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-Project Gutenberg's Tropical Fish Handbook, by Guenther-Lothar Schott
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Tropical Fish Handbook
- Tenth Edition, 1953
-
-Author: Guenther-Lothar Schott
-
-Release Date: June 24, 2020 [EBook #62463]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK
-
-
- GOLDFISH
- AND
- 31 POPULAR TROPICALS
- ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED
-
- “_Twice happy is the man who has a Hobby,
- He has Two Worlds to Live in._”
-
-
-
-
- TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK
-
-
-A book of practical information for the beginner, containing
-illustrations and descriptions of Tropical Fish, Goldfish, Scavengers,
-Turtles and Aquarium Accessories.
-
- [Illustration: {Tropical lake scene}]
-
- _Tenth Edition 1953_
-
- Copyright 1945
- By
- GUENTHER L. SCHOTT
- New York, N. Y.
-
- PRINTED IN U. S. A.
-
-
-
-
-For the beginner, the happy family collection is of most interest. Here
-in one large tank he can observe the interesting habits, shapes and
-colors of a great variety of fish. If he desires he may remove them to
-separate tanks during breeding periods. The danger of cross breeding in
-the community tank is practically eliminated by the presence of a pair
-of each species.
-
-The following fish are discussed in this handbook, those marked * being
-recommended for the community tank.
-
- _Bad tempered fish may appear in some normally peaceful species and
- vice versa._
-
- _Also fish which may make trouble in a small aquarium may be peaceful
- in a large well planted one._
-
-Live Bearers (young are born alive) *Guppy, *Swordtail, *Moon or Platy,
- *Sailfin, *Black Mollienisia, *Helleri, *Mosquito Fish, *Platy
- Variatus.
-
-Labyrinth (breathe air taken from surface, bubble nest builders)
- Paradise, Bettas, *Dwarf Gourami, Three-Spot Gourami.
-
-Cichlids (Egg layers, guard eggs and fry) Jewel Fish, *Angel Fish, Mouth
- Breeder, Blue Acara, Orange Chromide.
-
-Danios (Egg droppers) *Zebra, *Pearl Danio, *Giant Danio.
-
-Barbs (spawn on plants like goldfish) *Rosy Barb, *Barbus Oligolepis.
-
-Characins (Deposit adhesive eggs on plants) *Silver Tetra, *Tetra Von
- Buenos Aires, *Tetra Von Rio, *Blood Fin, *Pristella Riddlei,
- *Head and Tail Light. *Featherfins, *Black Tetra, *Neon Tetra.
-
-Cyprinodontidae (Egg droppers) *Medaka, *Panchax.
-
-Cyprinidae (Egg droppers) *Rasbora.
-
- [Illustration: The above illustration will assist the reader in
- locating the markings of the fish described in this book.]
-
- DORSAL
- CAUDAL
- PECTORAL
- ANAL
- VENTRAL
-
-
-
-
- PREPARING THE BALANCED AQUARIUM
-
-
-Much of the future enjoyment of your aquarium will depend upon the care
-with which it is selected, and its proper location.
-
-The aquarium should be rectangular, and the depth should not exceed its
-width. The larger the tank the more satisfaction you will receive from
-it—it is easier to balance, maintains a more uniform temperature, and
-allows space to add to your collection.
-
-The principles of the balanced aquarium are very simple. Fish breathe
-oxygen (which they obtain from the water) and exhale carbon dioxide.
-Thriving plants absorb the carbon from the carbon dioxide and liberate
-the oxygen. This maintains a high oxygen content in the water necessary
-to maintain healthy fish. No balanced aquarium can be maintained without
-scavengers to consume bits of decaying food and plants. Fish, plants and
-scavengers depend upon each other in the balanced aquarium.
-
-Aquarium should be located where it will receive one or two hours of
-direct sunshine daily and plenty of strong light all day. When aquarium
-is located cover bottom with one or two inches of well washed coarse
-sand. (For practical purposes sand may be considered well washed when
-water runs clear.) Be sure that aquarium has been carefully washed
-before introducing sand. Sand and aquarium may be washed in strong
-solution of rock salt—RINSE THOROUGHLY.
-
-Now fill aquarium about half full of water and set in plants. Be sure
-that over one half your plants are excellent oxygenators. Vallisneria
-and Sagittaria should not have crowns buried when planting. Plant tall
-plants in back or in corners and smaller ones in front. You cannot use
-too many plants—BUT ONLY GROWING AND HEALTHY PLANTS LIBERATE OXYGEN.
-
-Fill tank, pouring water on piece of paper floating on top or into cup
-submerged in tank to avoid uprooting plants. Allow water to stand 24
-hours. Be sure it is the right temperature for fish it will contain. Add
-snails and scavengers. PROVIDE GLASS COVER as tropicals are noted for
-their jumping ability. Some type of heater should be provided for the
-aquarium, in order to maintain a uniform temperature during the winter
-months.
-
-Fish may now be introduced, care being taken not to place too many fish
-in a new tank until plants have had sufficient time to multiply. The
-dissolution of uneaten food, dead snails, plants, etc., frequently
-produces more food than can be consumed by the plant life present. At
-this point Algae frequently steps in and the tank becomes green or
-cloudy and foul smelling.
-
-To avoid this condition, avoid too many fish in aquarium, siphon off
-dirt on bottom frequently, remove plants that are not thriving, cut down
-light when thread algae becomes a nuisance.
-
-Water in a balanced aquarium will remain crystal clear for months.
-
-Always keep glass cover on aquarium. It helps maintain a more uniform
-temperature, and keeps fish from jumping out. It may be raised slightly
-but this is not necessary.
-
-Always use net in handling fish.
-
-Do not use pebbles in aquarium—food gets into crevices where scavengers
-cannot reach it—causing water to foul.
-
-Always keep a thermometer in aquarium.
-
-Avoid metals in aquarium. Lead is safe as it does not dissolve.
-
-Rooted plants should not have crowns buried when planting—Fig. 1.
-
-KEEP BOTTOM OF AQUARIUM CLEAN—remove all sediment with dip tube—Fig. 2.
-
-To remove water—use either automatic siphon—Fig. 3—or siphon with rubber
-hose.
-
- [Illustration: FIG·1]
-
- [Illustration: FIG·2]
-
- [Illustration: FIG·3]
-
- [Illustration: {Plants}]
-
- ANACHARIS. LUDWIGIA. VALLISNERIA. SAGITTARIA. CABOMBA.
- DUCK WEED.
- HAIR GRASS. SOUTHERN VALLISNERIA. MYRIOPHYLLUM. SALVINIA.
- SPATTERDOCK.
-
-
-
-
- PLANTS
-
-
-Anacharis: Fair oxygenator—planted or floating—needs abundance of light.
-
-Ludwigia: Fair oxygenator. Leaves—top green, underneath red.
-
-Sagittaria: Excellent oxygenators, three varieties: NATANS—long narrow
- leaves; GIGANTEA—broad stocky 8″ leaves; SUBULATA—(dwarf) 4″ to 6″
- narrow leaves.
-
-Cabomba: Little value as oxygenator—fanlike green leaves.
-
-Hair Grass: Fair oxygenator—rapidly covers floor with 4″ grassy needles.
-
-Southern Spatterdock: Ornamental—broad bright green leaves.
-
-Vallisneria: Excellent oxygenator—15″ long—multiplies rapidly by
- runners.
-
-Myriophyllum: Ornamental—excellent for spawn of adhesive egg layers.
-
-Salvinia: Floating—¼″ leaves covered with velvety hairs.
-
-Duck Weed: Ornamental bright green floating plant.
-
-Riccia: Very fine bright green floating plant—valuable in spawning
- bubble nest builders, especially Dwarf Gourami.
-
-Cryptocoryne: Leaves top dark green, underside dark red. Needs some
- soil, slow grower. Very decorative and necessary in spawning some
- species.
-
- [Illustration: {Scavengers}]
-
- WEATHER FISH BLACK RAMSHORN SNAIL
- POND SNAIL AMERICAN SALAMANDER
- CLAM or FRESH WATER MUSSEL AFRICAN SNAIL
- MELANTHO SNAIL
-
-
-
-
- SCAVENGERS
-
-
-Melantho (Trumpet) Snail: Very active—multiplies rapidly—consumes algae.
-
-Pond Snail: Very active and useful—a fast moving fellow.
-
-Black Ramshorn Snail: Multiplies rapidly—excellent scavenger.
-
-Coral Snail: Same as Ramshorn with coral red body, and shell.
-
-African Snail: Good scavenger—light yellow brown—dark spots.
-
-Australian Snail: Similar to Pond but bright scarlet in color—very
- active.
-
-Catfish: (Corydoras Paleatus) most popular scavenger. Look for full
- description on page 26.
-
-American Salamander: Brown with red and black spots—vest yellow and
- brown.
-
-Clam or Fresh Water Mussel: Filters all floating matter from water
- leaving it crystal clear. Must have large tank or pool and several
- inches of sand in which to work.
-
-Snails will eat eggs of egg-laying fish.
-To breed snails—place in separate tank and feed lettuce. Well fed snails
- lay an abundance of eggs, resembling a gelatin like mass attached
- to plants and glass. Fish will eat snail eggs. Salt will kill
- snails—when using salt treatment remove snails.
-
-
- MOSQUITO FISH: HETERANDRIA FORMOSA
- (Southern U. S.)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Numerous black bands adorn gray sides—black horizontal line
- extends from eye to caudal. Red edged dark spot on dorsal.
-
-Breeding Habits: Live bearers—Females produce several young every few
- days during breeding season. Young are hardy and mature in about 6
- months.
-
-Temperature: 65° to 75° F.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful.
-
-
- GUPPY: (below) LEBISTES RETICULATUS (Venezuela)
-
-Color: Male—two males are never precisely alike. Every color of the
- rainbow is present, intermingled with irregular black spots and
- bars. Female—dull grayish green.
-
-Breeding Habits: Live Bearers—mature females produce from 35 to 50 live
- young every 5 weeks. Presence of young is indicated by darkened
- area anterior to anal fin. “Heavy” females may be removed to
- separate vessel, heavily stocked with plants—particularly floating
- plants toward light. When young are born they seek safety among
- plants. Remove female to prevent her eating young. Young are ready
- to take fine food in a few hours. Guppy seem to thrive under
- fairly crowded conditions.
-
-Temperature: Thrive and breed at 65° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: Males 2 to 3 months—Females 4 month. Males less hardy.
-
-Temperament: Very peaceful. Males very active.
-
-
- SWORDTAIL: XIPHOPHORUS HELLERI
- (Mexico)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Male—body blue green, red line on side. Large dorsal with reddish
- dots. Ornamental sword may be yellow, orange or green, edged with
- black. Female—resembles male in color, lacks sword. (Both male and
- female CRESCENT SWORDTAIL have black crescent at base of caudal.)
-
-Breeding Habits: Live bearers—have 25 to 100 live young every 6 or 7
- weeks. When female is “heavy” place her in large vessel heavily
- stocked with plants. Young swim from mother, seeking safety among
- plants usually at bottom toward light. Remove female—she will eat
- fry.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 85° F. Breed best at 75° F.
-
-Maturity: Breed at about 9 months. Male resembles female until full
- grown; then anal changes to reproducing organ and “sword”
- develops.
-
-Temperament: Very peaceful. Due to rivalry, stronger male will bully
- others.
-
-
- HELLERI (below) (Gold, Red and Black)
-
-Mating a virgin female Swordtail and Platy male, the young inherit the
-general color of the male and body type of the female, often becoming
-larger than either parent. Some males develop short sword. A percentage
-of the offspring are sterile.
-
-
- PLATYPOECILIA VARIATUS (above)
- (Mexico)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Large dorsal, yellow with black edge, caudal reddish, body
- various colors intermingled. Female, similar to female swordtail
- in color and markings. Male has spot resembling gravid spot on
- female. Color and markings vary.
-
-Breeding Habits: Live bearers (same as swordtails). Do not breed true to
- color.
-
-Temperature: 72° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: 5 to 8 months.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful, very hardy.
-
-
- MOONS OR PLATY PLATYPOECILIA (Mexico)
-
-Color: RED MOON—deep rich red. GOLD MOON—gold body, red dorsal fin, BLUE
- MOON—blue body, black crescent at base of caudal. (Black Crescent
- may appear on Red and Gold Moons.) BLACK MOON—black body sometimes
- with greenish sheen, also found with red heads, (Black Helmet
- Moon), GOLD WAGTAIL—Gold body with black fins and black caudal.
- RED WAGTAILS—deep red body with black fins and black caudal.
-
-Breeding Habits: Live bearers—15 to 30 young every 6 to 9 weeks.
- Breeding habits same as swordtails, except most young moons come
- to top. Cross breeding with swordtail common, producing beautiful
- hybrids (HELLERI) larger than either parent and assuming color of
- male (MOON).
-
-Temperature: 70° to 80° F. Maturity: 4 to 6 months.
-
-Temperament: Very peaceful. Fry must be kept very warm.
-
-
- SAILFIN: MOLLIENISIA LATIPINNA
- (Southern U. S., Northern Mexico)
-
- [Illustration: About one half size]
-
-Color: Male—body olive green, black stitching; large dorsal fin
- (sailfin) lavender and orange spotted with black; caudal, orange
- and light blue. Female—similar to male but without large dorsal.
-
-Breeding Habits: Live bearers—have 20 to 100 young at irregular
- intervals. All Mollienisia are hardy but females must not be moved
- to another tank when young are expected. This frequently causes
- young to be born prematurely and few will survive. Moving female
- or undue excitement at this time may cause death of female.
- Provide ample vegetation in tank. Sailfins are not very
- cannibalistic but it is always safest to remove fry for several
- weeks. Young are ⅜″ long when born.
-
-Temperature: 45° to 85° F. Breed best at 70° F.
-
-Maturity: 9 months.
-
-Temperament: Very peaceful.
-
- In breeding Mollienisia, no two varieties should be kept in the same
- tank as they will cross breed. Each variety should be provided with a
- separate tank. (This is also true of the moons). Only very careful
- intelligent selective breeding has produced the Black Mollienisia,
- later the Sailfin Black Molly, and most recently, Black Molly Sailfin
- with an orange bordered dorsal.
-
-
- BLACK MOLLIENISIA:
- (Southern U. S.)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Both male and female coal black.
-
-Breeding Habits: Live bearers—15 to 25 young born at irregular intervals
- throughout the year. Young when born are large and black. Turn
- gray in a few weeks and then gradually turn black. Female should
- never be moved when young are expected—as this usually results in
- loss of young and frequently loss of female. (See Sailfin). Young
- are fairly safe with parents if ample floating plants are
- provided. “Mollies” are algae eaters. Black Mollienisia have been
- crossed with Sailfins producing the beautiful BLACK MOLLIENISIA
- SAILFIN.
-
-Temperature: 65° to 80° F. Breed best at 75° F.
-
-Maturity: Good male becomes black in about 6 months. Female about 18
- months. Breed at 9 months. Males less hardy.
-
-Temperament: Very peaceful.
-
- “Mollies” are heavy eaters, and largely vegetarians. Some algae should
- be present.
-
-
- MEDAKA: (above) ORYZIAS LATIPES
- (China)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Male and female light lemon yellow. Male slim like
- Zebra—sometimes called “Golden Danio.” Female—slightly heavier.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—these interesting and attractive fish are
- the easiest of the egg layers to breed. Eggs cluster about anal
- region of female like bunch of grapes. Here they are carried for
- several hours and later brushed off on plants where they become
- attached. Eggs can be easily seen hanging to plants. Fish seldom
- bother eggs but it is safest to remove plants containing eggs to
- another jar. Fry hatch in 10 to 14 days. Feed fry infusoria. Never
- have snails in tank containing fish eggs.
-
-Temperature: 45° to 80° F. Spawn best at 70° F.
-
-Maturity: Mature in about 6 mos.
-
-Temperament: Very peaceful.
-
-
- ZEBRA: DANIO RERIO (Ceylon)
-
-Color: Both male and female striped from eyes through tail with
- alternate lines of blue and silver. Underparts of male slightly
- yellowish—female silvery white. Female—deeper in body.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—non-adhesive eggs fall to bottom. Cover
- bottom of breeding tank with several layers ½″ pebbles or glass
- marbles, not over 3 inches of water above marbles. Place male and
- female (kept separate several days) in prepared tank. Spawning
- usually takes place within 24 hours. Spawning is preceded by very
- fast swimming. Remove parents after spawning. Fry hatch in 2 to 8
- days. Feed fry infusoria.
-
-Temperature: 45° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: Breed when 4 to 5 months.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful, swim in school, constantly moving.
-(See Pearl Danio.)
-
-
- PEARL DANIO (above): DANIO ALBOLINEATUS
- (Burma)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Iridescent mother-of-pearl and opal tints. Dull red line through
- center of body and tail. Female—slightly heavier.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—prepare aquarium same as for Zebra. Long
- tank best for both. As they snatch eggs when they turn, long tank
- eliminates many turns. Advisable to use two males to one female.
- (See Zebra.)
-
-Temperature and Temperament: Same as Zebra.
-
-Maturity: 6 to 8 months.
-
-
- GIANT DANIO DANIO MALABARICUS
- (Malabar Coast)
-
-Color: Deep metallic blue with two horizontal stripes of yellow gold.
-Female—slightly heavier.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—very small semi-adhesive eggs deposited on
- plants. Fry need great amount of food. Remove parents after
- spawning. (see Rosy Barb.)
-
-Temperature: 60° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: 8 to 10 months.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful, but will attack small fish.
-
- Danios (Zebra, Pearl and Giant) are always active, and are large
- consumers of oxygen, therefore are more susceptible to the effects of
- lack of sufficient oxygen in the aquarium. Being fast swimmers and
- especially fond of their own eggs, water in the breeding tank should
- not exceed 6 inches and they should be removed as soon as spawning is
- over.
-
-
- ROSY BARB: BARBUS CONCHONIUS
- (India)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Silvery green, dark spot at base of caudal. Male has black dash
- on dorsal and takes on rosy hue during spawning season.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—lay eggs on fine plants similar to goldfish.
- Stock aquarium well with fine plants like Myriophyllum or Cabomba,
- weight down ends with a stone. Separate male and female for a few
- days. Spawning usually takes place within 48 hours after pair is
- placed together. After spawning is completed remove plants
- containing eggs and place in tank free from other fish and
- scavengers. Fry hatch in about a week and should be fed with Brine
- Shrimp.
-
- The following Barbs are prettily colored and easy to take care of.
- Their breeding habits are like those of the Rosybarbs.
-
- BARBUS SUMATRANUS
- BARBUS EVERETTI (CLOWN BARB)
- BARBUS SEMIFASCIOLATUS (HALF BANDED)
- BARBUS SEMIFASCIOLATUS var. Schuberti, (GOLD BARB)
- BARBUS NIGROFASCIATUS
-
-Temperature: 45° to 80° F. Spawn best at 70° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: Mature in about 9 months.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful.
-
-
- BARBUS OLIGOLEPIS (below)
- (Sumatra)
-
-Color: Male—Large scales with blue-black spot, all fins orange-red with
- dark edge. Female—Duller in color with 4 or 5 black spots on
- sides.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Stock aquarium with Cabomba. Male turns
- almost black during spawning period. Remove both parents as soon
- as eggs are deposited on fine plants. Fry hatch in about 72 hours.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: 10 months.
-
-Temperament: (Peaceful.)
-
-
- BLOOD FIN: (above) APHYOCHARAX RUBRIPINNIS
- (Argentine)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Iridescent steel blue with deep red fins. Sex determined same as
- Silver Tetra.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers. Use large tank, cover bottom with fine
- plants, and ample tall ones. Fish spawn at surface, some eggs
- adhering to tall plants, others falling. Remove parents. Fry
- appear in about 24 hours. Feed Brine Shrimp. Fry grow rapidly.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 78° F.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful.
-
-
- SILVER TETRA: CTENOBRYCON SPILURUS
- (Br. Guiana)
-
-Color: Steel blue body covered with very fine bright silver scales. Body
- very thin. Large black spot at base of caudal. Tetras are all
- easily identified by the small adipose fin between dorsal and
- caudal. Male slightly smaller with invisible processes on anterior
- tip of anal which catch in fine net. Sex is determined in this
- way.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—lay great quantities of adhesive eggs on
- fine plants. Plants or parents should be removed as soon as
- spawning is completed. Fry will make their appearance in a few
- days. Be sure there are no snails in tank with eggs.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 90° F.
-
-Maturity: 6 to 8 months.
-
-Temperament: Very active. Not for community tank.
-
-
- TETRA FROM RIO (above): HYPHESSOBRYCON FLAMMEUS
- (Brazil)
- TETRA FROM BUENOS AIRES: HEMIGRAMMUS CAUDOVITTATUS
- (Argentina)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: TETRA FROM RIO—body bright silver—3 black bars near head; fins
- brilliant red edged with black; black edge on anal of male wider
- than on female. During mating season red runs well into body.
- TETRA FROM BUENOS AIRES—body bright silver, fins blood red. Large
- diamond shaped spot at base of caudal. Sex determined same as
- Silver Tetra.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers. Use 15 gallon tank, 6 to 8 inches of water.
- Stock tank heavily with Cabomba, Myriophyllum, or other fine
- floating plants, also a thicket on bottom. Semi-adhesive eggs are
- deposited on plants, some sinking to bottom. Best results are
- obtained with 2 males and 1 female. Remove parents after spawning
- is completed. Fry appear in about 3 days. Tiny fry hang on plants
- and sides of aquarium about 3 days. Tetras may not spawn
- immediately—have patience.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 90° F.
-
-Maturity: From Rio—8 months. Buenos Aires—10 months.
-
-Temperament: From Rio—Very peaceful, Buenos Aires—Fairly peaceful.
-
-
- PRISTELLA RIDDLEI: (above)
- (Venezuela and Guiana)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Silvery body, caudal reddish, anal and dorsal light yellow with
- dark spot. Difficult to distinguish sex.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg Layers. Spawn on fine plants, Myriophyllum or
- Cabomba—very small adhesive eggs, expelled 6 or 8 at a time, often
- fall to bottom. Sometimes as many as 200 eggs at a spawning.
- Remove parents after spawning.
-
-Temperature: 72° to 80° F.; best above 75° F.
-
-Maturity: About 1 year.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful.
-
-
- HEAD AND TAIL LIGHT: HEMIGRAMMUS OCELLIFER
- (Amazon River, S. A.)
-
-Color: Body translucent green, faint gold line through center of body,
- thin black line toward caudal base broadens into diamond shape.
- Gleaming gold spot on tail and brilliant red eye give fish its
- common name. Male smaller, more slender and has pointed instead of
- rounded dorsal.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers. Adhesive eggs are deposited on fine plants.
- Use 2 males to one female for best results. Fry hatch in 2 days.
- (See Pristella Riddlei.)
-
-Temperature: 72° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: About 8 months.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful. Young fairly hardy.
-
-
- FEATHERFIN: HEMIGRAMMUS UNILINEATUS
-
-Color: Like above Pristella Riddlei but has a black and white line down
- the anal fin.
-
-Breeding Habits and Temperament: like Pristella.
-
-
- JEWEL FISH: HEMICHROMIS BIMACULATUS
- (Africa)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Body bright scarlet blending to rich olive on back. Emerald dots
- (jewels) in irregular lines cover body and vertical fins.
- Frequently difficult to obtain mated pair.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—eggs are deposited on smooth stone or flower
- pot, to which they adhere. During incubation (about 30 hours) one
- parent stands guard, constantly fanning to circulate water over
- eggs. Fry are unable to swim first three days so parents make
- hollow in sand where fry are placed and guarded. After fry can
- swim, they form school with parents in center. Remove parents when
- fry are about one-fourth grown or sooner. Parents must not be
- excited or they will eat spawn or fry.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 90° F. Fry above 75° F. Breed best at 80° F.
-
-Maturity: 10 to 14 months.
-
-Temperament: Very savage—male frequently attacks carefully mated female.
-
- * * * * * * * *
-
-To spawn Cichlids (Jewel, Angel, Orange Chromide, Blue Acara and
-Mouthbreeder) purchase several young fish—bring them to maturity
-together. When ready for breeding a mated pair will be found associating
-together and separated from the others.
-
-Avoid disturbing Cichlids, any disturbance or noise may cause them to
-devour their eggs or young.
-
-
- ANGEL FISH: PTEROPHYLLUM SCALARE
- (Amazon River, S. A.)
-
- [Illustration: Reduced]
-
-Color: Bright silver, black bars, body very thin. Black bars disappear
- when disturbed or frightened. Difficult to distinguish sex.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—very difficult to breed. Prefer sides of
- aquarium or Sagittaria Gigantea for depositing eggs. Eggs are
- fanned constantly by parents. Fry appear in about 8 days; guarded,
- and transferred from one plant to another or depression in sand,
- by parents. Fry swim in about a week and resemble thread like
- worms. Remove parents when fry begin to swim. Feed infusoria. Fry
- take shape of scalare in 3 to 5 weeks.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 90° F. 85° for spawning.
-
-Maturity: One to one and a half years. Growth depends upon quality and
- quantity of food and size of tank. Angel fish should have as much
- live food as possible, largest tank available.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful. Easily frightened. Keep in large well planted
- aquarium otherwise they may dart against sides and kill
- themselves. Should be fed live food frequently. Large specimens
- are not recommended for community tank.
-
-
- BLUE ACARA: AEQUIDENS LATIFRONS
- (Central America)
-
- [Illustration: one half size]
-
-Color: Yellowish brown with several dark vertical bands. One of these
- bands widens in center of the body into a spot. Lines of shining
- blue dots cover the entire body. Dorsal, anal and caudal are wine
- red with rows of blue and blue-green spots. Both sexes similar,
- female slightly subdued in color.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Mate fish of approximately the same size.
- Provide a clean flower pot for the fish to deposit their spawn.
- The adhesive eggs are placed on the inside of the flower pot and
- are then fertilized by the male. Eggs are fanned by the parents
- and fry appear in 3 or 4 days. Parents prepare a depression in the
- sand and taking the newly hatched fry in their mouths deposit them
- into these holes where they are carefully guarded by the parents.
- Young live in a swarm in this “nest” for several days. Then they
- swim freely and must be fed infusoria. Parents may be removed soon
- after fry swim freely. The Blue Acara is hardy, prolific, easily
- spawned, and the fry are hardy and develop rapidly.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 85° F.
-
-Maturity: Breed in about 8 months.
-
-Temperament: Not peaceful—except with very large fish.
-
-
- MOUTH BREEDER: HAPLOCHROMIS STRIGIGENA
- (Egypt)
-
- [Illustration: one half size]
-
-Color: Body light blue gray—fins yellowish—head very massive.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—deposit spawn in depression in sand. After
- spawning is completed female picks up eggs and carries them in her
- mouth. Water is circulated over eggs by a chewing movement. Female
- refuses food during period she carries eggs. Male should be
- removed as soon as female picks up eggs as he may bother her. Fry
- appear in about two weeks, but at the slightest sign of danger
- rush back into the mother’s mouth. This continues until fry are
- too large for the maternal jaw. Female should be removed when fry
- are about 5 weeks old. Because of “fast” while carrying eggs,
- should be bred but 2 or 3 times a year.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 85° F.
-
-Maturity: 12 to 14 months.
-
-Temperament: Rather vicious.
-
-
- ORANGE CHROMIDE: (below) ETROPLUS MACULATUS
- (India)
-
-Color: Golden orange, 3 blue-black dots on sides crossed by rows of
- small reddish dots. Dorsal brown, anal and pectorals dark. Sex
- difficult to distinguish.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Spawn on flower pot or stones placed in the
- aquarium. Fry hatch in about 4 days and are moved into pits in
- sand. Fry swim freely in about 6 days. Remove parents in about two
- weeks.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 80° F.
-
-Maturity: about 6 to 8 months.
-
-Temperament: Usually peaceful in large well planted tank.
-
-
- THREE-SPOT GOURAMI: TRICHOGASTER TRICHOPTERUS
- (India)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Silvery olive with black spot in center of body, another at
- caudal base—the eye making the third spot.
-
-Breeding Habits: Same as Dwarf Gourami.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 85° F.
-
-Maturity: 10 months.
-
-Temperament: Not recommended for community tank.
-
-
- BLUE GOURAMI: TRICHOGASTER SUMATRANUS
-
- Form and size like three-spot gourami but color light blue.
-
-
- DWARF GOURAMI: (below) COLISA LALIA (India)
-
-Color: Body light blue crossed by orange-red stripes. Large fins colored
- same as body. Female—subdued in color and fins (dorsal and anal)
- slightly rounded.
-
-Breeding Habits: Bubble nest builders—male blows nest of bubbles on
- surface of water among floating plants. Female frequently assists,
- weaving bits of plants into nest. Female is coaxed beneath nest
- where eggs are expelled and fertilized. Male catches eggs and
- blows them into bubble nest. Remove female. Eggs hatch in several
- days. Male guards nest, blowing fry back into nest until they are
- able to swim freely, to prevent their drowning. Remove male when
- fry are 4 days old.
-
-Temperature: 70° to 90° F.
-
-Maturity: 8 to 10 months.
-
-Temperament: Exceedingly peaceful and friendly.
-
-_Labyrinth fish prefer shallow water—spawning tank not to exceed 6″—tank
-for fry not to exceed 4″._
-
-
- PARADISE: MACROPODUS OPERCULARIS
- (South China)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Body dark with vertical bars of deep red against bluish green
- background. Fins similar in color, caudal deep red. Female—shorter
- fins, color very pale during mating.
-
-Breeding Habits: Bubble nest builder. When pair have mated (frequently
- after the death of several undesirable females) the male builds a
- floating nest of bubbles. Male coaxes female under nest, winds
- himself about her, a gentle pressure expelling eggs. He then
- gathers eggs in his mouth and blows them into nest. Falling eggs
- and young fry are carefully blown back into nest by male. Remove
- female when spawning is over. Fry appear within 36 hours. Remove
- male in about 4 days.
-
-Temperature: 50° to 90° F.
-
-Maturity: About 12 months.
-
-Temperament: Vicious, keep pair separated except when spawning. (see
- Bettas.)
-
-Labyrinth Fish (Gourami, Paradise, Bettas) are air breathers, coming to
-the surface every few minutes for a bubble of air. For this reason they
-can stand crowding, providing water is kept clear. Fry do not develop
-this characteristic for several weeks so must be provided with a large
-shallow container with ample oxygen.
-
-
- BETTAS: SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH
- (Siam)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: This attractive group (all hybrids of BETTA SPLENDENS) have many
- color variations, all exceptionally attractive. BETTA CAMBODIA:
- gold colored body—bright red fins. Those with most red in body
- known as BETTA RUBRA. BETTA CYANA—body and fins iridescent
- cornflower blue. Others often have various shades of blue, green,
- red and purple predominating. Females—subdued in color and lack
- long flowing fins.
-
-Breeding Habits: Bubble nest builders—Male builds floating nest of
- bubbles 3 to 6 inches in diameter. Female is coaxed and forced
- under nest, male embraces her expelling eggs. Male catches eggs
- and blows them into bubble nest. Remove female. Fry hatch in 48
- hours. Remove male in 10 days. Do not crowd fry.
-
-Temperature: 65° to 90° F. 80° F. best for spawning.
-
-Maturity: 8 to 10 months.
-
-Temperament: Savage—two males will fight to a finish. Siamese wager on
- outcome of these battles. Not advisable to keep mated pairs
- together except when spawning. Separate pairs with glass placed
- diagonally across aquarium. When spawning, if male attacks female
- too viciously, replace glass.
-
-(_One of these fish may be kept in Community Tank—they seem to attack
-only their own species._)
-
-
- PANCHAX FROM MADRAS: PANCHAX PARVUS
- (India)
-
- [Illustration: average size]
-
-Color: Male, rich deep greenish olive, sides covered with rows of
- gleaming red and green spots, anal bright orange and red. Dorsal
- and caudal are of similar colors. Female—dull with light orange
- fins.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers, spawn readily in small tank, riccia being a
- favorite plant for this purpose.
-
-Temperature: 72° to 80° F.
-
-Temperament: peaceful.
-
-
- RASBORA HETEROMORPHA: (below)
- (Sumatra)
-
-Color: Silvery copper with large blue-black triangle from dorsal to
- caudal base. Dorsal and caudal red. Scales above black triangle
- wider on male.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Difficult to breed. Female swims upside down
- against leaf of Cryptocoryne, expelling eggs, most of which drop
- to bottom. Remove parents after spawning. Fry hatch in about 2
- days and resemble zebra fry. Swim freely in about 5 days. Use 3
- males and 2 females. Do not have aquarium in direct rays of sun.
-
-Temperature: 72° to 85° F.
-
-Maturity: Breed at 10 months.
-
-Temperament: Peaceful.
-
-
- CATFISH: CORYDORAS PALEATUS
- (South America)
-
- [Illustration: 1 to 2 inches]
-
-Color: Shining olive green, towards the anal: yellowish to white. Body
- covered with dark spots changing according to the surroundings.
- Average size: 1 to 2 inches.
-
-Breeding Habits: Egg layer. Distinguishing sex marks: male smaller than
- female, and has pointed ventral fins, which are in the female,
- rounded. Best breeding results are obtained in a large aquarium.
- Two to three males for one female. Temperature 75 to 80 degrees.
- 60 to 500 eggs are carried by female in her ventral fins to a
- clean spot which can be the glass of the aquarium, a plant or
- stone. Babies hatch after 6 to 9 days. The opinion of breeders is
- divided as to whether parents should be removed. Good results were
- obtained either way.
-
-Temperament: Paleatus Catfish are the most peaceful fish and very
- essential for the maintenance of every balanced aquarium. They are
- regarded as the officers of the “Dept. of Sanitation” among
- successful aquarists. Paleatus is a ground fish, tirelessly
- picking up food remnants and left-overs which other fish do not
- eat. Through this activity, Paleatus helps to keep the food
- particles from contaminating the water. Catfish dart up to the
- surface to breathe atmospheric air.
-
-
- WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN FISH: TANICHTHYS ALBONUBES
- (China)
-
-Color: Form and color similar to Pearl Danio but with gold and blue line
- from eye to caudal fin, dorsal and caudal fins deep red, male has
- white tip above red caudal fins.
-
-Breeding Habits: Average temperature 80 degrees. Eggs not adhesive. One
- female to two males, eggs hatch after two to three days. Remove
- parents after spawning. Tiny fry must be supplied with infusoria
- or better still, Brine Shrimp (see p. 27).
-
-Temperament: Peaceful and hearty, “called poorman’s Neon Tetra” since
- the bright colored babies closely resemble Neon Tetras.
-
-
- WHITE PARADISE: ALBINO PARADISE
-
-Color: Generally white and the red bars show faintly. Like most albinos
- their eyes are pink.
-
-Breeding Habits: Just like their original form, the Red Paradise. The
- albino color breeds true. (See page 23.)
-
-
- BLACK TETRA: GYMNOCORYMBUS TERNETZI
- (Paraguay)
-
-Color: Same size like Tetra from Rio but black in color.
-
-Breeding Habits and Temperament also like Tetra from Rio. (see page 16.)
-
-
- BLUE MOLLY: MOLLIENISIA SPHENOPS
-
-Color: Sphenops are found in various color schemes varying from jet
- black to pure light blue, very often blue body with scattered
- black spots. The caudal of male adorned with bright orange border.
-
-Breeding Habits: Heartier and more easily bred than ordinary Black
- Mollies.
-
-
- LIBERTY MOLLY: VAR. SPHENOPS
-
-Color: Body color of male and female light blue, but males dorsal shows
- “red, white and blue”.
-
-Breeding Habits: (see page 11.)
-
-
- GOLD FISH:
-
- [Illustration: _Veiltail_]
-
-History: The Gold Fish, the oldest and most popular of our numerous
- Aquarium Fish, was developed by the Chinese during the Sung
- Dynasty (960-1278) from the wild Carassius Auratus to the various
- varieties now familiar to us.
-
-In the year 1750 Madame de Pompadour imported the first Goldfish into
-France as showpieces for the ornamental waterpools in her vast gardens.
-In 1856, P. T. Barnum was sent by The American Museum to search for
-oddities in Europe and to study the then popular fad of keeping live
-fish in aquariums. Thus our now familiar Goldfish made its debut in
-America. With its golden beauty and its sturdiness, the Goldfish quickly
-became the Parlor Pet of our parents and grandparents. Today the sales
-of American-bred Goldfish run into the millions.
-
-It would be beyond the limits of this booklet to explain and fully
-describe all the various forms and color variations of our goldfish, as
-there are Comets, Fantails, Shubunkins, Black Moors, etc. Most Goldfish
-do not reach their full life span of 4 to 6 years and often more,
-because they are fed too much and are given too little “Living Space.”
-Feed your fish only once a day during the morning and make sure that all
-food is consumed within 10 to 15 minutes. Any surplus food will fall to
-the bottom and will contaminate the water. The surest sign of
-overfeeding is cloudy and milky looking water. This bad water is poor in
-oxygen and the fish will hang on the surface and frantically gasp for
-atmospheric air. Any nationally known brand of Goldfish food will be
-suitable for your fish, but once more: DO NOT OVERFEED. The proper size
-of the aquarium should be comparable to the amount of fish or vice
-versa. The happy medium is about 1 small fish per gallon of water. An
-aquarium of five gallons capacity can, therefore, hold no more than 4 to
-5 small Goldfish, but fish of larger size must have much larger space.
-The most suitable temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees, Fahrenheit.
-
-Breeding Hints: During the breeding season which falls during the first
- seven months of the year, the male will show small warts of pin
- point size on his gill plates. The female is shorter than the male
- but fuller in body, more so, when carrying spawn. A mature fish is
- about 3-10 inches long, depending on type and a pair must
- therefore have a breeding aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The
- fish will spawn on myriophyllum, long rooted water hyacinths, or
- other soft bunchy plants and the eggs will hatch in about 4-7
- days. Since the parent fish like to eat their own spawn, it is
- therefore advisable to remove either the parents or the plants
- with their adhering eggs. The newly hatched babies are fed with
- infusoria and later on with fish food of a fine grain.
-
-Diseases: Fin Congestion and Fungus are the most frequent Goldfish
- diseases. Their best cure is the salt treatment which is described
- on page 33.
-
-
- TURTLES
-
- [Illustration: {Turtle aquarium}]
-
-Baby turtles are very easily kept as pets and require little care. While
-in captivity, Turtles will forget their time schedule and will not
-hibernate. Any round or oval bowl, an aquarium or a flat pan with a rim
-sufficiently high to prevent the turtle from crawling out, is an
-adequate home. In this container, place white or colored pebbles, and in
-the center a flat stone. Fill the container with clean water of room
-temperature (60 to 80 degrees, fahrenheit) but see to it that the stone
-is not covered by the water for it will serve as an “Island” and thus
-give the turtle a chance to leave the wet element when desired. The best
-place for the bowl is in a light place, but special care should be taken
-to see that the bowl is not exposed too long to the direct sun. Ant
-Eggs, commonly packed as “Turtle Food” will mainly be their diet but
-lean raw beef, which is finely scraped, will be an appreciated change.
-The same applies for green lettuce, rainworms, etc. A variation in food
-and sunshine will prevent blindness, but should a turtle get a white
-film over its eyes, a few drops of Cod liver Oil forced by a medicine
-dropper in its mouth, might help. Boric acid swabbed over the eyes will
-also be beneficial. Turtles will not feed “on land” therefore all food
-should be placed in the water. Water should be changed two to three
-times weekly.
-
-
-
-
- HEALTH
-
-
-It is much easier to keep fish healthy than to cure them.
-
-Disturb your fish as little as possible.
-
-Fish in good health are active and keep dorsal fin erect. (Folded fins
-for a short period do not mean a sick fish.)
-
-Most fish ills develop from chills. Keep fish above lowest safe
-temperature. Young fry especially should be kept warm.
-
-Avoid extremes of temperature. Avoid sudden changes of temperature.
-Provide some type of aquarium heater for cold months.
-
-Do not crowd fish—be sure plants are thriving and there is ample oxygen
-in water.
-
-Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen. Remove
-part of water and replace with fresh of same temperature.
-
-Dying plants cause much trouble—be sure plants are healthy and growing.
-
-It is much easier to keep fish healthy in a large tank (above 5
-gallons). A large tank maintains a more uniform temperature, allows more
-air surface, plants thrive better, and water is not fouled so easily by
-excess food.
-
-An aquarium can be maintained in healthy condition, both plants and fish
-thriving, under artificial lighting furnished by an ordinary light bulb.
-
-Vary the diet for the fish. Feed only as much as they will eat in ten
-minutes. Feed sparingly and several times a day if necessary. Use glass
-feeding ring. (Fig. 4). All uneaten food drops to one spot where it can
-be easily removed with a dip tube.
-
-Health and growth of fry depend upon oxygen supply. Use tank with large
-air surface. BE SURE AND DO NOT CROWD YOUNG FRY. Crowding stunts growth
-and frequently causes disease, and loss of whole brood. Fry demand
-approximately same amount of water as adults—see page 31.
-
- [Illustration: FIG·4]
-
- [Illustration: Tropicals in poor condition, (usually indicated by
- folded fins).
- Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen.]
-
- [Illustration: SEVERAL HOURS DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY
- Always keep glass cover on aquarium.
- Always keep a thermometer in aquarium.]
-
- [Illustration: Never give fish more food than they can clean up in
- ten minutes.]
-
-
-
-
- FOOD
-
-
-Do Not Overfeed—Never give fish more food than they can clean up in ten
-minutes.
-
-Vary the Diet—Have several kinds of food on hand at all times. Dried
-Shrimp, Dried Daphnae, scrapings from raw beef, bits of canned salmon,
-bits of boiled spinach, finely crumbed graham cracker, bits of yolk of
-boiled egg, and most of the prepared foods are excellent but should be
-supplemented with some form of live food. Once a week they should be fed
-chopped earth worms or Enchytrae (White worms). Feed live bearer’s fry
-small quantity of fine foods several times a day. Feed egg layer’s fry
-Brine Shrimp twice a day the first couple weeks and then feed same as
-live bearer’s fry.
-
-Several Feedings a Day—Feeding a very small quantity of food several
-times a day (what the fish will clean up in several minutes) is probably
-more desirable than one feeding providing great care is taken not to
-feed too much at one time.
-
-Tropicals Will Not Overeat—Unlike goldfish, tropicals will eat only as
-much as they need but great care must be exercised in order to allow no
-uneaten food in the aquarium to foul the water and cause disease.
-
-Tubifex worms are found in fresh water streams and rivers, close to
-shore in soft loamy bottom. They are an excellent live food provided
-they are fed to the fish with care. Keep in cool place in container
-having large air surface with just enough water to cover them. Since
-they bury themselves in the gravel, it is best to feed them to the fish
-with a worm feeder. The best type of feeder has a quantity of small
-holes through which the worms wriggle into the mouths of the fish
-eagerly waiting below. For baby fish it is best to cut the worms into
-small pieces.
-
-Enchytrae (White Worms) multiply rapidly in a wooden box (about 10″
-square) filled with about 5″ of rich loamy soil. Portion of worms is
-placed in soil and whole mass kept fairly moist. Feed slice of bread
-soaked in sweet or sour milk every 3 or 4 days. Be sure all food is
-covered with at least 1″ of soil. Before feeding be sure all old food is
-consumed. They may be fed cooked oatmeal or mashed potatoes WITHOUT
-SALT. Stir soil once a week to aerate it and prevent souring. Cover soil
-with piece of glass to keep moisture in. Keep in cool dark place.
-
-BRINE SHRIMP—To raise Egglaying Fish, the use of Brine Shrimp (fig. 5)
-replaces the old fashioned Infusoria method more and more. Brine Shrimp
-Eggs are available in any good pet shop and are easily hatched.
-Directions for hatching Brine Shrimp Eggs are found on package.
-
-
-
-
- DISEASE
-
-
-Tropical Fish are naturally healthy. If kept in a healthy aquarium, fed
-properly and kept warm little or no trouble will be experienced. In
-short—IT IS EASIER TO KEEP FISH HEALTHY THAN TO CURE THEM.
-
-Practically all diseases are due to one of the following: UNHEALTHY
-TANK—water too acid or alkaline—lack of oxygen—decomposition of
-food—plants not thriving. IMPROPER FEEDING—Overfeeding, lack of live
-food, lack of variation in diet. CHILL—the cause of most fish ills. Fish
-is weakened and subject to diseases, many incurable.
-
-Ichthyopthirius (Ich): A parasite that attacks the fish. Recognized by
-tiny white spot on fins. Fish have fins folded and scratch themselves on
-sand. Contagious. Treat whole tank (plants and snails need not be
-removed). Raise temperature to 80° F. Add about two drops 2%
-Mercurochrome to each gallon of water. If fish are not cured in 3 or 4
-days repeat treatment.
-
-Shimmy: A wagging movement without changing position is usually the
-result of a chill affecting digestive organs. Not contagious—give salt
-treatment.
-
-Dropsy: Body swells, scales stand out at an angle. Fish act normal until
-a few days before death. Salt treatment sometimes brings relief. Cure
-doubtful.
-
-Wounds or Ulcers: Wrap piece of cotton on toothpick; hold fish in damp
-cloth and paint wound for 2 minutes with Mercurochrome twice a day. Do
-not allow Mercurochrome to touch gills.
-
-Constipation: 1 tablespoon Epsom Salts to 5 gallons of water.
-
-Air Bladder Trouble: Caused by sudden temperature change. Fish swim
-either at top or stay near bottom. Cure unknown.
-
-Blood Shot Fins—Tailrot: Condition caused by sudden temperature change
-or injury. Use salt treatment.
-
-Fungus—White scum forms over fish. Use salt treatment.
-
-Fluke: Flat and sunken belly. No known cure.
-
-Salt Treatment: Use glass or enamel container, raise temperature to 80°
-F., 1 teaspoonful rock or sea salt per gallon of water. (May be doubled
-in extreme cases.) Salt (Rock or Epsom) will kill snails and plants.
-
-Tropicals in poor condition, usually indicated by folded fins, should be
-isolated at once. Gradually raise temperature to 80° F. Feed live food.
-Give salt treatment. Frequently a cure is affected by placing ailing
-fish in tank of “green water.” (see page 31.)
-
-Sick fish more easily cured in shallow water.
-
-Sudden changes of temperature may be fatal to weakened fish.
-
-Potassium permanganate solution is an excellent disinfectant and
-deodorant. Also destroys algae in aquarium and pool. Tint water faint
-pink, repeat when color disappears. Avoid excess.
-
-
-
-
- ENEMIES
-
-
-Fish enemies are usually transferred to the aquarium by the introduction
-of new aquatic plants that are obtained from outside pools. To avoid
-fish enemies—AVOID USING PLANTS AND SAND THAT ARE OBTAINED FROM OUTSIDE
-POOLS OR PONDS. If you are suspicious of source rinse for a minute or
-two through a strong solution of salt water. This should kill all
-insects and not injure plants. Examine plants carefully for eggs. Fig. 6
-shows larvae of Giant Beetle (Water Tiger). Fig. 7, larvae of Dragon
-Fly. Both attack fairly large fish and devour small ones in quantities.
-
- [Illustration: FIG·5]
-
- [Illustration: FIG·6]
-
- [Illustration: FIG·7]
-
-HYDRA—a polyp, fastens itself to plants or glass. It has a variety of
-shapes and is hard to distinguish particularly on plants. It attacks and
-quickly drugs fish by injecting a poison. Hydra can be killed by
-removing all fish and scavengers and raising temperature of tank to 115°
-F.
-
-
-
-
- AERATION
-
-
-Replacing consumed oxygen by blowing a stream of very fine air bubbles
-through the aquarium water is frequently necessary in aquariums, where
-plants receive insufficient light or are not thriving, where the air
-surface is small (depth greater than width), where crowding is
-necessary, etc. Even in healthy aquariums, where plants are thriving,
-conditions will be improved by an hour or two of aeration daily. Many
-types of aerators are available.
-
-
-
-
- CONTROL OF ACIDITY AND ALKALINITY
-
-
-Due to the fact that in some localities the natural water supply is
-alkaline, in others neutral, and in others acid much has been written
-about controlling aquarium water.
-
-Many aquarists believe that a slightly acid condition in the aquarium is
-desirable.
-
-There are a number of reliable water testing sets available at very
-nominal prices.
-
-Most of the fish described in this book seem to thrive and breed better
-in slightly acid water (about pH6.8).
-
-
-
-
- HELPFUL HINTS
-
-
-Get your experience from the more common varieties first.
-
-Half grown fish are best to buy—you are sure of obtaining young fish,
-and it is interesting to watch them mature.
-
-Fish ready to spawn: Females become heavier. Also on live bearers the
-dark spot near vent becomes larger and darker. Males chase females
-continually at spawning time. Labyrinth male builds bubble nest.
-
-Live bearers are easiest to breed. Eggs are hatched within the female’s
-body and the young are born alive.
-
-Female live bearers seek secluded places to give birth to their young.
-If one corner of the community tank (toward light) is heavily planted,
-and ample floating plants provided, quite a few young will survive.
-These can be removed until old enough to return to community tank—in
-about 4 or 5 weeks, dependent on growth.
-
-Female live bearers will eat their young. If placed in separate tank
-remove female as soon as brood is produced.
-
-Female live bearers will produce several broods after being separated
-from male.
-
-Live bearer’s fry are sometimes born with an “egg sac,” usually the
-result of premature birth.
-
- [Illustration: Tools]
-
- NET
- GLASS FEEDING RING
- PLANTING TONGS
- THERMOMETERS
- PLANTING SNIPS
- AQUARIUM CLEANER
- DIP TUBE
-
- [Illustration: AVOID
- 1·SUDDEN TEMPERATURE CHANGE.
- 2·CROWDING LACK OF OXYGEN.
- 3·EXCESS FOOD.]
-
-To save young live bearers, females are frequently placed in a trap. Be
-sure female has ample room to swim freely. Many varieties of traps are
-available.
-
-To breed egg layers, male and female should be separated for several
-days before being placed in spawning tank.
-
-All fish are more prolific during warm weather.
-
-Practically all fish will eat young fry.
-
-Algae—a fine green plant growth—is caused by an excess of light. Remove
-as much of the growth as possible and reduce amount of light.
-
-Floating algae—green water—is caused by the same condition. Cut down
-light and condition usually clears itself. (See page 4.) Coloring water
-in tank a faint pink with a solution of potassium permanganate will
-usually clear this condition. Green water is actual healthy water for
-fish.
-
-Algae may be cleaned off glass by scraping with safety razor blade.
-(Fig. 8.)
-
-Cloudy water usually caused by improperly balanced tank. Remedy: more
-plants or less fish, better light, more scavengers, less food.
-
- [Illustration: FIG·8]
-
-Cloud at bottom of tank is usually caused by decaying of excess food.
-
-Plants thrive better in deep sand; roots spread and absorb decaying
-matter.
-
-Always use sea salt. Table salt is questionable since it is chemically
-treated to prevent caking.
-
-Tropicals thrive under more crowded conditions than goldfish. 2 or 3
-pairs per gallon in healthy aquarium, about 6″ fish body per gallon.
-
-Always sterilize net with boiling water after handling sick fish.
-
-Slow leaks in aquariums will usually be sealed by painting all inside
-and outside seams with liquid aquarium cement.
-
-To obtain number of gallons of water in tank—divide cubic contents in
-inches by 231.
-
-
-
-
- INDEX
-
-
- * Subjects marked * are illustrated
-
-
- A
- *Accessories 35
- Aeration 34
- *Aequidens Latifrons 20
- *African Snail 6
- Albino Paradise 27
- Algae 4, 36
- *Anacharis 5
- *Angel Fish 19
- *Aphyocharax Rubripinnis 15
- *Artemia 32
- Australian Snail 6
-
-
- B
- *Barbus Conchonius 14
- *Barbus Oligolepis 14
- *Betta 24
- *Black Mollienisia 11
- *Black Tetra 27
- *Blood Fin 15
- *Blue Acara 20
- *Blue Gourami 22
- Blue Molly 27
- *Breeding Trap 35
- *Brine Shrimp 32
-
-
- C
- *Catfish 26
- Characins 2, 15, 16, 17
- Cichlids 2, 18, 19, 20, 21
- *Clams 6
- *Cabomba 5
- *Colisa Lalia 22
- Coral Snail 6
- *Corydoras Paleatus 26
- Cryptocoryne 5
- *Ctenobrycon Spilurus 15
- Cyprinodontidae 2, 12, 25
-
-
- D
- *Danio Albolineatus 13
- *Danio Malabaricus 13
- *Danio Rerio 12
- *Dip Tube 4
- Disease 33
- *Dragon Fly Larvae 34
- Dropsy 33
- *Duck Weed 5
- *Dwarf Gourami 22
-
-
- E
- Electric Lighting 30
- Enchytrae 32
- Enemies 34
- *Etroplus Maculatus 21
-
-
- F
- Families 2
- Featherfins 17
- *Feeding Rings 31
- Food 32
- *Fresh Water Mussel 6
-
-
- G
- *Giant Danio 13
- *Golden Danio 12
- *Goldfish 28, 29
- *Guppy 7
- *Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi 27
-
-
- H
- *Hair Grass 5
- *Haplochromis Strigigena 21
- Happy Family 2
- *Head & Tail Light 17
- Health 29
- *Helleri 3
- *Hemichromis Bimaculatus 18
- *Hemigrammus Caudovittatus 16
- *Hemigrammus Ocellifer 17
- Hemigrammus Unilineatus 17
- *Heterandria Formosa 7
- Hydra 34
- Hyphessobrycon Flameus 16
-
-
- I
- Ich 33
- Ichthyopthirius 33
- Infusoria 32
-
-
- J
- *Jewel Fish 18
-
-
- L
- Labyrinth 2, 22, 23, 24
- *Lebistes Reticulatus 7
- Liberty Molly 27
- Live Bearers 2, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 27
- Ludwigia 5
-
-
- M
- *Macropodus Opercularis 29
- *Medaka 12
- *Melantho Snail 6
- *Mollienisia Latipinna 10
- *Mollienisia Sphenops 27
- *Moons Gold 9
- Red 9
- Blue 9
- Black 9
- Wagtail 9
- *Mosquito Fish 7
- *Mouth Breeder 21
- *Myriophyllum 5
-
-
- O
- *Orange Chromide 21
- *Oryzias Latipes 12
-
-
- P
- *Paleatus 26
- *Panchax 25
- *Paradise 23
- *Pearl Danio 13
- pH 34
- Planting 3
- *Platy 9
- *Platy Variatus 9
- *Platypoecilia 9
- *Pond Snail 6
- Preparing the Aquarium 3
- *Pristella Riddlei 17
- *Pterophyllum Scalare 19
-
-
- R
- *Rasbora Heteromorpha 25
- Riccia 5
- *Rosy Barb 14
-
-
- S
- *Sagittaria 5
- *Sailfin 10
- *Salamander American 6
- *Salvinia 5
- Schuberti 14
- *Shrimp 32
- *Siamese Fighting Fish 24
- *Silver Tetra 15
- *Siphon 4
- *Snails 6
- *Southern Spatterdock 5
- Sphenops 27
- *Swordtail 8
-
-
- T
- Tanichthys Albonubes 27
- *Tetra from Buenos Aires 16
- *Tetra From Rio 16
- *Three-Spot Gourami 22
- *Trichogaster Sumatranus 22
- *Trumpet Snail 6
- Tubifex Worms 32
- Turtles 30
-
-
- V
- *Vallisneria 5
-
-
- W
- Wagtail, Platies 9
- Water Control 34
- *Water Tiger 34
- White Cloud Mountain Fish 27
- White Paradise 27
- White Worms 32
-
-
- X
- *Xiphophorus Helleri 8
- *Zebra Fish 12
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Silently corrected a few typos.
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
- is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's Tropical Fish Handbook, by Guenther-Lothar Schott
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