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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0cc4d37 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #62463 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/62463) diff --git a/old/62463-0.txt b/old/62463-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index cedc181..0000000 --- a/old/62463-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2081 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Tropical Fish Handbook, by Guenther-Lothar Schott - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Tropical Fish Handbook - Tenth Edition, 1953 - -Author: Guenther-Lothar Schott - -Release Date: June 24, 2020 [EBook #62463] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK - - - GOLDFISH - AND - 31 POPULAR TROPICALS - ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED - - “_Twice happy is the man who has a Hobby, - He has Two Worlds to Live in._” - - - - - TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK - - -A book of practical information for the beginner, containing -illustrations and descriptions of Tropical Fish, Goldfish, Scavengers, -Turtles and Aquarium Accessories. - - [Illustration: {Tropical lake scene}] - - _Tenth Edition 1953_ - - Copyright 1945 - By - GUENTHER L. SCHOTT - New York, N. Y. - - PRINTED IN U. S. A. - - - - -For the beginner, the happy family collection is of most interest. Here -in one large tank he can observe the interesting habits, shapes and -colors of a great variety of fish. If he desires he may remove them to -separate tanks during breeding periods. The danger of cross breeding in -the community tank is practically eliminated by the presence of a pair -of each species. - -The following fish are discussed in this handbook, those marked * being -recommended for the community tank. - - _Bad tempered fish may appear in some normally peaceful species and - vice versa._ - - _Also fish which may make trouble in a small aquarium may be peaceful - in a large well planted one._ - -Live Bearers (young are born alive) *Guppy, *Swordtail, *Moon or Platy, - *Sailfin, *Black Mollienisia, *Helleri, *Mosquito Fish, *Platy - Variatus. - -Labyrinth (breathe air taken from surface, bubble nest builders) - Paradise, Bettas, *Dwarf Gourami, Three-Spot Gourami. - -Cichlids (Egg layers, guard eggs and fry) Jewel Fish, *Angel Fish, Mouth - Breeder, Blue Acara, Orange Chromide. - -Danios (Egg droppers) *Zebra, *Pearl Danio, *Giant Danio. - -Barbs (spawn on plants like goldfish) *Rosy Barb, *Barbus Oligolepis. - -Characins (Deposit adhesive eggs on plants) *Silver Tetra, *Tetra Von - Buenos Aires, *Tetra Von Rio, *Blood Fin, *Pristella Riddlei, - *Head and Tail Light. *Featherfins, *Black Tetra, *Neon Tetra. - -Cyprinodontidae (Egg droppers) *Medaka, *Panchax. - -Cyprinidae (Egg droppers) *Rasbora. - - [Illustration: The above illustration will assist the reader in - locating the markings of the fish described in this book.] - - DORSAL - CAUDAL - PECTORAL - ANAL - VENTRAL - - - - - PREPARING THE BALANCED AQUARIUM - - -Much of the future enjoyment of your aquarium will depend upon the care -with which it is selected, and its proper location. - -The aquarium should be rectangular, and the depth should not exceed its -width. The larger the tank the more satisfaction you will receive from -it—it is easier to balance, maintains a more uniform temperature, and -allows space to add to your collection. - -The principles of the balanced aquarium are very simple. Fish breathe -oxygen (which they obtain from the water) and exhale carbon dioxide. -Thriving plants absorb the carbon from the carbon dioxide and liberate -the oxygen. This maintains a high oxygen content in the water necessary -to maintain healthy fish. No balanced aquarium can be maintained without -scavengers to consume bits of decaying food and plants. Fish, plants and -scavengers depend upon each other in the balanced aquarium. - -Aquarium should be located where it will receive one or two hours of -direct sunshine daily and plenty of strong light all day. When aquarium -is located cover bottom with one or two inches of well washed coarse -sand. (For practical purposes sand may be considered well washed when -water runs clear.) Be sure that aquarium has been carefully washed -before introducing sand. Sand and aquarium may be washed in strong -solution of rock salt—RINSE THOROUGHLY. - -Now fill aquarium about half full of water and set in plants. Be sure -that over one half your plants are excellent oxygenators. Vallisneria -and Sagittaria should not have crowns buried when planting. Plant tall -plants in back or in corners and smaller ones in front. You cannot use -too many plants—BUT ONLY GROWING AND HEALTHY PLANTS LIBERATE OXYGEN. - -Fill tank, pouring water on piece of paper floating on top or into cup -submerged in tank to avoid uprooting plants. Allow water to stand 24 -hours. Be sure it is the right temperature for fish it will contain. Add -snails and scavengers. PROVIDE GLASS COVER as tropicals are noted for -their jumping ability. Some type of heater should be provided for the -aquarium, in order to maintain a uniform temperature during the winter -months. - -Fish may now be introduced, care being taken not to place too many fish -in a new tank until plants have had sufficient time to multiply. The -dissolution of uneaten food, dead snails, plants, etc., frequently -produces more food than can be consumed by the plant life present. At -this point Algae frequently steps in and the tank becomes green or -cloudy and foul smelling. - -To avoid this condition, avoid too many fish in aquarium, siphon off -dirt on bottom frequently, remove plants that are not thriving, cut down -light when thread algae becomes a nuisance. - -Water in a balanced aquarium will remain crystal clear for months. - -Always keep glass cover on aquarium. It helps maintain a more uniform -temperature, and keeps fish from jumping out. It may be raised slightly -but this is not necessary. - -Always use net in handling fish. - -Do not use pebbles in aquarium—food gets into crevices where scavengers -cannot reach it—causing water to foul. - -Always keep a thermometer in aquarium. - -Avoid metals in aquarium. Lead is safe as it does not dissolve. - -Rooted plants should not have crowns buried when planting—Fig. 1. - -KEEP BOTTOM OF AQUARIUM CLEAN—remove all sediment with dip tube—Fig. 2. - -To remove water—use either automatic siphon—Fig. 3—or siphon with rubber -hose. - - [Illustration: FIG·1] - - [Illustration: FIG·2] - - [Illustration: FIG·3] - - [Illustration: {Plants}] - - ANACHARIS. LUDWIGIA. VALLISNERIA. SAGITTARIA. CABOMBA. - DUCK WEED. - HAIR GRASS. SOUTHERN VALLISNERIA. MYRIOPHYLLUM. SALVINIA. - SPATTERDOCK. - - - - - PLANTS - - -Anacharis: Fair oxygenator—planted or floating—needs abundance of light. - -Ludwigia: Fair oxygenator. Leaves—top green, underneath red. - -Sagittaria: Excellent oxygenators, three varieties: NATANS—long narrow - leaves; GIGANTEA—broad stocky 8″ leaves; SUBULATA—(dwarf) 4″ to 6″ - narrow leaves. - -Cabomba: Little value as oxygenator—fanlike green leaves. - -Hair Grass: Fair oxygenator—rapidly covers floor with 4″ grassy needles. - -Southern Spatterdock: Ornamental—broad bright green leaves. - -Vallisneria: Excellent oxygenator—15″ long—multiplies rapidly by - runners. - -Myriophyllum: Ornamental—excellent for spawn of adhesive egg layers. - -Salvinia: Floating—¼″ leaves covered with velvety hairs. - -Duck Weed: Ornamental bright green floating plant. - -Riccia: Very fine bright green floating plant—valuable in spawning - bubble nest builders, especially Dwarf Gourami. - -Cryptocoryne: Leaves top dark green, underside dark red. Needs some - soil, slow grower. Very decorative and necessary in spawning some - species. - - [Illustration: {Scavengers}] - - WEATHER FISH BLACK RAMSHORN SNAIL - POND SNAIL AMERICAN SALAMANDER - CLAM or FRESH WATER MUSSEL AFRICAN SNAIL - MELANTHO SNAIL - - - - - SCAVENGERS - - -Melantho (Trumpet) Snail: Very active—multiplies rapidly—consumes algae. - -Pond Snail: Very active and useful—a fast moving fellow. - -Black Ramshorn Snail: Multiplies rapidly—excellent scavenger. - -Coral Snail: Same as Ramshorn with coral red body, and shell. - -African Snail: Good scavenger—light yellow brown—dark spots. - -Australian Snail: Similar to Pond but bright scarlet in color—very - active. - -Catfish: (Corydoras Paleatus) most popular scavenger. Look for full - description on page 26. - -American Salamander: Brown with red and black spots—vest yellow and - brown. - -Clam or Fresh Water Mussel: Filters all floating matter from water - leaving it crystal clear. Must have large tank or pool and several - inches of sand in which to work. - -Snails will eat eggs of egg-laying fish. -To breed snails—place in separate tank and feed lettuce. Well fed snails - lay an abundance of eggs, resembling a gelatin like mass attached - to plants and glass. Fish will eat snail eggs. Salt will kill - snails—when using salt treatment remove snails. - - - MOSQUITO FISH: HETERANDRIA FORMOSA - (Southern U. S.) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Numerous black bands adorn gray sides—black horizontal line - extends from eye to caudal. Red edged dark spot on dorsal. - -Breeding Habits: Live bearers—Females produce several young every few - days during breeding season. Young are hardy and mature in about 6 - months. - -Temperature: 65° to 75° F. - -Temperament: Peaceful. - - - GUPPY: (below) LEBISTES RETICULATUS (Venezuela) - -Color: Male—two males are never precisely alike. Every color of the - rainbow is present, intermingled with irregular black spots and - bars. Female—dull grayish green. - -Breeding Habits: Live Bearers—mature females produce from 35 to 50 live - young every 5 weeks. Presence of young is indicated by darkened - area anterior to anal fin. “Heavy” females may be removed to - separate vessel, heavily stocked with plants—particularly floating - plants toward light. When young are born they seek safety among - plants. Remove female to prevent her eating young. Young are ready - to take fine food in a few hours. Guppy seem to thrive under - fairly crowded conditions. - -Temperature: Thrive and breed at 65° to 80° F. - -Maturity: Males 2 to 3 months—Females 4 month. Males less hardy. - -Temperament: Very peaceful. Males very active. - - - SWORDTAIL: XIPHOPHORUS HELLERI - (Mexico) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Male—body blue green, red line on side. Large dorsal with reddish - dots. Ornamental sword may be yellow, orange or green, edged with - black. Female—resembles male in color, lacks sword. (Both male and - female CRESCENT SWORDTAIL have black crescent at base of caudal.) - -Breeding Habits: Live bearers—have 25 to 100 live young every 6 or 7 - weeks. When female is “heavy” place her in large vessel heavily - stocked with plants. Young swim from mother, seeking safety among - plants usually at bottom toward light. Remove female—she will eat - fry. - -Temperature: 70° to 85° F. Breed best at 75° F. - -Maturity: Breed at about 9 months. Male resembles female until full - grown; then anal changes to reproducing organ and “sword” - develops. - -Temperament: Very peaceful. Due to rivalry, stronger male will bully - others. - - - HELLERI (below) (Gold, Red and Black) - -Mating a virgin female Swordtail and Platy male, the young inherit the -general color of the male and body type of the female, often becoming -larger than either parent. Some males develop short sword. A percentage -of the offspring are sterile. - - - PLATYPOECILIA VARIATUS (above) - (Mexico) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Large dorsal, yellow with black edge, caudal reddish, body - various colors intermingled. Female, similar to female swordtail - in color and markings. Male has spot resembling gravid spot on - female. Color and markings vary. - -Breeding Habits: Live bearers (same as swordtails). Do not breed true to - color. - -Temperature: 72° to 80° F. - -Maturity: 5 to 8 months. - -Temperament: Peaceful, very hardy. - - - MOONS OR PLATY PLATYPOECILIA (Mexico) - -Color: RED MOON—deep rich red. GOLD MOON—gold body, red dorsal fin, BLUE - MOON—blue body, black crescent at base of caudal. (Black Crescent - may appear on Red and Gold Moons.) BLACK MOON—black body sometimes - with greenish sheen, also found with red heads, (Black Helmet - Moon), GOLD WAGTAIL—Gold body with black fins and black caudal. - RED WAGTAILS—deep red body with black fins and black caudal. - -Breeding Habits: Live bearers—15 to 30 young every 6 to 9 weeks. - Breeding habits same as swordtails, except most young moons come - to top. Cross breeding with swordtail common, producing beautiful - hybrids (HELLERI) larger than either parent and assuming color of - male (MOON). - -Temperature: 70° to 80° F. Maturity: 4 to 6 months. - -Temperament: Very peaceful. Fry must be kept very warm. - - - SAILFIN: MOLLIENISIA LATIPINNA - (Southern U. S., Northern Mexico) - - [Illustration: About one half size] - -Color: Male—body olive green, black stitching; large dorsal fin - (sailfin) lavender and orange spotted with black; caudal, orange - and light blue. Female—similar to male but without large dorsal. - -Breeding Habits: Live bearers—have 20 to 100 young at irregular - intervals. All Mollienisia are hardy but females must not be moved - to another tank when young are expected. This frequently causes - young to be born prematurely and few will survive. Moving female - or undue excitement at this time may cause death of female. - Provide ample vegetation in tank. Sailfins are not very - cannibalistic but it is always safest to remove fry for several - weeks. Young are ⅜″ long when born. - -Temperature: 45° to 85° F. Breed best at 70° F. - -Maturity: 9 months. - -Temperament: Very peaceful. - - In breeding Mollienisia, no two varieties should be kept in the same - tank as they will cross breed. Each variety should be provided with a - separate tank. (This is also true of the moons). Only very careful - intelligent selective breeding has produced the Black Mollienisia, - later the Sailfin Black Molly, and most recently, Black Molly Sailfin - with an orange bordered dorsal. - - - BLACK MOLLIENISIA: - (Southern U. S.) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Both male and female coal black. - -Breeding Habits: Live bearers—15 to 25 young born at irregular intervals - throughout the year. Young when born are large and black. Turn - gray in a few weeks and then gradually turn black. Female should - never be moved when young are expected—as this usually results in - loss of young and frequently loss of female. (See Sailfin). Young - are fairly safe with parents if ample floating plants are - provided. “Mollies” are algae eaters. Black Mollienisia have been - crossed with Sailfins producing the beautiful BLACK MOLLIENISIA - SAILFIN. - -Temperature: 65° to 80° F. Breed best at 75° F. - -Maturity: Good male becomes black in about 6 months. Female about 18 - months. Breed at 9 months. Males less hardy. - -Temperament: Very peaceful. - - “Mollies” are heavy eaters, and largely vegetarians. Some algae should - be present. - - - MEDAKA: (above) ORYZIAS LATIPES - (China) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Male and female light lemon yellow. Male slim like - Zebra—sometimes called “Golden Danio.” Female—slightly heavier. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—these interesting and attractive fish are - the easiest of the egg layers to breed. Eggs cluster about anal - region of female like bunch of grapes. Here they are carried for - several hours and later brushed off on plants where they become - attached. Eggs can be easily seen hanging to plants. Fish seldom - bother eggs but it is safest to remove plants containing eggs to - another jar. Fry hatch in 10 to 14 days. Feed fry infusoria. Never - have snails in tank containing fish eggs. - -Temperature: 45° to 80° F. Spawn best at 70° F. - -Maturity: Mature in about 6 mos. - -Temperament: Very peaceful. - - - ZEBRA: DANIO RERIO (Ceylon) - -Color: Both male and female striped from eyes through tail with - alternate lines of blue and silver. Underparts of male slightly - yellowish—female silvery white. Female—deeper in body. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—non-adhesive eggs fall to bottom. Cover - bottom of breeding tank with several layers ½″ pebbles or glass - marbles, not over 3 inches of water above marbles. Place male and - female (kept separate several days) in prepared tank. Spawning - usually takes place within 24 hours. Spawning is preceded by very - fast swimming. Remove parents after spawning. Fry hatch in 2 to 8 - days. Feed fry infusoria. - -Temperature: 45° to 80° F. - -Maturity: Breed when 4 to 5 months. - -Temperament: Peaceful, swim in school, constantly moving. -(See Pearl Danio.) - - - PEARL DANIO (above): DANIO ALBOLINEATUS - (Burma) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Iridescent mother-of-pearl and opal tints. Dull red line through - center of body and tail. Female—slightly heavier. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—prepare aquarium same as for Zebra. Long - tank best for both. As they snatch eggs when they turn, long tank - eliminates many turns. Advisable to use two males to one female. - (See Zebra.) - -Temperature and Temperament: Same as Zebra. - -Maturity: 6 to 8 months. - - - GIANT DANIO DANIO MALABARICUS - (Malabar Coast) - -Color: Deep metallic blue with two horizontal stripes of yellow gold. -Female—slightly heavier. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—very small semi-adhesive eggs deposited on - plants. Fry need great amount of food. Remove parents after - spawning. (see Rosy Barb.) - -Temperature: 60° to 80° F. - -Maturity: 8 to 10 months. - -Temperament: Peaceful, but will attack small fish. - - Danios (Zebra, Pearl and Giant) are always active, and are large - consumers of oxygen, therefore are more susceptible to the effects of - lack of sufficient oxygen in the aquarium. Being fast swimmers and - especially fond of their own eggs, water in the breeding tank should - not exceed 6 inches and they should be removed as soon as spawning is - over. - - - ROSY BARB: BARBUS CONCHONIUS - (India) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Silvery green, dark spot at base of caudal. Male has black dash - on dorsal and takes on rosy hue during spawning season. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—lay eggs on fine plants similar to goldfish. - Stock aquarium well with fine plants like Myriophyllum or Cabomba, - weight down ends with a stone. Separate male and female for a few - days. Spawning usually takes place within 48 hours after pair is - placed together. After spawning is completed remove plants - containing eggs and place in tank free from other fish and - scavengers. Fry hatch in about a week and should be fed with Brine - Shrimp. - - The following Barbs are prettily colored and easy to take care of. - Their breeding habits are like those of the Rosybarbs. - - BARBUS SUMATRANUS - BARBUS EVERETTI (CLOWN BARB) - BARBUS SEMIFASCIOLATUS (HALF BANDED) - BARBUS SEMIFASCIOLATUS var. Schuberti, (GOLD BARB) - BARBUS NIGROFASCIATUS - -Temperature: 45° to 80° F. Spawn best at 70° to 80° F. - -Maturity: Mature in about 9 months. - -Temperament: Peaceful. - - - BARBUS OLIGOLEPIS (below) - (Sumatra) - -Color: Male—Large scales with blue-black spot, all fins orange-red with - dark edge. Female—Duller in color with 4 or 5 black spots on - sides. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Stock aquarium with Cabomba. Male turns - almost black during spawning period. Remove both parents as soon - as eggs are deposited on fine plants. Fry hatch in about 72 hours. - -Temperature: 70° to 80° F. - -Maturity: 10 months. - -Temperament: (Peaceful.) - - - BLOOD FIN: (above) APHYOCHARAX RUBRIPINNIS - (Argentine) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Iridescent steel blue with deep red fins. Sex determined same as - Silver Tetra. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers. Use large tank, cover bottom with fine - plants, and ample tall ones. Fish spawn at surface, some eggs - adhering to tall plants, others falling. Remove parents. Fry - appear in about 24 hours. Feed Brine Shrimp. Fry grow rapidly. - -Temperature: 70° to 78° F. - -Temperament: Peaceful. - - - SILVER TETRA: CTENOBRYCON SPILURUS - (Br. Guiana) - -Color: Steel blue body covered with very fine bright silver scales. Body - very thin. Large black spot at base of caudal. Tetras are all - easily identified by the small adipose fin between dorsal and - caudal. Male slightly smaller with invisible processes on anterior - tip of anal which catch in fine net. Sex is determined in this - way. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—lay great quantities of adhesive eggs on - fine plants. Plants or parents should be removed as soon as - spawning is completed. Fry will make their appearance in a few - days. Be sure there are no snails in tank with eggs. - -Temperature: 70° to 90° F. - -Maturity: 6 to 8 months. - -Temperament: Very active. Not for community tank. - - - TETRA FROM RIO (above): HYPHESSOBRYCON FLAMMEUS - (Brazil) - TETRA FROM BUENOS AIRES: HEMIGRAMMUS CAUDOVITTATUS - (Argentina) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: TETRA FROM RIO—body bright silver—3 black bars near head; fins - brilliant red edged with black; black edge on anal of male wider - than on female. During mating season red runs well into body. - TETRA FROM BUENOS AIRES—body bright silver, fins blood red. Large - diamond shaped spot at base of caudal. Sex determined same as - Silver Tetra. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers. Use 15 gallon tank, 6 to 8 inches of water. - Stock tank heavily with Cabomba, Myriophyllum, or other fine - floating plants, also a thicket on bottom. Semi-adhesive eggs are - deposited on plants, some sinking to bottom. Best results are - obtained with 2 males and 1 female. Remove parents after spawning - is completed. Fry appear in about 3 days. Tiny fry hang on plants - and sides of aquarium about 3 days. Tetras may not spawn - immediately—have patience. - -Temperature: 70° to 90° F. - -Maturity: From Rio—8 months. Buenos Aires—10 months. - -Temperament: From Rio—Very peaceful, Buenos Aires—Fairly peaceful. - - - PRISTELLA RIDDLEI: (above) - (Venezuela and Guiana) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Silvery body, caudal reddish, anal and dorsal light yellow with - dark spot. Difficult to distinguish sex. - -Breeding Habits: Egg Layers. Spawn on fine plants, Myriophyllum or - Cabomba—very small adhesive eggs, expelled 6 or 8 at a time, often - fall to bottom. Sometimes as many as 200 eggs at a spawning. - Remove parents after spawning. - -Temperature: 72° to 80° F.; best above 75° F. - -Maturity: About 1 year. - -Temperament: Peaceful. - - - HEAD AND TAIL LIGHT: HEMIGRAMMUS OCELLIFER - (Amazon River, S. A.) - -Color: Body translucent green, faint gold line through center of body, - thin black line toward caudal base broadens into diamond shape. - Gleaming gold spot on tail and brilliant red eye give fish its - common name. Male smaller, more slender and has pointed instead of - rounded dorsal. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers. Adhesive eggs are deposited on fine plants. - Use 2 males to one female for best results. Fry hatch in 2 days. - (See Pristella Riddlei.) - -Temperature: 72° to 80° F. - -Maturity: About 8 months. - -Temperament: Peaceful. Young fairly hardy. - - - FEATHERFIN: HEMIGRAMMUS UNILINEATUS - -Color: Like above Pristella Riddlei but has a black and white line down - the anal fin. - -Breeding Habits and Temperament: like Pristella. - - - JEWEL FISH: HEMICHROMIS BIMACULATUS - (Africa) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Body bright scarlet blending to rich olive on back. Emerald dots - (jewels) in irregular lines cover body and vertical fins. - Frequently difficult to obtain mated pair. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—eggs are deposited on smooth stone or flower - pot, to which they adhere. During incubation (about 30 hours) one - parent stands guard, constantly fanning to circulate water over - eggs. Fry are unable to swim first three days so parents make - hollow in sand where fry are placed and guarded. After fry can - swim, they form school with parents in center. Remove parents when - fry are about one-fourth grown or sooner. Parents must not be - excited or they will eat spawn or fry. - -Temperature: 70° to 90° F. Fry above 75° F. Breed best at 80° F. - -Maturity: 10 to 14 months. - -Temperament: Very savage—male frequently attacks carefully mated female. - - * * * * * * * * - -To spawn Cichlids (Jewel, Angel, Orange Chromide, Blue Acara and -Mouthbreeder) purchase several young fish—bring them to maturity -together. When ready for breeding a mated pair will be found associating -together and separated from the others. - -Avoid disturbing Cichlids, any disturbance or noise may cause them to -devour their eggs or young. - - - ANGEL FISH: PTEROPHYLLUM SCALARE - (Amazon River, S. A.) - - [Illustration: Reduced] - -Color: Bright silver, black bars, body very thin. Black bars disappear - when disturbed or frightened. Difficult to distinguish sex. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—very difficult to breed. Prefer sides of - aquarium or Sagittaria Gigantea for depositing eggs. Eggs are - fanned constantly by parents. Fry appear in about 8 days; guarded, - and transferred from one plant to another or depression in sand, - by parents. Fry swim in about a week and resemble thread like - worms. Remove parents when fry begin to swim. Feed infusoria. Fry - take shape of scalare in 3 to 5 weeks. - -Temperature: 70° to 90° F. 85° for spawning. - -Maturity: One to one and a half years. Growth depends upon quality and - quantity of food and size of tank. Angel fish should have as much - live food as possible, largest tank available. - -Temperament: Peaceful. Easily frightened. Keep in large well planted - aquarium otherwise they may dart against sides and kill - themselves. Should be fed live food frequently. Large specimens - are not recommended for community tank. - - - BLUE ACARA: AEQUIDENS LATIFRONS - (Central America) - - [Illustration: one half size] - -Color: Yellowish brown with several dark vertical bands. One of these - bands widens in center of the body into a spot. Lines of shining - blue dots cover the entire body. Dorsal, anal and caudal are wine - red with rows of blue and blue-green spots. Both sexes similar, - female slightly subdued in color. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Mate fish of approximately the same size. - Provide a clean flower pot for the fish to deposit their spawn. - The adhesive eggs are placed on the inside of the flower pot and - are then fertilized by the male. Eggs are fanned by the parents - and fry appear in 3 or 4 days. Parents prepare a depression in the - sand and taking the newly hatched fry in their mouths deposit them - into these holes where they are carefully guarded by the parents. - Young live in a swarm in this “nest” for several days. Then they - swim freely and must be fed infusoria. Parents may be removed soon - after fry swim freely. The Blue Acara is hardy, prolific, easily - spawned, and the fry are hardy and develop rapidly. - -Temperature: 70° to 85° F. - -Maturity: Breed in about 8 months. - -Temperament: Not peaceful—except with very large fish. - - - MOUTH BREEDER: HAPLOCHROMIS STRIGIGENA - (Egypt) - - [Illustration: one half size] - -Color: Body light blue gray—fins yellowish—head very massive. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—deposit spawn in depression in sand. After - spawning is completed female picks up eggs and carries them in her - mouth. Water is circulated over eggs by a chewing movement. Female - refuses food during period she carries eggs. Male should be - removed as soon as female picks up eggs as he may bother her. Fry - appear in about two weeks, but at the slightest sign of danger - rush back into the mother’s mouth. This continues until fry are - too large for the maternal jaw. Female should be removed when fry - are about 5 weeks old. Because of “fast” while carrying eggs, - should be bred but 2 or 3 times a year. - -Temperature: 70° to 85° F. - -Maturity: 12 to 14 months. - -Temperament: Rather vicious. - - - ORANGE CHROMIDE: (below) ETROPLUS MACULATUS - (India) - -Color: Golden orange, 3 blue-black dots on sides crossed by rows of - small reddish dots. Dorsal brown, anal and pectorals dark. Sex - difficult to distinguish. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Spawn on flower pot or stones placed in the - aquarium. Fry hatch in about 4 days and are moved into pits in - sand. Fry swim freely in about 6 days. Remove parents in about two - weeks. - -Temperature: 70° to 80° F. - -Maturity: about 6 to 8 months. - -Temperament: Usually peaceful in large well planted tank. - - - THREE-SPOT GOURAMI: TRICHOGASTER TRICHOPTERUS - (India) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Silvery olive with black spot in center of body, another at - caudal base—the eye making the third spot. - -Breeding Habits: Same as Dwarf Gourami. - -Temperature: 70° to 85° F. - -Maturity: 10 months. - -Temperament: Not recommended for community tank. - - - BLUE GOURAMI: TRICHOGASTER SUMATRANUS - - Form and size like three-spot gourami but color light blue. - - - DWARF GOURAMI: (below) COLISA LALIA (India) - -Color: Body light blue crossed by orange-red stripes. Large fins colored - same as body. Female—subdued in color and fins (dorsal and anal) - slightly rounded. - -Breeding Habits: Bubble nest builders—male blows nest of bubbles on - surface of water among floating plants. Female frequently assists, - weaving bits of plants into nest. Female is coaxed beneath nest - where eggs are expelled and fertilized. Male catches eggs and - blows them into bubble nest. Remove female. Eggs hatch in several - days. Male guards nest, blowing fry back into nest until they are - able to swim freely, to prevent their drowning. Remove male when - fry are 4 days old. - -Temperature: 70° to 90° F. - -Maturity: 8 to 10 months. - -Temperament: Exceedingly peaceful and friendly. - -_Labyrinth fish prefer shallow water—spawning tank not to exceed 6″—tank -for fry not to exceed 4″._ - - - PARADISE: MACROPODUS OPERCULARIS - (South China) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Body dark with vertical bars of deep red against bluish green - background. Fins similar in color, caudal deep red. Female—shorter - fins, color very pale during mating. - -Breeding Habits: Bubble nest builder. When pair have mated (frequently - after the death of several undesirable females) the male builds a - floating nest of bubbles. Male coaxes female under nest, winds - himself about her, a gentle pressure expelling eggs. He then - gathers eggs in his mouth and blows them into nest. Falling eggs - and young fry are carefully blown back into nest by male. Remove - female when spawning is over. Fry appear within 36 hours. Remove - male in about 4 days. - -Temperature: 50° to 90° F. - -Maturity: About 12 months. - -Temperament: Vicious, keep pair separated except when spawning. (see - Bettas.) - -Labyrinth Fish (Gourami, Paradise, Bettas) are air breathers, coming to -the surface every few minutes for a bubble of air. For this reason they -can stand crowding, providing water is kept clear. Fry do not develop -this characteristic for several weeks so must be provided with a large -shallow container with ample oxygen. - - - BETTAS: SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH - (Siam) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: This attractive group (all hybrids of BETTA SPLENDENS) have many - color variations, all exceptionally attractive. BETTA CAMBODIA: - gold colored body—bright red fins. Those with most red in body - known as BETTA RUBRA. BETTA CYANA—body and fins iridescent - cornflower blue. Others often have various shades of blue, green, - red and purple predominating. Females—subdued in color and lack - long flowing fins. - -Breeding Habits: Bubble nest builders—Male builds floating nest of - bubbles 3 to 6 inches in diameter. Female is coaxed and forced - under nest, male embraces her expelling eggs. Male catches eggs - and blows them into bubble nest. Remove female. Fry hatch in 48 - hours. Remove male in 10 days. Do not crowd fry. - -Temperature: 65° to 90° F. 80° F. best for spawning. - -Maturity: 8 to 10 months. - -Temperament: Savage—two males will fight to a finish. Siamese wager on - outcome of these battles. Not advisable to keep mated pairs - together except when spawning. Separate pairs with glass placed - diagonally across aquarium. When spawning, if male attacks female - too viciously, replace glass. - -(_One of these fish may be kept in Community Tank—they seem to attack -only their own species._) - - - PANCHAX FROM MADRAS: PANCHAX PARVUS - (India) - - [Illustration: average size] - -Color: Male, rich deep greenish olive, sides covered with rows of - gleaming red and green spots, anal bright orange and red. Dorsal - and caudal are of similar colors. Female—dull with light orange - fins. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers, spawn readily in small tank, riccia being a - favorite plant for this purpose. - -Temperature: 72° to 80° F. - -Temperament: peaceful. - - - RASBORA HETEROMORPHA: (below) - (Sumatra) - -Color: Silvery copper with large blue-black triangle from dorsal to - caudal base. Dorsal and caudal red. Scales above black triangle - wider on male. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layers—Difficult to breed. Female swims upside down - against leaf of Cryptocoryne, expelling eggs, most of which drop - to bottom. Remove parents after spawning. Fry hatch in about 2 - days and resemble zebra fry. Swim freely in about 5 days. Use 3 - males and 2 females. Do not have aquarium in direct rays of sun. - -Temperature: 72° to 85° F. - -Maturity: Breed at 10 months. - -Temperament: Peaceful. - - - CATFISH: CORYDORAS PALEATUS - (South America) - - [Illustration: 1 to 2 inches] - -Color: Shining olive green, towards the anal: yellowish to white. Body - covered with dark spots changing according to the surroundings. - Average size: 1 to 2 inches. - -Breeding Habits: Egg layer. Distinguishing sex marks: male smaller than - female, and has pointed ventral fins, which are in the female, - rounded. Best breeding results are obtained in a large aquarium. - Two to three males for one female. Temperature 75 to 80 degrees. - 60 to 500 eggs are carried by female in her ventral fins to a - clean spot which can be the glass of the aquarium, a plant or - stone. Babies hatch after 6 to 9 days. The opinion of breeders is - divided as to whether parents should be removed. Good results were - obtained either way. - -Temperament: Paleatus Catfish are the most peaceful fish and very - essential for the maintenance of every balanced aquarium. They are - regarded as the officers of the “Dept. of Sanitation” among - successful aquarists. Paleatus is a ground fish, tirelessly - picking up food remnants and left-overs which other fish do not - eat. Through this activity, Paleatus helps to keep the food - particles from contaminating the water. Catfish dart up to the - surface to breathe atmospheric air. - - - WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN FISH: TANICHTHYS ALBONUBES - (China) - -Color: Form and color similar to Pearl Danio but with gold and blue line - from eye to caudal fin, dorsal and caudal fins deep red, male has - white tip above red caudal fins. - -Breeding Habits: Average temperature 80 degrees. Eggs not adhesive. One - female to two males, eggs hatch after two to three days. Remove - parents after spawning. Tiny fry must be supplied with infusoria - or better still, Brine Shrimp (see p. 27). - -Temperament: Peaceful and hearty, “called poorman’s Neon Tetra” since - the bright colored babies closely resemble Neon Tetras. - - - WHITE PARADISE: ALBINO PARADISE - -Color: Generally white and the red bars show faintly. Like most albinos - their eyes are pink. - -Breeding Habits: Just like their original form, the Red Paradise. The - albino color breeds true. (See page 23.) - - - BLACK TETRA: GYMNOCORYMBUS TERNETZI - (Paraguay) - -Color: Same size like Tetra from Rio but black in color. - -Breeding Habits and Temperament also like Tetra from Rio. (see page 16.) - - - BLUE MOLLY: MOLLIENISIA SPHENOPS - -Color: Sphenops are found in various color schemes varying from jet - black to pure light blue, very often blue body with scattered - black spots. The caudal of male adorned with bright orange border. - -Breeding Habits: Heartier and more easily bred than ordinary Black - Mollies. - - - LIBERTY MOLLY: VAR. SPHENOPS - -Color: Body color of male and female light blue, but males dorsal shows - “red, white and blue”. - -Breeding Habits: (see page 11.) - - - GOLD FISH: - - [Illustration: _Veiltail_] - -History: The Gold Fish, the oldest and most popular of our numerous - Aquarium Fish, was developed by the Chinese during the Sung - Dynasty (960-1278) from the wild Carassius Auratus to the various - varieties now familiar to us. - -In the year 1750 Madame de Pompadour imported the first Goldfish into -France as showpieces for the ornamental waterpools in her vast gardens. -In 1856, P. T. Barnum was sent by The American Museum to search for -oddities in Europe and to study the then popular fad of keeping live -fish in aquariums. Thus our now familiar Goldfish made its debut in -America. With its golden beauty and its sturdiness, the Goldfish quickly -became the Parlor Pet of our parents and grandparents. Today the sales -of American-bred Goldfish run into the millions. - -It would be beyond the limits of this booklet to explain and fully -describe all the various forms and color variations of our goldfish, as -there are Comets, Fantails, Shubunkins, Black Moors, etc. Most Goldfish -do not reach their full life span of 4 to 6 years and often more, -because they are fed too much and are given too little “Living Space.” -Feed your fish only once a day during the morning and make sure that all -food is consumed within 10 to 15 minutes. Any surplus food will fall to -the bottom and will contaminate the water. The surest sign of -overfeeding is cloudy and milky looking water. This bad water is poor in -oxygen and the fish will hang on the surface and frantically gasp for -atmospheric air. Any nationally known brand of Goldfish food will be -suitable for your fish, but once more: DO NOT OVERFEED. The proper size -of the aquarium should be comparable to the amount of fish or vice -versa. The happy medium is about 1 small fish per gallon of water. An -aquarium of five gallons capacity can, therefore, hold no more than 4 to -5 small Goldfish, but fish of larger size must have much larger space. -The most suitable temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees, Fahrenheit. - -Breeding Hints: During the breeding season which falls during the first - seven months of the year, the male will show small warts of pin - point size on his gill plates. The female is shorter than the male - but fuller in body, more so, when carrying spawn. A mature fish is - about 3-10 inches long, depending on type and a pair must - therefore have a breeding aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The - fish will spawn on myriophyllum, long rooted water hyacinths, or - other soft bunchy plants and the eggs will hatch in about 4-7 - days. Since the parent fish like to eat their own spawn, it is - therefore advisable to remove either the parents or the plants - with their adhering eggs. The newly hatched babies are fed with - infusoria and later on with fish food of a fine grain. - -Diseases: Fin Congestion and Fungus are the most frequent Goldfish - diseases. Their best cure is the salt treatment which is described - on page 33. - - - TURTLES - - [Illustration: {Turtle aquarium}] - -Baby turtles are very easily kept as pets and require little care. While -in captivity, Turtles will forget their time schedule and will not -hibernate. Any round or oval bowl, an aquarium or a flat pan with a rim -sufficiently high to prevent the turtle from crawling out, is an -adequate home. In this container, place white or colored pebbles, and in -the center a flat stone. Fill the container with clean water of room -temperature (60 to 80 degrees, fahrenheit) but see to it that the stone -is not covered by the water for it will serve as an “Island” and thus -give the turtle a chance to leave the wet element when desired. The best -place for the bowl is in a light place, but special care should be taken -to see that the bowl is not exposed too long to the direct sun. Ant -Eggs, commonly packed as “Turtle Food” will mainly be their diet but -lean raw beef, which is finely scraped, will be an appreciated change. -The same applies for green lettuce, rainworms, etc. A variation in food -and sunshine will prevent blindness, but should a turtle get a white -film over its eyes, a few drops of Cod liver Oil forced by a medicine -dropper in its mouth, might help. Boric acid swabbed over the eyes will -also be beneficial. Turtles will not feed “on land” therefore all food -should be placed in the water. Water should be changed two to three -times weekly. - - - - - HEALTH - - -It is much easier to keep fish healthy than to cure them. - -Disturb your fish as little as possible. - -Fish in good health are active and keep dorsal fin erect. (Folded fins -for a short period do not mean a sick fish.) - -Most fish ills develop from chills. Keep fish above lowest safe -temperature. Young fry especially should be kept warm. - -Avoid extremes of temperature. Avoid sudden changes of temperature. -Provide some type of aquarium heater for cold months. - -Do not crowd fish—be sure plants are thriving and there is ample oxygen -in water. - -Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen. Remove -part of water and replace with fresh of same temperature. - -Dying plants cause much trouble—be sure plants are healthy and growing. - -It is much easier to keep fish healthy in a large tank (above 5 -gallons). A large tank maintains a more uniform temperature, allows more -air surface, plants thrive better, and water is not fouled so easily by -excess food. - -An aquarium can be maintained in healthy condition, both plants and fish -thriving, under artificial lighting furnished by an ordinary light bulb. - -Vary the diet for the fish. Feed only as much as they will eat in ten -minutes. Feed sparingly and several times a day if necessary. Use glass -feeding ring. (Fig. 4). All uneaten food drops to one spot where it can -be easily removed with a dip tube. - -Health and growth of fry depend upon oxygen supply. Use tank with large -air surface. BE SURE AND DO NOT CROWD YOUNG FRY. Crowding stunts growth -and frequently causes disease, and loss of whole brood. Fry demand -approximately same amount of water as adults—see page 31. - - [Illustration: FIG·4] - - [Illustration: Tropicals in poor condition, (usually indicated by - folded fins). - Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen.] - - [Illustration: SEVERAL HOURS DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY - Always keep glass cover on aquarium. - Always keep a thermometer in aquarium.] - - [Illustration: Never give fish more food than they can clean up in - ten minutes.] - - - - - FOOD - - -Do Not Overfeed—Never give fish more food than they can clean up in ten -minutes. - -Vary the Diet—Have several kinds of food on hand at all times. Dried -Shrimp, Dried Daphnae, scrapings from raw beef, bits of canned salmon, -bits of boiled spinach, finely crumbed graham cracker, bits of yolk of -boiled egg, and most of the prepared foods are excellent but should be -supplemented with some form of live food. Once a week they should be fed -chopped earth worms or Enchytrae (White worms). Feed live bearer’s fry -small quantity of fine foods several times a day. Feed egg layer’s fry -Brine Shrimp twice a day the first couple weeks and then feed same as -live bearer’s fry. - -Several Feedings a Day—Feeding a very small quantity of food several -times a day (what the fish will clean up in several minutes) is probably -more desirable than one feeding providing great care is taken not to -feed too much at one time. - -Tropicals Will Not Overeat—Unlike goldfish, tropicals will eat only as -much as they need but great care must be exercised in order to allow no -uneaten food in the aquarium to foul the water and cause disease. - -Tubifex worms are found in fresh water streams and rivers, close to -shore in soft loamy bottom. They are an excellent live food provided -they are fed to the fish with care. Keep in cool place in container -having large air surface with just enough water to cover them. Since -they bury themselves in the gravel, it is best to feed them to the fish -with a worm feeder. The best type of feeder has a quantity of small -holes through which the worms wriggle into the mouths of the fish -eagerly waiting below. For baby fish it is best to cut the worms into -small pieces. - -Enchytrae (White Worms) multiply rapidly in a wooden box (about 10″ -square) filled with about 5″ of rich loamy soil. Portion of worms is -placed in soil and whole mass kept fairly moist. Feed slice of bread -soaked in sweet or sour milk every 3 or 4 days. Be sure all food is -covered with at least 1″ of soil. Before feeding be sure all old food is -consumed. They may be fed cooked oatmeal or mashed potatoes WITHOUT -SALT. Stir soil once a week to aerate it and prevent souring. Cover soil -with piece of glass to keep moisture in. Keep in cool dark place. - -BRINE SHRIMP—To raise Egglaying Fish, the use of Brine Shrimp (fig. 5) -replaces the old fashioned Infusoria method more and more. Brine Shrimp -Eggs are available in any good pet shop and are easily hatched. -Directions for hatching Brine Shrimp Eggs are found on package. - - - - - DISEASE - - -Tropical Fish are naturally healthy. If kept in a healthy aquarium, fed -properly and kept warm little or no trouble will be experienced. In -short—IT IS EASIER TO KEEP FISH HEALTHY THAN TO CURE THEM. - -Practically all diseases are due to one of the following: UNHEALTHY -TANK—water too acid or alkaline—lack of oxygen—decomposition of -food—plants not thriving. IMPROPER FEEDING—Overfeeding, lack of live -food, lack of variation in diet. CHILL—the cause of most fish ills. Fish -is weakened and subject to diseases, many incurable. - -Ichthyopthirius (Ich): A parasite that attacks the fish. Recognized by -tiny white spot on fins. Fish have fins folded and scratch themselves on -sand. Contagious. Treat whole tank (plants and snails need not be -removed). Raise temperature to 80° F. Add about two drops 2% -Mercurochrome to each gallon of water. If fish are not cured in 3 or 4 -days repeat treatment. - -Shimmy: A wagging movement without changing position is usually the -result of a chill affecting digestive organs. Not contagious—give salt -treatment. - -Dropsy: Body swells, scales stand out at an angle. Fish act normal until -a few days before death. Salt treatment sometimes brings relief. Cure -doubtful. - -Wounds or Ulcers: Wrap piece of cotton on toothpick; hold fish in damp -cloth and paint wound for 2 minutes with Mercurochrome twice a day. Do -not allow Mercurochrome to touch gills. - -Constipation: 1 tablespoon Epsom Salts to 5 gallons of water. - -Air Bladder Trouble: Caused by sudden temperature change. Fish swim -either at top or stay near bottom. Cure unknown. - -Blood Shot Fins—Tailrot: Condition caused by sudden temperature change -or injury. Use salt treatment. - -Fungus—White scum forms over fish. Use salt treatment. - -Fluke: Flat and sunken belly. No known cure. - -Salt Treatment: Use glass or enamel container, raise temperature to 80° -F., 1 teaspoonful rock or sea salt per gallon of water. (May be doubled -in extreme cases.) Salt (Rock or Epsom) will kill snails and plants. - -Tropicals in poor condition, usually indicated by folded fins, should be -isolated at once. Gradually raise temperature to 80° F. Feed live food. -Give salt treatment. Frequently a cure is affected by placing ailing -fish in tank of “green water.” (see page 31.) - -Sick fish more easily cured in shallow water. - -Sudden changes of temperature may be fatal to weakened fish. - -Potassium permanganate solution is an excellent disinfectant and -deodorant. Also destroys algae in aquarium and pool. Tint water faint -pink, repeat when color disappears. Avoid excess. - - - - - ENEMIES - - -Fish enemies are usually transferred to the aquarium by the introduction -of new aquatic plants that are obtained from outside pools. To avoid -fish enemies—AVOID USING PLANTS AND SAND THAT ARE OBTAINED FROM OUTSIDE -POOLS OR PONDS. If you are suspicious of source rinse for a minute or -two through a strong solution of salt water. This should kill all -insects and not injure plants. Examine plants carefully for eggs. Fig. 6 -shows larvae of Giant Beetle (Water Tiger). Fig. 7, larvae of Dragon -Fly. Both attack fairly large fish and devour small ones in quantities. - - [Illustration: FIG·5] - - [Illustration: FIG·6] - - [Illustration: FIG·7] - -HYDRA—a polyp, fastens itself to plants or glass. It has a variety of -shapes and is hard to distinguish particularly on plants. It attacks and -quickly drugs fish by injecting a poison. Hydra can be killed by -removing all fish and scavengers and raising temperature of tank to 115° -F. - - - - - AERATION - - -Replacing consumed oxygen by blowing a stream of very fine air bubbles -through the aquarium water is frequently necessary in aquariums, where -plants receive insufficient light or are not thriving, where the air -surface is small (depth greater than width), where crowding is -necessary, etc. Even in healthy aquariums, where plants are thriving, -conditions will be improved by an hour or two of aeration daily. Many -types of aerators are available. - - - - - CONTROL OF ACIDITY AND ALKALINITY - - -Due to the fact that in some localities the natural water supply is -alkaline, in others neutral, and in others acid much has been written -about controlling aquarium water. - -Many aquarists believe that a slightly acid condition in the aquarium is -desirable. - -There are a number of reliable water testing sets available at very -nominal prices. - -Most of the fish described in this book seem to thrive and breed better -in slightly acid water (about pH6.8). - - - - - HELPFUL HINTS - - -Get your experience from the more common varieties first. - -Half grown fish are best to buy—you are sure of obtaining young fish, -and it is interesting to watch them mature. - -Fish ready to spawn: Females become heavier. Also on live bearers the -dark spot near vent becomes larger and darker. Males chase females -continually at spawning time. Labyrinth male builds bubble nest. - -Live bearers are easiest to breed. Eggs are hatched within the female’s -body and the young are born alive. - -Female live bearers seek secluded places to give birth to their young. -If one corner of the community tank (toward light) is heavily planted, -and ample floating plants provided, quite a few young will survive. -These can be removed until old enough to return to community tank—in -about 4 or 5 weeks, dependent on growth. - -Female live bearers will eat their young. If placed in separate tank -remove female as soon as brood is produced. - -Female live bearers will produce several broods after being separated -from male. - -Live bearer’s fry are sometimes born with an “egg sac,” usually the -result of premature birth. - - [Illustration: Tools] - - NET - GLASS FEEDING RING - PLANTING TONGS - THERMOMETERS - PLANTING SNIPS - AQUARIUM CLEANER - DIP TUBE - - [Illustration: AVOID - 1·SUDDEN TEMPERATURE CHANGE. - 2·CROWDING LACK OF OXYGEN. - 3·EXCESS FOOD.] - -To save young live bearers, females are frequently placed in a trap. Be -sure female has ample room to swim freely. Many varieties of traps are -available. - -To breed egg layers, male and female should be separated for several -days before being placed in spawning tank. - -All fish are more prolific during warm weather. - -Practically all fish will eat young fry. - -Algae—a fine green plant growth—is caused by an excess of light. Remove -as much of the growth as possible and reduce amount of light. - -Floating algae—green water—is caused by the same condition. Cut down -light and condition usually clears itself. (See page 4.) Coloring water -in tank a faint pink with a solution of potassium permanganate will -usually clear this condition. Green water is actual healthy water for -fish. - -Algae may be cleaned off glass by scraping with safety razor blade. -(Fig. 8.) - -Cloudy water usually caused by improperly balanced tank. Remedy: more -plants or less fish, better light, more scavengers, less food. - - [Illustration: FIG·8] - -Cloud at bottom of tank is usually caused by decaying of excess food. - -Plants thrive better in deep sand; roots spread and absorb decaying -matter. - -Always use sea salt. Table salt is questionable since it is chemically -treated to prevent caking. - -Tropicals thrive under more crowded conditions than goldfish. 2 or 3 -pairs per gallon in healthy aquarium, about 6″ fish body per gallon. - -Always sterilize net with boiling water after handling sick fish. - -Slow leaks in aquariums will usually be sealed by painting all inside -and outside seams with liquid aquarium cement. - -To obtain number of gallons of water in tank—divide cubic contents in -inches by 231. - - - - - INDEX - - - * Subjects marked * are illustrated - - - A - *Accessories 35 - Aeration 34 - *Aequidens Latifrons 20 - *African Snail 6 - Albino Paradise 27 - Algae 4, 36 - *Anacharis 5 - *Angel Fish 19 - *Aphyocharax Rubripinnis 15 - *Artemia 32 - Australian Snail 6 - - - B - *Barbus Conchonius 14 - *Barbus Oligolepis 14 - *Betta 24 - *Black Mollienisia 11 - *Black Tetra 27 - *Blood Fin 15 - *Blue Acara 20 - *Blue Gourami 22 - Blue Molly 27 - *Breeding Trap 35 - *Brine Shrimp 32 - - - C - *Catfish 26 - Characins 2, 15, 16, 17 - Cichlids 2, 18, 19, 20, 21 - *Clams 6 - *Cabomba 5 - *Colisa Lalia 22 - Coral Snail 6 - *Corydoras Paleatus 26 - Cryptocoryne 5 - *Ctenobrycon Spilurus 15 - Cyprinodontidae 2, 12, 25 - - - D - *Danio Albolineatus 13 - *Danio Malabaricus 13 - *Danio Rerio 12 - *Dip Tube 4 - Disease 33 - *Dragon Fly Larvae 34 - Dropsy 33 - *Duck Weed 5 - *Dwarf Gourami 22 - - - E - Electric Lighting 30 - Enchytrae 32 - Enemies 34 - *Etroplus Maculatus 21 - - - F - Families 2 - Featherfins 17 - *Feeding Rings 31 - Food 32 - *Fresh Water Mussel 6 - - - G - *Giant Danio 13 - *Golden Danio 12 - *Goldfish 28, 29 - *Guppy 7 - *Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi 27 - - - H - *Hair Grass 5 - *Haplochromis Strigigena 21 - Happy Family 2 - *Head & Tail Light 17 - Health 29 - *Helleri 3 - *Hemichromis Bimaculatus 18 - *Hemigrammus Caudovittatus 16 - *Hemigrammus Ocellifer 17 - Hemigrammus Unilineatus 17 - *Heterandria Formosa 7 - Hydra 34 - Hyphessobrycon Flameus 16 - - - I - Ich 33 - Ichthyopthirius 33 - Infusoria 32 - - - J - *Jewel Fish 18 - - - L - Labyrinth 2, 22, 23, 24 - *Lebistes Reticulatus 7 - Liberty Molly 27 - Live Bearers 2, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 27 - Ludwigia 5 - - - M - *Macropodus Opercularis 29 - *Medaka 12 - *Melantho Snail 6 - *Mollienisia Latipinna 10 - *Mollienisia Sphenops 27 - *Moons Gold 9 - Red 9 - Blue 9 - Black 9 - Wagtail 9 - *Mosquito Fish 7 - *Mouth Breeder 21 - *Myriophyllum 5 - - - O - *Orange Chromide 21 - *Oryzias Latipes 12 - - - P - *Paleatus 26 - *Panchax 25 - *Paradise 23 - *Pearl Danio 13 - pH 34 - Planting 3 - *Platy 9 - *Platy Variatus 9 - *Platypoecilia 9 - *Pond Snail 6 - Preparing the Aquarium 3 - *Pristella Riddlei 17 - *Pterophyllum Scalare 19 - - - R - *Rasbora Heteromorpha 25 - Riccia 5 - *Rosy Barb 14 - - - S - *Sagittaria 5 - *Sailfin 10 - *Salamander American 6 - *Salvinia 5 - Schuberti 14 - *Shrimp 32 - *Siamese Fighting Fish 24 - *Silver Tetra 15 - *Siphon 4 - *Snails 6 - *Southern Spatterdock 5 - Sphenops 27 - *Swordtail 8 - - - T - Tanichthys Albonubes 27 - *Tetra from Buenos Aires 16 - *Tetra From Rio 16 - *Three-Spot Gourami 22 - *Trichogaster Sumatranus 22 - *Trumpet Snail 6 - Tubifex Worms 32 - Turtles 30 - - - V - *Vallisneria 5 - - - W - Wagtail, Platies 9 - Water Control 34 - *Water Tiger 34 - White Cloud Mountain Fish 27 - White Paradise 27 - White Worms 32 - - - X - *Xiphophorus Helleri 8 - *Zebra Fish 12 - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Tropical Fish Handbook, by Guenther-Lothar Schott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 62463-0.txt or 62463-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/4/6/62463/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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} -p.pcap { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0; text-align:center; margin-top:0; } -p.pcapc { margin-left:4.7em; text-indent:0em; text-align:justify; } -dl.pcap { font-family:sans-serif; font-size:80%; font-weight:bold; } -span.attr { font-size:80%; font-family:sans-serif; } -span.pn { display:inline-block; width:4.7em; text-align:left; margin-left:0; text-indent:0; } -</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's Tropical Fish Handbook, by Guenther-Lothar Schott - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Tropical Fish Handbook - Tenth Edition, 1953 - -Author: Guenther-Lothar Schott - -Release Date: June 24, 2020 [EBook #62463] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Tropical Fish Handbook" width="500" height="724" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1><span class="ss">TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK</span></h1> -<p class="center"><span class="ss"><span class="larger i yellow">GOLDFISH</span> -<br />AND -<br /><span class="large">31 POPULAR TROPICALS</span> -<br />ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED</span></p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“<i>Twice happy is the man who has a Hobby,</i></p> -<p class="t2"><i>He has Two Worlds to Live in.</i>”</p> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1 title=""><span class="small">TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK</span></h1> -<p>A book of practical information for the beginner, containing illustrations and descriptions of Tropical Fish, Goldfish, Scavengers, Turtles and Aquarium Accessories.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p01.jpg" alt="{Tropical lake scene}" width="339" height="307" /> -</div> -<p class="center"><i>Tenth Edition 1953</i></p> -<p class="center"><span class="smaller">Copyright 1945 -<br />By</span> -<br /><b>GUENTHER L. SCHOTT -<br />New York, N. Y.</b></p> -</div> -<p class="jr1"><span class="ssn"><span class="smaller">PRINTED IN U. S. A.</span></span></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div> -<div class="box"> -<p>For the beginner, the happy family collection is -of most interest. Here in one large tank he -can observe the interesting habits, shapes and -colors of a great variety of fish. If he desires he -may remove them to separate tanks during breeding -periods. The danger of cross breeding in the community -tank is practically eliminated by the presence -of a pair of each species.</p> -<p>The following fish are discussed in this handbook, -those marked * being recommended for the community -tank.</p> -<blockquote> -<p><i>Bad tempered fish may appear in some normally peaceful -species and vice versa.</i></p> -<p><i>Also fish which may make trouble in a small aquarium -may be peaceful in a large well planted one.</i></p> -</blockquote> -<p class="revint"><b>Live Bearers</b> (young are born alive) *Guppy, -*Swordtail, *Moon or Platy, *Sailfin, *Black -Mollienisia, *Helleri, *Mosquito Fish, *Platy -Variatus.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Labyrinth</b> (breathe air taken from surface, bubble -nest builders) Paradise, Bettas, *Dwarf Gourami, -Three-Spot Gourami.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Cichlids</b> (Egg layers, guard eggs and fry) Jewel -Fish, *Angel Fish, Mouth Breeder, Blue Acara, -Orange Chromide.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Danios</b> (Egg droppers) *Zebra, *Pearl Danio, *Giant -Danio.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Barbs</b> (spawn on plants like goldfish) *Rosy Barb, -*Barbus Oligolepis.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Characins</b> (Deposit adhesive eggs on plants) *Silver -Tetra, *Tetra Von Buenos Aires, *Tetra Von Rio, -*Blood Fin, *Pristella Riddlei, *Head and Tail -Light. *Featherfins, *Black Tetra, *Neon Tetra.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Cyprinodontidae</b> (Egg droppers) *Medaka, *Panchax.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Cyprinidae</b> (Egg droppers) *Rasbora.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="imgx1"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="" width="469" height="259" /> -<p class="pcap">The above illustration will assist the reader in -locating the markings of the fish -described in this book.</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>DORSAL</dt> -<dt>CAUDAL</dt> -<dt>PECTORAL</dt> -<dt>ANAL</dt> -<dt>VENTRAL</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">PREPARING THE BALANCED AQUARIUM</span></h2> -<p>Much of the future enjoyment of your aquarium will depend -upon the care with which it is selected, and its proper location.</p> -<p>The aquarium should be rectangular, and the depth should not -exceed its width. The larger the tank the more satisfaction you will -receive from it—it is easier to balance, maintains a more uniform -temperature, and allows space to add to your collection.</p> -<p>The principles of the balanced aquarium are very simple. Fish -breathe oxygen (which they obtain from the water) and exhale -carbon dioxide. Thriving plants absorb the carbon from the carbon -dioxide and liberate the oxygen. This maintains a high oxygen -content in the water necessary to maintain healthy fish. No -balanced aquarium can be maintained without scavengers to consume -bits of decaying food and plants. Fish, plants and scavengers -depend upon each other in the balanced aquarium.</p> -<p>Aquarium should be located where it will receive one or two -hours of direct sunshine daily and plenty of strong light all day. -When aquarium is located cover bottom with one or two inches of -well washed coarse sand. (For practical purposes sand may be considered -well washed when water runs clear.) Be sure that aquarium -has been carefully washed before introducing sand. Sand and aquarium -may be washed in strong solution of rock salt—RINSE -THOROUGHLY.</p> -<p>Now fill aquarium about half full of water and set in plants. -Be sure that over one half your plants are excellent oxygenators. -Vallisneria and Sagittaria should not have crowns buried when -planting. Plant tall plants in back or in corners and smaller ones -in front. You cannot use too many plants—BUT ONLY GROWING -AND HEALTHY PLANTS LIBERATE OXYGEN.</p> -<p>Fill tank, pouring water on piece of paper floating on top or -into cup submerged in tank to avoid uprooting plants. Allow water -to stand 24 hours. Be sure it is the right temperature for fish it will -contain. Add snails and scavengers. PROVIDE GLASS COVER -as tropicals are noted for their jumping ability. Some type of -heater should be provided for the aquarium, in order to maintain a -uniform temperature during the winter months.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div> -<p>Fish may now be introduced, care being taken not to place too -many fish in a new tank until plants have had sufficient time to -multiply. The dissolution of uneaten food, dead snails, plants, etc., -frequently produces more food than can be consumed by the plant -life present. At this point Algae frequently steps in and the tank -becomes green or cloudy and foul smelling.</p> -<p>To avoid this condition, avoid too many fish in aquarium, siphon -off dirt on bottom frequently, remove plants that are not thriving, -cut down light when thread algae becomes a nuisance.</p> -<p>Water in a balanced aquarium will remain crystal clear for -months.</p> -<p>Always keep glass cover on aquarium. It helps maintain a more -uniform temperature, and keeps fish from jumping out. It may be -raised slightly but this is not necessary.</p> -<p>Always use net in handling fish.</p> -<p>Do not use pebbles in aquarium—food gets into crevices where -scavengers cannot reach it—causing water to foul.</p> -<p>Always keep a thermometer in aquarium.</p> -<p>Avoid metals in aquarium. Lead is safe as it does not dissolve.</p> -<p>Rooted plants should not have crowns buried when planting—<a href="#fig1">Fig. 1</a>.</p> -<p>KEEP BOTTOM OF AQUARIUM CLEAN—remove all sediment -with dip tube—<a href="#fig2">Fig. 2</a>.</p> -<p>To remove water—use either automatic siphon—<a href="#fig3">Fig. 3</a>—or -siphon with rubber hose.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="" width="313" height="312" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·1</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p03a.jpg" alt="" width="310" height="328" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·2</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p03c.jpg" alt="" width="411" height="328" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·3</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03d.jpg" alt="{Plants}" width="600" height="448" /> -</div> -<table class="center" summary=""> -<tr><td class="c">ANACHARIS. </td><td class="c">LUDWIGIA. </td><td class="c">VALLISNERIA. </td><td class="c">SAGITTARIA. </td><td class="c">CABOMBA.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c"> </td><td class="c"> </td><td class="c"> </td><td class="c"> </td><td class="c">DUCK WEED.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">HAIR GRASS. </td><td class="c">SOUTHERN SPATTERDOCK. </td><td class="c">VALLISNERIA. </td><td class="c">MYRIOPHYLLUM. </td><td class="c">SALVINIA.</td></tr> -</table> -<h2 id="c2"><span class="small">PLANTS</span></h2> -<p class="revint"><b>Anacharis</b>: Fair oxygenator—planted or floating—needs abundance -of light.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Ludwigia</b>: Fair oxygenator. Leaves—top green, underneath red.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Sagittaria</b>: Excellent oxygenators, three varieties: NATANS—long -narrow leaves; GIGANTEA—broad stocky 8″ leaves; SUBULATA—(dwarf) -4″ to 6″ narrow leaves.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Cabomba</b>: Little value as oxygenator—fanlike green leaves.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Hair Grass</b>: Fair oxygenator—rapidly covers floor with 4″ grassy -needles.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Southern Spatterdock</b>: Ornamental—broad bright green leaves.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Vallisneria</b>: Excellent oxygenator—15″ long—multiplies rapidly by -runners.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Myriophyllum</b>: Ornamental—excellent for spawn of adhesive egg -layers.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Salvinia</b>: Floating—¼″ leaves covered with velvety hairs.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Duck Weed</b>: Ornamental bright green floating plant.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Riccia</b>: Very fine bright green floating plant—valuable in spawning -bubble nest builders, especially Dwarf Gourami.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Cryptocoryne</b>: Leaves top dark green, underside dark red. Needs -some soil, slow grower. Very decorative and necessary in -spawning some species.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="{Scavengers}" width="500" height="373" /> -</div> -<table class="center" summary=""> -<tr><td class="c">WEATHER FISH </td><td class="c">BLACK RAMSHORN SNAIL</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">POND SNAIL </td><td colspan="2" class="c">AMERICAN SALAMANDER</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">CLAM or FRESH WATER MUSSEL </td><td class="c">AFRICAN SNAIL<br />MELANTHO SNAIL</td></tr> -</table> -<h2 id="c3"><span class="small">SCAVENGERS</span></h2> -<p class="revint"><b>Melantho</b> (Trumpet) <b>Snail</b>: Very active—multiplies rapidly—consumes -algae.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Pond Snail</b>: Very active and useful—a fast moving fellow.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Black Ramshorn Snail</b>: Multiplies rapidly—excellent scavenger.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Coral Snail</b>: Same as Ramshorn with coral red body, and shell.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>African Snail</b>: Good scavenger—light yellow brown—dark spots.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Australian Snail</b>: Similar to Pond but bright scarlet in color—very -active.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Catfish</b>: (Corydoras Paleatus) most popular scavenger. Look for -full description on <a href="#Page_26">page 26</a>.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>American Salamander</b>: Brown with red and black spots—vest -yellow and brown.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Clam</b> or <b>Fresh Water Mussel</b>: Filters all floating matter from -water leaving it crystal clear. Must have large tank or pool -and several inches of sand in which to work.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Snails will eat eggs of egg-laying fish.</b> -<br />To breed snails—place in separate tank and feed lettuce. Well -fed snails lay an abundance of eggs, resembling a gelatin like -mass attached to plants and glass. Fish will eat snail eggs. -Salt will kill snails—when using salt treatment remove snails.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div> -<h3 id="c4">MOSQUITO FISH:<span class="hst"> HETERANDRIA FORMOSA</span> -<br />(Southern U. S.)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p04a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="373" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Numerous black bands adorn gray sides—black horizontal -line extends from eye to caudal. Red edged dark spot on dorsal.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live bearers—Females produce several young -every few days during breeding season. Young are hardy -and mature in about 6 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 65° to 75° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful.</p> -<h3 id="c5">GUPPY: (below)<span class="hst"> LEBISTES RETICULATUS (Venezuela)</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Male—two males are never precisely alike. Every color of -the rainbow is present, intermingled with irregular black spots -and bars. Female—dull grayish green.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live Bearers—mature females produce from 35 -to 50 live young every 5 weeks. Presence of young is indicated -by darkened area anterior to anal fin. “Heavy” females may be -removed to separate vessel, heavily stocked with plants—particularly -floating plants toward light. When young are born -they seek safety among plants. Remove female to prevent her -eating young. Young are ready to take fine food in a few hours. -Guppy seem to thrive under fairly crowded conditions.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: Thrive and breed at 65° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Males 2 to 3 months—Females 4 month. Males less -hardy.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very peaceful. Males very active.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div> -<h3 id="c6">SWORDTAIL:<span class="hst"> XIPHOPHORUS HELLERI</span> -<br />(Mexico)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="383" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Male—body blue green, red line on side. Large dorsal with -reddish dots. Ornamental sword may be yellow, orange or -green, edged with black. Female—resembles male in color, -lacks sword. (Both male and female CRESCENT SWORDTAIL -have black crescent at base of caudal.)</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live bearers—have 25 to 100 live young every 6 -or 7 weeks. When female is “heavy” place her in large vessel -heavily stocked with plants. Young swim from mother, seeking -safety among plants usually at bottom toward light. Remove -female—she will eat fry.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 85° F. Breed best at 75° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Breed at about 9 months. Male resembles female until -full grown; then anal changes to reproducing organ and -“sword” develops.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very peaceful. Due to rivalry, stronger male will -bully others.</p> -<h3 id="c7">HELLERI (below) (Gold, Red and Black)</h3> -<p>Mating a virgin female Swordtail and Platy male, the young -inherit the general color of the male and body type of the -female, often becoming larger than either parent. Some males -develop short sword. A percentage of the offspring are sterile.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<h3 id="c8">PLATYPOECILIA VARIATUS (above) -<br />(Mexico)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p05a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="361" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Large dorsal, yellow with black edge, caudal reddish, body -various colors intermingled. Female, similar to female swordtail -in color and markings. Male has spot resembling gravid -spot on female. Color and markings vary.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live bearers (same as swordtails). Do not breed -true to color.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 72° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 5 to 8 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful, very hardy.</p> -<h3 id="c9">MOONS OR PLATY<span class="hst"> PLATYPOECILIA (Mexico)</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: RED MOON—deep rich red. GOLD MOON—gold body, -red dorsal fin, BLUE MOON—blue body, black crescent at -base of caudal. (Black Crescent may appear on Red and Gold -Moons.) BLACK MOON—black body sometimes with greenish -sheen, also found with red heads, (Black Helmet Moon), GOLD -WAGTAIL—Gold body with black fins and black caudal. RED -WAGTAILS—deep red body with black fins and black caudal.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live bearers—15 to 30 young every 6 to 9 weeks. -Breeding habits same as swordtails, except most young moons -come to top. Cross breeding with swordtail common, producing -beautiful hybrids (HELLERI) larger than either parent and -assuming color of male (MOON).</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 80° F. <b>Maturity</b>: 4 to 6 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very peaceful. Fry must be kept very warm.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div> -<h3 id="c10"><b id="g_Sailfin">SAILFIN</b>:<span class="hst"> MOLLIENISIA LATIPINNA</span> -<br />(Southern U. S., Northern Mexico)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="376" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">About one half size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Male—body olive green, black stitching; large dorsal fin -(sailfin) lavender and orange spotted with black; caudal, -orange and light blue. Female—similar to male but without -large dorsal.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live bearers—have 20 to 100 young at irregular -intervals. All Mollienisia are hardy but females must not be -moved to another tank when young are expected. This frequently -causes young to be born prematurely and few will survive. -Moving female or undue excitement at this time may -cause death of female. Provide ample vegetation in tank. -Sailfins are not very cannibalistic but it is always safest to -remove fry for several weeks. Young are ⅜″ long when born.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 45° to 85° F. Breed best at 70° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 9 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very peaceful.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>In breeding Mollienisia, no two varieties should be kept in the -same tank as they will cross breed. Each variety should be provided -with a separate tank. (This is also true of the moons). -Only very careful intelligent selective breeding has produced the -Black Mollienisia, later the Sailfin Black Molly, and most recently, -Black Molly Sailfin with an orange bordered dorsal.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<h3 id="c11">BLACK MOLLIENISIA: -<br />(Southern U. S.)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p06a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="379" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Both male and female coal black.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Live bearers—15 to 25 young born at irregular -intervals throughout the year. Young when born are large and -black. Turn gray in a few weeks and then gradually turn black. -Female should never be moved when young are expected—as -this usually results in loss of young and frequently loss of female. -(See <a class="gloss" href="#g_Sailfin">Sailfin</a>). Young are fairly safe with parents if ample -floating plants are provided. “Mollies” are algae eaters. -Black Mollienisia have been crossed with Sailfins producing -the beautiful BLACK MOLLIENISIA SAILFIN.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 65° to 80° F. Breed best at 75° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Good male becomes black in about 6 months. Female -about 18 months. Breed at 9 months. Males less hardy.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very peaceful.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Mollies” are heavy eaters, and largely vegetarians. Some -algae should be present.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div> -<h3 id="c12">MEDAKA: (above)<span class="hst"> ORYZIAS LATIPES</span> -<br />(China)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="340" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Male and female light lemon yellow. Male slim like Zebra—sometimes -called “Golden Danio.” Female—slightly heavier.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—these interesting and attractive fish -are the easiest of the egg layers to breed. Eggs cluster about -anal region of female like bunch of grapes. Here they are carried -for several hours and later brushed off on plants where -they become attached. Eggs can be easily seen hanging to -plants. Fish seldom bother eggs but it is safest to remove -plants containing eggs to another jar. Fry hatch in 10 to 14 -days. Feed fry infusoria. Never have snails in tank containing -fish eggs.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 45° to 80° F. Spawn best at 70° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Mature in about 6 mos.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very peaceful.</p> -<h3 id="c13"><b id="g_Zebra">ZEBRA</b>:<span class="hst"> DANIO RERIO (Ceylon)</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Both male and female striped from eyes through tail with -alternate lines of blue and silver. Underparts of male slightly -yellowish—female silvery white. Female—deeper in body.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—non-adhesive eggs fall to bottom. -Cover bottom of breeding tank with several layers ½″ pebbles -or glass marbles, not over 3 inches of water above marbles. -Place male and female (kept separate several days) in prepared -tank. Spawning usually takes place within 24 hours. -Spawning is preceded by very fast swimming. Remove parents -after spawning. Fry hatch in 2 to 8 days. Feed fry infusoria.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 45° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Breed when 4 to 5 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful, swim in school, constantly moving. -<br />(See <a class="gloss" href="#g_PearlDanio">Pearl Danio</a>.)</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<h3 id="c14"><b id="g_PearlDanio">PEARL DANIO</b> (above):<span class="hst"> DANIO ALBOLINEATUS</span> -<br />(Burma)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p07a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="380" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Iridescent mother-of-pearl and opal tints. Dull red line -through center of body and tail. Female—slightly heavier.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—prepare aquarium same as for Zebra. -Long tank best for both. As they snatch eggs when they turn, -long tank eliminates many turns. Advisable to use two males -to one female. (See <a class="gloss" href="#g_Zebra">Zebra</a>.)</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b> and <b>Temperament</b>: Same as Zebra.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 6 to 8 months.</p> -<h3 id="c15">GIANT DANIO<span class="hst"> DANIO MALABARICUS</span> -<br />(Malabar Coast)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Deep metallic blue with two horizontal stripes of yellow -gold. -<br />Female—slightly heavier.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—very small semi-adhesive eggs deposited -on plants. Fry need great amount of food. Remove -parents after spawning. (see <a class="gloss" href="#g_RosyBarb">Rosy Barb</a>.)</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 60° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 8 to 10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful, but will attack small fish.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Danios (Zebra, Pearl and Giant) are always active, and are -large consumers of oxygen, therefore are more susceptible to the -effects of lack of sufficient oxygen in the aquarium. Being fast -swimmers and especially fond of their own eggs, water in the -breeding tank should not exceed 6 inches and they should be removed -as soon as spawning is over.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div> -<h3 id="c16"><b id="g_RosyBarb">ROSY BARB</b>:<span class="hst"> BARBUS CONCHONIUS</span> -<br />(India)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Silvery green, dark spot at base of caudal. Male has black -dash on dorsal and takes on rosy hue during spawning season.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—lay eggs on fine plants similar to -goldfish. Stock aquarium well with fine plants like Myriophyllum -or Cabomba, weight down ends with a stone. Separate -male and female for a few days. Spawning usually takes place -within 48 hours after pair is placed together. After spawning -is completed remove plants containing eggs and place in tank -free from other fish and scavengers. Fry hatch in about a -week and should be fed with Brine Shrimp.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The following Barbs are prettily colored and easy to take care -of. Their breeding habits are like those of the Rosybarbs.</p> -<dl class="undent"><dt>BARBUS SUMATRANUS</dt> -<dt>BARBUS EVERETTI (CLOWN BARB)</dt> -<dt>BARBUS SEMIFASCIOLATUS (HALF BANDED)</dt> -<dt>BARBUS SEMIFASCIOLATUS var. Schuberti, (GOLD BARB)</dt> -<dt>BARBUS NIGROFASCIATUS</dt></dl> -</blockquote> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 45° to 80° F. Spawn best at 70° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Mature in about 9 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful.</p> -<h3 id="c17">BARBUS OLIGOLEPIS (below) -<br />(Sumatra)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Male—Large scales with blue-black spot, all fins orange-red -with dark edge. Female—Duller in color with 4 or 5 black -spots on sides.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—Stock aquarium with Cabomba. Male -turns almost black during spawning period. Remove both parents -as soon as eggs are deposited on fine plants. Fry hatch -in about 72 hours.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: (Peaceful.)</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<h3 id="c18">BLOOD FIN: (above) APHYOCHARAX RUBRIPINNIS -<br />(Argentine)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/p08a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="380" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Iridescent steel blue with deep red fins. Sex determined -same as Silver Tetra.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers. Use large tank, cover bottom with -fine plants, and ample tall ones. Fish spawn at surface, some -eggs adhering to tall plants, others falling. Remove parents. -Fry appear in about 24 hours. Feed Brine Shrimp. Fry grow -rapidly.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 78° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful.</p> -<h3 id="c19">SILVER TETRA:<span class="hst"> CTENOBRYCON SPILURUS</span> -<br />(Br. Guiana)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Steel blue body covered with very fine bright silver scales. -Body very thin. Large black spot at base of caudal. Tetras are -all easily identified by the small adipose fin between dorsal and -caudal. Male slightly smaller with invisible processes on anterior -tip of anal which catch in fine net. Sex is determined in -this way.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—lay great quantities of adhesive eggs -on fine plants. Plants or parents should be removed as soon -as spawning is completed. Fry will make their appearance -in a few days. Be sure there are no snails in tank with eggs.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 90° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 6 to 8 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very active. Not for community tank.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div> -<h3 id="c20">TETRA FROM RIO (above): HYPHESSOBRYCON FLAMMEUS -<br />(Brazil) -<br />TETRA FROM BUENOS AIRES: HEMIGRAMMUS CAUDOVITTATUS -<br />(Argentina)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="380" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: TETRA FROM RIO—body bright silver—3 black bars near -head; fins brilliant red edged with black; black edge on anal of -male wider than on female. During mating season red runs -well into body. TETRA FROM BUENOS AIRES—body bright -silver, fins blood red. Large diamond shaped spot at base of -caudal. Sex determined same as Silver Tetra.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers. Use 15 gallon tank, 6 to 8 inches -of water. Stock tank heavily with Cabomba, Myriophyllum, -or other fine floating plants, also a thicket on bottom. Semi-adhesive -eggs are deposited on plants, some sinking to bottom. -Best results are obtained with 2 males and 1 female. Remove -parents after spawning is completed. Fry appear in about 3 -days. Tiny fry hang on plants and sides of aquarium about -3 days. Tetras may not spawn immediately—have patience.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 90° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: From Rio—8 months. Buenos Aires—10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: From Rio—Very peaceful, Buenos Aires—Fairly -peaceful.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<h3 id="c21"><b id="g_PristellaRiddlei">PRISTELLA RIDDLEI</b>: (above) -<br />(Venezuela and Guiana)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/p09a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="345" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Silvery body, caudal reddish, anal and dorsal light yellow -with dark spot. Difficult to distinguish sex.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg Layers. Spawn on fine plants, Myriophyllum -or Cabomba—very small adhesive eggs, expelled 6 or 8 -at a time, often fall to bottom. Sometimes as many as 200 -eggs at a spawning. Remove parents after spawning.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 72° to 80° F.; best above 75° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: About 1 year.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful.</p> -<h3 id="c22">HEAD AND TAIL LIGHT:<span class="hst"> HEMIGRAMMUS OCELLIFER</span> -<br />(Amazon River, S. A.)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Body translucent green, faint gold line through center of -body, thin black line toward caudal base broadens into diamond -shape. Gleaming gold spot on tail and brilliant red eye give -fish its common name. Male smaller, more slender and has -pointed instead of rounded dorsal.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers. Adhesive eggs are deposited on -fine plants. Use 2 males to one female for best results. Fry -hatch in 2 days. (See <a class="gloss" href="#g_PristellaRiddlei">Pristella Riddlei</a>.)</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 72° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: About 8 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful. Young fairly hardy.</p> -<h3 id="c23">FEATHERFIN:<span class="hst"> HEMIGRAMMUS UNILINEATUS</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Like above Pristella Riddlei but has a black and white line -down the anal fin.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits and Temperament</b>: like Pristella.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div> -<h3 id="c24">JEWEL FISH:<span class="hst"> HEMICHROMIS BIMACULATUS</span> -<br />(Africa)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig15"> -<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Body bright scarlet blending to rich olive on back. Emerald -dots (jewels) in irregular lines cover body and vertical fins. -Frequently difficult to obtain mated pair.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—eggs are deposited on smooth stone -or flower pot, to which they adhere. During incubation (about -30 hours) one parent stands guard, constantly fanning to circulate -water over eggs. Fry are unable to swim first three days -so parents make hollow in sand where fry are placed and -guarded. After fry can swim, they form school with parents in -center. Remove parents when fry are about one-fourth grown -or sooner. Parents must not be excited or they will eat spawn -or fry.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 90° F. Fry above 75° F. Breed best at 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 10 to 14 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Very savage—male frequently attacks carefully -mated female.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>To spawn Cichlids (Jewel, Angel, Orange Chromide, Blue Acara -and Mouthbreeder) purchase several young fish—bring them to -maturity together. When ready for breeding a mated pair will be -found associating together and separated from the others.</p> -<p>Avoid disturbing Cichlids, any disturbance or noise may cause -them to devour their eggs or young.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div> -<h3 id="c25">ANGEL FISH:<span class="hst"> PTEROPHYLLUM SCALARE</span> -<br />(Amazon River, S. A.)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig16"> -<img src="images/p10a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="380" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">Reduced</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Bright silver, black bars, body very thin. Black bars disappear -when disturbed or frightened. Difficult to distinguish sex.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—very difficult to breed. Prefer sides -of aquarium or Sagittaria Gigantea for depositing eggs. Eggs -are fanned constantly by parents. Fry appear in about 8 days; -guarded, and transferred from one plant to another or depression -in sand, by parents. Fry swim in about a week and resemble -thread like worms. Remove parents when fry begin to -swim. Feed infusoria. Fry take shape of scalare in 3 to 5 weeks.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 90° F. 85° for spawning.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: One to one and a half years. Growth depends upon -quality and quantity of food and size of tank. Angel fish should -have as much live food as possible, largest tank available.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful. Easily frightened. Keep in large well -planted aquarium otherwise they may dart against sides and -kill themselves. Should be fed live food frequently. Large -specimens are not recommended for community tank.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div> -<h3 id="c26">BLUE ACARA:<span class="hst"> AEQUIDENS LATIFRONS</span> -<br />(Central America)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig17"> -<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">one half size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Yellowish brown with several dark vertical bands. One of -these bands widens in center of the body into a spot. Lines of -shining blue dots cover the entire body. Dorsal, anal and -caudal are wine red with rows of blue and blue-green spots. -Both sexes similar, female slightly subdued in color.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—Mate fish of approximately the -same size. Provide a clean flower pot for the fish to deposit -their spawn. The adhesive eggs are placed on the inside of -the flower pot and are then fertilized by the male. Eggs are -fanned by the parents and fry appear in 3 or 4 days. Parents -prepare a depression in the sand and taking the newly hatched -fry in their mouths deposit them into these holes where they -are carefully guarded by the parents. Young live in a swarm -in this “nest” for several days. Then they swim freely and -must be fed infusoria. Parents may be removed soon after -fry swim freely. The Blue Acara is hardy, prolific, easily -spawned, and the fry are hardy and develop rapidly.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 85° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Breed in about 8 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Not peaceful—except with very large fish.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div> -<h3 id="c27">MOUTH BREEDER:<span class="hst"> HAPLOCHROMIS STRIGIGENA</span> -<br />(Egypt)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig18"> -<img src="images/p11a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="341" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">one half size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Body light blue gray—fins yellowish—head very massive.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—deposit spawn in depression in -sand. After spawning is completed female picks up eggs and -carries them in her mouth. Water is circulated over eggs by a -chewing movement. Female refuses food during period she -carries eggs. Male should be removed as soon as female picks -up eggs as he may bother her. Fry appear in about two weeks, -but at the slightest sign of danger rush back into the mother’s -mouth. This continues until fry are too large for the maternal -jaw. Female should be removed when fry are about 5 weeks -old. Because of “fast” while carrying eggs, should be bred but -2 or 3 times a year.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 85° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 12 to 14 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Rather vicious.</p> -<h3 id="c28">ORANGE CHROMIDE: (below)<span class="hst"> ETROPLUS MACULATUS</span> -<br />(India)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Golden orange, 3 blue-black dots on sides crossed by rows of -small reddish dots. Dorsal brown, anal and pectorals dark. -Sex difficult to distinguish.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—Spawn on flower pot or stones -placed in the aquarium. Fry hatch in about 4 days and are -moved into pits in sand. Fry swim freely in about 6 days. Remove -parents in about two weeks.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: about 6 to 8 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Usually peaceful in large well planted tank.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div> -<h3 id="c29">THREE-SPOT GOURAMI:<span class="hst"> TRICHOGASTER TRICHOPTERUS</span> -<br />(India)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig19"> -<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="370" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Silvery olive with black spot in center of body, another at -caudal base—the eye making the third spot.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Same as Dwarf Gourami.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 85° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Not recommended for community tank.</p> -<h3 id="c30">BLUE GOURAMI:<span class="hst"> TRICHOGASTER SUMATRANUS</span></h3> -<p class="center">Form and size like three-spot gourami but color light blue.</p> -<h3 id="c31">DWARF GOURAMI: (below)<span class="hst"> COLISA LALIA (India)</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Body light blue crossed by orange-red stripes. Large fins -colored same as body. Female—subdued in color and fins -(dorsal and anal) slightly rounded.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Bubble nest builders—male blows nest of bubbles -on surface of water among floating plants. Female frequently -assists, weaving bits of plants into nest. Female is coaxed beneath -nest where eggs are expelled and fertilized. Male catches -eggs and blows them into bubble nest. Remove female. Eggs -hatch in several days. Male guards nest, blowing fry back into -nest until they are able to swim freely, to prevent their drowning. -Remove male when fry are 4 days old.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 70° to 90° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 8 to 10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Exceedingly peaceful and friendly.</p> -<p><i>Labyrinth fish prefer shallow water—spawning tank not to exceed 6″—tank -for fry not to exceed 4″.</i></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div> -<h3 id="c32">PARADISE:<span class="hst"> MACROPODUS OPERCULARIS</span> -<br />(South China)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig20"> -<img src="images/p12a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="373" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Body dark with vertical bars of deep red against bluish green -background. Fins similar in color, caudal deep red. Female—shorter -fins, color very pale during mating.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Bubble nest builder. When pair have mated -(frequently after the death of several undesirable females) the -male builds a floating nest of bubbles. Male coaxes female -under nest, winds himself about her, a gentle pressure expelling -eggs. He then gathers eggs in his mouth and blows them into -nest. Falling eggs and young fry are carefully blown back into -nest by male. Remove female when spawning is over. Fry -appear within 36 hours. Remove male in about 4 days.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 50° to 90° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: About 12 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Vicious, keep pair separated except when spawning. -(see Bettas.)</p> -<p>Labyrinth Fish (Gourami, Paradise, Bettas) are air breathers, -coming to the surface every few minutes for a bubble of air. -For this reason they can stand crowding, providing water is -kept clear. Fry do not develop this characteristic for several -weeks so must be provided with a large shallow container with -ample oxygen.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div> -<h3 id="c33">BETTAS:<span class="hst"> SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH</span> -<br />(Siam)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig21"> -<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: This attractive group (all hybrids of BETTA SPLENDENS) -have many color variations, all exceptionally attractive. BETTA -CAMBODIA: gold colored body—bright red fins. Those with -most red in body known as BETTA RUBRA. BETTA CYANA—body -and fins iridescent cornflower blue. Others often have -various shades of blue, green, red and purple predominating. -Females—subdued in color and lack long flowing fins.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Bubble nest builders—Male builds floating nest -of bubbles 3 to 6 inches in diameter. Female is coaxed and -forced under nest, male embraces her expelling eggs. Male -catches eggs and blows them into bubble nest. Remove female. -Fry hatch in 48 hours. Remove male in 10 days. Do not -crowd fry.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 65° to 90° F. 80° F. best for spawning.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: 8 to 10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Savage—two males will fight to a finish. Siamese -wager on outcome of these battles. Not advisable to keep -mated pairs together except when spawning. Separate pairs -with glass placed diagonally across aquarium. When spawning, -if male attacks female too viciously, replace glass.</p> -<p>(<i>One of these fish may be kept in Community Tank—they seem to attack -only their own species.</i>)</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div> -<h3 id="c34">PANCHAX FROM MADRAS:<span class="hst"> PANCHAX PARVUS</span> -<br />(India)</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig22"> -<img src="images/p13a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="368" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="jri i small">average size</span></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Male, rich deep greenish olive, sides covered with rows of -gleaming red and green spots, anal bright orange and red. -Dorsal and caudal are of similar colors. Female—dull with -light orange fins.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers, spawn readily in small tank, riccia -being a favorite plant for this purpose.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 72° to 80° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: peaceful.</p> -<h3 id="c35">RASBORA HETEROMORPHA: (below) -<br />(Sumatra)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Silvery copper with large blue-black triangle from dorsal -to caudal base. Dorsal and caudal red. Scales above black -triangle wider on male.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layers—Difficult to breed. Female swims -upside down against leaf of Cryptocoryne, expelling eggs, most -of which drop to bottom. Remove parents after spawning. -Fry hatch in about 2 days and resemble zebra fry. Swim -freely in about 5 days. Use 3 males and 2 females. Do not -have aquarium in direct rays of sun.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperature</b>: 72° to 85° F.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Maturity</b>: Breed at 10 months.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div> -<h3 id="c36">CATFISH:<span class="hst"> CORYDORAS PALEATUS</span> -<br />(South America)</h3> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="1 to 2 inches" width="500" height="318" /> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Shining olive green, towards the anal: yellowish to white. -Body covered with dark spots changing according to the surroundings. -Average size: 1 to 2 inches.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Egg layer. Distinguishing sex marks: male -smaller than female, and has pointed ventral fins, which are in -the female, rounded. Best breeding results are obtained in a -large aquarium. Two to three males for one female. Temperature -75 to 80 degrees. 60 to 500 eggs are carried by female in -her ventral fins to a clean spot which can be the glass of the -aquarium, a plant or stone. Babies hatch after 6 to 9 days. -The opinion of breeders is divided as to whether parents should -be removed. Good results were obtained either way.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Paleatus Catfish are the most peaceful fish and very -essential for the maintenance of every balanced aquarium. -They are regarded as the officers of the “Dept. of Sanitation” -among successful aquarists. Paleatus is a ground fish, tirelessly -picking up food remnants and left-overs which other fish -do not eat. Through this activity, Paleatus helps to keep the -food particles from contaminating the water. Catfish dart up -to the surface to breathe atmospheric air.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<h3 id="c37">WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN FISH:<span class="hst"> TANICHTHYS ALBONUBES</span> -<br />(China)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Form and color similar to Pearl Danio but with gold and -blue line from eye to caudal fin, dorsal and caudal fins deep -red, male has white tip above red caudal fins.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Average temperature 80 degrees. Eggs not adhesive. -One female to two males, eggs hatch after two to three -days. Remove parents after spawning. Tiny fry must be -supplied with infusoria or better still, Brine Shrimp (see <a href="#Page_27">p. 27</a>).</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Temperament</b>: Peaceful and hearty, “called poorman’s Neon Tetra” -since the bright colored babies closely resemble Neon Tetras.</p> -<h3 id="c38">WHITE PARADISE:<span class="hst"> ALBINO PARADISE</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Generally white and the red bars show faintly. Like most -albinos their eyes are pink.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Just like their original form, the Red Paradise. -The albino color breeds true. (See <a href="#Page_23">page 23</a>.)</p> -<h3 id="c39">BLACK TETRA:<span class="hst"> GYMNOCORYMBUS TERNETZI</span> -<br />(Paraguay)</h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Same size like Tetra from Rio but black in color.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits and Temperament</b> also like Tetra from Rio. (see -<a href="#Page_16">page 16</a>.)</p> -<h3 id="c40">BLUE MOLLY:<span class="hst"> MOLLIENISIA SPHENOPS</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Sphenops are found in various color schemes varying from -jet black to pure light blue, very often blue body with scattered -black spots. The caudal of male adorned with bright orange -border.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: Heartier and more easily bred than ordinary -Black Mollies.</p> -<h3 id="c41">LIBERTY MOLLY:<span class="hst"> VAR. SPHENOPS</span></h3> -<p class="revint"><b>Color</b>: Body color of male and female light blue, but males dorsal -shows “red, white and blue”.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Habits</b>: (see <a href="#Page_11">page 11</a>.)</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div> -<h3 id="c42">GOLD FISH:</h3> -<div class="img" id="fig23"> -<img src="images/p15.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="384" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Veiltail</i></p> -</div> -<p class="revint"><b>History</b>: The Gold Fish, the oldest and most popular of our -numerous Aquarium Fish, was developed by the Chinese during -the Sung Dynasty (960-1278) from the wild Carassius -Auratus to the various varieties now familiar to us.</p> -<p>In the year 1750 Madame de Pompadour imported the first -Goldfish into France as showpieces for the ornamental waterpools -in her vast gardens. In 1856, P. T. Barnum was sent by The American -Museum to search for oddities in Europe and to study the then -popular fad of keeping live fish in aquariums. Thus our now -familiar Goldfish made its debut in America. With its golden -beauty and its sturdiness, the Goldfish quickly became the Parlor -Pet of our parents and grandparents. Today the sales of American-bred -Goldfish run into the millions.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<p>It would be beyond the limits of this booklet to explain and -fully describe all the various forms and color variations of our goldfish, -as there are Comets, Fantails, Shubunkins, Black Moors, etc. -Most Goldfish do not reach their full life span of 4 to 6 years and -often more, because they are fed too much and are given too little -“Living Space.” Feed your fish only once a day during the morning -and make sure that all food is consumed within 10 to 15 -minutes. Any surplus food will fall to the bottom and will contaminate -the water. The surest sign of overfeeding is cloudy and -milky looking water. This bad water is poor in oxygen and the fish -will hang on the surface and frantically gasp for atmospheric air. -Any nationally known brand of Goldfish food will be suitable for -your fish, but once more: DO NOT OVERFEED. The proper size -of the aquarium should be comparable to the amount of fish or -vice versa. The happy medium is about 1 small fish per gallon of -water. An aquarium of five gallons capacity can, therefore, hold -no more than 4 to 5 small Goldfish, but fish of larger size must -have much larger space. The most suitable temperature is between -60 and 70 degrees, Fahrenheit.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Breeding Hints</b>: During the breeding season which falls during -the first seven months of the year, the male will show small -warts of pin point size on his gill plates. The female is shorter -than the male but fuller in body, more so, when carrying spawn. -A mature fish is about 3-10 inches long, depending on type -and a pair must therefore have a breeding aquarium of at -least 10 gallons. The fish will spawn on myriophyllum, long -rooted water hyacinths, or other soft bunchy plants and the -eggs will hatch in about 4-7 days. Since the parent fish like -to eat their own spawn, it is therefore advisable to remove -either the parents or the plants with their adhering eggs. The -newly hatched babies are fed with infusoria and later on with -fish food of a fine grain.</p> -<p class="revint"><b>Diseases</b>: Fin Congestion and Fungus are the most frequent Goldfish -diseases. Their best cure is the salt treatment which is -described on <a href="#Page_33">page 33</a>.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div> -<h3 id="c43">TURTLES</h3> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p16.jpg" alt="{Turtle aquarium}" width="500" height="263" /> -</div> -<p>Baby turtles are very easily kept as pets and require little -care. While in captivity, Turtles will forget their time schedule -and will not hibernate. Any round or oval bowl, an aquarium or a -flat pan with a rim sufficiently high to prevent the turtle from -crawling out, is an adequate home. In this container, place white -or colored pebbles, and in the center a flat stone. Fill the container -with clean water of room temperature (60 to 80 degrees, fahrenheit) -but see to it that the stone is not covered by the water for it will -serve as an “Island” and thus give the turtle a chance to leave the -wet element when desired. The best place for the bowl is in a -light place, but special care should be taken to see that the bowl is -not exposed too long to the direct sun. Ant Eggs, commonly packed -as “Turtle Food” will mainly be their diet but lean raw beef, which -is finely scraped, will be an appreciated change. The same applies -for green lettuce, rainworms, etc. A variation in food and sunshine -will prevent blindness, but should a turtle get a white film over its -eyes, a few drops of Cod liver Oil forced by a medicine dropper in -its mouth, might help. Boric acid swabbed over the eyes will also -be beneficial. Turtles will not feed “on land” therefore all food -should be placed in the water. Water should be changed two to -three times weekly.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div> -<h2 id="c44"><span class="small">HEALTH</span></h2> -<p>It is much easier to keep fish healthy than to cure them.</p> -<p>Disturb your fish as little as possible.</p> -<p>Fish in good health are active and keep dorsal fin erect. (Folded -fins for a short period do not mean a sick fish.)</p> -<p>Most fish ills develop from chills. Keep fish above lowest safe -temperature. Young fry especially should be kept warm.</p> -<p>Avoid extremes of temperature. Avoid sudden changes of temperature. -Provide some type of aquarium heater for cold months.</p> -<p>Do not crowd fish—be sure plants are thriving and there is -ample oxygen in water.</p> -<p>Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen. -Remove part of water and replace with fresh of same temperature.</p> -<p>Dying plants cause much trouble—be sure plants are healthy -and growing.</p> -<p>It is much easier to keep fish healthy in a large tank (above 5 -gallons). A large tank maintains a more uniform temperature, -allows more air surface, plants thrive better, and water is not -fouled so easily by excess food.</p> -<p>An aquarium can be maintained in healthy condition, both -plants and fish thriving, under artificial lighting furnished by an -ordinary light bulb.</p> -<p>Vary the diet for the fish. Feed only as much as they will eat -in ten minutes. Feed sparingly and several times a day if necessary. -Use glass feeding ring. (<a href="#fig4">Fig. 4</a>). All uneaten food drops to one spot -where it can be easily removed with a dip tube.</p> -<p>Health and growth of fry depend upon oxygen supply. Use -tank with large air surface. BE SURE AND DO NOT CROWD -YOUNG FRY. Crowding stunts growth and frequently causes -disease, and loss of whole brood. Fry -demand approximately same amount -of water as adults—see <a href="#Page_31">page 31</a>.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig24"> -<img src="images/p16a.jpg" alt="" width="367" height="161" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·4</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig25"> -<img src="images/p16b.jpg" alt="" width="291" height="305" /> -<p class="pcap">Tropicals in poor condition, (usually indicated by folded fins). -<br />Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig26"> -<img src="images/p16c.jpg" alt="" width="518" height="342" /> -<p class="pcap">SEVERAL HOURS DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY -<br />Always keep glass cover on aquarium. -<br />Always keep a thermometer in aquarium.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig27"> -<img src="images/p16d.jpg" alt="" width="331" height="343" /> -<p class="pcap">Never give fish more food than they can clean up in ten minutes.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div> -<h2 id="c45"><span class="small">FOOD</span></h2> -<p><b>Do Not Overfeed</b>—Never give fish more food than they can -clean up in ten minutes.</p> -<p><b>Vary the Diet</b>—Have several kinds of food on hand at all times. -Dried Shrimp, Dried Daphnae, scrapings from raw beef, bits of -canned salmon, bits of boiled spinach, finely crumbed graham -cracker, bits of yolk of boiled egg, and most of the prepared foods -are excellent but should be supplemented with some form of live -food. Once a week they should be fed chopped earth worms or -Enchytrae (White worms). Feed live bearer’s fry small quantity -of fine foods several times a day. Feed egg layer’s fry Brine -Shrimp twice a day the first couple weeks and then feed same as -live bearer’s fry.</p> -<p><b>Several Feedings a Day</b>—Feeding a very small quantity of food -several times a day (what the fish will clean up in several minutes) -is probably more desirable than one feeding providing great care -is taken not to feed too much at one time.</p> -<p><b>Tropicals Will Not Overeat</b>—Unlike goldfish, tropicals will eat -only as much as they need but great care must be exercised in -order to allow no uneaten food in the aquarium to foul the water -and cause disease.</p> -<p><b>Tubifex worms</b> are found in fresh water streams and rivers, -close to shore in soft loamy bottom. They are an excellent live -food provided they are fed to the fish with care. Keep in cool -place in container having large air surface with just enough water -to cover them. Since they bury themselves in the gravel, it is -best to feed them to the fish with a worm feeder. The best type -of feeder has a quantity of small holes through which the worms -wriggle into the mouths of the fish eagerly waiting below. For -baby fish it is best to cut the worms into small pieces.</p> -<p><b>Enchytrae</b> (<b>White Worms</b>) multiply rapidly in a wooden box -(about 10″ square) filled with about 5″ of rich loamy soil. Portion -of worms is placed in soil and whole mass kept fairly moist. Feed -slice of bread soaked in sweet or sour milk every 3 or 4 days. Be -sure all food is covered with at least 1″ of soil. Before feeding be -sure all old food is consumed. They may be fed cooked oatmeal or -mashed potatoes WITHOUT SALT. Stir soil once a week to aerate -it and prevent souring. Cover soil with piece of glass to keep -moisture in. Keep in cool dark place.</p> -<p><b>BRINE SHRIMP</b>—To raise Egglaying Fish, the use of Brine -Shrimp (<a href="#fig28">fig. 5</a>) replaces the old fashioned Infusoria method more -and more. Brine Shrimp Eggs are available in any good pet shop -and are easily hatched. Directions for hatching Brine Shrimp Eggs -are found on package.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<h2 id="c46"><span class="small">DISEASE</span></h2> -<p>Tropical Fish are naturally healthy. If kept in a healthy -aquarium, fed properly and kept warm little or no trouble will be -experienced. In short—IT IS EASIER TO KEEP FISH HEALTHY -THAN TO CURE THEM.</p> -<p>Practically all diseases are due to one of the following: UNHEALTHY -TANK—water too acid or alkaline—lack of oxygen—decomposition -of food—plants not thriving. IMPROPER FEEDING—Overfeeding, -lack of live food, lack of variation in diet. -CHILL—the cause of most fish ills. Fish is weakened and subject -to diseases, many incurable.</p> -<p><b>Ichthyopthirius (Ich)</b>: A parasite that attacks the fish. -Recognized by tiny white spot on fins. Fish have fins folded and -scratch themselves on sand. Contagious. Treat whole tank (plants -and snails need not be removed). Raise temperature to 80° F. -Add about two drops 2% Mercurochrome to each gallon of water. -If fish are not cured in 3 or 4 days repeat treatment.</p> -<p><b>Shimmy</b>: A wagging movement without changing position is -usually the result of a chill affecting digestive organs. Not contagious—give -salt treatment.</p> -<p><b>Dropsy</b>: Body swells, scales stand out at an angle. Fish act -normal until a few days before death. Salt treatment sometimes -brings relief. Cure doubtful.</p> -<p><b>Wounds or Ulcers</b>: Wrap piece of cotton on toothpick; hold -fish in damp cloth and paint wound for 2 minutes with Mercurochrome -twice a day. Do not allow Mercurochrome to touch gills.</p> -<p><b>Constipation</b>: 1 tablespoon Epsom Salts to 5 gallons of water.</p> -<p><b>Air Bladder Trouble</b>: Caused by sudden temperature change. -Fish swim either at top or stay near bottom. Cure unknown.</p> -<p><b>Blood Shot Fins—Tailrot</b>: Condition caused by sudden temperature -change or injury. Use salt treatment.</p> -<p><b>Fungus</b>—White scum forms over fish. Use salt treatment.</p> -<p><b>Fluke</b>: Flat and sunken belly. No known cure.</p> -<p><b>Salt Treatment</b>: Use glass or enamel container, raise temperature -to 80° F., 1 teaspoonful rock or sea salt per gallon of -water. (May be doubled in extreme cases.) Salt (Rock or Epsom) -will kill snails and plants.</p> -<p><b>Tropicals</b> in poor condition, usually indicated by folded fins, -should be isolated at once. Gradually raise temperature to 80° F. -Feed live food. Give salt treatment. Frequently a cure is affected -by placing ailing fish in tank of “green water.” (see <a href="#Page_31">page 31</a>.)</p> -<p>Sick fish more easily cured in shallow water.</p> -<p>Sudden changes of temperature may be fatal to weakened fish.</p> -<p>Potassium permanganate solution is an excellent disinfectant -and deodorant. Also destroys algae in aquarium and pool. Tint -water faint pink, repeat when color disappears. Avoid excess.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div> -<h2 id="c47"><span class="small">ENEMIES</span></h2> -<p>Fish enemies are usually transferred to the aquarium by the -introduction of new aquatic plants that are obtained from outside -pools. To avoid fish enemies—AVOID USING PLANTS AND -SAND THAT ARE OBTAINED FROM OUTSIDE POOLS OR -PONDS. If you are suspicious of source rinse for a minute or two -through a strong solution of salt water. This should kill all insects -and not injure plants. Examine plants carefully for eggs. <a href="#fig29">Fig. 6</a> -shows larvae of Giant Beetle (Water Tiger). <a href="#fig30">Fig. 7</a>, larvae of -Dragon Fly. Both attack fairly large fish and devour small ones -in quantities.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig28"> -<img src="images/p16f.jpg" alt="" width="111" height="136" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·5</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig29"> -<img src="images/p17.jpg" alt="" width="349" height="162" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·6</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig30"> -<img src="images/p17a.jpg" alt="" width="365" height="139" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·7</p> -</div> -<p>HYDRA—a polyp, fastens itself to -plants or glass. It has a variety of -shapes and is hard to distinguish particularly -on plants. It attacks and quickly -drugs fish by injecting a poison. Hydra -can be killed by removing all fish and -scavengers and raising temperature of -tank to 115° F.</p> -<h2 id="c48"><span class="small">AERATION</span></h2> -<p>Replacing consumed oxygen by blowing a stream of very fine -air bubbles through the aquarium water is frequently necessary in -aquariums, where plants receive insufficient light or are not thriving, -where the air surface is small (depth greater than width), -where crowding is necessary, etc. Even in healthy aquariums, where -plants are thriving, conditions will be improved by an hour or two -of aeration daily. Many types of aerators are available.</p> -<h2 id="c49"><span class="small">CONTROL OF ACIDITY AND ALKALINITY</span></h2> -<p>Due to the fact that in some localities the natural water supply -is alkaline, in others neutral, and in others acid much has been -written about controlling aquarium water.</p> -<p>Many aquarists believe that a slightly acid condition in the -aquarium is desirable.</p> -<p>There are a number of reliable water testing sets available at -very nominal prices.</p> -<p>Most of the fish described in this book seem to thrive and breed -better in slightly acid water (about pH6.8).</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div> -<h2 id="c50"><span class="small">HELPFUL HINTS</span></h2> -<p>Get your experience from the more common varieties first.</p> -<p>Half grown fish are best to buy—you are sure of obtaining -young fish, and it is interesting to watch them mature.</p> -<p>Fish ready to spawn: Females become heavier. Also on live -bearers the dark spot near vent becomes larger and darker. Males -chase females continually at spawning time. Labyrinth male builds -bubble nest.</p> -<p>Live bearers are easiest to breed. Eggs are hatched within the -female’s body and the young are born alive.</p> -<p>Female live bearers seek secluded places to give birth to their -young. If one corner of the community tank (toward light) is -heavily planted, and ample floating plants provided, quite a few -young will survive. These can be removed until old enough to -return to community tank—in about 4 or 5 weeks, dependent on -growth.</p> -<p>Female live bearers will eat their young. If placed in separate -tank remove female as soon as brood is produced.</p> -<p>Female live bearers will produce several broods after being -separated from male.</p> -<p>Live bearer’s fry are sometimes born with an “egg sac,” usually -the result of premature birth.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig31"> -<img src="images/p17b.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="400" /> -<p class="pcap">Tools</p> -</div> -<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>NET</dt> -<dt>GLASS FEEDING RING</dt> -<dt>PLANTING TONGS</dt> -<dt>THERMOMETERS</dt> -<dt>PLANTING SNIPS</dt> -<dt>AQUARIUM CLEANER</dt> -<dt>DIP TUBE</dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_36">36</div> -<div class="img" id="fig32"> -<img src="images/p18.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="157" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">AVOID -<br /><span class="smaller">1·SUDDEN TEMPERATURE CHANGE. -<br />2·CROWDING LACK OF OXYGEN. -<br />3·EXCESS FOOD.</span></span></p> -</div> -<p>To save young live bearers, females are frequently placed in a -trap. Be sure female has ample room to swim freely. Many -varieties of traps are available.</p> -<p>To breed egg layers, male and female should be separated for -several days before being placed in spawning tank.</p> -<p>All fish are more prolific during warm weather.</p> -<p>Practically all fish will eat young fry.</p> -<p>Algae—a fine green plant growth—is caused by an excess of -light. Remove as much of the growth as possible and reduce -amount of light.</p> -<p>Floating algae—green water—is caused by the -same condition. Cut down light and condition -usually clears itself. (See <a href="#Page_4">page 4</a>.) Coloring water -in tank a faint pink with a solution of potassium -permanganate will usually clear this condition. -Green water is actual healthy water for fish.</p> -<p>Algae may be cleaned off glass by scraping with -safety razor blade. (<a href="#fig8">Fig. 8</a>.)</p> -<p>Cloudy water usually caused by improperly balanced -tank. Remedy: more plants or less fish, -better light, more scavengers, less food.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig33"> -<img src="images/p18a.jpg" alt="" width="232" height="350" /> -<p class="pcap">FIG·8</p> -</div> -<p>Cloud at bottom of tank is usually caused by decaying of -excess food.</p> -<p>Plants thrive better in deep sand; roots spread and absorb -decaying matter.</p> -<p>Always use sea salt. Table salt is questionable since it is -chemically treated to prevent caking.</p> -<p>Tropicals thrive under more crowded conditions than goldfish. -2 or 3 pairs per gallon in healthy aquarium, about 6″ fish body per -gallon.</p> -<p>Always sterilize net with boiling water after handling sick fish.</p> -<p>Slow leaks in aquariums will usually be sealed by painting all -inside and outside seams with liquid aquarium cement.</p> -<p>To obtain number of gallons of water in tank—divide cubic -contents in inches by 231.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<h2 id="c51"><span class="small">INDEX</span></h2> -<p class="center">* Subjects marked * are illustrated</p> -<p class="center"><a class="ab" href="#index_A">A</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_B">B</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_C">C</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_D">D</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_E">E</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_F">F</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_G">G</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_H">H</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_I">I</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_J">J</a> <span class="ab">K</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_L">L</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_M">M</a> <span class="ab">N</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_O">O</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_P">P</a> <span class="ab">Q</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_R">R</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_S">S</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_T">T</a> <span class="ab">U</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_V">V</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_W">W</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_X">X</a> <span class="ab">Y</span> <span class="ab">Z</span></p> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_A">A</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Accessories</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_35">35</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Aeration</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Aequidens Latifrons</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_20">20</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*African Snail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Albino Paradise</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Algae</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_36">36</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Anacharis</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Angel Fish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_19">19</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Aphyocharax Rubripinnis</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Artemia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Australian Snail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_B">B</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Barbus Conchonius</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_14">14</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Barbus Oligolepis</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_14">14</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Betta</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_24">24</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Black Mollienisia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_11">11</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Black Tetra</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Blood Fin</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Blue Acara</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_20">20</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Blue Gourami</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Blue Molly</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Breeding Trap</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_35">35</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Brine Shrimp</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_C">C</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Catfish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_26">26</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Characins</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Cichlids</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_21">21</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Clams</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Cabomba</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Colisa Lalia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Coral Snail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Corydoras Paleatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_26">26</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Cryptocoryne</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Ctenobrycon Spilurus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Cyprinodontidae</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_25">25</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_D">D</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Danio Albolineatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Danio Malabaricus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Danio Rerio</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Dip Tube</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_4">4</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Disease</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Dragon Fly Larvae</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Dropsy</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Duck Weed</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Dwarf Gourami</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_E">E</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Electric Lighting</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Enchytrae</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Enemies</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Etroplus Maculatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_21">21</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_F">F</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Families</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Featherfins</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Feeding Rings</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_31">31</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Food</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Fresh Water Mussel</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_G">G</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Giant Danio</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Golden Danio</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Goldfish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_29">29</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Guppy</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_H">H</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Hair Grass</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Haplochromis Strigigena</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_21">21</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Happy Family</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Head & Tail Light</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Health</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_29">29</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Helleri</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_3">3</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Hemichromis Bimaculatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_18">18</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Hemigrammus Caudovittatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_16">16</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Hemigrammus Ocellifer</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Hemigrammus Unilineatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Heterandria Formosa</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Hydra</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Hyphessobrycon Flameus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_16">16</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_I">I</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Ich</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Ichthyopthirius</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Infusoria</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_J">J</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Jewel Fish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_18">18</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_L">L</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Labyrinth</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_24">24</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Lebistes Reticulatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Liberty Molly</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Live Bearers</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Ludwigia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_M">M</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Macropodus Opercularis</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_29">29</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Medaka</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Melantho Snail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Mollienisia Latipinna</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_10">10</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Mollienisia Sphenops</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Moons Gold</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dd><span class="jl">Red</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dd> -<dd><span class="jl">Blue</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dd> -<dd><span class="jl">Black</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dd> -<dd><span class="jl">Wagtail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dd> -<dt><span class="jl">*Mosquito Fish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Mouth Breeder</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_21">21</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Myriophyllum</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_O">O</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Orange Chromide</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_21">21</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Oryzias Latipes</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_P">P</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Paleatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_26">26</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Panchax</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_25">25</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Paradise</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_23">23</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Pearl Danio</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">pH</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Planting</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_3">3</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Platy</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Platy Variatus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Platypoecilia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Pond Snail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Preparing the Aquarium</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_3">3</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Pristella Riddlei</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Pterophyllum Scalare</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_19">19</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_R">R</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Rasbora Heteromorpha</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_25">25</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Riccia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Rosy Barb</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_14">14</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_S">S</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Sagittaria</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Sailfin</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_10">10</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Salamander American</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Salvinia</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Schuberti</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_14">14</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Shrimp</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Siamese Fighting Fish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_24">24</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Silver Tetra</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Siphon</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_4">4</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Snails</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Southern Spatterdock</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Sphenops</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Swordtail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_8">8</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_T">T</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Tanichthys Albonubes</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Tetra from Buenos Aires</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_16">16</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Tetra From Rio</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_16">16</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Three-Spot Gourami</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Trichogaster Sumatranus</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Trumpet Snail</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Tubifex Worms</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Turtles</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_V">V</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Vallisneria</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_W">W</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Wagtail, Platies</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Water Control</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Water Tiger</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">White Cloud Mountain Fish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">White Paradise</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_27">27</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">White Worms</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b" id="index_X">X</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Xiphophorus Helleri</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_8">8</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">*Zebra Fish</span> <a class="htm" href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -</dl> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li> -<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in <i>italics</i> is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -</ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Tropical Fish Handbook, by Guenther-Lothar Schott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TROPICAL FISH HANDBOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 62463-h.htm or 62463-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/4/6/62463/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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