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diff --git a/old/62932-0.txt b/old/62932-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 76f0138..0000000 --- a/old/62932-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1214 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mother's Knitter, by Elvina M. Corbould - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Mother's Knitter - Containing some patterns of things for little children - -Author: Elvina M. Corbould - -Release Date: August 15, 2020 [EBook #62932] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MOTHER'S KNITTER *** - - - - -Produced by Susan Skinner, Stephen Hutcheson, and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - MOTHER’S KNITTER. - - - BY - E. M. C. - - - CONTAINING SOME PATTERNS OF THINGS FOR LITTLE CHILDREN. - - - LONDON: - HATCHARDS, PICCADILLY. - 1882. - - LONDON - PRINTED BY STRANGEWAYS AND SONS, - Tower Street, Upper St. Martin’s Lane. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - GENERAL REMARKS 5 - TERMS USED IN KNITTING 6 - BABY’S BOOT: SMALL SIZE 22 - ” ” MEDIUM SIZE 25 - ” ” FULL SIZE 30 - CHILD’S JACKET OR SPENCER 7 - ” SOCK 19 - DAISY-STITCH SHAWL 33 - FROCK 10 - INDEX OF THINGS IN KNITTING-BOOKS 35 - OPEN-WORK PATTERN 18 - PETTICOAT 16 - SHAWL 34 - TAM O’SHANTER CAP 17 - - - - - GENERAL REMARKS. - - -Always cast off loosely, unless directed to the contrary. - -The size of wool and pins is important in trying a pattern. Wools -necessarily vary, both in quality and price; the best kinds to use for -babies’ boots are Merino, Andalusian, 2-thread Lady Betty, and Eider -yarn. Penelope wool is a trifle thicker, and is sold in 2-oz. skeins. -Small-sized things can be increased by using larger pins and coarser -wool: for instance, the smallest boot in this book can be made to fit a -much older baby by using Berlin fingering and bone pins, No. 13. - - - - - _Terms used in Knitting_, - - -_To increase_, or make.—With your right-hand pin knit through the lower -part of the next stitch as well as through the next stitch. _Or_, if at -the beginning of a row, knit the first stitch, then knit again through -it from the back. _Or_, put the wool before the needle, but this makes a -hole. _Or_, cast on another stitch, and then knit it. - - -_To decrease._—Knit 2 stitches at the same time so as to make 1 out of -the 2. _Or_, slip a stitch from the left pin to the right without -knitting it, knit the next stitch, then with your left pin pull the -slipped stitch over the knitted one. - - -_To pearl_, or purl, or seam.—Bring the wool in front of the knitting, -and insert the needle the reverse way through the stitch. Replace the -wool in its right place. - - -_To raise_, or pick up.—Put your right needle through the knitting, put -the wool round the needle, and draw the wool through the knitting. - - - - - MOTHER’S KNITTER. - - - THE STANDARD OF MEASUREMENT FOR THE KNITTING PINS IS CHAMBERS’ BELL - GAUGE. - - - - - _Child’s Jacket or Spencer._ - - -This fastens behind, and fits a child of about eight months’ old; it is -very elastic, and quite an easy pattern. - -You require 3 pins No. 8, and 2 ounces Berlin fingering. - -Cast on 133 stitches; rib, by knitting 1, pearling 1 all the way -through, taking care that the knitted of one row is the pearled of the -other row. Work for 32 rows, then work backwards and forwards on 34 -stitches only, for 19 rows. Then leave this wool and pin for a time, you -will go on with them presently. - -Go on with the middle; fasten the wool next to the piece you have just -done, and cast off three stitches, this goes under the arm; work upon -the next 59 for 18 rows, break off the wool. - -Knit off the stitches on the right-hand pin, the one you had left with -the wool attached, knit the centre 59 stitches, knitting in the end of -wool to fasten it off securely. Then leave these 93 for a time. - -Work the remaining side for 18 rows, and in the 19th you must have all -your stitches again on one pin, namely, 129. The casting off has made -the ribs uneven, so keep the 2 plain stitches, which come together, as -the shoulder seam. These 2 stitches are opposite the cast-off stitches. - -In every row decrease on each side of these 2 thus:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass -the slipped over, knit the 2 shoulder stitches, knit 2 together. This -makes 4 decreasings in a row. Do 12 rows, then 3 rows without -decreasing, and make the ribs even now, by knitting 2 together at the -shoulder. Cast off. - -_Sleeve._—Hold the shoulder towards you, and pick up 9 stitches rather -close together; the 5th of these 9 stitches ought to be exactly at the -shoulder; pearl back. Always cast on two more stitches at the beginning -of every row, until you have 42 stitches; you must knit and pearl -alternate rows, making the plain side of sleeve the right side of the -spencer. - -When you have done 53 rows use steel pins, No. 12, and knit 2 pearl, 2 -for 6 rows. Cast off, sew together on the wrong side, then sew in the -sleeve. - - - - - _Frock._ - - -This will fit a child of ten months old. - -You require 6 skeins of the palest blue Berlin fingering. Be careful to -use the pins as directed, for the goring of the skirt is managed without -decreasings. - -Cast on with pins No. 3, 264 stitches. - -Knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row. - -6th row. Knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass -the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 together, knit 3, wool -forward, knit 1. - -7th row. Pearl. - -8th row. This and every alternate row is like the 5th. - -9th row. Pearl. - -11th row. Pearl. - -13th row. Knit; also knit the 15th and 17th rows; then go back to the -5th row. - -When 34 rows are done, use pins No. 5. At the 61st row use pins No. 8. - -77th row. Like 5th, but omit bringing the wool forward. - -78th row. Use steel pins No. 12; you ought to have now 220 stitches. -Decrease about every 9th stitch by pearling 2 together, so as to reduce -your number of stitches to 192. - -74th row *. Bring the wool forward, slip 1, inserting the pin as though -you were going to pearl it, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Do 48 rows -in this manner. Note that each chain is 2 rows. - -123rd row. Knit 54, that is, 18 sets of 3. Leave the other stitches. -With a third steel pin, No. 12, knit back on these 54 still with the -brioche stitch. - -2nd row. Knit 51 (or 17 sets), knit the 3 last together, omitting to -bring the wool forward. - -3rd row. Slip 1 in the usual way, brioche the rest. You must always -decrease at the end in every alternate row for the slope. Of course -these decreasings come at the end nearest the middle. - -When you have decreased to 42, do 9 rows without decreasings. The body -ought at this side to be 68 rows deep; you are at the beginning of a -row; leave these stitches now, do not break off the wool. - -Take another ball, join the end with a wool needle, work upon the centre -84 stitches; slip the last 54 upon a piece of wool. - -Decrease at each end of the 84 until you have only 69, then work without -decreasing until this part is the same length as the other. Leave these -stitches and break off the wool; take care that the wool is at the -right-hand end. - -Do the last side to match the first, and then leave the body until the -sleeves are ready. - -_Sleeve._—Cast on 56 with the steel pins No. 12, knit a row, pearl a -row, knit a row. - -4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped -over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1. - -4th row. Pearl. Repeat alternately, but the 11th, 13th, and 15th rows -are knitted. - -18th row. Use pins No. 8. - -20th row. Slip the 1st, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Continue -as usual, but decrease at the end by omitting to put the wool forward. - -21st row. Pearl 2 together at the beginning and end of every row. In the -22nd row, knit 3 together to make the pattern even. - -32nd row. Cast off 4 stitches, knit 25, cast off the last 4; break off -the wool and fasten it in with a wool needle. - -Now go on with the body. Begin from the right side where you had left -your ball of wool. Still use pins No. 12. Plain knitting, taking the -stitch and the wool before it as 1; consequently you have 36 plain -stitches on this pin now. Knit off the 27 sleeve stitches from the No. 8 -pin. The remainder is all plain knitting. Knit the centre stitches, knit -off the 27 of your second sleeve, knit the last 54. You ought to have -154 stitches altogether. Do 2 plain rows. - -3rd row. Knit 3, knit 2 together alternately. - -4th row. Put the wool round the needle every third stitch (above the -decreasing in previous row). This makes holes for running in a ribbon as -a fastening. Do 2 more plain rows. Leave this part; do not break off the -wool. - -_Edging for Neck._—Cast on 184 with pins No. 12, and work like sleeve -for 7 rows. Lay this pin beside the neck, and cast off through both at -once, so as to join the two; but remember that the edging has 30 more -stitches than the neck, so you must occasionally take 2 of the border -stitches together. It is easier to do this with a bone crochet-hook than -with a knitting-pin. - -Make button-hole by pulling aside the stitches and working over. The -buttons ought to be small, flat moulds, covered with crochet. - -It is a good plan to match the sash for the frock with the wool first, -as it is not possible to get in all shades a good match for silk and -wool. - - - - - _Petticoat_. - - -This is a very simple and quick pattern to fit a little child; it is -meant to be sewn to the stays. - -Use pins No. 9 and white Scotch fingering. Cast on 150 stitches and knit -plain for 8 inches. Use finer pins for 2 more inches. Then use steel -pins, No. 16, and knit 2, pearl 2, for 6 rows. Cast off. Pull out the -knitting a good deal while you are measuring. This particular work looks -better with the rows wide apart. - - - - - _Tam O’Shanter Cap._ - - -The crown is done in crochet, treble or double round and round until -large enough, increasing wherever necessary to make it lie flat. The -improvement is to make the brim of knitting instead of crochet. Use -single Berlin wool, wheeling, or fingering yarn. - -For an ordinary size, to measure 22 inches, 114 stitches. - -Pick up with 3 pins, No. 14, 38 on each pin, knit 2, pearl 2 for 14 -rounds, and cast off very loosely. A tight knitter had better cast on 6 -more, as this pattern is for a loose knitter. - -For a child of 4 years have 35 stitches on 2 pins, and 36 on the third, -and rib 2 plain, 2 pearl. - - - - - _Open-work Pattern._ - - -Cast on in sixes. - -1st row. Bring the wool forward before the needle, knit 1, wool forward, -knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. - -2nd row. This and every alternate row pearled. - -3rd row. Wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, -pass the slipped stitch over. - -5th row. Knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, knit 1, -wool forward, knit 1, wool forward. - -7th row. Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, wool forward, -knit 3, wool forward. - -Always cast on 2 or 4 stitches over, so as to have 1 or 2 stitches plain -at the beginning of each row. - -Notice that an open-work pattern of a sock is broader than plain -knitting: it is as well to have a few less stitches for open-work -knitting than for plain knitting. - - - - - _Child’s Sock._ - - -This is full size for a child of a year old; the leg is 7 inches, and -the foot 5¾ long, inclusive measurement. 4 pins, No. 16, and 1 skein -Shetland wool. For a smaller sized sock use pins No. 17. - -Cast on 71 stitches, rib 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 18 rows, making the 1st -stitch the seam-stitch; that is, you pearl this stitch every 3rd round. -Then plain knitting until the leg is 4½ inches deep. Now, work the -seam-stitch, knit 2 together, and when you come to the last 2 stitches -of the round slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Knit 10 -rounds and repeat this decreasing. When 5¼ inches are done, divide your -stitches for the heel. - -_Heel._—Put 17 stitches on each side of the seam-stitch, have them all -on one pin; you ought to have 35 stitches for your heel. You leave the -other 32 stitches on the 2 remaining pins. Knit and pearl alternate rows -upon these heel-stitches for 2 inches, still making the seam stitch. - -When this piece measures 2 inches long you turn the heel. - -* Knit to the seam-stitch. Knit that stitch, for henceforward you cease -making it. Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 1. Turn back, pearl 11, pearl 2 -together, pearl 1. Turn back and repeat from *. - -You perceive the actual turning of the heel is all on 13 stitches. - -Pick up 17 from the side of heel, knit the 32, pick up 17 from the -second side, and now you knit in rounds again. You have 79 stitches. -Reduce at each side every 2nd row until you have only 67. When the foot -measures 4½ inches long, decrease for the toe at each side, thus:—Slip -1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2, knit 2 together. Knit the -middle 33 stitches, and repeat the decreasings; in this way you get rid -of 4 stitches. Do this every other row. When 5½ inches are done, -measuring from the outside of heel, draw the stitches together with a -needle, or knit together by dividing on to 2 needles, or cast off and -sew up. - - - - - _Baby’s Boot: Small Size._ - - -The sock is knitted in Shetland and the shoe in Penelope wool. 2 pins, -No. 15, and 2 No. 17. - -Cast on 27 stitches for the sole, which is all plain knitting. Increase -at the end of every row until you have 36 stitches. Discontinue -increasing now, and knit 3, pearl 3, for 3 rows. - -Then change the squares to make an even pattern; pearling where you had -knitted in the previous row. - -Go on in this way for 12 rows. Work 24 stitches, then slip them on a -piece of wool. Work the other 12 stitches and knit twice into the last -stitch. Increase twice at this side at the end of every row for 7 rows, -until you have 20 stitches. Be careful to keep the squares even. Do one -row without increasing, then decrease at the same place at the beginning -and at the end of every row until you have 12 again. Cast on 24 more -stitches opposite the other side. Do 12 rows of the pattern, then -decrease at each end until you have only 27. Cast off. - -Go on with the 24 which you had slipped on a piece of wool, slip the -point of the pin through 12 stitches from the front across the instep, -then run it through the 24 stitches which you had cast on for the second -side. This makes 60 altogether. Knit a row, pearl a row, alternately; -the pearled rows come on the right side of the shoe and make a roll. Do -4 rows and cast off. - -With the Shetland and pins No. 16 raise 16 stitches quite underneath the -roll at the instep (where you had picked up the 12), knit and pearl -alternate rows 18 times. Be careful that the plain rows come on the -right side. - -19th row. Raise 23 on the left side, pearl back on these 39 stitches, -raise 23 from the next side. Knit alternate pearl and plain rows for 28 -rows, rib for 10 rows and cast off very loosely. Sew up very carefully, -especially at the toe; it is a very good shape if not made too broad. - -_Strap._—Cast on 17 with pins No. 15 and Penelope wool; fasten to the -heel by knitting on 5 stitches behind the roll, working through the -heel-stitches of the boot; cast on 17 more stitches: you ought to have -39 altogether. Knit 2 plain rows. - -3rd row. Knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward; repeat. Knit 2 more -plain rows, and cast off. Make a crochet chain or twist of wool and run -it through these holes; add a ball at each end of it. - - - - - _Baby’s Boot: Medium Size._ - - -Merino or Andalusian wool, and pins No. 14. - -All these patterns can have the sock worked in white, and the shoe part -in a colour, but all white is preferable. - -Cast on 48, and do 14 rows of ribbed knitting. Then knit a row, pearl a -row for 2 inches; or work this part in any open-work pattern, of which -there are so many in _The Lady’s Knitting-Books_, especially on page 56 -of 1st Series. - -1st row of instep. Knit 18; leave these stitches for a time: you can -slip them on a piece of wool, and knit backwards and forwards on the -centre 12 stitches for 18 rows. Suppose you have made the leg open-work -knitting, this must be done the same. You can slip the last 18 stitches -also on a piece of wool. - -19th row. If you are using two colours, you must now join the coloured -wool, which is used for the remainder of the boot. Plain knitting. - -20th row. Knit. - -21st row. Pearl. - -22nd row. Knit. - -23rd row. Knit. Pearl the next row, and continue thus to make ridges of -3 lines. When 4 ridges are done, you must decrease for the toe. Pearl -the 12 stitches as usual to keep the ridges even. Then for the 13th row -work thus:—Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6, -knit 2 together, knit 1. - -14th row. Pearl. - -15th row. Like 13th, but knit 4 instead of 6. - -16th row. Knit. - -17th row. Pearl 1, pearl 2 together, pearl 2, pearl 2 together, pearl 1. - -18th row. Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit the -last 2 together. This finishes the toe. Break off the wool and fasten in -the end. - -Go on with the right-hand pin which has the 18 stitches on it; knit -these off, then raise 24 from the side; knit the 4 toe stitches. Now -take a third pin (you only use it once, so it does not matter if it is -not the same size) and run through the 18 stitches you had slipped on -the piece of wool, and raise 24 from the side of instep: knit these off. -You have now 88 stitches altogether. Pearl the next row, knit the next -2, and so on, to keep the ridges even. Do 4 of these ridges. - -13th row. You have the wrong side of the knitting towards you. Knit 3, -knit 2 together, knit 31, knit 2 together, knit 12, knit 2 together, -knit 31, knit 2 together, knit 3. - -14th row. Pearl. - -15th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 30, knit 2 together, knit 10, -knit 2 together, knit 30, knit 2 together, knit 3. - -16th row. Pearl. - -17th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 29, knit 2 together, knit 8, -knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 29, knit 2 together, knit -3. - -18th row. As usual. - -19th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 28, knit 2 together, knit 6, -knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 28, knit 2 together, knit -3. - -Slip half your stitches on another pin, lay the pins alongside, and cast -off through both stitches at once. - -_Strap._—Cast on 20 stitches; then cast on 5 more, at the same time -drawing the wool through the shoe itself, exactly in the centre of the -upper ridge at the heel. This makes 45 altogether; pearl back. - -2nd row. Knit 1, knit 3 together, knit the rest. - -3rd. Pearl 41, pearl into the long stitch, pearl again into it by -twisting it, pearl the last. Knit the next row and cast off. Sew a -button to the other side. - -This pattern is very pretty, with the leg and open-work pattern done in -Shetland wool. In either silk or Shetland, and pins No. 17, cast on 64 -stitches, have 14 for the instep, which must be about 18 rows long. Then -join the Andalusian wool for the ridges, which make the toe, and do the -shoe also in Andalusian. - - - - - _Baby’s Boot: Full Size._ - - -You require a skein of Shetland wool, and one of Penelope yarn, two pins -No. 16, and two bone No. 13. With pins No. 16, cast on 72 stitches. You -can use the same number of stitches for silk. Knit the 1st and 3rd rows, -pearl the 2nd. - -4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped -over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1. Repeat. - -5th row. Plain. - -Repeat these two rows for 2½ inches. Cast off 26, knit 46. In the next -row cast off 24 stitches, and work backwards and forwards, keeping the -pattern even, upon the middle 20 stitches. Pearl the alternate rows. -Work 22 rows, cast off. - -_Boot._—The coarser wool and pins. Cast on 28, knit the first row. Then -always increase at the end of every row until you have 38 stitches. Do -15 rows without increasing. - -_Toe._—21st row. Work only on 13 stitches, leaving 25 unworked. You can -slip these on a piece of wool. Increase 1 at the end of every row; this -increasing is at the end farthest away from the 25 stitches. When you -have 23 stitches, decrease at the same place every alternate row, by -knitting the last 2 together until you have 13 again. Cast on 25 more -for the second side, do 15 plain rows, then decrease at the end of each -row, until you have only 28 stitches. Cast off. - -Go on with those on the third pin. Raise 12 on the instep, raise the -stitches you first cast on. You ought to have 63 stitches. Join the -wool; knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, cast off. Sew -the Shetland part to the Penelope, beginning at the instep, then sew -from the heel, so as to be sure that the sock shall be put in exactly -even. Last of all, sew up the boot; all this sewing to be on the wrong -side, of course. - -Make the strap as described in either of the previous patterns. The last -is advised. - -This pattern can be knitted in a quicker way for common wear by doing it -entirely in Penelope wool. - -For full size use bone pins No. 13. Cast on 34 for the sole; work the -boot as described, only allow for these extra 6 stitches; then do the -roll, for which you raise 15 at the instep. It does not signify whether -the roll curls inward or outward, that is a matter of taste. Begin the -sock at the instep by raising 14 stitches, knit and pearl alternate -rows, to look like a stocking, for 11 rows, then raise the last 14 on -each side, and knit all the 42 stitches, pearl the alternate rows. - -Do 16 rows, rib 12 rows, cast off very loosely. - - - - - _Daisy Stitch Shawl._ - - -Knitted with white and coloured wool, any fine kind, and coarse needles. -You must increase at the end of every row. - -Cast on 5 with white and pearl them. Slip the first, wool forward, knit -3, slip the first of these over the other 2. - -This makes the daisy. Knit the other 2. Now join the colour and pearl -back. The alternate rows are always pearled, and you must always change -the colour then. - -The next row is fancy knitting, and is always alike. When there is 1 -stitch left you knit plain, and increase as usual; but when there are 2 -you pick up another between, so as to have the 3 stitches necessary for -the pattern. - - - - - _Shawl._ - - -This is quite easy work. It is very soft and warm, and is meant to take -the place of a long first cloak. It is all plain knitting with a good -border. - -You require 1½ lb. of white Berlin fingering wool and long wooden pins, -No. 3. - -Cast on 1 stitch and increase at the end of every row until the knitting -measures 1 yard and 5 inches deep, then decrease by knitting the last 2 -in every row together, until you have only 2. Cast them off. - -_Border._—Work 1 round of double crochet. - -2nd round. 1 long treble (wool twice round the hook), 1 chain, miss 1. -Repeat. - -3rd round. Do 2 rounds of fan-pattern (page 16 of _The Lady’s -Crochet-Book_, third Series). Increase at the corners. - -6th round. Work 8 treble into a hole, miss a hole, 1 single into the -next, and so on to make a scallop. - -Run a thick cream satin ribbon all round the shawl in the spaces left by -the long treble. - - -_Index of Things to be found in ‘The Lady’s Knitting-Books,’ Parts_ I., - II., III., _and_ IV. _The Number of Part is given._ - - A - - Antimacassars _Parts_ I., III., IV. - Arrow Pattern I. - - B - - Baby’s Boots I., II., III., IV. - ” Hood I., II. - ” Quilt I. - Bag III., IV. - Balls III. - Berceaunette Blanket III. - ” Cover I., III. - Bodices I., IV. - Borders I., III. - Braces IV. - Brioche Knitting I. - - C - - Cable Knitting I. - Canadian Cloud I. - Cardinal Cape III. - Carriage Rug I., III., IV. - Child’s Chemise III. - Comforter I. - Counterpanes I., II., III. - Couvrettes I., II., III., IV. - Crimean Helmet II. - Cushion I., IV. - - D - - Double Knitting I. - - E - - Edgings I., III. - - F - - Fancy Stitches I., II., III., IV. - Fringe I. - Frock III. - - G - - Gaiters I., II. - Gloves IV. - - H - - Hassock III. - Hearth Rug I. - Hood II. - - J - - Jackets IV. - Jerseys I., III. - - K - - Knee-cap I. - - L - - Loop Knitting I. - - M - - Mittens III., IV. - Muff II. - Muffatees I., III., IV. - - N - - Night Sock I. - - O - - Open-work Patterns I., II., III., IV. - Opera Cloak II., III. - - P - - Pence Jugs I., II. - Petticoats I., II., III., IV. - Pincushion II. - Purse I. - - Q - - Quilts (_see Counterpanes_). - - S - - Scalloped Edging I., III. - Scotch Cap for Pence III. - Shawls I. - Sleeves III. - Slipper with Warm Lining IV. - Socks I. - Sofa Blankets IV. - Stockings I. - ” on Two Pins III. - Swiss Brioche Stitch III. - - T - - Tea Cosey II., IV. - Tippets II., III. - Towel IV. - - U - - University Boating Jersey III. - - V - - Veil II. - Vests I., II., III., IV. - - W - - Waistcoats I. - Window Curtains III. - Work for Poor People IV. - - - - - WORK BOOKS BY E. M. C. - - - Lady’s Crewel Embroidery. First Series. - 6th Thousand. 12 Floral Designs and Directions. 2_s._ 6_d._ - Lady’s Crewel Embroidery. Second Series. - 3rd Thousand. 12 Floral Designs and Directions. 2_s._ 6_d._ - Embroidery and Art-Needlework Designs. - With Directions, &c. 2_s._ 6_d._ - Knitting. 4 Parts. 218 Patterns. - Square 18mo. cloth, 1_s._ 6_d._; paper, 1_s._ each. - The Four in One Vol., cloth gilt, 4_s._ 6_d._ - Crochet. 4 Parts. 145 Patterns. - Square 18mo. cloth, 1_s._ 6_d._; paper, 1_s._ each. - The Four in One Vol., cloth gilt, 4_s._ 6_d._ - Work. 2 Parts. 129 Patterns. - Square 18mo. cloth, 1_s._ 6_d._; paper, 1_s._ each. - Netting. 1 Part. 36 Patterns. - Square 18mo. cloth, 1_s._ 6_d._; paper, 1_s._ each. - Teacher’s Assistant in Needlework. For Schools. - Sewed, 6_d._ - The Knitting-Teacher’s Assistant. For Schools. - Sewed, 6_d._ - - N.B.—The 13 Series in handsome box, price 15_s._ - - -Over 160,000 Copies of the above Series have been sold. - - - HATCHARDS, 187 PICCADILLY, LONDON. - _And all Booksellers and Berlin-Wool Warehousemen._ - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mother's Knitter, by Elvina M. 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