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diff --git a/old/62264-0.txt b/old/62264-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 29af559..0000000 --- a/old/62264-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2043 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's "Crazy Daisy" Boutique, Vol. No. 5, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: "Crazy Daisy" Boutique, Vol. No. 5 - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: May 28, 2020 [EBook #62264] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK "CRAZY DAISY" BOUTIQUE, VOL. NO. 5 *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - _“Crazy Daisy” Boutique_ - - - VOL. NO. 5 by HERO - $1.00 - - ORIGINAL - “CRAZY DAISY” - DESIGNS - - - - - INDEX - - - Page - Long Daisy Bolero 5 - Baby Sacque and Cap 6 - Bulky Yarn Afghan 8 - Crazy Daisy Shell 10 - Long Skirt 11 - Short Skirt 11 - Mother and Daughter Dress 14 and 15 - Dimensional Daisy Pillow 15 - Striped Daisy Pillow 15 - Wall Hanging 17 - Crocheted Afghan with Daisy Trim 18 - King Size Crazy Daisy Stole 18 - Carriage Robe 19 - Daisy Trim Apron 20 - Tablecloth 20 - Mardi Gras Bag 22 - Daisy Snood 22 - Crazy Daisy Handbag 22 - Crazy Daisy Cardigan 23 - - - - - VOLUME 5 - -All directions in this book have been checked for accuracy. We cannot be -responsible for typographical errors or misinterpretation of directions. - - • - Copyright - SCOVILL MANUFACTURING - COMPANY - DRITZ DIVISION - 350 Fifth Avenue - New York, N.Y. 10001 - • - Published in U.S.A. - - - - - It’s a _“Crazy Daisy”_ world! - - - [Illustration: Article No. 650 - The Original Regular Size “Crazy Daisy” Winder. - Makes Daisies up to 2″ diameter.] - - [Illustration: “CRAZY DAISY” WINDERS - cut crochet time in half and are used to make afghans, sweaters, - stoles, baby items, doilies, and decorative flowers.] - - [Illustration: Article No. 651 - The Original King Size “Crazy Daisy” Winder. - Makes Daisies up to 3″ diameter.] - - - - - OTHER FAMOUS HERO PRODUCTS ... - - • Hero Standard Knitting Needles - • Perfectly Formed Crochet Hooks - • One Piece All Nylon Circular Needles - • Over 100 Knitting Aids and Accessories - - SCOVILL DRITZ DIVISION - SCOVILL MANUFACTURING COMPANY - 350 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, N. Y. 10001 - - - - - Helpful Hints and General Directions - - -HOW TO DETERMINE SIZE TO MAKE: Directions are based on standard -measurements listed below. Allowance has been made to size, stitch, yarn -and style of garment for best results. These are general body -measurements and may vary with each individual. - - SIZE 10 12 14 16 - - BUST 32½″ 34″ 36″ 38″ - WAIST 24″ 25½″ 27″ 29″ - HIP 34½″ 36″ 38″ 40″ - -Consult chart to determine size to make not overlooking the fact that -these are body measurements and not measurements of finished garment. - - -HOOKS, TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS: - -Crochet Hooks are made in steel, plastic and aluminum. Steel crochet -hooks range in size from 00 the largest to size 14 the smallest. -Aluminum crochet hooks range in size from C through K and plastic -crochet hooks come in the following sizes: OD, 1-2E, 3-4F, 5G, 6H, 8I, -9J. The size of needle affects the gauge and therefore the measurements -of the finished garment. It also affects the texture of the work. A -needle that is too fine for the yarn makes the garment stiff and a -needle that is too coarse makes the garment stretchy. - -Tapestry Needles are large-eyed blunt pointed needles used for sewing -garments tog or embroidery. - -An asterisk (*) indicates that instructions immediately following are to -be repeated the given number of times, in addition to the original. -“Repeat from * 4 times” means 5 times in all. - -Even means that a row or rnd is to be worked without increasing or -decreasing. - -Work means to continue in same stitch you have been working. - -Directions in parentheses are repeated as often as specified. “(Ch 3, sc -in next sp of petal) 3 times” means whatever is enclosed in parentheses -is to be repeated for 3 times in all. - - -CROCHETING ABBREVIATIONS: - -ch—chain, sc—single crochet, dc—double crochet, sdc—short double -crochet, hdc—half double crochet, trc—treble crochet, sl st—slip stitch, -dec—decrease, inc—increase, st—stitch, tog—together, rnd—round, -beg—beginning, sp—space. - - -TO MAKE DAISIES: - -These directions can be used for the HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and for the -HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. - -A: Hold winder in left hand with flat side in palm of hand. Turn knob to -release spokes (see illustration A). - -B: Turn winder over with knob underneath and flat side with spokes -extended facing you. Hold winder in left hand. With left thumb hold yarn -at center leaving end to extend about 1″; with right hand, pass yarn -from left to right around spoke No. 1; then across center from right to -left around spoke No. 2 directly opposite. Wrap around these 2 spokes -once more in the same manner, or as many times as desired (the number of -wraps depends upon the thickness of the yarn you will be using). Bring -yarn across center and wind from left to right around spoke No. 3; then -across center from right to left around spoke No. 4. Wrap around these 2 -spokes once more, or as many times as you wrapped around spoke 1 and 2. -Bring yarn across center and wind from left to right around spoke No. 5; -then across center and from right to left around spoke No. 6. Wrap -around these 2 spokes once more or as many times as you wrapped around -spoke 1 and 2. Continue in this manner to wrap yarn around 2 spokes -directly opposite each other and then passing onto the next 2 spokes -until all spokes are wrapped, ending with spoke No. 12. Bring yarn -across center and cut leaving 1″ extended beyond center (see -illustration B). Do not remove from winder. - - [Illustration: A] - - [Illustration: B] - -C: Center: Thread tapestry needle with yarn. The side facing you will be -the wrong side of the daisy. Fasten at center of wrong side as for -embroidery. Insert needle under 4 petals and draw yarn through; bring -yarn back over last 3 of the 4 petals; insert needle under these 3 -petals plus 1 more, making 4 petals in all; draw yarn through. Continue -in this manner to bring yarn back 3 petals and then draw it under 4 -petals each time until you have made 13 sts. Be sure to have 13 sts or -center will be incomplete. As the center sts are worked, weave around -the starting end of daisy for a few sts to fasten it securely. Fasten on -wrong side. Cut ends (see illustration C). Turn knob to draw in spokes -and release daisy. - -D. Right side of daisy. - - [Illustration: C] - - [Illustration: D] - -JOINING A: Picot Joining of Daisies: These directions can be used for -the Crazy Daisy Winder and for the King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. Note: -Connections for daisy have been written for a sport yarn or knitting -worsted. The number of chains used in connecting the daisies to each -other may have to be adjusted if any other type of yarn or cotton is -used. - -1st BLOCK: Using crochet hook, sc in sp of petal of daisy (make sure to -take up as many of the petals as you wrapped around for each petal when -winding). * (ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in -side-top of last sc (picot); repeat from * twice more, ending (ch 4, sc -in sp of next petal) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, -sl st in side-top of last st (picot), 4 picots around. Leave a 2″ thread -and fasten off securely on back. - -2nd BLOCK: Sc in sp of petal of 2nd daisy. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next -petal) 3 times, place daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in -sp of picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 2nd block -to complete the picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next ch-4 sp on 1st -block, ch 2, sc back into next petal on 2nd daisy) 3 times. Ch 2, sl st -in center of corner picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back into last sc -on 2nd block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal on -2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in side-top of last sc for a picot, (ch -4, sc in sp of next petal), twice, ending ch 4, join with a sl st to -first sc, ch 5, sl st back into last st to complete the picot. Leave a -2″ thread and fasten off securely on back. - -3rd BLOCK: Join a 3rd block to another side of first block as follows: -Sc in sp of petal of 3rd daisy. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3 times, -hold 3rd daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot -on first block, ch 2, sl st back in last sc on 3rd block, (ch 2, sl st -in next sp on first block, ch 2, sc back into next petal on 3rd block) 3 -times, ch 2, sl st in center st between the 2 picots that join the first -and second block, ch 2, sl st in last sc on 3rd block, (ch 4, sc in sp -of next petal) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in side-top of last sc (picot), (ch -4, sc in sp of next petal) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, -ch 5, sl st in last st to form a picot. Leave a 2″ thread and fasten off -securely on back. - -4th BLOCK: Join to one side of 3rd and one side of 2nd block as follows: -Sc in sp of a petal of 4th daisy. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3 -times. Hold 4th daisy back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in sp of -picot on 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in last sc on 4th block to complete -picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc back into -next petal on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center of the 3 joined -picots that connect blocks 1, 2 and 3, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on -4th block (this completes a 4 picot joining). (Ch 2, sl st in next sp on -2nd block, ch 2, sc back into sp of next petal on 4th block) 3 times, ch -2, sl st in sp of picot on 2nd block, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on -4th block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal on -4th daisy) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st back -into last st worked to complete picot. Leave a 2″ thread and fasten off -securely on back. Continue to make and join daisies for desired shape -and size in this manner. - - -TO JOIN DAISIES WITH PICOT JOINING - - [Illustration: Joining A] - - [Illustration: Joining B] - -JOINING B: 1st BLOCK: Rnd 1: With hook, sc in sp of petal (make sure to -take up as many of the petals as you wrapped around for each petal when -winding), * ch 4, sc in sp of next petal; repeat from * around, end ch -4, join with a sl st to first sc. Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, * (ch 4, sc in -next sp) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot; repeat from -* around, ending (ch 4, sc in next sp) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to -first sc, ch 5, sl st back into sc to complete picot. Leave a 2″ thread -and fasten off securely on back. - -2nd BLOCK: Rnd 1: Repeat rnd 1 of first block. Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, -(ch 4, sc in next sp) 3 times, place daisy back to back to first block, -ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back into last so -on 2nd block to complete the picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next ch-4 sp -on 1st block, ch 2, sc back into next ch-4 sp on 2nd block) 3 times. Ch -2, sl st in center of corner picot on 1st block, ch 2, sl st back into -last sc on 2nd block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 -sp on 2nd block) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot, (ch -4, sc in next ch-4 sp on 2nd block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to -first sc, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot. Leave a 2″ thread -and fasten off securely on back. - -3rd BLOCK: Rnd 1: Repeat rnd 1 of first block. Join 3rd block to another -side of first block as follows: Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, (ch 4, sc in next -ch-4 sp on 3rd block) 3 times, hold 3rd block back to back to first -block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back into -sc on 3rd block for completion of picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next -ch-4 sp on first block, ch 2, sc back into next ch-4 sp on 3rd block) 3 -times. Ch 2, sl st in center of joined picots of first and second block, -ch 2, sl st in sc on 3rd block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in -next sp on 3rd block) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot, -(ch 4, sc in next sp on 3rd block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to -first sc, ch 5, sl st in sc to complete picot. Leave a 2″ strand and -fasten off securely on back. - -4th BLOCK: Rnd 1: Repeat rnd 1 of first block. Join 4th block to one -side of 3rd and one side of 2nd block as follows: Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, -(ch 4, sc in next sp of 4th block) 3 times, hold 4th block back to back -to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in -last sc on 4th block to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in first -ch-4 sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch -2, sl st in center of the 3 joined picots that connect block 1, 2 and 3, -ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 4th block (this completes a 4 picot -joining). (Ch 2, sl st in first ch-4 sp on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in next -ch-4 sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on 2nd block, -ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 4th block to complete picot joining. -(Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp on 4th block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st -to first sc, ch 5, sl st in sc to complete picot. Leave a 2″ thread and -fasten off securely on back. Continue to make and join daisies for -desired shape and size in this manner. - - - - - LONG DAISY BOLERO - - - Shown on front cover - -SIZES: Directions are for Small (size 8-10). Changes for Medium (size -12-14) are in parentheses. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. -Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 4 (5) Royal Blue (A) and 4 (5) White (B). -HERO No. 1 steel crochet hook and tapestry needle. - -GAUGE: Two connected blocks—6″. - -NOTE: Shape of neck on medium size is slightly different in order to -attain proper sizing. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 77 (91) daisies on King Size Crazy Daisy Winder, -winding twice around spokes and sewing centers all with color A. Make 77 -(91) daisies on Crazy Daisy Winder, winding twice around spokes with -color B and sewing centers with color A. See page 3 for directions to -make daisies. - -1st BLOCK: Place smaller B daisy on top of A daisy and tack securely. -Rnd 1: With B, sc in space of petal, going through both loops of petal -of A daisy, ch 4, 2 hdc into sp of same petal (half corner), * (ch 1, 3 -hdc in sp of next petal) 3 times, ch 1, 3 hdc back into last petal -worked in to complete a corner; repeat from *, end (ch 1, 3 hdc in sp of -next petal) twice, ch 1, 3 hdc in first petal, ch 1 and join with a sl -st to top of starting ch to complete 4th corner. Fasten off B and attach -A. Rnd 2: With A, sl st in sp of corner, * (ch 4, sl st in next sp under -ch-1 of previous rnd) 4 times, ch 5, sl st back into base of last sl st -in center of corner to form a picot; repeat from *, end with the -completion of picot in 4th corner, join with a sl st to first sl st. -Fasten off. - -2nd BLOCK: Work as for first block until completion of rnd 1. Rnd 2: -With A, sl st in sp of corner, (ch 4, sl st in next sp under ch-1 of -previous rnd) 4 times, hold back to back to first block, ch 3, sl st in -sp of picot on first block, ch 3, sl st back into base sl st to complete -picot joining, (ch 4, sl st in next ch-4 sp on first block, ch 4, sl st -in next ch-1 sp on 2nd block) 4 times, ch 3, sl st in picot on first -block, ch 3, sl st back into base sl st to complete picot joining. * (Ch -4, sl st in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 5, sl st back into base sl st to -complete picot; repeat from * once more, ending with the 4th picot being -worked in starting corner. Join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off. - -3rd BLOCK: Work as for first block until completion of rnd 1. Third -block is joined to another side of first block. With A, sl st in sp of -corner, (ch 4, sl st in next sp under ch-1) 4 times, hold back to back -to first block, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 3, sl st -back into base sl st to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sl st under next -ch-4 sp on first block, ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp on 3rd block) 4 -times, ch 3, sl st in center between joined picots of block 1 and 2, ch -3, sl st back into base sl st to complete picot joining. *(Ch 4, sl st -under next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 5, sl st back into base sl st to form a -picot; repeat from * once more, ending with the 4th picot being worked -in starting corner. Join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off. - -4th BLOCK: Work as for first block until completion of rnd 1. Fourth -block is joined to one side of block 3 and one side of block 2. Rnd 2: -With A, sl st in sp of corner, (ch 4, sl st in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, -hold back to back to third block, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on third -block, ch 3, sl st back in base st to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sl -st under next ch-4 sp on third block, ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp on -4th block) 4 times, ch 3, sl st in center of the 3 joined picots, ch 3, -sl st back into base sl st to complete a 4 picot joining, (ch 4, sl st -under next ch-4 sp on 2nd block, ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp on 4th -block) 4 times, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on 2nd block, ch 3, sl st -back in base sl st to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sl st under next -ch-1 sp) 4 times, ending in first corner, ch 5, sl st in base sl st to -form 4th picot, join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off. Join all -blocks in this manner. - -BODY: Join 5 rows of 11 (13) blocks across to underarm (this includes -right front, back and left front). RIGHT FRONT: Connect 2 rows of 2 (3) -blocks for right front onto body. For medium size only, leave off 1 -block at front edge for neck. For both sizes, connect 1 more row of 2 -blocks. BACK: Leave off the 3rd (4th) block from right front edge for -armhole and for the 6th row of back, connect next 5 blocks across back. -Add 1 more row of 5 blocks for back armhole. LEFT FRONT: Leave off the -3rd (4th) block from left front edge for armhole and work to correspond -to right front. Connect blocks from fronts to back for shoulders, -leaving out center block on back for neck. - -FINISHING: Block lightly on wrong side. TRIM: Row 1: Attach B at lower -right front corner and sc under ch-4 sp, * ch 4, sc in next sp (1 -pattern); repeat from * along right front edge, around neck, along left -front edge and across lower edge, placing 2 patterns in each corner, -ending join with a sl st to first sc (see that work lies flat). Row 2: -With B, * ch 4, sc in next sp; repeat from * around all edges worked on -row 1, placing 2 patterns in each corner, ending join with a sl st. Row -3: With B, ch 4, 2 dc in first sp, ch 1, * 3 dc in next sp, ch 1; repeat -from * around all edges, placing 2 patterns in each corner, ending join -with a sl st to top of starting ch (check to see that work lies flat). -Fasten off B. Attach double strand A, and work backwards (counter -clockwise) as follows: * Ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp (1 pattern); repeat -from * around all edges, placing 2 patterns in each corner. Join with a -sl st and fasten off. - -ARMHOLE TRIM: Work same as for trim around edges of bolero. - - - - - BABY SACQUE AND CAP - - - Shown on page 7 - -SIZE: 6 mo. to 1 yr. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 3 Mint -Green (A) and 1 White (B). HERO No. 1 steel crochet hook and No. C -aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. 1 yd ½″ wide satin ribbon. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 62 daisies (57 for sacque, 5 for cap) following -directions on page 3. Use A for petals and B for sewing centers, winding -A 3 times around each spoke. - - - SACQUE - -CONNECTING DAISIES: With B and No. 1 steel crochet hook, sc in sp of a -petal (go through 3 loops of petal), * ch 3, yo and pick up a loop in -first ch, yo pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo pick up a -loop back in same first ch (4 loops on hook), yo pull through all 4 -loops (cluster), sc in sp of next petal; repeat from *, end join with a -slip st to first sc (12 clusters). Fasten off. Crochet around all 62 -daisies with B in this manner. - -FIRST BLOCK: Attach A, with No. 1 crochet hook, sc in back loop of sc of -B cluster on previous rnd, * (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B -cluster of previous rnd) 3 times, ch 5, slip st back into base sc to -form a picot; repeat from * around end (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of -next B cluster) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, slip -st into base sc to complete the 4th picot. Fasten off. - -SECOND BLOCK: Attach A and sc in back loop of sc of B cluster, (ch 4, sc -in back loop of sc of next cluster) 3 times. Place daisy back to back -with first block, ch 2, slip st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, -slip st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 2, slip st in -first space of first block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc of next B -cluster on 2nd block) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in picot of first block, ch -2, slip st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in -back loop of sc of next B cluster) 3 times, ch 5, slip st in base sc to -complete picot, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) twice, -ch 4, join with a slip st to first sc, ch 5, slip st back into base sc -to complete 4th picot. Fasten off. - -THIRD BLOCK: The third block is joined to another side of the first -block. With A, sc in back loop of sc of B cluster on previous rnd, (ch -4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) 3 times. Hold daisy back to -back to first block, ch 2, slip st in picot of first block, ch 2, slip -st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 2, slip st in first -space on first block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster on -3rd daisy) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in center between 2 picots, ch 2, slip -st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in back loop -of sc of next B cluster) 3 times, ch 5, slip st back into base so to -complete picot, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) twice, -ch 4, join with a slip st to starting sc, ch 5, slip st back into base -sc to complete picot. Fasten off. - -FOURTH BLOCK: The fourth block is joined to one side each of both the -2nd and 3rd blocks. Attach A and sc in back loop of sc of B cluster, (ch -4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) 3 times, place daisy back to -back with 3rd block, ch 2, slip st in picot on 3rd block, ch 2, slip st -back into base sc on 4th block to complete picot joining, (ch 2, slip st -in next space on 3rd block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc of next B -cluster on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in center of the 3 joined -picots, ch 2, slip st back into base sc to complete the 4th picot at the -joining, (ch 2, slip st in next space on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in back -loop of sc of next B cluster on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in -picot on 2nd block, ch 2, slip st back into base sc to complete picot -joining, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) twice, ch 4, -join with a slip st to first sc, ch 5, slip st back into base sc to -complete 4th picot. Fasten off. - -BODY: Connect 3 rows of 11 blocks across. - -SLEEVES: Make 2. Connect 3 rows of 4 blocks across; then join -undersleeve seam as you join the rest of the blocks. - -YOKE: With C hook, A and right side facing, work 26 sc across 3 blocks -of body (right front), place a marker, work 33 sc around one sleeve, -place a marker, work 44 sc across 5 blocks of body (back), place a -marker, work 33 sc around other sleeve, place a marker, work 26 sc -across last 3 blocks (left front). Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: * 1 dc in each -st to within 2 sts from next marker, yo pull up a loop in next st, yo -pull through 2 loops leaving 2 loops on hook, yo pull up a loop in next -st, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 3 loops (1 dc decreased), -slip marker, decrease 1 dc on next 2 sts; repeat from * across (8 sts -dec on row). Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 for 10 times more. Fasten off. - -FINISHING: With A, right side facing, No. 1 hook and starting on right -front at start of yoke, work sc along right front yoke, around neck and -along left front yoke edge, placing 3 sc at each corner of neck. Fasten -off A and attach B. Working backwards along row just completed (counter -clockwise), * ch 1, skip 1 sc, hdc in next sc; repeat from * around yoke -edges and neck. Fasten off. With double strand A, make a ch long enough -to pull through neck edge and tie. Pull ch through neck edge. End of -Tie: With A and No. 1 hook, ch 3, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd -1: 6 sc in ring. Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc. Roll end of tie into cup shape -and sew tog. Block lightly. - - - CAP - -With A and No. C hook, ch 64 loosely. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * -dc in next ch; repeat from * across, 62 dc (to measure about 10″ -across). Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: 1 dc in each dc. Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row -2 for pattern st. Work even 3¾″. Next row: Leave off 20 sts, attach yarn -and work dc on center 22 sts, leaving off the last 20 sts. Work even on -the center 22 sts until piece measures the width of left off 20 sts at -each side edge. Fasten off. Sew seams placing length of center piece to -width of left off 20 sts at each side edge. Work 4 rows of sc across -back of cap taking it in on first row to measure about 9″. Connect 5 -daisies across in one line as shown for cuff. Crochet lower edge of -daisies to front edge of cap with a row of sc. Tack daisies at each side -edge. Sew on ribbon for ties. - - [Illustration: Instructions for Carriage Robe on page 19.] - - - - - BULKY YARN AFGHAN - - - Shown on front cover - -SIZE: Approx. 50″ × 58″. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and HERO King Size Crazy Daisy -Winder. Bulky Knitting Worsted, 2 oz. skein, 14 Gold (A) and 13 Cardinal -Red (B). Four oz. skein of Navy Knitting Worsted (C) for centers. HERO -No. J aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. - -SMALL DAISY: With A, make 98 daisies on the Crazy Daisy Winder, winding -yarn around spokes twice (see page 3 and instructions included with -Crazy Daisy Winder), using C for sewing the centers. - -LARGE DAISY: With B, make 97 daisies on the King Size Crazy Daisy -Winder, winding yarn around spokes twice (see page 3 and instructions -included with King Size Crazy Daisy Winder), using C for sewing the -centers. - -FIRST BLOCK: Small daisy. Rnd 1: With A, sc in back loop of a petal of -small daisy leaving the top loop free, * ch 1, sc in back loop of next -petal leaving top loop free; repeat from * around, end ch 1, join with a -sl st to first sc. Rnd 2: * Ch 2, sc in next sp; repeat from * around, -end join with a slip st. Fasten off A. Rnd 3: Attach B and sc in first -sp, * ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch -4, sl st back in base sc of ch for picot; repeat from * around, ending -with ch 4, sl st in base sc to form 4th picot, join with a sl st to -first sc and fasten off. - -SECOND BLOCK: Large Daisy. With B, sc in double loop of a petal of large -daisy, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal) 3 times, hold first block -back to back with 2nd daisy, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, -ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 2nd daisy to complete picot joining. -(Ch 2, sc in first sp of first block, ch 2, sc in next double loop of -2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in picot of first block, ch 2, sl st -back into base sc on 2nd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in -next double loop on 2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to -form a picot, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal on 2nd daisy) -twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base -sc to form 4th picot. Fasten off securely. - -THIRD BLOCK: Join a large daisy for third block to another side of first -block. With B, sc in double loop of a petal of 3rd daisy, (ch 2, sc in -next double loop of petal of 3rd daisy) 3 times, hold 3rd daisy back to -back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, sl -st back into base sc on 3rd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc -in first sp of first block, ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal of 3rd -daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center between the 2 joined picots of -first and second blocks, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 3rd daisy. (Ch -2, sc in next double loop on 3rd daisy) 3 times, ch 4, sl st back into -base sc to form a picot, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal) twice, -ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to -form 4th picot. Fasten off securely. - -FOURTH BLOCK: Join a small daisy to one side each of 2nd and 3rd blocks -as follows: With A, work rnd 1 and rnd 2 as explained for first block. -Rnd 3: Attach B and sc in first sp. * (Ch 2, sc in next sp) 3 times, -hold 4th daisy back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in picot on 3rd -block, ch 2, sl st back in base ch on 4th daisy to complete picot -joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc back in next sp on -4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center of picots, ch 2, sc back into -base sc on 4th block (completion of a 4th picot at joining). (Ch 2, sc -in next sp on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in next sp on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch -2, sl st in picot of 2nd block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 4th -daisy (completion of connection picot), (ch 2, sc in next sp on 4th -daisy) twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into -base sc to form the 4th picot. Fasten off securely. Connect daisies in -this manner, alternating a small and large daisy until there are 13 -daisies across for width and 15 rows for length. - -FINISHING: Block lightly on wrong side. Attach A at corner, with right -side facing and working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, sc in -corner space, * ch 1, sc in next space; repeat from * around always -working 2 patterns in each corner and ending with 1 pattern in the -starting corner. Join with a sl st and fasten off. - - [Illustration: Shown are several types of daisies and joinings used - in making the garments in this book. Also shown are some suggestions - for variations that can be made with the Hero “Crazy Daisy” Winder - and the Hero King Size “Crazy Daisy” Winder.] - - - - - CRAZY DAISY SHELL - - - Shown here and on page 13 - - [Illustration: Shell and skirt] - -SIZES: Directions are for size 8. Changes for sizes 10-12, 14-16 and -18-20 are in parentheses. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 5 -(6-7-8) Ecru (A) and 2 (2-3-3) Burnt Orange (B). HERO No. 1 steel -crochet hook and tapestry needle. - -GAUGE: Two connected daisies—4″. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: See page 3 for directions for making daisies. Make -petals in A and sew centers with B. Wind A twice around each spoke. Make -144 (165-198-219) daisies. - -TO CONNECT DAISIES: See page 4 for JOINING B. Work rnd 1 of joining with -B; then work rnd 2 with A. Connect 16 (18-20-22) daisies all around for -body of shell. Connect 7 rnds of daisies for length to underarm. - -BACK: Divide work in half allowing 8 (9-10-11) daisies for back and 8 -(9-10-11) daisies for front. Leave off 1 daisy at each end for underarm, -6 (7-8-9) daisies. Connect 3 (3-4-4) rows of 6 (7-8-9) daisies for back -armhole. For size 10-12, next row, connect 1 daisy, leave off next 5 -daisies for neck, connect 1 daisy. - -FRONT: Leave off 1 daisy at each end for underarm, 6 (7-8-9) daisies. -Connect 2 (2-3-3) rows of 6 (7-8-9) daisies for front armhole. SHAPE -NECK: Connect 1 daisy, leave off center 4 (5-6-7) daisies for neck, -connect 1 daisy. Connect front shoulder to back. - -FINISHING: Block lightly. LOWER TRIM: Attach A at seam edge, * ch 3 -loosely, sc in next sp; repeat from * around (be sure work lies flat and -doesn’t draw in). Next row: Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, -hdc in space, * ch 1, hdc in next space; repeat from * around. Join with -a slip st and fasten off. - -NECK TRIM: Rnd 1: Attach A yarn at shoulder, * ch 3 loosely, sc in next -space; repeat from * around (see that work lies flat and doesn’t draw -in). Rnd 2: * Ch 2, sc in next space; repeat from * around. Rnd 3: * Ch -1, sc in next space; repeat from * around. For sizes 10-12, work 1 or 2 -more rnds as for rnd 3 to fill in neck if necessary. Next rnd: Work as -for last rnd as on lower edge. Fasten off. - -ARMHOLE TRIM: Attach A yarn at underarm. Rnd 1: * Ch 3, sc in next sp; -repeat from * around. Rnd 2: Repeat rnd 1 (see that work takes in -armhole slightly and shapes it). Next rnd: Work as for last rnd as on -lower edge. Fasten off. - - - - - LONG SKIRT - - - Shown on pages 10 and 13 - -NOTE: Directions for short skirt are included in these directions. - -SIZES: Directions are for Small (size 8-10). Changes for Medium (size -12-14) are in parentheses. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 10 -(11) Hot Pink (A) and 1 skein of Purple (B). HERO No. 1 steel crochet -hook and No. C aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. Skirt zipper, lt. -weight lining fabric and 2 hooks and eyes. - -GAUGE: Two connected blocks—7″. - -Note: Use No. 1 steel crochet hook to crochet around daisies and connect -blocks. Use No. C aluminum crochet hook for lower border and waistband. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: See directions on page 3 for making daisies. Make 108 -(126) daisies with A, winding 3 times around each spoke and sewing -center with double strand B. - -FIRST BLOCK: Rnd 1: With wrong side of daisy facing, with A, sc in petal -of daisy (go in space through the 3 loops of petal), * ch 5, yo and pull -up a loop in first ch, yo pull through 2 loops and leave 2 loops on -hook, yo pull up a loop in first ch (same as first st), yo pull through -2 loops, yo pull through 3 loops, sc in next petal (cluster); repeat -from * around (12 clusters). Join with a sl st to first sc. Turn. Rnd 2: -Ch 5, sc in back of st between next 2 clusters, * ch 4, sc in back of st -between next 2 clusters; repeat from *, end ch 4, join with a sl st (12 -spaces). Rnd 3: Sc in first sp, ch 5, dc in first sp (half corner), * -(ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 3 times, ch 2, 2 dc back into last sp worked in -to complete corner; repeat from * twice more, end (ch 2, 2 dc in next -sp) twice, ch 2, 2 dc in first sp, ch 2, join with a sl st to top of -starting ch to complete other half of corner. Rnd 4: Ch 5, dc back into -corner sp for a half corner, * (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 4 times, ch 2, 2 -dc back in last sp worked in to complete corner; repeat from * twice -more, end (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 3 times, ch 2, 2 dc in first sp, ch 2, -join with a sl st to top of starting ch to complete corner. Rnd 5: * (Ch -3, sc in next sp) 5 times, ch 6, sc back into last sp worked for picot; -repeat from *, end ch 6, sc back into last sp worked (4th picot). Join -with a sl st and fasten off. Crochet around the 107 (125) remaining -daisies in the same manner as for first block. - -TO JOIN BLOCKS: Working with two blocks and holding them back to back, -leave picots free, sc in first ch-3 sp after a picot on block 1, ch 3, -sc in first ch-3 sp after a picot on block 2, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp -on block 1, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 2 (corresponding ch-3 sp -to ch-3 sp worked on block 1); repeat from * along this side edge to -within the picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots from block 1 and 2 -free. - -TO JOIN BLOCK 3: Block 3 is joined to another side of block 1. Hold -block 3 back to back to block 1. Leave picots free, sc in first ch-3 sp -after picot on block 3, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp on block 1, * ch 3, sc -in next ch-3 sp on block 3, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 1 -(corresponding ch-3 sp to ch-3 sp worked on block 3); repeat from * -along this side edge to within the picots. Fasten off securely leaving -picots free. - -TO JOIN BLOCK 4: Block 4 is joined to one side of block 3 and one side -of block 2. Leave picots free and holding block 4 back to back to block -3, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 4, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp -on block 3; * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 4, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 -sp on block 3; repeat from * along this edge to within picots. Fasten -off securely leaving picots free. Sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on -block 4, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 2, * ch 3, sc in -next ch-3 sp on block 4, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 2; repeat -from * along this edge to within picots. Fasten off securely leaving -picots free. At intersection where 4 picots meet from block 1, 2, 3 and -4, join the 4 picots at center using a tapestry needle and B yarn with a -secure st (4 picots joined at center form a 4 leaf clover effect). -Fasten yarn securely. - -Join 7 rows of 12 (14) blocks around. Join 2 more rows leaving an -opening on one side for zipper. Finished skirt with lower band and -waistband is about 37″ in length (there is an allowance for 1″ stretch). - -LOWER BORDER: Rnd 1: With No. C hook, attach yarn and sc in a ch-3 sp. -Working backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc in next ch-3 sp; -repeat from * around (see that work lies flat). Rnd 2: Continue to work -backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc under ch 1 of previous rnd. -Repeat rnd 2 until border is 2″ or desired size. Fasten off. - -WAISTBAND: With No. C hook, work 2 rows of sc around waistline, taking -it in to measure 25″ (26½″) or desired waist size. Row 1: Working -backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, hdc in next st, * ch 1, skip 1, hdc -in next st; repeat from * across, end hdc, ch 1 on turn. Row 2: Hdc in -first sp under ch-1 of previous row (continue to work backwards—counter -clockwise), * ch 1, hdc under next ch-1 of previous row; repeat from *, -end hdc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 until waistband is -2″. Fasten off. - -FINISHING: With No. 1 hook, work 1 row of sl st and 1 row of sc around -zipper opening. Block skirt lightly. Cut lining and sew tog. Stitch -lining to first row of waistband, gathering it in to size of waistband -and leaving lower edge free. Face waistband with a double strip of -lining, leaving a 1½″ extension from back edge for closing tab. Sew in -zipper. Sew on 2 hooks and eyes for closing. - - - SHORT SKIRT - -MATERIALS: 8 (9) skeins color A and 1 skein color B. Work 72 (84) blocks -as for long skirt. Join blocks as for long skirt. Join 4 rows of 12 (14) -blocks around; then join 2 rows of 12 (14) blocks leaving 1 side open -for zipper. Finish as for long skirt, working a 1″ border at lower edge. -This will be about a 24″ length skirt. Adjust length by working a -shorter or longer lower border and waistband. - - [Illustration: Instructions on page 14.] - - [Illustration: Instructions for Shell on page 10. - Instructions for Long Shirt on page 11. - Instructions for the same skirt in a street length on page 11.] - - - - - MOTHER AND DAUGHTER DRESS - - - Shown on page 12 - -SIZES: MOTHER: Directions are for Small (size 10-12). Changes for Medium -(size 14-16) are in parentheses. - -DAUGHTER: Directions are for Small (size 6-8). Changes for Medium (size -10-12) are in parentheses. - -MATERIALS: MOTHER: 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. skein, 6 (8) Green (A) -and 2 ozs. of Pink (B) for trim. DAUGHTER: 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. -skein, 3 (4) Pink (B), 2 ozs. of Green (A) for trim. HERO No. 17 -knitting needles, OR SIZE REQUIRED TO OBTAIN THE GIVEN STITCH GAUGE. -HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and No. 0 steel crochet hook. Tapestry needle. -14 Button molds for mother and 9 button molds for daughter. - -GAUGE: 3 strands on No. 17 needles: 5 sts—2″. - - - MOTHER - -PATTERN No. 1: Row 1: * k 3; p 1; repeat from * across. Row 2: * k 1, p -3; repeat from * across. Row 3: K 2, * p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end p 1, -k 1. Row 4: P 1, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, end k 1, p 2. Row 5; K 1, * -p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end k 2. Row 6: P 2, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, -end k 1, p 1. Row 7: * P 1, k 3; repeat from * across. Row 8: * P 3, k -1; repeat from * across. Repeat these 8 rows for pattern 1. - -PATTERN No. 2: Row 1: * P 1, k 3; repeat from * across. Row 2: * P 3, k -1; repeat from * across. Row 3: K 1, * p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end p 1, -k 2. Row 4: P 2, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, end k 1, p 1. Row 5: K 2, * -p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end p 1, k 1. Row 6: P 1, * k 1, p 3; repeat -from *, end k 1, p 2. Row 7: * K 3, p 1; repeat from * across. Row 8: * -K 1, p 3; repeat from * across. Repeat these 8 rows for pattern 2. Note: -Use 3 strands of yarn tog unless otherwise specified. - -BACK: With 3 strands A and No. 17 needles, cast on 48 (56) sts. Work -first 24 (28) sts in pattern 1, place a marker on needle, work next 24 -(28) sts in pattern 2. Work even as established for 18″ from beg. Dress -is planned for 29″ length to underarm. Any changes in length should be -made before the first dec row. Dec 1 st each end of next row; then every -3″ (2½″) for 2 (3) times more, 42 (48) sts. Work even until 29″ from beg -or desired length to underarm. SHAPE ARMHOLES: Bind off 2 sts at beg of -next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each end every other row twice, 34 (40) sts. BACK -OPENING: Work 17 (20) sts and place on a holder, work on remaining 17 -(20) sts. Work even in pattern as established until armhole is 6¾″ -(7¼″). SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm edge, bind off 5 sts once; then 4 (5) sts -once, 8 (10) sts. Bind off remaining sts loosely. Attach 3 strands at -center opening and work other side to correspond. - -FRONT: Work same as for back until completion of armhole shaping, 34 -(40) sts. Work even until armholes are 5″ (5½″). SHAPE NECK: Work 11 -(13) sts and place on a holder, bind off center 12 (14) sts loosely, -work 11 (13) sts. At neck edge, dec 1 st every other row 2 (3) times. -Work even to shoulder shaping as for back. SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm edge, -bind off 5 sts once; then 4 (5) sts. Attach 3 strands of yarn at neck -edge and work other side to correspond. - -FINISHING: Make 14 daisies on the Crazy Daisy Winder in B as follows: -With left thumb hold yarn at center allowing end to extend 1″. With -right hand pass yarn from left to right around spokes No. 1 and No. 2, -across center from right to left around No. 7 and No. 8; repeat last -wind twice more; across center and pass yarn from left to right around -spokes No. 2 and No. 3, across center from right to left around No. 8 -and No. 9; repeat last wind twice more; across center from left to right -around spokes No. 3 and No. 4, across center from right to left around -No. 9 and No. 10; repeat last wind twice more; across center and pass -yarn from left to right around spokes No. 4 and No. 5, across center -from right to left around No. 10 and No. 11; repeat this last wind twice -more, across center from left to right around spokes No. 5 and No. 6, -across center from right to left around No. 11 and No. 12; repeat last -wind twice more; across center from left to right around spokes No. 6 -and No. 7, across center from right to left around No. 12 and No. 1; -repeat this last wind twice more. Bring yarn to 1″ beyond center and -cut. Do not remove. - - [Illustration: Crazy Daisy] - -CENTER: Note that there is a hole in center after all winds are -completed. Keep left thumb in center to keep the hole in center as you -sew the center. Thread tapestry needle with B. Insert tapestry needle in -space between 2 petals working from outside to center hole (leave a -small end for fastening) and draw through, go back into same space and -draw needle from outside edge to inside to fasten; * insert needle in -next space between petals from center edge to outside edge, wind yarn -around the tapestry needle from left to right as to make a buttonhole -st, draw through and tighten; repeat from * until all petals are secured -(secure loose ends in as you are sewing around). Fasten off securely. -Remove from winder. - -BUTTONS: Make 14. With single strand A, ch 3, join with a sl st to form -a ring. Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc. Rnd 3: 1 sc in each -sc. Rnd 4: Insert mold. * Skip 1 sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * until -completely closed over mold. Fasten off. Sew shoulder and side seams -with single strand. With double strand A, work 1 row of slip st around -neck edge. Next row: Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, * sc -in next st; repeat from * around neck. Fasten off. Work trim around -armhole edges as for neck. With double strand A, work 1 row of slip st -around back opening. Tack daisies along center of front edge and around -neck as shown (on neck place one at top of back opening so button can be -used for closing). Sew a button in center of each daisy as shown. - - - DAUGHTER - -BACK: With 3 strands B and No. 17 needles, cast on 40 (48) sts. Work -first 20 (24) sts in pattern 1, place a marker on needle, work next 20 -(24) sts in pattern 2. Work even 12″ from beg. Dress is planned for 15½″ -(17″) from beg to underarm. Any changes in length should be made before -first dec. Dec 1 st each end of next row; then every 2″ (1½″) 1 (2) -times more, 36 (42) sts. Work even until 15½″ (17″) from beg or desired -length to underarm. SHAPE ARMHOLES: Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 -rows. Dec 1 st each end every other row twice, 28 (34) sts. BACK -OPENING: Work 14 (17) sts and place on a holder; then work across -remaining 14 (17) sts. Work even until armhole is 5¼″ (5¾″). SHAPE -SHOULDER: At arm edge, bind off 4 sts once, 3 (4) sts once, 7 (9) sts. -Bind off remaining sts loosely. Attach 3 strands at center opening and -work other side to correspond. - -FRONT: Work same as back until completion of armhole shaping, 28 (34) -sts. Work even until armhole is 4″ (4¼″). SHAPE NECK. Work 9 (11) sts -and place sts on a holder, bind off center 10 (12) sts, loosely, work -across the remaining 9 (11) sts. At neck edge, dec 1 st every other row -twice. For medium size only, dec 1 st at neck edge every row once, 7 (8) -sts. Work even to shoulder shaping as on back. SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm -edge, bind off 4 sts once, 3 (4) sts once. Attach 3 strands at neck edge -and work other side to correspond. - -FINISHING: Make 9 daisies and 9 buttons using color A for daisies and -color B for buttons. See instructions as given for Mother’s dress. -Crochet neck, armholes and back opening with B as explained for Mother’s -dress. - - - - - Dimensional Daisy Pillow - - - Shown on page 16 - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. Skein, -2 Loden Green (A), 1 Orange (B) and 1 Maize (C). HERO No. F aluminum -crochet hook. Yarn darning needle. Pillow to fit. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow directions for making daisies on page 3. Make 40 -daisies, winding twice around each spoke with C and then winding around -same spokes twice with B (4 winds on each spoke). Sew centers with A. - -TO JOIN DAISIES: Follow directions for JOINING B (see page 4), only -picking up the B petals and leaving the C petals free. Work rnd 1 of -joining with C and rnd 2 with B. Connect 2 pieces of 4 rows of 4 daisies -across. - -FRONT PIECE: Rnd 1: Attach A at a corner, ch 4, dc back in corner sp -(half corner), # * ch 1, 2 dc in next sp; repeat from * 14 times more -(this should bring you along one side edge to next corner—see that work -lies flat), ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc all in next corner sp #; repeat -between #’s ending with 15 patterns along 4th side, ch 1, 2 dc in -starting corner sp, ch 1 and join with a sl st to top of starting ch to -complete corner. Rnd 2: Ch 4, dc in sp of corner (half corner), # * ch -1, 2 dc in next sp; repeat from * to corner, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc all -in corner sp #; repeat between #’s around, end ch 1, 2 dc in first -corner sp, ch 1, join with a sl st to top of starting ch. Repeat rnd 2 -four times more or until you attain the desired size. Fasten off. - -BACK: Work to correspond to front piece. - -FINISHING: Place front and back tog and sl st 3 sides tog, insert pillow -and sl st 4th side tog. TRIM: Attach A, * 5 dc in one sp (pull each dc -up to ¾″), sc in next sp; repeat from * around, placing 8 dc in the -corners. Join with a sl st and fasten off. Sew a daisy to each corner on -back and front as shown. - - - - - Striped Daisy Pillow - - - Shown on page 16 - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. skein, -2 Orange (A) and 1 Maize (B). HERO No. F. aluminum crochet hook. Yarn -darning needle. Pillow to fit. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow directions for making daisies on page 3. Make 16 -color A daisies winding yarn around spokes 4 times and sewing centers -with A. Make 56 daisies, winding yarn around spokes 4 times, alternating -colors (wind every other spoke 4 times with A; then break off A and wind -those spokes that were skipped 4 times with B) and sew centers with A. -See diagram and directions for winding this type daisy included with -instruction for Crazy Daisy Cardigan on page 23. - -TO JOIN DAISIES: Follow directions for JOINING A on page 3. Use color A -for joining. - -FRONT PIECE: Connect 2 rows of 8 A&B combination daisies; 1 row of A -daisies (8 across); 3 rows of A&B combination daisies; 1 row of A -daisies and 2 rows of A&B combination daisies. - -BACK PIECE: Note: If desired, back piece may be worked with daisies as -for front piece, or crocheted with A. - -CROCHETED BACK: With A, ch long enough to fit width of front piece. Row -1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * dc in next ch; repeat from * across. Ch 3 -to turn. Row 2: Ch 3 on turn is counted as first dc, * dc in next dc; -repeat from * across. Ch 3 to turn. Repeat row 2 until piece measures -size of front piece. - -FINISHING: Place 2 pieces tog and sl st 3 sides tog, insert pillow and -sl st 4th side tog. Using double strand A, attach yarn at a corner and -working backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, skip 1, hdc in next st (1 -pattern); repeat from * around, placing 2 patterns in each corner. -Fasten off. - - [Illustration: Afghan, wall hanging, and pillows] - - - - - WALL HANGING - - - Shown on page 16 - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. skein, -1 Maize (A), 1 Orange (B) and 1 Loden Green (C). HERO No. G aluminum -crochet hook. Yarn darning needle. Illustration board 18″ x 24″, 1 yd of -brown heavy denim or canvas material, picture frame to fit, points to -tack illustration board to frame and picture wire. - -Cover illustration board with fabric, securing it firmly on back with -heavy scotch tape or glue. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow basic instructions for making daisies on page 3. -Make 16 daisies winding color A twice around each spoke; then winding -around same spoke twice with color B. Sew centers with C (type D daisy). -Make 4 daisies winding every other spoke 3 times with A; then winding -those spokes that were skipped 3 times with B. Sew centers with B (type -E daisy). - -B PETAL BACKGROUND: Make 5. With B and No. G hook, ch 3, join with a -slip st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3, 15 dc in ring (bring each dc up to -measure 1″). Join with a slip st to top of ch 3. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in -first space between 2 dc * 6 dc in next space (each dc 1″), sc in next -space between 2 dc; repeat from * around, end 6 dc in last space. Join -with a slip st and fasten off. Sew an E type daisy to center of 3 B -petal backgrounds. Sew a D type daisy to center of 2 B petal -backgrounds. - -C SHELL: Make 2. With C, ch 3, join with a slip st to form a ring. Rnd -1: Ch 3, 19 tr c in ring (each tr c to measure 1¼″). Join with a slip st -to top of ch 3. Rnd 2: Ch 1, working backwards (counter clockwise), * sc -in next st; repeat from * around. Fasten off. Sew an E daisy in center -of one shell and a D daisy in the other shell. - - [Illustration: Plan for wall hanging] - - B PETAL BACKGROUND WITH E TYPE DAISY - LARGE CLUSTER - INSIDE CLUSTER - D TYPE DAISY - D TYPE DAISY - D TYPE DAISY - D TYPE DAISY - D TYPE DAISY - B PETAL BACKGROUND WITH D TYPE DAISY - B PETAL BACKGROUND WITH E TYPE DAISY - C SHELL WITH E TYPE DAISY - C SHELL WITH D TYPE DAISY - B PETAL BACKGROUND WITH E TYPE DAISY - B PETAL BACKGROUND WITH D TYPE DAISY - 9″ STEM - 12″ STEM - 16″ STEM - 5″ STEM - 3″ CHAIN - 3″ CHAIN - 6″ STEM - 3″ STEM - -LARGE CLUSTER: First Daisy: With C, sc in a B petal of a D type daisy -(go through both B petals). Work only in B petals and leave A petals -free, * ch 2, sc in next B petal; repeat from * around, end ch 2, sl st -in first sc. Fasten off. Second Daisy: With C, sc in a B petal of a D -type daisy. Work only in B petals and leave A petals free. * (ch 2, sc -in next B petal) 3 times, place daisy back to back with previous daisy -worked, (ch 2, sl st under ch-2 space of first daisy, ch 2, sc in next B -petal on second daisy) 3 times, ** ch 2, sc in next B petal; repeat from -** around, end ch 2, join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Connect -4 more type D daisies to first 2 daisies in this manner. Join the 7th D -type daisy to the first to form a circle as follows: With C, sc in B -petal, (ch 2, sc in next B petal) 3 times, (ch 2, sl st in ch-2 space of -6th daisy, ch 2, sc in next B petal of 7th daisy) 3 times, (ch 2, sc in -next B petal) 3 times, (ch 2, sl st in ch-2 space of first daisy, ch 2, -sc in next B petal) twice, ch 2, sl st in ch-2 space of first daisy, ch -2, join with a sl st in first sc of 7th daisy. Fasten off. Stretch -outside edge to form a flat circle. Rnd 1: Attach C to back center of -first daisy (go through sewing sts) and work a sc, * ch 6, sc in between -2 daisies in the back of the top st, ch 6, sc in back center of next -daisy; repeat from * around, end ch 6, join with a sl st. Fasten off. -Rnd 2: With C, work a sc, 6 dc (all dc 1″ high) and a sc all in space -under ch-6, * work a sc, 6 dc and a sc all in space under next ch-6; -repeat from * around. Join with a sl st and fasten off. - -INSIDE CLUSTER: Rnd 1: With C, sc in a B petal of a type D daisy. Work -in B petals only, leaving A petals free, * sc in next B petal (work sc -loosely); repeat from * around. Rnd 2: * Sc, 2 dc and a sc all in next -sc (shell); repeat from * around until there are 11 shells around. Join -with a sl st and fasten off. - -STEMS: Stems are worked with C. Chain a little longer than length needed -to allow for drawing in. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * dc in next ch; -repeat from * across. Fasten off. Make the following sizes: 16″, 12″, -9″, 5″, 6″, 3″. With 3 strands of C, work a chain of 5″ and a chain of -3″. - -FINISHING: See chart for arrangement or show off your artistic talent -and arrange daisies to create a picture that will be an original. Pin -pieces to fabric first and then with needle and thread sew to fabric. -Attach to frame and attach picture wire to back. - - - - - Crocheted Afghan with Daisy Trim - - - Shown on page 16 - -SIZE: Approx. 55″ x 64″. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. skein, -16 Beige (A), 3 Loden Green (B), 2 Orange (C) and 1 Maize (D). HERO No. -Q crochet hook and No. K aluminum crochet hook. Yarn darning needle. - -GAUGE: Each square approx. 9″ x 9″. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow directions for making daisies on page 3. Make 42 -daisies with C, winding 4 times around each spoke and sewing centers -with B. Make 30 daisies, winding twice with D around each spoke; then -twice with C around each spoke (4 winds in all around each spoke), and -sewing centers with B. - -CROCHETED SQUARE: With 3 strands A and No. Q hook, ch 3, join with a sl -st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Join with a sl st to top -of starting ch 3. Ch 1 and turn. Rnd 2: On this rnd pick up the 2 loops -of each st. Sc back in same st as ch 1 (half corner), * 1 sc in each of -2 sts, 3 sc in next st (corner); repeat from * around, end 1 sc in each -of 2 sts, sc in same st as starting sc, join with a sl st to complete -4th corner. Ch 1 to turn. Rnd 3: Sc back in same st as ch 1 (half -corner), * 1 sc in back loop of next 4 sts, 3 sc in back loop of next st -(corner); repeat from *, end 1 sc in back loop of 4 sc, sc in same st as -starting sc, join with a sl st to complete 4th corner. Ch 1 to turn. Rnd -4: On this rnd pick up both loops of each st. Sc back in same st as ch 1 -(half corner), * 1 sc in each of 6 sc, 3 sc in next st (corner); repeat -from *, end 1 sc in each of 6 sc, sc in same st as starting sc, join -with a sl st to complete 4th corner. Ch 1 to turn. Rnd 5: Sc back in -same st as ch 1 (half corner), 1 sc in back loop of next 8 sc, 3 sc in -back loop of next st (corner); repeat from *, end 1 sc in back loop of 8 -sc, sc in same st as starting sc, join with a sl st to complete 4th -corner. Ch 1 to turn. Rnd 6: On this rnd pick up both loops of each st. -Sc in same st as ch 1 (half corner), * 1 sc in next 10 sts, 3 sc in next -st (corner); repeat from *, end 1 sc in next 10 sc, sc in same st as -starting sc, join with a sl st to complete 4th corner. Pull through 3 -strands of B and fasten off A securely. Ch 1 and turn. Rnd 7: On this -rnd pick up both loops of each st. Sc in same st as ch 1 (half corner), -* 1 sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc in next sc (corner); repeat from *, end 1 sc -in next 12 sc, sc in same st as starting sc, join with a sl st to -complete 4th corner. Fasten off. Crochet 42 squares in this manner. - -FINISHING: Fluff C daisies so that they resemble a pom-pon and sew one -to center of each square. Weave squares tog with B and yarn darning -needle, picking up back loop of st. Sew 6 squares across in width and 7 -rows for length. Sew 5 Orange-Maize combination daisies across each row -at the joinings of squares as shown. OUTER TRIM: With No. K hook and 3 -strands C, work 1 rnd of sc around all sides of afghan, working 3 sc in -each corner st (make sure work lies flat). Fasten off C and attach 3 -strands of B. LAST RND: With No. K hook and working backwards (counter -clockwise), work a sc in each st, working 3 sc in each corner st. Fasten -off. - - - - - King Size Crazy Daisy Stole - - - Shown on page 22 and back cover - -MATERIALS: HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 -oz. skein, 5 Beige (A) and 1 Green (B). HERO No. E aluminum crochet -hook. Tapestry needle. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 48 daisies winding yarn 4 times around each spoke. -Use color A for petals and B for sewing center. Make 80 daisies winding -yarn 3 times around each spoke. Use A for petals and B for centers. See -page 3 for directions for making daisies. - -TO CONNECT DAISIES: BORDERS: Work on those daisies where loops were -wound 4 times around spokes. Rnd 1: Attach B and work a sc in the 2 -lower loops of a petal leaving the 2 upper loops of same petal free, * -ch 4, sc in next petal picking up the 2 lower loops and leaving the 2 -upper loops of same petal free; repeat from * around, end ch 4, join -with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off securely. Work rnd 1 on the 48 -daisies for borders in this manner. Connect 3 rows with 8 daisies across -with A. Follow directions for JOINING B, starting with rnd 2 for each -block (rnd 1 has been worked already with the B) (see page 4 for -directions for JOINING B.) Connect another piece in the same manner for -other border. - -BODY OF STOLE: Connect 10 rows of 8 daisies across with A. Follow -directions for JOINING B, starting with rnd 1 for each block (see page 4 -for directions for JOINING B). - -FINISHING: Connect the 3 rows for border to each side of body of stole -with A in the same manner as the rest of the stole was connected. Block -lightly. TRIM: Rnd 1: With A, starting in a corner and right side -facing, sc in first sp, * ch 4, sc in next sp; repeat from * to corner; -then in corner, ch 4, sc back in same corner; repeat from * around, -ending ch 4, sc in first corner, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc. -Rnd 2: Working backwards (counter-clockwise), * ch 2, hdc in next sp; -repeat from * around, placing 2 patterns in each corner. Fasten off. - - - - - CARRIAGE ROBE - - - Shown here and on page 7 - - [Illustration: Carriage robe] - -MATERIALS: HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 -oz. Skeins, 5 Mint Green (A) and 1 White (B). HERO No. E aluminum -crochet hook. Yarn darning needle. 4 yds ½″ satin ribbon for trim. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow directions for making daisies on page 3. Wind -color A around each spoke twice and sew centers with B. Make 36 daisies. - -TRIM DAISY: Outside Trim: With B, sc in sp of petal (go through both -loops of petal), * ch 3, yo and pull up a loop in first ch, yo pull -through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo pick up a loop back in -first ch (4 loops on hook), yo pull through all 4 loops on hook -(cluster), sc in sp of next petal; repeat from * around, ending with a -cluster, join with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off securely. 12 clusters -around. - -Inside Trim: With B, sc in side of petal near center (go through both -loops), * work a cluster as for outside trim, skip 1 petal, sc in side -of next petal; repeat from * around, end with a cluster and join with a -sl st to first sc. 6 clusters around. Fasten off. Attach A, sc in back -of sc of an outside B cluster, * ch 4, sc in back of next sc of a B -cluster; repeat from * around, end ch 4, join with a sl st. Fasten off. -12 spaces around. - -FIRST BLOCK: Attach A, sc in ch-4 sp, * (ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) 3 -times, ch 5, sl st back in sc to form a picot; repeat from * around, end -(ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, -ch 5, sl st back in sc to complete 4th picot. Fasten off. - -SECOND BLOCK: Attach A, sc in ch-4 sp, (ch 4, sc in next sp) 3 times, -place back to back with first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on first -block, ch 2, sl st back in sc to complete picot joining on 2nd block, -(ch 3, sl st in sp of first block, ch 3, sc in next sp on 2nd block) 3 -times, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 2, sl st in sc on -2nd block to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in next sp on 2nd block) -3 times, ch 5, sl st in sc to complete picot, (ch 4, sc in next sp) -twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, 31 st in sc for 4th -picot. Fasten off. - -THIRD BLOCK: This block is joined to another side of first block. Attach -A, sc in ch-4 sp, (ch 4, sc in next sp) 3 times, place back to back to -first block, ch 2, sl st in picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back in sc -on 3rd block for picot joining, (ch 3, sl st in next sp on first block, -ch 3, sc in next sp on 3rd block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center of -picot joining, ch 2, sl st back in sc on 3rd block for picot joining, -(ch 4, sc in next sp on 3rd block) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back in sc for -picot, (ch 4, sc in next sp) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, -ch 5, sl st back in sc to complete 4th picot. Fasten off. - -FOURTH BLOCK: This block is joined to one side each of 2nd and 3rd -blocks. Attach A, sc in ch-4 sp, (ch 4, sc in next sp) 3 times, place -back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in picot of 3rd block, ch 2, sl -st back in sc on 4th block for picot joining, (ch 3, sl st in next sp on -3rd block, ch 3, sc in next sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in -center of 3 joined picots, ch 2, sl st back in sc on 4th block to -complete 4th picot joining, (ch 3, sl st in next sp on 2nd block, ch 3, -sc in next sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in picot on 2nd block, -ch 2, sl st in sc on 4th block to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in -next sp on 4th block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, -sl st back in sc to complete picot. Fasten off. Connect 6 rows of 6 -blocks across for center piece. - -Rnd 1: Attach A at a corner and work ch 3, 2 dc in corner sp (half -corner), # * ch 1, 3 dc in next sp (1 pattern); repeat from * across to -next corner (18 patterns) (see that work lies flat), in next corner sp -work ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc all in the one sp #; repeat between #’s -around, ending with 18 patterns on the 4th side, ch 1, 3 dc in starting -corner, ch 1 and join with a sl st to top of starting ch. - -Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in corner sp (half corner), # * ch 1, 3 dc in next sp; -repeat from * to corner, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in corner sp #; repeat -between #’s around, ending with ch 1, 3 dc in first corner, ch 1, join -with a sl st to top of starting ch. Repeat rnd 2 for 12 times more or -until desired size. - -Last rnd: Working backwards (counter clockwise) sc in each st around, -working 2 sc in each corner (see that work lies flat). Fasten off. - -FINISHING: Weave ribbon in and out around last eyelet row as shown. Sew -ends of ribbon tog. - - - - - Tablecloth - - - Shown on page 21 - -SIZE: Approximately 52″ x 52″ - -MATERIALS: HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. Coats & Clarks O.N.T. -“Speed-Cro-Sheen”, 100 yd ball, 16 Yellow (A) and 6 Hunter Green (B). -HERO No. C aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. - -TO MAKE DAISY: With left thumb hold yarn at center allowing end to -extend 1″. With right hand pass yarn from left to right around spokes -No. 1 and No. 2, across center from right to left around No. 7 and No. -8; repeat the last wind twice more (3 times in all); across center and -pass yarn from left to right around spokes No. 2 and 3, across center -from right to left around No. 8 and 9; repeat last wind twice more; -across center from left to right around spokes No. 3 and No. 4, across -center from right to left around No. 9 and No. 10; repeat last wind -twice more; across center and pass yarn from left to right around spokes -No. 4 and No. 5, across center from right to left around No. 10 and No. -11; repeat last wind twice more, across center from left to right around -spokes No. 5 and No. 6, across center from right to left around No. 11 -and No. 12; repeat last wind twice more, across center from left to -right around spokes No. 6 and No. 7, across center from right to left -around No. 12 and No. 1; repeat last wind twice more. Bring yarn to 1″ -beyond center and cut. Do not remove from winder. - -CENTER: Thread tapestry needle and use double strand for sewing center. -Follow directions on page 3 for center, going completely around 3 times -in all. Fasten off securely. Make 200 daisies with A and sew centers -with B. Make 25 daisies with B and sew centers with A. - -CONNECT DAISIES: Follow directions for JOINING A (see page 3). Connect 5 -rows of A daisies 15 across with A. Next row, connect 5 A daisies with -A; then 5 daisies made with B for center and using B to connect them; -then 5 A daisies connected with A. Repeat the last row 4 times more. -Work 5 rows of A daisies connected with A. - -FINISHING: Block lightly. - - [Illustration: Pattern] - - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A B B B B B A A A A A - A A A A A B B B B B A A A A A - A A A A A B B B B B A A A A A - A A A A A B B B B B A A A A A - A A A A A B B B B B A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A - - - - - Daisy Trim Apron - - - Shown on page 21 - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Coats & Clark’s O.N.T. -“Speed-Cro-Sheen”, 100 yd ball, 5 spools Yellow (A) and 1 spool Hunter -Green (B). HERO No. C aluminum crochet hook and a tapestry needle. - -With A, ch 134 loosely. Row 1: Pick up a loop in 3rd ch from hook and -retain on hook, skip 1 ch, pick up a loop in next ch (3 loops on hook), -yo pull through 3 loops, ch 1, * pick up a loop in last ch worked in and -retain on hook, skip 1 ch, pick up a loop in next ch (3 loops on hook), -yo pull through 3 loops, ch 1 (1 pattern); repeat from * across, 66 -patterns. One extra ch on turn. Row 2: Pick up a loop in first ch and -retain on hook, pick up a loop in next st (3 loops on hook), yo pull -through 3 loops, ch 1, * pick up a loop in last st worked in and retain -on hook, skip 1 st, pull up a loop in next st (3 loops on hook), yo pull -through 3 loops on hook, ch 1; repeat from * across. One extra ch on -turn. Repeat row 2 for pattern st (should measure 21″ across in width). -Work even for 1½″ for lower border. Next row: Work 5 patterns for side -border as established, * ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st; repeat from * -to within last 5 patterns, work 5 patterns for side border as -established. Next row: Work 5 patterns for border as established, * ch -1, dc in next space; repeat from * across to last 5 patterns, work 5 -patterns for border as established. Work last row until 12½″ from beg. -Next row: Work 5 patterns for border as established, * dc in next space; -repeat from * to within last 5 patterns, work 5 patterns for border as -established. Work pattern st on all sts as for lower border for 1½″. -Fasten off. - -TIES: Make 2. With A, ch 14 loosely. Work even in pattern st as for -lower border for 12½″. Fasten off. - -POCKETS: Make 2. Make 18 daisies following directions on page 3, winding -petals with color B and sewing centers with color A. JOIN DAISIES: -Follow instructions for JOINING A (see page 3), using color B for -joining. Join 3 rows of daisies with 3 daisies across. Attach B at one -corner and working backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc in next -space; repeat from * around all sides, going twice in each corner st. -Fasten off. Block pieces lightly. Sew a pocket to each side as shown. -Sew on ties. - - [Illustration: Tablecloth] - - - - - MARDI GRAS BAG - - - Shown here and on back cover - - [Illustration: Handbags and snood] - -MATERIALS: HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. Spinnerin Mardi Gras, 45 -gram ball, 3 Brown and 1 White. HERO No. C aluminum crochet hook and -tapestry needle. HERO 7″ Bag Handle. Lining and buckram. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 28 daisies following instructions on page 3. Wind -first row of petals with white and second row with brown. Sew centers -with brown. Connect 6 rows of 4 daisies across with brown, following -instructions for JOINING A on page 3. Connect 1 row of 2 daisies to the -center 2 daisies on each end row. - -SIDE PIECES: Make 2. With C crochet hook and brown, ch 6. Row 1: Sc in -2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch, 5 sc. Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: Sc in each -st, picking up back loop only. Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 for 5 times -more. Continue in sc picking up back loop and increasing 1 st at each -end of every row until 29 sts on row (to inc—work 2 sc in one st). Work -even for 7 rows. Next row: Dec 1 st each end of row (to dec—work off 2 -sc as one sc). Repeat the last row once more. Fasten off. - -FINISHING: Starting at top corner, with brown, work 1 row of sc along -side and bottom edges. With brown, work 4 rows of sc along each top -edge. Using pieces as pattern, cut 2 linings and buckram making an -allowance for seams. Use a double buckram for flat bottom to make it -stiffer. With brown, sc side pieces to bag. Sew linings tog with buckram -in between and double buckram for bottom. Sew in lining. With lining -material sew a slot to each top edge and sew over bar of handle on each -side. - - - - - DAISY SNOOD - - - Shown here and on back cover - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 2 Red -and 1 White. HERO No. 0 steel crochet hook. 1 yd of tubular elastic. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 25 white daisies following directions on page 3. -Wind white yarn twice around each spoke and sew centers with red. - -SNOOD: Ch 85 loosely. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * ch 1, skip 1 ch, -1 dc in each of next 2 chs (1 pattern); repeat from * across, 28 -patterns. Ch 6 to turn. Should measure about 14″ across in width. Row 2: -* Skip 2 dc, dc in space under ch 1 of previous row, ch 2; repeat from * -across, end dc in end turning ch, 28 spaces. Ch 4 to turn. Row 3: Ch 4 -on turn is counted as first dc, dc in first space, * ch 1, 2 dc in next -space; repeat from * across. Ch 6 to turn. Repeat row 2 and 3 for 14″, -ending with row 3. Fasten off. - -FINISHING: Work 4 rnds of sc around all 4 edges of piece taking it in to -fit head size. Work 1 rnd of sc over tubular elastic. Tie ends of -elastic and fasten off. Sew on daisies as shown, placing 12 around sc -band and spacing the others all over as shown. - - - - - CRAZY DAISY HANDBAG - - - Shown here and on back cover - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. HERO Smart-Set Interchangeable Bag -Handle. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 2 oz. skein, 1 Royal Blue, 1 Turquoise -and 1 Olive Green. HERO No. F aluminum crochet hook and a yarn darning -needle. Two pieces lt. blue felt, 7½″ × 11-¼″ each. Two pieces dk. blue -Indian-Head for lining 7⅛″ × 11⅛″. Press-on non woven interfacing. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow general directions for winding daisies on page -3. TO SEW CENTERS: Insert darning needle under 2 petals and draw yarn -through tightly, * bring yarn back over the last one of the 2 petals, -insert yarn under this petal and next petal and draw through tightly; -repeat from * until you have completed 3 rnds of sts around center. Make -20 daisies in Royal blue with Turquoise centers. These daisies are shown -with the back st center as the right side. Make 20 daisies in Turquoise -with Royal Blue centers, however on the Turquoise daisies the side -facing you as you sew the center will be used as the right side so be -sure to work all ends in neatly. - -TO MAKE CIRCLE: With Olive Green, sc in end of petal (go through the 2 -loops of petal), * ch 2, sc in next petal; repeat from * around, ending -ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off. - -TO ASSEMBLE: Alternating the color of daisy, with Olive Green join each -daisy at one st with a sc (center it at the 6th and 12th petal) until 10 -daisies are joined. Make 1 more strip of 10 in the same color -arrangement and 2 more strips of 10 in the alternate color arrangement. -Join the 4 strips tog in the same manner, making sure to alternate color -of daisy. From wrong side, fold in half and join side daisies leaving -the upper 2 rows free to be tacked to lining at opening. With wrong side -facing, sew Indian-Head tog with ¼″ seams, rounding corners at bottom -and leaving 3½″ open at each side. Assemble felt in the same manner, -leaving 4¼″ open at top. Cut press-on material to fit and press on to -felt. Fold felt 1″ at top edge to wrong side and machine st in place. -With wrong sides facing, slip Indian-Head into felt and blind st in -place (lining slightly smaller than felt). Pull daisies over felt and -tack at top of side seams and top of bag. Slip bars of handle through -top bands and fasten ends. - - - - - CRAZY DAISY CARDIGAN - - - Shown on page 22 and back cover - -SIZES: Directions are for Small (size 8-10). Changes for Medium (size -12-14) and Large (size 16-18) are in parentheses. - -MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Wool and Shetland Wool, 2 oz. skein, -7 (8-9) Grey (A) and 2 (2-3) Ecru (B). HERO No. 5 straight knitting -needles and No. 6 circular knitting needle. No. 1 steel crochet hook. -Tapestry needle. 9 small button molds. - -GAUGE: 4 connected daisies—7½″. - -TO MAKE DAISIES: Turn knob to release spokes. With left thumb hold A at -center leaving end to extend at center for about 1″. With right hand, -pass yarn from left to right around spoke No. 1 at top, across center, -from right to left around spoke No. 2 directly opposite; wrap around -these spokes once more in the same manner. Bring yarn across center from -left to right around spoke No. 5 at right of first spoke wrapped, across -center from right to left around spoke No. 6 at left of 2nd spoke -wrapped, wrap around these 2 spokes once more. Bring yarn across center -from left to right around spoke No. 9, across center and from right to -left around spoke No. 10, wrap around these 2 spokes once more. Bring -yarn across center and cut about 1″ beyond center (you have been winding -around every other spoke). Continue with B in this manner wrapping twice -around 2 spokes exactly opposite then passing on to the next 2 free -spokes until all spokes are wrapped twice, ending with spoke No. 12—thus -wrapping with B the spokes that were skipped when you were winding with -A. Bring yarn across center and cut about 1″ beyond center. - - [Illustration: TO MAKE CENTER: See instructions to make centers on - page 3. Use color A for centers. Make 174 (186-214) daisies in this - manner.] - -TO CONNECT DAISIES: Follow directions given for Joining A on page 3 -using A yarn. Join daisies until there are 5 rows of 18 (20-23) daisies -for body of cardigan—2 fronts and back. Next row: Join 4 (5-6) daisies -for front, skip 1 daisy for underarm, join 8 (8-9) daisies for back, -skip 1 daisy for underarm, join 4 (5-6) daisies for other front. - -SLEEVES: Join 4 rows of 7 (7-8) daisies. Lower Cuff: With No. 6 needle -and right side facing, with A pick up and k 55 (57-59) sts across lower -edge of sleeve. Row 1: K 1, * p 1, k 1; repeat from * across. Row 2: P -1, * k 1, p 1; repeat from * across. Repeat these 2 rows for ribbing for -2″. Bind off loosely in ribbing. Join seam of sleeve the same as joining -daisies. Join another row of 6 (6-7) daisies across top of sleeve, -leaving 1 daisy free for underarm. Note: Circular needle is used as two -straight knitting needles. - -YOKE: Join last row of top edge of sleeve to top edges of last row of -fronts and back. With circular needle, A and right side facing, pick up -and k 41 (46-51) sts on right front; 58 (58-63) sts along top of sleeve; -85 (85-90) sts across top of back; 58 (58-63) sts across top of sleeve -and 41 (46-51) sts across top of left front, 283 (293-318) sts. Row 1: -Wrong side. * P 3, k 2; repeat from *, end p 3. Row 2: * K 3, p 2; -repeat from *, end k 3. Repeat these 2 rows for 1½″ (2″-2½″), ending -with row 1. Dec Row: * K 1, k 2 tog, p 2; repeat from *, end k 1, k 2 -tog. Continue in pattern as established for 1½″, ending on wrong side. -2nd Dec Row: K 2, p 2 tog; repeat from *, end k 2. Continue in pattern -as established for 1″, ending on wrong side. 3rd Dec Row: K 2 tog, p 1; -repeat from *, ending k 2 tog. Change to No. 5 needles and continue in -ribbing for 1″. Bind off in ribbing. - -LOWER BORDER: With No. 6 needle, A and right side facing, pick up and k -163 (175-187) sts along lower edge. Work in ribbing as for cuff of -sleeve for 4″. Bind off in ribbing. - -FINISHING: Block lightly. With A, work 1″ of sc along left front edge, -working a ch 1 to turn all rows. Last Row: Work backwards (counter -clockwise), sc in each sc along front edge. Fasten off. Mark position of -9 buttons evenly spaced, placing first 1″ from lower edge and last ½″ -below neck edge. Work right front border as for left front for ¾″. -Buttonhole Row: Opposite each marker for button, ch 3, skip 2 sts, sc in -next st. Next row: Work 2 sc under each ch-3 space. Complete as for left -front. Work 1 row of sc around neck, holding in slightly. Work 1 more -row around neck as for last row on left front edge. Fasten off. - -CROCHETED BUTTONS: Make 9. With B, ch 3 and join with a sl st to form a -ring. Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc. Rnd 3: 1 sc in each -sc. Rnd 4: Insert mold. * skip 1 sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * around -until mold is covered. Fasten off. Join underarms and sleeves to back -and front. - - [Illustration: Back cover: “Crazy Daisy” Boutique] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's "Crazy Daisy" Boutique, Vol. No. 5, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK "CRAZY DAISY" BOUTIQUE, VOL. 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