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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of London as seen by Charles Dana Gibson, by
-Charles Dana Gibson
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: London as seen by Charles Dana Gibson
-
-Author: Charles Dana Gibson
-
-Release Date: July 23, 2020 [EBook #62738]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LONDON ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chuck Greif (This file was produced from images
-available at The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- LONDON
-
- AS SEEN BY
-
- CHARLES DANA GIBSON
-
- NEW YORK
-
- CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
-
- MDCCCXCVII
-
- Copyright, 1897, by Charles Scribner’s Sons
-
- Thanks are due to _Life_ and the _London Graphic_ for their kind
- permission to reproduce some of the drawings in this book.
-
- TROW DIRECTORY
-
- PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY
-
- NEW YORK
-
-
-
-
-LONDON STREETS
-
-
-[Illustration: The Rat Man]
-
-AFTER a short journey through country divided by hedges into a green and
-gold checker-board; thatched roofs disappear, and chimney-pots take
-their place and flourish until you come to the Thames, where black
-barges in mid-stream wait for the muddy tide to turn, between banks of
-masts and smokestacks; then the Gothic buildings of Parliament, and “Big
-Ben,” and Charing Cross Station; and in another moment you are in
-London, riding through the never-ending restlessness of its streets in a
-cab that you can afford, with your hat-box safe by your side and your
-trunk up by the driver, and London with its history on all sides of you,
-its wooden streets and polished side-walks and bright shop windows, and
-at every corner small sweeps and big policemen, providing clean and safe
-crossing, while push-carts dodge in and out between steaming bus-horses
-and hansom cabs. This is always my first impression of London.
-
-[Illustration: _Outside Morley’s_]
-
-As all Americans arrive in London with sea-legs after a week of ship’s
-cooking, it is doubly necessary to have been there before in order to
-know where to go at once for an on-shore dinner and good rooms. But
-before you arrive at either of these you once more become a part of the
-city and again feel perfectly at home, as you look from your cab window
-at theatrical lithographs to find out what is going on for that night;
-and no transformation scene on the stage is more complete than your own,
-from standing in the companion-way waiting for the ship’s run to be
-posted, to a few hours later sitting in a London theatre watching the
-stage rock from side to side.
-
-I believe an American enjoys London more during his second visit. He is
-sure to be older for one thing, and with very little left of the
-prejudice he once had. He is not so apt to wear a sensitive patriotic
-chip on his shoulder, and for this reason he will give London a better
-opportunity to know him. If it is your second visit you have the
-pleasure of recognizing familiar types and places. Your hotel porter may
-remember you, and there may be one or two of the old waiters still left
-in the dining-room. Nelson’s Column and the National Gallery are former
-friends; also the recruiting sergeants, among them Sergeant Charley, the
-best known of all. He has stood at the corner of the National Gallery
-for many years, and has probably talked more country boys into Her
-Majesty’s service, consoled more weeping mothers, and cheered more
-disappointed maidens than any other man in the British army. There is no
-better place in which Sergeant Charley can operate than Trafalgar
-Square--or from which the stranger can begin London.
-
-[Illustration: _Between Times, Leicester Square_]
-
-[Illustration: _On Bond Street_]
-
-The bewildering scene always reminds me of the art student I once saw
-painting it from the steps of the gallery; and I thought then that if
-the actors on the great stage in front of her could have seen the
-hopeless condition of her canvas and her pale, worried face they might
-have stood still for awhile. But the panorama has never stopped, and the
-only quiet figures in Trafalgar Square are its bronze statues. There you
-will see country boys looking, with admiring envy, at the smart uniforms
-of the soldiers, and with terror at the dingy army of sandwich-men
-shuffling through the gutter carrying advertisements of hot and cold
-luncheons, Turkish baths, manicure parlors, and places of amusement,
-serving, at the same time, as awful examples of what will happen to all
-those who do not take the sergeant’s advice and become soldiers. Even
-some of the street beggars are familiar. “The old rat-man” and his pets
-find Brighton too dull in the winter, and come up to London for the
-season, to mix once more in its streets, where all kinds of horses are
-driven by as great a variety of men, from the pedler to the
-powdered-wigged coachman. Cable-cars and trolleys would be sadly out of
-place in London, and horseless carriages would be a calamity. There
-should be no need to go faster than a horse can trot, and the best way
-of all is to walk.
-
-[Illustration: _Sergeant Charley_]
-
-You can stand on a bridge while scows drift slowly under you, and St.
-Paul’s sinks into the smoke and darkness, like the dissolving views at a
-lecture on travel. It is quite proper that the underground railway
-should be used mostly for advertising purposes; but the most gaudy
-posters fail to brighten up those dingy tunnels, and no amount of speed
-can compensate for the time you are away from the world over your head.
-London is not a place to go under.
-
-There is no reason to be lonely. No one ever knows London, and before
-you have been there long you are showing Londoners about their own city
-with the pride of a part owner in its history; for, to an American, the
-old part of the city is his--as much so as the portraits of his
-ancestors. The pictures may not be on his walls, but he stands as good a
-chance of being like their originals as the man who owns the house in
-which they hang.
-
-[Illustration: _Hyde Park Corner_]
-
-
-
-
-LONDON AUDIENCES
-
-
-NOWHERE is caste more noticeable than in a London audience. A little
-board fence divides the ground-floor of a theatre into orchestra stalls
-and a pit. It would cost you ten shillings less and your social position
-to sit on the wrong side of this fence. It does not follow that sitting
-on the right side of it assures your position. But it does give you an
-uninterrupted view of the stage. No hats are worn, and that alone makes
-it worth extra charge. There is, in most of the theatres, room for your
-knees, and in some, additional room for the man who goes out between the
-acts, and people who arrive after the curtain is up. A London audience
-is brilliant. Everyone is in evening dress, and the audience is often
-more entertaining than the play. This is especially true on a first
-night. At such times the pit is watched most anxiously by the
-management, as the success of the piece generally depends on their
-verdict. It has often occurred to me, when I have seen them on a stormy
-night forming a line on the pavement outside the pit entrance, taking it
-all seriously enough to stand there for hours before the doors were
-opened, that by letting them inside the management might improve their
-spirits, and they in their turn might be more gentle.
-
-[Illustration: Outside the Pit Entrance]
-
-And it has also occurred to me that the management might further improve
-the spirits of their audience by doing away with women ushers, and by
-selling the programme at the same time they sell the seat; for it is
-hardly fair to the first act of a play to make it overcome the
-fretfulness caused by annoying attendants before it can hope to amuse.
-But the second act is sure to have a fair start, and if the play is good
-from there on, it will have no reason to complain of the audience.
-
-An Englishman’s memory begins with a pantomime. A Drury Lane audience
-easily explains this, as a large portion of it is composed of children.
-This is just as it should be. The only mistake is that each year the
-clown and pantaloon have less to do. Last winter they only appeared in
-front of the drop curtain, and had difficulty in entertaining the
-audience until the next scene had been set. It is strange that this
-should happen among people who are naturally so true to old friends. In
-the place of harlequin’s tricks they have the aërial ballets and
-electrical effects, and altogether a performance that can be done just
-as well at the Empire or the Alhambra. This is dangerous, for it might
-in time change the character of a pantomime audience.
-
-[Illustration: _A First Night_]
-
-[Illustration: _Small Wigs and Big Fees_]
-
-[Illustration: _In the Lord Chief Justice’s Court_]
-
-A fancy dress-ball in London is slow. The general orders are, “keep
-moving along.” The man who manages the search-light, from one of the top
-boxes, probably enjoys the ball the most. He certainly does more to help
-it. The centre of interest is wherever he will have it. He can make a
-dull costume bright, and a supper-party in one of the boxes proud; and
-he can almost remove the gloom caused by the officials in black.
-
-The greatest variety of expressions are to be seen in the audiences that
-come together at the law courts. There is the never-changing face of the
-judge, and the ever-changing face of the witness rocking from side to
-side in his box, and there are the black-robed barristers with small
-wigs and big fees, and pale law students crowding in at the doors and
-filling the passage-ways; and in front of the long table that is covered
-with papers and high hats sit those most interested in what is going
-on--care-worn parents and women thickly veiled.
-
-[Illustration: _In the “Whispering Gallery”_--A Small Loan]
-
-The most interesting place of amusement for men is the National Sporting
-Club. Every Monday night during the winter the sports of London meet
-there in the same building that Colonel Newcome and his son once left
-because they objected to Captain Costigan’s song. The Colonel would be
-more amused there now, well-trained and scientific boxers from all the
-world meet in a roped-in square, surrounded by an orderly crowd of
-stock-brokers, bankers, and miscellaneous sporting characters, who wait
-for the best man to win. Then they adjourn to a front room, and around
-the bar and little tables they talk about by-gone fights and the men and
-horses whose pictures cover the wall. Some find their way to the Strand,
-where, in a supper-room called Marble Halls, every variety of sport in
-all stages of luck, and actors from the neighboring theatres, discuss
-the fight of the evening round by round.
-
-[Illustration: _At the National Sporting Club_]
-
-A Music Hall audience is the most demonstrative and amusing. It will
-applaud the longest, hiss the loudest, and sometimes join in the chorus.
-From the moment the numbers are posted announcing the next turn, it is
-easy to tell what the performer’s reception will be. On both sides of
-the orchestra are bars, and when a London barmaid stops work to listen
-and laugh you may be sure that the turn is a good one. Last winter they
-paid Dan Leno this compliment. The air is filled with tobacco-smoke, and
-the calcium-light, on its way from the gallery to the stage, looks like
-a sunbeam in a dusty hayloft.
-
-[Illustration: _At the Pavilion_]
-
-
-
-
-LONDON PARKS
-
-
-[Illustration: _A Sidewalk Artist_]
-
-THE first and most natural question asked of any city is “Show us your
-people.” In answer to this, London may safely begin by pointing to its
-parks, and especially so on any Sunday during the season, for on that
-day you can best see how caste has assorted and parcelled the city off
-into so many exhibits, as carefully arranged as the specimens in the
-British Museum.
-
-The walks in Hyde Park have their special social value, as much so as
-the walks in life; and in the park or in life, whichever path an
-Englishman uses, it is safe to suppose that his ancestors walked there
-before him. The parks of London are handy. From a Piccadilly club window
-can be seen sheep enough to fill a barn-yard, and a stone’s throw from
-the Horse Guards is St. James’s Park with its duck island, where all
-kinds of rare birds flock together; and their relatives in far-away
-countries are no better fed than these happy exiles in the heart of the
-great city, and the peacocks that ornament the banks of the Serpentine
-are as happy as the boys who sail the toy-boats on that toy river.
-
-[Illustration: _Sunday Morning near Stanhope Gate_]
-
-Sunday is Hyde Park’s day “At Home,” and in the shape of a blue sky she
-sends her invitation to all London, and her popularity is easily shown
-by the number and variety of her friends. By long odds the best-looking
-exhibit is to be seen during church-parade. It extends from Hyde Park
-Corner to Stanhope Gate, and consists of the well-to-do, most of whom
-probably first came to the park with their nurses and a little later
-with their tutors, and they now come grown up and with white hair to pay
-their respects to the good doctor of their childhood. They form what is
-distinctly a Sunday gathering, and one as serious as a wedding. Seldom a
-loud voice is heard. There is a feeling of rest throughout the whole
-scene, and it is impossible to be there without entering into the spirit
-of it. In the solemn throng that pass and repass I have seen a noisy
-steamer acquaintance thoroughly subdued and looking like an undertaker
-in a long coat and high hat. Everyone else seemed to have been there
-from childhood. The old gentleman in the Row undoubtedly first appeared
-there on Shetland ponies under the watchful eye of the groom. It is not
-a thing to tire of, and Sunday after Sunday these well-dressed people
-attend church-parade as seriously as they attend church. A little
-farther into the park are the shopkeepers and domestics listening to the
-band. Here you are likely to meet the real estate agent and tailor with
-whom you have already had dealings. They are a distinct class, and very
-different from the first exhibit. They keep their frock-coats carefully
-buttoned, and are apparently not so much at their ease.
-
-
-[Illustration: _HAMLET_]
-
-[Illustration: _A Constitutional in the Park_]
-
-[Illustration: _In the Row_]
-
-[Illustration: _A Park Orator_]
-
-Separated from these people by another social gulf, and toward Marble
-Arch, are the unemployed listening to the park actors and park orators.
-If you are tall enough to look over the heads of an English crowd you
-will see in some of these groups strolling players at work. In the
-centre of one group a short, red-faced park orator declares that a Prime
-Minister has robbed him.
-
-The farther away from these shady paths the sadder London is. Among them
-foreigners feel at home. Little home-sick law students from India may
-mope in Piccadilly, but in Hyde Park they look happy. Once there the
-British soldier is no longer war-like; he becomes helpless and happy,
-surrounded by nature and under the influence of some pink-cheeked
-domestic.
-
-In the early part of the day the parks are occupied by very young
-people; the visitors become older with the day. The nurses and their
-charges leave, and evening finds an old lady leaning on her husband’s
-arm, walking slowly along their favorite path, while their carriage
-follows at a little distance. And as night comes on they roll back into
-the great city among the never-ceasing tread of feet, past the side-walk
-artist sitting by his pictures on the pavement, looking anxiously at the
-passers-by--and the park’s day is done--a curtain of darkness falls on
-the great stage; the peacocks go to roost in its trees; the ducks are
-undisturbed by wet dogs, and the Serpentine’s small fish are no longer
-in danger of bent pins; and the park, London’s kind friend and good
-physician, is resting.
-
-[Illustration: _Church Parade_]
-
-[Illustration: _After Hours_]
-
-
-
-
-A DRAWING-ROOM
-
-
-ON March 11, 1896, the first Drawing-room of that year was held at
-Buckingham Palace. Through the courtesy of the Lord Chamberlain I was
-given the entree to the palace on that day. As a Drawing-room is
-strictly a feminine affair, it matters very little what a man may think
-about it, for the line points of social advantages and the costly
-costumes he seldom understands. Apart from the foreign ambassadors,
-members of the Cabinet and attendants, men are not wanted and are seldom
-seen. Women go in hundreds, and sit for hours in carriages, extending in
-long rows down the Mall, while a crowd of curious idlers stare in at the
-carriage windows, making audible personal remarks. At two o’clock the
-palace gates are open, and the waiting continues in the different rooms
-above stairs.
-
-[Illustration: _Waiting_]
-
-[Illustration: _A Barrier_]
-
-[Illustration: _After Presentation_]
-
-These rooms are divided by barriers, guarded by gentlemen of the
-household, which prevents over-crowding. It is an extraordinary sight to
-see room after room filled with nervous young girls and their more
-composed mothers sitting in the unbecoming light of an afternoon sun,
-with white plumes in their hair and the family jewels on their necks.
-With the exception of a now and then whispered conversation, everything
-is quiet until the barriers leading into the next room are opened; then
-a rush follows and small pieces of lace, spangles, flowers, and ostrich
-feathers are left on the floor. Mothers and daughters are separated.
-After the confusion of finding each other, all is quiet for another
-thirty minutes, when a rush for a better place in the next room begins.
-A retired Colonel, the guardian of a barrier, noticing my interest and
-my evening dress, asked me if I did not think it looked like an ostrich
-farm. He pointed out his wife to me, and said a French hairdresser had
-been at his house all that morning. The Colonel’s pretty wife looked it.
-From there I crossed the ambassadors’ room and the picture-gallery,
-where the people who have the entree wait, and entered the throne-room.
-At that time there were three men in it; two of them, gentlemen of the
-household, were standing on either side of the door. One of them told me
-that the young officer with a bearskin hat on his arm, standing by a
-long window overlooking the central court, was there to signal to the
-band outside when the royal family entered, in order that they might
-know when to play “God Save the Queen.” He also motioned with his head
-toward a small door in one corner of the big red room, and said through
-it the royal party would enter. I asked the same gentleman why
-Drawing-rooms were not held in the evening. He said he did not know. At
-this time the Prime-Minister, in a dark uniform with a blue ribbon
-across his breast, entered the room, followed by Court dignitaries,
-gentlemen ushers, and the Lord Chamberlain with his staff of office.
-Then the little door opened, and while the band played “God Save the
-Queen,” the Princess of Wales and the royal party filed in. Then there
-was a low bow on both sides; the Lord Chamberlain took his position by
-the Princess of Wales, and read from the cards handed him by the ushers
-the names of those who were being presented.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-After the ambassadors and their wives came those having the entree;
-after them those without. The white procession had started, and the
-Drawing-room that had been rehearsed and looked forward to for years, as
-far as each individual’s part in it was concerned, was soon over. At the
-end of two hours there was another low bow, and the royal family filed
-back through the little door. The bustle and waiting was transferred to
-the grand hall below, where little olive-skinned Indian ladies of high
-birth, and famous English beauties whose photographs could be bought on
-Piccadilly, stood side by side until their carriages stopped the way.
-Mothers and daughters passed between rows of Yeomen of the Guard to the
-door, daylight, and the photographers; finally home, where tea is
-arranged, and friends are gathered to hear about it.
-
-I had a second opportunity to see a Drawing-room, and I am of the
-impression that they must be very much alike.
-
-[Illustration: _A Gentleman at Arms_]
-
-[Illustration: _A Drawing-room Tea_]
-
-
-
-
-LONDON SALONS
-
-
-[Illustration: _An Early Departure_]
-
-THE “season” begins about the time Parliament opens, and Parliament’s
-opening and closing depends more or less on fox-hunting and
-grouse-shooting. As the “season” approaches, town-houses are opened and
-“green” servants are broken in; secretaries busy themselves with lists
-and stationery, and the winter campaign begins immediately upon the
-family’s return to town. As a London house is seldom needed for more
-than the formal entertainments of a season, it is in most cases hired;
-consequently, it is seldom attractive. Acquaintances are entertained in
-the city, and friends are taken into the country to spend the week’s end
-on the family estate, surrounded by the household gods and the most
-attractive side of all England. There the future members of the House of
-Lords, and the belles of some future Drawing-room, ride donkeys, and the
-older people ride wheels and sit under English oaks and make little
-water-color sketches, and it is easily seen why only social duties take
-them to London.
-
-[Illustration: _Distinguished Guests_]
-
-By eight o’clock in the evening almost every other house that you see
-will have a little red carpet stretching from its door to the curb, and
-in some cases a temporary awning over it. The streets seem to be given
-over entirely to carriages and hansoms carrying people to dinner. When
-the last guest has arrived the carpet is taken in until later on, when
-it again rolls back down the steps and across the pavement, between two
-lines of footmen, while the butler whistles for hansoms, and half of
-fashionable London goes to its own house, its club, or its lodgings. A
-Member of Parliament, during a short recess, will leave the House and
-drive miles to a dinner. He may arrive thirty minutes late, or leave
-before the dinner is half over. A Quartermaster-General will leave the
-War Office an hour earlier, because he has promised to go bicycling with
-some young people, and an Editor will leave his paper and accompany his
-wife to a tea.
-
-[Illustration: _After Dinner_]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration: _At Dinner_]
-
-This interest in all things gives English people time for everything.
-
-A London reception is bright and amusing. In the early part of the
-evening statesmen, diplomats, and older people are in the majority; at
-eleven o’clock those who have been to the play arrive, and a little
-later the actors themselves. From the staircase people can best be seen.
-It is always crowded by those who are on their way to pay respects to
-the hostess in the hall above, and by those who have already done so and
-are on their way down to the supper-room. Above and below a dense crowd
-elbow and talk around and through you. You are slowly twisted past your
-hostess and through the parlors, and then finally back to the staircase,
-down which you can go as slowly as you please. No one is in a hurry--so
-out into the early morning, between rows of uniformed coachmen standing
-like sentries sleeping on their post.
-
-[Illustration: _Your Hostess_]
-
-
-
-
-LONDON PEOPLE
-
-
-ONCE upon a time, judging by John Leech’s pictures of English women (who
-could do almost everything in those days but manage their hoop-skirts),
-they were all short and became instantly stout when they arrived at
-forty. If Leech was right, English women must have changed very much
-since then. It may be that they grew tall to more closely resemble Du
-Maurier’s goddesses. In many cases they have succeeded, as may be seen
-at Lord’s or at any fashionable race-course. There may not be a variety
-of good looks, but one type is very beautiful. So strong is the family
-likeness, they might all be handsome sisters. There was something very
-sweet and lovable about that plump little woman of Mr. Leech’s. I only
-met her in reality after she had grown into a sweet old lady, and I
-should have regretted not having seen her before had I not seen her tall
-granddaughters.
-
-[Illustration: _Patiently Listening_]
-
-The fact that Phil May is a prophet in his own country should alone
-clear Englishmen of the suspicion that they are slow to see fun. On an
-Englishman’s love of fair play and good sport no suspicion has ever
-rested. It is the most attractive thing about him, and it is only
-natural that the greatest assortment of good-natured people are to be
-found at the Derby. I had already met them in May’s drawings, and I was
-prepared to find the good-nature contagious. Last year a party on a
-coach opposite the Royal box and a policeman, who looked after that
-particular part of the course, drank champagne out of the same bottle.
-When the Prince of Wales came down to lead Persimmon off the track,
-short men stood on boxes and balanced themselves by holding on to
-whoever stood next to them. Gypsy fortune-tellers and painted-faced
-minstrels climbed on the backs of coaches. Everyone shouted together and
-probably wished that the Prince had been a little taller, so that they
-might all have seen him.
-
-[Illustration: _At the Savoy_]
-
-[Illustration: _Phil May_]
-
-[Illustration: _George du Maurier_]
-
-English-speaking people have been introduced to each other by a long
-line of clever draughtsmen. They have laughed together about the same
-people in the truest and sweetest-natured way in all the world. Above
-all others, one hand awakened the interest resulting in people knowing
-themselves and others better. The beautiful was safe in that gentle
-hand. Although the heart that guided it no longer beats, the human
-interest and kindly feeling that it awakened will live forever, and all
-the world has placed among the foremost men of his day the
-affectionately remembered name of George Du Maurier.
-
-These drawings were made among the most hospitable people I ever met.
-When I have failed, it has not been owing to a lack of interest, but
-more likely on account of a consciousness that my results would fall
-short of my desires. The disappointments following the completion of a
-drawing made from a beautiful woman are many. In these portraits I have
-the most to regret.
-
-[Illustration: _The Queen_]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of London as seen by Charles Dana Gibson, by
-Charles Dana Gibson
-
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-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of London as seen by Charles Dana Gibson, by
-Charles Dana Gibson
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: London as seen by Charles Dana Gibson
-
-Author: Charles Dana Gibson
-
-Release Date: July 23, 2020 [EBook #62738]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LONDON ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chuck Greif (This file was produced from images
-available at The Internet Archive)
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-<hr class="full" />
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-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/cover.jpg">
-<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="550" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<h1><big>L O N D O N</big><br /><br />
-<small>
-AS SEEN BY</small><br /><br />
-
-CHARLES &nbsp; DANA &nbsp; GIBSON</h1>
-
-<p class="c">NEW YORK<br />
-CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS<br />
-MDCCCXCVII<br /><br /><br />
-<small>Copyright, 1897, by<br />
-Charles Scribner’s Sons<br /><br />
-Thanks are due to <i>Life</i> and the <i>London Graphic</i> for<br />
-their kind
-permission to reproduce some of the<br />
-drawings in this book.<br /><br /><br />
-TROW DIRECTORY<br />
-PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY<br />
-NEW YORK</small></p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""
-style="border:3px double gray;padding:1em;text-align:center;">
-<tr><td class="smcap"><a href="#LONDON_STREETS">London Streets</a><br />
-<a href="#LONDON_AUDIENCES">London Audiences</a><br />
-<a href="#LONDON_PARKS">London Parks</a><br />
-<a href="#A_DRAWING-ROOM">A Drawing-Room</a><br />
-<a href="#LONDON_SALONS">London Salons</a><br />
-<a href="#LONDON_PEOPLE">London People</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<h2><a name="LONDON_STREETS" id="LONDON_STREETS"></a></h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter1" style="width: 545px;">
-<a href="images/ill_001.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_001.jpg" width="545" height="425" alt="LONDON STREETS" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft">
-<a href="images/ill_002.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_002.jpg" height="331" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>The Rat Man</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span>FTER a short journey through country divided by hedges into a green and
-gold checker-board; thatched roofs disappear, and chimney-pots take
-their place and flourish until you come to the Thames, where black
-barges in mid-stream wait for the muddy tide to turn, between banks of
-masts and smokestacks; then the Gothic buildings of Parliament, and “Big
-Ben,” and Charing Cross Station; and in another moment you are in
-London, riding through the never-ending restlessness of its streets in a
-cab that you can afford, with your hat-box safe by your side and your
-trunk up by the driver, and London with its history on all sides of you,
-its wooden streets and polished side-walks and bright shop windows, and
-at every corner small sweeps and big policemen, providing clean and safe
-crossing, while push-carts dodge in and out between steaming bus-horses
-and hansom cabs. This is always my first impression of London.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 577px;">
-<a href="images/ill_003.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_003.jpg" width="577" height="396" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Outside Morley’s</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>As all Americans arrive in London with sea-legs after a week of ship’s
-cooking, it is doubly necessary to have been there before in order to
-know where to go at once for an on-shore dinner and good rooms. But
-before you arrive at either of these you once more become a part of the
-city and again feel perfectly at home, as you look from your cab window
-at theatrical lithographs to find out what is going on for that night;
-and no transformation scene on the stage is more complete than your own,
-from standing in the companion-way waiting for the ship’s run to be
-posted, to a few hours later sitting in a London theatre watching the
-stage rock from side to side.</p>
-
-<p>I believe an American enjoys London more during his second visit. He is
-sure to be older for one thing, and with very little left of the
-prejudice he once had. He is not so apt to wear a sensitive patriotic
-chip on his shoulder, and for this reason he will give London a better
-opportunity to know him. If it is your second visit you have the
-pleasure of recognizing familiar types and places. Your hotel porter may
-remember you, and there may be one or two of the old waiters still left
-in the dining-room. Nelson’s Column and the National Gallery are former
-friends; also the recruiting sergeants, among them Sergeant Charley, the
-best known of all. He has stood at the corner of the National Gallery
-for many years, and has probably talked more country boys into Her
-Majesty’s service, consoled more weeping mothers, and cheered more
-disappointed maidens than any other man in the British army. There is no
-better place in which Sergeant Charley can operate than Trafalgar
-Square&mdash;or from which the stranger can begin London.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 397px;">
-<a href="images/ill_004.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_004.jpg" width="397" height="423" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Between Times, Leicester Square</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 584px;">
-<a href="images/ill_005.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_005.jpg" width="584" height="427" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>On Bond Street</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 139px;">
-<a href="images/ill_006.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_006.jpg" width="139" height="329" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p>The bewildering scene always reminds me of the art student I once saw
-painting it from the steps of the gallery; and I thought then that if
-the actors on the great stage in front of her could have seen the
-hopeless condition of her canvas and her pale, worried face they might
-have stood still for awhile. But the panorama has never stopped, and the
-only quiet figures in Trafalgar Square are its bronze statues. There you
-will see country boys looking, with admiring envy, at the smart uniforms
-of the soldiers, and with terror at the dingy army of sandwich-men
-shuffling through the gutter carrying advertisements of hot and cold
-luncheons, Turkish baths, manicure parlors, and places of amusement,
-serving, at the same time, as awful examples of what will happen to all
-those who do not take the sergeant’s advice and become soldiers. Even
-some of the street beggars are familiar. “The old rat-man” and his pets
-find Brighton too dull in the winter, and come up to London for the
-season, to mix once more in its streets, where all kinds of horses are
-driven by as great a variety of men, from the pedler to the
-powdered-wigged coachman. Cable-cars and trolleys would be sadly out of
-place in London, and horseless carriages would be a calamity. There
-should be no need to go faster than a horse can trot, and the best way
-of all is to walk.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 502px;">
-<a href="images/ill_007.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_007.jpg" width="502" height="434" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Sergeant Charley</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 193px;">
-<a href="images/ill_008.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_008.jpg" width="193" height="422" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p>You can stand on a bridge while scows drift slowly under you, and St.
-Paul’s sinks into the smoke and darkness, like the dissolving views at a
-lecture on travel. It is quite proper that the underground railway
-should be used mostly for advertising purposes; but the most gaudy
-posters fail to brighten up those dingy tunnels, and no amount of speed
-can compensate for the time you are away from the world over your head.
-London is not a place to go under.</p>
-
-<p>There is no reason to be lonely. No one ever knows London, and before
-you have been there long you are showing Londoners about their own city
-with the pride of a part owner in its history; for, to an American, the
-old part of the city is his&mdash;as much so as the portraits of his
-ancestors. The pictures may not be on his walls, but he stands as good a
-chance of being like their originals as the man who owns the house in
-which they hang.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 321px;">
-<a href="images/ill_009.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_009.jpg" width="321" height="417" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Hyde Park Corner</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a name="LONDON_AUDIENCES" id="LONDON_AUDIENCES"></a></h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter1" style="width: 499px;">
-<a href="images/ill_010.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_010.jpg" width="499" height="185" alt="LONDON AUDIENCES" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">N</span>OWHERE is caste more noticeable than in a London audience. A little
-board fence divides the ground-floor of a theatre into orchestra stalls
-and a pit. It would cost you ten shillings less and your social position
-to sit on the wrong side of this fence. It does not follow that sitting
-on the right side of it assures your position. But it does give you an
-uninterrupted view of the stage. No hats are worn, and that alone makes
-it worth extra charge. There is, in most of the theatres, room for your
-knees, and in some, additional room for the man who goes out between the
-acts, and people who arrive after the curtain is up. A London audience
-is brilliant. Everyone is in evening dress, and the audience is often
-more entertaining than the play. This is especially true on a first
-night. At such times the pit is watched most anxiously by the
-management, as the success of the piece generally depends on their
-verdict. It has often occurred to me, when I have seen them on a stormy
-night forming a line on the pavement outside the pit entrance, taking it
-all seriously enough to stand there for hours before the doors were
-opened, that by letting them inside the management might improve their
-spirits, and they in their turn might be more gentle.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 495px;">
-<a href="images/ill_011.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_011.jpg" width="495" height="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Outside the Pit Entrance</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>And it has also occurred to me that the management might further improve
-the spirits of their audience by doing away with women ushers, and by
-selling the programme at the same time they sell the seat; for it is
-hardly fair to the first act of a play to make it overcome the
-fretfulness caused by annoying attendants before it can hope to amuse.
-But the second act is sure to have a fair start, and if the play is good
-from there on, it will have no reason to complain of the audience.</p>
-
-<p>An Englishman’s memory begins with a pantomime. A Drury Lane audience
-easily explains this, as a large portion of it is composed of children.
-This is just as it should be. The only mistake is that each year the
-clown and pantaloon have less to do. Last winter they only appeared in
-front of the drop curtain, and had difficulty in entertaining the
-audience until the next scene had been set. It is strange that this
-should happen among people who are naturally so true to old friends. In
-the place of harlequin’s tricks they have the aërial ballets and
-electrical effects, and altogether a performance that can be done just
-as well at the Empire or the Alhambra. This is dangerous, for it might
-in time change the character of a pantomime audience.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 595px;">
-<a href="images/ill_012.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_012.jpg" width="595" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>A First Night</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 209px;">
-<a href="images/ill_013.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_013.jpg" width="209" height="251" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Small Wigs and Big Fees</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 510px;">
-<a href="images/ill_014.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_014.jpg" width="510" height="332" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>In the Lord Chief Justice’s Court</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 355px;">
-<a href="images/ill_015.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_015.jpg" width="355" height="431" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p>A fancy dress-ball in London is slow. The general orders are, “keep
-moving along.” The man who manages the search-light, from one of the top
-boxes, probably enjoys the ball the most. He certainly does more to help
-it. The centre of interest is wherever he will have it. He can make a
-dull costume bright, and a supper-party in one of the boxes proud; and
-he can almost remove the gloom caused by the officials in black.</p>
-
-<p>The greatest variety of expressions are to be seen in the audiences that
-come together at the law courts. There is the never-changing face of the
-judge, and the ever-changing face of the witness rocking from side to
-side in his box, and there are the black-robed barristers with small
-wigs and big fees, and pale law students crowding in at the doors and
-filling the passage-ways; and in front of the long table that is covered
-with papers and high hats sit those most interested in what is going
-on&mdash;care-worn parents and women thickly veiled.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 526px;">
-<a href="images/ill_016.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_016.jpg" width="526" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>In the “Whispering Gallery”</i>&mdash;A Small Loan</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The most interesting place of amusement for men is the National Sporting
-Club. Every Monday night during the winter the sports of London meet
-there in the same building that Colonel Newcome and his son once left
-because they objected to Captain Costigan’s song. The Colonel would be
-more amused there now, well-trained and scientific boxers from all the
-world meet in a roped-in square, surrounded by an orderly crowd of
-stock-brokers, bankers, and miscellaneous sporting characters, who wait
-for the best man to win. Then they adjourn to a front room, and around
-the bar and little tables they talk about by-gone fights and the men and
-horses whose pictures cover the wall. Some find their way to the Strand,
-where, in a supper-room called Marble Halls, every variety of sport in
-all stages of luck, and actors from the neighboring theatres, discuss
-the fight of the evening round by round.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 411px;">
-<a href="images/ill_017.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_017.jpg" width="411" height="626" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>At the National Sporting Club</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>A Music Hall audience is the most demonstrative and amusing. It will
-applaud the longest, hiss the loudest, and sometimes join in the chorus.
-From the moment the numbers are posted announcing the next turn, it is
-easy to tell what the performer’s reception will be. On both sides of
-the orchestra are bars, and when a London barmaid stops work to listen
-and laugh you may be sure that the turn is a good one. Last winter they
-paid Dan Leno this compliment. The air is filled with tobacco-smoke, and
-the calcium-light, on its way from the gallery to the stage, looks like
-a sunbeam in a dusty hayloft.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 592px;">
-<a href="images/ill_018.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_018.jpg" width="592" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>At the Pavilion</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a name="LONDON_PARKS" id="LONDON_PARKS"></a></h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter2"><a href="images/ill_019.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_019.jpg" width="519"
-height="340" alt="LONDON PARKS" /></a><br />
-</div>
-
-<div class="captionr"><p>
-<i>A Sidewalk Artist</i></p></div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE first and most natural question asked of any city is “Show us your
-people.” In answer to this, London may safely begin by pointing to its
-parks, and especially so on any Sunday during the season, for on that
-day you can best see how caste has assorted and parcelled the city off
-into so many exhibits, as carefully arranged as the specimens in the
-British Museum.</p>
-
-<p>The walks in Hyde Park have their special social value, as much so as
-the walks in life; and in the park or in life, whichever path an
-Englishman uses, it is safe to suppose that his ancestors walked there
-before him. The parks of London are handy. From a Piccadilly club window
-can be seen sheep enough to fill a barn-yard, and a stone’s throw from
-the Horse Guards is St. James’s Park with its duck island, where all
-kinds of rare birds flock together; and their relatives in far-away
-countries are no better fed than these happy exiles in the heart of the
-great city, and the peacocks that ornament the banks of the Serpentine
-are as happy as the boys who sail the toy-boats on that toy river.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 673px;">
-<a href="images/ill_020.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_020.jpg" width="673" height="462" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Sunday Morning near Stanhope Gate</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Sunday is Hyde Park’s day “At Home,” and in the shape of a blue sky she
-sends her invitation to all London, and her popularity is easily shown
-by the number and variety of her friends. By long odds the best-looking
-exhibit is to be seen during church-parade. It extends from Hyde Park
-Corner to Stanhope Gate, and consists of the well-to-do, most of whom
-probably first came to the park with their nurses and a little later
-with their tutors, and they now come grown up and with white hair to pay
-their respects to the good doctor of their childhood. They form what is
-distinctly a Sunday gathering, and one as serious as a wedding. Seldom a
-loud voice is heard. There is a feeling of rest throughout the whole
-scene, and it is impossible to be there without entering into the spirit
-of it. In the solemn throng that pass and repass I have seen a noisy
-steamer acquaintance thoroughly subdued and looking like an undertaker
-in a long coat and high hat. Everyone else seemed to have been there
-from childhood. The old gentleman in the Row undoubtedly first appeared
-there on Shetland ponies under the watchful eye of the groom. It is not
-a thing to tire of, and Sunday after Sunday these well-dressed people
-attend church-parade as seriously as they attend church. A little
-farther into the park are the shopkeepers and domestics listening to the
-band. Here you are likely to meet the real estate agent and tailor with
-whom you have already had dealings. They are a distinct class, and very
-different from the first exhibit. They keep their frock-coats carefully
-buttoned, and are apparently not so much at their ease.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 109px;">
-<a href="images/ill_021.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_021.jpg" width="109" height="373" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>HAMLET</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 576px;">
-<a href="images/ill_022.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_022.jpg" width="576" height="413" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>A Constitutional in the Park</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 402px;">
-<a href="images/ill_023.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_023.jpg" width="402" height="427" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>In the Row</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 149px;">
-<a href="images/ill_024.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_024.jpg" width="149" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>A Park Orator</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Separated from these people by another social gulf, and toward Marble
-Arch, are the unemployed listening to the park actors and park orators.
-If you are tall enough to look over the heads of an English crowd you
-will see in some of these groups strolling players at work. In the
-centre of one group a short, red-faced park orator declares that a Prime
-Minister has robbed him.</p>
-
-<p>The farther away from these shady paths the sadder London is. Among them
-foreigners feel at home. Little home-sick law students from India may
-mope in Piccadilly, but in Hyde Park they look happy. Once there the
-British soldier is no longer war-like; he becomes helpless and happy,
-surrounded by nature and under the influence of some pink-cheeked
-domestic.</p>
-
-<p>In the early part of the day the parks are occupied by very young
-people; the visitors become older with the day. The nurses and their
-charges leave, and evening finds an old lady leaning on her husband’s
-arm, walking slowly along their favorite path, while their carriage
-follows at a little distance. And as night comes on they roll back into
-the great city among the never-ceasing tread of feet, past the side-walk
-artist sitting by his pictures on the pavement, looking anxiously at the
-passers-by&mdash;and the park’s day is done&mdash;a curtain of darkness falls on
-the great stage; the peacocks go to roost in its trees; the ducks are
-undisturbed by wet dogs, and the Serpentine’s small fish are no longer
-in danger of bent pins; and the park, London’s kind friend and good
-physician, is resting.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 671px;">
-<a href="images/ill_025.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_025.jpg" width="671" height="439" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Church Parade</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 206px;">
-<a href="images/ill_026.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_026.jpg" width="206" height="142" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>After Hours</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a name="A_DRAWING-ROOM" id="A_DRAWING-ROOM"></a></h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter1" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_027.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_027.jpg" width="600" height="409" alt="A DRAWING-ROOM" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">O</span>N March 11, 1896, the first Drawing-room of that year was held at
-Buckingham Palace. Through the courtesy of the Lord Chamberlain I was
-given the entree to the palace on that day. As a Drawing-room is
-strictly a feminine affair, it matters very little what a man may think
-about it, for the line points of social advantages and the costly
-costumes he seldom understands. Apart from the foreign ambassadors,
-members of the Cabinet and attendants, men are not wanted and are seldom
-seen. Women go in hundreds, and sit for hours in carriages, extending in
-long rows down the Mall, while a crowd of curious idlers stare in at the
-carriage windows, making audible personal remarks. At two o’clock the
-palace gates are open, and the waiting continues in the different rooms
-above stairs.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 596px;">
-<a href="images/ill_028.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_028.jpg" width="596" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Waiting</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 256px;">
-<a href="images/ill_029.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_029.jpg" width="256" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>A Barrier</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 573px;">
-<a href="images/ill_030.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_030.jpg" width="573" height="415" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>After Presentation</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">These rooms are divided by barriers, guarded by gentlemen of the
-household, which prevents over-crowding. It is an extraordinary sight to
-see room after room filled with nervous young girls and their more
-composed mothers sitting in the unbecoming light of an afternoon sun,
-with white plumes in their hair and the family jewels on their necks.
-With the exception of a now and then whispered conversation, everything
-is quiet until the barriers leading into the next room are opened; then
-a rush follows and small pieces of lace, spangles, flowers, and ostrich
-feathers are left on the floor. Mothers and daughters are separated.
-After the confusion of finding each other, all is quiet for another
-thirty minutes, when a rush for a better place in the next room begins.
-A retired Colonel, the guardian of a barrier, noticing my interest and
-my evening dress, asked me if I did not think it looked like an ostrich
-farm. He pointed out his wife to me, and said a French hairdresser had
-been at his house all that morning. The Colonel’s pretty wife looked it.
-From there I crossed the ambassadors’ room and the picture-gallery,
-where the people who have the entree wait, and entered the throne-room.
-At that time there were three men in it; two of them, gentlemen of the
-household, were standing on either side of the door. One of them told me
-that the young officer with a bearskin hat on his arm, standing by a
-long window overlooking the central court, was there to signal to the
-band outside when the royal family entered, in order that they might
-know when to play “God Save the Queen.” He also motioned with his head
-toward a small door in one corner of the big red room, and said through
-it the royal party would enter. I asked the same gentleman why
-Drawing-rooms were not held in the evening. He said he did not know. At
-this time the Prime-Minister, in a dark uniform with a blue ribbon
-across his breast, entered the room, followed by Court dignitaries,
-gentlemen ushers, and the Lord Chamberlain with his staff of office.
-Then the little door opened, and while the band played “God Save the
-Queen,” the Princess of Wales and the royal party filed in. Then there
-was a low bow on both sides; the Lord Chamberlain took his position by
-the Princess of Wales, and read from the cards handed him by the ushers
-the names of those who were being presented.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 666px;">
-<a href="images/ill_031.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_031.jpg" width="666" height="434" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p>After the ambassadors and their wives came those having the entree;
-after them those without. The white procession had started, and the
-Drawing-room that had been rehearsed and looked forward to for years, as
-far as each individual’s part in it was concerned, was soon over. At the
-end of two hours there was another low bow, and the royal family filed
-back through the little door. The bustle and waiting was transferred to
-the grand hall below, where little olive-skinned Indian ladies of high
-birth, and famous English beauties whose photographs could be bought on
-Piccadilly, stood side by side until their carriages stopped the way.
-Mothers and daughters passed between rows of Yeomen of the Guard to the
-door, daylight, and the photographers; finally home, where tea is
-arranged, and friends are gathered to hear about it.</p>
-
-<p>I had a second opportunity to see a Drawing-room, and I am of the
-impression that they must be very much alike.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 107px;">
-<a href="images/ill_032.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_032.jpg" width="107" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>A Gentleman at Arms</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 592px;">
-<a href="images/ill_033.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_033.jpg" width="592" height="433" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>A Drawing-room Tea</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a name="LONDON_SALONS" id="LONDON_SALONS"></a></h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter2" style="width: 498px;">
-<a href="images/ill_034.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_034.jpg" width="498" height="344" alt="LONDON SALONS" /></a>
-</div>
-<div class="captionl"><p><i>An Early Departure</i></p></div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE “season” begins about the time Parliament opens, and Parliament’s
-opening and closing depends more or less on fox-hunting and
-grouse-shooting. As the “season” approaches, town-houses are opened and
-“green” servants are broken in; secretaries busy themselves with lists
-and stationery, and the winter campaign begins immediately upon the
-family’s return to town. As a London house is seldom needed for more
-than the formal entertainments of a season, it is in most cases hired;
-consequently, it is seldom attractive. Acquaintances are entertained in
-the city, and friends are taken into the country to spend the week’s end
-on the family estate, surrounded by the household gods and the most
-attractive side of all England. There the future members of the House of
-Lords, and the belles of some future Drawing-room, ride donkeys, and the
-older people ride wheels and sit under English oaks and make little
-water-color sketches, and it is easily seen why only social duties take
-them to London.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 634px;">
-<a href="images/ill_035.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_035.jpg" width="634" height="379" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Distinguished Guests</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>By eight o’clock in the evening almost every other house that you see
-will have a little red carpet stretching from its door to the curb, and
-in some cases a temporary awning over it. The streets seem to be given
-over entirely to carriages and hansoms carrying people to dinner. When
-the last guest has arrived the carpet is taken in until later on, when
-it again rolls back down the steps and across the pavement, between two
-lines of footmen, while the butler whistles for hansoms, and half of
-fashionable London goes to its own house, its club, or its lodgings. A
-Member of Parliament, during a short recess, will leave the House and
-drive miles to a dinner. He may arrive thirty minutes late, or leave
-before the dinner is half over. A Quartermaster-General will leave the
-War Office an hour earlier, because he has promised to go bicycling with
-some young people, and an Editor will leave his paper and accompany his
-wife to a tea.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 568px;">
-<a href="images/ill_036.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_036.jpg" width="568" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>After Dinner</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 334px;">
-<a href="images/ill_037.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_037.jpg" width="334" height="186" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 468px;">
-<a href="images/ill_038.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_038.jpg" width="468" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>At Dinner</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>This interest in all things gives English people time for everything.</p>
-
-<p>A London reception is bright and amusing. In the early part of the
-evening statesmen, diplomats, and older people are in the majority; at
-eleven o’clock those who have been to the play arrive, and a little
-later the actors themselves. From the staircase people can best be seen.
-It is always crowded by those who are on their way to pay respects to
-the hostess in the hall above, and by those who have already done so and
-are on their way down to the supper-room. Above and below a dense crowd
-elbow and talk around and through you. You are slowly twisted past your
-hostess and through the parlors, and then finally back to the staircase,
-down which you can go as slowly as you please. No one is in a hurry&mdash;so
-out into the early morning, between rows of uniformed coachmen standing
-like sentries sleeping on their post.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 661px;">
-<a href="images/ill_039.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_039.jpg" width="661" height="420" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Your Hostess</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a name="LONDON_PEOPLE" id="LONDON_PEOPLE"></a>LONDON PEOPLE</h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter1" style="width: 561px;">
-<a href="images/ill_040.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_040.jpg" width="561" height="241" alt="LONDON PEOPLE" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">O</span>NCE upon a time, judging by John Leech’s pictures of English women (who
-could do almost everything in those days but manage their hoop-skirts),
-they were all short and became instantly stout when they arrived at
-forty. If Leech was right, English women must have changed very much
-since then. It may be that they grew tall to more closely resemble Du
-Maurier’s goddesses. In many cases they have succeeded, as may be seen
-at Lord’s or at any fashionable race-course. There may not be a variety
-of good looks, but one type is very beautiful. So strong is the family
-likeness, they might all be handsome sisters. There was something very
-sweet and lovable about that plump little woman of Mr. Leech’s. I only
-met her in reality after she had grown into a sweet old lady, and I
-should have regretted not having seen her before had I not seen her tall
-granddaughters.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 604px;">
-<a href="images/ill_041.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_041.jpg" width="604" height="446" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Patiently Listening</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft">
-<a href="images/ill_042.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_042.jpg" width="354" height="380" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p>The fact that Phil May is a prophet in his own country should alone
-clear Englishmen of the suspicion that they are slow to see fun. On an
-Englishman’s love of fair play and good sport no suspicion has ever
-rested. It is the most attractive thing about him, and it is only
-natural that the greatest assortment of good-natured people are to be
-found at the Derby. I had already met them in May’s drawings, and I was
-prepared to find the good-nature contagious. Last year a party on a
-coach opposite the Royal box and a policeman, who looked after that
-particular part of the course, drank champagne out of the same bottle.
-When the Prince of Wales came down to lead Persimmon off the track,
-short men stood on boxes and balanced themselves by holding on to
-whoever stood next to them. Gypsy fortune-tellers and painted-faced
-minstrels climbed on the backs of coaches. Everyone shouted together and
-probably wished that the Prince had been a little taller, so that they
-might all have seen him.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 603px;">
-<a href="images/ill_043.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_043.jpg" width="603" height="451" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>At the Savoy</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 315px;">
-<a href="images/ill_044.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_044.jpg" width="315" height="424" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>Phil May</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;">
-<a href="images/ill_045.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_045.jpg" width="349" height="437" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>George du Maurier</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 187px;">
-<a href="images/ill_046.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_046.jpg" width="187" height="263" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p>English-speaking people have been introduced to each other by a long
-line of clever draughtsmen. They have laughed together about the same
-people in the truest and sweetest-natured way in all the world. Above
-all others, one hand awakened the interest resulting in people knowing
-themselves and others better. The beautiful was safe in that gentle
-hand. Although the heart that guided it no longer beats, the human
-interest and kindly feeling that it awakened will live forever, and all
-the world has placed among the foremost men of his day the
-affectionately remembered name of George Du Maurier.</p>
-
-<p>These drawings were made among the most hospitable people I ever met.
-When I have failed, it has not been owing to a lack of interest, but
-more likely on account of a consciousness that my results would fall
-short of my desires. The disappointments following the completion of a
-drawing made from a beautiful woman are many. In these portraits I have
-the most to regret.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 626px;">
-<a href="images/ill_047.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_047.jpg" width="626" height="387" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p><i>The Queen</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;">
-<a href="images/ill_048.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_048.jpg" width="327" height="421" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
-<img src="images/back.jpg" width="550" height="368" alt="[Image unavailable.]" />
-</div>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of London as seen by Charles Dana Gibson, by
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