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diff --git a/old/62646-0.txt b/old/62646-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index daf9816..0000000 --- a/old/62646-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2622 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Lady's Knitting-Book, by Elvina M. Corbould - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: The Lady's Knitting-Book - Containing eighty clear and easy patterns of useful and - ornamental knitting - -Author: Elvina M. Corbould - -Release Date: July 14, 2020 [EBook #62646] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADY'S KNITTING-BOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -THE LADY’S KNITTING-BOOK. - - - - -THE -LADY’S KNITTING-BOOK. - - -BY -E. M. C. -AUTHOR OF ‘THE LADY’S CROCHET-BOOK.’ - -CONTAINING EIGHTY CLEAR AND EASY PATTERNS -OF USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL -KNITTING. - -Second Edition, revised and enlarged. - -LONDON: -HATCHARDS, PICCADILLY. -1874. - - - - -LONDON -JOHN STRANGEWAYS, PRINTER, -Castle St. Leicester Sq. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - Antimacassar 35 - ” Persian 36 - ” Lattice Pattern 52 - Arrow Pattern in Stripes 49 - Baby’s Boot, very pretty 20 - ” very easy pattern 24 - ” Berceaunette Cover 38 - ” Quilt, very pretty 39 - ” Jacket 59 - ” Hood 62 - Bodice 57 - Brioche Knitting 55 - Cable Knitting 49 - Canadian Cloud 47 - Carriage Rug 36 - Comforters, to cost 2s. 25 - Couvrette, or Couvre-pied 35 - Double Knitting 24 - ” with Four Pins 25 - Explanations 9 - Fancy Stitches 53 - Fringe in Cotton 40 - ” Wool 41 - Gaiter 60 - General Remarks 10 - Gentleman’s Waistcoat, medium size 27 - ” Waistcoat, larger or smaller 27 - Hearth-Rug 39 - Heel of a Stocking or Sock 11 - Knee Cap 62 - Lattice Pattern 52 - Loop Knitting 40 - Muffatee, Ermine 28 - ” Lady’s 28 - ” Gentleman’s, with Thumb 28 - Night or Carriage Sock 26 - Pence Jug, Etruscan shape 32 - ” long shape 33 - ” on two pins 34 - Petticoat 41, 42 - Purse 29, 30 - Quilt 39 - ” in cotton, a common one 42 - ” Laurel-leaf Pattern 43 - ” Maltese Pattern 45 - Raised Plait-knitting 36 - Round Sofa Cushion 61 - Rose-bud Pattern 47, 48 - Shetland Shawl 32 - Silk Stocking, Lady’s 15 - ” ” striped 13 - ” ” white evening 13 - ” ” winter 15 - ” Gentleman’s 14 - ” ” evening 16 - Sock for Boy of Twelve 17 - ” ” another pattern 17 - ” ” of Fifteen 18 - ” for a Child of Two 15 - ” a Night or Carriage 26 - ” easy 17 - ” Gentleman’s evening, average size 14 - ” ” large size 19 - ” ” ribbed, small size 19 - Stockings and Socks 9 - Stocking, Gentleman’s Shooting 19 - ” ” Knickerbocker 16 - ” for a Girl of Fourteen 18 - ” for a Boy or Girl of Eight 19 - To Decrease for the Toe, &c. 12 - ” for Instep 12 - Vest, or Jersey 30 - Waistcoat 27 - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -In sending this little work before the public, I have tried to remedy -one fault which I have often heard complained of, namely, that -knitting-books generally give so many more stitches than are really -required. This is partly owing to the different qualities of wool used -by different knitters, and partly also, to a certain extent, whether -the worker knits loosely or tightly. The following directions are for -medium knitters. As knitting sometimes shrinks in the washing, I should -advise my readers to try and knit moderately loose. But, of course, -the principal thing is to have the same sized wool or silk as that for -which the directions are given; and this is especially important in -socks and stockings. I will therefore state that Charity wheeling is -the thickest and most harsh kind of yarn made; Scotch wheeling is a -trifle less coarse. Scotch fingering is the usual yarn sold for socks -and gentlemen’s stockings: it ought to be very strong, and to appear -about the same size as Berlin. If it looks finer (and some does) put -on more stitches than are given. For couvrettes, and things of that -kind, the size of the wool and pins is, of course, a matter of less -importance, as it does not signify whether the work is a trifle larger -or smaller than intended; but in stockings, a slight thing makes a good -deal of difference in the fit. - -I have also endeavoured to explain everything at full length, so as to -enable inexperienced knitters to find out the patterns by themselves; -the cost of each article is put, whenever possible, at the head of the -pattern. - - - - -EXPLANATIONS. - - -‘To purl or pearl’ and ‘to seam’ mean the same thing; that is, to put -the wool round the right-hand needle. Thus: the wool hangs straight -down, it must be lifted and placed round the needle from right to left. -You must then insert the right-hand needle into the stitch, exactly the -opposite way as in ordinary knitting. - -‘To decrease’ is simply to knit two stitches together. Another way is -to slip a stitch, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over it. - -‘To take two together’ means to knit two together. - -‘To increase,’ you must knit both into the lower part of the stitch, -and also into the stitch itself. - - - - -_Stockings and Socks._ - - -The directions given for silk stockings are worked with Adams and Co.’s -silk, 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E. It is very good, and of -lovely colours. Patterns are sent free, and all orders can be sent by -post. Any uncommon shade can be dyed to order, provided it be not for -less than 1 lb. of silk. - -The prices are as follow:—Imperial knitting-silk, the best quality, any -colour, 3s. per 2 oz. skein. Filoselle, any colour, 2s. per oz., or 3d. -per skein of 15 yards. Embroidery silk, 1s. 6d. per oz. Knitting-pins, -2d. per set of four. These knitting-silks are guaranteed fast colours, -and are beautifully bright and soft. - -Those of my readers who prefer a coarser knitting-silk will be glad to -hear that Mr. Adams is now making some. - - - - -_General Remarks on Socks and Stockings._ - - -For a lady’s stocking it is best to decrease once and increase three -times for the calf of the leg. For a gentleman’s this is unnecessary. -Most of these directions are for ribbed stockings, as they fit so much -better; but if preferred plain, of course the same number of stitches -is required. - -You must always remember in ribbed stockings to carry on the ribs and -seam-stitches all down the back of the heel, until you begin to round -it. The ribs on the front of the foot must be continued straight on, -until within an inch of the decreasing for the toe. - -The seam-stitch is made by knitting a certain stitch in two rounds and -pearling it in the third. - -Before decreasing for the instep, do two or three plain rounds and then -begin. - -The ‘flap,’ or heel before it is rounded, ought to be three inches, or -even more, as a long heel wears better. It also makes it much stronger -to knit it double with Angola wool, of the same colour as the knitting; -it can be bought at any linen-draper’s on wooden reels for 2d. One reel -does a pair. - -Except for young boys, socks fit quite well without being decreased at -all for the ankle; therefore I only give one pattern on the decreasing -principle. - -With silk stockings the size of pins is important. - - - - -_Heel of a Stocking or Sock._ - - -To inexperienced knitters the heel seems to present mountains of -difficulty, but in reality the mountain is but a mole-hill after all. -The following pattern is one of the best. - -Divide your stitches. We will say you have 50 altogether, on three -needles: take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch, and knit these 25 -backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds (making the seam-stitch all -the same); you must pearl backwards, so as to keep the knitting even. -Continue until you have made a flap about three inches long, always -slipping the first knitted stitch. Now knit, from the right-hand side, -the 12 stitches; then the seam-stitch, which from this time forward -you cease to make. Knit 4 stitches beyond it; knit 2 together; knit 1; -turn, pearl until you get to 4 beyond the seam-stitch, pearl 2 -together, pearl 1, turn. Knit until you come to the stitch in the -previous row where you turned—you may know it easily by the little hole -which was formed by the turning; you now knit 2 together and knit one -more stitch, then turn. Pearl the next row, of course always pearling 2 -together where the little hole has been left, and so on until you have -gradually worked off the stitches. You then pick up the side-stitches -of this flap and the heel is finished. - - - - -_To Decrease for the Toe of a Sock or Stocking._ - - -Put half your stitches on one needle, a quarter on the second, and a -quarter on the third needle. Thus: suppose you have 60 stitches, you -must have 30 on one side and 15 on the other two. The 30 must be the -front or ribbed part, the two pins with 15 stitches on them ought to -be the sole part. In doubling your knitting now, the front part ought -to lie evenly on the sole of the foot. Begin to knit the 30 stitches; -knit 27, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. Now -begin the next pin; knit 1, knit 2 together. Continue plain knitting. -Now begin the 3rd pin; knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch -over, knit 1. Now you begin again on the 30. Knit 1, knit 2 together. -Continue plain. Do two rounds plain, and then decrease again in the -same manner 4 stitches in every round, leaving always 2 stitches -between the decreasing, remembering always to do two rounds of plain -knitting between each decreasing round. - -Repeat for two inches and cast off. - -Some people only do one round between the decreasing: this plan makes -the toe rounder and more puckered. - - - - -_Decreasing for Instep._ - - -On the right-hand side of the heel, just where the ribs leave off, you -slip 1, knit 1; pass the slipped stitch over; continue plain knitting; -and where the ribs begin again you knit 2 together. You must remember -that on the right side of the heel you slip, and on the left that you -knit 2 together. - - - - -_Lady’s Striped Silk Stocking._ - -(MEDIUM SIZE.) - - -2 oz. black and 2 oz. rose-coloured Imperial knitting-silk. Pins, No. -17. - -Cast on 128 stitches in black, do 12 rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now -make the first stitch the seam-stitch, and do plain knitting until 4 -inches are done, making the stripes come quite evenly, one inch broad. -When you have once joined the rose-coloured, let the black thread hang -down inside the seam-stitch; do not break off every time you change -colour, which must always take place at the seam-stitch. Now do 3 plain -and 1 pearl alternately. When 5½ inches are done decrease on each -side of the seam-stitch. Do * 7 more rows and increase. Repeat from * -twice more. When 12 inches are done decrease for the ankle every five -rows until you have 92 stitches. Knit until the stocking is 20 inches -long, and then divide for the heel. Proceed as on page 10; pick up the -side-stitches, and decrease over the instep until you have 90 stitches: -the front ribs must be carried on evenly, but the sole is left plain. -When the foot is 7 inches long discontinue ribbing. Knit 9 rounds -plain, and then decrease (see page 12). The foot must be 9¼ inches -long. Cast off and sew up carefully on the wrong side. - - - - -_Lady’s White Silk Evening Stocking._ - - -Proceed as in the former pattern, with 128 stitches, in the finest -kind of silk. Plain silk stockings are the easiest to knit, but when -finished the striped ones are very pretty, especially when worn to -match the dress, with low shoes. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Evening Silk Sock._ - -(AVERAGE SIZE.) - - -Cast on 108 stitches. Rib by doing 1 plain, 1 pearl. When 3 inches are -done, do 3 plain and 1 pearl for 8½ inches. Turn the heel as on page -11. Decrease at the instep to 96. Carry on the ribs in the front part, -but let the sole be plain; when 8 inches are done leave off ribbing and -do 8 plain rounds. Decrease as on page 12, and when the foot is 10¼ -inches long, cast off and sew up. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Silk Stocking._ - - -The following pattern is in stripes of black and blue, but it will do -equally well plain. 2 oz. blue and 2 oz. black Imperial knitting-silk. -Pins, No. 17. If coarser silk is used, knit with pins No. 16 and cast -on 128. - -Cast on 138 stitches in black, and proceed exactly the same as with -Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stockings, page 16. Measure an inch of each -coloured knitting alternately: it is better to measure than to count -the rows, as silk is apt to be unequal. The ankle ought to be 100 -stitches. Knit a flap 3 inches long for the heel, turn it, pick up -the side-stitches, and decrease at the instep to 98. After the first -joining of the black and blue, pass the colour you are not using at -the back; always change the colour at the seam-stitch: in that way you -need not break off the silk when you have finished a stripe, but keep -on with both balls, so as to join the silk only once. The remainder as -page 16. - - - - -_Lady’s Silk Stocking._ - - -Knitted with Adams and Co.’s thickest knitting-silk and 4 pins, No. 16. - -Cast on 120, knit a plain round. Knit 2 pearl, 2 plain, for 8 rounds, -and now begin to knit plain, making the first stitch the seam-stitch. -In this stocking you need not increase for the calf, unless you wish to -make it a larger size. If you rib the stocking, begin when 4 inches of -plain knitting are done; knit (or pearl) the seam-stitch, * pearl 1, -knit 3; continue from *. When 12 inches are knitted decrease every 5th -row until you have only 84 stitches on your pins. When the stocking is -20 inches long divide for the heel, by taking 21 on each side of the -seam-stitch. Knit the heel as on page 11. Pick up the side-stitches, -and reduce over the instep to 80. Make the foot 9 inches long, reducing -for the toe as on page 12. - - - - -_Lady’s Winter Stocking._ - - -Pins, No. 15. 1 lb. merino makes several pairs. - -Cast on 116 stitches. - -With Berlin fingering-wool only cast on 98, and proceed as with Girl’s -Stocking, page 19. - - - - -_Sock for a Child of Two Years Old._ - - -In merino yarn and pins No. 17. - -Cast on 23 on the first pin, 22 on the second, and 20 on the third. -Knit a plain round, keeping the first stitch as the seam-stitch. Do -ten rounds in ribs of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now do plain knitting, and -decrease twice in every fourth round for 12 rounds. Knit 10 rounds. -Take 14 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, knit backwards -and forwards for 20 rows; turn (see page 11). Take up 10 side-stitches, -and reduce until you have 56 for the foot. Do 26 rounds, decrease, and -cast off. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stocking._ - - -Pins, No. 15, and 11 skeins of best Scotch fingering-yarn. - -This is the largest size, suitable for a gentleman of six feet in -height. - -Cast on 112, 37 on two pins and 38 on the third pin. Rib for about an -inch by doing 1 plain and 1 pearl, remembering to have the first stitch -on the first needle as the seam-stitch. You make this, by working it -plain in 2 successive rounds and pearling it in the next. Then do -plain knitting for 5 inches. You now begin to rib as follows:—Knit -or pearl the seam-stitch, knit 3 and pearl 1. Continue to knit 3 and -pearl 1 every row until 12½ inches are done. Then begin to decrease -every 8 rows. You decrease on the right-hand side of the seam-stitch -by slipping a stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Work the -seam-stitch and knit 2 together. If the stitch to be slipped happens to -be a pearl stitch, you must not slip it but merely pearl two together -on both sides. You will thus decrease 16 stitches, and now 16½ inches -ought to be done. Then knit 5 more inches. You ought now to have 94 -stitches for the ankle and divide for the heel. Proceed for this as on -page 11; but as this is a large size, you must make the flap 3½ long, -always slipping the first stitch. When you have turned the heel you -must take up 21 stitches, and decrease for the instep at first every -row; and the last 6 decreasings do every other row until you have only -92 stitches. When 9 inches of the foot are done (measuring the whole of -the heel as well), you begin to decrease for the toe, which takes up 2 -more inches; you then cast off, and sew up the toe on the wrong side. - - - - -_Sock for a Boy of Twelve._ - -(SUITABLE FOR POOR PEOPLE.) - - -Charity yarn, 3s. 6d. per lb. This yarn can only be bought by the lb. -Pins, 14 or 15. - -Cast on 56, 20 on two pins, and 16 on the third. Knit 3, pearl 3, -alternately: make a seam-stitch. Rib in this way for an inch. Decrease -on each side of the seam-stitch. Do 7 more rows, decrease again. Rib -the sock for about 3 inches, 1 row plain, and decrease again. You must -now decrease again every 6 rows, when you ought to have 38 stitches. - -For the heel, take 9 on each side of the seam-stitch, and pearl and -knit until 3 inches are done. Turn and take up the side-stitches. -Decrease every row until you have only 38. When the foot is 8 inches -long decrease for the toe and cast off. - - - - -_Boy’s Sock._ - -(ANOTHER GOOD PATTERN, VERY EASY.) - - -Knitted in charity yarn or wheeling-yarn. - -Cast on 48, rib in 2 and 2 alternate, plain and pearl stitches. Rib 3 -inches, and do the rest in plain knitting until 8 inches are done. Take -12 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, continue as on page -11. Pick up the side-stitches, decrease for the instep until you have -38 stitches, or until the foot measures 8 inches in breadth; that is, 4 -when doubled. When the foot is 8 inches long decrease for the toe. Make -the foot altogether 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up. This pattern, -which is very easy and without any decreasings at all, fits exactly. - - - - -_For a Boy of Fifteen, in Scotch Wheeling-yarn._ - - -Cast on 54. Proceed as in above pattern, without any decreasings, until -you come to the heel. Divide your stitches, knit a flap of 3 inches, -turn your heel, reduce for the instep until you have 48 stitches. Make -the foot 8 inches long, decrease until the foot is 10 inches altogether -in length. Cast off and sew up. This wool is so thick and strong that -it is hardly necessary to do the heels and toes double with Angola. - - - - -_Stocking for a Girl of Fourteen._ - - -Scotch wheeling-yarn—1 lb. at 4s. 3d. makes nearly 3 pairs. They are -very strong and nice for the poor. Pins, 15 or 16. - -Cast on 69. Knit 14 rounds, 2 plain, 2 pearl; make the first stitch -the seam-stitch. Then 50 plain rounds. Decrease on each side of the -seam-stitch 5 plain rounds. Increase 3 times with 5 plain rounds -between each, increasing 20 plain rounds. Decrease with 6 plain rounds -between every decreasing until you have only 53 stitches. Do 34 plain -rounds for the ankle. Divide for heel and do the flap, 29 rows. Take -up 18 stitches on each side. Reduce at the instep until you have 52 -stitches. Do the foot as in preceding pattern, except that this one -need only be 9½ inches long. - - - - -_For a Boy’s or Girl’s Stocking, about Eight Years Old. Ribbed._ - - -In white Scotch fingering-yarn. - -Cast on 80. Knit 12 rounds, 1 plain and 1 pearl. Plain knitting for 4 -inches. Rib 1, knit 3, until you have done 66 rounds. Now decrease on -each side of the seam-stitch. Knit 5 rounds and increase in the same -way. Do this twice more, and you ought now to have 84 stitches. When -11 inches are done decrease every 8 rows, and knit plain until the -stocking is 16½ inches long; then divide for heel. Knit and pearl 32 -rows, and proceed as on page 18. Pick up 16 side-stitches, and after 2 -rounds keep decreasing every row for the instep until you have only 68. -Work 7¼ inches and decrease. The foot ought to be 9¼ inches long. Cast -off and sew up. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Sock._ - -(LARGE SIZE.) - - -The same as the following pattern, but cast on 94. When you have -decreased the instep, let the foot be 92. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Ribbed Sock._ - -(SMALL SIZE.) - - -This also does for a boy from 12 to 14. - -Pins, No. 15. Grey or brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, as bought at -Haig & Vince’s, 209 Oxford Street, 6s. per lb. 1 lb. makes 4 pairs, -leaving some over; 2 lbs. make 9 pairs of socks. - -Cast on 80. One plain round; make the first stitch the seam-stitch. -Knit in ribs of 1 plain, 1 pearl, for 2½ inches. This is for the top -part. Now begin to rib in threes; 3 plain stitches, 1 pearl. Continue -thus for 8 inches, and then divide for the heel by taking 20 stitches -on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit these 21 backwards and forwards, -remembering to keep the seam-stitch and ribs even: you must, in coming -back, of course pearl 3 and knit 1. When 3 inches or 34 rows are done -you discontinue ribbing, and turn the heel as on page 11. Pick up 18 -stitches from the side, and knit the sole plain, but continue the 10 -ribs on the 2 front pins. When 2 rounds are done, decrease every round -until you have only 70 stitches; then knit until the foot is 7½ inches -long. You now discontinue ribbing. Do 8 rounds plain, and then decrease -for the toe as on page 12. This takes up 2 more inches, and your sock -ought now to be 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up. - - - - -_Baby’s Boot._ - - -This is a very pretty pattern indeed. It must be knitted on two pins, -No. 16: ½ oz. pink Andalusian and ½ oz. white are required. - -Cast on 50 stitches with the pink. - -First row—knit plain. - -Second row—knit the 3 first stitches; * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from * -until you come to the last 3 stitches, which must be knitted. - -Repeat this row twice. - -Fifth row—plain. - -Sixth row—pearl. - -Seventh row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *; -knit the last stitch. - -Eighth row—slip the first stitch, * put the wool over the needle to -increase; knit 1; repeat from *. In this way you ought to have 50 -stitches on your needles. - -Ninth row—knit every stitch. - -Tenth row—pearl every stitch. - -Eleventh row—slip 1, take 2 together; continue to knit 2 together until -you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted. - -Twelfth row—the same as eighth. - -Thirteenth row—plain knitting. - -Fourteenth row—pearl. - -Now join the white wool. Do 9 rows of ribbed knitting, but remember to -do 3 plain stitches both at the beginning and end of every row. - -Tenth row—plain knitting. - -Eleventh row—pearl. - -Twelfth row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *; -knit the last stitch. - -Thirteenth row—slip the first stitch, * pass the wool over the needle, -knit one; repeat from *. You ought now to have 50 stitches. - -Fourteenth row—plain knitting. - -Fifteenth row—pearl. - -Repeat these four rows three times, so as to have four rows of -ornamental holes. Join the pink wool. - -Sixteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together; knit -20, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together. - -Second row—knit plain. - -Third row—slip one, take 2 together; continue to knit plain until you -come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must be knitted together. - -Fourth row—plain knitting. - -Fifth row—knit 14. Join the white, knit 16; turn round and work on -those 16 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without -working them. Pearl a row, and knit a row. - -Then, slip the 1st stitch,* take 2 together; repeat from *. - -The next row slip 1, and increase before every stitch by passing the -wool over the needle: you ought now to have 16 stitches. - -Knit a row, pearl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times. - -You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Cast off the white, -and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. Pick up 11 stitches -from the side of the white flap, make 11 stitches. Knit 14 rows. - -Fifteenth row—*, slip the 1st stitch, take 2 together. This ought to be -at the toe. The rest plain. - -Sixteenth row—plain knitting. - -Seventeenth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the rest of the row being -plain knitting. - -Eighteenth row—plain. - -Nineteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together: take 2 together again; the rest -plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the end, when you knit 2 -together, the last stitch plain. - -Twentieth row—knit plain. - -Twenty-first row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again; -continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, when you knit the 5th -and 4th together; knit the 3rd and 2nd together, and the last stitch -plain. - -Twenty-second row—knit plain. - -Twenty-third row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again; -plain knitting till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which you must knit -together. - -Twenty-fourth row—plain. - -Twenty-fifth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the remainder plain. - -Twenty-sixth row—plain. - -Twenty-seventh row—slip 1, knit 2 together, the rest plain. - -Twenty-eighth row—plain, cast off. - -[Illustration] - -Pick up 11 stitches of pink at _c_ to form the toe. - -First row—knit plain. Then increase at the toe until you have 18 -stitches. Knit 3 rows plain. - -Decrease every other time at the toe, until you have only 11 stitches. -Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap _d_, still knitting with -pink wool, and take up the 14 stitches at _e_. - -Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row, and end at the 28th -row. - -This is rather a difficult pattern, but when finished quite repays one -for the trouble taken. - - - - -_Baby’s Boot._ - -(A VERY EASY PATTERN.) - - -White Berlin, and pins No. 13. - -Cast on 30; and, if speed be a desirability, the entire sock may be -done in plain knitting, but the following way is far prettier. Knit the -1st row; then do 24 rows for the leg, in any fancy stitch you like; the -last row,* knit 2, wool over the needle, take 2 together. Repeat from -*. This forms holes, into which ribbon must afterwards be run. - -Twenty-fifth row.—From this time forward you must knit 1, pearl 1; -reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice pattern. Cast on 11 -extra stitches at the end of each of the next two rows, making 52 -in all. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are 62 -stitches; do 4 plain rows; then decrease in the same way until you have -only 52 again. Cast off and sew up. Crochet a double scallop at the top -in blue Andalusian, to give a little finish. - - - - -_Double Knitting._ - - -Cast on any number of stitches. - -Knit a plain row. - -Second row—slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd in the usual manner, _but_ -put the thread twice round the needle. Then bring the thread forward as -if you were going to pearl, only _do not_ pearl, but take the stitch -off, and put the wool in front of the stitch back to its place. Then -begin again and knit a stitch with wool twice round the needle. - -Third row—knit the first stitch. Bring the wool forward, and take off -the long stitch, putting the thread down in front. Knit the short -stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle. - - - - -_Double Knitting with Four Pins._ - - -Cast on twice the number of stitches you wish to have on the right side -of the knitting. - -* Bring the wool forward, slip 1, put the thread back, knit 1, putting -the thread twice round the needle. Repeat from *. - -Second round—pearl, putting the thread twice round the needle, put the -wool back to the other side, and then slip the long stitch. Repeat -these two stitches. - -You must be very careful in changing these rows, as otherwise it joins. -A good plan is to tie a piece of red wool where the pattern begins. Of -course the pattern interlaces at the 1st stitch, but otherwise it ought -to be quite separate. - -Third round—the same as 1st. - -Fourth row—the same as 2nd. - - - - -_Comforters, to cost 2s._ - - -Double knitting is most useful for boys’ comforters. - -Cast on 60 stitches with pins No. 6, and Berlin fingering or any soft -wool, and continue to knit backwards and forwards until the desired -length is attained. White or scarlet double Berlin is very warm and -soft. - - - - -_A Night-Sock or Carriage-Sock, in Double Knitting._ - - -[Illustration] - -This pattern does for a grown-up person if tolerably large bone needles -are used. - -The above figure shows the sock completed but not sewn up. - -Cast on 80 stitches. Double knitting for 13 rows. - -Fourteenth row—double knit 63, plain knit the rest. - -Fifteenth row—take off the 17 plain-knitted stitches, double knit 46, -plain knit to the end. - -Sixteenth row—take off the 17 plain stitches. - -Continue double knitting for 13 or 14 rows. Now 1 plain and 1 pearl row. - -Knit 1, knit 2 together; knit 6 plain stitches. Repeat to the end of -the row. - -Pearl 1 row. - -Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat to the end of the row. - -Pearl 1 row. - -Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat. - -Knit 1, knit 2 together, 4 plain; repeat until 12 stitches are left, -and cast off, leaving a long thread. Fold the work together and sew it -up at the heel; gather it a little in the sewing at the toe. This may -seem an odd shape, but it fits very well when on the foot. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Waistcoat._ - -(MEDIUM SIZE. FOR A YOUNG MAN.) - - -Steel pins, No. 10. ½ lb. dark claret-coloured double Berlin wool, at -6s. 6d. - -Cast on 60 stitches. - -First row—1 plain, 1 pearl. Repeat. - -You must be careful always to pearl where, in the preceding row, you -worked a plain stitch. Every row is alike. When you have knitted it -long enough, work another side in the same manner, and send it to a -tailor to make up. This knitting will not run down when cut. - - - - -_Another._ - -(LARGER OR SMALLER SIZE.) - - -As sizes vary so much, a good plan to ensure a nice fit is to measure -the front of a waistcoat at the broadest part, and then for every inch -allow 6 stitches in double Berlin wool, with steel pins No. 10. - -Thus: suppose your waistcoat ought to measure 11 inches across, you -must cast on 66 stitches; and for the turnings in you had better allow -9 stitches: altogether, 75 stitches. - - - - -_Ermine Muffatee._ - - -1 oz. white and 1 oz. scarlet, 1 skein black, 1 skein yellow Berlin -wool; 4 pins, No. 17. - -Cast on 20 on 2 needles, and 23 on the 3rd. Knit 2 inches in ribs of -3 plain, 3 pearl. Join the scarlet, knit 1 plain inch. Go on with the -white and knit 2 inches, ribbed, 3 and 3. Take a wool-needle, and with -black wool make 2 little lengthway stitches on the plain stitches -of the ribbed part. Then make a yellow stitch between the black, to -imitate ermine spots. Now double back the plain knitting and hem it in -a neat fold. Any other colour may be substituted for scarlet. A bright -blue is pretty. - - - - -_Lady’s Muffatee._ - -(QUICK PATTERN.) - - -Pins, No. 14. 1 oz. white Berlin, ½ oz. bright blue. - -Cast on 20 on two needles, 24 on the 3rd. Plain 3, pearl 3. Knit 3 -inches and cast off. With a bone crochet-needle make a very narrow -crochet edging lengthways up and down each rib. This has a very pretty -and bright effect. - - - - -_Gentleman’s Muffatee._ - - -1 oz. brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, price 5½d. - -Cast on 70 stitches, 1 row plain; 2nd row, 2 plain, 2 pearl. Repeat for -about an inch. Then 4½ inches of plain knitting. Another inch to match -the bottom part, of 2 plain and 2 pearl alternately; remembering, of -course, to make the plain stitches in one row, the pearled ones in the -next. Cast off, and take care not to cast off too tightly, as this part -goes over the hand. Sew up, leaving about four inches unsewn for the -thumb. Join the wool at the lower part of the thumb, nearest the wrist; -pick up 2 stitches; with your second needle turn and pearl off these -2 together. Now you have 1 stitch upon your needle; knit this stitch -and pick up 1 from the side; turn and pearl these two; pick up another -from the other side. Continue to pick up these side-stitches, but every -3 rows you must knit (or pearl) 2 together until you have decreased 8 -stitches. You will now find it more convenient to have the knitting on -2 pins. Continue knitting and pearling until you have picked up nearly -all the side-stitches. These few remaining stitches, about 8 (4 on -either side), take up on a third needle, and knit 3 plain rounds. - -Fourth round—pearl 2, plain 2. Repeat 9 times and cast off. - - - - -_Knitted Purse._ - - -One skein blue and one black of purse twist. - -These old-fashioned long purses are still occasionally used; the -following pattern is rather a small one. - -Cast on 72. Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat. Second row plain. -When broad enough double it and sew up, leaving about 3 inches open for -the money to slip in. Finish off with steel rings and tassels. - - - - -_Another Purse._ - - -With pins No. 17 or 18, and 1 oz. embroidery silk, price 1s. 6d., from -Adams & Co. 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E., cast on 144, and -proceed as above; or make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the 3 over the -other 2. - -Second row—plain. Repeat. - - - - -_Lady’s Knitted Woollen Vest, or Jersey._ - -(BEAUTIFULLY WARM AND COMFORTABLE.) - - -Needles, No. 9; merino wool, or 2-ply fleecy; the former for summer -wear. - -These cost about 1s. 1d. each, and are the greatest comfort to those -who suffer from the cold. - -The 2-ply fleecy is the best wool to use, as it does not wash hard. - -For the back—cast on 78 stitches, pearl 3, plain 3, in ribs for 140 -rows. - -141st row—knit 18 stitches; now turn (these 18 stitches form the -shoulder-strap); pearl the 18; knit them; turn, and pearl them. You -ought now to be beginning the row again, and this time you pearl; and -now pearl the 17th and 18th stitches together; turn and knit back; knit -a row, taking the 16th and 17th together; turn and pearl back; knit a -row, taking the 15th and 16th together. Turn, and knit the row. Go on -in this way, remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the -end of every row, until you have done 5 ribs altogether. You ought -to have 12 stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to be -crossways instead of lengthways. - -Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come to the -last 18. Work this shoulder the same as the last. - -[Illustration] - -The _Fig._ is the right-hand shoulder, the plain and pearl each -counting as one rib, making 5 in all. - -For the front part of the vest you cast on 78 stitches and knit 125 -rows. Begin the right-hand shoulder by pearling, and make ribs as -before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the left until -you have done 7 ribs. Reduce to 12 stitches; make 11 ribs and cast off. -Cast off the remaining stitches, and proceed as before with the last 18 -for the fourth shoulder-piece. - -Now sew up these two sides until you get to within 24 rows from the top -of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must now join the rest -with a gusset, which you form by picking up one stitch, knit it and -turn; in every row you must now take up one stitch, and rib them the -same as the other part of the vest in 3 and 3. Thus, the first row you -have 1 stitch, the next row 2, the next row 3, and so on. When 24 rows -are done, cast off. Sew up the shoulders, and crochet a narrow border -of small even holes, into which run a piece of crochet wool or white -ribbon. - -It is a good plan to pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap, -and knit a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve desired. - - - - -_Shetland Shawl._ - - -This takes ¾ lb. of wool, and costs about 9s. A scarlet or violet -crocheted border improves it. It can be finished off with a fringe or -not, as suits the taste. Bone pins, No. 7. - -Cast on 302. Knit a plain row; knit 1 plain stitch at the beginning and -end of every row. * Make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the three over -the other two. Repeat from *. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows -until enough is done, and cast off. - -Any fancy stitch will do: it had better be rather a simple one. - - - - -_Pence Jug._ - - -½ oz. pink and ½ oz. black Andalusian would do three. They would cost -3½d. each. 5 needles, No. 16. - -Cast on 12 stitches on 1 pin for the spout, 10 on each of the three -other needles; 4 rounds plain. Now do rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl, -except the spout, which leave plain, decreasing 1 stitch at each side -of the twelve in the first 4 rounds, and 1 stitch on every alternate -side in the next 8 rounds. The spout is now finished, and you ought to -have 31 stitches on the needles. - -Knit 12 rounds, 2 pearl, 2 plain, except under the spout, where 1 -stitch is to be plain. - -With black begin the bowl; increase by knitting 2 in 1; pearl 2 rounds; -knit 4 rounds with pink; knit 1 round with black, increasing 12 -stitches (one in every six); pearl 2 rounds with black; knit 4 rounds -pink; knit 1 round black, increasing 12: there ought to be 86 now. -Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 6 rounds pink. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 -rounds pink. Knit 1 round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals. -Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink, 1 round black, decreasing 6. -Pearl 2 black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. Divide these -by 6. Knit 11 rounds pink, decreasing 6 stitches in each round by -knitting 2 together at the commencement of each division, where a star -of 6 points will be found, and 6 stitches will remain on the needles. -These are to be drawn up and sewn together. Now cast on 6 stitches in -black, and knit and pearl alternately until you have done 3 inches: -this is for the handle; attach one end to the bowl and the other to the -top of the jug. - - - - -_Another._ - -(LONG SHAPE.) - - -Andalusian wool as the preceding pattern, and pins No. 15. - -Cast on 12 stitches for the spout, and 15 on two other pins. Knit -4 rounds. Now decrease each side of the spout in every round. Do 9 -rounds and then 3 pearl rows; then 9 more plain rows. Now for the -bowl—increase 1 stitch in every five, and then do three rounds in -black; now join the pink and * knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1: repeat -from *, the next round plain. Repeat these rows twice more, and with -black increase again 1 in every 8. Then with pink repeat the pattern -from *, and when the black begins again decrease instead of increasing. -Repeat as in preceding pattern and sew up. Take up 6 stitches at the -top of the jug opposite the spout, and knit and pearl for three inches; -cast off. Leave about a third of an inch hanging, and above that attach -it to the bowl. - - - - -_Another._ - -(ON TWO PINS.) - - -Berlin wool, and pins No. 15. - -Cast on 3 stitches in blue or any other bright colour. 1st row, make -1, knit 1, repeat. 2nd row, make 1, pearl 2, repeat. 3rd row, make 1, -knit 3, repeat. 4th row, make 1, pearl 4, repeat. Continue in this way -until you have 42 stitches. Pearl a row and join the black wool. * -Bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Knit the next -row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Do the same in blue, then the same -in black again. Join the blue, * knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat from -*. The next row plain. Do this for 4 rows. To form the neck of the jug -rib with black for 6 rows. For the spout, knit to the middle; increase, -knit 1; increase; the rest plain. Pearl a row, increasing on each side -of the 2 centre stitches. Increase in this way until you have 14 for -the spout; cast off in blue. Sew up the jug and make the handle in -blue, beginning a third of an inch from the top; take up 4 stitches; -pearl and knit alternately until long enough, then attach to the bowl -of the jug. - -This can be knitted in Andalusian and pins No. 17, but in that case you -must make the bowl larger—68 stitches is a good size; and the neck or -ribbed part must be done for 12 rows instead of 6. - - - - -_Easy and Handsome Pattern for an Antimacassar, or Couvrette._ - - -In 6-thread fleecy wool, ¼ lb. for each stripe. Pins, No. 6. This costs -9s. 9d. Scarlet maize, black, green, violet, are pretty contrasts. - -Cast on 14 stitches plain knitting until you have attained the -required length. The only difficulty is in the casting off. You begin -by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, which must be -very loose indeed, almost an inch in length; pass the slipped stitch -over. Now drop the 3rd stitch and let it run the whole length of the -knitting. Continue thus. The dropped stitches are allowed to run down, -and they form a kind of loop-pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe -at top and bottom. - - - - -_Another._ - - -4-ply fleecy, and bone pins to match. - -Cast on 19 and rib cross-ways in nines. When long enough drop the -middle stitch. Cast on 9 in white, rib another stripe in the same way, -and drop the middle stitch. Crochet with black along every coloured -stripe, and join to the white with maize or orange. Two stripes of -green and one of purple look very nice. - - - - -_Persian Antimacassar._ - - -This is extremely pretty, and is not difficult. The cost of these -couvrettes is generally about the same. - -2 or 3 skeins of 4-thread fleecy, of each colour, according to the -length required. Pins, No. 10. Scarlet, gold, green, violet, dark -crimson, and blue. 6 skeins black, and 6 white filoselle, at 3d. per -skein, from Adams and Co., 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E. - -Cast on 22. Knit any length you like and cast off. Now select any -simple wool-work pattern—a palm is best—or any Moorish pattern, and -work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 5 on one strip and 6 on the -next, so that they do not come exactly in a line one with another. This -has a very handsome effect, indeed. The pattern ought to be worked in -black, or black and white filoselle. Join, and add a fringe. - - - - -_Raised Plait Knitting for Carriage-rug._ - -(THIS IS EXTREMELY HANDSOME.) - - -Pins, No. 5. 3 lbs. and 3 ozs. 12-thread fleecy wool. You must have a -third pin pointed at both ends. This costs 25s. - -Cast on 20, and knit 6 plain rows. - -Seventh row—knit 4, pearl 4, turn round, and knit and pearl these 4 -alternately until 11 rows are done. An easy way of counting is to look -at the side of the small strip, where there ought to be 7 large chains. -When 11 rows are done you slip these 4 stitches on to the third pin, -which you must keep on the right-hand side of your knitting. - -[Illustration] - -Pearl 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the 2nd pin on the left, -leaving the 3rd pointed pin hanging down over the right side of the -knitting; then pearl the 4 stitches on the above-mentioned 3rd pin; -pearl 4, knit 4. - -Eighth row—plain knitting. - -Ninth row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4. - -Tenth row—knit 8, turn round, and pearl and knit these 4 alternately -until 11 rows are done. Slip them on to the pointed pin, and let it -hang down over the right side of the knitting. Knit 4 stitches on the -right-hand pin off the left one; then knit the 4 on the double-pointed -pin; knit the remainder. - -Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4. - -Twelfth row—plain knitting. - -Repeat from the 7th row until one yard and a half are done; knit 6 -plain rows and cast off. You must knit 5 stripes, three scarlet and two -white, and join with Berlin or Scotch fingering. Put a fringe, which -must be crocheted on. Take about 24 inches of wool, double it, insert -the crochet-needle in a stitch of the couvre-pied and pull the ends of -the wool through the loop, and tighten gently with the fingers. - - - - -_Baby’s Berceaunette Cover._ - - -Long wooden pins, No. 10. 1 lb. pink and 1 lb. white, 4-thread fleecy. -Costs 15s. with lining. - -Cast on 7 stitches with pink, 7 with white; continue to cast on -alternately 7 in each colour until you have 147 altogether. Do * 7 -stitches in pink, 7 in white. Repeat 3rd row, 7 pink stitches, and pass -the wool in front; then go on with the white. Continue this knitting, -and when 7 rows are done do white over the pink squares and pink over -the white; you thus make regular rows of squares. You must be careful -always to pass the wool after every alternate row to the front of the -knitting, so as to have all the long threads on the wrong side: care -must be taken not to pull these threads too tightly in passing from one -coloured square to another. Make a fringe, and line carefully with pink -silk. - -Several of the couvrette patterns would make the above, and nearly all -the fancy stitches would be pretty done in stripes of pink and white. - - - - -_Knitted Quilt._ - - -In stripes with cross-stitch sprigs. - -Bone pins No. 6, and 4 lb. 6-thread fleecy, scarlet and white. - -Cast on 12 stitches; knit a stripe of plain knitting, 208 rows long. -Now work about 17 sprigs or any other pattern on it, in bright -filoselle silk (see page 10), leaving 10 rows between each pattern. Now -knit a scarlet stripe 108 rows long. This stripe has no sprigs worked -on it. Do 10 scarlet and 9 white stripes, and join together. - - - - -_Hearth-Rug._ - - -This must be made in squares and then sewn together. Cast on with -ordinary twine and steel pins any even number of stitches. Have ready -narrow pieces of cloth, about 2¾ inches long and ½ inch broad. Knit one -plain row. Second row, slip one; * put a strip of cloth between the two -needles and knit a stitch; then turn the end of cloth up again so that -both ends may come on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. The -next row plain. You must pull this knitting rather tight. - -The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the pound of scraps. It -makes a pretty border to put scarlet stripes at regular intervals. - - - - -_Loop Knitting._ - - -This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty and warm for -quilts, couvrettes, &c. - -Cast on, in 6-thread fleecy and pins No. 7, any number of stitches. Do -not slip the first stitch, but always knit it. - -First row—plain knitting. - -Second row—put the wool round the needle as if you were going to knit a -plain stitch, but instead of knitting let the wool hang straight down -over the forefinger of the left hand; wind it round and put it for the -second time over the right needle. Wind the wool a second time round -the finger, and for the third time put it round the needle; and now -knit this stitch, which ought to have the appearance of three in one. -Repeat. The next row plain. Do about six rows plain and then repeat -with the loops; of course you must only make them on one side of the -knitting, and they will require a little pulling to keep them in the -right place. This is handsome in stripes of shaded red. - - - - -_Fringe._ - - -Berlin wool or cotton. Pins, No. 14. - -Cast on 14. Knit the desired length, cast off 4 stitches, and then -unravel all the rest. - - - - -_Woollen Fringe._ - -(VERY HANDSOME.) - - -Have some ends ready cut, and cast on 7 stitches. - -First row—knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; take one of -the lengths and double it, hang it on the right-hand needle, knit 2 -stitches, bring the double ends of wool forward, knit 1 stitch, put the -end back, and knit the last stitch. - -Second row—knit every stitch plain, taking up with the 4th stitch the -loop of fringe wool, and being careful not to split either of them. -Continue to the end of the row plain. - -Third row—the same as 1st. - -Fourth row—the same as 2nd. Repeat. - - - - -_Lady’s Scarlet and White Petticoat._ - -(WORN INSTEAD OF A FLANNEL ONE.) - - -Wooden pins about 17 inches long, and then cast on all the stitches you -require. With pins No. 5 cast on 360, and knit with scarlet for 1 inch; -then 2 inches of white, then 2 inches of scarlet. Now do the rest of -the petticoat in double knitting, or some fancy stitch. (See page 42.) -When it is 26 inches long rib 21 rows in 2 plain, 2 pearl, and cast -off. Knit a simple crochet scarlet edging. These petticoats pull out -several inches longer after being washed. - - - - -_Lady’s Petticoat, to cost 10s. 6d._ - - -Both these petticoats take about 15 skeins of petticoat yarn. Bone -pins, No. 5. - -Begin with scarlet, if preferred, as above; but this pattern is given -for entire white wool. - -Cast on 120, and knit 25 inches plain, then rib by doing 2 plain and 2 -pearl for 24 rows. Cast off. Do another breadth; and for the 3rd and -front breadth you must, after the first 12 rounds, decrease at the -beginning and end of each row about every two inches. If you do not -like to have a gored breadth do this one exactly the same as the other -two. Crochet some scalloped edges round the bottom of the petticoat, -after having joined the breadths together. These petticoats are -beautifully warm and last for a long time. Summer ones can be knitted -with the same pins in Scotch wheeling-yarn or 2-thread fleecy, which -are much cheaper but not so nice and soft. It makes a charming finish -to put a border as on page 44. You need only make the petticoat 24 -inches long in that case. - - - - -_For a Common Quilt._ - - -Cast on with cotton 2 stitches, use pins about No. 14, and increase -every row. Do 6 rows of plain and 6 of pearl, so as to make lengthway -ribs. When half a square is done decrease at the beginning of every -row. When a sufficient number of squares are finished join together -with a square piece of calico between each knitted one. Thus: take a -piece of calico, turn down the raw edges, double it to the size of the -knitted square, and tack the two edges together. Then sew the knitting -and the calico together, as if you were doing patchwork. The raw edges -of the calico must, of course, be turned inwards, meeting each other so -as not to be seen even on the wrong side of the quilt. This is a quick -and neat quilt, but is not so pretty as the other patterns. - - - - -_Quilt. Laurel-Leaf Pattern._ - - -Cotton, and pins No. 14 or 15. It makes a beautiful berceaunette cover -in 2 or 3-thread fleecy, and bone pins. The price so entirely depends -on the size of quilt desired that it is impossible to give it exactly. -It is a very handsome pattern. - -This quilt is made in squares and joined afterwards. - -Cast on 1, and you must not forget to increase at the beginning of -every row. - -Second and third rows—plain knitting. - -Fourth row—increase (by putting the cotton round the needle) before -every stitch. - -Fifth row—you ought to have 6 stitches now. Do 1 plain, 3 pearl, 2 -plain. - -Sixth row—knit 2, increase; knit 3, increase; knit 2. - -Seventh row—knit 2, pearl 5, knit 3. - -Eighth row—knit 3, increase; knit 5, increase; knit 3. - -Ninth row—knit 3, pearl 7, knit 4. - -Tenth row—knit 4, increase; knit 7, increase; knit 4. - -Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 9, knit 5. - -Twelfth row—plain knitting. - -Thirteenth row—knit 5, pearl 9, knit the rest. - -Fourteenth row—plain. - -Fifteenth row—knit 6, pearl 9, knit the rest. - -Sixteenth row—plain. - -Seventeenth row—knit 7, pearl 9, plain the rest. - -Eighteenth row—plain. - -Nineteenth row—knit 8, pearl 9, knit the rest. - -Twentieth row—plain. - -Twenty-first row—knit 9, pearl 9, plain. - -Twenty-second row—knit 10, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit -5, knit 2 together, the rest plain. - -Twenty-third row—knit 10, pearl 7, knit the rest. - -Twenty-fourth row—knit 11, slip 1, knit 1, take the slipped stitch -over, knit 3, knit 2 together, plain. - -Twenty-fifth row—knit 11, pearl 5, plain. - -Twenty-sixth row—knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit -1, knit 2 together, plain. - -Twenty-seventh row—knit 12, pearl 3, plain. - -Twenty-eighth row—knit 13, slip 1, take 2 together, pass the slipped -stitch over. This finishes the leaf, and ought to be 28 stitches; the -other half of the square is in ribs, decreasing at the beginning of -every row. - -Twenty-ninth row—pearl, then a plain row, then pearl a row, plain a -row, plain another row, pearl. Continue thus in lengthway ribs of 3, -until you have decreased to one stitch. Join the squares so that 4 -laurel leaves meet in the centre. - - - - -_Maltese Pattern._ - - -Strutt’s knitting-cotton No. 6, and pins No. 16. - -This is one of the handsomest patterns there are, but it must be -knitted much tighter than ordinary work. Twist the cotton twice round -the little finger, and you will thus be enabled to draw the stitches -quite tight. - -When your squares are done, sew them together at the plain part, at -the beginning, where the increasings were made. They ought to make a -perfect Maltese cross. Cast on 1 stitch and increase every row. Knit -until you have 27 stitches on your needle. This completes the first -division. - -Twenty-eighth row—make 1, pearl the rest. - -Twenty-ninth row—make 1, knit the remainder. - -Thirtieth row—make 1, pearl 1, * put thread before the needle, pearl 2 -together. Repeat from *. - -Thirty-first row—make 1, knit the rest. - -Thirty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest. - -Do the 33rd and 34th rows like the 31st, and now the 2nd division is -done. - -Thirty-fifth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. - -Thirty-sixth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from*. Knit the last -stitch. - -Thirty-seventh row—make 1, knit 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *. - -Thirty-eighth row—make 1, pearl 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. - -Thirty-ninth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *. - -Fortieth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. Pearl the last -stitch. - -Forty-first row—make 1, pearl the rest. - -Forty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest. - -Forty-third row—now you begin to decrease. Knit 2 together, knit the -rest. - -Forty-fourth row—pearl 2 together, pearl. - -Forty-fifth row—knit 2 together, put the cotton before the needle. -Repeat alternately. - -Forty-sixth row—pearl 2 together. Pearl the rest. - -Forty-seventh row—knit 2 together, knit the rest. - -Forty-eighth row—pearl 2 together, pearl. - -Forty-ninth row—like the forty-eighth. - -Fiftieth row—now you do the third division again of 2 plain, 2 pearl, -according to the pattern; always decreasing at the beginning. In the -last row of this division you knit every stitch. You ought to have 27 -stitches, and the rest of the square is plain knitting. - -It is an improvement after the quilt is finished to run blue ribbon -round the holes which surround the cross, to define it, and bring it -out more clearly. - - - - -_Canadian Cloud._ - - -Wooden pins, No. 1; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scarlet Shetland wool. - -Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 2½ yards. -Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at the two sides. -Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends and finish -off with a large tassel, made in the following way:—Double a skein of -white wool twice, then tie it round very tightly with strong wool about -two inches from the end; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and -tassel together with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the -cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel. - - - - -_Rose-bud Pattern._ - - -Pins No. 13 and coarse cotton. - -Cast on 19 for the pattern, and two extra stitches, to have a plain one -at the beginning and end of every row. - -First row—knit the first stitch, and knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, put the -cotton over the needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch -over, pearl, take 2 together, knit 1, pearl 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, -pass the slipped over, pearl 1, take 2 together, knit 1, put cotton -over, knit the last stitch. - -Second row—1 plain, 3 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 -plain; 4 pearl, 2 plain, 1 pearl. - -Third row—slip the 1st stitch, 1 plain, 2 pearl, 1 plain; put the -cotton over the needle, 1 plain; put cotton over, slip 1, knit 1, pass -the slipped over; 1 pearl, take 2 together, 1 pearl, slip 1, knit 1, -pass slipped over, 1 pearl, take 2 together, the cotton over, 1 plain -cotton over, the last plain. - -Fourth row—slip the 1st, pearl 4, knit 1, pearl plain, pearl plain, -pearl 5, knit 2, plain pearl. - -Fifth row—slip 1, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 3, cotton -over, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, pearl 1, slip 1, -knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, put cotton over, knit 3, put -cotton over, knit the last. - -Sixth row—slip the 1st, pearl 6, knit 1, pearl 7, knit 2, pearl 1, knit -the last. - -Seventh row—slip the 1st, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 5, -cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, put cotton -over the needle, knit 5 plain, cotton over. - -Eighth row—1 plain, pearl 16, 2 plain, pearl 1, knit the last plain. - -Repeat from the 1st row again. - -This forms a handsome border, either for quilts, antimacassars, or -baby’s berceaunette cover; especially the latter, done in stripes of -plain knitting, in wool. - - - - -_Another Pretty Border._ - - -With Strutt’s knitting-cotton cast on 54 and knit a plain row. First -row—knit 2, * knit 2 together, knit 6, thread forward, knit 1, thread -forward, knit 6, knit 2 together. Repeat *. - -Second row—pearl. - -Third row—like the first. - -Fourth row—pearl. - -Fifth row—like the first. - -Sixth row—plain knitting. - -Seventh row—pearl. - -Eighth row—plain knitting. - -Begin again from the 1st row. - - - - -_Arrow Pattern in Stripes._ - -(VERY EASY.) - - -Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according to the width you -require. We will say 13. Put the wool before the needle and knit 6 -plain stitches. This makes 7 stitches on the right-hand needle. Knit 2 -together. The rest plain. Every row alike. - - - - -_Cable Knitting._ - - -This is very pretty, either for the tops of babies’ boots or stockings -in fine wool, or for couvrettes, quilts, &c. in coarser. - -It takes 8 stitches for the pattern. Cast on as many as you require for -the width of the knitting, and do 1 row plain. - -Second row—pearl 1, put the wool back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped -stitch over; pearl 1, putting the thread twice round the needle, knit -4. Repeat to the end of the row. - -Third row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat. - -Fourth row—pearl 1, keep the thread forward, slip 1, pass the wool back -to its proper place, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, pearl 1. -Now take the next 2 stitches on a third needle, and keep them on the -right side of your knitting; knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit -off the 2 on the third needle. - -Fifth row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat. - -Begin again from the 2nd row. - -If you desire your cable broader you need only add on a few more -stitches, say 9 or 10, to the pattern. With 10 stitches you would have -to slip 4 on to the third needle. - -It makes quite as handsome a couvrette as the one on page 37, and costs -about the same price. If 6 instead of 12-thread fleece is used, it is -of course much cheaper and smaller. - - -_Hood Pattern._—Any number of stitches divisible by 2. - -First row—knit 2 together, thread forward. Repeat. - -Second row—thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Pearl -the last 2 together. Do the next row like the 1st. - -Fourth row—pearl 1, * thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. -Repeat from *. - -Fifth row—knit 1, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from *. - -Sixth row—like the 4th. - -Seventh row—like the 1st. Finish by knitting. Then begin again at the -4th row. - - -_Pretty Pattern, which forms a deep Scallop._—Cast on 12 for each -pattern. Knit a row, pearl a row four times. - -Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, thread forward; -knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; -slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped -over. Repeat. - -Sixth row—pearl. These two rows alternately, until the knitting is long -enough. - - -_Open Pattern, for Antimacassar._—Make 1, slip 1, pearl 2 together, -make 2, slip 1, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Every row is alike. - - -_Net Pattern._—Any number of stitches which can be divided by 3. Slip -1, thread before the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat. - - -_Large Holes._—Cast on in eights. - -First row—knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1; knit 1, pass -the slipped over; knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit -1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. - -Second row—pearl 1, knit the first part of this stitch and pearl the -second, pearl 2, knit the first, pearl the second part, pearl 1. Repeat. - -Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over; * knit -2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. -Repeat from *. - -Fourth row—knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2; knit the -first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2. Repeat. - - - - -_Lattice Pattern._ - - -This is very handsome for antimacassars in stripes of two or more -colours, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the latter cast on in -white petticoat yarn 110 stitches on long wooden pins, No. 6. If when -finished you wish it larger put a border in rose-bud pattern. For an -antimacassar cast on 1 stitch with fleecy wool and coarse bone pins. -Plain knitting, increasing at the commencement of every row, until you -have 22. (This pattern is in sixes, and you must have 2 plain stitches -at the beginning and end of every row to form a border: these must -always be knitted plain. There must be an even number of stitches, 22, -28, 34, according to the width required.) - -First row—knit the 22 stitches plain. - -Second row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Knit 1, putting the wool -three times round the needle. Repeat from *. - -Third row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Take off 6 long stitches, -and pass the first 3 over the second 3, but do not let the latter run -off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 6 stitches plainly. -Repeat from *. - -This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the reverse, as it -merely consists in putting three stitches over another three, and then -knitting these six afterwards. - -Do 2 plain rows, and repeat from 2nd row. - -When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to match the -commencement, and finish off the points with tassels. - -The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different pattern, -only you must remember to make the points, by beginning with one stitch -and then increasing up to the requisite number, decreasing in the same -manner at the end. - - * * * * * - - - - -_Fancy Stitches._ - - -All the following patterns are pretty. You must always cast on two -extra stitches, so as to have a plain stitch at the beginning and end -of every row, and every alternate row is pearled. Always work one or -two rows plain for a foundation. - - -_Pearl Pattern._—Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row—pearl 1, -slip 1. Repeat. - -Third row—slip 1, pearl 1. Repeat. - -Go back to the 1st row. - - -_Rain Pattern._—14 stitches are required for each pattern. 1st row—knit -1, thread forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped -stitch over, knit 5, thread forward. Repeat. - - -_Open Pattern._ 1st row—knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1, -knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, bring thread -forward. Repeat. - -Third row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped -over, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat. - -Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread -forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. - -Seventh row—knit 2 together *. Thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, -slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over. Repeat from *. Then go back -to the 1st row. - - -_Square Pattern, with reversed Holes._—Cast on 10 for each pattern and -two over, slip the first and knit the last in every row. Each alternate -row is 5 plain, 5 pearl. - -First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 3, -pearl 5. - -Third row—knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, -knit 2, pearl 5. - -Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, -knit 1, pearl 5. - -Seventh row—knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, -pearl 5. - -Ninth row—pearl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward. - -Now do every alternate row 5 pearl, 5 plain. - -Eleventh row—pearl 5, knit 2, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1. - -Thirteenth row—pearl 5, knit 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2. - -Fifteenth row—pearl 5, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3. - - -_Leaf Pattern._—7 stitches for each pattern. - -First row—thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat. - -Third row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the -slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward. Repeat. - -Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, -knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat. - -Seventh row—knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3. Repeat. - -Ninth row—knit 2 together, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, thread -forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat. - -Eleventh row—knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, -slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat. - -The next row pearled. Recommence from first row. - - -_Honeycomb._—Small holes. Cast on 6 for each pattern. - -First row—pearl 1, putting the thread before the needle twice, pearl 2 -together. Repeat. - -Third row—pearl 2 together, thread before the needle, pearl 1. Repeat. - - -_Another Pattern._—Cast on 8 for each. - -First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. - -Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit -6. Repeat. - - -_Brioche._—Cast on any number of stitches in threes, 21, 30, 36, -according to the desired width. * Thread before the needle, knit 2 -together, slip 1. Repeat from *. - - -_Nice Pattern for the Tops of Socks._—5 stitches for each pattern. - -First row—pearl 2, keep the thread over the needle, knit 3 together, -thread over. Repeat. - -Second row—pearl 3, knit 2. Repeat. - -Third row—pearl 2, knit 3. Repeat. - -Fourth row—like the second. - - -_Very pretty little Pattern._—First row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, -knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat. - -Second row—Pearl 2, thread over, pearl 2 together. Repeat these rows -alternately. - - -_Another._—Cast on six for each pattern. - -First row—pearl 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, thread -forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. - -Second row—pearl 5, knit 1. These two rows alternately. - - -_Another._—Cast on 8 for each pattern. - -First row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, thread forward, -slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2. Repeat. Every other row -is—pearl 4, pearl 2 together, thread over, pearl 2. - -Third row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, -slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1. Repeat. - -Fifth row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 4, thread forward, slip -1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. - -By this time my readers will perceive how much alteration can be made -by merely reversing, and slightly altering, the position of knitted, -pearled, and slipped stitches, and will doubtless be able to invent -many more equally pretty patterns for themselves. - - - - -_High Bodice, to cost 1s. 3d._ - - -This bodice is meant to wear under the dress. Three skeins scarlet -merino and pins No. 5, or Shetland wool and pins No. 7. - -Cast on 98 stitches, and rib with 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 12 rows. - -Thirteenth row—knit 16, make 1 (by putting the wool round the needle), -knit 30, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 16. - -Fourteenth row—Plain knitting. - -Fifteenth row—knit 17, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 8, make 1, knit -30, make 1, knit 17. - -Sixteenth row—Plain knitting. - -Seventeenth row—knit 18, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 10, make 1, knit -30, make 1, knit 18. - -Eighteenth row—plain. Continue in this way until you have done 30 rows -with holes and 30 alternate plain rows. - -Now, for the front part take 60 stitches, leaving all the rest still on -the needle, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on those 60 -for 32 rows. - -Thirty-third row—cast off 5 stitches, knit the rest plain. - -Thirty-fourth row—you must now reduce for the neck at the end of this -row by taking 2 together. - -Decrease thus every other row for 31 rows; you must have 39 stitches on -your needle. Cast off; this part is for the shoulder. - -Cast off 16 stitches under the arm. - -For the back take 66 stitches, and do 16 rows of plain knitting; then -38 rows, decreasing for the shoulder at the end of each row. Now cast -off 28 stitches for the neck. Cast off 16 under the other arm. Now take -the remaining 60 stitches for the second front, and do 32 rows as on -the other side. Reduce for the neck in the same manner, by casting off -5 at the 32nd row, and then decreasing at the end of every alternate -row for 32 rows. Cast off; there ought to be 39 stitches. - -Sew the shoulders together, crochet round the neck and sleeves (1 -treble, 2 chain), and run ribbon or crocheted chain round the former. - -If sleeves are desired, cast on about 48 stitches, and do ribs of 3 and -3 the desired length. - -The following diagram will render the explanations easier:— - -[Illustration] - -A good plan to prevent the front part from stretching too much is, at -every 10th row to leave the last 10 stitches before the end unknitted. - -This pattern is for an ordinary figure, but after one trial the knitter -will find it can be altered to any size. - - - - -_Baby’s Jacket._ - - -Pins No. 9, and fleecy or fingering-wool. - -Cast on 36, knit 5 plain rows. - -Sixth row—knit 4, make 1, knit the remainder. The next row plain. - -Eighth row—knit 5, make 1, the rest plain. Continue in this way to make -holes each time one stitch further from the edge until 13 holes are -done. Then do 6 rows, decreasing once in every row, at the 6th from the -edge, on the side where the holes are: this part goes under the arm. -Now cast it off, leaving 32 stitches on the needle for the chest; knit -these 32 for 22 rows, and then decrease (at the opposite side to where -you cast off) for 20 rows, thus making 10 decreasings; knit 3 plain -rows and cast off. Do another piece in the same way, and for the back -cast on 22 and knit 5 plain rows: this part is for the neck. - -Sixth row—knit 4, increase; knit to within 4 of the end, and increase -again; knit the remaining 4. - -Seventh row—plain knitting. - -Do these alternately for 26 rows until you have 48 stitches; knit 16 -rows; then knit 1, take 2 together, take 2 together, make 1; plain to -within 5 of the end where you make 1, take 2 together, 2 together -again, knit the last. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows -alternately 12 times, then do 24 plain rows and cast off. - -For the neck, pick up about 40 stitches in scarlet and do 4 rows of -ribbed knitting. Pick up 100 for the waist and do 8 rows plain, also -with scarlet, and 2 rows up the front. Finish off with large buttons -and elastic loops, and either knit 4 rows (like the neck) round the -sleeves, or put long ones. For the latter cast on 40 stitches and knit -7 inches. Rib 20 rows in scarlet for the wrist. - - - - -_Child’s Gaiter, to cost 1s. 2d._ - - -Three needles, No. 11 or 12, and 2 oz. brown Berlin wool. - -Cast on 60 (for a very small child 54 will do), knit 3, pearl 3, for 24 -rows. Now do plain knitting for 12 rows, then decrease at the beginning -and end of the row. Continue plain knitting, but you must decrease -every five rows. When six decreasings are done go on knitting until 78 -rows are done. - -Seventy-ninth row—knit 21 stitches, take the next 18 for the instep -on a third pin and knit backwards and forwards, decreasing at the -beginning and end after the first 2 rows. When 18 rows are done cast -off. - -Sew up the leg, and take up the rest of the stitches for the heel. Do -10 rows, decreasing at the beginning and end of every row. Cast off. - - - - -_Round Sofa-cushion._ - - -This can be worked in shades, or in any two colours which contrast well. - -Berlin and pins No. 14 may be used, casting on 54 stitches. This is -rather a small size; to make it larger use coarser wool, and pins to -correspond. - -First row—plain knitting. - -Second row—the rest of the cushion is done in Brioche stitch; leave the -last 3 stitches unknitted, turn and go on with the Brioche stitch. - -Fourth row—leave the last 6 unknitted and turn. - -Sixth row—leave the last 9 unknitted, and so on, 3 more every time you -get to the end of the row. - -When you have worked off all the stitches, join the next shade and knit -the whole row. The next row like the 2nd. - -This makes the knitting come into a gradual round. When large enough -sew it up and do a second in the same way. Make a round pillow lined -with feathers, and put between the knitting, which must be sewn -together like a silk pincushion. Draw in the centre, which may be -finished off with an ornamental button; the edges can be crocheted or -left plain, as preferred. - -These cushions used to be very fashionable at one time, although they -are seldom seen now. However, fashions change so quickly that they may, -perhaps, be used again. - - - - -_Knee-cap._ - - -These are very comfortable for people who are at all rheumatic. - -Cast on 29 stitches with Berlin wool, knit 14, bring the wool forward, -knit the rest. Continue this until 28 rows are done. Then knit 32 rows -without increasing. Begin to decrease where you took the wool forward -at the 14th stitch by knitting 2 together. Do 28 rows to correspond -with the other side; have 29 stitches on your pin, the same as you -began with. Cast off, and sew the ends together. - -The size of knee-caps must be regulated by the pins, and also by the -number of stitches used. Many people consider them better when quite -plain, without either increasing or decreasing. - - - - -_Baby’s Hood._ - - -Pins No. 9 and Berlin, or any other soft wool. - -Cast on 60, and do 1 plain row. Then do Hood pattern, page 50, for 5 -rows; then 6 rows of plain knitting. Do the rest in any fancy stitch. -When the knitting is 4 inches deep do 2 plain rows, 1 pearled, and cast -off. - -Cast on 22 stitches for the crown, do 1 plain row. - -Second row—knit 1, thread over, take 2 together. Repeat; 6 more -plain rows, and then any fancy stitch. When 3 inches are done knit a -row, decreasing at the beginning and end of the row. Pearl the next, -decreasing in the same way. Do 5 more rows in this manner, and cast -off. Now sew the crown and head parts together, gathering the fulness -at the top, and not at the sides. - -Take up 74 stitches for the curtain, or neck part, and do 3 rows of -alternate knitting and pearling; let the plain part come on the right -side. - -In the second row increase after every 2 stitches, so as to have about -110 altogether. When you have done 3 rows do any open pattern for 2 -inches, and cast off. Edge the hood all round with a simple crochet -edging in pink wool, and then ribbon round the neck. - -These hoods are very useful in grey wool for poor people. - - - * * * * * - -London: Printed by JOHN STRANGEWAYS, Castle St. Leicester Sq. - - * * * * * - - - - -_PRICE LIST OF WOOLS AND YARNS_ - -Sold by HAIG AND VINCE, -209 OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W. - - * * * * * - - PER LB. - s. d. s. d. - Charity Wheeling Yarn 3 6 to 4 0 - Best Scotch Wheeling Yarn, 6½d. & 7½d. per skein 4 3 ” 4 9 - Best Scotch Fingering Yarn 6 0 ” 7 0 - Scotch Berlin Fingering 7 6 ” 8 6 - Merino Yarn, 4½d. per skein 10 6 ” 12 6 - Petticoat Yarn, 9d. per skein 6 0 ” 7 0 - Andalusian, 10d. per oz. 11 6 ” 15 0 - Shetland Wool, 10d. per oz 11 6 ” 15 0 - Pyrenees ditto — ” — - Berlin Wool, Single or Double, 7d. to 11d. per oz. 8 6 ” 12 6 - Fleece Wool in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 12 threads 6 6 ” 7 9 - Lady Betty Wool, 2, 3, and 4 thread, - 9d. and 10d. per oz. 11 6 ” 12 6 - Angola Yarn, 2½d. per skein 6 0 — - Scotch Knitting Cotton 3 9 — - - - * * * * * - -_All patterns in The Lady’s Knitting-Book have been successfully worked -in the above Wools._ - - * * * * * - -[Transcriber’s Note—the following changes have been made to this text: - -Page 14: 12 to 11—“as on page 11”.] - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Lady's Knitting-Book, by Elvina M. 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