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diff --git a/old/62155-0.txt b/old/62155-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index fc5fd69..0000000 --- a/old/62155-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5821 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Travels from St. Josephs to -Oregon, by Riley Root - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Journal of Travels from St. Josephs to Oregon - with Observations of that Country, together with Some - Description of California, its Agricultural Interests, and - a Full Description of its Gold Mines. - -Author: Riley Root - -Release Date: May 17, 2020 [EBook #62155] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS FROM ST. JOSEPHS TO OREGON *** - - - - -Produced by WebRover, MWS, Stephen Hutcheson, The Internet -Archive (TIA) and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team -at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was produced from images -made available by the HathiTrust Digital Library.) - - - - - - - - - - JOURNAL OF TRAVELS - FROM - ST. JOSEPHS TO OREGON, - - - WITH - OBSERVATIONS OF THAT COUNTRY, - TOGETHER WITH - _SOME DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA_, - ITS AGRICULTURAL INTERESTS, - AND - A Full Description - OF - ITS GOLD MINES. - - - BY RILEY ROOT. - - - GALESBURG: - GAZETTEER AND INTELLIGENCER PRINTS. - 1850. - - - - - EXPLANATORY NOTE. - - -The Author of the present work has adopted a new method of punctuation, -and, in certain cases, of spelling. He discards entirely the colon and -the semi-colon. Modern readers passing along with great rapidity, and -the principal use of these points being to mark the length of time the -voice is to be suspended, the Author is of opinion that they may with -propriety disappear from our language. Accordingly he has adjusted the -following work to suit those views, and as the reader advances, his -attention will naturally be directed to that subject, by which means he -will be enabled to judge of the propriety or impropriety of this -adjustment of the pauses in the language. - - THE PRINTER - - - - - ADVERTISEMENT. - - -As the advantages for knowing the pronunciation of some of the words -that occur in the following work are limited amongst most eastern -readers, it may not be improper here to give some explanation by way of -change in their orthography. - -The name of the Willamette, a river in the west valley of Oregon, is -changd to Will-am-et, with the accent on the second syllable. A -tributary of the Willamet river, with the several names of Quality, -Tualiton, and Troliton, is more familiarly calld Twality. Also another, -which flows from Mt. Jefferson, by some calld Santa Anna, is more -properly calld San-ty-am. - -San or Saint Joaquin in California, is pronouncd Saint Wau-keen, with -the accent on the second syllable. Stanislaus, a tributary of the St. -Wau-keen, is often improperly calld Spanish Slough. Juba river, a -tributary of the Sacramento, is now calld Yu-bar river. The old name of -Rio de Plumas, is familiarly known by the name of Feather river. -Mereposa is divided into four syllables, with the half accent on Mer, -and the full accent on Po. The above definitions may in some degree, -help the reader to the proper pronunciation of some words as used in -California. - - - - - JOURNAL. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - -Journey from home—Trip down the Mississippi and up the Missouri River to - St. Josephs. - -I left home in Knox county, Illinois, the 3d day of April, 1848, for -Woodstock in Fulton county, a distance of about 20 miles, where I staid -one day with my eldest daughter. I then started for the Mississippi -river, to Nauvoo, a Mormon town, by the way of La Harp, a distance of -fifty miles, over which route most of the way to La Harp is as handsome -prairie as I have seen in the State. I visited the Temple at Nauvoo, -with the expectation of seeing a beautiful edifice, as the Mormons would -have it to appear, that the glory of the latter Temple is to exceed that -of the former. - -It is true that on approaching the Temple[1] the visitor beholds -something exquisite in its outward appearance, though not more so than -many other buildings in America, but on visiting its inner scenery, the -visitor is not arousd by any thing sublime, curious or tasteful. The -inner arrangements may be in accordance with their plans of order and -church government, yet the design and workmanship are of an ordinary -appearance. But the building is fast going to decay, and the town is -vacated of three fourths of its inhabitants. - - -[1]It has since been burnt. - - -From this place I passd down the river to Quincy, where I stopd with a -design to visit my youngest daughter of sixteen years of age, who is -attending school at the Mission Institute, about two miles east of -Quincy. The school at this place was establishd for the purpose of -promoting the cause of Christ by preparing youth for the missionary -field, though other scholars who do not wish to enter upon missionary -labors are sometimes admitted. - -From Quincy I went to St. Louis for the purpose of obtaining a boat to -go to St. Josephs on the Missouri river, where most of the emigrants -meet before leaving the United States for Oregon. On ascending the -Missouri river from its confluence with the Mississippi to Weston, a -town twenty-five miles by land below St. Josephs, no pleasant villages -are seen except Jefferson City, the capital of the State of Missouri. -This town shows something of the beauties of art, with a good levee for -the lading and unlading of goods. The state house is worthy of the most -notice of the traveler. It is large and elegant, and made of hewn stone. - -To the geologist the Missouri river presents a scene of speculation. Its -waters are always muddy, and still more so at high stages of the river. -To the indifferent observer it may appear that the raw edges of its -banks, by their crumbling off at times of high water, furnish material -for its turbid appearance at all times. It is true that in times of high -water its muddy look is greatly increased, but this is not all that is -to be considered. The river has but small depth of water most of the -time, and this passes over an argilaceous bottom, with sufficient force -to keep it constantly agitated. There is also a mixture of exceedingly -fine sand spread over its bottom, and the whole together is constantly -agitated by the motion of its waters. The bed of the stream from its -union with the Mississippi to St. Josephs, is at least one hundred feet -below the high prairie of the country around it. The question naturally -arises as to the length of time required to excavate such a channel -through a country so vast in extent as the Missouri traverses with all -its tributaries, considering the amount of alluvium carried outward into -the ocean from age to age, whilst the bed of the river is supplied in -part from the high countries of its tributaries, and thus rendering the -work of degradation exceedingly slow. Yet notwithstanding the amount of -soil received from year to year from above, that river carries outward -into the ocean more than it receives, and thereby causes a lowering of -its bed, though not visible for ages, yet gradually and slowly has it -worn away the earth to its present condition. The geologist has no -certain means of ascertaining with certainty the amount of degradation -from year to year, and must leave the subject, sublime as it is, to the -wild fancies of imagination. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - -St. Josephs—The Indian country lying west of the River—Formation of the - Prairie—Scouring material of the Soil—Its general appearance as - far west as the South Pass, or dividing ridge. - -St. Josephs is a new town on the Missouri river, in latitude of about 34 -deg. 45 min. north, with about 1800 inhabitants, which five years ago -was a field of hemp. The town has 18 stores, 3 drug stores, 9 groceries, -6 tailor shops, 8 blacksmith shops, 2 tin shops, 3 taverns, 3 boarding -houses, 1 steam and 1 water flouring mill, and 2 steam saw mills. Among -its inhabitants are 15 lawyers, 11 doctors, 2 silversmiths and 2 -gunsmiths. - -The town is mostly located on a plat of ground with sufficient descent -for drainage, contiguous to the bluffs on the north, on which it is -partly built. On this bluff stands the court house of Buchanan county, -where the spectator can overlook the town. - -The river from this point is seen but a short distance either up or -down, in consequence of its meandering course, so that it is soon lost -sight of behind the bluffs. - -I left St. Josephs for the Indian country lying west of the Missouri -river, through which I was to pass on my way to Oregon, with a train of -emigrants for that place, on the 25th of April, 1848, with a view of -reaching Oregon before the inclemencies of winter should overtake me, -under as favorable auspices as the nature of the case would allow. - -The Indian country is a wild, uncultivated tract, and almost destitute -of inhabitants. It has, however, a few scattering tribes of Indians, -though few indeed and far between. This country is what is calld a -prairie country or natural meadow, with very little timber except along -the water-courses. It is a continuation of the great valley of the -Mississippi westward along the tributaries to the Rocky mountains, where -the waters of the continent divide and run westward into the Pacific -ocean. - -A prairie may be an alluvial country, and it may be tertiary. The one -here spoken of is alluvial. At a remote period, the timber and loose -material of the country, as well as all prairie districts, were fired by -its inhabitants or by lightning, and this continued for ages will -destroy the timber and leave its soil to be clothd only by the grasses, -an inferior but oftentimes resplendent robe. - -The traveler soon after leaving St. Josephs, westward sees prairie in -all stages of formation, from the dense forest to an entire prairie. -This, with the dense forests of young timber eastward, where the white -man has forbidden the practice of firing prairies, seems to be a -convincing proof of the aforementioned mode of prairie formation. - -It has been noticed in the State of Illinois, and some other places, -where the plowman is permitted to glide his plow smoothly over the -beautiful landscape, that there is an exceedingly fine scouring material -lying near the surface of the soil, so that steel mold boards, on a very -short use of them, are seen to present a polishd surface, on drawing -them from the soil.—Ages of constant burning of the prairie grasses must -necessarily produce a great amount of very fine coal dust and ashes, -which, by the beating rains from year to year, would cause it to mingle -with the earth to the depth of several inches. Such is the probable -cause of the scouring material of these plains. - -On passing over the country from St. Josephs to the dividing ridge of -the continent, along the emigrant route to Oregon, the traveler -accustomd only to fertile districts, is greatly surprised at finding so -great a portion of the continent an almost barren waste. From St. -Josephs to the Platt river, a distance of 250 miles, is most of the way -a country of soil and fertility. - -On arriving at the Platt river, a beautifully flat country presents -itself, where nature, it would seem, has but an easy task to burden the -ground with excessive vegetation, but behold a country of extensive -bottom lands, of feeble soil much of the way, and still more feeble at -the distance, among the bluffs and rolling country. - -Soon after our arrival at Platt, one day while sitting on its banks -watching our cattle, I could but reflect on the situation of the -country, the emigrant and his journey to Oregon, which I have here -expressd in the following form. - - One evening at twilight, whilst sitting to view, - On the banks of the Platt, to me ’twas quite new, - Nor sadden or lonely, as one in despair - Sees the beasts of the forest just ’mergd from their lair, - But cheerful and tranquil, I cast my eyes o’er - The wide-spreading Platt, where I ne’er roamd before. - Its banks are all plat, and its islands are flat, - Its waters are tranquil, and turbid at that. - Protrusion of sandbars are seen all along, - To hinder the boatman—here’s nought of his song. - Still anxious for knowledge, I turnd me around. - And saw at short distance what coverd the ground. - ’Twere wagons, full many, an Oregon train, - Who’d left their lovd homes, ne’er to see them again. - If you ask what their hearts speak whilst moving along, - I fear they will mingle a tear with their song, - Whilst telling the story of wandering so far, - With their dear earthly all in their pockets and car. - The parent is anxious for his loving child, - The dame is more careless, less cautious and mild, - The lad cares for little, if father is near, - Of wars or of bloodshed—he’ll shrink to the rear. - Then who shall watch over, and daily provide - For this onward band, which so near are allid? - ’Tis He who makes water spring out of the rock, - Abundance shall follow—He cares for His flock. - Then onward, brave pilgrims, your Canaan is near, - You’ll soon cross the Jordan [cascades] with hearts full of cheer. - -On advancing up the Platt a distance of about 445 miles to Sweet Water, -one of its tributaries, and near to the dividing point, the country -becomes more barren all around, being more within that portion of the -continent where the sun’s influences are not hindered by rains, or even -dews, for a great portion of the year. Here, no soil is formd by the -decomposition of vegetable or animal matter, for none exists with which -to make soil except the wild sage and a few other useless shrubs. - -Few animals of any kind dwell here, for want of the means of sustaining -life. It may justly be calld a desert country. It should, however, be -remarkd that within the distance from Platt to Sweet Water, nearly all -the present buffalo range is comprisd, and if the country is a barren -waste, how do they receive their support? Along the bottom lands of the -Platt and its tributaries, are seen occasional tracts coverd with grass, -but these are few compard with the great extent of country over which -the buffalo is obligd to ramble for his support. At one season of the -year he is seen on Platt and at another on Sweet Water, a distance of -more than four hundred miles in extent. - -Along the country through which the Sweet Water flows, is seen a range -of mountains, calld the Sweet Water range, coverd mostly with a dense -forest. On our right are ranges of granite rock of less hight, -occasionally divided by intervening valleys. These rocks are naked, -having no vegetation upon them except in some of their crevices, where a -few vegetables have found a scanty foothold. Within 50 miles of the -dividing ridge, these ranges of mountains lower down to an undulating -plain, without soil or vegetation, except wild sage, so common on these -deserts. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - -The Indians east of the Rocky Mountains, their migratory habits, &c.—The - American Fur Company and its shipments—Fort Larimie and - location—Saline quality in the earth and the waters of Platt and - its tributaries—Independence rock—Daring deed of one of our - company. - -Twenty-five miles west of St. Josephs, on the emigrant route, is a -school for Indians, calld Iowa and Sack Mission Boarding School. It is -conducted by a Mr. S. M. Ervin and H. W. Hamilton. During our stay of -two or three days at that place, I visited Mr. Ervin at his school-house -and dwelling, with a pleasing reception as a stranger, and was shown to -the several apartments of the house. It is a building 106 feet in length -by about 40 in width, with a basement for cooking and dining-rooms. The -other two stories are occupied as school-room, lodging-rooms and -dwelling for the superintendent, and in one apartment is a library and -printing press. Mr. Ervin pointed me to his scholars, at this time -numbering only 26, consisting mostly of girls from ten to twelve years -of age, dressd in American costume. These appeard well, and seemd to be -a proof that the wild man of the desert is susceptible of cultivation. -Unhappily, however, I was informd by a person living there, it is with -difficulty youth are persuaded to tarry long enough at the school to -acquire any valuable education. - -Whilst staying at that place, Mr. Ervin came into our camp and preachd a -sermon to the emigrants, and whilst there he publicly declard that we -should pass no nation of Indians on our route to Oregon more vicious -than those of that place. We however met with no difficulty nor lost any -property by them, though one of them had the boldness to say to one of -the emigrants— - -“Me good to steal horses!” - -To which the emigrant replied— - -“You must not steal our horses.” - -The Indian still farther announced— - -“Ah, me good to steal horse.” - -The Indians at this place receive a very good support in consequence of -the large amount of land under cultivation by the care and -superintendence of the mission. - -Those Indians located at Grand Island, calld the Pawnee tribe, are at -present a feeble race, liable to be driven about by the Sioux at all -times. They are poor, and under the necessity of stealing what buffalo -meat and robes they need for their support, and whenever they are -discoverd by a band of Sioux rangers, they are obligd to flee for their -safety to some other place. Their pressing necessity for food and -clothing makes them more inclind to trouble the emigrant trains than -they otherwise would, and whenever they meet with a train that is feeble -in numbers, they fall on them and plunder their food and clothing. - -The day before we arrivd at Grand Island, a band of Sioux rangers -discoverd some Pawnees on the banks of the Platt, drying and preparing -buffalo meat for their winter’s stock of provisions. They enterd their -camp and drove them away so suddenly, that in their wild flight they -were obligd to throw away robes and other property, which was strewd -along the road 15 or 20 miles’ distance. By this circumstance we passd -the Pawnees without seeing an individual Indian. - -The Sioux are probably the strongest nation east of the South Pass. They -range from Fort Larimie eastward to the Missouri river. Near Ash Hollow -on the Platt, we passd two bands of them not many miles distant from -each other, consisting of 40 or 50 lodges in each. Their lodges are made -by setting up small poles in a conical form and covering them with -buffalo skins. Some of them are quite large, requiring from 10 to 15 -buffalo skins to inclose them. In the center of these their fires are -built. The smoke issues at the top of this conical-shapd edifice, -through which a small opening is left for that purpose. Around these -fires whilst in their lodges, the Indians sit or recline upon the -ground, without seats of any kind, or any thing at all, except sometimes -flag matresses or the pelts of some animals. - -When they wish to prepare for the reception of company of a public -nature, they form a semi-circle on the ground with their chiefs or heads -of bands in the center of the arch of the half-circle, which renders -them conspicuous to all. On our approach to the first of these bands, we -found them seated in a semi-circular form, with their two chiefs, -Whirlwind and Badwoon, in the center of this arch, with the American -flag erected within and in front of the chiefs, ready to receive us, -having been apprisd of our coming several days beforehand by an Indian -trader by the name of Richards, who had traveld with us much of the way -from St. Josephs to that place. He having gone ahead, arrivd at the band -several days before us, informing them that we were coming and advising -them to peace, with the expectation of receiving a gift from us as -indicative of friendship. Accordingly they spread robes and blankets on -the ground within the half-circle, upon which the emigrants bestowd -their gifts of flour, corn meal, beans, bacon, and every such thing, as -they pleasd to give. While in the act of doing this, occasional -acclamations were heard from the red audience, especially when a larger -panful of flour than common was presented. - -After our company had ceasd to present their gifts, two or three men -started from the circle to make a distribution of the gift, which was -bestowd upon the heads of families. This was an amusing sight. Some -would present a dish to receive their gift, others the corner of a -blanket, and others again would hold out the skirt of an old filthy coat -to receive a little flour. Presently all receivd their several gifts, -and so we parted in friendship. - -The night previous to our arrival at this band, we had encampd about 2 -miles distant, though in sight of their lodges. In the morning, after -our teams were ready for starting, our captain orderd the train to keep -close together, with their guns where they could lay their hands on them -at a moment’s warning, if necessary, and no one should speak to an -Indian except himself till we should pass the reach of danger, as there -was no possible way to pass this band excepting through their camp, and -as the advice of former emigrants was to guard against the treachery of -the Indians. Unfortunately for me, as some would think, I had neither -gun, pistol nor bowie-knife with me, but the young man with whom I -traveld, having a spare pistol presented it to me, saying— - -“Here, take this, and the captain says you must go to his wagon and get -a hatchet, so that you may defend yourself and others.” - -I told him as we had about 2 miles to travel before we should come to -them, and as I had no convenient way of carrying it, except in my hand, -he had better carry it till we arrivd there, and then I would take it. -But this was the last I saw of the pistol at that place. When our teams -arrivd at the camp, we all halted, and one man ran one way and another -man another way, talking and trading with the Indians, and preparing to -give them presents. - -These bands migrate with the roaming buffalo, for on him depends their -support. At this time they were here, drying buffalo meat for their -winter supply, and also preparing robes for sale, though their station -is most of the time at Fort Larimie. The flesh of the buffalo is cut -into thin pieces and dried in the sun without salt, and this is their -principal food. They have no flour except what little they procure of -the emigrants while passing to Oregon. In this waste country the plow is -not seen to greet the soil, and the poor Indian has nought for his -support but what nature alone provides. These Indians are better dressd, -and may be considerd more wealthy, if their property can be calld -wealth, than Indians west of the Rocky Mountains. - -The American Fur Company, which has its posts of trade located at -different points east of the Rocky Mountains, are at present in a -somewhat prosperous state. I was informd by the Principal at Fort -Larimie, that the company shipd from Fort Pier, a point on a tributary -of the Missouri river, the year 1847, more than 80,000 buffalo robes, -between 11,000 and 12,000 of which were obtaind at Fort Larimie, besides -a great amount of other peltry. But as the country is gradually drying -up and buffalo becoming less abundant, this source of profit will at -length fail. - -Fort Larimie is located at Larimie fork of Platt river, a mile or two -above its confluence with that river. There is nothing interesting about -the fort. It is built of sun-dried bricks, with timbers sufficient to -support the bricks and form the doors and windows, and done in the -coarsest manner. Within this wall, which is about 12 or 14 feet high, -are the dwellings and other necessary rooms for the accommodation of the -fort. Within this area, also, stands a large rude press, for pressing -robes and peltry for market. In another apartment is a yard for horses -and cattle. What is most attractive is, within these dwellings are seen -the white man and the rusty-looking Indian woman, living lovingly -together, whilst the little papooses are playing together as happily. -Without these mud walls are seen no appendages. The eye can rest on -nothing all around but a dreary waste, an uncultivated country. - -On advancing up the Platt and its tributary, Sweet Water river, the -traveler’s attention is attracted by a kind of salt he occasionally sees -upon the ground along the road, which by examining he finds to possess -strong alkaline properties. The waters of the Platt and Sweet Water -rivers are also impregnated so strongly that whenever the rivers are so -low as to disclose the sand-bars long enough for them to dry upon their -surfaces, this salt is seen abundantly upon them. - -A few miles east of Independence rock, along our route, we saw several -ponds, or small lakes, with an incrustation of this salt several inches -thick. These places the emigrants call saleratus lakes, from the known -fact that it has the property of raising bread. - -Advancing a few miles, we come to Independence rock.—This rock is hardly -worthy of notice, except for the many inscriptions made upon it by -emigrants. It is a coarse granite rock about 100 feet high, covering -about 20 acres of ground, standing alone and near enough to our road to -read its inscriptions on passing it. - -About 4 miles west of Independence rock, the Sweet Water passes through -a gap of precipitous rocks 300 feet high, where is a cascade of short -distance. This gap is narrow and formd along its sides with several -crevices of circular and chimney shape, from top to bottom. In one of -these a man of our company, by the name of Brock, descended. Whilst the -train was slowly passing along, several men of our company left the -train for the purpose of passing through this gap along the sides of the -waterfall. On their approach at this place, they stood viewing the -scenery around, whilst one of them, looking up, saw a man in the act of -descending through one of these frightful openings, at a distance of -more than 200 feet above their heads. Mr. Brock had passd around to the -top of the rocks alone, to view the scenery, and finding one of these -places, attempted a descent. He began the descent without knowing that -any human being stood to witness his hazardous undertaking. This opening -was so wide in some places that he could with difficulty reach from one -side to the other without losing his perpendicular position, and -oftentimes he was obligd to hold on to the rocks by his fingers, where -they projected not more than an inch. In this alarming situation of Mr. -Brock, his comrades below stood looking at him, without daring to speak, -with intense anxiety for his safety, till he had accomplishd his entire -descent. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - -Remarks of the writer relative to his Journal en route to Oregon—The - Journal. - -As I had at one time thought of making a separate history of my every -day’s travels from St. Josephs to Oregon city, in pamphlet form, in -order to benefit those who might desire to have a knowledge of the route -and its several distances from place to place, at little cost, I -determined to keep as accurate an account of the distances I traveld -every day, together with such remarks in a condensed form as might be -deemd necessary to guide the traveler to Oregon, as the circumstances of -the case would admit. I therefore commencd my reckoning of distances -from day to day by the rotation of a wagon-wheel, at St. Josephs, and -kept it up unceasingly till I arrivd at Oregon city. But finding this -mode of writing somewhat inconvenient, and thinking, likewise, that the -history of my travels might not be altogether uninteresting, although at -somewhat more cost, I have concluded to insert them in this place with -my journal of travels and such incidents as may occur in my absence from -home. - - * * * * * * * * - -On the 25th of April, 1848, I crossd the Missouri river at St Josephs -into the Indian territory, with several wagons of emigrants, who -intended to travel out a short distance and organize for the route. This -day we have traveld as far as the bluffs of the river, a distance of 5 -miles, and encampd for the night.—The next day we pursued our journey as -far as Musketoe creek, a distance of 8 miles, where we encampd. Next -day, Friday, 27th, we organizd into a company of 15 or 20 wagons, with -such regulations as we deemd necessary for our safety through the Indian -country, and tarried there for the night. - -_Saturday, April 28_, we proceeded on our journey a distance of 12 -miles, to the Ioway Mission Boarding-School. - - 25 - -_The 29th and 30th of April_, we tarried at the mission. - -_Monday, May 1_, we traveld 15 miles. - -_Tuesday, May 2_—20 miles. - -_Wednesday, May 3_—15 miles, to Nemahaw creek. - -_Thursday, May 4_, we staid at the same place. - -_Friday, May 5_—13 miles over a very crooked road. - -_Saturday, May 6_—20 miles. - - 108 - -_Sunday, May 7_—14 miles to camp, 4 miles to Blue creek, and 10 more to -camp. - -_Monday, May 8_—20 miles to Wyatt, fork of Blue. - -_Tuesday, 9th_—14 miles to Walnut creek, or Sandy. - -_Wednesday, 10th_—18 miles, at Little Fork of L. Sandy. - - 174 - -_Thursday, 11th_—11 miles, at Blue creek. - -_Friday, 12th_—12 miles, yet at Blue. - -_Saturday, 13th_—9 miles, still on Blue creek. - - 206 - -_Sunday, 14th_—10 miles. Here on Blue our company killd a buffalo, for -the first. - -_Monday, 15th_—12 miles to camp on a small fork of Blue. Feed has not -yet been sufficient to give our cattle a full supply. At this place a -few wagons, which had been traveling behind us, came up and joind our -party, making in all about thirty wagons. - -_Tuesday, 16th_—28 miles to camp. Twenty brought us to Platt river, and -8 more to camp on banks of Platt river. - - 256 - -_Wednesday, 17th_—22 miles up the south side of Platt. - -_Thursday, 18th_—15 miles to City du Chien, at Plumb creek. Here is the -first saline appearance we saw on the ground. - -_Friday, 19th_—Staid at the same place. - - 293 - -_Saturday, 20th_—18 miles to camp on Platt river. Wood and pasturage -scarce. - -_Sunday, 21st_—25 miles. Little grass. - -_Monday, 22d_—25 miles along under the bluffs of the river to camp. No -wood here, except a few willows, for cooking. It raind all this day, and -all the night following. - - 361 - -_Tuesday, 23d_—The severe storm of the previous night drove our cattle a -considerable distance to the bluffs, by which means we did not get them -all till three o’clock. We traveld only two miles to-day. - -_Wednesday, 24th_—12 miles to the crossing of South Fork of Platt. The -confluence of the two streams is about 18 miles below the crossing. The -intermediate high ridge begins about two miles below the crossing, where -probably was once their confluence. This fork at this place is about -half a mile wide, and the quicksands gave way so rapidly under our -cattle’s feet, that we found it necessary to travel quickly over it, for -fear of sinking deeply into it. By my reckoning here, the distance from -St. Josephs to the crossing is 375 miles. After we crossd the river, we -traveld five miles up the north side of the river and encampd for the -night without any wood for cooking our food, except a few small willows. - - 380 - -_Thursday, 25th_—18 miles to camp, one mile and a half west of where the -bluffs come to the river. - -_Friday, 26th_—22 miles to camp, one mile and a half west of where the -old road crosses over to the North Fork of Platt. Grass good, the best -we have had. No wood. - - 420 - -_Saturday, 27th_—22 miles to camp on the North Fork of Platt river. -Eighteen miles of the route was over a beautifully undulating prairie. -Rest of the way, about two miles down into Ash Hollow, to North Platt, -rugged, and even dangerous for wagons to pass. Four miles up the river -brought us to camp, where we had no wood except what we carried from Ash -Hollow. - - 442 - -_Sunday, 28th_—11 miles up Platt river, over a sandy road, and passd a -village of Sioux Indians. - - 453 - -_Monday, 29th_—17 miles to-day. Sandy road, no wood. Burnt buffalo -excrement for cooking. - -_Tuesday, 30th_—13 miles to camp on Platt. Six miles south of this camp -stands Babel towr. It is a precipitous bluff of clay, containing lime -enough to give some degree of hardness to it, 600 feet above the bed of -the creek that passes near its base on the south side of it. Near to -this stands another, nearly equal in hight, but inferior in size. - -_Wednesday, 31st_—21 miles to camp on Platt. 14 to Chimney rock, and 7 -more to camp. Chimney rock is of the same material as Babel towr, and is -fast crumbling down. - - 504 - -_June 1st_—34 miles to camp on Horse-Shoe creek, 8 miles to where the -road leaves the river and passes into Romantic valley, where the bluffs -on the sides of the valley resemble distant cities. At the west end of -this valley, the bluffs are calld Scot’s bluffs, from the circumstance -of a man’s having died there by that name. At this place is a spring -where emigrants may camp, though the grass is not very abundant. At this -place we noond, and passd over the bluffs onward, having a good road to -Horse creek, where we campd for the night. From Scot’s bluffs, Larimie -peak is first seen. - - 538 - -_2d_—15 miles through sand-hills a considerable part of the way, near to -Platt, where little grass grows, except wild wormwood and prickly pear. -Encampd with plenty of wood for fuel. - -_3d_—17 miles, most of the way over a good road, to camp, 1 mile west of -Fort Larimie, on Larimie’s fork of Platt river. - - 570 - -_4th, 5th and 6th_—Staid at the same place, and shod several oxen, which -had become lame by traveling. However, as the road some of the way after -that, provd worse than any we had passd, and our oxen not becoming lame -by traveling over it, we concluded that their lameness must be -attributed in part to the alkali over which they so frequently passd. -The fort has a blacksmith shop and some few tools, for the use of which -our company paid 7½ dollars for one day and a half. - -_7th_—Left Larimie fork about noon, and passd over the bluffs 2 miles to -Platt river. From thence we passd on about 4 miles farther and encampd, -with plenty of flood wood, of yellow pine and cedar. During the night, -it was so cold as to produce ice in our cooking vessels. About 4 miles -farther on, is Black Hills Gap, where the river passes through high, -precipitous rocks. At this place, also, the Black hills commence. - -_June 8th_—22 miles through the Black hills. Encampd at a spring of the -best water west of St. Josephs, near to Platt. Feed very scarce. - -_9th_—20 miles, over a tolerably good road. The waysides are bordered -with wild sage. Occasionally we saw the river Encampd on it at night, -with but little grass for our cattle. This night, the weather was not -very cold. - -_10th_—17 miles. Left Platt early in the morning, and pursued our way -through the Black hills, nearly all the forenoon, in a southerly -direction towards Larimie peak. Road to-day quite smooth. The country -around is almost destitute of vegetation, except the wild sage. Encampd -on Big Timber creek. - - 635 - -_11th_—18 miles through the Black hills. Road tolerably good most of the -way. Encampd on Mike’s Head creek. Have not seen Platt to-day. Before -noon we lost sight of Larimie peak, among the hills. - -_12th_—16 miles to camp on Deer creek, near to Platt. Twelve miles -brought us to Platt, and 4 more to our camp. At this place we had a -plenty of wood, good water and grass for our stock. About noon, we left -the Black hills on the north. South of us they are seen stretching along -towards the south-west, gradually receding from us. - - 669 - -_13th_—16 miles. Encampd on Platt with plenty of wood. Feed scarce. The -wood through this part of the route is cottonwood, and found only -bordering the stream. - -_14th_—Staid at the same place, on account of its being exceedingly -windy. - -_15th_—5 miles to Platt crossing. - - 690 - -At this place the river is about 40 rods wide, and has considerable -current. The Mormons from Salt Lake had arrivd a few days previous, and -prepard a raft for crossing. - -_16th_—Crossd the Platt, traveld up the north side of it 2 miles, and -encampd. - -_17th_—30 miles. Encampd 3 miles east of the Willow spring. About 3 -miles east of camp is a spring or two, the alkaline properties of which -are strong enough in dry seasons to kill cattle, if allowd to drink -freely. I was informd that the Mormons the last year lost more than 50 -cattle at this place, by drinking the water of these springs. Five miles -of the morning route was along the Platt, to a place calld Red Butes, -from their being tingd with iron ore, as are many others through the -Black Hill country. At these butes the Black hills terminate, and the -road leaves the Platt and passes over to Sweet Water river. - -_18th_—7 miles over a hilly though smooth road to camp, at a small clear -spring, though somewhat saline. No wood, burnt buffalo excrement. - - 729 - -_19th_—18 miles, 14 to Sweet Water river, 2 miles to Independence rock, -and 2 farther to camp. Grass and water, no wood. To-day over a level but -mostly sandy road. The country before us and on our left, at a distance, -while traveling along, appeard more serrated, but on advancing, the -illusion vanishes, and the hills mostly appear only isolated granite -rocks of moderate hight, with large intervening valleys. - - 747 - -_20th_—14 miles to camp on Sweet Water river. Grass, no wood. After -traveling 2 miles in the morning, we came to a kanion, where the river -passes through a precipitous ledge of rocks, 300 feet high. The water at -this place falls over the ragged rocks, which at some distant time had -fallen into the stream from above and formd a cascade. To-day, on our -left traverses the Sweet Water range of mountains, whilst on our right -are ranges of less hight, divided occasionally by intervening valleys. - -_21st_—Staid at the same place. - - 761 - -_22d_—12 miles over a sandy road to camp on Sweet Water. Good grass, no -wood. Frost and ice during the night. - -_23d_—14 miles over a sandy road. Grass, no wood. About 3 o’clock, came -in full view of the Rocky mountains. Ice formd in our cooking vessels -during the night. - - 787 - -_24th_—17 miles over an uneven, sandy road, to camp, on the Sweet Water -river. Here the country is a barren waste, except along the river, where -a little grass is found. Back from the river, nothing grows but wild -sage. At this place, the water of the river is clear. Previous to this, -the waters, like those of Platt, have been turbid. - - 804 - -_25th_—9 miles over a hilly and gravelly road to camp, where is another -kanion of the river. - -_26th_—Left the river this morning, and traveld 17 miles over a very -hilly road of coarse, sharp gravel stones, and in some places the rocks -protrude so as to strain wagons in crossing them. In viewing the country -from some of the highest hills in this place, it appears very broken all -around. Passd two or three places that would do for camps for small -parties. Encampd on a fork of Sweet Water, just above its junction. - - 830 - -_27th_—18 miles. Traveld 4 miles, and crossd the Sweet Water river. Here -we left it, to see it no more. About 9 miles farther, brought us to the -South pass or dividing ridge. - - 843 - -South of the culminating point, at a little distance, stands a solitary -high hill, which some call Table rock. On the right, about 12 or 15 -miles, are the Wind River peaks, coverd in some parts with snow. Traveld -5 miles farther and encampd on Pacific springs, calld so from the fact -that their waters run westwardly into the Pacific ocean. Some grass, no -wood. - -_28th_—19 miles to Little Sandy creek, a fine stream, of sufficient -amount of water to carry 4 run of mill stones. We passd over an entire -desert, to-day. There is no possible encampment between Pacific springs -and this place, and here is no grass, except what borders the stream, a -few rods wide on each side of it. - - 867 - -_29th_—Six miles to Great Sandy creek, over a barren clay road. Fine -stream. Little grass, no wood except a few willows. This stream is a -branch of the California Colorado river. This is Greenwood’s cut-off, -which begins a little east of this river, between the two Sandys. The -old road is the one leading to Bridger’s fort. It is also the one the -Mormons took, when they emigrated to Salt Lake. From Big Sandy creek, -the place of our nooning, we traveld about 2 miles, to the top of a high -point of ground, where stands Colepit rock, a mound 20 or 30 feet high, -and perhaps 100 feet around, composd mostly of clay. On the top of this -rock, the country can be viewd to a great distance around. - -Advancing 8 miles farther, the country appears a level plain all around -as far as the eye can reach, except on the north, where the Wind River -range stretches far to the north-west. The rest of the day and the -following night, we traveld about 15 miles, to a deep valley, dangerous -to go down at night. - - 898 - -It may here be remarkd, that it would be safe to remain at Big Sandy -creek till 4 or 4½ o’clock in the afternoon, in order that daylight may -appear before arriving at this valley, as it seems necessary to travel -part of the distance from Big Sandy to Green river in the night, there -being no water nor grass on the way from Big Sandy to Green river, a -distance of 44 miles. - -_30th_—19 miles to Green river. After having passd from Sandy to Green -river, over a sage plain, destitute of water and grass for our cattle, -with four deep and dangerous valleys to descend into on our way, our -hearts were gladdend that we were enabld to slake the thirst of our -famishing cattle. Here, also, as much of the way past, were several -springs issuing from the banks of the river, containing so much alkali -as to render them unpleasant to drink. This crossing of Green river is -half way from St. Josephs to Oregon city, being 917 miles. - -_July 1st_—Staid at the crossing. - - 917 - -_2d_—9 miles to camp on Salmon Trout branch, 6 or 8 miles above its -union with Green river. We gaind but little towards Oregon, to-day, the -road being very circuitous and hilly, part of the way. - -_3d_—16 miles over a very hilly road. 10 miles to nooning, where is a -tolerably good camp for a small party, 6 miles farther to camp. No wood, -little grass, no water except a small spring. - - 942 - -_4th_—10 miles, over a very hilly and stony road, to Ham’s fork of Green -river. Some grass, no wood but willows. Here were a few Indian lodges of -the Snake tribe. - - 952 - -_5th_—14 miles over a very hilly road, and part of it very dangerous to -pass. No wood at camp, and but little grass. - -_6th_—Frost in camp, this morning. To-day, we traveld 18 miles and -encampd on Bear river, 4 miles west of Smith fork. The hills around us -are quite barren. Bear river has a little grass in some places along its -bottoms. It is a considerable stream, though not more than three fourths -the water that Green river has at the crossing. - -_7th_—11 miles to camp on Thomas’ fork of Bear river, about 5 miles -above its confluence, by a circuitous route. No wood but willows. - -_8th_—13½ miles over steep mountains, destitute of soil and vegetation, -except weeds, to camp on Bear river, where the bottom furnishes a little -grass. South of us at a small distance, in a large bottom, is Bear lake, -the outlet of which unites with Bear river, a little below camp. The -mountains, viewd from camp, seem to form a triangle. East, comes in Bear -river. A little east of south, is a long gap in the mountains, where -their waters contribute to Bear lake. A little west of north, the valley -stretches far away down Bear river. - -_9th_—Staid at the same place, and attended the burial of a young man of -our company. To-day, also, are 14 sick persons in our company. - - 1008 - -_10th_—25 miles to camp on Bear river. Passd several fine rills from the -mountains, to-day. A very good road down Bear River bottom. The bottom -and mountain lands, to-day, assume a more verdant appearance, though the -verdure consists mostly of useless shrubs and weeds, except on the -skirts of some of the peaks, where they are clothd with timber -sparingly. From this camp, snow is seen on the Bear River mountains. - -_11th_—10 miles to Soda springs, and 1 farther to camp, making 11 miles. -Have traveld over volcanic rocks, to-day, the first I have seen on our -route. Near to camp and north of it, near the base of the mountain, are -three small craters, apparently, of extinct volcanoes. They may, -however, be the craters of some of those silent springs. - -_12th_—23½ miles to the head waters of Portneuf, a tributary of Snake -river. It runs in a very circuitous manner. - - 1067½ - -_13th_—21 miles, over a mountainous road, to camp. Little grass, no wood -but willows. - -_14th_—16 miles to camp, about 4 miles east of Fort Hall in a large -plain, coverd over a considerable portion of it with a heavy growth of -wild sage. This plain is very extensive, reaching from north to south, -probably nearly 100 miles. The Sheep mountain and three butes are seen -from the fort, a considerable distance to the north of it, rising -abruptly from the plain. To the east, south and south-west, mountains -are seen from the fort, serrating the horizon. The rest of the horizon -around presents nearly an unbroken expanse. This plain is waterd with -several springs and streams of considerable size, some of them rising -from the level plain and passing on to join the waters of the Snake or -Lewis river. The Snake is a fine river, rising in the Wind River -mountains, north of Fort Hall, and passing near to it in a southerly -direction, where it is joind by the Portneuf about 9 miles below the -fort, with other tributaries along the plain. Thence, bending its course -westwardly for more than 100 miles, after which its course is northward -till it falls into the Columbia river. - - 1104½ - -_15th_—4 miles to Fort Hall, and 2 miles farther to camp, on Portneuf -creek. - - 1110½ - -_16th_—7 miles to Portneuf crossing, about 25 rods above its confluence -with Snake river. At this place, and also below, on Snake river, I -gatherd a great quantity of red, yellow and blue currants, the stalks of -which grew, in some places, from 10 to 14 feet high. - - 1117½ - -_17th_—12½ miles to camp, at some springs near Snake river. After -leaving Portneuf crossing, we passd a mile down Snake River bottom, and -came to a slough, bad to cross. Passd about half a mile farther, and -came to another bad crossing of a small stream. Thence, down the bottom -about 2 miles, to a considerable stream, whose banks were steep and its -passage difficult. Thence, about half a mile, to where the road ascends -the first terrace above the river bottom. The river bottom along this -day’s route has considerable grass, furnishing camps at almost any -place. - - 1130 - -_18th_—18 miles to camp, on Cascade creek. Two miles to American falls, -10 miles to palaisades, 6 to camp. The water of the American falls does -not descend perpendicularly, but like a cascade. The whole descent from -the upper to the lower expanse is from 40 to 50 feet, reckond by -perpendicular measurement. The rocks about the falls appear volcanic, -though some of them show marks of stratification. The table lands here -close in, so as to make the bottom lands draw to a point at the falls. -Below the falls, the table lands border the river, and being entirely -destitute of grass, render encampments difficult, much of the way. - -_19th_—8 miles to Cassia creek. No wood. At this camp, the California -road leaves the Oregon trail to the right hand. West of camp, and near -to it, is a range of basaltic trap rocks, of a prismatic and columnar -structure, the fairest specimens of basalt I have seen. Range about 60 -feet high above the creek. - -_20th_—16 miles over a district of basaltic rocks, slightly hidden from -sight by a thin layer of clay, though in many places they protrude so as -to render traveling with wagons irksome. Camp on Marsh or Swamp creek. -No wood, plenty of grass bordering the creek. Country around, both -mountains and plains, destitute of soil. On the plain, is the famd sage. -On the mountains, are clusters of inferior cedar growth. Rest of the -mountains totally barren. - -_21st_—11½ miles, over a dry and dusty plain, to camp, on Snake river, -about 2 miles above the mouth of Goose creek. Here is a narrow bottom, -which furnishes a little coarse grass. No wood. River here about ¼ of a -mile wide. - - 1183½ - -_22d_—21 miles. Four miles to Goose creek, 8 miles to the river, a poor -place for encamping, 9 miles farther to camp. Grass. No water at this -season of the year in this creek. No wood but willows. Forenoon, road -was good. Afternoon, rocky. - - 1204½ - -_23rd_—9 miles to Rock creek, so calld from its rocky bottom. Fine -little stream. Willows for wood. Good camp. - -_24th_—21 miles to camp. Ten to the crossing of Rock creek. Here the -banks are steep and rocky. We noond at this place. Here, also, is grass -enough for a small company to camp at. About 4 miles farther on, Rock -creek turns to the left, and we saw it no more. At this bend of the -creek is a tolerable camp. Seven miles farther brought us to camp, and a -miserable one it was, being on the top of Snake River bluffs, a hight of -at least 300 feet perpendicular from the river. No grass at this place. -Our cattle were driven down a narrow and difficult way, much of it very -steep, three-fourths of a mile to the river, where it was bordered in -some places by little patches of grass, often not one rod wide. Our -cattle were taken up, next morning, with not half a supply during the -night. - - 1234½ - -_25th_—16 miles. Eleven miles to Warm Spring creek. Here is but little -grass. About 4 miles farther, to Salmon Fall creek. One mile down the -creek, to camp, near its mouth. Here is a very good camp. On the -north-east side of the river, along here for several miles, are fine -springs issuing from the bluffs, some of which would carry the largest -flouring mills. They are a curiosity. Supposd to be the waters of the -river, spreading out into the country above the American falls, and -passing along between the basaltic rock above, and another stratum -below, till they arrive at this place, where they are dischargd into the -river. The evidence that they are the waters of the river appears to be -derivd from the fact, that the river between the falls and this place -has not more than half the water in it that it has above the falls. - -_26th_—6 miles. Five miles to first rapids of Salmon falls, 1 more to -camp. But little grass at this place, and that is mostly on a small -island or two. Salmon falls is more a cascade than fall, except in one -place, where it falls a few feet perpendicularly. Also calld Fishing -falls. The whole cascade is more than a mile in length. To this place -the Indians resort to obtain salmon, which at some seasons of the year -are tolerably plenty, having come from the ocean up the Columbia river, -to the mouth of Snake river, whence they find their way to this place. - - 1256½ - -_27th_—24½ miles to camp, on Snake river. To obtain this camp, we left -the road a mile and a half back, and followd a dry branch down to this -place. To-day, we traveld over a dry sage plain, though we had a -tolerably good road. At this place, and even farther east, are seen the -relics of wagons of former emigrants, strewd along the road. Boxes, -bands, tire, and all parts of the irons of wagons, left behind. - - 1281 - -_28th_—2 miles from where we left the road, yesterday, to the old -crossing of Snake river. At the crossing, are two small islands, which -furnish a little grass, Encampd 2½ miles farther on, where is little -grass. No wood for fuel. Along the river at this place, is a kind of -grass so salt that cattle will eat it only as they stand in need of -salt. The leaves of this grass grow about 3 inches high, and the -seed-bearing stalk is from 6 to 10 inches in hight. It grows along the -river bottoms, in small patches. I do not know any name for it, and -therefore denominate it _salt grass_, as other grasses will grow amongst -it, that are perfectly fresh. - -_29th_—12 miles, over as rough and stony a road, along the banks of -Snake river, as ever I traveld. One wagon was broken, to-day, and left -to be totally destroyd by those that came after us. - - 1297½ - -_30th_—11 miles to camp. Grass not very good. About two miles back, -grass might be had by driving the cattle on to an island, in the river. -Road sandy during forepart of the route, to-day, and during the -afterpart, good. - -_31st_—11½ miles. Six and a half miles to Salt Grass creek, a name given -from the abundance of salt grass growing there. A tolerable camp might -be had at that place. The creek soon passes among the bluffs, in a -northerly direction, and unites with Snake river, about 5 miles below -where we are campd. Grass is plenty at this place, but it is almost -impossible to obtain any thing of which to make fires. - - 1320 - -_August 1st_—19½ miles, over a very level plain, most of the way, and -near to the river, to camp, on Grease Wood creek, about a mile above its -mouth. No good camp can be had along this day’s route, till our present -one, which is not very good. Between camp and Snake river, the little -stream on which our camp is located passes through two crags of basaltic -rock, much crumbled down by time. Rock, east of creek, shows marks of -excessive volcanic violence. Volcanic cinders, rocks half melted, -chimneys where smoke has issued, and in fact, every mark of Vulcan’s -blacksmith shop is here displayd. - -_2d_—24 miles to camp on Snake river, at the mouth of a small dry -branch. Grass scarce. No place for encamping, short of this place, -except at 8 miles from last night’s camp, where a small stream affords -very little grass. Our way, to-day, has been over a very uneven and -dusty road. We ascended one hill, so steep and sandy, that we were -obligd to double our teams to surmount it. - - 1363½ - -_3d_—4 miles to camp, on Snake river, and drove our cattle on to a small -island. - -_4th_—9 miles to camp, on Snake river, 7½ miles to Hot springs, 1½ to -camp. The water of these Hot springs, at their source, is scalding hot. -We crossd them both, a short distance from their source, and as they are -not very far apart, it is probable that their fountain is together. They -are much mineralized. - -_5th_—14½ miles, through a sultry hot day, over a desert plain and dusty -road, to camp, on Snake river. No good camp could be had short of this -place, to-day. During the day, we could discover a visible lowering down -of the mountains on each side, towards the confluence of Boyce and Owyhe -rivers and the Snake, where their valleys unite and form an extensive -plain. Salt grass still continues along the river bottom. We, to-day, -lose sight of the basaltic rocks, so long witnessd on our right hand and -on our left. They reach from the American falls nearly to this place, -and as they appear to be thinner on advancing westward, it is thought by -some that the lava of which they are formd, flowd in that direction. It -is said that the Indians of this place are snakes in the grass, but it -is much to be regretted that the river is not a snake in the grass, -whilst our cattle are in so starving a condition. - -_6th_—19 miles to camp on Owyhe river, about 4 miles above Fort Boyce. -Not very good grass at this place. - - 1410 - -_7th_—Traveld one mile and a half down Owyhe river, and encampd. - -_8th_—16 miles, over a good road, to camp, on Malheur (pron. malare) -river. Grass plenty. No firewood but willows. At this place, Mr. Meek -attempted a cut-off to Oregon city, by following up the course of this -river south, for some distance, and then directing his course westward, -till he should arrive at Willamet valley, south a considerable distance -from Oregon city. His attempt proved a failure, with the loss of -considerable property and the lives of some of his company. It is said -that there were nearly 200 wagons in his train. - -Our route to-day, from last night’s camp to Malheur river, leaves Fort -Boyce 3 miles to the right. The fort is located in a pleasant place, on -the bank of Snake river, just below the union of the Owyhe and Boyce -with the Snake. The river at this place is near a quarter of a mile -wide, and the only means of ferrying it is a canoe brought from the -river Payette, 250 miles from this place. - - 1427½ - -_9th_—25 miles to camp, on Birch creek. 13 miles to a sulphur spring, -where we noond. This distance is up an arm of the Malheur, though dry at -the time. Its course is through a level flat, from one to two miles -wide, having high ranges of land on each side. From Sulphur spring, the -road ascends rapidly to its highest point, a mile or two farther on, -where the country can be viewd for a considerable distance all around. -Reflecting upon such a wonderful scenery as is here on every side -displayd, the mind can hardly appreciate the amount of dynamics adequate -to displace and disrupt the surface of the earth so immensely. It -appears like a great harrow, fit only for Hercules to use in leveling -off the surface of some planet. - -_10th_—8 miles to Burnt river, (probably from the naked and reddend -appearance of the mountains through which it passes.) Three miles of the -morning route brought us once more to Snake river, where we saw it for -the last time. Remaining 5 miles over a somewhat hilly road to camp, on -Burnt river, but a small stream at this place. On viewing the river and -its small flats bordering it, from camp, it appears wholly environd by -rugged, jagged mountains, in close contiguity. Oh, when shall I view, -once more, a verdant landscape! One thousand miles of naked rocks! -Landscape without soil! River bottoms with scarcely grass enough to -support emigrant teams. Who can but think of his native land and the -“old oaken bucket”? - - 1460½ - -_11th_—13 miles to camp on Burnt river. No good camp short of this, and -this not very good. For 5 or 6 miles of our morning route up the river, -the road was very rough and stony, and it crosses the creek seven times -within that distance. Remainder of the day’s travel was more easily -performd, though more hilly, yet smooth. South of camp and near to it, -ascends a mountain, the height of which, as nearly as I could measure, -with the limited means I had, is about 1300 feet above the bed of Burnt -creek. Along this stream emigrants have formerly been much intimidated -through fear of sudden attacks from Indians. It is very densely shrouded -much of the way with balm of Gilead, alder, hawthorn, and various kinds -of shrubbery, so that the Indians could secrete themselves, till the -near approach of an emigrant train, and then with a sudden rush from the -thicket, frighten the teams and kill many of the emigrants. However, we -saw no Indians along this river. - -_12th_—4 miles over a worse road than yesterday afternoon, and crossd -the creek five times. - - 1477½ - -_13th_—16 miles to camp on a tributary of Burnt river. Soon after having -started in the morning, we crossd the principal stream of Burnt river, -for the last time. A little farther on, we came to a small right hand -tributary coming from the north, which we followd up about 2 miles, -crossing it 8 times. We then left it, winding our way over the mountains -westwardly, crossing two or three other small tributaries, till we -arrivd again upon the Burnt river bottoms, not more than 8 miles in a -straight line from last night’s camp. At this place we noond, after -having passd over a hilly, though smooth road. Here emigrants might -tarry for the night. One mile further on we crossd North fork, and upset -one wagon at the crossing. Our course was now nearly west, up a -mountain, till we arrivd at a branch of the North fork. Passing on a -mile or more, we encampd for the night. Grasses along the bottom here -are coarse, consisting of wild wheat, rye, and wild chess. Mountain -grasses here are the bunch grass, as it is calld, but at this time so -dry and dead that cattle do not love it. The hills at the sources of the -Burnt river, among which they ramify in all directions, like the blood -vessels in the human system, are composd measurably of a slaty rock, -which decomposes into loose material more readily than the hard basaltic -rocks of Snake river. Occasionally, however, graphic granite is here -seen to protrude above the hills. - -_14th_—20 miles to camp, at Lone Pine stump, now nearly obliterated by -fires set to it by emigrants, in the valley of Powder river. Here is the -bed of a small stream, where there is water at some seasons of the year, -though dry now, except in stagnant ponds. Grass is tolerably plenty -along this little branch. No wood at this place to be obtaind for -cooking. Road, to-day, hilly but smooth. At about 6 miles, emigrants -might camp. Here, we left the waters of Burnt river, and passd over the -hills to Powder river. Powder River valley, east of camp, still retains -the old character of desert and sage plain. - - 1513½ - -_15th_—14½ miles to camp, on west branch in west valley of Powder river. -Nine miles to Powder river, down by a circuitous route, along the river, -2 miles to first crossing. Thence across the plain to second fork or -crossing, 2½ miles. One mile farther to west fork or third crossing. In -all, 14½ miles to camp. East valley of Powder river is a spacious plain, -very level, and would be as handsome a valley as my feet ever trode -upon, were it coverd with the rich grasses of the eastern states. At -each of the three crossings here mentiond, which unite a short distance -below us and form the principal Powder river, is seen in small patches, -a luxuriant growth of the well known grass, red top. As we advance, the -climate changes. In camp, this morning, was seen ice in our cooking -vessels, and by 10 we were uncomfortably warm. On our left, the Powder -River mountains, close by which the river finds it way, are clothd with -timber, nearly down their declivities to their base. On our right they -yet are naked, Indians around us are burning, as fast as verdure becomes -dry enough, which at this time, renders the air so smoky, that we can -see but a short distance. - -_16th_—15 miles to camp, at the head of Grand Round valley. After -traveling a short distance, this morning, from the last crossing of -Powder river, we ascended a short rise. We then proceeded over a smooth -road of moderate descent, till we came to a small branch of Powder -river, at the foot of a hill, where several small rivulets are seen to -issue from the hills round about. This is about 8 miles from the last -crossing. Here is a tolerable encampment. The rest of the way to Grand -Round hollow, a distance of 7 miles further, is over a hilly and some -part of the way, very stony road. At 10½ miles from the crossing, -emigrants might also encamp for the night, there being a little water -and some grass along a small run. Grand Round valley is extensive. It is -surrounded with high hills, coverd with bunch grass, except occasional -patches of yellow pine. Along our road, this valley is rich, coverd with -various kinds of grasses, though entirely dead much of the way across -the upper end of the valley at this time, no rains having fallen here -lately. - -_17th_—15 miles to camp, on Grand Round river. Eight miles across the -head of the beautiful Grand Round valley, to a small branch, where -emigrants might camp for the night, at the foot of the Blue mountains -bordering the valley. From thence, we wound our way over the steep and -rugged mountains, racking and straining our wagons, the distance of 7 -miles farther, to the deep and lonely dell, where the Grand Round river -is struggling and forcing its way through its narrow passage, down to -the beautiful valley, Grand Round. Over this day’s route, the mountains -have as rich a soil as the valley, till near the dell, where the red -mountain soil is seen. Where we are campd, the dell is narrow, and -furnishes but little grass. It is remarkable for loudness of sound, when -a gun is fired. Rocks of these mountains, volcanic. - - 1558½ - -_18th_—10½ miles, over a very uneven district of volcanic rocks and -mountain soil, to camp, on one of the highest peaks of the Blue -mountains on our route. Country, to-day, becomes more densely timberd -all around and along our road, overshadowing it in many places with -yellow pine, fir and spruce hemlock. Have passd several deep cuts, -to-day, so steep that teams were necessarily doubld to ascend out of -them, and some of them were dangerous and difficult. Our camp is located -on the side of a high ridge, in a small opening, nearly one fourth of a -mile above its base, where we were obligd to descend, to obtain water -for cooking. From this high ridge, it is said, Mt. Hood can be seen, but -at this time it is so smoky, that we can see but a little distance. - - 1569 - -_19th_—10 miles, over the western declivity of the Blue mountains, -moderate in descent, and tolerably smooth most of the way to camp, in a -small opening, a little larger than our carelle, calld Lee’s encampment. -Here, two men met us, from Fort Waters, where the late murders were -committed, with news that we had nothing to fear from hostile Indians, -any farther on our route. This gave great encouragement to the timorous -emigrants. Accordingly, - -_20th_—We descended the western declivity of the Blue mountains, part of -the way over volcanic scoria, to camp, on Umatilla river. About 12 miles -of the first part of this day’s route, was through a timberd district of -pine, hemlock and fir, loaded, many of them, with pendant moss. On -leaving the timber, we ascended a hill, a mile or more, to Mount -Prospect, the last high point before descending the bluffs to the river. -I name the hill, from its commanding a view of the whole western -horizon, to a great distance around. - -On Prospect hill is a cluster of rocks, which, with a little help of the -imagination, can be easily construed into Vulcan’s blacksmith shop, -where all the cinders so profusely spread over the Blue mountains, were -made. On retiring, he left his forge loaded with the cinders of his last -blast, as a memorial of his great ambition. - -Three and a half miles more, down the bluffs, brought us to camp, making -in all, this day, 16½ miles. - - 1595½ - -_21st_—Down Umatilla river, near to crossing, 10 miles. Country here -entirely prairie, and very undulating. - -_22d_—Crossd the river, half a mile below camp, and passd about two -miles on the flat. Ascended the bluff, and passd over the prairie about -14 miles, to the river, down the river two miles to camp, making in all -18½ miles. Prairie, to-day, uneven, and of poor soil. - - 1624 - -_23d_—14½ miles to camp, on Alder creek. Five miles to second crossing -of Umatilla, 8½ miles to Alder creek, up the same one mile to camp. -Little grass, no wood but fine willows. In this day’s travel, two miles -might have been savd, by crossing the river at camp, but to avoid sandy -traveling, emigrants go down the river some farther. This is Whitman’s -cut-off. - -_24th_—18½ miles, over a poor tract of the Columbia River valley, to -camp, at the foot of a hill, by a spring, calld Well spring, rising in -the center of a large mound of decayd vegetation, and sinking suddenly -again, within a few feet of where it issues. Noond, to-day, on the -battle-ground of the 24th February, 1848, between Oregon soldiers and -the Cayuse Indians. No grass nor water exists along this day’s route, -where emigrants might refresh themselves and their weary teams. Fire -wood is obtaind two miles east, in a hollow, where are a few scattering -cedars. The spring at camp should be watchd during the night, by a -strong guard, to keep thirsty cattle from falling into it, out of which -they cannot extricate themselves. - -_25th_—13 miles, over a miserably poor and uneven country, to Quesnell’s -creek. Down the creek one mile, in order to obtain water, where camp is -located. - - 1670 - -_26th_—Staid at camp. Morning cold. Found there was ice in our cooking -vessels, though weather became warm during the day. - -_27th_—Returnd up the creek to the crossing, though on the west side of -the flat. From the east side of the flat, to-day’s reckoning commences, -and crosses over to Beaver fork of John Day’s river, a distance of 20½ -miles. No camp can be had between the two places, though a small spring -exists, two miles east of camp. Most of the way to-day, the road has -been good, through a long, level valley. - -_28th_—7 miles to crossing of John Day’s river. Way down Beaver fork, -very rocky, and road crosses it 4 times. - - 1697½ - -_29th_—Down John Day’s river, half a mile. Then ascended the bluff, -about one mile, up a narrow, winding, rocky ravine, the worst we had -ever traveld. On the top of this bluff, the road divides, one leading to -the Columbia river. The other, at the left, is the one we took. From the -top of this bluff, the road, the remainder of the day, was smooth to -camp, at a lone spring among the bluffs. Distance to-day, about fifteen -miles. Grass enough for a small band. No wood. About two miles east, up -a ravine a short distance to the left, there are two small springs, -where a small party might camp for the night. No wood. - - 1712½ - -_30th_—25 miles to camp, on the western declivity of the dividing ridge, -between John Day’s and Deshutes river, at the upper end of a ravine, -where was a little grass, but no wood, and no water for cattle. We staid -through the night, without supper, and left next morning, without -breakfast. - -_31st_—Traveld about 5 miles, to the crossing of Deshutes or Fall river. -Here, we breakfasted in a deep chasm, almost as difficult of descent and -ascent, as the valley of Sindbad the sailor, with nearly precipitous -rocks, from 1000 to 1500 feet high, on every side. Afternoon employd in -calking wagon-boxes, to ferry our goods across the river. - -_Friday, Sept. 1st_—All day employd in getting our goods across the -river, with the help of several Indians. River at the crossing, about -seven rods wide, with considerable current. - -_2d_—Whilst watching some of our wagons on the bank of the river, till -others could be taken up the bluffs, I was led to the following -reflections upon the miserable condition of the poor, degraded-looking -Indians at this place— - - - THE INDIANS OF DESHUTES. - - “That Indian, whose untutord mind - Sees God in the clouds, or hears him in the wind— - Whose soul, proud science never taught to stray” - Far as the glittring sun, or other orbs of day, - Lives far retird—a kanion deep, a solitary dell, - A gloomy shade—’tis there he deigns to dwell. - What is his food, when naught but rocks around - Are seen? No fields of plenty there do clothe the ground. - His raiment, also scant, to shield his naked form, - No robes of beasts, nor pelts, nor furs, to guard him from the storm. - And when with food he chance to break his fast, - He finds no wood to cook his limited repast. - Alas, what then? The salmon and the salmon trout, - In that mad stream, are seen to gambol all about. - By him prepard upon the rocks, or hung on slender poles, - Not far above, on steep decline, where furious water rolls, - He dries his food, and thus ’tis savd from future harm. - ’Tis nearly all he has of food—his clothes, they still are less, with - which to keep him warm. - Now, why should man, poor wretched man, receive such prompt reply, - That when he broke the law of God, ’twas sure that he must die? - Yet linger first awhile, still wretched and forlorn, - To glean an almost naked earth, ’mongst thistle and the thorn? - ’Twas done to show that God is just, and true to all intent,— - That man a lesson here might learn, and thus to him repent. - -Nine miles from Deshutes, over the rocky bluffs, brought us to another -resting-place, on an arm of Deshutes, flowing from the mountains, in the -direction of Mount Hood. Five miles from Deshutes, was a spring, where -emigrants sometimes camp, but at this time the Indian ponies had eaten -off all the grass. We therefore passd on to our present camp. - - 1751½ - -_3d_—12½ miles to camp, on a small tributary of Deshutes, at Barlow’s -gate—all but the gate, though he was found sitting there at the receipt -of custom, allowing each emigrant wagon to pass his road through the -Cascade mountains, at the moderately healthy sum of five dollars each, -which the Government of Oregon had authorized him to receive. But, as -miserable a road as it was, thanks be to Mr. Barlow for his energetic -movement in opening a way through so rough a district as the Cascade -mountains. - -Several small streams were passd to-day, though no camps could well be -made on them, for want of grass, except the first, which had a very -little. - - 1764 - -_4th_—Staid at the same place. - -_5th_—Over the rocky hills, 12 miles to camp, on a muddy arm of -Deshutes, flowing from Mount Hood. Ten and a half miles to the arm, 1½ -up the same to camp. No grass for our stock. - -_6th_—3 miles up Deshutes valley, to Palmer’s cabin. In consequence of -having lost some of our cattle in the thick and almost impenetrable -forest, our day’s drive was short. A little below Palmer’s cabin, are -signs of very rich bog iron ore. I afterwards found other places of iron -ore along the road, by which I was satisfied that the Cascades abound in -iron. - - 1779 - -_7th_—10 miles, over the dividing ridge, to camp, at a small flat -prairie on our left, from which Mount Hood is seen, a few miles distant, -towring high above its neighbor mountains. - - 1789 - -_8th_—10 miles to camp. No grass. Chaind our oxen to trees, and cut a -few birch limbs for them. Passd, to-day, what is calld Laurel hill. It -is steep and dangerous. - -_9th_—6 miles, down Muddy fork of Sandy, to camp. Drove our cattle -across the stream, and found some grass for them. This has been a rainy -day. - -_10th_—15 miles, most of the way over a good road, especially on the -ridge, calld by some, “Devil’s Back-Bone.” - -_11th_—8 miles, over a hilly road, down to the first settlement, at the -west foot of the Cascade mountains. One mile to the last crossing of -Sandy creek, 7 more to camp. - - 1828 - -_12th_—12 miles to camp. - -_13th_—6 miles to Oregon city. - - 1846 - - - - - ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - -Necessary outfits for emigrants to Oregon or California, taken from - Palmer’s Journal of Travels to Oregon—Additional advice by the - Author. - -For burthen wagons, light four-horse or heavy two-horse wagons are the -size commonly usd. They should be made of the best material, well -seasond, and should in all cases have falling tongues. The tire should -not be less than one and three fourths inches wide, but may be -advantageously usd three inches; two inches, however, is the most common -width. In fastening on the tire, bolts should be usd instead of nails; -it should be at least five eighths or three fourths of an inch thick. -Hub boxes for the hubs should be about four inches. The skeins should be -well steeld. The Mormon-fashiond wagon-bed is the best. They are usually -made straight, with side-boards about 16 inches wide, and a projection -outward of four inches on each side, and then another side-board of 10 -or 12 inches. In this last, set the bows for covers, which should always -be double. Boxes for carrying effects should be so constructed as to -correspond in hight with the offset in the wagon-bed, as this gives a -smooth surface to sleep upon. - -Ox teams are more extensively usd than any others. Oxen stand the trip -much better, and are not so liable to be stolen by the Indians, and are -much less trouble. Cattle are generally allowd to go at large, when not -hitchd to the wagons, whilst horses and mules must always be stakd up at -night. Oxen can procure food in many places where horses cannot, and in -much less time. Cattle that have been raisd in Illinois or Missouri, -stand the trip better than those raisd in Indiana or Ohio, as they have -been accustomd to eating the prairie grass, upon which they must wholly -rely while on the road. Great care should be taken in selecting -cattle—they should be from four to six years old, tight and heavy made. - -For those who fit out but one wagon, it is not safe to start with less -than four yoke of oxen, as they are liable to get lame, have sore necks, -or to stray away. One team thus fitted up may start from Missouri with -twenty-five hundred pounds, and as each day’s rations make the load that -much lighter, before they reach any rough road, their loading is much -reducd.—Persons should recollect that every thing in the outfit should -be as light as the requird strength will permit. No useless trumpery -should be taken. The loading should consist of provisions and apparel, a -necessary supply of cooking fixtures, a few tools, &c. No great -speculation can be made in buying cattle and driving them through to -sell, but as the prices of oxen and cows are much higher in Oregon than -in the States, nothing is lost in having a good supply of them, which -will enable the emigrant to wagon through many articles that are -difficult to be obtaind in Oregon. Each family should have a few cows, -as the milk can be usd the entire route, and they are often convenient -to put to the wagon to relieve oxen. They should be so selected that -portions of them would come in fresh upon the road. Sheep can also be -advantageously driven. American horses and mares always command high -prices, and with careful usage can be taken through,—but if usd to -wagons or carriages, their loading should be light. Each family should -be provided with a sheet-iron stove, with boiler. A platform can easily -be constructed at the hind end of the wagon, and as it is frequently -quite windy, and there is often a scarcity of wood, the stove is very -convenient. Each family should also be provided with a tent, and to it -should be attachd good strong cords, to fasten it down. - -The cooking fixtures generally usd are of sheet iron—a Dutch oven and -skillet of cast metal are very essential. Plates, cups, &c., should be -of tinware, as queensware is much heavier and liable to break, and -consumes much time in packing up. A reflector is sometimes very useful. -Families should each have two churns, one for carrying sweet and one for -sour milk.—They should also have one eight or ten-gallon keg for -carrying water, one axe, one shovel, two or three augers, one hand-saw, -and if a farmer, he should be provided with one cross-cut saw and a few -plow-molds, as it is difficult getting such articles. When I left the -country, plows cost from twenty-five to forty dollars each. A good -supply of ropes for tying up horses and catching cattle, should also be -taken. - -Every person should be well supplied with boots and shoes, and in fact -with every kind of clothing. It is also well to be supplied with at -least one feather bed, and a good assortment of bedding. There are no -tame geese in the country, but an abundance of wild ones, yet it is -difficult procuring a sufficient quantity of feathers for a bed. The -Muscovy is the only tame duck in the country. - -Each male person should have at least one rifle gun, and a shot gun is -also very useful for wild fowl and small game, of which there is an -abundance. The best sized calibre for the mountains is from thirty-two -to fifty-six to the pound—but one of from sixty to eighty, or even less, -is best when in the lower settlements. Buffaloes seldom range beyond the -South Pass, and never west of Green river. The larger game are elk, -deer, antelope, mountain sheep or bighorn, and bear. The small game are -hare, rabbit, grouse, sage hen, pheasant, quail, &c. A good supply of -ammunition is essential. - -In laying in a supply of provisions for the journey, persons will -doubtless be governd in some degree by their means, but there are a few -essentials that all will require. - -For each adult, there should be two hundred pounds of flour, thirty -pounds of pilot bread, seventy-five pounds of bacon, ten pounds of rice, -five pounds of coffee, two pounds of tea, twenty-five pounds of sugar, -half a bushel of dried beans, one bushel of dried fruit, two pounds of -saleratus, ten pounds of salt, half a bushel of corn meal—and it is well -to have a half bushel of corn, parchd and ground—a small keg of vinegar -should also be taken. To the above may be added as many good things as -the means of the person will enable him to carry, for whatever is good -at home is none the less so on the road. The above will be ample for the -journey, but should an additional quantity be taken, it can be readily -disposd of in the mountains and at good prices, not for cash, but for -robes, dressd skins, buckskin pants, moccasins, &c. It is also well for -families to be provided with medicines. It is seldom, however, that -emigrants are sick—but sometimes eating too freely of fresh buffalo meat -causes diarrhœa, and unless it be checkd soon prostrates the individual, -and leaves him a fit subject for disease. - -The time usually occupied in making the trip from Missouri to Oregon -city is about five months, but with the aid of a person who has traveld -the route with an emigrating company, the trip can be performd in about -four months. - -Much injury is done to teams in racing them, endeavoring to pass each -other. - -Emigrants should make an every-day business of traveling—resting upon -the same ground two nights is not good policy, as the teams are likely -to ramble too far. - -Getting into large companies should be avoided, as they are necessarily -compeld to move more tardily. From ten to twenty-five wagons is a -sufficient number to travel with safety. The advance and rear companies -should not be less than twenty, but between, it may be safe to go with -six. - -The Indians are very annoying on account of their thieving propensities, -but if well watchd, they would seldom put them in practice. - -Persons should always avoid rambling far from camp unarmd or in too -small parties; Indians will sometimes seek such opportunities to rob a -man of what little effects he has about him, and if he attempts to get -away from them with his property, they will sometimes shoot him. - -There are several points along the Missouri where emigrants have been in -the practice of fitting out. Of these, Independence, St. Josephs and -Council Bluffs, are the most noted. For those emigrating from Ohio, -Indiana, Illinois and northern Missouri, Iowa and Michigan, I think St. -Josephs the best point, as by taking that route the crossing of several -streams (which at the early season we travel are sometimes very high) is -avoided. Outfits may be had at this point as readily as at any other -along the river. Work cattle can be bought in its vicinity for from -twenty-five to thirty dollars per yoke, cows, horses, &c., equally -cheap. - -Emigrants should endeavor to arrive at St. Josephs early in April, so as -to be in readiness to take up the line of march by the middle of April. -Companies, however, have often started as late as the tenth of May; but -in such cases they seldom arrive in Oregon until after the rainy season -commences in the Cascade range of mountains. - -Those residing in northern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, &c., who -contemplate traveling by land to the place of rendezvous, should start -in time to give their teams at least ten days’ rest. Ox teams, after -traveling four or five hundred miles in the States, at that season of -the year, would be unfit to perform a journey across the mountains; but -doubtless they might be exchangd for others, at or near the rendezvous. - -Farmers would do well to take along a good supply of horse gears. -Mechanics should take such tools as are easily carried; as there are but -few in the country, and those are held at exorbitant prices. Every -family should lay in a good supply of school books for their children. - - * * * * * * * * - -Since the advice of Mr. Palmer was given to Oregon emigrants, relating -to outfits for the overland route to that country, some advantages have -been experiencd by the use of mule instead of ox teams. In the first -place, that animal is much more sure-footed than the ox or the horse, -and in the next place, he can live on kinds of food that the ox or the -horse will not eat, and he will also live on a much less amount. The -mule is more hardy than the horse or the ox, and will endure fatigue -when the others will faint. Another circumstance which I do not -recollect to have seen mentiond by any writer, and which it may not be -improper to add in this place, is the failure of oxen upon the emigrant -route, from lameness by traveling over ground bestrewn with salts of -various kinds, but mostly alkali. To neutralize the alkali so as to -prevent the oxen from becoming lame, their hoofs should be rubd with -lard or tallow at least twice each day, till the tract of country -containing such salt is passd over. It is, however, probable that in a -few years the place of oxen will be supplied by the use of mules, though -attention will doubtless need to be paid to the hoofs of mules, to keep -them sound, as well as of oxen. - -If persons wish to leave the States for California by the overland -route, earlier than the time mentioned by Mr. Palmer, it would be -necessary to leave the States with as much provision for their teams as -they could at first well haul, after having first supplied themselves -with their own necessary food to last them through their journey. In -such case a considerable distance may be overcome before the early -production of grasses upon the plains. - -A few words by way of advice to persons wishing to go to California to -dig for gold, may not be uninteresting here. I have noticed that miners -from the States carry to California a great amount of baggage and -implements for mining operations at great costs of transportation and -removal from one place to another, which I deem wholly unnecessary. This -oftentimes enormous expense can be savd from the fact that clothing and -mining implements of all necessary kinds are very abundant in -California, although at a higher price than in the States, yet still the -cost of most articles in the mines will not equal the cost in the -States, added to transportation costs from the States to the seat of -mining operations in California. I would therefore say that one suit of -substantial coarse clothes, and money enough to defray expenses there, -is all that is best to carry. The amount of money necessary to defray -expenses, by way of the isthmus, from the States to the seat of mining -operations in California, cannot at present be less than 200 dollars to -each person, at the cheapest mode of traveling. Conveyance by steamer, -with best accommodations, will cost not much short of 500 dollars, but -in no case, considering contingencies, will it be safe to start with -less than 300 dollars. - -Another circumstance which I have seen much chanted in the public -papers, although not particularly connected with the foregoing -information, is the scheme of making a railroad from the States overland -to California. I can only speak for one person, and this much it is, -that if Whitney knew that out of 2000 miles overland, more than 1500 of -it is a waste, barren tract, and likewise much of it very rugged, he -might be prepard to think as I do, that the income of such a road would -never keep it in repair. - - [Illustration: Wagon] - - - - - DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - - South Pass—Wind River Mountains—Oregon, its three grand divisions. - -Having accomplishd my journal of distances from St. Josephs to Oregon -city, I begin my history of Oregon with the South Pass and Wind River -mountains. From descriptions formerly given by some writers of the South -Pass, the reader may be led to suppose that the traveler is to pass -through a tremendous gap of the Rocky mountains, walld in with huge -rocks on its sides, passable only by traversing the bottoms of a stream -of water, which finds its way through the mountains of that place. But -instead of such an appearance as that, on arriving at the culminating -point, he sees before him, on his left and behind, only an undulating -country, difficult probably in many places to pass with wagons, on -account of the roughness and unevenness of the surface of the land, but -destitute entirely of those cragged cliffs and high towring mountains, -which the imagination sometimes pictures out, previous to a perfect -vision of a country scenery. - -The surface of the land along the emigrant route at the pass, is -sufficiently uneven to determine within one rod of the culminating -point, after which within a short distance, the road commences a -somewhat rapid descent westward three or four miles, to a spring issuing -from the hills, calld Pacific spring, because its waters are dischargd -westward into the Pacific ocean. - -On the right, at the dividing ridge, twelve or fifteen miles north of -the emigrant road, terminate the Wind River range of mountains, calld -also the Rocky mountains. From their southern extremity to a -considerable distance either east or west of the dividing ridge, they -are seen to stretch far away to the north-west, towring high and giving -rise to several important rivers, which traverse the continent, and -terminate, some of them in the Atlantic ocean eastward, and some of them -in the Pacific ocean westward. Although these mountains have many lofty -peaks, yet I believe none of them are sufficiently high to maintain -their glaciers during the whole year, at all times. It is nevertheless -true, that some of their chasms and deep ravines upon their -north-eastern declivities oftentimes have snow lying in them through the -year, yet no point on any one of them, as has been remarkd, is high -enough for the existence of a zone of perpetual frost. This position is -well corroborated, also, from the fact that forests are seen growing, -not only high up their declivities, but entirely upon their summits. - -The present country of Oregon, belonging to the U. States, extends from -the dividing ridge or natural division of the waters of the continent, -to the Pacific ocean westward, and in extent north and south, from lat. -42 deg. north to 49 deg. north. It seems to be divided into three grand -divisions, by ranges of parallel mountains from north to south. The -dividing summit of the continent on the east, west of the eastern -division, are the Blue mountains, separating it from the middle,—and -between the middle and western divisions, is the Cascade range of -mountains. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - - The Divisions are separately considerd—The Climate—Rivers and - Agricultural Resources—Mineral and Geological Character. - -The first or eastern division of Oregon can at present be considerd -worth little else than to hold the world together. It, however, -furnishes a tolerably good conveyance towards the ocean for some of the -waters of Oregon, that take their rise in the Rocky mountains and -elsewhere along the western declivity of the continent near to the -dividing ridge. - -The surface of this division is undulating. Some of its rivers traverse -the country along their beds, from five hundred to more than one -thousand feet below the common surface. Although along the emigrant -route this division measures about seven hundred miles in width, yet its -true width may not much exceed six hundred,—and little else is seen but -a country destitute of soil and vegetation, excepting wild sage, and -except also along the rivers and some of the valleys, where detachd -portions of grass are seen. The valley along the emigrant route, through -which the Powder river waters pass, is a level plain, and it would be a -delightsome Eden, had it soil, and were it coverd with luxuriant -grasses. - -I am here led to remark, that the analysis of the soil here, made by -Col. Fremont on his way through this valley, to foreign readers might -produce much misunderstanding relative to the soil of the country -generally. Although the analysis here producd may be such as indicates -good soil, yet with a little exaggeration it may be said that another -shovelful of earth would have taken nearly all the soil of the whole -valley. - - * * * * * * * * - -Across the middle division of Oregon by way of the emigrant route, from -Grand Round valley to Barlow’s gate, at the east side of the Cascade -range of mountains, is about 212 miles, though probably in a direct -course it would be some less than 200. The Blue mountains traversing -this division, give rise to some rivers that checker its visage, but -they are of minor importance, and nearly dried up in the summer, from -the long absence of rains in those parts. This division compares very -well with the eastern, in point of barrenness and disadvantages -generally for the promotion of settlement and improvements of any kind. - - * * * * * * * * - -I come now to consider the western division of Oregon—the only one on -which settlements of any considerable extent have been effected, -although Dr. Whitman succeeded in maintaining a small position on the -Walla Walla river, till the fall of 1847, at which time himself and wife -were killd by the Indians of his own fostering, growing out of a -dissatisfaction relative to his treatment with them. And although it is -thought by many that the doctor acted in all good conscience towards -them, yet through blind zeal and probably a sectarian influence from -other denominations of religionists, they were led to believe that the -doctor was taking measures to undermine their liberties, and ultimately -to overthrow and destroy them. - -From the east side of the Cascade range of mountains westwardly to the -Pacific ocean the western division ranges from 150 to 200 miles in -width, and extending from north to south through the whole length of the -Oregon territory. - - * * * * * * * * - -In remarking upon the several distinct subjects that come to hand -relative to Oregon, I am first led to notice its climate.—The climate of -Oregon may be considerd a healthy one, though it is subject to -considerable changes from year to year. The summer seasons are generally -dry, with warm days and cool nights, from the first of July to the first -of October, though the rainy season, as it is calld, does not commence -much before November, at which time, and for three or four months after, -the land becomes so saturated with water, and the streams so swollen, -that little passing is done by the citizens from one place to another. - -Soon after the rainy season commences in the valleys, the mountainous -portions begin to be coverd with snow, and it continues to accumulate -upon them at every successive storm, till in many places the snow -becomes nearly thirty feet deep, which lasts until quite the latter part -of the succeeding summer, before it entirely disappears. - -The winter seasons are very variable. During some of the winters, the -grasses of the valleys remain green, garden vegetables are verdant, and -but little frost is seen. Others again, for three months, the earth is -bound up with frost, and the rivers are frozen over of sufficient -thickness to bear passages of considerable burden. - -So far as the health of this country is concernd, it is true that some -sickness prevails, but it may be in a great measure owing to the -physical change in the physiology of the human system, in passing from -the States to a country so different in climate. After emigrants become -acclimated here, the blood becomes of a bright scarlet red, being much -more aerated or oxygenized than exists in the system in any of the -southern States of America, and consequently better health may be -inferd. At some seasons of the year, along some of the rivers, ague and -fever exists, but it is generally of a very mild character, and medicine -takes a speedy and salutary effect upon the human system. - -The description of the climate here given of Oregon, being applicable to -the western division does not in all respects apply to the two eastern -divisions. The whole of Oregon lying east, of the Cascade range of -mountains, is much drier, having less rains at any time, than the -portion lying west of them. - -It is often quite cold in winter, and being very dry in summer, renders -it truly a desert country. - -The rivers of Oregon of any considerable notice, are well known to most -readers. Although Columbia river is much the largest in the territory, -and produces the greatest drainage of any one, yet it does not by a -considerable amount drain all of the waters of Oregon that find their -way to the Pacific ocean. Green river, commencing at Fremont’s peak, in -the Wind river mountains, is the principal source of the great Rio -Colerado of Calafornia. The great Sacramento of upper Calafornia, has -its principal source in Oregon. Other rivers though less in size, yet -nevertheless, rivers that are likely to become rivers of considerable, -importance, indent the western coast, and furnish their own drainage to -the Pacific ocean. Those rivers which fall most immediately under the -notice of actual settlers of the present day, are comprisd within the -western division of Oregon. They are Willamet, the Umpqua and the -Klamet, with their several tributaries. These rivers and their -tributaries form valleys of moderate extent, and furnish many tolerable -good farms to those who love a romantic life among the hills and vales -of an undulating country. Wheat, oats, neat cattle and horses, are the -principal sources of wealth which is derivd from the soil at present. -Indian corn is not much cultivated in Oregon, its summers being too dry -for corn to thrive well. The swine of the country look well fattend upon -wheat, but the ox is mostly usd here for food. - -I ought here to remark that the wheat of this country is of a superior -quality. It is free from all those attending evils very common at the -east, such as smut, rust and wheat sickness.—The weevil is not known -here at present. The wheat of this country grows with a very stiff -stalk, which enables it to stand erect for a great length of time. This -furnishes the farmer during the dry season of the year an opportunity to -secure his abundant crop. - -The mineral resources of Oregon hitherto, have receivd but little -attention. Gold has been discoverd only sparingly.—Copper is said to -exist on the Cowlits, a small tributary to the Columbia river, on the -north of it, having its source in the direction of Puget’s sound. - -Lead has of late been seen upon the Santyam. It is thought by some -persons that it may be obtaind there in considerable quantities, but as -the minds of the Oregon people are at present directed to the gold mines -of California, little attention will be paid to mining operations at -home. Iron exists in large quantities in the Cascade mountains. Along -the emigrant route, I have seen iron probably as rich as 80 per cent. - -The soil of the whole division west of the Cascade range is tingd of a -reddish color by the red oxide of iron. This oxide in some places is so -abundant as to injure the soil. In other places the soil is not -materially injurd by it. In some places along the rocky bluffs of some -of the rivers, iron ore is quite rich. I observd one of those places in -the bluffs east of the Willamet falls, at the south end of Oregon city, -where the road, leading to the top of the highest bluff is excavated. -From my own observations in traveling over the western division, I am -confident that there is no lack of iron ore in almost every part, and so -soon as the inhabitants are ready to turn their attention to it, their -necessary supplies will be furnishd from their own country. - -The next subject relative to the Oregon country is its geological -character. In remarking upon the geology of this country several -departments of the science are presented to view. First, there are three -ranges of mountains running nearly parallel with each other from north -to south. - -The eastern range which bounds the eastern side of Oregon, is along the -dividing ridge of the American continent. If the question be asked, why -this dividing ridge? the geologist alone attempts an answer. From the -accumulation of facts hitherto adducd of the liquidity of the earth’s -interior, and the discharge for ages of its internal liquid matter upon -the already formd crust, it is evident that its nucleus must become less -than at first, and thereby produce a rigid and furrowd appearance of the -crust, by its conforming through the power of gravitation to a lesser -surface than that on which it was at first formd. Altho’ isolated peaks -of mountain ranges may be formd by accumulation of lava, and -considerable districts may be raisd by the pressure of gasses from -beneath, yet so considerable an elevation as the dividing ridge of the -American continent can never be formd in such a way. - -Oregon is truly an uneven and mountainous country. It is true that in -passing from the dividing ridge westward, there are a few situations -where the traveler views the country around him as apparently level, but -this appearance continues on advancing along, but a short distance, till -he is plunged into almost inextricable gulfs and deep ravines. The Blue -mountains or intermediate range between the dividing ridge and the -Cascade range, are of minor importance. They traverse no considerable -extent of country, nor are they very wide. They have a volcanic -appearance, and are strewd over with vescicular lava. - -The Cascade range of mountains are more extensive, traversing by -different names the whole of Oregon and California, at a distance of -from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific ocean. Some of its peaks are high -and coverd with perpetual glaciers. This range, like the dividing ridge, -seems to have been elevated by compression. - -Between the Willamet valley and the ocean, is a range of high hills -calld the Coast range. These are too rugged to admit of cultivation. - -The western shore of Oregon is rocky, and in many places precipitous. If -the theory that ocean beds are formd by undulations in the earth’s crust -be true, the query might arise, Why are ocean limits of precipitous -rocks of the firmest material, as is the case with many of the ocean -shores, and not a gradual slope from the land downward to the bed of the -ocean? If it be admitted that rivers are formd by the expansive force of -gasses acting beneath the earth’s crust, it may be supposd that a -fissure by similar means may be formd parallel and near to the shore of -an ocean, so that its waters by their weight may produce a subsidence of -that portion lying under them, whilst that part opposite the fissure -remaind stationary. - -Oregon may be regarded as a primary country. Few fossiliferous rocks are -seen in any part of it. I noticd on the west bank of Big Sandy creek, -about thirty miles west of South pass, a few fossiliferous shale rocks. -I have not noticd any in other places, though they may exist sparingly. -From the American falls on Snake river, for several hundred miles -westward the country is overlaid with a stratum of basaltic lava. This -seems to be the true basalt, and although the rocks of the Willamet -river at Oregon city have been considerd by some as basalt, from their -extreme hardness, yet I have noticd that the surface of those rocks, -after having been exposd to the weather, become a mere sand rock, by the -loss of the iron with which they are impregnated. It is well known to -mineralogists, that iron becomes soluble by the action of the atmosphere -upon it, by which means water carries it from its parent bed to lower -levels, where it is deposited, under the name of bog ore. The rocks at -Oregon city consist of about three varieties of rock, differing not -essentially in their properties, though some of them appear to have been -subjected to so high a degree of heat as to render them somewhat -crystaline or vitreous. The rocks at Oregon city are so fully -impregnated with iron, that the magnetic needle, at some points along -these rocks, is drawn aside from its polar position. - -From what information I have obtaind in addition to my own observation -respecting the rocks of Oregon, I am satisfied that few rocks except -those of a silicious formation, exist here. Along the Columbia river, -near its mouth, are a few lime rocks of inferior quality. At the Cascade -falls, are whole trees of silicious petrefaction, showing distinctly the -grains of the timber, and to what kind they belongd. - -As the Willamet river has hitherto attracted the attention of actual -settlers more than any other tributary of the Columbia river, I have -concluded to give a more particular description of it than any other one -belonging to the Western division of Oregon. From its confluence with -the Columbia to the high country of its sources, the Willamet traverses -a distance of about two hundred miles in extent. Its union with the -Columbia is not much short of one hundred miles from the ocean. At the -mouth of the Willamet, is a delta fifteen or twenty miles in length, -calld Souvie’s island, running nearly parallel with the Columbia. This -island was formerly the residence of immense numbers of Indians. The -Hudson Bay Company at present occupy it for farming purposes. At the -eastern or upper mouth of the Willamet, are one or two other small -deltas, though of no importance. - -About fifteen miles from the Columbia, on the west bank of the Willamet, -is a small town calld Portland. Ships of considerable burden visit this -place for their lading. - -Five miles farther up, on the east side, is a town newly laid out by Mr. -Lot Whitcomb, calld Milwaukie. Vessels of considerable size can sail as -far up as this place. - -Seven or eight miles farther up, on the east side, is a tributary calld -Clacamas. Its waters flow from the Cascade mountains. At the mouth of -this tributary are rapids, which prevent ships from sailing up to Oregon -city. - -One mile farther up, is Oregon city on the east side, and Lynn city on -the west side of the Willamet river. Between these two places is a bay, -the waters of which are between three and four hundred feet deep. The -width of the bay is about thirty rods, near the upper end at the -crossing, and gradually widens downward to the Clackamas rapids. - -Oregon city at present is built entirely upon the first terrace above -the waters of the bay, and being so narrow that there is but one street -that passes through the town lengthwise, excepting a Water street along -the shore of the bay. East of the present town and contiguous to it, is -a precipitous range of rocks, one hundred feet high from Main street, -and so near to it that there is but just room enough for the -accommodation of buildings with some very small gardens. On the top of -this bluff, which is a second terrace from the waters of the river, the -surveys for the town are extended, but no buildings have yet been -erected there. Still back of this at a short distance, is a third -terrace, elevated in hight equal to the surrounding country. - -Oregon city is a new town, containing about 150 buildings, two saw -mills, one of which is a double mill, and two grist mills. At each of -these mills, water enough is wasted to carry four other mills. I think I -may justly say, that there is water power enough at Oregon city to carry -five hundred grist mills. It seems, on taking a view of the natural dam -at the upper end of Oregon city, that when the fissure now constituting -the river was formd, the paroxysmal effort from beneath causd a lateral -dismemberment of some of the rocks along the sides of the fissure, and -upon sliding down chokd up the chasm from one side to the other. Below -the falls, the terrace on which the town stands seems to have taken a -similar slide, but being filld in part with rubbish beneath, prevented -an entire union of the rocks, leaving the chasm now constituting the -bay. - -The waters of the falls are precipitated over the cragged rocks at -several different places, foaming and tumbling with tremendous roar, to -the depth of thirty feet into the waters of the bay below. - -About one mile and a half above the falls, on the west side of the -river, is the small tributary calld Twality, issuing from the coast -range. - -Two or three miles farther up, is another slide of rocks, which chokes -up the entire stream, with the exception of a small chasm or two, too -narrow to admit boats of any considerable size to pass. - -About twelve miles above Oregon city, on the east side of the river, -Molala and Pudding river waters unite with the Willamet. These two -tributaries have good supplies of water for mills. After having -collected their waters from the hilly country east, they meander about -over the land, and finally empty into the Willamet at one place. - -About thirty miles above Oregon city, Yam creek unites with the -Willamet, on its west side, watering the country from the coast range in -two separate branches, till within about ten miles of the Willamet, -where they unite and form one. - -Salem, a small town on the east side of the Willamet, about forty-five -miles above Oregon city, is the site of the missionary, Mr. Lee, of the -Methodist order, now no more. At this place, is a classical school of -considerable merit, the only one of importance in Oregon territory. - -Rickreyall and Luckamute, on the west side of Willamet, contribute to -its waters, but little above Salem. - -Still farther up, and not more than eight or ten miles above Salem or -the Institute as some call it, on the east side of the Willamet, is the -Santyam, a stream of considerable importance, the principal branch of -which flows from Mount Jefferson, one of the glacial peaks of the -Cascade range. The course of this river from Mount Jefferson to its -union with the Willamet, is not more than about forty miles. - -Other tributaries of some importance still farther up, flow into the -Willamet, on both sides of it, till arriving at the high country of -their sources, where they ramify in all directions. - -Leaving the subject of the Willamet river, I pass on to a description of -the forests and animals of Oregon. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - - Forests and Animals of Oregon. - -Between the South pass and the Blue mountains, across the Eastern -division of Oregon, no forests encostume the earth, to emit their -fragrant odors to cheer and exhilarate the weary and thirsty traveler, -except on the Bear River mountains, a few isolated peaks scatterd over -that barren region. Along the streams occasionally, however, are seen an -inferior growth of timber and shrubbery of various kinds. The Blue -mountains afford some dense clusters of timber of yellow pine, -spruce-hemlock, and some fir. They do not, however, soar to the amazing -hight of some of the trees of the Cascade mountains and the Western -division. The Middle division is still more destitute of timber than the -Eastern. - -From the eastern side of the Cascade mountains westward to the Pacific -ocean, the country is mostly coverd with timber. Many of the forests are -so thickly set with under-brush, that they are with difficulty -penetrated. Here, the fir is the most prevalent. Hemlock, cedar, soft or -white maple as it is sometimes calld, oak and many other kinds of -timber, are found in this division. - -Timber of the same name with that of other countries, has a growth -dissimilar. I have seen Laurel from one to two feet in diameter, and -probably more than thirty feet high. Oak is generally inferior and -scrubby. Hazel is sometimes from five to six inches in diameter, though -it is commonly from one to two inches in diameter, being the only -article of which hoops for barrels are made. Its hight is sometimes from -twenty to twenty-five feet. Elder is often six inches in diameter, and -from twenty to thirty feet high. - -The largest tree I have seen in Oregon is a hemlock, standing near the -shore of Young’s bay, a little below the confluence of Young’s with the -Lewis and Clark’s river, about two miles above their entrance into the -Columbia, and about one mile and a half a little west of south from -Astoria. This tree is about two hundred feet in hight, and measures, six -feet from the ground, thirty-four and a half feet in circumference. The -tallest tree that I have been enabld to measure, is in Oregon city. Its -hight is about two hundred and seventy feet. I am, however, of opinion -that taller timber may be seen at the foot of Laurel hill, in the -Cascade mountains. - -The trees of this country in many places are coverd with moss. I have -noticd that the timber of evergreen countries is more commonly burdend -with moss than those where defoliation is general. Hence, I am of -opinion that Oregon will not be a very good country for fruit. I have -observd that apple trees soon cover with moss, and appear of an inferior -growth. - - * * * * * * * * - -Among the native animals of this country, some of them are ferocious. -The bear, tiger, panther and wolf, are of this class. The deer, the -beaver and elk, are also natives of this country. The ferocious are -sometimes known to attack the traveler, though it is not common. Those -of the milder and gregarious classes obtain their support mostly from -the bunch grass of the prairies. - -It may here be remarkd, that no grass of this country, except along some -of the river bottoms, grows in any other way than in the form of -bunches, with intermediate spaces of several inches, and often of -several feet. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - - Magnetic Poles of the Earth—Variation of the Magnetic - Needle—Phenomena of the Northern Lights. - -Captain Ross, an English navigator, left England about twenty years ago, -in pursuit of the north magnetical pole. He followd the magnetical -needle, directing its course westwardly till he arrivd at Baffin’s bay -in America, where he left his ship and traveld about two hundred miles -still farther west, at which place he determind to be the north magnetic -pole. This point being several hundred miles south of the north -geographical pole, determines its opposite or south magnetical pole to -be an equal distance north of the south geographical pole, though on the -opposite side of the earth. - -From the north magnetic pole southward, the line of coincidence, or line -of no variation as it is sometimes calld, passes through Hudson’s bay, -the state of Michigan, Ohio, and the several states lying south of -these. This line forms a perfect circle around the earth, and the -magnetic needle at any place on the earth within this circle will point -directly through the magnetical poles coincident with the extreme points -of the earth’s geographical axis. The magnetic needle along this line is -sometimes subject to slight vascillations, in consequence of the -fluctuations of electricity occasiond by the heat of the sun, or -geological differences of the earth’s surface. - -The variation of the magnetic needle in Oregon, among other things, has -attracted my attention. Surveyors of this country tell me that the -magnetical needle varies to the right of the geographical pole about 19 -deg. and 20 min. Some, however, have observd in different places a -variation of more than 20 degrees. This difference may be accounted for, -by the great amount of iron disseminated through the country. - -I have taken the trouble to draw a diagram of a section of the earth, to -ascertain what the variation of the magnetic needle would be -geometrically, at Oregon city. This corresponds, to a considerable -degree of nearness, with experiments made with the compass. Concerning -the depth to which the magnetic pole is seated in the earth, I have no -means of ascertaining. This could best be done with a dipping needle -along the line of no variation, at a suitable distance from the equator, -so that the north end of the needle may have a perfect freedom of dip. -Let the distance be ascertaind from the observer to the north magnetic -pole, as manifested at the surface, which differs not much from two -hundred miles, west of Baffin’s bay. This distance may form the base -line of a right-angled triangle. Let the surface angle at the magnetic -pole be the right angle, and the dipping needle will show the angle at -the place of the observer between the line on the surface of the earth -and the line made by the dip. The observer then has a right-angled -triangle, with sufficient data to ascertain at what depth the magnetic -pole lies below the surface of the earth. - -It would be gratifying to me, if some philosopher along the line of -coincidence would take the trouble to ascertain the depth of the -magnetic pole, and publish his experiments. Possibly, some day, a -knowledge of that fact may add to the light of science. - -The reasons why the magnetic needle at some places on the earth has a -stationary variation from the geographical pole, and at others an annual -movable variation, seems by some to be not easily accounted for, but I -am of opinion that the same reasons may be assigned for the stationary -position of the needle that are assigned for the stationary appearance -of a planet in its orbit around the sun. - -The motion of the magnetic pole around the earth, to an observer at any -one point on the earth, as at London at present, presents during its -whole circuit two stationary points or extremes to the left in its -forward, and to the right in its retrograde movement. The extreme -slowness of the magnetic pole round the earth, causes the stationary -variation of the needle to remain nearly the same for a great many -years. Hence so long as the magnetic pole continues to revolve around -the earth, every other place on the earth will give in its turn a -stationary and an annual variation. - -Soon after my arrival at Oregon city, in the fall of the year, I observd -that the central portion of that body of light calld Aurora Borealis, -was as much to the right of the north geographical pole as the variation -of the magnetic needle. I was then led to conclude that it was a -constant attendant upon the north magnetical pole, moving westward -gradually as the magnetic pole advances in that direction. - -Very evidently the Northern Lights are occasiond by emissions of -electrical light flowing from the great amount of electricity -concentrated at the north magnetical pole. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - - Curiosities of Oregon. - -It is difficult to tell, in making out a history of a country, what -would be a curiosity and what would not, to readers that are familiar -with descriptions of country scenery. I have selected a few that are -considered by some as curiosities, as follows. - - Mount Hood and its glacial sisters. - Bear Lake of Bear River. - Soda Springs. - Hot Springs. - Cascade Falls. - -Mount Hood is one of the glacial peaks of the Cascade range of -mountains. It is situated about 50 miles a little south of east from -Oregon city, from whose vicinity it can be seen, and about 30 miles -south of the Columbia river. Its height above tide water is about 11,721 -feet. Rain seldom falls upon this mountain. Whenever it is enveloped by -clouds, their contents are generally deposited in the form of snow. And -in the summer season, the spectator from a neighboring mountain may -frequently see it glistening with a brilliant white covering of snow, -when only a few minutes before it had presented a mottled appearance of -naked precipitous rocks, glacial prominences, huge caverns and deep -ravines, so rapid is the passage of the clouds across the summit of this -mountain. Alternately, during the summer season, the top of this -mountain is coverd with clouds and then illuminated with a brilliant sun -through a transparent sky. During the short season of repose from -storms, the sun pours down its intense rays upon those snows and -prominent glaciers, reducing them to water, which on its passage -downward, especially in the hottest of the summer season, frequently -deluges the whole base of the mountain, overturning and submerging to a -considerable depth beneath rocks and sand bars, many of the most lofty -and gigantic trees growing at the base and along the valley below. - -On ascending this mountain, as the traveler arrives at the line of -perpetual frost, he sees no verdure of any kind. Animals can only live -to skirt across some of its lowest glaciers to other mountains more -friendly to contribute to their support. Still advancing upward, the -glaciers become more steep, till they with the walls of precipitous -rocks, bid entire defiance to an ascension to the top of this -interesting mountain. - -In some of the lowest glaciers of Mount Hood are glacial caverns, -several hundred feet deep, coverd from sight with sometimes only a thin -covering of ice, with scarcely sufficient strength to sustain the weight -of a man. - -Mount Hood is a sample of the immense disintegrating power of -glacio-aqueous agency. It cannot be expected that otherwise than great -disintegrating power should exist where there are constant alternations -of frost and water upon rock, as is the case upon Mount Hood. From this -mountain flow several important streams of water, all of which, I -believe, are constantly filled with a thick sediment of disintegrated -rock. - -Mount Hood on the east furnishes a considerable arm of Deshutes river. -On the west, a large stream calld Sandy creek, and a part of Clackamas. -Sandy, after a few miles of westerly course, runs north and falls into -the Columbia river, a little below the Cascade falls. Another important -stream calld Dog river, flows to the north and empties into the Columbia -river above the Cascade falls. In fine, Mount Hood sits as queen of -mountains within its vicinity, and being located centrally within that -vast range of mountains, and elevated so much above all others as it is, -must necessarily distribute its waters on all sides, breaking their way -and bursting their barriers through other mountains of inferior size, -till they are finally discharged into the ocean. - -Mount Jefferson, another glacial peak, is situated centrally in the -Cascade range of mountains, about 50 miles nearly south of Mount Hood, -and about 40 miles east of the Willamet river. This glacier, as well as -Mount Hood, contributes to the waters of Deshutes on the east, and the -Willamet on the west. Its character is similar in most respects to Mount -Hood, though somewhat inferior in size. - -Mount St. Helen, on the north side of the Columbia river and about forty -miles from it, is another high towring glacier of the Cascade range. -This mountain, as seen from Oregon city, pierces the welkin high above -the horizon around. Citizens of this country say that there are -occasional emissions of smoke from its summit, though no lava of late -has been seen flowing down its declivities. No successful attempt has -been made to climb this mountain, to ascertain the size and appearance -of its crater. It is the only one in this region that appears at present -to show signs of volcanic activity. - -Mount Rainier and Mt. Baker, still farther north along the Cascade -range, are similar in character, less in size, and not very well known. - - * * * * * * * * - -Bear lake and the Mineral springs are next to receive attention as -curiosities. - -Twelve or thirteen miles west of Thomas’ fork of Bear river, is an -extensive bottom of Bear river, where is a lake of unknown depth, and -about three miles in width. Across this lake is a bar of earth, -extending entirely from one bank to its opposite, rising about three -feet above the waters of the lake, and wide enough for wagons to pass. -This lake is a short distance above the confluence of its waters with -Bear river. Its waters come from the mountains south of the lake, and -are dischargd by percolation through this bar into the lake below it. -From what I have seen of beaver dams in West Oregon, I am inclind to -think this bar was made by those animals. - - * * * * * * * * - -The Soda springs at Bear river, sixty-five miles east of Fort Hall, are -considerd by some persons a curiosity. The bottoms of Bear river, at the -springs and for several miles in extent along the emigrant route, appear -to be cavernous. In the vicinity of the springs where most of them are -located, emissions of gasses are observd from the surface of the land, -and oftentimes with a considerable explosion. The springs likewise are -constantly emitting gasses from them, as noticd by the bubbling of the -water. The river at this place appears like a boiling pot. - -The water of these springs is quite sedimentary. Numerous cones of -silent springs are seen all around, occasiond by constant accumulations -from the sediment of the waters. Some of the springs form craters or -basin-shapd tops of several feet in diameter. These springs, after -having been active a great number of years, choke up their orifices, and -become silent. One which I saw on the bank of the river, calld by some -the Steamboat spring, had nearly ceasd to flow. Its dying groans -reminded me of a dying butcherd animal. Many of the springs are -intermittent of a few seconds alternately. So soon as the gasses are -sufficiently accumulated beneath, they are dischargd, often throwing the -water to several feet. - -Some of these springs are too alkaline to be pleasant to the taste, or -even healthy. Others again, have a sufficient amount of acid in -combination to render them tolerably pleasant. I believe, however, that -none of them are as pleasant as the artificial soda of our shops. - - * * * * * * * * - -About fifty miles east of Fort Boyce, along the south side of Snake -river and near to it, are hot springs issuing from the plains. At their -sources, they are scalding hot. Not far distant from these, on the north -side of Snake river, are other similar springs. Fifteen or sixteen miles -west of Fort Boyce, at the crossing of Malheur on the emigrant road, are -other springs, some of which are so hot that a man cannot bear his hand -in them two seconds. All of the hot springs are sulphurous. - -From the volcanic character of a great portion of the country lying west -of the dividing ridge of the American continent, it may probably be -inferd that the water of these springs is heated by internal fires, not -very deep-seated. - - * * * * * * * * - -The Cascade falls are noticd by some travelers as worthy of attention. -Some remarks relative to them may not be altogether uninteresting, as -well also to correct some errors of former writers. - -Mr. Eby, a late visitor of the falls, informd me that the country above -the cascade is so nearly on a level with the country below, that were -the rocks that choke up the river at the cascade removd, the water of -the river would flow as smoothly and with as little apparent fall, as it -does for miles above or below that place. - -Immediately above the falls is an apparent subsidence of many acres of -timberd land, so that the trees are standing in very deep water. But few -of them at present remain. Visitors of the present day are of the -opinion that the apparent subsidence is not one in reality, and that the -place now submerged was once a bottom land, coverd with a dense growth -of fir, and as the rocks precipitated from their stupendous columns into -the river at that place, the waters were gradually damd up, so as to -overflow the bottom of the river above. - -The timber there submergd has become of a siliceous petrefaction, -showing the grains of the timber as perfectly as if no such petrefaction -had taken place. - -After closing my remarks relative to the natural scenery of Oregon, I am -led to suggest some ideas concerning the poor, degraded, primitive man -of the country. - - - - - INDIANS OF OREGON. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - - Their Customs, Habits and Character. - -The Indians of Oregon, notwithstanding the exertions that have been made -to improve their condition, are still a degraded race of semi-human -beings, rapidly approaching to total extinction. Such is the proneness -of the human race to indolence and vice, that it requires the whole of a -short life to make any considerable advances towards an improvement in -his natural or mental condition, even amongst the most favord portions -of the human family. - -The Indian does not appear to have the most distant conceptions of any -moral obligation towards another. He is prompted by tradition more than -by a sense of duty, and the more he becomes enlightend, the more he -becomes alive to vice. - -The fox, taken from its lair in an infantile state, is only reard and -shown to the lodgings of the domestic fowl of the barnyard, ere he -escapes from the hands of his benefactor, with his prey, to his distant -and secret abode, amongst the thicket of the forest. So the Indian. -Point him to the comforts and enjoyments of a domestic life, and he -looks upon them with indifference and disdain. Teach him that from the -plow is derivd his food, and that in due time he may reap if he faint -not, and yet if he is hungry he will resort to the potato patch of his -neighbor and dig them all up so soon as they are planted, leaving his -future well-being to the fates. - -There is but little confidence reposd in each other respecting the -safe-keeping of property, and it is impossible to make an Indian believe -that it is morally wrong to steal. The only thing that prevents them -from stealing, is the probability of being detected and punishd for it, -and that Indian is smartest, who is keenest at the business. - -At present, the few remaining Indians of Oregon are in a worse condition -than before the whites settled amongst them. Formerly, they depended -entirely on furs to keep them warm during the inclement season of the -year, but now they are partly clad in skins and partly in garments -nearly worn out, sold them by the whites for a trifling amount of labor, -or such other pay as is agreed upon. With these, they are often -amusingly and fantastically dressd. A man is sometimes seen wearing a -bonnet, wrong side before. Sometimes a woman is seen wearing a man’s -shirt, and others, again, are seen wearing a dress, reversed. Sometimes, -in the summer season, it would puzzle a Philadelphia lawyer to tell what -kind of a dress they do wear, or whether—— - -At present, there are probably not more than twenty-five Indians, who -consider the Willamet valley their home, though others, from the upper -country of the Columbia, resort to Oregon city to winter, because they -can obtain support during that season more readily, where abundant -supplies can be had at all times. - -The mode of doctoring, when any prevalent disease is among them, has a -tendency rapidly to depreciate their numbers. It is done by heating the -system as hot as they can bear, in ovens made for that purpose, along -the banks of streams, where the patient is shut in for several minutes, -with heated pebbles, until he obtains a thorough sweat. He then rushes -to the stream and plunges into the water, which cools the system so -suddenly, that hundreds live to try the experiment but a few times. - -Another depopulating mode of conduct is practicd amongst some of the -tribes, which is that of flattening the head. The opinion that the Great -Spirit can better distinguish between the aristocrat and his slave, in -another world, has led to the practice of flattening the heads of the -aristocracy, and leaving the heads of their slaves natural. This -practice is common only amongst some of the tribes of the Western -valley. Those Indians of the upper country, nominally Flat Heads, are so -only in derision. - -The mode of flattening the head, is to take the infant, at the first -dawn of its existence, and lash firmly to its back a board, somewhat -longer than the child and of suitable width, probably eight or ten -inches, for it to lie upon when placd in a prostrate position. Its arms -are brought downward to this board, and lashd so firmly that the infant -cannot stir them. The board at its back reaches two or three inches -above the head, so that the board which serves for flattening the head, -being fastend to the top of this, is brought over the head forward to -the edge of the brow. To the edges of this are fastend small cords, that -are brought back and fastend to the board behind. These cords are drawn -so tight that the board on the head forms an a acute angle at the top, -with the board on its back. In this position, the miserable infant is -kept more than three months, languishing for want of action. Sometimes, -the blood gushes out from the nostrils and ears, from the severe -pressure of the board. - -But few survive the operation. When the operation is fully accomplishd, -the head is flattend from the brow to the top of the head, though -sometimes, in after life, it becomes a little raisd at the fontanelle -and cross sutures. - -An Indian can be taught to pray, and, in fact, they do often pray to -their Tyee, or Big Spirit, as they call him, that he will give them a -supply of venison and other present supplies—but what may be considerd a -change of heart, is entirely foreign to an Indian. - -A few years ago, at the station of Mr. Lee, upon the Willamet river, -there was revival of religion, amongst whom were a considerable number -of Indians. The whites succeeded in getting them to pray for awhile, but -after they had prayd long enough, as they supposd, for a good lot of -blankets, they began to call for them. The whites told them that they -must not pray in that way. They replied, that they would not pray for -them any more, if they would not pay them for what they had done. - -The Indians at Dr. Whitman’s station, on the Walla Walla river, have -manifested, in their conduct towards him, what may truly be considerd -traits of Indian character. Like a venomous serpent, that bites the hand -that feeds it, so the Indians of that country, after incessant toil of -ten or twelve years, to teach them husbandry and the various comforts of -domestic life, stretchd forth their cruel hands, upon the 29th of -November, 1847, and murdered himself and family. - -I have long been of the opinion, that it is useless to send missionaries -to barbarous races of men, for the sake of Christianizing them, or even -civilizing them. The only benefit arising from an operation of that -kind, is to furnish a foothold for the enterprising white man, who may -follow the steps of the missionary, to seek a new home, where he may -display his wisdom, in beautifying and improving the face of nature. -Whom God has cursd, he is cursd, and whom God has blessd, truly is -blessd. - -Soon after the massacre of Dr. Whitman, the authorities of Oregon advisd -all the missionaries of the upper country to leave their fields of -operation, which they did, with the exception of Roman Catholics, who -have some localities there. - -It is difficult to determine what brought events to such a crisis as -that of the death of Dr. Whitman. It is supposd by some, that the Roman -Catholics sought an advantage to break up the Protestants at that place, -by making the Indians believe that the whites were endeavoring to -exterminate them, by introducing disease among them. - -On their way to the Western valley of Oregon, some of the emigrants, who -were afflicted with the measles, passd through Dr. Whitman’s place, and -imparted them to the Indians, from which cause, many of them died. - -The Indians are great believers in sorcery. They are of the opinion, -that the man who has power to cure, has also power to kill, by means of -witchcraft. From this belief, has arisen the custom amongst the Indians, -of killing their doctors, when any of their patients do not recover. - -Before closing the subject of the Oregon Indians, I have seen fit to -insert Mr. Spalding’s account of Dr. Whitman’s death, as given him by -his own daughter, who was present during the distressing event, which is -given by him as follows. - - - - - WAIILATPU MASSACRE. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - - Account of the murder of Dr. Whitman, as given by Rev. H. H. Spalding. - -In this communication I will commence the history of the bloody tragedy -of the 29th of November at Waiilatpu. In all such massacres there is -usually one or more escapes to tell the dreadful tale. It would seem God -rescued me from the murderer’s hand, to perform this painful office. May -kind Heaven grant that it may never again be my painful duty to record a -like tragedy. May the friends of missions never again be calld upon to -supply the places of their missionaries, cut down by the hands of those -to whom they may be sent with the blessings of the gospel of peace. -Especially may the dreadful act not again be done by the hands of those -who have been baptized in the name of the sacred Trinity, and introducd -into the Christian church. Considering all the circumstances which -attended the massacre at Waiilatpu, I think it stands first on the -catalogue of Indian crimes. The massacres committed in the first -settlements of America, were the acts of uncivilized, unchristianizd -heathens. The much lamented Dr. Whitman and esteemd lady and those who -fell with them, were murderd by the Cayuse Indians, who wishd to be -regarded a christianizd people, strictly honest, particularly friendly -to the Americans, having adopted the habits of civilizd life—with whom -my departed brother and sister had labord for more than eleven years, -had been the means under God of introducing among them numerous herds of -cattle, of planting fields of grain all through the country, had -deliverd them from their former precarious source of subsistence roots -and fish, and in their place, furnishd them, or causd them to possess in -abundance, all the comforts of life, various grains, vegetables, milk, -butter, beef, plows, &c. They had been indefatigable in their labors, to -instruct them in the principles of the Christian religion and to -introduce schools. - -The Cayuse had become a praying people. In almost every lodge the family -altar was erected. No doubt on the morning of the bloody 29th, the -murderers were scrupulous to observe their morning devotions, again at -evening, while the dead bodies of the slain lay about unburied, the food -of the fowls of heaven and the beasts of the earth. - -One of the actors of this horrible scene was a member of our church, and -while he held one of the captives as his wife, the sport of his brutal -passions, he was careful to have morning and evening prayer and to read -a portion of scripture from his book, which we printed while he was in -our school at Clear Water. - -Their sick and dead had ever been the peculiar care and receivd the -devoted attention of their missionaries. Yes my beloved associates, -whose hands had so often furnishd winding sheets and coffins for their -dead, were denied coffins and even a resting-place under the earth by -this same professed Christian people. Such are the people who have -committed the horrible murders of which it has become my painful duty to -write.—Such the end of the once promising mission among the Cayuse -Indians. - -On the 18th of November Mr. Jackson, my daughter Eliza, ten years of -age, and myself, left my place for Waiilatpu. My object was to spend a -few weeks with Dr. Whitman, visiting his people, preaching, assisting -him in his labors with the sick and dying. We were anxious to be present -at some of the meetings which the Catholic priests were holding with the -Indians to obtain locations near Waiilatpu, and to persuade the priests -if possible, to allow the Indians to say whether Catholic or Protestant -missionaries should remain among them. Should the Indians prefer the -Catholic missionaries, we would then and ever been ready to leave the -country and allow them to occupy the field unmolested. But should the -Indians prefer that the Protestant missionaries should continue, we have -ever felt the Catholics ought to leave us undisturbed. We have ever felt -that unprotected by law, we could not be safe should the Catholics come -into our field. - -The feelings of the Indians were, that both missionaries could not -occupy the same field. The Rev. Mr. Josette of the upper Catholic -mission requested of the Nez Perces, two years ago, a location near my -station. The principal chief Ellis said, “It will do for the French and -English to have two religions, as they have laws, but for Indians who -have no laws, it will not do. We have one religion with which we are -satisfied. If the Catholics come in, there will be fighting -immediately.” - -We have held ourselves ready to leave the country whenever the Indians -as a body wishd it. Dr. Whitman twice during the last year calld the -Cayuse together and told them if a majority wishd he would leave the -country at once. The Cayuse chiefs unanimously said he must not leave, -and among them were the principal persons who have staind their hands in -his blood. Dr. W. held himself ready to sell the Waiilatpu station to -the Catholic mission whenever a majority of the Cayuse might wish it, -provided that mission might wish to purchase it and the other stations, -and the mission might agree. I am not aware that the Catholic mission -ever applied to Dr. Whitman to purchase the Waiilatpu station. However -that may be, he would have proved recreant to the trust committed to him -by the American Board, had he sold the station or left it unless desird -by a majority of the people. - -A few days before I arrivd at Waiilatpu, the bishop and his priests had -held a meeting with the Cayuse at Walla-walla and laid before them again -their wish to obtain a location near the doctor’s station. Capt. Murray -informs me that he was present at that meeting, and that Tamtsaky and -Telapkaikt, said to the bishop, “That they would give him a station -already furnishd with buildings, mills, fences, &c., that it was the one -occupied by Dr. Whitman, that the doctor was a bad man and they were -going to get rid of him.” The bishop objected to taking the doctor’s -place. They then told him to come up and they would show him a place. -Accordingly, the bishop or one of his priests did so, and a place was -selected about four miles from the doctor’s station. - -On learning this, a Cayuse chief said to Telaukaikt, “Have you allowd -the Catholic priest to select a location?” the answer was “Yes.” The -chief replied, with this strong language of rebuke, “Why did you not put -the priest in the doctor’s house at once?” that is, as understood by the -Indians, “why did you not kill the doctor at once and give his property -to the priests?” This last statement I receivd from my fallen brother -the week before his death, who said, in view of this and other alarming -movements of the Catholics, “Now if the Indians do not allow us to -leave, my days are few, but if I am to fall by Catholic influence, I -believe my death will do as much good for Oregon as my life can.” - -I arrivd at the station Nov. 22d. The doctor’s large family had been -sick with the measles, and three of the children were still dangerously -ill. Mr. Osborn and his whole family were sick with the same disease. -Many of the other white families at the station were just taking the -measles. The Indians were sorely afflicted, dying every day, one, two, -and sometimes five in a day, with the dysentery which very generally -followd the measles. On the 24th Mr. Osborn’s second child died. Mrs. -Osborn and her youngest child continued very low. - -As we are approaching the eve of the awful tragedy, I will here notice -the white persons living at the station at the time of the massacre. The -doctor’s family consisted of himself and lady, Mr. Rogers, formerly our -school teacher, now studying with a view to join our mission, Mr. and -Miss Rewley, the former very sick at the time, seven orphan children of -one family by the name of Sager, (father and mother died crossing the -mountains in 1844,) the two daughters of Mr. Bridger and Mr. Meek, a -half-breed Spanish boy, whom the doctor had brought up from infancy, and -bound to the doctor by his father, and the two sons of Mr. Manson of the -H. B. Co. - -The following are the names of the families, their number and -occupation, viz. Mr. Osborn millwright, Mrs. Osborn and three children, -Mr. Camfield blacksmith, Mrs. Camfield and five children, Mr. Hall -employd building store-houses for the Indians, Mrs. Hall and five -children, Mr. Saunders school-teacher, Mrs. Saunders and five children, -Mr. Marsh miller, one child, Mrs. Hayse and two children. At the -saw-mill, twenty miles distant, Mr. Young mechanic, Mrs. Young, three -sons young men, Mr. Smith cutting saw-logs, Mrs. Smith and five -children, Mr. Hoffman employd in getting wheat for the Indians, Mr. -Sails sick, Mr. Gillian tailor. - -Most of these, contrary to the wish of the doctor, had stopd at the -station to winter on account of weak teams or sickness. The doctor had -been at considerable expense in exploring a new route from the Utilla to -the Dalls, which avoided the sands and heavy hills of the Columbia -river, led through good grass, and a nearer route. He was very -solicitous to persuade as many of the emigration as possible to pass on -to the Dalls, fearful that sickness and weak teams would compel more to -stop at the station than he could procure provisions for. I had already -packd over from my station, seventeen horse-loads of grain, expected to -pack more, from time to time through the winter. - -Very many who were persuaded to pass on to the lower country, felt -rather hard at the doctor at the time, for not allowing them to stop. I -thought myself he was over anxious. He is not to be blamd for the number -of Americans that were wintering at his station, if any blame is to be -attachd to this circumstance, but there is none, plainly because a -number of Americans’ wintering at Waiilatpu had nothing to do in -bringing about the massacre. To insinuate otherwise, is a base slander -upon the American character. That such insinuations, however, have gone -forth, I am aware, but it is for no other purpose than to divert public -attention from the true causes, and fasten it upon what was not the -cause. If Americans were the cause, why were all the Americans killd? -while the Catholics, down to the smallest child, were spard, caresd and -permitted to dwell among the murderers to this day unharmed, and even -now are commencing new stations among the Indians, while the last -families of our American missionaries are being removd from the country -by an escort from the army? The insinuation is as base and cruel as it -is absurd. - -There were also at the station three others who claimed to be Roman -Catholics, names, Nicholas Finley, Joseph Stanfield, Jo Lewis. The two -latter were in the employ of Dr. Whitman. Joseph Stanfield, a Canadian, -had crossed the mountains in ’46, had been in the employ of the doctor -from that time. At his trial before Judge Wheeler two of the widows -testified that Stanfield told them that he knew in the morning that the -massacre was to take place that day. On being taken by the sheriff, he -attempted to secrete a watch which belongd to one of the widows, also -considerable money belonging to one of the murdered young men. Jo Lewis -came into the country with the last emigration, at least from Fort Hall. -Much uncertainty hangs about this individual. To the mission he claimd -to be an Indian, born in Canada, of the Catholic faith, brought up in -the state of Maine, had spent some time in California. Among the Indians -he passd himself as a Chenook of the Catholic faith,—said that formerly -the Americans (Protestants as understood in most instances of late by -the word _Suyapu_) by ships brought poison to the lower country with a -view to destroy all the Indians. Vast multitudes were destroyd, as their -old men very well recollect—referring doubtless to the small-pox and -measels which raged throughout the territory some 35 or 40 years ago. -He, being a small child, was reserved by the Americans taken to the -States, where he had grown up, ever mindful of his native country, and -anxious to return to his own people. He told the Indians that he took -particular notice of the letters of the Dr. and myself, from this -country, told them that some of these letters spoke of this vast country -every way desirable for settlements, its healthy climate, its rich soil, -the bands of horses. Some of the letters calld for poisons by which we -could sweep off the Indians, and make way for the Americans. In -accordance with this request, he said, several bottles of poison had -been brought over by the last emigration, which had caused many deaths -among the immigrants, and was the cause of the sore sickness and -frequent deaths among the Indians, and would soon kill them all if the -Dr. and his lady and myself were not removd. This I receivd from Stikas -in his lodge 24 hours after the butchery had taken place. - -It seems that immediately on my arriving, Lewis set himself to excite -the Indians to do the dreadful deed. He told them that he overheard the -Dr. and myself consulting at night as to the most effectual way to kill -off the Indians. - -Such statements following like statements which have been sounding in -our ears, and in the ears of Indians for years, and made with so much -apparent solicitude for them, and at this time of great excitement among -the Indians, on account of the measles, had doubtless much to do in -bringing about the bloody tragedy. He took an active part in the -murders—was seen by Mr. Camfield, from his place of retreat, to go up to -the window in company with Tamtsaky, and beat them in, and soon after, -to bring out goods. - -Several times before Mrs. Whitman receivd her first wound, and after the -doctor was senseless, Jo showd himself at the window with a gun in his -hand. When Mrs. Whitman would speak to him, he would immediately go -away. He brought the children down from the school room, and collected -them in the kitchen, to be shot. When the chief gave orders not to shoot -the children, and just as Mrs. Whitman was brought out upon the settee, -where she receivd her mortal wounds, an Indian seizd Francis by the -head, dragd him out from among the children, to the door of the Indian -room, where Jo with his own hand, shot him. - -The object of Lewis was doubtless plunder. Finley has a Cayuse, or -Walla-walla wife, was campd near the doctor’s. In his lodge, the -murderers held their councils during the massacre, he being at the head. -He partook of the plunder, and is said by the Nez Perces, to have -considerable money. The part he took in the battles at the Utilla and -the Tukanan, is better known to others than myself. He is now said to be -in the Flat head country. - -On the 23d, three Indians died, including a child. The Dr. as usual had -coffins made for them, and winding sheets prepard and assistd in burying -the dead. His visits to the sick and dying, were as frequent as the -severe sickness in his and the other white families would allow. It was -most distressing to go into a lodge of some ten fires, and count 20 or -25, some in the midst of measles, others in the last stages of -dysentery, in the midst of every kind of filth, of itself sufficient to -cause sickness, with no suitable means to alleviate their almost -inconceivable sufferings, with perhaps one well person to look after the -wants of two sick ones. Every where the sick and dying were pointed to -Jesus, and the well were urgd to prepare for death. - -24th. To day, a child of Mr. Osborn’s died. We hopd that this affliction -of Providence would show the Indians that the whites, in common with -themselves, were exposd to the ravages of disease. But from the grave, -Tintinmisi, a chief, followd us to the house, and repeatd to us, the old -declaration,—“The Samh-Sismusismu, (black gowns,) every where tell us -that you are causing us to die. I do not believe it myself, but some of -the people do.” - -We told him that it was owing to cleanliness, and better nursing, that a -less number of whites than Indians died—told them, (many were now -collected,) if they listend to the false reports and drove us from the -country, they would be a ruind people. But if they preferd the Catholic -to the Protestant missions, let us know it, and we will leave the -country immediately. They said we must not leave them. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - - Same subject continud. - -25th. To-day, Mr. Jackson, Mr. Rogers and myself left for Walla-walla. -Encampd with the Walla-walla chief, Piyu-piyu Maks-maks, (Yellow Swan, -often calld Yellow Bird, or Yellow Serpent.) We had a pleasant -interview. He said the Catholics had often urgd him to leave the -Protestants, and join them, but he should never join them, as it was too -much like their old religion, worshipping men, women, clothes, -swords,—&c. They had frequently requestd of him a place for a station, -but he had refused. They had told him in reply, he must go to hell, if -he followd the Protestants. He replied that as you say the Protestants -are bad, and I am bad, sure it is better that the bad go together. He -said that they had frequently told him that we were poisoning the -Indians, that the Bishop told them it was the Americans who brought the -measles into the country, that God had sent this disease upon them, to -show his displeasure at heretics. - -This declaration, the chief thought the Bishops made in order to -prejudice the Indians against the heretics. Immediately on its being -made, the statement spread through the country like electricity. It was -in the mouth of every Indian, old and young—the great chief of the Black -gowns, (the Bishop,) tells us that the Americans brought the measles -into the country—that God sends this disease among the heretics, to show -the Indians how he hates the Americans. The excitement was intense, and -we felt our situation to be most critical,—we felt that we were in -danger from this source. - -But the difficulties in our minds were, are these tangible evidences -that we can present to the public and our Board, that will convince them -that we are in danger from this source? Now that the bloody transaction -has taken place, circumstances and facts seem to point so plainly to -this source as the source whence originated the indirect causes of the -massacre, that many are ready to exclaim, “why did you not leave your -fields before?” And even our Catholic friends seem to be so thoroughly -convincd that our situation was a dangerous one, that many of them are -loudest in exclaiming, “you should have left your fields before.” But so -entirely hidden from the eye of the Christian world, were those -influences we feard, that had we left 3 days before the massacre, the -Papists would have settld quietly through the country, the Cayuse -continued, as they have been for years, friendly to the Americans—had we -publishd to the world as a reason of our leaving that we considerd our -lives in danger from the influences which the Papists were every where -exerting upon the minds of the Indians through their prejudices and -superstitions, who would have believd us? The world, the church and the -Board would have condemnd us as cowards leaving our work before there -was danger. - -Besides, the Board have ever enjoind upon us, as also the Captain of our -salvation, to contend earnestly for the pure principles of christianity -against the errors and subverting principles of Romanism, and NOT TO -FLEE before them. - -26th. Last night a niece of the chief died. He requested me to pray and -converse with the afflicted family. He farther requested that after -arriving at the fort, I would hold myself in readiness to attend the -funeral as soon as the corpse could be taken to the fort some four miles -distant, and preparations made for burying. As we were about to leave, -the chief took me by the hand and said, his heart would ever be with the -Americans. I am happy to learn that to a good degree, (considering the -influences which have been about him,) he has kept his word. - -Reachd the fort early. Found here the “Bishop of Walla-walla” and five -priests. Three or four others had crossd to the north side of the -Columbia river, and were commencing stations on the Yankmaw river. Let -it be distinctly notied that this bishop was appointed “Bishop of -Walla-walla,” and sent into this field with his priests, while as yet -there was not a Catholic church or station, or priest (stationary) in -the whole district, but the field was entirely occupied by Protestant -missionaries, most of whom had been quietly laboring in their places for -eleven years. - -Soon after we arrivd, a messenger came into the fort stating that all -things were ready for the funeral services. Mr. Rogers accompanid me to -the grave. A canoe had been cut into parts for the coffin and its cover. - -On returning to the fort I enterd into familiar conversation with Rev. -Mr. Brouette, one of the priests, who can speak very good English, on -the subject of the “Catholic Ladder,” which has, for several years, been -distributed among our Indians, and I believe very generally through all -the tribes of Oregon. This “Ladder” and the instructions which usually -followd it, generally in the hands of half-breeds previously instructed, -declard the Roman Catholic church to be the only true church—that the -“Suyapu,” [Protestants, Americans,] Heretics, had left the true church -when Luther laid aside his black gown and cross and went after a -maid,—that we were all going down to hell,—that while we Protestants by -our poisons were causing them to die, by our instructions we were -sending them to hell. - -The excitement producd among the Indians by these measures was most -intense. It is impossible for any one who was not a constant witness to -conceive of the agitated state of the Indians when this alarm was -fastend upon their superstitious minds, and consequently of our critical -and dangerous situation. My attention had been suddenly arrested by the -outcries and wailings of a whole camp, occasiond by the arrival of some -one with an additional explanation of the “Catholic Ladder,” always -accompanied with the declaration, the American missions are causing us -to die. - -I told the priest that in self-defense and in order to counteract these -false ideas, I had prepard a chart on which was exhibited the rise of -the Papal church as predicted by Paul, 1st Timothy iv. 1-3, 2d Thes. ii. -3. I told him we understood where each other stood. He and his church -regarded and pronouncd us vile heretics and worthy to be persecuted and -expeld from the country, and reminded him of the means, the “Catholic -Ladder,” which would soon effect this object if not counteracted. On the -other hand, we Protestants regarded the Papal church as the Man of Sin, -and while I would as a neighbor afford them every facility my limited -means would allow, to aid them in the beginning in the way of -provisions, seeds, native books, &c., as I presumd they would do the -same by us in like circumstances, as a minister of what I regarded the -gospel of Christ, set for its defense in this part of the world, and -especially as having been first and long in the field, we should exert -ourselves to the utmost to enlighten and instruct the people, to -disabuse them of the errors and highly inflammatory doctrines every -where spreading through the country by this “Catholic Ladder” and its -teachers, greatly to our prejudice and danger. - -Not to do any thing like working behind their backs, the chart was -brought and spread out before the bishop and his priests, and briefly -explaind. - -The equality of the apostles as declard by their great Head, is -exhibited on this chart. The rise of the Man of Sin as foretold by Paul, -and which history and observation compel us to believe to be the church -of Rome by one markd sign, “forbidding to marry,” and the abominable sin -of idolatry in the worship of many and the bowing to the cross—is -represented in the chart, sitting in the temple of God, proclaiming -himself to be God, by the act of expiating given sins for fixd sums of -money, as 10s 6d for killing a father, brother or wife, 18s for going -into a nunnery alone, &c., and the burning of Bibles in New York in -1843, are represented. Other abominations as substantiated by history -and Catholic authors, are shown. - -The exhibition of this chart calld forth a close but friendly -discussion. I askd one question—Is it true as claimd by one of your -authors that the priest has the power to reproduce the person of the -Lord Jesus Christ? Mr. Brouette replied distinctly, that he and every -priest had power given them to recreate the person of Jesus Christ -entire, flesh, bones, blood, head, hands, feet, &c., just as he was -while on earth, and farther, they have the power to communicate the Holy -Ghost, and to give even the Father himself. My blood ran cold! I was -shockd at the horrible blasphemy of my friend, who otherwise treated me -like a gentleman. - -I told him if I could be made to believe that I had the power to -reproduce the person of Christ our Lord, I should be horribly shockd at -the idea of taking the deadly weapon and of committing murder, and of -cutting up this body and feeding it to the people, and so convert them -into a herd of cannibals, which is repeated many times every day in the -Roman Catholic church in the mass. He replied that it was the glorified -body of the Lord that they reproducd and sacrificd, and therefore it -could not be susceptible of suffering when cut up. I replied, your mass -then answers no purpose. The law of God requires as a condition of -salvation, “without shedding of blood,” i. e. without suffering, “there -is no remission of sins.” The glorified body of Christ cannot shed blood -or suffer. He then shifted back again and said, we continue the -sacrifice that was commencd on the cross. I rejoind, you admit the awful -fact. The natural, real person of our blessed Saviour was naild to the -cross and murderd by the wicked Jews. You claim to continue that murder. -Therefore by your own positions you are murderers and -cannibals,—therefore it follows unavoidably that the system of -Catholicism is downright cannibalism or base deception. - -After tea, to which Mr. McRean kindly invited us, in company with the -bishop and his priests, our party left for Waiilatpu. Encampd on the -Tushee. - -27th. Arrived at the station early. A message had arrivd from Hezekich -or Five Crows, and Tauwitwai on the Utilla, soliciting Dr. Whitman to -visit the sick in that camp. I should have mentiond under date of 25th, -that a Nez Perces in the camp of the Walla-walla chief, came to our tent -and askd if the doctor was not killd, with as much indifference as if he -had been inquiring about a horse. I replied, no. He said he heard the -doctor was to be killd. This Nez Perce was a young man from my place, in -whose statements no one ever expects to place any confidence. Had he -been apprizd of the purpose of the Cayuse to destroy all Americans, I -think he would have apprizd Mr. Jackson and myself, being our particular -friend. - -I stated this to the doctor, Mr. Kimble and others, at the station,—we -considerd it a re-iteration of what had been said for a long time, “A -ball can penetrate your body.” True it was a time of great excitement -among the people on account of the measles and dysentery which they -every where said the Catholic priests told them were causd by us. - -The doctor in one of his visits to the sick, had discovered Tamahas, -(calld the murderer for having killd several Indians, who had just -before lost his wife and who was the person, that, afterwards with two -blows upon the head, laid our lamented brother bleeding, senseless but -not lifeless, upon the floor,) in rather a suspicious attitude. From -that time, the doctor had been cautious. But there were no inflammatory -meetings among the chiefs as there had often been. For instance, when -they returnd from California two years ago after the death of the son of -the Walla-walla chief, several meetings were held to consider whether -the doctor, myself or some other American teacher, should be killd as a -set-off for Elijah. They came to the conclusion of a great majority at -least, and I believe unanimous, that no one should be killd, and pledgd -themselves in a full meeting, at which all those principal persons who -have staind their hands in the blood of their teachers, as also the -doctor and myself, were present, that we should not be injurd, and said -we must not leave the country. - -Again, when a party of Nez Perces returnd from the Catholic station -among the Pointed-hearts, for many days fiery meetings were held through -the camp, at which were re-iterated like a lesson well learnd, what they -declard one and all they had receivd from the priests at the station, -(in which were insinuations and assertions that endangerd our lives,) we -were the authors of their sickness and death, the teachers of doctrines -which would ruin the Indians. But now there were none of these meetings. -On the other hand, all the Indians appeard friendly, were constantly -coming for medicines, gruels, and other food, and warm in expressing -their gratitude to the doctor for his unwearied labors among them. - -The Cayuse at this time were in a more promising attitude than ever -before. They were enlarging their farms, fencing them better, employing -the doctor to build granaries, break up land, build fences, &c., who -kept from time to time several teams employd in this business. Their -attention to religious instruction was not abated. They were giving the -doctor no trouble as formerly, about the mills, the land, the timber, -&c. In fact, aside from the fearful movements of the Catholics crowding -in upon us, the doctor was more encouragd than at any time before. - -If any are disposd to attach blame to Dr. Whitman because he did not arm -himself and others on that day and prepare for defense, let that blame -rest upon the living,—let it rest upon the writer, and not upon the -eminently devoted, pious and highly useful missionary whose name with -that of his worthy companion I love to cherish, but whose death I am -compeld to record—whose name I know every friend of the red man, as also -every true American, will love to hand down to the coming generation, as -the name of an eminently devoted missionary and warm-hearted friend of -his suffering countrymen, immigrating to this country. - -I know that one in high authority in the Catholic church, in a late -publication, by a well meant and well studied silence, would give a very -different character to my departed brother, as also more than intimate -that the first Christian effort is yet to be made to civilize and -Christianize the Cayuse and Nez Perce Indians. The design of the -reverend gentleman in hanging out his colors so soon, was doubtless, -that his people might know where he stood. I am greatly mistaken if -there are not others who will read a lesson upon those colors. But we -must expect such things from such hands,—hands which are uplifted not -against the Protestant religion only, but against our dearest, noblest, -immortal American temple, as can be shown from their attempting to -annihilate the civil institution of marriage. - -But there is no blame to be attachd to any for neglecting to arm -ourselves. The doctor had not a load of ammunition in his house,—the -immigrants living at the station had ammunition, and I think the -doctor’s boys had a few loads. Suppose the doctor had made an attempt to -arm and defend himself,—the attempt would have been known and rousd the -Indians. Besides, Jo Lewis was in the doctor’s family, and apparently -his best friend. He would have been among the first armd for defense—and -what a defense it would have been! - -The doctor requested me to accompany him to the Utilla. Leaving dear -sister Whitman for the last time in this world, greatly exhausted by her -long and incessant watchings and labors with the sick, with three of her -children and one of Mr. Osborn’s yet dangerously ill, to require her -constant attention, Mrs. Osborn not yet able to leave her bed, and -leaving my daughter—oh horrible!—to fall a captive into the hands of -murderers, the doctor and myself started about sun-down. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - - Same subject continud. - -The Utilla is about 20 miles from Waiilatpu, prairie country, as is the -whole of the middle district of Oregon, with the exception of one or two -mountains, at intervals of one and two hundred miles. - -The night was dark, and the rain and wind beat furiously upon us. But -our interview was sweet. We little thought it was to be our last. With -feelings of deepest emotion, we calld to mind, that eleven years before, -we crossd this trail the day before we reachd Walla-walla, the end of -our seven months’ journey from New York. We little thought the journey -of life was so soon to close. We calld to mind the high hopes and -thrilling interests which had been awakend during the year that -followd—of our successful labors, and the constant devotedness of the -Indians to improvement. True, we rememberd the months of deep solicitude -we had had, occasiond by the increasing, menacing demands of the Indians -for pay for their water, their wood, their air, their lands. But much of -this had passd away, and the Cayuse, as to efforts for improvement, and -menacing the station, were in a far more encouraging condition than ever -before. - -But the principal topic of conversation during that dark night was the -danger that threatend from another source. The little cloud, as a man’s -hand, which had been hanging for some years in the distant horizon, now -assumd a darker and more alarming appearance. The Papal Bishop and his -priests seemd determind to crowd themselves upon us, and without -consultation. - -We felt that the present sickness among the Indians afforded the -Catholics a favorable opportunity to excite the Indians to drive us from -the country. And all the movements seemd to indicate that this would -soon be attempted if not executed. Besides, we are informd by their own -writers, that the oath of every priest requires him to oppose, to -persecute and to ruinate every heretic, and every other power, but the -Papal power, to the utmost of his ability. But my worthy brother -replied, “in God we put our trust,” and repeated “if I am to fall by -Roman Catholic influence, I believe my death will do as much good to -Oregon as my life can.” - -We arrivd late at the lodge of Stickas, thoroughly wet. In coming down -the hill to the lodge, my horse fell and rolld partly over me, which -causd severe pains in the head, and one leg, through the night and the -next day. We spread down our blankets by a good fire in the lodge, and -lay till morning. - -28—Sabbath. Stackas, after family worship, prepard for us a good -breakfast of potatoes, squash, fresh beef, and wheatbread of his wife’s -make. My departed brother observd how gratifying to notice the -advancement of this people—their present abundant means for comfortable -living, compard with their wretchedness and starvation, when we arrivd -among them ten years ago. - -I was particularly struck with the stillness and the order that prevaild -in the lodge, and through the village, during the Sabbath. - -The Dr. was immediately sent for, and after breakfast, he went over the -river, to visit the sick, in the villages of Tawitwai, Pa-hat-ko-ko, -(Five crows, Yumhawalis, (Growling bear.) At the hour appointed, the -Indians were collected, and I explaind to them the way of salvation. - -About 4 o’clock, the Dr. returnd much fatigued, but said the sickness in -his family, made it his duty to return home—said he had taken tea with -the Bishop and two of his priests, who had arrivd from Walla-walla, the -night before, and were occupying a house belonging to Tawitwai, (young -chief,) built for him some years ago, by Mr. Pambran—said he had invited -the Bishop and his priests to visit him, which they promisd to do in a -short time. The doctor was much pleasd with the idea—hoping that we -might come to some understanding and bring it before the people, to say -who should be their missionaries.—I consented to remain, visit the sick -and dying, and preach to the people a few days, then take my daughter -and return home. Mr. Rogers expected to return home with us, to give his -undivided attention to the native language. My dear brother bade me good -evening, and left about sundown, although he greatly needed sleep and -rest. My eyes saw him for the last time, as he passd at good speed over -the hill, in the distance—to fall with his dear companion, at their post -of duty. - -What follows, I have receivd from the children, widows and others, who -escapd the bloody massacre. I have taken every precaution, and made -extensive inquiries, and believe the statement can be relied on. - -Our devoted friend reachd home at 12 at night, and after examining the -sick, took some rest. In the morning, he was at his work, administering -to the sick, in the families of the whites and the Indians. That night -or morning, an Indian died. The doctor as usual, had a coffin and -winding sheet prepard, and assisted the friends in burying. He observd, -on returning to the house, that but two or three attended at the grave. - -As the doctor returnd from the grave, great numbers of Indians were -observd gathering about the station, but an ox had been killd, and was -being dressd, and was supposd to be the cause, as the Indians on such -occasions, always collect in great numbers, and often from a distance. - -Joseph Stanfield had brought in the ox from the plains,—which had been -shot by Francis. Messrs. Kimble, Camfield, and Hoffman, were dressing -the beef between the two houses. Mr. Saunders was in the school which he -had just calld in for the afternoon. Mr. Marsh was grinding at the mill. -Mr. Gillan was upon his tutor’s bench, in the large adobie house, calld -the mansion, a short distance from the dwelling of the doctor,—Mr. Hull -was at work, laying a floor to a room adjoining the doctor’s house. Mr. -Rogers was in the garden. Mr. Osborn and family were in the Indian room -adjoining the doctors seting room. Young Mr. Sails was sick in the -family of Mr. Camfield, who were living in the blacksmith’s shop. Young -Mr. Bewley was sick in the doctor’s house. John Sager was sitting in the -kitchen, but partially recoverd from the measles.—The doctor and his -lady, with their three sick children and a sick child of Mr. Osborn, and -Mrs. Osborn, were sitting in the dining or sitting room. Several Indians -came to the middle door, and requested the Doctor to come into the -kitchen. He did so, shutting the door after him, and taking the Bible in -which he was reading, and which I believe is now in the hands of one who -escapd, and having upon it the marks of blood.—Edward sat down by his -side, and was earnestly soliciting medicines, while Tamahas, an Indian -calld the murderer, came behind him, and drawing a pipe-tomahawk from -under his blanket, struck the doctor in the back of the head. The first -blow only stunnd him, and his head fell upon his breast, but a second, -which followd instantly upon the top of his head, brought him senseless -but not lifeless upon the floor. John, rising up, attempted to draw a -pistol. The Indians before him, rushd to the door, crying out, “he will -shoot us,” but those behind, seizd his arm, and he was thrown upon the -floor. At the same instant, he receivd several shots from every -direction, while a number with tomahawks and knives, rushd upon him, and -cut him terribly to pieces. His throat was cut, and a woollen tippet -stuck into it. Still he lingerd. In the struggle, two Indians were -wounded, one in the foot, and one in the hand, by each other. - -As soon as the tumult commencd, Mrs. Whitman, overhearing, and judging -the cause, commencd in agony, to stamp upon the floor, and wring her -hands crying out, “oh the Indians! the Indians! that Jo has done it -all!” - -Mrs. Osborn stepd into her room with her child, and in a short time, Mr. -Osborn and family were secreted under the floor. - -Without coming into the other rooms, the Indians left the kitchen, -doubtless to aid in the dreadful work without. At this moment, Mrs. -Hayse ran in from the Mansion, and with her assistance, Mrs. Whitman -drew her dying husband into the dining room, and placing his mangled, -bleeding head upon a pillow, and did all her frightful situation would -allow, to stay the blood, and revive her husband, but to no purpose—the -dreadful work was done. To every question that was put to him, he would -simply reply “no,” in a low whisper. - -Probably after he receivd the first blow, he was not sensible of his -situation. About this time, Mr. Kimble, from the beef, ran into the room -through the kitchen, and rushd up stairs with a broken arm hanging by -his side. He was followd immediately by Mr. Rogers, who in addition to a -broken arm, was tomahawkd in the side of the head, and coverd with -blood. He assisted Mrs. Whitman, in making fast all the doors, and in -removing the sick children up stairs. Jo Lewis was seen several times -approaching one of the windows with a gun, but when Mrs. W. would ask, -“Jo, what do you want?” he would flee away. - -By this time, the scene without had reachd the summit of its fury. The -screams of the fleeing, fainting women and children—the groans and -struggles of the failing, dying victims—the roar of the musketry—the -clash of war clubs,—the whistling of balls—the clouds of burning -powder,—the furious riding and rushing of naked, painted Indians,—the -unearthly yells of infuriated savages, self-maddend, like tigers, by the -smell of human blood,—all, all, require other language, and other ears -than those of civilized beings! My blood chills as I write. But I am -amazd at the self possession of dear Mrs. Whitman. In the midst of the -terrible scene, she leaves not the room of her pale, gasping husband. -Two Americans were overpowerd by crowds of savages, and hewd down by her -window. It attractted her attention but for a moment—but this afforded -an opportunity for a young Indian, who had always been particularly -favord by Mrs. Whitman, to level his gun. His victim receivd the ball -through the window in her right breast, and fell, uttering a single -groan. In a few moments, she revivd, rose and went to the settee, kneeld -in prayer. She was heard to pray for her dear children, now to be left -orphans a second time, and that her aged father and mother might be -sustaind under the terrible shock, which the news of her fate must -occasion. - -Soon after this, faint and bleeding, she was helpd into the chamber, -where were now collected Mrs. Whitman, Mrs. Kimble, Mr. Rogers, all -wounded and fainting with the loss of blood—Mr. Hayse, Mrs. Bewley, -Catharine Sager, 13 years of age, and the three sick children. - -They had scarcely gaind this temporary retreat, when the crash of the -windows and doors, the deafening war whoop took the last hope from their -fainting bosoms. - -The under rooms were plunderd of all their property, the furniture dashd -to pieces, and cast out. Jo Lewis was seen among the foremost to dash in -the windows and bring out the goods. Here a deed was perpetrated, that -exhibits the deep treachery and malignity of the Indian character— - -Telaukaikt came into the room, where the doctor lay yet breathing, and -with his hatchet, deliberately chopd his face terribly to pieces, but -still left him alive. - -Telaukaikt was a principal chief, had ever receivd markd favors from the -doctor. A store house was then about being completed for him by the -doctor. For several years he had exhibited a good christian character, -and was on probation for admission into the church. But such was the -return for untold favors, and such the end of his religion. A few days -before, it will be recollected, he had given a piece of land to the -priests, to commence a mission station within 4 miles of the Dr.’s house -and told the Bishop they were going to get rid of the Doctor—according -to Capt. McKay’s statement. The same hatchet or some other, cut several -deep gashes in the face of John, while he was yet living. - -About this time, Jo Lewis went up into the school room and sought out -the children, who were hid in the upper loft, and brought them into the -kitchen to be shot. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XV. - - - The same subject continud. - -As Francis passd by his mangled, gasping brother, he stoopd and took the -woollen tippet from the gash in the throat, when John attempted to -speak, but immediately expired. Upon this Francis turnd to his sisters, -and said, “I shall soon follow my brother.” - -The children were kept in this indescribably painful attitude for some -time. My daughter Eliza was among them and understood every word of the -Indians, who having finishd their terrible work without, were filling -the room and the doors with their guns pointed at the hearts and heads -of the children, and constantly yelling, “shall we shoot now?” - -Eliza says her blood became cold, and she could not stand, but leand -over upon the sink, covering her face with her apron that she might not -see them shoot her. - -Oh what pen can depict the feelings of these lambs? From this place, -they were removd out of the door, by the side of the Indian room, just -before Mrs. Whitman was brought out to be shot. - -Immediately on breaking into the house, the Indians calld to Mrs. -Whitman and Mr. Rogers to come down, but on reciving no answer, Tamtsaky -started to go up stairs, but discovering the end of an old gun, which -was laid over the head of the stairs, he desisted, and enterd into -conversation with those above. He urgd them to come down, assuring them -that no one should be hurt. Mrs. Whitman told him she was shot—and had -not strength to come down, besides, she feard they would kill her. -Tamtsaky expressd much sorrow that she was wounded, and promisd that no -one should be hurt, if they wo’d come down. Mrs. W. replied, “if you are -my friend, come up and see me.” He objected, saying there were Americans -hid in the chamber, with arms to kill him. Mr. Rogers, standing at the -head of the stairs, assured him there were none, and very soon, he went -up stairs, and remaind some time, apparently sympathizing with the -sufferers, addressing them in the softest words, assuring them that he -was heartily sorry for what had taken place, and advisd and urgd Mrs. -Whitman to go down and be taken over to the other house, where the -families were, and left them by assuring them that they should not be -hurt if they would go down, intimating that the young men would destroy -the house that night. About this time, the cry was heard, “we will now -burn,” “we will now burn.” - -There was no alternative. A terrible death by fire, in which all the -children and the sick in the house, would be involvd, or that Mrs. -Whitman and Mr. Rogers should throw themselves upon the promise of -Tamtsaky. They chose the latter, as every one would, and our dear, -devoted sister, leaning upon the arm of our dear brother Rogers, both -faint with the loss of blood, stepd forth from the chamber, to be——! -Oh,—my pen, speak not till forcd to name the awful deed! - -Mrs. Hayse followd to assist Mrs. Whitman, who on reaching the lower -room was laid upon a settee close by her yet dying husband. But oh how -changd! that belovd face, the home of her earthly felicity, she had a -short time before washd with her tears, and left it white with the -paleness of death, now horribly cut to pieces, the upper part hanging -over the chin, but gasping for breath. The sight was too much and she -calld for air. Our dear brother was not seen to breathe after this, -altho’ he might have lingerd some time, as darkness soon set in. The -settee was borne by Mr. Rogers and Mrs. Hayse out of the sitting-room, -through the kitchen, over the mangld body of John, through crowds of -Indians and out of the door towards the Indian room where the children -were collected. Just as the settee passd out of the door, the word was -given by the chief not to shoot the children. - -At this moment Mr. Rogers, discovering their treachery, had only time to -drop the settee, and raising his hands, exclaimd, “Oh my God,” when a -volley of guns were fird from within and without the house, a part at -sister Whitman and a part at brother Rogers, and he fell upon his face, -piercd with many balls. Sister Whitman was shot in several places, lying -upon the settee. Balls flew in every direction, striking the walls by -the sides of the children. My daughter says the guns were so near her -head that the flashes burnt her hair, and the burning powder mingled -with human gore seemd ready to suffocate them. But there was no escape. - -At this moment an Indian seizd Francis by the head, and dragd him a few -steps from the children, where Jo Lewis, drawing a pistol, cried out -“you bad boy,” and dischargd the contents into the lower part of his -throat, and laid him bleeding at the feet of the other children, who -expected every moment to mingle their bodies in the mud and blood with -their groaning, dying mother and brothers. - -The scene that follows beggars description and hurls us back amid the -darkest days of Indian atrocity and savage cruelty. A savage seizd the -blanket upon which the suffering Mrs. Whitman lay, and hurld her -groaning and struggling into the mud. The brutal hand that gave her the -first wound through the window, now seizd her by the hair of the head, -crying out “you bad woman,” gave her several blows in the face with his -whip, amid the deafning yells, the shouts and the dancing of crowds of -women and children and men, who seemd to vie with each other in pouring -the greatest possible amount of suffering and pain into the bosoms of -their dying victims. Some attempted to force their horses over the -bodies, while others with whips or clubs seemd to take fiendish delight -in beating their faces every time they struggld or groand. - -The night came on and removd the savage demons from this scene of -torturing, to the house where the captive women and children were -collecting to become for weeks the sport of their brutal passions, the -victims of their savage cruelties. But these bleeding, suffering lambs -of Christ, although piercd with many balls and horribly beaten, lingerd -on till in the night. Their dying groans were distinctly heard by Mrs. -Osborn. The voice of Mrs. Whitman and Francis died away about the same -time, soon after dark. But Mr. Rogers continud longer, his voice -becoming fainter. His last words were, “come Lord Jesus, come quickly.” -Soon after this, Mr. Osborn and family left the Indian room, and passd -on partly over the body of Francis which appeard to be lifeless. And it -is hopd that very soon after their voices ceasd, these victims of savage -cruelties found themselves at rest sweetly in the bosom of the Saviour, -their labors, their fears, their pains ended, and their joys, unending -joys, begun. - -Mr. Kimble with the three sick children, also Catharine and I believe -Miss Bewley, continud in the chamber through the night. Catharine tore -up a sheet and bound up the broken arm of Mr. Kimble. After Francis was -shot, and while the multitude were engagd in feasting their fiendish -passions on the dying agonies of Mr. Rogers, Mrs. Whitman and Francis, -Ups, Moolpool, (Walla-walla Indians in the employ of the doctor,) -collected the other children in the buttery and attempted to comfort -them. About dark they were taken over to the Mansion. - -The first firing commencd at half-past one. Brother Rogers and sister -Whitman left the chamber about sundown. - -It appears the attack was simultaneous upon the different points. Mr. -Gillan was shot upon his bench, the ball entering his breast and coming -out at his back. He was assisted by Mrs. Saunders into another room, and -expird about midnight. Mr. Marsh was shot at the mill, ran a little -distance in the direction of the doctor’s house, and fell. Mr. Saunders, -hearing the guns, rushd to the door of the school-room, where he was -seizd by several Indians who threw him upon the ground amid a shower of -balls and tomahawks. Being a very active man, he gaind his feet and ran -in the direction of his house, and although he was thrown down several -times and doubtless receivd many wounds, he gaind the end of the field -near the mansion some twenty rods from the school-room, when overpowerd -by numbers, he fell to rise no more. - -Mr. Hall was seen struggling with a single Indian for a gun which had -missd fire—he wrenchd it from the Indian and rushd to the bushes wounded -in the face, and during the afternoon and night found his way to -Walla-walla, 25 miles distant. It appears from Mr. Osborn’s statement, -that Mr. Hall remaind at Walla-walla during Tuesday, determind not to -leave, but hearing the women and children were slaughterd, in despair he -consented to be put over the river at night, and started for the lower -country. - -This corresponds with the statement which the Indians said was given to -them at the fort, and reachd my place by a Nez Perce, the next Monday, -the day before I arrivd at home. I know it has been publishd that he -could not be persuaded to remain. But is it natural to suppose a man -would willingly leave a fort well armd and defended, and expose himself -for three hundred miles through a country swarming with savages who -murderd his countrymen, and from whose hands he had barely escapd? Mr. -Hall never reachd the settlements. Indian report says he was murderd by -the Indians in the vicinity of John Day’s river. Another report says he -was drownd in the Columbia river while attempting to pass a rapid in a -canoe. The three men at the beef found themselves suddenly in the midst -of a storm of balls and flaming powder, dischargd from a forest of -muskets and pistols at their very bosoms. All three were wounded, but -neither of them fell. They fled each as he could see an opening through -the crowds. Mr. Kimble with a broken arm rushd into the doctor’s house -and chamber as stated above. Mr. Camfield ran by the blacksmith shop, -seizd his youngest child and calld to his family to follow him. They ran -into the mansion, and he rushd into the chamber, and from a small window -had a clear view of the awful scene without. Mr. Saunders was about -being cut down. Mr. Hoffman was yet falling and rising and struggling -with overpowering numbers, in the midst of clowds of burning powder, the -roar of guns, the clash of war-clubs, and the screams and yells of the -savages. He had first taken the direction of the mill, defending himself -with a single knife. The crowd was now making toward the house and he in -the midst, when two horsemen having finishd their work at some other -point, with tomahawks streaming with blood rushd upon him, and he fell, -literally cut to pieces. He was cut open through the back, and his heart -and liver taken out and found by his side on the ground, by my daughter, -two days after, who replacd them and sewd a sheet around the body before -it was, with the others, taken to the pit. - -Neither of the Catholics were in any way molested. Jo Lewis was one with -the murderers. Finley’s lodge was near the mill, where the murderers -held frequent councils during the massacre. Jo Stanfield was told by -Telaukait to put his property by itself, that the Indians might know -what was his and not molest it. He was seen to pass among the Indians as -tho’ nothing was going on. He told three of the women, two of whose -husbands were slain, that he knew the murder was going to take place -before he went after the beef, as appears from their testimony before -Judge Wheeler. He told the widow Hayse that day, if she would become his -wife the Indians would not molest her. - -When the massacre commencd, the two sons of Mr. Manson, and David, the -doctor’s half-breed Spanish boy some nine years old, were separated from -the other school children, and taken to Finley’s lodge, whence they were -taken to Fort Walla-walla. The selecting of David from the other -children in the doctor’s family, was a nice distinction, and could not -have happend by chance. Two other half-breed children were left, but -their fathers were Americans. David’s father was a Catholic, but his -mother was an Indian woman, who when her child was young, had cast it -into a pit and left it to die. The doctor learning the fact, went to the -place, took out the child and adopted it as his own, had educated and -bestowd much labor and care upon the child, and he had become a -promising boy. His father before his death had bound him to the doctor. -I am sorry to say the boy is retaind at Walla-walla, probably by the -priests, notwithstanding my remonstrance. As well might any other of the -doctor’s children have been retaind. - -Mr. Camfield remaind in the chamber till some time after dark, when the -Indians became quiet. He furnishd himself with a buffalo robe and some -provisions and bid farewell to his family, not daring to hope that they -might ever again meet in this world. He could be of no service to them -by remaining and exposing his life, which would be taken the moment one -of the murderers should discover him. - -As yet none of the male children and none of the women but Mrs. Whitman -had been killd, and the chief Telaukaikt had said they should not be -injurd. True there was but a faint hope that Mr. C. could escape from -the Indian country to a place of safety. But the most hazardous -undertaking is cheerfully espousd when life is at stake. Mr. C. took the -direction of my place, although a perfect stranger to the country and -the route. He went some four miles and secreted himself in the brush to -await a horse which Stanfield was to bring to him the next morning if he -could do it unobservd. He remaind secreted most of the day (Tuesday)—saw -Indians pass near and heard several guns in the direction of the -station, and of course had the most intense fears for the women and -children. - -As I was expected from the Utilla that day, he supposd that I had very -probably fallen. But the victims were Mr. Kimble and the young Mr. -Young,—the latter had come down from the saw-mill with lumber and was to -return immediately with provisions for the families. He had arrivd -within half a mile of the house, when the Indians met and shot him about -2 P. M.—about the time the priest arrivd in the camp. The team was turnd -loose except one ox which attempted to hook and was shot. - -Mr. Kimble remaind in the chamber through the night, suffering the most -excruciating pain from his broken arm, still more distress of soul from -the cries and moaning of the 3 sick children, not having it in his power -to relieve their sufferings. - -In the morning he resolvd to procure water for the dying children. He -made his way to the bank of the stream, where he was discoverd by an -Indian and shot at. He fell as if dead, remaind a short time and then -secreted himself in the brush. While lying on the bank, a friendly -Indian made known the fact to his wife, but advisd her not to go to him -as it would discover him to the murderers. How intense must have been -her feelings. - -About sundown Mr. Kimble left his retreat with the apparent intention of -going in to his family. He reachd the corner of the garden fence some -five rods from his door, where he was shot by Frank Askaloom, who -afterwards took his daughter, the amiable Miss Kimble, for a wife. He -claimd her as a right for having killd her father, of which he would -often speak, to her with the air and appearance of one who had done her -an invaluable favor. - -Who can attempt to measure the deep horror and anguish of soul, of a -young woman in such hands! May kind Heaven prevent a like affliction to -any of his sinful children. Her bitter weeping whenever the Indian spoke -of killing her father had the effect only to induce him to propose to -exchange her to another Indian who held another of the captive young -women as a wife. - -Why Mr. Kimble did not attempt to make his escape on Monday night, or -why, after having livd out the day on Tuesday, he did not remain in his -retreat till dark and then escape, is not known. He was heard to say on -Monday night, “It matters but little when we die if we are but prepard.” -Perhaps the pain of his arm took away the strength of resolution. -Perhaps he chose rather to die in the bosom of his family, than to make -the uncertain attempt to save his life, which could only be a living -death while wife and children remaind captives in the hands of the -murderers, the sport of their beastly passions, the victims of their -cruelty. For a stranger to reach my place one hundred and twenty miles, -traveling nights, there was no reasonable hope, and if he could, he -might end the nights of travel and pain and days of watching and hunger -only to mingle his own with the dead bodies of the slain of that -station—for what mind could divine where the work of superstition would -end, which had no power to fear, and many inducements to go forward? - -The Dalls were equally hopeless for like reasons. - -Fort Walla-walla could afford a safe retreat, but unfortunately it was -in the hands of Papists, for whom Mr. K. had the strongest fears as he -expresd himself to me the week before his death—for no other reason can -we account for his not fleeing to that fort Monday night. Had he done -so, it is not probable the fate of poor Mr. Hall would have stood alone -upon the page of history, to teach our children that Romanism is in -practice what it is in theory, UNCHANGEABLE. - -No horse arriving, Mr. Camfield left his hiding-place, and wound his way -up the narrow skirt of brush till he came to what he supposd to be the -trail to my place, about dark. In a country cut up with trails, -Providence directed his feet to the right one, which he pursued that -night and the next day, when Wednesday night found him in the deep -valley of the Taka-nan, where he slept. - -Thursday he followd the fresh tracks of cattle, which brought him at -night to the brink of Snake River bluffs, some miles below the regular -route. - -Friday morning he came to the river, and having no fear from the Nez -Perces, he calld to their camp on the opposite side and was crossd over. -The Indian driving the cattle conducted Mr. C. to my house upon one of -his horses, for which he requird his buffalo robe. That night they staid -in a camp on the Clear Water, nine miles below my house. - -Intelligence of the massacre had not yet reachd the Nez Perces, and Mr. -C. was careful to avoid any intimation. Had it been known in any of -these camps, he would have been killd. - -Saturday late in the afternoon, Mr. C. reachd my house and communicated -to Mrs. Spalding the horrible intelligence of the massacre, aggravated -by the probability that the body of her husband had been added to the -slain, as he supposd, from the report of the guns on Tuesday. If not -slain at that time, there was no human probability that I could escape. -Five days had already elapsd and I had not arrivd, which made it quite -certain that I had been killd. - -The case, of itself sufficient to overwhelm the stoutest soul, was -greatly aggravated by the fact, that her daughter was a captive in the -hands of the murderers of her husband, who would proceed immediately to -that defenseless station, to add her brother and the other Americans at -the station, to the number of the dead, and herself and remaining -children, to the already long catalogue of living victims of the savage -cruelties. - -There was scarcely the shadow of protection in the few Americans at the -place, and she was too well acquainted with the close relationship -existing between the Cayuse and Nez Perces, and the treachery of the -Indian character, to place any confidence in the Indians of the place, -except motives of self-interest should appear. - -But she was entirely in their hands. There was no other alternative, and -with the self possession and calmness of mind peculiarly her own, in -moments of imminent peril, she resolvd to make known the awful fact, and -cast herself and children into the hands of the principal men of the -place. Mr. Camfield begd of her not to do so, but evidently it was the -salvation of all at the station. Had the people of the place remaind -ignorant of the awful deed, till the report was brought by -Indians—doubtless the bloody scenes of the Waiilatpu would have been -repeated at Clear Water. The first Indian arrivd with the intelligence -of the massacre, on Monday, a Nez Perces,—doubtless a participator in -the bloody crime. But he was accompanied by a band of Nez Perces from -the camp, at which Mr. Camfield staid Friday night, with the avowd -purpose of plundering the station of all the property, which, of -course,—would have ended in killing the men, and perhaps Mrs. Spalding, -and captivating Miss Johnson and the children. They were prevented by -the chiefs, and their people of the place, to whom Mrs. S. had committed -herself. - -On the arrival of Mr. Camfield, Mr. Hart, the brother of Mrs. S. was not -at the house. Providentially Jacob and Shakantai, (Eagle,) two principal -chiefs, were at the house, to whom Mrs. S. communicated the astounding -intelligence. While one communicated the news to the camp, the other -carrid a hasty note to Mr. Craig, living ten miles up the branch. The -Indians immediately flew to the protection of Mr. S. and the house. - -Among those who showd themselves friendly were Luke and his two -brothers, members of our church, Jacob, about to be receivd into the -church, James, a Catholic, but particularly friendly to myself and -family, and most of their people. Some of old James’ people, united with -the robbers, and took considerable property. - -The Indians decided that Mrs. S. with her effects, must be removd to Mr. -Craig’s, where they were taking up their winter quarters, on account of -wood. They judgd that the Cayuse would be there without delay, and they -could not protect the family, so far from their camp. Mrs. S. proposd to -remain quiet over the Sabbath. James and one or two others remaind as a -guard. The rest retird. Mr. Craig came down late at night. Mrs. S. -endeavord to start an express to Tishimakair, the station of bros. -Walker and Eells, but no Indian could be inducd to go. She next besought -the Indians to send an express for her daughter, if found alive, and to -learn the fate of her husband.—They objected, alleging that the women -and children were without doubt all killd. She finally told them she was -jealous of every one of them, and could not feel that she had a friend -among them. It had the desird effect. The Eagle consented to undertake -it, still others threw difficulties in his way, and it was near night -the next day, before he started. - -Mr. Camfield’s wound was much inflamd, by wading the streams, and -traveling. He receivd a shot in his side from a pistol, the ball still -remaining in the flesh. - -Mr. Jackson, it will be recollected, accompanied me to Waiilatpu, and -was waiting my return from the Utilla, till Monday forenoon, when a -slight circumstance inducd him to leave for Clear Water, about three -hours before the massacre commencd. He reachd Mr. Craig’s Tuesday night, -ignorant of what had taken place, and of his own narrow escape. - -There was another band of Indians encampd in the same valley, some ten -miles from my station, headed by Joseph,—a principal chief, in the -absence of Ellis. - -Joseph was one of the first natives who gave evidence of a change of -heart, and united with the church 8 years ago, and had, up to this time, -with the exception of two or three slight deviations, exhibited a good -Christian character. - -Many of Joseph’s people were campd with him, and cultivated extensively -in the valley, and had for the last four or five years, constituted a -good portion of the Sabbath congregation—and the school. Seven of them -were members of the church, and had ever appeard friendly to the -mission. - -Their present movements however, were very suspicious.—Almost daily, -Joseph with many of his people, had been in the habit of visiting the -house. But after the arrival of the news of the massacre, neither Joseph -nor any of his people showd themselves till Monday morning, when many of -the latter, and among them, Joseph’s brother-in-law, and from the same -fire—showd themselves with the robbers, and were foremost in plundering -the buildings. - -Here was an opportunity for religion to show itself, if there was any. -Never before had temptation come to Joseph and his native brethren, in -the ch. in this dress. But now it came, and his fall, as I regard it, -and that of some others, has given to the Christian world a lesson that -should be well studied, before it again places the lives and property of -missionaries at the mercy of lawless savages, without a military force -to keep them in awe. - - - - - THINGS IN OREGON. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - - Arrival of Gov. Lane—Description of Port Astoria and vicinity—Narrow - escape from Shipwreck. - -_March 8th, 1849._—I am quietly stowd away in a private family in Oregon -city, after having roamd up and down the valley, in pursuit of -information. - -All is commotion here. Gov. Lane, from Indiana, arrivd in town the first -of this month, bringing the new government with him in his pocket up the -Willamet river in a skiff, over the Clackamas rapids. As to whether he -got out and helpd to pull the boat over the rapids or not, I have not -been informd. The big men of the place are brushing up their boots and -putting on their best clothes, as the Governor passes the streets, -hoping as he passes along, that his eye may fall upon them placidly. I -do not very well know what such things mean, though I suppose that -politicians do. - -_April 7th._—The first public mail arrivd in Oregon city, from the U. -States, by the mail steamer of San Francisco, to-day. This country -begins to be alive to maritime business—the first vessel ever built at -the Willamet falls in Oregon, is now on the stocks. Her owners say her -tunnage will be from 50 to 60 tuns burden. - -After having staid in Oregon nearly seven months, I take my departure -from Oregon city, the 10th of April, for San Francisco, by way of the -ocean. - -Port Astoria, _26th_.—To-day embarkd on board ship for San Francisco -bay, after having staid nearly two weeks at Astoria, waiting for the -ship to be in readiness to leave. My stay at this place has given me an -opportunity of learning something of this part of the country, the -difficulty of navigating the river at this part of it, and the prices of -some articles of produce, as sold here in these times of great -excitement. - - * * * * * * * * - -Port Astoria is situated about 15 miles from the mouth of the Columbia -river, on the south side of it. The place has not been improvd since its -first establishment. There are only five or six houses in the place that -have been built by the whites, excepting a storehouse or two built by -the Hudson Bay Company. The country here and around Astoria, is rugged -and unpleasant, heavily coverd with fir and hemlock, some of which is of -giant size. - -About 25 miles of the river from its mouth, is indented with bays by -various names, making a width of from 7 to 10 or 12 miles. - -At the mouth of the river, on the north, is Cape Disappointment. - -Eight miles distant, on the opposite side, is Clatsap point, sometimes -calld Point Adams. - -Cape Disappointment, by its projection from the main land, forms a -little cove, calld Baker’s bay. Here ships may lie in perfect safety. - -On the south side, higher up, at the entrance of Young into the Lewis -and Clark’s river, is Young’s bay. - -At the mouth of the Columbia river, between Cape Disappointment and -Clatsap point, is an extensive sand-bar, which renders an entrance to -the river difficult, except by experiencd navigators of the river. - -The first 15 or 20 miles of the entrance of the river, has a channel so -crooked that almost every point of compass is traversd, which makes -navigation by sail ships slow and dangerous. At every new point, ships -are obligd oftentimes to stop several days and sometimes weeks for a -change of wind. The only successful and speedy mode of traversing the -river will ultimately be by steam vessels. - -Amongst other things that have fallen within my notice whilst at -Astoria, was the price of a few articles of produce brought to this -place to sell to passengers, whilst waiting for the readiness of the -ship. Potatoes were sold at one dollar per bushel, eggs at $1 per dozen, -butter at $1 per pound. Flour a little more moderate—its price per -barrel was only $10. During my stay at Astoria, a beef was killd at -Clatsap and brought here, and sold at 12 cents for the fore, and 15 for -the hind quarters, per pound. - -_27th._—On leaving Astoria, our ship was thrown on the beach, where she -remaind during the day, occasiond by the drunkenness of our pilot. - -_Thursday, May 3d_, we left Baker’s bay for the broad ocean, with a fair -wind and high hopes of crossing the sand-bar with pleasantness and -safety. The number of souls on board was about 130. We proceeded gently -along for three-fourths of an hour, when we arrivd near the place where -the ships Shark, Vancouver and Maine were wreckd, and the wind nearly -ceasd to blow. Our ship became unmanageable, drifting by the strong tide -which was then unfavorable, and likely in a few minutes to carry us from -the channel and place us upon the sands, where the ship must inevitably -have become a wreck. - -In this critical situation, with only 18 feet of water for a ship -drawing 15, and the tide yet falling—by the energetic movement of our -officers and crew, they were enabld to stay the ship by immediately -casting anchor. After waiting more than 2 hours in this perilous -situation, the wind became of sufficient strength to justify an attempt -to make our escape by parting anchor. - -During this time of extreme anxiety, soundings were constantly kept up -both on ship and at a distance around. - -When all things were ready on board for the attempt, orders were given -and instantly the anchor with 180 feet of chain were severd from the -ship, and she under way in a retrograde course towards Cape -Disappointment. We continud our retrograde course till we arrivd as near -the cape as practicable, in consequence of a bar which projected a short -distance from it, at which point we changd our course to the south-west, -and in less than one hour we were in the broad ocean, and over all -danger from sand-bars. - -_Monday evening, 9 o’clock, May 7th._—Safely anchord in San Francisco -bay. Our passage from the time we were relievd at the Columbia bar, may -be reckond at 96 hours’ sailing. More than 12 of this was under -extremely moderate wind, though in a favorable direction. The remainder -of the way, was under a very strong breeze. It would seem then, that the -distance may be saild, with a strong wind, in about 3½ days, which is -about 560 miles, by the way of the ocean. - -To my great astonishment, on looking about on the morning of the 8th, I -counted about 60 vessels of various sizes lying in the bay, most of -which were inactive for want of men to work them, they having left for -the mines. On passing up the St. Waukeen, the course of my first visit -to the mines, I saw scatterd along at different points, many more -vessels of various sizes. - -The present head of navigation for sail ships, is a little cloth town -calld Stocton. Here were 8 or 10 more vessels lying disrobd of their -sails to make cloth houses of. This town is more than 100 miles up from -San Francisco. At this place, supplies are deposited for the mines, -which are carrid by wagons and pack animals, to the mining district, a -distance of 70 or 80 miles further, upon the tributaries of the Saint -Waukeen. - - - - - GOLD MANIA, - Or Yellow Fever, as some call it. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - - Excitement in Oregon, relative to the discovery of Gold in California. - -The discovery of the Gold District in California, has producd the -greatest excitement of any thing of a similar nature in modern days. - -The first commencement of the excitement in Oregon was about the middle -of August, 1848, and within one month’s time, nearly 2000 persons left -Oregon for that place. - -The district is said to be the richest ever known. Though it is -questionable whether the gold obtaind by Solomon was not found equally -abundant, since among so great a number of citizens as Jerusalem -furnishd, the abundance of gold in that place had reducd the value of -silver to almost nothing. - -When the news of gold in California reachd Oregon, the wheat harvest was -not yet ended, and so great was the delirium when the news arrivd, that -many of the farmers left their fields unfinishd, giving them up -gratuitously to any one who might be disposd to harvest them, or let -them waste upon the ground. - -As late as the 10th of March, 1849, the fever continud with unabated -fury, increasing in its sanguinary features as the warm season -approachd, preying upon the heart and vitals of every human being in -Oregon. - -From the 13th of Sept. last, which was the time I arrivd at Oregon city, -to the 10th of March following, not one day passd, Sundays not excepted, -without the mention by some one in my presence, of the gold speculation. - -During the remainder of my stay in Oregon city, tools of various kinds -were invented and being made at that place, ready for departure to the -mines, so soon as they might be profitably worked, on the opening of the -warm season. - -The following description of the Gold Mania is taken from the Oregon -Spectator, as quoted from the Californian— - - - GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA. - -In our paper of August 16, we devoted considerable space to the subject -of the gold mines, stating some facts in regard to their discovery, and -the manner in which the ore was collected. So well was the article -receivd by the public—then on the _qui vive_ for information about the -mines—and consequently so great the demand for our paper, that in a few -hours after publication the entire edition was disposd of. Since then we -have receivd many and urgent demands for that number of the Californian, -and this week, at the solicitation of a number of our patrons, we repeat -the substance of our former article, with some additional particulars. - -It appears that in the first part of February last, Messrs. Marshall and -Bennett were engagd with a party in erecting a saw-mill for Capt. J. A. -Sutter, on the American fork of the Sacramento river, about 40 miles -above its mouth. In excavating the tail-race, they removd the rock -during the day, and let in the water during the night, in order to wash -out the loose dirt and sand. On the morning of the 10th, after shutting -off the water, Mr. Marshall discoverd the first gold, lying upon -decomposd granite, in the bottom of the race. - -It would seem that but little doubt was entertaind of its being the real -_simon pure_, for operations immediately ceasd on the mill, and all -hands commencd searching for gold. It was soon found that gold abounded -along the American fork for a distance of 30 miles. For a time the -discoverers were the only ones aware of the fact, but the news finally -spread through the settlements. But little credit however was gaind by -the report, though occasionally a solitary “gold hunter” might be seen -stealing down to a launch with a pick and shovel, more than half ashamd -of his credulity. - -Some time during the month of May, a number of credible persons arrivd -in town from the scene of operations, bringing specimens of the ore, and -stating that those engagd in collecting the precious metal were making -from $3 to $10 per day. - -Then commencd the grand rush! - -The inhabitants throughout the territory were in commotion. Large -companies of men, women and children could be seen on every road leading -to the mines, their wagons loaded down with tools for digging, -provisions, &c. Launch after launch left the wharves of our city, -crowded with passengers and freight for the Sacramento. - -Mechanical operations of every kind ceasd—whole streets, that were but a -week before alive with a busy population, were entirely deserted, and -the place wore the appearance of a city that had been suddenly visited -by a devastating plague. To cap the climax, newspapers were obligd to -stop printing for want of readers. - -Meantime our mercantile friends were doing an unusual “stroke” of -business. Every arrival from the mining district brought more or less -gold dust, the major part of which immediately passd into the hands of -the merchants for goods, &c. Immense quantities of merchandize were -conveyd to the mines, until it became a matter of astonishment where so -much could be disposd of. During the first eight weeks of the “golden -times” the receipts at this place in gold dust amounted to $250,000. For -the eight weeks ending at this date, they were $600,000. - -The number of persons now engagd in gold hunting, will probably exceed -6000, including Indians, and one ounce per day, is the lowest average we -can put for each person, while many collect their hundreds of dollars, -for a number of days in succession, and instances have been known where -one individual has collected from $1500, to $1800 worth of pure gold in -a day. - -Explorations have been progressing, and it is now fully ascertaind that -gold exists on both sides of the Sierra Nevada from lat. 41 North, to as -far South, as the head waters of the San Joaquin river, a distance of -400 miles in length, and 100 in breadth. Farther than this has not been -explord, but from the nature of the country beyond the sources of the -San Joaquin, we doubt not gold will also be found there in equal -abundance. The gold region already known, is however sufficiently -extensive to give profitable employment to 100,000 persons for -generations to come. The ore is in a virgin state, disseminated in small -doses, and is found in three distinct deposits,—sand and graveld beds, -on decomposd granite, and intermixd with a kind of slate. - -For a long time subsequent to the discovery of the mines,—the only -implements usd in washing the gold, were large tin pans, or Indian -baskets. Latterly, ‘machines were usd—at first, a rough log hollowd out -(in some, instances,) by burning and scraping with a butcher -knife—afterwards, more finishd ones made their appearance, built of red -wood boards, in the shape of an ordinary trough, about ten feet long, -and two feet wide at the top, with a riddle or sive at one end to catch -the larger gravel, and three or four small bars at the bottom, about ½ -an inch high, to keep the gold from going out with the dirt and water at -the lower end. This machine is set upon rockers,—which gives a half -rotary motion to the dirt and water inside.’—Four men are requisite to -work one of these machines properly. - -Within the past month, many sick persons from the mines have arrivd at -this place, and scarcely a launch comes down the Sacramento, without -more or less sick persons on board,—while some die on the river. The -very natural inference drawn from this, by those who have never been at -the mines, is, that they lie in a sickly section of the country, and -those at work there, are in daily expectation of being sick. In our -opinion,—however, nothing can be farther from the truth. As far as our -experience goes, it is on the large rivers only, where disease prevails, -and in passing up and down upon them, the person not in perfect health -is almost invariably the one to become sick.—We have observd but few, -very few cases of sickness in the immediate neighborhood of the mines, -but such as we believe would have occurd under similar circumstances in -any other climate. Let the miner pass the Sacramento safely, (and we -would almost insure any person’s doing so that was perfectly regular and -temperate in all his habits,)—let him not, when he arrives at the mines, -work as though he was privilegd to operate for a limited time only, but -poco poco, resting at proper intervals,—let him abstain from the free -use of intoxicating drinks, living upon wholesome food,—avoiding, for -instance, half baked bread—let him sleep under the shelter of a tent, -with warm bedding,—and if, after following our advice in all these -particulars, the gold hunter becomes sick, why—we do not know anything -about the matter. - - - - - CALIFORNIA GOLD MINES DESCRIBED. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - - Geography of the Gold District of Alta California. - -From recent searches for gold in Northern California, it appears that -the present gold district is comprisd, nearly all of it, within the -following boundary. It lies on the western declivity of the Sierra -Neveda range of mountains, and gold is sought for along the tributaries -of the great Sacramento river in the northern, and the St. Waukeen river -in the southern part of Northern or Upper California. - -The names of the tributaries of the St. Waukeen, beginning with the most -northern one, are as follows. Makelemas, which unites with the Saint -Waukeen, near its confluence with the Sacramento. Next south, is -Calaveras. South of this, is Stanislaus. The next important river, is -Twalamy. Still farther south, a distance of 20 or 25 miles, is a -considerable stream, calld Merced, or River of Mercy. South of Merced, -is another, calld Mereposa, though I believe this is dry part of the -year. These constitute the principal mountain streams, tributary to the -St. Waukeen. - -The names of the rivers in the northern mining district, tributaries to -the Sacramento, are, first and nearest the confluence of the Sacramento -with the St. Waukeen, the Cosumnes. Next northward, the American river, -the largest tributary to the Sacramento. It has several forks, calld -North, South and Middle forks of the American river. Next, Rio de los -Plumos or Feather river. Still farther north, are Bear, Quesnels and -Sycamore rivers. - -The length from north to south, of the present gold district, cannot -well be computed at more than 400 miles, lying within the latitudes of -36 and 42 deg. north. In its width, which is mostly containd within a -distance of from 20 to 30 miles, it traverses the middle portion of the -western declivity of the aforementiond range of mountains, though miners -assert that gold has been found sparingly, high up some of the mountain -streams, toward its axis. - -The whole surface of the gold district presents one continud scene of -uneven country. Much of it, the hills soar far above the intervening -valleys below—and along some of the principal tributaries, for miles in -length, very deep kanions are formd. - -The water of the large streams is very pure and healthy, being mostly -from the melted snows of the mountain. During the summer season it -seldom rains, and the rivers continue to fall, till quite along into the -winter season. After the rainy season commences, which is most powerful -toward the summit of the mountains, floods are often witnessd low down -the streams, where not a single drop of water has fallen for months. -These floods descend with a mighty rush, and often surprise the miner -before he is able to remove his mining implements from the bed of a -stream. - -The mining district is coverd with a thin growth of scrub oaks and -yellow pine. The earth is divested of soil, except sparingly in some of -the valleys, being of a reddish color, by the decomposition of rocks -containing iron. - -The climate is so dry during summer, that little grass grows in any part -of the mines. Nauseous exhalations are therefore excluded, and the -atmosphere is quite healthy. In some parts of the mines the miners -become sick, but it is mostly attributable to their treatment with -themselves. Through the summer months, the days are warm but the nights -are cool, and but few nights occur in which a man does not need -considerable night clothing toward morning. - - - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - - The Geology of the Gold District of California, with the probable - cause of the production of Gold to the surface of the earth. - -The rocks of Golden California, in common with the whole western -declivity of the Sierra Neveda mountains, are principally composd of -primary, stratified, slate rocks. Some of these rocks are talcose slate. -Others are more silicious, approaching even to coarsish sandstone slate, -of various colors. - -Before confining the reader expressly to the gold district, a few -remarks relative to that portion of California lying west of the Neveda -mountains to the valley of the great Sacramento and St. Waukeen, may -afford some light on the subject of that part of the western declivity -lying within the seat of mining operations. The slate rock on the -western side of the mountain range, from its axis to its base, is tilted -up a little more than perpendicularly outward from the axis of the -mountain, a distance of more than 60 miles in width, and traverses the -whole range, as far north and south as the present mines extend, in -lines parallel to the course of the mountain’s axis. - -At the base of the mountain, commences a tertiary deposit of about 20 -miles in width, which, with an alluvial deposit of about 20 more in -width, to the great rivers of the valley, hides from sight the remaining -portion of tilted rocks, so that the entire width of the tilted strata -can never exactly be ascertaind. But if a mountain range like the one -under consideration, is formd by the furrowd and ridgd condition of the -earth’s crust, by conforming to a diminishd molten nucleus within, from -refrigeration of its heat, it may be expected that the whole declivity, -from its axis or highest point to its lowest or mid valley, may be all -of it tilted up in the same manner as that portion which is presented to -sight. If this be fact, we are then apprizd that a portion of the -earth’s crust must have had a thickness of full 100 miles, by measuring -across the tilted rocks, from the central valley, to the top of the -mountain, eastward,—a fact not hitherto believd by geologists, from -experiments made upon the increase of downward heat, to where the crust -must necessarily become molten. - -As so many and various opinions of the tilted condition of primary -stratified rocks have been advancd among the visitants of the gold -district of California, a few conflicting opinions may serve in some -degree to satisfy the mind of the curious. - -It is the belief of some, that rocks cannot have become tilted without -the expansive powr of volcanic agency. Hence, on viewing the country -around, they imagine they see successions of craters, formd all over the -western declivity of the Neveda mountains, and in some places, -profusions of scoria bestrewing the ground. For my own part, I must -confess that I have seen nothing in my ramblings to justify a belief -that volcanic agency any where has existed so as to produce the present -appearance of those rocks. - -Those persons imagining volcanic agency in those parts, are not aware -that intense heat destroys stratification, for in the middle of the -craters of some of their imaginary volcanoes, the stratification is as -perfect as in any other portion of the tilted district, and they are not -apprizd that in such case a discrepancy must therefore exist. - -After the tilting of those rocks had occurd, it would not be improbable, -with such an enormous crust resting entirely upon a liquid, molten -nucleus, that many undulations in it should occur, and in many instances -the crust should become weakend and even sunderd apart by the severe -strain. Into fissures so formd, granite, sandstone and conglomerated -rocks, may have subsequently been intruded, presenting, therefore, to -persons unacquainted with such rocks, the appearances of craters, -scoria, &c. In some parts of New England, primary stratified rocks are -tilted up confusedly, having no regular line of strike. In some cases, -the dynamics employd may have been volcanic, or they may have been -paroxysmal, acting from time to time, till those rocks were thrown into -their present condition. But tilted rocks that have a regular line of -strike, must have a regular agency to place them in such condition. -Hence, then, considering the perfect parallelism of the tilted rocks of -Golden California with the mountain axis, it seems to follow, that an -exceedingly slow and regular movement of the tilting of those rocks must -have occurd. - -Another consideration of the western declivity of the Neveda mountains, -is in relation to the formation of its rivers. - -Almost invariably, the rivers of Oregon were formd by an expansive force -from beneath, but the rivers of California were formd by undulations in -the earth’s crust, which is well proven by the entire passage of -unbroken strata across the beds of streams. Such condition of its rocks, -is also another proof against volcanic agency in those parts. - - * * * * * * * * - -The inquiring mind may now be led to the subject of Quartz Rock, -containd among the slate rock of the gold district. - -The quartz rock of the gold region is mostly white, though some of it is -of the carnelian order, whilst some is translucent, and other specimens -are entirely transparent. The carnelian appearance of some of the quartz -seems to have been nothing more than the circulation of water containing -the red oxide of iron, through the cracks of the broken quartz, till the -rock became tingd with it. The transparent variety is crystalizd, and is -found only sparingly. - -Quartz is found interstratified amongst the tilted slate, varying from -less than one quarter of an inch in thickness to several feet, and in -some places even to rods, penetrating the slate indefinitely downward. - -Although quartz is mostly seen lying in a position parallel with the -stratified slate rock, yet in some instances it is found crossing it -diagonally. - -To account for the formation of quartz and its occupying its present -position in the gold district, is to account also for the formation and -production of gold to the surface of the earth, as is satisfactorily -believd by all. It is hard to account for much of the works of nature. -If it be considerd, that the quartz veins of the gold district be of -aqueous origin, that is, formd by infiltration, or the percolation of -silicious water into unoccupied spaces, till they are completely filld -with silicious sediment, so as to become rock, we then have to account -for its existing there in a friable state, which is hard to conceive, -since a formation by aqueous agency would most likely produce solid -rock. - -It is equally hard to see how gold can be found imbedded in solid masses -in those quartz veins, since, if by the percolation of the water, quartz -was producd there, so also must the gold have been producd by -infiltration—and in such case, it must have been disseminated through -the whole rock, giving hues of various shades, as is the case with iron -in a soluble state. - -Another objection to the formation of the quartz of the gold district by -infiltration, is, that it is not generally transparent, since the -percolation of silicious water through cold and silent places will most -naturally produce such result. It is most probable that the crystalizd -portion of those rocks was formd from silicious water, after the -original deposit. - -It has been asserted by some miners, that they have seen gold in a state -of formation, by the percolation of water over quartz rock. Those men -are probably such as believe that quartz is the mother of gold—and by -the way, I should like to have them tell me also what the father was. -They say that the yellow appearance of the mud and other sedimentary -matter, which they have seen passing through quartz veins, is gold in a -state of formation. Perhaps they might allow of a correction in their -minds on that subject, if they were told that the yellow appearance they -saw was nothing more than decomposd iron—probably the chromate of it. - -Another view of the subject may be taken, somewhat like the following. -It may be considerd that the quartz of the gold district was formd -previous to the tilting up of the slate rock, by alternations of tabular -masses with the slate. - -Some objections to this mode also naturally arise. One objection is, -that there are instances of quartz veins traversing the stratified slate -rock diagonally. Another is, that it cannot well be conceivd that so -thin layers, as is the case with some of the quartz rock, can well be -formd in a tabular way. And if the quartz had been formd by alternate -layers with the stratified slate, it must of necessity have been of -aqueous origin, and also the gold. - -The last view I shall take of the quartz, as found interstratified with -the slate rock, is, that the slate rock is of aqueous origin, and the -quartz rock of igneous origin, intruded from beneath after the tilting -up of the slate. - -In the formation of stratified rocks, the planes of stratification, or -sides facing each other, are never firmly united together, being formd -by depositions from water at different times, so that by subsequent -movements they are liable to be sunderd apart. If it now be considerd -the enormity of a massive crust of earth resting upon a molten nucleus, -it becomes easy to see how intrusions upward of melted matter can take -place amongst stratified rocks, and the many undulatory movements of the -rocks, as appear in the mining district, only give facility to its -accomplishment. - -If it be taken for fact, that the quartz of the mining district was -intruded in a melted state, it must also be considerd that gold was -intruded with it. To account for the friable state of the quartz, -moisture must be supposd to have been present, whilst the quartz was in -a heated state. - -Such a state of things would produce a disintegration of the quartz -rock, and set at liberty the imbedded gold, to be carrid downward by -gravitation from the hills into ravines, creeks and rivers. To account -next, for the difference between massive imbedded gold in quartz rock, -and gold disseminated in small particles, needs only to consider the -quartz acting as a flux during a state of fusion, to bring the gold -together, in the same manner as borax, glass or quartz will do in the -artist’s crucible—and the only probable difference between the gold of -California and that of Georgia, is, during a melted state of the quartz, -a higher degree of heat existed in the quartz of California than that of -Georgia, thereby bringing about a more perfect work of separation -between the quartz and the gold. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XX. - - - Three varieties of Gold, with their distinctions, and the reasons - given why they are found in separate localities.—Philosophy of running - water. - - - FIRST VARIETY. - -The first variety of Gold may be considerd as that which is in dry -ravines, or between hills, where there is no running water, except in -the time of showers, or the melting of snows.—This variety is calld dry -ravine or angular gold, from the fact that whatever be its form, whether -in plates or heavy solid masses, or in thin scales,—the edges are all -sharp and angular, as nature formd it, having never been rounded off by -attrition among moving pebbles or sand, in violent streams of water. The -agent of deposit seems to have been mostly that of gravitation during -the decomposition of the rocks of the hills containing gold, aided -probably by the moistening influences of rains upon the alluvium of the -hills, and the general movement of alluvium from higher to lower levels. -When once deposited in these situations, it never after receives a -secondary removal, except by the hand of the miner. - -Dry ravine deposits vary in their advantages for obtaining gold, -according to the slope of the hills, through which the ravine passes. At -the heads of ravines, where the country is but an undulating one, of -moderate hills, and wide-spread valleys, the deposits are generally so -disseminated, that but little advantages are gaind, by searching for -gold in such situations. - -Downward, towards the mouths of ravines, where the hills are in close -contiguity, gold is deposited in a line along the center of ravines, -varying somewhat in richness, according to the richness of the adjoining -hills that deposited it, or the inclination, or basin-shapd appearance -of the ravine along its course to its mouth. If ravines are of rapid -descent from their sources to their outlets, they mostly contribute -their gold to the streams into which they empty themselves. - - - SECOND VARIETY - -The second variety of gold is that which is creek-washd,—the corners and -edges of which are rounded off by attrition among moving pebbles and -sand of the tertiary deposits of creeks, during the time of freshets. -This gold, whether found in plates, or rounded masses, is most of it too -heavy to float in running water, being carrid onward to its place of -rest, by the united agency of gravitation, moving water, and the -tertiary sediment. - -The creeks and large rivers receive their gold from the mouths of -ravines and hills contiguous to the creeks and rivers. - -Gold is found in dry ravines, creeks, and in basins of rivers, weighing -several ounces. - -In some places along the creeks, the miner finds angular gold deposited -in the banks of the streams at the foot of a hill, where it had not -slidden down sufficiently far to reach the power of the waters of the -stream. - -Lost, or erratic gold is sometimes found in the creeks among the -creek-washd sand and gravel of the stream, being subject to occasional -removals, by subsequent freshets. Such gold seems to be on its way to -its final deposit or resting place in situations where subsequent -freshets can take no effect upon it for further removal. - -Some of this gold is in pieces of several dollars value, but most of it -is in fine grains, with a mixture of floating gold. - -The fine gold is found in situations above the rock, in deposits of -loose sand, where every violent freshet gives it another removal, till -it is ultimately carrid downward and deposited in the bars of the large -rivers. - - - THIRD VARIETY. - -The third variety of gold is that which may be denominated bar, scale, -or floating gold. This gold is found in the tertiary deposits, commonly -calld bars of the large streams flowing down from the Neveda range of -mountains. Hence the name of bar gold. - -Its form is that of very thin scales, which causes it to float in waters -that are highly agitated. Hence also, the names of scale, and floating -gold. - -This gold is seldom found in pieces worth more than a dollar, and is -rounded off by attrition, the same as the creek-washd gold. - -The several varieties here describd, were the same, only differing in -form, in the original rock—but the several agents of deposit, have -separated them into separate classes, according to the several -capacities of gold to receive the power of the several depositing -agents. Hence, the finest floating gold is found lowest down the -principal rivers, where it is deposited. Creek-washd gold, being heavy, -is never movd very far down the stream, from where it was first -deposited into it—and dry ravine gold, having still a little different -agent from the others, has never been movd but a very short distance. - - * * * * * * * * - -If no more could be said of water, than of other matter of the earth, -that it seeks rest by gravitation, in common with the harder portions of -matter, but little of its influences could ever be known, to what is now -apparent, when viewd in all its bearings. But the fluidity of water, -gives it advantages over other matter, in possessing movements, which -the latter can never receive—such as lateral motion, capillary -attraction, great expansion by heat, aerial passages from rare to dense -mediums, thereby giving a new preparation to descend in the form of rain -or snow, to restore again its former equilibrium. - -Running water, in the light here intended to be explaind, is that which -flows down rivers and creeks, from higher to lower levels. Water, like -all other substances, will fall perpendicularly from higher to lower -levels, if there be no interposing obstacle. But as the beds of streams -descend like an inclind plane, from their sources to their mouths, water -is forcd over them by the power of gravitation, till it arrives at a -level with other surrounding water, and is thereby prevented from -descending further. Now in the movement of water, along its downward -passage, many considerations arise. - -First, if water were made to pass downward thro’ a straight duct or -channel, whose lateral and vertical sides were perfectly smooth, so that -no friction could exist between the water and the trough or duct that -containd it, there would be no eddy formd along its sides, for the water -would all of it have a straight forward, and downward movement. - -But as the bottom and edges of streams are rough and uneven, very -frequent obstructions to water occur. Places so obstructed, are the -eddies or partial eddies, so commonly observable in streams of running -water. - -If an observer stands on the bank of a creek, during a time of high -water, where there is much irregularity and unevenness of its bottom, he -will see in some places, that the water is nearly motionless—in others, -a whirling round of the water,—in others, a retrograde or up stream -motion. Under all the circumstances of these several appearances of the -water, those places that are the most quiet, approach nearest to the -most perfect eddies. - -Wherever a bend in a creek occurs, the water, by an opposing bank, is -forcd to take a new direction, passing downward, along on its inclind, -though uneven bottom. The opposing bank stops a portion of the flowing -waters, and causes them to turn back, along the shore of the creek, -producing, thereby,—a section of inactive waters, between those of the -downward and those of the upward course. - -Again, if a lateral stream of water flows into a creek, similar or -nearly so in magnitude, the two partially opposing currents form an eddy -in the upper angle of the two, and an eddy of less magnitude, is also -formd in the angle of the two, on the lower side of the lateral stream. - -When water passes over a reef of rock, that traverses entirely across -the stream, like a mill dam, the central waters or current cannot well -form an eddy immediately below the reef, on account of its impetuous -movement—though laterally, towards the banks, partial quietness of the -water may exist. - -If an obstacle, as a rock or other body, protrude in the current of a -creek, so high that water is forcd around it, instead of running over -it, an eddy is formd immediately below it, in magnitude according to the -size of the obstacle. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XXI. - - - Mode of searching for Gold in California. - -Rock gold, or that which is disseminated in dust or fine particles -amongst quartz rock, being so rare in California, but little attention -is paid to searching for it in such situations. - - - _Mode of Searching for the First Variety._ - -The miner, in prospecting for the first variety, or dry ravine gold, -selects a situation where, judging from the appearance of the hills, or -the slope of the ravine likely to contain gold, it may be found most -abundant. He commences his excavation at the center of the ravine, by -digging downward till he arrives in most cases at the rock on which the -deposit was made, which varies from 2 to 10 or 15 feet in depth. He then -prospects outward toward the hills till he arrives at the line of -deposit, in case any deposit there exists. - -After having found a lead of gold, he excavates upward and downward the -ravine, being careful whilst progressing along, to watch the several -meanderings of the lead, which are likely to occur even in very short -distances. - -The miner never need be long at a loss to determine whether there be -gold in the place where he is prospecting. If gold exists only in -moderate quantities, the pick will generally detect it by occasionally -throwing out into view pieces of gold, even when they are quite small. -In digging in dry ravines, the miner, after having arrivd within a few -inches of the rock where he expects to find gold, tries the earth by -washing some of it. If he finds no gold, all of the earth above this -place is thrown away as useless. He then continues to dig downward, -trying the dirt at short intervals, till he finds gold in his washings. -He then is careful to save and wash all of the remainder that lies above -the rock, and even to pick off a few inches from the top of some rocks -that are loose and open enough to receive gold in some of their -crevices, carefully saving and washing the whole. - -In some instances in dry ravines, where slate rock occurs, it is -decomposd into clay, to a considerable depth, from the vast amount of -time elapsd since it has been placd in its present situation. Where such -decomposition has occurd, it is useless to penetrate downward into it, -in search of gold, as the gold was deposited most generally in a strong -iron deposit, previous to the decomposition of the rock. This strong -iron deposit is formd of soluble iron, amongst which the gold is -mechanically entangld and there held, unless the iron becomes again -soluble and leaves the gold to settle down by gravitation into the -decomposd rock below. Cases of the second solubility of the iron do not -often occur in dry ravines. - - - _Mode of Searching for the Second Variety._ - -It is more difficult to point out a successful mode of searching for -gold of the second variety than either of the other two. Yet -notwithstanding the difficulties attending it, some hints may be given, -useful to the miner, who has previously become in some degree acquainted -with the philosophy of running water and the nature of tertiary -deposits. - -Those creeks of intermediate size between dry ravines, and the large -rivers flowing down from the mountains, though dry or nearly so at some -seasons of the year, are powrful in times of heavy rains or the rapid -melting of snows, as is evident from the position of some heavy rocks in -those streams, which none other agent the powr of a mighty stream could -have placd there. - -In prospecting for gold in those creeks, the miner may select a position -which he judges to be the channel of the creek, or that portion of it -where the greatest powr of water is exerted, and commence digging -downward, till he arrives at the rock over which various tertiary -sediment has flowd, and if he finds the coarse gravel and sand through -which he passes, entirely down to the rock, cleanly washd of alluvium, -he may fairly conclude that he is in the current of that stream, or -where the water passes with greatest force. In those situations, he -rarely finds gold, or if he does, it is in sparing quantities. - -If upon arriving at the rock, he finds a cross reef or ledge rock, -rising one foot or more above the rocks downward stream from his -position, he may then prospect outward either way toward the banks of -the creek, keeping close to the rock on the lower side, till he arrives -a little outward from the current where the waters formd an eddy, as -denoted by a mixture of alluvium with the sand and gravel of the creek. -In those situations, he may expect to find gold. If he finds gold in -such a locality, he may prospect outward toward the banks of the creek, -till he has exhausted the whole deposit. - -As the tilted rocks of the gold district have universally one course, -and as creeks meander across them in nearly every possible direction, -there are chances in many places for reefs of rocks to traverse the beds -of creeks, directly along their channels. Under such circumstances, but -little gold has been deposited. If the miner continues his search along -the creek downward, till he arrives at a bend in it, where the water is -forcd over such reefs, a little outward from the channel, gold is often -found in great abundance—watching carefully whilst excavating the earth -in such places, to prospect the lower side of any reefs that may be -found there. - -If a rock of several feet in hight traverse crosswise the whole width of -a creek, so that the only passage for the water of the stream is over -it, like the fall of a mill-dam, its force seldom allows gold to be -deposited near to it. But a short distance below, where the first quiet -waters occurd, gold may be found in lateral and central pockets and -little basin-shapd hollows of the rock at the bottom of creek deposits. - -Again, if a rock project from any portion of the stream, so high that -water cannot run over it but is forcd around it, an eddy is in such case -formd immediately below it, in which situation gold may be expected to -be found. - -In some situations, along some of the creeks, as at Sullivan’s camp, on -one of the tributaries of the St. Waukeen, the slate rock, on which the -gold was deposited, has since been decomposd to a considerable depth -below the tertiary deposit. It would seem that a second solubility of -the iron deposits had taken place, and liberated the gold to settle down -into the decomposd rock. In such situations, the miner continues to -prospect downward, as long as he finds gold abundant enough to reward -his labors. - -Creek-washd gold is sometimes found higher up in the banks from the -current of creeks than the experiencd miner is aware of, but the man -acquainted with the appearance of creek-worn pebbles is never at a loss -to determine the agent that placd them there—and if, in such situations, -he finds rounded, creek worn pebbles, he may conclude that the pebbles -and gold also were deposited there by water. In such cases, it becomes -the miner to examine the bearing and level of the creek above such -place, and see if the creek may not some day have formd an eddy there, -and deposited its various contents. If, still higher up in the bank, he -finds gold entirely angular, he may conclude that it has slidden down -from the hill above. - -Another thing to be observd by the miner, relative to creek-gold, is, -that in prospecting up and down creeks for gold,—he carefully observe -where a level expanse is formd at the foot of a cascade. Near the head -of such expanse, between the cascade above, and the next one below, he -will find gold more abundant than toward the lower end of such expanse. - -In searching for eddies of creeks, where the greatest amount of gold is -often deposited, the miner should bear in mind that eddies formd in time -of freshets, are most likely to contain the most and heaviest gold, from -the fact that much power is requird to move heavy gold, and tertiary -sediment. - - - _Mode of searching for the Third Variety._ - -To obtain a knowledge of prospecting for bar gold, requires also a -knowledge of the philosophy of running waters—yet gold is prospected -with less difficulty in the bars of large rivers than creek-gold. - -As the bar gold is very light and thin, it is subject to the various -freaks of running water, in which it is mechanically suspended, during -times of freshets. In prospecting therefore, for gold along the bars of -rivers, the principal thing to be attended to, is the formation of -eddies along those streams, which, if the edges of the water were -straight and unbroken, through the length of a bar, would also be formd -along in straight lines but a short distance from shore, or outer edge -of the water. These eddies are the intermediate line between the -downward current of the stream, and the retrograde or upward movement of -the water along the shore, where water is nearly in a quiescent state. - -But as the edges of streams are rough and uneven, the eddies are also -formd uneven. Hence, a deposit of gold in those eddies, is not straight, -but varies according to the unevenness of the shore. - -Such a line of quiet water, is the only deposit of bar gold which is -likely to be richest, near the heads of bars. - -The best method of prospecting for bar gold, is to commence an -excavation, a short distance out from the water of the river, near the -head of a bar, digging downward but a short distance among the sand and -gravel, occasionally washing the earth.—And if gold is found, progress -toward and from the river, till the richest deposit is found. Then -change the course upward and downward the river, and continue to -prospect as long as gold is abundant enough to pay for working. - -As this gold is subject to subsequent removals by every succeeding -freshet, it never gets deeply embedded in any solid tertiary deposits. -Hence, it is most usually found among loose sand and gravel, near the -surface. - -This search should be made when the water of rivers is quite low, which -time is also best in searching for the other two varieties. - -If along a line of bar deposit, a rock is found protruding high—gold may -be expected more abundant immediately below it, than elsewhere. - -To those searching for gold along the bars of rivers, it was at first, -not a little surprising to learn that but little gold was deposited -toward the center of the stream—but on reflection,—it will be seen that -the water is too violent to admit floating gold to come to rest in such -situations. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XXII. - - -Cost of transporting Goods from the several embarkadaries to the - mines—Price of Merchandize in the mines—Cost of Provisions—Price - of Medical Services—Administration of Justice—Manner of spending - the Sabbath. - -From the two principal embarkadaries upon the St. Waukeen and Sacramento -rivers of California, provisions and mining implements are transported -to the seat of mining operations at exorbitant costs. - -On passing up to the mines from a place calld Stocton, upon the St. -Waukeen, our company hird a teamster to carry our goods and implements, -for which we paid him, for one wagon load, more than _fourteen hundred -dollars_, rated at 30 cents per pound. Afterwards during the summer, -goods were carrid on pack mules at a somewhat less cost. It may also be -added, that conveyances were got up for the accommodation of passengers -between Stocton and the mines, a distance of 70 or 80 miles, at a charge -of 2 ounces of gold dust for each passenger, which, according to its -value in California, is worth $32. - -From Sacramento city, the present head of navigation upon the Sacramento -river, similar prices are chargd for the transportation of goods into -that quarter of the mining district. - -The price of merchandize at the mines is quite dissimilar to prices in -the States. Tea, best, per pound, is worth from $2 to $4. Common sizd -frying pans at $8. Tin pans, a large size, at $8 apiece. India rubber -elastic cots at $50 to $75 each. Calf-skin shoes, per pair, at $8, and -boots at $16. An ordinary article of ax-helve at $3. Lumber, scarce, at -$2 per ft. Pint tin cups at $1.50 each. Coarse sheeting, 50 cents per -yard. - -The cost of provisions ranges somewhat as follows. Flour is worth, per -pound, from 75 cts. to $1. Pork, per pound, $1. Beans are sold by the -pound, at $1 per pound. Rice, per lb., 62½ cents. Light bread, per loaf -of one pound, $1. Beef, 25 cents the pound. Potatoes are sold by the -pound, at 50 cents. Green peas preservd in air-tight jars, per pint, $4. -Onions, per pound, $2. Public meals, $2. - - * * * * * * * * - -_Medical services_ are likewise high, in the mining district. Each -visit, near to patient, is 1 oz. of gold, or $16. If a week’s attendance -is requird, no reduction upon each visit is made. For extracting a -tooth, $10 is chargd. Very extravagant prices are chargd for distant -visits. - - * * * * * * * * - -In relation to the _administration of justice_ in the mining district, -wherever a sufficient assemblage of miners exists to be thought worthy -of judicial attention, an alcalda or justice of the peace is appointed, -who presides over the judiciary department, with almost as unlimited -sway as an emperor. And although in addition to an alcalda, a sheriff is -appointed to a permanent office, and cases are almost universally tried -by a jury, which is summond by the sheriff, yet they are generally -selected of a stamp congruous to the feelings of the alcalda. From the -decisions, no appeal can ever be made, whether right or wrong. I would -likewise remark, that decisions are very apt to be made against the -party having the most gold, and especially if one of the parties is -rather low in circumstances. Such a state of judicial dispensation may -seem somewhat objectionable, at first thought, but when we reflect, that -where no legislation exists, lynch law is the only mode of dispensing -justice, to which men can well resort, and this is so terrific in its -consequences of criminal justice, that rogues tremble in view of its -administration. Much more civility and less theft exists in the mines -than might at first be supposd. - -The costs of legal services may be arrangd somewhat as follows: -Alcaldas, for each suit, 1 oz. To the sheriff, 1 oz. To each juryman, -half an ounce of gold,—and legal pleadings are often enormous, even to -$100 for the service of an hour or two. - -The several foregoing costs of transportation, price of merchandize, -costs of provisions and medical services, are very often increasd or -diminishd, according to location, distance, or difficulty of -transporting, and also the season of the year. - - * * * * * * * * - -There is a consideration, likewise, in relation to _spending the Sabbath -amongst the gold mines of California_. - -The reader may greatly wonder what is the mode of spending the Sabbath -there, when I say to him, that the Sabbath appears as silent as the -house of mourning. Seldom is a man seen with his implements in his -hands, laboring for gold. All around is quiet, except now and then a few -horsemen are passing from one little town to another, for purposes best -known to themselves. What, then, is the wonderful employment or idle -condition of miners upon that day? Alas! every public tent through the -whole mining region is resorted to for gambling. In each of these tents, -stands from one to four or six monte tables, around which, miners of all -classes assemble to risk their fortunes. These tables are arrangd with -small or large sums of money, by one or more persons, according to the -ability of the person or persons that establish them. The sums of money -so arrangd are calld banks, or monte banks. On opposite sides of the -table, sit two men, who manage the affairs of the bank, and deal the -cards by which the fate of bettors is determind. This game at cards is -carrid on from morning till night, and often through the following night -till twilight breaks upon them, with the stillness and quiet of a -religious assemblage. - - [Illustration: Cornucopia] - - - - - DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - -Alta or Upper California With respect to Agriculture—Climate and Health - of Alta California—Navigation of its two principal Rivers—Some of - the principal Towns of Alta California—Its Bays and Harbors. - -It can hardly be imagind, how the business of agriculture can be carrid -on successfully in a country circumstancd like Upper California. In the -mountainous portions, grain can not do well without resort to -irrigation, and this, from extreme cost, can not well be done on an -extensive scale. - -The low country of the great valley of the St. Waukeen and Sacramento, -is not unfrequently inundated a month or two, during the latter part of -the winter, which renders passages from one part of the valley to -another by land, entirely impracticable, and although along the borders -of those two large rivers, and to some distance outward from them, there -is a good soil, yet it is well known to farmers, that wheat will not -live but a few days, entirely immersd in water—so that the wheat crop -could never be depended upon as a safe investment. - -Along the borders of these rivers, in some places, the native grasses -are of a tolerable growth. Outward toward the base of the mountain, the -earth becomes so dry during the summer, that vegetation is entirely -dried up. It however arrives at maturity, at a stinted growth. I have -seen native oats growing upon the plains of the great valley. These also -are not very enormous in size. Notwithstanding, they for awhile furnish -good grazing for the roaming cattle of the country, upon which, and the -short bunch grass growing upon some of the hills, they become very fat -during the summer. But as the grasses of the country are of so stinted a -growth, farmers cannot live in crowded communities, as in the States, -but at distances of from 10 to 20 miles apart. Locations of this kind -are calld ranches, or rancheros, and farmers so living often own several -hundred head of cattle and horses. - - * * * * * * * * - -_The climate of California_, of which I shall next speak, varies -considerably in different parts of the country, according to its -distance from the ocean or from the Neveda mountains, or the unevenness -of the surface of the country. - -In the mountain district of the Neveda range, the climate was describd -in the geography of that portion of California. - -Lower down and westward, along the great valley, the climate is milder, -through the whole of the year. I believe the large rivers of the valley -are not frozen during the winter, and the weather in summer is quite -warm. Thus far from the axis of the Neveda mountains eastward, to the -two great rivers westward, during the summer season, the sky is serene, -and the stars and planets shine with great splendor. - -No dew falls in that part hitherto describd, during the hottest season -of the year, and travelers may lie upon the ground without exposure from -the unhealthiness of a damp ground and a moist atmosphere. - -Farther outward, and along the coast, the country is much of the time -during the year, coverd with fogs, which render it unpleasant, and in -some measure unhealthy. The town of San Francisco, most of the year, is -envelopd in a thick fog, during much of the night and the following day, -till 10 or 11 o’clock, after which time the wind becomes of sufficient -strength to clear away the fog, which often renders the remainder of the -day unpleasant. This town, from the almost continued dampness of the -atmosphere, and the unavoidable use of mineralizd water, can hardly be -considerd a healthy place. Dysentery and fever seems to be the prevalent -disease. - -I had nearly forgotten an idea which I now recollect to have heard, -relating to the dryness and purity of the atmosphere of California. It -has been said that the flesh of animals may be hung up in the open -atmosphere, till it becomes perfectly preservd by drying, without salt, -and during such process, no annoying insects ever disturb it—and also, -that a man would never die there, except by being dried up. - -It is true, that the Spaniards have a mode of preserving the flesh of -the ox, by cutting it into very small strips, and hanging it upon -strings cut from the raw hide, where it is exposd to the heat of the -sun. In this way, meat could be preservd in any of the States, but if it -be left in large masses, and so circumstancd that any part of it is kept -from drying immediately on the outside, the green fly, an insect common -to that country as well as the States, is presently found to be a -loathsome intruder. - - * * * * * * * * - -When I left the mining district for the valley, on my way to San -Francisco, on the 13th of October, I saw eight or ten vessels lying at -Stocton, and at the head of Suisan bay, three or four more, and at the -head of Pablo bay, six or seven more. These, with ten or twelve lying at -Sacramento city, and as many more scatterd along the two rivers and in -the several bays, added to about 130 which I counted in the harbor of -San Francisco, on my arrival there, will make about 175 vessels within -the country of California. Most of the vessels lying in the harbor of -San Francisco, were inactive, for want of help to work them. - -The business of transportation upon the two rivers, St. Waukeen and -Sacramento, I believe to be as profitable as any that is attended to in -California. When I left, two small steamers were constantly plying -between San Francisco and Sacramento city, and another was being put -together at Suisan bay, for the navigation of the St. Waukeen. More -busines at present is done upon the rivers by launches, a small vessel -of only one mast, than by any other vessel. These are more easily managd -than large ships, along the intricate windings of those extremely -crooked rivers, but so soon as a sufficient number of steamers can be -obtaind for the business of the rivers, other means of transportation -will in a great degree cease. - - * * * * * * * * - -That portion of Alta California, where at present men’s conceptions are -most vivid, and where at every corner, pass or avenue, the lively turn -of the foot is seen, and where men’s views and feelings to-morrow will -not be what they are to-day, and where also the sight of the golden -streams from the Neveda mountains produce electrical shocks upon all -persons, whose hearts are tund to chant the new and animating lays of -later scenes of better days, and where nearly all of the “Elephant,” in -his varied and portentous displays, is seen—may be comprisd within the -small tract of country, over which the waters of the two principal -rivers, Sacramento and St. Waukeen, flow. Along these waters, are -several newly laid out towns, together with some of ancient Mexican -date. - -San Francisco is situated upon a side hill, on the south side of the bay -of the same name. Its inhabitants were reckond, on the first of -November, ’49, at 25,000, though six months before there were scarcely -5000. Such has been the rapid progress of San Francisco. The town is 10 -or 12 miles within the entrance of the bay from the ocean. - -At the head of Pablo bay, is a newly laid out town, calld Benetia. It -lies on the north side of the strait between Pablo bay and Suisan bay. -This strait will doubtless bear the name of Benetia. The town will -ultimately be a pleasanter one than San Francisco. One mile east of -Benetia, upon the same side of the strait, the United States have -establishd an arsenal. - -At the head of Suisan bay, is a new town calld Western New York. This -town lies on the south side of the waters of the bay, upon, a flat piece -of ground, at the lower confluence of the Sacramento and St. Waukeen. -The delta between the upper and lower confluence, is about 20 miles in -length. New York, situated as it is, will command the business of both -rivers, and if it is lucky enough to avoid being inundated once a year, -will ultimately be a place of considerable importance. - -At the present head waters of navigation for the St. Waukeen, upon a -slough about three miles distant from the river, is a town calld -Stocton, the principal embarkadary for the south division of the mining -district. This town is situated on low, flat ground, which rises but -little above the waters of the river, at lowest stages. When the country -around is overflowd with water, this town must necessarily suffer much -inconvenience therefrom. - -The last town which I shall here mention, is Sacramento city. Like -Stocton, it is situated at the present head waters of the Sacramento -river. It serves as the principal embarkadary for the northern mining -region, as Stocton does for the south, and from this place, provisions -and implements are carrid to all parts of the northern mining region. -The place is more than half as large as San Francisco, and is fast -improving. - - * * * * * * * * - -Before closing the subject of California, a few remarks concerning its -_bays and harbors_ may not be uninteresting. - -The Bay of San Francisco is nearly surrounded by high hills, with a -narrow entrance from the ocean, and now and then an island is -interspersd, to hide the scenery of its waters from the hills contiguous -to the town of San Francisco. It is large enough to contain the shipping -of the whole world, and its waters are not of inconvenient depth for -anchorage. - -Next above this, lies Pablo bay, or Bay of St. Paul. It is inferior in -size, but ships can anchor in any part of it, and lie at all times with -a tolerable degree of safety. - -At the head of Pablo bay, commences Suisan bay, which extends upward to -the delta that divides the two rivers, Sacramento and St. Waukeen. The -waters of this bay are so shoal that vessels have difficulty in sailing -over it, except directly along its channel. - -The distances across the several bays are as follows. From San Francisco -to Pablo bay, is about 10 miles, and through Pablo bay to Suisan bay, is -40 miles, and Suisan bay differs but little from 50 miles in length, -from Benetia to New York, at the head of the bay. - - - - - HOMEWARD BOUND. - - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - -Scenes on the Pacific Ocean.—Difficulty of reaching the harbor of - Panama, by sail ships.—Arrival at Panama.—The town of Panama, and - its inhabitants.—Passage across the isthmus, to Chagres. - -After a stay in California of a little more than five months, I took my -departure for home by way of the ocean, on board a sail ship bound for -Panama, the 21st day of October, 1849. As there is often a difficulty in -getting out of the bay of San Francisco into the ocean, with sail ships, -on account of a strong wind that is much of the time blowing through the -straits eastward from the ocean, and the dense fog that envelops the -sea, at the entrance of the bay, we were detaind nearly two days before -we could pass the straits into the ocean. - -Our passage from San Francisco to Panama, was accomplishd in 40 days, a -distance of about 4000 miles, tho’ along the coast, it would not much -exceed 3500. This passage was considerd by the master of the vessel, as -expeditious as is common upon waters of as little wind as is not -unfrequently witnessd upon the Pacific ocean. - -Whilst on my passage from Oregon last spring, to California, I saw a -short distance from ship, a whale, in an attempt at running a race with -us. He kept along in a parallel course with the ship, one or two miles, -and then left us. Ship-masters say they will outrun the fleetest ship. - -But we saw on our passage from San Francisco to Panama, but few of the -monsters of the deep, so often describd in history and romance, although -this coast is the place to which whalemen resort. At a distance from -ship, we saw now and then a few whales, spouting the briny waters high -into the atmosphere—and then again, a shoal of porpoises surrounding the -ship—some of which, our sailors caught with their hooks and lines.—The -flesh of the porpoise is of a reddish color, and coarse, but tolerably -pleasant to eat. - -The dolphin is a small fish of only two or three feet in length—and has -the power of changing its color. The flesh is said to be poisonous in -some degree, and is therefore not good for food. These fish are shy and -hard to take, except by stratagem. - -Our captain is an old whaleman, and his vessel was fitted out from -Nantucket, for that purpose. On our way south,—he one day took 4 or 5 -men into a whale-boat, and started out from the vessel in pursuit of -some black fish we saw at a short distance from us. We had not watchd -him long before we saw him returning with a large black fish in tow of -his whale boat. He presently came along side, and down the halyards were -let—to haul the monster upon deck,—and in a few minutes, was seen -stretchd athwart the ship, a giant fish, weighing about 2500 pounds,—out -of which, was obtaind 4 barrels of oil. - -This was a specimen of whaling on a small scale. The fish here caught, -was a species of whale, and was organizd similarly. A few inches from -the end of his snout, upon the top of it, was a valve, about 3 inches -square, out of which, the animal spouts. - -After tossing and rolling about upon the wide Pacific, till I was -utterly tird of my situation, we at length arrivd at the outer confines -of Panama bay, on Monday, Nov. 26. Although this bay is more than 100 -miles wide at the entrance, yet it is so situated, that most of the -year, there is a wind from the Caribbean sea, blowing across the -continent outward from the harbor of Panama, which renders an entrance -into it slow and difficult. We, however, after tacking the ship the -tedious number of 10 times, arrivd in safety at the harbor of Panama, on -the evening of Friday, Nov. 30. - -Our arrival at Panama, was an epoch of satisfaction to me, as well as my -fellow passengers, after having experienced so many days of monotony -upon the ocean. - -The anchorage for ships is inconveniently situated from town, being -nearly 3 miles distant. - -After having arrivd at the town, and wanderd over it somewhat, I found -it to be located upon a rock, formd of successive layers of apparent -lava. But as my opportunity of examining it was scanty, I could not well -determine its character. The town wears a dilapidated appearance, from -its extreme age, and a want of attention to repairs. Many of the houses -are large,—and three stories high, with broken down roofs, and with -grass growing out of every corner, and upon the roofs. They have the -oddity of being built partly of bricks, and partly of stone, intermingld -together in the body of the walls. They have windows arrangd similar to -windows in houses of the states, but without sash or glass, being left -entirely open. No chimneys are built to any of the houses, and cooking -is done with small portable furnaces, or a fire is built upon the -ground, between 2 small rocks set up edgewise, so as to contain the -fuel. In the cooking apartments, an arrangement is made for the escape -of the smoke at the top of the room, so that it may not communicate with -their dining or sitting rooms. - -The town, previous to the gold excitement of California, was in a great -measure, vacant of inhabitants, and large and commodious rooms may have -been hird for the small sum of 12½ cents per day. The streets are mostly -narrow, but they are tolerably well pavd, and are washd nearly every day -for ¾ of a year, from the all copious fountain of the heavens above. No -drays or coaches are seen to mar the beauty of the streets, and grass is -seen growing even in the middle of the streets, and along its sidewalks. -This was once a populous town, but now—like most other Spanish towns -along the western coast of America, is seen the marks of imbecility, -indifference and decay. They have a small market or two, to which all -classes indiscriminately, resort for their daily support. The town next -to the bay is walld around, upon which, a few cannon were placd for its -former defense. - -The inhabitants speak the Spanish language. They are cleanly in dress, -plain in their manners, and familiar in their conversation. They are -unassuming in their style, and liberal in their hospitalities. - -I am inclind to think the character of the American Spanish has hitherto -been misrepresented. During my stay in California, I was located among -that people, and I ever found them willing to part with half their last -meal to feed a hungry man. Although the Spanish ladies are almost -universally neat washers, yet their is a want of taste in their dress, -it being loosely, though not fantastically adjusted about their persons. -In their behavior, their sitting and reclining postures have an unchaste -appearance, though this may arise from want of proper training. - -The width of the isthmus from Panama across to the bay of Darien, is not -much different from 50 miles—but by the way of the old Panama road to -Chagres, the distance is about 64 miles. Through this route the present -emigration passes.—From Panama, there is a portage of about 24 miles, to -Cruses, a town of about 150 houses, at the present head waters of the -Chagres river. There is also, another town of similar importance, about -5 miles below, upon the Chagres river, calld Gorgona. To this town, -also, there is a road which leads off from the Cruses road about half -way distant from Panama to Cruses. - -The present Cruses road is probably of as ancient date as the town of -Panama. It has once been pavd, and a tolerably good road for pack -animals to pass, but too narrow to admit of carriages. Across the -portage, the country is uneven, though not mountainous, and much of the -way, the road is cut through hills of soft rock. At present, the -pavement is almost all broken up, and the road is muddy and disagreeable -to pass, much of the year, even with pack animals. Most of the property -that now passes that road, is carrid upon the backs of native -citizens,—though horses or mules can be hird at either end of the rout -for the transportation of property. - -The houses of Cruses and Gorgona, and also a few scattering houses along -the portage, are made of Bamboo, a reed which grows very tall, but small -in size. These reeds are set upon the ends, and firmly crowded together -to the size of the requird wall. At the corners of these walls, are set -posts of sufficient strength to support the roofs, which are thatchd of -the cocoa leaf. After the roofs are completed, no rains can penetrate -them. The slender appearance of these houses, seems to be a proof that -no tornados or heavy winds exist along the isthmus,—and some families -live in tenements of nothing but a roof placd upon posts in the form of -a Dutch barrack. - -The remainder of the way from Cruses to Chagres, is down the Chagres -river,—a stream of considerable importance in time of high water, though -not of sufficient depth to admit of the navigation of any but small -class steamboats, in times of common stages of the river. - -The country across the isthmus truly indicates a want of yankee -enterprise. No agricultural interests are resorted to for the support of -the inhabitants. All appears drear, and the country is thickly coverd -with low, leafy kinds of timber, heavily laden much of it, with vines of -various kinds, pending their branches near to the ground. Now and then, -however, along the way is seen a small opening or lawn, where a few -cattle are grazing—and these of the thriftiest kind,—indicating the -advantages which might be derivd from the improvement of the soil upon -the isthmus. - - [Illustration: Decorative glyph] - - - - - CHAPTER XXV. - - - Town of Chagres—Its inhabitants—Trip to New Orleans—Thence up the - Mississippi to St. Louis—Arrival home. - -Chagres is a town of some over 150 houses, situated on the South -American side, at the mouth of the Chagres river. The houses are like -those of Gorgona and Cruses, many of which appear to be of considerably -ancient date. The ground upon which the town stands, is of but little -elevation above the waters of the river, and it seems that it must -inevitably become inundated, should a strong wind continue to blow a -considerable time from off the Caribbean sea. This town, as also -Gorgona, Cruses and Panama, belongs to the republic of New Grenada. -Bogota is the capital of this republic, and is situated interior, -several hundred miles to the south of Chagres. An entrance to the mouth -of the Chagres river, by sail ships, is often attended with the danger -of being wreckd on the beach. Hence, a steamer is kept at the harbor for -the conveyance of passengers from them, at a distance of 2 miles, where -they are obligd to anchor. - -At the entrance of the river and contiguous to the town, upon a -projecting eminence, is an old, dilapidated fort, with a large number of -brass cannon scatterd about upon the walls. There appear to be a few -soldiers strolling about the fort, but with a total indifference to the -attention which a fort requires for its requisite abilities, in an -emergency. - -The inhabitants of Chagres have more of negroes and negro blood in them -than the citizens of Panama, Cruses or Gorgona, but they are of similar -stamp with their neighbors in that part of America, and speak the same -language. The females dress much in lawns and other light clothing, as -is most suitable for the climate. The religion here, and mostly -throughout this part of the country, is Roman Catholic. - -The bells of the churches are generally hung in the windows, or outside, -near the ground, at their entrances. The cross-bar on which they are -hung, often contains two bells, so that the ringing of them is -frequently done by two persons, in quite a ludicrous manner. The mode of -ringing is performd by each person’s taking a small hammer or stick, and -striking upon the outside of the bells, keeping time with each other, -similar to the beating of two drummers. - - * * * * * * * * - -_Saturday, Dec. 8th._—Embarkd on board brig Major Eastland, bound to New -Orleans, and arrivd there, Thursday, December 20th. Our trip was a -tolerably short and pleasant one, for the season of the year. We -experiencd no storm upon the Caribbean sea, nor any through the Gulf of -Mexico. Nothing of importance was experiencd on the way, to change the -monotony. - -On the 21st, I left New Orleans by steamboat, for St Louis, a distance -of 1200 miles by water, though probably not much exceeding 600 direct. -The old towns of Natchez and Vicksburg are in a decayd condition. -Memphis appears to be the most thriving town between New Orleans and St. -Louis. - -_Monday, Dec. 31st_, I found myself at the St. Louis levee, after -struggling with floating ice for a day or two, the latter part of the -distance. I left St. Louis, Jan. 2d, 1850, and arrivd at Knox co., Ill., -Jan. 8th, having been gone from home, one year, nine months and five -days. - -On my arrival at home, I found my friends in a state of health, though -many deaths in town had occurd during my absence, and the place had -exceedingly improvd. - - * * * * * * * * - -A few remarks appendant to the foregoing, in relation to traveling -expenses, may be of use to those desirous to go to California, by the -way of the oceans and the isthmus. At present, the arrangement for -running steamers between San Francisco and Panama, is, to leave each -place for the other, but twice each month, which is on the 1st and 20th. -Sail ships are also running between the two places with frequency. -Prices of passage, the fall of 1849, between the two places, were $300 -cabin, $150 steerage. On board sail ships, $150 cabin, and $75 steerage. -An arrangement from Chagres to New York, by the way of New Orleans and -Havana, is made by the U. S. Mail Ship Company, for carrying passengers, -so that passengers can leave Chagres on the 28th of each month, at $150 -cabin, $125 forward, and $80 steerage. This state of things will not -last long, before there will be a sufficient amount of competition for -the speedy accommodation of all who wish to go to California. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos; retained the author’s idiosyncratic and - inconsistent spelling. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Travels from St. Josephs to -Oregon, by Riley Root - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS FROM ST. 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