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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-04 06:53:57 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-04 06:53:57 -0800 |
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text-align:right; } -dt.lr { width:100%; margin-left:0em; margin-right:0em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:1em; text-align:right; } -dl dt.lr a { text-align:left; clear:left; float:left; } - -.fnblock { margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:2em; } -.fndef, p.fn { text-align:justify; margin-top:1.5em; margin-left:1.5em; text-indent:-1.5em; } -.fndef p.fncont, .fndef dl { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0em; } -.fnblock div.fncont { margin-left:1.5em; text-indent:0em; margin-top:1em; text-align:justify; } -.fnblock dl { margin-top:0; margin-left:4em; text-indent:-2em; } -.fnblock dt { text-align:justify; } -dl.catalog dd { font-style:italic; } -dl.catalog dt { margin-top:1em; } -.author { text-align:right; margin-top:0em; margin-bottom:0em; display:block; } - -dl.biblio dt { margin-top:.6em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt div { display:block; float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; text-indent:0; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -p.biblio { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.pcap { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0; text-align:center; margin-top:0; font-family:sans-serif; font-size:80%; font-weight:bold; } -p.pcapc { margin-left:4em; text-indent:0em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -dl.pcap { margin-left:4em; font-family:sans-serif; font-size:80%; } -span.attr { font-size:80%; font-family:sans-serif; } -span.pn { display:inline-block; width:4.7em; text-align:left; margin-left:0; text-indent:0; } -</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: How to Make Draperies - Singer Sewing Library, No. 102 - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: September 24, 2020 [EBook #63282] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="How to Make Draperies" width="583" height="800" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<p class="jr1"><span class="rubric"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">29<sup>c</sup></span></span></span></p> -<h1><span class="smaller">How to Make</span> -<br />Draperies</h1> -<dl class="undent"><dt><i>Instructions for</i></dt> -<dd><span class="rubric">•</span> <span class="ss">Fabrics</span></dd> -<dd><span class="rubric">•</span> <span class="ss">Color</span></dd> -<dd><span class="rubric">•</span> <span class="ss">Design</span></dd> -<dd><span class="rubric">•</span> <span class="ss">Measurements</span></dd> -<dd><span class="rubric">•</span> <span class="ss">Construction</span></dd></dl> -<p class="center"><i>Published by</i> -<br /><span class="small"><span class="ss">THE SINGER COMPANY</span></span></p> -<p class="center"><span class="small"><span class="ss">Book No. 102</span></span></p> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p01.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="581" height="800" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/singer.jpg" alt="SINGER Sewing Library" width="251" height="300" /> -</div> -<h1 title=""><span class="smaller">How to Make</span> -<br />Draperies</h1> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt><a id="toc" class="ss">CONTENTS</a> <i>page</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#c1"><i>Fabrics</i></a> <i>3</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#c2"><i>Color and Design</i></a> <i>7</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#c3"><i>Selection of Needles and Thread</i></a> <i>8</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#c4"><i>Window Measurements</i></a> <i>11</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#c5"><i>Construction Details</i></a> <i>15</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#c6"><i>Measuring for Pleats</i></a> <i>26</i></dt> -</dl> -<p class="jr1"><span class="small"><i>Copyright© 1960 by The Singer Company</i></span></p> -<p class="smaller"><i>Copyright under International Copyright Union • All Rights Reserved under Inter-America Copyright -Union • No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.</i></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="577" height="800" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<h2 id="c1"><span class="small"><i>Fabrics</i></span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02a.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="239" /> -</div> -<p>Drapery fabrics are available to us -today in an overwhelming variety -for every decor—not only in the -traditional fabrics, but also in the -many new synthetics and blends.</p> -<p>Whether the room is traditional, -modern, formal or informal, you -need only visit the drapery fabric -department to realize what a wide -choice of fabrics are available in -either group.</p> -<p>Windows are so much a part of the -background that the fabric chosen, -its texture, color and line, and the -design of the curtains, draperies -and slip covers must be in keeping -with the atmosphere of the room -and contribute to the over-all effect.</p> -<p>For the very formal treatment, -you’ll want to choose something in -the Damask designs, taffetas, moires, -brocades, satins, brocatelles or -the many blends of the pure and -man-made fibers, some with metallic -threads woven in. Fringes and -tassels are used as trims, and the -window treatment would include -draped valances, swags, cascades, -elaborate cornices, tie-backs, etc.</p> -<p>For the less formal or informal -<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span> -room, the choice of fabric is even -wider—linens in medium and sheer -weights, prints and lacey patterns, -marquisette, scrim, voile, ninon, -denim, sailcloth, chintz, polished -cotton, antique satin, organdy, batiste -and many blends of synthetics, -such as Fortisan and rayon or silk. -The curtain treatment should be -simple. If valances are used, they -should be plain with straight lines.</p> -<p>Many of the new synthetic fibers -are a real advantage to the home-maker -because of their easy washing -and quick drying properties. -Some require very little pressing, -if any.</p> -<p>In estimating the yardage required, -consider the length of the drapery, -before finishing hems and heading, -and the width of the window or -space to be covered. An allowance -of 2½ or 3 times the width should -be made for fullness. When using -sheer fabrics, draperies should be -full enough to hang in easy, graceful -folds. Over-curtains or draperies -of medium weight fabrics require -a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the -width. Also, if you select a fabric -with a large one-way design, some -allowance should be made for -matching the design so all lengths -will balance.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For example:</i></span> The window is 64″ -wide which requires 4 widths of -48″ wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. -The drapery lengths are 2⅓ -yards long. If a plain fabric or overall -design is used, the fabric required -would be 9⅓ yards, but if -the fabric has a 24″ repeat pattern, -you must allow 1⅓ yards more, or -a total of 10⅔ yards for matching -the design.</p> -<p>Consider the width of the fabric -when figuring the number of widths -for fullness. Some fabrics are only -36″ wide—chintz and some polished -cottons, for example. Others may -run 40″—48″—even 54″ or 60″ in -width; but the average is about -48″ wide.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="" width="305" height="409" /> -<p class="pcap">Grain lines of fabric.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>⇐Crosswise Grain—Weft or Filling⇒</dt> -<dt>⇐Lengthwise Grain—Warp⇒</dt> -<dt>⇐True Bias⇒</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<p>Draperies must be cut on the true -lengthwise and crosswise grain of -the fabric so that when hung, they -fall straight from the rod in even, -graceful folds.</p> -<p>In weaving, yarns are threaded -lengthwise on a loom which form -the warp of the fabric. Another -yarn is interlaced back and forth -crosswise and is called the weft or -filling thread. This is known as the -plain weave. Linen, voile, chintz, -etc., are a few of the plain woven -fabrics. There are variations of the -plain weave, such as the pile weave, -with velveteen and corduroy as examples. -The basket weave is another, -with Monk’s cloth as an -example. The diagonal line halfway -between the lengthwise and crosswise -threads is the bias of the fabric.</p> -<p>The twill weave is perhaps one of -the most durable. The filling yarn -forms a diagonal line, passing over -one warp yarn and under two or -more. Denim, drill cloth and ticking -are examples of this weave.</p> -<p>The satin weave is an irregular -weave where one yarn passes over -several yarns of the other set before -interweaving, forming a floating, -lustrous surface.</p> -<p>Weaves are used in combinations to -obtain the various patterns in Damasks, -brocades, Jacquards, etc.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p03a.jpg" alt="" width="495" height="395" /> -<p class="pcap">Cutting on true crosswise grain.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<p>The yarns made from the different -fibers—the natural, man-made and -blended fibers—are of various sizes, -weights, smoothness and fuzziness. -The type of yarns used in the different -weaves influences the texture of -the fabric as well as its weight, -lustre and durability.</p> -<p>When cutting drapery lengths, be -sure to start with a true crosswise -grain. Most firmly woven plain -weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the -selvage before you tear the fabric. -Linens, loosely woven and nubby -fabrics, novelty weaves and many -others will not tear satisfactorily. -To straighten these, it is necessary -to pull a thread crosswise and cut -on pulled line.</p> -<p>After cutting lengths, check to see -if the ends of the fabric are square. -If not, square the crosswise edge -by pulling the low corner on a -true bias from opposite side of the -fabric. Sometimes dampening the -fabric will relax the threads and -make straightening easier.</p> -<h4>ESTIMATE OF YARDAGE</h4> -<table class="center"> -<tr><td class="l">DRAPERIES</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="hst"><i>Full Length Window—48″ Material</i></span> </td><td class="l">6 </td><td class="c">YARDS</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="hst"><i>Full Length Window with Valance</i></span> </td><td class="l">6½ </td><td class="c">″</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">LINING—<i>Full Length Window</i> </td><td class="l">5¼ </td><td class="c">″</td></tr> -</table> -<blockquote> -<p>These figures are the approximate requirements. Always, where -possible, take careful measurements for more accurate estimate. -It is much better to have extra material than not enough.</p> -<p>When using materials with a large floral pattern or plaid, -allow one full length of the motif for each additional length -required for draperies.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div> -<h2 id="c2"><span class="small"><i>Color and Design</i></span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="483" /> -</div> -<p>Color has a language all its own—It -expresses, it soothes, it stimulates, -it creates; it can give you a lift. -And color as a home decorator can -be made to work like magic. With -color, the dullest rooms can be made -to sparkle with warmth and good -cheer. Any color scheme is good as -long as it is balanced and it pleases -you. A number of colors, tints and -shades may be used in one room, -but one color should be dominant -and it should be used in different -areas of the room. The second color -should be subordinate, not of the -same value. Then a third color may -be used for accent or contrast. The -neutral colors: gray, white and -black, are good background or accent -colors.</p> -<p>Do not overlook the possibilities of -accessories, such as pillows, vases, -china, lamps and books to supply -an accent color to complete your -color scheme.</p> -<p>Your color scheme may be taken -from a favorite picture, a family -heirloom or may express the interests -and personalities of the family. -Consider also the location of the -room—East, West, North or South—and -how the light enters the room.</p> -<p>There are three primary colors—red, -yellow and blue. These colors -are mixed to obtain secondary -colors. For example, red and yellow -produce the color orange; red and -blue, the color violet and blue and -yellow, the color green. By blending -these six colors we complete the -color wheel which is made up of -<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span> -red, red orange, orange, yellow, -yellow green, green, blue green, -blue, blue violet and violet.</p> -<p>We refer to certain colors as warm, -others as cool and still others as -neither warm nor cool. The warm -colors are red, yellow and orange. -The cool colors are the blues. Green -is neither warm nor cool but if -mixed with yellow, it becomes -warm; when mixed with blue, it -becomes a cool color.</p> -<p>Color and line apparently change -the size of the room. Cool, light -colors and vertical lines make walls -appear higher and the room larger, -while warm colors and horizontal -lines seem to lower the ceiling and -draw the walls nearer.</p> -<p>For North and East rooms, use -warm colors. If little light enters -in, use light shades of the warm -colors. Use the cool colors in rooms -with South or West exposures.</p> -<p>When purchasing your fabrics for -curtains, draperies and slip covers, -keep in mind the overall effect. -Consider the room exposure, light, -size of room, furniture arrangement -and what color and design -will do to create a room you will -always enjoy. Since windows are -a very important part of the room -as a unit, the fabric chosen for -curtains or draperies should also -be used to slip cover a sofa or chair, -a dressing table cover, or a dust -ruffle for the bed.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="215" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c3"><i>Selection of Needles and Thread</i></h3> -<p>Sewing thread should blend as -nearly as possible with the fabric -in color, fiber and size. Silk and -wool fabrics are stitched with silk -thread. Cottons, linens and some -blended fabrics are stitched with -cotton thread or mercerized thread. -The synthetic fabrics and blends of -the pure and man-made fibers may -be stitched with silk, mercerized -<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span> -cotton, nylon or Dacron (DuPont) -thread. The needle is selected with -consideration to both the thread -and the fabric.</p> -<p>With fabrics used for glass curtains -and for sheer curtains, such as -organdy, voile, “Dacron,” dotted -Swiss, marquisettes, batiste and -sheer linen, use a fine cotton thread, -size 80 or 90, or a mercerized -thread. Use a size 14 needle for -mercerized thread and a size 11 for -finer threads, including “Dacron” -for “Dacron” fabrics, organdy, -“Dacron,” marquisette, dotted -Swiss, lawn, batiste and rayon lend -themselves beautifully to the use of -sewing machine attachments for -ruffling, tucking, hemming, etc. -Fiberglas stitches well and is best -suited to straight panel type curtains -with pleated headings. Use a -mercerized thread and size 14 machine -needle for Fortisan, synthetics -and the many blends.</p> -<p>The average machine stitch length -for these fabrics should be about -12 stitches to the inch and the tensions -easy enough to prevent puckering -the fabrics, particularly sheer -fabrics, such as batiste, nylons, -ninons and soft rayon blends.</p> -<p>For Damask, brocades, taffetas, -satins, etc., use silk or mercerized -thread, size 14 or 11 needles of 12 -to 14 stitches per inch.</p> -<p>Heavy weight fabrics, namely, -linens, cotton Damasks, sailcloth, -ticking, denims, etc., require a -heavy-duty thread, a size 16 needle -and a 12 stitch length.</p> -<p>For light or medium weight fabrics -comparable to polished cottons, -Chintz, linens, Glosheen, percale, -antique satin and faille, use a mercerized -thread, a size 14 needle and -a 12 or 14 stitch length.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05a.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="292" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="443" height="801" /> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>RETURN</dt> -<dt>RETURN</dt> -<dt>FIXTURE</dt> -<dt>WIDTH</dt> -<dt>FLOOR LENGTH</dt> -<dt>FRAME</dt> -<dt>JAM</dt> -<dt>SASH</dt> -<dt>SILL</dt> -<dt>SILL LENGTH</dt> -<dt>APRON</dt> -<dt>APRON LENGTH</dt> -<dt>BASEBOARD</dt> -<dt>CLEAR RUG</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<h2 id="c4"><span class="small"><i>Window Measurements</i></span></h2> -<p>Before taking measurements, there -are several points that should be -taken into consideration: Is the -window in proportion to the room? -Will it contribute properly to the -effect you wish to achieve? Do you -have the right rods for hanging the -type of drapery selected?</p> -<p>When you are satisfied with the window, -then it is time to consider the -type of materials for draperies and -decide on the type of rod required.</p> -<p>It is a good idea to make a sketch -of the room, noting the placement -of windows and arrangement of -furniture. Also take the width and -height measurement of each window. -Then visit the curtain and drapery -department to get an idea of -the type of fixtures available. At -the same time, obtain small samples -of the fabrics suited to the type of -drapery you have in mind. Examine -them in the room where they are to -be used. Are they the right texture? -Are the colors lively enough? Will -they create the desired effect?</p> -<p>Purchase and mount the rods for -the draperies. Fixtures should be -mounted so that draperies, when -hung, will cover the window frame. -Now you are ready to take measurements.</p> -<p>There are three correct lengths for -draperies—to the sill—to the lower -edge of the apron—or to the floor. -Full length draperies should just -clear the floor or be long enough -to crush on the floor.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For length</i></span>—Measure from the top -of the rod down—to the sill—to the -lower edge of apron—or to the floor.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For width</i></span>—Measure from edge to -edge of window frame or from outer -edges of fixture brackets. To this -measurement add the “return” at -either end; that is, the length from -curve of rod to the wall.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div> -<h4>Estimating Yardage for Over-Curtains or Draperies</h4> -<p>The type of heading, the width of -lower hem and the type of drapery; -that is, lined, unlined or interlined, -must be considered when estimating -the yardage required. The fullness -of draperies averages about -twice the width of the space to be -covered.</p> -<p>A stiffening; such as a strip of crinoline -or buckram is used at the top -to support the pleats.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For Lined Draperies</i></span>—To length -measurement, add 1″ for heading, -4″ for hem and 3½″ for bottom -hem.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>Example</i></span>—If length from top of rod -is 90″, add 1″ plus 4″ plus 3½″. -This equals 98½″ for one length, -or 5½ yards for the two lengths.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For Unlined Draperies</i></span>—To length -measurement, add 1″ for heading, -4½″ for top hem and seam, and -3½″ for lower hem. A 4″ wide strip -of crinoline is used at the top of -both lined and unlined drapes.</p> -<p>If a double hem is used at the bottom, -then add 6″ instead of 3½″ -for hem in either lined or unlined -drapes.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For Interlined Draperies</i></span>—To -length measurement, add 1″ for -heading, 3″ for top hem and 3″ for -bottom hem.</p> -<p>When using ready-made headings -for pleats, add to the length measurement -1½″ for heading and -seam, and 3½″ for bottom hem.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="471" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>French Doors or Window</i></p> -<p class="pcapc">The rod should be placed so that the drapery, -when hung, covers the glass portion of the window. -Take measurement from top of upper rod to -lower part of lower rod. To this measurement, -add 2½″ at the top and 2½″ at the bottom. This -allows for a 1½″ hem, top and bottom, plus ¼″ -seam allowance. The 1½″ hem is for a ¾″ casing -and ¾″ heading.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>FIXTURE</dt> -<dt>FOR WIDTH</dt> -<dt>MEASURE FROM TOP AND BOTTOM OF FIXTURE</dt> -<dt>FIXTURE</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<h4>Recessed Windows</h4> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p07f.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="272" height="314" /> -</div> -<p>When draperies are hung flush with the wall, -measurements are taken inside the recess. A -spring socket type of fixture is available for this -type of window. Always measure from the top of -the rod, except for Cafe curtains. Usually a ring, -“sew-on” or “clip-on” type is used. In this case, -measure from lower part of circle to lower part -of next section, or to the sill. Add depth of top -finish plus hem to this measurement.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p07f1.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="116" /> -<p class="pcap">Oval spring socket.<span class="hst"> Round spring socket.</span></p> -</div> -<h4>Sliding Windows or Doors</h4> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p07f2.jpg" alt="" width="325" height="485" /> -<p class="pcap">Hook over or dual wheel -design. Cord tension pulley. -Install on wall, baseboard -or floor.</p> -</div> -<p>These windows are usually treated as one. Draperies, -in two sections, are hung on a pole or traverse -rod and are drawn to the center, one section -overlapping the other about 2″. Take length -measurement from top of rod to the floor. To this -measurement, add 5½″ for heading and top hem -and 3½″ for bottom hem. If double hems are -used, add 9″ at the top plus 6″ for bottom hem. -To the width, add 3″ at either end for return of -curtain from fixture to wall.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p07f3.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="160" /> -<p class="pcap">Two-way traverse rod.</p> -</div> -<h4>Projected Window</h4> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p07g.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="495" height="593" /> -</div> -<p>To permit ease when opening or closing the window, -the fixture should extend a little beyond -the window on either side. Use a simple fixture, -an oval or round rod, and a draw type of drapery. -If drapery is to be shirred on the rod, take measurement -from top of rod to lower edge of window. -To length measurement, add 2½″ for a 1½″ -hem which forms the casing and heading, and -2¾″ to 2½″ bottom hem. If <i>sew-on</i> or <i>clip-on -rings are used, measure</i> from lower circle of ring -to edge of window. To this measurement, add -depth of top and bottom hem.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p07m.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="56" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div> -<h4>Awning Window</h4> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="516" height="649" /> -</div> -<p>The type of drapery determines points of measurement. -With tier type draperies, one for each -section of the window, the measurements are -taken from top to bottom of each section. Draperies -hung from the top extending to lower edge -of window or floor are measured from top of fixture -for length desired. Tier type or cafe sections -should be long enough to overlap the heading of -the section below. Follow same procedure for -measuring as for projected window. These draperies -should be full—1½ times the width for medium -weight fabrics, such as Chintz, Glosheen, -etc., to three times the width when using sheer -fabrics.</p> -<h4>Methods of installing</h4> -<p>Curtain and drapery rods, brackets -and valance boards should be mounted -securely to the wall to support -heavy draperies. This can be a problem -unless you use the right screws -or bolts. There is a correct screw and -bolt available for every type of wall—brick, -concrete or plaster walls.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p08f.jpg" alt="" width="112" height="74" /> -<p class="pcap">PLASTER SCREW—For -plaster or dry walls.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p08g.jpg" alt="" width="125" height="88" /> -<p class="pcap">PLASTIC PLUG—Use in -brick wall for plug, -then insert screw.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p08h.jpg" alt="" width="159" height="104" /> -<p class="pcap">MOLLY BOLT—Use in -plaster, brick or concrete -wall.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p08k.jpg" alt="" width="152" height="99" /> -<p class="pcap">TOGGLE BOLT—Use in -frame or plaster walls -where there is a separation -between outer -and inner walls.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<h2 id="c5"><span class="small"><i>Construction Details</i></span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p08m.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="494" /> -</div> -<p>Draperies or over curtains are made -of medium weight or heavy fabrics. -They may be unlined, lined or lined -and interlined, depending on the -fabric and its treatment—whether -formal or informal.</p> -<p>There are three accepted lengths -for draperies—to the window sill—to -the bottom of the window apron—or -to the floor. Floor length is -most generally used, and for very -formal treatments, the drapery is -often made long enough to crush -on the floor. Draperies hang straight -from the rod to the floor. If they -meet at the top center, they may be -draped to either side and held with -ornamental tie-backs or those made -of the same material.</p> -<p>When the type and design of draperies -have been decided upon and -the right type of rods have been -mounted, then measurements for -draperies can be taken.</p> -<p>Measure from the top of the rod -down for length desired. Then add -to length measurement the allowance -for top and bottom hems. Review -chapter on “Fabrics” before -cutting lengths for draperies.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div> -<h4><span id="unlined">Unlined Draperies</span></h4> -<p>These draperies are informal in -treatment and are usually made of -light or medium weight fabrics. -Most any type of top finish, shirring -or pleats is suitable. A plain -valance or cornice board may be -used. For a pleated heading, allow -5½″ at the top for heading and -5½″ at the bottom for a 2½″ double -hem. Cut strips of crinoline or -lawn for stiffening 4″ wide and 3″ -shorter than the width of each drapery -length. Pin strip to underside -of heading ½″ from the top, starting -1½″ from the edge. Stitch along -lower edge of strip, then turn top -edge of fabric over stiffening ½″ -and stitch. Turn top hem to underside -along edge of stiffening. Press -and pin in place.</p> -<p>Side hems may be put in by hand, -machine stitched or blind stitched. -For hand stitching or straight machine -stitching, turn edge ½″ to -underside; then turn 1″ for hem. -Pin hem in place for stitching.</p> -<p>To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag -Sewing Machine or the Zigzag -Attachment, pin hem in place; then -run a row of hand basting ¼″ -from turned edge. With wrong side -of drapery up, turn hem under to -right side, exposing the ¼″ edge. -Turn 2½″ double hem at the bottom -and finish by hand or machine -stitch.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="450" /> -<p class="pcap">Stitch stiffening to top of drapery.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>STIFFENING</dt> -<dt>1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEMS</dt> -<dt>UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL</dt></dl> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/p09c.jpg" alt="" width="382" height="606" /> -<p class="pcap">Finish side hem by hand, using slip-stitch.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/p09d.jpg" alt="" width="206" height="599" /> -<p class="pcap">Side hem basted for blind-stitch hemming.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/p09e.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="437" /> -<p class="pcap">Blind-stitch hemming, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig15"> -<img src="images/p09f.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="394" /> -<p class="pcap">Double hems with corners cut out to relieve bulk.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig16"> -<img src="images/p09f2.jpg" alt="" width="288" height="217" /> -<p class="pcap">Finishing double side hems and bottom hem by hand.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div> -<p>If 1″ double side hems are used, cut -stiffening 4″ shorter than the width -of each drapery length. When using -a heading with woven-in pockets -for pleater pins, (available by the -yard) allow 2″ at the top for heading -and seam. Pin right side of -heading to right side of drapery -⁵/₁₆″ below edge across the top. -Consider the ″return″ of the drapery -at each side, and position -woven-in pockets so that the pleat -comes at the turn of the rod. Stitch, -taking ½″ seam; then turn heading -to underside. Press and stitch ¼″ -from the lower edge of the heading.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig17"> -<img src="images/p10d.jpg" alt="" width="145" height="401" /> -<p class="pcap">Type of hook used for -forming pleats and -hanging draperies.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig18"> -<img src="images/p10f.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="458" /> -<p class="pcap">RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL -<br />Place pleat tape at top, ⁵/₁₆″ -from edge. Stitch ½″ from edge.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEM</dt> -<dt>WRONG SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE</dt></dl> -<div class="img" id="fig19"> -<img src="images/p10f2.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="469" /> -<p class="pcap">Tape turned to underside. Stitch tape to drapery -at lower edge. Machine stitch 1″ side hems.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>SLOTTED SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div> -<h4>Lined Draperies</h4> -<div class="img" id="fig20"> -<img src="images/p10g.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="297" /> -<p class="pcap">Lining in proportion to drapery length.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>2″</dt> -<dt>TOP 4″ HEM</dt> -<dt>7″</dt> -<dt>LINING</dt> -<dt>3″</dt> -<dt>2″</dt></dl> -<p>Draperies are lined for the protection -of the fabric. Linings also give -weight to the draperies, causing -them to hang in deeper folds. A sun-fast -white, soft gray or cream colored -sateen is generally used as the -lining fabric.</p> -<p>Linings, just as drapery fabrics, -must be cut straight with the crosswise -and lengthwise grains.</p> -<p>Always start with a straight crosswise -edge. This is obtained by drawing -a crosswise thread and cutting -on drawn thread. If fabric slopes -up on one edge, then it should be -straightened before pieces are cut.</p> -<p>Very often, when fabrics are rolled -on the boards at the mills, the fabric -is rolled more tightly on one end -than at the other, drawing the -crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal -line. This is apt to be true in -loosely woven fabrics and particularly -lining fabric.</p> -<p>To straighten fabric, first remove -selvages, pull fabric gently but -effectively, stretching it diagonally -from corner to corner; then alternate. -Grasp the fabric so that you -will neither injure nor wrinkle it. -Press before seaming.</p> -<p>Lining should be cut to allow for a -2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ -seam across the top and sides.</p> -<p>Illustration is for a drapery 2½ -yards long, finished with 4″ top -hem, 1″ side hems and 3″ bottom -hem. Drapery length would measure -<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span> -98½″ and lining length, 88½″. -The average hem widths, 3″ and -4″, were used in figuring measurements. -The width of hems vary. -There is no fixed rule. They may be -3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top -and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the bottom. -In many cases the bottom hem -is doubled, particularly in sheer -or lightweight fabrics. Also the -center side hem may be as much as -2″ wide and the outer hem 1″. In -this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower -than the drapery. Before taking -measurements for draperies, review -section on <a class="htm" href="#c4"><i>Window Measurements</i></a>.</p> -<p>To join lining, turn top edge of lining -to underside ½″ and press. Pin -lining and drapery together, starting -7½″ from the top. Stitch from -top of lining down to 4½″ of lower -edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam. -Back-stitch at the beginning and -end of seam. Press seam as stitched; -then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press -the seam open. Pin, from hem to -hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening -to underside across the top. Stitch -and press.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig21"> -<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="284" /> -<p class="pcap">Straightening material—Pull -diagonally from low corner.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig22"> -<img src="images/p11a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="513" /> -<p class="pcap">Joining lining to drapery.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL</dt> -<dt>7½″</dt> -<dt>LINING</dt></dl> -<div class="img" id="fig23"> -<img src="images/p11c.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="492" /> -<p class="pcap">Stiffening stitched to heading.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>STIFFENING</dt> -<dt>1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES</dt> -<dt>UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL</dt></dl> -<p>Turn drapery right side out and adjust -hems on either side. Be sure -seams are spread open. Press and -pin. Turn top hem to underside. -Pin and press. Turn and miter side -<span class="pb" id="Page_21">21</span> -hem. Cut out top hem even with -stiffening and within 1″ of the top. -Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower -edge ½″. Side hem and mitered -corner above the lining should be -slip-stitched by hand; then slip-stitch -lining to top hem. Press. -Allow draperies to hang for 2 or 3 -days before putting in lower hems. -Then adjust length of drapery so -that it clears the rug or floor. Turn -edge under ½″; then turn hem -width. If an allowance is made for -a double hem, first turn to underside -one-half the width allowed, -then turn again the same width, -enclosing first turn. Slip-stitch hem -by hand or stitch by machine. The -lining hem overlaps the drapery -hem approximately 1″. Allowance -is made for a 2″ hem with ½″ for -seam. The lining hem hangs free -of the curtain and is held in position -with french tacks spaced about -12″ apart. To french tack, take 3 -or 4 stitches first at top of drapery -hem, then lining hem, then drapery -hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length -between. Blanket stitch over the full -length of these strands of thread. -Fasten thread at end of tack. Draperies -should be anchored at top -of return and lower side hems.</p> -<p>Use a <i>sew-on</i> or <i>pin-on</i> weight at -bottom of center hems.</p> -<p>(See illustration at top of <a href="#Page_22">page 22</a>.)</p> -<div class="img" id="fig24"> -<img src="images/p11f.jpg" alt="" width="470" height="475" /> -<p class="pcap">Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>LINING TURNED BACK</dt></dl> -<div class="img" id="fig25"> -<img src="images/p11g.jpg" alt="" width="465" height="394" /> -<p class="pcap">Lining slip-stitched to top hem.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>LINING</dt></dl> -<div class="img" id="fig26"> -<img src="images/p11h.jpg" alt="" width="473" height="395" /> -<p class="pcap">Making a French tack.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>LINING</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div> -<div class="img" id="fig27"> -<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="466" height="459" /> -<p class="pcap">‘Sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weights.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig28"> -<img src="images/p12d.jpg" alt="" width="459" height="433" /> -<p class="pcap">Lined drapery with pleater tape heading.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig29"> -<img src="images/p12e.jpg" alt="" width="459" height="440" /> -<p class="pcap">Side hems tacked to insure evenness.</p> -</div> -<p>When using a tape with woven-in -pockets for pleater pins, allow 2″ -above the rod for heading and -seam. See instructions under the -section <a class="htm" href="#unlined"><i>Unlined Draperies</i></a> for joining -tape to heading. Join lining; -then clip and press seams. Turn -drapery to right side and pin lining -to bottom of tape, overlapping ¼″. -Stitch and press; then finish side -hems above lining by hand.</p> -<p>It is a good idea to tack the side -hems along stitching line. This prevents -them from slipping and hems -always appear sharper. Using -matching thread and working from -the underside, insert needle through -the seam down through to the right -side, picking up a thread or two of -the fabric. Then bring needle back -up through the seam. Insert needle -at the same point and direct needle -along the seam between the hem a -distance of 1″. Bring needle up -through seam; then direct needle -down through seam at same point, -picking up two or three threads, -and then up through seam again. -Continue this tacking the length of -the hem.</p> -<h4>Drapery lined to top</h4> -<p>There are times that draperies are -lined to the top instead of using a -hem, particularly when a valance or -cornice board is used. To the length -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -measurement, add 1½″ at the top -for heading and seam. Cut lining in -proportion. Stitch lining and drapery -lengths together, bringing -edges even at the top. Clip seam and -press open. Cut stiffening the length -of drapery width. Pin and stitch -stiffening across the top, taking ½″ -seam. Turn drapery right side out, -enclosing heading. Press top and -side hems. Finish hems at the bottom -the same as for lined draperies.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig30"> -<img src="images/p12f.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="281" /> -<p class="pcap">Joining stiffening to lining and drapery at top.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig31"> -<img src="images/p12g.jpg" alt="" width="350" height="400" /> -<p class="pcap">Drapery turned to right side.</p> -</div> -<h4>Interlined Draperies</h4> -<p>Draperies are often interlined, particularly -in very formal rooms, or -when the character of the material -is such that the extra weight is necessary -for its protection. Interlining -also adds to the draping quality -and elegance of the fabric.</p> -<p>For an interlining fabric, use good -quality cotton flannel. Cut interlining -the exact measurements of draperies -when finished; that is, if draperies -have 1½″ hems on each side -and 3″ hems, top and bottom, then -cut interlining 3″ narrower and 6″ -shorter than drapery fabric. Spread -material right side down.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig32"> -<img src="images/p12h.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="417" /> -<p class="pcap">Tack interlining to drapery at center -and between center and side hems.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>3″</dt> -<dt>TACK DOWN THROUGH CENTER</dt> -<dt>INTERLINING FOLDED LENGTHWISE FOR TACKING</dt> -<dt>1½″</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div> -<div class="img" id="fig33"> -<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="278" /> -<p class="pcap">Turn and baste hems—side, -top, and bottom.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL</dt> -<dt>INTERLINING</dt></dl> -<p>Fold interlining through lengthwise -center. Place fold on exact center of -drapery fabric and tack together -loosely. Take a stitch in the drapery; -bring needle up through fold -of interlining and leave a loop. -Space about 6″; take a stitch in -drapery, then interlining, then drapery, -etc. Do not pull thread taut. -When row is finished, fold interlining -halfway between center and -edge on both sides and tack in the -same manner, making three rows of -vertical tacking.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig34"> -<img src="images/p13d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="278" /> -<p class="pcap">Catch-stitch hems -to interlining.</p> -</div> -<p>Turn side hems back over interlining. -Pin and baste. Then turn top -and bottom hems. Pin and baste. -Miter hems at corners. All hems -may be catch-stitched to the interlining, -and the lining slip-stitched -to top and side hems. Linings may -also be joined by machine. Turn -hem and baste; then pin lining to -drapery and stitch, taking ½″ -seam. Press seam as stitched. Then -clip and press seam open the same -as for all lined curtains and draperies.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div> -<div class="img" id="fig35"> -<img src="images/p13f.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="300" /> -<p class="pcap">Turn sides and top of -lining under ½″. Pin -in place, slip-stitch.</p> -</div> -<p>When lining is joined to drapery by -machine, tack interlining and lining -together along seam. Take stitch -in seam, then in interlining. Space -stitching 3″ or 4″ apart. Do not -draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom -hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining -to hem across the top and slip-stitch. -Turn hem in lining and stitch. -Allowance should be made for a 2″ -hem, overlapping the hem in drapery -approximately 1″. Use french -tacks between lining hem and drapery -to hold lining in place. Use -either ‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at -bottom of side hems.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig36"> -<img src="images/p13g.jpg" alt="" width="294" height="500" /> -<p class="pcap">When lining is machine stitched to -drapery, tack seam to interlining.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig37"> -<img src="images/p13h.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="296" /> -<p class="pcap">French tacks hold drapery and lining together.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div> -<h2 id="c6"><span class="small"><i>Measuring for Pleats</i></span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="600" height="201" /> -</div> -<p>The use of pleats is one of the most -effective ways of controlling the -fullness of a drapery that is made -to hang in balanced, graceful folds. -The types most generally used are -the pinch pleat, the French pleat, -the box pleat and the cartridge -pleat.</p> -<p>Pleats should be made in groups of -uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many -as are required to take up the -amount allowed for fullness. For -very sheer fabrics, the allowance -for fullness should be 3 times the -width of the window or space to be -covered. To figure the spacings and -amount to be taken up in pleats, -take the measurement of the space -to be covered plus the return; that -is, the distance from turn of rod to -the wall or the bracket supporting -the rod on either end, plus the -overlap at the center when curtains -are drawn together. The width allowed -for draperies minus these -three measurements is to be taken -up in pleats.</p> -<p>The fullness of each type of pleat -and space between depends on the -weight of the material and amount -allowed for fullness of the curtain.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>For Example</i></span>: If one half of the -width to be covered is 49″ then one -section of the drapery would be -about 144″ wide after finishing side -hems. To width of window area -(49″), add 3″ for return and 1″ -for center overlap. This totals 53″. -144″ minus 53″ equals 91″ for -pleats. Allowing 7″ for each pleat, -13 pleats will be required to take -up the fullness.</p> -<p>Please Note—3″ for return is used -as an example. The return can be -4″ or 5″, depending on type of rod -or bracket. Always measure the return.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<h4>Steps to Pleats</h4> -<p>Always measure and mark the exact -position and width for all pleats -and spacings before stitching.</p> -<p>Measure the width of the return -from outer edge. Then measure for -the first pleat at the curve of the -rod. Place second pleat on opposite -side 2″ from center edge. The third -pleat is placed at the exact center -between the first and second pleat. -The remaining number of pleats required -is evenly spaced between -the 1st and 3rd and between the -2nd and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, -bring markings for pleats together. -Pin; then stitch from top to ¾″ -below the heading, reversing the -stitch at either end.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig38"> -<img src="images/p14g.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="179" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">1.</span></span> Bring the markings together -for pleat and pin.</p> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">2.</span></span> Stitch from top to about ¾″ below -heading, reversing stitch at each end.</p> -<p class="pcap">These steps are the same for all types of pleats.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig39"> -<img src="images/p14h.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="484" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="j"><span class="ss"><i>Pinch Pleat</i></span>—Divide the large pleat -evenly into three smaller pleats; press -in firmly and stitch across the three -folds at lower edge of heading. The -Pinch pleat is a favorite finish for -most types of draperies and is particularly -good when draperies are -made of a heavier fabric.</span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div> -<div class="img" id="fig40"> -<img src="images/p15.jpg" alt="" width="531" height="406" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="j"><span class="ss"><i>French Pleat</i></span>—At lower edge of heading, -divide large pleat into three -smaller pleats and run needle and -thread through three pleats several -times, drawing thread tight. Then -fasten thread securely underneath.</span></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig41"> -<img src="images/p15a.jpg" alt="" width="381" height="392" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="j"><span class="ss"><i>Box Pleat</i></span>—The large pleat is spread -an equal distance on each side of -stitching and pressed flat. Box pleats -should be about 2″ wide, taking up -4″ fullness.</span></p> -<p class="pcap"><span class="j">When figuring these pleats, try for -uniformity; that is, the space between -each pleat (from fold to fold) should -be the same as the width of pleat. -Box pleats should be about 2″ wide, -taking up 4″ fullness.</span></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig42"> -<img src="images/p15d.jpg" alt="" width="381" height="385" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="j"><span class="ss"><i>Cartridge Pleat</i></span>—This is a round -pleat left loose and filled with cotton, -Kapok or a roll of stiff paper. The -pleats take up 2″ to 2½″ and are -spaced from 2″ to 3″ apart for draw -type draperies.</span></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig43"> -<img src="images/p15e.jpg" alt="" width="341" height="310" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">1.</span></span> Type of pins used if curtain -is hung from traverse rod.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig44"> -<img src="images/p15f.jpg" alt="" width="333" height="432" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">2.</span></span> Type of pins used if curtain is -hung from rod with rings or from -traverse rod mounted against ceiling.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<h4>Doors or Windows Opening Out</h4> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p15g.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="403" height="600" /> -</div> -<p>Box Pleats, extending above the -heading to form a loop, make an -interesting treatment for unlined -curtains draping a French window -or door that opens out.</p> -<p>Draperies hang from a rod drawn -through the loops. Fabrics, such -as Fortisan blends, antique satin, -taffetas and sheer linens are suitable -for these curtains.</p> -<p>Measure from top of rod to floor -for length. Add 9½″ at top for -seam, loops, and facing and 6″ for -a 3″ double bottom hem. Allow 3 -times the width of space to be covered -for fullness.</p> -<p><span class="ss"><i>Example</i></span>: If space to be covered is -52″, 3 lengths of 48″ fabric are -required. Cut one length through -center and join each half width to -each one of the full widths. Each -section measures approximately -70″. 70″ minus 4″ for 1″ double -hems and 3″ for return equals 63″. -7 pleats × 5″ = 35″. 63″ minus -35″ = 28″ for space to be covered -and center overlap.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig45"> -<img src="images/p15h.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="201" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">1.</span></span> Measuring for pleats, spacings and loops. Pleats may be wider or as narrow as desired. -Spacings may vary, depending on weight of material. Always consider the pleat overlap.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div> -<div class="img" id="fig46"> -<img src="images/p16.jpg" alt="" width="522" height="388" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">2.</span></span> Turn top to right side 9½″. Use a stiffening or -stay of lawn or organdy for most light and medium -weight materials. Arrows indicate stitching lines.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig47"> -<img src="images/p16a.jpg" alt="" width="633" height="345" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">3.</span></span> Material is cut out between loops. Seams are slashed diagonally at corners -to line of stitching. Press. If stiffening is not used as shown in sketches 1 and 2, -stitch 4″ strip of crinoline to hem as shown above. This lends support to pleats.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div> -<div class="img" id="fig48"> -<img src="images/p16b.jpg" alt="" width="578" height="370" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">4.</span></span> Turn loops right side out and hem to underside. Press. Pin -in pleat, stitch same as for Box pleat. Spread pleat, press.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig49"> -<img src="images/p16c.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="386" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="larger"><span class="ss">5.</span></span> Fasten loops to back of pleat by hand. Anchor -curtains at side, top and bottom as shown <a href="#Page_15">page 15</a>.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div> -<div class="img" id="fig50"> -<img src="images/p17.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="426" /> -<p class="pcap">Pattern for tie-back pinned to material.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig51"> -<img src="images/p17a.jpg" alt="" width="508" height="279" /> -<p class="pcap">Tie-back stitched—Seam blended -ready for turning.</p> -</div> -<h4>Tie-Backs</h4> -<p>Fabric tie-backs for draperies are -usually tailored, straight or shaped -bands which match or harmonize -with the drapery in color and design. -The fullness of the drapery determines -the length of the tie-back. To -estimate length, loop a strip of material -around the drapery, drawing -it back to side of window for the -best effect. Lengths may vary from -18″ to 24″ and can be 2½″ or more -in width. They are usually lined or -faced and interlined. Use a stiffening -of heavy muslin or crinoline in -a shaped band. For shaped band, -cut a paper pattern about 3″ or 4″ -wide in the center, tapering to 2″ -or 2½″ at the end as illustrated. -Cut fabric, lining and stiffening the -same as pattern, allowing for a ⅜″ -seam on all edges.</p> -<p>Pin stiffening to underside of band, -and lining to right side of material—right -sides together. Stitch, leaving -an opening of 3″ or 4″ for -turning.</p> -<p>Trim stiffening to stitching line and -blend edge of lining. Press. Turn -band right side out and press. Slip-stitch -lining to band at opening.</p> -<p>Sew small bone rings or very narrow -fabric loops at ends of band. -These loop over a hook fastened to -side of window.</p> -<h4>Anchoring Draperies</h4> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p17b.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="362" height="424" /> -</div> -<p>Outside edges of draperies should -hang against the wall in a straight -taut line. Sew a plastic ring to the -bottom hem. Place a cup hook in -the wall or the baseboard in line -with the hem.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<h2 id="c7"><span class="small"><span class="ss"><i>Meet the sewing machine with tomorrow written all over it.</i></span></span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p17f.jpg" alt="uncaptioned" width="500" height="548" /> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt><i>Does all 3 kinds of sewing—straight, zig-zag and chainstitch.</i></dt> -<dt><i>Hundreds of zig-zag patterns built-in—just touch a button and sew.</i></dt> -<dt><i>Spinning reel thread system—for smooth, even thread flow.</i></dt> -<dt><i>New speed switch—set your own sewing speed, fast or slow.</i></dt> -<dt><i>New built-in needle threader—ends that last little sewing worry.</i></dt> -<dt><i>Push-Button Bobbin—winds right <span class="u">in</span> the machine.</i></dt> -<dt><i>Exclusive Slant Needle—see better, sew smoother.</i></dt> -<dt><i>New 4-position throat plate lever—an extra for delicate fabrics.</i></dt> -<dt><i>New buttonholer device—makes 7 kinds of buttonholes easily.</i></dt></dl> -<p><i>New Golden <span class="u">Touch & Sew</span></i><a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> <i>sewing machine by Singer.</i> Be the girl with -the golden touch on this newest and most fabulous of our growing family -of <i>Touch & Sew</i> sewing machines with the Push-Button Bobbin. One of -five new models starting at $149.95.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p17g.jpg" alt="™ SINGER" width="300" height="95" /> -</div> -<p class="center smaller">See <span class="ss"><span class="smaller">SINGER COMPANY</span></span> in phone book for Shop nearest you.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div> -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="ss">SINGER SEWING LIBRARY<br />You’re sure to want a complete set</span></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/singer.jpg" alt="SINGER Sewing Library" width="251" height="300" /> -</div> -<p>Here are the newest, most informative, “how to” -sewing books available today! Together they make -up a complete dressmaking—home decorations -library. Fully illustrated, each one covers its subject -step-by-step, answering all your questions—in -as few words as possible—almost before you ask -them. Choose your needs from the selection of -books listed below.</p> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>101—HOW TO MAKE CURTAINS</dt> -<dt>102—HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES</dt> -<dt>103—HOW TO MAKE VALANCES</dt> -<dt>104—HOW TO MAKE BEDSPREADS</dt> -<dt>105—HOW TO LAY OUT A PATTERN AND CUT</dt> -<dt>106—HOW TO MEASURE, ALTER AND FIT</dt> -<dt>107—HOW TO MAKE SEAMS AND FINISHES</dt> -<dt>108—HOW TO MAKE SLEEVES</dt> -<dt>109—HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES AND POCKETS</dt> -<dt>110—HOW TO MAKE COLLARS, FINISH NECKLINES</dt> -<dt>111—HOW TO MAKE ZIPPER CLOSURES</dt> -<dt>112—HOW TO MAKE BELTS AND HEMS</dt> -<dt>113—HOW TO MAKE SLIP COVERS</dt> -<dt>114—HOW TO MAKE CAFE CURTAINS</dt> -<dt>115—THINGS FOR LITTLE GIRLS TO SEW</dt> -<dt>116—CREATING CHARM WHEN SEWING FOR GIRLS</dt> -<dt>117—HOW TO REINFORCE, REPAIR AND REFIT</dt> -<dt>118—HOW TO DO DRESSMAKER TAILORING</dt> -<dt>119—HOW TO MAKE APRONS</dt> -<dt>120—HOW TO MAKE CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, AND BOLSTERS</dt> -<dt>121—HOW TO SEW FOR BABIES</dt></dl> -<p>Singer Sewing library Books are available at Singer Centers, variety, -chain and department stores ... where you will also find the -SINGER SEWING SHELF—for sewing machine parts and supplies.</p> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY -</div> -</div> -<p class="jr1"><i><a class="htm" href="#cover">Cover Photograph</a> reprinted from the BRIDE’S MAGAZINE -<br />Copyright 1957, The Condé Nast Publications, Inc.</i></p> -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="ss">Printed in the United States of America</span> <span class="hst"><span class="ssn">Book No. 102</span></span></p> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li> -<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in <i>italics</i> is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -</ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES *** - -***** This file should be named 63282-h.htm or 63282-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/2/8/63282/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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