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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps
-and Their Operation (1930), by F. C. Bishopp
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps and Their Operation (1930)
-
-Author: F. C. Bishopp
-
-Release Date: September 18, 2020 [EBook #63227]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN NO. ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Tom Cosmas from files generously made available
-by USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant
-materials are placed in the Public Domain.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber Note
-
-Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold=. Whole and fractional parts
-of numbers as 123-4/5.
-
-
-                     U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
-                        FARMERS' BULLETIN No. 734
-
-                       FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION
-
-
-[DC] BOTH THE HOUSE FLY AND BLOWFLIES may be captured in traps. The
-character of the bait used and the location of the traps greatly influence
-the kind of flies caught. This bulletin tells how to make the flytraps
-that have been found most effective, where to put them, and how to bait
-and care for them.
-
-Flytrapping, of course, affords only partial relief. The logical method
-of fly control is to prevent the multiplication of these pests by proper
-disposal of or treatment of their breeding places. The reader is therefore
-referred to Farmers' Bulletin 1408 for further information on house-fly
-control, to Farmers' Bulletin 1097 for various methods of combating the
-stable fly, and to Farmers' Bulletin 857 for additional measures to be
-used against the screw-worm fly and certain other blowflies injurious to
-livestock.
-
-                                                  Issued June 10, 1916
-  Washington, D. C.                                Revised March, 1930
-
-                            ADDITIONAL COPIES
-                 OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE PROCURED FROM
-                     THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS
-                     U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
-                            WASHINGTON, D. C.
-                                    AT
-                             5 CENTS PER COPY
-
-
-
-
-                   =FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION=
-
-
-                       By F. C. Bishopp,
-                 _Principal Entomologist in Charge,
-                      Division of Insects Affecting
-                Man and Animals, Bureau of Entomology_
-
-
-
-
-=CONTENTS=
-
-
-                                                      Page
-
-  Uses and limitations of flytraps                       1
-
-  Kinds of flies caught                                  1
-
-  Types of traps                                         2
-
-  Trapping the screw-worm fly                           11
-
-  Baits for traps                                       11
-
-  Bait containers                                       13
-
-  Care and location of traps                            14
-
-  Sticky fly papers                                     14
-
-
-
-
-=USES AND LIMITATIONS OF FLYTRAPS=
-
-
-[DC] FLYTRAPS have a distinct place in the control of the house fly
-and other noxious fly species. There is a general tendency, however,
-for those engaged in combating flies to put too much dependence on the
-flytrap as a method of abating the nuisance. It should be borne in mind
-that flytrapping is only supplementary to other methods of control, most
-notable of which is the prevention of breeding either by completely
-disposing of breeding places or by treating the breeding material with
-chemicals.
-
-It may be said that there are two main ways in which flytraps are
-valuable: (1) By catching flies which come to clean premises from
-other places which are insanitary and (2) by capturing those flies
-which invariably escape in greater or less numbers the other means of
-destruction which may be practiced. Furthermore, the number of flies
-caught in traps serves as an index of the effectiveness of campaigns
-against breeding places.
-
-_Flytrapping should begin early in the spring if it is to be of greatest
-value._ Although comparatively few flies are caught in the early spring,
-their destruction means the prevention of the development of myriads of
-flies by midsummer.
-
-
-
-
-=KINDS OF FLIES CAUGHT=
-
-
-The various species of flies which are commonly annoying about habitations
-or where foodstuffs are being prepared may be divided roughly into two
-classes: (1) Those which breed in animal matter, consisting mainly of the
-so called blowflies, including the screw-worm fly;[1] and (2) those which
-breed in vegetable as well as in animal matter. In the latter group the
-house fly[2] is by far the most important. The stable fly is strictly a
-vegetable breeder, as are also certain other species which occasionally
-come into houses and in rare cases may contaminate foodstuffs. The stable
-fly,[3] which breeds in horse manure or decaying vegetable matter, and
-the horn fly,[4] which breeds in cow manure, are blood-sucking species,
-and can be caught in ordinary flytraps in comparatively small numbers
-only. The kind of flies caught depends to a considerable extent on the
-material used for bait. In general, the house fly and other species which
-breed in vegetable matter are attracted to vegetable substances, while the
-blowflies will come most readily to animal matter. This rule, of course,
-is not absolute, as flies are less restricted in feeding than in breeding
-habits, and, as is well known, the house fly is attracted to a greater or
-less extent to any moist material, especially if it has an odor.
-
-[1] _Cochliomyia macellaria_ Fab.
-
-[2] _Musca domestica_ L.
-
-[3] _Stomoxys calcitrans_ L.
-
-[4] _Haematobia irritans_ L.
-
-
-
-
-=TYPES OF TRAPS=
-
-
-The same general principle is involved in nearly all flytraps in use,
-though superficially they may appear quite different. The flies are
-attracted into a cage, as it were, by going through a passage the entrance
-of which is large and the exit small, so that there is little chance
-of the flies, once in, finding their way out again. This principle is
-modified to fit different conditions. For instance, the window trap,
-devised by C. F. Hodge, catches the flies as they endeavor to enter or
-leave a building; the garbage-can trap, for which Professor Hodge is also
-to be credited, catches the flies that have entered garbage cans; and the
-manure-box trap retains the flies bred from infested manure put into the
-box or pit.
-
-The attractant used to induce flies to enter traps may consist of (1)
-food, as in baited traps; (2) odors, as in window traps placed in windows
-from which odors are emitted; and (3) light, as in traps on manure boxes.
-Of course, light is an important factor in the success of all traps, for,
-as is well known, flies have a marked tendency to go toward the light, and
-they usually enter the trap by flying toward the light after having been
-attracted beneath it by bait or after entering a room in search of food.
-
-
-=CONICAL TRAPS=
-
-A number of traps of this general type are on the market, but most of
-these are of small size. Nearly all are constructed with a dome instead of
-a cone, and on this account the catching power is reduced about one-third.
-Moreover, the farmer, dairyman, or anyone with a few tools can construct
-traps at a small fraction of the sale price of ready-made ones.
-
-There are now being made by certain firms in the Southwest traps of the
-dimensions and with the desirable features discussed in the following
-pages. These traps are all metal and some are built so that they can be
-taken apart for shipment.
-
-
-=THE CONICAL HOOP TRAP=
-
-A trap which appears from extensive tests made by E. W. Laake and the
-writer to be best for effective trapping, durability, ease of construction
-and repair, and cheapness may be made as follows:
-
-The trap consists essentially of a screen cylinder with a frame made of
-barrel hoops, in the bottom of which is inserted a screen cone. The height
-or the cylinder is 24 inches, the diameter 18 inches, and the cone is 22
-inches high, and 18 inches in diameter at the base. Material necessary
-for this trap consists of four new or secondhand wooden barrel hoops, one
-barrel head, four laths, 10 feet of strips 1 to inches wide 1½ one-half
-inch thick (portions of old boxes will suffice), 61 linear inches of 12 or
-14 mesh galvanized screening 24 inches wide for the sides of the trap and
-41 inches of screening 26 inches wide for the cone and door, an ounce of
-carpet tacks, and two turn-buttons, which may be made of wood. The total
-cost of the material for this trap, if all is bought new at retail prices
-is about $1. In practically all cases, however, the barrel hoops, barrel
-head, lath, and strips can be obtained without expense. This would reduce
-the cost to that of the wire and tacks, which would be about 80 cents.
-If a larger number of traps are constructed at one time, the cost is
-considerably reduced.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Conical hoop flytrap, side view. A, hoops forming
-frame at bottom; B, hoops forming frame at top; C, top of trap made of
-barrel head; D, strips around door; E, door frame; F, screen on door; G,
-buttons holding door; H, screen on outside of trap; I, strips on side of
-trap between hoops; J, tips of these strips projecting to form legs; K,
-cone; L, united edges of screen forming cone; M, aperture at apex of cone]
-
-One of these traps is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. In constructing the
-trap two of the hoops are bent in a circle (18 inches in diameter on the
-inside), and nailed together, the ends being trimmed to give a close fit.
-These form the bottom of the frame (A), and the other two, prepared in a
-similar way, the top (B). The top (C) of the trap is made of an ordinary
-barrel head with the bevel edge sawed off sufficiently to cause the head
-to fit closely in the hoops and allow secure nailing. A square, 10 inches
-on the side, is cut out of the center of the top to form a door. The
-portions of the top (barrel head) are held together by inch strips (D)
-placed around the opening one-half inch from the edge to form a jamb for
-the door. The door consists of a narrow frame (E) covered with screen (F)
-well fitted to the trap and held in place (not hinged) by buttons (G).
-The top is then nailed in the upper hoops and the sides (H) formed by
-closely tacking screen wire on the outside of the hoops. Four laths (I)
-(or light strips) are nailed to the hoops on the outside of the trap to
-act as supports between the hoops, and the ends are allowed to project 1
-inch at the bottom to form legs (J). The legs are made to project inches
-when the traps are to be used with bait pans 4 inches deep in trapping
-screw-worm flies. The cone (K) is cut from the screen and either sewed
-with fine wire or soldered where the edges meet at (L), or a narrow lath
-may be nailed along these edges. The apex of the cone is then cut off to
-give an aperture (M) 1 inch in diameter. It is then inserted in the trap
-and closely tacked to the hoop around the base.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Conical hoop flytrap, top view. Letters designate
-parts as in Figure 1]
-
-The construction of a cone of any given height or diameter is quite simple
-if the following method be observed. It is best to cut a pattern from a
-large piece of heavy paper, cardboard, or tin. Figure 3 illustrates the
-method of laying out a cone of the proper dimensions for the above trap.
-An ordinary square is placed on the material from which the pattern is to
-be cut; a distance (22 inches) equal to the height of the cone is laid off
-on one leg of the square at A, and a distance (9 inches) equal to one-half
-of the diameter of the base of the cone is laid off on the other leg at B,
-and a line is drawn between the points A and B. With the distance between
-these points as a radius and with the point A as a center, the portion of
-a circle, CD, is drawn. With a pair of dividers, the legs of which are set
-1 inch apart, or with the square, lay off as many inches on the arc CD,
-starting at C, as there are inches around the base of the cone, which in
-this case is about 56½ inches, reaching nearly to the point E. Then add
-one-half inch for the lapping of the edges of the cone, and one-half inch
-which is taken up when the cone is tacked in, thus making a total distance
-from C to E of 57½ inches. Draw a line from A to C and another from A to
-E, and cut out the pattern on these lines and on the arc from C to E, as
-shown in Figure 3. The edges AC and AE are then brought together, lapped
-one-half inch, and sewed with wire or soldered. After the aperture of the
-cone is formed by cutting off the apex, as previously described, it is
-ready for insertion in the trap.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Method of laying out a pattern for the
-construction of a cone. Cut out on curved line from C to E and on dotted
-lines from A to C and A to B]
-
-In order to figure the distance around the base of a cone of any given
-diameter, multiply the diameter by 3.1416 or 3-1/7.
-
-The height of the legs of the trap, the height of the cone, and the size
-of the aperture in the top of the cone, each is of importance in securing
-the greatest efficiency.
-
-
-=OTHER FORMS OF CONICAL TRAPS=
-
-A modification of the previously described trap has been made by D. C.
-Parman of the Bureau of Entomology. The principal point of advantage in
-this type is that it can be made more quickly and with fewer tools. The
-principles and dimensions are the same, the most striking difference being
-the absence of a wooden top. A single hoop with the thick edge down forms
-the upper frame of the cylinder and the entire top is made of screen. A
-circular piece of screen with a diameter about 3 inches greater than the
-diameter of the cylinder is cut; a hoop with a diameter equal to the
-inside of the top of the trap is then made of heavy wire and laid upon the
-disk of screen and the edges of the screen bent in over it. By folding in
-and crimping the edges of the wire over the wire hoop it will remain in
-position without difficulty and the edges of the screen disk are used to
-lift the top of the trap out for emptying flies. It is important to have
-the screen top fit the inside of the cylinder very snugly at all points.
-If there is any space left where flies can escape it is a good plan to
-bind the edge of the top with a strip of burlap. This not only helps
-to close the openings but keeps the hoop in place and aids in removing
-the top. Another difference is that the screen forming the sides of the
-cylinder is placed on the inside of the hoops and legs, the frame being
-built first and then the cylinder formed by tacking the wire on the inside
-of the hoops and nailing in along the upright strips and against the wire
-short pieces of laths with their upper ends against the lower edge of the
-hoop forming the top of the trap and extending downward along the legs
-about two-thirds of their length. These strips hold the wire in place and
-give rigidity to the trap, and they are thick enough to project beyond the
-inner surface of the hoop and form a support upon which the edges of the
-screen top rest.
-
-Conical traps with galvanized-iron frames are satisfactory, but they
-are less easily rescreened. These, of course, can be constructed only
-by shops with considerable equipment. Traps constructed with a wooden
-disk about the base of the cone, and a similar disk around the top to
-serve as a frame, or those with a square wooden frame at the bottom and
-top, with strips up the corners, are fairly satisfactory. It should be
-borne in mind, however, that the factor which determines the number of
-flies caught is the diameter of the base of the cone, if other things are
-equal. Therefore, the space taken up by the wooden framework is largely
-wasted, and if it is too wide it will have a deterrent effect on the flies
-which come toward the bait. For this reason it is advisable that the
-wood around the base of the cone should be as narrow as consistent with
-strength--usually about 3 inches.
-
-Under no condition should the sides or top of the trap be of solid
-material, as the elimination of light from the top or sides has been found
-to decrease the catch from 50 to 75 per cent.
-
-
-=ALL-METAL FLYTRAP=
-
-Where large numbers of traps are to be constructed, and especially if
-they are to be used for trapping screw-worm flies on the range, it is
-desirable to make them with metal rather than wooden frames. Traps with
-galvanized-iron frames are now being used extensively on ranches in
-central and western Texas in combating the screw-worm fly. Mechanics
-may wish to vary details of construction from those given in the
-specifications, but the dimensions and general features of the trap should
-not be altered. The cost of the metal-framed traps varies from about $3.50
-to $5 each according to the number ordered, the workmanship, and the kind
-of materials used. For the guidance of those who desire such traps the
-following directions, together with a working drawing (fig. 4), are given:
-
-
-=SPECIFICATIONS=
-
-  _Dimensions_--As per working drawing.
-
-  _Wire_--14-mesh galvanized or preferably copper screen wire.
-
-  _Cylinder_--Wire gauze, to be soldered completely around inside of
-  top ring and at intervals of 2 inches or less in groove of bottom
-  ring. Vertical seam to be soldered entire and placed behind one leg.
-  Where shipment of traps is not contemplated the diameter of the top
-  of the cylinder may be the same as that of the bottom.
-
-  _Top_--Wire gauze to be soldered completely around periphery on
-  inside of top ring.
-
-  _Cone_--Wire gauze to be soldered completely around inside of cone
-  ring and vertically along seam. A 1-inch inlet hole shall be formed
-  at apex of cone.
-
-  _Frame_--To be made of 24-gauge galvanized iron. This includes top
-  and bottom rings and legs.
-
-  _Legs_--Galvanized-iron channels made as per detailed drawing and
-  secured to top and bottom rings with four rivets, 1/8 inch in
-  diameter, to each leg. First turned and drilled as per drawing.
-
-  _Bottom cylinder ring_--=J= shaped, with bottom edge of cylinder
-  dropped into J--crimped and soldered to secure. Ends of ring riveted
-  to secure.
-
-  _Cone ring_--Galvanized-iron band with 3/16-inch round iron wire
-  rolled into lower edge, as per cross-section drawing of "cone ring."
-
-  _Wing nuts_--Four copper wing bolts and nuts, as per drawing, to hold
-  cone securely in place.
-
-
-=MANURE-BOX TRAPS=
-
-Manure pits or boxes are desirable for the temporary storage of manure,
-especially in towns and cities. These have been widely advocated, but the
-difficulty has been that manure often becomes infested before it is put
-into them, and flies frequently breed out before the boxes are emptied and
-often escape through the cracks. To obviate these difficulties a manure
-box or pit, with a modified tent trap or cone trap attached, is desirable.
-Arthur Swaim, of Florida, has devised a form of manure trap consisting of
-a series of screen tents with exit holes along the ridges of these, over
-which is a screen box. The latter retains the flies as they pass through
-the holes in the tents. The entire trap is removable.
-
-In order to retain the fertilizing value of manure to the greatest extent,
-it is advisable to exclude the air from it as much as possible and to
-protect it from the leaching action of rains. This being the case, there
-is really no necessity to cover a large portion of the top of the box
-with a trap, but merely to have holes large enough to attract flies to
-the light and cover these holes with ordinary conical traps with the legs
-cut off so the bottom of the trap will fit closely to the box. The same
-arrangement can be made where manure is kept in a pit. In large bins two
-or more holes covered with traps should be provided for the escape of the
-flies.
-
-Manure boxes should be used by all stock owners in towns and cities, and
-they are also adaptable to farms. The size of the manure bin should be
-governed by the individual needs, but for use on the farm it is desirable
-to make it large enough to hold all of the manure produced during the
-busiest season of the year. A box 14 feet long, 10 feet wide, and 4 feet
-deep will hold the manure produced by two horses during about five months.
-About 2 cubic feet of box space should be allowed for each horse per day.
-The bin should be made of concrete or heavy plank. When the latter is used
-the cracks should be battened to prevent the escape of flies. The bin
-should have a concrete floor or it may be set in the ground several inches
-and the dirt closely banked around the outside. For the admission of the
-manure a good-sized door should be provided in either end of a large bin.
-A portion of the top should be made easily removable for convenience in
-emptying the box, or one entire end of the box may be hinged. On account
-of the danger of the door being left open through carelessness it is
-advisable to arrange a lift door which can be opened by placing the foot
-on a treadle as the manure is shoveled in. The door should be heavy enough
-to close automatically when the treadle is released.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Working drawings of all-metal flytrap. The cones
-are removable and traps and cones can be telescoped for shipment. The trap
-may be made 18 inches in diameter at the top as well as at the bottom if
-traps are not to be shipped]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Use of flytrap in connection with manure bin. A,
-block of wood set in ground to which lever raising door is hinged]
-
-A concrete pit set on a slope so that the manure may be dumped in from a
-wheelbarrow is convenient for dairy farms. For large stock farms it may be
-desirable to have a concrete pit so constructed as to permit of the manure
-being taken directly into it with a litter carrier and doors provided
-which are large enough to admit a wagon or manure spreader for the removal
-of the material.
-
-A manure bin with flytrap attached is shown in Figure 5.
-
-Attention is directed to a maggot trap devised by R. H. Hutchison, as
-described in Farmers' Bulletin 851 of the Department of Agriculture. Where
-large quantities of manure are produced on a farm, this method of storing
-the manure on a platform and trapping the maggots which breed out may be
-more convenient than the manure bin.
-
-
-=WINDOW TRAPS=
-
-C. F. Hodge has designed a trap which is really a modified tent trap
-adapted to use in a window. This trap is constructed so as to catch the
-flies as they enter or leave through the window. It is adaptable to
-barns which are fairly free from cracks or other places where flies may
-enter. It may also be used on windows of buildings where foodstuffs are
-prepared and where flies endeavor to enter through the windows or escape
-after having gained entrance through other passageways. All openings not
-provided with traps should be closely screened, and on large buildings
-traps may be installed in every third window.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Hodge type window trap. At left, trap with end
-removed to show construction; at right, cross section of trap placed in a
-window. A, end of trap; B, upper side of folds in screen; C, lower side of
-folds in screen; D, portion of end of trap sawed out and returned after
-attaching screen; E, holes along apex of folds; F, door for removing dead
-flies; G, window sill; H, upper window sash; I, inside entrance for flies;
-O, outside entrances]
-
-This trap is essentially a screen box closely fitted to the frame of a
-window. (See fig. 6.) The thickness of the box at A should be about 12
-inches. Instead of the screen running straight down over the box on either
-side, it is folded inward nearly to the center of the frame in =V=-shaped
-folds running longitudinally across the window. One, two, or even more
-folds may be made in the screen on either side. The upper side of the fold
-B should extend toward the center almost at right angles with the side of
-the trap; that is, parallel with the top and bottom; and the lower side C
-should slant downward as shown in the drawing. The sides of the frame may
-be cut out at the proper angle and the pieces D returned after the screen
-has been tacked along the edges. Along the apex (inner edge) of each fold
-is punched a series of holes E about one-half inch in diameter and 1
-inch apart. The apices of the folds on either side of the window should
-not be directly opposite. A narrow door F opening downward on hinges
-should be made on one side of the trap at the bottom for removal of the
-dead flies. The entire trap is fastened to the window by hooks so that it
-may be readily taken off. An additional trapping feature may be added by
-providing a tent trap fitted in the bottom of the box. A narrow slit is
-left along the base to allow the flies to enter beneath the tent. Bait may
-be placed under the tent to attract the flies.
-
-It has been found that the use of these window traps will aid in
-protecting animals in barns from stable flies and mosquitoes, and in
-some cases horseflies and other noxious species are caught. They tend to
-exclude the light, however, and are somewhat cumbersome, especially in
-thin-walled buildings.
-
-
-
-
-=TRAPPING THE SCREW-WORM FLY=[5]
-
-[5] _Cochliomyia macellaria_ Fab.
-
-
-Recent efforts to reduce the loss to the livestock industry of the
-Southwest resulting from the ravages of the screw-worm have directed
-attention to the employment of flytraps in this work.
-
-Mention has been made of the importance of preventing the breeding of
-flies as a prerequisite to effective control. This is equally true of the
-screw-worm and other blowflies, which attack animals, and of the house
-fly. In the case of these blowflies main dependence must be placed on the
-complete and prompt burning of all carcasses and animal refuse.
-
-Experiments conducted in the range sections of Texas indicate that traps
-properly baited and set are of material aid in preventing screw-worm
-injury to livestock. If general trapping is undertaken, at least three
-or four traps should be maintained on each section of land. These should
-be located preferably near watering places and where cattle congregate,
-especially in the so-called hospital pastures or traps, where the
-screw-worm-infested animals are kept for treatment.
-
-The conical-type traps as described are advised. The traps should be set
-in broken shade on a board platform about 2 feet square, securely fastened
-to a tree or on a post where the trap and bait will be the least disturbed
-by stock or wild animals.
-
-During the latter half of one season over 100 gallons of flies, the vast
-majority of which were screw-worm flies, were captured in about 25 traps
-operated on a ranch in west Texas.
-
-The question of the baits best adapted for this species and other points
-in regard to the operation of the traps are briefly discussed under
-subsequent headings.
-
-
-
-
-=BAITS FOR TRAPS=
-
-
-The problem of selecting the best bait for flies is an important one.
-In choosing a bait it should be remembered that it is largely the
-fermentation which renders the material attractive, and that baits are
-most attractive during their most active period of fermentation. As has
-been indicated, the kind of bait used should be governed by the species of
-flies the destruction of which is desired. This is most often the house
-fly.
-
-A mixture of 1 part of a cheap cane molasses (blackstrap or New Orleans)
-and 3 parts of water is one of the most economical and effective baits
-for the house fly. Sugar-beet or stock molasses, which is very cheap in
-regions where produced, when mixed in the foregoing proportions is fairly
-attractive. Sirup made by dissolving 1 part of ordinary brown sugar in 4
-parts of water and allowing the mixture to stand a day or two to induce
-fermentation is almost equal to molasses and water as a fly bait. If it is
-desired to use the sirup immediately after making it, a small quantity of
-vinegar should be added. Honeybees are sometimes caught in large numbers
-with this bait. When this happens some of the other baits recommended
-should be used.
-
-On dairy farms probably milk is next choice as a bait to cane-molasses
-solution, considering its convenience. The addition of ripe bananas or
-other fruit increases the attractiveness of the milk bait. The curd
-from milk, with one-half pound of brown sugar added for each pound, and
-water to make it thoroughly moist, is a very good bait and continues to
-be attractive for 10 days or longer if Kept moist. A mash consisting
-of one-half pound of bran, 1 quart of milk, 1 quart of water, 2
-tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and a yeast cake makes an attractive and
-lasting bait.
-
-The foregoing baits are rendered more attractive by stirring occasionally.
-
-
-=BLOWFLY BAITS FOR USE AROUND MARKETS, ETC.=
-
-With the baits before mentioned few blowflies will be caught. For use
-about slaughterhouses, butcher shops, and other places where blowflies
-are troublesome it has been determined that the mucous membranes which
-form the lining of the intestines of cattle or hogs are without equal as
-a bait. This material, which is commonly spoken of as "gut slime," can
-be obtained from packing houses where sausage casings are prepared. The
-offensive odor of this bait renders its use undesirable around habitations
-or materials intended for human consumption.
-
-At the front of and at loading docks of meat-packing establishments, where
-house flies are troublesome and blowflies are usually not abundant, it
-is best to bait the traps with one of the house-fly baits listed above.
-Around meat markets, where both house flies and blowflies abound, one of
-the combination baits given on page 13 should be employed.
-
-
-=BAITS FOR SCREW-WORMS AND BLOWFLIES UNDER RANGE CONDITIONS=
-
-Where rabbits or other wild animals are plentiful they make a very
-satisfactory bait for use on the ranges; in fact, they are rather better
-than any other available bait. The animal should be opened up so as to
-expose the intestines; and when the weather is very dry it is best to
-keep some water in the pan, as it adds to the attractiveness of the bait.
-Entrails and other animal refuse may be utilized in a similar way when
-they are available. In large trapping operations goats or sheep culled
-from the flock are cut up for bait, from 1 to 2 pounds of meat being used
-in each bait pan.
-
-The main objection to the use of these meat baits is that some maggots are
-likely to complete their growth and escape from the bait pans. This can be
-largely avoided by adding nicotine sulphate to the water in the bait pan
-in the proportion of one teaspoonful to each gallon of water. This does
-not check the decomposition enough to reduce the attractiveness of the
-bait and practically prohibits the escape of any maggots.
-
-As a substitute for wild animals or animal refuse when they are not
-available, experiments show that fairly satisfactory catches can be
-secured by utilizing dried "gut slime" or dried whole egg. The former
-is not generally on the market but can be prepared by packing houses at
-a moderate cost. Both of these materials are easily carried on a saddle
-horse, and all that is necessary is to place about one-fourth pound in
-the bait pan and add 1 gallon of water, after which the mixture should be
-stirred. The more frequently any of these baits is agitated, the greater
-the catch which will be secured. If the bait is kept well moistened it
-will continue attractive for 10 days or longer. These baits should be
-kept alkaline by the addition, once or twice a week, of a teaspoonful of
-washing or baking soda.
-
-
-=COMBINATION BAITS=
-
-With a number of the baits before mentioned both house flies and blowflies
-are captured. This is especially true with the "gut slime" and dried egg.
-Where both of these kinds of flies are abundant such baits are desirable.
-Certain other mixtures may also be utilized. A packing-house product known
-as blood tankage is a good fly bait when used before drying and with
-molasses and water. Fish scraps or meat scraps, especially with molasses
-and water added, will attract all kinds of flies. Overripe or fermenting
-fruit such as watermelon rinds or crushed bananas often gives very
-satisfactory results. A combination of overripe bananas with milk is much
-more attractive than either one used separately.
-
-
-
-
-=BAIT CONTAINERS=
-
-
-The size of the bait container in relation to the size of the trap is
-a very important consideration. It has been found that a small pan or
-a deep pan of bait set in the center under a trap will catch only a
-small fraction of the number of flies secured by using larger shallow
-containers. The best and most convenient pan for baits is a shallow
-circular tin, such as the cover of a lard bucket. Under range conditions
-it is advisable to use a more substantial bait pan and preferably one
-4 inches deep, so that a greater quantity of bait may be used, thus
-preventing complete drying out between visits to the trap. Its diameter
-should be about 4 inches less than that of the base of the trap, thus
-bringing the edge within 2 inches of the outside edge of the trap. For
-liquid baits the catch can be increased slightly by placing a piece of
-sponge or a few chips in the center of the bait pan to provide additional
-surface upon which the flies may alight.
-
-
-
-
-=CARE AND LOCATION OF TRAPS=
-
-
-In many cases flytrapping has been rendered ineffectual by the fact
-that the traps were not properly placed or cared for. In setting traps
-a location should be chosen where flies naturally congregate. This is
-usually on the sunny side of a building out of the wind. In hot weather,
-however, traps should be placed so as to be in shade during midday. It is
-exceedingly important that the bait containers be kept well filled. This
-usually requires attention every other day. The bait pans should be washed
-out at rather frequent intervals. This gives a larger catch and avoids the
-danger of flies breeding in the material used for bait. Further, it should
-be borne in mind that traps can not be operated successfully throughout
-the season without emptying them. Where flies are abundant and the bait
-pans are properly attended to the traps should be emptied at weekly
-intervals. Where flies become piled high against the side of the cone, the
-catching power of the trap is considerably reduced. The destruction of the
-flies is best accomplished by immersing the trap in hot water or, still
-better, where a tight barrel is at hand place a few live coals in a pan
-on the ground, scatter two tablespoonfuls of sulphur over them, place the
-trap over the coals, and turn the barrel over the trap. All of the flies
-will be rendered motionless in about five minutes. They may then be killed
-by using hot water, throwing them into a fire, or burying them. In the
-operation of flytraps in controlling the screw-worm it has not been found
-necessary, especially during hot weather, to kill the flies, as they die
-very rapidly within the traps. In order to empty a trap it may be inverted
-and the dead flies shaken down. As the living flies will naturally go
-upward, the door may then be removed and the dead flies shaken out, the
-door replaced, and the trap set upright without loss of many of the living
-flies. The location of traps used against the screw-worm fly is briefly
-discussed on page 11.
-
-
-
-
-=STICKY FLY PAPERS=
-
-
-Sticky fly papers are of some value in destroying flies which have
-gained access to houses, but they have marked limitations and numerous
-objectionable features. For use out of doors traps are much more effective
-and economical.
-
-Doctor Crumbine, of the Kansas State Board of Health, gives the following
-method for preparing fly paper:
-
-"Take 2 pounds of rosin and 1 pint of castor oil; heat together until it
-looks like molasses. Take an ordinary paintbrush and smear while hot on
-any kind of paper--an old newspaper is good--and place several about the
-room. A dozen of these may be made at a cost of 1 cent."
-
-
-
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-
-=Transcriber Note=
-
-Minor typos have been corrected. Illustrations were moved to prevent
-splitting paragraphs. Produced from files generously made available by
-USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant materials are placed in
-the Public Domain.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734:
-Flytraps and Their Operation (1930), by F. C. Bishopp
-
-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN NO. ***
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