is a Kinkob loom of the old pattern.
-Kinkob work is made of gold and silver
-thread. The boy sitting above is controlling
-the threads, and helps to make the pattern by
-raising or lowering them in the warp. The boy sitting
-below in the well is working the shuttles.
-This is a street scene in Aurangabad
-showing natives of the carpenter caste
-sawing timber.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-The Tomb of the
-Saint, Roza.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-Roza Fair.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-Daulatabad, from
-the Road to Roza.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Another aspect of life in the Deccan of India is shown
-in the next slide, where round the tomb
-of a saint at a place called Roza is
-gathered the camp of a fair. A saint of
-great renown among the Musulmans
-was buried here in the fourteenth century, and deposited within
-the shrine are some hairs alleged to be from Muhammad’s
-beard. There follow two slides showing
-the usual amusements of the fair, in the
-latter of which we see a merry-go-round
-not at all unlike those typical of the
-country fairs of England. Next we have
-a view taken on the road from Roza, and
-in the distance can be seen the hill fort
-of Daulatabad, built in the thirteenth
-century on a great isolated mass of granite
-about five hundred feet high. In this fort was imprisoned
-and died the last King of Golkonda, and it became the
-favourite summer resort of his Mogul conqueror,
-Aurangzeb.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 27.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The upland which fills most of the centre of India and
-bears in its midst the Nizam’s Dominions is in most parts
-of no great fertility. Over large areas it is fitted rather for
-the pasture of horses and cattle than for the plough.
-Agriculture is naturally best in the river valleys, but there
-is one large district lying on the plateau top east of Bombay,
-and on the hill tops about the Narbada valley east of Baroda,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>which is of a most singular fertility. The
-usually granitic and schistose rocks of the
-plateau have here been overlaid by great
-sheets of basaltic lava. Detached portions
-of these lava beds form the table tops of the hills in
-the country rendered famous by Wellesley’s Maratha
-campaigns. The lava disintegrates into a tenacious
-black soil, which does not fall into dust during the dry
-season, but cracks into great blocks, which remain
-moist. As the dry season advances these blocks shrink,
-and the cracks grow broader, so that finally it is dangerous
-for a horse to gallop over the plain lest its hoof should be
-caught in one of these openings of the ground.</p>
-<p class='c024'>This remarkable earth is known as the Black Cotton Soil.
-The cotton seeds are sown after the rains, and as the young
-plant grows a clod of earth forms round its roots, which is
-separated from the next similar clod by cracks. Wheat is
-grown on this soil in the same manner, being sown after the
-rainy season and reaped in the beginning of the hot season,
-so that from beginning to end the crop is produced without
-exposure to rain, being drawn up by the brilliant sunshine
-and fed at the root by the moisture preserved in the
-heavy soil.</p>
-<p class='c024'>Thus in the part of India which lies immediately east,
-northeast, and north of Bombay the lowlands and the
-uplands are alike fertile—the lowlands round Ahmadabad
-and Baroda and in the valleys of the Narbada and Tapti
-Rivers because of their alluvial soil, and the uplands round
-Poona and Indore because they are clothed with the
-volcanic cotton soil.</p>
-<p class='c024'>Just within the northwestern corner of the Nizam’s
-territory are the famous rock temples of Ellora, perhaps
-the most magnificent of their kind in the world. The
-sculpture is of Brahman, Buddhist, and Jain dates, the
-monuments of various religions being thus as it were
-imposed upon one another.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'><span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-Entry to Jain
-Caves, Ellora.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-Jain Caves,
-Ellora.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-The Juggernath
-Temple, Jain Caves,
-Ellora.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-The Kailas Caves,
-Ellora.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-Buddhist Temple,
-Ellora Caves.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-The Carpenter
-Cave, Ellora.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-This is the entry to the Jain part of
-the Ellora caves, and this is the
-interior of one of the Jain caves, story
-above story. The niches are full of
-statues, many of them in perfect condition.
-Here we have two views of the
-magnificent Juggernath Temple. Next, in
-the dim light, we realize something of the
-internal structure of the Brahman section
-of the caves. Notice the two men whose
-height enables you to judge of the scale.
-These are among the finest of all the
-monuments of antiquity in India. Here
-is a view taken on the floor of the
-Buddhist Temple, with large figures of
-Buddha seated on a throne, and there
-follows a view in another cave showing
-the beautifully carved roof. It will be
-seen then that in these Ellora caves
-several religions have contributed, the
-Jain no less than the Buddhist and
-the Hindu.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Jains rose in the time of Buddha, five hundred years
-before Christ. That was a time of religious stir in India,
-which resulted in various revolts against the Brahmanical
-system. The Jain tenets are not unlike those of the
-Buddhists. They believe in the universal soul, and in the
-transmigration of souls, so that a man’s soul may pass
-into an animal. Their regard for animal life, for this
-reason so general in India, is carried to an extreme. The
-Jains were strongest in Western India, and they are still
-present there, although now in a very small minority.
-They probably total to-day not more than a million and
-a half, and are perhaps most numerous at Ahmadabad.
-Of their great temples at Mount Abu we shall hear presently.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-The Mecca Gate,
-Aurangabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-The Mausoleum
-of Rubia-ud-Daurani.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In order to complete the range of the architectures
-of India, there follow two specimens of the Muhammadan
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>buildings of the state of Hyderabad. First we see the
-Mecca Gate at Aurangabad, with the
-Mecca Bridge underneath it, and then
-we have the Mausoleum of Rubia-ud-Daurani,
-the wife of Aurangzeb. The
-door of the gateway is of brass and all
-the domes are of marble. The building
-has recently been restored by the
-Government of the Nizam, and is now
-probably second only to the Taj Mahal at Agra among
-the Muhammadan buildings of India.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 32.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Finally, we must note that a portion of the Bombay
-Presidency lies far away to the northwest, detached from
-the remainder. This is the province of Sind, for the most
-part a desert area, but containing the delta of the river
-Indus, which is a second Egypt in fertility,
-for there the alluvium brought down
-by the great river from the distant
-Himalaya mountains is deposited, and
-water is available by irrigation from the same distant
-source. Curiously, Sind resembles Egypt in its human
-settlements. At the head of the delta where the distributaries
-divide, and therefore at the lowest convenient
-crossing place of the river, is situated the city of
-Hyderabad, corresponding to Cairo, and on the sea front
-westward of the deltaic mouths is Karachi, corresponding to
-Alexandria.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 27.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Sind was conquered by Sir Charles
-Napier in 1843. The Sindi population is
-for the most part Musulman, and engaged
-in agriculture, but the significance of Sind
-has altered since it was first added to the directly ruled British
-territories. At first communication with the Punjab was
-relatively difficult, for the Indus is not navigated with the
-same ease as is the Ganges. In the days before railways
-it was therefore natural that the new province should be
-administered from Bombay by means of sea communications.
-To-day, however, with the construction of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>North Western Railway from Karachi up the river Indus,
-the commercial relations of Sind have come to be with the
-Punjab, of which Karachi is now the great port, although
-it is still subordinate to Bombay for purposes of government.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>It is interesting and significant to observe that the coastline
-of all India is now under direct British rule, except for
-the little States of Cochin and Travancore, in the far south,
-near Cape Comorin, and the peninsula of Kathiawar and the
-island of Cutch, which are divided among a multitude of
-petty chieftains subordinate to the Government of Bombay.
-Thus the larger Native States, being isolated from the sea,
-there is little fear of foreign intrigue in India such as
-we had to contend with during the French wars. There
-are a few diminutive scraps of territory belonging to the
-French and Portuguese Governments, but these are too
-insignificant to break the general rule, and moreover they
-are engirt landward by directly ruled British territory. The
-largest of them is at Goa, on the west coast, south of
-Bombay, the last remnant of the great Portuguese dominion
-in the Indies.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE VI.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>RAJPUTANA.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE FEUDATORY STATES.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of India,
-Distinguishing
-Rajputana.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the centre of northwestern India
-is a group of large native States known
-as Rajputana, of the greatest historical
-interest. These States are inhabited by
-ancient Hindu Aryan tribes, collectively
-known as Rajputs, which literally means “of princely
-descent.” They represent the purest and most ancient
-Indian stock, and here, almost alone of the larger native
-States, the Chiefs belong to the same race as their people.
-Rajputana suffered much from the Musulmans, but was
-never completely conquered by them, a fact in part due
-to the physical character of the country.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Map of
-Northwestern
-India.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Through the centre of Rajputana,
-diagonally from the southwest northeastward,
-there runs the range of the
-Aravalli hills for a distance of fully three
-hundred miles, its northern extremity being the Ridge at
-Delhi on the Jumna River. At the southern end of the
-Aravallis, but separated from the main range by a hollow,
-is the isolated Mount Abu, the highest point in Rajputana,
-standing up conspicuously above the surrounding plains
-to a height of some five thousand feet. The top is a
-rugged plateau measuring fourteen miles by four. On
-this little upland, are the signs both of the antiquity
-and modernity of Rajputana—on the one hand, the world-famed
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>ruins of Jain temples, and on the other, round the
-beautiful Gem Lake, the residences of the Agent of the
-Governor-General and his staff, who maintain the suzerainty
-of the King-Emperor in Rajputana. East of the Aravalli
-hills, in the basin of the Chambal tributary of the Jumna-Ganges,
-is the more fertile part of Rajputana, with the cities
-of Jaipur, Ajmer, Udaipur, and the old fortress of Chitor.
-Beyond the Chambal River itself, but within its basin, may
-be seen on the map the positions of Indore and Gwalior,
-the seats of the Maratha princes Holkar and Sindhia.
-Indore and Gwalior, however, belong to the Central Indian
-Agency and not to Rajputana. West of the Aravalli hills
-is the great Indian Desert, prolonged seaward by the salt
-and partly tidal marsh known as the Rann of Cutch. In
-oases of this desert are some of the smaller Rajput capitals,
-notably Bikaner. Beyond the desert flows the great Indus
-river, through a dry although not wholly desert land, in the
-midst of which, from Hyderabad to the sea, is the delta of
-Sind, as was said in the last lecture, a second Egypt, fertile
-and thickly peopled. South of Mount Abu, where the
-rivers descend from the end of the Aravalli hills to the
-Gulf of Cambay is another fertile lowland, with the beautiful
-city of Ahmadabad in the centre of it, but this city
-is in British territory, being in the Province of Bombay,
-and therefore outside the Tributary States of Rajputana.
-Ajmer, beside the Aravalli hills, is in an island of directly
-ruled British territory completely surrounded by Feudatory
-Rajputana.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>It would be difficult to exaggerate the importance to
-India of the existence of the great Indian Desert of Rajputana.
-The ocean to the southeast and the southwest of the
-Peninsula was an ample protection against overseas invasion
-until the Europeans rounded the Cape of Good Hope. The
-vast length of the Himalaya, backed by the desert plateau of
-Tibet, was an equal defence on a third side. Only to the
-northwest does India lie relatively open to the incursions
-of the warlike peoples of Western and Central Asia. It
-is precisely in that direction, as a great barrier extending
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>northeastward from the Rann of Cutch, that we find the
-Indian Desert, and in rear of the Desert the minor bulwark
-constituted by the Aravalli range. Only between the
-northeastern extremity of the desert and the foot of the
-Himalayas below Simla is there an easy gateway into India.
-No river traverses this gateway, which is on the divide
-between the systems of the Indus and the Jumna-Ganges.
-Delhi stands on the west bank of the Jumna at the
-northern extremity of the Aravallis, just where the invading
-forces from the northwest came through to the
-navigable waters of the Jumna, which flow southeastward
-through Hindustan to Bengal.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Aided by such powerful natural conditions, the Rajputs
-have ever been the defenders of India. Unable to prevent
-the entry of invaders by the direct way to Delhi, they
-have maintained themselves on the southern flank of the
-advance, and to-day their princely families proudly trace
-their lineage back in unbroken descent from ancestors
-before the Christian era. In the gateway itself, between the
-desert and the Himalayas, beyond the limits of Rajputana,
-dwell another people of warlike disposition, the famous
-Sikhs. Here are still preserved as Feudatory States the Sikh
-Principalities of Patiala, Nabha, and Jhind.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-Jama Masjid,
-Ahmadabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-Rani Sipri’s Tomb,
-Ahmadabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Mohafiz Khan’s
-Mosque,
-Ahmadabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Hathi Singh’s
-Temple,
-Ahmadabad.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us first visit Ahmadabad, in the midst of the fertile
-lowland at the head of the Gulf of Cambay. The
-territories of this part of the Bombay Presidency are much
-mixed with those of the Gaikwar of Baroda, so that the
-map of the plains round the two cities of Ahmadabad and
-Baroda almost resembles that part of Scotland which is
-labelled Ross and Cromarty. Ahmadabad was once the
-most important Mohammedan city of Western India, and
-contains many fine architectural monuments, surpassed
-only by those of the great Mogul capitals, Delhi and
-Agra. It is reached from Bombay by
-the Bombay and Baroda Railway along
-the coast northward. We have here the
-Jama Masjid or Great Mosque of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>city, still one of the most beautiful in
-India, though it was damaged by an
-earthquake about a century ago. Then
-we have another fine building, Rani
-Sipri’s Tomb. There follows a view of
-Mohafiz Khan’s Mosque, whose fine
-minarets remind one of the Citadel at
-Cairo. Finally, just outside Ahmadabad,
-is the comparatively modern Temple of
-Hathi Singh, built of white marble in the
-Jain style, with many domes.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-The Lake,
-Mount Abu.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-From Ahmadabad the Baroda Railway is continued northward
-and westward across the southern end of the Rajput
-Desert to Hyderabad, in Sind, but we will go on our journey
-by the narrow gauge railway through
-Rajputana to Mount Abu, which rises
-like an island of granite from amid the
-sandy desert. Here is the Gem Lake
-on the summit of the mountain, a most beautiful sheet of
-water, set with rocky islets and overhung with great masses
-of rock, with the Residency or house of the representative
-of the British Government on its shore, for Mount Abu is
-the centre from which Rajputana is controlled, as far as is
-necessary, by the advice of the Viceroy. It is, as we have
-already said, about 5,000 feet or a mile above the sea level,
-and the climate is therefore suitable for a hill station.
-It is used as a sanatorium for British troops and as a hot
-season resort.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-The Dilwarra
-Temples,
-Mount Abu.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-The Same,
-nearer view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-Door of the Adinat,
-Mount Abu.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-Sava Munda,
-Mount Abu.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-The Same,
-another view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-Paras Wanath
-Temple, Mount Abu.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Mount Abu is famous for its Dilwarra
-temples, probably the most ancient
-of the Jain temples of India. We
-heard of the Jains at the close of
-the last lecture. This is a distant view
-of the Dilwarra temples among the palm
-trees. We see that the surface of the
-plateau is very rugged. Here is a nearer
-view of the temples, and here a doorway
-of the most ancient of them, built probably
-about the time of the Norman Conquest
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>of England. Next we have two views of
-another temple, erected some two hundred
-years later. The carving of the small
-domes and vaults is most delicate, and
-stands almost unrivalled even in India, a
-land essentially of painstaking labour in
-small details. Finally, we have a view of
-yet another temple, said to have been built
-by the workmen in their spare time during
-the erection of the greater temples we
-have just seen. In spite of the dilapidation
-of many centuries, and of unskilled restoration in
-places, these ruins are still extremely beautiful amid the
-rugged scenery of the Mount. The British Station on
-Mount Abu was attacked during the Mutiny, but the
-attack was beaten off.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-Sir Pratab Singh.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-Dolat Singh.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-Himat Singh.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-One of the most progressive of the
-Rajput States, and the oldest, is Jodhpur,
-whose Prime Minister was, until lately,
-the distinguished officer Sir Pratab Singh,
-now Maharaja of his own little State of
-Idar, in the plain at the foot of Mount
-Abu. We have his portrait here, and
-those of his son and grandson.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-H.H. The Maharana
-of Udaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-The Palace,
-Udaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-Udaipur, from the
-Jag Mandar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-Jag Mandar,
-Udaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-Jag Newas,
-Udaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Udaipur is the capital of another of the greater Rajput
-States, Mewar, which was founded in the
-Roman times of European chronology.
-This is a portrait of the Maharana
-of Udaipur, who is the highest in
-esteem of all the Rajput princes.
-Udaipur is one of the most beautiful
-cities in India, with its palaces and
-ghats reflected in the clear waters of
-a lake. Here are two views of the
-palace of the Maharana, built of granite
-and marble, rising to a hundred feet
-above the surface of the lake. Here we
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>have the city seen across the lake, and
-then there follow two views showing the
-temples and terraces by the water’s edge.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-The Ganesh Gate,
-Chitor.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-The Tower of
-Victory, Chitor.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-East of Udaipur city, but in the same State, is the rock
-fortress of Chitor, anciently the capital, a most conspicuous
-object, standing high and isolated above the surrounding
-country. The slopes of the hill are covered with a thick
-jungle, and the summit is crowned with ruins of palaces and
-temples. The road which leads up to the top is about
-a mile in length, and on it at intervals are seven gateways.
-We have here a view of one of them, the
-Ganesh Gate. This roadway was the
-scene of a terrible struggle in the middle
-of the 16th century, when the invading Musulmans
-under Akbar attacked the Rajput stronghold. The citadel
-was at length taken, but the Rajputs sold their freedom
-dearly, nearly ten thousand of them falling in the battle.
-The old city of Chitor is now decayed and reduced to a
-mere village, but it still contains interesting ruins, notably
-the two Jain Towers of Victory and Fame. The Tower of
-Fame is the older, built in the time of our King Alfred.
-This is a view of the Tower of Victory,
-built in the early 15th century. It
-has nine stories. A stairway in the
-centre leads to the top. The dome has recently been
-restored, having been wrecked by lightning.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-The Durga,
-Ajmer.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-The Same, The Tomb
-of Chisti.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-The Arhai-Din-Ka-Jhompra,
-Ajmer.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-The Lake,
-Ajmer.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-The Durga Bazaar,
-Ajmer.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Mayo College,
-Ajmer.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Ajmer, now under direct British rule, is another ancient
-and beautiful spot, set in a hollow among low hills, and
-surrounded by a wall. It was the scene of many struggles
-between the Musulmans and the Rajputs, and was
-finally taken by Akbar in the middle of the 16th century.
-One of the principal buildings is the
-Durga, venerated both by Hindus and by
-Musulmans. We have here a view
-of the courtyard of the Durga. Notice
-to the right hand the huge metal cauldron set in stone. It
-is used for the cooking of rice given in charity, which is
-divided between poor pilgrims and the attendants at the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>shrine. Here is the Tomb of Chisti in
-the Durga. Next is a Muhammadan
-Mosque, called the Arhai-Din-Ka-Jhompra,
-which, tradition says, was built with divine
-assistance in two and a half days. Then
-we have a view of the lake at Ajmer. On
-the bank are a number of marble pavilions.
-This is one of them. Close by, on
-a small hill overlooking the lake, is
-the house of the Chief Commissioner
-of Ajmer, and Agent to the Governor-General
-for Rajputana. Here we have
-a street in Ajmer. And here is the
-Mayo College, for the education of the
-sons of the Rajput chiefs, an institution
-of the greatest importance, as it were the loyal Eton of
-India, for the Rajput Maharajas have the deepest instinct of
-personal loyalty to the Suzerain Lord, a result at once of
-their feudal pride, their religion, and their intelligence as
-rulers. The College was opened in 1875, and contains
-about a hundred students. The main building, seen in this
-view, is of white marble.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Chand Pol Gate,
-Jaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-A Street in Jaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-Chand Pol Bazaar,
-Jaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-A Wool Cart,
-Jaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Next we visit Jaipur, a walled city surrounded by rocky
-hills crowned with forts, the capital and residence of the
-Maharaja of Jaipur State, the best governed
-of all the Rajput States. This is one
-of the entrance gates, and through the
-archway may be seen the crenellated wall
-of the city, with thatched huts built
-against it. Here is a street within the
-city, with a fort-crowned rock visible at
-the end of it, and here is the Bazaar.
-Jaipur has a modern aspect, for it is a
-busy and prosperous commercial centre.
-Here is a wool cart in the city. The
-streets are broad—perhaps the broadest
-in the world—and cross one another
-at right angles, and at night are well lighted with gas.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-The Samrat Yantra,
-Jaipur Observatory.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-One of the most interesting of the old Indian
-observatories, with great stone instruments, even larger
-than those of Benares, is in this city. It was constructed
-at the beginning of the 18th century, and has recently been
-restored by the progressive Maharaja.
-This is the great Samrat Yantra, or
-sundial, the largest in the world. The
-gnomon is 75 feet in height. Notice how
-small in comparison is the keeper of the observatory, who
-may be seen standing just outside the line of the shadow on
-the circumference of the dial. In the distance, above some
-dwelling houses, is visible the clock-tower of the Maharaja’s
-palace, the time of which is regulated by this sundial.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-The Palace Gardens,
-Jaipur—Crocodiles.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-The Same, Tomb of
-a pet dog.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-Flamingoes at
-Jaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-Sita Ranji Temple,
-Jaipur.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The palace stands amid beautiful gardens.
-We have here a tank in these gardens
-showing the Maharaja’s crocodiles, and
-here is the tomb among the trees of one of
-the late Maharaja’s pet dogs. Outside the
-city walls are fine public gardens, covering
-some forty acres, containing an aviary and
-menagerie. Here is a group of flamingoes,
-caught in the neighbourhood. Finally,
-we have one of the temples in the city,
-built of red sandstone and finely carved.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-The Lake and
-Palace, Amber.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-Shish Mahal, Amber.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-The Palace,
-Alwar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-The Same from
-above.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-A few miles from Jaipur is Amber, the
-ancient capital of Jaipur State, but now
-abandoned and in ruins. Here we have
-a view of the old Palace and the Lake,
-and here one of the many fine buildings,
-the Shish Mahal. Next we see the Palace
-at Alwar, a comparatively modern city,
-the present capital of the State of Alwar,
-and then we have a view over the palace
-looking down from the hill above.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-City Gate, Bikaner.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-Jain Temple,
-Bhandashar, Bikaner.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-Bikaner from the
-Jain Temple.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-Street in Bikaner.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-Grain Sellers,
-Bikaner.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-Bikaner Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now we visit Bikaner, in an oasis of
-the northwestern desert. This is the city
-gate, with a level railway crossing in
-front. Notice the camel waiting for the passing of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>train, and the water-carriers. Here of course water is a
-valuable commodity. The district of which Bikaner is the
-centre suffers frequently from famine owing to drought. Then
-we have a Jain temple crowning a rocky
-mound, and from the terrace of this
-temple we obtain a view over the city,
-with its flat roofs and desert spaces. There
-follows a view in one of the narrow streets,
-showing the carved front of a house
-belonging to one of the richer Jains of
-the city. Finally we have a typical group
-of grain sellers in front of the Customs
-House, and a view of the Fort.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-H.H. The Raja
-of Nabha and his
-ministers.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-H.H. The Raja
-of Nabha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-The Palace of the
-Crown Prince of
-Nabha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-Sirdar Fateh Singh.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-Sikhs at Nabha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-An Akali at Nabha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br /> The Chief Justice
-of Nabha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-Sirdar Bisham
-Singh.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-On our way northeastward we will next visit the city of
-Nabha, though it is the centre of a Sikh and not of a
-Rajput State. Here is the Raja of
-Nabha surrounded by his Council of
-Ministers, and here his portrait. Then
-we have in the distance the palace of the
-Crown Prince of Nabha, seen from the
-roof of Elgin House, the home of the
-British Resident. Next there follow a
-series of portraits. The first is of a young
-princeling. The second is of a group of
-Sikhs; in front is a priest, and to the
-right, in black, an Akali, or warrior-monk.
-There follows another slide showing one
-of these Akalis in ancient fighting costume.
-Then we have, by way of contrast, the
-very up to date Chief Justice of Nabha,
-but notice in the background sentry duty
-economically performed by a pasteboard
-soldier! Here is a typical Sikh face,
-that of the Vakil to the Political Agent
-at the British Residency.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 2.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Finally, we will cross the Chambal
-river and, leaving Rajputana, will enter
-Central India, and visit the two cities
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>of Gwalior and Indore, the capitals of the Maratha
-Princes Sindhia and Holkar. Gwalior lies a little south
-of Delhi and Agra. The city is dominated by an isolated
-rock fort, flat-topped and steep-sided, more than three
-hundred feet in height. There is but a single road up,
-and along this road are six successive gates, arranged
-as at the fort of Chitor in Rajputana. Sindhia captured
-Gwalior rather more than a hundred years ago. When the
-Indian Mutiny broke out his people, being of Hindi race,
-of the same kin therefore as the people of Agra and Oudh,
-revolted and joined the mutineers, but Sindhia and his
-Maratha officers remained loyal and escaped to British
-protection.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-The Fort,
-Gwalior.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Gwalior was the scene of the last episodes in the Indian
-Mutiny. Driven from Delhi and from around Cawnpore
-and Lucknow, the mutineers marched in 1858 against
-Sindhia, who met them in battle, but was defeated. Then
-General Sir Hugh Rose followed them up in what is known
-as the Central Indian campaign, and
-defeated them at Gwalior. The fort of
-Gwalior itself was taken by a remarkable
-feat of daring. Two British subalterns with
-a blacksmith and an outpost force picked the locks of the first
-five gateways up the road entry before they were discovered.
-They stormed the last gate, one of them being killed. So
-Gwalior Fort was taken, and for a generation was garrisoned
-by British troops, but about twenty years ago it was
-restored to the Maharaja Sindhia.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-Holkar’s Palace,
-Indore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Indore lies in the land of Malwa, a
-considerable distance south of Gwalior
-and on high ground about the sources of
-the Chambal river. The Governor-General’s
-Agent for Central India has his residence here by
-treaty, and close at hand is now the army cantonment of
-Mhow. At the time of the Mutiny some of Holkar’s
-infantry attacked the Residency, and as the Resident,
-Sir Henry Durand, had only twenty men to defend it, he
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>was compelled to retreat with some women and children.
-But it was soon recovered and nothing very serious ensued
-in this part of India.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Rajputana Agency is as large as the whole British
-Isles, but it contains only about ten million people, since a
-great part of it is desert. The Central Indian Agency is
-about as large as England and Scotland without Wales.
-It has a population only a little smaller than that of
-Rajputana. We may measure the significance of the
-more important chiefs in these two Agencies by the fact
-that Sindhia rules a country little less, either in area or
-population, than the Kingdom of Scotland.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Native States of India, of which we have seen a series
-of examples, occupy about a third of the area of the whole
-country, and contain about one-fifth of the population.
-They represent in their present secure position a new phase
-of Anglo-Indian policy. The Indian Mutiny closed a
-period characterised by successive great annexations to the
-territory directly ruled by Britain. Since the Mutiny
-there has been no acquisition of directly ruled provinces,
-except in Burma. Therein the policy of the Empire
-differs markedly from that of the old East India Company.
-The King-Emperor now guarantees the privileges and
-separate modes of rule in the Feudatory States. As a
-result, there are no more loyal supporters of the British
-Raj than these great native chiefs, who in recent years
-have raised an army of Imperial Service Troops, to reinforce
-the Indian and British armies for the defence of the
-Empire and the maintenance of internal order.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-Political Map of
-India.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us cast our eye over the map
-and enumerate the principal divisions of
-India. Under direct British rule are in
-the south Madras and in the east Burma.
-Then in succession through the plain at the foot of the
-Himalayas are Eastern Bengal and Assam; Bengal; the
-United Provinces of Agra and Oudh; and the Punjab.
-In the east centre round Nagpur are the Central Provinces,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>and in the west is the Presidency of Bombay, with the
-detached territory of Sind on the lower Indus. On
-the Northwestern Frontier are British Baluchistan and the
-Northwest Frontier Province, while in the midst of
-Rajputana is the little district of Ajmer, and away
-in the south amid the forests of the Western Ghats the
-little district of Coorg. Ceylon, as was said in the first
-lecture, though British, is not a part of India, but a
-separate Crown Colony. All these Provinces are directly
-administered by the British Civil Service.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Now consider the Feudatory States. In the far south,
-from Cape Comorin along the west coast, we have the two
-little countries of Travancore and Cochin, ruled by Hindu
-Maharajas. They are far removed from all the greater
-problems of Indian Government, remote homes of the
-caste system in its most stringent form, and also, curiously,
-of a most ancient form of Christianity introduced long
-centuries ago from Nestorian sources in Western Asia.
-Then, north of the Nilgiri hills and the hill station of
-Ootacamund, is the State of Mysore, high on the plateau,
-completely surrounded by British territory of the Provinces
-of Madras, Bombay, and Coorg. The Maharaja here is a
-Hindu in religion, and the people are chiefly Hindu.
-Northward again, and still on the Deccan plateau, is the
-largest and most important native State of India, ruled from
-Hyderabad by the Nizam, a Musulman, who administers a
-country largely of Hindu religion. Then we have the two
-great groups of States, whose relations with the Empire are
-conducted by the Agencies of Central India and Rajputana.
-The most important of the Central Indian chiefs are Holkar
-and Sindhia, Marathas in a Hindi-speaking country, though
-in faith Hindus like their subjects. In Rajputana are the
-Rajput States of which we have spoken in this lecture.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>It will be observed that, with the small exceptions
-of Travancore and Cochin, all the States thus far
-enumerated lie inland and are surrounded by British
-territory directly administered. The remaining native
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>states form a fringe along the northern and northwestern
-borders. To the northeast amid the foot hills of the
-Himalayas are in succession, from east to west, Bhutan,
-Sikkim, and Nepal. Of these, Nepal stands outside the Indian
-Protectorate in a special relation of independent alliance
-with the British Government. In the far north is the
-state of Kashmir, whose centre is a beautiful valley, with a
-lake in its midst, deeply sunk amid the Himalayan ranges
-proper. A part of the foot hills on the one hand and a
-length of the Tibetan Indus on the other hand are also
-included within the territory ruled by the Maharaja of
-Kashmir. To the northwest are the Pathan and Baluchi
-hill tribes in relation with the North West Frontier Province
-and British Baluchistan.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Such a survey as that which we have thus rapidly made
-gives perhaps the best idea of the complexity and vastness of
-the Indian Political System. The Indian Empire is in fact
-not a country but, as the inhabitants of the United States
-say of their own land, a sub-continent, and as regards
-everything but mere area the expression is far more true
-of India than of the United States, for in the United
-States a single race and a single religion are dominant,
-but in India a long history lives to this day in the most
-striking social contrasts, presenting all manner of problems
-which it will take generations to solve.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE VII.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>DELHI.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE MUHAMMADAN RELIGION.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c010'>
- <div>LIST OF THE MOGUL EMPERORS FROM</div>
- <div>HUMAYUN TO AURANGZEB.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<table class='table1' summary=''>
-<colgroup>
-<col width='60%' />
-<col width='40%' />
-</colgroup>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Humayun</span></td>
- <td class='c033'>1530-1540</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class='c033'>1555-1556</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Akbar</span></td>
- <td class='c033'>1556-1605</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Jehangir</span></td>
- <td class='c033'>1605-1627</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Shah Jahan</span></td>
- <td class='c033'>1627-1658</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Aurangzeb</span></td>
- <td class='c033'>1658-1707</td>
- </tr>
-</table>
-<hr class='c036' />
-<p class='c020'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Map of
-Northern India.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Once more we look at the map of
-Northern India. We realise the great
-mountain wall of the Himalayas, four
-and five miles high, curving through
-fifteen hundred miles along the northeast frontier of the
-Indian lowland. Behind the Himalayas is the Tibetan
-plateau, three miles in average elevation. Northwestward
-of India there is another plateau, but a lower one than
-Tibet, and the mountain ranges which divide it from
-the Indian plain are lower than the Himalayas. Observe
-the great series of streams which emerge from the
-Himalayas, and gather on the one hand into the Indus
-River, flowing southwestward, and on the other hand into
-the Ganges, flowing southeastward. See the position of the
-Indian desert and the Aravalli Hills, and note the exact
-spot where stands the city of Delhi.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Map of the
-neighborhood of
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We turn now to a map on a larger
-scale of the region round Delhi. We see
-the Himalaya mountains, the Aravalli
-hills, and the Indian Desert. We see the
-streams of the Indus and Ganges systems
-turning away from one another, and we see Simla, the
-summer capital of India, high on a spur of the Himalayas,
-above the divide between the Indus and the Ganges
-tributaries. Just north of Simla is the valley of the Sutlej,
-tributary to the Indus, and where the Sutlej issues from the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>mountains we note the off-take of a great system of irrigation
-canals. It is true that the lowland northwestward of Delhi
-is not quite desert. Nevertheless it has but a sparse rainfall,
-and the result of the construction of the irrigation canals
-derived from the Himalayan waters is that great colonies have
-been established in this region, and wheat is grown on
-thousands of square miles that were formerly waste. India
-has a great population, but with modern methods of water
-supply, and more advanced methods of cultivation, there is
-still ample room for settlement within its boundaries. We see
-on the map that there are other irrigation canals derived from
-the Ganges where it emerges from the mountains at Hardwar,
-and from the Jumna.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Delhi is the Musulman capital of India. What Benares
-and Patna and Gaya were and are to the Brahman and
-Buddhist civilisations native to India, what Calcutta and
-Madras and Bombay and Karachi are to the English from over
-the seas, that are Delhi and Agra to the Musulmans entering
-India from the northwest. The Musulmans were not the first
-to come this way into India. The oldest of the sacred books
-of the Hindus tell of a people who came from the northwest
-and apparently founded the Hindu religion, accepting no
-doubt some of the religious beliefs of the earlier, the Dravidian,
-population. From these Aryan invaders, speaking Sanskrit,
-have been derived the languages of the peoples of Northern
-India. Southeastward, southward, and southwestward
-from Delhi as far as the centre of India, there spread the
-Hindi, Bengali, and Marathi languages, as evidence of the
-effective conquest made by those remote invaders entering
-through the Delhi passage between the desert and the
-mountains. So far, however, as their language was
-concerned, they failed to establish themselves in the
-Dravidian south. Long afterwards, but still some three
-hundred years before the Christian era, the Greeks under
-Alexander the Great traversed Persia and Turkestan and
-came over the Hindu Kush, the mountain backbone of
-what is now Afghanistan, down into the plains of the
-Punjab. Alexander advanced across the rivers of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>Punjab, tributary to the Indus, apparently as far as the
-Sutlej, and then turned southward and followed the Indus
-to its mouth. Part of his troops returned through the
-Persian Gulf on board the fleet, and part he led back
-with great loss along the barren northern shore of the
-Arabian Sea. Alexander and the Greeks came therefore
-to the very threshold of India, and then turned aside
-towards the sea, leaving the desert of Rajputana between
-them and the great prize of the conqueror.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>In the seventh century of the Christian era there arose
-in Arabia the prophet Muhammad, who in his youth had
-been influenced both by Christian and Hebrew teaching.
-He preached to the Arabs that there was but one God, and
-that Muhammad was his prophet.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Muhammad, “The Praised,” was born in Mecca, about
-the year 570. He belonged to one of the ruling families of
-the tribe of Arabs who held Mecca and the surrounding
-country, but his father died before he was born, and his
-mother when he was only six months old. From his earliest
-youth Muhammad was addicted to solitude and musing. In
-his wanderings he visited Syria, and in a Nestorian convent
-there learned many of the Hebrew and Christian ideas
-which he subsequently incorporated into his teaching. In
-his twenty-fifth year he married Khadija, a widow of noble
-birth and considerable wealth. This marriage placed him
-in a position of independence, for he had previously been
-very poor.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>When Muhammad was forty years old there came
-to him a Divine Call, bidding him teach his people
-to abandon their idols, to worship God, and to accept
-him as God’s Prophet. At first Muhammad met with
-the most bitter opposition, and in the year 622 <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> he
-had to flee from Mecca to a city called Yathreb, which
-received him and made him its chief magistrate. Ever since
-that event this city has been called Medinat-un-Nabi, the
-City of the Prophet; or, shortly, Medina. The flight of
-Muhammad from Mecca is called the Hegira, and it is
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>from this event that the Muhammadan calendar dates. In
-the year 630 <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> Mecca was conquered, and shortly after
-this all Arabia submitted to the claims of the prophet.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>After Muhammad’s death the Arabs set forth to conquer
-the world and to convert it to Islam. They subdued Egypt
-and Syria and the plain of the Euphrates. They marched to
-the gates of Constantinople, and through Northern Africa
-to the Strait of Gibraltar, and beyond Gibraltar through
-Spain into France, there to suffer a great defeat at the hands
-of the Christian Franks, which saved the remainder of
-Christendom. All this was accomplished in little more
-than a hundred years from the Hegira.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>But the Musulmans did not wage war only against
-Christendom. Their armies advanced from the Euphrates
-up on to the Persian plateau and down into the lowlands of
-Turkestan in the heart of Asia, and over the Hindu Kush
-into Afghanistan, and then down into the plain of the River
-Indus. Already in the seventh century there had been
-Musulman incursions into India overseas, by way of Sind.
-In the eleventh century after Christ the Musulmans entered
-Gangetic India, and took Delhi. They founded there a
-Muhammadan realm, which presently extended through
-most of Northern India.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-The Mogul Empire
-at its greatest
-extent.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Five hundred years later a second Musulman invasion,
-more effective than the first, came into India by way of
-Delhi. The Moguls or Mongols of Central Asia had
-been converted to Islam, and in the time of our
-King Henry the Eighth they refounded the Musulman
-power at Delhi. For a hundred and fifty years, from
-the time of our Queen Elizabeth to that of our Queen
-Anne, the series of Mogul Emperors, from Humayun
-to Aurangzeb, ruled in splendid state
-practically the whole of India. This map
-shows the greatest spread of the Mogul
-Empire. Agra, a hundred miles down
-the Jumna from Delhi, became a subsidiary
-capital to Delhi, and in these two cities we have
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>to-day the supreme examples of Muhammadan architectural
-art.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Musulman, it must be remembered, came as an
-alien to India. He is no polytheist or pantheist, but a
-believer in the one God, and that a spiritual God, so that
-he holds it wrong to make any graven image, whether of
-man or of animal. Islam is the name which the followers
-of the prophet gave to their religion: it means primarily
-submission, and so peace, greeting, safety, and salvation,
-and in its ethical sense it signifies striving after righteousness.
-Islam is in its essence pure Theism coupled with
-some definite rules of conduct. Belief in a future life
-and accountability for human action in another existence
-are two of the principal doctrines of the Islamic creed.
-Every Musulman is his own priest, and, in theory at any
-rate, no divisions of race or colour are recognised among
-the followers of the Prophet. Musulmans are forbidden to
-take alcohol. The gospel of Islam is the Koran—The
-Book—in which are embodied the teachings and precepts
-of the Arabian Prophet. The Koran incorporates, as we
-have already seen, much that was drawn both from Hebrew
-and Christian teaching.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>More than sixty millions of the Indian population
-hold the faith of Islam. They are scattered all over the
-land, usually in a minority, although that minority, as we
-have already learned, is frequently powerful, for it gives
-ruling chiefs to many districts which are dominantly Hindu.
-In two parts only of India are the Musulmans in a
-majority, namely, in the far east, beyond the mouths of the
-Ganges in the newly formed Province of Eastern Bengal
-and Assam, and in the Indus Basin from the neighbourhood
-of Delhi through the Punjab into Sind. For this reason,
-and also because of its physical character—lying low beneath
-the uplands of Afghanistan, and separated from the greater
-part of India by the breadth of the desert—we may think
-of the Indus Valley as being an ante-chamber to India
-proper. In this ante-chamber, and in the Delhi passage,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>between the desert and the mountains, for more than nine
-hundred years the Musulmans have predominated.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>When the decay of the Mogul Empire began in the
-time of our Queen Anne, the chief local representatives of the
-Imperial Rule, such as the Nizam of Hyderabad, and the
-Nawabs of Bengal and Oudh, assumed an independent
-position. It was with these new dynasties that the East
-India Company came into conflict in the days of General
-Clive, and thus we may regard the British Empire in India
-as having been built up from the fragments into which the
-Mogul Empire broke. In one region, however, the Western
-Deccan, the Hindus re-asserted themselves, and there was a
-rival bid for Empire, as we have already learned, on the
-part of the Marathas. It was the work of General
-Wellesley, afterwards Duke of Wellington, to defeat the
-Marathas. In the north also, in the Punjab, there was a
-recrudescence of the Hindu race, due to the new sect of
-the Sikhs, who set up a power with which at a later time
-the British Raj came into conflict. But this was not until
-after Delhi, the very seat of the Mogul throne, had been
-taken.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>Repeat Map No. 2.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-Simla,
-Viceregal Lodge—distant
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Simla,
-Bazaar and Town
-Hall.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We are now prepared for the fact shown
-in this map, that the tract northwestward
-of Delhi, in the gateway between the desert
-and the mountains, is sown over with battle
-fields—ancient battlefields near Delhi, where the incoming
-Musulmans overthrew the Indian resistance, and modern
-battlefields near the Sutlej, where advancing British power
-inflicted defeat upon the Sikhs after severe
-contests. It is by no accident that
-Simla, the residence during more than
-half the year of the British Viceroy, is
-placed on the Himalayan heights above
-this natural seat of Empire and of struggle
-for Empire.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>In the Mutiny of 1857 the Sikhs of the Punjab, and of
-the still continuing Tributary States of Nabha and Patiala,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>mentioned in the last lecture, remained loyal to the
-British rule, although they had been conquered in the
-terrible battles on the Sutlej less than ten years before. In
-no small measure this was due to the extraordinary
-influence wielded over them by Sir John Lawrence, afterwards
-Lord Lawrence, the brother of that Sir Henry
-Lawrence who defended the Residency of Lucknow. As a
-result of the Sikh loyalty some of the British forces in the
-Punjab were free to march to the re-capture of Delhi. Thus
-the Indian Mutiny was overcome from two bases, on the one
-hand at Lucknow and Cawnpore by an army from the
-sea and Calcutta, and on the other hand at Delhi by an army
-advancing from the Punjab over the track beaten by so
-many conquerors in previous ages. Let us visit Delhi and
-see its defences, its mosques, the palaces of its Emperors,
-and the memorials of the Mutiny. Then we will go to Agra
-to see other splendid monuments of the Musulman
-dynasty. After that we will turn to Hardwar, at the point
-where the sacred Ganges bursts from its Himalayan valley
-on to the plain. Hardwar is a pilgrimage centre of the
-Hindus, second in sanctity only to Benares itself.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-The Kashmir Gate,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-East of Delhi, running almost due southward, is the
-river Jumna, crossed by the great bridge of the East Indian
-Railway, which carries the main line from Delhi through
-the United Provinces and Bengal to Calcutta. West of
-the city is the last spur of the Aravalli hills, the famous
-Ridge of Delhi, striking northeastward. The city lies
-between the Ridge and the Jumna. It may be divided
-into three parts. To the north is the
-European quarter. In the centre is
-Shahjahanabad, or modern Delhi, entered
-from the north by the Kashmir Gate.
-Between Shahjahanabad and the river is the Fort. The
-Jama Masjid (Great Mosque) stands in the centre of
-Shahjahanabad, and the Kalan Masjid (Black Mosque) is
-about half a mile further south. Passing out of the modern
-city southward by the Delhi Gate we enter Firozabad, or
-ancient Delhi, the capital of the earlier Mogul rulers.
-Further still to the south are even more ancient ruins.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-Jama Masjid,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-View from halfway
-up a Minaret,
-Jama Masjid.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-View from top of
-Minaret, looking
-south.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-The Same, looking
-northeast.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-Kalan Masjid,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us begin our sight-seeing in the centre of the modern
-city, at the Jama Masjid, a great building of marble and
-sandstone. Its principal treasures are a
-hair of Muhammad, and some of his
-handwriting. Here is a view of the
-mosque from the balcony of a neighbouring
-house. Let us go up one of the minarets and
-look over the city. This is a view taken from a little
-gallery half way up. To the left is
-seen part of the large central dome
-of the mosque, and to the right the top
-of one of the columns which rise on
-either side of the main archway. Beyond,
-far below, can be seen part of the city.
-Next we have a view, due southward,
-from the top of the minaret. The Kalan
-Masjid is just visible in the foreground,
-but a smoke haze obscures the more
-distant part of the town. We turn
-round and look northeastward over the
-Fort. Notice on the ground the shadow
-of the other minaret of the mosque. In the
-distance can be seen the Jumna, and crossing it the great
-bridge of the East Indian Railway. Here we have a closer
-view of the Kalan Masjid, or Black Mosque, built in the
-original style of the mosques of Arabia
-with many small solid domes, unadorned
-by carving. It has a sombre appearance.
-We see in front one of these domes, and
-behind it the tops of two others.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-The Lahore Gate,
-Delhi Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-The Delhi Gate,
-Delhi Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-The Pearl Mosque,
-Delhi Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-The Hall of
-Public Audience,
-Delhi Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-The Orpheus
-Panel.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The chief glory of Delhi is, however, the
-Fort, and the group of palace buildings
-within its precincts. It is approached
-through the Lahore Gate, of which we have
-here a view. This gate is in the middle of
-the west side of the Fort. Along the east
-side flows the River Jumna. In the southern
-face there is another great gateway, the
-Delhi Gate, with a grey stone elephant on
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>either side of the entry. Within the
-Fort, is the Moti Masjid, or Pearl
-Mosque, built by Aurangzeb, of white
-and grey marble. The finest of the
-buildings of the Fort is, however, the
-great Hall of Public Audience, the
-Diwan-i-Am. There is a raised recess,
-in the wall of this hall, where formerly
-stood the famous Peacock Throne of Aurangzeb, made of
-solid gold inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, and
-backed by two peacocks set thick with gems. This throne
-was carried off when the Persians under Nadir Shah sacked
-the city in 1739, and massacred most of its inhabitants.
-Above the entry to the recess of the Peacock Throne
-are a number of panels about nine inches high and
-six inches broad, made of inlaid stones.
-Here is a photograph of one of them.
-Some of these panels were injured,
-but, thanks to Lord Curzon, an expert
-artist from Florence has recently restored them and made
-new ones in the spirit of the earlier to fill the vacant
-spaces.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-The Hall of
-Private Audience,
-Delhi Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We pass next to the innermost court of
-the Fort-palace, the Hall of Private
-Audience, the Diwan-i-Khas, ninety feet
-long and seventy feet broad, built of white
-marble with many inlaid flowers of jewels.
-Beneath the cornice runs the famous inscription: “If there
-is a Paradise upon earth it is this, it is this.” Here we see
-one of the graceful arches, and beyond in the distance
-the towers of the Pearl Mosque, already described.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-Mausoleum of
-Humayun, Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-To see old Delhi we must drive from the modern city
-either by the Delhi Gate in the south wall of the Fort or by the
-Ajmer Gate in the southeast corner of the city wall, past
-great dome-topped temples, most of them in ruins, until a
-few miles out, not far from the trunk road leading from Delhi
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>to Agra, we come to the Mausoleum
-of Humayun, of which we have here
-a view. The design, as will be realised
-presently, is very similar to that of the
-Taj Mahal at Agra, but the Mausoleum is the older
-building. Notice the terraced platform on which it stands.
-It is built of red sandstone and marble. Beneath the
-platform, and approached by a long dark passage, is the
-vault where Humayun is buried. Around the Mausoleum
-are a number of old ruins, and the debris and cactus remind
-one of Pagan in Burma, which we saw in the second
-lecture.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-The Kutab Minar
-and Iron Pillar,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We resume our drive, past ruined tombs and walls, and at
-last, about eleven miles south of Delhi, we come to the
-buildings of the Kutab Minar, where are some of the few
-remains of the Hindu period now visible in the neighbourhood,
-though the mass of the work is of Muhammadan date.
-The Kutab was begun at the end of the 12th century, on
-the site of an ancient Hindu temple destroyed by
-the Musulmans. The famous Iron Pillar stands in front
-of the mosque. It is one of the most remarkable of all the
-antiquities of India, for it consists of a solid mass of wrought
-iron, weighing probably more than six tons, and measuring
-some 24 feet in height, with an average diameter of a little
-over a foot. At the base is an inscription
-in Sanskrit, from which it appears that its
-probable date is the fourth century, <span class='fss'>A.D.</span>
-This inscription runs thus: “As long as
-I stand so long shall the Hindu kingdom endure.” The
-Kutab mosque is the Moslem reply to this. The wrought
-iron of the Pillar has an almost bluish colour when seen
-against the warm sunlit red sandstone of the great Kutab
-Tower. In this photograph a man has climbed to the top
-of the Pillar, and stands there as though a statue, giving us
-the scale of the monument.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-The Lat of Asoka,
-the Ridge, Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Now let us visit the district to north of the modern city,
-of deep interest in connection with the Mutiny. On the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>Ridge top, between the Flagstaff Tower towards its northeastern
-end and the Mutiny Memorial further south, is
-another curious pillar, this one of stone, called the Lat of
-Asoka. At its base is the following modern inscription:</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>“This pillar was originally erected at Meerut in the
-third century <span class='fss'>B.C.</span> by King Asoka. It was removed
-thence, and set up in the Koshuk Shikar
-Palace by the Emperor Firuz Shah
-in <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 1356, but was thrown down and
-broken into five pieces by the explosion of a powder
-magazine <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 1713-1719. It was restored and set up
-in this place by the British Government <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 1867.”</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-The Flagstaff
-Tower, the Ridge,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We will walk past the various memorials of the Mutiny
-struggle. Here is the Flagstaff Tower,
-in which were gathered at the outbreak
-of danger the women and children
-of the British garrison anxiously looking
-for relief from Meerut. But the relief did not come, and
-Delhi was stormed and captured by the mutineers. The
-refugees in the Flagstaff Tower were compelled to fly for
-their lives to Karnal, on the road to the Punjab, where
-gradually British troops and loyal natives were assembled.
-The British returned to the Ridge, and for two months
-the siege of the city was pressed, but unsuccessfully. A
-brigade and a siege train then arrived from the Punjab, commanded
-by General Nicholson. The struggle continued for
-yet another month. Our troops were not in sufficient force to
-surround and starve the city, and it was therefore necessary
-to bombard and storm the defences. Slowly the British
-won their way into the town, though with terrible loss.
-General Nicholson was himself wounded in one of the
-assaults, and died a week later. At last, on the 20th
-September, the Fort was taken, and next day the rebel
-King of Delhi was captured at Humayun’s Tomb, and was
-exiled to Rangoon. Two of his sons were shot in front of
-the Delhi Gate. The terrible nature of this siege may be
-realised from the fact that of the ten thousand British and
-loyal native troops who took part in it nearly four thousand
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>were killed and wounded. Here is the
-statue of General Nicholson in the park
-named after him, just south of the cemetery,
-outside the Kashmir Gate, where he is
-buried. On the Ridge itself is the Mutiny
-Memorial, unfortunately not a very beautiful
-building.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-General Nicholson’s
-Statue, Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-The Mutiny
-Memorial, the Ridge,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span></p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-Horse Fair,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-Dariba Street,
-Delhi.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Finally, we have two scenes of native
-life at Delhi. The first is a horse fair
-outside the Kashmir Gate, and the
-second a street view.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Let us travel to Agra, which stands on the right bank
-of the Jumna, about a hundred miles southeast of Delhi.
-The Jumna flows from north to south until beside Agra
-Fort, and then turns sharply eastward. About a mile
-and a half further on, on the same right bank, now the
-south side of the river, there stands the Taj Mahal, the most
-celebrated of all Muhammadan tombs. The building
-of Agra Fort was commenced by the Emperor Akbar in the
-middle of the 16th century, and was completed by Shah
-Jahan, the father of Aurangzeb, in the 17th century. It
-was this Shah Jahan who built the Palace within the Fort
-and also the Taj.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-The Pearl Mosque,
-Agra Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Fort and the buildings which it
-contains rise by the side of the river
-and dominate the plain beyond it. Here
-within the Fort we have a view of the
-marble interior of the Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, built
-by Shah Jahan in the middle of the 17th century. The
-floor is divided by inlaid lines of black and yellow marble
-into some six hundred separate divisions, called Masalas,
-used by the Musulmans for prayer. In the centre is a
-large marble tank. The effect produced on entering this
-mosque is profound. Outside, the city may be quivering
-in a haze of heat, but here the cool and soft light, and an
-entire absence of any discordant features in the architecture,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>combine to give a sense of rest and peace. Many Europeans
-have remarked that this mosque is a rendering in stone of
-the text “My house shall be called the house of prayer.”</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-Jehangir’s Throne,
-Agra Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-The Jessamine
-Tower, Agra Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-The Seat of the
-Jester, Agra Fort.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us go out on to the open space by the wall, and
-look over the moat which divides the main buildings
-of the Fort from the outer rampart by the river. Across
-the water the Taj Mahal can just be
-seen beyond the bend of the river. In
-front of us is Jehangir’s throne, set
-up in the time of Akbar. It consists
-of a single great slab of black marble.
-Close by, is the Jessamine Tower.
-Here we have another view in which
-we see the Throne from the back and a
-corner of the Jessamine Tower. Notice
-the lower slab opposite, which is called
-the Seat of the Jester. The effect of
-its presence is by contrast to enhance the
-beauty of Jehangir’s Throne itself. Between the wall in
-the foreground and the outer ramparts by the river there
-is a drop of some sixty feet, and in this ditch fights
-between lions and elephants used to be held in the days of
-the Mogul Emperors.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Jama Masjid,
-Agra.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Just outside the Fort, facing the west
-or Delhi Gate, is the Jama Masjid, of
-which we have here a view. We see the
-courtyard and one of the entries. The
-peculiarity of this mosque lies in the structure of the three
-great domes. They are without necks. We can just see
-the tops of two of them. They are built of red sandstone,
-and the encircling bands are of white marble.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Taj Mahal,
-Agra.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-The Taj
-Gardens.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-The Same, by
-moonlight.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We will now visit the Taj Mahal. It
-was built, chiefly of marble inlaid with precious
-stones, by Shah Jahan as a tomb for
-his queen. Here we have a view of the
-Taj taken from without the entrance gateway. Then we pass
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>through the gateway and enter the Taj
-Gardens. The watercourse in the centre
-is of marble, and along each side is a
-row of cypresses. The original cypresses
-had grown to such a height that the view of the Taj was
-becoming obstructed. They were therefore removed, and
-those which we see in the picture were planted by Lord
-Curzon, when he was Viceroy. The Taj is perhaps most
-beautiful in the light of the setting
-sun, or by moonlight. We have here a
-photograph made from a painting of the
-Taj by moonlight.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-The Bazaar,
-Agra.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-Agra College.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-Agra Jail—Wool
-spinning.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-Agra Jail—Carpet
-making.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We will drive back through the native city. This
-is a typical scene in the Bazaar.
-Notice the Kotwal, or Chief of the
-Police, in the centre of the crowd. He
-is an Afghan, standing well over six feet
-in height and finely proportioned. On the awning over
-one of the shops an advertisement obtrudes, showing that
-even the native quarters of the cities of India are being
-permeated with European methods. Here
-is Agra College, endowed about a century
-ago by the then Maharaja of Gwalior.
-There are about a thousand students.
-Close by is the Jail. In this picture we
-see some of the prisoners spinning wool,
-and in the next they are making carpets.</p>
-<p class='c024'>The next series of pictures relates to the great Muhammadan
-anniversary of the Moharam, and in order to
-understand them it is necessary to say a few words
-regarding the history of Islam and the contending sects
-which have emerged from that history. Muhammad
-died in the year 632. He left no son; but one of
-his daughters, Fatima, was married to a cousin whose
-name was Ali. Abu Bakr, who had been a great friend
-and supporter of Muhammad, was elected Caliph or
-Vice-Regent of the Prophet. Abu Bakr died in 634,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>and was succeeded by Omar, who conquered Persia and
-Syria. To him Jerusalem capitulated. Omar was murdered
-in the same year, and was succeeded by Osman, who was killed
-in 656. Then Ali, the cousin and son-in-law of Muhammad,
-was elected to the Caliphate. Ali was murdered in 661, and
-Hasan, his son, was elected Caliph in his place, but was
-induced to resign in favour of a Caliph of another family.
-Husain, the second son of Ali, never acknowledged the title
-of the Caliph who had superseded his brother Hasan, and
-when the Musulmans of Mesopotamia invited him to
-overthrow the usurping Caliph he felt it his duty to respond
-to their appeal. Accompanied by his family and a few
-retainers he left for Mesopotamia. On the way, at a place
-called Karbala, on the west bank of the Euphrates, they
-were overtaken by the Caliph’s army, and after a heroic
-struggle lasting several days were all slaughtered, save the
-women and a sickly child called Ali, who died soon afterwards.
-Thus ended the Republic of Islam. Up to this
-time the office of Caliph had been elective and the
-government essentially democratic. The seat of government
-was now moved from Medina to Damascus.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>In the middle of the eighth century of the Christian era
-a great revolution took place in Western Asia. The revolt
-was headed by a descendant of Abbas, an uncle of the
-Prophet, and the outcome of it was that the Abbassides, or
-members of the family of Abbas, established themselves
-as Caliphs, and ruled at Bagdad from the year 756 to the
-year 1258. When Bagdad was destroyed by the Mongols
-a member of the Abbassides family escaped to Cairo,
-where he was recognised as Caliph by the Sultan of Egypt.
-The eighth Caliph in succession from this man renounced
-the Caliphate in favour of Sultan Salim, the great Ottoman
-conqueror, and it is on this renunciation that the title
-of the Sultan of Turkey to the spiritual headship of Islam
-is based.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>It will be seen from this short statement of the history
-that a great change took place in Islam when Husain, the
-descendant of the Caliph Ali and of Fatima, the Prophet’s
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>daughter, was slain at Karbala, on the Euphrates. From
-that tragedy dates the chief division of Islam. The Shiah
-sect traces its foundation to the Caliph Ali and the
-immediate descendants of the Prophet, who are regarded as
-the rightful exponents of his teaching. Some twenty millions
-of the Indian Musulmans are Shiahs, and Shiahism is also
-the State religion of Persia. There are a large number of
-Shiahs also in other parts of the Muhammadan world, but
-nowhere, except in Persia, a majority. The Shiahs are
-advocates of Apostolic descent and lineal succession to the
-Caliphate.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The other of the two great divisions of the Musulmans
-are the Sunnis, who advocate the principle of election to the
-Caliphate. Almost all the Sunnis acknowledge the spiritual
-headship of the Sultan of Turkey, who is, of course,
-repudiated by the Shiahs. At the present time nearly
-50 millions of the Musulmans of India are Sunnis, and
-there are Sunni Musulmans in China, Tartary, Afghanistan,
-Asiatic and European Turkey, Arabia, Egypt, Northern and
-Central Africa, Bosnia, Herzegovina, Russia, Ceylon, and
-the Malay Archipelago.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-Moharam Time
-at Agra.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-Shiahs burying
-Tazias.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We are now in a position to understand the significance of
-the anniversary of the Karbala. Annually there is held in the
-Muhammadan month Moharam a festival in memory of the
-death of Husain. The scenes of the battle are reproduced,
-and the tazia or tomb of Husain is carried in procession
-amidst cries of “Hasan, Husain!” Properly, this is a Shiah
-festival only, but in India both the Sunnis and Shiahs take
-part in it. Here are photographs representing the festival.
-The tazias are pagoda-like structures, made of a variety of
-materials. They are carried in long procession
-through the town, and finally the
-little biers—representative of the biers
-of Hasan and Husain—contained inside
-the tazias are buried at the Karbala,
-outside the city. We have first a
-street view in Agra showing the crowd
-at Moharam time. In the distance
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>is Agra Fort. Next we have three views of
-the procession of the tazias, and then a
-view of the Karbala beyond the city,
-where the biers from the tazias are
-buried. The Shiahs, however, do not bury
-their tazias in the Karbala, but on the
-banks of the Jumna. Here we see them
-in the early morning conducting the
-ceremony with most solemn ritual.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-Fields of Wheat
-and Barley.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-The Public Audience
-Hall,
-Fatehpur Sikri.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-The Great Capital,
-Fatehpur Sikri.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-Gate of Victory,
-Fatehpur Sikri.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us drive out from Agra southwestward on the road
-to Fatehpur Sikri, the city erected by the Emperor
-Akbar, but abandoned by his successors in favour of
-Agra. On the way, we note fields of wheat and barley,
-separated by an irrigation channel. We
-pass villages amid mango trees, and
-occasional ruins, and arrive at Fatehpur
-Sikri. There we enter the great quadrangle
-and the Public Audience Hall of the
-Palace, built of red sandstone. It was
-in this hall that Akbar used to sit on
-certain days to see personally anyone who
-had grievances to lay before him. Notice in the quadrangle
-the stone pierced with a hole which is fixed in the ground.
-Criminals were put to death by being trampled upon by an
-elephant, and to that ring the elephant
-was tied. We pass on to the Private
-Audience Hall of Akbar, the Diwan-i-Khas.
-Note the huge capital of the
-column in the centre. Tradition says
-that Akbar used to sit on the top of this
-capital. Finally, here is the magnificent
-Gate of Victory.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-Mausoleum of
-Akbar,
-Sikandra.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-The Same—a
-Marble
-Inscription.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-The Same—the
-Cloisters.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We leave Fatehpur Sikri, and drive
-back, past many other tombs, in the direction
-of the Cantonment at Agra until we
-come to the burial place of Akbar at
-Sikandra. This is the gateway of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>great Mausoleum. Notice the cut marble
-inscriptions down the sides of the arch.
-They are quotations from the Koran.
-Here is a clearer photograph of a
-part of these inscriptions, and here we
-have the marble court above the tomb
-of Akbar. Round the Cloisters are
-verses celebrating his greatness. “Think
-not that the sky will be so kind as
-Akbar was,” is the tenor of one of them.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-Hariki Piri,
-Hardwar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-Sarwan Nath
-Temple, Hardwar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-The Same, from
-above.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-Camels at
-Hardwar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span></p>
-<p class='c024'>Finally we will travel away to Hardwar, some two hundred
-miles due north of Agra. It is on the Ganges, at the point
-where the river leaves the last foot hills of the Himalayas
-and enters the plain. Hardwar is a great centre of Hindu
-pilgrimage for the purpose of ablution in the sacred
-waters. At the annual fair are gathered hundreds of
-thousands of worshippers. So great has been the crush of
-people endeavouring to bathe that on occasion many have
-been trampled upon and drowned. The great day at
-Hardwar is towards the end of March, when the Hindu year
-begins, and when, according to tradition, the Ganges river
-first appeared from its source in the mountains.
-There was a town of Hardwar
-more than a thousand years ago, but
-its ancient buildings have disappeared.
-Here we have a view of the famous Bathing Ghat, a
-comparatively small flight of steps, where the river is
-considered to be specially sacred. The water is purer
-than at Benares in the plain. It
-flows swiftly and is as clear as crystal.
-Near by we have a temple, the Sarwan
-Nath, with great stone elephants, and
-here is a second view of the same
-temple seen from a neighbouring roof.
-Notice the Trisul, or bronze trident, the
-typical weapon of Siva, the Destroyer.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-Sacred Cow at
-Hardwar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here is a string of camels at Hardwar,
-and then a sacred cow—especially sacred
-because deformed, for a freak of nature
-is miraculous.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-The Road to
-Mussoorie.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-The Same,
-Coolies carrying
-Baggage.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-The Same,
-a Tree across
-the Road.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-Mussoorie.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-The Himalayas
-from
-Mussoorie.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Not far northward of Hardwar, among
-the foot hills of the Himalayas, is Mussoorie,
-a hill station supplementary to
-Simla. Mussoorie is about a mile above
-sea level. We have two views taken on
-the steep mountain road up to it;
-the second shows coolies carrying
-baggage. In the next view we realise
-something of the difficulties of travel in
-these hill districts of much rainfall, for the
-road is blocked by the fall of a great
-tree. Here we have a view of Mussoorie
-itself, and then the landscape from
-Mussoorie looking towards the Himalayan
-ranges to the north. Close by, but lower
-down, is Dehra Dun, the headquarters of
-the Gurkha Rifles, enlisted from Nepal,
-and also of the Imperial Cadet Corps, a
-small training force consisting wholly of
-the sons of ruling chiefs. We shall hear
-of the Gurkhas again in connection with
-the defences of India, which will be the
-subject of the next and concluding lecture
-of this Course.</p>
-<hr class='c013' />
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
- <span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>
- <h2 class='c019'>LECTURE VIII.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class='c030' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div><b>THE NORTHWEST FRONTIER.</b></div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='c011' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
- <div class='nf-center'>
- <div>THE SIKHS.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c020'>In the British Empire there is but one land frontier on
-which warlike preparation must ever be ready. It is the
-Northwest Frontier of India. True that there is another
-boundary, even longer, drawn across the American Continent,
-but there, fortunately, only customs houses are
-necessary and an occasional police guard. The Northwest
-Frontier of India, on the other hand, lies through a
-region whose inhabitants have been recruited throughout
-the ages by invading warlike races. Except for the Gurkha
-mountaineers of Nepal, the best soldiers of the Indian
-Army are derived from the northwest, from the Rajputs,
-the Sikhs, the Punjabi Musulmans, the Dogra mountaineers
-north of the Punjab, and the Pathan mountaineers west
-of the Punjab. The provinces along the frontier, and the
-Afghan land immediately beyond it, are the one region
-in all India from which, under some ambitious lead, the
-attempt might be made to establish a fresh imperial rule
-by the overthrow of the British Raj. It would not be
-the freedom of India which would ensue, but an oriental
-despotism and race domination from the northwest.
-Such is the teaching of history, and such the obvious
-fate of the less warlike peoples of India, should the power
-of Britain be broken either by warfare on the spot, or by
-the defeat of our navy. Beyond the northwest frontier,
-moreover, at a greater or less distance are the continental
-Powers of Europe.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>1.<br />
-Political Map of
-Northwest India.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Indian army and the Indian strategical railways are
-therefore organized with special reference to the belt of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>territory, extending from northeast to southwest, which lies
-beyond the Indian desert and is traversed from end to end
-by the Indus River. This frontier belt divides naturally
-into two parts. Inland we have the
-Punjab, where the rivers, emerging from
-their mountain valleys, gradually close
-together through the plain to form the
-single stream of the lower Indus;
-seaward we have Sind, where the Indus divides into
-distributaries forming a delta. Sind, as already stated, is a
-part of the Bombay Province, with which it is connected by
-sea from the Port of Karachi. Of late a railway has
-been constructed from Ahmadabad in the main territory
-of Bombay, across the southern end of the Desert, to
-Hyderabad at the head of the Indus delta. The Punjab
-is a separate Province with its own Lieutenant-Governor
-resident at Lahore. It was conquered from the Sikhs by a
-British army based on Delhi, and therefore ultimately on
-Calcutta.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>2.<br />
-Map of Lower Asia.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-To understand the significance of the
-Northwest Frontier of India we must
-look far beyond the immediate boundaries
-of the Empire. We have here a map of
-Lower Asia. Upon it we see a broad
-tract of upland which, commencing in Asia Minor, extends
-through Armenia and Persia to include Baluchistan and
-Afghanistan. There is thus one continuous belt of plateau
-stretching from Europe to the boundary of India. The
-eastern end of this belt, that is to say, Persia, Afghanistan,
-and Baluchistan, is known as Iran. On all sides save
-the northwest and the northeast, the Iranian plateau
-descends abruptly to lowlands or to the sea. Southward
-and southwestward lie the Arabian Sea and the Persian
-Gulf, and the long lowland which is traversed by the rivers
-Euphrates and Tigris. Northward, to the east of the
-Caspian Sea, is the broad lowland of Turkestan, traversed
-by the Rivers Oxus and Jaxartes, draining into the
-Sea of Aral. Eastward is the plain of the Indus. The
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>defence of India from invasion depends in the first place
-on the maintenance of British sea power in the Persian
-Gulf and along the south coast of Baluchistan, and in the
-second place on our refusal to allow the establishment of
-alien bases of power on the Iranian plateau, especially on
-those parts of it which lie towards the south and east.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>3.<br />
-Map of the
-Northwest
-Frontier.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the next map we have on a larger
-scale the detail of that part of Iran which
-lies nearest to India. Here we see, west
-of the Punjab, a great triangular mass of
-mountain ridges which splay out westward
-and southward from the northeast. These ridges and
-the intervening valleys constitute Afghanistan. Flowing
-from the Afghan valleys we have on the one hand the
-Kabul river, which descends eastward to the Indus, and,
-on the other hand, the greater river Helmund, which flows
-southwestward into the depressed basin of Seistan, where
-it divides into many channels, forming as it were an inland
-delta from which the waters are evaporated by the hot air, for
-there is no opening to the sea. The valley of the Kabul river
-on the one hand, and the oasis of Seistan on the other, might
-in the hands of an enemy become bases wherein to prepare
-the invasion of India. Therefore, without annexing this
-intricate and difficult upland, we have declared it to be the
-policy of Britain to exclude from Afghanistan and from
-Seistan all foreign power.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Further examination of the map will show that there are
-two lines, and only two, along which an invasion of India
-might be conducted. On the one hand, the mountains
-become very narrow just north of the head of the Kabul
-River. There in fact a single though lofty ridge, the
-Hindu Kush, is all that separates the basin of the Oxus from
-that of the Indus. As we see from the map, low ground
-is very near on the two sides of the Hindu Kush. The
-way into India over the passes of the Hindu Kush is
-known as the Khyber route, from the name of the last defile
-by which the track descends into the Indian Plain.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'><span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>If we now look some five hundred miles to the southwest
-of Kabul, we see that the Afghan mountains come
-suddenly to an end, and that a pathway leads round their
-fringe from Herat to the Indus Basin, passing along the
-border of Seistan. From Herat to beyond Kandahar,
-this way lies over an upland plain and is easy, but the last
-part of the journey is through a mountainous district down
-to the lowland of the Indus. This is the Bolan route,
-so called from the last gorge towards India. It will be
-noticed that the Bolan route debouches upon the Indus
-opposite to the great Indian Desert. Therefore it is that
-the Khyber route has been the more frequented. It leads
-directly between the desert and the mountain foot, upon the
-inner gateway of India at Delhi.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>We conquered the Punjab from the Sikhs, but for many
-centuries it had been ruled by the Musulmans. In the
-break up of the Mogul Empire invaders had come, during
-the eighteenth century, from Persia and from Afghanistan,
-who carried devastation even as far as Delhi. Thus it was
-that with relative ease the Sikhs as contemporaries of the
-Marathas established a dominion in the helpless Punjab.
-They extended their rule also into the mountains of
-Kashmir, north of Lahore.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Let us commence our survey of the northwest at Dehra
-Dun, which is placed in a mountain valley among the foot
-hills of the Himalayas, not far from the hill station of
-Mussoorie, of which we heard in the last lecture. Then
-from Dehra Dun we will travel two hundred miles northwestward,
-crossing the Beas, one of the five rivers of the
-Punjab, to Amritsar, the holy city of the Sikhs. Fifty
-miles west of Amritsar, on the Ravi, another of the Indus
-tributaries, is Lahore, the traditional capital of the Punjab.
-From Lahore onward we traverse irrigated strips of
-fertile ground, with sandy plains intervening, with a
-scanty herbage for a few camels. Then follows a
-broken and more desolate country in the north of the
-Punjab. So we come to the Indus itself, and beyond
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>this, nearly three hundred miles from Lahore, to the military
-station of Peshawar, the last Indian city on the great track
-leading northwestward from Calcutta, through Allahabad
-and Delhi. Not far from Peshawar is the Khyber Pass.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The Khyber is protected by its own hill tribes. We have
-enlisted them on the side of law and order by enrolling
-them into military forces, just as the Scottish Highlanders
-were enrolled in the British army in the 18th century.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>Then leaving Peshawar we will visit Quetta, some
-five hundred miles southwestward, and see there the
-second great centre of British force on the Frontier. It
-has been established to command the Bolan route to
-Kandahar and Herat. The whole army in India is
-organised with reference to these two points, Peshawar and
-Quetta, or in other words, the Khyber and the Bolan.
-There are many other passes in the frontier mountains,
-but they offer merely loopways from the two main routes.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>4.<br />
-12th Bengal
-Infantry.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>5.<br />
-Bombay
-Mountain
-Battery.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>6.<br />
-Heavy Battery
-in Elephant
-Draught.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Indian forces are now grouped into a Northern
-and a Southern army. The Northern army is distributed
-southeastward from Peshawar past Delhi
-and Allahabad to Calcutta, so that all the
-forces along that long line may be regarded
-as supporting the brigades on the Khyber
-front. The Southern army is similarly
-posted for the reinforcement of Quetta.
-It is distributed in the Bombay Presidency
-and immediately around. The conditions
-of the defence of India have of course
-been vitally changed by the construction
-of the Northwestern Railway from the
-port of Karachi through the Indus basin,
-with its two branches towards the Bolan and the Khyber.
-To-day that defence could be conducted over the seas
-directly from Britain through Karachi, so
-that the desert of Rajputana would lie
-between the defending forces and the
-main community of India within.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>7.<br />
-18th P. W. Tiwana
-Horse.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>8.<br />
-Gurkha Rifles:
-Physical Drill.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>9.<br />
-The Same—Bayonet
-Practice.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>10.<br />
-32nd Mountain
-Battery, Advancing
-Down Hill.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>11.<br />
-The Same—Retiring
-Up Hill.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>12.<br />
-Battery in Action.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-As we start for Dehra Dun let us stop
-for a moment on the ridge at Delhi to
-see a squadron of the 18th Prince of
-Wales’s Tiwana Horse, recruited partly
-from among the Sikhs and partly from
-the Musulmans. Then at Dehra Dun
-we have the Gurkha Rifles. We see
-them at physical drill and then at bayonet
-practice. At the same place we visit a
-battery of Mountain Artillery, for Dehra
-Dun is in the Terai, at the foot of the
-Himalayas. Mountain batteries are much
-utilised in operations over the broken
-and hilly country towards the Northwest
-Frontier. The men are Punjabis;
-and it will be noticed that the guns are
-carried by mules. Here we see the
-battery advancing down hill, and here we
-see it retiring up hill. Then we have a
-mountain gun in action.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>From Dehra Dun we proceed to Amritsar, the chief
-centre of the Sikh religion, which resulted from a reformation
-of Hinduism in the middle of the fifteenth century. It
-is therefore modern indeed as compared with the parent
-religion itself. The Sikhs abandoned idolatry, and also
-distinctions of caste. The word Sikh means “disciple.”
-In their origin a religious sect, the Sikhs developed into
-a powerful military commonwealth, which rose to great
-position in the Punjab and surrounding lands as the Mogul
-strength decayed at Delhi. The Sikhs only succumbed to
-the British after two wars, fought in 1846 and 1849, which
-were among the severest in the whole history of British
-India. Yet they remained loyal during the Mutiny.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>13.<br />
-The Causeway and
-the Golden Temple,
-Amritsar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>14.<br />
-The Golden Temple,
-Amritsar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>15.<br />
-The Akal Bungah,
-Amritsar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The Emperor Akbar granted to the Sikhs a site for their
-capital by the shore of a sacred tank, and this capital, Amritsar,
-has now grown to be a city of over 150,000 inhabitants, the
-third most wealthy and populous of the Punjab. It is
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>surpassed only by Delhi and Lahore, and Delhi has been
-included in the Punjab only in recent times, and for
-convenience of administration. In this view we see the
-famous Golden Temple, built in the
-centre of the sacred tank. The
-bridge across the water leading to the
-entry is of marble. The doors of
-the gateway are of silver without, and on
-the inner side of wood inlaid with ivory.
-The lower part of the walls of the temple itself are of white
-marble inlaid with jaspar and mother-of-pearl, but the upper
-part is plated with gilded copper. In the middle of the
-temple, under a canopy, is the Grant Sahib, the sacred
-book of the Sikhs, covered with a cloth
-of gold. Here we have another view
-of the Golden Temple seen across
-the tank, and behind it is the Clock
-Tower. Opposite the chief entry to
-the temple is a square surrounded by
-public buildings, of which the most
-important is the Akal Bungah, wherein
-are performed the ceremonies of initiation
-and investiture of the Sikhs.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>16.<br />
-School of Sikh and
-Hindu Children.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>17.<br />
-Street Scene,
-Amritsar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>18.<br />
-Street Conjurer,
-Amritsar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-A few scenes follow showing phases of life at Amritsar.
-Here we see a part of the tesselated
-pavement which surrounds the sacred
-tank, and a school of Hindu and Sikh
-children. Next is a street scene showing
-the gateway leading to another sacred tank,
-and here is a conjurer with a cobra
-entwined about his neck. Amritsar has
-to-day become an important manufacturing
-city. From raw materials brought
-by the Khyber route, from the central
-Asian markets, are here manufactured
-shawls of the famous Kashmir design,
-and also fine silks, embroideries, carpets,
-carvings, and metal work of various kinds.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>19.<br />
-Lahore, from roof of
-Shish Mahal.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>20.<br />
-West Gate, Jama
-Masjid, Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Let us now go on to Lahore, the ancient and the modern
-capital of the Punjab. Here is a view taken
-from the roof of the Shish Mahal, or Palace
-of Mirrors, in the Fort of Lahore,
-looking towards the southwest, over the
-Jama Masjid, towards the River Ravi, on whose left bank the
-city stands. Next is seen the fine west
-gate of the Jama Masjid, a mosque built
-by the Emperor Aurangzeb, which contains
-relics of Muhammad.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>21.<br />
-Zamzamah,
-Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>22.<br />
-Sarai, Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>23.<br />
-The Same,
-showing Wazir
-Khan’s House.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>24.<br />
-Old Houses,
-Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Do you remember “Kim” in Rudyard
-Kipling’s book? We have in this view
-the Zamzamah, the old gun under the
-tree on which Kim sat in the first chapter.
-Astride on its muzzle is an urchin, just like what Kim
-must have been. Here is the Sarai, a
-quadrangle about sixty yards square, with
-round arched verandahs on all sides.
-Note the well in the centre. Next is the
-actual house where Wazir Khan, Kipling’s
-Mahbub Ali, used to sleep. Beyond
-may be seen horses brought for sale.
-The Sarai belongs to-day to the Maharaja of Kashmir, who
-obtains a revenue from the fees paid by the horsedealers
-using it. Near by we have a busy
-street scene, showing old houses belonging
-to Hindu merchants.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>25.<br />
-The Court of
-Justice, Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>26.<br />
-Mayo School of Art,
-Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>27.<br />
-The same—Wood-working.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>28.<br />
-The Same—Metal-working.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>29.<br />
-Statuette of
-Buddha.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-At Lahore there are a number of really
-handsome modern buildings. We have in
-this view the Court of Justice, situated in
-the chief street, the Mall. Next is the
-fine building of the Lahore School of
-Art, showing students sketching out of
-doors, and then a number of Punjabis in
-the wood-working room of the school.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>Here is the metal-working department.
-At the back of the room some senior
-students are finishing a large lamp in
-hammered brass-work, which was afterwards
-exhibited in London. The Lahore Museum, a corner
-of which we saw just now in the view of the “Kim” gun,
-is another fine building, containing among other curiosities a
-statuette of Buddha after his forty-nine
-days’ fast, excavated at Sikri near Peshawar.
-This statuette, some three feet high
-and two feet broad, is one of the finest
-examples of ancient sculpture found in India. It is carved
-with extreme delicacy and refinement, and is supposed to
-date back to about the first century of the Christian era.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>30.<br />
-Bridge of Boats
-over the Ravi, near
-Lahore.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>31.<br />
-Jehangir’s tomb.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-We will drive out from Lahore to the west of the city
-on the high road to Peshawar. We pass the Musulman
-cemetery and the Hindu burning ground, and then reach
-the banks of the Ravi. A bridge of boats
-crosses the river a little below the railway
-bridge. Here we turn aside from the
-Peshawar road and reach Shahdara, where
-is the tomb of the Emperor Jehangir. In
-this picture we have a close view of part
-of it, showing the inlaid marble. Near
-by is the ruined tomb of Jehangir’s wife,
-Nur Jehan. It was probably never finished, and has
-been neglected.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>32.<br />
-Edwardes Gate,
-Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>33.<br />
-Kissa Kahani,
-Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>34.<br />
-Police Station,
-Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>35.<br />
-Silk Market,
-Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>36.<br />
-In the Silk Market,
-Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-From Lahore we travel by the Northwestern Railway
-to Peshawar, a distance of nearly three hundred
-miles. Peshawar, as we have already learned, is the most
-important garrison city on the Northwest Frontier,
-and the capital of the recently created Northwest
-Frontier Province. It has about a
-hundred thousand inhabitants, chiefly
-Musulmans. Here we see the Edwardes
-Gate, with its fine pointed arch, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>passing through it we enter the Kissa
-Kahani, the Lombard Street of Peshawar.
-The Edwardes Gate may be
-seen from within at the end of the
-street. Here is the Kotwali, or Police
-Station, and just within the gateway of
-the Kotwali is the Silk Market. Peshawar
-is a most important commercial centre
-on the great road from Samarkand and
-Bokhara in Central Asia, through Kabul
-and the Khyber, to Lahore and Delhi.
-In the bazaar we find representatives
-of many Asiatic races. Here we see
-skeins of Chinese silk, red and white
-and yellow, hung out in the sun to dry
-after being dyed. Near by are the stalls of bankers
-and money-changers, which are sometimes raided by the
-wild tribesmen visiting Peshawar from the neighbourhood
-of the Khyber Pass.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>37.<br />
-Ghor Khatri,
-Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>38.<br />
-Peshawar from the
-Ghor Khatri,
-looking north.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>39.<br />
-The Same, looking
-west.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-In the northeastern corner of Peshawar
-is the famous Ghor Khatri, which stands
-on a piece of rising ground commanding
-a fine view over the whole city. Here is
-a part of the building, with a bullock cart in front. The
-Ghor Khatri was successively a Buddhist Monastery and
-a Hindu temple, and is now used as
-municipal offices and as the official
-residence of the agents of the Ameer
-of Afghanistan when they visit Peshawar.
-We climb to the roof and look upon
-the city beneath. A second view is in
-the direction of Jamrud and the Khyber.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>40.<br />
-Gymnastic Class,
-Government High
-School, Peshawar.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>41.<br />
-Lowest Class, same
-School.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Here in Peshawar, on the very border of British rule, it
-is interesting to see the progress of western education.
-This is the Government High School.
-A class is in the playground under
-gymnastic instruction. The boys are
-mostly Musulmans, though a few Hindus
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>may be distinguished by their caps
-in the place of turbans. This is the
-lowest class of the school, and is being
-taught reading and writing by a native
-master. Notice that the boys’ shoes have been taken off.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>42.<br />
-Jamrud.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>43.<br />
-Khyber Rifles
-drilling.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>44.<br />
-Khyber Rifles
-marching.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>45.<br />
-Zakka Khel Afridis.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>46.<br />
-The Sarai, Jamrud.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>47.<br />
-Caravan, near
-Jamrud.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>48.<br />
-Ali Masjid.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>49.<br />
-Ali Masjid, nearer
-view.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>50.<br />
-A Subadar, 59th
-Sind Rifles.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Jamrud, at the immediate entrance to
-the Khyber, lies some nine miles west of
-Peshawar. Here is a distant view of it
-from the Peshawar road. To the right
-can just be seen the Fort, and to the
-left Jamrud Village. Next we see a
-company of the Khyber Rifles, photographed
-at Jamrud, and here the same
-company marching. By way of striking
-contrast, are a group of the Zakka Khel
-Afridis in their native dress. They are
-the raw material from which the Khyber
-Riflemen are made. Typical wild tribesmen
-of the hills, they have been enlisted in the British Army
-to keep them out of mischief, and also to assist in repelling
-raids by their fellow-tribesmen, who continue to dwell amid
-the hill fastnesses of the region. The Afridis, of whom the
-Zakka Khel is a clan, seem perfectly well content, provided
-that there is fighting, which they love for its own sake. Here
-we see the Sarai at Jamrud, where all
-caravans going into India or returning to
-Central Asia halt for the night. The
-men in this picture are mostly Kabulis,
-with long-haired Bactrian camels from Central Asia,
-stronger and finer than the Indian species. These camels
-are laden with tea, sugar, and general
-supplies. Outside Jamrud we see a
-caravan of Indian camels taking stores
-back to Peshawar after operations in the Khyber against the
-hill tribes. Beyond Jamrud the road
-enters the Khyber, with the sweeping
-curve seen in this view. The Fort of Ali
-Masjid, nearly three thousand feet above
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>sea level, crowns a steeply sloping hill on
-the crest of the path between Jamrud
-and Landi Kotal, where begins the descent
-into Afghanistan. Here is a nearer view,
-with the tents of an expeditionary force at the foot
-of the Fort. It shows the continuation of the way in
-the direction of Landi Kotal. Notice how steep are the
-cliffs and how narrow the Pass at this point. Beneath the
-Fort, in the face of the hill, are seen caves
-in which dwell during the winter months
-the wild clan known as the Kuchi Khel.
-Finally, we have a portrait, painted in the
-camp at Ali Masjid, of Nasar Khan, a Subadar, or native
-officer, of the 59th Sind Rifles.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>We now leave the Khyber region and, following the
-Indus for some six hundred miles, we travel southward
-through a land which was not very long ago a desert.
-To-day, as the result of a great investment of British
-capital, irrigation works have changed the whole aspect
-of the country. The provinces of the Punjab and
-Sind have hitherto been regarded as significant chiefly in
-relation to the defence of the Northwest Frontier of India.
-They have now no less importance when considered in
-their economic development. The plain of the Indus has
-become one of the chief wheatfields of the British
-Empire, for wheat is the principal crop in the Punjab, in
-parts of Sind, and outside the basin of the Indus itself,
-in the districts of the United Provinces which lie about
-Agra. The wheat production of India on an average
-of years is five times as great as that of the United Kingdom,
-and about half as great as that of the United States. In
-one recent year at least, the export of wheat from India to
-the United Kingdom has exceeded that from the United
-States to the United Kingdom.</p>
-
-<p class='c020'>The brown waste of the plains of the Punjab becomes
-after the winter rains a waving sea of green wheat extending
-over thousands of square miles. Cultivation now spreads
-far beyond the area within which the rainfall alone suffices.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>The lower Punjab and the central strip of Sind have been
-converted into a second Egypt. Though the navigation of
-the Indus is naturally inferior to that of the Ganges, yet
-communication has been maintained by boat from the
-Punjab to the sea from Greek times downward. The Indus
-flotilla of steamboats has, however, suffered fatally from the
-competition of the Northwestern Railway, and the wheat
-exported from Karachi is now almost wholly rail-borne.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>51.<br />
-The Lansdowne
-Bridge.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>52.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>53.<br />
-Khwaja Khizir
-Island.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Running southward through the fertile strip, not very far
-from the left or western bank of the river, the railway
-leaves the Punjab and enters Sind. At Rohri, one of
-the hottest places in all India in the summer time, a
-line branches northwestward to Quetta and Chaman, on
-the frontier of Afghanistan. Sukkur stands opposite to
-Rohri on the right bank of the river, and the Lansdowne
-Railway Bridge between these two towns is perhaps the
-most remarkable bridge in India. It was built between
-1887 and 1889, and about three thousand tons of steel and iron
-were employed in its construction. It is eight hundred and
-forty feet in length, with two magnificent
-spans. We see in this slide a view of the
-Rohri end of it, taken from Suttian, an old
-nunnery founded for women who preferred
-seclusion rather than the funeral pyre. The Hindu custom
-was to burn the wife or wives with the husband’s body,
-until the British Government intervened to prevent the
-practice. One end of the town of Rohri, with its tall
-grey wattle and daub buildings, can be seen under the
-bridge. A train is upon the bridge, and in front are
-some Pala fishers, sailing on metal chatties into which
-they put the fish as they catch them. This is another
-view of the bridge seen from Rohri
-itself. We are here in the very heart of
-the rainless region. During twelve years
-there have only been six showers at Rohri! A great
-engineering scheme is now under consideration for
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>damming the Indus near this point so as to raise the level
-of the water in the upper reaches of the river. In this
-manner the irrigation canals would be fed not only in time
-of flood, as at present, but in the dry season as well. Near
-Rohri, in the middle of the Indus channel,
-is Khwaja Khizir Island, on which stands
-an ancient Hindu temple. In the foreground
-of the picture near the water’s
-edge are Sindi boatmen mending their sails.</p>
-<p class='c024'>From Sukkur, passing through Shikarpur and Jacobabad,
-the railway traverses the desert to the foot of the
-hills, and then ascends to Quetta either by the Mashkaf—the
-actual line of the Bolan having been abandoned—or by
-a longer loop line, the Harnai, which runs to the Peshin
-valley. The latter is the usual way. By the Mashkaf
-route the line is carried over a boulder-strewn plain
-about half a mile broad in the bottom of a gorge with
-steeply rising heights on either side. Here and there
-the strip of lower ground is trenched and split by deep
-canyons. At first the line follows the Mashkaf river, and the
-gradients are not very severe, but once Hirok, at the source
-of the Bolan river is passed, a gradient of one in twenty-five
-begins, and two powerful engines are required to drag the
-train up. The steep bounding ridges now close in on
-either side with cliffs rising almost perpendicularly to several
-hundred feet. Occasional block-houses high up amid the
-crags defend the Pass.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>54.<br />
-The Chappar Rift.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-<span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>55.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The gradients of the Harnai route are not quite so steep as
-those of the Mashkaf. Should either way be blocked or
-carried away by landslips or floods the other would be
-available. The Harnai line passes through
-the Chappar Rift, a precipitous gorge in a
-great mass of limestone. In this view we
-are approaching the Rift from Mangi, and
-then we have a view looking back from
-the middle of the Rift. As will be
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>seen, the railway runs across high bridges and through
-tunnels in the mountain masses.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>56.<br />
-Native Bazaar,
-Quetta.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-Quetta occupies a very important strategical position,
-about a mile above sea level, in the midst of a small plain
-surrounded by great mountain ridges rising to a height of
-two miles and more. Irrigation works have been constructed
-in the Quetta plain, which is now an oasis among desert
-mountains, and has a population of some thirty thousand,
-including many Afghans. The Agent General for British
-Baluchistan resides there. The town, with its outposts,
-is of course very strongly fortified, commanding as it does
-the railways leading southeastward to the Indus, and
-the Khojak Pass leading northwestward to Chaman and
-Kandahar. Here we have a scene in
-the native bazaar, with Hindus performing
-a festival dance.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>57.<br />
-Street in Chaman.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-From Quetta the railway is carried northwestward,
-through the Khojak tunnel, for another hundred and
-twenty miles to Chaman on the frontier, where is a
-British outpost. Here is a street in
-Chaman, with two old Pathans. Chaman
-is at present the terminus of the railway.
-The material is, however, kept ready for
-its continuation, in case of need, to Kandahar, in Afghanistan,
-seventy miles further. From Kandahar through
-Herat to the rail-head of the Russian Trans-Caspian
-Railway is some four hundred miles. By this route, did
-circumstances allow, a connection might be made, giving
-through railway communication between Europe and India.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>58.<br />
-The Proclamation
-of the Queen-Empress
-at the
-Delhi Durbar,
-1st Jan., 1877.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-At this last outpost of British Power we complete our
-journey through the great Indian Empire. It was with no
-intention of Empire that a few London merchants formed
-themselves into an East India Company in the days of
-Queen Elizabeth. It was with no great force of white
-soldiers that the conquest was in after centuries effected,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>but by the organisation of Indian strength in a time of
-disorder, due to the downfall of the Mogul Empire at
-Delhi. Province was added to province under the British
-Raj of no set design and ambition, but for defensive
-reasons under the threat of French or Maratha or Sikh
-rivalry. In the great Mutiny the system of power and
-administration, thus upbuilt almost casually, was tested,
-and it survived the test, but with a fundamental change.
-The East India Company was dissolved, and the
-British Government made itself directly responsible for
-peace and order in the Indian Continent.
-The proclamation by which Queen Victoria
-assumed the rule of India solemnly
-promised that in the administration of
-the country due regard should be paid
-to the ancient rights, usages, and customs
-of India. The change which was made in 1858, after
-the Mutiny, was completed in 1877, when at a great durbar
-of the princes of India, held at Delhi, Queen Victoria was
-proclaimed Empress of India.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>59.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The British Raj in India is an organisation
-unparalleled in history, for the
-Roman Empire consisted of provinces
-grouped round the Imperial City, but
-Britain is a quarter of the globe removed
-from India. Our power ultimately rests
-on our command of the seas and on the
-justice of our administration. When either of these fail, the
-British position in India will crumble. Within our duty of
-justice is included the generous but firmly-directed readjustment
-of the methods of Indian government, so as to
-adapt them to the now changing conditions of oriental
-society.</p>
-<p class='c024'><span class='sni'><span class='hidev'>|</span>60.<br />
-The Same.<span class='hidev'>|</span></span>
-The responsibility for India is, indeed, a great one. It
-is idle to ask whether our forefathers should have assumed
-it. We could not withdraw now without throwing India
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>into disorder, and causing untold suffering among three
-hundred million of our fellow human beings. Yet the
-administration of such an Empire calls for virtues in our
-race certainly not less than those needed for our own self-government.
-Above all, we require knowledge of India,
-and sympathy with the points of view begotten of
-oriental history.</p>
-<hr class='c037' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c010'>
- <div>LIST OF VICEROYS OF INDIA SINCE THE TRANSFER</div>
- <div>OF THE ADMINISTRATION FROM THE EAST INDIA</div>
- <div>COMPANY TO THE CROWN IN 1858.</div>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<table class='table2' summary=''>
-<colgroup>
-<col width='71%' />
-<col width='28%' />
-</colgroup>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Viscount Canning</span>, to March,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1862</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Earl of Elgin</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1862-3</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Sir John Lawrence</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1864-9</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Earl of Mayo</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1869-72</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Lord Northbrook</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1872-6</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Lord Lytton</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1876-80</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Marquess of Ripon</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1880-84</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Earl of Dufferin</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1884-88</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Marquess of Lansdowne</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1888-94</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Earl of Elgin</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1894-99</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Lord Curzon of Kedleston</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1899-1905</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Earl of Minto</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1905-1910</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class='c032'><span class='sc'>Lord Hardinge</span>,</td>
- <td class='c038'>1910</td>
- </tr>
-</table>
-<hr class='c037' />
-<p class='c024'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Note</span> (<span class='fss'>I</span>).—Many of the artistic and other objects mentioned in the
-preceding pages can be better appreciated after a visit to the Indian
-Museum at South Kensington.</span></p>
-
-<p class='c020'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Note</span> (<span class='fss'>II</span>).—The thanks of the Committee are due for a few of the
-slides to Colonel Frederick Firebrace, R.E., Managing Director of the
-Great Indian Peninsula Railway Company, and to Mr. A. L. Hetherington,
-of the Board of Education.</span></p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c010' />
-</div>
-<p class='c020'>&nbsp;</p>
-<div class='tnbox'>
-
- <ul class='ul_1 c010'>
- <li>Transcriber’s Notes:
- <ul class='ul_2'>
- <li>Additional line spacing has been added before paragraphs with side notes to make
- more room for the them.
- </li>
- <li>Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
- </li>
- <li>Typographical errors were silently corrected.
- </li>
- <li>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant
- form was found in this book.
- </li>
- </ul>
- </li>
- </ul>
-
-</div>
-<p class='c020'>&nbsp;</p>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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