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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #62286 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/62286)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Kachina Dolls, by Walter Bernard Hunt
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Kachina Dolls
-       Milwaukee Public Museum Popular Science Handbook Series #7, Sept. 1957
-
-Author: Walter Bernard Hunt
-
-Release Date: May 30, 2020 [EBook #62286]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KACHINA DOLLS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-    [Illustration: KACHINA DOLLS]
-
-
-
-
-                             KACHINA DOLLS
-
-
-                                                                      BY
-                                                             W. BEN HUNT
-
-
-MILWAUKEE PUBLIC MUSEUM
-
-        POPULAR SCIENCE HANDBOOK SERIES NO. 7    SEPTEMBER 1957
-
-              PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES
-                     ©1953 MILWAUKEE PUBLIC MUSEUM
-
-
-
-
-                                PREFACE
-
-
-                       by ROBERT E. RITZENTHALER
-                        Curator of Anthropology
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-On the sentinel-like mesas in the semi-desert land of northeastern
-Arizona dwell some 3,500 of one of our most colorful Indian tribes of
-today, the Hopi. Living in their traditional adobe, multi-storied
-“apartment houses,” called “Pueblos,” they practice many of their old
-ways and customs, and remain one of the tribes least affected by the
-white man. Agriculturalists they were and agriculturalists they are,
-filling the fields at the base of the mesas, raising corn, beans, and
-squash, but above all, corn. In this area where land is good, but
-moisture is all-important, the Hopi have developed a religion much
-concerned with prayers and ceremonies to bring rain and good crops.
-During the Snake Dance, for example, snakes are held in the mouths of
-the dancers and then released into the desert as messengers to the gods
-to inform them that the Hopi need rain.
-
-Less widely known to the world than the Snake Dance, but very important
-to the Hopi as a spiritual means of petitioning for rain, good weather,
-bountiful crops, and other blessings, is the Kachina cult. The Hopi
-believe that the Kachinas are a band of supernatural beings who live in
-the nearby mountains and pay visits to the villages at intervals during
-the first half of each year. At these times the men don the masks and
-costumes representing particular Kachinas, and perform dances and
-ceremonies in their honor. By wearing these costumes the men not only
-physically impersonate the Kachinas, but also assume their spirits. The
-dances and ceremonies take place both in the underground chambers,
-called kivas, where only men are allowed, and out on the village plazas
-where all may watch. During the latter, the dancers follow the leader in
-single file to the plaza where they line up facing east. The leader, at
-the center, begins the singing to the rhythm of his rattle; then the
-others join in, and the dancing begins. For the next song the dancers
-face north, then west, after which they distribute gifts, usually a bow
-and arrow for a boy and a Kachina doll for a girl. They then retire to a
-secluded area to unmask, relax, and prepare for the next set of songs
-and dances.
-
-In some of the dances 30 or 40 men will be dressed alike; in others a
-variety of Kachinas participate. Besides the serious dances there are
-humorous ones put on by clowns, or “mudheads” as they are popularly
-called. The mudheads are distinguished by their distinctive, mud-colored
-masks and provoke much laughter with their impromptu pranks and
-burlesquing of both Indian and white man, and even of the Kachina
-dances.
-
-While the term “Kachina” refers to the mythological beings, and to the
-masked dancers who impersonate them, it is also used to refer to the
-dolls, which are miniature but accurate reproductions of them. Kachina
-dolls are made by the men to be given to the girls during the Kachina
-ceremonies. Children eagerly await the Giver Kachina, the counterpart of
-our Santa Claus, who wears a blue mask and carries a bundle of gifts on
-his back. His arrival is announced by a herald stationed on a roof top.
-He passes among the crowd distributing gifts to the children, such as
-candy, bows and arrows, and the especially desired Kachina dolls. Each
-girl receives at least one, and some may receive as many as a half
-dozen. They are played with as dolls, often being carried about in
-miniature cradles. They also, however, serve a useful purpose in
-acquainting the Hopi children with the names, kinds, details of
-costumes, and religious lore of the Kachinas. In a very real sense,
-then, they are the educational toys of the Hopi. The dolls are never
-worshipped and are not to be considered idols, but rather serve as
-constant reminders of the Kachinas, especially during the summer and
-fall when the Kachinas have returned to their mountain home. They are
-handled and carried about the village by the girls, but for the most
-part they will be seen hanging from the walls or rafters of the pueblo
-rooms.
-
-The dolls described in this booklet are but a few of the many types. Not
-even the Hopi can tell you how many different Kachinas there are, but
-their number has been estimated at 250. Only about 200 are in current
-use, and these change with the years as new ones are added, and others
-disappear from usage.
-
-
-
-
-                              INTRODUCTION
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-Our Southwest is a veritable treasure chest of interesting things made
-by clever Indian craftsmen. Here and there, at Indian trading posts or
-Indian roadside stands along the way, among the rugs, sashes, pottery,
-and silver and turquoise jewelry, you will find Kachina dolls. Not too
-many. Up until a few years ago they were quite scarce in the trading
-posts, but could be bought at the various Hopi pueblos, where the best
-ones are made. While they were originally made for their little girls,
-as stated in the preface, they produced even more of them when it was
-discovered that tourists prized them. And like everything else, someone
-saw a chance to earn a dollar and started to manufacture them. Some
-years ago the Japanese even went so far as to make them of papier-mache.
-Many of them are machined and given a quick coat of paint. But you can
-still buy good Kachina dolls both on the mesas and at trading posts.
-
-All in all the Hopi-made dolls are good, and usually when you find one a
-bit worn, with a cord around its neck, you can figure that at one time
-it adorned a pueblo wall. The Hopi Kachina makers take great pride in
-their work. Their dolls are made out of cottonwood roots, which gives
-them that sort of rough texture that is pleasing to the eye. Some of the
-very old dolls have cloth and buckskin clothing to make them more
-realistic, but for the most part they are made entirely of wood with the
-exception of feathers and fluffs, as shown in the following pages.
-
-As mentioned before, there are about 250 different Kachinas, but the
-Hopi do not make that many different dolls. There are certain Kachinas
-that lend themselves better to carved dolls, and it is with these that
-we will deal.
-
-Years ago, when starting out boys and girls in whittling, I made it a
-practice to give them Kachina dolls to whittle, for various reasons. It
-acquainted them with the feel of wood and the meaning of grain. It
-taught them how to sharpen a knife, and how to use it. And best of all,
-they whittled figures without having to worry about human faces, which
-are the bugaboo of all whittling novices, and a lot of others, too.
-
-This booklet will mainly show how Kachina dolls are whittled and
-painted, and to what use they can be put. This is not an ethnological
-thesis, but is written for the craft-minded who like to whittle, and who
-like Kachina dolls. I do not imagine that anyone will make all of the
-objects listed and described, but there may be one or more of them that
-you will enjoy making.
-
-The first thing you will need is a piece of wood. Since it would be
-rather difficult to obtain cottonwood roots, our next best bet is a
-piece of straight-grained soft wood. I have used sections of green,
-knot-free basswood, willow, and poplar saplings or branches with good
-results. A piece of wood about 1½ inches in diameter is of a proper size
-to start out with. The green wood whittles easily and, due to the short
-lengths and deep cuts, it is not likely to check. And of course it is
-already round.
-
-Also, white pine, sugar pine, and basswood can usually be bought at a
-lumber yard or millwork shop. It should be cut in rectangular sections
-and then rounded.
-
-Then, of course, you will need a knife that holds an edge. A good
-quality of pocket knife is best, and all the whittling I have ever done
-has been with a small blade, from 1¼ to 1½ inches long. As the knife
-comes from the store it is not sharp enough for whittling. So get a
-small abrasive stone, and a piece of leather to strop it on, and sharpen
-it until you cannot see the edge; as long as you can see a “white” line
-or spot on the edge, your knife is not sharp. Thereafter, keep it sharp
-at all times.
-
-You will also need sandpaper to sand down the knife cuts in the wood.
-
-Now for the part that worries most beginners: painting the dolls. If you
-have a fairly steady hand, and use a good brush, this should not be too
-much of a problem. I have often said that it a person can pare a potato
-without wasting it, and can write fairly well, he or she can make a
-Kachina doll.
-
-We use water colors for painting. That is what the Hopi use, and water
-colors are not so messy. While any good brand of water colors will do
-the trick, you will have the best success with poster or show-card
-colors. They are opaque and cover better than transparent water colors.
-Although many of the old Kachina makers use brushes made out of yucca
-leaf stems, chewed and trimmed to the sizes required, you can pick up a
-couple or three small brushes that will do a better job. Sable-hair
-brushes are best, but also more expensive.
-
-Painting the dolls is not as difficult as one may think. Remember—you
-don’t have to paint faces, and the masks are all more or less abstract
-or symbolic in design. And furthermore you don’t have to do any shading
-or blending. It is all flat work.
-
-There are two methods of painting. Most of the old-time Kachina makers
-give the entire doll a coat of white paint first, and the rest is
-painted over that. But usually, with good poster colors to work with, it
-is easier to lay out and paint each color directly on the bare wood. The
-colors dry rather rapidly and, if used rather thick (not too much
-water), they will not be apt to run or bleed where colors overlap. So
-don’t let the painting stop you. I have seen cub scouts make some very
-nice looking dolls.
-
-The Indian does nothing to preserve the painted surface and the water
-colors are apt to smudge and wear off. On the other hand, a glossy
-surface on a doll looks awful, and is not in character. So we suggest
-that you use a light spray coat or two of Krylon, or Spray-fix, or any
-other crystal-clear spray, such as come in bomb cans. Krylon is a
-crystal-clear plastic spray, and Spray-fix is a fixative (in a bomb can)
-such as is used by artists to prevent smudging of pencil, charcoal, or
-pastel drawings. But whatever you use to preserve the water color, it
-should be “water white” and should not be sprayed on to impart a shiny
-surface, except where stated otherwise in the following pages.
-
-Naturally, questions arise as to where one can get ideas for more
-difficult kinds of Kachina dolls, or Kachina costumes. Here are a couple
-of good books which contain such information: Hopi Kachinas, by Edward
-Kemrard; Ceremonial Costumes of the Pueblo Indians, by Virginia
-Roediger.
-
-Moreover, Kachina dolls are shown from time to time in Arizona Highways
-Magazine and there are many crayon drawings of Kachinas, made by a Hopi
-Indian, in the 1899-1900 Annual Report of the Bureau of American
-Ethnology.
-
-    [Illustration: PALAH’IKO MANA]
-
-    [Illustration: HEMIS]
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-    [Illustration: PAK IOKWICK]
-
-    [Illustration: MUDHEAD]
-
-
-
-
-                           HOPI KACHINA DOLLS
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-The dolls shown {above} were carefully drawn from old specimens in the
-collection in the Milwaukee Public Museum. Each one has a cord around
-the neck with a loop at the back for hanging on a wall.
-
-All the bodies were made from cottonwood roots. The tablets are of other
-woods whittled thin. It is said that the Kachina doll makers, and also
-the makers of the actual Kachina masks, pay the most attention as a rule
-to the masks. While the rest of the costumes may vary, the masks usually
-hold true to ancient traditional forms and designs.
-
-These dolls will also acquaint the beginner with the different methods
-of whittling, particularly the moccasins and arms. Colors also vary,
-depending on what colors are on hand. Today many of the dolls are
-painted with poster colors because they are easier to obtain than
-formerly.
-
-Most of these old dolls are slightly wider than they are thick, or shall
-we say, slightly flattened from front to back. The Hemis Kachina is
-shown here with a green background on the tablet, whereas recent books
-show it to be blue: otherwise, the traditional characteristics are
-preserved. Indians often confuse these two colors.
-
-    [Illustration: KEME]
-
-    [Illustration: CROW]
-
-    [Illustration: HOT’E]
-
-
-
-
-                           HOPI KACHINA DOLLS
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-The {Keme} doll shown is an old one brought to me by a trader. It was in
-rather poor condition. The paint was smeared and rubbed off in places.
-By carefully matching the original colors, I went over the entire doll.
-Note the feet. They are different from those of any of the five on the
-preceding page.
-
-The Crow Kachina is one that I selected for a lamp base. In the actual
-costume there are real crow wings attached to the mask, but these dolls
-are also made with wings of wood in several different styles.
-
-The Hot’e Kachina is often used for doll designs, and here, too, some
-dolls have small feathers attached to the mask, while others have wooden
-symbolic feathers. Some Hoté dolls have a miniature concha belt made of
-tin and a thin strip of black leather. The bow and rattle, of course,
-are slipped respectively into a notch and a hole in the hands.
-
-
-                                 STYLES
-
-    [Illustration: Saw out slot for legs]
-
-    [Illustration: This is the simplest way of whittling Kachina dolls
-    from a round piece of wood. Mark as shown at left and cut out piece
-    between the feet and legs.]
-
-    [Illustration: Slot for legs. Dotted lines show how block is marked
-    with pencil.]
-
-    [Illustration: Ears and nose are set into mortices.
-
-    This is an old Indian method of whittling dolls. Note that the upper
-    body is quite flat, and that the head and skirt are oval in
-    cross-section.]
-
-
-
-
-                                 STYLES
-
-
-    [Illustration: ]
-
-For the most part, Indians tend to make their doll bodies flat,
-especially figures ten inches or more in height. About the only sawing
-that is done is in cutting the space between the legs. For the beginner
-we have shown two types, the round and the flat. The different sections
-are marked as shown by dotted lines, and from there on in it is just a
-case of whittling. Arms, as shown in the lower doll, are whittled out,
-but occasionally they are whittled separately and tacked and glued on.
-All other appendages, such as nose, mouth, eyes, ears, and tablets are
-set into mortices cut to fit, and glued. While plastic cements dry
-quickly, it is better to use a glue that water color will adhere to.
-Regular hide glue or Elmer’s glue are fine. You will note that there are
-a great many ways of whittling feet. That seems to be a matter of
-choice.
-
-Figures should be sandpapered, preferably with medium-grit sandpaper.
-The finish can be made to look very much like the rough texture of
-cottonwood root.
-
-
-                          EAGLE KACHINA DOLLS
-               Most colors can be gotten from the cover.
-
-    [Illustration: Ruff of painted feathers.]
-
-    [Illustration: The tail is merely black-tipped eagle feathers like
-    the wings.]
-
-    [Illustration: Use a quick-drying glue rather than cement to fasten
-    parts together.]
-
-    [Illustration: The fox skin can be painted a reddish-buff. Sash is
-    made separate and glued on.]
-
-
-
-
-                           EAGLE KACHINA DOLL
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-Dolls of this type are not found in many of the western trading posts,
-and where you do find one it will have quite a price tacked to it.
-
-To make this one, which is about eight inches high, you’ll need for the
-body a soft wood block about 2½ by 3 by 8 inches in dimensions. By
-enlarging with squares, the sizes of the various parts can be
-ascertained. The wings should be of thin wood, preferably ³/₃₂ inch
-thick. If a quick-drying glue is used, such as Elmer’s Glue-all, no
-brads are required. I like to use glue rather than cement, because water
-color paints will stick to places where glue appears, but will not stick
-to cement.
-
-These dolls are sometimes glued to a base of some sort, and so make
-beautiful lamp bases. However, when used for that purpose, the doll is
-not drilled for wiring. Instead a piece of ⅜-inch brass tubing is used,
-bent as shown in the small sketch in the lower left-hand corner. Of
-course, a suitable shade should be made, one with a Pueblo Indian
-design.
-
-
-                            COSTUME JEWELRY
-
-    [Illustration: EAR ORNAMENTS]
-
-    [Illustration: LAPEL PIN
-    half round
-    Safety-pin set in plastic wood]
-
-    [Illustration: TIE CLASP
-    half round
-    Set in plastic wood]
-
-    [Illustration: ZIPPER PULL
-    half round]
-
-    [Illustration: NECKLACE
-    Dolls for necklace are made round.
-    Use wood or glass pony beads.]
-
-
-
-
-                            COSTUME JEWELRY
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-If you want to please a lady or a girl, make her some of these. They are
-colorful, to say the least, and decorative.
-
-The ear ornaments and the necklace are made of birch dowel rod, which is
-easy to whittle in miniature. Plastic screw clamps can be bought at
-almost any notion counter, and they are simply cemented onto the backs
-of the dolls. Do not make them more than 1 inch high. The necklaces,
-also rather unique, should be strung with wooden beads if possible to
-reduce the weight.
-
-For these pieces, several coats of clear nail polish are used, or clear
-lacquer. Unlike the larger figures, they should have a good glossy
-finish. Owing to the smallness of some of these figures, it is best to
-whittle each on the end of a longer piece of dowel rod, and then cut it
-off with a fine coping or jeweler’s saw (See drawing {above}). Then
-cement on the clamp in order to have something to hold to while painting
-it.
-
-
-                                 LAMPS
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-    [Illustration: All drilling should be done before starting to
-    whittle. The hole in the doll should be slightly smaller than the
-    nipple. To insert nipple soak the wood around the hole with shellac
-    and screw the nipple in. It will cut its own thread in the wood and
-    the shellac will keep it from turning.]
-
-    [Illustration: Wall bracket wire is concealed in groove.]
-
-    [Illustration: Drill lead holes for screws.
-    Use a little glue.
-    It is much simpler to insert the cord before fastening the doll to
-    the base.]
-
-
-
-
-                                 LAMPS
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-I enjoy making lamps, and have made many Kachina doll lamps, each
-different from the others—different dolls, different bases, and
-different shades. The dolls should be made out of at least 2-inch wood.
-A 2½-inch size is better, the over-all base and doll measuring about 9
-inches in length. This is a good proportion.
-
-In making bracket lamps, the doll can be set right on the bracket, as
-shown at lower left, and the brackets can be painted to harmonize with
-the doll, or stained or painted to match the woodwork of the house.
-
-I have also made totem pole lamps on this same principle, using
-Northwest Coast Indian designs on base and shade.
-
-In making the drum base shown here, either of two methods may be used.
-When I have a lot of time, I lace rawhide over the block and paint it.
-Usually, however, I simply paint the circular base to resemble an Indian
-tom-tom.
-
-
-                              LAMP SHADES
-
-Paper lamp shades are rather easy to make after you know how to go about
-it. Of course a wire frame is required. These can sometimes be bought,
-but as a rule a frame can be taken from a discarded shade of the proper
-size. Only the top and bottom rings are required for the round shades.
-
-    [Illustration: Design taken from pottery.
-
-    Use a round shade with a round base.
-
-    This is the conventional shape. If you can not get a pattern from
-    the former covering, a new one can be easily laid out as follows:]
-
-    [Illustration: PROCEDURE]
-
-  1. Lay out and cut shade.
-  2. Draw outline with waterproof drawing ink and color with transparent
-          water color.
-  3. Glue ends together (be sure shade fits the ring).
-  4. Punch and lace.
-  5. Apply clear plastic spray.
-
-    Remember:
-    Diameter × pi (3.1416) gives you the circumference. Allow ½ inch for
-    gluing.
-
-    [Illustration: Punch holes about ¼ inch from edge and lace with
-    plastic or leather lace.]
-
-    [Illustration: Frames for square shades should have wire uprights at
-    corners.
-
-    A square shade is the proper thing to use on a lamp with a square
-    base. This is usually covered with four separate pieces laced
-    together at the corners and the top and bottom.]
-
-                               PROCEDURE
-  1. Cut four sides.
-  2. Draw outlines in waterproof ink and color as above.
-  3. Punch holes ¼ inch from edges.
-  4. Holes on sides should match to make a neat lacing job.
-  5. Lace all four side pieces to the top.
-  6. Clamp lower edges and lace the corners.
-  7. Lace bottom edge.
-  8. Give entire shade several light coats of clear plastic spray.
-  Use a ⅛-inch paper punch.
-
-
-
-
-                              LAMP SHADES
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-Since shades, in order to harmonize with Kachina doll lamps, cannot be
-bought in stores, they will have to be made. There are three types of
-shade that will look good: the cylindrical shade; the conventional
-round, tapered shade; and the square shade. Round shades should be
-selected for round bases, and square shades for square bases.
-
-Use smooth three-ply drawing or bristol board, and transparent water
-colors are better than poster colors.
-
-Shades can be parchmentized by applying a mixture of one part turpentine
-and two parts mineral oil. Apply the mixture to both sides with a wad of
-absorbent cotton, and wipe off the surplus. This is done after the shade
-is painted and glued together, since glue will not adhere to any oiled
-surface.
-
-I prefer to leave the paper white, just giving it several light coats of
-clear plastic spray to prevent soiling.
-
-Designs for shades should be appropriate. Southwest Pueblo designs fit
-in well, such as thunder birds, rain birds, Kachina masks, etc. Your
-library will no doubt be able to furnish many ideas along these lines.
-
-If you object to lacing shades to the wire frame, you can use passe
-partout binding tape which is already gummed and only has to be
-moistened before applying.
-
-
-                           CERAMIC ASH TRAYS
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-
-
-
-                           CERAMIC ASH TRAYS
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-This is one item that is becoming quite popular through the West and
-there seems to be no limit in what can be done along these lines. You
-will probably get a lot of ideas when traveling, but here are a couple
-that are slightly “different.”
-
-The top tray can be made of Mexican modeling clay or some other clay
-that does not require firing. In that case the top and inside are not
-decorated, and the outside decoration is put on with poster color and
-covered with several coats of plastic or clear lacquer to give it a
-kiln-dried ceramic appearance.
-
-A cigarette box can also be made in the shape of a Kachina mask as a
-companion piece to the tray. While the lower tray has the conventional
-general shape, it could also be made with vertical sides.
-
-A few years ago it was rather difficult to obtain a good turquoise blue,
-but it is now on the market.
-
-
-                            TOBACCO CANISTER
-
-    [Illustration: A one-pound coffee can is just right.
-
-    For better painting, scrape off all printed matter and wipe from can
-    before starting other work.
-
-    Can be painted with enamels, colored lacquer, or dope, but do not
-    try to use both on one job. They do not mix.]
-
-    [Illustration: Fasten together with glue and one screw.
-
-    The grooves in the cover and the base can be cut on a lathe, using a
-    face plate.
-
-    Fasten the cover to plywood with tacks. Put some thick shellac in
-    the groove.
-
-    “Nose” and “ears” should fit snug to can. Punch holes in tin and put
-    a coat of thick shellac on the wood when nailing ears to can.
-
-    Fasten base by pulling shellac in groove and fasten with small
-    brads.
-
-    Use a nail set and drive brads into base.]
-
-
-
-
-                            TOBACCO CANISTER
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-This canister speaks for itself. There is this much to be said for it:
-the lady of the house isn’t so apt to hide it when she is preparing for
-guests.
-
-As with any Kachina project, there is practically no limit to what can
-be done in regard to design. You can take your pick of masks, and can
-select the appendages that you like best.
-
-Coffee cans have just about the proper shape and proportions for these
-canisters, and the covers fit tightly. Be sure to smooth down the edges
-of the can, using fine emery or other abrasive cloth.
-
-The inside of the can should be given a coat of clear lacquer to prevent
-rust from forming, since many brands of tobacco are slightly damp.
-
-
-                           NECKERCHIEF SLIDES
-
-    [Illustration: Mask slides are easily made. Bore a ¾-inch hole for
-    the neckerchief first and the proceed as with any other mask.]
-
-    [Illustration: For a full figure slide, use only a half round piece
-    of wood, and glue a loop of leather to the back of it.]
-
-    [Illustration: ALUMINUM
-
-    This aluminum slide can be made without welding. The snout is
-    riveted in before bending the mask.]
-
-    [Illustration: SILVER
-
-    Beautiful slides can be made of sterling silver, and since it is
-    easily soldered, more can be added than with other materials. The
-    eyes are inset with turquoise forced into the bezel and then ground
-    off flush.]
-
-    [Illustration: When the tablette is forced down over the mask it
-    holds everything securely.]
-
-
-
-
-                           NECKERCHIEF SLIDES
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-Slides are always in demand in scouting, and we show here four different
-methods of making them.
-
-Those made of wood are very colorful. In making the full figure, only
-the vertical, front half of the form is used, and a ring of any material
-may be attached to the back.
-
-Metal slides require a little more work. Aluminum is a good metal for
-youngsters. This requires no welding, but the tablet is fastened to the
-mask with a tight drive fit.
-
-Silver, of course, is for the finished craftsman, and anyone familiar
-with silver soldering methods can easily produce one like that shown at
-the bottom of the page. If turquoise is used, so much the better.
-
-These metal slides are eye-catchers, since they are not to be found in
-stores.
-
-    [Illustration: CEILING LIGHT FIXTURES]
-
-    [Illustration: BOOK ENDS
-
-    It is necessary to add a metal base such as this on light-weight
-    bookends. Be sure there are no sharp edges on it that might scratch
-    the furniture.]
-
-
-
-
-                         CEILING LIGHT FIXTURE
-
-
-Probably your thought on this fixture will be, “You can’t put that in a
-living room.” Not in any or every living room, but I know a beautiful
-large living room where a similar one is hung and it certainly sets off
-the Navaho rugs and Indian baskets and pottery in that room. This
-fixture would be ideal in a den or recreation room.
-
-A cluster of four light bulbs should light it, or a socket can be set on
-each of the four sides. Frosted, or better still, an opal glass should
-be used. The side pieces are taken from the woven designs on Hopi
-women’s dresses, predominantly black.
-
-
-
-
-                               BOOK ENDS
-
-
-These can also be made without the back or upright; that is, the doll
-would be set flush with the back edge of the base. But the metal base
-must be added unless the wooden base is well weighted with lead. I have
-made them that way, but prefer the thin metal piece instead.
-Twenty-gauge brass works out nicely. To fasten it, use small flat-head
-screws, countersunk, and give the metal a coat of thin shellac where it
-fits into the wood. Wood and metal must be flush along the bottom.
-
-    [Illustration: KACHINA DOLL POSTS]
-
-
-
-
-                           KACHINA DOLL POSTS
-
-
-    [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-These attractive gate posts are rather easy to make. I used sections of
-old electric-line or telephone poles. They are of cedar and will
-withstand the weather. After cleaning the surface of the post with a
-drawknife, it is worked with a small hand ax, chisel, and mallet. Note
-the 2-foot or 3-foot projection left on the bottom to set it.
-
-Paint with ordinary house paint and, if you wish, finish with a coat of
-clear varnish to protect the paint. I used water colors and finished
-with two coats of clear spar varnish. But house paints are easier to
-obtain.
-
-The hearth posts may be flattened somewhat at the back to fit tightly
-against the fireplace. Telephone poles make the best material as they
-are well seasoned. The mantel shelf should be at least 2 inches thick.
-Three inches would be better, and could be effected by gluing a 3-inch
-piece of ⅞-inch lumber around the front and two ends to give it the
-appearance of a solid 3-inch plank.
-
-
-
-
-                              BIBLIOGRAPHY
-
-
-  Arizona Highways Magazine.
-    Various issues.
-
-  Cody, Bertha P.
-    1939. Kachina Dolls. The Masterkey, Vol. 13. Los Angeles.
-
-  Colton, Harold S.
-    1949. Hopi Kachina Dolls. Univ. of New Mexico Press. Albuquerque.
-
-  Dockstader, Frederick J.
-    1954. The Kachina and the White Man. Cranbrook Bulletin 35.
-          Bloomfield Hills, Mich.
-
-  Earl, Edwin.
-    1938. Hopi Kachina. Waverly Press. Baltimore.
-
-  Fewkes, J. W.
-    1903. Hopi Kachina. Bur. of Amer. Ethnology, Ann. Rept. 21.
-          Washington, D. C.
-
-  Mera, H. P.
-    1937. Rainbird. Lab. of Anthropology Memoir, Vol. 2. Santa Fe.
-
-  Roediger, Virginia.
-    1941. Ceremonial Costumes of the Pueblo Indians. Univ. of Calif.
-          Press. Berkeley.
-
-  Underhill, Ruth.
-    1944. Pueblo Crafts. U. S. Indian Service, Phoenix Indian School.
-          Phoenix, Ariz.
-
-
-
-
-                          Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Silently corrected a few typos.
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—Adjusted some references to images to fit a reflowable eBook {changes
-  are included in brackets}.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Kachina Dolls, by Walter Bernard Hunt
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Kachina Dolls
-       Milwaukee Public Museum Popular Science Handbook Series #7, Sept. 1957
-
-Author: Walter Bernard Hunt
-
-Release Date: May 30, 2020 [EBook #62286]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KACHINA DOLLS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-
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-
-
-</pre>
-
-<div id="cover" class="img">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Kachina Dolls" width="500" height="744" />
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig1">
-<img src="images/p01.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="431" />
-<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">KACHINA DOLLS</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="box">
-<h1><span class="ss">KACHINA DOLLS</span></h1>
-<p class="jr1"><span class="ss"><span class="small">BY</span></span>
-<br /><span class="ss"><span class="large">W. BEN HUNT</span></span></p>
-<p class="tb"><span class="ss">MILWAUKEE PUBLIC MUSEUM</span></p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">POPULAR SCIENCE HANDBOOK SERIES NO. 7</span> <span class="hst"><span class="ss">SEPTEMBER 1957</span></span></p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss"><span class="small">PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES</span></span>
-<br /><span class="smallest"><span class="ssn">&copy;1953 MILWAUKEE PUBLIC MUSEUM</span></span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div>
-<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">PREFACE</span></h2>
-<p class="center"><span class="ssn">by ROBERT E. RITZENTHALER
-<br /><span class="smaller">Curator of Anthropology</span></span></p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="431" height="300" />
-</div>
-<p>On the sentinel-like mesas in the semi-desert land of northeastern Arizona
-dwell some 3,500 of one of our most colorful Indian tribes of today,
-the Hopi. Living in their traditional adobe, multi-storied &ldquo;apartment
-houses,&rdquo; called &ldquo;Pueblos,&rdquo; they practice many of their old ways and customs,
-and remain one of the tribes least affected by the white man. Agriculturalists
-they were and agriculturalists they are, filling the fields at the base of the
-mesas, raising corn, beans, and squash, but above all, corn. In this area where
-land is good, but moisture is all-important, the Hopi have developed a religion
-much concerned with prayers and ceremonies to bring rain and good
-crops. During the Snake Dance, for example, snakes are held in the mouths
-of the dancers and then released into the desert as messengers to the gods
-to inform them that the Hopi need rain.</p>
-<p>Less widely known to the world than the Snake Dance, but very important
-to the Hopi as a spiritual means of petitioning for rain, good weather, bountiful
-crops, and other blessings, is the Kachina cult. The Hopi believe that the
-Kachinas are a band of supernatural beings who live in the nearby mountains
-and pay visits to the villages at intervals during the first half of each year.
-At these times the men don the masks and costumes representing particular
-Kachinas, and perform dances and ceremonies in their honor. By wearing
-these costumes the men not only physically impersonate the Kachinas, but
-also assume their spirits. The dances and ceremonies take place both in the
-underground chambers, called kivas, where only men are allowed, and out on
-the village plazas where all may watch. During the latter, the dancers follow
-the leader in single file to the plaza where they line up facing east. The leader,
-at the center, begins the singing to the rhythm of his rattle; then the others
-join in, and the dancing begins. For the next song the dancers face north,
-then west, after which they distribute gifts, usually a bow and arrow for a
-<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span>
-boy and a Kachina doll for a girl. They then retire to a secluded area to
-unmask, relax, and prepare for the next set of songs and dances.</p>
-<p>In some of the dances 30 or 40 men will be dressed alike; in others a variety
-of Kachinas participate. Besides the serious dances there are humorous
-ones put on by clowns, or &ldquo;mudheads&rdquo; as they are popularly called. The mudheads
-are distinguished by their distinctive, mud-colored masks and provoke
-much laughter with their impromptu pranks and burlesquing of both Indian
-and white man, and even of the Kachina dances.</p>
-<p>While the term &ldquo;Kachina&rdquo; refers to the mythological beings, and to the
-masked dancers who impersonate them, it is also used to refer to the dolls,
-which are miniature but accurate reproductions of them. Kachina dolls are
-made by the men to be given to the girls during the Kachina ceremonies.
-Children eagerly await the Giver Kachina, the counterpart of our Santa
-Claus, who wears a blue mask and carries a bundle of gifts on his back. His
-arrival is announced by a herald stationed on a roof top. He passes among
-the crowd distributing gifts to the children, such as candy, bows and arrows,
-and the especially desired Kachina dolls. Each girl receives at least one, and
-some may receive as many as a half dozen. They are played with as dolls,
-often being carried about in miniature cradles. They also, however, serve a
-useful purpose in acquainting the Hopi children with the names, kinds, details
-of costumes, and religious lore of the Kachinas. In a very real sense, then,
-they are the educational toys of the Hopi. The dolls are never worshipped
-and are not to be considered idols, but rather serve as constant reminders
-of the Kachinas, especially during the summer and fall when the Kachinas
-have returned to their mountain home. They are handled and carried about
-the village by the girls, but for the most part they will be seen hanging from
-the walls or rafters of the pueblo rooms.</p>
-<p>The dolls described in this booklet are but a few of the many types. Not
-even the Hopi can tell you how many different Kachinas there are, but their
-number has been estimated at 250. Only about 200 are in current use, and
-these change with the years as new ones are added, and others disappear
-from usage.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div>
-<h2 id="c2"><span class="small">INTRODUCTION</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="188" height="401" />
-</div>
-<p>Our Southwest is a veritable treasure chest of
-interesting things made by clever Indian craftsmen.
-Here and there, at Indian trading posts or Indian roadside
-stands along the way, among the rugs, sashes, pottery,
-and silver and turquoise jewelry, you will find
-Kachina dolls. Not too many. Up until a few years ago
-they were quite scarce in the trading posts, but could be
-bought at the various Hopi pueblos, where the best ones
-are made. While they were originally made for their
-little girls, as stated in the preface, they produced even
-more of them when it was discovered that tourists prized
-them. And like everything else, someone saw a chance
-to earn a dollar and started to manufacture them. Some
-years ago the Japanese even went so far as to make them
-of papier-mache. Many of them are machined and given a quick coat of paint.
-But you can still buy good Kachina dolls both on the mesas and at trading
-posts.</p>
-<p>All in all the Hopi-made dolls are good, and usually when you find one a
-bit worn, with a cord around its neck, you can figure that at one time it
-adorned a pueblo wall. The Hopi Kachina makers take great pride in their
-work. Their dolls are made out of cottonwood roots, which gives them that
-sort of rough texture that is pleasing to the eye. Some of the very old dolls
-have cloth and buckskin clothing to make them more realistic, but for the
-most part they are made entirely of wood with the exception of feathers and
-fluffs, as shown in the following pages.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div>
-<p>As mentioned before, there are about 250 different Kachinas, but the Hopi
-do not make that many different dolls. There are certain Kachinas that lend
-themselves better to carved dolls, and it is with these that we will deal.</p>
-<p>Years ago, when starting out boys and girls in whittling, I made it a practice
-to give them Kachina dolls to whittle, for various reasons. It acquainted
-them with the feel of wood and the meaning of grain. It taught them how to
-sharpen a knife, and how to use it. And best of all, they whittled figures
-without having to worry about human faces, which are the bugaboo of all
-whittling novices, and a lot of others, too.</p>
-<p>This booklet will mainly show how Kachina dolls are whittled and painted,
-and to what use they can be put. This is not an ethnological thesis, but is
-written for the craft-minded who like to whittle, and who like Kachina dolls.
-I do not imagine that anyone will make all of the objects listed and described,
-but there may be one or more of them that you will enjoy making.</p>
-<p>The first thing you will need is a piece of wood. Since it would be rather
-difficult to obtain cottonwood roots, our next best bet is a piece of straight-grained
-soft wood. I have used sections of green, knot-free basswood, willow,
-and poplar saplings or branches with good results. A piece of wood about
-1&frac12; inches in diameter is of a proper size to start out with. The green wood
-whittles easily and, due to the short lengths and deep cuts, it is not likely to
-check. And of course it is already round.</p>
-<p>Also, white pine, sugar pine, and basswood can usually be bought at a
-lumber yard or millwork shop. It should be cut in rectangular sections and
-then rounded.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div>
-<p>Then, of course, you will need a knife that holds an edge. A good quality
-of pocket knife is best, and all the whittling I have ever done has been with a
-small blade, from 1&frac14; to 1&frac12; inches long. As the knife comes from the store
-it is not sharp enough for whittling. So get a small abrasive stone, and a piece
-of leather to strop it on, and sharpen it until you cannot see the edge; as
-long as you can see a &ldquo;white&rdquo; line or spot on the edge, your knife is not
-sharp. Thereafter, keep it sharp at all times.</p>
-<p>You will also need sandpaper to sand down the knife cuts in the wood.</p>
-<p>Now for the part that worries most beginners: painting the dolls. If you
-have a fairly steady hand, and use a good brush, this should not be too much
-of a problem. I have often said that it a person can pare a potato without
-wasting it, and can write fairly well, he or she can make a Kachina doll.</p>
-<p>We use water colors for painting. That is what the Hopi use, and water
-colors are not so messy. While any good brand of water colors will do the
-trick, you will have the best success with poster or show-card colors. They
-are opaque and cover better than transparent water colors. Although many
-of the old Kachina makers use brushes made out of yucca leaf stems, chewed
-and trimmed to the sizes required, you can pick up a couple or three small
-brushes that will do a better job. Sable-hair brushes are best, but also more
-expensive.</p>
-<p>Painting the dolls is not as difficult as one may think. Remember&mdash;you
-don&rsquo;t have to paint faces, and the masks are all more or less abstract or symbolic
-in design. And furthermore you don&rsquo;t have to do any shading or blending.
-It is all flat work.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div>
-<p>There are two methods of painting. Most of the old-time Kachina makers
-give the entire doll a coat of white paint first, and the rest is painted over
-that. But usually, with good poster colors to work with, it is easier to lay out
-and paint each color directly on the bare wood. The colors dry rather rapidly
-and, if used rather thick (not too much water), they will not be apt to run or
-bleed where colors overlap. So don&rsquo;t let the painting stop you. I have seen
-cub scouts make some very nice looking dolls.</p>
-<p>The Indian does nothing to preserve the painted surface and the water
-colors are apt to smudge and wear off. On the other hand, a glossy surface
-on a doll looks awful, and is not in character. So we suggest that you use a
-light spray coat or two of Krylon, or Spray-fix, or any other crystal-clear
-spray, such as come in bomb cans. Krylon is a crystal-clear plastic spray, and
-Spray-fix is a fixative (in a bomb can) such as is used by artists to prevent
-smudging of pencil, charcoal, or pastel drawings. But whatever you use to
-preserve the water color, it should be &ldquo;water white&rdquo; and should not be sprayed
-on to impart a shiny surface, except where stated otherwise in the following
-pages.</p>
-<p>Naturally, questions arise as to where one can get ideas for more difficult
-kinds of Kachina dolls, or Kachina costumes. Here are a couple of good
-books which contain such information: Hopi Kachinas, by Edward Kemrard;
-Ceremonial Costumes of the Pueblo Indians, by Virginia Roediger.</p>
-<p>Moreover, Kachina dolls are shown from time to time in Arizona Highways
-Magazine and there are many crayon drawings of Kachinas, made by a
-Hopi Indian, in the 1899-1900 Annual Report of the Bureau of American
-Ethnology.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig2">
-<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="" width="281" height="412" />
-<p class="pcap">PALAH&rsquo;IKO MANA</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig3">
-<img src="images/p04d.jpg" alt="" width="149" height="483" />
-<p class="pcap">HEMIS</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p04e.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="165" height="369" />
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig4">
-<img src="images/p04f.jpg" alt="" width="178" height="251" />
-<p class="pcap">PAK IOKWICK</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig5">
-<img src="images/p04g.jpg" alt="" width="161" height="278" />
-<p class="pcap">MUDHEAD</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div>
-<h2 id="c3"><span class="small">HOPI KACHINA DOLLS</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p04h.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="350" height="269" />
-</div>
-<p>The dolls shown {above}
-were carefully drawn from
-old specimens in the collection in
-the Milwaukee Public Museum.
-Each one has a cord around the
-neck with a loop at the back for
-hanging on a wall.</p>
-<p>All the bodies were made from cottonwood roots.
-The tablets are of other woods whittled thin. It is
-said that the Kachina doll makers, and also the
-makers of the actual Kachina masks, pay the most
-attention as a rule to the masks. While the rest of
-the costumes may vary, the masks usually hold true
-to ancient traditional forms and designs.</p>
-<p>These dolls will also acquaint the beginner with
-the different methods of whittling, particularly the
-moccasins and arms. Colors also vary, depending
-on what colors are on hand. Today many of the
-dolls are painted with poster colors because they
-are easier to obtain than formerly.</p>
-<p>Most of these old dolls are slightly wider than
-they are thick, or shall we say, slightly flattened
-from front to back. The Hemis Kachina is shown
-here with a green background on the tablet, whereas
-recent books show it to be blue: otherwise, the
-traditional characteristics are preserved. Indians
-often confuse these two colors.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig6">
-<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="211" height="462" />
-<p class="pcap">KEME</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig7">
-<img src="images/p05a.jpg" alt="" width="506" height="471" />
-<p class="pcap">CROW</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig8">
-<img src="images/p05g.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="499" />
-<p class="pcap">HOT&rsquo;E</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div>
-<h2 id="c4"><span class="small">HOPI KACHINA DOLLS</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p05h.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="350" height="278" />
-</div>
-<p>The {Keme} doll shown is an old one brought to
-me by a trader. It was in rather poor condition. The paint was
-smeared and rubbed off in
-places. By carefully matching the original colors,
-I went over the entire doll. Note the feet. They are
-different from those of any of the five on the
-preceding page.</p>
-<p>The Crow Kachina is one that I
-selected for a lamp base. In the actual costume
-there are real crow wings attached to the mask,
-but these dolls are also made with wings of wood
-in several different styles.</p>
-<p>The Hot&rsquo;e Kachina is often used for doll designs,
-and here, too, some dolls have small feathers attached
-to the mask, while others have wooden symbolic
-feathers. Some Hot&eacute; dolls have a miniature
-concha belt made of tin and a thin strip of black
-leather. The bow and rattle, of course, are slipped
-respectively into a notch and a hole in the hands.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div>
-<h3 id="c5">STYLES</h3>
-<div class="img" id="fig9">
-<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width="142" height="337" />
-<p class="pcap">Saw out slot
-for legs</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig10">
-<img src="images/p06a.jpg" alt="" width="346" height="308" />
-<p class="pcap">This is the simplest way of whittling Kachina dolls from a round
-piece of wood. Mark as shown at left and cut out piece between
-the feet and legs.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig11">
-<img src="images/p06e.jpg" alt="" width="238" height="421" />
-<p class="pcap">Slot for legs. Dotted lines show
-how block is marked with pencil.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig12">
-<img src="images/p06f.jpg" alt="" width="327" height="363" />
-<p class="pcap">Ears and nose are set into mortices.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">This is an old Indian method of whittling dolls. Note that the
-upper body is quite flat, and that the head and skirt are oval
-in cross-section.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div>
-<h2 id="c6"><span class="small">STYLES</span></h2>
-<div class="img" id="fig13">
-<img src="images/p06g.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="482" />
-<p class="pcap"></p>
-</div>
-<p>For the most part, Indians
-tend to make their doll bodies
-flat, especially figures ten
-inches or more in height. About
-the only sawing that is done is
-in cutting the space between
-the legs. For the beginner we
-have shown two types, the
-round and the flat. The different
-sections are marked as shown by dotted lines,
-and from there on in it is just a case of whittling.
-Arms, as shown in the lower doll, are whittled out,
-but occasionally they are whittled separately and
-tacked and glued on. All other appendages, such
-as nose, mouth, eyes, ears, and tablets are set into
-mortices cut to fit, and glued. While plastic cements
-dry quickly, it is better to use a glue that water
-color will adhere to. Regular hide glue or Elmer&rsquo;s
-glue are fine. You will note that there are a great
-many ways of whittling feet. That seems to be a
-matter of choice.</p>
-<p>Figures should be sandpapered, preferably with
-medium-grit sandpaper. The finish can be made to
-look very much like the rough texture of cottonwood
-root.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div>
-<h3 id="c7">EAGLE KACHINA DOLLS
-<br /><span class="small"><span class="ssn">Most colors can be gotten from the cover.</span></span></h3>
-<div class="img" id="fig14">
-<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="447" height="649" />
-<p class="pcap">Ruff of painted feathers.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig15">
-<img src="images/p07e.jpg" alt="" width="215" height="501" />
-<p class="pcap">The tail is merely black-tipped eagle feathers
-like the wings.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig16">
-<img src="images/p07f.jpg" alt="" width="499" height="466" />
-<p class="pcap">Use a quick-drying glue rather than cement
-to fasten parts together.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig17">
-<img src="images/p07g.jpg" alt="" width="211" height="356" />
-<p class="pcap">The fox skin can be
-painted a reddish-buff.
-Sash is made separate
-and glued on.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div>
-<h2 id="c8"><span class="small">EAGLE KACHINA DOLL</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p07h.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="350" height="325" />
-</div>
-<p>Dolls of this type are not
-found in many of the western
-trading posts, and where
-you do find one it will have
-quite a price tacked to it.</p>
-<p>To make this one, which is
-about eight inches high, you&rsquo;ll need for the body
-a soft wood block about 2&frac12; by 3 by 8 inches in
-dimensions. By enlarging with squares, the sizes of
-the various parts can be ascertained. The wings
-should be of thin wood, preferably &sup3;/&#8323;&#8322; inch thick.
-If a quick-drying glue is used, such as Elmer&rsquo;s Glue-all,
-no brads are required. I like to use glue rather
-than cement, because water color paints will stick
-to places where glue appears, but will not stick to
-cement.</p>
-<p>These dolls are sometimes glued to a base of
-some sort, and so make beautiful lamp bases. However,
-when used for that purpose, the doll is not
-drilled for wiring. Instead a piece of &#8540;-inch brass
-tubing is used, bent as shown in the small sketch
-in the lower left-hand corner. Of course, a suitable
-shade should be made, one with a Pueblo Indian
-design.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div>
-<h3 id="c9">COSTUME JEWELRY</h3>
-<div class="img" id="fig18">
-<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="217" />
-<p class="pcap">EAR ORNAMENTS</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig19">
-<img src="images/p08d.jpg" alt="" width="239" height="399" />
-<p class="pcap">LAPEL PIN
-<br />half round
-<br />Safety-pin set in plastic wood</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig20">
-<img src="images/p08e.jpg" alt="" width="247" height="299" />
-<p class="pcap">TIE CLASP
-<br />half round
-<br />Set in plastic wood</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig21">
-<img src="images/p08f.jpg" alt="" width="265" height="400" />
-<p class="pcap">ZIPPER PULL
-<br />half round</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig22">
-<img src="images/p08g.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="328" />
-<p class="pcap">NECKLACE
-<br />Dolls for necklace are made round.
-<br />Use wood or glass pony beads.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div>
-<h2 id="c10"><span class="small">COSTUME JEWELRY</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p08h.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="350" height="201" />
-</div>
-<p>If you want to please a lady
-or a girl, make her some of
-these. They are colorful, to say the least, and
-decorative.</p>
-<p>The ear ornaments and the necklace are made of
-birch dowel rod, which is easy to whittle in miniature.
-Plastic screw clamps can be bought at almost
-any notion counter, and they are simply cemented
-onto the backs of the dolls. Do not make them
-more than 1 inch high. The necklaces, also rather
-unique, should be strung with wooden beads if
-possible to reduce the weight.</p>
-<p>For these pieces, several coats of clear nail polish
-are used, or clear lacquer. Unlike the larger figures,
-they should have a good glossy finish. Owing to
-the smallness of some of these figures, it is best to
-whittle each on the end of a longer piece of dowel
-rod, and then cut it off with a fine coping or jeweler&rsquo;s
-saw (See drawing {above}). Then cement
-on the clamp in order to have something to hold
-to while painting it.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
-<h3 id="c11">LAMPS</h3>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="335" height="801" />
-</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p09a.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="300" height="317" />
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig23">
-<img src="images/p09d.jpg" alt="" width="202" height="253" />
-<p class="pcap">All drilling should be done before starting to whittle. The hole
-in the doll should be slightly smaller than the nipple. To insert
-nipple soak the wood around the hole with shellac and screw
-the nipple in. It will cut its own thread in the wood and the
-shellac will keep it from turning.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig24">
-<img src="images/p09f.jpg" alt="" width="317" height="234" />
-<p class="pcap">Wall bracket wire is
-concealed in groove.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig25">
-<img src="images/p09f2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="356" />
-<p class="pcap">Drill lead holes for screws.
-<br />Use a little glue.
-<br />It is much simpler to insert the cord before fastening the
-doll to the base.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div>
-<h2 id="c12"><span class="small">LAMPS</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p09g.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="300" height="305" />
-</div>
-<p>I enjoy making lamps, and
-have made many Kachina
-doll lamps, each different
-from the others&mdash;different dolls, different bases,
-and different shades. The dolls should be made out
-of at least 2-inch wood. A 2&frac12;-inch size is better,
-the over-all base and doll measuring about 9 inches
-in length. This is a good proportion.</p>
-<p>In making bracket lamps, the doll can be set
-right on the bracket, as shown at lower left, and
-the brackets can be painted to harmonize with the
-doll, or stained or painted to match the woodwork
-of the house.</p>
-<p>I have also made totem pole lamps on this same
-principle, using Northwest Coast Indian designs on
-base and shade.</p>
-<p>In making the drum base shown here, either of
-two methods may be used. When I have a lot of
-time, I lace rawhide over the block and paint it.
-Usually, however, I simply paint the circular base
-to resemble an Indian tom-tom.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div>
-<h3 id="c13">LAMP SHADES</h3>
-<p>Paper lamp shades are rather easy to make after you know how to go about it. Of
-course a wire frame is required. These can sometimes be bought, but as a rule a frame
-can be taken from a discarded shade of the proper size. Only the top and bottom
-rings are required for the round shades.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig26">
-<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="326" />
-<p class="pcap">Design taken from pottery.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Use a round shade with a round base.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">This is the conventional shape. If you can not get a pattern from
-the former covering, a new one can be easily laid out as follows:</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig27">
-<img src="images/p10a.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="304" />
-<p class="pcap">PROCEDURE</p>
-</div>
-<dl class="undent pcap"><dt>1. Lay out and cut shade.</dt>
-<dt>2. Draw outline with waterproof drawing ink and color with transparent water color.</dt>
-<dt>3. Glue ends together (be sure shade fits the ring).</dt>
-<dt>4. Punch and lace.</dt>
-<dt>5. Apply clear plastic spray.</dt></dl>
-<p class="pcapc">Remember:
-<br />Diameter &times; pi (3.1416) gives
-you the circumference. Allow
-&frac12; inch for gluing.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig28">
-<img src="images/p10f.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="468" />
-<p class="pcap">Punch holes about &frac14; inch from edge and lace
-with plastic or leather lace.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig29">
-<img src="images/p10g.jpg" alt="" width="391" height="435" />
-<p class="pcap">Frames for square shades should have wire
-uprights at corners.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">A square shade is the proper thing to use on
-a lamp with a square base. This is usually
-covered with four separate pieces laced together
-at the corners and the top and bottom.</p>
-</div>
-<dl class="undent pcap"><dt class="center">PROCEDURE</dt>
-<dt>1. Cut four sides.</dt>
-<dt>2. Draw outlines in waterproof ink and color as above.</dt>
-<dt>3. Punch holes &frac14; inch from edges.</dt>
-<dt>4. Holes on sides should match to make a neat lacing job.</dt>
-<dt>5. Lace all four side pieces to the top.</dt>
-<dt>6. Clamp lower edges and lace the corners.</dt>
-<dt>7. Lace bottom edge.</dt>
-<dt>8. Give entire shade several light coats of clear plastic spray.</dt>
-<dt>Use a &#8539;-inch paper punch.</dt></dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div>
-<h2 id="c14"><span class="small">LAMP SHADES</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p10h.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="300" height="175" />
-</div>
-<p>Since shades, in order to
-harmonize with Kachina doll
-lamps, cannot be bought in
-stores, they will have to be
-made. There are three types
-of shade that will look good: the cylindrical shade;
-the conventional round, tapered shade; and the
-square shade. Round shades should be selected for
-round bases, and square shades for square bases.</p>
-<p>Use smooth three-ply drawing or bristol board,
-and transparent water colors are better than poster
-colors.</p>
-<p>Shades can be parchmentized by applying a mixture
-of one part turpentine and two parts mineral
-oil. Apply the mixture to both sides with a wad of
-absorbent cotton, and wipe off the surplus. This is
-done after the shade is painted and glued together,
-since glue will not adhere to any oiled surface.</p>
-<p>I prefer to leave the paper white, just giving it
-several light coats of clear plastic spray to prevent
-soiling.</p>
-<p>Designs for shades should be appropriate. Southwest
-Pueblo designs fit in well, such as thunder
-birds, rain birds, Kachina masks, etc. Your library
-will no doubt be able to furnish many ideas along
-these lines.</p>
-<p>If you object to lacing shades to the wire frame,
-you can use passe partout binding tape which is
-already gummed and only has to be moistened
-before applying.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
-<h3 id="c15">CERAMIC ASH TRAYS</h3>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="500" height="792" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div>
-<h2 id="c16"><span class="small">CERAMIC ASH TRAYS</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p11a.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="300" height="232" />
-</div>
-<p>This is one item that is becoming quite popular
-through the West and there seems to be no limit
-in what can be done along these lines. You will
-probably get a lot of ideas when traveling, but
-here are a couple that are slightly &ldquo;different.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The top tray can be made of Mexican modeling
-clay or some other clay that does not require firing.
-In that case the top and inside are not decorated,
-and the outside decoration is put on with poster
-color and covered with several coats of plastic or
-clear lacquer to give it a kiln-dried ceramic appearance.</p>
-<p>A cigarette box can also be made in the shape
-of a Kachina mask as a companion piece to the
-tray. While the lower tray has the conventional general
-shape, it could also be made with vertical sides.</p>
-<p>A few years ago it was rather difficult to obtain
-a good turquoise blue, but it is now on the market.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div>
-<h3 id="c17">TOBACCO CANISTER</h3>
-<div class="img" id="fig30">
-<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="237" />
-<p class="pcap">A one-pound coffee can is just right.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">For better painting, scrape off all printed matter
-and wipe from can before starting other work.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Can be painted with enamels, colored lacquer, or
-dope, but do not try to use both on one job. They
-do not mix.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig31">
-<img src="images/p12a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="696" />
-<p class="pcap">Fasten together with
-glue and one screw.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">The grooves in the cover and
-the base can be cut on a
-lathe, using a face plate.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Fasten the cover to plywood
-with tacks. Put some thick
-shellac in the groove.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">&ldquo;Nose&rdquo; and &ldquo;ears&rdquo;
-should fit snug to can.
-Punch holes in tin and
-put a coat of thick
-shellac on the wood
-when nailing ears to
-can.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Fasten base by pulling
-shellac in groove and
-fasten with small brads.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Use a nail set and drive
-brads into base.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div>
-<h2 id="c18"><span class="small">TOBACCO CANISTER</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p12g.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="250" height="281" />
-</div>
-<p>This canister speaks for itself. There is this much
-to be said for it: the lady of the house isn&rsquo;t so apt
-to hide it when she is preparing for guests.</p>
-<p>As with any Kachina project, there is practically
-no limit to what can be done in regard to design.
-You can take your pick of masks, and can select
-the appendages that you like best.</p>
-<p>Coffee cans have just about the proper shape
-and proportions for these canisters, and the covers
-fit tightly. Be sure to smooth down the edges of
-the can, using fine emery or other abrasive cloth.</p>
-<p>The inside of the can should be given a coat of
-clear lacquer to prevent rust from forming, since
-many brands of tobacco are slightly damp.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div>
-<h3 id="c19">NECKERCHIEF SLIDES</h3>
-<div class="img" id="fig32">
-<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="" width="312" height="202" />
-<p class="pcap">Mask slides are easily made. Bore a &frac34;-inch hole
-for the neckerchief first and the proceed as
-with any other mask.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig33">
-<img src="images/p13a.jpg" alt="" width="216" height="375" />
-<p class="pcap">For a full figure slide, use only a half round piece
-of wood, and glue a loop of leather to the back
-of it.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig34">
-<img src="images/p13d.jpg" alt="" width="349" height="433" />
-<p class="pcap">ALUMINUM</p>
-<p class="pcapc">This aluminum slide can be made without welding. The snout is
-riveted in before bending the mask.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig35">
-<img src="images/p13f.jpg" alt="" width="322" height="415" />
-<p class="pcap">SILVER</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Beautiful slides can be made of sterling
-silver, and since it is easily soldered,
-more can be added than with other materials.
-The eyes are inset with turquoise
-forced into the bezel and then ground
-off flush.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig36">
-<img src="images/p13g.jpg" alt="" width="499" height="279" />
-<p class="pcap">When the tablette is forced down over
-the mask it holds everything securely.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div>
-<h2 id="c20"><span class="small">NECKERCHIEF SLIDES</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p13h.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="400" height="436" />
-</div>
-<p>Slides are always in demand in scouting, and we
-show here four different methods of making them.</p>
-<p>Those made of wood are very colorful. In making
-the full figure, only the vertical, front half of the
-form is used, and a ring of any material may be
-attached to the back.</p>
-<p>Metal slides require a little more work. Aluminum
-is a good metal for youngsters. This requires no
-welding, but the tablet is fastened to the mask
-with a tight drive fit.</p>
-<p>Silver, of course, is for the finished craftsman,
-and anyone familiar with silver soldering methods
-can easily produce one like that shown at the bottom
-of the page. If turquoise is used, so much the
-better.</p>
-<p>These metal slides are eye-catchers, since they
-are not to be found in stores.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig37">
-<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="" width="468" height="308" />
-<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">CEILING LIGHT FIXTURES</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig38">
-<img src="images/p14a.jpg" alt="" width="508" height="470" />
-<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">BOOK ENDS</span></p>
-<p class="pcapc">It is necessary to add a metal base such as
-this on light-weight bookends. Be sure there
-are no sharp edges on it that might scratch
-the furniture.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div>
-<h2 id="c21"><span class="small">CEILING LIGHT FIXTURE</span></h2>
-<p>Probably your thought on this fixture will be, &ldquo;You can&rsquo;t put
-that in a living room.&rdquo; Not in any or every living room, but I
-know a beautiful large living room where a similar one is hung
-and it certainly sets off the Navaho rugs and Indian baskets and
-pottery in that room. This fixture would be ideal in a den or
-recreation room.</p>
-<p>A cluster of four light bulbs should light it, or a socket can be
-set on each of the four sides. Frosted, or better still, an opal
-glass should be used. The side pieces are taken from the woven
-designs on Hopi women&rsquo;s dresses, predominantly black.</p>
-<h2 id="c22"><span class="small">BOOK ENDS</span></h2>
-<p>These can also be made without the back or upright; that is,
-the doll would be set flush with the back edge of the base. But
-the metal base must be added unless the wooden base is well
-weighted with lead. I have made them that way, but prefer the
-thin metal piece instead. Twenty-gauge brass works out nicely.
-To fasten it, use small flat-head screws, countersunk, and give
-the metal a coat of thin shellac where it fits into the wood. Wood
-and metal must be flush along the bottom.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig39">
-<img src="images/p15.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="641" />
-<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">KACHINA DOLL POSTS</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div>
-<h2 id="c23"><span class="small">KACHINA DOLL POSTS</span></h2>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p15c.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="300" height="306" />
-</div>
-<p>These attractive gate posts
-are rather easy to make. I used
-sections of old electric-line or
-telephone poles. They are of
-cedar and will withstand the
-weather. After cleaning the surface of the post
-with a drawknife, it is worked with a small hand ax,
-chisel, and mallet. Note the 2-foot or 3-foot projection
-left on the bottom to set it.</p>
-<p>Paint with ordinary house paint and, if you wish,
-finish with a coat of clear varnish to protect the
-paint. I used water colors and finished with two
-coats of clear spar varnish. But house paints are
-easier to obtain.</p>
-<p>The hearth posts may be flattened somewhat at
-the back to fit tightly against the fireplace. Telephone
-poles make the best material as they are well
-seasoned. The mantel shelf should be at least 2
-inches thick. Three inches would be better, and
-could be effected by gluing a 3-inch piece of &#8542;-inch
-lumber around the front and two ends to give
-it the appearance of a solid 3-inch plank.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div>
-<h2 id="c24"><span class="small">BIBLIOGRAPHY</span></h2>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Arizona Highways Magazine.</dt>
-<dd>Various issues.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Cody, Bertha P.</dt>
-<dd>1939. <b>Kachina Dolls.</b> The Masterkey, Vol. 13. Los Angeles.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Colton, Harold S.</dt>
-<dd>1949. <b>Hopi Kachina Dolls.</b> Univ. of New Mexico Press. Albuquerque.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Dockstader, Frederick J.</dt>
-<dd>1954. <b>The Kachina and the White Man.</b> Cranbrook Bulletin 35. Bloomfield Hills, Mich.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Earl, Edwin.</dt>
-<dd>1938. <b>Hopi Kachina.</b> Waverly Press. Baltimore.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Fewkes, J. W.</dt>
-<dd>1903. <b>Hopi Kachina.</b> Bur. of Amer. Ethnology, Ann. Rept. 21. Washington, D. C.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Mera, H. P.</dt>
-<dd>1937. <b>Rainbird.</b> Lab. of Anthropology Memoir, Vol. 2. Santa Fe.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Roediger, Virginia.</dt>
-<dd>1941. <b>Ceremonial Costumes of the Pueblo Indians.</b> Univ. of Calif. Press. Berkeley.</dd></dl>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Underhill, Ruth.</dt>
-<dd>1944. <b>Pueblo Crafts.</b> U. S. Indian Service, Phoenix Indian School. Phoenix, Ariz.</dd></dl>
-<h2>Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes</h2>
-<ul>
-<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li>
-<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li>
-<li>Adjusted some references to images to fit a reflowable eBook {changes are included in brackets}.</li>
-<li>In the text versions only, text in <i>italics</i> is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
-</ul>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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