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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #61989 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/61989)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Artists at the Fair, by
-Frank D. Millet, J. A. Mitchell, Will H. Low, W. Hamilton Gibson and F. Hopkinson Smith
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Some Artists at the Fair
-
-Author: Frank D. Millet
- J. A. Mitchell
- Will H. Low
- W. Hamilton Gibson
- F. Hopkinson Smith
-
-Release Date: May 2, 2020 [EBook #61989]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME ARTISTS AT THE FAIR ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- Some Artists at the Fair
-
- Frank D. Millet
- Will H. Low
- J. A. Mitchell
- W. Hamilton Gibson
- F. Hopkinson Smith
-
- [Illustration]
-
- New York
- Charles Scribner’s Sons
- 1893
-
-
-
-
- SOME ARTISTS AT THE FAIR
-
- [Illustration: THE COURT OF HONOR--DOME OF ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.]
-
-
-
-
- SOME ARTISTS AT THE FAIR
-
- FRANK D. MILLET
- WILL H. LOW
- J. A. MITCHELL
- W. HAMILTON GIBSON
- F. HOPKINSON SMITH
-
- [Illustration]
-
- NEW YORK
- CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
- 1893
-
-
-
-
- COPYRIGHT, 1893, BY
- CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
-
-
- TROW DIRECTORY
- PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY
- NEW YORK
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
- PAGE
-
-_THE DECORATION OF THE EXPOSITION_ _1_
-
-_TYPES AND PEOPLE AT THE FAIR_ _43_
-
-_THE ART OF THE WHITE CITY_ _59_
-
-_FOREGROUND AND VISTA AT THE FAIR_ _81_
-
-_THE PICTURESQUE SIDE_ _100_
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
- PAGE
-
-_The Court of Honor--Dome of Administration Building_, _Frontispiece_
-
-_Riders of Winged Horses, from W. L. Dodge’s Decoration in the
-Administration Building_, 1
-
-_Figure Emblematic of the Textile Arts, by Robert Reid, in one of
-the Domes of the Manufactures Building_, 3
-
-_Allegorical Figure of “Needle-work,” by J. Alden Weir, in one of
-the Domes of the Manufactures Building_, 7
-
-_“Forging,” Figure by E. E. Simmons, in the Dome of the East
-Portal, Manufactures Building_, 11
-
-_“Musicians,” Fragment from the Procession, by W. L. Dodge, in
-the Dome of the Administration Building_, 14
-
-_“Ceramic Painting,” by Kenyon Cox, in a Dome of the East
-Portal, Manufactures Building_, 15
-
-_“Autumn,” Panel by G. W. Maynard, in the Agricultural Building_, 18
-
-_“Pearl,” by Walter Shirlaw, in a Dome of the North Portal,
-Manufactures Building_, 19
-
-_“The Telephone,” by J. Carroll Beckwith, in a Dome of the North
-Portal, Manufactures Building_, 23
-
-_“Decoration,” Figure by C. S. Reinhart_, 29
-
-_“The Armorer’s Craft,” one of Four Figures by E. H. Blashfield,
-Representing the Arts of Metal Working_, 33
-
-_Female Figure from W. L. Dodge’s Decoration in the Administration
-Building_, 37
-
-_Banner Adopted from the Standard of Spain under Ferdinand and
-Isabella_, 39
-
-_Banner Adopted from the Expeditionary Flag of Columbus_, 39
-
-_Trying to Get the Better of the Native_, 45
-
-_Fakirs_, 47
-
-_A Bride and Groom_, 52
-
-_Wheeled About at Seventy-five Cents per Hour_, 54
-
-_The Question of Finance_, 56
-
-_Café in the Midway Plaisance_, 57
-
-_Lighting the Natural Gas Torches on the Roof of the Administration
-Building_, 61
-
-_At Night on the Midway Plaisance_, 64
-
-_Indian Girl and Bull, Modelled by French & Potter_, 65
-
-_German Building_, 66
-
-_Central Portion of MacMonnies Fountain--Effect of Electric Light_, 73
-
-_The Border of the Lagoon_, 84
-
-_A Bit of the Californian Building_, 86
-
-_The Californian Building_, 87
-
-_A Cove in Wooded Island_, 88
-
-_The Edge of the Rose Garden, Wooded Island_, 91
-
-_Japanese Building on Wooded Island_, 92
-
-_An Aged Japanese Dwarf, One Hundred Years Old--A Corner
-of the Horticultural Building_, 93
-
-_Portal of the Fisheries Building_, 95
-
-_Elkhorn Fern, a Suggestion for an Architect--In the Australian
-Exhibit, Horticultural Hall_, 97
-
-_The Peristyle_, 102
-
-_Distant View of Dome of the Horticultural Building_, 103
-
-_Dome of Horticultural Building at Night_, 106
-
-_In Old Vienna_, 107
-
-_Mosque of the Sultan Selim_, 111
-
-“_Far-away Moses_,” 114
-
-_Doorway of the Transportation Building_, 116
-
-_In Cairo Street_, 119
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: RIDERS OF WINGED HORSES, FROM W. L. DODGE’S DECORATION IN
-THE ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.]
-
-
-
-
-THE DECORATION OF THE EXPOSITION
-
-_By F. D. Millet_
-
-
-The grand style, the perfect proportions, and the magnificent dimensions
-of the buildings of the World’s Columbian Exposition, excite a twofold
-sentiment in the mind of the visitor--wonder and admiration at the
-beauties of the edifices, and regret and disappointment that they are
-not to remain as monuments to the good taste, knowledge, and skill of
-the men who built them, and as a permanent memorial of the event which
-the Exposition is intended to celebrate. This complex feeling is a
-natural one, and is perfectly comprehensible in the presence of the
-noble porticos and colonnades, the graceful towers, superb domes, and
-imposing façades. Previous exhibitions, with the possible exception of
-that in Vienna in 1873, have been confessedly ephemeral in the character
-of their construction, and have shown a distinctly playful and festal
-style of architecture, with little attempt at seriousness or dignity of
-design. The monumental character of the group of Exposition buildings in
-Chicago is not the result of accident, but of deliberate forethought and
-wise judgment.
-
-In the heat of the fever of construction, which has spread like a
-contagion from the rocks of Mount Desert to the white sands of the
-Pacific coast, a new race of architects has sprung up, fertile in
-resources and clever in execution, but with little well-grounded
-knowledge of the real principles of their art. Beginning with the
-bulbous conglomerations of material which have been forced upon a
-long-suffering public by the Government architects, and ending with
-consciously picturesque structures that hint more of the terrors of
-mediæval dungeons than of the comforts of domestic life, and bear the
-title of villa but the aspect of military strongholds, the architecture
-of the past two decades has, with some
-
-[Illustration: FIGURE EMBLEMATIC OF THE TEXTILE ARTS, BY ROBERT REID, IN
-ONE OF THE DOMES OF THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING.]
-
-notable exceptions, been distinguished by increasing ingenuity in
-imitation rather than the development of skill in adaptation. It would
-be worse than foolish to demand that an architect should be thoroughly
-original, as it would be to ask an artist to cut loose from all the
-proven principles and traditions of his profession, and invent an
-entirely new method and a novel system. What may be reasonably asked of
-an architect is that he have an individual point of view, and modernize
-the adaptation of old principles without disturbing the real spirit of
-the same; that he develop and extend these principles to meet the
-requirements of modern life; that, in fact, he work as nearly as
-possible in the same direction that the masters of ancient architecture
-would have done if they had been dealing with modern problems of design,
-plan, and construction. There are certain immutable laws of harmony and
-proportion which have always governed and will always rule in
-architecture as in art, and though they are disregarded and tampered
-with for the sake of novelty and so-called originality, this
-faithlessness always meets its just punishment in the result. The
-majority of modern architects have, in these days of abundant
-photographs, models, and measurements, been led to cater to the vanity
-of half-educated clients, and have engrafted French châteaux on
-Romanesque palaces, have invented wonderfully ingenious but viciously
-hybrid combinations, one of which has been aptly described as “Queen
-Anne in front and Mary Ann in the back.” The precept and example of the
-scholarly men in the profession have been powerless to stem this tide of
-ill-considered design, and nothing short of gradual regeneration and
-slow revulsion of sentiment against this tendency has been hoped for
-until the present year.
-
-Mr. D. H. Burnham, the Director of Works of the World’s Columbian
-Exposition, took the first important step toward the renaissance of the
-true spirit of architecture in this country by ignoring all precedents
-of competition, and selecting as associates certain architects and firms
-whose records established their position as true leaders of the
-profession. These architects, after studious contemplation of the
-situation, decided on the adoption of a general classical style for the
-buildings, subject, of course, to such modifications as were found
-necessary by the requirements of each individual case. The result is a
-satisfactory and sufficient proof of the wisdom of Mr. Burnham’s action,
-and there is now before the country a more extensive and instructive
-object-lesson in architecture than has ever been presented to any
-generation in any country since the most flourishing period of
-architectural effort. The educational importance of this feature of the
-great Exposition can scarcely be over-estimated,
-
-[Illustration: ALLEGORICAL FIGURE OF “NEEDLE-WORK,” BY J. ALDEN WEIR, IN
-ONE OF THE DOMES OF THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING.]
-
-and its salutary influence on the future architecture of this country
-can be prophesied with absolute certainty. The scheme has not been
-considered complete, however, nor the lesson properly emphasized,
-without the necessary adjuncts of the two arts so closely allied to
-architecture, sculpture and painting, both of which have been drawn upon
-with freedom and good judgment to supplement and enrich the
-architectural features. Sculpture has been employed far more extensively
-than its sister art, for the very good reason that few of the buildings
-have been constructed with any intention of carrying the interiors to
-any high degree of finish. It would have been impracticable, under the
-circumstances, to bring the interiors up to the same perfection as the
-exteriors, even with the cheapest material, for it would have added an
-enormous per cent to the cost of construction. The architects have,
-therefore, in most cases frankly accepted the situation and confined
-their efforts at embellishment to the façades, considering the buildings
-simply as great sketches of possible permanent structures, confessedly
-utilitarian as to the interior, but as sumptuous and suggestive in
-exterior treatment as the conditions permitted. Indeed, this was the
-only reasonable view to take, both because of the enormous size of the
-buildings and the complex uses for which they are intended. The exhibits
-themselves are necessarily such prominent features of the interiors
-that they only need a background of more or less simple character to
-complete, with the elaborate installation which is being carried on,
-quite as agreeable a decoration scheme as might be reasonably expected
-on such an enormous scale.
-
-Without going into details of construction, it is proper to call
-attention to one feature of the interiors, notably of the Machinery and
-Manufactures and Liberal Arts buildings, where the architect and the
-engineer have joined forces and produced a result far ahead of anything
-before accomplished. I refer to the wonderfully beautiful iron-work of
-these buildings, which satisfies to an eminent degree both the
-utilitarian and æsthetic requirements. Mr. C. B. Atwood, Designer in
-Chief, co-operated with Mr. E. C. Shankland, Chief Engineer, in working
-out a plan of construction of the immense trusses with the connecting
-girders, purlins, and braces, which has been carried out in great
-perfection. The ugly forms of ordinary bridge-builders’ construction,
-which have hitherto been endured as necessary for rigidity and strength,
-have been largely eliminated, and graceful curves, well-balanced
-proportions, and harmonious lines unite to make the iron-work, beautiful
-in itself, a distinctly ornamental feature of the interiors. Thus,
-without flourish of trumpets, a great advance has been made, and the
-great truth promulgated
-
-[Illustration: “FORGING,” FIGURE BY E. E. SIMMONS, IN THE DOME OF THE
-EAST PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.]
-
-that the useful may be beautiful even in engineering. Painting of an
-artistic character has been confined for the most part to a few domes
-and panels in various pavilions, to wall spaces under colonnades and
-porticos, and to the two or three interiors in which there is
-sufficiently high finish to permit of mural decoration.
-
-The Administration Building, by Mr. Richard M. Hunt, which was built for
-the uses of the World’s Columbian Commission with the numerous branches
-of its executive force, is the real focus of the group of buildings, not
-only from its position in the centre of a grand plaza of enormous
-extent, but on account of its monumental character. The portals and the
-angles of this building are adorned with groups of sculpture by Mr. Carl
-Bitter, of New York, and spandrels and panels, both outside and inside,
-are enriched by designs by the same sculptor. The dome, which is two
-hundred and sixty-five feet high, is truncated at the top and is lighted
-by a great eye forty feet in diameter. The interior of this dome around
-the great eye, a surface of the approximate dimensions of 35 x 300 feet,
-is to be covered with a figure composition painted by Mr. W. L. Dodge,
-representing in general terms the figure of a god on a high Olympian
-throne crowning with wreaths of laurel the representatives of the arts
-and sciences, and flanked by figures of Agriculture, Commerce,
-
-[Illustration: “MUSICIANS,” FRAGMENT FROM THE PROCESSION, BY W. L.
-DODGE, IN THE DOME OF THE ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.]
-
-and Peace. A Greek canopy, supported by flying female figures, contrasts
-agreeably with the clear blue of the sky background, against which the
-principal groups are shown in strong relief. Three winged horses drawing
-a vehicle with a model of the Parthenon, troops of warriors cheering the
-victors in the peaceful strife of the arts, and a wealth of minor
-figures, make up the composition, which is bold and imposing not only in
-magnitude but in line. The interior walls of the great Rotunda are
-tinted so as to give the effects of colored marbles and mosaics and
-under the outside the massive white Doric columns have a background of
-Pompeian richness
-
-[Illustration: “CERAMIC PAINTING,” BY KENYON COX, IN A DOME OF THE EAST
-PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.
-
-(From an unfinished sketch.)]
-
-of tone. With the exception of Mr. Dodge’s composition in the
-Administration Building, neither of the other buildings fronting on the
-grand plaza has any purely artistic decoration, although the hemicycle
-and portions of the Electricity Building, and the extensive arcades of
-the Machinery Building, are all treated with flat colors to supplement
-this architectural ornament, the former by Mr. Maitland Armstrong, the
-latter by Mr. E. E. Garnsey, of F. J. Sarmiento & Co. Across the south
-canal, however, a blaze of richly colored panels in the pavilions of the
-Agricultural Building, with here and there a figure of an animal half
-hidden by the superb Corinthian columns, shows where Mr. G. W. Maynard
-and his assistant, Mr. H. T. Schladermundt, have converted, by the magic
-of their art, the uninteresting plaster surfaces into a series of
-elaborate pictures. This decoration has been planned with great
-attention to the appropriate character of its individual features. There
-are two pavilions at either end of the building, with a large doorway
-breaking the wall into two panels, each one of which has a dado of
-elaborate ornament, a narrow border of conventionalized Indian corn on
-each side, and great garlands of fruit on top framing an oblong
-rectangle of rich Pompeian red with a colossal female figure of one of
-the seasons. Above the two panels, and connecting them by a band of
-color, is
-
-[Illustration: “AUTUMN,” PANEL BY G. W. MAYNARD, IN THE AGRICULTURAL
-BUILDING.]
-
-a frieze with rearing horses, bulls, oxen drawing a cart of ancient
-form, and other small groups of agricultural subjects. The focus of the
-decorative scheme is naturally at the main portico, the entrance to the
-Rotunda, called the Temple of Ceres, with the statue of the goddess in
-the mysterious twilight of the graceful and impressive interior. The
-portico is treated on much the same plan as the side pavilions, but as
-it provides a much greater area of wall surface, Mr. Maynard has been
-able to introduce a richer combination of colors and a greater variety
-of figures. “Abundance” and “Fertility,” two colossal
-
-[Illustration: “PEARL,” BY WALTER SHIRLAW, IN A DOME OF THE NORTH
-PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.]
-
-female figures, occupy, with the richly ornamented borders, great flat
-niches on either side of the entrance, and are flanked in turn on the
-side-walls by the figure of King Triptolemus, the fabled inventor of the
-plough, and the goddess Cybele, symbolical of the fertility of the
-earth, the one in a chariot drawn by dragons, the other leading a pair
-of lions. These figures, as well as those in the four porticos, are
-treated in a broad, simple manner, so that they carry perfectly to a
-great distance and at the same time lose nothing by close inspection.
-
-The sumptuousness of the color decoration is balanced by the lavish
-abundance of sculpture work which fills the pediments and crowns the
-piers and pylons, and, in general terms, the main features of the
-façades. The main pediment is by Mr. Larkin G. Mead; and the other
-statues--figures of abundance with cornucopiæ, a series of graceful
-maidens holding signs of the Zodiac, groups of four females representing
-the quarters of the globe supporting a horoscope, and various colossal
-agricultural animals--are all by the hand of Mr. Philip Martiny, who
-joins Mr. Olin L. Warner in supplementing the architectural
-ornamentation of the Art Building with various figures and bas-reliefs.
-Dominating the grand outlines of the edifice, perched high on the flat
-dome, is the gilded figure of Diana, by Mr. Augustus St. Gaudens,
-familiar as the finial of the tower of the Madison Square Garden in New
-York, a fitting apex of the monumental structure.
-
-The north front of the Agricultural Building, with the Peristyle and the
-south façade of the Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building, form a grand
-court of honor, so to speak, facing the Administration Building, which
-may be appropriately termed the Gateway of the Exhibition, for it rises
-directly in front of the Terminal Station, a building of vast
-proportions and noble aspect, designed to accommodate the thousands of
-visitors who reach the Fair by the numerous lines of railways
-concentrated at this point. Six rostral columns, surmounted by a figure
-of Neptune, by Mr. Johannes Gelert, accent this court at different
-points. Mr. Frederick MacMonnies’s _fin-de-siècle_ colossal fountain
-fills the west end of the basin with a busy group of symbolical figures
-and a flood of rushing water. Opposite, at the east end of the
-glittering sheet of water which reflects the architectural glories of
-the colonnades, the dignified, simple statue of the Republic, by Mr. D.
-C. French, towers high in air, relieved against the beautiful screen of
-the Peristyle, with its forest of columns showing clear cut against the
-blue waters of the lake. Every column and every pier of the Peristyle
-has its crowning figure, the work of Mr. Theodore Baur, and the great
-central arch, or Water-Gate supports a colossal Quadriga executed
-
-[Illustration: “THE TELEPHONE,” BY J. CARROLL BECKWITH, IN A DOME OF THE
-NORTH PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.]
-
-by Mr. D. C. French and Mr. Edward C. Potter, the former undertaking the
-figure work, and the latter the horses. Two pair of horses, led by
-classical female figures, draw a high chariot with a male figure
-symbolizing the spirit of discovery of the fifteenth century, and pages
-on horseback flank the chariot on either side, enriching the composition
-so that it presents a well-sustained mass from every possible point of
-view. This group is an achievement well worthy of its situation as the
-dominating embellishment of the great court with its wealth of sculpture
-and ornament.
-
-The terraces afford another inviting field for open-air decoration.
-Numerous pedestals have tempted the skill of the sculptors of the
-Quadriga to produce distinguished types of the horse and the bull, and
-formal antique vases on the balustrade and reproductions of the
-masterpieces of ancient statuary break the long lines of parapet and
-greensward. The graceful bridges spanning the canals are guarded by
-sculptured wild animals native of the United States, part of them by Mr.
-Edward Kemeys, others by Mr. A. P. Proctor, in appropriate contrast to
-the classicality of their surroundings and suggesting future
-possibilities in sculpture inspired by similar motives. The eye cannot
-take in at a glance the sumptuous beauties of this grand court, even in
-its ragged state of partial finish, but roves from statue to column,
-portal to terrace, resting agreeably on broad masses of rich color and
-on the gleaming reflections in the basin. Imagination can scarcely
-picture the scene with the addition of the festal features of fluttering
-banners, rich awnings, gayly decorated craft giving life and movement to
-the water front, and everywhere the crowd of visitors all on recreation
-bent.
-
-The casual observer might well be pardoned for failing at first to mark
-how the grand pavilions and porticos of the Manufactures and Liberal
-Arts Building are accented by frequent spaces covered with artistic
-decoration. In each of the four corner pavilions there are two tympana,
-those on the south side having been given to Mr. Gari Melchers and Mr.
-Walter MacEwen to fill with a decorative design. Both these artists have
-made elaborate compositions representing, in general terms, “Music” and
-“Manufactures” and “The Arts of Peace,” and “The Chase and the
-Manufacture of Weapons,” respectively.
-
-In the foreground of “Music,” at the left, a group of Satyrs pipes to a
-dancing cluster around the Muse Euterpe, and with various other
-personages make up a composition of great distinction of live and
-skilful arrangement. The second panel, which illustrates manufactures or
-textiles, is equally rich in groups, and in the background of both
-compositions is continued a procession in the honor of Pallas Athena,
-who was credited by the Greeks with the invention of spinning. The
-general color gamut is light with an intricate harmony of delicate
-tones. The procession is silhouetted in bluish tones against a warm sky
-with the colors of early evening, the golden reflections touching the
-figures with beautiful lines of light. Mr. Melchers has followed out
-much the same general plan of color in a varied but well-sustained
-composition, so that the four tympana make, in a sense, a series of
-harmonious pictures.
-
-The four grand central portals of the Manufactures and Liberal Arts
-Building recall triumphant arches of Roman times. Each of these portals
-has a lofty central entrance with rich bas-reliefs by Mr. Bitter and
-smaller side arches under pendentive domes. These eight domes have been
-filled with figure decorations, each by a different artist. Those on the
-south front of the building have been painted by Mr. J. Alden Weir and
-Mr. Robert Reid, who, with distinctly individual compositions, have
-harmonized their designs in a remarkably agreeable and skilful manner.
-Mr. Weir has chosen allegorical female figures of “Decorative Art,” “The
-Art of Painting,” “Goldsmith’s Art,” and the “Art of Pottery.” Each of
-these figures is seated on a balustrade and is relieved against a sky of
-pale broken blue tones. Flying draperies and capitals of four orders of
-architecture serve to connect the lines of the composition, which is
-further enriched by a cupid holding a tablet inscribed with the
-different arts and decorated with a wreath. The figures are large and
-simple in line, and the general scheme of color is pale blue varied with
-purple and green, a combination suggested by the evanescent hues of Lake
-Michigan. Mr. Reid has also selected seated allegorical figures to carry
-out his ideas, with the addition of four youths, one on the keystone of
-each arch, holding high above their heads wreaths and palm branches
-which meet and cross so as to form a band of decorative forms around the
-upper part of the dome. A semi-nude figure of a man with an anvil and
-wrought-iron shield represents “Ironworking;” a young girl in white
-resting one arm on a pedestal and the hand of the other arm touching a
-piece of carved stone, signifies “Ornament;” another in purple,
-finishing a drawing of a scroll, suggests the principle of “Design,” as
-applied to mechanical arts, and the fourth figure is readily interpreted
-as honoring the “Textile Arts.” In the east portal Mr. E. E. Simmons has
-placed a single figure of a man in each pendentive of the dome,
-symbolizing “Wood Carving,” “Stone Cutting,” “Forging,” and “Mechanical
-Appliances.” The general scheme is pale gray and flesh-colored tones
-relieved and accentuated by the forms of the tools and accessories
-appropriate to each figure. The
-
-[Illustration: “DECORATION,” FIGURE BY C. S. REINHART.]
-
-composition is bold in line, firm in outline, and original in
-conception. Mr. Kenyon Cox in the adjacent dome has worked so far in
-harmony with Mr. Simmons that he has decorated the pendentives rather
-than the upper part of the vault, placing a standing female figure in
-each against a balustrade and foliage. Above the heads, graceful
-banderoles, bearing the subjects illustrated, convert each pendentive
-into a shield-shaped space. A robust woman in buff jacket testing a
-sword, suggests “Steel Working.” A graceful girl in blue and white
-drapery holding a rare vase needs no title to show that she represents
-“Ceramic Painting.” “Building” is symbolized by a tall and shapely
-damsel in golden green robes, standing near an uncompleted wall, and
-“Spinning” by a stately maiden of fair complexion dressed in
-rose-colored stuffs, with the significant accessory of a spider-web. In
-the north portal Mr. J. Carroll Beckwith has illustrated the subject of
-Electricity as applied to Commerce. Four female figures occupy the
-pendentives. The “Telephone” and the “Indicator” are personified by a
-woman standing holding a telephone to her ear and surrounded by tape
-issuing from the ticker; “The Arc Light” by a figure kneeling holding
-aloft an arc light; “The Morse Telegraph” by a woman in flying draperies
-seated at a table upon which is the operating machine, while she reads
-from a book; and “The Dynamo” by a woman of a type of the working-class
-seated upon the magnet with a revolving wheel and belt at her feet.
-Above, in the upper dome, is placed the “Spirit of Electricity,” a
-figure of a boy at the top of the dome from which radiate rays of
-lightning, to which he points. Mr. Walter Shirlaw, who has decorated the
-neighboring dome, shows distinct originality of conception in his four
-allegorical figures, “Gold,” “Silver,” “Pearl,” and “Coral,” symbolizing
-the abundance of the land and the sea. The maiden representing “Gold”
-steps forward freely, her mantle of yellow falling as she advances. A
-silver-gray cloak, fastened with silver disks, distinguishes the figure
-of “Silver.” “Pearl” stands erect with glistening pearls around her neck
-and on her garments. “Coral,” with raised arms, places a coral ornament
-in her hair. A spider’s web in decorative pattern connects the figures
-and occupies the central surface of the dome. White, green, and gold,
-treated in monotones, form the color plan.
-
-The figure on page 29 is taken from a sketch of one of Mr. C. S.
-Reinhart’s figures in the south dome of the West Portal, and was
-materially changed in the enlargement, and improved in action and
-accessories. The effort of the artist has been to bring all the separate
-tones into harmony with each other, making the design and color
-appropriate
-
-[Illustration: “THE ARMORER’S CRAFT,” ONE OF FOUR FIGURES BY E. H.
-BLASHFIELD, REPRESENTING THE ARTS OF METAL WORKING.]
-
-to the purposes of the building, the architecture, and the construction
-of the pendentive dome itself. A white-marble terrace describes a
-complete circle just above the four arches of the dome, the railing of
-which is a repetition of the actual one which finishes the top of the
-walls of the building itself; above a vibrating blue sky, with touches
-of salmon pink; in the pendentives four seated female figures,
-representing the Arts of Sculpture, Decoration, Embroidery, and Design.
-Between the figures and above the arches are urns with cactus, from
-which vines and flowers are trailing, thus uniting the composition. The
-treatment is mural--broad, flat tones within the severe contours. Above,
-in the sky, faint in color and harmonizing with the sky itself, four
-cherubs are having a merry-go-round with pale ribbons.
-
-The pendentives of the adjacent dome, painted by Mr. E. H. Blashfield,
-are filled by four winged genii, representing the “Arts of Metal
-Working.” The “Armorer’s Craft” is personified by a helmeted figure; the
-“Brass Founder” and “Iron Worker” by two half-nude youths, one holding
-an embossed trencher, the other a hammer, while a maiden, in the closely
-clinging gown of the fifteenth century, with a statuette in her hand,
-symbolizes the “Art of the Goldsmith.” The extreme points of the
-pendentives are filled by appropriate attributes, a pair of gauntlets,
-brass workers’ tools, a horse-shoe, and a medal. Behind the figures, and
-a little above their heads, is a frieze of Renaissance scroll work, and
-the whole composition is bound together by flying banderoles and by the
-sweep of the widely extended wings. The centre of the dome is occupied
-by two winged infants supporting a shield. The general color scheme
-comprises a series of peacock blues, greens, and purples, brilliant
-white tones in wings and frieze, and pale blue of the sky as a
-background to the composition.
-
-The sculpture groups on the roof of the Woman’s Building, and the
-elaborate pediments executed by Miss Alice Rideout, with the Caryatides,
-by Miss Enid Yandell, were early finished and in place. The same is true
-of Lorado Taft’s graceful groups and friezes which adorn the
-Horticultural Building, and of Mr. John J. Boyle’s realistic and
-expressive embodiments of ideas suggested by the fertile theme of
-Transportation, and ranged in almost bewildering profusion around the
-building which bears that name. The regiment of statues on the Machinery
-Building, by Mr. M. A. Waagen and Mr. Robert Kraus, those on the
-Electricity Building, by Mr. J. A. Blankingship and Mr. Henry A.
-MacNeil, the statue of Franklin, by Mr. Carl Rohl-Smith, together with
-scores of other works of more or less importance, would, if listed, make
-a long catalogue of
-
-[Illustration: FEMALE FIGURE FROM W. L. DODGE’S DECORATION IN THE
-ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.]
-
-interesting objects of the sculptor’s art. The immense numbers of these
-works, proportionate, of course, to the colossal magnitude of the
-Exposition, forbid even the bare mention of them in detail. In addition
-to this great mass of sculpture work executed for the special purpose of
-supplementing the architecture, it is intended to place at different
-places, notably in the Grand Court and on the grounds, and in the
-colonnades of the Art Building, selected examples of ancient sculpture,
-various reproductions of antique monuments.
-
-An essential part of the decoration of the building is, of course, the
-architectural details, the models of which have been executed by various
-parties, notably Ellin & Kitson, of New York, and Evans, of Boston, with
-distinguished taste and skill. The capitals, mouldings, and ornaments of
-Greek and Roman buildings have been accurately copied on a scale and in
-a manner never before attempted. A few short months ago there was in
-this country but a very limited number of full-sized reproductions of
-any of the notable details of ancient architecture. The cast of the
-great Jupiter Stator capital was, it is said, found in but a single
-architect’s office. Now the whole range of details, from the beautiful
-Ionic capitals of the Temple of Minerva Polias to the mouldings of the
-Arch of Titus, are practically at the command of any architect and
-student.
-
-Much has been said and much written about the proper color to be given
-to the exteriors of the great edifices. Experience shows, even if reason
-had not already dictated the decision, that the nearer they are kept to
-white the better for the architecture. Every experiment which has been
-made to produce
-
-[Illustration:
-
- BANNER ADOPTED FROM THE STANDARD OF SPAIN UNDER FERDINAND AND
- ISABELLA.
-]
-
-[Illustration:
-
- BANNER ADOPTED FROM THE EXPEDITIONARY FLAG OF COLUMBUS.
-]
-
-æsthetic effects of texture suggested by the usual treatment of plaster
-objects has resulted in partial or in total failure, and every time the
-warm white of the staff has been meddled with, its glory has departed.
-But the conditions imposed by the climate, by the impossibility of
-securing a homogeneous surface, and by the exposure and consequent
-discoloration of a certain portion of the work, have made it necessary
-to apply some sort of paint to all the buildings. Ordinary white-lead
-and oil have been found to give the best results, for the irregular
-absorption of the staff and the weathering rapidly produce an agreeable,
-not too montonous an effect, and the surface deteriorates less rapidly
-after this treatment. The single notable exception to this simple scale
-of color is found on the Transportation Building, which was given to
-Healy and Millet, of Chicago, to cover with a polychromatic decoration,
-carrying out the original intention of the architects, and making it
-unique and splendid in appearance. All the statuary of this building was
-treated with bronze and other metals, the great portal, commonly called
-the “Golden Door,” was exceedingly rich and gorgeous in effect, and the
-intricate ornamentation of the architectural relief decoration had an
-echo in the flat surfaces covered with rich designs.
-
-The decoration of the Exposition would be incomplete without careful
-attention to the informal and festive features, such as flags and
-awnings. Every building presented new conditions, and demanded special
-study and design. A large proportion of the flag-staffs carried
-gonfalons or banners, but a certain number were reserved, naturally, for
-the United States flag and the flags of all nations. At various points
-large poles were planted in the ground, most of them for the purpose of
-displaying the Stars and Stripes, and a group of three poles, with
-ornate bases, elaborate flutings, and proper finials were placed in
-front of the Administration Building. The middle pole to carry a United
-States flag of large dimensions, and flanked on either side by a large
-and sumptuous banner, one adapted from the expeditionary banner of
-Columbus, the other from the standard of Spain at the time of the
-discovery of America.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration] TYPES AND PEOPLE AT THE FAIR
-
-_By J. A. Mitchell_
-
-
-It is no reflection on the Columbian show to confess that perhaps the
-pleasantest moments are those spent in resting one’s rebellious limbs
-upon a bench and in watching the crowd. It may be less novel and
-possibly less instructive than some other exhibits, but it is often more
-amusing. One realizes in studying this infinite stream of humanity how
-little he really knows, personally, of his own countrymen. New types
-seem to have sprung into existence for the sole purpose of appearing at
-this fair. It gives one a startling realization of the varying effects
-of climate, food, and mode of life upon our brothers and sisters. Voice,
-manner, color, size, shape, and mental fittings are so widely different
-as to surest varieties in race. But we are all Americans, and those from
-the interior are more American than the others.
-
-If the native Indian were of a reflective turn of mind, all this might
-awaken unpleasant thoughts. Judging from outside appearance, however, he
-has no thoughts whatever. He stalks solemnly about the grounds with a
-face as impassive as his wooden counterparts on Sixth Avenue. And yet
-_he_ is the American. He is the only one among us who had ancestors to
-be discovered. He is the aboriginal; the first occupant and owner; the
-only one here with an hereditary right to the country we are
-celebrating. Perhaps the native realizes this in his own stolid fashion.
-As he stalks about among the dazzling structures of the Fair, and tries,
-or more likely, does not try, to grasp the innumerable wonders of art
-and science that only annoy and confuse him, it may require a too
-exhausting mental effort to recall the fact that his own grandfather
-very likely pursued the bounding buffalo over the waste of prairie now
-covered by the city of Chicago. He, at least, if his education permitted
-it, could claim historic connection with the country when Columbus came
-so near discovering it; whereas our own connection with the discoverer
-is certainly remote, and sometimes suggests (with the fact that he from
-whom we have named the Fair never actually saw this particular country)
-that we are taking liberties with his name.
-
-[Illustration: TRYING TO GET THE BETTER OF THE NATIVE.]
-
-The unconquerable American desire to do things on a bigger scale than
-anybody else, which often results in our “biting off more than we can
-chew,” has again run away with us. There are many illustrations of this
-gnawing hunger at the World’s Fair. In fact the Fair itself, as a whole,
-comes painfully near being an illustration in point. A colossal
-enterprise too vast and complex to permit of its attaining a perfect
-finish in the time allowed, seems to give more joy to our occidental
-spirits than any possible perfection on a smaller scale. Crudity has
-little terror for us. The whole scheme is so vast and comprehensive, and
-the scale so hopelessly magnificent, that the visitor finds he has
-neither the spirit, spine, nor legs to even partially take it in. In
-fact the farther he goes the more he realizes the futility of the
-undertaking. And the hapless enthusiast who proposes to see, even
-superficially, the more important exhibits, should be fitted with a
-wrought-iron spine, nerves of catgut, and one more summer. In all the
-departments, from the fine arts to canned tomatoes, there is more than
-enough in numbers and in area to wear out the energy and paralyze the
-brain. To visit the Fair with profit or comfort you must leave your
-sense of duty behind. Whoever goes there with intent to thoroughly “do
-it,” is laying up for himself anguish of mind and the complete
-annihilation of his muscular and nervous force. It is far too big for
-any question of conscience to be allowed to enter in. Its bigness is
-beyond description. No words or pictures can tell the story of its size.
-Experience alone can teach it. You must go there day after day, to
-return at night with tired eyes and aching limbs, and with the bitter
-and ever-increasing knowledge that as an exhibition you can never grasp
-it. Where other exhibitions have been satisfied with a display of an
-hundred cubic feet of any special article, Chicago must have at least an
-acre. Of whatever the world has seen before this time it now sees larger
-specimens and more of them. This means for the visitor more steps, more
-fatigue, more confusion, more time, and more money.
-
-[Illustration: FAKIRS.]
-
-But there is a good side to all this, if one can forget his physical
-fatigue. Few of us fully realize what the Fair is doing for this country
-æsthetically. Not so much by its art collections, for the average
-American sees, or can see, enough good paintings in the course of a year
-to bring up his standard to a respectable level if he so elects, but by
-the architecture of the buildings themselves. Unless the aforementioned
-“Average American” is an undeserving barbarian who has made up his mind
-to prefer the wrong thing, these impressive monuments cannot fail to do
-him good. The honest beauty of their design ought to stamp itself with
-sufficient force upon his dawning reason to make him see the crudity of
-the United States architecture in which he has wallowed up to date. No
-praise is too high for what Chicago has achieved in this direction.
-There are, of course, at the Fair some painful examples of what the
-untamed American architect loves to do, but he is fortunately in the
-minority. And the very contrast he offers works for progress in the
-cause of good art and a higher standard. The United States Building,
-designed by a Government architect, is a melancholy warning.
-
-The more intimate one becomes with this particular fair, the more
-forcibly he realizes the fact that we are, above all else, a practical
-people. After being duly impressed by the gigantic proportions and
-artistic excellence of the buildings, for which no praise is too high,
-we come gradually to learn, as we meander among the exhibits, that those
-things which excite our surprise and curiosity are generally the results
-of ingenuity and manual skill. In those departments, for instance,
-relating to art, literature, and history, there is little to startle the
-traveller who is at all familiar with previous international shows. The
-best in the art galleries is, as usual, from Europe. There is no
-dodging the fact that the average American is not overladen with the
-artistic sense. His enthusiasm runs in other directions. When it comes
-to the outward manifestations of human ingenuity, he is “on deck;” he is
-“in it” and “with you.” The application of electricity to filling teeth,
-or converting sawdust into table-butter, kindles in his bosom an
-excitement he never experienced in the art department. It certainly
-seems, after a visit to the electricity and machinery, that human hands
-can do nothing that is not more quickly accomplished by some machine.
-Not only this, but time and distance count for nothing, and, if we keep
-on as we have started, the day will soon be here when the man in Maine
-can shake hands with his friend in Arizona. Already the sun is a
-hard-working slave. Light, air, water, and in fact all nature, seems
-cruelly overworked. If she ever strikes, it will be an awkward period
-for us. These mechanical and scientific surprises make it interesting to
-speculate as to possible sights at our next grand exhibition, say twenty
-years hence. The man in China, for instance, need not go to the future
-fair at all. He will probably be able to see and hear it all at home. If
-he does go he can return to Shanghai for his lunch.
-
-But the American as seen at this fair, although first of all practical,
-is not, from another point of view, so far behind in his artistic sense
-as we are in the habit of considering him. In the first place, he is
-found, as a rule, standing before the best paintings and passing by the
-poorer ones. Those galleries containing the finest works are invariably
-the most crowded. And this is the greatest compliment we can pay
-ourselves. If, on the other hand, enthusiastic groups collected about
-the impressionists, and took pleasure in the purple and yellow
-“effects,” that are sprinkled about the French and American sections,
-there would be cause for anxiety. But such is not the case. That the
-impressionists still count their warmest admirers among themselves,
-their wives, sisters, and aunts, is a hopeful sign. As a people, we take
-many things less seriously than some of our contemporaries, but in
-matters of art we like it with a purpose. Too little clothing still
-strikes us as frivolous and improper. Blood, violence, and all
-unpleasantness are sometimes historically instructive, but, as a rule,
-we are fond of comfortable subjects. We still like a taste of sugar in
-our art.
-
-But the brightest sign of all is the universal and hearty appreciation
-by the multitude of the buildings themselves. The expressions of delight
-by those who see for the first time these marvels of architectural
-beauty, indicate at least a capacity for artistic enjoyment. In fact,
-the American who steps for the first time upon the borders of the Grand
-Basin, and looks upon the scene before him without a tingle of pride and
-pleasure is not of the stuff he should be. No words can give a just idea
-of the magnificence and restful beauty of this gigantic achievement.
-Rome and Greece were of marble and built for a more serious purpose.
-This is a city for a single summer. As such it is a complete and
-glorious triumph.
-
- * * * * *
-
-There is nothing like a colossal exhibition to emphasize the disastrous
-effects of wealth upon the human spirit. Your friend with plenty of
-money goes to the Fair because others do and because he hates to be “out
-of it.” He reaches Chicago in a palace car, occupies luxurious rooms at
-a comfortable and expensive hotel, takes a carriage when others walk,
-and at the exhibition itself derives pleasure only from those things
-that are unexpectedly novel. And to him such sights are few and such
-sensations rare. What he does realize, however, continually and with
-force, is the enormity of the crowd with its thoughtless persistence in
-holding the best places in front of those exhibits he wishes to see
-himself. Moreover, there is an ever-increasing sense of physical
-discomfort, and that is something your moneyed friend is slow to
-forgive. But he does his duty, and he is glad above all to get home
-again.
-
-But how different with your less prosperous friend, who has been
-economizing for months in order to get there! It being an expensive
-business, his time is limited, and he drinks it in through all his
-senses, excitedly and with large gulps. It is hard work, but how
-interesting! That dull pain which overtakes the great majority of
-sightseers soon catches him in the back of his neck, but as long as he
-can see, hear, and walk, he profits by his opportunities. And he goes to
-his home mentally refreshed, a broader and a wiser man. He has gained an
-experience he would not exchange for many dollars.
-
-[Illustration: A BRIDE AND GROOM.]
-
-An unlooked-for feature of the exhibition is the profusion of newly
-married couples. Whether all this individual ecstasy adds gayety or
-mournfulness to the Fair depends, of course, entirely upon the point of
-view from which the victims are regarded. It is evident that many happy
-grooms have considered this a chance to kill two birds with one stone,
-and, as far as one can judge results from outward appearances, there is
-no question as to the practical working of the scheme. The happy couple
-find themselves in a sort of fairy land, wandering about among countless
-strangers, whose very numbers seem to lend security and to harden the
-over-sensitive soul. The crowd also seems to create a feeling of
-isolation which the innermost recesses of a virgin forest could never
-supply. Moreover, there is here so much else to occupy the attention of
-the usually obnoxious public that the bride and groom can hold hands
-with absolute security and be as bold or blushing as their temperaments
-may demand.
-
-The rolling-chairs that run about the grounds and through the buildings
-are the salvation of many a fainting spirit. To thousands of human
-beings with nothing but a human back and human legs the fair would be a
-failure without them. They are support for the weary, strength for the
-weak, and hope and a new life for the despairing. The guides who
-navigate them are, as a rule, college students, profiting by this
-opportunity to see the fair and to secure additional dollars toward
-completing their studies. The result is, for the occupant of the chair,
-an intelligent and agreeable companion, who is ready and willing to give
-any information he may possess. And besides, they are neither sharks nor
-liars, but fair and honorable respecters of truth. There is sometimes a
-contrast in manners and education between the occupant of the chair and
-the man behind that is not in favor of the former. When one sees what is
-evidently a citizen with far more money than brains, and without the
-faintest appreciation of the beauties that encompass him, wheeled about
-at seventy-five cents an hour by a youth so far his superior that any
-comparison is impossible, it causes one to realize that Fortune is
-indeed an irresponsible flirt, who is never so happy as when doing the
-wrong thing.
-
-A not uncommon sight, and one of the countless illustrations of what an
-excellent husband the American becomes when properly trained, is that of
-the weary, uninterested man, lingering patiently among laces, china, and
-views of Switzerland. His heart all the while is off with the machinery,
-possibly with that more than human little machine that winds the cotton
-on the spools. Such cases are, of course, offset by the devoted women
-who wear themselves out in tramping through soulless acres of
-agricultural products, locomotives, wagons, models of ships, and all the
-other follies that appeal to man.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The burning question of the hour for the visitor from another city is
-the question of finance. He who is worth his million and intends
-spending a fortnight in Chicago, will do well to take his million with
-him. He may bring some of it away, but that will depend entirely upon
-his own capacity for economy. Before registering at the hotel let him be
-sure to secure his return ticket, for it is a long walk from Chicago to
-New York. These remarks are not intended to discourage all who are not
-millionaires from visiting the exhibition. It can be done with less
-money. The writer has himself accomplished it. In fact, it is only fair
-to say that many of the stories of extortion which have come from the
-White City are much exaggerated. The most successful brigands are in the
-city of Chicago, and not at the Fair.
-
-The writer can testify, from his own personal experience, that a very
-good lunch can be procured in the State of Illinois for less than one
-hundred dollars. Thirty dollars is more than enough for a sandwich, and
-a glass of water can be purchased anywhere for less than ninety cents.
-While to walk by the _cafés_ and restaurants and look upon others who
-are eating, costs the promenader nothing whatever. But these moderate
-prices do not obtain at your hotel. The object of keeping a hotel is,
-like some other occupations, partly to make money. The Chicago
-hotel-keeper does not ignore this fact. [Illustration: THE QUESTION OF
-FINANCE.]
-
-His ideas of the relation of profit to expenditure are well calculated
-to startle the guest of reasonable expectations. If the guest is not
-overweeningly ambitious and is satisfied to sleep in a closet or hang
-from the stairs, his expenses need be no greater than if he occupied a
-handsome suite of rooms at any first-class New York hotel. But if he
-insists on having a real chamber, larger even than his own bathroom at
-home, and with a real window in it, then he must pay. And it is then
-that he begins to discover why his landlord keeps a hotel. Any previous
-extravagances in the way of horses, real estate, or precious stones are
-as nothing to the present outlay. He finds that the rate per diem is, as
-far as he can judge, based upon the supposition that the hotel is to be
-closed to-morrow and must be paid for to-day. And real estate is high,
-even in Chicago. In matters of nourishment, the wealth of Ormus is of no
-avail, unless the waiter receives a tip exceeding in value the
-handsomest Christmas present ever given to a dearest friend.
-
-Within the grounds there is little extortion, thanks to the firmness of
-the ruling powers.
-
-[Illustration: CAFÉ IN THE MIDWAY PLAISANCE.]
-
-But let not the Chicagoan whose eye may fall upon these lines suppose
-for an instant that they are intended as reflections on his character.
-The city that secured the prize is simply fulfilling its inevitable
-destiny. Had New York drawn the plum we should have witnessed a worse
-extortion, with the added mortification of a much inferior exhibition.
-Moreover, there is no public spirit in New York, and there is a great
-deal of it in Chicago. This sentiment alone is more than enough to make
-the difference between success and failure. The woods are full of
-citizens willing to begin at sunrise and discourse to you until midnight
-of the wonders of Chicago. In ordinary times this burning desire to
-impart just that kind of information is not always appreciated by the
-outside world; but in times of fairs the spirit that prompts it becomes
-a mighty engine. It was soon demonstrated that these citizens could work
-as well as talk, and as a result the White City has risen as from a
-fairy’s wand.
-
-The important question for the individual citizen is whether it is worth
-his while to go to this fair. And this, of course, depends altogether
-upon his purse, his stomach, his back, his legs, nerves, wife, children,
-and business. He may never have another such opportunity for mental
-expansion and physical discomfort. It is a marvel of architectural
-beauty. It is days of instruction, of art and science, of surprise and
-exasperation, of mental development, fatigue, and financial ruin. In the
-end his personal preferences, however, will probably have little to do
-with it. All the world are going, and he must go too.
-
-
-
-
-THE ART OF THE WHITE CITY
-
-_By Will H. Low_
-
-
-On the way west to the White City, to “the stately pleasure-dome
-decreed,” where the arts of civilization by the unwritten law of
-International Expositions hold their court, the observant traveller
-finds abundant food for thought. Beyond Niagara, assuming his point of
-departure to be New York, he sees in the landscape through which he is
-whirled a continuous sweep of flat farming land, but little water;
-fences everywhere, trees sparsely scattered, and plain box-like houses
-telling only of shelter; abundant barns differing little from the
-dwellings, and from time to time towns of varied nomenclature ranging
-from Delhi to Kalamazoo. Through the horizontal blur caused by the speed
-of the train through which all this is seen, there appear, principally
-about the stations, figures which lend a languid interest to the dead
-level of monotony.
-
-The human interest of the picture, however, tells the same story as the
-landscape--a story of hard work, of material reward, an acquiescence in
-the law by which labor gains bread and shelter, and little else.
-Occasionally, in the immediate vicinity of the stations, there is some
-attempt at adornment, generally confined to “tidying up” the
-surroundings; but around the farm-houses few or no flowers, little or no
-attempt to beautify the home, nothing of the almost frantic suburban
-effort of the East which has made the country kaleidoscopically varied
-with color, for the most part bad, yet giving hope that the next
-generation will do better, and pointing at least to a desire for beauty.
-Individual effort, unseen along the route, may be slandered by the
-preceding, but such for many monotonous miles seemed the foreground of
-the picture we were journeying to see.
-
-At last a plain, varied by marshes, through which boarded walks running
-at right angles, with an occasional house here and there, testified to
-the various suburban excrescences of a great city; then a dome or two,
-towers, flags fluttering in the sun, innumerable trains, clangor of
-bells and shrieking of whistles; and with Chicago seven miles away,
-hidden in a pall of smoke, the White City was at hand.
-
-There are certain mastering impressions in one’s life, certain scenes
-which stamp the memory, and, like the priceless _kakemono_ which the
-reverent Japanese withdraws from hiding when in the mood to
-
-[Illustration: LIGHTING THE NATURAL GAS TORCHES ON THE ROOF OF THE
-ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.]
-
-enjoy it, rise obedient to one’s thought in aftertime. Such a memory is
-that of a first sunny morning in Paris: a ride from the Madeleine across
-the Place de la Concorde, along the Tuileries Gardens and the Louvre,
-across the Seine with the island and Notre Dame in the distance, and
-then through older Paris to the gardens of the Luxembourg. Or again, a
-certain early moonlit evening in Florence, with the Duomo looming at the
-end of the street, Giotto’s Campanile standing sentinel at its side, the
-narrow street to the Piazza della Signoria with its Palazzo Vecchio and
-the Loggia dei Lanzi, thence by the side of the Uffizi to the Arno and
-across the Ponte Vecchio up to the Pitti Palace. These memories, common
-to so many, are often gained on ground made familiar through study of
-guide-books and photographs which, instead of dulling realization, add
-to it the zest of more thorough appreciation. In like manner, study,
-discussion, photographs, and engravings prepare one for the Columbian
-Exposition; but the first few hours of living in its architectural
-dreamland gives reality to the shadowy preconception, and adds the
-priceless gift of another masterpiece to memory’s picture-gallery.
-
-It is probably impracticable in any case, and when we think of the
-transformation that this prairie has witnessed in two short years, quite
-impossible, in the case of the Exposition, to keep the approaches of a
-great popular resort in any degree beautiful. Here we have on the land
-side of the Fair the usual assemblage of cheap shows, lemonade venders,
-and the like, which line the unsightly fence and make up what a friend
-has dubbed the Sideway Unpleasant. The fence is hard to pardon in a land
-where energy is predominant, desire to do the best not wanting, and
-_staff_ abundant. A high white wall enclosing the substantial fabric of
-their dream would have done much to give the western approach something
-of the festal magnificence which the architects have given to the
-entrance by the Peristyle at the lake side.
-
-[Illustration: AT NIGHT ON THE MIDWAY PLAISANCE.]
-
-But once within, to pick flaws criticism must take a higher flight than
-one, frankly astonished at the goodness of it all, is disposed to permit
-it to. Nothing is perfect in this mundane sphere, but this effort on
-lines as yet untrodden by these States has such measure of success that
-one is proud to feel that this has been done in our own time, in one’s
-own country, by men of one’s own race--the race that peoples our
-seaboard, fills our manufacturing towns, tills our great farms, and
-stretching westward extracts precious metals here and cultivates
-orange-groves and vineyards there; the race which is daily urged, on the
-“whaleback” steamer from the city to the Fair, to purchase its
-chewing-gum before the boat starts, as none is sold after leaving the
-pier; the race that is so cosmopolitan, so made up from strange and
-opposing elements, and is withal so homogeneous, so American--and proud,
-above all, to feel that this curious people have had, at the crucial
-moment, the good sense to be inconsistent, to make haste slowly, to
-defer to the few, to make their Exposition the most beautiful before
-setting to work to make it, as things needs must be here, the biggest in
-all creation.
-
-[Illustration: INDIAN GIRL AND BULL, MODELLED BY FRENCH & POTTER.]
-
-To be of this race and a follower of the arts; to have noted for years
-the growth of public desire for
-
-[Illustration]
-
-art and the frequent lapses to indifference on its part; to have seen
-that our artists as they grow in strength and numbers claimed the right
-to do something larger and finer and better than the private house, the
-portrait statue, or the _genre_ picture; and then to come here, where
-for the first time they have found opportunity, and where the alliance
-of architecture, sculpture, and painting has produced its first work, to
-find that first work surprisingly good, is to feel proud not alone for
-the valiant craftsmen who have produced this result, but for the country
-at large which has stood behind them, and above all for the solid men
-of the city of Chicago who have planned the work so bravely and so
-wisely. So many elements enter into an enterprise of this kind that to a
-community like ours (unaided by a parental government which, as in
-France, takes upon itself, as one of its functions, the provision of
-public pageant and amusement, and keeps as it were all the material in
-stock) the problem was more than difficult, and the solution, solved as
-it has been, most surprising. Eighteen months ago in Paris, as I stood
-with a French friend in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, he said,
-indicating the colossal construction, “I suppose that at Chicago you
-will have a tower bigger than that, and that your exposition will be a
-triumph of that sort of thing.” “I suppose that it may,” was the answer;
-but the tower which is such a blot on Paris, diminishing in scale her
-most beautiful monuments, is nowhere to be seen in Chicago, and though
-the bones and sinews of the Liberal Arts building may be a “triumph of
-that sort of thing,” its flesh of staff effectively covers and adorns it
-without concealment of construction or strength, but with due
-consideration paid to beauty.
-
-To house the exhibits, to provide for instruction, and to make a
-pleasure-ground for the people (it could be urged from a utilitarian
-point of view) might indeed have been done more simply, or, as the
-phrase runs, in a more “business-like” way. One rugged old farmer I
-overheard, as I stood leaning on the balustrade at the back of the
-MacMonnies fountain, as he pulled his wife away from the contemplation
-of the charming group of mermaids and sea-babies who disport themselves
-in the wake of Columbia’s triumphal galley, “Come along, Maria, I never
-see no use in them things; women with fishes’ tails.” Maria went along,
-but I fancied that Maria’s daughter lingered a moment, and she may have
-found the “use” of the artist in the social system. At any rate, the
-Chicago business man who individually and collectively represents the
-controlling power of this vast enterprise knew the use of beauty, and
-with the sagacity born of commercial success called to his aid the men
-most eminent in their professions, and then--left them alone.
-
-Arguing without absolute knowledge, is it not easy to imagine that many
-times during the two years spent in constructing these superb
-structures, the heart of the business man must have failed him in seeing
-this child of his creation grow in beauty and strength to be sure, but
-at a cost of so many millions? No record exists, it is safe to say, of
-any questioning. The artists had been called in, they were doing their
-work loyally; and no less loyally, through financial crisis, business
-depression, and public indifference, the business man performed his part
-of the contract. He had pledged himself to the whole country to do his
-best, the pledge had been given and accepted in the hour when he bore
-the coveted privilege to hold the Exposition away from competing cities,
-and the Court of Honor shows how well the pledge has been kept. A detail
-of organization, one of the many which would make the history of the
-Exposition most interesting if written, was told the other day, and is
-so characteristic of the spirit in which the Fair has been put through,
-that it is worth incorporating here. At a time when the Exposition had
-reached the limits of all possible insurance, when every sound insurance
-company in the world was carrying all the risks it was able to take, the
-Exposition concluded to do its own insurance, the details of which
-procedure need not be gone into here. At this time there were a number
-of pictures, about nine in all, which had been promised for the Loan
-Collection of Foreign Masterpieces, and were not forthcoming because of
-the inability of the Exposition to procure special insurance policies
-which had been promised when, long before, the owners of the pictures
-had consented to lend them. There seemed no way out of the difficulty,
-when the simple question was asked of the head of the Art Department, if
-it was essential to the completeness of the Loan Collection that these
-pictures should be in it? To which was answered, that if not essential,
-it was at least desirable; whereat this business man gave instructions
-that the owners of the pictures be at once communicated with and
-informed that he would personally guarantee them against loss if they
-would allow the pictures to come. As this little show of public spirit
-involved a personal liability of over two hundred thousand dollars, the
-figures may be considered eloquent enough to find place in such a paper
-as this.
-
-The wisdom of a large policy is to be found on every hand. The
-Exposition has been called a dream, and as it is so soon to vanish may
-well be one; but if the intent had been to deceive, it could hardly have
-been made more deceptive. To one in the gondolas or the launches
-speeding between these walls, they stand as though for all time; and for
-one walking in the long arcades, detail and veracity of construction
-force themselves on the attention most plausibly. It has been too often
-described how the architects, adopting certain dimensions, have obtained
-a conformity of effect; but that once obtained, they have shown the
-greatest freedom, and though all of them are men of many works, they
-have never perhaps been more happily inspired. The Administration
-building is the appropriate crown to the buildings leading up to it, and
-Mr. McKim’s Agricultural building is characterized by great charm of
-proportion, and though heavily charged with sculptured decoration is in
-nowise overloaded. In addition to the very decorative sculptures due to
-Mr. Martiny, there is on this building some of the most satisfactory
-ornament in purely classical vein that I can remember on any modern
-structure. In fact, though the treatment of this group of buildings is
-thoroughly classic, it is pleasant to record the belief that in no other
-country would the traditions have been so well observed and at the same
-time so revivified as in ours. Our men owe their education to the Old
-World, chiefly to France; but it seems as though a certain separation
-from the influences of their schools had given them an independence
-which their foreign schoolmates lack. It is probable that had Paris in
-1889 adopted the programme followed here the result would have been as
-correct, as thorough, as noble as this; but the result as a whole would
-have been colder, and lacking in the individual character observable
-here, where every man seems to continue the tradition rather than follow
-it. Mr. Post had long accustomed us to his capacity to build big and
-well; but never to build so big and so well as in the Liberal Arts
-building. When sailing along the lake-front one appreciates the
-immensity of the structure, which seems to equal that of all the other
-buildings combined; but near at hand one feels its beauty more than its
-bigness, and the simplicity by which this result is arrived at. The
-portals, taking almost all the decorative features, are admirable. Mr.
-Atwood’s Fine Arts building is perhaps the best where all is so good,
-owing almost nothing to its decorative features--which, as the building
-is to be permanent, one may hope to see changed. The frieze of the
-Parthenon should hardly be borrowed to grace so fine a modern building.
-At night Mr. Atwood’s building is seen in all its beauty of proportion,
-and the nights when it is illuminated best of all. The torches running
-along the top of the building burn great flames of natural gas, and the
-illumination is at once simple and effective. On the roof of the
-Administration building something of the same effect is obtained in
-conjunction with the electric light outlining the dome; but as the
-torches on the Fine Arts building are seen against the sky, the effect
-is finer.
-
-Night and electric light play a great part in the spectacular side of
-the Fair. Solomon in all his glory never saw such a sight as the plain
-people of this continent have had on illumination nights this summer.
-Innumerable incandescent lights sparkle along the cornices and
-pediments; the top of the wall inclosing the grand basin is outlined in
-fire; search-lights from the top of the Liberal Arts building cut their
-wide swaths of light in gigantic circles, resting for a moment here and
-there to bring out now this detail or to throw into dazzling relief a
-
-[Illustration: CENTRAL PORTION OF MACMONNIES FOUNTAIN--EFFECT OF
-ELECTRIC-LIGHT.]
-
-sculptured figure or beast. It lingers longest on MacMonnies’s fountain,
-the fitting jewel resting lightly on the bosom of this Venetian beauty
-whom but yesterday we called Chicago; and well it may, as in a degree
-the fountain is the _clou_ of the Exposition. It seems but fair to call
-this fountain the most important of all the decorative sculptures. Every
-exposition has its great fountain, and the choice of Mr. MacMonnies to
-execute this one was most happy. Our sculptors as a rule have had too
-little opportunity to exercise the decorative side of their art, and we
-do not possess as does France a small army of sculptors who can be, as
-they were in ’89, turned loose to decorate a great exposition with
-groups and figures. It demands not only a decorative instinct but
-practice as well, a certain habit of and delight in handling huge masses
-of form which men who are capable perhaps of graver and more ponderated
-work may lack or have lost. Thus fifteen years ago Saint-Gaudens, fresh
-from school and filled with its traditions, would have in the course of
-natural selection been the man for the work; but with years and widening
-experience it is a question whether he would have undertaken to design
-and carry out in the short space of time that which his brilliant pupil
-has undertaken and carried through with all the audacity and fire of
-youth, tempered by a delicacy of taste which gives it after all its
-greatest value. Anything more typical of the youth and hope which we
-fondly believe to be the characteristic of our nation is hard to
-conceive; and if, as is to be so greatly desired, the monument is to be
-made permanent (which the completeness of the modelling of individual
-parts, an unusual quality in works like this, would render easy), it
-might well stand to represent an era. Mr. French’s massive and dignified
-figure of America may be taken as the matron of this generation, tried
-and made strong through war; but MacMonnies’s epitome of youth
-represents the future of our as yet experimental civilization, and
-though the boat is propelled by the arts and sciences, it is the young
-girl who fills such a large part in our experiment who is really to the
-fore. It is Smith and Wellesley who row with the young girl enthroned;
-and _vogue la galère_, with pleasant waters ahead and a safe port at
-last!
-
-Of Mr. Saint-Gaudens we have only a figure of Columbus, which he has
-signed in collaboration with another of his pupils, Miss Mary G.
-Lawrence. It is a good exemplification of what has already been said
-that at the first glance this figure seems almost out of place here. It
-is of a character--the highest character--of work which depends on the
-most serious study. Conception and pose are reduced to the simplest,
-almost archaic form, and while it does not seem quite as successful, it
-is of the same family as the Lincoln here in Chicago or the Deacon
-Chapin in Springfield. The best of the sculpture here, while subject to
-the limitations twice mentioned, has perhaps gained a quality more
-essentially American by the absence of what may be called the ready-made
-decorative quality. The quadriga on the Peristyle, by French & Potter,
-the Indian girl and the bull, and indeed all the figures and animals at
-which these artists have worked together, are thoroughly satisfactory as
-decoration, and more native and appropriate to our soil than the lighter
-touch and greater facility of the sculpture at the exhibition on the
-Champ de Mars would have been.
-
-The painters of the band of allied artists had the more difficult task.
-In the first place our country has arbitrarily forced our painters to
-work on a miniature scale, and with little exception our men affronted
-their task with theory and enthusiasm as their preparation. The
-sculptors had at least the practice of modelling large works; but with
-the exception of Mr. Maynard, who has taken Pompeian motives and given
-us under the porches of the Agricultural building a thoroughly
-architectural and adequate decoration in which his past experience has
-rendered him service, the painters were virtually winning their first
-spurs. Taking this into consideration their success is marked. Tried by
-the standard that the space allotted to a decoration should be filled,
-and filled by a composition which could not serve within any other
-shaped space than that for which it is devised, Mr. Blashfield’s seems
-the most successful. In addition to this quality it has great charm of
-color and dignity of conception, which latter quality, combined with
-clean, workmanlike drawing, is shared by Mr. Cox. Mr. Reid’s and Mr.
-Weir’s domes also have charming qualities, while Mr. Shirlaw’s gives one
-the impression of a complete mastery of his scheme and intention. At the
-southern end of the Liberal Arts building, Mr. Melchers and Mr. McEwen
-have large compositions, those of the latter being marked perhaps by the
-greater individuality; but while they are all (each painter having two
-compositions) executed in a very able manner, they seem somewhat lacking
-in spontaneity. In another part of the grounds in the Women’s building
-the feminine contingent makes a brave show. Mrs. MacMonnies here leads
-the van with a composition sober in line and excellent in color. Miss
-Cassatt, having apparently defied the laws of decoration, has divided
-her space in three parts, in each of which she has painted pictures
-which, from her previous work, must be judged to be of excellent
-quality, but which, from the height at which they are seen and by reason
-of the small scale of the figures, are virtually lost. But this partial
-and cursory enumeration of what may be seen at the Fair could be
-continued beyond the limits of an article like this, and still leave
-unnamed and apparently unappreciated much that is admirable and more
-that is hopeful. Of the delights of living in the midst of this, of
-seeing our people in holiday trim and, albeit, taking their pleasure
-somewhat sadly and getting as much instruction combined with it as
-possible, still enjoying it, much could be said. No mention has been
-made of the State buildings, which give, however, so much character to
-the grounds. New York’s imperial palace, bright and luxurious, is
-flanked on one side by Massachusetts’s staid and trim reproduction of
-John Hancock’s mansion, with additions of a character which must temper
-the smile of gentle reproof with which it regards its frivolous
-neighbor; while on the other stands Pennsylvania’s broad piazzaed home
-which shelters the Liberty bell. New Jersey reproduces a colonial
-“Head-quarters” mansion, and Washington is big and new and booming;
-California shows her fruits and extols her wines in a lowlying structure
-which recalls the _adobe_ missions of her first settlers; and each and
-every State has here its home, first for its own people and then for the
-neighbors. Strange neighbors we have too, for the Midway Plaisance is
-not far away with its turbaned, sandalled, greased, and befeathered
-inhabitants, with its German and Austrian bands, its great difference of
-tongues and great similarity of _cuisine_. The outdoor life which is
-made so much of in Europe here seems unappreciated; the numberless
-cafés and out-of-door restaurants which make up so much of the comfort
-with which one sees an exposition there still “leave to be desired”
-here. But these are details and of things earthy. The moral of the tale
-is short and easily read.
-
-Our work-a-day nation awakened, it has been frequently said, to
-knowledge of the existence of art as a factor in life at Philadelphia
-seventeen years ago, and here and now attains as it were its majority.
-We may leave out our exhibit in the Fine Arts building proper, with the
-mere registration of the fact that by general consent it holds its own
-as well or better than close students of our art have known that it has
-done for several years past. The exhibition, or that part controlled by
-the Columbian Commission, is our best sign of progress, nay, of
-achievement. It has proved that throughout the land when occasion arises
-to build, to carve, or to paint, we have the men to do it. Art hath her
-victories no less than commerce; the qualities which have given us our
-place among nations, now that the struggle is past, are turned in
-gentler paths; and that which was prophecy so short a time ago is now
-truth realized:
-
- “Following the sun, westward the march of power,
- The rose of might blooms in our new-world mart;
- But see just bursting forth from bud to flower
- A late, slow growth, the fairer rose of art.”
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration] FOREGROUND AND VISTA AT THE FAIR
-
-_By W. Hamilton Gibson_
-
-
-By the time this brief sketch shall have appeared in print the world’s
-greatest international fair will have thrown open its gates to the
-impatient multitudes, and millions will have looked with rapture upon
-its impressive perspectives of palaces and enjoyed their treasures. Even
-to the great general public, who are as yet awaiting with eager
-anticipation the indispensable outing at the Fair, its surpassing
-architectural features are already enticingly familiar. The “White City”
-is already a heritage of delight and inspiration to a vast multitude who
-have spent their available days beneath the spell of its enchantment.
-
-It is no small thing thus to have penetrated the veil, as it were, as is
-here actually done for many--to have materialized a vision--to have
-embodied a paradise. The “Heavenly City,” the “New Jerusalem,” with
-gates of gold and pearl, which in one questionable shape or another
-hovers in the hopeful, faithful fancy of so many of the sons of Adam
-will here find a realization, supplanting or exalting the ideal which
-has hitherto not always been to the glory of Heaven.
-
-But in thus paying tribute to the architect we are perhaps unconsciously
-crediting him with more than his due; certainly more than he would
-himself claim. Of what avail were beautiful palaces if they could not be
-seen? and how easily might such an assemblage of heroic structures such
-as these at Jackson Park, as in previous similar expositions, have been
-so disposed, with relation to each other and their environment, as to
-have completely lost not only their individual impressiveness but the
-infinite advantage of their imposing _ensemble_.
-
-We traverse the winding lagoon for an hour in continual delight, every
-passing moment, every quiet turn of our launch or gondola beneath
-arching bridge or jutting revetement opening up in either direction new
-and ravishing vistas of architectural beauty. Yet how little have we
-considered that the very means of our enjoyment, the pure blue waterway
-upon which our gondola so listlessly floats, is the crowning artifice by
-which the work of the architect is glorified--a very triumph and
-inspiration in the great scheme of landscape--say rather
-waterscape--gardening, which has made this Columbian Fair a unique model
-for all others of its kind. I think it is conceded by the architects of
-the Fair that in no way are its buildings to be seen to such
-satisfaction or full effect as from the lagoon. And it is well to
-remember, if only as an instructive object-lesson, as we glide upon this
-liquid street, how much of our present enjoyment is due to the
-forethought of a supreme design, which, even before a single
-foundation-wall was laid, had taken into account the most effective
-grouping of the architectural features.
-
-More than this, too, how many of these fortunate architects must have
-realized the rare satisfaction of having builded better than they knew,
-when for the first time they viewed their works from the vantage point
-afforded by their collaborator, the landscape artist, and saw these
-superb creations given back to them in twofold beauty from the clear
-mirror of the lagoon. The unique character and important innovation of
-this lagoon feature may be inferred when we consider that we have here
-an Exposition covering over five hundred and fifty acres, comfortably
-filled to its limits with the ample buildings, and yet no vehicles are
-to be allowed within its enclosure, and none will be required. The
-circuitous elevated
-
-[Illustration: THE BORDER OF THE LAGOON.]
-
-railroad will of course transport the multitudes; while by the interior
-skilful distribution of the water-ways, rippling with gayly caparisoned
-gondolas by the score, and a hundred trim electric launches and other
-equally picturesque craft, every portion of the grounds will be easily
-accessible. The entire circuit on this water-course, from any given
-point, will occupy nearly an hour. The luxurious tourist arriving at his
-destination is invited at the water’s edge by ascending terraces of
-marble steps, their balustrades on either side overtopped by picturesque
-masses of tropic and other luxuriant vegetation. Huge bronze-like
-agaves surmount the lofty marble urns; cannas, musas, caladiums, in most
-effective and artistic groups, are dispersed among broad expanses of
-velvety sward, begemmed with parterres of brilliant bloom.
-
-But it is not alone in these picturesque settings of lawn and garden
-which everywhere abound throughout the grounds that we find our fullest
-appreciation of the landscape art. In the spell of these imposing
-structures, towering above the revetement walls on each side as we
-traverse the lagoon, we had utterly ignored another feature of its
-banks, or perhaps had our attention only momentarily inveigled thither
-by the invitation of the bevy of snowy ducks or geese or graceful swans
-hastening from our prow, and gliding beneath the overhanging boughs of
-feathery gray willows. Here indeed is a haven for a tired soul, a fairy
-realm whose modest charms are apt to be overlooked in the claims of the
-overwhelming architectural surroundings. But sooner or later its restful
-refuge will be discovered and welcomed. How many a foot-sore mortal,
-weary from the very excess of enthusiasm, will seek this quiet
-retirement, content for the moment to consign the architect to the
-accessory place of vista and horizon, while he roams and pries and muses
-among the labyrinthian paths, fragrant bowers, and shadowy glades, and
-along the reedy flowery borders of this sylvan fairy island, which the
-artistic genius of Olmsted and Codman has here, in two short years,
-conjured up like magic from the muddy, dreary marsh.
-
-[Illustration: A BIT OF THE CALIFORNIAN BUILDING.]
-
-Connected to the mainland by a half-dozen spans of bridges, it is
-readily accessible from any approach. It is a realm of strange
-inconsistencies and surprises, harmonies and pleasant discords, unified
-with the rarest skill. The familiar park or garden at one moment, its
-curving walks encircling more or less--generally less--conventional
-parterre, diversified with closely bedded mosaic of bright blossoms; and
-now a path leading us between high walls of blossom-laden shrubbery,
-skirting a rustic arbor, or winding beneath the shade of tall, dense
-branches of trees, which, however at home they may appear, so
-wonderfully has the skill of the landscapist concealed his artifice, are
-still almost as much strangers to the soil as ourselves; the adjustment
-and grouping giving the complete illusion of nature’s random planting.
-
-[Illustration: THE CALIFORNIAN BUILDING.]
-
-Only a very few of the thousands of trees upon this “wooded
-island”--medium-sized white-oaks--are native tenants of the place. Only
-two years ago isolated in the more elevated dunes of a great morass,
-they now find themselves in strange company; the soil from the bed of
-the lagoon, having levelled the former slopes about their feet, is now
-peopled with individuals as large as themselves. Many a rare nook upon
-the island’s borders would defy the critical scrutiny of the botanist or
-artist to detect a single tell-tale evidence of artifice. Would you step
-from the conventional park to the wild garden in
-
-[Illustration: A COVE IN WOODED ISLAND.]
-
-ten paces? Follow me through this winding path, embowered with its snowy
-banks of spiræa. Pry your way here beneath the branches. A few more
-steps, and the ripples gleam through the branches before us, and we
-emerge at the water’s edge beneath a tangle of willows, while a brood of
-white ducks, disturbed at our approach, glide out upon the
-mill-pond--for such indeed is the irresistible association from the
-surroundings. This haphazard chaos of willows and alders disarms all
-suspicion of artificial planting. We already anticipate the scene at the
-brink, and as we press our way among the yielding oziers, find ourselves
-listening for the familiar “c-r-o-n-k” among the spatter-docks. In a
-moment more we confront a tiny cove bordered with sedges and tall
-bulrushes, and intermingled gray-green willows and alders, while the
-water beneath is hidden by dense clumps of lush pickerel-weed, luxuriant
-in their feathery spikes of azure bloom. A tiny sportive frog leaps from
-the border mud, and a dragon-fly darts past on shimmering wing.
-
-It is only as we contemplate the vista across the water that we realize
-the beautiful deception as yonder beetling dome, in its gilded splendor,
-or sunlit palaces everywhere gleaming through the waters are brought to
-our feet in ripples from gliding gondola, swan, or duck.
-
-Was ever border-tangle brushed by mill-pond raft or fishing-punt more
-wild or spontaneous than this! Foreground and vista in endless
-combination and surprise greet us as we follow our course about the
-shore, with Flora’s own wild calendar from week to week. Here a secluded
-harbor, bristling with arrowheads and white with its spires of bloom,
-its sedgy banks aflame with cardinal flowers, whose scarlet reflections
-mingle with the snowy glints from the sunlit façade or spangling flashes
-from the crystal dome across the water. Here we invade the sheltered
-retreat of a bittern or small heron, which stalks away with ruffled
-temper at our intrusion. Creeping between the neighboring bank of
-alders, we emerge upon a sequestered nook shut off from the main lagoon
-by a small, straggling islet, plumy with willows and sedges, the main
-banks fringed with rushes and burr-marigolds and tall galingales that
-wave their graceful heads above a wild garden of blossoming blue flag.
-In and out among its willows beyond, the ever-present fleet of ducks
-glides among the dancing ripples, or snow-white swans “float
-double--swan and shadow,” as in the enchanted vision of “St. Mary’s
-Isle.”
-
-As we leave this beguiling haunt the air is suddenly bewitched with
-entrancing perfume, and our fancy lit with luminous visions of the
-Orient from the great golden doorway which glows through the branches
-from the opposite brink and floods the water with its liquid replica.
-Attar of roses! One such inviting whiff is sufficient. Leaving the
-water’s edge we return toward the interior of the island, and are soon
-confronted by the wonderful rose-garden wherein are assembled all the
-roses of the world, with their thousands of varieties. Roses single and
-double, pink roses, white roses, roses yellow, crimson, orange, and
-saffron, and, indeed, of every hue but blue, mingling their beauty and
-their fragrance in an acre of bloom, and sprinkling the ground in
-showers of petals with every breeze.
-
-[Illustration: THE EDGE OF THE ROSE GARDEN, WOODED ISLAND.]
-
-The now famous rose-garden lies in the southern end of the island,
-approached through winding walks, garlanded with flowery shrubs of every
-habit and hue, of graceful blossom-burdened spiræas, drooping as with a
-weight of snow, or varied with rare foliaged plants which vie with the
-flowers in the endless play of their brilliant colors. Through the
-skilful foresight and planning of Mr. John Thorpe, the custodian of this
-realm dedicated to Flora, the fair goddess has crowned him with a new
-decoration of wreath or laurel for every week, from the earliest yellow
-glow of May to the brilliant maples and the final autumnal glory of the
-chrysanthemum.
-
-[Illustration: JAPANESE BUILDING ON WOODED ISLAND.]
-
-Japonica! Japonica! How continually does the spirit of the flowery land
-hover here! It is, indeed, scarcely a surprise that the actual, familiar
-outlines of its quaint massive gables suddenly confronts us, looking
-down above a mass of the Mikado’s own chrysanthemum, and we suddenly
-find ourselves transported to Tokio or Yokohama, surrounded by a
-veritable epitome of Japan, embracing all the actual features, floral,
-ornamental, and utilitarian, with which, through the educational
-influence of painted fan and screen and household gods of vase and
-kakemono, we have become so pleasantly familiar.
-
-The long, low-roofed, wooden temple is surrounded from its foundation by
-a characteristic terraced garden, embracing many examples of those
-“precious goods done up in small parcels,” which have always been the
-particular fad of the Japanese horticulturist--tiny giants of trees, so
-to speak, arranged in miniature parks, which, for the moment, make the
-beholder seem to be upon a mighty cliff or in flight with the soaring
-falcon, else how could he thus gaze down upon the summit of such a huge,
-lofty pine as this which he now sees beneath him! A fine example of one
-of these arboreal paradoxes is to be seen in the Japanese exhibit in the
-Horticultural Building--an aged dwarf of an _arbor vitæ_ (_Thuja_) like
-a gigantic cedar of Lebanon, which, while having all the inherent
-characteristics of an actual age and dignity of over one hundred years,
-is still, with the big vase which it occupies, barely the height of
-one’s shoulders.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- AN AGED JAPANESE DWARF, ONE HUNDRED YEARS OLD--A CORNER OF THE
- HORTICULTURAL BUILDING.
-]
-
-In no structure within the grounds is the outward expression so
-sympathetically reflective of its architectural purpose as in the
-Fisheries Building. Itself reflected in the blue lagoon, in its
-architectural functions and sculptural ornament, it in turn reflects the
-lacustrine life of the waters, which not only almost lave its foundation
-walls but actually pour into its interior in fountain and cascade and
-gigantic aquaria. As we follow around these green translucent walls
-within, our passage lit only from the diffused light transmitted from
-above the water, we can almost fancy ourselves walking on the actual
-river-bed, ogled by familiar forms of sun-fish, perch, or pickerel; or
-perhaps wandering as in a dream among fair ocean caves abloom with
-brilliant sea-anemones, and embowered with mimic groves of branching
-corals and all manner of softly swaying sea-weed--graceful crimson
-laminaria reaching to the surface of the water, responding in serpentine
-grace to the soft invasion of waving fin. Rare living gems of fishes,
-very butterflies of the deep, float past flashing in iridescence with
-every subtile turn of their painted bodies. Star-fish, at first
-apparently stationary, as though in mid-water, glide across the illusive
-plane of glass, with their thousand fringy discs of feet. Strange crabs
-and mollusks and bivalves sport on the pebbly bottoms, and portentous
-monsters, with great gaping mouths, threaten us as they emerge from
-their nebulous obscurity and steal to within a few inches of our faces.
-
-[Illustration: PORTAL OF THE FISHERIES BUILDING.]
-
-All of its interior ichthyological features might have been anticipated
-even at the threshold of the building, with its rich and effective
-portals, where so many of these very forms are seen petrified in surface
-ornament. The building is in the form of a rectangular central structure
-with two octagonal annexes, each with its own beautiful portal, and
-connected to the main edifice by curved colonnades, with arch and
-balustrade--portal and pillar, capital, entablature and arch and
-panel--everywhere sculptured with ornaments whose themes are drawn from
-the subaqueous life to which the building is dedicated. The very balcony
-upon which we lean is supported by columns composed of four ingeniously
-and gracefully interlocked dolphins, while the pillars on right and left
-and throughout the entire exterior suggest curious geometric fossils
-from the deeps. Here a spiral procession of huge toads, whose uncouth
-shapes thus embodied in conventional ornament are singularly agreeable
-and effective. Each successive pillar is a study alike for the
-naturalist or designer--here a sinuous procession of river-horses
-(hippocampus), the incurved tail forming a volute repeated with pleasant
-effect in the spiral bands of ornament. Accommodating star-fishes
-embrace their respective pillars, touching points in geometric design.
-Here are eels and fishes meandering among bulrushes and arrowheads.
-Lizards, crabs, and turtles, each combine in effective ornament about
-their particular columns, which are surmounted by capitals of even
-greater ingenuity and effectiveness of design, perhaps because less
-geometric. Gaping frogs leaping among water-weeds; lobsters captive and
-sprawling in their wicker “pots;” fishes entangled in the meshes of
-nets, or engaged in mortal combat, their gaping mouths finely utilized
-in effective points of shadow--the modelling of each and all suggests
-the perfection of a cast from nature. To those who look for a happy
-blending of architectural purpose and harmonious ornament, this building
-will be a welcome innovation. To the naturalist or the idler in quest of
-the mere picturesque, the Fisheries Building with its wandering façade
-and colonnade, its roof of ruddy tiles and almost Moresque richness of
-surface ornament in high relief, will be found well worth careful study.
-
-How many are the obvious natural themes yet awaiting their sculptured
-memorial in the temple of architecture. Must the classical and testy
-acanthus
-
-[Illustration:
-
- ELKHORN FERN, A SUGGESTION FOR AN ARCHITECT--IN THE AUSTRALIAN
- EXHIBIT, HORTICULTURAL HALL.]
-
-forever guard that exalted basket unchallenged, and the antique, indeed
-almost palæontologic lotus forever keep us oblivious to the abounding
-wealth of natural suggestion of even surpassing opportunity? What a rare
-suggestion for a national architectural theme, for instance, has nature
-thus far wasted on the wilderness in that elk-horn fern of Australia,
-which forms one of the most conspicuous features of the arboreal
-exhibit of that land of tropic contradictions and zoölogical anomalies.
-Where can there be found another such ready-made and graceful model for
-a massive capital?
-
-Had this remarkable plant chanced to have been a native of ancient Egypt
-or Rome or Greece, it is difficult to conceive of its having escaped
-being immortalized in stone. Will the future national architecture of
-Australia ever embody its opportunities? Here is a veritable capital of
-clustered fern-forms, springing in graceful relief from a solid
-sculptured base. In some of the examples shown it simply surrounds the
-trunk upon which it is a parasite, and in others, the architectural
-suggestion is heightened by the cluster appearing at the summit of its
-pillar, the dead continuation of the trunk above having fallen.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Superlative anticipation of our hopes is often disastrous to their full
-realization. But no such danger awaits the visitor to the Columbian
-Fair. The most extreme glorification of this superb achievement at
-Chicago still leaves us the superlative of actual experience.
-
-Dull indeed must be the intelligence which fails to respond to the
-vision of beauty which the genius of architecture has here created.
-Whatever oblivion may await the other features of the Exposition, the
-fame of the architect is secure. Even though in their substance his
-creations here are but as the flowers of a day, to be cut down ere the
-coming of winter, their very evanescence constitutes their most abiding
-charm.
-
-Though we may spend weeks in the enjoyment of the unexampled treasures
-within these walls, confusion will at length claim most of our minor
-reminiscences, and the winnowing process of the years will at last leave
-few tokens. But the glamour of this celestial city, this throng of
-ethereal palaces hovering between sky and sky, buoyant as with uplifting
-archangel wings from dome and pinnacle and acroteria--these will abide
-to the end of our days.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration] THE PICTURESQUE SIDE
-
-_By F. Hopkinson Smith_
-
-
-I.
-
-A blazing sun and a clear limpid sky, a long lagoon, gray-green and
-silver, a noble flight of steps serving as water-landing for half a
-dozen gay-colored gondolas, a grand balustrade protecting a broad
-platform leading to the porch and entrance of the most exquisitely
-beautiful building of modern times--the Art Palace of the Great
-Exposition!
-
-From the corner of this balustrade a red rag of an awning, torn from an
-old tarpaulin, is stretched to an oar, its black shadow spilling down
-the white steps. Under this awning, flat on his back, sound asleep, lies
-a gondolier, fresh from Venice. Despite his nondescript costume of
-brigand’s leggings and cavalier’s cap I cannot mistake that broad chest
-and sunny face, the crisp black hair, and the fine lines of the throat
-and thigh.
-
-“Espero!” I call out in glad surprise.
-
-“_Commandi Signore_,” comes the quick reply, as he springs to his feet.
-
-Other gondoliers join us: Marco, who at home plys a boat at the
-_Traghetto_, just above the _Salute_; and Luigi, who for five years past
-has won at the Annual Regatta on the Grand Canal--a superb fellow is
-Luigi, as handsome as a Venetian, and every inch a gondolier; and
-Francesco, his brother, first gondolier to the Countess, whose palace
-fronts the _Accademia_. For the instant I am in Venice again, while they
-all talk to me at once, telling me of their friends and mine whom we
-have known there--subjects far more absorbing than all the surprises of
-this new world. Five minutes later we are swinging up the Lagoon, Marco
-bending his oar aft, Espero on the cushions beside me.
-
-There is to me a seeming fitness in entering the Court of Honor
-reclining in a gondola and rowed by a gondolier. No other craft that
-floats could so perfectly harmonize with these surroundings; none so
-dainty, so graceful, so dignified. There are no other oarsmen who could
-move with such ease and finish. These stately water-birds of Venice and
-their masters add, too, an element of the picturesque. They are to the
-lagoons what the flowers are to the esplanades, or the swans to the
-smaller inlets. The launches, noiseless as they are, seem out of place
-here and jar upon your senses; they are too new, too suggestive of
-progress and revenue and time-saving. But the gondola revives the
-traditions and customs of those earlier centuries, when this great White
-City of the Lake was still in its glory. Moreover, it is the only sort
-of princely craft which these noble families, whom you feel sure have
-lived for centuries in these great palaces, could use in their
-magnificent goings and comings.
-
-[Illustration: THE PERISTYLE.]
-
-For whenever I stand on the bridge of the Peristyle and look across the
-Court of Honor, surrendering myself to the magic spell of its beauty, I
-cannot help yielding to the conviction that this noble quadrangle is
-surrounded by palaces of marble
-
-[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF DOME OF THE HORTICULTURAL BUILDING.]
-
-which have taken centuries to perfect; that the grounds and walks,
-stretches of grass, masses of flowering plants, and bold colossal
-statues have all been added from time to time, as in other palace
-gardens of old, when opportunity or royal whim dictated; that this great
-city was built ages ago, long before the time of the Greeks, who
-modelled their own temples along their classic lines; and that not only
-were its builders the ablest and most learned men of all ages, but that
-their descendants, those who live beneath these roofs, are the wisest,
-the most cultured, and the most artistic men and women of their time.
-
-To me, moreover, the City is never evanescent nor unreal; never like a
-house built upon the sands. It is, when I look at it in amazed delight,
-not only entirely genuine, but firm and solid as the marble which it
-resembles. It is too vast, and the elements of atmosphere, perspective
-and proportion, enter too largely into its _ensemble_ to make it appear
-other than genuine. When, for instance, you stand in Athens, near the
-Parthenon, and your eye falls on a broken column at your feet, you _see_
-that it is marble, and you _know_ that it is heavy. But without this
-sample stone in the foreground, and your knowledge of the character and
-quality of the material, the whole temple is to you, from where you
-look, only a film of light, now ivory, now alabaster, now lost in
-purple shadows. Here, about the White City, there is no broken column as
-an eye test, there are only superb façades, reaching skyward, and great
-stretches of columns and arches, relieved by gilded domes and sculptured
-frieze. They are never close to you--no comprehensive view is possible
-nearer than two hundred feet, and who can tell “staff” from marble at
-that distance--but far away, across the shimmer of the Lagoon, or over
-the massing of foliage or clustered roofs.
-
-[Illustration: DOME OF HORTICULTURAL BUILDING AT NIGHT.]
-
-There is, in addition to all this element of reality, a reality which
-every one must feel for himself, still another charm--an undefinable
-quality that constantly surprises and delights you. To this is united a
-majestic picturesqueness investing these superb palaces and royal
-gardens with a distinction never attained by any of their predecessors.
-This does not seem to be due so much to colossal proportions nor to the
-never-ending series of buildings piled one behind the other, as to the
-skill shown by architects
-
-[Illustration: IN OLD VIENNA.]
-
-and landscape gardeners in the general plan. Especially is this charm
-felt in the absence of rectangular lines of construction; in the winding
-in and out of the lagoons; in the neglected fringing of untrimmed
-foliage skirting the water’s edge; in the half submerged bits of islands
-where the ducks plume their feathers; in the informal formality of great
-massing of plants; in the dotting of broad stretches of gray-green water
-with gay-colored gondolas; and in the colossal proportions of superb
-decorative statues, so that a glimpse of Venice can be caught between
-the forelegs of a huge sculptured bull, and the columns of a classic
-temple be outlined over the back of some water-sprayed mermaid.
-
-It is easy while under the spell of this Ancient City to persuade myself
-that in this their festival year, these nobles who dwell here are
-holding high carnival, with much feasting and merry-making, and
-illuminations at night. That they have bidden all the nations of the
-earth to join them in these gracious festivities lasting many months;
-and that as an especial honor, and for the delight and entertainment of
-these distinguished guests, they have decreed that a great fair shall be
-held where may be seen many strange people from the uttermost parts of
-the earth, who, with barbaric dancing and weird music may depict the
-manners and customs of their climes. That this Fair of the Festival Year
-shall be placed, not within the lines of the Palaces but outside the
-walls of the Great City, at the end of a broad highway, rolled out like
-a huge carpet of many colors.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Rousing myself from these reveries, I bid Espero good-by, join the
-throng, follow through the gates and so out upon this broad highway, the
-Plaisance. My dreams are all true. Along the crowded thoroughfare move
-half the wild tribes of the earth--Javanese, Esquimaux, natives of the
-Soudan, Bedouins from beyond the Great Desert, Algerians, Arabs, Greeks,
-Armenians, Syrians, and Turks. Fringing each edge of this gay promenade
-I find the huts of the Javanese and Soudanese, the tents of the Bedouins
-and Arabs, and the more pretentious booths and structures of the
-Algerians and kindred people. Here, too, are the quaint gateways and
-open squares of old German and Austrian towns; the low-roofed, deftly
-constructed houses of the Japanese; the intricate carvings of India
-covering the booths, and, draping the doors of the Eastern bazaars the
-rich stuffs, rugs, and tapestries of the Orient.
-
-Near the entrance to the Turkish village, tucked away on one side of the
-highway, just out of the rush of the never-ceasing throng, and yet close
-enough to be within call, rises the dome of a small Mosque. Above this
-a single, snow-white minaret shoots up into the blue.
-
-[Illustration: MOSQUE OF THE SULTAN SELIM.]
-
-When the sun is gone there leans from a tiny balcony high up on this
-needle of a minaret, a white-robed priest. Suddenly above the whirl and
-hurry there filters down through the soft twilight air the Muezzin’s
-call for prayer:
-
-“La Ilah Ell-Allah Muhammed Rassoul Ell-Allah.”
-
-To me there is nothing so simple, nothing so impressive, nothing so
-devout, as a Muhammedan standing in the presence of his God. There is a
-childlike faith, a manly trust, a sincere belief evinced and experienced
-by these believers, that never seems to predominate in any other form of
-religion.
-
-How often, in a great cathedral, do you come upon a figure silently
-leaving the confessional, and catching a full view of the face, detect a
-lingering trace of sorrow, or anxiety, or doubt. But watch the faces of
-these Muhammedans, these poor sedan-chair carriers, and of that
-broad-shouldered Arab, who has been moving great boxes of unpacked goods
-on his back all day. How tired they all look as they enter the Mosque,
-bowing low with reverent awe, and prostrating themselves wearily to the
-pavement. It is as if each penitent had brought his very burden within
-these sacred precincts, supplicating for relief.
-
-Now look, when the silent service is over, and study these same faces
-as, with a light-hearted spring, each man rises from his knees and with
-serene expression, and calm, restful eyes takes up once more the burden
-of his life.
-
-This exquisite and picturesque little Mosque--it is the prototype of the
-purest bit of Eastern architecture in Stamboul--these thoroughly genuine
-people, this sacred service--not as a necessary part of the Oriental
-exhibit, but as an essential, indispensable part of the life of the
-natives themselves--this combination of the genuine and the picturesque
-is to me the true keynote of the Great Exposition.
-
-
-II.
-
-My old and valued friend, Far-away Moses:--What a superb old Shylock he
-is; not in the sense of “three thousand ducats and for three months,”
-but in the unique quality of the character itself! Neither Irving nor
-Booth ever conceived so fine and fitting a costume as this old man wears
-every day in and out of his bazaar, and along the streets of his
-transplanted village; a costume of soft material, with an under-vest
-delicately embroidered, the over-jacket a coat of brown camel’s-hair
-with dark red voluminous waist-sash and the wide Eastern skirts covering
-his still sturdy legs.
-
-My old and valued friend, Far-away Moses, I say, invited me to dinner. I
-have enjoyed this especial privilege very often in his own bazaar in
-Stamboul, and the aroma of the Mocha and the soothing qualities of his
-Narghilehs have haunted me ever since. Now, thanks to his courtesy, I
-can enjoy them every day. There is nothing missing in the surroundings
-of his own bazaar here on the
-
-[Illustration: “FAR-AWAY MOSES.”]
-
-Plaisance. The walls are hung with the wealth of the East. Divans are
-scattered about. On a low table, octagon-shaped and inlaid with
-mother-of-pearl and ivory, lie yataghans and Turkish arms, embossed with
-silver and enriched with quaint design. The light struggles in through
-the small windows and half defines the odd interior, quite as it does
-in his shop along the Bosphorus. I throw myself upon a pile of Eastern
-rugs and begin adjusting the pillows in true Oriental fashion.
-
-The old man claps his hands, and instantly, as if rising through the rug
-itself, an attendant appears, receives an order in Turkish, and
-vanishes. Not a gentleman, if you please, in a soiled necktie, frayed
-shirt-front, and hired-by-the-month swallow-tail coat, but a swarthy
-Turk in gold-embroidered vest and the rest of it, who reappears in a
-flash with one of those exquisite squatty little tables that might serve
-in a baby house. Then more clapping of hands, and more Turks, one a
-gorgeous fellow in a solid gold jacket (the light is dim), under-vest of
-purple and silver, sash brilliant scarlet, and so on, down to his
-magnificent slippers of red morocco, very much turned up at the toes.
-And then an inlaid tray with two dainty little cups, mere thimbles, into
-which is poured from a long-handled brass pot, sizzling hot over a
-charcoal fire, two mouthfuls of fragrant Mocha. Then the Narghilehs,
-with their long flexible tubes, amber mouth-pieces, and the bits of
-burning coal, keeping alight the little heap of Turkish tobacco on the
-top of the slender caraffe-shaped glass.
-
-We talk of the old days in Stamboul and of the morning we spent at the
-Bath, where I was parboiled and rubbed full of holes by two
-insufficiently clad Greeks; and then of the festival night at Saint
-Sophia when, as a member of his household, I entered the Sacred Mosque
-barefooted and befezzed. Later on a lighted lantern is brought in, and
-we follow another gorgeous slave into the mysteries of my host’s private
-apartments where a repast of kebabs and boiled rice is served.
-
-[Illustration: DOORWAY OF THE TRANSPORTATION BUILDING.]
-
-After dinner other lights are fixed against the walls of an outer court,
-and a dozen or more of his retinue--Far-away and his _confrère_, Roberto
-Levy, count five hundred and fifty followers--with weird song and
-gesture, throw themselves with perfect abandon into one of their wild
-native dances.
-
-This small army of the Faithful eat, sleep, and dress precisely as they
-do at home. The Bedouin women huddle in the dust outside their tents,
-baking their wafer-like bread over rounded pans covering heaps of live
-coals; the men smoke and lounge on the mats; the dancing-girls from
-Damascus and Syria, in the intervals of their stage work, shut
-themselves up in their curtain-closed rooms, attended only by their
-women.
-
-They allow no difference in their surroundings or atmosphere; there is
-no hurry nor rush nor noise; only the indolent, lazy life of the East.
-Had the genie of the lamp been summoned from space to work these
-marvellous effects it could not have been better done.
-
-But the picturesque does not end with the Turkish village, its mosques,
-bazaars, café, theatre, and attendants. Enter the gates leading to the
-little toy houses of the Javanese, and stop for a moment at one of the
-doors. Half a dozen of the dancing-girls are cuddled together in the
-middle of the floor. There is no light except through the open door.
-Some are smoking cigarettes. One is painting the eyebrows of a comrade,
-who in turn is combing the other’s hair. Two are stretched out on either
-side of the entrance lolling lazily. They smile courteously, and when
-one rises and trips away to the next miniature house, she drops you a
-slight deferential courtesy as she passes--not to attract your
-attention, but as challenging permission--to cross in front of you.
-
-If you, an admirer of Western civilization, offer some one of its
-subjects a piece of silver, you receive either the customary gruff
-thanks or the incredulous stare. If you have doubts about the courtesy,
-the refinement, and the charm of the semi-barbarous East, try the same
-experiment on one of these little Javanese maidens, fully of age and yet
-hardly as tall as the curly haired daughter that you hold in your arms.
-When you tender her the coin she walks to where you stand without the
-slightest trace of either forwardness or timidity, drops on one
-knee--clasping the money in her right hand--crosses both arms over her
-bosom, places the piece on her head, and then bowing low, her face
-toward you, retraces her steps into the bungalow. With each gesture she
-intends some graceful service--she is your slave--her heart is always
-true, her head in subjection. It is only her way of saying thank
-you--this poor little half-clad, half-civilized, Javanese maid; but it
-is so gracefully, so charmingly done, it is so naïve and sincere, that
-if you leave the door of her hut with a cent in your pocket you should
-be sentenced to spend a month in her village to learn better manners.
-
-As you are still in search of the picturesque, follow that barefooted
-Arab with fez and long yellow gown, who has just saluted with such
-respect and humility Roberto Levy (chief commissioner of all these
-Muhammedan people), touching his heart and lips and forehead after the
-manner of his race. He has some complaint to make or grievance to right.
-You note that the man enters a gate farther down
-
-[Illustration: IN CAIRO STREET.]
-
-on the Plaisance, above which you catch the minaret of another mosque,
-overlooking “A Street in Cairo.” Later on you discover that this
-barefooted Arab drives a camel along this tortuous thoroughfare.
-
-Here again the quality of the picturesque is inseparably joined to the
-quality of the genuine. The street itself is a fair reproduction of the
-original, with its overhanging latticed windows, iron gratings and
-decorations; but the motley crowd that throngs through its crookedness
-is the native element itself. Camels with the dust of the desert ground
-into their scarred hides, every knot in the harness a guarantee of long
-service; donkeys and donkey boys; women closely veiled or wearing the
-_burgi_--a wooden spool bound over the nose, with a heavy fringe of
-black thread falling below the chin; rows of idlers in dirty garments
-sprawled along the edges of the houses hugging the shade; Nubians, black
-as ink, in white burnoose and long gowns; pedlers, street venders in odd
-Eastern costumes, and scattered throughout the curious throng the man
-from Maine and the gentleman from Texas.
-
-Everywhere you find the same element of the picturesque, everywhere is
-evident the same quality of the genuine. To accomplish these results
-space and time seem to have been annihilated.
-
-“It is I who went up into the Soudan country and brought out this
-family, come in and see,” says a dark, black-bearded man, who might have
-the blood of all the races of the East in his veins.
-
-I thrust my head and shoulder through a narrow slit in the hut, shaped
-like an inverted teacup, and am confronted by a girl wearing a single
-garment of coarse cotton cloth, such as would cover a sack of salt.
-Behind her, squatting on the earth-floor, sit her husband and father,
-beating rude drums covered with skins. The girl instantly advances,
-lifts up her face and gazing into mine with half-closed eyes, gives
-herself up with slow movement of her feet to that peculiar spell which
-seems to possess all Eastern women when under the influence of the
-dance. The inmates are all uncleanly, unkempt, and, but for the earnest
-face and fawn-like eyes of the Soudanese girl-wife, forbidding and
-repulsive. Of one thing, however, you are sure: had you wandered into
-the heart of their country and entered any one of their huts, you would
-have found the exact counterpart of what is before you now.
-
-So with the Algerians and Nubians, the Chinese and natives of Ceylon,
-Dahomey and the South Sea Islands, the Esquimaux even down to the
-glass-blowers from Murano: they are not a part of a show--they are the
-people themselves. How long this unconscious individuality will continue
-and what degrading effects our civilization will produce on these
-strangers is a question which cannot be settled until the Fair is over.
-
-It is safe to say that never in the lives of the present generation will
-these things be repeated. Before the summer comes again the beautiful
-city will fade away like the frost-work of an early morning. This broad
-highway, teeming with life and color, will be but a neglected waste,
-while the lovely lagoons will once more yield themselves up to the
-ever-encroaching lake. Every square foot of the wide inclosure should be
-sacred to every American, as marking for them and for the intelligent
-world a point in civilization never before reached by any people; as
-marking the dawn of a new era in the progress of the Republic; a new
-light in architecture, in mural decoration and sculpture; in the weaving
-of exquisite stuffs, in the glazing of porcelains, the making of glass
-and perfecting of all the lesser arts that serve to beautify our homes
-and gladden our lives; and in the proving, by comparison with the best
-work of the other nations of earth, the high standard reached by our own
-artists, and the fixing forever of that position in the art of the
-world.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Artists at the Fair, by
-Frank D. Millet, J. A. Mitchell, Will H. Low, W. Hamilton Gibson and F. Hopkinson Smith
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Artists at the Fair, by
-Frank D. Millet, J. A. Mitchell, Will H. Low, W. Hamilton Gibson and F. Hopkinson Smith
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Some Artists at the Fair
-
-Author: Frank D. Millet
- J. A. Mitchell
- Will H. Low
- W. Hamilton Gibson
- F. Hopkinson Smith
-
-Release Date: May 2, 2020 [EBook #61989]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME ARTISTS AT THE FAIR ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-<p class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="[Image of
-the book's cover unavailable.]" />
-</p>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""
-style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%;
-padding:1%;">
-<tr><td>
-
-<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></p>
-<p class="c"><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers]
-clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)</span></p>
-
-<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<h1><span class="rredd">Some Artists at the Fair</span></h1>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="2J. A. Mitchell" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td>Frank D. Millet&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td>J. A. Mitchell</td></tr>
-<tr><td>Will H. Low</td><td>W. Hamilton Gibson</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="c">F. Hopkinson Smith</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class="c"><img src="images/title-1.jpg"
-width="300"
-alt=""
-/></p>
-
-<p class="c">New York<br />
-Charles Scribner’s Sons<br />
-1893</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i">{i}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii">{ii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="c">SOME ARTISTS AT THE FAIR</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">{v}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"><a name="ill_1" id="ill_1"></a>
-<a href="images/frontispiece_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/frontispiece_sml.jpg" width="368" height="582" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE COURT OF HONOR&mdash;DOME OF ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h1>Some Artists at the Fair</h1>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="2J. A. Mitchell" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td>Frank D. Millet&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td>J. A. Mitchell</td></tr>
-<tr><td>Will H. Low</td><td>W. Hamilton Gibson</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="c">F. Hopkinson Smith</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class="c"><img src="images/title-2.jpg"
-width="300"
-alt=""
-/></p>
-
-<p class="c">New York<br />
-Charles Scribner’s Sons<br />
-1893</p>
-
-<p class="c"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span>&nbsp;<br /><br /><br />
-<small>
-<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1893, by</span><br />
-CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS<br />
-<br />
-<br />
-TROW DIRECTORY<br />
-PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY<br />
-NEW YORK<br /></small></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
-
-<tr class="ityl"><td valign="top"><a href="#THE_DECORATION_OF_THE_EXPOSITION">THE DECORATION OF THE EXPOSITION</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr class="ityl"><td valign="top"><a href="#TYPES_AND_PEOPLE_AT_THE_FAIR">TYPES AND PEOPLE AT THE FAIR</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_43">43</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr class="ityl"><td valign="top"><a href="#THE_ART_OF_THE_WHITE_CITY">THE ART OF THE WHITE CITY</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_59">59</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr class="ityl"><td valign="top"><a href="#FOREGROUND_AND_VISTA_AT_THE_FAIR">FOREGROUND AND VISTA AT THE FAIR</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_81">81</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr class="ityl"><td valign="top"><a href="#THE_PICTURESQUE_SIDE">THE PICTURESQUE SIDE</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_100">100</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_1">The Court of Honor&mdash;Dome of Administration Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#ill_1">Frontispiece</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_2">Riders of Winged Horses, from W. L. Dodge’s Decoration in the Administration Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_3">Figure Emblematic of the Textile Arts, by Robert Reid, in one of the Domes of the Manufactures Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_3">3</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_4">Allegorical Figure of “Needle-work,” by J. Alden Weir, in one of the Domes of the Manufactures Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_7">7</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_5">“Forging,” Figure by E. E. Simmons, in the Dome of the East Portal, Manufactures Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_11">11</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_6">“Musicians,” Fragment from the Procession, by W. L. Dodge, in the Dome of the Administration Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_14">14</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_7">“Ceramic Painting,” by Kenyon Cox, in a Dome of the East Portal, Manufactures Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_15">15</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_8">“Autumn,” Panel by G. W. Maynard, in the Agricultural Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_18">18</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_9">“Pearl,” by Walter Shirlaw, in a Dome of the North Portal, Manufactures Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_19">19</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x">{x}</a></span>
-<a href="#ill_10">“The Telephone,” by J. Carroll Beckwith, in a Dome of the North Portal, Manufactures Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_23">23</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_11">“Decoration,” Figure by C. S. Reinhart</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_29">29</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_12">“The Armorer’s Craft,” one of Four Figures by E. H. Blashfield, Representing the Arts of Metal Working</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_33">33</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_13">Female Figure from W. L. Dodge’s Decoration in the Administration Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_37">37</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_14">Banner Adopted from the Standard of Spain under Ferdinand and Isabella</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_39">39</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_15">Banner Adopted from the Expeditionary Flag of Columbus</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_39">39</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_16">Trying to Get the Better of the Native</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_45">45</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_17">Fakirs</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_47">47</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_18">A Bride and Groom</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_52">52</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_19">Wheeled About at Seventy-five Cents per Hour</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_54">54</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_20">The Question of Finance</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_56">56</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_21">Café in the Midway Plaisance</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_57">57</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_22">Lighting the Natural Gas Torches on the Roof of the Administration Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_61">61</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_23">At Night on the Midway Plaisance</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_64">64</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_24">Indian Girl and Bull, Modelled by French &amp; Potter</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_65">65</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_25">German Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_66">66</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_26">Central Portion of MacMonnies Fountain&mdash;Effect of Electric Light</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_27">The Border of the Lagoon</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_84">84</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_28">A Bit of the Californian Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_86">86</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_29">The Californian Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_87">87</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_30">A Cove in Wooded Island</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_88">88</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_31">The Edge of the Rose Garden, Wooded Island</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_91">91</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_32">Japanese Building on Wooded Island</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_92">92</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span>
-<a href="#ill_33">An Aged Japanese Dwarf, One Hundred Years Old&mdash;A Corner of the Horticultural Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_93">93</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_34">Portal of the Fisheries Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_95">95</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_35">Elkhorn Fern, a Suggestion for an Architect&mdash;In the Australian Exhibit, Horticultural Hall</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_97">97</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_36">The Peristyle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_102">102</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_37">Distant View of Dome of the Horticultural Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_103">103</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_38">Dome of Horticultural Building at Night</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_106">106</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_39">In Old Vienna</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_107">107</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_40">Mosque of the Sultan Selim</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_111">111</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_41">“Far-away Moses”</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_114">114</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_42">Doorway of the Transportation Building</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td valign="top" class="ityl"><a href="#ill_43">In Cairo Street</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_119">119</a></td></tr> </table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><a name="ill_2" id="ill_2"></a><a name="THE_DECORATION_OF_THE_EXPOSITION" id="THE_DECORATION_OF_THE_EXPOSITION"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_001_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_001_sml.jpg" width="375" height="281" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /><br /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>RIDERS OF WINGED HORSES, FROM W. L. DODGE’S DECORATION IN
-THE ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2>THE DECORATION OF THE EXPOSITION<br /><br />
-<small><i>By F. D. Millet</i></small></h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE grand style, the perfect proportions, and the magnificent dimensions
-of the buildings of the World’s Columbian Exposition, excite a twofold
-sentiment in the mind of the visitor&mdash;wonder and admiration at the
-beauties of the edifices, and regret and disappointment that they are
-not to remain as monuments to the good taste, knowledge, and skill of
-the men who built them, and as a per<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span>manent memorial of the event which
-the Exposition is intended to celebrate. This complex feeling is a
-natural one, and is perfectly comprehensible in the presence of the
-noble porticos and colonnades, the graceful towers, superb domes, and
-imposing façades. Previous exhibitions, with the possible exception of
-that in Vienna in 1873, have been confessedly ephemeral in the character
-of their construction, and have shown a distinctly playful and festal
-style of architecture, with little attempt at seriousness or dignity of
-design. The monumental character of the group of Exposition buildings in
-Chicago is not the result of accident, but of deliberate forethought and
-wise judgment.</p>
-
-<p>In the heat of the fever of construction, which has spread like a
-contagion from the rocks of Mount Desert to the white sands of the
-Pacific coast, a new race of architects has sprung up, fertile in
-resources and clever in execution, but with little well-grounded
-knowledge of the real principles of their art. Beginning with the
-bulbous conglomerations of material which have been forced upon a
-long-suffering public by the Government architects, and ending with
-consciously picturesque structures that hint more of the terrors of
-mediæval dungeons than of the comforts of domestic life, and bear the
-title of villa but the aspect of military strongholds, the architecture
-of the past two decades has, with some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"><a name="ill_3" id="ill_3"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_004_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_004_sml.jpg" width="365" height="522" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FIGURE EMBLEMATIC OF THE TEXTILE ARTS, BY ROBERT REID, IN
-ONE OF THE DOMES OF THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">notable exceptions, been distinguished by increasing ingenuity in
-imitation rather than the development of skill in adaptation. It would
-be worse than foolish to demand that an architect should be thoroughly
-original, as it would be to ask an artist to cut loose from all the
-proven principles and traditions of his profession, and invent an
-entirely new method and a novel system. What may be reasonably asked of
-an architect is that he have an individual point of view, and modernize
-the adaptation of old principles without disturbing the real spirit of
-the same; that he develop and extend these principles to meet the
-requirements of modern life; that, in fact, he work as nearly as
-possible in the same direction that the masters of ancient architecture
-would have done if they had been dealing with modern problems of design,
-plan, and construction. There are certain immutable laws of harmony and
-proportion which have always governed and will always rule in
-architecture as in art, and though they are disregarded and tampered
-with for the sake of novelty and so-called originality, this
-faithlessness always meets its just punishment in the result. The
-majority of modern architects have, in these days of abundant
-photographs, models, and measurements, been led to cater to the vanity
-of half-educated clients, and have engrafted French châteaux on
-Romanesque palaces, have invented wonderfully in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span>genious but viciously
-hybrid combinations, one of which has been aptly described as “Queen
-Anne in front and Mary Ann in the back.” The precept and example of the
-scholarly men in the profession have been powerless to stem this tide of
-ill-considered design, and nothing short of gradual regeneration and
-slow revulsion of sentiment against this tendency has been hoped for
-until the present year.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. D. H. Burnham, the Director of Works of the World’s Columbian
-Exposition, took the first important step toward the renaissance of the
-true spirit of architecture in this country by ignoring all precedents
-of competition, and selecting as associates certain architects and firms
-whose records established their position as true leaders of the
-profession. These architects, after studious contemplation of the
-situation, decided on the adoption of a general classical style for the
-buildings, subject, of course, to such modifications as were found
-necessary by the requirements of each individual case. The result is a
-satisfactory and sufficient proof of the wisdom of Mr. Burnham’s action,
-and there is now before the country a more extensive and instructive
-object-lesson in architecture than has ever been presented to any
-generation in any country since the most flourishing period of
-architectural effort. The educational importance of this feature of the
-great Exposition can scarcely be over-esti<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span>mated,</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;"><a name="ill_4" id="ill_4"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_007_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_007_sml.jpg" width="355" height="428" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>ALLEGORICAL FIGURE OF “NEEDLE-WORK,” BY J. ALDEN WEIR, IN
-ONE OF THE DOMES OF THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">and its salutary influence on the future architecture of this country
-can be prophesied with absolute certainty. The scheme has not been
-considered complete, however, nor the lesson properly emphasized,
-without the necessary adjuncts of the two arts so closely allied to
-architecture, sculpture and painting, both of which have been drawn upon
-with freedom and good judgment to supplement and enrich the
-architectural features. Sculpture has been employed far more extensively
-than its sister art, for the very good reason that few of the buildings
-have been constructed with any intention of carrying the interiors to
-any high degree of finish. It would have been impracticable, under the
-circumstances, to bring the interiors up to the same perfection as the
-exteriors, even with the cheapest material, for it would have added an
-enormous per cent to the cost of construction. The architects have,
-therefore, in most cases frankly accepted the situation and confined
-their efforts at embellishment to the façades, considering the buildings
-simply as great sketches of possible permanent structures, confessedly
-utilitarian as to the interior, but as sumptuous and suggestive in
-exterior treatment as the conditions permitted. Indeed, this was the
-only reasonable view to take, both because of the enormous size of the
-buildings and the complex uses for which they are intended. The exhibits
-themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span> are necessarily such prominent features of the interiors
-that they only need a background of more or less simple character to
-complete, with the elaborate installation which is being carried on,
-quite as agreeable a decoration scheme as might be reasonably expected
-on such an enormous scale.</p>
-
-<p>Without going into details of construction, it is proper to call
-attention to one feature of the interiors, notably of the Machinery and
-Manufactures and Liberal Arts buildings, where the architect and the
-engineer have joined forces and produced a result far ahead of anything
-before accomplished. I refer to the wonderfully beautiful iron-work of
-these buildings, which satisfies to an eminent degree both the
-utilitarian and æsthetic requirements. Mr. C. B. Atwood, Designer in
-Chief, co-operated with Mr. E. C. Shankland, Chief Engineer, in working
-out a plan of construction of the immense trusses with the connecting
-girders, purlins, and braces, which has been carried out in great
-perfection. The ugly forms of ordinary bridge-builders’ construction,
-which have hitherto been endured as necessary for rigidity and strength,
-have been largely eliminated, and graceful curves, well-balanced
-proportions, and harmonious lines unite to make the iron-work, beautiful
-in itself, a distinctly ornamental feature of the interiors. Thus,
-without flourish of trumpets, a great advance has been made, and the
-great truth promulgated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 277px;"><a name="ill_5" id="ill_5"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_011_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_011_sml.jpg" width="277" height="470" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“FORGING,” FIGURE BY E. E. SIMMONS, IN THE DOME OF THE
-EAST PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">that the useful may be beautiful even in engineering. Painting of an
-artistic character has been confined for the most part to a few domes
-and panels in various pavilions, to wall spaces under colonnades and
-porticos, and to the two or three interiors in which there is
-sufficiently high finish to permit of mural decoration.</p>
-
-<p>The Administration Building, by Mr. Richard M. Hunt, which was built for
-the uses of the World’s Columbian Commission with the numerous branches
-of its executive force, is the real focus of the group of buildings, not
-only from its position in the centre of a grand plaza of enormous
-extent, but on account of its monumental character. The portals and the
-angles of this building are adorned with groups of sculpture by Mr. Carl
-Bitter, of New York, and spandrels and panels, both outside and inside,
-are enriched by designs by the same sculptor. The dome, which is two
-hundred and sixty-five feet high, is truncated at the top and is lighted
-by a great eye forty feet in diameter. The interior of this dome around
-the great eye, a surface of the approximate dimensions of 35 x 300 feet,
-is to be covered with a figure composition painted by Mr. W. L. Dodge,
-representing in general terms the figure of a god on a high Olympian
-throne crowning with wreaths of laurel the representatives of the arts
-and sciences, and flanked by figures of Agriculture, Commerce,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 241px;"><a name="ill_6" id="ill_6"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_014_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_014_sml.jpg" width="241" height="339" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption">
-<p>“MUSICIANS,” FRAGMENT FROM THE PROCESSION, BY W. L.
-DODGE, IN THE DOME OF THE ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">and Peace. A Greek canopy, supported by flying female figures, contrasts
-agreeably with the clear blue of the sky background, against which the
-principal groups are shown in strong relief. Three winged horses drawing
-a vehicle with a model of the Parthenon, troops of warriors cheering the
-victors in the peaceful strife of the arts, and a wealth of minor
-figures, make up the composition, which is bold and imposing not only in
-magnitude but in line. The interior walls of the great Rotunda are
-tinted so as to give the effects of colored marbles and mosaics and
-under the outside the massive white Doric columns have a background of
-Pompeian richness<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;"><a name="ill_7" id="ill_7"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_015_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_015_sml.jpg" width="346" height="514" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“CERAMIC PAINTING,” BY KENYON COX, IN A DOME OF THE EAST
-PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.</p>
-
-<p>(From an unfinished sketch.)</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">of tone. With the exception of Mr. Dodge’s composition in the
-Administration Building, neither of the other buildings fronting on the
-grand plaza has any purely artistic decoration, although the hemicycle
-and portions of the Electricity Building, and the extensive arcades of
-the Machinery Building, are all treated with flat colors to supplement
-this architectural ornament, the former by Mr. Maitland Armstrong, the
-latter by Mr. E. E. Garnsey, of F. J. Sarmiento &amp; Co. Across the south
-canal, however, a blaze of richly colored panels in the pavilions of the
-Agricultural Building, with here and there a figure of an animal half
-hidden by the superb Corinthian columns, shows where Mr. G. W. Maynard
-and his assistant, Mr. H. T. Schladermundt, have converted, by the magic
-of their art, the uninteresting plaster surfaces into a series of
-elaborate pictures. This decoration has been planned with great
-attention to the appropriate character of its individual features. There
-are two pavilions at either end of the building, with a large doorway
-breaking the wall into two panels, each one of which has a dado of
-elaborate ornament, a narrow border of conventionalized Indian corn on
-each side, and great garlands of fruit on top framing an oblong
-rectangle of rich Pompeian red with a colossal female figure of one of
-the seasons. Above the two panels, and connecting them by a band of
-color, is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 212px;"><a name="ill_8" id="ill_8"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_018_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_018_sml.jpg" width="212" height="407" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“AUTUMN,” PANEL BY G. W. MAYNARD, IN THE AGRICULTURAL
-BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">a frieze with rearing horses, bulls, oxen drawing a cart of ancient
-form, and other small groups of agricultural subjects. The focus of the
-decorative scheme is naturally at the main portico, the entrance to the
-Rotunda, called the Temple of Ceres, with the statue of the goddess in
-the mysterious twilight of the graceful and impressive interior. The
-portico is treated on much the same plan as the side pavilions, but as
-it provides a much greater area of wall surface, Mr. Maynard has been
-able to introduce a richer combination of colors and a greater variety
-of figures. “Abundance” and “Fertility,” two colossal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 323px;"><a name="ill_9" id="ill_9"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_019_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_019_sml.jpg" width="323" height="459" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“PEARL,” BY WALTER SHIRLAW, IN A DOME OF THE NORTH
-PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">female figures, occupy, with the richly ornamented borders, great flat
-niches on either side of the entrance, and are flanked in turn on the
-side-walls by the figure of King Triptolemus, the fabled inventor of the
-plough, and the goddess Cybele, symbolical of the fertility of the
-earth, the one in a chariot drawn by dragons, the other leading a pair
-of lions. These figures, as well as those in the four porticos, are
-treated in a broad, simple manner, so that they carry perfectly to a
-great distance and at the same time lose nothing by close inspection.</p>
-
-<p>The sumptuousness of the color decoration is balanced by the lavish
-abundance of sculpture work which fills the pediments and crowns the
-piers and pylons, and, in general terms, the main features of the
-façades. The main pediment is by Mr. Larkin G. Mead; and the other
-statues&mdash;figures of abundance with cornucopiæ, a series of graceful
-maidens holding signs of the Zodiac, groups of four females representing
-the quarters of the globe supporting a horoscope, and various colossal
-agricultural animals&mdash;are all by the hand of Mr. Philip Martiny, who
-joins Mr. Olin L. Warner in supplementing the architectural
-ornamentation of the Art Building with various figures and bas-reliefs.
-Dominating the grand outlines of the edifice, perched high on the flat
-dome, is the gilded figure of Diana, by Mr. Augustus St. Gaudens,
-familiar as the finial of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span> tower of the Madison Square Garden in New
-York, a fitting apex of the monumental structure.</p>
-
-<p>The north front of the Agricultural Building, with the Peristyle and the
-south façade of the Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building, form a grand
-court of honor, so to speak, facing the Administration Building, which
-may be appropriately termed the Gateway of the Exhibition, for it rises
-directly in front of the Terminal Station, a building of vast
-proportions and noble aspect, designed to accommodate the thousands of
-visitors who reach the Fair by the numerous lines of railways
-concentrated at this point. Six rostral columns, surmounted by a figure
-of Neptune, by Mr. Johannes Gelert, accent this court at different
-points. Mr. Frederick MacMonnies’s <i>fin-de-siècle</i> colossal fountain
-fills the west end of the basin with a busy group of symbolical figures
-and a flood of rushing water. Opposite, at the east end of the
-glittering sheet of water which reflects the architectural glories of
-the colonnades, the dignified, simple statue of the Republic, by Mr. D.
-C. French, towers high in air, relieved against the beautiful screen of
-the Peristyle, with its forest of columns showing clear cut against the
-blue waters of the lake. Every column and every pier of the Peristyle
-has its crowning figure, the work of Mr. Theodore Baur, and the great
-central arch, or Water-Gate supports a colossal Quadriga executed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;"><a name="ill_10" id="ill_10"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_023_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_023_sml.jpg" width="328" height="479" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“THE TELEPHONE,” BY J. CARROLL BECKWITH, IN A DOME OF THE
-NORTH PORTAL, MANUFACTURES BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">by Mr. D. C. French and Mr. Edward C. Potter, the former undertaking the
-figure work, and the latter the horses. Two pair of horses, led by
-classical female figures, draw a high chariot with a male figure
-symbolizing the spirit of discovery of the fifteenth century, and pages
-on horseback flank the chariot on either side, enriching the composition
-so that it presents a well-sustained mass from every possible point of
-view. This group is an achievement well worthy of its situation as the
-dominating embellishment of the great court with its wealth of sculpture
-and ornament.</p>
-
-<p>The terraces afford another inviting field for open-air decoration.
-Numerous pedestals have tempted the skill of the sculptors of the
-Quadriga to produce distinguished types of the horse and the bull, and
-formal antique vases on the balustrade and reproductions of the
-masterpieces of ancient statuary break the long lines of parapet and
-greensward. The graceful bridges spanning the canals are guarded by
-sculptured wild animals native of the United States, part of them by Mr.
-Edward Kemeys, others by Mr. A. P. Proctor, in appropriate contrast to
-the classicality of their surroundings and suggesting future
-possibilities in sculpture inspired by similar motives. The eye cannot
-take in at a glance the sumptuous beauties of this grand court, even in
-its ragged state of partial finish, but roves from statue to column,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span>
-portal to terrace, resting agreeably on broad masses of rich color and
-on the gleaming reflections in the basin. Imagination can scarcely
-picture the scene with the addition of the festal features of fluttering
-banners, rich awnings, gayly decorated craft giving life and movement to
-the water front, and everywhere the crowd of visitors all on recreation
-bent.</p>
-
-<p>The casual observer might well be pardoned for failing at first to mark
-how the grand pavilions and porticos of the Manufactures and Liberal
-Arts Building are accented by frequent spaces covered with artistic
-decoration. In each of the four corner pavilions there are two tympana,
-those on the south side having been given to Mr. Gari Melchers and Mr.
-Walter MacEwen to fill with a decorative design. Both these artists have
-made elaborate compositions representing, in general terms, “Music” and
-“Manufactures” and “The Arts of Peace,” and “The Chase and the
-Manufacture of Weapons,” respectively.</p>
-
-<p>In the foreground of “Music,” at the left, a group of Satyrs pipes to a
-dancing cluster around the Muse Euterpe, and with various other
-personages make up a composition of great distinction of live and
-skilful arrangement. The second panel, which illustrates manufactures or
-textiles, is equally rich in groups, and in the background of both
-compositions is continued a procession in the honor of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span> Pallas Athena,
-who was credited by the Greeks with the invention of spinning. The
-general color gamut is light with an intricate harmony of delicate
-tones. The procession is silhouetted in bluish tones against a warm sky
-with the colors of early evening, the golden reflections touching the
-figures with beautiful lines of light. Mr. Melchers has followed out
-much the same general plan of color in a varied but well-sustained
-composition, so that the four tympana make, in a sense, a series of
-harmonious pictures.</p>
-
-<p>The four grand central portals of the Manufactures and Liberal Arts
-Building recall triumphant arches of Roman times. Each of these portals
-has a lofty central entrance with rich bas-reliefs by Mr. Bitter and
-smaller side arches under pendentive domes. These eight domes have been
-filled with figure decorations, each by a different artist. Those on the
-south front of the building have been painted by Mr. J. Alden Weir and
-Mr. Robert Reid, who, with distinctly individual compositions, have
-harmonized their designs in a remarkably agreeable and skilful manner.
-Mr. Weir has chosen allegorical female figures of “Decorative Art,” “The
-Art of Painting,” “Goldsmith’s Art,” and the “Art of Pottery.” Each of
-these figures is seated on a balustrade and is relieved against a sky of
-pale broken blue tones. Flying draperies and capitals of four orders of
-architecture serve to connect the lines of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span> the composition, which is
-further enriched by a cupid holding a tablet inscribed with the
-different arts and decorated with a wreath. The figures are large and
-simple in line, and the general scheme of color is pale blue varied with
-purple and green, a combination suggested by the evanescent hues of Lake
-Michigan. Mr. Reid has also selected seated allegorical figures to carry
-out his ideas, with the addition of four youths, one on the keystone of
-each arch, holding high above their heads wreaths and palm branches
-which meet and cross so as to form a band of decorative forms around the
-upper part of the dome. A semi-nude figure of a man with an anvil and
-wrought-iron shield represents “Ironworking;” a young girl in white
-resting one arm on a pedestal and the hand of the other arm touching a
-piece of carved stone, signifies “Ornament;” another in purple,
-finishing a drawing of a scroll, suggests the principle of “Design,” as
-applied to mechanical arts, and the fourth figure is readily interpreted
-as honoring the “Textile Arts.” In the east portal Mr. E. E. Simmons has
-placed a single figure of a man in each pendentive of the dome,
-symbolizing “Wood Carving,” “Stone Cutting,” “Forging,” and “Mechanical
-Appliances.” The general scheme is pale gray and flesh-colored tones
-relieved and accentuated by the forms of the tools and accessories
-appropriate to each figure. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"><a name="ill_11" id="ill_11"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_029_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_029_sml.jpg" width="368" height="536" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“DECORATION,” FIGURE BY C. S. REINHART.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">composition is bold in line, firm in outline, and original in
-conception. Mr. Kenyon Cox in the adjacent dome has worked so far in
-harmony with Mr. Simmons that he has decorated the pendentives rather
-than the upper part of the vault, placing a standing female figure in
-each against a balustrade and foliage. Above the heads, graceful
-banderoles, bearing the subjects illustrated, convert each pendentive
-into a shield-shaped space. A robust woman in buff jacket testing a
-sword, suggests “Steel Working.” A graceful girl in blue and white
-drapery holding a rare vase needs no title to show that she represents
-“Ceramic Painting.” “Building” is symbolized by a tall and shapely
-damsel in golden green robes, standing near an uncompleted wall, and
-“Spinning” by a stately maiden of fair complexion dressed in
-rose-colored stuffs, with the significant accessory of a spider-web. In
-the north portal Mr. J. Carroll Beckwith has illustrated the subject of
-Electricity as applied to Commerce. Four female figures occupy the
-pendentives. The “Telephone” and the “Indicator” are personified by a
-woman standing holding a telephone to her ear and surrounded by tape
-issuing from the ticker; “The Arc Light” by a figure kneeling holding
-aloft an arc light; “The Morse Telegraph” by a woman in flying draperies
-seated at a table upon which is the operating machine,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span> while she reads
-from a book; and “The Dynamo” by a woman of a type of the working-class
-seated upon the magnet with a revolving wheel and belt at her feet.
-Above, in the upper dome, is placed the “Spirit of Electricity,” a
-figure of a boy at the top of the dome from which radiate rays of
-lightning, to which he points. Mr. Walter Shirlaw, who has decorated the
-neighboring dome, shows distinct originality of conception in his four
-allegorical figures, “Gold,” “Silver,” “Pearl,” and “Coral,” symbolizing
-the abundance of the land and the sea. The maiden representing “Gold”
-steps forward freely, her mantle of yellow falling as she advances. A
-silver-gray cloak, fastened with silver disks, distinguishes the figure
-of “Silver.” “Pearl” stands erect with glistening pearls around her neck
-and on her garments. “Coral,” with raised arms, places a coral ornament
-in her hair. A spider’s web in decorative pattern connects the figures
-and occupies the central surface of the dome. White, green, and gold,
-treated in monotones, form the color plan.</p>
-
-<p>The figure on page 29 is taken from a sketch of one of Mr. C. S.
-Reinhart’s figures in the south dome of the West Portal, and was
-materially changed in the enlargement, and improved in action and
-accessories. The effort of the artist has been to bring all the separate
-tones into harmony with each other, making the design and color
-appropriate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"><a name="ill_12" id="ill_12"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_033_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_033_sml.jpg" width="365" height="525" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“THE ARMORER’S CRAFT,” ONE OF FOUR FIGURES BY E. H.
-BLASHFIELD, REPRESENTING THE ARTS OF METAL WORKING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">to the purposes of the building, the architecture, and the construction
-of the pendentive dome itself. A white-marble terrace describes a
-complete circle just above the four arches of the dome, the railing of
-which is a repetition of the actual one which finishes the top of the
-walls of the building itself; above a vibrating blue sky, with touches
-of salmon pink; in the pendentives four seated female figures,
-representing the Arts of Sculpture, Decoration, Embroidery, and Design.
-Between the figures and above the arches are urns with cactus, from
-which vines and flowers are trailing, thus uniting the composition. The
-treatment is mural&mdash;broad, flat tones within the severe contours. Above,
-in the sky, faint in color and harmonizing with the sky itself, four
-cherubs are having a merry-go-round with pale ribbons.</p>
-
-<p>The pendentives of the adjacent dome, painted by Mr. E. H. Blashfield,
-are filled by four winged genii, representing the “Arts of Metal
-Working.” The “Armorer’s Craft” is personified by a helmeted figure; the
-“Brass Founder” and “Iron Worker” by two half-nude youths, one holding
-an embossed trencher, the other a hammer, while a maiden, in the closely
-clinging gown of the fifteenth century, with a statuette in her hand,
-symbolizes the “Art of the Goldsmith.” The extreme points of the
-pendentives are filled by appropriate attributes, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span> pair of gauntlets,
-brass workers’ tools, a horse-shoe, and a medal. Behind the figures, and
-a little above their heads, is a frieze of Renaissance scroll work, and
-the whole composition is bound together by flying banderoles and by the
-sweep of the widely extended wings. The centre of the dome is occupied
-by two winged infants supporting a shield. The general color scheme
-comprises a series of peacock blues, greens, and purples, brilliant
-white tones in wings and frieze, and pale blue of the sky as a
-background to the composition.</p>
-
-<p>The sculpture groups on the roof of the Woman’s Building, and the
-elaborate pediments executed by Miss Alice Rideout, with the Caryatides,
-by Miss Enid Yandell, were early finished and in place. The same is true
-of Lorado Taft’s graceful groups and friezes which adorn the
-Horticultural Building, and of Mr. John J. Boyle’s realistic and
-expressive embodiments of ideas suggested by the fertile theme of
-Transportation, and ranged in almost bewildering profusion around the
-building which bears that name. The regiment of statues on the Machinery
-Building, by Mr. M. A. Waagen and Mr. Robert Kraus, those on the
-Electricity Building, by Mr. J. A. Blankingship and Mr. Henry A.
-MacNeil, the statue of Franklin, by Mr. Carl Rohl-Smith, together with
-scores of other works of more or less importance, would, if listed, make
-a long catalogue of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="ill_13" id="ill_13"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_037_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_037_sml.jpg" width="250" height="353" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FEMALE FIGURE FROM W. L. DODGE’S DECORATION IN THE
-ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">interesting objects of the sculptor’s art. The immense numbers of these
-works, proportionate, of course, to the colossal magnitude of the
-Exposition, forbid even the bare mention of them in detail. In addition
-to this great mass of sculpture work executed for the special purpose of
-supplementing the archi<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span>tecture, it is intended to place at different
-places, notably in the Grand Court and on the grounds, and in the
-colonnades of the Art Building, selected examples of ancient sculpture,
-various reproductions of antique monuments.</p>
-
-<p>An essential part of the decoration of the building is, of course, the
-architectural details, the models of which have been executed by various
-parties, notably Ellin &amp; Kitson, of New York, and Evans, of Boston, with
-distinguished taste and skill. The capitals, mouldings, and ornaments of
-Greek and Roman buildings have been accurately copied on a scale and in
-a manner never before attempted. A few short months ago there was in
-this country but a very limited number of full-sized reproductions of
-any of the notable details of ancient architecture. The cast of the
-great Jupiter Stator capital was, it is said, found in but a single
-architect’s office. Now the whole range of details, from the beautiful
-Ionic capitals of the Temple of Minerva Polias to the mouldings of the
-Arch of Titus, are practically at the command of any architect and
-student.</p>
-
-<p>Much has been said and much written about the proper color to be given
-to the exteriors of the great edifices. Experience shows, even if reason
-had not already dictated the decision, that the nearer they are kept to
-white the better for the architecture. Every experiment which has been
-made to produce<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
-<a name="ill_14" id="ill_14"></a>
-<a name="ill_15" id="ill_15"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_039_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_039_sml.jpg" width="336" height="582" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption">
-
-<table><tr valign="top"><td><p>
-BANNER ADOPTED FROM THE STANDARD OF SPAIN UNDER FERDINAND AND
-ISABELLA.</p>
-</td><td>
-<p>BANNER ADOPTED FROM THE EXPEDITIONARY FLAG OF COLUMBUS.</p>
-</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">æsthetic effects of texture suggested by the usual treatment of plaster
-objects has resulted in partial or in total failure, and every time the
-warm white of the staff has been meddled with, its glory has departed.
-But the conditions imposed by the climate, by the impossibility of
-securing a homogeneous surface, and by the exposure and consequent
-discoloration of a certain portion of the work, have made it necessary
-to apply some sort of paint to all the buildings. Ordinary white-lead
-and oil have been found to give the best results, for the irregular
-absorption of the staff and the weathering rapidly produce an agreeable,
-not too montonous an effect, and the surface deteriorates less rapidly
-after this treatment. The single notable exception to this simple scale
-of color is found on the Transportation Building, which was given to
-Healy and Millet, of Chicago, to cover with a polychromatic decoration,
-carrying out the original intention of the architects, and making it
-unique and splendid in appearance. All the statuary of this building was
-treated with bronze and other metals, the great portal, commonly called
-the “Golden Door,” was exceedingly rich and gorgeous in effect, and the
-intricate ornamentation of the architectural relief decoration had an
-echo in the flat surfaces covered with rich designs.</p>
-
-<p>The decoration of the Exposition would be incomplete without careful
-attention to the informal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span> and festive features, such as flags and
-awnings. Every building presented new conditions, and demanded special
-study and design. A large proportion of the flag-staffs carried
-gonfalons or banners, but a certain number were reserved, naturally, for
-the United States flag and the flags of all nations. At various points
-large poles were planted in the ground, most of them for the purpose of
-displaying the Stars and Stripes, and a group of three poles, with
-ornate bases, elaborate flutings, and proper finials were placed in
-front of the Administration Building. The middle pole to carry a United
-States flag of large dimensions, and flanked on either side by a large
-and sumptuous banner, one adapted from the expeditionary banner of
-Columbus, the other from the standard of Spain at the time of the
-discovery of America.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="TYPES_AND_PEOPLE_AT_THE_FAIR" id="TYPES_AND_PEOPLE_AT_THE_FAIR"></a>
-
-<a href="images/ill_pg_043_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_043_sml.jpg" width="362" height="170" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<br />
-
-TYPES AND PEOPLE AT THE FAIR<br /><br />
-
-<small><i>By J. A. Mitchell</i></small></h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>T is no reflection on the Columbian show to confess that perhaps the
-pleasantest moments are those spent in resting one’s rebellious limbs
-upon a bench and in watching the crowd. It may be less novel and
-possibly less instructive than some other exhibits, but it is often more
-amusing. One realizes in studying this infinite stream of humanity how
-little he really knows, personally, of his own countrymen. New types
-seem to have sprung into existence for the sole purpose of appearing at
-this fair. It gives one a startling realization of the varying effects
-of climate, food, and mode of life upon our brothers and sisters. Voice,
-manner, color, size,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span> shape, and mental fittings are so widely different
-as to surest varieties in race. But we are all Americans, and those from
-the interior are more American than the others.</p>
-
-<p>If the native Indian were of a reflective turn of mind, all this might
-awaken unpleasant thoughts. Judging from outside appearance, however, he
-has no thoughts whatever. He stalks solemnly about the grounds with a
-face as impassive as his wooden counterparts on Sixth Avenue. And yet
-<i>he</i> is the American. He is the only one among us who had ancestors to
-be discovered. He is the aboriginal; the first occupant and owner; the
-only one here with an hereditary right to the country we are
-celebrating. Perhaps the native realizes this in his own stolid fashion.
-As he stalks about among the dazzling structures of the Fair, and tries,
-or more likely, does not try, to grasp the innumerable wonders of art
-and science that only annoy and confuse him, it may require a too
-exhausting mental effort to recall the fact that his own grandfather
-very likely pursued the bounding buffalo over the waste of prairie now
-covered by the city of Chicago. He, at least, if his education permitted
-it, could claim historic connection with the country when Columbus came
-so near discovering it; whereas our own connection with the discoverer
-is certainly remote, and sometimes suggests (with the fact that he from
-whom we have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span> named the Fair never actually saw this particular country)
-that we are taking liberties with his name.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 295px;"><a name="ill_16" id="ill_16"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_045_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_045_sml.jpg" width="295" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>TRYING TO GET THE BETTER OF THE NATIVE.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The unconquerable American desire to do things on a bigger scale than
-anybody else, which often results in our “biting off more than we can
-chew,” has again run away with us. There are many illustrations of this
-gnawing hunger at the World’s Fair. In fact the Fair itself, as a whole,
-comes painfully near being an illustration in point. A colossal
-enterprise too vast and complex to permit of its attain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span>ing a perfect
-finish in the time allowed, seems to give more joy to our occidental
-spirits than any possible perfection on a smaller scale. Crudity has
-little terror for us. The whole scheme is so vast and comprehensive, and
-the scale so hopelessly magnificent, that the visitor finds he has
-neither the spirit, spine, nor legs to even partially take it in. In
-fact the farther he goes the more he realizes the futility of the
-undertaking. And the hapless enthusiast who proposes to see, even
-superficially, the more important exhibits, should be fitted with a
-wrought-iron spine, nerves of catgut, and one more summer. In all the
-departments, from the fine arts to canned tomatoes, there is more than
-enough in numbers and in area to wear out the energy and paralyze the
-brain. To visit the Fair with profit or comfort you must leave your
-sense of duty behind. Whoever goes there with intent to thoroughly “do
-it,” is laying up for himself anguish of mind and the complete
-annihilation of his muscular and nervous force. It is far too big for
-any question of conscience to be allowed to enter in. Its bigness is
-beyond description. No words or pictures can tell the story of its size.
-Experience alone can teach it. You must go there day after day, to
-return at night with tired eyes and aching limbs, and with the bitter
-and ever-increasing knowledge that as an exhibition you can never grasp
-it. Where other exhibitions<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span> have been satisfied with a display of an
-hundred cubic feet of any special article, Chicago must have at least an
-acre. Of whatever the world has seen before this time it now sees larger
-specimens and more of them. This means for the visitor more steps, more
-fatigue, more confusion, more time, and more money.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 302px;"><a name="ill_17" id="ill_17"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_047_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_047_sml.jpg" width="302" height="180" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FAKIRS.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>But there is a good side to all this, if one can forget his physical
-fatigue. Few of us fully realize what the Fair is doing for this country
-æsthetically. Not so much by its art collections, for the average
-American sees, or can see, enough good paintings in the course of a year
-to bring up his standard to a respectable level if he so elects, but by
-the architecture of the buildings themselves. Unless the aforementioned
-“Average American” is an undeserving<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span> barbarian who has made up his mind
-to prefer the wrong thing, these impressive monuments cannot fail to do
-him good. The honest beauty of their design ought to stamp itself with
-sufficient force upon his dawning reason to make him see the crudity of
-the United States architecture in which he has wallowed up to date. No
-praise is too high for what Chicago has achieved in this direction.
-There are, of course, at the Fair some painful examples of what the
-untamed American architect loves to do, but he is fortunately in the
-minority. And the very contrast he offers works for progress in the
-cause of good art and a higher standard. The United States Building,
-designed by a Government architect, is a melancholy warning.</p>
-
-<p>The more intimate one becomes with this particular fair, the more
-forcibly he realizes the fact that we are, above all else, a practical
-people. After being duly impressed by the gigantic proportions and
-artistic excellence of the buildings, for which no praise is too high,
-we come gradually to learn, as we meander among the exhibits, that those
-things which excite our surprise and curiosity are generally the results
-of ingenuity and manual skill. In those departments, for instance,
-relating to art, literature, and history, there is little to startle the
-traveller who is at all familiar with previous international shows. The
-best in the art galleries is, as usual,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span> from Europe. There is no
-dodging the fact that the average American is not overladen with the
-artistic sense. His enthusiasm runs in other directions. When it comes
-to the outward manifestations of human ingenuity, he is “on deck;” he is
-“in it” and “with you.” The application of electricity to filling teeth,
-or converting sawdust into table-butter, kindles in his bosom an
-excitement he never experienced in the art department. It certainly
-seems, after a visit to the electricity and machinery, that human hands
-can do nothing that is not more quickly accomplished by some machine.
-Not only this, but time and distance count for nothing, and, if we keep
-on as we have started, the day will soon be here when the man in Maine
-can shake hands with his friend in Arizona. Already the sun is a
-hard-working slave. Light, air, water, and in fact all nature, seems
-cruelly overworked. If she ever strikes, it will be an awkward period
-for us. These mechanical and scientific surprises make it interesting to
-speculate as to possible sights at our next grand exhibition, say twenty
-years hence. The man in China, for instance, need not go to the future
-fair at all. He will probably be able to see and hear it all at home. If
-he does go he can return to Shanghai for his lunch.</p>
-
-<p>But the American as seen at this fair, although <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span>first of all practical,
-is not, from another point of view, so far behind in his artistic sense
-as we are in the habit of considering him. In the first place, he is
-found, as a rule, standing before the best paintings and passing by the
-poorer ones. Those galleries containing the finest works are invariably
-the most crowded. And this is the greatest compliment we can pay
-ourselves. If, on the other hand, enthusiastic groups collected about
-the impressionists, and took pleasure in the purple and yellow
-“effects,” that are sprinkled about the French and American sections,
-there would be cause for anxiety. But such is not the case. That the
-impressionists still count their warmest admirers among themselves,
-their wives, sisters, and aunts, is a hopeful sign. As a people, we take
-many things less seriously than some of our contemporaries, but in
-matters of art we like it with a purpose. Too little clothing still
-strikes us as frivolous and improper. Blood, violence, and all
-unpleasantness are sometimes historically instructive, but, as a rule,
-we are fond of comfortable subjects. We still like a taste of sugar in
-our art.</p>
-
-<p>But the brightest sign of all is the universal and hearty appreciation
-by the multitude of the buildings themselves. The expressions of delight
-by those who see for the first time these marvels of architectural
-beauty, indicate at least a capacity for artistic enjoyment. In fact,
-the American who steps for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span> the first time upon the borders of the Grand
-Basin, and looks upon the scene before him without a tingle of pride and
-pleasure is not of the stuff he should be. No words can give a just idea
-of the magnificence and restful beauty of this gigantic achievement.
-Rome and Greece were of marble and built for a more serious purpose.
-This is a city for a single summer. As such it is a complete and
-glorious triumph.</p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<p>There is nothing like a colossal exhibition to emphasize the disastrous
-effects of wealth upon the human spirit. Your friend with plenty of
-money goes to the Fair because others do and because he hates to be “out
-of it.” He reaches Chicago in a palace car, occupies luxurious rooms at
-a comfortable and expensive hotel, takes a carriage when others walk,
-and at the exhibition itself derives pleasure only from those things
-that are unexpectedly novel. And to him such sights are few and such
-sensations rare. What he does realize, however, continually and with
-force, is the enormity of the crowd with its thoughtless persistence in
-holding the best places in front of those exhibits he wishes to see
-himself. Moreover, there is an ever-increasing sense of physical
-discomfort, and that is something your moneyed friend is slow to
-forgive. But he does his duty, and he is glad above all to get home
-again.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>But how different with your less prosperous friend, who has been
-economizing for months in order to get there! It being an expensive
-business, his time is limited, and he drinks it in through all his
-senses, excitedly and with large gulps. It is hard work, but how
-interesting! That dull pain which overtakes the great majority of
-sightseers soon catches him in the back of his neck, but as long as he
-can see, hear, and walk, he profits by his opportunities. And he goes to
-his home mentally refreshed, a broader and a wiser man. He has gained an
-experience he would not exchange for many dollars.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 114px;"><a name="ill_18" id="ill_18"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_052_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_052_sml.jpg" width="114" height="199" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A BRIDE AND GROOM.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>An unlooked-for feature of the exhibition is the profusion of newly
-married couples. Whether all this individual ecstasy adds gayety or
-mournfulness to the Fair depends, of course, entirely upon the point of
-view from which the victims are regarded. It is evident that many happy
-grooms have considered this a chance to kill two birds with one stone,
-and, as far as one can judge results from outward appearances, there is
-no question as to the practical working of the scheme. The happy couple
-find themselves in a sort of fairy land, wandering about among countless
-strangers, whose very<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span> numbers seem to lend security and to harden the
-over-sensitive soul. The crowd also seems to create a feeling of
-isolation which the innermost recesses of a virgin forest could never
-supply. Moreover, there is here so much else to occupy the attention of
-the usually obnoxious public that the bride and groom can hold hands
-with absolute security and be as bold or blushing as their temperaments
-may demand.</p>
-
-<p>The rolling-chairs that run about the grounds and through the buildings
-are the salvation of many a fainting spirit. To thousands of human
-beings with nothing but a human back and human legs the fair would be a
-failure without them. They are support for the weary, strength for the
-weak, and hope and a new life for the despairing. The guides who
-navigate them are, as a rule, college students, profiting by this
-opportunity to see the fair and to secure additional dollars toward
-completing their studies. The result is, for the occupant of the chair,
-an intelligent and agreeable companion, who is ready and willing to give
-any information he may possess. And besides, they are neither sharks nor
-liars, but fair and honorable respecters of truth. There is sometimes a
-contrast in manners and education between the occupant of the chair and
-the man behind that is not in favor of the former. When one sees what is
-evidently a citizen with far more money than<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span> brains, and without the
-faintest appreciation of the beauties that encompass him, wheeled about
-at seventy-five cents an hour by a youth so far his superior that any
-comparison is impossible, it causes one to realize that Fortune is
-indeed an irresponsible flirt, who is never so happy as when doing the
-wrong thing.</p>
-
-<p>A not uncommon sight, and one of the countless illustrations of what an
-excellent husband the American becomes when properly trained, is that of
-the weary, uninterested man, lingering patiently among laces, china, and
-views of Switzerland. His heart all the while is off with the machinery,
-possibly with that more than human little machine that winds the cotton
-on the spools. Such cases are, of course, offset by the devoted women
-who wear themselves out in tramping through soulless acres of
-agricultural products, locomotives, wagons, models of ships, and all the
-other follies that appeal to man.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 233px;"><a name="ill_19" id="ill_19"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_054_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_054_sml.jpg" width="233" height="313" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The burning question of the hour for the visitor from another city is
-the question of finance. He who is worth his million and intends
-spending a fortnight in Chicago, will do well to take his million with
-him. He may bring some of it away, but that will depend entirely upon
-his own capacity for economy. Before registering at the hotel let him be
-sure to secure his return ticket, for it is a long walk from Chicago to
-New York. These remarks are not intended to discourage all who are not
-millionaires from visiting the exhibition. It can be done with less
-money. The writer has himself accomplished it. In fact, it is only fair
-to say that many of the stories of extortion which have come from the
-White City are much exaggerated. The most successful brigands are in the
-city of Chicago, and not at the Fair.</p>
-
-<p>The writer can testify, from his own personal experience, that a very
-good lunch can be procured in the State of Illinois for less than one
-hundred dollars. Thirty dollars is more than enough for a sandwich, and
-a glass of water can be purchased anywhere for less than ninety cents.
-While to walk by the <i>cafés</i> and restaurants and look upon others who
-are eating, costs the promenader nothing whatever. But these moderate
-prices do not obtain at your hotel. The object of keeping a hotel is,
-like some other occupations, partly to make money. The Chicago
-hotel-keeper does not ignore this fact.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"><a name="ill_20" id="ill_20"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_056_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_056_sml.jpg" width="364" height="265" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE QUESTION OF
-FINANCE.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>His ideas of the relation of profit to expenditure are well calculated
-to startle the guest of reasonable expectations. If the guest is not
-overweeningly ambitious and is satisfied to sleep in a closet or hang
-from the stairs, his expenses need be no greater than if he occupied a
-handsome suite of rooms at any first-class New York hotel. But if he
-insists on having a real chamber, larger even than his own bathroom at
-home, and with a real window in it, then he must pay. And it is then
-that he begins to discover why his landlord keeps a hotel. Any previous
-extravagances in the way of horses, real estate,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span> or precious stones are
-as nothing to the present outlay. He finds that the rate per diem is, as
-far as he can judge, based upon the supposition that the hotel is to be
-closed to-morrow and must be paid for to-day. And real estate is high,
-even in Chicago. In matters of nourishment, the wealth of Ormus is of no
-avail, unless the waiter receives a tip exceeding in value the
-handsomest Christmas present ever given to a dearest friend.</p>
-
-<p>Within the grounds there is little extortion, thanks to the firmness of
-the ruling powers.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"><a name="ill_21" id="ill_21"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_057_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_057_sml.jpg" width="368" height="263" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>CAFÉ IN THE MIDWAY PLAISANCE.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>But let not the Chicagoan whose eye may fall upon these lines suppose
-for an instant that they are intended as reflections on his character.
-The city that secured the prize is simply fulfilling its inevita<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span>ble
-destiny. Had New York drawn the plum we should have witnessed a worse
-extortion, with the added mortification of a much inferior exhibition.
-Moreover, there is no public spirit in New York, and there is a great
-deal of it in Chicago. This sentiment alone is more than enough to make
-the difference between success and failure. The woods are full of
-citizens willing to begin at sunrise and discourse to you until midnight
-of the wonders of Chicago. In ordinary times this burning desire to
-impart just that kind of information is not always appreciated by the
-outside world; but in times of fairs the spirit that prompts it becomes
-a mighty engine. It was soon demonstrated that these citizens could work
-as well as talk, and as a result the White City has risen as from a
-fairy’s wand.</p>
-
-<p>The important question for the individual citizen is whether it is worth
-his while to go to this fair. And this, of course, depends altogether
-upon his purse, his stomach, his back, his legs, nerves, wife, children,
-and business. He may never have another such opportunity for mental
-expansion and physical discomfort. It is a marvel of architectural
-beauty. It is days of instruction, of art and science, of surprise and
-exasperation, of mental development, fatigue, and financial ruin. In the
-end his personal preferences, however, will probably have little to do
-with it. All the world are going, and he must go too.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="THE_ART_OF_THE_WHITE_CITY" id="THE_ART_OF_THE_WHITE_CITY"></a>THE ART OF THE WHITE CITY<br /><br />
-<small><i>By Will H. Low</i></small></h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">O</span>N the way west to the White City, to “the stately pleasure-dome
-decreed,” where the arts of civilization by the unwritten law of
-International Expositions hold their court, the observant traveller
-finds abundant food for thought. Beyond Niagara, assuming his point of
-departure to be New York, he sees in the landscape through which he is
-whirled a continuous sweep of flat farming land, but little water;
-fences everywhere, trees sparsely scattered, and plain box-like houses
-telling only of shelter; abundant barns differing little from the
-dwellings, and from time to time towns of varied nomenclature ranging
-from Delhi to Kalamazoo. Through the horizontal blur caused by the speed
-of the train through which all this is seen, there appear, principally
-about the stations, figures which lend a languid interest to the dead
-level of monotony.</p>
-
-<p>The human interest of the picture, however, tells the same story as the
-landscape&mdash;a story of hard work, of material reward, an acquiescence in
-the law<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span> by which labor gains bread and shelter, and little else.
-Occasionally, in the immediate vicinity of the stations, there is some
-attempt at adornment, generally confined to “tidying up” the
-surroundings; but around the farm-houses few or no flowers, little or no
-attempt to beautify the home, nothing of the almost frantic suburban
-effort of the East which has made the country kaleidoscopically varied
-with color, for the most part bad, yet giving hope that the next
-generation will do better, and pointing at least to a desire for beauty.
-Individual effort, unseen along the route, may be slandered by the
-preceding, but such for many monotonous miles seemed the foreground of
-the picture we were journeying to see.</p>
-
-<p>At last a plain, varied by marshes, through which boarded walks running
-at right angles, with an occasional house here and there, testified to
-the various suburban excrescences of a great city; then a dome or two,
-towers, flags fluttering in the sun, innumerable trains, clangor of
-bells and shrieking of whistles; and with Chicago seven miles away,
-hidden in a pall of smoke, the White City was at hand.</p>
-
-<p>There are certain mastering impressions in one’s life, certain scenes
-which stamp the memory, and, like the priceless <i>kakemono</i> which the
-reverent Japanese withdraws from hiding when in the mood to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"><a name="ill_22" id="ill_22"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_061_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_061_sml.jpg" width="364" height="580" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>LIGHTING THE NATURAL GAS TORCHES ON THE ROOF OF THE
-ADMINISTRATION BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">enjoy it, rise obedient to one’s thought in aftertime. Such a memory is
-that of a first sunny morning in Paris: a ride from the Madeleine across
-the Place de la Concorde, along the Tuileries Gardens and the Louvre,
-across the Seine with the island and Notre Dame in the distance, and
-then through older Paris to the gardens of the Luxembourg. Or again, a
-certain early moonlit evening in Florence, with the Duomo looming at the
-end of the street, Giotto’s Campanile standing sentinel at its side, the
-narrow street to the Piazza della Signoria with its Palazzo Vecchio and
-the Loggia dei Lanzi, thence by the side of the Uffizi to the Arno and
-across the Ponte Vecchio up to the Pitti Palace. These memories, common
-to so many, are often gained on ground made familiar through study of
-guide-books and photographs which, instead of dulling realization, add
-to it the zest of more thorough appreciation. In like manner, study,
-discussion, photographs, and engravings prepare one for the Columbian
-Exposition; but the first few hours of living in its architectural
-dreamland gives reality to the shadowy preconception, and adds the
-priceless gift of another masterpiece to memory’s picture-gallery.</p>
-
-<p>It is probably impracticable in any case, and when we think of the
-transformation that this prairie has witnessed in two short years, quite
-impossible, in the case of the Exposition, to keep the approaches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span> of a
-great popular resort in any degree beautiful. Here we have on the land
-side of the Fair the usual assemblage of cheap shows, lemonade venders,
-and the like, which line the unsightly fence and make up what a friend
-has dubbed the Sideway Unpleasant. The fence is hard to pardon in a land
-where energy is predominant, desire to do the best not wanting, and
-<i>staff</i> abundant. A high white wall enclosing the substantial fabric of
-their dream would have done much to give the western approach something
-of the festal magnificence which the architects have given to the
-entrance by the Peristyle at the lake side.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 203px;"><a name="ill_23" id="ill_23"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_064_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_064_sml.jpg" width="203" height="267" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>AT NIGHT ON THE MIDWAY PLAISANCE.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>But once within, to pick flaws criticism must take a higher flight than
-one, frankly astonished at the goodness of it all, is disposed to permit
-it to. Nothing is perfect in this mundane sphere, but this effort on
-lines as yet untrodden by these States has such<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span> measure of success that
-one is proud to feel that this has been done in our own time, in one’s
-own country, by men of one’s own race&mdash;the race that peoples our
-seaboard, fills our manufacturing towns, tills our great farms, and
-stretching westward extracts precious metals here and cultivates
-orange-groves and vineyards there; the race which is daily urged, on the
-“whaleback” steamer from the city to the Fair, to purchase its
-chewing-gum before the boat starts, as none is sold after leaving the
-pier; the race that is so cosmopolitan, so made up from strange and
-opposing elements, and is withal so homogeneous, so American&mdash;and proud,
-above all, to feel that this curious people have had, at the crucial
-moment, the good sense to be inconsistent, to make haste slowly, to
-defer to the few, to make their Exposition the most beautiful before
-setting to work to make it, as things needs must be here, the biggest in
-all creation.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 229px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_065_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_065_sml.jpg" width="229" height="188" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>INDIAN GIRL AND BULL, MODELLED BY FRENCH &amp; POTTER.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>To be of this race and a follower of the arts; to have noted for years
-the growth of public desire for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 181px;"><a name="ill_24" id="ill_24"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_066_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_066_sml.jpg" width="181" height="534" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">art and the frequent lapses to indifference on its part; to have seen
-that our artists as they grow in strength and numbers claimed the right
-to do something larger and finer and better than the private house, the
-portrait statue, or the <i>genre</i> picture; and then to come here, where
-for the first time they have found opportunity, and where the alliance
-of architecture, sculpture, and painting has produced its first work, to
-find that first work surprisingly good, is to feel proud not alone for
-the valiant craftsmen who have produced this result, but for the country
-at large which has stood behind them, and above all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span> for the solid men
-of the city of Chicago who have planned the work so bravely and so
-wisely. So many elements enter into an enterprise of this kind that to a
-community like ours (unaided by a parental government which, as in
-France, takes upon itself, as one of its functions, the provision of
-public pageant and amusement, and keeps as it were all the material in
-stock) the problem was more than difficult, and the solution, solved as
-it has been, most surprising. Eighteen months ago in Paris, as I stood
-with a French friend in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, he said,
-indicating the colossal construction, “I suppose that at Chicago you
-will have a tower bigger than that, and that your exposition will be a
-triumph of that sort of thing.” “I suppose that it may,” was the answer;
-but the tower which is such a blot on Paris, diminishing in scale her
-most beautiful monuments, is nowhere to be seen in Chicago, and though
-the bones and sinews of the Liberal Arts building may be a “triumph of
-that sort of thing,” its flesh of staff effectively covers and adorns it
-without concealment of construction or strength, but with due
-consideration paid to beauty.</p>
-
-<p>To house the exhibits, to provide for instruction, and to make a
-pleasure-ground for the people (it could be urged from a utilitarian
-point of view) might indeed have been done more simply, or, as the
-phrase runs, in a more “business-like” way.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span> One rugged old farmer I
-overheard, as I stood leaning on the balustrade at the back of the
-MacMonnies fountain, as he pulled his wife away from the contemplation
-of the charming group of mermaids and sea-babies who disport themselves
-in the wake of Columbia’s triumphal galley, “Come along, Maria, I never
-see no use in them things; women with fishes’ tails.” Maria went along,
-but I fancied that Maria’s daughter lingered a moment, and she may have
-found the “use” of the artist in the social system. At any rate, the
-Chicago business man who individually and collectively represents the
-controlling power of this vast enterprise knew the use of beauty, and
-with the sagacity born of commercial success called to his aid the men
-most eminent in their professions, and then&mdash;left them alone.</p>
-
-<p>Arguing without absolute knowledge, is it not easy to imagine that many
-times during the two years spent in constructing these superb
-structures, the heart of the business man must have failed him in seeing
-this child of his creation grow in beauty and strength to be sure, but
-at a cost of so many millions? No record exists, it is safe to say, of
-any questioning. The artists had been called in, they were doing their
-work loyally; and no less loyally, through financial crisis, business
-depression, and public indifference, the business man performed his part
-of the contract. He had pledged himself to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span> whole country to do his
-best, the pledge had been given and accepted in the hour when he bore
-the coveted privilege to hold the Exposition away from competing cities,
-and the Court of Honor shows how well the pledge has been kept. A detail
-of organization, one of the many which would make the history of the
-Exposition most interesting if written, was told the other day, and is
-so characteristic of the spirit in which the Fair has been put through,
-that it is worth incorporating here. At a time when the Exposition had
-reached the limits of all possible insurance, when every sound insurance
-company in the world was carrying all the risks it was able to take, the
-Exposition concluded to do its own insurance, the details of which
-procedure need not be gone into here. At this time there were a number
-of pictures, about nine in all, which had been promised for the Loan
-Collection of Foreign Masterpieces, and were not forthcoming because of
-the inability of the Exposition to procure special insurance policies
-which had been promised when, long before, the owners of the pictures
-had consented to lend them. There seemed no way out of the difficulty,
-when the simple question was asked of the head of the Art Department, if
-it was essential to the completeness of the Loan Collection that these
-pictures should be in it? To which was answered, that if not essential,
-it was at least desir<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span>able; whereat this business man gave instructions
-that the owners of the pictures be at once communicated with and
-informed that he would personally guarantee them against loss if they
-would allow the pictures to come. As this little show of public spirit
-involved a personal liability of over two hundred thousand dollars, the
-figures may be considered eloquent enough to find place in such a paper
-as this.</p>
-
-<p>The wisdom of a large policy is to be found on every hand. The
-Exposition has been called a dream, and as it is so soon to vanish may
-well be one; but if the intent had been to deceive, it could hardly have
-been made more deceptive. To one in the gondolas or the launches
-speeding between these walls, they stand as though for all time; and for
-one walking in the long arcades, detail and veracity of construction
-force themselves on the attention most plausibly. It has been too often
-described how the architects, adopting certain dimensions, have obtained
-a conformity of effect; but that once obtained, they have shown the
-greatest freedom, and though all of them are men of many works, they
-have never perhaps been more happily inspired. The Administration
-building is the appropriate crown to the buildings leading up to it, and
-Mr. McKim’s Agricultural building is characterized by great charm of
-proportion, and though heavily charged with sculptured decoration is in
-nowise<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span> overloaded. In addition to the very decorative sculptures due to
-Mr. Martiny, there is on this building some of the most satisfactory
-ornament in purely classical vein that I can remember on any modern
-structure. In fact, though the treatment of this group of buildings is
-thoroughly classic, it is pleasant to record the belief that in no other
-country would the traditions have been so well observed and at the same
-time so revivified as in ours. Our men owe their education to the Old
-World, chiefly to France; but it seems as though a certain separation
-from the influences of their schools had given them an independence
-which their foreign schoolmates lack. It is probable that had Paris in
-1889 adopted the programme followed here the result would have been as
-correct, as thorough, as noble as this; but the result as a whole would
-have been colder, and lacking in the individual character observable
-here, where every man seems to continue the tradition rather than follow
-it. Mr. Post had long accustomed us to his capacity to build big and
-well; but never to build so big and so well as in the Liberal Arts
-building. When sailing along the lake-front one appreciates the
-immensity of the structure, which seems to equal that of all the other
-buildings combined; but near at hand one feels its beauty more than its
-bigness, and the simplicity by which this result is arrived at. The
-portals, taking almost all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span> the decorative features, are admirable. Mr.
-Atwood’s Fine Arts building is perhaps the best where all is so good,
-owing almost nothing to its decorative features&mdash;which, as the building
-is to be permanent, one may hope to see changed. The frieze of the
-Parthenon should hardly be borrowed to grace so fine a modern building.
-At night Mr. Atwood’s building is seen in all its beauty of proportion,
-and the nights when it is illuminated best of all. The torches running
-along the top of the building burn great flames of natural gas, and the
-illumination is at once simple and effective. On the roof of the
-Administration building something of the same effect is obtained in
-conjunction with the electric light outlining the dome; but as the
-torches on the Fine Arts building are seen against the sky, the effect
-is finer.</p>
-
-<p>Night and electric light play a great part in the spectacular side of
-the Fair. Solomon in all his glory never saw such a sight as the plain
-people of this continent have had on illumination nights this summer.
-Innumerable incandescent lights sparkle along the cornices and
-pediments; the top of the wall inclosing the grand basin is outlined in
-fire; search-lights from the top of the Liberal Arts building cut their
-wide swaths of light in gigantic circles, resting for a moment here and
-there to bring out now this detail or to throw into dazzling relief a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 381px;"><a name="ill_25" id="ill_25"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_073_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_073_sml.jpg" width="381" height="539" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>CENTRAL PORTION OF MACMONNIES FOUNTAIN&mdash;EFFECT OF
-ELECTRIC-LIGHT.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">sculptured figure or beast. It lingers longest on MacMonnies’s fountain,
-the fitting jewel resting lightly on the bosom of this Venetian beauty
-whom but yesterday we called Chicago; and well it may, as in a degree
-the fountain is the <i>clou</i> of the Exposition. It seems but fair to call
-this fountain the most important of all the decorative sculptures. Every
-exposition has its great fountain, and the choice of Mr. MacMonnies to
-execute this one was most happy. Our sculptors as a rule have had too
-little opportunity to exercise the decorative side of their art, and we
-do not possess as does France a small army of sculptors who can be, as
-they were in ’89, turned loose to decorate a great exposition with
-groups and figures. It demands not only a decorative instinct but
-practice as well, a certain habit of and delight in handling huge masses
-of form which men who are capable perhaps of graver and more ponderated
-work may lack or have lost. Thus fifteen years ago Saint-Gaudens, fresh
-from school and filled with its traditions, would have in the course of
-natural selection been the man for the work; but with years and widening
-experience it is a question whether he would have undertaken to design
-and carry out in the short space of time that which his brilliant pupil
-has undertaken and carried through with all the audacity and fire of
-youth, tempered by a delicacy of taste which gives it after all its
-greatest value. Anything<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span> more typical of the youth and hope which we
-fondly believe to be the characteristic of our nation is hard to
-conceive; and if, as is to be so greatly desired, the monument is to be
-made permanent (which the completeness of the modelling of individual
-parts, an unusual quality in works like this, would render easy), it
-might well stand to represent an era. Mr. French’s massive and dignified
-figure of America may be taken as the matron of this generation, tried
-and made strong through war; but MacMonnies’s epitome of youth
-represents the future of our as yet experimental civilization, and
-though the boat is propelled by the arts and sciences, it is the young
-girl who fills such a large part in our experiment who is really to the
-fore. It is Smith and Wellesley who row with the young girl enthroned;
-and <i>vogue la galère</i>, with pleasant waters ahead and a safe port at
-last!</p>
-
-<p>Of Mr. Saint-Gaudens we have only a figure of Columbus, which he has
-signed in collaboration with another of his pupils, Miss Mary G.
-Lawrence. It is a good exemplification of what has already been said
-that at the first glance this figure seems almost out of place here. It
-is of a character&mdash;the highest character&mdash;of work which depends on the
-most serious study. Conception and pose are reduced to the simplest,
-almost archaic form, and while it does not seem quite as successful, it
-is of the same family as the Lincoln here in Chicago or the Deacon
-Chapin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span> in Springfield. The best of the sculpture here, while subject to
-the limitations twice mentioned, has perhaps gained a quality more
-essentially American by the absence of what may be called the ready-made
-decorative quality. The quadriga on the Peristyle, by French &amp; Potter,
-the Indian girl and the bull, and indeed all the figures and animals at
-which these artists have worked together, are thoroughly satisfactory as
-decoration, and more native and appropriate to our soil than the lighter
-touch and greater facility of the sculpture at the exhibition on the
-Champ de Mars would have been.</p>
-
-<p>The painters of the band of allied artists had the more difficult task.
-In the first place our country has arbitrarily forced our painters to
-work on a miniature scale, and with little exception our men affronted
-their task with theory and enthusiasm as their preparation. The
-sculptors had at least the practice of modelling large works; but with
-the exception of Mr. Maynard, who has taken Pompeian motives and given
-us under the porches of the Agricultural building a thoroughly
-architectural and adequate decoration in which his past experience has
-rendered him service, the painters were virtually winning their first
-spurs. Taking this into consideration their success is marked. Tried by
-the standard that the space allotted to a decoration should be filled,
-and filled by a composition which could not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span> serve within any other
-shaped space than that for which it is devised, Mr. Blashfield’s seems
-the most successful. In addition to this quality it has great charm of
-color and dignity of conception, which latter quality, combined with
-clean, workmanlike drawing, is shared by Mr. Cox. Mr. Reid’s and Mr.
-Weir’s domes also have charming qualities, while Mr. Shirlaw’s gives one
-the impression of a complete mastery of his scheme and intention. At the
-southern end of the Liberal Arts building, Mr. Melchers and Mr. McEwen
-have large compositions, those of the latter being marked perhaps by the
-greater individuality; but while they are all (each painter having two
-compositions) executed in a very able manner, they seem somewhat lacking
-in spontaneity. In another part of the grounds in the Women’s building
-the feminine contingent makes a brave show. Mrs. MacMonnies here leads
-the van with a composition sober in line and excellent in color. Miss
-Cassatt, having apparently defied the laws of decoration, has divided
-her space in three parts, in each of which she has painted pictures
-which, from her previous work, must be judged to be of excellent
-quality, but which, from the height at which they are seen and by reason
-of the small scale of the figures, are virtually lost. But this partial
-and cursory enumeration of what may be seen at the Fair could be
-continued beyond the limits of an article like this, and still leave
-unnamed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span> and apparently unappreciated much that is admirable and more
-that is hopeful. Of the delights of living in the midst of this, of
-seeing our people in holiday trim and, albeit, taking their pleasure
-somewhat sadly and getting as much instruction combined with it as
-possible, still enjoying it, much could be said. No mention has been
-made of the State buildings, which give, however, so much character to
-the grounds. New York’s imperial palace, bright and luxurious, is
-flanked on one side by Massachusetts’s staid and trim reproduction of
-John Hancock’s mansion, with additions of a character which must temper
-the smile of gentle reproof with which it regards its frivolous
-neighbor; while on the other stands Pennsylvania’s broad piazzaed home
-which shelters the Liberty bell. New Jersey reproduces a colonial
-“Head-quarters” mansion, and Washington is big and new and booming;
-California shows her fruits and extols her wines in a lowlying structure
-which recalls the <i>adobe</i> missions of her first settlers; and each and
-every State has here its home, first for its own people and then for the
-neighbors. Strange neighbors we have too, for the Midway Plaisance is
-not far away with its turbaned, sandalled, greased, and befeathered
-inhabitants, with its German and Austrian bands, its great difference of
-tongues and great similarity of <i>cuisine</i>. The outdoor life which is
-made so much of in Europe here<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span> seems unappreciated; the numberless
-cafés and out-of-door restaurants which make up so much of the comfort
-with which one sees an exposition there still “leave to be desired”
-here. But these are details and of things earthy. The moral of the tale
-is short and easily read.</p>
-
-<p>Our work-a-day nation awakened, it has been frequently said, to
-knowledge of the existence of art as a factor in life at Philadelphia
-seventeen years ago, and here and now attains as it were its majority.
-We may leave out our exhibit in the Fine Arts building proper, with the
-mere registration of the fact that by general consent it holds its own
-as well or better than close students of our art have known that it has
-done for several years past. The exhibition, or that part controlled by
-the Columbian Commission, is our best sign of progress, nay, of
-achievement. It has proved that throughout the land when occasion arises
-to build, to carve, or to paint, we have the men to do it. Art hath her
-victories no less than commerce; the qualities which have given us our
-place among nations, now that the struggle is past, are turned in
-gentler paths; and that which was prophecy so short a time ago is now
-truth realized:</p>
-
-<div class="poetry">
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">“Following the sun, westward the march of power,<br /></span>
-<span class="i1">The rose of might blooms in our new-world mart;<br /></span>
-<span class="i1">But see just bursting forth from bud to flower<br /></span>
-<span class="i1">A late, slow growth, the fairer rose of art.”<br /></span>
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span></div></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a name="FOREGROUND_AND_VISTA_AT_THE_FAIR" id="FOREGROUND_AND_VISTA_AT_THE_FAIR"></a>
-FOREGROUND AND VISTA AT THE FAIR<br /><br />
-<small><i>By W. Hamilton Gibson</i></small></h2>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 311px;"><a name="ill_26" id="ill_26"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_081_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_081_sml.jpg" width="311" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">B</span>Y the time this brief sketch shall have appeared in print the world’s
-greatest international fair will have thrown open its gates to the
-impatient multitudes, and millions will have looked with rapture upon
-its impressive perspectives of palaces and enjoyed their treasures. Even
-to the great general public, who are as yet awaiting with eager
-anticipation the indispensable outing at the Fair, its surpassing
-architectural features are already enticingly familiar. The “White City”
-is already a heritage of delight and inspiration to a vast multitude who
-have spent their available days beneath the spell of its enchantment.</p>
-
-<p>It is no small thing thus to have penetrated the veil, as it were, as is
-here actually done for many<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span>&mdash;to have materialized a vision&mdash;to have
-embodied a paradise. The “Heavenly City,” the “New Jerusalem,” with
-gates of gold and pearl, which in one questionable shape or another
-hovers in the hopeful, faithful fancy of so many of the sons of Adam
-will here find a realization, supplanting or exalting the ideal which
-has hitherto not always been to the glory of Heaven.</p>
-
-<p>But in thus paying tribute to the architect we are perhaps unconsciously
-crediting him with more than his due; certainly more than he would
-himself claim. Of what avail were beautiful palaces if they could not be
-seen? and how easily might such an assemblage of heroic structures such
-as these at Jackson Park, as in previous similar expositions, have been
-so disposed, with relation to each other and their environment, as to
-have completely lost not only their individual impressiveness but the
-infinite advantage of their imposing <i>ensemble</i>.</p>
-
-<p>We traverse the winding lagoon for an hour in continual delight, every
-passing moment, every quiet turn of our launch or gondola beneath
-arching bridge or jutting revetement opening up in either direction new
-and ravishing vistas of architectural beauty. Yet how little have we
-considered that the very means of our enjoyment, the pure blue waterway
-upon which our gondola so listlessly floats, is the crowning artifice by
-which the work of the archi<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span>tect is glorified&mdash;a very triumph and
-inspiration in the great scheme of landscape&mdash;say rather
-waterscape&mdash;gardening, which has made this Columbian Fair a unique model
-for all others of its kind. I think it is conceded by the architects of
-the Fair that in no way are its buildings to be seen to such
-satisfaction or full effect as from the lagoon. And it is well to
-remember, if only as an instructive object-lesson, as we glide upon this
-liquid street, how much of our present enjoyment is due to the
-forethought of a supreme design, which, even before a single
-foundation-wall was laid, had taken into account the most effective
-grouping of the architectural features.</p>
-
-<p>More than this, too, how many of these fortunate architects must have
-realized the rare satisfaction of having builded better than they knew,
-when for the first time they viewed their works from the vantage point
-afforded by their collaborator, the landscape artist, and saw these
-superb creations given back to them in twofold beauty from the clear
-mirror of the lagoon. The unique character and important innovation of
-this lagoon feature may be inferred when we consider that we have here
-an Exposition covering over five hundred and fifty acres, comfortably
-filled to its limits with the ample buildings, and yet no vehicles are
-to be allowed within its enclosure, and none will be required. The
-circuitous elevated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 367px;"><a name="ill_27" id="ill_27"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_084_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_084_sml.jpg" width="367" height="460" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE BORDER OF THE LAGOON.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">railroad will of course transport the multitudes; while by the interior
-skilful distribution of the water-ways, rippling with gayly caparisoned
-gondolas by the score, and a hundred trim electric launches and other
-equally picturesque craft, every portion of the grounds will be easily
-accessible. The entire circuit on this water-course, from any given
-point, will occupy nearly an hour. The luxurious tourist arriving at his
-destination is invited at the water’s edge by ascending terraces of
-marble steps, their balustrades on either side overtopped by picturesque
-masses of tropic<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span> and other luxuriant vegetation. Huge bronze-like
-agaves surmount the lofty marble urns; cannas, musas, caladiums, in most
-effective and artistic groups, are dispersed among broad expanses of
-velvety sward, begemmed with parterres of brilliant bloom.</p>
-
-<p>But it is not alone in these picturesque settings of lawn and garden
-which everywhere abound throughout the grounds that we find our fullest
-appreciation of the landscape art. In the spell of these imposing
-structures, towering above the revetement walls on each side as we
-traverse the lagoon, we had utterly ignored another feature of its
-banks, or perhaps had our attention only momentarily inveigled thither
-by the invitation of the bevy of snowy ducks or geese or graceful swans
-hastening from our prow, and gliding beneath the overhanging boughs of
-feathery gray willows. Here indeed is a haven for a tired soul, a fairy
-realm whose modest charms are apt to be overlooked in the claims of the
-overwhelming architectural surroundings. But sooner or later its restful
-refuge will be discovered and welcomed. How many a foot-sore mortal,
-weary from the very excess of enthusiasm, will seek this quiet
-retirement, content for the moment to consign the architect to the
-accessory place of vista and horizon, while he roams and pries and muses
-among the labyrinthian paths, fragrant bowers, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span> shadowy glades, and
-along the reedy flowery borders of this sylvan fairy island, which the
-artistic genius of Olmsted and Codman has here, in two short years,
-conjured up like magic from the muddy, dreary marsh.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 188px;"><a name="ill_28" id="ill_28"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_086_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_086_sml.jpg" width="188" height="286" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A BIT OF THE CALIFORNIAN BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Connected to the mainland by a half-dozen spans of bridges, it is
-readily accessible from any approach. It is a realm of strange
-inconsistencies and surprises, harmonies and pleasant discords, unified
-with the rarest skill. The familiar park or garden at one moment, its
-curving walks encircling more or less&mdash;generally less&mdash;conventional
-parterre, diversified with closely bedded mosaic of bright blossoms; and
-now a path leading us between high walls of blossom-laden shrubbery,
-skirting a rustic arbor, or winding beneath the shade of tall, dense
-branches of trees, which, however at home they may appear, so
-wonderfully has the skill of the landscapist concealed his artifice, are
-still almost as much strangers to the soil as ourselves; the adjustment
-and grouping giving the complete illusion of nature’s random planting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;"><a name="ill_29" id="ill_29"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_087_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_087_sml.jpg" width="328" height="262" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE CALIFORNIAN BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Only a very few of the thousands of trees upon this “wooded
-island”&mdash;medium-sized white-oaks&mdash;are native tenants of the place. Only
-two years ago isolated in the more elevated dunes of a great morass,
-they now find themselves in strange company; the soil from the bed of
-the lagoon, having levelled the former slopes about their feet, is now
-peopled with individuals as large as themselves. Many a rare nook upon
-the island’s borders would defy the critical scrutiny of the botanist or
-artist to detect a single tell-tale evidence of artifice. Would you step
-from the conventional park to the wild garden in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;"><a name="ill_30" id="ill_30"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_088_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_088_sml.jpg" width="374" height="328" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A COVE IN WOODED ISLAND.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">ten paces? Follow me through this winding path, embowered with its snowy
-banks of spiræa. Pry your way here beneath the branches. A few more
-steps, and the ripples gleam through the branches before us, and we
-emerge at the water’s edge beneath a tangle of willows, while a brood of
-white ducks, disturbed at our approach, glide out upon the
-mill-pond&mdash;for such indeed is the irresistible association from the
-surroundings. This haphazard chaos of willows and alders disarms all
-suspicion of artificial planting. We already anticipate the scene at the
-brink, and as we press our way among the yielding oziers, find ourselves
-listening<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span> for the familiar “c-r-o-n-k” among the spatter-docks. In a
-moment more we confront a tiny cove bordered with sedges and tall
-bulrushes, and intermingled gray-green willows and alders, while the
-water beneath is hidden by dense clumps of lush pickerel-weed, luxuriant
-in their feathery spikes of azure bloom. A tiny sportive frog leaps from
-the border mud, and a dragon-fly darts past on shimmering wing.</p>
-
-<p>It is only as we contemplate the vista across the water that we realize
-the beautiful deception as yonder beetling dome, in its gilded splendor,
-or sunlit palaces everywhere gleaming through the waters are brought to
-our feet in ripples from gliding gondola, swan, or duck.</p>
-
-<p>Was ever border-tangle brushed by mill-pond raft or fishing-punt more
-wild or spontaneous than this! Foreground and vista in endless
-combination and surprise greet us as we follow our course about the
-shore, with Flora’s own wild calendar from week to week. Here a secluded
-harbor, bristling with arrowheads and white with its spires of bloom,
-its sedgy banks aflame with cardinal flowers, whose scarlet reflections
-mingle with the snowy glints from the sunlit façade or spangling flashes
-from the crystal dome across the water. Here we invade the sheltered
-retreat of a bittern or small heron, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span> stalks away with ruffled
-temper at our intrusion. Creeping between the neighboring bank of
-alders, we emerge upon a sequestered nook shut off from the main lagoon
-by a small, straggling islet, plumy with willows and sedges, the main
-banks fringed with rushes and burr-marigolds and tall galingales that
-wave their graceful heads above a wild garden of blossoming blue flag.
-In and out among its willows beyond, the ever-present fleet of ducks
-glides among the dancing ripples, or snow-white swans “float
-double&mdash;swan and shadow,” as in the enchanted vision of “St. Mary’s
-Isle.”</p>
-
-<p>As we leave this beguiling haunt the air is suddenly bewitched with
-entrancing perfume, and our fancy lit with luminous visions of the
-Orient from the great golden doorway which glows through the branches
-from the opposite brink and floods the water with its liquid replica.
-Attar of roses! One such inviting whiff is sufficient. Leaving the
-water’s edge we return toward the interior of the island, and are soon
-confronted by the wonderful rose-garden wherein are assembled all the
-roses of the world, with their thousands of varieties. Roses single and
-double, pink roses, white roses, roses yellow, crimson, orange, and
-saffron, and, indeed, of every hue but blue, mingling their beauty and
-their fragrance in an acre of bloom, and sprinkling the ground in
-showers of petals with every breeze.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 364px;"><a name="ill_31" id="ill_31"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_091_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_091_sml.jpg" width="364" height="434" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE EDGE OF THE ROSE GARDEN, WOODED ISLAND.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The now famous rose-garden lies in the southern end of the island,
-approached through winding walks, garlanded with flowery shrubs of every
-habit and hue, of graceful blossom-burdened spiræas, drooping as with a
-weight of snow, or varied with rare foliaged plants which vie with the
-flowers in the endless play of their brilliant colors. Through the
-skilful foresight and planning of Mr. John Thorpe, the custodian of this
-realm dedicated to Flora, the fair goddess has crowned him with a new
-decoration of wreath or laurel for every week,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span> from the earliest yellow
-glow of May to the brilliant maples and the final autumnal glory of the
-chrysanthemum.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 238px;"><a name="ill_32" id="ill_32"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_092_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_092_sml.jpg" width="238" height="282" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>JAPANESE BUILDING ON WOODED ISLAND.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Japonica! Japonica! How continually does the spirit of the flowery land
-hover here! It is, indeed, scarcely a surprise that the actual, familiar
-outlines of its quaint massive gables suddenly confronts us, looking
-down above a mass of the Mikado’s own chrysanthemum, and we suddenly
-find ourselves transported to Tokio or Yokohama, surrounded by a
-veritable epitome of Japan, embracing all the actual features, floral,
-ornamental, and utilitarian, with which, through the educational
-influence of painted fan and screen and household gods of vase and
-kakemono, we have become so pleasantly familiar.</p>
-
-<p>The long, low-roofed, wooden temple is surrounded from its foundation by
-a characteristic terraced garden, embracing many examples of those<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span>
-“precious goods done up in small parcels,” which have always been the
-particular fad of the Japanese horticulturist&mdash;tiny giants of trees, so
-to speak, arranged in miniature parks, which, for the moment, make the
-beholder seem to be upon a mighty cliff or in flight with the soaring
-falcon, else how could he thus gaze down upon the summit of such a huge,
-lofty pine as this which he now sees beneath him! A fine example of one
-of these arboreal paradoxes is to be seen in the Japanese exhibit in the
-Horticultural Building&mdash;an aged dwarf of an <i>arbor vitæ</i> (<i>Thuja</i>) like
-a gigantic cedar of Lebanon, which, while having all the inherent
-characteristics of an actual age and dignity of over one hundred years,
-is still, with the big vase which it occupies, barely the height of
-one’s shoulders.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 358px;"><a name="ill_33" id="ill_33"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_093_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_093_sml.jpg" width="358" height="222" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>AN AGED JAPANESE DWARF, ONE HUNDRED YEARS OLD&mdash;A CORNER OF THE
-HORTICULTURAL BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In no structure within the grounds is the outward expression so
-sympathetically reflective of its architectural purpose as in the
-Fisheries Building. Itself reflected in the blue lagoon, in its
-architectural functions and sculptural ornament, it in turn reflects the
-lacustrine life of the waters, which not only almost lave its foundation
-walls but actually pour into its interior in fountain and cascade and
-gigantic aquaria. As we follow around these green translucent walls
-within, our passage lit only from the diffused light transmitted from
-above the water, we can almost fancy ourselves walking on the actual
-river-bed, ogled by familiar forms of sun-fish, perch, or pickerel; or
-perhaps wandering as in a dream among fair ocean caves abloom with
-brilliant sea-anemones, and embowered with mimic groves of branching
-corals and all manner of softly swaying sea-weed&mdash;graceful crimson
-laminaria reaching to the surface of the water, responding in serpentine
-grace to the soft invasion of waving fin. Rare living gems of fishes,
-very butterflies of the deep, float past flashing in iridescence with
-every subtile turn of their painted bodies. Star-fish, at first
-apparently stationary, as though in mid-water, glide across the illusive
-plane of glass, with their thousand fringy discs of feet. Strange crabs
-and mollusks and bivalves sport on the pebbly bottoms, and portentous
-monsters, with great gaping mouths, threaten<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span> us as they emerge from
-their nebulous obscurity and steal to within a few inches of our faces.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 170px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_095_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_095_sml.jpg" width="170" height="184" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>PORTAL OF THE FISHERIES BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>All of its interior ichthyological features might have been anticipated
-even at the threshold of the building, with its rich and effective
-portals, where so many of these very forms are seen petrified in surface
-ornament. The building is in the form of a rectangular central structure
-with two octagonal annexes, each with its own beautiful portal, and
-connected to the main edifice by curved colonnades, with arch and
-balustrade&mdash;portal and pillar, capital, entablature and arch and
-panel&mdash;everywhere sculptured with ornaments whose themes are drawn from
-the subaqueous life to which the building is dedicated. The very balcony
-upon which we lean is supported by columns composed of four ingeniously
-and gracefully interlocked dolphins, while the pillars on right and left
-and throughout the entire exterior suggest curious geometric fossils
-from the deeps. Here a spiral procession of huge toads, whose uncouth
-shapes thus embodied in conventional ornament are singularly agreeable
-and effective. Each successive pillar is a study alike for the
-naturalist or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span> designer&mdash;here a sinuous procession of river-horses
-(hippocampus), the incurved tail forming a volute repeated with pleasant
-effect in the spiral bands of ornament. Accommodating star-fishes
-embrace their respective pillars, touching points in geometric design.
-Here are eels and fishes meandering among bulrushes and arrowheads.
-Lizards, crabs, and turtles, each combine in effective ornament about
-their particular columns, which are surmounted by capitals of even
-greater ingenuity and effectiveness of design, perhaps because less
-geometric. Gaping frogs leaping among water-weeds; lobsters captive and
-sprawling in their wicker “pots;” fishes entangled in the meshes of
-nets, or engaged in mortal combat, their gaping mouths finely utilized
-in effective points of shadow&mdash;the modelling of each and all suggests
-the perfection of a cast from nature. To those who look for a happy
-blending of architectural purpose and harmonious ornament, this building
-will be a welcome innovation. To the naturalist or the idler in quest of
-the mere picturesque, the Fisheries Building with its wandering façade
-and colonnade, its roof of ruddy tiles and almost Moresque richness of
-surface ornament in high relief, will be found well worth careful study.</p>
-
-<p>How many are the obvious natural themes yet awaiting their sculptured
-memorial in the temple of architecture. Must the classical and testy
-acanthus<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 372px;"><a name="ill_34" id="ill_34"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_097_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_097_sml.jpg" width="372" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>ELKHORN FERN, A SUGGESTION FOR AN ARCHITECT&mdash;IN THE AUSTRALIAN
-EXHIBIT, HORTICULTURAL HALL.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">forever guard that exalted basket unchallenged, and the antique, indeed
-almost palæontologic lotus forever keep us oblivious to the abounding
-wealth of natural suggestion of even surpassing opportunity? What a rare
-suggestion for a national architectural theme, for instance, has nature
-thus far wasted on the wilderness in that elk-horn fern of Australia,
-which forms one of the most con<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span>spicuous features of the arboreal
-exhibit of that land of tropic contradictions and zoölogical anomalies.
-Where can there be found another such ready-made and graceful model for
-a massive capital?</p>
-
-<p>Had this remarkable plant chanced to have been a native of ancient Egypt
-or Rome or Greece, it is difficult to conceive of its having escaped
-being immortalized in stone. Will the future national architecture of
-Australia ever embody its opportunities? Here is a veritable capital of
-clustered fern-forms, springing in graceful relief from a solid
-sculptured base. In some of the examples shown it simply surrounds the
-trunk upon which it is a parasite, and in others, the architectural
-suggestion is heightened by the cluster appearing at the summit of its
-pillar, the dead continuation of the trunk above having fallen.</p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<p>Superlative anticipation of our hopes is often disastrous to their full
-realization. But no such danger awaits the visitor to the Columbian
-Fair. The most extreme glorification of this superb achievement at
-Chicago still leaves us the superlative of actual experience.</p>
-
-<p>Dull indeed must be the intelligence which fails to respond to the
-vision of beauty which the genius of architecture has here created.
-Whatever oblivion may await the other features of the Exposition, the
-fame of the architect is secure. Even though in their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span> substance his
-creations here are but as the flowers of a day, to be cut down ere the
-coming of winter, their very evanescence constitutes their most abiding
-charm.</p>
-
-<p>Though we may spend weeks in the enjoyment of the unexampled treasures
-within these walls, confusion will at length claim most of our minor
-reminiscences, and the winnowing process of the years will at last leave
-few tokens. But the glamour of this celestial city, this throng of
-ethereal palaces hovering between sky and sky, buoyant as with uplifting
-archangel wings from dome and pinnacle and acroteria&mdash;these will abide
-to the end of our days.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="THE_PICTURESQUE_SIDE" id="THE_PICTURESQUE_SIDE"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_100_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_100_sml.jpg" width="352" height="212" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<br />
-THE PICTURESQUE SIDE<br /><br />
-<small><i>By F. Hopkinson Smith</i></small></h2>
-
-<h3>I.</h3>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span> BLAZING sun and a clear limpid sky, a long lagoon, gray-green and
-silver, a noble flight of steps serving as water-landing for half a
-dozen gay-colored gondolas, a grand balustrade protecting a broad
-platform leading to the porch and entrance of the most exquisitely
-beautiful building of modern times&mdash;the Art Palace of the Great
-Exposition!</p>
-
-<p>From the corner of this balustrade a red rag of <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span>an awning, torn from an
-old tarpaulin, is stretched to an oar, its black shadow spilling down
-the white steps. Under this awning, flat on his back, sound asleep, lies
-a gondolier, fresh from Venice. Despite his nondescript costume of
-brigand’s leggings and cavalier’s cap I cannot mistake that broad chest
-and sunny face, the crisp black hair, and the fine lines of the throat
-and thigh.</p>
-
-<p>“Espero!” I call out in glad surprise.</p>
-
-<p>“<i>Commandi Signore</i>,” comes the quick reply, as he springs to his feet.</p>
-
-<p>Other gondoliers join us: Marco, who at home plys a boat at the
-<i>Traghetto</i>, just above the <i>Salute</i>; and Luigi, who for five years past
-has won at the Annual Regatta on the Grand Canal&mdash;a superb fellow is
-Luigi, as handsome as a Venetian, and every inch a gondolier; and
-Francesco, his brother, first gondolier to the Countess, whose palace
-fronts the <i>Accademia</i>. For the instant I am in Venice again, while they
-all talk to me at once, telling me of their friends and mine whom we
-have known there&mdash;subjects far more absorbing than all the surprises of
-this new world. Five minutes later we are swinging up the Lagoon, Marco
-bending his oar aft, Espero on the cushions beside me.</p>
-
-<p>There is to me a seeming fitness in entering the Court of Honor
-reclining in a gondola and rowed by a gondolier. No other craft that
-floats could so perfectly harmonize with these surroundings; none so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span>
-dainty, so graceful, so dignified. There are no other oarsmen who could
-move with such ease and finish. These stately water-birds of Venice and
-their masters add, too, an element of the picturesque. They are to the
-lagoons what the flowers are to the esplanades, or the swans to the
-smaller inlets. The launches, noiseless as they are, seem out of place
-here and jar upon your senses; they are too new, too suggestive of
-progress and revenue and time-saving. But the gondola revives the
-traditions and customs of those earlier centuries, when this great White
-City of the Lake was still in its glory. Moreover, it is the only sort
-of princely craft which these noble families, whom you feel sure have
-lived for centuries in these great palaces, could use in their
-magnificent goings and comings.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 218px;"><a name="ill_35" id="ill_35"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_102_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_102_sml.jpg" width="218" height="142" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE PERISTYLE.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>For whenever I stand on the bridge of the Peristyle and look across the
-Court of Honor, surrendering myself to the magic spell of its beauty, I
-cannot help yielding to the conviction that this noble quadrangle is
-surrounded by palaces of marble<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"><a name="ill_36" id="ill_36"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_103_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_103_sml.jpg" width="376" height="581" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>DISTANT VIEW OF DOME OF THE HORTICULTURAL BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">which have taken centuries to perfect; that the grounds and walks,
-stretches of grass, masses of flowering plants, and bold colossal
-statues have all been added from time to time, as in other palace
-gardens of old, when opportunity or royal whim dictated; that this great
-city was built ages ago, long before the time of the Greeks, who
-modelled their own temples along their classic lines; and that not only
-were its builders the ablest and most learned men of all ages, but that
-their descendants, those who live beneath these roofs, are the wisest,
-the most cultured, and the most artistic men and women of their time.</p>
-
-<p>To me, moreover, the City is never evanescent nor unreal; never like a
-house built upon the sands. It is, when I look at it in amazed delight,
-not only entirely genuine, but firm and solid as the marble which it
-resembles. It is too vast, and the elements of atmosphere, perspective
-and proportion, enter too largely into its <i>ensemble</i> to make it appear
-other than genuine. When, for instance, you stand in Athens, near the
-Parthenon, and your eye falls on a broken column at your feet, you <i>see</i>
-that it is marble, and you <i>know</i> that it is heavy. But without this
-sample stone in the foreground, and your knowledge of the character and
-quality of the material, the whole temple is to you, from where you
-look, only a film of light, now ivory, now alabaster, now lost in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span>
-purple shadows. Here, about the White City, there is no broken column as
-an eye test, there are only superb façades, reaching skyward, and great
-stretches of columns and arches, relieved by gilded domes and sculptured
-frieze. They are never close to you&mdash;no comprehensive view is possible
-nearer than two hundred feet, and who can tell “staff” from marble at
-that distance&mdash;but far away, across the shimmer of the Lagoon, or over
-the massing of foliage or clustered roofs.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 233px;"><a name="ill_37" id="ill_37"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_106_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_106_sml.jpg" width="233" height="161" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>DOME OF HORTICULTURAL BUILDING AT NIGHT.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>There is, in addition to all this element of reality, a reality which
-every one must feel for himself, still another charm&mdash;an undefinable
-quality that constantly surprises and delights you. To this is united a
-majestic picturesqueness investing these superb palaces and royal
-gardens with a distinction never attained by any of their predecessors.
-This does not seem to be due so much to colossal proportions nor to the
-never-ending series of buildings piled one behind the other, as to the
-skill shown by architects<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 372px;"><a name="ill_38" id="ill_38"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_107_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_107_sml.jpg" width="372" height="604" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>IN OLD VIENNA.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">and landscape gardeners in the general plan. Especially is this charm
-felt in the absence of rectangular lines of construction; in the winding
-in and out of the lagoons; in the neglected fringing of untrimmed
-foliage skirting the water’s edge; in the half submerged bits of islands
-where the ducks plume their feathers; in the informal formality of great
-massing of plants; in the dotting of broad stretches of gray-green water
-with gay-colored gondolas; and in the colossal proportions of superb
-decorative statues, so that a glimpse of Venice can be caught between
-the forelegs of a huge sculptured bull, and the columns of a classic
-temple be outlined over the back of some water-sprayed mermaid.</p>
-
-<p>It is easy while under the spell of this Ancient City to persuade myself
-that in this their festival year, these nobles who dwell here are
-holding high carnival, with much feasting and merry-making, and
-illuminations at night. That they have bidden all the nations of the
-earth to join them in these gracious festivities lasting many months;
-and that as an especial honor, and for the delight and entertainment of
-these distinguished guests, they have decreed that a great fair shall be
-held where may be seen many strange people from the uttermost parts of
-the earth, who, with barbaric dancing and weird music may depict the
-manners and customs of their climes. That this Fair of the Festival Year
-shall be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span> placed, not within the lines of the Palaces but outside the
-walls of the Great City, at the end of a broad highway, rolled out like
-a huge carpet of many colors.</p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<p>Rousing myself from these reveries, I bid Espero good-by, join the
-throng, follow through the gates and so out upon this broad highway, the
-Plaisance. My dreams are all true. Along the crowded thoroughfare move
-half the wild tribes of the earth&mdash;Javanese, Esquimaux, natives of the
-Soudan, Bedouins from beyond the Great Desert, Algerians, Arabs, Greeks,
-Armenians, Syrians, and Turks. Fringing each edge of this gay promenade
-I find the huts of the Javanese and Soudanese, the tents of the Bedouins
-and Arabs, and the more pretentious booths and structures of the
-Algerians and kindred people. Here, too, are the quaint gateways and
-open squares of old German and Austrian towns; the low-roofed, deftly
-constructed houses of the Japanese; the intricate carvings of India
-covering the booths, and, draping the doors of the Eastern bazaars the
-rich stuffs, rugs, and tapestries of the Orient.</p>
-
-<p>Near the entrance to the Turkish village, tucked away on one side of the
-highway, just out of the rush of the never-ceasing throng, and yet close
-enough to be within call, rises the dome of a small<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span> Mosque. Above this
-a single, snow-white minaret shoots up into the blue.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="ill_39" id="ill_39"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_111_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_111_sml.jpg" width="250" height="374" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MOSQUE OF THE SULTAN SELIM.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>When the sun is gone there leans from a tiny balcony high up on this
-needle of a minaret, a white-robed priest. Suddenly above the whirl and
-hurry<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span> there filters down through the soft twilight air the Muezzin’s
-call for prayer:</p>
-
-<p>“La Ilah Ell-Allah Muhammed Rassoul Ell-Allah.”</p>
-
-<p>To me there is nothing so simple, nothing so impressive, nothing so
-devout, as a Muhammedan standing in the presence of his God. There is a
-childlike faith, a manly trust, a sincere belief evinced and experienced
-by these believers, that never seems to predominate in any other form of
-religion.</p>
-
-<p>How often, in a great cathedral, do you come upon a figure silently
-leaving the confessional, and catching a full view of the face, detect a
-lingering trace of sorrow, or anxiety, or doubt. But watch the faces of
-these Muhammedans, these poor sedan-chair carriers, and of that
-broad-shouldered Arab, who has been moving great boxes of unpacked goods
-on his back all day. How tired they all look as they enter the Mosque,
-bowing low with reverent awe, and prostrating themselves wearily to the
-pavement. It is as if each penitent had brought his very burden within
-these sacred precincts, supplicating for relief.</p>
-
-<p>Now look, when the silent service is over, and study these same faces
-as, with a light-hearted spring, each man rises from his knees and with
-serene expression, and calm, restful eyes takes up once more the burden
-of his life.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>This exquisite and picturesque little Mosque&mdash;it is the prototype of the
-purest bit of Eastern architecture in Stamboul&mdash;these thoroughly genuine
-people, this sacred service&mdash;not as a necessary part of the Oriental
-exhibit, but as an essential, indispensable part of the life of the
-natives themselves&mdash;this combination of the genuine and the picturesque
-is to me the true keynote of the Great Exposition.</p>
-
-<h3>II.</h3>
-
-<p>My old and valued friend, Far-away Moses:&mdash;What a superb old Shylock he
-is; not in the sense of “three thousand ducats and for three months,”
-but in the unique quality of the character itself! Neither Irving nor
-Booth ever conceived so fine and fitting a costume as this old man wears
-every day in and out of his bazaar, and along the streets of his
-transplanted village; a costume of soft material, with an under-vest
-delicately embroidered, the over-jacket a coat of brown camel’s-hair
-with dark red voluminous waist-sash and the wide Eastern skirts covering
-his still sturdy legs.</p>
-
-<p>My old and valued friend, Far-away Moses, I say, invited me to dinner. I
-have enjoyed this especial privilege very often in his own bazaar in
-Stamboul, and the aroma of the Mocha and the soothing qualities of his
-Narghilehs have haunted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span> me ever since. Now, thanks to his courtesy, I
-can enjoy them every day. There is nothing missing in the surroundings
-of his own bazaar here on the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 235px;"><a name="ill_40" id="ill_40"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_114_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_114_sml.jpg" width="235" height="310" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“FAR-AWAY MOSES.”</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Plaisance. The walls are hung with the wealth of the East. Divans are
-scattered about. On a low table, octagon-shaped and inlaid with
-mother-of-pearl and ivory, lie yataghans and Turkish arms, embossed with
-silver and enriched with quaint design. The light struggles in through
-the small<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span> windows and half defines the odd interior, quite as it does
-in his shop along the Bosphorus. I throw myself upon a pile of Eastern
-rugs and begin adjusting the pillows in true Oriental fashion.</p>
-
-<p>The old man claps his hands, and instantly, as if rising through the rug
-itself, an attendant appears, receives an order in Turkish, and
-vanishes. Not a gentleman, if you please, in a soiled necktie, frayed
-shirt-front, and hired-by-the-month swallow-tail coat, but a swarthy
-Turk in gold-embroidered vest and the rest of it, who reappears in a
-flash with one of those exquisite squatty little tables that might serve
-in a baby house. Then more clapping of hands, and more Turks, one a
-gorgeous fellow in a solid gold jacket (the light is dim), under-vest of
-purple and silver, sash brilliant scarlet, and so on, down to his
-magnificent slippers of red morocco, very much turned up at the toes.
-And then an inlaid tray with two dainty little cups, mere thimbles, into
-which is poured from a long-handled brass pot, sizzling hot over a
-charcoal fire, two mouthfuls of fragrant Mocha. Then the Narghilehs,
-with their long flexible tubes, amber mouth-pieces, and the bits of
-burning coal, keeping alight the little heap of Turkish tobacco on the
-top of the slender caraffe-shaped glass.</p>
-
-<p>We talk of the old days in Stamboul and of the morning we spent at the
-Bath, where I was par<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span>boiled and rubbed full of holes by two
-insufficiently clad Greeks; and then of the festival night at Saint
-Sophia when, as a member of his household, I entered the Sacred Mosque
-barefooted and befezzed. Later on a lighted lantern is brought in, and
-we follow another gorgeous slave into the mysteries of my host’s private
-apartments where a repast of kebabs and boiled rice is served.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 232px;"><a name="ill_41" id="ill_41"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_116_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_116_sml.jpg" width="232" height="192" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>DOORWAY OF THE TRANSPORTATION BUILDING.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>After dinner other lights are fixed against the walls of an outer court,
-and a dozen or more of his retinue&mdash;Far-away and his <i>confrère</i>, Roberto
-Levy, count five hundred and fifty followers&mdash;with weird song and
-gesture, throw themselves with perfect abandon into one of their wild
-native dances.</p>
-
-<p>This small army of the Faithful eat, sleep, and dress precisely as they
-do at home. The Bedouin women huddle in the dust outside their tents,
-baking their wafer-like bread over rounded pans covering heaps of live
-coals; the men smoke and lounge on the mats; the dancing-girls from
-Damascus and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span> Syria, in the intervals of their stage work, shut
-themselves up in their curtain-closed rooms, attended only by their
-women.</p>
-
-<p>They allow no difference in their surroundings or atmosphere; there is
-no hurry nor rush nor noise; only the indolent, lazy life of the East.
-Had the genie of the lamp been summoned from space to work these
-marvellous effects it could not have been better done.</p>
-
-<p>But the picturesque does not end with the Turkish village, its mosques,
-bazaars, café, theatre, and attendants. Enter the gates leading to the
-little toy houses of the Javanese, and stop for a moment at one of the
-doors. Half a dozen of the dancing-girls are cuddled together in the
-middle of the floor. There is no light except through the open door.
-Some are smoking cigarettes. One is painting the eyebrows of a comrade,
-who in turn is combing the other’s hair. Two are stretched out on either
-side of the entrance lolling lazily. They smile courteously, and when
-one rises and trips away to the next miniature house, she drops you a
-slight deferential courtesy as she passes&mdash;not to attract your
-attention, but as challenging permission&mdash;to cross in front of you.</p>
-
-<p>If you, an admirer of Western civilization, offer some one of its
-subjects a piece of silver, you receive either the customary gruff
-thanks or the incredulous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span> stare. If you have doubts about the courtesy,
-the refinement, and the charm of the semi-barbarous East, try the same
-experiment on one of these little Javanese maidens, fully of age and yet
-hardly as tall as the curly haired daughter that you hold in your arms.
-When you tender her the coin she walks to where you stand without the
-slightest trace of either forwardness or timidity, drops on one
-knee&mdash;clasping the money in her right hand&mdash;crosses both arms over her
-bosom, places the piece on her head, and then bowing low, her face
-toward you, retraces her steps into the bungalow. With each gesture she
-intends some graceful service&mdash;she is your slave&mdash;her heart is always
-true, her head in subjection. It is only her way of saying thank
-you&mdash;this poor little half-clad, half-civilized, Javanese maid; but it
-is so gracefully, so charmingly done, it is so naïve and sincere, that
-if you leave the door of her hut with a cent in your pocket you should
-be sentenced to spend a month in her village to learn better manners.</p>
-
-<p>As you are still in search of the picturesque, follow that barefooted
-Arab with fez and long yellow gown, who has just saluted with such
-respect and humility Roberto Levy (chief commissioner of all these
-Muhammedan people), touching his heart and lips and forehead after the
-manner of his race. He has some complaint to make or grievance to right.
-You note that the man enters a gate farther down<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;"><a name="ill_42" id="ill_42"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_119_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_119_sml.jpg" width="369" height="591" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>IN CAIRO STREET.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<p class="nind">on the Plaisance, above which you catch the minaret of another mosque,
-overlooking “A Street in Cairo.” Later on you discover that this
-barefooted Arab drives a camel along this tortuous thoroughfare.</p>
-
-<p>Here again the quality of the picturesque is inseparably joined to the
-quality of the genuine. The street itself is a fair reproduction of the
-original, with its overhanging latticed windows, iron gratings and
-decorations; but the motley crowd that throngs through its crookedness
-is the native element itself. Camels with the dust of the desert ground
-into their scarred hides, every knot in the harness a guarantee of long
-service; donkeys and donkey boys; women closely veiled or wearing the
-<i>burgi</i>&mdash;a wooden spool bound over the nose, with a heavy fringe of
-black thread falling below the chin; rows of idlers in dirty garments
-sprawled along the edges of the houses hugging the shade; Nubians, black
-as ink, in white burnoose and long gowns; pedlers, street venders in odd
-Eastern costumes, and scattered throughout the curious throng the man
-from Maine and the gentleman from Texas.</p>
-
-<p>Everywhere you find the same element of the picturesque, everywhere is
-evident the same quality of the genuine. To accomplish these results
-space and time seem to have been annihilated.</p>
-
-<p>“It is I who went up into the Soudan country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span> and brought out this
-family, come in and see,” says a dark, black-bearded man, who might have
-the blood of all the races of the East in his veins.</p>
-
-<p>I thrust my head and shoulder through a narrow slit in the hut, shaped
-like an inverted teacup, and am confronted by a girl wearing a single
-garment of coarse cotton cloth, such as would cover a sack of salt.
-Behind her, squatting on the earth-floor, sit her husband and father,
-beating rude drums covered with skins. The girl instantly advances,
-lifts up her face and gazing into mine with half-closed eyes, gives
-herself up with slow movement of her feet to that peculiar spell which
-seems to possess all Eastern women when under the influence of the
-dance. The inmates are all uncleanly, unkempt, and, but for the earnest
-face and fawn-like eyes of the Soudanese girl-wife, forbidding and
-repulsive. Of one thing, however, you are sure: had you wandered into
-the heart of their country and entered any one of their huts, you would
-have found the exact counterpart of what is before you now.</p>
-
-<p>So with the Algerians and Nubians, the Chinese and natives of Ceylon,
-Dahomey and the South Sea Islands, the Esquimaux even down to the
-glass-blowers from Murano: they are not a part of a show&mdash;they are the
-people themselves. How long this unconscious individuality will continue
-and what degrading effects our civilization will produce on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span> these
-strangers is a question which cannot be settled until the Fair is over.</p>
-
-<p>It is safe to say that never in the lives of the present generation will
-these things be repeated. Before the summer comes again the beautiful
-city will fade away like the frost-work of an early morning. This broad
-highway, teeming with life and color, will be but a neglected waste,
-while the lovely lagoons will once more yield themselves up to the
-ever-encroaching lake. Every square foot of the wide inclosure should be
-sacred to every American, as marking for them and for the intelligent
-world a point in civilization never before reached by any people; as
-marking the dawn of a new era in the progress of the Republic; a new
-light in architecture, in mural decoration and sculpture; in the weaving
-of exquisite stuffs, in the glazing of porcelains, the making of glass
-and perfecting of all the lesser arts that serve to beautify our homes
-and gladden our lives; and in the proving, by comparison with the best
-work of the other nations of earth, the high standard reached by our own
-artists, and the fixing forever of that position in the art of the
-world.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 210px;"><a name="ill_43" id="ill_43"></a>
-<a href="images/ill_pg_124_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_124_sml.jpg" width="210" height="139" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Artists at the Fair, by
-Frank D. Millet, J. A. Mitchell, Will H. Low, W. Hamilton Gibson and F. Hopkinson Smith
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