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diff --git a/old/61778-0.txt b/old/61778-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3a0356e..0000000 --- a/old/61778-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10084 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825, Vol. -II, by A. Levasseur - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825, Vol. II - or Journal of a Voyage to the United States - -Author: A. Levasseur - -Release Date: April 8, 2020 [EBook #61778] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LAFAYETTE IN AMERICA, 1824-1825, VOL 2 *** - - - - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, Brian Wilson, MFR, and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net -(This book was produced from scanned images of public -domain material from the Google Books project.) - - - - - - - - - - LAFAYETTE IN AMERICA - IN 1824 AND 1825; - OR, - JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE - TO THE - UNITED STATES: - - BY A. LEVASSEUR, - - SECRETARY TO GENERAL LAFAYETTE DURING HIS JOURNEY. - - - VOL. II. - - - PHILADELPHIA: - - CAREY AND LEA. - - - 1829. - - - - - Eastern District of Pennsylvania, to wit: - - Be it remembered, That on the sixth day of November, in the - fifty-fourth year of the independence of the United States of - America, A. D. 1829, Carey and Lea, of the said district, have - deposited in this Office the title of a Book, the right whereof they - claim as proprietors in the words following, to wit: - - “Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825; or Journal of a Voyage to - the United States: by A. Levasseur, Secretary to General Lafayette - during his journey. Translated by John D. Godman, M. D.” - - In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, - entitled “An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the - copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of - such copies during the times therein mentioned.” And also to the - act, entitled, “An act supplementary to an act, entitled, ‘An act - for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of the - maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such - copies during the times therein mentioned,’ and extending the - benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching - historical and other prints.” - - (Signed) D. CALDWELL, - _Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania_. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - P. - - Maryland Cattle Show—Indian Deputation introduced to Gen. - Lafayette—President’s Message—Extraordinary honours paid to the - Nation’s Guest—National recompense presented by Congress 9 - - - CHAPTER II. - - Election of the President—Public character of the President—Public - Officers—Congress—Grand public dinner on the 1st of January 22 - - - CHAPTER III. - - Departure from Washington—American Feelings—Sea-Lion—Family of Free - Negroes—Raleigh—Fayetteville—North Carolina 29 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Entrance into South Carolina—Route from Cheraw to Cambden—Monument - erected to Baron de Kalb—Road from Cambden to - Charleston—Rejoicing in Charleston—Colonel Huger—History, - Institutions, and Manners, of the South Carolinians 38 - - - CHAPTER V. - - Fort Moultrie—Edisto Island—Alligators—Savannah—Funeral - Monuments—Augusta—State of Georgia 55 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Departure from Milledgeville—Macon—Indian Agency—Meeting with - Indians during a Storm—Hamley—M’Intosh’s Tribe—Uchee Creek—Big - Warrior—Captain Lewis—Line Creek—Montgomery—Farewell of - M’Intosh—Cahawba-State of Alabama—Mobile 70 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Departure from Mobile—Gulf of Mexico—Passage of the Belize—Landing - at the entrenchments near New Orleans—Entrance into the - city—Entertainments and public Ceremonies—Battle of New Orleans 87 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - History and Constitution of Louisiana—Baton-Rouge—Natchez—State of - Mississippi—Voyage to St. Louis—Reception of General Lafayette in - that city 102 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Changes produced in the navigation of the Mississippi since the - introduction of Steam—Arrival at Kaskaskia—The Canadians and - Indians—Singular meeting with a young Indian educated among the - Whites, and returned to savage life—Indian Ballad—State of - Illinois—Departure from Kaskaskia—Separation of General Lafayette - and the Louisiana deputation 129 - - CHAPTER X. - - Cumberland River—Arrival at Nashville—Tennessee Militia—Residence - of General Jackson—Shipwreck on the Ohio—Louisville—Journey from - Louisville to Cincinnati by land—State of Kentucky—Anecdote 150 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - Arrival at Cincinnati—Entertainments given by that city—Swiss of - Vevay—State of Ohio—The Vinton family—Journey from Wheeling to - Uniontown—Speech of Mr. Gallatin—New Geneva—Braddock’s - field—General Washington’s first feat of arms—Pittsburgh 172 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Route from Pittsburg to Erie—Commodore Perry’s Victory—Night Scene - at Fredonia—The Indian Chief at Buffalo—Falls of Niagara—Visit to - Fort Niagara—Appearance of Lockport—Passage from Lockport to - Rochester—Aqueduct over the Genessee River—Route by land from - Rochester to Syracuse—Passage from Syracuse to Schenectady, Rome, - and Utica—Grand Canal 184 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Return to Boston—Reception of Lafayette by the Legislature of - Massachusetts—Celebration of the anniversary of Bunker’s - hill—History of the Revolution familiar to the - Americans—Departure from Boston 200 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Rapid and hasty visit to the states of New Hampshire, Maine, and - Vermont—Return to New York—Celebration of the Anniversary of - American Independence—American vessels of war—Patriotism and - disinterestedness of the Seamen of New York 208 - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Letter of Mr. Keratry on the Anniversary of Bunker’s hill—Fair - Mount Water Works at Philadelphia—Germantown—Mr. Watson’s - Historical Box—Field of the Battle of Brandywine—Invocation of - the Rev. William Latta—Clergy of Lancaster—Return to Baltimore, - lighted by a fire 223 - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - Return to Washington—Character of the new President—Visit to the - ex-president, become a farmer and justice of the peace—Government - offers Lafayette a ship of war to return in to France—Presents - made to Bolivar through Lafayette—New homage from the city of New - York—Farewell of the President to the Nation’s Guest—Departure - from Washington city—Embarkation in the - Brandywine—Voyage—Testimonies of attachment and regret of the - crew of the Brandywine to Lafayette—Reception at Havre—some hours - at Rouen—Reception of Lafayette at La Grange by the inhabitants - of his vicinity 241 - - - - - LAFAYETTE IN AMERICA. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - Maryland Cattle Show—Indian Deputation introduced to Gen. - Lafayette—President’s Message—Extraordinary honours paid to the - Nation’s Guest—National recompense presented by Congress. - - -On arriving at Washington, we went to dine with the president; and after -reposing for twenty-four hours, we set out for Baltimore, where we were -invited as members of the Agricultural Society to the annual meeting of -the farmers of Maryland. The object of this society is the distribution -of rewards and encouragements to all, who in the course of the year have -made improvements in agriculture, or the arts of domestic utility. The -different products are exhibited, without the names of their owners, and -examined by a committee, upon whose report the society awards the -prizes. The show appeared to be rich in products of every description. A -great number of horses, cows, and sheep, remarkable for their beauty of -form, proved how careful the Maryland farmers are in improving their -stock. Models of agricultural implements, linen, cotton, canvass and -woollen cloths, wines and grain, so arranged, as to be open to public -examination, attested the spirit of investigation and improvement which -pervades the industrious class of this rich state. General Harper opened -the meeting by a very instructive discourse upon the progress and actual -condition of agriculture in Maryland, and General Lafayette was charged -with the distribution of the premiums. After these were delivered, the -farmers were arranged in two lines, and General Lafayette passed between -them, shaking hands with every one. We then gaily seated ourselves at -table, where numerous toasts were drank, “to the nation’s guest,” “the -farmer of La Grange,” &c. To these tributes of respect, the general -replied by the following toast: “The seed of American liberty -transplanted to other shores, smothered hitherto, but not destroyed by -European weeds; may it germinate and grow afresh, more pure and -vigorous, and cover the soil of both hemispheres.” - -Before leaving Baltimore we visited several farms in the vicinity, at -each of which General Lafayette took accurate notes of various -improvements, whose application he thought would prove useful on his -farm at La Grange. He especially admired a fine steam boiler,[1] at -General Harper’s farm, by which numerous flocks could be more abundantly -and economically fed. Mr. Patterson presented him a young bull and two -heifers of rare elegance of form, said to be of the English Devonshire -breed. We also received from several other agriculturists, wild turkeys -for the improvement of the European breed, pigs of singular size, -figure, &c.; in short, every one wished to present some of his produce -to the farmer of La Grange, who accepted them the more gratefully, -because he saw in each of these presents means of rendering service to -French agriculture. - -On returning to Washington, we found the city much more animated than -before our departure. The number of strangers and citizens from all -parts of the Union, which usually assemble at the opening of congress, -were collected this season in much greater crowds, attracted by the wish -of being there at the same time with the nation’s guest, and to witness -the inauguration of the recently elected president. The European -ambassadors and ministers of the new states of South America, had -returned to their posts, which they left during the fine season; Indian -deputations had also arrived from the most distant forests, to make -known the wants of their brethren to the American government. These -deputations came to visit General Lafayette the morning after our -return; they were introduced by Major Pitchlynn, their interpreter; at -their head were two chiefs whom we had previously seen at Mr. -Jefferson’s table during our visit to Monticello. I recognised them by -their ears cut into long straps and garnished with long plates of lead. -One of them, named Mushulatubbee, made an address to General Lafayette -in the Indian language; after he had concluded, Pushalamata, the first -of their chiefs, also addressed the general, congratulating him on his -return to the land for which he had fought and bled in his youth, &c. -This chief expired a few days afterwards: feeling the approach of death, -he called his companions around him, requested them to dress him in his -est ornaments and give him his arms, that he might die like a man. He -expressed a desire that the Americans would bury him with the honours of -war, and fire a salute over his grave, which was promised. He then -conversed with his friends until he gently expired. He was very old and -of the Choctaw tribe, as well as part of those who came to see General -Lafayette; the rest were Chickasaws. - -On his return to Washington, the general found messages from all the -southern and western states, expressing the desire and hope of the -people of those parts of the Union that he would visit them: the -representatives of the different states who had come to sit in congress, -daily came to see him, and spoke with enthusiasm of the preparations -which their fellow citizens were already making to receive the nation’s -guest. - -He felt that it would be difficult, not to say impossible, to refuse -invitations so feelingly and honourably expressed, and determined to -accept them all; but on account of the advanced state of the season he -could not re-commence his journey till the end of the winter; during -part of which he would remain at Washington, where he could attend to -the debates in congress. As these debates would not begin for some days, -he determined to profit by the intervening time to visit all the members -of General Washington’s family, residing in the vicinity of the capital. -We first went to the house of one of his nieces, Mrs. Lewis, at Wood -Lawn; this lady was brought up at Mount Vernon with Mr. George -Lafayette, and time had not destroyed the fraternal friendship existing -between them. She received us with great kindness, as did her husband -and family. We remained four days at Wood Lawn, receiving the most -delicate attentions, and departed charged with little presents, of great -value to us, because they were almost all objects which had belonged to -the hero of liberty, the immortal Washington. - -As Wood Lawn is but a division of the ancient property of Mount Vernon, -we had but a short walk to Judge Bushrod Washington’s. We then revisited -Arlington, the residence of Mr. Custis, of whom I have heretofore had -occasion to speak. His house, built according to reduced plans of the -temple of Theseus, stands upon one of the most beautiful situations -imaginable; from the portico the eye takes in, at one view, the majestic -course of the Potomac, the commercial movements of Georgetown, the -rising city of Washington, and far beyond the vast horizon, beneath -which lie the fertile plains of Maryland. If Mr. Custis, instead of the -great number of indolent slaves, who devour his produce, and leave his -roads in a bad condition, would employ a dozen well paid free labourers, -I am sure that he would soon triple his revenues, and have one of the -most delightful properties, not only of the District of Columbia, but of -all Virginia. - -While General Lafayette was visiting his friends, congress commenced its -session on the 6th of December, according to custom. The president’s -message was received by both houses on the 7th at noon; and, on our -return to Washington on the 8th, we read this political paper, always so -important in the United States, but still more interesting this year, -because it was the last great administrative act of an honest man; and -its influence, perhaps, saved the republics of South America, I do not -say from the intrigues, but at least from the attacks of Europe. Those -who wish to learn how, in a legitimate government, the chief magistrate -elected by the people renders an account of the sacred trust they have -confided to him, should read Mr. Monroe’s message of the 6th December, -1824. They will there see with what candour this wise magistrate informs -congress of all the acts of his administration, with what simplicity he -speaks of his treaties with all the kings of Europe; with what frankness -he exposes the wants, the resources, the situation of the state; but -also with what courage and dignity he declares to the whole world that -the republic, faithful to its engagements, will regard as a personal -offence all attacks directed against its allies, and will always repel, -with its whole power, the unjust principle of foreign interference in -the affairs of the nation. - -After the reading of the message committees were immediately appointed -by both houses upon the various articles it contained. The committee -charged with what related to the general, was requested to report with -as little delay as possible. Other committees were appointed to arrange -the ceremonial of the general’s public reception by congress; and, on -the 8th of December the joint committee reported by Mr. Barbour to the -house of representatives, that, in order to avoid difficulties, each -house of congress should separately receive the nation’s guest. The -senate then determined upon the manner in which General Lafayette should -be received, and the committee was authorized to act as intermediary to -the senate and him. - -On the 9th Mr. Mitchell, in the name of the committees, proposed -resolutions, which were unanimously adopted, that General Lafayette -should be publicly gratulated by the house of representatives on account -of his accepting the invitation of congress, and assured of the profound -respect felt for his eminent services during the revolution, as well as -of the pleasure caused by his return, after so long an absence, to the -theatre of his exploits. - -As soon as these resolutions were made known, the troops wished to -parade, to give the reception of the nation’s guest by congress all the -brilliance of military pomp; but General Lafayette, having learned their -intention, requested them to relinquish it, as he considered it -inconsistent, both with his character and situation, to appear before -the national representatives surrounded by the pomp of arms; the troops, -always delighted to do what was most agreeable to him, immediately laid -aside their project. At half past twelve we went in carriages with the -committee of the senate to the capitol; at ten o’clock precisely the -doors of the senate were thrown open, and General Lafayette was led into -the midst of the assembly by Mr. Barbour, president of the committee. On -arriving at the centre of the hall, Mr. Barbour said, in a loud voice, -“We introduce General Lafayette to the senate of the United States.” The -senators standing uncovered received this annunciation with the most -profound silence. The committee then conducted the general to a seat on -the right of Mr. Gailliard, president of the senate; a motion to adjourn -was made immediately after, that each senator might individually pay his -respects to the general. This motion being carried, the senators -successively left their seats, and approached him for that purpose. Thus -terminated the business of the day. - -The next morning, the general was again conducted to the capitol, by a -deputation of twenty-four members of the house of representatives. The -procession consisted of merely twelve coaches, but without escort, pomp, -or decorations; our progress through the city was slow and silent. At -the sight of the first coach, which contained the general, the citizens -halted, removed their hats, but uttered no exclamation. This silence, -this simplicity, was really impressive. We were conducted into the -committee room until the session commenced; the public galleries were -crowded from early in the morning; the seats were occupied by foreign -diplomatists and most distinguished persons of the city. That part of -the hall which is not occupied by the representatives, was, on this -occasion, alone filled by ladies. - -When the members had taken their seats, Mr. Condict proposed that the -senate should be invited to attend, and the motion was carried by a -large majority. The speaker then requested the members to pass to the -right, in order to give place to the senators. The senate then entered -and took their seats; a few minutes after, two members came for Mr. -George Lafayette and myself, and conducted us into the hall, to a seat -occupied by the public officers. A signal being then given, the doors -were thrown open, and General Lafayette entered between Messrs. Mitchell -and Livingston, followed by the rest of the deputation: the whole -assembly arose and stood uncovered in silence. When the general reached -the centre of the hall, the speaker, Mr. Clay, thus addressed him: - -“_General_—The house of representatives of the United States, impelled -alike by its own feelings, and by those of the whole American people, -could not have assigned to me a more gratifying duty, than that of -presenting to you cordial congratulations upon the occasion of your -recent arrival in the United States, in compliance with the wishes of -congress, and to assure you of the very high satisfaction which your -presence affords on this early theatre of your glory and renown. -Although but few of the members who compose this body shared with you in -the war of our revolution, all have, from impartial history or from -faithful tradition, a knowledge of the perils, the sufferings, and the -sacrifices which you voluntarily encountered, and the signal services, -in America and in Europe, which you performed for an infant, a distant, -and an alien people; and all feel and own the very great extent of the -obligations under which you have placed our country. But the relations -in which you have ever stood to the United States, interesting and -important as they have been, do not constitute the only motive of the -respect and admiration which the house of representatives entertain for -you. Your consistency of character, your uniform devotion to regulated -liberty, in all the vicissitudes of a long and arduous life, also -commands its admiration. During all the recent convulsions of Europe, -amidst, as after the dispersion of, every political storm, the people of -the United States have beheld you, true to your old principles, firm and -erect, cheering and animating, with your well known voice, the votaries -of liberty, its faithful and fearless champion, ready to shed the last -drop of that blood which here you so freely and nobly spilt, in the same -holy cause. - -“The vain wish has been sometimes indulged, that Providence would allow -the patriot, after death, to return to his country, and to contemplate -the intermediate changes which had taken place—to view the forests -felled, the cities built, the mountains levelled, the canals cut, the -highways constructed, the progress of the arts, the advancement of -learning, and the increase of population—General, your present visit to -the United States is a realization of the consoling object of that wish. -You are in the midst of posterity. Every where, you must have been -struck with the great changes, physical and moral, which have occurred -since you left us. Even this very city, bearing a venerated name, alike -endeared to you and to us, has since emerged from the forest which then -covered its site. In one respect, you behold us unaltered, and this is -in the sentiment of continued devotion to liberty, and of ardent -affection and profound gratitude to your departed friend, the father of -his country, and to you, and to your illustrious associates in the field -and in the cabinet, for the multiplied blessings which surround us, and -for the very privilege of addressing you, which I now exercise. This -sentiment, now fondly cherished by more than ten millions of people, -will be transmitted, with unabated vigour, down the tide of time, -through the countless millions who are destined to inhabit this -continent, to the latest posterity.” - -The profound emotion experienced by the speaker, which had visibly -agitated him throughout his address, rapidly extended to the hearts of -the auditors, each of whom waited, with benevolent anxiety, for the -answer they expected the general would have ready in writing, for so -solemn an occasion. But every one was agreeably surprised, to see him -advance a few steps towards the speaker, cast upon the assembly looks of -feeling and gratitude, and, after a few instants of recollection, -deliver, in a sonorous voice, distinctly audible throughout the house, -the following extempore reply: - -“_Mr. Speaker and Gentlemen of the House of Representatives_—While the -people of the United States, and their honourable representatives in -congress, have deigned to make choice of me, one of the American -veterans, to signify, in his person, their esteem for our joint -services, and their attachment to the principles for which we have had -the honour to fight and bleed, I am proud and happy to share those -extraordinary favours with my dear revolutionary companions; yet it -would be, on my part, uncandid and ungrateful, not to acknowledge my -personal share in those testimonies of kindness, as they excite in my -breast emotions which no words are adequate to express. - -“My obligations to the United States, sir, far exceed any merit I might -claim; they date from the time when I have had the happiness to be -adopted as a young soldier, a favoured son of America; they have been -continued to me during almost a half a century of constant affection and -confidence; and now, sir, thanks to your most gratifying invitation, I -find myself greeted by a series of welcomes, one hour of which would -more than compensate for the public exertions and sufferings of a whole -life. - -“The approbation of the American people, and their representatives, for -my conduct, during the vicissitudes of the European revolution, is the -highest reward I could receive. Well may I _stand firm and erect_, when, -in their names, and by you, Mr. Speaker, I am declared to have, in every -instance, been faithful to those American principles of liberty, -equality, and true social order, the devotion to which, as it has been -from my earliest youth, so it shall continue to be to my latest breath. - -“You have been pleased, Mr. Speaker, to allude to the peculiar felicity -of my situation, when, after so long an absence, I am called to witness -the immense improvements, the admirable communications, the prodigious -creations, of which we find an example in this city, whose name itself -is a venerated palladium; in a word, all the grandeur and prosperity of -those happy United States, who, at the same time they nobly secure the -complete assertion of American independence, reflect, on every part of -the world, the light of a far superior political civilization. - -“What better pledge can be given, of a persevering, national love of -liberty, when these blessings are evidently the result of a virtuous -resistance to oppression, and institutions founded on the rights of man, -and the republican principle of self-government? - -“No, Mr. Speaker, posterity has not begun for me, since, in the sons of -my companions and friends, I find the same public feelings; and, permit -me to add, the same feelings in my behalf, which I have had the -happiness to experience in their fathers. - -“Sir, I have been allowed, forty years ago, before a committee of a -congress of thirteen states, to express the fond wishes of an American -heart; on this day, I have the honour and enjoy the delight, to -congratulate the representatives of the Union, so vastly enlarged, on -the realization of those wishes, even beyond every human expectation, -and upon the almost infinite prospects we can with certainty anticipate; -permit me, Mr. Speaker and gentlemen of the house of representatives, to -join to the expression of those sentiments, a tribute of my lively -gratitude, affectionate devotion, and profound respect.” - -I will not attempt to depict the deep impression produced by the reply -of the general, and by this simple yet majestic scene on the spectators. -I fear that it would be understood but by few. As regards my own -feelings, I frankly avow, that I could not avoid drawing a comparison -between this touching picture of national gratitude crowning the civic -virtues, with those pompous ceremonies, in the midst of which the -monarchs of Europe deign to show themselves, surrounded with the glitter -of arms and the splendour of dress: the latter appeared to me only -similar to some brilliant theatrical representation, which it would be -gratifying to behold, if we could forget that they but add to the misery -of the people. - -After these testimonies of devotion and feeling, hitherto unknown in the -history of nations, thus tendered by congress to General Lafayette, it -might have been supposed, that all marks of national gratitude were -exhausted. But, in compliance with the message of the president, and -above all, with the expression of public opinion which was daily -manifested in the public prints and in private letters addressed from -all parts of the Union to the members, congress still conceived that -more remained to be done, and hastened to appoint a committee to devise -a mode of presenting to General Lafayette a recompense worthy of the -nation which tendered it. This committee reported a bill on the 20th of -December, in which, after detailing the services rendered by Lafayette -to the American nation, and the sacrifices he had made in the -achievement of its independence, they proposed that the sum of 200,000 -dollars, and the fee simple of a tract of land of 24,000 acres, to be -chosen in the most fertile part of the United States, should be offered -as a compensation and testimony of gratitude. This proposition was -received with enthusiasm by the senate, and it was believed that it -would pass without discussion, when at the moment it was about to be -sent to the house of representatives, a senator observed, “that he had -no objections to make either to the sum about to be voted, or to the -services for which it was given; that he yielded to no one in gratitude -and friendship towards General Lafayette, whose virtues and services, he -believed, could not be too highly recompensed; but thought that the -proposed method was defective; that charged with the administration of -the public revenues, he did not believe that congress was permitted to -dispose of them otherwise than for the public service; he thought that -each state might claim with justice, a right to testify its gratitude to -Lafayette; finally, that he voted against the consideration of the -proposition, to avoid establishing a precedent, the consequences of -which might hereafter be fatal.” - -The eloquence of Mr. Hayne easily triumphed over this opposition, -arising from a scrupulous attention and care of the public finances, and -the bill having been a third time read, was almost unanimously adopted. -Seven votes only were in the negative; and it was universally known that -even those who opposed the bill, were among the warmest friends and -partizans of the general. Motives of public expediency, and, with some, -the habit of opposing every novel measure of finance, were the only -reasons for their course of conduct. - -The proposition was received with equal warmth and good will in the -house of representatives. As soon as the committee presented their -report, all other business was postponed, and the consideration of the -bill commenced. The discussion that ensued, as in the senate, fully -recognized the rights of the general to national gratitude, and only -turned on the legality of the proposed plan. After the third reading the -bill was passed by an overwhelming majority. - -During these discussions in congress, General Lafayette, who was wholly -ignorant of their existence, was at Annapolis, whither he had been -invited by the legislature of Maryland. It was not until the day after -his return to Washington, that the two committees of the senate and the -house of representatives waited on him, to acquaint him with the -resolutions of congress. - -Mr. Smith, the chairman, presented him the act, and observed that the -congress of the United States, fully appreciating the great sacrifices -made by the general in the cause of American Independence, had taken -that opportunity of repaying a part of the vast debt owed to him by the -country. - -General Lafayette was greatly embarrassed on hearing this munificence of -congress towards him. He was at first tempted to refuse it, as he -thought the proofs of affection and popular gratitude which he had -received from the moment of his arrival in the United States, were a -sufficient recompense for all his services, and he had never desired any -other. But he nevertheless felt, from the manner in which this offer was -made, that he could not refuse it without offending the American nation, -through its representatives, and he therefore immediately decided upon -accepting it. He replied to the committee with his usual promptness and -feeling, assuring them of the deep gratitude he felt, as an American -soldier, and as an adopted son of the country, for this as well as other -marks of affection that had been bestowed upon him. - -This act of congress was soon spread, by means of the public journals, -through all parts of the Union, and was every where received with -unanimous approbation. Some states even wished to make an addition to -these grants of congress. Thus, for example, Virginia, New York, and -Maryland, were desirous to heap additional favours on the guest of the -nation. It required all the determined moderation of the general to -repress this excess of gratitude, which would have ended in placing at -his disposal all the funds of the United States; for if the states had -once engaged in this struggle of generosity, it is difficult to say -where it would have ended. - -Nevertheless, the newspapers, the organs of public opinion, in -applauding these acts of congress, attacked, with a severity which -distressed General Lafayette, those few members of the senate and house -of representatives, who had voted against the national donation. These -attacks, in fact, were the more unjust; for, as I have already said, the -majority of the opponents of the measure were personal friends of the -general, and wholly devoted to his interests; but in voting, not against -the proposition, but against its form, they remained faithful to a -principle they had always adopted, of not disposing of the public funds -for other purposes than those of the public service. Some of them deemed -it proper to explain this to the general. “Not only,” said they, “do we -partake of the gratitude and admiration of our fellow citizens towards -you for the services you have rendered us, but we also think that the -nation can never repay them, and yet twenty-six of us voted against the -proposition in congress.” “Well,” replied the general, in taking them -cordially by the hand, “I can assure you, that if I had had the honour -of being your colleague, we should have been twenty-seven, not only -because I partake of the sentiments which determined your votes, but -also because I think that the American nation has done too much for me.” -This reply soon appeared in all the journals, and, as may be supposed, -only added to the popularity of him who made it. - -I have already observed that during the deliberations of congress, -General Lafayette had accepted the invitation of the legislature of -Maryland, who also wished to bestow on him the honour of a public -reception. We left Washington on the 16th of December, accompanied by -Dr. Kent, Mr. Mitchell, members of the house of representatives from -Maryland, and a detachment of volunteer cavalry. On our route, we -visited the family and beautiful farm of Capt. Sprigg, ex-governor of -Maryland, and arrived at Annapolis in the afternoon. The deputies of the -city met the general at a great distance from it, notwithstanding the -badness of the weather, and the troops had advanced as far as Miller’s -Hill. Another corps of militia had marched from Nottingham, which is -thirty miles from Annapolis. The storm had retarded its arrival, but had -not damped the zeal of the citizens. At Carrol’s Lane, about two miles -from the city, the general, notwithstanding the remonstrances that were -made, descended from the carriage, and with his head uncovered, returned -thanks to the troops for the affection they testified towards him. “They -have exposed themselves to the severity of the weather on my account, -and I cannot permit it to deter me from returning them my thanks,” -observed he. At the limits of the district an interesting meeting took -place between him and some soldiers of the revolutionary army, several -of whom had assisted in carrying him from the field of battle at -Brandywine, where he had been wounded. Twenty-four discharges of cannon, -and the display of the national flag on the state house, announced his -arrival in the city. - -Conducted into the hall of the legislature, which was filled with -persons of distinction and soldiers of the revolution, he was led to a -seat, where he listened to a discourse from the mayor in the name of the -city. In his reply, he alluded to the fact, that Annapolis had been the -scene of events for ever memorable in the annals of the United States; -it was within its walls that Washington had laid down a power conferred -on him by the nation; and the inhabitants of that city had always been -worthy, by their patriotism, of being the witnesses and participators of -this noble act. - -The next day, Friday, 17th December, the militia of the county, the -volunteer battalion of Annapolis, and the United States artillery were -reviewed by him, displaying great discipline and soldierly precision in -their manœuvres. - -The following Monday, he received from the legislature of the state, a -repetition of the same honours bestowed on him a few days previous by -the congress of the United States. The day terminated by a public -dinner, at which all the senators and representatives were present, and -by a ball given by the mayor of the city. - -Annapolis is a city of about 2500 inhabitants, handsomely situated on -the river Severn, which empties into the Chesapeake Bay. It is the seat -of government of the state of Maryland, but will never become an -important place, at least from its commerce, which is wholly absorbed by -the port of Baltimore. - -In returning to Washington, we went by Fredericktown, where the general -was received with enthusiasm by the population, and by a great number of -his former companions in arms, among whom he recognized Colonel -M‘Pherson, with whom we lodged. At the public banquet given him by the -town, the table was lighted by a candelabra supporting an immense -quantity of candles, the base of which was an enormous fragment of a -bomb shell used at the siege of Yorktown. - -Fredericktown is, next to Baltimore, the largest city in Maryland. It is -situated in the heart of a fertile country, on the west bank of a small -stream called the Monocacy. Its population, which does not amount to -more than 3000, are generally engaged in manufactures. - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - Election of the President—Public character of the President—Public - officers—Congress—Grand public dinner on the 1st of January. - - -When we landed at New York, in the month of August, the people of the -United States were occupied in the choice of a new political chief. This -choice takes place every four years. It is always accompanied with much -popular excitement, which may be readily conceived, as it equally -interests every individual. Nevertheless, this excitement does not -occasion any tumults. Since the adoption of the constitution, the nation -has at nine different times elected a president, and always without the -occurrence of any serious disturbance. The public prints, it is true, as -organs of the opposing parties, become arsenals in which arms of all -description and temper may be found, and which are oftentimes made use -of in any thing but a courteous manner; but the exaggeration and -violence of these journals are productive of no evil consequences, and -never excite the people to transgress the laws. - -The election of 1824 has, in common with the nine preceding, completely -baffled the penetration of European politicians, who, with an assurance -founded on ignorance and duplicity, predicted that the constitution of -the United States was about to experience a shock, which it was -impossible it could sustain, and that from the bosom of the turbulent -democracy of America, would arise civil war and an overthrow of all -civil order. These predictions were founded on the circumstance of the -American nation having, until the present time, been able to restrict -its choice to a few individuals, rendered dear to their country by their -revolutionary services, whilst now it found itself obliged to enter on -another list, and, consequently, to open the door to the ambitious and -designing. - -It was during the height of the excitement produced by the discussion of -the presidential question that General Lafayette appeared on the -American shores. This event, as if by enchantment, paralyzed all the -electoral ardour. The newspapers, which, the evening before, were -furiously combating for their favourite candidate, now closed their long -columns on all party disputes, and only gave admission to the unanimous -expression of the public joy and national gratitude. At the public -dinners, instead of caustic toasts, intended to throw ridicule and odium -on some potent adversary, none were heard but healths to the guest of -the nation, around whom were amicably grouped the most violent of both -parties. Finally, for nearly two months all the discord and excitement -produced by this election, which, it was said, would engender the most -disastrous consequences, were forgotten, and nothing was thought of but -Lafayette and the heroes of the revolution. - -On the evening of the day in which the president had received a -notification that his successor had been appointed, there was a large -party at his house. I had already been present at these parties, which -are very striking from the numerous and various society there assembled, -and by the amiable simplicity with which Mrs. Monroe and her daughters -receive their guests. But, on this occasion, the crowd was so -considerable that it was almost impossible to move. All the inhabitants -of Washington were attracted by the desire of seeing the president elect -and his competitors, who, it was taken for granted, would be present, -and who, in fact, were so, with the exception of Mr. Crawford, who was -detained at home by illness. After having made my bow to Mr. and Mrs. -Monroe, to reach whom I found considerable difficulty, I looked with -impatience for Mr. Adams and the other candidates. It appeared to me, -that their being thus thrown together would prove extremely embarrassing -to them, and I felt some curiosity to see how they would conduct -themselves on the occasion. On entering one of the side rooms, I -perceived Mr. Adams; he was alone in the midst of a large circle which -was formed around him. His countenance was as open and modest as usual. -Every instant persons pressed through the crowd to offer him their -congratulations, which he received without embarrassment, and replied to -by a cordial shake of the hand. At some distance, in the midst of a -group of ladies, was Mrs. Adams. She appeared to be radiant with joy; -but it was easy to be seen that she was more pleased at the personal -triumph of her husband than for the advantages or pleasures that would -result to herself. Whilst I was attentively looking at this interesting -scene, a tumultuous movement was heard at the door, and a murmur of -satisfaction arose from the whole party; I soon ascertained the cause, -in seeing General Jackson make his appearance. Every one pressed forward -to meet him, and endeavoured to be the first to salute him. To all these -effusions of friendship he replied with frankness and cordiality. I -alternately scrutinized both Mr. Adams and the general, being curious to -see how these two men, who the morning before were rivals, would now -meet. I was not kept long in expectation. The moment they perceived each -other, they hastened to meet, taking each other cordially by the hand. -The congratulations offered by General Jackson were open and sincere; -Mr. Adams appeared to be deeply moved, and the numerous witnesses could -not restrain the expression of their satisfaction. Mr. Clay arrived an -instant afterwards, and the same scene was repeated. This, perhaps, -produced less effect than the former, as Mr. Clay having had fewer -chances of success, was supposed to make less effort to maintain his -self-command; but it fully demonstrated the wisdom of the nation in its -selection of candidates. The generosity of character manifested by -General Jackson entirely satisfied me of the futility of the menaces of -the Pennsylvania militia. Whilst these reflections were passing through -my mind, I met in the crowd two officers with whom I had dined at York, -and whom I had remarked particularly for their zeal and excitement. -“Well,” said I, “the great question is decided, and in a manner contrary -to your hopes, what do you intend to do? How soon do you lay siege to -the capitol?” They began to laugh. “You recollect our threats, then,” -said one of them. “We went, in truth, great lengths, but our opponents -disregarded it, and they acted properly; they know us better than we -wished them to do. Now that is settled, all we have to do is to obey. We -will support Adams as zealously as if he were our candidate, but, at the -same time, shall keep a close watch on his administration, and according -as it is good or bad, we will defend or attack it. Four years are soon -passed, and the consequences of a bad election are easily obviated.” -“Yes,” said I, “much easier than that of legitimacy or hereditary -succession.” They left me, laughing heartily, and the next day no body -spoke of the election. - -When the ardour and zeal of the parties in favour of their peculiar -candidates are considered, it might be supposed that the president of -the United States was an inexhaustible source of benefit to his friends, -and that his power was such, that he could at will dispense favours, -places, and riches. To remove this error it is only necessary to turn to -that article of the constitution which fixes the duties of the head of -the government, and any one will be convinced that it leaves fewer means -of corruption in his hands than are with us bestowed on the lowest -prefect. - -It will be seen that the constitution, in fixing in a precise manner the -duties and power of the chief magistrate, has rather kept in view the -welfare and interests of the nation, than the gratification of one -individual and his family. Hence, the president is placed in such a -situation, that whatever may be his personal character, it is impossible -for him to injure the liberty, right, or honour of his fellow citizens. -He does not, like some kings on the old continent, enjoy several -millions of revenue, and immense estates. The law only allows him 25,000 -dollars as a salary, but it is not by the sumptuousness of his -equipages, by the splendour of a numerous guard, or by the number of his -courtiers, that he maintains the dignity of his station. - -As he cannot entrench himself behind the responsibility of his -ministers, nor protect himself under the infallibility of his character, -or the inviolability of his person, which the constitution does not -guarantee, the president of the United States is obliged to be extremely -circumspect in all acts of executive power, which are delegated to him -alone; and the people are so firmly persuaded, that the functions of a -chief magistrate are only to be fulfilled by incessant attention and -labour, that they would be exceedingly astonished, and, perhaps, -indignant, if the newspapers sometimes announced, that the president had -been occupied on a certain day for two or even for three hours with one -of his ministers. - -If the difference which exists between the president of the United -States and the kings of Europe are striking, that between the ministers -of that republic and ours is not less remarkable. A minister of the -United States has but 3000 dollars salary, no hotel, no furniture nor -train of servants paid by the nation, no sentries at his door, no -servants in a ridiculous dress to attend him when he goes in public, no -privileges unconnected with his office, but, at the same time, no -responsibility for his actions. Chosen by the president, he is in fact -his instrument, and owes him all his time. As he has not under his -orders a host of directors general, chiefs of division, and clerks of -all kinds, at high wages, he is obliged himself to put his hand to the -wheel, and truly to earn his salary, which is too small, it is true, to -enable him oftentimes to give sumptuous dinners to members of congress; -but is sufficient, nevertheless, for a wise and conscientious man, who -well knows that it is only by his activity and probity, and not by -intrigues and corruption, that he will fulfil the duties of his station, -and repay the confidence reposed in him. - -The habits of the American ministers are so simple, and differ so little -from those of their fellow citizens, that nothing, absolutely nothing, -in their exterior serves to mark them in public. During our first visit -to Washington, when we wished to return the visits they had had the -politeness to pay us, we were several times obliged to ask, not for -their hotels, for we should not have been understood, but for their -residences, although situated in the same street in which we were -living. Sometimes, when we had knocked at the door of their houses, they -have themselves opened them. We have often met them with their port -folios under their arms, returning on foot from their offices to their -respective houses, where a modest family repast awaited them. All this, -doubtless, would appear very _bourgeois_ with us, but in the United -States, where the people think more of a good administration than the -luxury and splendour of its administrators, it is thought natural and -proper, and, I believe, with reason. - -This extreme simplicity of the ministers extends to all other public -officers, and is the true secret of that economy of government we so -highly praise, and which, in all probability, we shall never attain. - -A senate, and a house of representatives form the legislative power of -the United States, power which emanates immediately from the people, and -which counterbalances the executive power, so that if it should happen -that the people, in a moment of error, should bestow the presidency on -an incompetent or ambitious candidate, the injurious influence of such a -man would be neutralized by that of congress. - -Congress assembles on the first Monday in the month of December of each -year, and continues in session according to the importance of the -business before it, but rarely beyond the month of May. From the middle -of November, the senators and representatives of the different states -begin to arrive in Washington. Among them there are many who, to fulfil -the duties of their appointment, have been obliged to traverse hundreds -of leagues of uninhabited forests, and over most perilous roads. On -arriving they lodge at a hotel, where they are obliged, in some -instances, to sleep in a room with four or five of their colleagues. The -table is open to all who reside in the house. It is usually there, after -a frugal meal, that those interesting conversations occur, in which most -part of the questions likely to come before congress during the session -are amicably discussed. When the first Monday in December arrives the -session opens, and business commences immediately, for all are at their -posts. During the whole time every day is conscientiously employed by -the representatives of the nation in the discussion of the dearest -interests of the people. As soon as the session closes, each member -returns to his constituents, and finds, in the reception they give him, -the dearest recompense he can hope for, if he should have fulfilled his -duty to their satisfaction. - -The first of January was fixed upon by the two houses, for a grand -dinner to General Lafayette. The representatives of the people wished to -consecrate American hospitality, by seating the guest of the nation at a -table at which the whole people could be present in them. Mr. Gailliard, -president _pro tempore_ of the senate, and Mr. Clay, speaker of the -house of representatives, presided at the dinner. Mr. Gailliard had -General Lafayette on his left, and Mr. Monroe the president of the -United States on his right; who, overlooking on this occasion the rule -he had made of never attending any public dinner, had accepted the -invitation; Mr. Clay had on each side of him, the secretaries of the -different departments. Among the guests, were General Dearborn, minister -of the United States to the court of Portugal; Generals Scott, Macomb, -Jessup, and our worthy countryman Bernard, by whose side I had the -honour to be placed; Commodores Bainbridge, Tingy, Steward and Morris, -as well as many other public officers of highest rank. Among the guests, -General Lafayette had the pleasure of finding some of his old companions -in arms. Captain Allyn of the Cadmus, who had recently arrived from -France, was also present. The hall was decorated with great splendour, -and the guests were animated by a feeling of union, which demonstrated -how completely they considered this ceremony as a family festival. - -It is in such assemblies, that the public feeling of a people can be -studied, particularly where its representatives, chosen freely, and -having no reason to flatter those in power, or to dissimulate, give a -free vent to all their sentiments. After a variety of toasts, highly -complimentary to the general, and to which he replied with great -felicity, the entertainment was concluded with a universal wish of the -guests that all the American people could have been present at it. - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - Departure from Washington—American Feelings—Sea-Lion—Family of Free - Negroes—Raleigh—Fayetteville—North Carolina. - - -About the first of February, General Lafayette had received from all the -southern and western states such pressing invitations, that he could no -longer hesitate as to what course he should pursue; and immediately we -were all actively employed in determining our order of march, and the -means of surmounting the difficulties which every one assured us, would -be very great in a journey of this nature and length. We had, indeed, a -distance of more than twelve hundred leagues to pass over, in less than -four months, to enable us to be in Boston on the seventeenth of June, -where the general had promised to assist at the celebration of the -anniversary of Bunker’s Hill; and a part of the country through which we -were obliged to travel, was scarcely inhabited, and the roads, rough and -difficult, were imperfectly laid out. - -But thanks to the experience of General Bernard, to the information of -the post master general (M’Lean,) and to the assistance of the members -of congress who were in Washington, Mr. George Lafayette was enabled to -trace out an such an excellent itinerary, that his father had no fear of -neglecting in his course any places of importance in the various states -we had to visit, although most of these places were often many miles to -the right or left of our main line of march; and his time was so exactly -proportioned, that, unless prevented by sickness or some serious -accident, we were to arrive in Boston on the day promised. - -We neglected no precaution adapted to aid us in surmounting the -obstacles which, in the opinion of every one, threatened us in the -course of this new journey. The general’s friends could not think -without fear of the fatigues and dangers to which, they said, he was -about to expose himself. Mrs. Eliza Custis, of the Washington family, -pressed him to accept of her commodious and easy carriage. We purchased -good saddle-horses to substitute for the coach on very bad roads; -reduced our baggage as much as possible, and on the 23d of February, at -nine o’clock in the evening embarked upon the Potomac, which we -descended to its outlet in the Chesapeake Bay, and thence proceeded to -Norfolk, where we landed early on the morning of the 25th, after a -pleasant passage of two nights and one day. On the day following we went -to dine at Suffolk, a small village, where they waited for the general -with all the eagerness and kindness he had hitherto met with at every -step. - -Favoured by a good road and pleasant weather, our march was very rapid. -A few miles from Norfolk we were obliged to stop some time before a -small, solitary inn upon the road, for the purpose of refreshing our -horses. We were sitting in our carriage when the landlord presented -himself, asked to see the general, and eagerly pressed him to alight for -a moment and come into his house. “If,” said he, “you have only five -minutes to stay, do not refuse them, since to me they will be so many -minutes of happiness.” The general yielded to his entreaty, and we -followed him into a lower room, where we observed a plainness bordering -on poverty, but a remarkable degree of cleanliness. _Welcome Lafayette_, -was inscribed with charcoal upon the white wall, enwreathed with boughs -from the fir trees of the neighbouring wood. Near the fire-place, where -pine wood was crackling, stood a small table covered with a very clean -napkin, and covered with some decanters containing brandy and whiskey; -by the side of a plate covered with glasses was another plate filled -with neatly arranged slices of bread. These modest refreshments were -tendered with a kindness and cordiality which greatly enhanced their -value. Whilst we were partaking of them the landlord disappeared, but -returned a moment after accompanied by his wife, carrying her little -boy, about three or four years of age, whose fresh and plump cheeks -evinced the tenderness and care with which he had been cherished. The -father, after first presenting his wife, next took his child in his -arms, and, having placed one of his little hands in the hand of the -general, made him repeat, with much emphasis, the following: “General -Lafayette, I thank you for the liberty which you have won for my father, -for my mother, for myself, and for my country!!” While the child was -speaking, the father and mother eyed the general with the most tender -regard: their hearts responded to the words of their boy, and tears they -were unable to suppress, proved that their gratitude was vivid and -profound. Were I to judge from what I myself felt on witnessing this -simple and yet sublime scene, General Lafayette must have found this one -of the most pleasing moments of his life. He could not conceal his -emotions, but having tenderly embraced the child, took refuge in his -carriage, bearing with him the blessings of this family, worthy of the -freedom they enjoyed. - -The same day, shortly before reaching Suffolk, some negroes stopped us -with an invitation to enter their cabin, situated on the road side, to -see a very extraordinary animal, which they told us was a sea-lion. It -was about seven feet long, covered with a hairy skin of the colour of -the fallow deer, spotted with black: the size of its body near the -shoulders was about that of a calf, from whence it diminished gradually -till it terminated at the tail in large fins; its head was small, round, -and slightly flattened, resembling a little that of the tiger; its mouth -was furnished with long, strong and sharp teeth; its extremities were -very short and had the shape of a hand; the fingers were united by a -membrane capable of great extension, and armed with very strong and -sharp claws. The negroes told us that in walking along the shores of -Elizabeth River at low water, they perceived this animal upon the sand, -where it appeared to have been left by the tide. As soon as it saw these -men it moved towards them, but without any apparent hostile intentions. -The negroes, however, ran away at first, whilst it followed them for -some time, but at a slow pace, as it is easy to conceive on examining -its short extremities, which appeared better adapted for swimming than -walking. After having retreated a hundred steps, one of the negroes, who -was armed with a musket, turned and fired at the animal, which received -the charge in the flank, and almost immediately expired.[2] - -A few compliments accompanied with some small money made these poor -negroes very happy, and we left them to go and visit a neighbouring -habitation, which was said to belong to a large family of free blacks. -The house was very well kept, both externally and internally; I was -struck with the order and neatness which prevailed, as well as the fine -appearance of the inhabitants, who seemed to enjoy a state of comfort -and ease superior to that of most of our European peasantry. One of our -travelling companions, a citizen of Norfolk, assured us that this family -had more than doubled the value of their property some years, by their -intelligence and industry. I invite those who still persist in believing -that the negroes are incapable of providing for themselves in a state of -freedom, to visit this family, which, however, is not the only one of -the kind which could be found in the state of Virginia. - -After stopping a few moments among the citizens of Suffolk, we continued -on our route to Murfreesborough, where we were to lodge. Our late -arrival had the appearance of a nocturnal journey. The bad condition and -length of the road had tired our horses, and we thought for a while that -we should be compelled to sleep at the foot of the hill on which the -town is built. An enormous bonfire, lighted on a neighbouring mountain, -whose light displayed our distressed situation; the illuminations of -Murfreesborough, which exhibited the appearance of a city in flames; the -noise of cannon resounding on our right, with the effect of battery on -our flank; the cries of our escort; the whipping and swearing of our -drivers, all was insufficient to stimulate our horses, which, sunk in -the mud to their knees, appeared to have taken root, refusing to make -the least exertion to draw us out of this sad situation, in which we -remained about an hour. At length we arrived, and were very amply -compensated by the cordial hospitality of the inhabitants of -Murfreesborough, who neglected nothing to prove to General Lafayette -that the citizens of North Carolina were not less sincerely attached to -him than those of the other states. - -From Murfreesborough, we went the next day to Halifax, where we crossed -the Roanoak, in a ferry-boat, amidst the thunder of artillery which -awaited the arrival of General Lafayette on the opposite shore. Halifax -was formerly the head quarters of Cornwallis, during his campaign in -North Carolina. It was there that the English chief adopted the -resolution, which proved so unfortunate, of entering Virginia. We only -slept at Halifax, and in two days, after travelling over frightful -roads, reached Raleigh, a pretty little town, situated on the west bank -of the river Neuse. It is the seat of government for North Carolina, and -contains about two thousand seven hundred inhabitants, of which about -fifteen hundred are blacks, both free and slaves. One of the most -precious monuments of this town, is the superb statue of Washington, -executed in marble by Canova. It is preserved, with the greatest care, -in one of the halls of the capitol. - -The governor of the state, officers of government, militia, and, in -fine, all the population, were prepared to receive and entertain, with -proper dignity, the guest of the nation. Such was the height of the -prevailing enthusiasm, that, in spite of bad weather, a company of -volunteer dragoons had marched nearly one hundred and fifty miles, to -assist at this family festival. The gallant men who composed it, had -solicited and obtained leave to perform, for this day, the duty of guard -to Lafayette; and they had founded their pretensions upon the -circumstance, that the county of Mecklinburg, to which they belonged, -was the first in the state where independence was declared, during the -revolution. “Whenever it becomes necessary to serve for liberty or -Lafayette,” said they, “we shall always be found among the foremost.” -Nothing was neglected by Governor Burton, in doing the honours of his -dwelling to the national guest. - -The morning of our arrival at Raleigh was near being marked by a very -unfortunate accident. In one of the calashes which followed us, was -General Daniel of the militia, and a young officer of his staff; their -horses ran off, and, the driver not being able to guide them, dashed -violently against the trunk of a tree. The force of the shock threw both -the riders and the coachman to some distance, but the one most hurt was -poor General Daniel, who lay almost senseless upon the spot. Our -progress was immediately suspended, and General Lafayette, who, at the -time, was a considerable distance in advance of the procession, hastily -returned to assure himself of the nature of the accident. General Daniel -already began to recover, when the hasty zeal of his friend, General -Williams, was upon the point of placing him in greater danger than arose -from the fall. This gentleman insisted upon his being immediately bled, -and already held the fatal lancet in hand to proceed with the operation, -when Mr. George Lafayette besought him seriously to forbear, -representing that we had just left the table, and that a bleeding -immediately after dinner might be attended with injurious consequences. -After having rendered General Daniel the first attentions which his -situation demanded, we had him carried to the house of a rich planter, -whom we had visited in the morning, some miles off; and, the next day, -our wounded friend joined us at Raleigh, entirely recovered from his -fall, returning his warmest thanks to Mr. George Lafayette, for having -averted the employment of the lancet. - -I was, at first, much surprised to see this lancet drawn upon such an -occasion, but one of our travelling companions informed me, that in the -southern and western states, and especially in those where the -population is widely scattered, the art of blood-letting is familiar to -almost all the great planters. The difficulty of finding a surgeon at -the moment of accident, often makes it necessary to bleed themselves, -which they sometimes do so profusely, that the most hardy phlebotomists -of the French school would be alarmed at the sight. - -On the 4th of March, we arrived at the pretty little town of -Fayetteville, situated on the western bank of Cape Fear river. The -weather was dreadful, the rain pouring in torrents, notwithstanding -which, the road for many miles in front of the town was covered with men -and boys on horseback, and militia on foot. In the town, the streets -were crowded with ladies elegantly dressed, hurrying, regardless of -consequences, across the gutters, to approach the carriage of the -general, and so occupied with the pleasure of beholding him, that they -did not appear to notice the deluge which seemed ready to engulf them. -This enthusiasm may be more readily conceived, when we consider that it -was manifested by the inhabitants of a town, founded forty years ago, to -perpetuate the recollection of services rendered by him whom they were -this day honouring. - -General Lafayette was conducted to the front of the town-house, where, -upon an elevated platform, he was received and addressed by Chief -Justice Troomer, on behalf of the town council. In the course of his -harangue, the orator recapitulated, with enthusiasm, the obligations -which America owed to Lafayette, retraced some of the persecutions to -which he had been exposed in France and Austria, for having remained -faithful to the cause of liberty and the rights of man, which he had -been the first to proclaim in Europe, and concluded by drawing a -forcible parallel between the young republics of the United States and -the old monarchies of the ancient continent of Europe. - -After General Lafayette had expressed his gratitude for the reception -given him by the citizens of Fayetteville, and his sympathy for the -sentiments of the orator, we were conducted to the residence of Mr. -Duncan M‘Rae, where, by the attentions of Mrs. Duncan, our lodgings had -been prepared in an elegant and commodious manner. The general was there -received by the committee, appointed to supply all his wants. “You are -here in your own town,” said the chairman of the committee to him, “in -your own house, surrounded by your children. Dispose of all—every thing -is yours.” Every moment of our short stay at Fayetteville was occupied -by festivals of gratitude and friendship. Notwithstanding the bad -weather, which never ceased to oppose us, the volunteer militia -companies, assembled to render military honours to the last surviving -major-general of the revolutionary army, would not quit the little camp -which they had formed in front of the balcony of the house, whence the -general could easily see them manœuvre. They were still under arms, on -the morning of our departure, and we passed in front of their line on -leaving the town. It was then that General Lafayette, wishing to give -them an expression of his gratitude, alighted, and passing through the -ranks, took each officer and soldier affectionately by the hand. This -conduct excited the spectators to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that a -great portion of the population, willing to prolong the pleasure of -seeing him, accompanied his carrage a considerable distance on the road, -and only quitted him when the sun was nearly set. - -The commerce of Fayetteville is very flourishing, and must still -increase from the vicinity of Cape Fear river, which is navigable to the -sea. The products of the surrounding country consist principally of -tobacco and grain. Its population is nearly four thousand souls, and -increases with remarkable rapidity. Unfortunately more than a third of -this population consists of slaves, who increase in the same proportion -with the free inhabitants; a circumstance which will probably continue -for some time to retard the full developement of its resources. What I -here say of Fayetteville is applicable to the whole state of North -Carolina, which, in a population of six hundred and forty thousand -souls, has above two hundred thousand slaves. - -The climate of North Carolina is said to be healthy, and very well -adapted to every species of culture. Nevertheless, the part through -which we passed did not present an agreeable aspect. We met with -numerous pine forests overflown by the rivers which watered them; many -sand plains, and but little cultivated ground; that which is cultivated -producing only rice and indigo. The mountainous parts of the state are -stated to produce abundant crops of wheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian -corn, tobacco, hemp and cotton. This last article, when prepared for -manufacturing, is produced in the proportion of one hundred and fifty -pounds for each slave. - -It is also in the highest grounds where native gold is found in -considerable quantity. It is obtained by simply washing the earth. Its -purity is very remarkable, having been found twenty-three carats fine, -and superior in quality to the American or English gold coins. The -pieces are of various weights. The heaviest yet found weighed nearly -five pounds. In 1810, the mint of the United States received one -thousand three hundred and forty-one ounces, the value of which amounted -to twenty-four thousand six hundred and eighty-nine dollars. In -Montgomery county, many persons live by hunting for this metal. Every -one has permission to seek, upon condition that he gives half he finds -to the owner of the soil. - -Notwithstanding all its rich resources, North Carolina appeared to me -one of the least advanced of all the states we have hitherto visited. -Slavery, in my opinion, should be regarded as the principal cause of -this condition. Its constitution, though in general founded upon those -of the other states, differs from them in some points, and retains some -traces of aristocracy. Thus, for example, to be elected a senator, a -person must be owner of three hundred acres of land; to be a -representative, he must possess one hundred: finally, no man can be -elected governor unless he be the free proprietor of an estate yielding -one thousand dollars. In the midst of promises of religious liberty, the -constitution of North Carolina has nevertheless the misfortune to have -preserved an unhappy distinction between sects: thus, any man who denies -the truth of the protestant religion, can have no pretensions to any -public employment.[3] I am well aware that in a government which -supports no established order of clergy, the inconvenience of such a -distinction is not so great, but it is nevertheless a serious blow aimed -at the equality established and recognized by law. A wrong of still more -consequence in this state, is that of having so long neglected the means -of propagating primary instruction. In 1808 the legislature first -ordered schools to be provided at the public expense. But in spite of -the defects which I have pointed out, the inhabitants of North Carolina, -from their patriotism, are unquestionably worthy to form a part of the -great confederate family of the United States. To prove this, it will be -sufficient to cite one fact, which is, that during the revolutionary -war, the enemy could never procure a pilot upon the coast of this state. -I might add, that the brilliant successes which attended the battles of -Briar Creek in 1779, of Waxhaws in 1780, and of Guilford in 1781, were -due to the militia of this state. - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Entrance into South Carolina—Route from Cheraw to Cambden—Monument - erected to Baron de Kalb—Road from Cambden to Charleston—Rejoicing - in Charleston—Colonel Huger—History, Institutions, and Manners of - the South Carolinians. - - -Twenty-four hours after our departure from Fayetteville, in the midst of -a pine forest, we met the deputation of the state of South Carolina to -General Lafayette. This meeting took place on the confines of the two -states. Our kind and amiable travelling companions from North Carolina -delivered us to their neighbours, with the most lively expressions of -regret at a separation which cost us as much as them, and we continued -our route in new carriages, with a new escort of friends, till we -arrived at Cheraw, a pretty little town, which, three years previous, -had not more than four houses built, and now contains about fifteen -hundred inhabitants. The next day’s journey was long and difficult; -sometimes, indeed, the road was almost impassable, being, in some -places, entirely cut up by the overflow of rivers, whilst in others we -could only cross the marshes by moving gently over a road formed of -badly arranged trunks of trees. In fact, we travelled so slowly, that -night overtook us on the road, and it soon became so dark that many of -the gentlemen of our escort lost the road, and not being able to trace -it in the sand, wandered into the forest. The carriages of the party -also began to stray from each other, and towards ten o’clock Mr. George -Lafayette and myself discovered that the one we rode in was at a great -distance behind the others. A few minutes after we felt a violent shock, -and heard a loud crash. Our carriage tongue was broken, and we were left -in the midst of the marsh. Our situation was extremely disagreeable, and -we should have had some difficulty to escape from it but for the -assistance of two dragoons who had never left us, and who obliged us to -mount their horses, which, after some minutes, brought us in sight of -the fires of the guard surrounding the house that was to serve us for an -asylum, where the general had arrived an hour before. In this house, -which stood altogether alone in the midst of the woods, we were well -accommodated. We had an excellent supper, and good beds, in which we -might probably have slept soundly but for the trumpet, which was sounded -all night for the purpose of rallying our scattered escort. - -On arising, an entirely novel scene was presented to my view. We were in -the midst of what is called in America _a new settlement_, that is to -say, a clearing or erection of a new habitation in the woods. The house -in which we had passed the night was the only dwelling in the place, and -it was still unfinished. By its side they had begun to raise the frames -of some other buildings, doubtless intended for granaries and stables. -Numerous trunks of half hewn trees collected together showed that it was -the intention of the owner soon to erect other buildings, and already -the forest was prostrated to a considerable extent. But a few vast trees -were standing in the clearing, whose branches were not only lopped off, -but some of them were deprived of their bark, and blackened for their -whole length by the action of the flames which had been employed to burn -the brush about them. It is difficult to imagine any thing more desolate -than such a scene. “It is, nevertheless, in this way,” said one of our -travelling companions, “that all our little towns, which are so -attractive and lively, begin. Cheraw, where you slept yesterday, and -with which you were so much pleased, but a few years ago resembled this, -and, perhaps, should you return in four or five years, you may here find -another Cheraw. See,” continued he, taking me to a part of the forest -which the axe and the fire had still spared, “with what care and skill -the founder of this future city has laid the basis of a fortune which he -anticipates enjoying in a short time. Look at this lot of several acres, -surrounded by a strong fence, in which his cows, horses, and hogs are -enclosed. These last named animals, raised thus at large, and in the -enjoyment of abundance of food, soon multiply without number, and afford -him a certain part of his subsistence. The next year, that portion of -his land which comes to be cleared, will probably yield him a rich -harvest of corn or rice; but the proprietor, whilst waiting for the -growth of his crops, is obliged to obtain his bread by trading, and pays -for it in turpentine, collected from the enormous pines which surround -him. A small notch cut in the body of the tree, gives issue to a liquid -which is received in a trough. Three thousand trees furnish annually -seventy-five barrels of turpentine. But it is not only the young and -vigorous trees which contribute to his wants; he has recourse also to -those time has destroyed. From the dead trees he extracts tar, obtained -by burning the wood upon a grate, a kettle being placed beneath to -receive the boiling liquid. Sometimes from the plants which he clears -away from around his house, he obtains a considerable quantity of -potash, which still augments his wealth. Every year sees the cleared -land increase around him, and soon other _settlers_, encouraged by his -success, place themselves about him, and assist in erecting the new -village, in which he may be permitted to enjoy the public employments -conferred by his fellow citizens as a tribute to his talents and -patriotism.” - -Whilst we were thus engaged in casting a rapid glance over the resources -of our host and his future destinies, General Lafayette concluded the -preparations for his departure, and, at a signal given by the trumpets, -we resumed our journey, passing through the sands and pines on our way -to Cambden, where we were to lodge. The weather had changed during the -night, and our march was now favoured by a clear sky. Although it was -the month of March, we felt the heat of the sun considerably, and every -thing around bore the appearance of advanced spring. On approaching -Cambden, where we saw a considerable number of well cultivated gardens, -we were a good deal surprised to find the trees in flower, and the balmy -air perfumed by the plants, as in France during the month of June. - -Cambden is not a large town, containing only about two hundred -inhabitants. We nevertheless found there a very numerous population, -collected from more than eighty miles around, to receive General -Lafayette, and assist in laying the corner stone of a monument which -they were about erecting to the memoir of Baron de Kalb. General -Lafayette was received a little in advance of the town, near the old -quarters of Cornwallis, by all the citizens under arms, and was -conducted with great pomp, and in the midst of companies of young -ladies, to the dwelling prepared for him, where he was addressed by -Colonel Nixons, Jr. with a remarkable warmth of feeling. The attentive -crowd applauded the orator with transports, when he told the general -that his visit to the United States had added a new page to history, and -that the splendour of Greek and Roman triumphs faded before the -unanimity and harmony of this popular ovation. - -On the morning of the next day, a long procession, formed chiefly of -free masons, followed by the civil authorities and deputations from the -different associations of South Carolina, came to the general’s -lodgings, and conducted him with solemn music towards the spot where De -Kalb’s funeral ceremony was to be performed. There the consecration of -the monument raised by the generous inhabitants of South Carolina to -unfortunate bravery, was performed. An inscription, in a style at once -noble and unaffected, reminds the country of the services and glorious -end of De Kalb. - -It is well known that De Kalb was a German, who, after he had served a -long time in France, came to America, like Lafayette and Pulaski, to -offer his services in the cause of liberty. He was second in command in -General Gates’s army during the unfortunate affair of Cambden, where the -Americans were completely defeated. He had performed prodigies of valour -at the head of the Delaware and Maryland troops, when, towards the close -of the battle, he fell from his eleventh wound, an event which deprived -the American cause of one of its most able and devoted defenders. - -After his remains, which had been carefully preserved, were deposited in -the monument, and had received military honours, the stone which was to -cover them was laid by General Lafayette. It contained the following -inscription:—_This stone was placed over the remains of Baron De Kalb by -General Lafayette, 1825._ - -The hand of the general resting upon the stone, followed it as it slowly -and gradually descended, whilst the multitude, in religious silence, -contemplated the French veteran, after almost half a century, rendering -the last offices to the German soldier, in a land which they both had -moistened with their blood, and which their arms had contributed to set -free. How many glorious and painful recollections must this scene have -awakened in the mind of Lafayette! Alas! during his long triumph, how -many tombs was it his lot to visit, from that into which he descended at -Mount Vernon, to the one soon to be raised at Bunker’s Hill! - -The ceremony concluded by a discourse from the general, in which he paid -to his old companion in arms, that tribute of esteem which was due to -his civil virtues, his military talents, and undaunted courage, in -defending the cause of freedom. - -We left Cambden on the 11th, to go to Columbia, the capital of the state -of South Carolina. This town is pleasantly situated upon a fertile and -healthy plain, on the shore of the river Congaree. We found all the -streets, through which the general and his escort were to pass, -ornamented with flags and triumphal arches. Upon one of these, three -young and beautiful girls supported flags, upon each of which were -inscribed, in letters of gold, the names of Lafayette, De Kalb, and -Pulaski. Under another, placed near the house we were to occupy, the -general was met and addressed by the mayor of the town, a young man of -distinguished talents, who, during our stay at Columbia, paid us the -most kind and delicate attentions. Governor Manning also addressed the -general, in the presence of the people assembled in the legislative hall -of South Carolina, and both the evening and morning were devoted to -public rejoicings. - -The first evening, after having passed through the streets, which were -brilliantly illuminated, we paid a visit to the academy, under the -superintendence of the celebrated Dr. Cooper. We were agreeably -entertained by the professors, who are all of the first merit. Two of -them spoke French with great fluency. They informed us, that they had -resided a long time in Paris, where they were proud to have acquired -that knowledge which they were called upon to impart to their pupils. -The next day, several companies of militia, among which a corps formed -by the students of the academy, under the name of Lafayette Guards, were -distinguished, came to exercise under the general’s windows. We passed -the remainder of the day, in the midst of some of Lafayette’s veteran -companions in arms, who took a pleasure in recalling to his memory, the -times in which they had fought and suffered with him for the -independence of their country. In the evening, at a ball, rendered -remarkable by the beauty of the ladies gracing it, as well as for the -good taste displayed in the arrangements, we made acquaintance with a -young lady who inspired us with the most lively interest. She was the -wife of one of the professors. Born in Paris, she had only been -transplanted into this new soil about three months, in the midst of -manners which at first were altogether strange, but with which she now -appeared perfectly reconciled. She was introduced to the general, who -received her with great kindness. Towards the close of the evening, her -French and American feelings, strongly excited by the testimonials of -friendship and admiration she saw lavished upon Lafayette, suddenly -broke forth in transports which she was unable to suppress. “Heavens!” -exclaimed she, “how proud and happy I feel, to-day, in being a native of -France, and of the same country with General Lafayette!” Then, after -having sprung towards the general and kissed his hands, she returned to -me with great animation, and said: “Tell the general’s family, I beseech -you, how happy we should be to receive them here as we have received -him! And say to them, that for myself, I feel for the children of La -Grange the friendship of a countrywoman, and for Lafayette himself the -gratitude of an American.” This scene made a lively impression upon all -who witnessed it, and the general thanked the young lady with all the -ardour of a strongly agitated heart. - -On the 14th of March, we set out for Charleston, intending to lodge some -miles from this city, as General Lafayette was not to make his entry -until the 15th. An escort of Columbia volunteer cavalry were formed in -line before the door, at the moment of our departure, anxious to -accompany the general all the way to Charleston; but he thanked them, -and insisted that they should not leave the town, as the road he had to -travel was both long and difficult, and there was moreover the -appearance of a heavy rain. It was, in fact, at a very late hour that we -arrived at our destination. The night and the rain caught us in the -midst of a thick forest, across which it was difficult to find our -narrow and devious way. About nine o’clock in the evening, the carriage -I rode in broke down. That of the general, which went before with the -governor and some officers of his staff, continued its route without -perceiving the accident; but that of Mr. George Lafayette, which at this -time happened to be in the rear, found its passage obstructed, and the -horses taking fright, plunged amongst the trees, where it stuck fast. -Mr. George, and his travelling companions, Colonel Preston and the Mayor -of Columbia, immediately alighted, and, by main strength, dragged their -carriage before mine. They offered me a seat along with them to continue -the journey, directing the servants to mount the horses and go in search -of light and assistance to repair the broken vehicle. I accepted their -offer, but had scarcely joined them, when Colonel Preston, who had taken -the reins, deceived by the darkness, carried us into the thickest of the -woods, and in such a situation, that we must have infallibly upset had -we proceeded a step further. Nothing was left for us now, but to remain -nearly an hour, under a driving rain, for the return of the servants, -who brought with them great pine torches. They now assisted us out of -our embarrassment, and at eleven o’clock at night, wet and extremely -fatigued, we reached the house of Mr. Izard, where we found the general -and his companions, who had arrived a long time before. The hospitable -table of Mr. Izard, his kind reception and that of his family, soon made -us forget our misfortunes, at which we were the first to laugh over the -dessert. - -That the citizens of Charleston, who had made immense preparation to -receive the guest of the nation, might not be kept waiting, we resumed -our journey at a very early hour. At the moment when we were preparing -to take leave of the family of Mr. Izard, we saw an escort of volunteer -cavalry arrive from the city, with which we immediately set out. In -proportion as we advanced towards Charleston, the monotony of pine -forests disappeared. Our eyes now rested with pleasure upon clusters of -verdant and beautifully shaped saplings, among which superb magnolias -were majestically elevated. The entrance to the city appeared to us like -a delicious garden. The coolness of the night had condensed the perfumes -from the orange, peach, and almond trees, covered with flowers, and -embalmed the air. We stopped a few minutes to change the carriage and -allow the procession time to form, when, on a signal given by a cannon, -we commenced our entrance into Charleston. - -The inhabitants of Charleston, as residents of the city which had -received the young Lafayette on his first arrival on American ground, in -1776, were eager to prove that no where more than among themselves, had -a stronger recollection of his devotion to the cause of liberty been -preserved. Accordingly, the reception which they gave him may be -compared, for the splendour of its decorations and public enthusiasm, to -the finest we had seen in the principal cities in the United States. The -militia of Charleston were joined by the militia from the most distant -parts of the state. Some companies of volunteer cavalry had, we were -told, marched fifty miles a day to take the post assigned them by their -patriotic gratitude. - -Among the various corps which left the city to meet the general, there -was one which particularly attracted our attention. Its uniform was -precisely similar to that worn by the national guard of Paris at the -time of the French revolution. The language in which the men composing -this corps sounded forth their _vivat_, when the general passed before -them, showed us that they were Frenchmen, and we experienced a pleasing -emotion on hearing our countrymen unite their voices with those of -liberty and gratitude. - -The French company joined the procession, and, actuated by a sentiment -of extreme delicacy, the Americans ceded to them the place of honour, -near the carriage of the general. The procession was soon increased by a -great number of parties, composed of the clergy, association of -Cincinnati, veterans of the revolutionary army, students of the -different faculties, officers of the United States army and navy, judges -of the different courts, children of the public schools, German, French, -Jewish, and Hibernian beneficent societies, the association of -mechanics, &c. &c. All these detachments were distinguished by the form, -colour, and devices of their flags; and the rest of the population -following on foot and on horseback, made the air resound with cries of -_Welcome, Lafayette_, which sounds, for nearly two hours without -intermission, were mingled with the thunder of cannon from the shipping -in port, and the ringing of all the bells. But amidst all these -expressions of public affection, that which penetrated the general’s -heart most was the touching and generous plan adopted by the citizens of -Charleston to share the honours of his triumph with his brave and -excellent friend Colonel Huger. - -It is well known that during his imprisonment in the fortress of Olmutz, -General Lafayette was upon the point of being liberated by the devotion -of two men whom the same generous feelings had associated in this -dangerous enterprize. These were Dr. Bollman, a German physician, and -young Huger, an American, son of a descendant of a French family -proscribed by the revocation of the edict of Nantes, in whose house -Lafayette was received on his first landing in Charleston. A series of -unfortunate incidents caused the failure of this generous attempt, which -nearly cost them their lives, and occasioned Lafayette to be treated, by -his keepers, with increased severity. Upon his release from the Austrian -dungeons, young Huger returned to his country, where he found, in the -esteem of the public, the reward of his noble and perilous enterprize. -At present the father of a family, a planter, and colonel of militia, he -lives retired and generally beloved, on a fine estate within a few -leagues of Charleston. General Lafayette had already enjoyed the -pleasure of pressing him to his grateful heart, upon his arrival at New -York. When we entered Charleston, his fellow citizens insisted upon his -taking a place by the side of the nation’s guest, in his triumphal car, -where he shared the public felicitations and plaudits. At the feast, at -the theatre, or ball, every where, in fact, the name of Huger was -inscribed by the side of that of Lafayette, upon whom the citizens of -Charleston could confer no greater favour, than by testifying such a -high degree of gratitude for one who had formerly exposed himself in -attempting to restore him to liberty. - -After the procession had passed through all parts of the town, it halted -at the court-house, where the mayor, at the head of the municipal -authorities, and in the presence of the people, addressed General -Lafayette. - -The acclamations of the people followed the words of the orator, and the -reply of the general, who, with an eloquence rendered more impressive by -the grateful feelings of his heart, recalled the ancient obligations -which he owed the citizens of Charleston, the noble devotion of the -ladies of this patriotic city, and the courage of the Carolinians during -the whole course of the revolution. - -Colonel Drayton also addressed the general on behalf of the association -of Cincinnati, after which we were conducted to the sumptuous lodgings -prepared for us, where, during the whole of the next day, the general -received the visits of all the corporations of the city. The company of -French fusileers we had observed on entering the city, presented -themselves first, the martial music at its head, saluting the general -with the two patriotic airs of _Yankee Doodle_ and the _Marseillois_. -Mr. Labatut and one of his companions then addressed the object of their -homage, after which the company filed off before him, blending with the -military honours they paid him, testimonies of the most tender -affection. When the general complimented the officers on the fineness of -their discipline, and good taste of their uniform, “We could not,” said -they, “have chosen one more honourable. Lafayette and our fathers wore -it in the glorious days of liberty in our country, and it incessantly -reminds us that the first duties of an armed citizen are, the -maintenance of public order, and the defence of the rights of man.” We -passed among these brave men some delicious moments, consecrated to the -recollections of our country. All spoke of it with tenderness and -enthusiasm, all expressed ardent wishes for her happiness. Among them -were some exiles! - -Shortly after the French company had retired, we saw all the members of -the clergy arrive, assembled under the direction of the Rev. Dr. -Farnham, whom they had chosen for their orator. Among them were seen -Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Jews, Roman Catholics, and German and -French Protestants. To witness their touching union, and the testimonies -of their reciprocal liberality, one might have thought that they all -belonged to the same communion. I cannot introduce here the long and -eloquent discourse of Dr. Farnham, but I can assert, that, like that -pronounced by Bishop White of Philadelphia, it confirmed what I had -heard of the liberality of the clergy, which, without the support of a -government that seems ignorant of their existence, feels the necessity -of conciliating public esteem by the practice of true virtue. - -I pass over the account of the balls, displays of artificial fire-works, -and entertainments given during our stay in Charleston, since it would -be nearly a repetition of what I have already said in relation to so -many cities. But, leaving the general surrounded by his old fellow -soldiers, at the head of whom he still found the worthy General -Pinckney, to be entertained with the glorious recollections of their -youthful days, I shall attempt a rapid sketch of the history of South -Carolina. - -This portion of the North American continent was explored for the first -time by Jean Ponce de Leon, the Spanish governor of Porto-Rico. Struck -with the beauty of the vegetation, and the smiling aspect of the -country, he gave it the beautiful name of Florida. But not finding -either gold or silver mines, he gave up the plan of forming a -settlement. For a long time this country was coveted by the kings of -France, England, and Spain; but it was not till the year 1562 that -France decided upon asserting her claims. At the request of Admiral -Coligny, who was desirous of finding an asylum for the protestant party, -a naval officer named Ribaut, a native of Dieppe, was despatched with -two vessels and troops to survey the coast and form a settlement. Jean -Ribaut landed at the mouth of a river, under the thirtieth degree of -latitude, and established the right of possession by the erection of a -stone column, upon which he engraved the arms of France. After remaining -some time upon the coast, during which he entered into treaties of peace -with the natives of the country, he arrived at the mouth of Albemarle -river, where he formed his first settlement, which he called Carolina, -in honour of Charles IX. He raised for its protection a small fort, -which he garrisoned with about forty men, and leaving it under the -command of one of his officers named Albert, returned to France. This -governor being very severe in carrying into effect the discipline he had -established, was soon murdered by his soldiers, who, anxious to return -to their country, very soon embarked, and sailed for France. But -scarcely had they lost sight of the coast when they experienced such a -dead calm as kept them so long at sea that their provisions became -exhausted; and they had already begun to devour each other, when they -were met by an English vessel, which carried them to England, where -queen Elizabeth made them relate to her, with their own lips, the -account of their horrible adventures. - -Two years afterwards, a new expedition sailed under the command of Réné -de Landonnière, to establish and protect the colony; but whether owing -to misfortune, or want of knowledge in the leader, the expedition was -attended with the most melancholy results. The complaints of the -colonists against Landonnière reached France, and determined the -government to send out Ribaut to take charge of their affairs. This -person was surprised at the mouth of May river by a Spanish squadron of -six vessels, which attacked him so fiercely that he could only escape by -entering the river. Determined to resist the Spaniards with vigour, -Ribaut landed his men, carefully entrenched them, and going in search of -the best troops of Landonnière, whom he left in Fort Carolina, with all -those who were unable to bear arms, embarked again to pursue the enemy. -But he was assailed during the night by a violent storm which drove his -vessels upon the rocks. It was with the greatest difficulty that he and -his companions gained the shore to surrender themselves to the -Spaniards, by whom they were basely murdered without mercy. The sick, -together with the women and children who remained in the fort, met with -the same fate. Landonnière, and a few of his family, were all that -escaped, and after a long time, succeeded almost by a miracle in getting -back to France, where they carried the news of the melancholy end of -their companions. By the court of France the horrible event was treated -with indifference, but the public did not conceal its indignation, and -many of the most influential men demanded vengeance. One of these, named -Dominic de Gourges, a gentleman of Gascony, resolved upon being the -avenger of his countrymen. He fitted out three vessels at his own -expense, took on board two hundred soldiers and eighty marines, arrived -at the mouth of the river May, where he showed himself under the Spanish -flag, landed under this disguise without being recognized, marched -rapidly upon Fort Carolina, of which, with two others, aided by the -natives, he soon obtained possession, conquered the Spanish garrisons, -razed the fortifications, and returned in triumph to France laden with -booty. This daring enterprise struck terror into the Spaniards, and for -ever disgusted them of Carolina, which, until the reign of Charles II. -of England, was abandoned to all the nations of Europe. - -It was at this time that the English government, who had previously made -a settlement at the mouth of May River, under pretext of protecting some -families who had escaped the tomahawk of the Indians in Virginia, took -possession of all the country, situated between the 31st and 36th -degrees of latitude, and granted it to eight gentlemen of the court, the -king, _as proprietary of the royal castle of Greenwich_, reserving to -himself supreme authority, together with the fourth part of all the gold -and silver which might be found within the bounds of the territory. The -celebrated Locke was appointed to prepare a charter for the new colony. -By this constitution a species of royalty was transferred to the oldest -of the colonists, supported by an aristocracy which exhibited the -whimsical assemblage of lords, barons, landgraves and caciques, whose -powers and pretensions incessantly coming into collision, were soon -subjected to the tyranny of the palatine, for such was the title of the -superior officer whose precedence was derived entirely from his age. -This constitution, the abortive conception of a great genius, was -destroyed in 1720. The population of the colony soon increased rapidly, -in consequence of the political and religious persecutions, which at -that period desolated Europe. It received, almost at the same time, -English royalists, the parliamentists, and the non-conformists. France -sent the choicest of her citizens, proscribed by the edict of Nantes. In -1730, the mountains of Scotland saw their vanquished inhabitants going -thither in search of an asylum; and in 1745, it was further enriched by -the arrival of Swiss and German emigrants. From this time Carolina began -to be sensible of its strength, and to resist the abuse of power -manifested by the English government. She refused to pay taxes imposed -without her consent, and gave her sanction to the resolutions of the -colonial congress, to which she sent deputies in 1765. Nevertheless, -when, in 1775, it was resolved to break the chain which united Carolina -to the mother country, a division of opinion occurred among the -colonists, a considerable number of whom armed in favour of the British -government. A civil war was near breaking out, when a very extraordinary -occurrence led to the reconciliation of the parties. On the same day -that hostilities commenced at Lexington in Massachusetts, despatches -from England arrived at Charleston. The revolutionary committee seized -the mail containing the letters addressed to the governors of Virginia, -the two Carolinas, Georgia and East Florida, by which they were directed -to employ the force of arms to reduce the colonies to subjection. About -the same time, intelligence was received at Savannah, of an act of -parliament, authorising these governors to deprive the colonists of the -protection of the law and royal privilege, and confiscate their -property. - -These various accounts having been published by the committee, inspired -all the citizens with the same sentiments of indignation, and the -councils being immediately called together, the question was proposed, -_Shall we die slaves, or live free?_ The reply could not be doubtful. -All swore to take up arms and defend their rights. Some indiscreet -tories, who attempted to maintain possession of the country by the -assistance of Indians, whom they had taken into pay, were soon -annihilated by the patriotic militia, who, after a long and painful -struggle against the English troops of Savannah, at length secured the -independence of Carolina by the celebrated victory gained at Eutau -Spring, in the year 1781. - -It was in the midst of the troubles of war, in the year 1778, that -Carolina formed her first constitution. This, though very much in -conformity with the principles of the revolution, perhaps exhibited some -indications of the haste with which it was prepared. It was revised, -modified, and adopted in its present form, at Columbia, on the 30th of -June, 1790. Such as it now is, it would be considered in Europe highly -democratic; but, compared with the constitution of Pennsylvania, for -example, and those of some other states in the Union, it appears -altogether aristocratic. The conditions imposed upon the candidates for -governor, senators, and members of the assembly, restrict the eligible -to a very small number. The senators, chosen every four years, to the -number of forty-three, must be at least thirty years of age, have -resided in the state five years previous to the election, and possess an -unincumbered property worth three hundred pounds sterling. Should the -candidate not dwell in the district by which he is supported, his -property must be worth a thousand pounds sterling. - -The representatives, to the number of twenty-four, are elected for two -years. They must be free white men, at least twenty-one years of age, -and the owners of property worth one hundred and fifty pounds sterling, -or instead, a plantation containing five hundred acres, and ten slaves. -Should the candidate not reside in the district where he is supported, -the value of his property is required to be five hundred pounds. He must -be a citizen of the state, in which he shall have lived at least three -years previous to the election. - -It is obvious that both houses of the legislature are composed of a -portion of the richest proprietors only. It is from this legislative -power, blemished as it is with aristocracy, that the executive authority -springs; for it is by the union of the two houses that the governor, in -whom this power resides, is chosen. The conditions of eligibility for -governor are very high, and restrict the choice to a very small circle. -Every candidate for this office must be thirty years of age, a citizen -of the state, in which he must have resided at least ten years previous -to the election, and possess a clear estate worth fifteen hundred pounds -sterling. The powers of the governor only continue for two years. The -worst condition in the constitution is that imposing an obligation on -the senators to own slaves. I am well aware that it must necessarily -disappear before the abolition of slavery takes place, but does it not -appear to be placed there as an obstacle to abolition? And might not the -repeal of this article prove a salutary effort in favour of abolition? - -As in all the other states of the Union, religious organization is in no -way connected with government, which only guarantees to the various -sects the free exercise of their religious rites, so long as such a -privilege is unattended by licentiousness, or is compatible with the -peace and security of the state. Ministers of religion are ineligible to -the office of governor, lieutenant-governor, and member of assembly, so -long as they continue in the exercise of their pastoral functions. The -sects are numerous and variable, as one may easily perceive from the -composition of the religious body that waited upon General Lafayette. It -may, perhaps, have been observed, that it was only whilst speaking of -the sects in South Carolina, that I mentioned the Jews. It is, in fact, -in this state alone, that they appear sufficiently numerous to attract -attention. Their number is computed at about twelve hundred, of whom the -city of Charleston contains about five hundred, who, during the late -war, distinguished themselves by their courage and patriotism, -furnishing a company of sixty volunteers for the defence of the country. -The rest of the United States contains little more than five thousand -Israelites, the most of whom are of English and German origin. Those of -South Carolina are more particularly of French and Portuguese descent. -The synagogue in Charleston was built in the year 1794. Previous to this -time the Jewish congregation of this city had only a small place for the -exercise of their religious rites. According to Dr. Theact’s description -of Charleston, the Israelites began to form into a society about the -year 1750. As soon as ten of them had united, (for this is the number -required by the Hebrew law for the public exercise of their religion,) -they procured a place convenient for their purpose. The present edifice -is spacious and elegant. The society that built it is called _Kalh -kadosh beth Eloem_, that is to say, the religious society of the house -of God. _Kalh_, or _society_, is the name common to the whole Hebrew -congregation. The actual number of subscribing members is about seventy, -which gives rather more than three hundred persons having the privilege -of the synagogue, as well as the other advantages connected with this -privilege. The society of Reformists amount to about fifty members, -which, with their families, make above two hundred of this order. - -South Carolina is situated between the 32d and 33d degrees of latitude. -Its superficies contains about twenty-nine thousand square miles, the -soil being very variable. From the coast of the Atlantic to about -twenty-four miles within the interior, the country is a vast plain -rising imperceptibly about two hundred feet above the level of the sea; -its surface is divided into forests of pine, which grow in a sandy soil -of little value; extensive morasses, which render the air insalubrious -during the autumn; savannas, which produce only grass; and higher lands, -which are adapted to the growth of cotton. Rice is cultivated with -success near the rivers, whose inundations fertilize their borders. -Beyond the plain the country is mountainous, productive, and more -healthy than the lower districts, where the humidity of the rivers, and -the changeableness of temperature during the whole season, render -diseases very common. - -This state contains 502,741 inhabitants, who may be divided into three -classes; 237,460 free whites, 6,806 free blacks, and 258,465 slaves. It -appears, that the number of slaves considerably surpasses that of the -free whites, so that this state has begun to feel the inconveniences of -slavery to such a degree, that fear has induced them to adopt measures -of safety, which infringe both the laws of humanity and the rights of -property. By a recent law, every traveller, who enters Carolina with a -black servant, finds that he is immediately taken from him, imprisoned, -and only returned to him when he is about to leave the state. What is -the utility of this measure, is a question I find myself very much -embarrassed to answer. It is, say they, to prevent dangerous -communications, between the slaves of that state and the free black -strangers, who never fail to talk to them of liberty. - -This state of things in relation to slavery in South Carolina, is the -more distressing from its singular contrast with the character of the -inhabitants of that state. The Carolinians are particularly -distinguished for the cultivation of their minds, the elegance of their -manners, their politeness and hospitality towards strangers. This last -virtue is so common in Carolina, that one finds very few taverns out of -the large towns. Travellers may boldly present themselves at the houses -of the planters which they find on their road, and are sure of being -well received. The disposition to assist the indigent is so great at -Charleston, that besides a great many private associations, they have -five public charitable societies, whose revenues, already very -considerable, are still daily increased by the liberality of the -citizens. - -The three days which General Lafayette passed at Charleston were marked -by entertainments whose brilliancy and refinement delighted him; but of -all the delicate attentions that were paid him, the most touching, -perhaps, was the gift, made him by the city, of a beautiful portrait of -his friend Colonel Huger. This beautiful miniature, of an appropriate -size, unites the merit of perfect likeness with the most admirable -execution. It strongly resembles the style of our celebrated Isabey, and -would not have been disowned by him. It was executed by Mr. Frazer of -Charleston, who already enjoys a great reputation in the United States, -but has probably surpassed himself in this work. The frame of solid -gold, is more valuable for the elegance and delicacy of the workmanship -than the richness of its material. It came from the workshop of two -artists of Philadelphia, and would have done honour to our most -experienced French jewellers. - -The governor presented the general, in the name of the state, with a -beautiful map of South Carolina, enclosed in a rich case of silver. Many -other persons came also to offer handsome keepsakes, which he gratefully -accepted. - -On the 17th of March he left Charleston, carrying with him the regrets -of his friends, and the blessings of the people. - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - Fort Moultrie—Edisto Island—Alligators—Savannah—Funeral - Monuments—Augusta—State of Georgia. - - -The roads of South Carolina being generally very bad, the Charleston -committee resolved to conduct the general by sea to Savannah, where he -had been expected for some time. We embarked on the 17th of March, on -board of an elegant steam-boat, prepared and well provisioned by the -attentions of the committee, and took leave of the inhabitants of -Charleston, who, assembled on the wharf and crowding the vessels, -responded, by their acclamations, to the parting salutations of their -guest. Before losing sight of Charleston, we directed our course towards -Sullivan’s Island, upon which stands Fort Moultrie, which saluted -General Lafayette with all its guns. This fort, commanding the pass by -which the vessels are obliged to enter the port of Charleston, was -defended with extraordinary courage by the Carolinian militia, on the -28th of June, 1776, against the English forces, superior both in numbers -and experience. - -The militia were commanded by General Moultrie, who, during the -revolutionary war, sustained the highest reputation for the valour and -ability with which he defended this important post. We afterwards -continued our navigation between the continent and the islands which -border it, and extend as far as Savannah. We landed on one of these, -called Edisto, where General Lafayette was expected; but, as it was -impossible for him to remain there more than two or three hours, the -inhabitants, who were collected at one of the principal proprietor’s, -decided to offer him at once all the festivals they had prepared for -several days. We had, at the same time, the harangue, the public dinner, -the ball, and even the baptism of a charming little infant, to which the -name of Lafayette was given. We then rapidly traversed the island in a -carriage, to join our steam-boat, which awaited us on the side next the -ocean. What we saw of the island, in this short ride, appeared to us -enchanting; the vegetation was particularly striking from its variety; -odoriferous shrubs of the most elegant form, were agreeably interspersed -among large forest trees; and, in the downs which border the sea-shore, -we saw some beautiful palm-trees, which gave to the small dwellings they -shaded an aspect altogether picturesque. This island, which lies at the -mouth of Edisto river, forty miles south-west of Charleston, is twelve -miles in length and five broad. It has been inhabited since 1700. - -During the rest of our voyage to Savannah, we coasted the islands of -Hunting, Beaufort, Port Republican, Hilton Head, &c.; and often through -passages so narrow, that our vessel almost touched the land on each -side, and had rather the appearance of rolling on the surrounding -meadows, than of gliding on the water which disappeared beneath us It -was nearly midnight when we passed Beaufort, and all on board were -asleep; but we were soon awakened by the acclamations of citizens, who -were waiting on the shore, and General Lafayette having arisen, yielded -with readiness to their desire that he would land for some moments among -them. - -At sunrise, as we approached the mouth of the Savannah river, we began -to see some alligators extended on the shore, or swimming round our -vessel. Our captain shot one, and sent the boat for it. It was about -eight feet long, and we were assured that it was but of a middling size; -some of them extend to twelve feet, and sometimes even, it is said, to -fifteen or eighteen. The size of their body is then equal to that of a -horse. When of this size, the alligator is a formidable animal, from its -prodigious power and agility in the water. Its form is nearly like that -of a lizard; it differs from it only by its cuneiform tail, flattened on -the sides, and which, from the root to the extremity, diminishes -insensibly. Like all the rest of the body, it is covered with a scaly -coat, impenetrable to all arms, even to a musket-ball.[4] The head of an -alligator of the largest size is about three feet; the opening of the -jaws is of the same dimensions; its eyes are very small, sunken in the -head, and covered; its nostrils are large, and so much developed at the -summit, that, when it swims its head at the surface of the water -resembles a large floating beam. Its upper jaw, only, is moveable; it -opens perpendicularly, and forms a right angle with the lower jaw.[5] On -each side of the upper jaw, immediately below the nostrils, are two long -and strong teeth, slightly pointed and of a conical form. They have the -whiteness and polish of ivory, and being always exposed, give to the -animal a frightful aspect. In the under jaw, just opposite these two -teeth, are two sockets proper to receive them. When the alligator -strikes his jaws together, it produces a noise absolutely like that made -by slapping a board violently against the ground, and which may be heard -a great distance. - -When, on the morning of the 19th, we arrived in sight of Savannah, we -perceived all the population on the shore, and the militia assembled, -who had waited during several hours. We soon heard the majestic salute -of the artillery, and the acclamations of the people. We replied to them -by a salute from the guns of our vessel, and by the patriotic airs with -which our music caused to re-echo from the shore. To this first feeling -of pleasure caused by the reception of the citizens of Savannah, a -sentiment of painful regret suddenly succeeded. We had to separate from -our travelling companions of South Carolina. Among them were the -governor of this state, several general officers, and some members of -the committee who had received us at Charleston. The governor, faithful -to the laws which inhibited his passing beyond the limits of the state, -resisted all entreaties to induce him to land, and bade farewell to the -general with all the emotion of a child who separates himself from a -parent he is to see no more. Some minutes after, we were in Georgia, at -the entrance of Savannah, where the general was received and addressed -by Governor Troup, in the midst of an eager crowd. The triumphal car and -arches, the acclamations of the people, the wreaths and flowers -scattered by the ladies, the sound of bells and cannon, every thing -proved to Lafayette that though he had passed into another state, he was -nevertheless among the same friendly and grateful people. - -A commodious lodging had been prepared in the elegant mansion of Mrs. -Maxwell; thither they conducted General Lafayette with a grand escort. -After he had reposed some moments, the mayor and council of the city -came to compliment him, and the day was terminated by a public repast, -at which the civil and military authorities of the state and of -Savannah, the members of the bar, the clergy, and a great number of -citizens, were present. After the thirteen usual toasts, the company -offered many volunteer toasts, all strongly indicative of the patriotic -and republican character which always distinguishes American assemblies. -General Lafayette replied to the toast addressed to him, by the -following: “_To the City of Savannah_—May her youthful prosperity prove -more and more to the old world, the superiority of republican -institutions, and of the government of the people by themselves.” A hymn -to liberty, to the air _la Marseillaise_, terminated the banquet, and we -returned to our quarters by the light of an illumination which blazed -over all the city. - -The next day, Sunday, the general received, at an early hour, the visit -of the French and the descendants of Frenchmen residing in Savannah. At -their head was Mr. Petit de Villers, who spoke in their name, and who, -in a discourse fully expressive of the sentiments of his compatriots -towards Lafayette, portrayed with ardour the benefits of American -hospitality towards proscribed Frenchmen, forced by every kind of -despotism successively to demand an asylum in the United States. - -To the visit of the French, succeeded those of the officers of the -different bodies; the clergy came afterwards; at their head was the -reverend Mr. Carter, who, in complimenting the general, felicitated him -above all, that his efforts in favour of American independence had also -resulted in the establishment of religious liberty. - -To his acknowledgments, general Lafayette joined the expression of his -satisfaction in seeing America giving so good an example of true -religious liberty to old Europe, which still enjoys a very limited -toleration. “In religious, as in political societies,” added he, “I am -persuaded that the election by the people is the best guaranty of mutual -confidence.” - -The citizens of Savannah had for a long time cherished the intention of -paying a tribute of gratitude to the memory of General Greene, justly -considered as the southern hero of the revolutionary struggle; and to -that of General Pulaski, the brave Pole, who, despairing of the cause of -liberty in his own country, came to sacrifice his life in the cause of -American independence. They thought that the presence of General -Lafayette would add to the solemnity of the ceremony, and resolving to -profit by his sojourn at Savannah, obtained his consent to lay the first -stone of the funeral monuments they intended to raise. Consequently, -every thing being ready, they made the proposition, which he accepted -with the more readiness and ardour, as he was gratified to have an -occasion of publicly testifying his esteem for the character of General -Greene, to whom he had been particularly attached. - -The ceremony was strongly characterized by the association of those -exalted religious and patriotic feelings, which particularly distinguish -the actions of the American people. Agreeably to the resolution adopted -at a meeting of the citizens, of which Colonel John Shellman was -president, the masonic society, which was charged with all the details -relative to the construction of the monument, formed itself into a -procession on the 21st March, at nine in the morning, and moved to the -sound of music, to the lodgings of General Lafayette. The high priest, -the _king_ and other officers of the _royal_ chapter of Georgia, were -decorated with their finest apparel and richest masonic jewels. Before -them was carried a banner elegantly embroidered. When they marched with -the general, the procession was augmented by the militia and citizens. - -On arriving at the site of the destined monument, the troops formed a -line to the right and left to receive the procession between them. The -children of the schools uniformly dressed, and carrying baskets filled -with flowers, which they scattered beneath the steps of General -Lafayette, were already assembled. The people, collected in a crowd -behind them, seemed placed there to protect their feebleness, and to -present them to the nation’s guest. After a silence the most profound -was obtained among the attentive crowd, the masons, and the monument -committee arranged themselves at the west of the foundation, and the -other part of the procession occupied the east. General Lafayette then -advanced to the place prepared to receive the corner stone. He was -surrounded by the grand master, the grand keepers, the chaplain, the -grand priest, the king, and the secretary of the chapter of Georgia, the -governor, Colonel Huger, George Lafayette, &c. A national air, executed -by a band of musicians, announced the commencement of the ceremony. Then -the president of the monument committee advanced, and delivered a very -impressive and appropriate address, which he concluded by the following -words. - -“Very respectable grand master, in conformity with the wishes of my -fellow citizens, and in the name of the monument committee, I pray you -to celebrate, according to the rites of the ancient fraternity to which -you belong, the laying of the corner stone of the monument we are about -to raise to the memory of General Greene.” - -After the orator had made this invitation, General Lafayette made a sign -that he wished to speak, and immediately the silence and attention of -the multitude were redoubled, and all fixing their eyes upon him. He -advanced a little, and said with a solemn voice— - -“The great and good man to whose memory we this day pay a tribute of -respect, of affection and profound regret, acquired in our revolutionary -war a glory so true and so pure, that even now the name alone of GREENE -recalls all the virtues, all the talents which can adorn the patriot, -the statesman, and the general; and yet it appertains to me, his brother -in arms, and, I am proud to be able to say, his very sincere friend, to -you, sir, his brave countryman and companion in arms, here to declare, -that the kindness of his heart was equal to the force of his elevated, -firm, and enlightened mind. The confidence and friendship which he -obtained, were among the greatest proofs of the excellent judgment which -characterized our paternal chief. By the affection of the state of -Georgia towards him, the army also felt itself honoured; and I, sir, -present myself before you, before new generations, as a representative -of this army, of the deceased and absent friends of General Greene, to -applaud the honours rendered to his memory, and to thank you for the -testimonies of sympathy which you have accorded me in this touching and -melancholy solemnity, and for the part which your wishes have caused me -to take in it.” - -When the aged companion of Greene had ceased to speak, a brother of -Solomon’s Lodge, invested with masonic insignia, advanced from the -crowd, and joining his voice to the grave tones of the music, sung a -hymn, the last strophe of which was repeated in chorus by the assembled -company, and the prayer of the people ascended to heaven with the solemn -reports of the reverberating cannon. - -During this time the corner stone had been prepared; and, before placing -it, the grand chaplain, Mr. Carter, pronounced the prayer with a loud -voice. - -After this prayer, which was heard in religious silence, the grand -master ordered the secretary of the committee to prepare the different -objects which were to be placed in the foundation as memorials of the -event. These were several medals with the portraits of the nation’s -guest, of Washington, of General Greene, and Franklin; some pieces of -money of the United States, struck at different periods, and also some -paper money of the state of Georgia; some engravings, among which were -the portraits of General Charles Pinckney, and Doctor Kollock, and all -the details relative to the ceremony; lastly, a medal, on which were -these words: “The corner stone of this monument, to the memory of -General Nathaniel Greene, was laid by General Lafayette, at the request -of the citizens of Savannah, the 21st of March, 1825.” - -The stone was then lowered, amid strains of funeral music, to the bottom -of the excavation. The general then descended to the stone, and struck -it three times with a mallet; all the brethren came successively to -render their duties, and the grand priest of the royal chapter of -Georgia came, with the censor in his hand, to bless the corner stone. -When all these ceremonies were ended, the grand master remitted to the -principal architect all the objects requisite to be employed in the -completion of the monument, charging him by all the ties which bound -companions in masonry to acquit himself of his duty, in a manner -honourable to his workmen and himself. - -With these, and other ceremonies common on these occasions, the stone -was then sealed while the music played a national air. The whole was -terminated by a triple volley discharged by the United States’ troops. - -The procession then marched back in the same order as before, and -repaired to Chippeway place, where the ceremony was repeated in laying -the corner stone of the monument of Pulaski. - -Before returning to his lodgings, General Lafayette went to -Brigadier-general Harden’s to assist at a presentation of colours -embroidered by Mrs. Harden, and presented by her to the first regiment -of the Georgia militia. On these colours, very richly worked, was the -portrait of General Lafayette, and several inscriptions recalling -various glorious epochs of the revolution. The burst of enthusiasm on -receiving them extended alike to the officers and soldiers, who swore -that under these colours, presented by beauty, and consecrated by -Lafayette, they would ever be assured of vanquishing the enemies of -liberty and their country. - -Some hours after, notwithstanding the pressing entreaties of the -citizens, and above all, the ladies, who had prepared a ball for the -same evening, the general, pressed by time and his numerous engagements, -was obliged to quit Savannah, and we embarked on board the steam-boat -_Alatamaha_ with the governor of Georgia, and the committee of -arrangement, to visit Augusta, which is situated a hundred and eighty -miles from the mouth of the river Savannah. - -We found at Savannah a young man whose name and destiny were calculated -to inspire us with a lively interest; this was Achille Murat, son of -Joachim Murat, ex-king of Naples. On the earliest news of the arrival of -General Lafayette in Georgia, he precipitately quitted Florida, where he -has become a planter, and came to add his homage and felicitations to -those of the Americans, whom he now regarded as his countrymen. Two days -passed in his company, excited an esteem for his character and -understanding, not to be withheld by any who may have the same -opportunity of knowing him. Scarcely twenty-four years of age, he has -had sufficient energy of mind to derive great advantages from an event -which many others, in his place, would have regarded as an irreparable -misfortune. Deprived of the hope of wearing the crown promised by his -birth, he transported to the United States the trifling remains of his -fortune, and sufficiently wise to appreciate the benefits of the liberty -here enjoyed, he has become a naturalized citizen of the United States. -Far from imitating so many fallen kings, who never learn how to console -themselves for the loss of their former power, Achille Murat has become -a cultivator, has preserved his name without any title, and by his -frank, and altogether republican manners, has rapidly conciliated the -regard of all who know him. He possesses a cultivated mind, and a heart -filled with the most noble and generous emotions. For the memory of his -father he cherishes a profound and melancholy veneration. Mr. George -Lafayette, having cited in conversation some traits of that brilliant -and chivalric bravery which Murat so eminently possessed, he appeared to -be much affected by it; and, some moments after, when alone with me, he -said with warm emotion, “Mr. George has caused me a great happiness; he -has spoken well of my father to me.” - -The conversation turning upon European politics, he explained himself -with great freedom on the subject of the holy alliance, and, in general, -upon every kind of despotism. I could not avoid saying to him, in -pleasantry, that it was a very extraordinary circumstance to hear such -discourse from the mouth of an hereditary prince. “Hereditary prince,” -replied he with vivacity, “I have found the means to be more than such a -thing—I am a freeman!” One circumstance, however, caused me pain and -surprise, which was, that Achille Murat, free to choose his residence in -the United States, should come to establish himself exactly in the -country afflicted by slavery. This choice could only appear to me -reasonable for a man who had decided to labour all in his power for the -gradual emancipation of the blacks, and to give to his neighbours an -example of justice and humanity, in preparing his slaves for liberty; -but, I believe, this noble project has not entered into the thoughts of -our young republican, who, to judge by some peculiarities of his -conversation, seems but too well prepared to adopt the principles of -some of his new fellow citizens as to the slavery of the blacks. Is it -then, thus, that the original sin of royalty must always show the tip of -its ear?[6] - -Savannah is the most important city of the state of Georgia. It is -situated on the right bank of Savannah river, and about seventeen miles -from its mouth. Its large and straight streets cross at right angles, -and are planted on each side with a row of delightful trees, called the -_Pride of India_, and for which the inhabitants of the south have a -marked predilection. Although elevated forty feet above the level of the -river, the situation of Savannah is unhealthy; an autumn seldom passes -without the yellow fever making cruel ravages. Commerce is -notwithstanding very active there; its port, which can admit vessels -drawing forty feet, annually exports more than six millions of dollars -worth of cotton. Its population is 7523 inhabitants, divided thus: 3,557 -white individuals, 582 free people of colour, and 3,075 slaves. The -number of persons employed in the manufactories nearly equals that of -those occupied in commerce, which is about six hundred. - -On quitting Savannah, we sailed at first for more than sixty miles -between low marshy grounds whence issued many rivulets, and which was -covered by a vegetation the most rich and varied that it is possible to -imagine. Among the tallest trees we observed four or five species of -pines, nine of oak, tulip-trees, poplars, plantains, sassafras, &c., -beneath which grew more than forty kinds of shrubs, of which the form, -flower, foliage and perfume, constitute the delicacies of our most -brilliant parterres. Beyond this plain, the soil rises rapidly about two -hundred feet above the level of the sea, and presents at intervals fine -table lands, on which are established rich cotton plantations. - -As we approached Augusta, two steam-boats, crowded with a great many -citizens of that town, came to meet us, and saluted General Lafayette -with three cheers, and the discharge of artillery. We answered them by -the patriotic air of _Yankee Doodle_, and by three rounds of our guns. -They joining us we ascended the river together, each forcing the steam -in rivalry of speed. There was something frightful in this contest; the -three roaring vessels seemed to fly in the midst of black clouds of -smoke, which prevented us from seeing each other. The _Alatamaha_ was -victorious, which produced a lively joy in our brave captain, who seemed -to be a man who would blow up his vessel rather than be beaten on such -an occasion. - -The general, forced to adhere rigorously to his calculations for -travelling, had at first resolved to pass but one day at Augusta; but it -was impossible for him to resist the earnest solicitations of the -inhabitants to remain two days, that the greater part of the -preparations made for him should not become useless. He yielded, and the -entertainments they gave him were so multiplied, that for the first time -since the commencement of this prodigious journey, he suffered a fatigue -which caused us a momentary inquietude. - -Among the citizens who received the general on the wharf at Augusta, we -again met our fellow-passenger in the Cadmus, Mr. King, a young lawyer -much esteemed by his fellow citizens. This meeting was to us not only -very agreeable, but also very useful; in leaving the river Savannah, our -communications with the Atlantic would become more difficult; it was -therefore important for us to transmit our despatches from Augusta, that -our friends in Europe might once more have news from us before we should -have entirely passed into the interior of the country; and Mr. King had -the goodness to undertake to forward them after our departure, as well -as some effects which we retrenched from our baggage, in order to -lighten ourselves as much as possible, for we foresaw that we were going -to travel the worst roads that we had yet encountered since leaving -Washington. - -The day after our arrival, the general was engaged to visit, on the -other side of the Savannah river, a sort of prodigy, which proves to -what extent good institutions favour the increase of population, the -developement of industry, and the happiness of man. It is a village -named Hamburg, composed of about a hundred houses, raised in the same -day by a single proprietor, and all inhabited in less than two months by -an active and industrious population. This village is not yet two years -old, and its port is already filled with vessels, its wharves covered -with merchandise, and its inhabitants assured of a constantly increasing -prosperity. Hamburg being on the right bank of the Savannah, belongs to -South Carolina. - -On the 25th we left Augusta, which is well built and containing more -than four thousand inhabitants, to visit Milledgeville, passing through -Warrenton and Sparta. The general was very affectionately received in -each of these small towns; but we found the roads every where in a bad -condition, and so much broken up, that we were obliged to travel a part -of the way on horseback. Happily the carriage in which the general rode, -resisted all accidents, but it was near breaking down twenty times. The -first day the jolts were so violent, that they occasioned General -Lafayette a vomiting which at first alarmed us, but this entirely ceased -after a good night passed at Warrenton. - -We arrived on the 2d of March, on the banks of little river Oconee, near -to which Milledgeville, the capital of Georgia, is built. This town, -which, from the dispersion of its houses, and the multitude and extent -of its beautiful gardens, rather resembles a fine village than a city, -containing a population of two thousand five hundred souls, among whom -General Lafayette was received as a father and friend. The citizens, -conducted by their magistrates, came to receive him on the banks of the -river, and the aids-de-camp of the governor conducted him with pomp to -the state house, which claimed the honour of lodging him. The day was -passed in the midst of honours and pleasures of every kind. After the -official presentation in the state house, where the general was -addressed by an American citizen of French descent, Mr. Jaillet, mayor -of Milledgeville; after the visit which we made to the lodge of our -masonic brethren, and the review of all the militia of the county, we -dined with Governor Troup, who had assembled at his house all the public -officers and principal citizens, with whom we spent the evening at the -state house, where the ladies of the place had prepared a ball for -General Lafayette; but at this ball there was neither possibility nor -wish for any one to dance; each, anxious to entertain or hear the -nation’s guest, kept near him, and seized with avidity the occasion to -testify gratitude and attachment. Affected almost to tears with the -kindness evinced towards him, the general completely forgot that Georgia -was a new acquaintance. He also forgot, it seemed, that to-morrow we -were to depart early in the morning, and that some hours of repose would -be necessary, as he passed a great part of the night in conversing with -his new friends. - -Before continuing the narrative of the subsequent journey, which -conducted us from the bosom of the most advanced civilization, into the -centre of still savage tribes, the aboriginal children of America, I -shall make some observations on the state of Georgia. - -This state, situated between the 30th and 35th degrees of north -latitude, and the 3d and 9th of longitude west from Washington, is -bounded on the north by the state of Tennessee, to the north-east by -South Carolina, to the south-east by the Atlantic ocean, to the south by -Florida, and to the west by the state of Alabama. Its surface is 58,000 -square miles, and its population 340,989 inhabitants, of which nearly -150,000 are slaves; a proportion truly alarming, and which will, some -day, bring Georgia into an embarrassing situation, if its government -does not adopt some measure to diminish the evil. Here, as in all the -slave states, the blacks are goods and chattels, which are sold like any -other property, and which may be inherited; but their introduction into -the state as an object of commerce is severely prohibited. According to -existing laws, a person who brings into the state a slave, which he -sells or exposes to sale within the year immediately succeeding his -introduction, is subjected to a penalty of one thousand dollars, and an -imprisonment of five years in the state prison. The prejudices against -the coloured race is very strong among the Georgians, and I have not -remarked that they have made any great efforts for the abolition of -slavery; the laws even interpose a barrier to gradual emancipation, for -a proprietor cannot give liberty to his slave without the authority of -the legislature. The ancient code of slavery introduced by the English, -and which was a code of blood, is fallen into disuse, and has been -supplied by some laws protective of the slaves. Thus, for example, -whoever now designedly deprives a slave of life or limb, is condemned to -the same punishment as if the crime had been committed on a white man, -except in a case of insurrection; but we feel that this law is to be -administered by judges who are themselves slave-holders, and under the -influence of the same prejudices as their fellow citizens; thus may one -say with truth, that if the slaves of Georgia do not perish under the -whip of their master, as too often happens in the French colonies, it is -owing solely to the naturally mild and humane dispositions of the -Georgians, and not to the efficacy of the laws, which admit that a slave -_may accidentally die on receiving moderate correction_, without the -author of the infliction being guilty of murder. - -Georgia, it is said, was that one of the ancient colonies in which the -revolution obtained the fewest suffrages. The royal party, for a long -time, preserved there a great influence, which, augmented by the -presence of a numerous body of English, under the orders of Colonel -Campbell, maintained the royal government until the end of the war; thus -the patriots had more to suffer in Georgia than elsewhere. - -It was not until 1798, that the constitution, which had been adopted in -1785 and amended in 1789, was definitively and vigorously enforced by a -general assembly of the representatives. This constitution is very -nearly similar to that of South Carolina. - -If Georgia is not yet one of the richest states of the Union, by the -abundance and variety of its productions, the cause should be attributed -to the influence of slavery alone. No country, perhaps, is more favoured -by nature than this, and all the products of the most opposite climates -may be easily and abundantly drawn from its soil. The seashores and the -adjacent islands produce six hundred pounds of long cotton per acre, of -which the medium price is thirty cents per pound; and the same soil will -produce four crops without manure. Sugar may be cultivated in the same -soil, with an equal success. The white mulberry grows there in such -quantities, that Georgia could easily liberate the United States from an -annual tribute of several millions which they pay to Europe, if the -culture of silk was confided to skilful and interested hands; that is to -say, to the hands of freemen. Tea grows without culture in the -neighbourhood of Savannah; in some choice places, three crops of indigo -are annually produced; and, in the interior, the lands produce -abundantly of grain and maize; finally, pulse and fruits of all kinds -grow here with an unusual facility. But to fertilize the sources of such -abundant riches, there are requisite an industry and activity, rarely -possessed by men accustomed to confide the care of their existence to -the devotedness of unhappy beings brutalised by slavery.[7] - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Departure from Milledgeville—Macon—Indian Agency—Meeting with Indians - during a Storm—Hamley—M’Intosh’s Tribe—Uchee Creek—Big - Warrior—Captain Lewis—Line Creek—Montgomery—Farewell of - M’Intosh—Cahawba—State of Alabama—Mobile. - - -On the 29th of March, after having taken leave of the citizens of -Milledgeville, and expressed our thanks to the committee of arrangement, -the authorities of the town and the state, for the kindnesses with which -we had been loaded, we resumed our route with some aides-de-camp of -Governor Troup, who, with a skilful foresight, had previously arranged -every thing, so that the general should experience the inconveniences -inevitably to be encountered, as little as possible, in a journey across -a country without roads, towns, and almost without inhabitants; for, to -enter the state of Alabama, we had to traverse that vast territory which -separates it from Georgia, and which is inhabited by the Creek nation; a -people which civilization has blighted with some of its vices, without -having been able to win them from the habits of a wandering and savage -life. - -The first day, after travelling for some hours, we arrived at Macon to -dinner, where the general was received with enthusiasm by the citizens, -and a number of ladies, whose elegance and manners formed a singular -contrast to the aspect of the country we had traversed. Macon, which is -a small and handsome village, tolerably populous, did not exist eighteen -months since; it has arisen from the midst of the forests as if by -enchantment. It is a civilized speck lost in the yet immense domain of -the original children of the soil. Within a league of this place, we are -again in the bosom of virgin forests; the summits of these aged trees, -which appear as records of the age of the world, waved above our heads, -and, when agitated by the winds, gave rise alternately to that shrill or -hollow tone, which Chateaubriand has termed the voice of the desert. The -road we pursued was a kind of gulley or fissure, over the bottom of -which the general’s carriage was with difficulty drawn, and often at the -risk of being shattered in pieces; we followed on horseback, and arrived -in the evening at the Indian agency. - -This is an isolated habitation in the midst of the forests, built during -the last year for the conferences between the Indian chiefs and the -commissioners of the United States. It was there that the treaty was -formed, by which the tribes inhabiting the left bank of the Mississippi -consented to retire to the right bank, on the payment of a considerable -sum of money to them. The year 1827 was assigned as the time for their -evacuation, and it is not without sorrow that the Indians find that it -is drawing near; they will relinquish with regret the neighbourhood of -civilized man, although they detest him; and accuse their chiefs of -having betrayed them in making this cession, which, it is said, has -already cost the life of M’Intosh, one of the chiefs who signed the -treaty. - -We passed the night at the Indian agency; we had been expected the -evening before by about a hundred Indians, among whom the name of -Lafayette has existed by tradition for fifty years; but the delays we -had met with had exhausted their patience, and they had gone to prepare -for our reception elsewhere. On the second day we had to traverse -thirty-two miles over a road which became more and more difficult. A -storm, such as is never seen in Europe, and which, however, I cannot -pause to describe, now assailed us, and forced us to halt for some -hours. Happily we found a shelter in a cabin built by an American, not -far distant from the road. Some Indian hunters, accustomed, no doubt, to -seek refuge here, were drying their garments around a large fire; we -took our place among them without being known, or attracting any -particular attention. Mine, on the contrary, was strongly excited by -this interview, the first of the kind I had met with. I had heard much -of the manners of these sons of nature, and, like every inhabitant of a -civilized country, I entertained such singular ideas respecting them, -that the slightest of their gestures, and every minutiæ of their dress -and accoutrements, induced an astonishment which the Indians did not -appear to share in seeing us. As far as I could, by signs, I proposed a -multitude of questions, to which they replied by a pantomime, which was -at once expressive and laconic. I had heard much of the apathy of -Indians as a natural faculty, but also singularly augmented in them by -education. I wished to make a few experiments on this point, but did not -know how they would receive them. I provoked one of them by hostile -gestures; but my anger, though tolerably well assumed, did not appear to -excite more emotion than the tricks of a child would have done. He -continued his conversation without attending to me, and his countenance -expressed neither fear nor contempt. - -After some other trials of the same kind, always received with the same -calm indifference, I recurred to signs of kindness; I offered to the -Indians a glass of brandy: this succeeded better. They emptied it. I -showed them some pieces of money, which they took without ceremony. I -soon quitted them, and it appeared to me that we separated very good -friends. The termination of the storm now permitted us to resume our -route, and we arrived at a resting place rather better than that of the -preceding evening. This was a group of cabins constructed of logs, and -covered with bark. The owner was an American, whom a reverse of fortune -had forced to take refuge here, where he carried on a lucrative trade -with the Indians by exchanging goods from the coast for furs. His small -farm was composed of some acres in tolerable cultivation, a well -furnished poultry yard, and the dwelling I have spoken of above. On -arrival, we found two Indians seated before his door, one young, the -other middle aged, but both remarkable for their beauty and form. They -were dressed in a short frock, of a light material, fastened around the -body by a wampum belt. Their heads were wrapped with shawls of brilliant -colours, their leggings of buckskin reached above the knee. They arose -on the approach of the general, and saluted him, the youngest, to our -great astonishment, complimenting him in very good English. We soon -learnt that he had passed his youth in college in the United States, but -that he had withdrawn several years before from his benefactor, to -return among his brethren, whose mode of life he preferred to that of -civilized man. The general questioned him much as to the state of the -Indian nations. He replied with much clearness and precision. When the -last treaty of the United States was spoken of, his countenance became -sombre, he stamped on the ground, and, placing his hand upon his knife, -murmured the name of M’Intosh in such a manner, as to make us tremble -for the safety of that chief; and when we appeared to be astonished, -“M’Intosh,” exclaimed he, “has sold the land of his fathers, and -sacrificed us all to his avarice. The treaty he has concluded in our -name, it is impossible to break, but the wretch!” He stopped on making -this violent exclamation, and shortly afterwards quietly entered on some -other topic of conversation. - -Hamley, (the name of the young Indian,) when he found we were somewhat -rested, proposed to us to visit his house, which he pointed out to us on -the slope of a hill at a little distance. Two of the governor’s -aides-de-camp and myself accepted the invitation, and followed the two -Indians. On our route they showed to us a fenced enclosure, filled with -deer and fawns, which they called their reserve, and which served them -for food when they had been unsuccessful in the chase. Hamley’s cabin -adjoined this enclosure. We entered it. There was a large fire on the -hearth, and evening having commenced, the whole building was illuminated -by the flame of the burning pine wood. The furniture consisted of two -beds, a table, some rude chairs, whilst wicker baskets, fire arms, and -bows and arrows, with a violin, were hanging on the walls. The whole -arrangement indicated the presence of man in a half civilized state. -Hamley’s companion took down the violin, and handling the instrument -with vigour rather than lightness and grace, played some fragments of -Indian airs, which induced a desire of dancing in Hamley, but whether -from courtesy, or from a wish of inducing a comparison which would -result to his own credit, he begged us to begin. The grave Americans who -accompanied me, excused themselves. Being younger, or less reserved, I -did not wait for a second invitation, and executed some steps of our -national dances; this was all that Hamley desired. I saw him throw off -every thing that might embarrass him, seize a large shawl, and -triumphantly spring into the centre of the apartment, as if he would -say, it is now my turn. His first movements, slow and impassioned, -gradually became animated, his movements, incomparably bolder and more -expressive than those of our opera dancers, soon became so rapid that -the eye could scarcely follow them. In the intervals, or when he halted -for breath, his steps softly beating time to the music, his head gently -inclined, and gracefully following the movements of his pliant body, his -eyes sparkling with an emotion which reddened the coppery hue of his -complexion, the cries that he uttered when he awoke from this reverie in -order to commence his rapid evolutions, had the most striking effect -upon us, which it is impossible to describe. - -Two Indian women, whom I afterwards learned were Hamley’s wives, -approached the house, during the time that it resounded with his -exertions, and our plaudits, but they did not enter, and I therefore -merely saw them. They had the usual beauty of this race; their dress was -composed of a long white tunic, and a scarlet drapery thrown over their -shoulders; their long black hair was wholly unconfined. On their neck, -they had a necklace of four or five strings of pearls, and in their -ears, those immense silver rings so generally worn by Indian women. I -believed, from their reserve, that Hamley had forbidden them to enter, -and therefore made no inquiries respecting them. There were also some -negroes about the house, but they did not appear to be slaves. They were -fugitives to whom he had granted an asylum, and who repaid his -hospitality by their labour. - -I would willingly have remained several days as Hamley’s guest and -companion in the chase; but we were obliged to continue our journey. We -retired, and the next day, the 31st March, resumed our route. As we -plunged deeper into this country of forests, the Indian soil seemed to -efface from our minds those prejudices which induce civilized man to -endeavour to impose his mode of life on all those nations who still -adhere to primitive habits, and to consider the invasion of districts in -which this pretended barbarity still exists, as a noble and legitimate -conquest. It must, however, be stated, to the praise of the Americans, -that it is not by extermination or war, but by treaties, in which their -intellectual superiority, it is true, exercises a species of gentle -violence, that they pursue their system of aggrandizement against the -Indian tribes to the west and north. With them, civilization is not -sullied by crimes to be compared with those of Great Britain in India, -but in rendering this justice to them, we, at the same time, cannot help -feeling a strong interest in the fate of the unhappy Indians. Thus, in -meeting at every turn the bark cabin of the Creek hunter, now the -habitation of peace and savage yet happy ignorance, we could not think -without sorrow how soon it might be overthrown and replaced by the farm -of the white settler. It was on the banks of the Chatahouche that we met -with the first assemblage of Indians, in honour of the general. A great -number of women and children were to be seen in the woods on the -opposite bank, who uttered cries of joy on perceiving us. The warriors -descended the side of a hill at a little distance, and hastened to that -part of the shore at which we were to disembark. The variety and -singular richness of their costumes presented a most picturesque -appearance. Mr. George Lafayette, who was the first that landed, was -immediately surrounded by men, women, and children, who danced and -leaped around him, touched his hands and clothes with an air of surprise -and astonishment, that caused him almost as much embarrassment as -pleasure. All at once, as if they wished to give their joy a grave and -more solemn expression, they retired, and the men ranged themselves in -front. He who appeared to be the chief of the tribe, gave, by an acute -and prolonged cry, the signal for a kind of salute, which was repeated -by the whole troop, which again advanced towards the shore. At the -moment the general prepared to step on shore, some of the most athletic -seized the small carriage we had with us, and insisted that the general -should seat himself in it, not willing, as they observed, that their -father should step on the wet ground. The general was thus carried in a -kind of palanquin a certain distance from the shore, when the Indian -whom I have spoken of as the chief, approached him and said in English, -that all his brothers were happy in being visited by one who, in his -affection for the inhabitants of America, had never made a distinction -of blood or colour; that he was the honoured father of all the races of -men dwelling on that continent. After the chief had finished his speech, -the other Indians all advanced and placed their right arm on that of the -general, in token of friendship. They would not permit him to leave the -carriage, but dragging it along, they slowly ascended the hill they had -previously left, and on which one of their largest villages was -situated. - -During our progress I drew near to the Indian chief; I supposed that as -he spoke English, that he, like Hamley, had been educated in the United -States, and this I found to be the case. He was about 28 years of age, -of a middle height; but the symmetry of his limbs was perfect, his -physiognomy noble, his expression mournful; when he was not speaking he -fixed his large black eyes, shaded by a heavy brow, steadfastly on the -ground. When he told me that he was the eldest son of M’Intosh, I could -not recall, without emotions of sorrow, the imprecations I had heard -poured forth against this chief, on the preceding evening. This, in all -probability, occasioned the air of depression and thoughtfulness I -remarked in the young man; but what I afterwards learned in conversation -with him explained it still more satisfactorily; his mind had been -cultivated at the expense of his happiness. He appreciated the real -situation of his nation, he saw it gradually becoming weaker, and -foresaw its speedy destruction; he felt how much it was inferior to -those which surrounded it, and was perfectly aware that it was -impossible to overcome the wandering mode of life of his people. Their -vicinity to civilization had been of no service to them; on the -contrary, it had only been the means of introducing vices to which they -had hitherto been strangers; he appeared to hope that the treaty which -removed them to another and a desert country, would re-establish the -ancient organization of the tribes, or at least preserve them in the -state in which they now were. - -When we arrived at the brow of the hill we perceived the glitter of -helmets and swords; troops were drawn up in line along the road. These -were not Indians; they were civilized men, sent by the state of Alabama -to escort the general. The singular triumphal march to which he had been -obliged to submit, now ceased. The Indians saw with some jealousy the -American escort range themselves round the general; but we approached -the village, and they ran on in order to precede us. We there found them -on our arrival, with their garments thrown off, and prepared to afford -us a sight of their warlike games. - -We arrived on a large plain, around which were situated about an hundred -Indian huts, crowned by the rich verdure of the dense thickets; one -house was distinguished for its greater size, it was that of the -American agent. He also kept an inn, and his wife superintended a school -for the instruction of the Indian children. All the men were assembled, -deprived of a part of their dress, their faces painted in a grotesque -manner, and some wearing feathers in their hair, as a mark of -distinction. They then announced to us that there would be a mock fight -in honour of their white father. In fact, we soon perceived them -separate into two divisions, and form two camps at the two extremities -of the place, appoint two leaders, and make preparations for a combat. -The cry that was uttered by each of these troops, and which we were told -was the war-whoop of the Indian tribes, is, perhaps, the most -extraordinary modulation of the human voice that can be conceived, and -the effect it produced on the combatants of all ages, was still more so. -The sport began. They explained the plan to us as follows: Each party -endeavoured to drive a ball beyond a certain mark, and that which -attained this object seven times would be the victor. We soon saw the -combatants, each armed with two long rackets, rush after the light -projectile, spring over each other in order to reach it, seize it in the -air with incredible dexterity, and hurl it beyond the goal. When the -ball was missed by a player, it fell to the ground, when every head was -bent, a scene of great confusion ensued, and it was only after a severe -struggle that the players succeeded in again throwing it up. In the -midst of one of these long combats, whilst all the players were bent -around the ball, an Indian detached himself from the group to some -distance, returned on a run, sprung into the air, and after making -several somersets, threw himself on the shoulders of the other players, -leaped into the circle, seized the ball, and for the seventh time cast -it beyond the mark. This player was M’Intosh. The victory was obtained -by the camp which he commanded; he advanced to receive our -congratulations under a shower of applause from a part of the Indian -women, whilst the wives of the vanquished appeared to be endeavouring to -console them. - -The general, after this game, which much amused him, visited the -interior of some of the huts, and the Indian school. When we were ready -to resume our journey, young M’Intosh re-appeared dressed as an -European. He requested permission from the general to accompany him to -Montgomery, where he wished to carry his brother, who was about ten -years of age, in order to place him under the care of a citizen of -Alabama, who had generously offered to educate him. The general -consented to it, and we all set out for Uchee Creek, an American tavern, -situated on the banks of a creek of that name. We arrived at that place -at an early hour, and visited the neighbourhood, which was charming. -Accompanied by M’Intosh, I soon made an acquaintance with the Indians of -that district. We found them exercising with the bow. I wished to try my -skill, M’Intosh likewise armed himself; he had the arm and eye of -William Tell. Some proofs of his skill would scarcely be credited were I -to relate them. I was most struck with the skill, with which, whilst -lying on the ground, he discharged an arrow, which, striking the ground -at a few paces distance, made a slight rebound, and flew to an immense -distance. This is the mode employed by the Indians when they wish to -discharge their arrows to a great distance without discovering -themselves. I tried in vain to accomplish it; each time my arrow, -instead of rebounding, buried itself in the earth. - -We returned to Uchee Creek, and met an Indian chief on his way to the -tavern. He was on horseback, with a woman behind him. When he arrived -within a few paces of the house, he dismounted and went forward to -salute the general, and to make some purchases. During this time his -wife remained with the horse, brought it to him when he wished to -depart, held the bridle and stirrup when he mounted, and afterwards -sprung up behind him. I asked my companions if this woman was the wife -of the Indian, and if such was the condition of the females of the -nation. They replied, that in general they were treated as we had seen; -in the agricultural districts they cultivated the ground, among the -hunters they carried the game, the culinary utensils, and other -necessary articles, and thus loaded could travel great distances, that -even maternal cares scarcely exonerated them from these laborious -occupations. However, in the excursions I afterwards made in the -environs of Uchee Creek, the condition of the women did not appear to me -as unhappy as I was led to expect. I saw before almost all the houses -the women sitting in circles, engaged in weaving baskets or mats, and -amusing themselves with the games and exercises of the young men, and I -never remarked any signs of harshness on the part of the men, or of -servile dependence on the part of the women. I was so hospitably -received in all the Indian cabins at Uchee Creek, and the country around -was so beautiful, that it yet appears to me as the most beautiful spot I -ever visited. From Uchee Creek to the cabin of Big Warrior, which is the -nearest resting place, is about a day’s journey, through a country -inhabited by Indians. We several times met parties of them, and were -greatly assisted by them in extricating ourselves from dangerous places -in the road, for the storm had encumbered them, and swelled the streams. -On one of these occasions, the general received a touching specimen of -the veneration these sons of nature held him in. One of the torrents we -were to cross had risen above the unnailed wooden bridge over which the -carriage of the general was to proceed. What was our astonishment, on -arriving at the stream, to find a score of Indians, who, holding each -other by the hand, and breast deep in water, marked the situation of the -bridge by a double line. We were well pleased at receiving this succour, -and the only recompense demanded by the Indians, was to have the honour -of taking the general by the hand, whom they called their white father, -the envoy of the Great Spirit, the great warrior from France, who came -in former days to free them from the tyranny of the English. M’Intosh, -who interpreted their discourse to us, also expressed to them the -general’s and our own good wishes. The village of the Big Warrior is -thus named on account of the extraordinary courage and great stature of -the Indian who was its chief. We arrived there at a late hour; the chief -had been dead some time; the council of old men had assembled to name -his successor, and had designated one of his sons, remarkable for the -same strength of body, as worthy of filling his place. This son had much -conversation with Mr. George Lafayette; he expressed himself in English, -and astonished us by the singular apathy with which he spoke of the -death of his father. But the Indians have not the slightest idea of what -we call grief and mourning. Death does not appear an evil to them, -either as regards the person who has quitted this life, or those who are -thus separated from him. The son of Big Warrior only appeared to regret -that the death of his father, which had occurred a short time before, -did not permit him to dispose of his inheritance, and to present one of -the dresses of this celebrated chief to the general. - -We only passed one night with the family of Big Warrior; the next day we -arrived at Line Creek, that is to say, at the frontier of the Indian -country. We were received there by an American who had married the -daughter of a Creek chief, and had adopted the Indian mode of life. He -was a Captain Lewis, formerly in the army of the United States; his -house was commodious, and was furnished with elegance for an Indian -cabin. Captain Lewis, who is distinguished for his knowledge and -character, appeared to us to exercise great influence over the Indians; -he had assembled a great number, well armed and mounted, to act as an -escort to the general. One of the neighbouring chiefs came at the head -of a deputation to compliment the general. His discourse, which appeared -studied, was rather long, and was translated to us by an interpreter. He -commenced by high eulogiums on the skill and courage the general had -formerly displayed against the English; the most brilliant events of -that war was recalled and recounted in a poetical and somewhat pompous -strain. He terminated somewhat in these words: “Father, we had long -since heard that you had returned to visit our forests and our cabins; -you, whom the Great Spirit formerly sent over the great lake to destroy -those enemies of man, the English, clothed in bloody raiment. Even the -youngest amongst us will say to their descendants, that they have -touched your hand and seen your figure, they will also behold you, for -you are protected by the Great Spirit from the ravages of age—you may -again defend us if we are attacked.” - -The general replied, through the interpreter, to these compliments of -the Indians; he again counselled them to be prudent and temperate; -recommended their living in harmony with the Americans, and to always -consider them as their friends and brothers; he told them that he should -always think of them, and would pray for the welfare of their families -and the glory of their warriors. We now directed our course to the -stream which separates the Creek country from the state of Alabama. The -Indians under Captain Lewis, mounted on small horses as light and nimble -as deer, some armed with bows and arrows, and others with tomahawks, -followed us in a long file, the rear of which was hidden in the darkness -of the forest. On arriving at the brink of the stream, they turned back, -uttering loud cries; some of the chiefs, however, bid us a final adieu -as we left their territory. - -We passed the night on the banks of Line Creek, in a small village of -the same name, almost entirely inhabited by persons whom the love of -gain had assembled from all parts of the globe, in the midst of these -deserts, to turn to their own profit the simplicity and above all the -new wants of the unfortunate natives. These avaricious wretches, who -without scruple poison the tribes with intoxicating liquors, and -afterwards ruin them by duplicity and overreaching, are the most cruel -and dangerous enemies of the Indian nations, whom, at the same time, -they accuse of being robbers, idlers, and drunkards. If the limits to -which I had determined to restrain my narrative had not already been -overstepped, I could easily show, that these vices with which they -reproach the children of the forest, are the result of the approach of -civilization, and also in how many instances they are surpassed by the -whites in cruelty and want of faith. I will content myself with citing -but two facts from the thousands, which are an eternal stigma on men so -proud of the whiteness of their skin, and who call themselves civilized. - -A short time since, a trader, living in the state of Alabama, went into -the Creek country for the purposes of his business. Having met with one -of the chiefs of the nation, he bargained with him for peltries; but, as -the conditions he proposed were all disadvantageous to the Indian, to -induce him the more readily to consent to them, he intoxicated him with -whiskey. After the bargain was concluded, they set out together for the -nearest village. On the way, the Indian reflected on what he had done, -and perceived that he had been duped; he wished to enter into some other -arrangement with the trader, but the discussion soon caused a violent -quarrel, which ended by the Indian striking his adversary so violent a -blow with his tomahawk, as to stretch him dead at his feet. Twenty-four -hours afterwards, on the first complaint of the whites, the murderer was -arrested by his own tribe, who, after having assembled their great -council, pronounced him guilty of a base assassination, in thus having -killed a white who was without arms or means of defence. They then -conducted him to the banks of Line Creek, where they had requested the -whites to assemble to witness the justice they rendered them, and shot -him in their presence. - -The evening of our arrival at Line Creek, I went into a store to make -some purchases, and whilst there, an Indian entered and asked for twelve -and a half cents worth of whiskey. The owner of the shop received the -money, and told him to wait a moment, as the concourse of buyers was -very great. The Indian waited patiently for a quarter of an hour, after -which he demanded his whiskey. The trader appeared astonished, and told -him if he wanted whiskey he must first pay him for it. “I gave you -twelve and a half cents a few moments since,” said the Indian. The poor -wretch had scarcely pronounced these words, when the trader sprung -forward, seized him by the ears, and, assisted by one of his men, -brutally turned him out of the shop. I saw him give the money, and was -convinced of the honesty of the one and the rascality of the other. I -felt strongly indignant, and notwithstanding the delicacy of my -situation, I would have stept forward to interfere, but the whole scene -passed so rapidly that I hardly had time to say a few words. I went out -to see what the Indian would do. I found him a few steps from the house, -where he had been checked by his melancholy emotions. An instant -afterwards, he crossed his arms on his breast, and hurried towards his -own country with rapid strides. When he arrived on the margin of the -stream, he plunged in and crossed it without appearing to perceive that -the water reached above his knees. On attaining the other side, he -stopped, turned round, and elevating his eyes towards heaven, he -extended his hand towards the territory of the whites, in a menacing -manner, and uttered some energetic exclamations in his own language. -Doubtless, at that moment he invoked the vengeance of heaven on his -oppressors; a vengeance that would have been just, but his prayer was in -vain. Poor Indians! you are pillaged, beaten, poisoned or excited by -intoxicating liquors, and then you are termed savages! Washington said, -“Whenever I have been called upon to decide between an Indian and a -white man, I have always found that the white had been the aggressor.” -Washington was right. - -The conduct of the American government is of an entirely different -character, as regards the Indian tribes. It not only protects them -against individual persecution, and sees that the treaties made with -them by the neighbouring states are not disadvantageous to them, and are -faithfully adhered to, but it also provides for their wants with a -paternal solicitude. It is not a rare circumstance for congress to vote -money and supplies to those tribes, whom a deficient harvest or -unforeseen calamity have exposed to famine. - -We quitted Line Creek on the 3d of April, and the same day General -Lafayette was received at Montgomery, by the inhabitants of that -village, and by the governor of the state of Alabama, who had come from -Cahawba with all his staff and a large concourse of citizens, who had -assembled from great distances to accompany him. We passed the next day -at Montgomery, and left it on the night of the 4th and 5th, after a -ball, at which we had the pleasure of seeing Chilli M’Intosh dance with -several beautiful women, who certainly had little idea that they were -dancing with a savage. The parting of M’Intosh with the general was a -melancholy one. He appeared overwhelmed with sinister presentiments. -After having quitted the general and his son, he met me in the -courtyard; he stopped, placed my right arm on his, and elevating his -left hand towards heaven, “Farewell,” said he, “always accompany our -father and watch over him. I will pray to the Great Spirit also to watch -over him, and give him a speedy and safe return to his children in -France. His children are our brothers; he is our father. I hope that he -will not forget us.” His voice was affected, his countenance sad, and -the rays of the moon falling obliquely on his dark visage, gave a -solemnity to his farewell with which I was deeply moved. I wished to -reply to him, but he quitted me precipitately and disappeared. - -At two o’clock in the morning, we embarked on the Alabama, on board the -steam-boat Anderson, which had been richly and commodiously prepared for -the general, and provided with a band of musicians sent from New -Orleans. All the ladies of Montgomery accompanied us on board, where we -took leave of them; and the moment the reports of the artillery -announced our departure, immense fires were lighted on the shore. Our -voyage as far as the Tombigbee was delicious. It is difficult to imagine -any thing more romantic than the elevated, gravelly, and oftentimes -wooded shores of the Alabama. During the three days we were on it, the -echoes repeated the patriotic airs executed by our Louisiania musicians. -We stopped one day at Cahawba, where the officers of government of the -state of Alabama had, in concert with the citizens, prepared -entertainments for General Lafayette, as remarkable for their elegance -and good taste, as touching by their cordiality and the feelings of -which they were the expression. Among the guests with whom we sat down -to dinner, we found some countrymen whom political events had driven -from France. They mentioned to us, that they had formed part of the -colony at Champ D’Asile. They now lived in a small town they had founded -in Alabama, to which they had given the name Gallopolis. I should judge -that they were not in a state of great prosperity. I believe their -European prejudices, and their inexperience in commerce and agriculture, -will prevent them from being formidable rivals of the Americans for a -length of time. - -Cahawba, the seat of government of Alabama, is a flourishing town, whose -population, although as yet small, promises to increase rapidly, from -its admirable situation at the confluence of the Cahawba and Alabama. - -The state of Alabama, which, like Mississippi, was formerly part of -Georgia, and with which its early history is intimately connected, -received a territorial governor from congress in 1817, and was admitted -into the federation as an independent state in 1816. Its population, -which in 1810 was only 10,000, had risen to 67,000 in 1817, and is at -present 128,000. In this estimate of the population I do not include the -Indian tribes of Choctaws, Cherokees, and Chickasaws, residing in the -east and west of the state. - -From Cahawba we descended the river to Claiborne, a small fort on the -Alabama. The general was induced by the intreaties of the inhabitants to -remain a few hours, which were passed in the midst of the most touching -demonstrations of friendship. Mr. Dellet, who had been appointed by his -fellow citizens to express their sentiments, acquitted himself with an -eloquence we were astonished to meet in a spot, which, but a short time -before, only resounded with the savage cry of the Indian hunter. - -A little below Claiborne, I remarked that the banks of the Alabama were -much lower; when we had passed the mouth of the Tombigbee, we found -ourselves in the middle of low marshy meadows, but apparently very -fertile. Finally, we arrived on the 7th of April, in Mobile bay, at the -bottom of which is situated a city of the same name. - -The distance we had traversed in three days, and which was more than -three hundred miles, on account of the windings of the river, formerly -required a month or six weeks in ascending, and half the time in -descending. This shows what a prodigious revolution the application of -steam to navigation will effect in the commercial relations of a -country. - -The city of Mobile, which is the oldest establishment in the state, is -very advantageously situated for commerce, on a beautiful plain, -elevated more than twenty feet above the general level of the water. -This town had languished for a long time, under the despotism of the -Spanish inquisition, and the wretched administration of the French -government. It has often been devastated by the yellow fever. At -present, all its wounds are healed; a few years of liberty have sufficed -to render it prosperous. When the Americans took possession, it did not -contain more than two hundred houses; at present, its population is more -than 1800 souls. Formerly it scarcely exported four hundred bales of -cotton; this year it has despatched upwards of sixty thousand. - -The arrival of the steam-boat in the bay, was announced by discharges of -artillery from Fort Conde; and when we reached the wharf at Mobile, the -general found the committee of the corporation and all the population -assembled to receive him. He was conducted to the centre of the town -under a triumphal arch, the four corners of which were adorned with the -flags of Mexico, the republics of South America and Greece. In the -centre was that of the United States. Here he was complimented by Mr. -Garrow in the name of the city, and in presence of the municipal body. -He was then led to an immense hall, expressly constructed for his -reception. He there found all the ladies, to whom he was presented by -the governor; after which Mr. Webb addressed him in the name of the -state. In his speech, the orator retraced with much truth, the debased -situation into which despotism and ignorance had formerly plunged the -city of Mobile, and the rich territory that surrounded it; he then -painted the rapid and increasing progress that liberty and republican -institutions had produced in the arts, in industry and commerce, which -had now rendered these very spots rich and prosperous; he attributed -this happy change to the glorious and triumphant exertions of the -revolutionary patriots, whose courage and constancy had been sustained -by the noble example of Lafayette; and he terminated by expressing his -regret that the efforts of the French patriots had not resulted in -consequences equally beneficial to their country. - -In returning his thanks to the orator and the citizens of Alabama, the -general took a rapid survey of the struggles for liberty in which he had -borne so important a part, and concluded by expressing his deep -conviction of the necessity of the closest and most intimate union among -the states. - -The inhabitants of Mobile, hoping that the general would pass some days -with them, had made great preparations for entertainments to him, but -the most part were rendered useless. Limited in his time, he was obliged -to yield to the solicitations of the deputation from New Orleans, who -pressed him to depart the next morning. Nevertheless he accepted a -public dinner, a ball and a masonic celebration; after which we went on -board the vessel which was to take him to New Orleans, to obtain a few -hours of that repose, which a day filled with so many pleasant emotions -had rendered absolutely necessary. - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Departure from Mobile—Gulf of Mexico—Passage of the Balize—Landing at - the entrenchments near New Orleans—Entrance into the - city—Entertainments and Public Ceremonies—Battle of New Orleans. - - -The vessel on board of which we had retired, on leaving the ball, was -the Natchez, an excellent and handsome steam-boat, sent by the city of -New Orleans to transport the general from Mobile to the shores of the -Mississippi. An experienced captain, Mr. Davis, commanded her; she had -on board the Louisiania deputation, at the head of which was Mr. -Duplantier, an old friend and companion in arms of the general. At the -break of day, cannon were heard, at which signal we weighed anchor. The -general stationed on the deck, received the farewell of the citizens who -pressed in crowds to the shore, and testified their sorrow by expressive -gestures and a gloomy silence. In half an hour, the city of Mobile -disappeared from the horizon, which enlarged around us, and in a short -time the smoke of the artillery, tinged by the rays of the rising sun, -also became invisible. When night returned, it found us in the Gulf of -Mexico. - -To reach New Orleans, we might choose between two routes; either behind -Dauphin, Horn, Dog, Ship, or Cat islands, traversing lakes Borgne and -Pontchartrain, and disembarking a few miles in the rear of the city, or -else boldly cross the gulf to the mouth of the Mississippi, pass the -Balize and ascend the river. Our captain, confident of the solidity of -his vessel, decided on the latter plan, which was not unattended with -danger, but it gained us a whole day. We soon repented of his -determination. A storm arose in a short time. The motion of the vessel -became so disagreeable that we were obliged to lie down to avoid the sea -sickness which attacked almost all of us. During the night, the wind -greatly augmented, and the waves became so high, that several of them -entering the ports, inundated the cabin and our beds. The noise of the -wind, waves, and engine, with the creaking of the vessel, were so -horrible, that we expected to founder every moment. At break of day I -ascended to the deck, from whence I beheld the most imposing and awful -spectacle; we arrived at the Balize. We could not avoid feeling a strong -emotion at the sight of this magnificent river, whose rapid stream and -prodigious breadth announced rather a conqueror than a tributary of the -ocean. Its waves repelling, to a great distance, those of the sea, -heaped on the low islands at its mouth, thousands of immense trunks of -trees, which, after having flourished for ages under the polar circle, -were now decaying under the burning sky of Mexico, and feeding a new -vegetation with their remains. Enormous alligators of a sinister -appearance and sluggish gait, attached to the floating trunks of trees, -menaced the navigator, and seemed to dispute the entrance of the river -with him. For a long time after we had entered the Mississippi we -thought ourselves in another sea, so distant are its shores, and so -tumultuous are its waves. It was not until after some hours that it -became sufficiently narrow for us to perceive its muddy banks, or that -the stream diminished in swiftness. - -In the morning we passed fort Plaquemine, from which we were saluted -with thirteen guns, and night again surprised us before we could -perceive the walls of New Orleans. No variety in the vegetation is -perceptible for sixty miles from the Balize. Hitherto nothing was to be -seen but cypresses covered with the sombre tillandsia, called by the -natives of the country, Spanish beard. This parasitic plant, which forms -a long and dense drapery on the trees, has a more melancholy appearance, -from its only growing in countries subject to the yellow fever. It is -said to afford food to those animals which seek a shelter in the woods -during the winter. The inhabitants of Louisiana employ it to stuff -matrasses and cushions; for these purposes, after having washed it in an -alkaline solution, they beat it till the husk is detached; when it is -dry it has the appearance of long black hair. It is so durable as to be -considered incorruptible. It is employed with success in building, mixed -with mortar or tenacious earth. - -About midnight, I went on deck for a short time; the night was dark, the -sky charged with thick clouds, and the air filled with a hoarse noise. -The batteries at New Orleans were then firing a salute of a hundred -guns, to announce that the day on which the guest of the nation would -arrive, was commencing. - -Next morning we awoke near those famous lines where twelve thousand -picked English troops were overthrown by a few hundred men, the half of -whom bore arms for the first time. Astonished at the cries of Vive la -liberté, vive l’ami de l’Amerique! vive Lafayette! in the French -language, we hastened on deck. What was our surprise on seeing the shore -covered with French uniforms! For an instant we believed that we were -transported back to the bosom of our country, once more freed, and our -hearts beat with joy. General Lafayette disembarked in the midst of the -thunder of artillery, and the acclamations of an immense multitude, who, -regardless of the badness of the weather and the distance from the town, -crowded the levee. He was received by a numerous escort of cavalry, and -by the twelve marshals who had been appointed to direct the procession. -Leaning on the arm of his ancient companion in arms, Mr. Duplantier, and -of General Villeré, he proceeded to the house of Montgomery, which had -been Jackson’s head quarters on the day when he covered himself with -glory by his admirable defence of his lines. The governor of the state -there waited for him, and received him in the name of the people of -Louisiana. - -The speech of the governor, depicting Frenchmen enjoying a liberty which -is still considered in France as problematical, made a deep impression -on the general, and he replied to it with much emotion. - -At the conclusion of his reply, every one that could force an entrance -into the house were presented to him in turn. There were a great number -of the veterans of the revolution, and among others, Colonel -Bruian-Bruin, who had served at the siege of Quebec, where the brave -General Montgomery perished; Judge Gerrard, who fought at Yorktown, -Colonel Grenier, who, after having gloriously assisted in the three -revolutions of America, France, and Colombia, still preserved at seventy -years of age, all the courage and fire of youth. A great number of -ladies also came down to meet the general, and offered him their -congratulations through Mr. Marigny, on his safe arrival in Louisiana. -After all the presentations had been gone through, the procession was -formed, and, notwithstanding the violence of the rain, we took up the -line of march to the city. We advanced but slowly, from the denseness of -the crowd, which, as we approached the city, blocked up both the road -and the levee. When we arrived at the outskirts of the town we met with -bodies of troops drawn up in two lines, through which we passed to the -sound of martial music. Notwithstanding the badness of the weather, the -general proceeded along these lines on foot, and before he again entered -the carriage returned his thanks to the commanding officers. The -procession again moved on, augmented by the troops falling into the -rear, and, as it advanced, the crowd became still greater in spite of -the continuance of the storm. This immense concourse of people, the view -of the triple row of houses adorned with hangings, bordering the river -side, the sound of the artillery and bells, and the prolonged -acclamations of the whole population, produced a sensation which it is -difficult to describe; at last, in the midst of these testimonies of -strong affection, the general arrived at the barrier of the public -square, and was conducted by the committee of arrangement under a -triumphal arch of admirable architecture and excellent design. This -monument was sixty feet in height, forty of which were below the -springing of the arch, by fifty-eight in breadth; the arcade was twenty -feet wide, and twenty-five long; it rested on a socle imitating -Sera-Veza marble; the base, forming a pedestal of green Italian marble, -was decorated with colossal statues of Justice and Liberty. This -allegorical basement supported an arch of the doric order, adorned with -four coupled columns on each face. The key-stones were composed of -twenty-four stones, each decorated with a gilt star, united by a fillet, -on which was engraved the word, _Constitution_, thus representing the -twenty-four states connected by one common tie. The pediment, in -imitation of yellow Verona marble, supported two figures of Fame with -trumpets, and carrying banners entwined with laurel, having on them the -names of Lafayette and Washington; the whole was surmounted by the -national eagle. The upper socle supported an entablature of seven feet, -on which was inscribed, in English and French, “A grateful republic -dedicates this monument to Lafayette.” On the top of the monument was a -group representing Wisdom resting her hand on a bust of the immortal -Franklin, and the four angles were decorated with rich national -trophies. The names of the signers of the declaration of independence, -and those of officers who had distinguished themselves during the war of -the revolution, were inscribed on various parts of the arch. This -beautiful edifice, designed by Mr. Pilié, and executed by Mr. Fogliardi, -presented a striking appearance, and the reliefs had an admirable -effect. - -Under this monument the general was received by the municipal body, at -the head of whom was the mayor, Mr. Roffignac, who addressed him in the -name of the citizens of New Orleans. - -In expressing his thanks to Mr. Roffignac, the general did not permit -such an occasion to escape him, of paying a tribute of esteem to the -memory of the father of this worthy magistrate. “On my entrance into -this capital,” said he, “I feel penetrated with gratitude for the -reception I have met with from the people of New Orleans and its worthy -mayor, whose name recalls to a cotemporary of his father’s, -recollections of courage and loyalty.” Mr. Roffignac appeared extremely -affected by this testimony of the general’s to the exalted character of -his father, and the tears that escaped from his eyes proved the depth of -his feelings. - -After leaving the triumphal arch, the general was conducted, amidst the -acclamations of an immense crowd, to the city hall, where he was -complimented by Mr. Prieur in the name of the city council; from here we -went to the hotel of the municipality, where our quarters had been -prepared, and which the people of New Orleans designated by the name of -the “Lafayette house.” After taking a few moments of repose, the general -went out on a balcony to review the troops. All the detachments that -passed were remarkable for the elegance of their uniform, and the -exactness of their discipline. The grenadiers, the voltigeurs, Union -guards, chasseurs, New Orleans guards, Lafayette guards, each in turn -attracted the attention of the general. But when, in the rear of the -riflemen, whose name recalls so many recollections of gallantry, he -perceived a file of a hundred Choctaws, marching, according to the -Indian custom, in a single line, he was much gratified to see, that, by -a delicate attention, they had shown him that his name was familiar to -the warriors of the most distant nations, and that they had admitted -among their troops, these brave Indians, who had been the allies of the -Americans in the Seminole war, and, who, for nearly a month past, had -been encamped near the city, in order to see the “great warrior,” “the -brother of their great father Washington.” - -The next day, the general received the visits of the vice president of -the house of representatives, and of those members of the legislature -who were then in the capital, and immediately afterwards the gentlemen -of the bar, headed by Mr. Derbigny, who had been chosen their orator, -were presented to him. In a discourse filled with noble thoughts, and -pronounced with a touching eloquence, Mr. Derbigny eulogised with -delicacy and address, that rectitude of mind, and firmness of character, -which, during political tempests, had always guided Lafayette in the -path of justice, and preserved him from participating in the excesses of -party. - -In his reply, the general, carefully avoiding any allusion to the -eulogies that had been heaped upon him, confined himself to the -consideration of the general interests of Louisiana, and the individual -exertions of those who complimented him; he felicitated the citizens of -that state, after having been governed by the criminal laws of France -and Spain, that they gradually ameliorated them, and were still occupied -in perfecting this part of their code, to such a degree, that it might -even serve as a guide to the rest of the United States, whose criminal -laws are already so superior to those of every other people. - -Being strongly urged to visit both the French and American theatres on -the same evening, the general decided by lot which he would attend the -first; chance was in favour of the American. We went there at seven -o’clock, and were received with an enthusiasm that cannot be described; -they gave an appropriate piece, of which neither he nor the audience -could appreciate the merit, as every eye was attracted by the hero of -Yorktown, who completely withdrew all attention from the representation -of the Prisoner of Olmutz. He afterwards went to the French theatre, -where they were impatiently expecting his appearance. When he entered, -the violence of the plaudits, and the repeated cries of “_Vive -Lafayette_,” suspended the representation. Every body rose; it was like -Themistocles appearing at the Olympic games: at last, calm being -re-established, the general took his seat in the box that had been -prepared for him, and saw with pleasure the last act of that charming -comedy, _L’Ecole des Vieillards_, which seemed to me to be as much -relished by my former countrymen, the Americans of Louisiana, as by the -inhabitants of Paris. Before he retired, the general heard an ode which -was performed to his honour, all the allusions of which were applauded -with enthusiasm. - -In the course of Tuesday morning, a deputation of the Spanish emigrants -and refugees presented themselves to compliment the general; and, above -all, to testify their gratitude for the manner in which he opposed, in -the Chamber of Deputies in France, the invasion of Spain, and the -destruction of the liberal constitution. - -The general, whose principles had led him to oppose, with all his -energy, a measure disapproved of by France—a measure which had produced -such disastrous results to Spain, and the heroic victims of which were -now before him, was deeply affected by the expressions of gratitude now -showered upon him; and, in an eloquent and impressive reply, paid his -tribute of esteem, admiration, and regret, to the memory of the -unfortunate Riego; he had already, on more than one occasion, openly -expressed his opinion on the unhappy death of that generous martyr to -liberty, and the whole American nation had partaken of the same -feelings, for the consistent and courageous defender of the revolution -in the peninsula. - -On the following day, many other deputations waited on General -Lafayette, and expressed to him their attachment, and devotion to his -principles. Among them were those of the militia staff, of the medical -society, of the clergy, and of the free blacks, who, in 1815, -courageously assisted in the defence of the city; and our two last -evenings were occupied, the one by a public ball, and the other by a -masonic dinner. I will not attempt to describe these entertainments, -which, from the beauty, elegance, and amiability of the ladies, the -enthusiasm and frank cordiality of the citizens, the sedulous and -delicate attentions of the magistrates, the richness and profusion of -the details, equalled any thing we had ever met with. - -Nevertheless, in the midst of the pleasures thus afforded him by the -Louisianians, the general experienced moments of inquietude and sorrow. -Sinister rumours reached him; he was told of a serious dispute between -the staff and the officers of the militia, on the subject of certain -prerogatives of the legion, denied by one, and insisted on by the others -with equal warmth, which might produce bloody results after the -departure of him whose presence was a curb even on the most headstrong. -In so serious an affair he did not hesitate on using all his influence -to reconcile citizens, whom a moment of error and a false point of -honour had temporarily divided; he, therefore, invited all the officers -of the different corps to meet at his house. When they arrived, he told -them that they were, doubtless, aware of his reasons in thus bringing -them together; that he was informed of what had passed, and the evil -consequences that would ensue; he observed, that he felt that he was the -cause, however unwillingly, and could he have foreseen such unpleasant -circumstances, he should have written to decline their invitation. He -begged them to consider the injurious reports it would occasion as -regarded all parties, and concluded by begging that they would accept of -him as a mediator. - -One of the superior officers immediately advanced, and with an -honourable frankness said to him, “General, I place my honour in your -hands, and now agree to whatever you may dictate.” The eldest of the -complainants then observed, “General, I also confide my honour, and that -of my comrades, who freely agree with me, in your keeping.” The general -took a hand of each of these brave men, and having united them, had the -satisfaction of seeing the happiest concord established between men, who -an instant before had renounced the pleasing title of brothers in arms. -This interesting scene had many witnesses, who soon promulgated the -details. The news of it was received with astonishing enthusiasm, as it -was a sincere reconciliation between all that Louisiana cherished and -revered. - -General Lafayette had intended to visit the scene of the battle of the -8th of January, but the continuance of stormy weather, and the necessity -for his complying in two or three days to all the kind invitations that -were heaped upon him, obliged him to relinquish the idea. A colonel of -the staff, who witnessed the chagrin this sacrifice occasioned me, had -the goodness to propose that I should accompany him, whilst the general -was paying some private visits. I accepted his invitation with -eagerness, and we immediately set out in a carriage he sent for. On the -way he informed me that he was born in France; that placed, from his -birth, in the privileged class of society, he had, from his infancy, -been brought up in the aristocratic prejudices of his caste; and that, -although very young at the epoch of the French revolution, he believed -it his duty to defend the rights of a few against the natural and sacred -rights of the many, and that he had joined the Vendeans. “Then,” said -he, “I believed in the legitimacy of an absolute monarchy, and in the -hereditary succession of virtue, with all the fervour of ignorance, and -I at first fought for them, with all the courage and devotion of -fanaticism; but the campaign had not terminated before my reason, -bursting the bonds with which education had loaded it, taught me, that -instead of combating, as I had believed, for justice and truth, I was -merely the instrument of a few men, determined to sacrifice every thing, -even their country, to their own private interests, and I sheathed my -sword, which I ought never to have drawn in so unjust, so absurd a -cause.” He went on to say, that he would have re-entered France, but was -deterred by the scenes of bloodshed and confusion then so prevalent in -that country. He, therefore, sought in other lands that happiness he was -denied at home. After traversing all Europe, and every where finding the -same criminal alliance of royalty, nobility, and clergy, against the -welfare and interests of the people, he finally settled in the United -States. He added, “I had only lived at New Orleans a short time, when, -in 1815, the inveterate enemies of the liberty of others in both -hemispheres presented themselves before that city. I flew to arms, happy -in finding an occasion of proving my gratitude to my new country, and my -sincere attachment to the principles which governed it, and I am happy -in being able to say, that my presence was not wholly useless on the -field of battle we are about to visit.” - -My companion had scarcely uttered these words, when our carriage -stopped, and we stept out near the extreme right of the lines. Before -examining them, the colonel had the goodness to explain to me the -operations that preceded and brought on the battle of the 8th. I -understood, from these details, how difficult it had been for General -Jackson, with the handful of men he had at his disposition, to oppose -the landing and rapid progress of an army of 15,000 men, or quadruple -his own. - -The position chosen by the American general to wait for reinforcements, -and to arrest the advance of so formidable an enemy, appeared to me to -be very judicious. He threw up entrenchments about five miles below the -city, along an old canal, the left of which was lost in the depths of a -swampy wood, whilst the right rested on the river. The total length of -this line was about eight hundred toises, but as three hundred toises of -the left were unassailable, the enemy was confined in his attack to a -front of about five hundred toises, and obliged to advance in full view -over a perfectly level plain. Nevertheless, whether from want of time, -or want of reflection, General Jackson committed two serious errors; the -first was in erecting his entrenchment in a straight line, and at right -angles to the river, so that he not only deprived himself of the -advantage of cross fires, but he also exposed himself, if the English, -more skilful or fortunate, had sent a few vessels up the river in the -rear of his lines; he exposed himself, I say, to the danger of having -had his whole line enfiladed by the enemy’s artillery. The other fault -was, erecting his second line at so great a distance from the first, -that if this had been forced, he would never have been enabled to have -gained the other, and his troops would have been cut to pieces in the -interval. These two faults would have sufficed, as may readily be -supposed, to compromit the safety of an army more numerous and better -disciplined than that of General Jackson; but the destiny of American -liberty, or rather the supernatural courage of the citizens, who, on -that day, fought for the preservation of their independence, and the -safety of their families, with the inflexible firmness of Jackson -himself, shaded with the laurels of a most brilliant victory those -faults which would have destroyed a less patriotic army. - -I will record the details, which were given me with great clearness and -precision, of all the operations that preceded that glorious day. I -refer those who wish to study them to the excellent memoir of Mr. -Lacarriere Latour, and to the equally distinguished accounts of Messrs. -Brackenridge and Mac Fee; but I cannot resist the desire of now -retracing some of the most brilliant acts which saved Louisiana, and -immortalized its defenders. - -Notwithstanding all his exertions, General Jackson was unable to collect -for the defence of his entrenchments more than 3,200 men, and fourteen -pieces of cannon of different calibers, pressed for time, he had been -obliged to form the upper part of his works with bales of cotton, -brought down from the city. He remained twenty-four hours in this -position, expecting an attack every instant, when, on the 8th of -January, at break of day, he perceived the English army, 12,000 strong, -advancing on him in three columns, the most formidable of which menaced -that part of his left wing, defended by the Tennessee and Kentucky -militia. Each soldier, besides his arms, carried fascines or a scaling -ladder, and marched in the most profound silence. The Americans -permitted them to advance within half cannon shot, and then opened on -them a terrible fire of artillery, to which the English replied by three -cheers, and the flight of some Congreve rockets, and then hurried their -march, closing their ranks as they were mowed down by the shot. This -coolness and determination, which seemed as if it would ensure them a -speedy victory, did not last long. The moment they arrived within musket -shot, the Tennesseans and Kentuckians commenced a fire of small arms, -which instantly broke their columns, and forced them to seek for shelter -behind some thickets, which covered their right. It is true, that -infantry never kept up so constant and destructive a fire, as that of -these intrepid American militia. The men, arranged six deep, loaded the -arms, and rapidly passed them to the front rank, composed of able -marksmen, each of whose balls carried certain death to the enemy. - -Whilst the English officers, with a courage worthy of a better cause and -of a happier destiny, endeavoured to rally their scattered troops, to -lead them to a fresh assault, an American artilleryman, in the battery -commanded by Lieutenant Spotts, perceived in the plain, a group of -officers, agitated and dismayed, carrying off some one with some -difficulty. “It is perhaps the commander-in-chief and only wounded,” -exclaimed he, “he must not escape so.” He levelled his piece against -them, fired, and Packenham the English commander was killed in the arms -of his friends. The desire for revenge now rallied the English; officers -and soldiers pressed forward in a new column, led on with fury by Kean -and Gibbs, the successors of Packenham. But the fire of the Americans -redoubled in intensity and precision; Kean and Gibbs successively fell, -the one mortally, the other dangerously wounded, and the column again -broken, disappeared, leaving only its wreck on the plain. - -Whilst in the centre of the line the American troops were thus crushing -their adversaries, without the loss of a single man, fortune seemed as -if she wished to try them on the right by a reverse. Twelve hundred -English, led by a daring chief, rapidly advanced along the river, and -unexpectedly fell on a small redoubt, defended by a company of riflemen -and one of the 7th regiment. The Americans, surprised at this point, at -first retired in some disorder. General Jackson, whose vigilant eye let -nothing escape, at this decisive moment perceived an English officer -mounted on the entrenchments, brandishing in one hand his sabre, and -with the other assisting his soldiers to scale the rampart. Jackson -hastened to the spot, met the runaways, arrested their flight, and, in a -terrible voice, demanded of their commander who had given him orders to -retreat. “The enemy has forced our entrenchments,” replied the captain. -“Well,” answered Jackson in a severe voice, “go back and with your -bayonets force them out.” This order was immediately executed. In an -instant the English, who at first thought themselves victors, fell under -the blows of the Americans. Among the slain, was the intrepid Colonel -Rennie, an ancient French emigrant who had entered the English service; -the same that had been seen so boldly surmounting the rampart, aiding -and encouraging his soldiers in the assault. - -This battle, which decided the fate of New Orleans, and perhaps even of -Louisiana, only lasted three hours, and cost the Americans but seven men -killed and six wounded, whilst the English left near three thousand men -and fourteen pieces of cannon on the field. General Lambert, the only -one of the English generals in a state to command, ordered a retreat, -and hastened to seek shelter for himself and the wreck of his army, on -board Admiral Cochran’s fleet, who, the evening before, had said with -his accustomed boasting, that if he were ordered to attack the American -lines, he would carry them in less than half an hour, with two thousand -sailors, sabre in hand. - -Thus, a small army, composed of citizens hastily collected, and -commanded by a general whose military career had just commenced, beheld -an English army, which passed for one of the bravest and most -experienced in Europe, and which boasted it had expelled the French from -Spain, fall before its patriotic efforts. - -When I returned to the city, I found General Lafayette surrounded by -numbers of ladies and citizens of all ranks, who, knowing that he would -leave them the next morning, mournfully came to bid him farewell, and -once more to take him by the hand. In the crowd I remarked some -ecclesiastics, and among them a capuchin, whose dress being new to me -had attracted my attention on the day of our arrival. The account I -heard of him interested me strongly, and may perhaps be equally so to my -readers. - -Father Anthony, for such is his name, is a venerable capuchin friar of -the order of St. Francis, and has resided in Louisiana for many years. -Animated by an ardent and sincere piety, Father Anthony prays in silence -for all the world without asking prayers of any one. Placed in the midst -of a population composed of different sects, he does not think it right -to trouble their consciences by endeavours to gain proselytes. -Sometimes, as being a capuchin, Father Anthony asks alms, but it is only -when he has some good action in view, and his slender funds, exhausted -by his constant charity, deny him the power of doing it himself. Every -year, when the yellow fever, in stretching its murderous hand over New -Orleans, drives the terrified inhabitants to the country, to seek an -asylum against disease and death, the virtue of Father Anthony shows -itself in all its brilliancy and force. During this time of dread and -grief, how many unhappy wretches, abandoned by their friends or even by -their relations, have owed their recovery and life to his exertions, his -care, his piety. Of all those he has saved, (and there are many,) there -is not one who can say, “before he lavished his care on me, did he ask -of what religion I was.” Liberty and charity, such is the moral code of -Father Anthony; hence he is not in favour with the bishop. When he came -to visit the general, he was dressed, according to the custom of his -order, in a long brown robe, tied about his middle with a thick cord. -The moment he perceived him, he threw himself into his arms, exclaiming, -“O my son, I have found favour before the Lord, since he has thus -permitted me to see and hear the worthiest apostle of liberty!” He then -conversed a few moments with him in a tone of the most tender affection, -complimented him on the glorious and well-merited reception he had met -with from the Americans, and modestly retired into a corner of the room, -apart from the crowd. I took advantage of this, to approach and salute -him. How deeply was I touched by his conversation!—what sweetness! what -modesty! and at the same time what enthusiasm! Every time that he spoke -of liberty his eyes sparkled with a sacred light, and his looks were -fastened on him he termed his hero, on Lafayette. “How happy must he -be,” said he, “how pure is the source of all his glory! with what -transport he must contemplate the result of his labours and sacrifices! -Twelve millions of men happy and free through him! Yes! this man is -certainly beloved by God. He has done so much good to others.” He came -again to see us the morning before our departure. When the crowd had -quitted the room, and he was left alone with the general, he hastened to -him, and pressing him with transport to his bosom, “Adieu, my son,” -cried he, “adieu, best beloved general! Adieu! may the Lord attend you, -and after the termination of your glorious journey, conduct you to the -bosom of your beloved family, to enjoy in peace the recollection of your -good actions and of the friendship of the American people. O, my son, -perhaps you are still reserved for new labours! Perhaps the Lord may -make you the instrument of freeing other nations. Then, my son, think of -poor Spain! Do not abandon my dear country, my unhappy country!” The -tears flowing from his eyes, moistened his long beard, whitened by age; -his voice was interrupted by sobs; and the venerable old man, leaning -his forehead on the shoulder of Lafayette, remained in this attitude a -few moments, still murmuring, “My son, my dear son, do something for my -unhappy country.” It was not without deep emotion that the general tore -himself from the arms of this pious patriot, who, before he retired, -also bestowed his benediction on Mr. George Lafayette. - -But the 15th being fixed for our departure, from the dawn of day the -avenues to the general’s apartment were filled with even a greater -assemblage than that of the evening before. There were present a great -number of ladies, and particularly crowds of children brought by their -parents, that they might contemplate the features of the benefactor of -the country, the friend of the great Washington. The general left the -house on foot. Cries of _Vive Lafayette_ were heard on every side. In -crossing the parade ground, on which were several companies of the -legion and troops of the line, lining the avenues, he expressed his -gratitude to all the officers whom he met; he again testified to Mr. -Gally, the captain of artillery, how much he appreciated the merit of -the fine corps he commanded; and, as he understood that this officer -intended going to France in a short time, he begged him, in the most -pressing manner, to have the goodness to carry news of him to his family -at La Grange. He got into a carriage at the extremity of the parade -ground, to proceed to the place of embarkation, where the steam-boat -that was to take him to Baton-Rouge now waited for him. The levee was -crowded by an innumerable concourse of people. The balconies, roofs of -the houses, all the shipping and steam-boats which were near this spot, -were filled with spectators; and, when he went on board, he was saluted -by a prolonged acclamation, but it was not repeated, and more than ten -thousand persons remained in a state of profound silence, until the -Natchez was out of sight. The artillery only was heard at intervals, -giving a solemnity to this separation that was profound and universal. - -The governor and his staff, the mayor and municipal body, the committee -of arrangement, to whom we owed so many and great obligations, embarked -with us to prolong for a few moments the pleasure of being with the -general; but at two miles from the city, the most of them were obliged -to leave us. It was not without profound regret that we separated from -these worthy officers, whom we had only known for a few days, it is -true, but yet sufficiently long to appreciate them fully. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - History and Constitution of Louisiana—Baton-Rouge—Natchez—State of - Mississippi—Voyage to St. Louis—Reception of General Lafayette in - that city. - - -For a long time after the French had founded large and prosperous -establishments in Canada, they were ignorant of the existence of the -Mississippi; when some of their traders learnt from the Indians with -whom they trafficked, that to the westward of their country there was a -great river, that communicated with the Gulf of Mexico. This was in the -year 1660. Three years afterwards Mr. De Frontenac, governor of Canada, -wishing to verify this assertion, sent a Jesuit missionary, father -Marquette, at the head of a small detachment to discover this country. -The Jesuit ascended Fox river to its source, from thence traversing the -Wisconsin, he descended to the mouth of the Mississippi, and found that -the account of the Indians was true. - -Twenty years afterwards, Count Robert de la Salle not only proved the -existence of this river, but ascertained that it offered an easy -communication with the ocean. He descended it from the river Illinois to -the Mexican gulf, whilst father Hennepin, a franciscan, ascended it as -far as the falls of St. Anthony, situated three hundred miles above that -river. Count Robert took possession, in the name of the king of France, -his master, of the whole course of the river with the adjacent country, -and erected some forts for the protection of the settlers, which, as the -soil appeared very rich, he expected to see arrive in great numbers. -Nevertheless, it was not until 1699, that the first settlement was made -at Biloxi, by a celebrated French naval officer, Lemoine d’Iberville, -who was the first to enter the Mississippi from the sea, and ascended -the river as far as Natchez, which he chose for the capital of -Louisiana, calling it Rosalie, in honour of the name of Chancellor -Pontchartrain’s lady. To people this new capital, some young girls and -well selected soldiers were sent from France. These last were married to -the girls and exempted from military duty. Each colonist was allowed -some acres of land, a cow and calf, cock and hens, a gun; half a pound -of powder and two pounds of lead, with a month’s provisions, were -distributed to them monthly. Next came missionaries, which, instead of -improving the land by the labour of their hands, or developing the -resources of the colonists by their wisdom and councils, began to preach -to the neighbouring Indians, in order to convert them to the catholic -faith. The fruits of these labours soon began to appear; that is to say, -the Indians pretended to listen to the new doctrines which were spread -before them, and became hypocrites for the sake of obtaining brandy. -This liquor, which was the first reward of their conversion, exasperated -all the passions to which they were unfortunately predisposed; and from -this time they became the most dangerous and cruel enemies of the -settlement, instead of the useful neighbours which they would doubtless -have been, if, without interfering with the manner in which they -worshipped God, their friendly alliance only had been sought. -Nevertheless, in the course of a few years, the cordiality and -gentleness of the French character counteracted the unhappy influence of -the missionaries, and almost all the savage tribes with the exception of -the Chickasaws, made peace with the colonists and rendered them -important services. Mr. de Bienville, the brother of Iberville, and at -that time governor of Louisiana, yielding to his ardour for research, -explored the greater part of the rivers tributary to the Mississippi, -and laid the foundations of some new settlements on its banks. But none -of these succeeded. The number of colonists had considerably diminished, -when, in 1712, Antony Crozat, who by the Indian trade, had amassed a -fortune of forty millions, purchased the grant to the whole of -Louisiana, with the exclusive right of its trade for six years. His -letters patent included all the rivers emptying into the Mississippi and -all the lands, coasts and islands situated upon the gulf of Mexico, -between Carolina on the east and Mexico on the west. But Crozat was not -long in discovering how much the expectations he had founded upon this -country were exaggerated, and hastened to renounce his contract for the -purpose of obtaining another for the period of twenty-five years, in -favour of the Mississippi Commercial Company, of which the celebrated -Law was the projector. But this company was not more fortunate than -Crozat. Instead of enticing into the colony such settlers as would have -added to its prosperity, he received only rich and avaricious -adventurers, who were attracted by the report of the mines of gold and -silver, with which the country was said to abound, and, disappointed in -their hopes, quickly returned to Europe. In spite of the efforts of the -government instituted by the commercial company, the proprietaries were -soon reduced to despair, and established military posts, where they -defended themselves until reinforcements were received. The first -expedition that arrived was composed of criminals and women of abandoned -character, sent out by the French government. The company were justly -indignant at this, and declared, that in future they would not suffer -the colony to be thus morally and physically polluted. - -In 1718, New Orleans, consisting of a few cabins built by Illinois -traders, and thus named in honour of the regent Duke of Orleans, passed -under the jurisdiction of the governor-general, M. de Bienville, and -received a considerable number of new settlers. Two villages were built -in its vicinity by Germans, under the command of Arensburg, a Swedish -captain, who, in 1709, had fought by the side of Charles XII. at the -battle of Pultowa. The colony now began really to prosper, and in 1723 -swarms of capuchins, missionaries, jesuits, and pious ursulines, began -to arrive from all directions. These last at least were good for -something. They were entrusted with the education of orphan girls, and -the superintendance of the military hospital, with a pension of fifty -thousand crowns per annum. Intolerance, the inseparable accompaniment of -all privileges, and especially those of religion, began to show itself -in the colony, as soon as the capuchins, jesuits, &c. made their -appearance. In 1724, a royal edict expelled the Jews, as declared -enemies to the Christian name, and they were ordered to disappear in the -course of three months, under penalty of imprisonment and confiscation -of property. It was thus that the throne and church watched then, as it -did before, and has done since, to dry up the most abundant sources of -public prosperity. In 1729, the intrigues of England raised the Indians -against the colony, and thus gave a sad blow to its prosperity. The war -then carried on by General Perrier de Salvert, had a fortunate -termination. Meanwhile it was only through the attachment of some Indian -women to a few French officers, that the garrison escaped being totally -massacred one night; which would have led to the entire destruction of -the colony. In consequence of these late hostilities, and the base -intrigues carried on in the metropolis, the colonists lost their time -together with the fruits of their labours. The company, disgusted and -deceived in their hopes of gain, abandoned the country, which, in 1731, -returned under the dominion of the king, without being any better -governed. In 1759, its financial affairs were in such disorder, that the -treasury owed more than seven millions of francs, although the French -government had expended for various services in Louisiana, nearly double -the amount it had derived from it. Louis XV., at the close of a war -badly conceived, and, in 1763, as badly terminated, having lost Canada, -was upon the point of having Louisiana taken from him. But his -ministers, assisted by Madame Pompadour, his mistress, obtained fifteen -millions from the court of Madrid, and this colony was ceded to Spain -with such secrecy and despatch, that the governor of Louisiana had not -yet received information of the affair when the Spanish ships of war -arrived at the mouth of the Mississippi, with the officers appointed to -take possession of this immense territory. The governor and inhabitants -of Louisiana refused to recognise the Spanish authority, so that the -commissioners were obliged to return to Europe. Three or four years -passed in negotiating with the colonists, who persisted in continuing -under the dominion of France. At length, in 1769, Spain becoming -provoked, sent out General Reilly with considerable forces. Arrived -before New Orleans, Reilly manifested the most conciliatory disposition. -His proclamations only spoke of oblivion for the past, and were -completely successful. The commotions ceased, and the Louisianians -surrendered themselves. As a sign of reconciliation, Reilly gave a grand -entertainment on board his fleet, to which he invited the chief officers -of the colony, and principal inhabitants. These accepted the invitation -with confidence, but at the moment when they were about to leave the -table, Reilly caused them to be seized by his soldiers and shot. One of -these, M. De Villeré, had his life spared, but was put on board a -frigate to be transported to the prisons of Navarre. His wife and -children, informed of the fate that threatened him, wished to go and -petition his highness, or at least to receive his farewell. They were -already near the frigate, from which he stretched out his arms to them, -when the unhappy man fell within their sight, pierced by the bayonets of -the villains whom the traitor Reilly had appointed to guard him. - -After this horrible execution, the Spaniards, with four thousand troops -of the line, and a considerable train of artillery, entered New Orleans, -the inhabitants of which were struck dumb. The English protestants, and -a few Jews, who had escaped the force of the royal decree of 1724, were -soon banished by the new authorities. All commerce with the colony was -prohibited except with Spain and her possessions. A court martial was -established, and its iniquitous decisions struck at all the French -officers who remained. Of these, five were shot, and seven others -thrown, for ten years, into the prisons of Havana. The infamous Reilly, -having for a whole year gorged himself with blood and plunder, at length -set sail, carrying with him the scorn and hatred of the whole -population. His successors in the government had great difficulty in -doing away the effects of his crimes, and it is due them to say that -they succeeded. During thirty-three years of Spanish dominion, the -colony enjoyed peace and prosperity, and to this very day, the names of -Don Unsuga, Don Martin Navarro, and Don Galvar, are remembered there -with veneration. - -During all the changes experienced by Louisiana, its boundaries had -never been determined with accuracy. In 1795, the government of the -United States made a treaty with Spain, in virtue of which the limits -were traced, and the free navigation of the Mississippi secured to the -two contracting parties. But notwithstanding this treaty the owners of -privateers, and crews of vessels of war, made spoliations upon the -commerce of the United States. Free navigation of the Mississippi, and -permission of landing at New Orleans, were refused the Americans. -President Adams, therefore, immediately took measures to obtain redress. -Twelve regiments were raised, and an expedition fitted out upon the Ohio -to descend to Louisiana. But some changes occurring in American politics -caused this project to be abandoned for the moment. The next year, Mr. -Jefferson, then president of the United States, re-demanded of Spain the -fulfilment of the treaty. This power, sensible of its weakness, and -fearing to be compelled to cede the colony, secretly sold it to the -French Republic on the 21st of March, 1801. Upon hearing of this cession -the American government were justly alarmed. It foresaw, that the -activity and intelligence of the French, applied to so rich and -productive a soil, would make them more formidable than the Spaniards; -that their new neighbours might be able to close the navigation of the -Mississippi against them, and possess themselves of the commerce of the -Gulf of Mexico and Antilles. It immediately formed the project of -forcibly opposing the occupation of Louisiana by France, and joined -England against her. But this plan was overthrown by the treaty of -Amiens. At peace with England, France feared no further obstacles to her -projects, and an expedition was fitted out by her to take possession of -Louisiana, and at the same time support her wavering authority in St. -Domingo. The American government immediately had recourse to -negotiations for the purpose of purchasing Louisiana. Affairs, at that -time, changed with such rapidity, that the situation of France had again -altered before these propositions reached her. Threatened with a new war -by England, wearied with the struggle to defend St. Domingo, loaded with -a considerable debt due the United States, the first consul thought that -the sale of Louisiana would prove a good operation, the opportunity of -effecting which might relieve him from one difficulty, at least. He -accordingly sold it. The United States agreed to pay him fifteen -millions of dollars, on condition that three millions seven hundred and -fifty thousand dollars of this sum, should be retained for the purpose -of paying the claims held by the American merchants against France, for -the spoliations they had suffered. This treaty, signed at Paris the 30th -of April, 1803, by Messrs. Livingston and Monroe on the part of the -United States, and Mr. Barbé Marbois for France, was ratified in the -month of October, and the transfer of the colony to the American -commissioners took place on the 20th of December in the same year. - -All the parties interested in this bargain had reason to be satisfied -with its conclusion. France, freeing herself from the trouble of a -distant government, more burthensome than profitable, received sixty -millions of francs, which she needed to carry on the war, and, without -expending a cent, discharged a debt due the American merchants of nearly -twenty millions. The United States strengthened their independence, -acquired new frontiers more secure than the old ones, established her -commercial preponderance in the Gulf of Mexico and Antilles, and, by the -free navigation of the Mississippi, increased an hundred fold the value -of the products of the states west of the Allegany. In fine, Louisiana -herself, by entering into the great federal compact, secured an -honourable and independent existence as a body politic, and soon saw her -industry and prosperity freed from the cunning schemes of a capricious -master. - -Louisiana was immediately erected into a territorial government, by the -congress of the United States, which appointed Mr. Clayborne its -governor. In 1811, it was admitted a member of the Union, and left to -form its own government and institutions. The representatives of the -people, freely elected and assembled at New Orleans, framed and signed a -constitution, which was laid before, and sanctioned by congress. This -constitution was in conformity with, and very similar to those of the -other states, except that the Louisianians believed it their duty to -adopt every possible precaution against corruption and abuse of power. -Thus, for example, it was decided that every person, convicted of having -given or offered presents to public functionaries, should be declared -incapable of serving as governor, senator, or representative. - -If I thought it necessary to seek fresh proofs of the superiority of an -independent over a colonial government, whether this last proceed from a -monarchy or republic, it would suffice to point out Louisiana, at first -a colony for nearly a century, without advancing beyond the stage of -infancy, incessantly taken and retaken, sometimes by the Spaniards, at -others by the French, and always incapable of resisting either the one -or the other, after an expense to its metropolis of one hundred and -eighty-seven thousand dollars per annum; and, in fine, after the -numerous emigrations from Europe, exhibiting but a meagre population of -about forty thousand souls, spread over a vast and rich territory. I -would next show this same Louisiana, after twenty years of independent -republican government, having more than trebled its population, -defeating under the walls of its rich capital, an army composed of the -chosen troops of England; receiving into its ports annually more than -four hundred ships to exchange its valuable products for those of all -parts of the habitable globe; and, in its cities, offering all the -resources, all the enjoyments that can contribute to the happiness of -life, and which are ordinarily the products of a long period of -civilization. - -The state of Louisiana, enclosed within its new limits, is situated -between 29° and 33° n. l. and 12° and 17° of longitude. It is bounded on -the north by Arkansas territory, east by the Mississippi, south by the -Mexican gulf, and west by the Mexican provinces of Texas. It contains -forty-eight thousand square miles, divided into twenty-six parishes or -counties. It has a population of 153,500 souls, among which, -unfortunately, nearly 70,000 slaves are enumerated. The capital of this -state is New Orleans, a city admirably situated in a commercial point of -view, regularly laid out, ornamented with fine buildings, and containing -twenty-eight thousand inhabitants. The greatest inconvenience which New -Orleans labours under, is its situation upon the alluvial shores of the -Mississippi, by whose floods it is often inundated. This is perhaps the -principal cause of the yellow fever which is experienced there almost -every autumn. The impossibility of finding a single stone in all this -alluvial ground, shows why the principal streets have been left unpaved, -so that during the rainy season it is difficult to go about on foot. The -walks made in front of the houses scarcely serve to keep foot passengers -from the mud, and do not prevent the carriages from sinking sometimes to -their axles. The authorities, however, have at length begun to procure -paving stone from up the Mississippi, which the vessels bring as -ballast. This plan, though tedious and expensive, is the only one -practicable. - -The greater number of travellers who have visited New Orleans, pretend -that the manners of the city are strongly influenced by the presence of -the numerous emigrants from St. Domingo. These have the reputation of -loving pleasure to licentiousness, and of treating their slaves badly. -The love of gambling, and the duels so often occasioned by this passion, -give rise, it is said, to much disorder among them. To confirm or -disprove this opinion by my own observation, would be, in me, culpable -arrogance. My too short stay in this city did not permit me to study the -character of its society, and I could only be struck with the patriotic -spirit, the freedom and hospitality, displayed with enthusiasm in the -presence of General Lafayette.[8] - -Twenty-four hours after leaving New Orleans, we arrived at Duncan’s -Point, where the citizens of Baton-Rouge, a town situated eight miles -above, had previously sent a deputation to General Lafayette, to request -him to stop a short time amongst them. The general accepted the -invitation with gratitude, and two hours afterwards we landed below the -amphitheatre upon which the town of Baton-Rouge stands. The beach was -crowded with citizens, at the head of whom marched the municipal -authorities, and the first regiment of the Union came to form itself in -line under the same star-spangled banner, which, in defiance of the -greatest dangers, had but lately been planted upon the ruins of Spanish -despotism, by the inhabitants of these parishes. Accompanied by the -people and magistrates, the general proceeded to the room prepared for -his reception, in which he found the busts of Washington and Jackson -crowned with flowers and laurel. There he received the expressions of -kindness from all the citizens, with whom he went to the fort, the -garrison of which received him with a salute of twenty-four guns, and -afterwards defiled before him. We then entered the main building to -examine the interior of the barracks, but what was our surprise, on -entering into the first apartment, to find in the place of beds, arms, -and warlike equipments, a numerous assemblage of elegantly dressed and -beautiful ladies, who surrounded the general and offered him -refreshments and flowers. The general was sensibly touched by this -agreeable surprise, and passed some delightful moments in the midst of -this seducing garrison. On our return to town, we found a great number -of citizens met to offer the general a public dinner, among whom the -frank cordiality of the American, and the amenity of the French -characters prevailed. - -It was almost night when we returned on board the Natchez to continue -our voyage. On leaving Baton-Rouge, we had the mortification to part -again with some of those who had accompanied us from New Orleans, and -among others, with Mr. Duplantier, senior, whose active and tender -friendship, as well as that of his son, had been of great service to the -general. - -Baton-Rouge stands upon the left bank of the river, one hundred and -thirty-seven miles above New Orleans. In this passage, the navigation of -the river is very interesting. For several miles after leaving New -Orleans, the eye reposes agreeably upon the shores, enriched with fine -cotton and sugar plantations, and embellished with clusters of orange -trees, from the midst of which rise the white and showy dwellings of the -planters. By degrees the gardens and houses become more rare; but all -the way to Baton-Rouge one continues to see fine and well cultivated -lands. These plantations spread along the river, sometimes extending -nearly a mile back to the thick forests, which serve as their limits. -The soil is entirely formed of the fertile sediments deposited by the -ancient inundations of the Mississippi, now confined to its channel by -artificial banks. A special law enjoins it upon each river proprietor to -keep up with care that portion of dike opposite his property, so that -one every where sees the slaves continually engaged in driving down -stakes, interlacing the branches of trees, and heaping earth here and -there where there is danger that the river will force a passage. But -notwithstanding all precautions, the water often rushes furiously over -these obstacles, and spreads devastation and death. Not a year passes -without some proprietor having the misfortune to see snatched from him -in a few minutes the fruits of long and laborious exertions. All the -lands which border the Mississippi, from its outlet to six hundred miles -above, are subject to inundations. Nevertheless, on leaving Baton-Rouge, -the left shore appears sufficiently elevated above the surface of the -water to be free from these accidents. - -The distance between Baton-Rouge and Natchez, is two hundred and sixty -miles. This we ran in thirty-two hours, having had a pleasant passage, -in the course of which we met a great many boats of all forms and sizes, -laden with all sorts of productions from the most distant points of the -Union. Those which more particularly attracted our attention were large -and of a square form, without either masts, sails, or oars. They floated -down the river at the mercy of the current, and bore more resemblance to -enormous boxes than to boats. They are called _arks_, and are commonly -manned by Kentuckians, who go in this way to New Orleans, to dispose of -their grain, poultry, and cattle. There, after receiving pay for their -produce, they sell also the planks of their arks, which cannot ascend -the river, and return to their homes on foot, across the forests of the -states of Mississippi, Alabama, and Tennessee. More than fifteen hundred -persons, it is said, travel thus, every summer, seventeen hundred miles -by water, and afterwards, in returning, eleven hundred on foot.[9] - -On Monday, the 18th of April, some distant discharges of cannon, which -we heard at dawn, announced our approach to a city. Some minutes -afterwards, the first rays of the sun gilding the shores of the -Mississippi, which, in this place, rose a hundred and fifty feet above -the surface of the water, showed us the tops of the houses in Natchez. -Our steam-boat stopped a little while previous to arriving opposite the -town, and we went on shore at Bacon’s landing, where the citizens, with -a calash and four horses, and an escort of cavalry and volunteer -infantry, were waiting for the general. We might have landed a little -higher up and entered the city by a more direct road, but the members of -the committee of arrangement had the address to conduct us by a devious -road, along which our eyes were presented with all the beauties of the -country. In proportion as we advanced, the escort increased. It -consisted of citizens on horseback, militia on foot, ladies in -carriages, and nearly the whole population, who came in a crowd to see -their beloved and long expected guest. Two addresses were made to the -general; one by the president of the committee of arrangement, on -entering the city; the other by the mayor, on one of the most elevated -spots on the banks of the Mississippi, within view of the town and the -river, its source of prosperity. At the moment the general finished his -reply, a man suddenly emerged from the crowd, approached the calash, -waving his hat in the air, and cried out, “Honour to the commander of -the Parisian national guard! I was under your orders in ’91, my general, -in one of the battalions of the Filles-Saint-Thomas. I still love -liberty as I loved it then: Live, Lafayette!” The general was agreeably -surprised to meet, on the shores of a distant country, one of his old -citizen soldiers, who recalled to him in so touching a manner the happy -times when he could rationally think of the happiness and liberty of his -country. He affectionately offered him his hand, and expressed to him -the pleasure he felt in thus meeting him in a land of liberty and -hospitality. - -At the moment we were preparing to enter our hotel, we observed a long -procession of children of both sexes approaching us. They were led by -Colonel Marshall, who requested of the general for them, and in their -name, permission to shake hands with him. The general willingly complied -with this wish of the children of Natchez, who marched in order before -him, placing successively one of their little hands in that which had -fought for the liberty of their fathers. The parents, spectators of this -scene, contemplated it with silence and emotion. On its termination, I -heard them congratulate each other on the happy influence which this day -would have upon the future characters of their children. “When they have -grown up,” said they, “and come to read their country’s history, they -will find the name of Lafayette intimately connected with all the events -which led to the freedom of their fathers, they will recall the -gentleness of his manners, the mildness of his voice, when he received -them in their infancy, and will feel an increased love for a liberty won -by such a man.” - -The inhabitants of Natchez neglected nothing which could contribute to -the pleasure of their guest during the twenty-four hours he remained -with them. The public dinner concluded with toasts, _To the Nation’s -Guest_—_The triumph of Yorktown_—_France fighting for the liberty of the -world_—_The victory of New Orleans_—in fact to all glorious and -patriotic American recollections. It was not until after the ball which -closed about daybreak, that the general could think of embarking. The -ladies employed all the charms of mind and person to retain him as long -as possible, but our minutes were counted; and six o’clock in the -morning found us again on board our vessel. - -At the moment when the general was about to leave the shore, an old -revolutionary soldier presented himself, and uncovering his breast -marked with scars, “these wounds,” said he, “are my pride. I received -them fighting by your side for the independence of my country. Your -blood, my general, flowed the same day at the battle of Brandywine, -where we were so unfortunate.” “It was indeed a rough day,” said the -general to him, “but have we not since been amply indemnified?”—“Oh! -that is very true,” replied the veteran, “at present we are happy beyond -our furthest wishes. You receive the blessings of ten millions of -freemen, and I press the hand of my brave general! virtue always has its -reward!” Every one applauded the enthusiasm and frankness of the old -soldier, whom the general cordially greeted. - -On leaving Natchez, we parted from the worthy Mr. Johnson, governor of -Louisiana, who would not consent to leave the general whilst within his -own state. He now placed us under the care of the state of Mississippi, -and left with us, for the purpose of doing the honours of Louisiana as -far as St. Louis, Messrs. Prieur, recorder of the councils of New -Orleans, Caire, his private secretary, and Morse and Ducros, his -aides-de-camp. In taking leave of the governor, General Lafayette -evinced the most sincere affection, and desired him to express in his -name all the gratitude with which he was penetrated by his cordial -reception in Louisiana. - -Natchez was formerly the capital of the state of Mississippi, but has -ceased to be so in consequence of not being in a central situation. Its -population is nearly three thousand, and its port is the place of rest -and provisioning for vessels passing between New Orleans and the western -states, which gives it a great deal of activity. This city was founded -in 1717, by some French soldiers and workmen who had been in the -garrison of Fort Rosalie, and who, finding the situation good, -established themselves upon it after obtaining their discharge. The most -of them bought their lands from the Indians, who lived at some distance -from the river, where they had five villages situated very near each -other. That which they called the _Great Village_, where the principal -chief of the nation resided, stood on a small stream called White River. -It was to the west of this village that the Frenchmen, led by Hubert and -Lepage, had erected Fort Rosalie. - -When one has viewed the environs of Natchez, it is easy to conceive how -readily the first settlers renounced their own country to fix themselves -in these then savage wilds. It is difficult to find a more fertile soil, -a more vigorous vegetation, or more agreeable and varied situations. The -valleys afford fertile pastures, the hills are crowned with sassafras, -catalpas, tulip-trees, and the superb magnolia grandiflora, the tops of -which rise more than one hundred feet high, while their large white -flowers deliciously perfume the air. Nevertheless, one cannot exclude -the thought, that these verdant meadows, cool groves, and cheerful and -vigorous nature, are sometimes visited and rendered melancholy by the -yellow fever. - -Natchez is the only town in Mississippi which we visited, so that I have -little to say relative to this state. I shall only mention, that for a -long time, with Alexandria, it formed a part of the state of Georgia, -from which it was separated in 1800; that in 1817 it took its place in -the Union as an independent body politic, and framed for itself a -constitution. The fertility of its soil, and facilities of sending its -productions to market, have contributed, in a singular degree, to the -increase of its population. In 1800, it had only six thousand eight -hundred and fifty inhabitants, while it now contains seventy-six -thousand. If in this number, about thirty-thousand slaves are included, -its prosperity must still be regarded as very great. Many large fortunes -are found in this state, where it is not uncommon to meet with planters -having incomes of seven or eight thousand dollars. The staple products -are cotton and Indian corn. - -The state of Mississippi is situated between the 30th and 35th degrees -of north latitude, and the 11th and 14th degrees of west longitude from -Washington. Its surface contains forty-five thousand three hundred and -fifty square miles. It is bounded on the north by the state of -Tennessee, east by Alabama, south by Louisiana and the Gulf of Mexico, -and west by Louisiana and Arkansas. Although the population is very much -scattered, the land bears a considerable price, being on the banks of -the river from fifty to sixty dollars per acre. The price lessens in -proportion to the distance which the products have to be transported. - -In leaving Natchez, we parted as it were from the civilized world. From -this town to St. Louis, we did not meet with a single assemblage of -houses that deserved the name of town or even village. The banks of the -Mississippi again became flat, and presented nothing but grounds -overflown and covered with thick forests, impenetrable to the rays of -the sun. The swarms of musquitoes which rose out of it and settled in -thick clouds upon travellers, rendered the voyage almost insupportable, -especially during the night, if we had not taken the precaution to -provide musquito curtains. The only habitations we met with were large -cabins, situated upon places a little elevated above the level of the -river. These were inhabited temporarily by hardy speculators from the -north, who, always abandoning the _good_ in hopes of finding _better_, -retreat incessantly before the advance of civilization, and seek their -fortunes in the wilderness. The dangers of the navigation increase with -the monotony of the shores. Every moment presents some evidence of -recent disaster. Here, one beholds the ravages of a hurricane which has -crossed the river, and, in its devastation, has on both shores uprooted -and carried off, as if they had been weak reeds, thousands of trees, -which by their prodigious size were the pride of the forest. There, our -captain showed us a snag or sawyer, the inclined point of which had -pierced the bottom of a boat, immediately afterwards swallowed up by the -flood. Further on, the wood-choppers, in giving us the necessary -supplies of wood, told us of the explosion of a boiler which occasioned -the death of near forty passengers; and it was not long before we -ourselves saw the bank covered with travellers, who were impatiently -waiting until their boat which had been pierced by a snag, should be -repaired so as to be in a condition again to brave the danger from which -they had so narrowly escaped. - -These snags and sawyers, so formidable to the navigator, are very -numerous all along the river. Snags are thrown into the stream by high -floods, and, having floated some time, become fixed to the bottom of the -river, with their tops either above or below the surface according to -their length, but always inclining in the direction of the current. The -sawyers differ from snags only in being firmly stuck in the bed of the -river, and in this situation the current keeps them in constant -vibration, alternately raising and depressing their summits. As their -position often changes, it is difficult to avoid them; and, if vessels -in ascending the river are so unfortunate as to strike against them, -their destruction is almost inevitable, for they are pierced in such a -manner, that the water pours through the opening, and sinks them, -sometimes in a few minutes. - -But persons are little disposed to be uneasy on account of these -dangers, when, as in our case, they are on board a vessel skilfully -managed, with all the delicacies of life, and inexhaustible resources -afforded by the society of good and agreeable travelling companions. The -committee of New Orleans were joined by two gentlemen from Natchez, as -representatives of the state of Mississippi, near the person of General -Lafayette. To the attentions and gaiety of the members of both these -deputations, we were indebted for not having known a moment of -tediousness or inquietude, during our long voyage. After having sailed -for five days, with the states of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missouri, on -our left, and the states of Mississippi, Tennessee, and Kentucky, on our -right, we arrived at the mouth of Ohio, without any delays but those -necessary to take in wood. This fuel was sometimes supplied us by the -woodmen on the borders of the river, who live by the unlimited forests -which surround them. When we could find no woodmen we often supplied -ourselves. In this case, our captain, after having made his men take in -the necessary quantity, left in exchange a note nailed to a tree, upon -which was inscribed the number of cords he had taken, the name of his -boat, his place of residence, date of his passage, and signature. This -kind of commerce with the Mississippi woodmen is very common, and I have -heard it said that there never has been known an example of bad faith on -the part of the purchasers, who always show themselves most scrupulous -in paying their accounts, which are often presented months afterwards at -Natchez and New Orleans. - -When arrived at the mouth of the Ohio, we had come from the city of -Natchez four hundred and fifty miles. Our pilot assured us then, that -the upper part of the Mississippi was too little known to him, to permit -him to conduct us through the midst of dangers which were met with at -every moment. In consequence of this declaration, our good Captain Davis -made us enter the Ohio for the purpose of obtaining a new pilot, at the -distance of four miles from its mouth, whom we were so happy as to -procure immediately. On going thither, we met a steam-boat, whose -narrowness and unsteady motion induced us to think, that, destined for -the navigation of small streams, it only appeared upon the agitated -waters of a large one upon extraordinary occasions. This steam-boat was -the Artizan, bearing the Tennessee deputation, sent to desire the -general to ascend the Cumberland river to Nashville, where he had been a -long time expected, and where his intention of visiting St. Louis was -not then known. After a short conference with the deputies of the state -of Tennessee, who insisted strongly that the general should proceed -immediately to their shores, it was determined that we should continue -our voyage in the Natchez to St. Louis; that a part of the Tennessee -deputation should come with us, and the rest remain on board the Artizan -at the mouth of the Ohio until our return. These arrangements, concluded -to the satisfaction of every one, we left the _beautiful_, to enter -again the _great_ river. We remarked, with surprise, that at the -confluence of these two bodies of water, the current appeared suspended -for several miles, which seems to indicate the equality in volume and -force of the two rivers at this place. - -After leaving the mouth of the Ohio, the appearance of the shores of the -Mississippi changes entirely. The lands, more elevated, present a -greater number of houses. From place to place traces of the old French -establishments are visible, and beautiful islands like gardens, often -present themselves to the eye of the navigator, interrupting the -monotony of the river. At first he sees the isle of Birds, charming for -its freshness; next those called the Two Sisters and the Dog’s Tooth; -and then English Island, which recalls the first settlement made by the -English in the midst of these wilds in the year 1765. This was soon -destroyed by the savages, who saw with pain their old French friends -dispossessed by traders whom they had never before seen. At about forty -miles from the confluence, and almost opposite each other, rise capes -Girardeau and Lacroix, both thus named by Mr. De Frontenac, governor of -Canada, sent to ascertain the truth of the assertion made by the -Indians, that _from the north there came a great river which ran neither -in the direction whence the Great Spirit rose, nor towards that in which -he set_. There is at present at Cape Girardeau a small village, recently -founded, which begins to prosper. A little above, on the eastern side, -are seen the ruins of ancient fortifications exhibiting a scene -altogether picturesque. These are the remains of fort Chartres, -constructed at great expense by the French, in 1753, for the defence of -Upper Mississippi, now deserted by the Americans as altogether useless. - -Some hours after having passed fort Chartres, whilst we walked the deck, -our captain pointed out in the river a flock of young Louisiana geese, -led by the two old ones. The elegant shape, and beautiful plumage of -these fowls, made me anxious to get possession of the whole family. I -immediately launched into the river a skiff manned with two sailors, -and, going in the direction of the old goose, endeavoured to get the -boat between her and shore. The old geese, taking fright, made their -escape with loud cries, but the young ones, unable yet to fly, or escape -by climbing the steep banks, soon fell into our hands. We carried off -five, which our captain had the goodness to take charge of, promising to -raise them with care, and forward them to New Orleans, whence Mr. Caire -engaged to send them to La Grange, for the benefit of the general’s -farm.[10] As I was returning from this little expedition, I perceived, -in the middle of the river, another very tempting game. This was a -superb deer, which swam with as much calmness and ease as though it were -in its native element. When it heard our cries, mingled with the noise -of our steam-boat, it threw its long branching antlers upon its -shoulders, and sunk in the water to escape our notice, swimming rapidly -for the swiftest part of the current. As soon as it thought itself free -from the danger of pursuit, it re-appeared above water, shook its -antlers proudly, and tranquilly resumed its course. It is by no means -rare, as we were informed, to see many of these animals thus passing -from one shore of the river to the other, and visiting the fertile -islands which adorn its course. - -At the distance of one hundred miles from the Ohio, the shores of the -Mississippi suddenly assume a more imposing appearance, rising steeply -eighty or a hundred feet above the level of the water. They are composed -of very hard granite. In their whole height they are impressed with deep -horizontal furrows, which appear to have been caused by the friction of -the water, whilst the river was at the different levels which they -indicate. Some of these furrows are nearly a foot deep. They occur at -unequal intervals, and mark the successive decrease of the water. At the -actual level of the river the furrow is scarcely perceptible. What a -length of time has, therefore, been occupied in the formation of each -furrow by the sole action of the water upon a rock of such hardness? The -solution of this single question would, perhaps, throw a good deal of -difficulty into the calculations of the system-makers, who pretend to -fix the epoch of the creation of our globe. - -Some distance above, these steep rocks leave between them and the river -a considerable space, in which is situated Herculaneum. The site of this -village is altogether romantic, the towers, formed upon the rock, which -crowns it irregularly, impart a fantastic character, and attract the -curiosity of travellers. From the height of these towers, which spring -from the steep rock, they throw down melted lead, which cools by rolling -in the air, becomes round, and falls in the form of small shot into -large receivers of water, placed beneath. The large or small size of the -holes in the iron sieve, through which it is thrown while boiling hot, -give the various sizes wanted for hunting. The lead mines found in -abundance upon the shores of the Merrimac river, which empties into the -Mississippi ten miles from this place, have given origin to these -establishments, the prosperity of which increases every day. - -On the evening of the 28th, we arrived at a poor little village which -the French formerly founded under the sad name of Empty Pocket, better -known at the present day by the name of Carondelet. Although we were not -above six or seven miles from St. Louis, as we could not get there by -day light, the members of the different committees in attendance upon -the general, resolved to pass the night at anchor in the river, and wait -till next morning to enter the town. No sooner were the inhabitants of -Carondelet informed of the presence of General Lafayette in their -vicinity, than they came in crowds on board the boat to see him. They -were nearly all Frenchmen. For a long time, their settlement has -consisted of only about sixty houses, and does not promise to increase. -Unsuited to commerce, it was only occupied with agriculture, which is -still its chief means of obtaining the necessaries of life. The most of -them came from Canada, and fixed themselves upon a portion of land along -the Mississippi without inquiring who owned it. They laboured, some for -ten, others for twenty years; and none of them thought of securing the -titles to the little farms produced by the sweat of their brows. At -present, whilst the government of the United States are selling much of -the land it possesses in these regions, these unfortunate people run a -constant risk of seeing themselves dispossessed by purchasers who come -to claim their property. They mentioned their inquietudes to the -general, who promised to represent their situation to the federal -government, and interest himself in their behalf. These good people, in -the simplicity of their gratitude, offered him whom they already -regarded as their protector, every thing which they thought would be -agreeable; one of them brought him tame Mississippi geese; another, a -young fawn which he had raised; a third, petrifactions and shells which -he looked upon as precious. The general saw that if he refused these -presents their feelings would be wounded; and therefore hastened to -accept them and return his acknowledgements. - -On the morning of the 29th of April, Governor Clark, of Missouri, -Governor Coles of Illinois, and Colonel Benton, came on board; who all -three came to accompany the general to St. Louis. Some minutes after, -the steam-boat Plough Boy, having on board a great number of citizens, -ranged along side the Natchez, and the nation’s guest was saluted by -three cheers, which made the forests of the Missouri resound with -_Welcome, Lafayette_. We then weighed anchor, and at nine o’clock saw a -large number of buildings whose architecture was very fantastical, -rising from the midst of beautiful green shrubbery and smiling gardens, -commanding distant views of the river. This was the city of St. Louis. -Its name, and the language of a great portion of its inhabitants, soon -informed us of its origin. But if we were struck with the diversity of -languages in which General Lafayette was saluted, we were not less so by -the unity of sentiment which they manifested. The shore was covered by -the whole population, who mingled their cries of joy with the roar of -the cannon of our two vessels. The moment the general stepped on shore, -the mayor, Dr. Lane, presented himself at the head of the municipal -authorities, and greeted him with an address. - -As the general concluded his reply to the mayor, an elegant calash drawn -by four horses approached the shore, to conduct him to the city, through -all the streets of which he was drawn in the midst of the acclamations -of the people. He was attended by Mr. Augustus Choteau, a venerable old -gentleman by whom St. Louis was founded, Mr. Hempstead, an old soldier -of the revolution, and the mayor. These gentlemen conducted him to the -house of the son of Mr. Choteau, prepared for his reception, which was -thrown open to all citizens without distinction, who desired to visit -the national guest. Among the visiters, the general met with pleasure -Mr. Hamilton, son of General Alexander Hamilton, the former aide-de-camp -to Washington, whom he so much loved, and an old French sergeant of -Rochambeau’s army named Bellissime. This last could not restrain the joy -he felt on seeing a countryman thus honoured by the American nation. - -The inhabitants of St. Louis knew that General Lafayette could only -remain a few hours with them, and they took advantage of the short time -he had to dispose of to show him every thing which their city and its -environs contained worthy of notice. While dinner was preparing at Mr. -Peter Choteau’s, we rode out in a carriage to visit on the banks of the -river those remains of ancient Indian monuments which some travellers -call tombs, whilst others regard them as fortifications or places for -the performance of religious ceremonies. All these opinions are -unfortunately equally susceptible of discussion, for these monuments -have not preserved any sufficiently well marked characters to afford -foundation for satisfactory deductions. Those near St. Louis are nothing -but mounds covered with green turf, the ordinary shape of which is an -oblong square. Their common height is little more than eight feet, but -must have been much greater before the earth they are built of was -thrown down during the lapse of ages. Their sides are inclined, and the -mean length of their base is from eighty to a hundred feet, their width -varying from thirty to sixty feet. What leads me to believe that these -fabrics of earth have never been used as strong holds in war, is, that -not one of them is surrounded by ditches, and they are placed too near -together. These mounds are not only met with in the environs of St. -Louis, but all over the states of Missouri, Indiana, and upon the -borders of Ohio, where, we are informed, they meet with much more -interesting traces of the greatest antiquity, indicating that this world -which we call _new_, was the seat of civilization, perhaps long anterior -to the continent of Europe.[11] - -From the mounds of Saint Louis to the junction of Mississippi and -Missouri, we should only have had two or three hours ride, but the time -of the general was so calculated that we were obliged to forego the -pleasure we should have derived from visiting the union of these two -rivers, which have their sources in countries where nature yet reigns -undisturbed. Returned to town, we went to see the collection of Indian -curiosities made by Governor Clark, which is the most complete that is -to be found. We visited it with the greater pleasure from its being -shown us by Mr. Clark, who had himself collected all the objects which -compose it, while exploring the distant western regions with Captain -Lewis. Specimens of all the clothing, arms, and utensils for fishing, -hunting, and war, in use among the various tribes living on the sources -of the Missouri and Mississippi, are here to be found. Among the -articles commonly worn by the Indian hunters, collars made of claws of -prodigious size, particularly struck our attention. These claws, Gen. -Clark informed us, are from that most terrible of all the animals of the -American continent, the Grizzly Bear, of the Missouri, the ferocious -instinct of which adds still more to the terror inspired by its enormous -size and strength. The bears of this species meet together to the number -of ten or twelve, and some times more, to chase and make a common -division of their prey. Man is their favourite prey, and when they fall -upon his track, they chase him with _outcries_ like those made by our -hounds in coursing a hare, and it is difficult to escape the steadiness -of their pursuit.[12] This animal is altogether unknown in Europe, even -in the largest menageries. The London Cabinet of Natural History -possesses only a single claw, which is regarded as a great rarity.[13] -Gen. Clark has visited, near the sources of the Missouri and -Mississippi, Indian tribes which, previous to his visit, had never seen -a white man; but among whom he nevertheless discovered traces of an -ancient people more civilized than themselves. Thus, for example, he -brought away with him a whip which the riders of these tribes do not -understand the mode of using on their horses at the present time. The -knots of this are very complex, and actually arranged like the _knout_ -of the Cossacks. He presented General Lafayette with a garment bearing a -striking resemblance to a Russian riding coat. It is made of buffaloe -skin, prepared so as to retain all its pliancy, as if dressed by the -most skilful tanner. From these and some other facts, Mr. Clark, and -Captain Lewis, his companion, concluded that there formerly existed, -near the pole, a communication between Asia and America. These two -intrepid travellers published in 1814, an interesting account of the -journeys made by them in 1804, 5, and 6, by order of the American -government, the object being to explore the sources of the Missouri, and -the course of the Columbia river, till it reaches the Pacific ocean. - -We could have remained a considerable longer time in Governor Clark’s -museum, listening to the interesting accounts which he was pleased to -give us relative to his great journeys, but were informed that the hour -for dinner had arrived, and we went to the house of Mr. Peter Choteau. -On our way we visited a portion of the town which we had not before -seen, and were surprised at the whimsical manner in which some of the -houses, apparently the most ancient, were constructed. They generally -consisted of a single story, surrounded by a gallery covered with a wide -projecting roof. Some one pointed out to us, that formerly the basement -was not inhabited, and that the stair-way leading to the upper story was -moveable at pleasure. This precaution was used by the first inhabitants -of St. Louis for the purpose of guarding against the insidious nocturnal -attacks of the Indians, who saw with jealousy the whites making -permanent settlements among them. When St. Louis, then a feeble village, -passed under the Spanish authority, the neighbouring Indians were still -so numerous and enterprising, that the inhabitants could scarcely resist -them, or even venture abroad. It is related, that, in 1794, an Indian -chief entered St. Louis, with a portion of his tribe, and having -demanded an interview, spoke as follows: “We come to offer you peace. We -have made war against you for a great many moons, and what has been the -result? Nothing. Our warriors have used every means to fight with yours, -but you will not, and dare not meet us! You are a pack of old women! -What can be done with such people, since they will not fight, but make -peace? I come therefore to you to bury the hatchet, brighten the chain, -and open a new communication with you.” - -Since that time the tribes have greatly diminished, and most of them -departed. Those still remaining in the vicinity show the most peaceable -disposition towards the white inhabitants, with whom they carry on a -considerable trade in furs. The inhabitants of St. Louis are, besides, -sufficiently numerous no longer to fear such neighbours. The population -amounts to nearly six thousand souls, which number will probably be -doubled in a few years, for this city has the prospect of a brilliant -destiny in these vast regions, in the midst of which civilization, under -the guidance of American liberty and industry, must run a giant’s -course. St. Louis is already the grand store-house of all the commerce -of the countries west of the Mississippi. Its situation near the -junction of four or five great rivers, all of whose branches, which -spread to the most distant extremities of the Union, furnish an easy and -rapid communication with all those places which can contribute to the -wants or luxuries of its happy inhabitants. Into what astonishment is -the mind thrown on reflecting that such a height of prosperity is the -result of but a few years, and that the founder of so flourishing a city -still lives, and, for a long time, has been in the enjoyment of the -results which he neither could have hoped for, nor anticipated, had it -been predicted to his young and ardent imagination on first approaching -the solitary shores of the Mississippi. This enterprising man, who, with -his axe, felled the first tree of the ancient forest on the place where -the city of St. Louis stands, who raised the first house, about which, -in so short a time, were grouped the edifices of a rich city; who, by -his courage and conciliating spirit, at first repressed the rage of the -Indians, and afterwards secured their friendship; this happy man is Mr. -Augustus Choteau. I have already named him among those appointed by the -inhabitants of St. Louis to do the honours of their city to the guest of -the American nation. It was at the house of his son, Mr. Peter Choteau, -that we partook of the feast of republican gratitude. It was highly -interesting to behold seated at the table the founder of a great city, -one of the principal defenders of the independence of a great nation, -and the representatives of four young republics, already rich from their -industry, powerful from their liberty, and happy from the wisdom of -their institutions. As might be readily supposed, the conversation was -highly interesting. Mr. Augustus Choteau was asked a great many -questions respecting his youthful adventures and enterprises. The -companion in arms of Washington was requested to relate some details of -the decisive and glorious campaign of Virginia, and the members of the -different deputations of Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, and -Missouri, drew a pleasing picture of the prosperous advancement of their -respective states. In this company, that which touched General Lafayette -most was the prevailing unanimity among the guests, who, though they did -not all speak one language, agreed perfectly in respect to the -excellence of those republican institutions under which it was their -happiness to live. Before leaving the banquet in order to attend the -ball which the ladies were so kind as to prepare for us, some toasts -were exchanged, all of which bore the impression of the harmony existing -between the old French and the new American population. Mr. Delassus, -formerly lieutenant-governor of Louisiana, drank, “_The United States -and France!_ May these two countries produce another Washington and -another Lafayette, to emancipate the rest of the world!” Governor Coles -drank, “_France!_ dear to our hearts from so many recollections, and -above all for having given birth to our Lafayette.” General Lafayette -finished by drinking the health of the venerable patriarch, who, in -1763, founded the town of St. Louis, and immediately afterwards we left -the table for the ball, where we found the most numerous and brilliant -company assembled, as we were informed, that had ever been seen upon the -western shore of the Mississippi. The splendid decorations of the room, -and the beauty of the ladies who graced it, made us completely forget -that we were on the confines of a wilderness which the savages -themselves consider as insufficient for the supply of their simple -wants, since they only frequent it occasionally. We partook of the -pleasures of the evening until near midnight, the hour at which we were -to return on board the Natchez, for the purpose of taking some rest -before daylight, when we were to depart. At the moment we were about to -embark, many citizens of St. Louis had the goodness to offer us several -objects of curiosity, such as bows, arrows, calumets, and dresses of the -Missouri Indians. We accepted with gratitude these testimonies of -benevolence, which we have preserved as agreeable remembrancers of happy -occurrences so far from our country. - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Changes produced in the navigation of the Mississippi since the - introduction of Steam—Arrival at Kaskaskia—The Canadians and - Indians—Singular meeting with a young Indian educated among the - Whites, and returned to savage life—Indian Ballad—State of - Illinois—Departure from Kaskaskia—Separation of General Lafayette - and the Louisiana deputation. - - -Governor Coles, who had embarked with us, requested of General Lafayette -and obtained his consent, that he would not leave the river Mississippi -without visiting the state of Illinois, along which we were to pass in -descending the river. It was decided that we should stop at Kaskaskia, a -large village of that state, and, although nearly eighty miles distant, -we arrived there a little while before noon, so fortunate and rapid was -our navigation. Since the application of steam to navigation, the -changes produced in the relations of the towns on the Mississippi is -prodigious. Formerly the voyage from New Orleans to St. Louis required -three or four months of the most painful toil that can be imagined; the -action of the oar was not always sufficient to overcome the resistance -of the current. They were often obliged to warp the boat by hand, -advancing from time to time with a small boat to tie a rope to a tree or -stone on the shore.[14] This slow and painful operation, the consequent -privations and bad diet, caused diseases among the boatmen, which -ordinarily destroyed one third of the crew. At present the same passage -which is nearly fifteen hundred miles, is made in ten days, without -fatigue, without privations, between a good bed and a good table, and -often in very good company; the return is commonly made in five days; so -that New Orleans and St. Louis, separated by so great a distance, are -now considered as neighbouring cities, whose inhabitants are better -acquainted and visit each other oftener than those of Paris and Bordeaux -can do. - -General Lafayette was not expected at Kaskaskia, and nothing had been -prepared for this unforeseen visit. While we were landing some one ran -to the village, which stands a quarter of a mile from the shore, and -quickly returned with a carriage for the general, who, an instant after, -was surrounded by many citizens, who ran before to receive him. In the -escort which formed itself to accompany him, we saw neither military -apparel nor the splendid triumphs we had perceived in the rich cities; -but the accents of joy and republican gratitude which broke upon his -ear, was grateful to his heart, since it proved to him that wherever -American liberty had penetrated, there also the love and veneration of -the people for its founders were perpetuated. - -We followed the general on foot, and arrived almost at the same time at -the house of General Edgar, a venerable soldier of the revolution, who -received him with affectionate warmth, and ordered all the doors to be -kept open, that his fellow citizens might enjoy, as well as himself, the -pleasure of shaking hands with the adopted son of America. After a few -minutes had been accorded to the rather tumultuous expression of the -sentiments which the presence of the general inspired, Governor Coles -requested silence, which was accorded with a readiness and deference -that proved to me that his authority rested not only on the law, but -still more on popular affection. He advanced towards Lafayette, about -whom the crowd had increased, and addressed him with emotion in a -discourse in which he depicted the transports his presence excited in -the population of the state of Illinois, and the happy influence which -the remembrance of his visit would produce hereafter on the youthful -witnesses of the enthusiasm of their fathers, for one of the most -valiant founders of their liberty. - -During an instant of profound silence, I cast a glance at the assembly, -in the midst of which I found myself, and was struck with astonishment -in remarking their variety and fantastic appearance. Beside men whose -dignity of countenance, the patriotic exaltation of expression, readily -indicated them to be Americans, were others whose coarse dresses, -vivacity, petulance of movement, and the expansive joy of their visages, -strongly recalled to me the peasantry of my own country; behind these, -near to the door, and on the piazza which surrounded the house, stood -some immovable, impassable, large, red, half naked figures, leaning on a -bow or a long rifle: these were the Indians of the neighbourhood. - -After a pause of some seconds, the governor resumed his address, which -he concluded by presenting, with great eloquence, a faithful picture of -the benefits which America had derived from its liberty, and the happy -influence which republican institutions would one day exercise on the -rest of the world. When the orator had finished, a slight murmur of -approbation passed through the assembly, and was prolonged until it was -perceived that General Lafayette was about to reply, when an attentive -silence was restored. - -After these reciprocal felicitations, another scene not less interesting -commenced. Some old revolutionary soldiers advanced from the crowd, and -came to shake hands with their old general; while he conversed with -them, and heard them, with softened feelings, cite the names of those of -their ancient companions in arms, who also fought at Brandywine and -Yorktown, but for whom it was not ordained to enjoy the fruits of their -toils, nor to unite their voices with that of their grateful country. -The persons whom I had remarked as having some likeness in dress and -manners to our French peasants, went and came with vivacity in all parts -of the hall, or sometimes formed little groups, from the midst of which -could be heard, in the French language, the most open and animated -expressions of joy. Having been introduced to one of these groups by a -member of the committee of Kaskaskia, I was received at first with great -kindness, and was quickly overwhelmed with a volley of questions, as -soon as they found I was a Frenchman, and accompanied general Lafayette. -“What! are you also come from France? Give us then some news from that -fine, that dear country. Are people happy there? Are they free as they -are here? Ah! what pleasure to see our good Frenchmen from _grand -France_!” and the questions followed with such rapidity, that I knew not -which to understand. I was not long in perceiving that these good men -were as ignorant of the things which concerned their mother country, as -they were enthusiastic. They are acquainted with France only by -tradition from the reign of Louis XIV. and they have no idea of the -convulsions which, during the last forty years, have torn the country of -their fathers. “Have you not had,” said one of them to me, who had just -asked me many questions about General Lafayette, which would not have -been asked by an American child ten years of age, “have you not had -another famous general, called Napoleon, who has made many glorious -wars?” I think if Napoleon had heard such a question asked, his vanity -would have been somewhat shocked by it. He, who believed he filled the -universe with his name, because he had overturned some old thrones of -Europe, and destroyed the liberty of France, was yet hardly known on the -banks of the Mississippi; not more than two thousand leagues from the -theatre of his glory, his name is pronounced with an expression of -doubt! Indeed, there is in this something to damp the most ardent -passion for celebrity: I did my best to reply to the question of my -Canadian, to make him comprehend, as well as those who surrounded him, -who was this _famous General Napoleon_. At the recital of his exploits, -they at first clapped their hands, and assumed an air of superiority, in -saying, “These are our brave Frenchmen. It is only among them that men -like these are to be found!” But when I came to tell them how this -famous general caused himself to be made consul; how he made himself -emperor; how he had successively destroyed our liberty, and paralyzed -the exercise of our rights; how, finally, he had himself fallen, leaving -us, after twenty years of war, nearly at the same point whence we had -started at the commencement of our revolution, they all became sad as if -about to weep, and exclaimed: “And you have suffered all that! How, in -beautiful France, and grand France, are they not free as in the state of -Illinois? Good heavens! is it possible? What, can you not write whatever -you please? Cannot you go every where without passports? Is it not you -who nominate the mayors of your towns and villages? Is it not you who -choose your governors, or your prefects of departments or provinces? -Have you not the right to elect your representatives to the national -assembly? Are none of you called to the election of the chief of the -government, although you pay the whole of such heavy taxes? Alas! our -good Frenchmen of grand France are then more to be pitied than the negro -slaves of Louisiana, who are, indeed, miserable enough! for if these -exercise none of the rights which we all exercise here, they at least -pay no money, and have masters that support them.” During these -exclamations, I did not know what to say. The colour mounted to my -cheeks, and I confess that my national vanity suffered singularly to -hear ignorant Canadians express sentiments of pity for my countrymen, -and draw a parallel to their disadvantage between them and miserable -slaves; but these sentiments were too well founded to admit of my -complaining, and I was silent. I only made a promise to myself to be -more discreet for the future, and not to speak with so much freedom of -the political situation of my country before freemen. - -While I was occupied with the Canadians, the crowd, influenced by a -feeling of delicacy and kind attention, insensibly withdrew, to leave -General Lafayette time to take a few moments’ repose while waiting for -the banquet which the citizens had hastily prepared. Wishing to profit -by the short time we had to remain at Kaskaskia, Mr. George Lafayette -and myself went out to view the environs of the village, in company with -some of the inhabitants, and left the general with our other travelling -companions and some old revolutionary soldiers, at Colonel Edgar’s. At -the public square we found nearly all the citizens walking about, and -joyously conversing upon the event of the day. We found in their groups -the same variety of physiognomy that had struck me in the hall. While -Mr. George gathered from an American, the details of the origin and -present situation of Kaskaskia, I approached a small circle of Indians, -in the centre of which was a man of high stature and singular aspect. -His face, without being coppery like that of the Indians, was still very -swarthy. His short dress, his long belt, to which hung a powder-horn, -his long leather leggings, extending above his knees, and all his -equipage, announced a hunter of the forest. He was leaning on a long -rifle, and appeared to inspire by his discourse a lively interest in his -hearers. When he observed me, he came to me without forwardness, but -with marked kindness. He extended his hand, and I gave him mine, which -he shook cordially. I had a moment’s hesitation in addressing him, not -knowing whether he understood English or French; but he spoke to me -first in French, and I soon found myself quite at ease with him. He -informed me that he was of mixed blood, that his mother was of the -Kickapoos tribe, and that his father was a Canadian. He lives among the -Indians of the neighbourhood, who have a great friendship and respect -for him, because, notwithstanding fifty years and fatigue have begun to -whiten his head, he yet equals them in hunting and all the exercises of -the body, and because he often serves them as a mediator between them -and the whites, whose language he perfectly understands, although his -common language is Indian. Those who surrounded him were not all -similarly clothed, nor similarly painted. It was easy to distinguish -some differences in their features and manners. I concluded that they -were not all of the same tribe. The hunter confirmed me in this opinion -by telling me that at this moment, there were about Kaskaskia three or -four camps of Indians, come to sell the furs obtained by their great -hunting during the winter. He named the different tribes who occupied -the camps; but their names were so barbarous, or so badly pronounced, -that I could not comprehend them; I understood distinctly only that of -_Miami_, which, repeated three or four times, roused from his apathy a -little man, who until then stood motionless before me, wrapped in a -blanket; his face, bloated by intemperance, was painted red, blue, and -yellow. At the name of Miami, he raised his head, assumed an air of -ridiculous dignity, and said, “I should be the chief of the Miami -nation. My grandfather was chief, my father was chief; but the Miami -have unjustly decided that I should not succeed my father, and now, -instead of having a great quantity of furs to sell, I have none; I shall -quit Kaskaskia without being able to buy arms, powder, or tobacco.” -While he thus spoke, a man painted in the same way, but of a very lofty -stature and athletic form, regarded him with a disdainful air, and said, -after tapping him on the shoulder, “Dare you to complain of the justice -of the Miami? Thy grandfather was our chief, sayest thou? thy father was -also? But hast thou then forgotten that thy grandfather was the bravest -of our warriors, and that the wisdom of thy father was heard in our -councils as the voice of the Great Spirit? But, by what title wouldst -thou command among men? Feeble as an old woman, thou hast not even the -courage to hunt to satisfy thy wants, and thou wouldst sell us to the -whites for a bottle of whiskey.” A contemptuous gesture terminated this -rude apostrophe, which was translated into French for me at the time by -the stout hunter; and the fallen prince, sadly leaning on a small bow, -similar to those with which the Indian boys exercise, kept silence. His -fate seemed to me truly deserving of pity; I could not, however, avoid -feeling a sentiment of esteem for the Miami nation, who do not believe -that legitimacy in a prince can supply the place of all the virtues. - -I was still among the Indians, questioning the hunter as to the -situation and force of their tribes, which civilization is rapidly -diminishing, when I saw the secretary of the governor of Louisiana, Mr. -Caire, approach, who came to propose that I should go with him to visit -an Indian encampment, at a very short distance from the village. I -consented, and we set off immediately, in order to return by the dinner -hour. Leaving Kaskaskia, we crossed a river of the same name, on a -wooden bridge solidly built and firmly connected. We then marched about -twenty minutes on the plain, to the entrance of a forest, which we -penetrated by a straight path traced along a rivulet. As we advanced, -the ground suddenly elevated itself to the right and left, and we -quickly found ourselves in a kind of pass, formed by a succession of -small hills, covered with thickets. After about a quarter of an hour’s -walk, we arrived at a fence, which we climbed, and behind which two -horses attracted our attention by the noise of the bells hung round -their necks. A little further on, the pass enlarging, formed a -delightful little valley, in the middle of which some huts of bark were -raised in a half circle; this was the Indian camp we sought. The -openings of these huts were all towards the centre of the circle, and -the planks elevated about three feet from the ground, were slightly -inclined, like the cover of a field bed. With the exception of a very -old woman cooking at a fire in the open air, we found no person in the -camp. Either from spite, or because she neither comprehended French nor -English, this woman would reply to none of our questions, and saw us -with the greatest indifference, look at, and even handle, all the -objects which attracted our curiosity in the huts. All was arranged with -sufficient order, and it was easy to recognize the places occupied by -the women, by the little utensils of the toilet, such as -looking-glasses, pins, bags of paint, &c. which we remarked there. After -a minute examination of this little camp, we were about to leave it, -when I was arrested on the border of the streamlet which ran through it, -by the sight of a small mill-wheel, which appeared to have been thrown -on the bank by the rapidity of the current. I took it up and placed it -where I thought it had originally been put by the children, on two -stones elevated a little above the water; and the current striking the -wings, made it turn rapidly. This puerility, (which probably would have -passed from my memory, if, on the same evening, it had not placed me -before the Indians, in a situation sufficiently extraordinary,) greatly -excited the attention of the old woman, who, by her gestures, expressed -to us a lively satisfaction. - -On returning to Kaskaskia, we found Mr. de Syon, an amiable young -Frenchman of much intelligence, who, on the invitation of General -Lafayette, left Washington city with us to visit the southern and -western states. Like us he had just made an excursion into the -neighbourhood, and appeared quite joyous at the discovery he had made; -he had met, in the midst of the forest, at the head of a troop of -Indians, a pretty young woman, who spoke French very well, and expressed -herself with a grace at which he appeared as much astonished as we were. -She had asked him if it was true, that Lafayette was at Kaskaskia, and -on his replying affirmatively, she manifested a great desire to see him. -“I always carry with me,” said she to Mr. de Syon, “a relique, that is -very dear to me; I would wish to show it to him; it will prove to him -that his name is not less venerated in the midst of our tribes, than -among the white Americans, for whom he fought.” And in speaking thus, -she drew from her bosom a little pouch which enclosed a letter carefully -wrapped in several pieces of paper. “It is from Lafayette,” said she, -“he wrote it to my father a long time since, and my father, when he -died, left it to me as the most precious thing he possessed.” At the -sight of this letter, Mr. de Syon proposed to the Indian girl to go with -him to Kaskaskia, assuring her that General Lafayette would be very much -pleased to see her; but this proposition seemed to embarrass her, and -under various pretexts, she refused to come. “However,” she added, “if -you have any thing to say to me this evening, you will find me in my -camp, which is close by the village; any one can direct you the way, for -I am well known at Kaskaskia. My name is Mary.” - -This recital of Mr. de Syon excited my curiosity keenly, and I would -have willingly returned with him immediately to search for Mary; but, at -this moment, a member of the committee of Kaskaskia came to inform me -that they were about to sit down to dinner, and we saw General Lafayette -going out of Colonel Edgar’s, escorted by many citizens and crossing to -Colonel Sweet’s house where we were to dine. We joined the procession -and took our places at table, where the general was seated under a -canopy of flowers prepared by the ladies of Kaskaskia, with much skill -and taste; and which produced, by the blending of the richest and most -lively colours, the effect of a rainbow. - -I spoke to General Lafayette of the meeting with the young Indian girl; -and from the desire he manifested to see her, I left the table with Mr. -de Syon, at the moment when the company began to exchange patriotic -toasts, and we sought a guide to Mary’s camp. Chance assisted us -wonderfully, in directing us to an Indian of the same tribe that we -wished to visit. Conducted by him, we crossed the bridge of Kaskaskia, -and notwithstanding the darkness, soon recognized the path and rivulet I -had seen in the morning with Mr. Caire. When we were about to enter the -enclosure, we were arrested by the fierce barking of two stout dogs -which sprang at, and would probably have bitten us, but for the timely -interference of our guide. We arrived at the middle of the camp, which -was lighted by a large fire, around which a dozen Indians were squatted, -preparing their supper; they received us with cordiality, and, as soon -as they were informed of the object of our visit, one of them conducted -us to Mary’s hut, whom we found sleeping on a bison skin. At the voice -of Mr. de Syon, which she recognized, she arose, and listened -attentively to the invitation from General Lafayette to come to -Kaskaskia; she seemed quite flattered by it, but said before deciding to -accompany us she wished to mention it to her husband. While she was -consulting with him, I heard a piercing cry; and turning round I saw -near me the old woman I had found alone in the camp in the morning: she -had just recognized me by the light of the fire, and designated me to -her companions, who, quitting immediately their occupations, rushed -round me in a circle, and began to dance with demonstrations of great -joy and gratitude. Their tawny and nearly naked bodies, their faces -fantastically painted, their expressive gesticulations, the reflection -of the fire, which gave a red tinge to all the surrounding objects, -every thing gave to this scene something of an infernal aspect, and I -fancied myself for an instant in the midst of demons. Mary, witnessing -my embarrassment, put an end to it, by ordering the dance to cease, and -then explained to me the _honours_ which they had just rendered me. -“When we wish to know if an enterprize we meditate will be happy, we -place in a rivulet a small wheel slightly supported on two stones; if -the wheel turns during three suns, without being thrown down, the augury -is favourable: but if the current carry it away, and throws it upon the -bank, it is a certain proof that our project is not approved by the -Great Spirit, unless however a stranger comes to replace the little -wheel before the end of the third day. You are this stranger who have -restored our _manitou_ and our hopes, and this is your title to be thus -celebrated among us.” In pronouncing these last words, an ironical smile -played on her lips, which caused me to doubt her faith in the _manitou_. -“You do not appear to be very much convinced,” said I to her, “of the -efficacy of the service which I have rendered you in raising the -_manitou_?” She silently shook her head; then raising her eyes, “I have -been taught,” said she, “to place my confidence higher;—all my hopes are -in the God I have been taught to believe in; the God of the Christians.” - -I had at first been much astonished to hear an Indian woman speak French -so well, and I was not less so in learning that she was a Christian; -Mary perceived it, and to put an end to my surprise, she related to me -her history, while her husband, and those who were to accompany her to -Kaskaskia, hastily took their supper, of maize cooked in milk. She -informed me that her father, who was a chief of one of the nations who -inhabited the shores of the great lakes of the north, had formerly -fought with a hundred of his followers under the orders of Lafayette, -when the latter commanded an army on the frontiers. That he had acquired -much glory, and gained the friendship of the Americans. A long time -after, that is, about twenty years ago, he left the shores of the great -lakes with some of his warriors, his wife and daughter; and after having -marched a long time, he established himself on the shores of the river -Illinois. “I was very young, then, but have not yet, however, forgotten -the horrible sufferings we endured during this long journey, made in a -rigorous winter, across a country peopled by nations with whom we were -unacquainted; they were such, that my poor mother, who nearly always -carried me on her shoulders, already well loaded with baggage, died -under them some days after our arrival; my father placed me under the -care of another woman, who also emigrated with us, and occupied himself -in securing the tranquil possession of the lands on which we had come to -establish ourselves, by forming alliances with our new neighbours. The -Kickapoos were those who received us best, and we soon considered -ourselves as forming a part of their nation. The year following my -father was chosen by them, with some from among themselves, to go and -regulate some affairs of the nation with the agent of the United States, -residing here at Kaskaskia; he wished that I should be of the company; -for, although the Kickapoos had shown themselves very generous and -hospitable towards him, he feared that some war might break out in his -absence, as he well knew the intrigues of the English to excite the -Indians against the Americans. This same apprehension induced him to -accede to the request made by the American agent, to leave me in his -family, to be educated with his infant daughter. My father had much -esteem for the whites of that great nation for whom he had formerly -fought; he never had cause to complain of them, and he who offered to -take charge of me inspired him with great confidence by the frankness of -his manners, and above all, by the fidelity with which he treated the -affairs of the Indians; he, therefore, left me, promising to return to -see me every year after the great winter’s hunt; he came, in fact, -several times afterwards; and I, notwithstanding the disagreeableness of -a sedentary life, grew up, answering the expectations of my careful -benefactor and his wife. I became attached to their daughter, who grew -up with me, and the truths of the Christian religion easily supplanted -in my mind the superstition of my fathers, whom I had scarcely known; -yet, I confess to you, notwithstanding the influence of religion and -civilization on my youthful heart, the impressions of infancy were not -entirely effaced. If the pleasure of wandering conducted me into the -shady forest, I breathed more freely, and it was with reluctance that I -returned home; when, in the cool of the evening, seated in the door of -my adopted father’s habitation, I heard in the distance, through the -silence of the night, the piercing voice of the Indians, rallying to -return to camp, I started with a thrill of joy, and my feeble voice -imitated the voice of the savage with a facility that affrighted my -young companion; and when occasionally some warriors came to consult my -benefactor in regard to their treaties, or hunters to offer him a part -of the produce of their chase, I was always the first to run to meet and -welcome them; I testified my joy to them by every imaginable means, and -I could not avoid admiring and wishing for their simple ornaments, which -appeared to me far preferable to the brilliant decorations of the -whites. - -“In the meanwhile, for five years my father had not appeared at the -period of the return from the winter’s hunting; but a warrior, whom I -had often seen with him, came and found me one evening at the entrance -of the forest, and said to me: ‘Mary, thy father is old and feeble, he -has been unable to follow us here; but he wishes to see thee once more -before he dies, and he has charged me to conduct thee to him.’ In saying -these words he forcibly took my hand, and dragged me with him. I had not -even time to reply to him, nor even to take any resolution, before we -were at a great distance, and I saw well that there was no part left for -me, but to follow him. We marched nearly all night, and at the dawn of -day, we arrived at a bark hut, built in the middle of a little valley. -Here I saw my father, his eyes turned towards the just rising sun. His -face was painted as for battle. His tomahawk ornamented with many -scalps, was beside him; he was calm and silent as an Indian who awaited -death. As soon as he saw me he drew out of a pouch a paper wrapped with -care in a very dry skin, and gave it me, requesting that I should -preserve it as a most precious thing. ‘I wished to see thee once more -before dying,’ said he, ‘and to give thee this paper, which is the most -powerful charm (_manitou_) which thou canst employ with the whites to -interest them in thy favour; for all those to whom I have shown it have -manifested towards me a particular attachment. I received it from a -great French warrior, whom the English dreaded as much as the Americans -loved, and with whom I fought in my youth.’ After these words my father -was silent, next morning he expired. Sciakape, the name of the warrior -who came for me, covered the body of my father with the branches of -trees, and took me back to my guardian.” - -Here Mary suspended her narrative, and presented to me a letter a little -darkened by time, but in good preservation. “Stay,” said she to me, -smiling, “you see that I have faithfully complied with the charge of my -father; I have taken great care of his _manitou_.” I opened the letter -and recognized the signature and handwriting of General Lafayette. It -was dated at head quarters, Albany, June, 1778, after the northern -campaign, and addressed to Panisciowa, an Indian chief of one of the Six -Nations, to thank him for the courageous manner in which he had served -the American cause. - -“Well,” said Mary, “now that you know me well enough to introduce me to -General Lafayette, shall we go to him that I may also greet him whom my -father revered as the courageous warrior and the friend of our nations?” -“Willingly,” I replied, “but it seems to me that you have promised to -inform us in what manner, after having tasted for some time the sweets -of civilization, you came to return to the rude and savage life of the -Indians?” At this question, Mary looked downwards and seemed troubled. -However, after a slight hesitation, she resumed in a lower tone: “After -the death of my father, Sciakape often returned to see me. We soon -became attached to each other; he did not find it difficult to determine -me to follow him into the forest, where I became his wife. This -resolution at first very much afflicted my benefactors; but when they -saw that I found myself happy, they pardoned me; and each year, during -all the time that our encampment is established near Kaskaskia, I rarely -pass a day without going to see them; if you wish, we can visit them, -for their house is close by our way, and you will see by the reception -they will give me, that they retain their esteem and friendship.” Mary -pronounced these last words with a degree of pride, which proved to us -that she feared that we might have formed a bad opinion of her, on -account of her flight from the home of her benefactors with Sciakape. We -accepted her proposition, and she gave the signal for departure. At her -call, her husband and eight warriors presented themselves to escort us. -M. de Syon offered her his arm, and we began our march. We were all very -well received by the family of Mr. Mesnard; but Mary above all received -the most tender marks of affection from the persons of the household. -Mr. Mesnard, Mary’s adopted father, was at Kaskaskia, as one of the -committee charged with the reception of Lafayette, and Mrs. Mesnard -asked us if we would undertake to conduct her daughter to the ball which -she herself was prevented from attending by indisposition. We assented -with pleasure; and, while Mary assisted Miss Mesnard to complete her -toilet, we seated ourselves round a great fire in the kitchen. Scarcely -were we seated, when I saw moving in the corner, a black mass, of which -I had at first a difficulty in recognising the nature and form; but, -after an attentive examination, I found it was an old negro doubled by -age. His face was so much wrinkled and deformed by time, that it was -impossible to distinguish in it a single feature, and I guessed the -place of his mouth by the little cloud of tobacco-smoke which escaped -thence, from time to time. This man appeared to give great attention to -the conversation which took place between us and a young man of Mr. -Mesnard’s family; when he understood that we travelled with General -Lafayette, and that we came from St. Louis, he asked if we had found -many Frenchmen there. I replied that we had seen some, and, among -others, Mr. Choteau, the founder of the town. “What!” cried he with a -loud voice, which seemed not to belong to so decrepid a body—“What! you -found the _little Choteau_? Oh! I know him well, so I do, that little -Choteau; we have travelled a great deal together on the Mississippi, and -that at a time when very few of the whites had come this far.” “But do -you know,” said I, “that he whom you call the little Choteau is very -old, that he is certainly more than ninety years of age?” “Oh! I believe -that well! but what of that? that does not prevent that I should know -him well, when a child.” “Of what age are you, then?” “Of that I know -nothing, as they never taught me to count. All that I know is, that I -left New Orleans with my master, who made part of the expedition sent by -the Navigation Company of the Mississippi, under the orders of the young -Choteau, to go and build a fort high up the river. Young Choteau was -hardly seventeen, but he was commander of the expedition, because his -father was, they said, one of the richest proprietors of the company. -After having rowed a long time against the current and suffered great -fatigue, we arrived at last not far from here, where we set about -building Fort Chartres. It seems as if I was now there; I see from here -the great stones which bore the great arches we built. Every one of us -said, ‘Here is a fort will last longer than us all, and longer than our -children.’ I also believed it well, and yet I have seen the last of it; -for it is now in ruins, and I am yet living. Do you know, sir, how many -years it is since we built Fort Chartres?” “At least eighty years, if I -am not deceived.” “Well, count, and you will know very nearly my age. I -was then at least thirty years old, for the little Choteau appeared to -me a child; I have already served three masters, and I have suffered a -great deal.” “According to that account, you are a hundred and ten years -old, Daddy Francis.” “Yes, indeed, I believe I am at the least that, for -it is a long time that I have laboured and suffered.” “How!” said the -young man who was seated near him, “do you suffer now, Francis?” “Oh! -pardon me, sir, I speak not of the time I have lived in this house. -Since I belonged to Mr. Mesnard it is very different; I am now happy. -Instead of serving others, they all serve me. Mr. Mesnard will not even -allow me to go and bring in a little wood for the fire; he says I am too -old for that. But I must tell the truth, Mr. Mesnard is not a master to -me; he is a man—he is a friend.” - -This homage of the old slave, rendered to the humanity of his master, -gave us a high idea of the character of Mr. Mesnard. While we were yet -listening to old Francis, Mary and Miss Mesnard came to inform us that -they were ready, and asked us if we would be on our way, as it began to -grow late. We took leave of Mrs. Mesnard, and found our Indian escort -who had waited patiently for us at the door, and who resumed their -position near us at some distance in front, to guide and protect our -march, as if we had been crossing an enemy’s country. The night was -quite dark, but the temperature was mild, and the fire-flies illuminated -the atmosphere around us. M. de Syon conducted Miss Mesnard, and I gave -my arm to Mary, who, notwithstanding the darkness, walked with a -confidence and lightness which only a forest life could produce. The -fire-flies attracted and interested me much; for, although this was not -the first time I had observed them, I had never before seen them in such -numbers. I asked Mary if these insects, which from their appearance seem -so likely to astonish the imagination, had never given place among the -Indians to popular beliefs or tales. “Not among the nations of these -countries, where every year we are familiarised with their great -numbers,” said she to me, “but I have heard that among the tribes of the -north, they commonly believe that they are the souls of departed -friends, who return to console them or demand the performance of some -promise. I even know several ballads on this subject. One of them -appears to have been made a long time since, in a nation which lives -farther north and no longer exists. It is by songs that great events and -popular traditions are ordinarily preserved among us, and this ballad, -which I have often heard sung by the young girls of our tribe, leaves no -doubt as to the belief of some Indians concerning the fire-fly.” I asked -her to sing me this song, which she did with much grace. Although I did -not comprehend the words, which were Indian, I observed a great harmony -in their arrangement, and, in the very simple music in which they were -sung, an expression of deep melancholy. - -When she had finished the ballad, I asked her if she could not translate -it for me into French, so that I might comprehend the sense. “With -difficulty,” she said, “for I have always found great obstacles to -translating exactly the expressions of our Indians into French, when I -have served them as interpreter with the whites; but I will try.” And -she translated nearly as follows: - -“The rude season of the chase was over. Antakaya, the handsomest, the -most skilful, and bravest of the Cherokee warriors, came to the banks of -the Avolachy, where he was expected by Manahella, the young virgin -promised to his love and bravery. - -“The first day of the moon of flowers was to witness their union. -Already had the two families, assembled round the same fire, given their -assent; already had the young men and women prepared and ornamented the -new cabin, which was to receive the happy couple, when, at the rising of -the sun, a terrible cry, the cry of war, sent forth by the scout who -always watches at the summit of the hill, called the old men to the -council, and the warriors to arms. - -“The whites appeared on the frontier. Murder and robbery accompanied -them. The star of fertility had not reached its noontide height, and -already Antakaya had departed at the head of his warriors to repel -robbery, murder, and the whites. - -“Go, said Manahella to him, endeavouring to stifle her grief, go fight -the cruel whites, and I will pray to the Great Spirit to wrap thee with -a cloud, proof against their blows. I will pray him to bring thee back -to the banks of the Avolachy, there to be loved by Manahella. - -“I will return to thee, replied Antakaya, I will return to thee. My -arrows have never disappointed my aim, my tomahawk shall be bathed in -the blood of the whites; I will bring back their scalps to ornament the -door of thy cabin; then I shall be worthy of Manahella; then shall we -love in peace, then shall we be happy. - -“The first day of the moon of flowers had brightly dawned, and many more -had passed away, and none had heard from Antakaya and his warriors. -Stooping on the shores of the Avolachy, the mournful Manahella every -evening raised to the evil spirits little pyramids of polished pebbles, -to appease their anger and avert their resistance to her well beloved; -but the evil spirits were inflexible, and their violent blasts overthrew -the little pyramids. - -“One evening of the last moon of flowers, Manahella met on the banks of -the river a pale and bloody warrior. ‘Die, poor ivy,’ said he to -Manahella; ‘die! the noblest oak of the forest, that proud oak under -whose shade thou hoped to enjoy repose and happiness, is fallen! It has -fallen under the redoubled strokes of the whites. In its fall it has -crushed those who felled it, but it is fallen! Die, poor ivy, die! for -the oak which was to give thee support is fallen!’—Two days after, -Manahella was no more. - -“Antakaya, whose courage had been deceived by fate, had fallen covered -with wounds into the hands of the whites, who carried him far away. But -he escaped; and after wandering long through the forest, he returned to -mourn his defeat and meditate vengeance with Manahella. When he arrived, -she was no more. Agitated by the most violent despair, he ran in the -evening to the banks of the Avolachy, calling Manahella, but the echo -alone replied to the accents of his grief. - -“O Manahella! he exclaimed, if my arrows have disappointed my skill, if -my tomahawk has not spilt the blood of the whites, if I have not brought -thee their scalps to ornament the door of thy cabin, forgive me! It is -not the fault of my courage, the evil spirits have fought against me. -And yet I have suffered no complaint to escape me, not a sigh, when the -iron of my enemies tore my breast; I have not abased myself by asking my -life! They preserved it against my will, and I am only consoled by the -hope of one day avenging myself, and offering thee many of their scalps. -O Manahella! come, if but to tell me that thou pardonest me, and that -thou permittest me to follow thee into the world of the Great Spirit. - -“At the same instant a vivid light, pure and lambent, appeared to the -eyes of the unfortunate Antakaya. He saw in it the soul of his beloved, -and followed it through the valley during all the night, supplicating it -to stay and to pardon him. At the dawn of the day he found himself on -the border of a great lake; the light had disappeared, and he believed -that it had passed over the water. Immediately, although feeble and -fatigued, he made a canoe of the trunk of a tree which he hollowed, and -with a branch he made a paddle. At the end of the day his work was -achieved. With the darkness the deceptive light returned; and during all -the night Antakaya pursued the delusion on the face of the unsteady -waters. But it again disappeared before the light of the sun, and with -it vanished the slight breath of hope and the life of Antakaya.” - -Mary ended her ballad, and I expressed to her my thanks as we arrived at -the bridge of Kaskaskia. There, Sciakape collected his escort, said a -few words to his wife, and left us to enter the village alone. We -approached the house of Mr. Morrison, at which the ball was given to -General Lafayette. I then felt that Mary trembled; her trouble was so -great that she could not conceal it from me. I asked her the cause. If -you would spare me a great mortification, she said, you will not conduct -me among the ladies of Kaskaskia. They are now without doubt in their -most brilliant dresses, and the coarseness of my clothes will inspire -them with contempt and pity, two sentiments which will equally affect -me. Besides I know that they blame me for having renounced the life of -the whites, and I feel little at ease in their presence. I promised what -she desired, and she became reassured. Arrived at Mr. Morrison’s, I -conducted her into a lower chamber, and went to the hall to inform -General Lafayette that the young Indian girl awaited him below. He -hastened down, and several of the committee with him. He saw and heard -Mary with pleasure, and could not conceal his emotion on recognizing his -letter, and observing with what holy veneration it had been preserved -during nearly half a century in a savage nation, among whom he had not -even supposed his name had ever penetrated. On her part, the daughter of -Panisciowa expressed with vivacity the happiness she enjoyed in seeing -him, along with whom her father had the honour to fight for the _good -American cause_. - -After a half hour’s conversation, in which General Lafayette was pleased -to relate the evidences of the fidelity and courageous conduct of some -Indian nations towards the Americans, during the revolutionary war, Mary -manifested a wish to retire, and I accompanied her to the bridge, where -I replaced her under the care of Sciakape and his escort, and bade them -farewell. - -At midnight, the general received the farewell of the ladies and -citizens of Kaskaskia, who were assembled at Mr. Morrison’s, and we -returned on board our boat, to continue immediately our navigation -towards the mouth of the Ohio. Governor Coles greatly wished that we -should cross that part of the state of Illinois comprised in the angle -formed by the two great rivers, and meet the boat again at Shawneetown, -where we should have been able to visit the salt mines, which are said -to be very fine; but besides that this would have taken more time than -he could devote to this visit, this route did not accord with the plan -of ascending the Cumberland river to Nashville, where the envoys from -Tennessee were charged to conduct him. Mr. Coles embarked with us to -accompany the general to the state of Tennessee, and we felt a real -pleasure on account of it, for he is a man of agreeable conversation and -extraordinary merit. All persons agree in saying that he fulfils his -duties as governor with as much philanthropy as justice. He owes his -elevation to the office of governor, to his opinions on the abolition of -the slavery of the blacks. He was originally a proprietor in Virginia, -where, according to the custom of the country, he cultivated his lands -by negro slaves. After having for a long time strongly expressed his -aversion for this kind of culture, he thought it his duty to put in -practice the principles he had professed, and he decided to give liberty -to all his slaves; but knowing that their emancipation in Virginia would -be more injurious than useful to them, he took them all with him into -the state of Illinois, where he not only gave them their liberty, but -also established them at his own expense, in such a manner that they -should be able to procure for themselves a happy existence by their -labour. This act of justice and humanity considerably diminished his -fortune, but occasioned him no regrets. At this period, some men, led -astray by ancient prejudices, endeavoured to amend that article of the -constitution of the state of Illinois, which prohibits slavery: Mr. -Coles opposed these men with all the ardour of his philanthropic soul, -and with all the superiority of his enlightened mind. In this honourable -struggle, he was sustained by the people of Illinois; justice and -humanity triumphed, and soon after Mr. Coles was elected governor, by an -immense majority. This was an honourable recompense, and to this there -is now joined another which must be very grateful to him; his liberated -negroes are perfectly successful, and afford a conclusive argument -against the adversaries of emancipation. - -Some hours after our departure from Kaskaskia, we were at the mouth of -the Ohio, which we ascended to the mouth of Cumberland river, where we -arrived before night. There we awaited the steam-boat Artizan, to take -us to Nashville. When it was necessary for us to quit the Natchez, and -our travelling companions from Louisiana, we experienced an oppression -of feeling as if we were quitting our family and home. This feeling will -be easily comprehended, when it is understood that we had passed nearly -a month and travelled nearly eighteen hundred miles on board this boat, -in the midst of a society, amiable, intelligent, and obliging, and of -which each individual had become for us an amiable friend. On their -side, Messieurs Morse, Ducros, Prieur, and Caire, manifested to us -regrets not less sincere. Notwithstanding their long absence from New -Orleans, they would have voluntarily prolonged their mission, to pass a -longer time with their dear Lafayette; and our excellent Captain Davis -warmly expressed his regrets at seeing another vessel than his own about -to receive the nation’s guest; but on the other hand, the envoys from -Tennessee were not disposed to cede to others the right of doing the -honours of their state; and even if they had chosen to accept the -services of Captain Davis, they were forced to renounce them, because -the Natchez was unfit to navigate the shallow waters of the Cumberland. -We were, therefore, obliged to take leave of the Louisianian committee, -and that of the state of Mississippi, with great regret, and go on board -of the Artizan, where we were received and treated in a manner that -foretold we would soon experience a renewal of our sorrow in separating -from our new companions. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - Cumberland River—Arrival at Nashville—Tennessee Militia—Residence of - General Jackson—Shipwreck on the Ohio—Louisville—Journey from - Louisville to Cincinnati by land—State of Kentucky—Anecdote. - - -On the 2d of May, at 8 o’clock in the evening, we entered Cumberland -river, which we ascended all night, notwithstanding the darkness. This -river, which is one of the largest tributaries of the Ohio, rises to the -westward of Cumberland mountains, waters the state of Kentucky by its -two branches, and Ohio by its main stream, which forms a great bend; it -is navigable for about 400 miles. By daylight we were able to judge of -the richness of the country it traverses, from the great number of -boats, loaded with all kinds of produce, that we passed. As the banks of -Cumberland river are flat, and sometimes swampy, from its mouth to the -vicinity of Nashville, no town is met with on its shores; all the -establishments are situated some distance back, and, therefore, we were -unable to visit them; but many of the inhabitants came in boats to -salute the general, this retarded our progress, as we were obliged to -stop every moment to receive or dismiss the visiters. - -Wednesday, May 4th, we remarked that the banks of the river were -considerably elevated above our heads, and presented agreeable and -healthy situations for cities or villages; at 8 o’clock no houses were, -as yet, in sight, but we heard in the distance the sound of bells, -announcing our vicinity to population, and preparations for some -solemnity; a few moments afterwards we perceived on the horizon the -spires of buildings, and on a plain at a short distance from us a dense -crowd of men, women, and children, who appeared to be expecting with -great solicitude the arrival of something extraordinary, and when our -vessel came sufficiently near to be recognized, a joyful shout arose -from the shore, and the air resounded with cries of “Welcome, -Lafayette;” this was the salutation of the inhabitants of Nashville to -the guest of the nation. This welcome was continued without interruption -until we had arrived beyond the city, at the place for disembarking, -where the general was received by the illustrious Jackson, who ascended -a carriage with him to conduct him to Nashville, several corps of -cavalry preceded them, and the procession formed behind them was -composed of all our fellow travellers, joined by a multitude of citizens -from the neighbourhood; we entered the city by a wide avenue, lined on -each side by militia remarkable for the brilliancy of their uniforms, -and their soldier-like appearance under arms; it was easy to recognise -by their martial air, that their ranks contained great numbers of those -intrepid citizen soldiers, by whom the English were overthrown under the -walls of New Orleans. In entering the city, the procession passed under -a triumphal arch, on the summit of which were these words, also repeated -at every moment by the crowd, “_Welcome, Lafayette, the friend of the -United States!_” Above this floated the American flag, attached to a -lance surmounted by a liberty cap. After having traversed the principal -streets, we arrived at the public square, which was decorated with -thousands of flags, suspended from the windows; it was also ornamented -by a triumphal arch, under which was an elevated platform, where the -governor of the state waited to salute the guest of the nation. His -speech was not only touching from the sentiments of affection and -gratitude with which it was filled, but it was also remarkable for the -truth and fidelity with which it sketched the actual situation of -Tennessee, and the rapidity of its growth under the influence of liberty -and wise laws. General Lafayette replied with that heartfelt emotion, -and that happy choice of expression, which so often, during his journey, -excited the astonishment and admiration of those who heard him. Forty -officers and soldiers of the revolution, the most part enfeebled by age, -and some mutilated in war, notwithstanding which they had assembled from -all parts of the state to assist at the triumph of their old general, -now advanced from the two sides of the arch, amidst the acclamations of -the people, and showered upon him marks of affection and patriotic -recollections; among them was one, remarkable above all the others for -his great age, and the vivacity with which he expressed his joy; he -threw himself into the general’s arms, weeping and exclaiming, “I have -enjoyed two happy days in my life, that when I landed with you at -Charleston in 1777, and the present, now that I have seen you once -again, I have nothing more to wish for, I have lived long enough.” The -emotion of this old man was communicated to the whole crowd, and there -was a profound silence for some time. Notwithstanding his infirmities he -had travelled more than fifty leagues to procure this moment of -happiness. We afterwards learnt that his name was Hagy, that he was born -in Germany, and that he had come over to America in the vessel with -Lafayette, and had been under his orders during the whole war of the -revolution. General Lafayette, after devoting a few moments to the -affection of his old companions in arms, re-entered the carriage with -the governor, and went to the beautiful residence of Dr. M’Nairy, who -had prepared accommodations for us, and who, with his whole family, -received us with the most amiable hospitality. The general was received -at the door by the municipal body and the mayor, who addressed him in -the name of the inhabitants of Nashville. After the reply of the general -to this speech, the people gave three cheers, and retired in silence, to -permit their guest to take a little repose before dinner; but the -general profited by this occasion to visit Mrs. Jackson, whom he -understood to be in the town, and to Mrs. Littlefield, the daughter of -his old fellow soldier and friend, General Greene. - -At four o’clock another procession came to conduct us to a public -dinner, at which more than two hundred citizens sat down, and which was -presided over by General Jackson. Among the guests was a venerable old -man, named Timothy Demundrune, the first white man who settled in -Tennessee. According to the American custom, the repast was terminated -by the frank and energetic expression of each guest’s opinion on the -acts of the administration, and the public character of the magistrates, -and candidates for the different offices; among these numerous toasts I -will only cite the three following, which appeared to me as peculiarly -well adapted to demonstrate the predominant sentiments of the people of -Tennessee. - -“The present age—it encourages the reign of liberal principles. Kings -are forced to unite against liberty, and despotism to act on the -defensive.” - -“France—republican or monarchical, in glory or misfortune, she always -has claims on our gratitude.” - -“Lafayette—tyrants have oppressed him, but freemen honour him.” - -After this last toast, the general rose, expressed his thanks, and -begged permission to give the following: “The State of Tennessee, and -Nashville, its capital—may our heritage of revolutionary glory be for -ever united to the unfading laurels of the last war, and thus form a -perpetual bond of union between all parts of the American -confederation.” - -The president then gave the signal for departure, and we went to the -masonic lodge, where three hundred brothers, in the most brilliant -costume, received us with the most affectionate cordiality. We passed a -true family evening with them. An eloquent orator, Mr. William Hunt, -delivered an excellent discourse, which, in a masonic form, embodied the -most noble precepts of patriotism and philanthropy; and the meeting -terminated by an elegant collation, at the end of which the general -proposed a toast, which was received with the greatest enthusiasm; it -was to the memory of our illustrious brother Riego, the martyr of -liberty! In retiring to our quarters at Dr. M‘Nairy’s, we found the town -brilliantly illuminated, and a great number of houses decorated with -transparencies representing General Lafayette, with a variety of -ingenious emblems. - -The next morning, as soon as we rose, we proceeded to the southward of -the city, where we found all the militia of the adjoining counties -collected in a camp, which they occupied for some days whilst waiting -for the arrival of Lafayette; some of the corps we saw under arms, had -come, we were told, more than fifty miles, to add by their presence to -the solemnity of the reception given to the guest of the nation. The -general, after having seen them manœuvre before him, went through their -ranks to express his admiration of their discipline, and his gratitude -for the proofs of affection they had shown him. During this time, Mr. -George Lafayette and myself conversed with an officer of the staff, who -had the goodness to give us some details as to the organization of the -military force of Tennessee. - -This officer might perhaps be thought to have been enthusiastic in his -praises, and to have shown much national vanity, but I am persuaded he -only spoke as he felt. He extolled the military qualities of his fellow -citizens, from conviction, and as he would have praised, in strangers, -any points he thought worthy of commendation. I have often remarked that -the Americans, in general, are little given to the species of hypocrisy -we term modesty, and with which we think we should always veil ourselves -when we are speaking of our own virtues. They believe, and I am of their -opinion, that true modesty does not consist in depreciating ourselves, -but in not speaking with exaggeration or without cause of our own -merits. - -A frugal repast, prepared and served by the military, under a tent, -terminated this visit to the camp of the Tennessee militia, after which -we returned to the city, where we successively visited an academy of -young ladies of Nashville, and Cumberland college. In both these -establishments, the general was received as a beloved father, and he -left them with the sweet and consoling certainty, that the careful and -excellent manner in which they inculcated learning and a love of -liberty, would greatly augment the glory and perpetuate the happiness of -his adopted country. The committee of instruction of Cumberland college, -presented to him and to General Jackson, a resolution of the trustees, -by which two new chairs, under the names of Lafayette and Jackson, for -teaching the languages and philosophy, were about to be established by a -voluntary subscription of the citizens of Tennessee. They both accepted -this honour with great satisfaction, and subscribed their names at the -bottom of the resolution before leaving the establishment, which, -although recently formed, already promises the most satisfactory -results. - -At one o’clock, we embarked with a numerous company, to proceed to dine -with General Jackson, whose residence is a few miles up the river. We -there found numbers of ladies and farmers from the neighbourhood, whom -Mrs. Jackson had invited to partake of the entertainment she had -prepared for General Lafayette. The first thing that struck me on -arriving at the general’s, was the simplicity of his house. Still -somewhat influenced by my European habits, I asked myself if this could -really be the dwelling of the most popular man in the United States, of -him whom the country proclaimed one of her most illustrious defenders; -of him, finally, who by the will of the people was on the point of -becoming her chief magistrate. One of our fellow passengers, a citizen -of Nashville, witnessing my astonishment, asked me, whether in France, -our public men, that is to say, the servants of the public, lived very -differently from other citizens? “Certainly,” said I; “thus, for -example, the majority of our generals, all our ministers, and even the -greater part of our subaltern administrators, would think themselves -dishonoured, and would not dare to receive any one at their houses, if -they only possessed such a residence as this of Jackson’s; and the -modest dwellings of your illustrious chiefs of the revolution, -Washington, John Adams, Jefferson, &c. would only inspire them with -contempt and disgust. They must first have in the city an immense and -vast edifice, called a hotel, in which two large families could live -with ease, but which they fill with a crowd of servants strangely and -ridiculously dressed, and whose only employment, for the most part, is -to insult those honest citizens who come on foot to visit their master. -They must also have another large establishment in the country, which -they call a chateau, and in which they accumulate all the luxuries of -furniture, decorations, entertainments, and dress, in fact, every thing -that can make them forget the country. Then they must have, to enable -them to go from one to the other of these habitations, a great number of -carriages, horses, and servants.” “Very well,” interrupted the -Tennessean, shaking his head as if in doubt, “but who provides these -public officers with all the money thus swallowed up in luxury, and how -do the affairs of the people go on?” “If you ask them, they will tell -you that it is the king who pays them, although I can assure you that it -is the nation, which is borne down by taxes for the purpose; as to -business, it is both well and badly attended to, but generally the -latter.” “And why do you submit to such a state of things?” “Because we -cannot remedy it.” “What! you cannot remedy it? A nation so great, so -enlightened as the French, cannot prevent its officers, magistrates, and -servants, from enjoying, at their expense, a scandalous and immoral -luxuriousness, and at the same time not attending to their duties! -whilst we, who have just assumed our name among nations, are enjoying -the immense advantage of only having for magistrates, men who are plain, -honest, laborious, and more jealous of our esteem than solicitous for -wealth. Permit me to believe that what you have told is only pleasantry, -and that you wished to amuse yourself for a moment with a poor -Tennessean who has never visited Europe. But rest assured, that however -ignorant we may be of what passes on the other side of the water, it is -not easy to make us credit things which militate so strongly against -good sense and the dignity of man.” Do what I could, I could never make -this good citizen of Nashville believe that I was not jesting, and was -obliged to leave him in the belief that we were not worse governed in -France than in the United States. - -General Jackson successively showed us his garden and farm, which -appeared to be well cultivated. We every where remarked the greatest -order, and most perfect neatness; and we might have believed ourselves -on the property of one of the richest and most skilful of the German -farmers, if, at every step, our eyes had not been afflicted by the sad -spectacle of slavery. Every body told us that General Jackson’s slaves -were treated with the greatest humanity, and several persons assured us, -that it would not surprise them, if, in a short time, their master, who -already had so many claims on the gratitude of his fellow citizens, -should attempt to augment it still more, by giving an example of gradual -emancipation to Tennessee, which would be the more easily accomplished, -as there are in this state but 79,000 slaves in a population of 423,000, -and from the public mind becoming more inclined than formerly to the -abolition of slavery. - -On returning to the house, some friends of General Jackson, who probably -had not seen him for some time, begged him to show them the arms -presented to him in honour of his achievements during the last war; he -acceded to their request with great politeness, and placed on a table, a -sword, a sabre, and a pair of pistols. The sword was presented to him by -congress; the sabre, I believe, by the army which fought under his -command at New Orleans. These two weapons, of American manufacture, were -remarkable for their finish, and still more so for the honourable -inscriptions, with which they were covered. But it was to the pistols, -that General Jackson wished more particularly to draw our attention; he -handed them to General Lafayette, and asked him if he recognized them. -The latter, after examining them attentively for a few minutes, replied -that he fully recollected them, to be a pair he had presented in 1778 to -his paternal friend Washington, and that he experienced a real -satisfaction in finding them in the hands of one so worthy of possessing -them. At these words the face of old Hickory was covered with a modest -blush, and his eye sparkled as in a day of victory. “Yes! I believe -myself worthy of them,” exclaimed he, in pressing the pistols and -Lafayette’s hands to his breast; “if not from what I have done, at least -for what I wished to do for my country.” All the bystanders applauded -this noble confidence of the patriot hero, and were convinced that the -weapons of Washington could not be in better hands than those of -Jackson. - -After dinner we took leave of General Jackson’s family, and returned to -Nashville to attend a public ball which was very brilliant; and -afterwards went on board the Artisan to continue our journey. Governor -Carroll of Tennessee and two of his aides-de-camp accompanied us. We -rapidly descended the Cumberland, and on the 7th of May again entered -the Ohio, otherwise called “_la belle rivière_,” for it was thus the -first French who discovered its shores designated this majestic body of -water, which for eleven hundred miles waters the most smiling and -fertile country on the globe. The Ohio is formed by the junction of the -Monongahela and Alleghany at Pittsburgh, and empties itself into the -Mississippi about the 37° of latitude. Its current is usually about a -mile and a half per hour, but when the waters are high, it often equals -that of the Mississippi, whose ordinary swiftness is four miles per -hour. The water of the Ohio is said by the Americans to possess great -prolific powers, and when you demand on what ground they found this -opinion, they proudly point out the numerous dwellings which are -infinitely multiplied on its banks, and the prodigious number of -children who issue forth every morning, with a little basket of -provision on their arms, to spend the day at school, to return in the -evening to the paternal roof, singing the benefits of liberty. - -On the 8th at break of day, we arrived opposite Shawneetown, where we -landed with Governor Coles and the other members of the committee from -the state of Illinois, and who, to our great regret, could not accompany -us any farther. General Lafayette accepted a dinner provided for him by -the inhabitants of that town. We continued our voyage, urging the speed -of our small vessel with the whole power of the engine. Notwithstanding -the departure of Governor Coles and his companions, we still had a -numerous company on board. All the beds in the great cabin, were -occupied by the deputations from Missouri, Tennessee, Kentucky, and by -other persons who had asked permission to accompany General Lafayette to -Louisville. The general, his son, Mr. de Syon, and the author of this -journal, shared in common, what is called the ladies’ cabin, situated in -the stern of the vessel, and which could only be reached by descending -about a dozen steps. - -During the whole of the 8th we worked hard. The general replied to a -great number of letters, which were addressed to him every day from all -parts of the Union, and dictated to me some directions to the -superintendant at La Grange; indicating what changes and improvements he -wished made before his return to France. Being somewhat fatigued by this -labour, he retired early to bed, and was already asleep, when at 10 -o’clock, Mr. George Lafayette, coming below from the deck where he had -been walking, expressed his astonishment that in so dark a night, our -captain did not come to, or at least abate the speed of the vessel. We -fully agreed in the justice of this remark, but being accustomed for -some months to permit no difficulty to arrest us, and to travel at all -times, we soon began to speak of other things, and Mr. George Lafayette -also laid down and slept with every feeling of safety. I remained -conversing with Mr. de Syon and correcting some notes. With the -exception of the pilot and two men, every body was asleep around us, and -at 11 o’clock the profound silence that reigned on board, was only -broken by the deep grating of the engine and the dashing of the water -against the sides of the vessel. Twelve o’clock struck, and sleep was -beginning to invite us to repose, when our vessel suddenly received a -horrible shock, and stopped short. At this extraordinary concussion, the -general awoke with a start, his son sprung from his bed, half dressed, -and I ran on deck to learn what was the matter. I there found two of our -fellow passengers, whom anxiety had brought up, but who were returning, -saying we had probably struck on a sand bank, and that there was no -danger. Not trusting this opinion, I went into the great cabin; all the -passengers were in a state of great agitation, but still in doubt as to -the nature of the accident; some had not even quitted their beds. -Decided on not going below without positively ascertaining the real -state of things, I seized a light and ran forward, the captain arrived -there about the same time, we opened the hatches, and ran forward; the -hold was already half filled with water, which rushed in torrents -through a large opening. “A snag! a snag!” cried the captain, “hasten -Lafayette to my boat! bring Lafayette to my boat.” This cry of distress -had reached the great cabin, and every mouth repeated it with dismay, -but it had not been heard in our cabin, where I found the general, who -had, by the advice of his son, permitted himself to be partly dressed by -his faithful Bastien. “What news?” said he, on seeing me enter. “That we -shall go to the bottom, general, if we cannot extricate ourselves, and -we have not a moment to spare.” And I immediately began to collect my -papers, which I threw pell-mell into my port-folio; George Lafayette on -his part, hastily collected those objects he thought most necessary to -his father, and begged him to follow us, but his toilet not being yet -made, he wished us to go first and provide means of escape. “What!” -cried his son, “do you think that in such circumstances we will leave -you for a moment?” and immediately we each seized a hand and dragged him -towards the door. He followed us, smiling at our haste, and began to -ascend with us, but had scarcely reached the middle of the stairs, when -he perceived that he had forgotten his snuff-box, ornamented with a -picture of Washington, and wished to return for it; I went to the end of -the cabin, found it and brought it to him. At this time the rolling of -the vessel was so violent and irregular, and the tumult over our heads -augmented to such a degree, that I believed we should not have time to -escape before she sunk. At last, we reached the deck, where all the -passengers were in the greatest confusion, some bringing their trunks, -others looking for the boat, and crying out for Lafayette. He was -already in the midst of them, but owing to the darkness of the night, no -one recognised him; the boat heeled so much to starboard, that it was -with difficulty we could keep our footing on deck. The captain assisted -by two sailors, had brought his boat to this side, and I heard his -sonorous voice crying out, Lafayette! Lafayette! but we could not reach -him on account of the confusion around us. Nevertheless the vessel -heeled more and more, each moment augmented the danger, we felt that it -was time to make a last effort, and pushed into the middle of the crowd, -where I cried, “here is General Lafayette!” This exclamation produced -the effect I anticipated. The most profound silence succeeded to the -confusion, a free passage was opened for us, and all those who were -ready to spring into the boat, spontaneously checked themselves, not -wishing to think of their own safety before that of Lafayette was -ascertained. The difficulty was now to determine the general himself to -depart before all his fellow passengers, and almost alone, for the boat -would only hold a few persons, but he was soon obliged to yield to the -will of all, energetically expressed by each; the irregular concussions -of the vessel, and the rocking of the boat which was more than four feet -lower than our deck, rendered a passage from one to the other extremely -difficult, especially in the dark. The most active young man would not -have hazarded a leap, for from the darkness he would have risked -plunging in the water; great precautions were therefore to be adopted, -as regarded the general. I went first into the boat, and whilst the -captain kept her as near as possible to the vessel, two persons -descended with the general, holding him under the shoulders. I received -him in my arms, but his weight added to my own on the side of the boat, -nearly capsized it, and losing my equilibrium, I should probably have -fallen into the water with him, if Mr. Thibeaudot, formerly president of -the senate of Louisiana, had not given me his support, and thus saved us -both. As soon as we were assured that the general was safely on board, -we pushed off as rapidly as possible, to prevent the other passengers -from overloading our slight batteau. Although the greatest difficulties -were overcome, all danger was not passed. The land was to be made; but -at what distance was it from us? towards what shore should we direct our -course? This the darkness of the night prevented us from ascertaining -with certainty. Our captain soon made up his mind with decision. Holding -the rudder with a firm grasp, he directed us to the left bank, and -ordered his two sailors to row gently. In less than three minutes we -happily reached a bank covered with a thick wood. - -In landing, our first care was to count and recognise each other; we -were nine: the captain, two sailors, General Lafayette, Mr. Thibeaudot, -Doctor Shelly, carrying in his arms a child of about seven years of age, -a daughter of a presbyterian clergyman, the father of the child and -myself. It was then only that the general perceived that his son was not -with him, and immediately his habitual coolness in the presence of -danger abandoned him. He was filled with anxiety, and in a state of the -most violent agitation. He began to call, George! George! with all his -strength, but his voice was drowned by the cries which arose from the -vessel, and by the terrible noise made by the steam escaping from the -engine, and received no answer. In vain, to re-assure him, I represented -to him that his son was a good swimmer, and that he doubtless had -remained on board voluntarily, and with his coolness he would escape all -danger. Nothing had any effect; he continued to traverse the shore -calling on George. I then threw myself into the boat with the captain to -go to the succour of those who so much needed it. The vessel still -floated, but almost on her beam ends. The captain mounted on board, and -I received in his place a dozen persons, who precipitated themselves -into the boat, and whom I carried to land, without having been able to -speak to George, Mr. de Syon, or Bastien. I dared not give an account of -this first attempt to the general, and therefore made preparations for -another trip, when a horrible crash and cries of despair announced to me -that the vessel was sinking. At the same instant, I heard the water -agitated in several directions by the efforts of those who were saving -themselves by swimming. Mr. Thibeaudot, who had advanced into the water -in order to judge better of what was passing, and to afford assistance -to those who needed it, perceived a man, exhausted with fatigue, -drowning a few paces from the shore, in a spot where the water was only -three feet in depth. He drew him out with such ease, that a child might -have rendered him the same service, and laid him on the grass. But the -unfortunate man was so agitated by fear, that he continued to make on -land all the movements of swimming, and would perhaps have killed -himself by these useless efforts, if Mr. Thibeaudot had not succeeded in -calming him. At every instant, other persons arrived on shore, and among -them I always expected to recognise Mr. George Lafayette; and the -general demanded news of his son from all, but in vain. I now myself -began to fear for him. Another arrival of the boat informed us that the -vessel had not entirely sunk; that the starboard side was under water, -but that the larboard and gangway were still above it; and that a great -number of passengers had taken refuge there. Thinking that there was an -urgent necessity for succouring those who remained in this critical -situation, I again entered the boat, and aided by a sailor approached -the vessel. I first arrived at the prow; I called George with all my -strength, but there was no answer. I then dropped along her side to the -stern. In passing, I heard a voice over head cry out, “Is that you, Mr. -Levasseur?” I listened and examined attentively; it was our poor -Bastien, who was holding with difficulty to the roof of the upper cabin, -the pitch of which was very great from the oversetting of the vessel. As -soon as I came near him, he slid down and fortunately fell into the -boat. When I arrived at the stern, I again called George; he instantly -answered me. His voice appeared to be perfectly calm. “Are you in -safety?” said I. “I could not be better,” replied he gaily. This reply -gave me much relief, for my fears were really becoming serious. At the -same instant, Mr. Walsh of Missouri, who was near him, gave me every -thing that could be saved of our baggage. This was a small portmanteau -of Mr. George Lafayette’s, a bag of his father’s, my own port-folio, -which I had thrown on the deck when I was aiding the general to descend, -and about sixty out of the two hundred letters we had prepared for the -post, on the preceding days; all the others were lost. I now returned to -land with Bastien and two other persons I had received in the boat, and -hastened to assure the general of the safety of his son. - -As I had satisfied myself that the vessel, having found support, could -not sink any deeper, and consequently that there was no farther danger -to those on board, I thought that I might dispense with making other -voyages, and occupy myself a little with the general, for whom we -established a good bivouac around a large fire of dry branches. In the -midst of this occupation, Mr. George and Mr. de Syon, with the remainder -of the passengers, arrived. We then learnt that at the moment of the -wreck, Mr. George, seeing that I was in the boat to watch over his -father, had returned to the cabin, into which the water had already -penetrated, and had made Bastien and Mr. de Syon, who were imprudently -endeavouring to save their effects, leave it. Then, only yielding ground -as the water forced him, he had indefatigably occupied himself with the -care of those around him. At one moment, the water reached to the middle -of his body. But his coolness and presence of mind reassured some -persons, who, without him, would perhaps have been dismayed and exposed -to the greatest danger. Finally, we were told, he would not leave the -vessel, until he was satisfied, that all who remained on board belonged -to her and could dispense with his assistance. “Mr. George Lafayette -must often have been shipwrecked,” said the captain, “for he has behaved -tonight as if he was accustomed to such adventures.” - -From other accounts, it appears that almost immediately after the -departure of the general, the water entered our cabin with a violence -which would not have permitted us to leave it, if we had remained there -a few minutes longer. - -When we were well assured that no person had perished, we lighted -several large fires as well for the purpose of drying ourselves, as to -discover our situation. The general slept for some moments on a mattrass -which had been found floating, and was nearly dry on one side. The rest -waited impatiently for day, and occupied ourselves in cutting wood to -keep up the fires. A tolerably heavy rain added to our troubles, but -fortunately it was not of long continuance. - -At day break, they recommenced their trips to the vessel, to endeavour -to save some of the baggage and to procure food. The captain, Governor -Carrol of Tennessee, and a young Virginian, Mr. Crawford, directed these -researches with great activity. It was a singular and touching event, to -see a governor of a state, that is to say, a first magistrate of a -republic, without shoes, stockings or hat, doing the duty of a boatman -as if it had been his real occupation, and that much more for the -benefit of others than for himself, for he had very little on board to -lose by the shipwreck. Those different searches obtained us a trunk -belonging to the general, in which were his most valuable papers, and a -small part of the passengers’ baggage. They also brought a leg of smoked -venison, some biscuits, a case of claret and a keg of Madeira. With -these provisions, about fifty men, for such was our number, repaired -their strength, exhausted by a night of labour and anxiety. - -The day, on its return, shone on an interesting picture. The shore was -covered with wrecks of all kinds, in the midst of which each eagerly -searched for their own property; some mournfully recounted the extent of -their losses, others could not avoid laughing at the nakedness or -costume in which they found themselves; this gaiety soon became -prevalent, and pleasantries circulated around the fires of our bivouac, -and at last smoothed the visages of the most sorrowful, and almost -transformed our shipwreck into a party of pleasure. - -At nine o’clock we induced the general to cross the river, and go to a -house we perceived on the other bank, to shelter himself from the storm -which threatened us. Mr. Thibeaudot and Bastien accompanied him. He had -scarcely left us, when one of the party, who was on the look out on the -shore, pointed out to us a steam-boat descending the river, and -immediately afterwards another. This double news filled us with joy and -hope. Soon these two vessels arrived opposite to us and stopped. One of -them, a vessel of large size and remarkable beauty, was the Paragon; she -came from Louisville and was going to New Orleans, with a heavy cargo of -whiskey and tobacco. By a very lucky circumstance for us, one of our -companions in misfortune, Mr. Neilson, was one of the owners of this -vessel, and hastened to put it at the disposal of the Tennessee -committee to transport General Lafayette, generously taking on himself -all the chances of another misfortune and the loss of insurance. -Immediately our whole party, abandoning our bivouac, repaired on board -of the Paragon. Before leaving the captain of the Artisan, who remained -with his vessel to endeavour to save something, we offered him our -services, which he peremptorily refused, assuring us that he had hands -enough for this work. But the poor man was very much depressed, not from -the loss of the vessel, nor that of 1200 dollars he had on board, or -even from any fear of not finding employment; his grief arose from -having shipwrecked the guest of the nation. “Never,” said he, “will my -fellow citizens pardon me for the perils to which Lafayette was exposed -last night.” To endeavour to calm him, we drew up and all signed a -declaration, in which we attested that the loss of the Artisan could not -be attributed either to the unskilfulness or imprudence of Captain Hall, -whose courage and disinterestedness had been experienced by us all -during the accident. This declaration, which was sincere on the part of -all the signers, appeared to give him great pleasure, but did not -entirely console him. As soon as the Paragon got under way, I went with -Mr. George Lafayette in search of his father. After half an hour’s -rowing, we re-joined our new vessel, which in two days, and without -accident, conducted us to Louisville, where we remained twenty-four -hours. It was about 125 miles from that place, near the mouth of Deer -Creek, that we met with our misfortune. - -The entertainments given to General Lafayette at Louisville were marred -by the stormy weather; but the expression of public feeling was not the -less pleasing to him. The idea of the danger he had incurred, excited in -all breasts a tender solicitude, which every one testified with that -simplicity and truth of expression only appertaining to freemen. In the -midst of the joy occasioned by the arrival of Lafayette, the citizens of -Louisville did not forget the noble disinterestedness of Mr. Neilson, to -whom they presented the strongest proofs of gratitude. His name was -coupled with that of the general, in the toasts they gave at the public -dinner. The insurance company declared that the Paragon should remain -insured without an additional charge, and the city presented him a -magnificent piece of plate, on which was engraved the thanks of the -Tennesseans and Kentuckians for the generous manner in which he had -risked the greater part of his fortune that the national guest should -receive no delay nor inconvenience in his journey. - -The day after our arrival, notwithstanding the badness of the weather, -the general crossed the Ohio to accept the invitation that was sent him -by the citizens of Jeffersonville in the state of Indiana. He remained -there some hours, and returned in the evening to Louisville to attend a -dinner, ball, and various spectacles that had been prepared for him. On -Friday morning, the 12th of May, after having presented a standard to a -corps of volunteer cavalry that had been expressly formed some days -previous, to escort him on his arrival, he began his journey by land to -Cincinnati, passing through the state of Kentucky, as he wished to visit -its principal towns, Frankfort, Lexington, &c. Governor Carrol, who, -after having fulfilled his mission, in placing the guest of the nation -under the care of the Kentucky committee, wished to return home, with -his staff, yielded to the pressing invitations which were given him by -the committee to accompany General Lafayette yet farther. On the day of -our departure, all the militia were under arms. We found, by their -excellent discipline, armament and uniforms, that they strongly -resembled those of Tennessee, with whom they are united in brotherly -feeling, to which the events of the last war gave a new force. - -At the end of our first day’s journey, we arrived at Shelbyville, a -large and flourishing village, situated in the midst of a most fertile -and diversified country; the next day, at four o’clock in the afternoon, -the general made his entrance into Frankfort, the seat of government of -Kentucky. The entertainments given on this occasion by the inhabitants -of the town, to which were joined those of the neighbouring counties, -were very brilliant, and strongly impressed with that ardent and -patriotic character which distinguishes all the states of the Union, but -which, among the Kentuckians, is more manifest, and expressed with all -the energy of a young people, enthusiastic in the cause of liberty. - -After having traversed the principal streets of Frankfort, we arrived in -the centre of the town, where we stopped in front of a triumphal arch, -under which the governor waited for the guest of the nation; the sound -of a cannon, discharged from a neighbouring hill which overlooked all -the neighbourhood, arrested the acclamations of the people, when the -governor advanced in the midst of a profoundly silent and attentive -crowd, and delivered an eloquent and appropriate address. This discourse -was loudly applauded by the multitude, and I heard it asserted every -where around me that it was impossible to express the sentiments of the -people of Kentucky with greater exactness. - -After passing several hours in receiving visits and marks of friendship -from the whole population, the general went to a dinner that had been -prepared for him in the public square. The table was of a semi-circular -form, and contained places for eight hundred persons, in order that all -the detachments of militia that had escorted General Lafayette from -Louisville might be accommodated, as well as a great number of officers -from Tennessee and Kentucky, who had particularly distinguished -themselves during the last war, as General Adair, Colonel M‘Affee, &c. - -Notwithstanding his desire to avoid transgressing any of the established -customs of the United States, the general was obliged to travel on -Sunday, for his time was rigorously appropriated until his arrival at -Boston, where he was obliged to be on the 17th of June. We therefore set -out on Saturday, the 14th of May, from Frankfort, and travelling almost -without stopping, till we reached Lexington, which we entered on Monday, -about the middle of the day. On the way, we visited the pretty little -town of Versailles, where we remained some hours, to attend a public -dinner, given by the citizens of the town and the surrounding country; -and we slept on Sunday night about three miles from Lexington, where, on -Monday morning, a large body of militia cavalry, conducted by a -deputation from Lafayette county, arrived to escort the general. The -procession was formed on an eminence from whence we could discover -Louisville in the distance, with the fertile fields that surrounded it. -We took up the line of march about eight o’clock. The rain fell in -torrents, and the sky covered with thick clouds, presaged a bad day; but -at the moment we began to enter the town, a discharge of artillery from -a neighbouring hill announced the arrival of the procession; and at this -signal the rain ceased, as if by enchantment, the clouds dispersed, and -the returning sun discovered to us the neighbouring country, covered -with crowds of people anxiously expecting the arrival of the national -guest. This almost magic scene added still more to the enthusiasm of the -multitude, and their joyful acclamations were mingled with the continued -roar of artillery which surrounded us. The entertainments at Lexington -were extremely brilliant; but of the proofs of public felicity, that -which most attracted the general’s attention, was the developement and -rapid progress of instruction among all classes of people. In fact, is -it not an admirable and astonishing circumstance, to find in a country, -which not forty years ago was covered with immense forests, inhabited by -savages, a handsome town of six thousand inhabitants, and containing two -establishments for public instruction, which, by the number of their -pupils, and the variety and nature of the branches taught, may rival the -most celebrated colleges and universities in the principal towns of -Europe? We first visited the college for young men, superintended by -President Holly, who received the general at the door of the -establishment, and addressed him in an eloquent speech, in which, after -having described what Lafayette had accomplished in his youth, for the -liberation of North America, he expressed a regret that his efforts had -not been equally successful in the regeneration of France. Then -reverting to a more consoling topic, he rapidly sketched a picture of -American prosperity and the happy influence his visit would produce on -the rising generation. - -The general replied to the various points of President Holly’s speech -with his accustomed felicity of expression, and afterwards took his -place, in a large hall, prepared for the exercises of the young men; -where, in the presence of the public, he was addressed in Latin, English -and French, by three of the pupils, whose compositions, as eloquently -written as well delivered, merited the plaudits of the auditors. He -replied to each of the young orators in a manner that proved that the -three languages they had used were equally familiar to him, and that his -heart was deeply moved by the expression of their youthful patriotism. -He was not less pleased with his visit to the academy of young ladies, -directed by Mrs. Dunham, and instituted under the name of the Lafayette -academy; one hundred and fifty pupils received him with the harmonious -sound of a patriotic song composed by Mrs. Holly, and accompanied on the -piano by Miss Hammond; several young ladies afterwards complimented him; -some in prose, and others in verse, of their own composition. The -discourse of Miss M’Intosh and the beautiful ode of Miss Nephew, -produced a great effect on the audience, and drew tears from eyes little -accustomed to such emotions. - -From so many and touching proofs of esteem and veneration for his -character, General Lafayette experienced feelings it was impossible for -him adequately to express. Surrounded and caressed by these tender and -innocent creatures, he abandoned himself to those sweet emotions, to -which, in spite of age, his heart has not become insensible; and he -could not avoid repeating how much he felt his happiness in having -combated during his youth, for a people whose descendants testified such -affection for him; and the profound knowledge, even the youngest of the -children appeared to possess of every action of his life, penetrated him -with the liveliest gratitude. At last, he tore himself from a scene of -emotion, too violent to be supported for any length of time, assuring -the directress of the academy, that he was proud of the honour of seeing -his name attached to an establishment so beneficial in its aim, and -happy in its results. - -In the midst of entertainments of all kinds, the description of which -would be impossible, General Lafayette did not forget what he owed to -the memory and former friendship of his old companions; having -ascertained that the widow of General Scott lived at Lexington, he went -to her house to pay his respects. This visit was highly gratifying, not -only to Mrs. Scott and her family, but also to all who had known General -Scott, whose noble character and patriotic conduct during the -revolutionary war will always be cited with pride by his -fellow-citizens. - -General Lafayette did not overlook another friendship, which, although -more recent, was not less sincere. After this visit he went a mile from -Lexington, to Ashland, the charming seat of Mr. Clay; the honourable -secretary of state was absent, but Mrs. Clay and her children performed -all the honours of the house with the most amiable cordiality. This step -of the general’s was very pleasing to the citizens of Lexington, which -was a proof to me, that the popularity of Mr. Clay, which rests on his -talents and services, has not been diminished among his fellow citizens -by the gross and perhaps unwarrantable attacks made on him by some party -journals at the time of the presidential election. - -After forty-eight hours of uninterrupted entertainments, we left -Lexington, where we parted with Governor Carrol and almost all our -companions from Tennessee, Louisiana, Frankfort, &c. and only -accompanied by a detachment of volunteer cavalry from Georgetown, we -turned suddenly to the left, and in thirty-six hours arrived at that -point in the Ohio, on which is situated the handsome city of Cincinnati, -in which General Lafayette was expected with the greatest impatience. -This journey, from Louisville to Cincinnati, gave us the advantage of -seeing the prodigies of art effected by liberty, in a country which -civilization has scarcely snatched from savage nature. - -In 1775, Kentucky was only known from the reports of some bold hunters, -who had dared to establish themselves among the ferocious tribes who -inhabited that country. Its name alone, formed of the Indian word -Kentucke, signifying river of blood, always recalled to the dismayed -whites the numerous murders committed on the first among them who had -attempted to enter it, and appeared as if it would deter them from ever -establishing themselves there; but the courage, activity, and -perseverance of a Carolinian, named BOON, succeeded, after many -unsuccessful attempts, in forming a settlement of sufficient size to -resist the reiterated attacks of the Indians. Soon after, the -revolutionary war, which gave liberty and independence to the English -colonies, having terminated, the activity of the inhabitants of the -northern states, urging them perpetually to new enterprises, the tide of -emigration flowed towards Kentucky, and in the year 1790, the population -of this country already amounted to near 74,000. Until this time -Kentucky had always been looked upon as a part of Virginia, but then, by -consent of that state, it was separated, and formed into a distinct -state, which was admitted into the Union in 1782; its population is now -560,000. The Indians, either destroyed, or driven back to distant parts, -by civilization, have left the field open to the industry of the whites; -in the place of the ancient forests that served them for an asylum, are -now found populous cities, abundant harvests, and active and prosperous -manufactures; finally, Kentucky, in spite of its ominous name, has -become a hospitable land, and is now one of the most brilliant stars in -the new constellation of the west. The courage displayed by the -inhabitants of Kentucky during the last war is well known, and in what -manner they expressed their patriotic sentiments in the presence of -Lafayette. Nevertheless, I will relate the following anecdote, which -proves how deeply the hatred of despotism is imparted in the breasts of -every class among these happy people. - -During a pleasant day of our journey, I ascended a steep hill on foot, -on the summit of which I stopped near an isolated cabin, in order to -wait for the carriages, which slowly followed me, and were still far in -the rear, for I had walked rapidly. A man, who was smoking his segar at -the door of the house, asked me to walk in and rest myself. I accepted, -with gratitude, this polite invitation. The difficulty with which I -expressed my thanks in English marked me for a stranger, and induced a -number of questions, as to the place whence I came, where I was going, -and the motives of my journey. As these questions appeared to be -dictated rather from a feeling of kindness, than from indiscreet -curiosity, I hastened to answer with all possible politeness. “Well!” -exclaimed my host in a joyful tone, “since you have the happiness of -living with Lafayette, you will not refuse to drink a glass of whiskey -with me to his health,” and segars and whiskey were immediately -presented to me, and we began to converse on what appeared most to -interest my Kentucky entertainer, the guest of the nation. After -exhausting this subject, he spoke of my country, and the extraordinary -man who had bestowed upon it fifteen years of glory and despotism. He -seemed enthusiastic on the military exploits of Napoleon, and deeply -afflicted at his unhappy end. “Why,” said he, “had he the folly to give -himself up, in his misfortunes, to his most cruel enemy, to the English -government, whose perfidy he had so often experienced? why did he not -rather seek an asylum on our hospitable shores? Here he would have found -admirers, and what is better, sincere friends, in the midst of whom, -freed from all inquietude, he might have peacefully enjoyed the -recollection of his great actions.” “I suspect,” answered I, “that you -know little of Napoleon’s character; his soul was not formed for the -mild enjoyments of peace; he constantly required new food for the -prodigious activity of his genius; and who knows, that if seduced by new -dreams of ambition, at the view of the resources of a new country, he -would not have attempted to substitute, as he did with us, his own will -for your wise institutions?” “We should have considered such an attempt -as an act of madness,” replied my host with a smile of disdain, “but if, -against all probabilities, we had submitted for a moment to his -tyrannous ascendency, his success would have been fatal to him. Look at -that rifle,” added he, pointing to one in a corner of the room, “with -that I never miss a pheasant in our woods at a hundred yards; a tyrant -is larger than a pheasant, and there is not a Kentuckian who is not as -patriotic and skilful as myself.” - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - Arrival at Cincinnati—Entertainments given by that city—Swiss of - Vevay—State of Ohio—The Vinton family—Journey from Wheeling to - Uniontown—Speech of Mr. Gallatin—New Geneva—Bradock’s - field—General Washington’s first feat of arms—Pittsburgh. - - -On the 19th of May, at 10 o’clock in the morning, we arrived on the left -bank of the Ohio. The first object that attracted my view on the side, -and almost opposite to us, was the handsome city of Cincinnati, -majestically covering a large amphitheatre, at the foot of which, the -river, upwards of half a mile in width, flows peaceably. Several boats, -carrying a deputation from the city of Cincinnati, and some officers of -the staff, had been waiting since morning for the arrival of General -Lafayette. We entered, with our fellow travellers from Frankfort, into -the handsomest of these boats, and rapidly crossed the river. We landed -under a salute of thirteen guns, and cries of “Welcome, Lafayette,” -repeated by thousands of voices in honour of the guest of America. In -presence of the people assembled on the banks of the river, and of -several regiments of militia formed in line, Governor Morrow received -him in the name of the state, and having placed him by his side in a -calash, conducted him to the hotel in the midst of enthusiastic -testimonies which it would be impossible to describe. - -It was General Harrison, whose name is so gloriously associated with the -principal events of the last war, who received General Lafayette at his -quarters, and addressed him in the name of the state of Ohio. In a -discourse, filled with sentiments of tenderness and gratitude towards -Lafayette, General Harrison drew a picture of the prodigious increase -and prosperity, of which the state of Ohio and city of Cincinnati -offered a most admirable example. - -When the address was concluded, the crowd, which filled the apartments, -pressed with ardour around General Lafayette, each anxious to be -personally introduced to him. Many revolutionary soldiers were present, -who were not the least zealous in claiming the right to shake hands with -their ancient comrade. There was also a citizen of Cincinnati, whose -name and aspect excited the most tender emotions in the general’s heart. -This was Mr. Morgan Neville, son of Major Neville, his former -aide-de-camp and friend, and maternal grandson of the celebrated Morgan, -who, by his talents and bravery, at the head of his corps of partizans, -during the war of independence, gained great reputation. After some -moments devoted to official introductions, and reciprocal felicitations, -the general returned his thanks to General Harrison, and we proceeded -with a numerous train of free masons to the masonic hall, where many -lodges had met to receive the nation’s guest, and offer fraternal -congratulations upon his arrival in the state of Ohio. - -A public dinner and display of fire-works from the highest part of the -town, terminated the day, which was only the prelude to entertainments -on the morrow, more splendid than had ever before been witnessed in -Ohio. - -The first honours which the general received at sunrise, were from the -boys and girls belonging to the public schools. Assembled to the number -of six hundred, under the superintendance of their teachers, these -children were ranged in the principal street, where they made the air -echo with _Welcome, Lafayette_. When the general appeared before them, -their young hands scattered flowers under his feet, and Dr. Ruter -advancing, delivered him an address in their name, the sentiments of -which sensibly affected the general, who wished to express his -acknowledgements to the doctor, but, at the moment, was surrounded by -the children, who in a most lively manner stretched out their little -hands to him, and filled the air with their cries of joy. He received -their caresses and embraces with the tenderness of a parent who returns -to his family after a long absence, and then replied to Dr. Ruter’s -address. - -Whilst this ceremony was going on, the militia were called to arms, and -at eleven o’clock appeared, formed in line of battle, upon the public -square. In front appeared the fine companies commanded by Captains -Harrison, Emerson, and Avery. The general passed them in review. -Immediately afterwards came the mechanics, forming a long procession, in -the midst of which floated the flags representing their various trades. -The barge in which Lafayette had the preceding evening crossed the Ohio, -followed, mounted upon four wheels, with its oars trimmed and flag -floating in the air. A detachment of revolutionary soldiers marched -around her. We were desired to place ourselves in the middle of this -procession, with which we made various turns through the town on our way -to a large square near the court-house. There the general mounted an -elegant platform, decorated with verdure. The people pressed around him, -and the harmony of a fine band of music having gained the attention of -the multitude, Mr. Lee sung, to the air of the Marseillaise, a martial -ode, of which the last words of each stanza were enthusiastically -repeated by the spectators. A discourse upon the solemnity of the day, -succeeded these patriotic songs. The orator who was to pronounce it -arose, advanced towards the expecting multitude, before whom he remained -some moments silent, his countenance depressed, his hand placed upon his -breast, as if overcome by the greatness of the subject he was to treat. -At length his sonorous voice, although slightly tremulous, was heard, -and the whole assembly soon became fascinated by his eloquence. The -benefits and advantages of freedom, the generous efforts made for its -establishment in the two hemispheres by Lafayette, the picture of the -present and future prosperity of the United States, furnished the topics -of Mr. Benham’s address. He took such possession of the imagination of -his auditors, that even after he had ceased speaking, the attentive -crowd remained some time silent as though they still heard his voice. - -Popular eloquence is one of the distinctive characteristics of the -Americans of the United States. The faculty of speaking well in public -is acquired by all the citizens from the universality and excellence of -their education, and is developed in a higher degree by the nature of -their institutions, which call upon each citizen for the exercise of -that power in the discussion of public affairs. In each town, in every -village, the number of persons capable of speaking before a numerous -assembly, is truly surprising; and it is not uncommon to meet among them -men, who, although born in obscurity, have justly acquired great -reputation for eloquence. At the head of such speakers, we may mention -the names of Messrs. Clay and Webster, whose parents were, I think, -farmers, and who, at the present day, might appear with advantage in -comparison with our most distinguished European orators. - -After the address of Mr. Benham, the people dispersed, and the -ceremonies were suspended until the hour for the public dinner, to allow -the general some repose. We had hardly returned to Mr. Febiger’s, in -whose hospitable house we lodged, when we saw thirty or forty persons -arrive, who entered the drawing room, and requested permission to speak -to Lafayette. “We are citizens of Vevay,” said an old man at their head, -who spoke to me in French, and for whom all the rest seemed to possess -great deference. “We were induced to hope that the friend of America and -of liberty, would come and visit our little town, and that we should -have the pleasure of showing him our vineyards, and inducing him to -taste the wines of our vintage; but his passage through Kentucky -deprived us of this happiness. Nevertheless, we could not miss seeing -the man whose name was dear to us even before we left our country, and -we resolved upon coming here to salute him.” - -I communicated this to the general, who, being unable to come down at -the moment, sent his son to request the visiters to wait for him a short -time. They received Mr. George Lafayette with great tenderness, and -after having repeated to him nearly what they had said to me, they -informed us that they were all Swiss, for the most part from the canton -of Vaud; that the persecutions of the local authorities, the desire of -ameliorating their condition, and love of liberty, had determined them -to leave their country and come to settle in the New World; that they -had founded in the state of Indiana, on the banks of the Ohio, about one -hundred and fifty miles from Cincinnati, a town to which they had given -the name of Vevay; and that about one hundred and fifty-six families -lived there, principally by the produce of their vines, the culture of -which they had succeeded in introducing into this portion of the United -States. Whilst we were listening to these details, the general arrived, -and immediately the Swiss of Vevay having formed a semicircle to receive -him, the most aged among them, whom I had heard called Father Dufour, -advanced and welcomed him by an address full of feeling. When he had -finished speaking, all these inhabitants of Vevay threw themselves into -the arms of the general and tenderly embraced him. They had brought with -them some wine of their vintage, which they presented us, and we joined -them in drinking to the prosperity of their new and the regeneration of -their old country. - -It must be confessed that the wine of Vevay is by no means exquisite. -Nevertheless, it is quite a pleasant drink, and, according to my taste, -the best of the wines made in the United States.[15] Although the vine -grows naturally in the forests of North America, it nevertheless submits -to cultivation with difficulty, and, to the present time, it is only by -the greatest care that it can be rendered productive. The sudden changes -of temperature cause it to be affected with diseases which show -themselves by the appearance of numerous little black spots on the -leaves; and the cold nights of autumn often prevent the fruit from -arriving at perfect maturity. The vine-dressers of Vevay have however -succeeded tolerably well in acclimating some of the plants of Europe, -which promise an abundant produce. On our way to the dinner, as we -crossed the public square, we saw the gunners stationed at their park of -artillery. Their elegant and martial uniform, was that of the French -artillery. We were informed that this was the Vevay Artillery Company. -It was, in fact, composed almost entirely of Swiss, among whom a great -number had served in the artillery of the French army. Their manœuvres -appeared to be executed with a precision and rapidity altogether -remarkable. - -In the ball which succeeded the banquet, the citizens of Cincinnati -displayed the good taste and elegance which characterize a rich city, -fruitful in resources and long polished by civilization. But that which -charmed the general most, was the delicate attentions offered him on all -sides. More than five hundred persons animated this patriotic party, at -which Messrs. Morrow, governor of Ohio; Desha, governor of Kentucky; -Duval, governor of Florida; Scott, major-general of the United States -army; with many other personages of distinguished rank and character, -were present. - -At midnight, at a signal given by the Vevay artillery, we took our leave -of the citizens of Cincinnati, and embarked in the Herald to continue -our journey. The general could hardly force himself away from the circle -of his friends, nor could he cease from expressing his admiration at the -prosperity of Cincinnati, and the state of Ohio, which he denominated -the eighth wonder of the world. One cannot, in fact, avoid being struck -with astonishment at the sight of such prodigious creations of liberty -and industry, of which this state offers so many examples. The simple -progress of its population borders on the marvellous. In 1790, there -were in it only 3,000, whilst at present there are nearly 800,000. In -1820, the town of Cincinnati contained only 9,642 inhabitants, now it -has 18,000. Ohio is both an agricultural and manufacturing state. Its -fertile soil produces abundance of grain and a variety of fruits. In the -southern part they raise a little cotton, whilst the northern section is -celebrated for its rich pasturage. Agriculture is said to occupy 112,000 -individuals, while only about 19,000 are annually engaged in -manufacturing. Last year the manufactures of wool, cotton, and thread; -of leather, iron, nails, and maple sugar, amounted to nearly two -millions of dollars. All these products, along with those of -agriculture, have a prospect of increasing considerably every year, and -the excess over the internal consumption always finds an easy market, -the state of Ohio being admirably situated as to facilities of -exportation. For more than four hundred miles, the beautiful river which -waters its south and south-east limits is navigable for large vessels. -Its northern frontiers are for seventy-five miles washed by the waters -of Lake Erie, and a canal running across the whole state joins these two -points, so that Ohio stands upon the great line of internal navigation -which connects New York with New Orleans, passing beyond the Alleghany -mountains. - -To all these natural sources of prosperity, Ohio unites another -advantage, which she owes to the happy construction of her constitution; -namely, the abolition of slavery and involuntary servitude. A slave -becomes free as soon as he touches the happy soil of Ohio; and if he -does not enjoy the right of suffrage, and some other political -privileges, he ought not to ascribe it to the partiality of legislators, -but to the melancholy state of ignorance in which his unfortunate race -still exist. - -It was on the 22d of May at midnight, when we embarked on board the -Herald, which was to carry us to Wheeling, a small town in Virginia, -situated on the banks of the Ohio, almost on the frontiers of -Pennsylvania. Although we had to run more than three hundred miles, we -nevertheless landed there on the 24th before night. It is true, that, -during our passage, we did not stop except to take in the necessary -supplies of wood, and visit some establishments which we found on the -banks of the river, such as Portsmouth, Galliopolis, Marietta, &c. -which, for the most part, were founded by the French, but the population -is now altogether American, at least with very few exceptions. It was in -one of these small towns, Galliopolis, I believe, that we visited the -family of Mr. Vinton, one of the Ohio representatives to congress, who -was of the small minority that voted against the national recompense -given to Lafayette. Mr. Vinton had not yet returned from Washington -city, but his family received the general in his behalf, with every mark -of tenderness and veneration; and Mrs. Vinton did not leave him until he -returned on board the Herald, whither she wished to accompany him on -foot with all her relatives. This civility in the Vinton family, -sensibly touched the heart of the general, and afforded him a proof, -that the members of the small opposition who had voted against the -proposition of the 20th of December, were not the less his sincere -friends; and that, if they had hazarded their popularity among their -constituents in such a case, it was, as I have before said, only from -motives of public order, and a steady resolution to oppose every -extraordinary measure of finance. - -From Wheeling we again entered the state of Pennsylvania, by Washington, -Brownsville, Uniontown, &c. In all this route, the general found the -Virginia and Pennsylvania population in the same dispositions as in the -preceding year; that is to say, the people every where crowding his way, -and conferring upon him the greatest honours. The little town of -Washington, the seat of justice for the county of the same name, -distinguished itself by the brilliancy of its festivals. At Brownsville -we crossed the Monongahela in a batteau, bearing twenty-four young girls -dressed in white, who came to receive the general, and who crowned him -with flowers the moment he came within the limits of the town. At -Uniontown, the seat of justice for the county of Lafayette, he was -received with a simplicity and cordiality calculated to recall the -character of the founders of Pennsylvania. For the purpose of addressing -their national guest, the inhabitants of Uniontown employed, as their -organ of communication, one of his oldest and best friends, Mr. -Gallatin, known in Europe from his diplomatic labours, and whom the -American leaders have always reckoned among the number of their most -able defenders. - -Placed upon a stage raised in the centre of the town, Mr. Gallatin -received General Lafayette, and addressed him in the name of the -surrounding people, who listened in silence. - -Mr. Gallatin is not of the number, unfortunately too great, of those -foreigners, who, from ignorance or envy, incessantly confound the cause -of legitimacy, and the happy results of the French revolution, with the -horrible and sanguinary excesses afterwards perpetrated by those -wretches, who were only the instruments of the servile partizans of -privilege, and who, for the purpose of checking liberty in its noble -career, thought to bring it into disrepute by the crimes committed in -its name. The justice Mr. Gallatin rendered to the courage and wisdom of -the French patriots of 1789, deeply affected General Lafayette, who -expressed to him his gratitude, in a reply distinguished by its -eloquence and the elevation of its sentiments. - -After twenty-four hours passed, I will not say amidst entertainments, -but rather in the reception of the most tender and affectionate -testimonials of attachment from the inhabitants of Uniontown, the -general accepted the invitation of Mr. Gallatin, to repose himself a -short time in the bosom of his family; and we accordingly set out with -him for New Geneva, a charming residence, situated on the high and rocky -banks of the Monongahela, at some miles distance from Uniontown. A -detachment of militia from the county of Lafayette, in whose ranks was a -son of Mr. Gallatin, escorted us; and through the whole route we met -groups of the inhabitants, who, in their joyous acclamations, blended -the name of Lafayette with that of Gallatin, to which were associated -the remembrance of innumerable services rendered to this part of -Pennsylvania. We found at New Geneva all that could contribute to the -pleasure of a visit. To the advantages of a situation happily chosen, -are added the charms of an amiable and intelligent society. But the -general was very far from finding there the solitude which his friend -had promised him. During twenty-four hours which we remained at this -delightful place, the doors remained open, to give free access to the -good people of the neighbourhood, who came in crowds to salute their -well beloved guest. - -On the 28th of May Mr. Gallatin reconducted us to Uniontown, when we -took leave of him to go to Elizabethtown, a little village situated on -the banks of the Monongahela. We arrived there about twelve o’clock; -when a boat, propelled by four oars, received us on board, and we -descended the river to the famous Braddock’s Field, which we reached -some time after sunset. We were favoured with delightful weather during -our sail, which was rendered highly interesting by the conversation of -our companions, the members of the committee from Uniontown. We surveyed -the shores, which in times past echoed with the cries of victory from -the adventurous sons of France, and which were also the witnesses of -disasters which the faults of a government as presumptuous as imbecile -drew upon them. The recital of the events of that period, chained our -attention until the moment of our landing. It was nine o’clock when we -arrived at Braddock’s field, where the English troops, under the command -of a general of that name, were completely defeated in the month of -July, 1755, by the French and Indians united. The principal -circumstances of that memorable event are too familiar to all those -whose attention has been directed to American history, for me to relate -them here. I will content myself by only repeating, that, it was on that -day, so fatal to British arms, that the man who has since established -the glory and independence of his country, gave the first proofs of his -military talents, and calm intrepidity in battle. If General Braddock -had not scorned the advice of his young aide-de-camp, Washington, he -would not have fought upon ground where every thing was in favour of the -enemy, and thus have sacrificed his army, his fame, and his life. -Although his advice was rejected, the young Washington did not fight the -less heroically; and it was owing to his courage and coolness that the -wreck of the conquered army was saved. - -Upon the field of battle, where, even at this day, the plough could not -trace a furrow without turning up bones whitened by time, and fragments -of arms corroded by rust, is situated the large and elegant mansion of -Mr. Wallace, by whom we, as well as our companions, were received with -the most touching and amiable hospitality. We there found already -assembled a numerous deputation sent by the city of Pittsburg, to meet -the general, and the next morning at daylight, detachments of volunteer -cavalry arrived to serve as an escort on our route to that city. - -The road which led from Braddock’s field to Pittsburg, although many -miles long, was soon covered by a considerable crowd, in the midst of -which the cavalcade advanced slowly towards the city. On the road we -visited the United States arsenal, which was about half way. The -discharge of twenty-four guns announced the entrance of General -Lafayette into that establishment, when Major Churchill, and the -officers under his command, invited him to breakfast. After having -examined the armoury and workshops, in which we remarked great -regularity, order, and activity, we continued our route towards -Pittsburg, where the general was received, on his entrance into the -city, by the magistrates, at the head of the people, and the militia in -order of battle. - -I have had to describe so many triumphal entries into great and rich -cities, whilst narrating General Lafayette’s incomparable journey -through the twenty-four states of the American Union, that, to avoid -repetition, I am obliged to pass over in silence a great number of -receptions whose principal features were alike. It is for this reason I -omit the account of his reception at the national hotel at Pittsburg; -although that city yielded to no other in the United States in the -splendour of her festivals, and in the expression of her sentiments of -patriotic gratitude. But I have yet before me so long a route to survey, -and so many things to relate, that I am forced to imitate Lafayette, who -was obliged to shorten the delicious moments that friendship had every -where prepared for him on his journey, that he might be present at the -celebration at Bunker’s Hill. I will not, however, quit Pittsburg -without paying my tribute of admiration to the eloquence of Mr. Shaler, -who addressed the general in the name of the citizens, and that of Mr. -Gazzam, charged with the presentation of the children of the public -schools. These two orators, so remarkable for elevation of thought, and -elegance of expression, obtained the approbation of their auditors, and -excited in the heart of him whom they addressed the most profound -sentiments of gratitude. - -Among the persons or corporations officially presented to General -Lafayette, was a group of old men, who, by their enthusiasm in speaking -of old times, were easily recognized for soldiers of 1776. One of them -addressing his old general, asked him if he still remembered the young -soldier who first offered to carry him on a litter, when he was wounded -at the battle of Brandywine? Lafayette, after having attentively -surveyed him, threw himself into his arms, crying, “No, I have not -forgotten Wilson, and it is a great happiness to be permitted to embrace -him to-day!” Wilson himself, who asked the question, was much affected, -and the incident penetrated the spectators in the most touching manner. - -General Lafayette recognized one of his old companions in arms during -the revolution, in the person of the Reverend Joseph Patterson, who came -to visit him with the ministers of different denominations in the city -and neighbouring counties. Joseph Patterson, although a clergyman, had -shouldered his musket, and fought for the independence of his country -through two terrible campaigns of the revolution, and had assisted at -the battle of Germantown. - -After having devoted the day of his arrival at Pittsburg to public -ceremonies, the general wished to employ a part of the next day in -visiting some of the ingenious establishments which constitute the glory -and prosperity of that manufacturing city, which, for the variety and -excellence of its products, deserves to be compared to our -Saint-Etienne, or to Manchester in England. He was struck by the -excellence and perfection of the processes employed in the various -workshops which he examined; but that which interested him above all was -the manufacture of glass, some patterns of which were presented to him, -that, for their clearness and transparency, might have been admired even -by the side of the glass of Baccarat. - -Pittsburg is situated on the point where the rivers Alleghany and -Monongahela mingle their waters, forming the majestic river Ohio, which, -flowing towards the western and southern states, and even to the -Atlantic, afford an easy outlet for the products of its industry. These, -with the population, increase each year with wonderful rapidity. -Pittsburg now contains eight thousand inhabitants, and a great many -workmen, strangers, who are drawn hither by the prosperity of the -manufactories, coming every year to communicate to them secret processes -and improvements, brought to light by the activity of the European -manufacturers. - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Route from Pittsburg to Erie—Commodore Perry’s Victory—Night Scene at - Fredonia—The Indian Chief at Buffalo—Falls of Niagara—Visit to - Fort Niagara—Appearance of Lockport—Passage from Lockport to - Rochester—Aqueduct over the Genessee River—Route by land from - Rochester to Syracuse—Passage from Syracuse to Schenectady, Rome, - and Utica—Grand Canal. - - -On leaving Pittsburg, the general was obliged to part from his old -friends of the state of Ohio, represented by Governor Morrow, who had -accompanied him with his staff. Conducted by a committee of the city of -Pittsburg, and escorted by a company of militia, we took the route by -way of Franklin, Meadville, Waterford, and Erie, to gain the shores of -the great lake which bears this name. All this western portion of -Pennsylvania, watered by French Creek, is remarkable for the beauty and -variety of its scenery. In each of the villages through which we passed, -the general was detained several hours in receiving the honours which -had been prepared for him by the citizens and public officers. - -The trophies suspended over our heads, the name of Perry and the view of -lake Erie, necessarily directed the thoughts of the guests to the events -of the last war; and in a short time the gallant deeds of the American -navy became the subject of general conversation. As it was perceived -that Lafayette took great pleasure in hearing a narration of the glory -of the descendants of his former companions in arms, all the details of -that memorable day were given him, in which, after a combat of three -hours, an American squadron entirely captured a British fleet far -superior in the number of guns. - -In hearing the recital of those noble actions, Lafayette cast his eyes -alternately on the numerous English flags that floated over his head, on -the lake, the theatre of such glorious events, and on the seamen who -surrounded him; and his heart was filled with pride, on perceiving that -the Americans of 1813 had shown themselves worthy sons of his old fellow -soldiers, the immortal heroes of the revolution of 1776. - -On leaving the table, the general took leave of the inhabitants of Erie, -and departed from this town at three o’clock in the afternoon, with the -committee of Chatauque county, who had come to announce to him that a -steam-boat was waiting at Dunkirk to take him to Buffalo. Before sunset, -we left the territory of Pennsylvania and entered on that of New York. -As we had fifty miles to accomplish, and as the general did not wish to -detain the vessel too long, we travelled until daybreak without -stopping. In this rapid journey, we passed through many large villages, -the population of which, assembled in the public places around large -fires, waited patiently for the arrival of the national guest to salute -him with patriotic acclamations. These nocturnal scenes have left a -strong impression on my mind. I shall never forget the magical effect -that was produced at Fredonia. On leaving Portland, yielding to the -fatigue of the preceding days, we were sleeping in the carriage -notwithstanding the violent jolting occasioned by the trunks of the -trees forming the road over which we were rapidly passing; on a sudden -the startling explosion of a piece of artillery awoke us, and our eyes -were immediately dazzled by the glare of a thousand lights, suspended to -the houses and trees that surrounded us. We were solicited to alight, -and we found ourselves in the middle of an avenue, formed on one side by -men and boys, and on the other by young girls and women holding their -infants in their arms. At the sight of Lafayette, the air resounded with -joyful cries, all arms were stretched out towards him, the mothers -presented their infants to him and begged his benediction on them, and -warlike music uniting its sound to the din of artillery and bells -gladdened all hearts. Struck by so touching a reception, the general was -unable for some time to subdue his emotions; at last, he advanced slowly -through the crowd, at every step shaking affectionately the hands that -were stretched out to him, and replying with tenderness to the sweet -salutation of the children who accompanied his progress with cries of -“_Welcome, Lafayette_.” - -On a stage built in the centre of a large place, lighted by barrels of -burning rosin, an orator was waiting to address him in the name of the -people of Fredonia, who afterwards defiled before him in order to salute -him once more. Notwithstanding the striking character of this scene, the -general felt himself obliged to abridge it, that he might not expose to -the cold, for a longer time, the women and young girls, who, slightly -clad, had passed all the night in the open air, waiting for him. It was -three o’clock in the morning, when, after having partaken of a -collation, we left Fredonia. The sun already began to gild the summits -of the forests we left to the right, when we arrived at Dunkirk, a small -port on Lake Erie, when the boat that was to convey us to Buffalo, was -waiting for us. A committee from that town, and a great number of -ladies, had come to meet the general, and received him on board to the -sound of music, the delightful harmony of which accorded deliciously -with the beauty of the morning, and the romantic aspect of the bay in -which we were. - -At twelve o’clock we were within sight of the shores of Buffalo; but -retarded in our progress by violent and contrary wind, we were unable to -enter the port for two hours. Although the town of Buffalo was almost -entirely destroyed by the English, who burnt it during the last war, we -were nevertheless struck with its air of prosperity, and the bustle in -its port. We landed near one of the extremities of that grand canal, -whose other extremity we had visited five hundred miles from this, near -Albany, and which serves as a link between Lake Erie and the Atlantic. -After the first ceremonies of the reception of the national guest by the -magistrates and citizens of Buffalo, we went to snatch a few moments of -repose at the Eagle tavern, where our lodgings had been prepared. There, -the general received a great number of persons who desired to be -particularly presented to him; among them we had the pleasure of seeing -an old Indian chief of the Senecas, who had acquired a great reputation -for courage and eloquence, not only among his own people, but also among -the whites, who call him Red Jacket. This extraordinary man, although -much broken by time and intemperance, still preserved, to a surprising -degree, the exercise of all his faculties; he immediately recognised -General Lafayette, and recalled to his recollection that they had been -together in 1784 at Fort Schuyler, where a great council had been held, -in which the interests of all the Indian nations, whether friendly or -otherwise, who could have any relation to the United States, were -settled. The general replied to him that he had not forgotten this -circumstance, and demanded of him if he knew what had become of the -young Indian who had so eloquently opposed “the burying of the -tomahawk.” “He is before you,” replied the son of the forest, with all -the brevity of his expressive language. “Time has much changed us,” said -the general to him, “for then we were young and active.” “Ah,” exclaimed -Red Jacket, “time has been less severe on you than on me; he has left -you a fresh countenance, and a head well covered with hair; whilst as -for me—look!” and untying the handkerchief that covered his head, he -showed us, with a melancholy air, that his head was entirely bald. The -bystanders could not help smiling at the simplicity of the Indian, who -appeared to be ignorant of the means of repairing the injuries of time; -but were cautious not to explain his error; and perhaps did right, for -he might have confounded a wig with a scalp, and wished to have -regarnished his head at the expense of that of one of his neighbours. -Like all the Indians, who have preserved their primitive haughtiness, -Red Jacket obstinately adheres to his native language, and entertains a -great contempt for all others. Although it was easy to see that he -understood English perfectly, he nevertheless refused to reply to the -questions of General Lafayette, before they were translated into Seneca -by his interpreter. The general, having remembered a few Indian words -which he had learned during his youth, pronounced them before him; he -appeared sensible of this politeness, which singularly augmented the -high opinion he already entertained of Lafayette. - -The Seneca tribe is one of the six nations known formerly by the name of -Iroquois, and now inhabiting the northern part of the state of New York, -under the protection of the government of that state. These six nations -are the Tuscaroras, Onondagas, Oneidas, Cayugas, Mohawks, and Senecas. I -wished much to have visited a large village inhabited by the latter, a -short distance from Buffalo, but the little time we spent at that place, -was so completely and agreeably taken up by entertainments prepared by -the inhabitants for their guest, that it was impossible for me to spare -the time. - -We passed the night at Buffalo, and the next day, at an early hour, we -set out in a carriage for the Falls of Niagara: on our way we -breakfasted with the family of General Porter, at Black Rock, a small -but handsome port which rivals that of Buffalo in bustle; and a few -hours afterwards, a hollow rambling which seemed to shake the earth, and -a thick column of vapour which we saw at a distance rising towards the -clouds, announced to us, that we were about to enjoy the sight of one of -the greatest wonders of nature. - -At two o’clock we arrived with our fellow passengers from Buffalo and -Black Rock at Manchester, a small village situated on the right bank of -the Niagara, near the falls, where the general was received and -complimented by a large deputation from the county of Niagara. Full of -an impatience that may readily be conceived, we abridged as much as -possible, the duration of a public dinner, of which we were obliged to -partake on arriving, and at half past three we went over to the island -that divides the Niagara into two unequal parts, at the point where the -waters form the cataracts and precipitate themselves in a gulf of 150 -feet in depth. The sight of the bridge which leads to this island, -called Goat Island, admirably prepares the mind for the contemplation of -the imposing scene that presents itself, and gives a nigh idea of the -boldness and skill of those who constructed it. Built on a bed of rocks, -whose numerous points are elevated above the water, and by opposing the -current only increase its violence, its wooden pillars are agitated by a -continued vibration, which seems to announce that the moment approaches -when it will give way and be precipitated in the abyss; some minutes -after having passed the bridge we found ourselves in presence of the -great fall. It is a sublime spectacle, but it must not be expected I -should attempt to describe the sensations that I experienced at the -sight of the gigantic phenomena; they were of a nature that cannot be -expressed: I therefore willingly relinquish the trial, in which, in my -opinion, the most skilful writers have greatly failed. We remained near -half an hour on the edge of the gulf, silently contemplating the rapid -fall of the water, and almost stunned by the noise of its terrible -roaring. We should, in all probability, have remained plunged in a -reverie much longer, had we not been roused by the voice of one of our -companions, doubtless more familiar than us with this fearful sport of -nature, anxious to give us some details, interesting perhaps, but which -we certainly should never have demanded. - -Mr. A. Porter, the brother of General Porter, with whom we had -breakfasted at Black Rock, is the owner of Goat Island; he had the -kindness to conduct the general to all the most picturesque points of -this singular property, which is, as it were, suspended above the abyss. -From the upper extremity of the island, we saw a spectacle less terrible -than from the lower point, but which is nevertheless not without -majesty. Our view, extending to a great distance, agreeably reposed on -the beautiful river Niagara, which rolls its waters as smooth as a -mirror, over a large bed unincumbered with obstacles, and between low -and fertile banks: it is only in approaching the superior point of the -island, that the rapidity of the course is accelerated and it prepares -for the terrible fall, whose noise, during the stillness of the night, -is heard, it is said, for more than twenty miles around. Woe to the -animal or man that has the imprudence to enter this irresistible -current, no human power can save him from the insatiable avidity of the -gulf. It is only a few years since a young Indian furnished a lamentable -example. He was sleeping in the bottom of his canoe which he had -fastened to the shore near the small town of Chippewa, when a young girl -who had replied to his love, but whom he had deserted for another, -passed and saw him. At the sight of him the furies of jealousy kindled -in her bosom the desire for revenge. She approached, unfastened the -canoe, and gently pushed it from the shore, the current soon acted on -it, and carried it down the stream with great rapidity. The noise of the -waves soon woke the young Indian, who, on opening his eyes, saw the -imminent danger to which he was exposed; his first movement, inspired by -a desire of preservation, was to seize his paddle to strive against the -current; but he soon perceived the inutility of his efforts, which were -derided by his wicked mistress by cries of cruel joy: then having -nothing to oppose to his fate but a courageous resignation, he enveloped -himself in his blanket, seated himself in the middle of the canoe, and -coolly fixed his looks on the gates of eternity soon to be opened to -him, and in a few seconds disappeared in the profound abyss. - -The name of Chippewa, pronounced in the recital of the fate of the young -Indian, awoke our recollection of the glorious deeds of the American -troops, during the last war, on the frontiers of Canada, from which we -were only separated at this time by an arm of the Niagara. With this -recollection were naturally mingled the names of Brown, Van Ransellaer, -Ripley, Scott, Porter, Harrison, Pike, Jessup, Miller, and many others -who rendered themselves illustrious in these spots, by their talents, -their courage, and their ardent love of country. - -After two hours of delightful excursion, we left Goat Island, and cast a -farewell look on it from the bridge which unites it to the main land. -From this it appeared to us like a garden in the air, supported by the -clouds, and surrounded by thunder. The general could not tear himself -from this imposing scene, and I believe that when he learnt that Goat -Island and its charming dependencies were for sale for 1000 dollars, he -strongly regretted that the distance from France would not permit him to -purchase it. It would be, in fact, a delicious habitation; the surface -of the soil, of about seventy-five acres, is covered with a vigorous -vegetation, whose verdure constantly kept up by the freshness of the -pure and light vapour that arises from the cataract, presents an -agreeable shelter from the heat of summer. The current of water which -surrounds it offers an incalculable power which may be applied to mills -of all kinds. I do not think that Mr. Porter will wait long before he -disposes of a property which offers so many advantages. - -On leaving Manchester and the Falls of Niagara, we went to Lewistown to -sleep: this is a pretty village situated a few miles below the falls; -and the next day, at five o’clock in the morning, we rode to Fort -Niagara, where General Lafayette had been invited to breakfast by Major -Thomson, the commandant of the garrison. We found the major at the head -of his officers, a short distance in advance of the fort, waiting to -receive the general, who was saluted by twenty-four guns as soon as he -entered the works. Some ladies, wives of the officers of the garrison, -assisted their husbands in doing the honours of the entertainment, and -contributed not a little by their politeness, in making the time we -passed at Niagara appear very short. - -This fort is built precisely at the point where the river enters into -Lake Ontario, on which Commodore Chauncey reaped laurels, like those -gathered by Perry on Lake Erie. Almost opposite, on the other bank, is -fort George, occupied by the English. Hostilities were frequent between -these two posts in the campaigns of 1813 and 1814, but the -fortifications of both have since been repaired, and it would now be -difficult to trace the ravages of war. - -The general shortened his visit to Fort Niagara, in order to arrive -early at Lockport, where we were to embark on the grand canal, to -descend to Albany. On a height near Lockport we met a troop of from -seventy to eighty citizens on horseback, and under this escort entered -the village, where the general was saluted by an extraordinary kind of -artillery. Hundreds of small blasts, charged with powder by the workmen -engaged in quarrying the bed of the rock to form the canal, exploded -almost at the same moment, and hurled fragments of rock into the air, -which fell amidst the acclamations of the crowd. The appearance of -Lockport filled us with astonishment and admiration. No where have I -ever seen the activity and industry of man conquering nature so -completely as in this growing village. In every part may be heard the -sound of the hatchet and hammer. Here, trees are felled, fashioned under -the hands of the carpenter, and raised on the same spot in the form of a -house; there, on a large public square, which exists as yet only in -project, an immense hotel already opens its doors to new settlers, who -have not any other habitation. Scarcely is there to be found in the -whole town a sufficiency of the necessaries of life, and yet, by the -side of a school, in which the children are instructed whilst their -fathers are building the houses that are to shelter them, is to be seen -a printing press, which every morning issues a journal, teaching the -labourers, in their hours of repose, how the magistrates of the people -fulfil the confidence reposed in them. In streets traced through the -forest, and yet encumbered with trunks of trees and scattered branches, -luxury already appears in the light wagons drawn by splendid horses; -finally, in the midst of these encroachments of civilization on savage -nature, there is going on, with a rapidity that appears miraculous, that -gigantic work, that grand canal, which, in tightening the bonds of the -American Union, spreads comfort and abundance in the wilds through which -it passes. - -Our carriages stopped opposite to an arch of green branches, and General -Lafayette was conducted to a platform, where he had the satisfaction of -being welcomed by one of his old fellow soldiers, the venerable Stephen -Van Rensellaer, now president of the board of canal commissioners. After -having been officially presented to the deputation from Monroe county, -as well as to a great number of citizens, we sat down to a public -dinner, presided over by Colonel Asher Saxton, at the end of which the -general, induced by the feelings awakened in him by the sight of so many -wonders, gave the following toast: “To Lockport and the county of -Niagara—they contain the greatest wonders of art and nature, prodigies -only to be surpassed by those of liberty and equal rights.” - -The free masons of Lockport, not wishing to permit the general to depart -without rendering him the honours due to his high masonic rank, begged -him to keep in remembrance of their lodge, the rich ornaments with which -he had been adorned when he entered the temple. They afterwards -accompanied us to the basin, where the boat was waiting to convey us to -Rochester. Before we embarked, we had great pleasure in viewing the -handsome locks, cut out of the solid rock, to the depth of twenty-five -feet. The moment the general stepped on board the barge, a multitude of -small blasts, dug in the rock, exploded above our heads, and their -deafening detonations added to the solemnity of the farewells of the -citizens of Lockport. Before leaving the basin, we received from Dr. —— -a box containing specimens of the different species of rocks through -which the canal passed; we accepted this interesting collection with -gratitude. Although navigation by steam is not applicable to a canal, -whose banks are not of stone, yet, as the horses and the tow-path were, -excellent, we travelled rapidly and comfortably; for the boat (the -Rochester) that carried us, was much more convenient and better provided -with the comforts of life than could have been supposed. - -We left Lockport at 7 o’clock in the evening, and traversed during the -night the sixty-five miles that separate that village from Rochester, -where we arrived at an early hour in the morning. We had not yet quitted -our cabin, when suddenly the name of Lafayette, pronounced amidst -violent acclamations, induced the general to ascend on deck; we followed -him, and what was our astonishment and admiration at the scene that -presented itself! We were apparently suspended in the air, in the centre -of an immense crowd which lined both sides of the canal; several -cataracts fell rumbling around us, the river Genessee rolled below our -feet at a distance of fifty feet; we were some moments without -comprehending our situation, which appeared the effect of magic: at last -we found, that the part of the canal on which we were, was carried with -an inconceivable boldness across the Genessee river, by means of an -aqueduct of upwards of four hundred yards in length, supported by arches -of hewn stone. Our fellow passengers, witnesses of our astonishment, -informed us that, in its long course, the canal passed several times, in -a similar manner, over wide and deep rivers; that above Irondiguot, for -example, it pursued an aerial route for more than a quarter of a mile, -at an elevation of 70 feet. This kind of construction appears familiar -to the Americans. The bridges are usually of an elegance and boldness of -execution that is inconceivable. Not far from Rochester may be seen the -ruins of a bridge that had been thrown over the river Genessee in a -single arch of 320 feet span, and 180 feet elevation above the water; it -gave way a few years since whilst two children were crossing it. It was -said to have been a masterpiece of art, but the want of size and -strength in the timbers prevented its lasting long. - -The general left the canal at Rochester, passed a few hours with the -inhabitants of that town, who gave him a reception, which, in affection -and elegance, fully equalled any that I have hitherto witnessed, and -continued his journey by land, passing through the villages of -Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Skeneateles, Marcellus, &c. and re-joined -the canal at Syracuse. This journey confirmed us in the opinion, that no -part of America, or, perhaps, of the whole world, contains so many -wonders of nature as the state of New York. The lakes of Canandaigua, -Seneca and Cayuga, appeared delightful to us from the purity of their -waters, the form of their basins, and the richness of their banks. The -sight of all these beauties, and still more the kindness and urbanity of -the population through which we travelled, often made General Lafayette -regret the rapidity with which he travelled. During this journey of -upwards of one hundred and thirty miles by land, we travelled night and -day, only stopping for a few moments at each village, to enjoy the -entertainments, prepared by the inhabitants in honour of their beloved -guest, who, said they, by the simplicity, the amenity and uniformity of -his manners, towards all classes of citizens, completed the conquest of -all hearts, already devoted to him from his adherence to the cause of -America in particular, and that of liberty in general. - -From Rochester to Syracuse, we were constantly struck with the marked -beauty of the horses that formed our relays; and learned that they had -been gratuitously furnished by individuals, whose patriotic -disinterestedness was fully appreciated by the different committees -charged with the care of the general’s journey, and who returned them -public thanks. Among these generous citizens, I heard particularly -cited, Mr. de Zeng, of Geneva, and Mr. Sherwood, proprietor of the -stage-coaches at Auburn. - -On arriving at Syracuse at six o’clock in the morning, by the fading -light of the illuminations, and the crowd that filled the streets, we -learned that the people of the village had expected the national guest -all night. The splendid supper that had been prepared for the evening -before, made us an excellent breakfast, and the general passed three -hours amidst the kind congratulations of the citizens, who eagerly -pressed around him. At nine o’clock he took leave of his friends at -Syracuse, and embarked on board the canal-boat, amid the thunder of -artillery, and loud wishes for the happy termination of his voyage. - -We resumed this mode of travelling with the more pleasure, as we had -lately suffered much from the heat and dust on our last day’s journey by -land. Always incited by a wish to fulfil the promise he had given to the -citizens of Boston, the general determined to travel day and night as -long as he was on the canal, and only to halt in the towns on his route -a sufficient time to return his thanks to the inhabitants, all of whom -had made preparations for his reception. We often regretted this -necessary haste, especially on seeing the handsome towns of Rome, Utica, -Schenectady, &c. and hearing the patriotic acclamations of their -inhabitants. At Rome, which we passed through in the night by the light -of an illumination, we met with the deputation from Utica, at the head -of which the general had the satisfaction of recognising one of his -fellow soldiers, Colonel Lansing, who fought by his side at Yorktown. - -Twenty discharges of artillery announced his arrival in Utica, and at -this signal all the population gathered round him to hear the eloquent -discourse addressed to him by Judge Williams, in the name of the people. -His astonishment was extreme, when the orator informed him that the part -of the country he had traversed in so rapid and commodious a manner, was -that through which he had passed with so much difficulty and danger -during the war of the revolution, to save the garrison of Fort Stanwix -from the tomahawks of the Indian allies of Great Britain. He could -scarcely believe in so great a change, and was unable to express the -happiness he felt. We only spent four hours at Utica; but that time -would not suffice to detail all the marks of attachment that were heaped -upon him. Obliged to divide his time between his old fellow soldiers and -the children of the different schools; between the magistrates and the -ladies; and, finally, between strangers and Indians, collected from -several miles around to pay their respects to him, he still found means -to reply to the enthusiasm of all, and every one that approached him -returned satisfied and persuaded that he was an object of particular -attention. Three chiefs of Oneidas, Taniatakaya, Sangouxyonta, and -Doxtator, asked for a private interview, and recalled to his -recollection some circumstances of the campaigns of 1777 and 1778, in -which they had rendered him some services. He recognized them again, but -was greatly astonished to find, that two of them already advanced in -years at the time of which they spoke, were still living; -notwithstanding their great age, their features still preserved an -energetic expression; they spoke with warmth of the situation of their -tribe. “The chase is no longer productive,” said they; “it does not -supply our wants, and we are obliged to provide for our subsistence by -agriculture, which renders us very unhappy; but it is not owing to our -white brothers of the state of New York; they act generously towards us; -they permit us to live in peace near the bones of our fathers, which -they have not obliged us to transport to a strange land; and the -government often succours us when our harvests fail; hence we sincerely -love our white brothers, the Americans. We formerly fought for them -against the English, and we are still ready to raise the tomahawk in -their favour, whenever occasion requires it.” The general praised them -for the sentiments they expressed; he told them he had not forgotten -their former valuable services; and begged them always to regard the -Americans as good brothers; he then made them some presents of money, -and they returned well satisfied. A deputation from the county of -Oneida, waited on the general to beg him to assist in laying the first -stone of a monument, which the citizens of that county were about -erecting to the memory of Baron de Steuben, whose remains had reposed -since 1795, at Steubenville, without any mark of distinction. But the -time fixed for this ceremony, not according with the public engagements -entered into by the general with the citizens of Boston, he was under -the necessity of refusing this invitation. “If I could associate with -you,” replied he to the deputation, “in rendering to the memory of my -fellow soldier and friend Baron de Steuben, those honours you intend -bestowing and of which no one is more worthy, without my missing the -celebration at Bunker’s Hill, it would not be the fatigues of a long and -rapid journey that would deter me, you may be fully persuaded; but a -single day of delay may occasion my breaking a sacred promise; you must -be aware of this, be good enough therefore to be the bearers of my -regrets to the citizens of Steubenville, and assure them that my heart -will be with them at this melancholy ceremony, which I am obliged to -forego attending in spite of my wishes.” - -The regrets of General Lafayette were the more acute and sincere, as he -could, better perhaps than any other, appreciate the rare qualities and -noble character of Baron de Steuben, who had shared with him the toils -and dangers of the Virginia campaign. - -Frederic William Steuben was born in Prussia, in 1735. Destined for a -career of arms, his education was entirely military, and he early -entered the service. His knowledge, his well tried courage, and his zeal -in the performance of his duties, did not escape the penetration of -Frederic the Great, who promoted him rapidly, and attached him -particularly to his own person. The young Steuben did not fail to profit -by the lessons of his illustrious master, and obtained a brilliant -reputation among the best generals of the age. But neither the glory he -had acquired, nor the favours of the greatest king of the time, could -counterbalance his love for liberty. As soon as he learned that the -American colonies, shaking off the despotism of England, were ready to -maintain their independence by an appeal to arms, he crossed the ocean -and offered them his services, declaring that he was ambitious of no -other honour than that of acting as a volunteer in a good cause, and -that he would accept neither rank nor pay before he had given proofs of -his valour. This noble disinterestedness, and the services he rendered -the American army, merited him the friendship of Washington, and the -confidence of congress, who elevated him to the rank of major-general. -His candour and moderation equalled his skill and bravery. After the -peace, wishing to enjoy the fruits of that liberty to which he had -contributed so gloriously, he retired to Oneida county, to lands given -him by congress, and there, cultivating in solitude his mind and his -fields, he philosophically waited for death; which suddenly made him its -prey in 1795. He was then about sixty years of age. According to his -wish, expressed in his last will, he was wrapped in his cloak, placed in -a simple wooden coffin, and committed to the earth without a stone or an -inscription to mark the place of his sepulchre. He laid for a long time -in a thick wood near his house, when his remains were menaced with -profanation by the opening of a public road through his property. -Colonel Walker, his former friend, hastened to collect them, and the -inhabitants of Steubenville, and of the county of Oneida, resolved to -enclose them in a durable monument, as an expression of their gratitude -and esteem for the German warrior. - -A cannon, the signal of the departure of the guest of the nation, had -already been heard twenty-four times. The boat that was to take him to -Schenectady was ready, and the people assembled on the quays and the -bridges that cross the canal, waited in silence for his departure. When -he embarked, and our light vessel, drawn by superb white horses, had -begun to glide through the water, three cheers expressed to him the last -farewell of the inhabitants of Utica, whilst children placed on the -bridges, showered down flowers upon him as the boat passed beneath. -Standing on the prow of the vessel with his head uncovered, General -Lafayette replied by signs of gratitude to those testimonies of popular -esteem. His son and myself, witnesses of this touching scene, remained -near him, partaking both of the enthusiasm of the people, and the -happiness of him that was the object of it, when our attention was -suddenly attracted by the cries of a man who followed the boat, by -running along the bank, and making signs to us to stop. His copper -colour, half naked body, and grotesque ornaments, marked him for an -Indian. Although his intention to board us was manifest, our captain, -Major Swartwout, did not think it advisable to stop. The Indian, -therefore, exerting all his strength, hastened his pace so much, as to -pass us considerably, and at last waited on the last bridge near the -town. At the moment he passed beneath it, he sprung on the deck, and -fell on his feet in the midst of us, admirably erect. “Where is Kayewla? -I wish to see Kayewla,” cried he with agitation. The general was pointed -out to him. His countenance expressed the greatest satisfaction “I am -the son of Wekchekaeta,” said he, stretching out his hand; “of him who -loved you so well, that he followed you to your country when you -returned there after the great war; my father has often spoken to me of -you, and I am happy to see you.” The general had already learned that -Wekchekaeta had died some years since, and was glad to meet with his -son, who appeared to be about twenty-four years of age. He made him sit -down, and conversed several minutes with him, and rendered him happy by -presenting him with several dollars, when he left us. The young Indian -was as little embarrassed to find a mode of leaving the boat as he had -been to enter it. We were separated from the bank of the canal by about -ten feet; he sprung over this space with the lightness of a deer, and -disappeared in an instant. This singular visit greatly excited the -curiosity of our fellow passengers, and the general hastened to satisfy -it by relating the history of Wekchekaeta, whom he carried to Europe -with him in 1778, and who, soon disgusted with civilization, joyfully -returned to his native wilds. - -To describe our voyage from Utica to Schenectady, a distance of about -eighty miles, would be to repeat what has already been said when -speaking of that in the upper part of the canal. We arrived in the -latter town next day, 11th June, about dinner time. We remained there -only a few hours, which the inhabitants rendered very pleasant to the -general, and in the evening set out in carriages for Albany, which is -about sixteen miles distant from it. We lost much, we were told, in not -continuing our route by the canal, which, during the whole of that -route, runs along the river Mohawk, over which it twice passes by -aqueducts of 1800 feet in length, but pressed for time, we were obliged -to choose the shortest road; besides, we had travelled, since leaving -Lockport, for near three hundred miles on the canal, and we had been -able to judge of the beauty and utility of this great channel of -communication, executed in eight years by the state of New York alone, -unassisted by any foreign aid. There are still some few parts to be -finished, before the navigation will be open the whole length of the -canal; but these will be accomplished in a few months, when the boats -passing from Lake Erie to Albany will traverse a length of three hundred -and sixty miles, and descend a height of five hundred and fifty feet, by -means of eighty-three locks built of hewn stone, and whose basin of -thirty feet long by fifteen broad, will admit boats of upwards of one -hundred tons burthen. The total expenses for the construction of this -canal are estimated at ten millions of dollars. This sum appears -enormous at first view, but nevertheless it is trifling, when the -immense advantages that will accrue to the state of New York are taken -into consideration. The tolls demanded for the right of navigation, -although very low, have already produced, during the year 1824, the sum -of 350,761 dollars; and it is believed that the receipts will amount -this year to 500,000 dollars, and that in the nine succeeding years it -will increase at the rate of 75,000 dollars per annum, so that at the -end of ten years, the debt incurred in the accomplishment of this great -work will be liquidated, and also, after deducting 100,000 dollars -annually for repairs, &c., the state of New York will receive from its -canal, a nett revenue of a million of dollars, which is four times more -than the expenses of its government.[16] - -The state of New York will then present the new spectacle of a community -of more than two millions of men, not only supporting its government -without taxes, but also having money arising from its own property. The -citizens of that state will always, it is true, have to pay the duties -the general government thinks right to impose on the importation of -foreign products; but the independent farmer, who produces on his farm -all the necessaries of life, may live without paying any tax either -direct or indirect, to the state or the general government. - -I present this picture of the public prosperity of the state of New -York, for the consideration of our European politicians and economists. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Return to Boston—Reception of Lafayette by the Legislature of - Massachusetts—Celebration of the anniversary of Bunker’s - Hill—History of the Revolution familiar to the Americans—Departure - from Boston. - - -We arrived at Albany before sunrise, on the 12th of June, and some hours -afterwards we had already crossed the Hudson, and advanced rapidly -towards Massachusetts, whose western border is traced parallel to that -river at about twenty-five miles from the left bank; we had still to -travel one hundred and fifty miles before reaching Boston, but the -excellence of the roads insured us a rapid journey, and hence General -Lafayette was certain of arriving in time to fulfil his engagements. -Nevertheless, he determined to stop only for such time as was absolutely -necessary for repose. We therefore entered Boston on the 15th at a -little before noon. In publishing this happy arrival, the newspapers -caused much astonishment and joy, throughout the Union. Few persons -believed in the possibility of his return for the anniversary of -Bunker’s hill, and every one considered the journey he had performed as -almost magical. In fact, had he not travelled, in less than four months, -a distance of upwards of five thousand miles, traversed seas near the -equator, and lakes near the polar circle, ascended rapid rivers to the -verge of civilization in the new world, and received the homage of -sixteen republics! And our astonishment is increased, when it is -recollected that this extraordinary journey was performed by a man of 67 -years of age! The plan of this journey had been, it is true, ably and -skilfully planned by Mr. M’Lean, the postmaster-general, General -Bernard, and Mr. George Lafayette; and had been followed with a -precision and exactness, that could only have resulted from the -unanimity of feeling which animated both the people and the magistrates -of the different states; but, during so long a journey, amidst so many -dangers, it would have been impossible to foresee accidents, one of -which, by delaying us only a few days, would have deranged all our -calculations, and yet our good luck was such that we never lost a moment -of the time so exactly portioned out, and arrived on the precise day -fixed upon. - -In returning to the city of Boston, where so many old and firm friends -expected him, General Lafayette would have experienced unalloyed -satisfaction, if he had not been obliged to deplore the loss of two -sincere friends, whom death had snatched away during his short absence, -the ex-governor Brooks and Governor Eustis, who departed this life, in -possession of the esteem and regret of all who knew them, and had -experienced their sage administration. This was the commencement of the -accomplishment of the prophetic words of Lafayette’s companions in arms, -who all, in shaking him by the hand, had exclaimed, “We have again seen -our old general—we have lived long enough!” - -The day after our arrival, in accordance with an invitation that had -been given him, the general went to the Capitol, where the new governor, -Mr. Lincoln, the senate, house of representatives, and civil authorities -of Boston, had united to receive and compliment him. After we had taken -our places in this assembly, the governor rose, and in the name of the -state of Massachusetts, congratulated the guest of the nation on the -happy termination of his long journey. - -As soon as the general had made his reply, the members of the two houses -left their places, and crowded round him to offer him an individual -expression of their feelings, and sincere congratulations were showered -upon him from the galleries, which were filled by a great number of -ladies anxious to see him once again. Among the strangers of distinction -who were present at this scene, we recognized with much pleasure, Mr. -Barbour, appointed secretary of war since Mr. Adams had entered on his -functions as president; Colonel M‘Lane of the state of Delaware, Colonel -Dwight, Drs. Mitchill and Fisk, General Courtland and Colonel Stone of -New York, who had all arrived within a few days to be present at the -ceremonies of the 17th of June. - -On leaving the capitol, the general was reconducted by a numerous escort -of friends to the house of Senator Lloyd, where we found our -accommodations prepared the preceding evening, through the hospitable -attentions of his amiable family. - -The sun of the fiftieth anniversary of the battle of Bunker’s hill arose -in full radiance, and thousands of voices uniting with the joyous sounds -of the bells and reports of artillery saluted it with patriotic -acclamations. At seven o’clock in the morning, passing through a crowd, -agitated by glorious recollections of the 17th of June 1775, General -Lafayette went to the grand lodge of Massachusetts, where deputations -from the grand lodges of Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, -Connecticut, Vermont, and New Jersey, had joined the officers of the -chapter and knights of the temple, to receive and compliment him. - -At ten o’clock, two thousand free masons, sixteen companies of volunteer -infantry and a corps of cavalry, the different corporation and the civil -and military authorities, assembled at the capitol, where the procession -was formed under the command of General Lyman, whilst the grand master, -and deputies of the masonic order, went for General Lafayette to Mr. -Lloyd’s, where he had retired on leaving the temple. - -At half after ten, the procession took up the line of march. It was -composed of about seven thousand persons. Two hundred officers and -soldiers of the revolution marched at the head; forty veterans, the -honourable remains of the heroes of Bunker’s hill, followed in eight -open carriages; they were decorated with a large riband on which was -this inscription: June 17th, 1775. Some wore the cartouch boxes they had -emptied on that remarkable day, and one who had been a drummer, still -carried the instrument whose sound had so often rallied the American -battalions, broken by the English columns; behind them marched a long -array of numerous subscribers to the monument, formed in ranks of six, -and followed by two thousand masons, covered with rich ornaments and -symbols of the order; afterwards came General Lafayette in a superb -calash drawn by six white horses. Following him were a long file of -carriages, in which were his son, his secretary, the governor of -Massachusetts and staff, and a great number of persons of distinction, -both natives and foreigners. This column advanced to the sound of music -and bells, in the midst of two hundred thousand citizens, collected from -all the states in the Union, whilst discharges of artillery and general -acclamations saluted it at short intervals. It arrived at Bunker’s hill -at half after twelve; and in a short time every one was arranged in -regular order on the hill on which the monument was to be elevated, as a -mark of national gratitude to the first heroes of the revolution. - -The modest pyramid formerly raised over the remains of Warren and his -companions, and which we had seen on our first visit to Bunker’s hill, -had disappeared. From its principal piece of timber, a cane had been -formed, on the gold head of which was an inscription, alluding to its -origin, and mentioning that it was presented by the masons of -Charlestown to General Lafayette, who accepted it as one of the most -precious relics of the American revolution; and a large excavation -indicated the spot on which the new monument was to be placed. - -A short time after we had taken our places around this excavation, and -silence was established throughout the innumerable crowd, who waited in -religious meditation for the commencement of the ceremony, the grand -master of the grand lodge of Massachusetts, accompanied by the principal -dignitaries of the order, brother Lafayette, Mr. Webster and the -principal architect, proceeded to lay the first stone, with the forms -prescribed by masonic regulations; in an iron box were placed medals, -pieces of money, a plate of silver on which was engraved an account of -the foundation of the monument; over this box was laid a stone on which -the grand master poured corn, wine and oil, whilst the Rev. Mr. Allen, -the chaplain of the day, pronounced the benediction. The masonic order -to finish the monument, was then given, and a discharge of artillery -proclaimed that the first part of the ceremony was accomplished. - -The procession then marched to a vast amphitheatre constructed on the -north-east side of the hill, in the centre of which rose a platform, -from which the orator of the day could make his voice heard by the -fifteen thousand auditors placed in the amphitheatre; all the officers -and soldiers of the revolution, some of whom had arrived from distant -places to assist at this solemnity, were seated in front of the -platform; the survivors of Bunker’s hill forming a small group before -them. At the head of these, in a chair, was the only surviving general -of the revolution, General Lafayette; and immediately behind, two -thousand ladies, in brilliant dresses, appeared to form a guard of -honour to the venerable men, and to defend them against the tumultuous -approaches of the crowd; behind the ladies, were more than ten thousand -persons seated on the numerous benches placed in a semi-circular form on -the side of the hill, the summit of which was crowded by more than -thirty-thousand spectators, who, although beyond the reach of the -orator’s voice, maintained the most perfect silence. After the agitation -that inevitably accompanies the movement of so large a concourse had -subsided, the melodious voices of a great number of musicians were -heard; these, placed behind the speaker’s stand, chaunted a patriotic -and religious ode, whose sweet and simple harmony prepared all minds for -the deep impressions of eloquence. To this chaunt, succeeded a prayer by -Dr. Dexter. When that venerable pastor, who had the honour of combating -at Bunker’s hill, appeared before the assembly, with his white locks -falling over his shoulders, when he lifted upwards his hands withered by -time, and in a voice which was still strong, implored the benediction of -the Eternal on the labours of the day, all the bystanders were -penetrated with inexpressible emotions. At last, the orator of the day, -Mr. Webster, presented himself; his lofty stature, his athletic form, -noble expression of face, and the fire of his looks, were in perfect -harmony with the grandeur of the scene around. Already celebrated for -his eloquence, Mr. Webster was received by the assembly with strong -marks of satisfaction; the flattering murmur with which he was saluted, -rose from the base to the summit of the hill, and prevented him from -commencing his discourse for some moments. During his speech, the orator -was sometimes interrupted by bursts of applause from his auditory, who -could not restrain the expression of their sympathetic feelings, when -Mr. Webster addressed himself to the revolutionary veterans and General -Lafayette, and they, uncovering their venerable heads, arose to receive -the thanks he bestowed upon them in the name of the people. A hymn -chaunted in chorus by the whole assembly succeeded the discourse, and -terminated the second part of the ceremony. - -At a signal gun, the procession was again formed, ascended the hill, and -seated themselves at a banquet, spread on the summit; there, under an -immense wooden building, four thousand persons were accommodated at -table without confusion or discomfort; the tables were disposed with so -much art, that the voice of the president and of those who gave the -toasts or delivered addresses was easily heard, not only by the guests, -but likewise by a great number of the spectators around; the names of -Warren, of the orator of the day, and of the guest of the nation, were -successively proclaimed during the repast. Before leaving the table, -General Lafayette rose to return his thanks to the members of the -association for erecting the monument on Bunker’s hill; and concluded by -offering the following toast: “Bunker’s hill, and that holy resistance -to oppression, which has already disenthralled the American hemisphere. -The anniversary toast at the jubilee of the next half century will be, -to Europe freed.” - -This toast was enthusiastically received, and immediately afterwards the -guests left the table in order to return to their homes. - -The brilliance and heat of a clear summer’s day was succeeded by a -delicious evening, cooled by a gentle sea breeze; to enjoy it the -better, Mr. George Lafayette proposed to me to return to Boston on foot. -I accepted his invitation, and we mingled with the crowds that were -slowly descending the hill and discussing the ceremonies of the day; -these discussions were always mingled with a mention of the guest of the -nation, and a recital of the principal actions that had entitled him to -the gratitude of the American people. Here, as in all other assemblies -of the people, that I had an opportunity of observing, during our -journey, I was struck with a remarkable peculiarity; the perfect -knowledge of the events of the revolution that is disseminated through -all classes of community, not even excepting the children; I have often -heard boys of from eight to ten years of age, talking to each other of -the events of the revolutionary war with astonishing precision; they -related to each other what they had read or learnt, how, for example, -Lafayette arrived in the United States, his receiving a wound at -Brandywine, what he had done at Rhode Island and Monmouth; that, whilst -he was commander in chief in Virginia, he had, after a campaign of five -months, forced Cornwallis to take refuge in Yorktown, where the French -fleet under Count de Grasse, and Washington at the head of Rochambeau’s -division and that of Lincoln, had joined him and laid siege to that -town, and forced the English and their Hanoverian auxiliaries to -capitulate. I am aware that the arrival of Lafayette in the different -towns, gave rise to a recollection of those facts; I also had constant -proofs, that the other events of the revolution were equally familiar to -all classes of society, from the veterans, with whom they were a never -failing topic of conversation, to school children, who were proud of the -deeds of their ancestors, and of the republican liberty, they had the -happiness to enjoy. Another very remarkable trait in the American -character, is, that the people are not only free and happy, but that -they appreciate this happiness and liberty; and what English travellers -have termed vanity, is only the firm conviction of the superiority of -the institutions and civil dignity maintained by the Americans, as a man -in perfect health returns thanks to heaven for the blessings he enjoys; -this is so true, that American patriotism (we may say the same of French -liberalism, but not of English patriotism) is entirely free from a -jealousy of other nations, whose liberty and prosperity are cordially -hailed by the people of the United States. - -Yielding to the wishes of the inhabitants of Boston, General Lafayette -remained several days in their city after the ceremonies at Bunker’s -hill, and divided his time amidst the society of his private friends and -the public, who, till the last moment, bestowed on him testimonies of -their attachment. On the 20th he accepted a dinner given him by the -Mechanics’ Society, where he met all the public functionaries, and the -most distinguished personages of the state, who had accepted the -invitation with equal warmth, so great is the deference paid by every -one in the United States to the useful classes of society. - -During his visit to Boston, General Lafayette received and accepted -invitations from the states of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, where -his presence was impatiently looked for by the people, and one from the -city of New York, who ardently desired that he would celebrate the 4th -of July, the anniversary of American independence, with them. To fulfil -all these engagements in so short a time, appeared difficult, but still -the general did not despair of accomplishing it, for he knew by -experience how much both the magistrates and the people strove to render -his journeys agreeable and rapid. On the 20th he went to take leave of -his old friend, John Adams; and employed all the day of the 21st to -receiving farewell visits in the city; on the 22d he set out, -accompanied by the committee of arrangement and a corps of volunteer -cavalry. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Rapid and hasty visit to the states of New Hampshire, Maine, and - Vermont—Return to New York—Celebration of the Anniversary of - American Independence—American vessels of war—Patriotism and - disinterestedness of the Seamen of New York. - - -In commencing this journal, I had determined to record each day, all the -events of this extraordinary journey, but their multiplicity, and above -all, the rapidity of our movements, often obliged me to forego the -rigorous fulfilment of this plan; and it was in traversing the states of -Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, more especially, that I felt the -utter impossibility of noting all the interesting occurrences, all the -honourable and interesting circumstances that characterised the visit of -General Lafayette to that part of the Union. We travelled through these -states at a speed of eleven miles per hour. We often passed through so -many villages and towns on the same day, that my memory could not retain -their names. I could not therefore find the necessary time to record all -the historic or statistical details, which I had amply gleaned in a -majority of the other states, and shall only be able, in this chapter, -to retrace some of the entertainments given by the Green Mountain boys, -and their neighbours, to the guest of the nation. - -I have said that General Lafayette left Boston on the 22d May, early in -the morning. A few hours after his departure, he arrived at Pembroke on -the borders of New Hampshire, where he was received by a deputation from -that state at the head of which was Mr. Webster, brother to the orator -of Bunker’s hill, who complimented him in the name of his fellow -citizens. From Pembroke to Concord, the capital of the state, his -triumphal progress was attended by a large escort of citizens collected -even from distant places. On arriving in that town, he was immediately -conducted to the capitol, where the house of representatives and the -senate, presided over by the governor of the state, were assembled to -receive him. The address delivered by Governor Morrill, was remarkable -for the vivid expression of the feelings of gratitude and attachment -entertained towards him by the people of New Hampshire. He replied to -this speech with great emotion. - -After this reception the general was led into another room in the -capitol, where General Pierce was in attendance, and who presented to -him a great number of his old fellow soldiers, who, notwithstanding age -and fatigue, had not hesitated to leave their distant fire-sides to -shake hands and recall with him for a moment, scenes long passed. They, -as well as the senators and members of the house of representatives, -were individually introduced to him; the people joyfully prepared a -dinner in the public square for six hundred guests, to which we were -invited on leaving the capitol. The general had the pleasure of finding -himself seated in the midst of two hundred officers and soldiers of the -revolution, who could scarcely restrain their joy at the presence of -their old friend. - -Before leaving the table, several expressed in their toasts their -feelings of philanthropic liberty. One drank “to the holy alliance -between Lafayette and liberty—may it overthrow all plots against the -rights of man.” Another gave “North America as she is, France as she -ought to be.” The general replied to these wishes by the following -toast: “The state of New Hampshire and its representatives, and this -town, the residence of the constituted authorities of the state. May the -citizens of New Hampshire always enjoy civil and religious liberty, -benefits which the elevated souls of their ancestors led them to seek in -a distant land, and which their fathers have founded on the solid basis -of the sovereignty of the people, and the rights of men.” A discharge of -artillery, and the unanimous plaudits of the crowd that surrounded the -tables, attended this toast, and we left the table to proceed to the -capitol square, where the militia were drawn up, waiting until the -general reviewed them. - -Our evening was divided between the musical society, who performed an -excellent oratorio, and a party at Governor Morrill’s, at which were -crowds of ladies, wishing to take leave of the national guest, who the -next day left Concord with an escort of a corps of cavalry, and took the -road to Dover, where he arrived before evening, and was received with an -enthusiasm I shall not pretend to describe. - -After having quitted Dover, we arrived on the frontiers of Maine, where -General Lafayette was received by a deputation, with which we directed -our course to Portland, the seat of government of that state. On the way -we visited Kennebunk, a small town of about 2,500 inhabitants, -remarkable for the commercial activity of its port. The sound of bells -and artillery announced to the general with what pleasure he was -expected by the people, with whom he resolved to spend some hours. When -he entered the town-house, where the authorities of the state waited for -him, he was received by Dr. Emmerson, who addressed him in the name of -his fellow citizens. - -Although the general had but a short time to devote to the citizens of -Kennebunk, he yet accepted the public dinner they had prepared for him, -and took his seat on a chair elegantly decorated with flowers by the -ladies of the town: at the end of the repast each citizen expressed the -feelings he experienced at this patriotic reunion, and Dr. Emmerson gave -the following toast: “Our national guest, General Lafayette—he left -Europe to give liberty to America; he returned to teach his country the -manner of achieving happiness. To-day he comes among us to enjoy the -result of his glorious deeds.” - -The general replied to this toast by the following: “The village of -Kennebunk, on the site of which the first tree was felled on the day in -which the first gun was fired at Lexington, the signal of American and -universal liberty! May that glorious date always be a pledge of the -republican prosperity and increasing happiness of Kennebunk.” - -On leaving the table, and before departing from the town, the general -repaired to the house of one of the principal citizens, Mr. Storer, -where all the ladies were assembled to be introduced to him. He thanked -them affectionately for the delicate attentions which they had paid him -during his stay at Kennebunk, and at 4 o’clock, P. M. he commenced his -journey to Saco, where he slept. - -On the 25th we arrived at Portland, a pretty town on the sea-shore, -between the rivers Saco and Penobscot. It had been for a long time the -seat of government of Maine, and its population, almost entirely -commercial, is about nine thousand souls. The citizens of Portland and -their magistrates had prepared a reception worthy of their love for -Lafayette, and it may be said not to have yielded in magnificence to -that accorded him by the largest cities of the Union; the militia, -assembled from every part of the state, presented an imposing body in -front of the town. The children of the different schools occupied the -streets through which the general was to pass, and strewed flowers upon -his path. The triumphal arches under which he passed, were remarkable -for their good taste, and the delicacy of the inscriptions with which -they were decorated. Upon one of them was a small model of a ship, under -which was written, “_I will purchase and equip a vessel at my own -expense!_” Words which Lafayette addressed, as is known, to the American -commissioners at Paris, in 1777, when the latter acknowledged the -inability of their country to provide the means of transporting him to -the United States. Upon others were the names of the battles in which -the young companion in arms of Washington had fought. Having slowly -traversed the town amidst the acclamations of the crowd, the general -arrived at the state house, where Governor Parris received and addressed -him on behalf of the citizens of Maine, and in the presence of the -representatives and magistrates of the people. The governor, in his -address, recalled with enthusiasm the glorious epoch which commenced the -reputation of Lafayette, and offered a merited tribute of eulogy and -admiration to the soldiers of the revolution. - -Replete with a vivid emotion in which all his auditors participated, -General Lafayette briefly replied, but with that aptness and vigour, for -which he was uniformly conspicuous. - -From the senate chamber the general went to the house of Mr. Daniel -Cobb, which had been prepared for him. He was there waited upon by a -great number of deputations, who offered him the greetings of the -neighbouring towns and villages. The grand officers of the masonic lodge -of Portland were also there, and the president of the academy, who, in -presence of the professors and students, conferred upon him the title of -LL.D. As soon as he could disengage himself for a moment from the crowd, -he visited Mrs. Thatcher, the daughter of his illustrious companion in -arms, James Knox, with whom he remained until he was informed that the -public authorities waited to accompany him to the dinner prepared by the -citizens. - -From Portland, the general would have been well pleased to continue his -route to the extremity of the state of Maine, but time was wanting; he -therefore retraced his steps towards Burlington, passing through -Windsor, Woodstock, Montpelier, &c. Although Vermont is very -mountainous, which rendered the road more difficult, we travelled with -extreme rapidity, advancing almost all the time more than nine miles an -hour, relays of horses having been well disposed by the inhabitants, in -order that the general might not be retarded in his progress to New -York. On the morning of the 28th, we arrived at Burlington, the -beautiful situation of which, on the delightful shores of Lake -Champlain, excited our admiration. Whilst we were viewing, with pleasure -and astonishment, the beauties of nature spread before us, we heard the -thunder of artillery, and an instant afterwards saw advancing towards us -a body of militia, preceded by a crowd of citizens, who hastened in -front of the national hotel. The good order of this body of troops, the -bold and firm step of the men who composed it, answered perfectly to the -reputation for bravery and patriotism which the inhabitants of Vermont -had acquired in the revolutionary war, and in that of 1814. Every one -knows, that it was the Vermonters who, in 1777, completed, by their -presence, the embarrassment of the English General Burgoyne, who, at -sight of their intrepid bands, presented his capitulation. Some days -before his surrender, he wrote to the British minister: “The inhabitants -of the New Hampshire[17] grants, a territory uninhabited and almost -unknown during the last war, flock together by thousands, and accumulate -upon my left like dense clouds” This letter had not yet been received in -England when already the thunderbolts which these clouds enveloped had -struck him. It was also the soldiers of Vermont, to the number of 800 -only, who, led by General Starke, engaged, on the same day, two English -detachments, took from them seven hundred prisoners, four pieces of -artillery, and all their camp equipage. Finally, it was these intrepid -Green Mountain boys who formed the troops which preserved Plattsburg -from pillage by the English, on the 11th of September, 1814; and the raw -crews, who, with vessels built in eighteen days, forced an enemy -superior in number, to strike a flag which claimed the absolute empire -of the sea. - -The governor, who had met the general at Windsor, and who had travelled -with him from that city, introduced him to the citizens and magistrates -of Burlington, who received him with the most affectionate addresses. I -shall not insert here, notwithstanding their eloquence, the numerous -speeches addressed to him by the representatives of the different -branches of the administration and government, nor his answers, in which -he congratulated the state of Vermont on their enjoying so nobly the -benefits of the new American social order, so superior to the least -vicious institutions of Europe, and at having replaced European -tolerance by religious _liberty_; _privilege_ by right; a shadow of -representation and an unequal compromise between the aristocratic -families and the people, by a true representation by the principle of -the sovereignty of the nation, and its self-government. But I cannot -refrain from relating some of the patriotic remarks of these veterans, -glorious and living monuments of the revolutionary war, who crowded -around their old chief, the companion of former dangers, privations, and -glory, and repeating with enthusiasm the names of the battles, in which -he had aided them in achieving the independence of their country. Formed -in column in the public square, to the number of more than a hundred, -they listened at first in silence to the discourse addressed to the -general by Mr. Griswold, president of the council; afterwards they -advanced in their turn, conducted by one of their comrades, David -Russel, whom they had chosen to be the organ of their sentiments, and -who performed the office with that eloquence of heart which is inspired -by love of country and of liberty. When the general had answered to the -professions of attachment of his old companions in arms, they all in -turn approached to shake hands with him, reminding him more particularly -of the circumstances under which each had known him, or had fought by -his side. One of them, Sergeant Day, showed him a sword, saying, “It is -nearly half a century since I received this from your hands, general.” -And I heard it said in the crowd, that notwithstanding his great age, -Sergeant Day had not found this sword too heavy for his arm in 1814. - -After the public dinner, which was concluded before night, the general -visited the university, where he was invited to lay the corner stone of -a new building intended to be added to the establishment, which an -incendiary had destroyed a year before, and which the zeal of the -inhabitants of Vermont for the diffusion of knowledge had entirely -rebuilt in a few months. In the solidity and elegance of these buildings -it was easy to see the _hand of the people_. The ceremony of laying the -corner stone took place in presence of the pupils of the university, -their professors, the magistrates of the city, and a great concourse of -citizens, who saw with joy the restoration and enlargement of an -institution destined to render more permanent the support of their wise -institutions, by instructing and enlightening the rising generations. -Mr. Willard Preston, president of the university, thanked General -Lafayette for the evidence he had given of his interest in the education -of the youth of Vermont, and we proceeded to the residence of Governor -Van Ness, whose delightful dwelling and gardens arranged with exquisite -taste, were still more charmingly embellished by an assemblage of ladies -and gentlemen, who, during the whole evening, contended for the pleasure -of approaching the nation’s guest, to express their sentiments of -affection and gratitude for the services he had rendered to their -country and forefathers; for, in the state of Vermont, as in all the -rest of the Union, the females are not strangers either to the -principles of government, or to the obligations of patriotism; their -education, more liberal than in any part of Europe, places them in a -condition more worthy the rank of thinking beings, as it is well known -that in all the great events which have agitated the United States at -different periods, the enthusiasm of the women powerfully seconded the -energy of the magistrates, and the devotion of the warriors. One of the -circumstances which contributed most to augment my attachment to the -Americans during my stay among them, is the profound respect that they -pay to females of every rank, and the tender care with which they -protect this sex. - -About midnight General Lafayette quitted the town of Burlington, -carrying with him the good wishes and benedictions of the inhabitants, -who accompanied him to the shore, where there were two steam-boats, the -Phœnix and Congress, both having awnings, illuminated and ornamented -with designs and transparencies. He went on board the Phœnix, which -saluted him with thirteen guns on his embarkation, when the anchor was -quickly weighed, amidst the loud farewells of the crowd who lined the -shores. The Congress having on board a deputation from Vermont, and a -large number of citizens, followed the Phœnix, and during the whole -night we ploughed the waters, upon which Commodore M’Donough and his -intrepid sailors covered themselves with glory on the 11th Sept. 1814. -We should have been pleased, before leaving these places, to visit -Plattsburg, where on the same day General M’Comb merited the gratitude -of his country, by repulsing the veteran troops of Britain, with a -handful of raw volunteers, who, at the first rumour of the invasion of -their territory, had flocked around him; but the 4th of July was -approaching, and rendered it necessary for us to hasten our progress. - -The following day, June 30, about noon, we arrived at Whitehall, where -General Lafayette disembarked under a canopy formed of two hundred flags -of all nations, to the thunder of artillery, and between two lines of -girls who scattered flowers over him as he passed. Whitehall is -celebrated in the history of the revolutionary war. General Burgoyne -boasted in parliament, at London, that those whom he called the rebels -of America, were so incapable of resisting, that with five thousand -regular troops he would march from Canada to Boston, where he would take -up his winter quarters. He embarked in fact with his army on Lake -Champlain, disembarked at Whitehall, and not far from the latter place, -at Saratoga, he was compelled to capitulate, and passed, it is true, the -winter at Boston, but as a prisoner of war. At the conclusion of the -public dinner which the citizens of Whitehall gave to General Lafayette, -he referred to this remarkable fact, by giving the following -toast:—“Whitehall! May this town for ever enjoy the advantages resulting -to her from the manner in which the English general’s prophecy was -accomplished!” - -We could remain but a short time with the inhabitants of Whitehall, who -having furnished good carriages, and excellent horses, enabled us to -pass rapidly over the eighty miles that separated us from Albany, where -we were to embark for New York. After sunset we crossed Fish Creek, and -stopped some minutes at the house of Mr. Schuyler, which is built on the -precise spot where General Burgoyne delivered his sword to General -Gates. At Whitehall we were told of the boast of the English general, -and we now found ourselves on the field of battle which humbled his -pride; we should have been exceedingly pleased to visit this theatre of -one of the most glorious events of the revolution; but the night was too -far advanced, and we were compelled to forego this pleasure. To make -amends, as far as he could, Mr. Schuyler had the goodness to give us a -very detailed account of the battle of Saratoga. “The ground,” he told -us “has not undergone any change; the entrenchments, though considerably -effaced by time, are nevertheless easy to be recognised.” In fact, the -old patriots of that period can still show their children the path which -the aid of General Gates took, when he carried the _ultimatum_ to the -English general, and the road by which the English army left their -entrenchments to lay down their arms before rebels, who, almost without -arms, and destitute of equipments, commenced so gloriously the -acquisition of their independence. But these traces will one day -disappear. Why not erect in the midst of them, a more durable monument, -which shall remind future generations of the courage and patriotism of -this glorious generation, which time will soon render extinct? - -After a short time passed with the family of Mr. Schuyler, we left them, -to sleep at a neighbouring town, and the next morning we continued our -journey by a road which winds along the Hudson, sometimes to the right, -at others on the left of the northern canal, which latter is constructed -parallel to the river, and a short distance from its right shore; in -crossing Fish Creek we re-entered the state of New York. We crossed the -Hudson at Waterford; this spot is rendered remarkable by the junction of -the northern with the western or great canal, which is just at the -confluence of the rivers Mohawk and Hudson. On the 2d of July, we -visited Lansinburgh, and returned to Troy, but without stopping any -time. A steam-boat had been prepared for us at Albany; on board of which -we went that evening, and at daylight we arrived at New York, where we -disembarked almost unexpectedly. - -Nevertheless, there was a great bustle, and a great number of strangers -were observed in the streets; every moment vessels and carriages were -arriving, followed by others which seemed to come from a greater -distance. Detachments of militia from the neighbouring towns, -inhabitants of the surrounding country, were constantly swelling the -population of New York. Night did not interrupt these movements, the -precursors of a great event. Accordingly at midnight, a discharge of -artillery announced the commencement of a day ever glorious in the -records of the history of the New World, and some hours afterwards the -sun of the Fourth of July rose radiantly to illumine the 49th -anniversary of the declaration of independence of a republic, whose -great lessons will not be lost to the human race. - -In the morning the militia were under arms, the streets, the public -places, and the entrances to the churches, were thronged with people, -and the air resounded with thanksgiving. At eight o’clock the officers -and magistrates of New York and Brooklyn, with a number of citizens, -visited General Lafayette, and invited him to lay the corner stone of a -building for a mechanics’ library at Brooklyn. The general acceded with -pleasure to the wishes of the magistrates, and proceeded to Brooklyn, -where, assisted by some free masons of Long Island, he laid the corner -stone of the edifice, in presence of a great concourse of citizens, -arranged in front of whom the young mechanics loudly expressed their joy -and gratitude; finally, he returned to New York, followed by companies -of journeymen tailors, shoemakers, bakers, stone-masons, cutlers, -coopers, riggers, &c., who, preceded by their banners, accompanied him -to church, where he attended divine worship. The sermon, the subject of -which was the solemnity of the day, was followed by the reading of the -declaration of independence, which was listened to with profound -attention. This declaration, a monument of fearlessness and wisdom, -whose magic influence saved the colonies at a moment when, without -money, munitions of war, or arms, they engaged in a formidable contest -with the colossal power of Great Britain, affected the Americans even at -the present day, after half a century, as if it were the moment when it -was first proclaimed. Not only is it read every year on the fourth of -July, in public, but also in many families. It is not uncommon to find -the houses of the Americans ornamented with the declaration of -independence, beautifully engraved with facsimiles of the signatures of -the immortal signers attached to it, and splendidly framed. Even -children know it by heart; it is commonly the first object upon which -the youthful memory is exercised; it is their pleasing task to translate -it into the different languages which they study; and when they recite -it in the midst of a circle of their relations or friends, it is easy to -perceive that they are penetrated, as were their fathers, with the -incontestible truth of the principle, that “when a long train of abuses -and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same object, evinces a design -to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is their right, it is their -duty, to throw off such government, and to provide new guards for their -future security.” - -I have often heard children of from ten to twelve years of age recite -this extract in English and French, and it was never without deep -emotion that they enumerated the oppressions and vexations exercised -towards the American colonies by the mother country. It was easy to -perceive that patriotism and liberty had taken deep roots in their young -hearts, when they pronounced the pledge which terminates the concluding -paragraph. - -“We, therefore, the representatives of the United States of America, in -general congress assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world, -for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the name and by the -authority of the good people of these colonies, solemnly publish and -declare, that these united colonies are, and of right ought to be, free -and independent states; that they are absolved from all allegiance to -the British crown, and that all political connection between them and -the state of Great Britain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved; and -that, as free and independent states, they have full power to levy war, -conclude peace, contract alliances, establish commerce, and to do all -other acts and things which independent states may of right do. And for -the support of this declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection -of Divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our lives, our -fortunes, and our sacred honour.” - -After leaving church, General Lafayette went to the Park, where all the -militia and firemen were assembled, who manœuvred and defiled before him -with great precision. One of these companies had a splendid flag, on -which was represented an equestrian portrait of the nation’s guest. -After this review he entered the city hall, where the governor presented -him to the senate; by whom he was received with honours never before -bestowed upon any one. On his entrance the members arose and uncovered -themselves; the president of the senate advanced towards him, and -felicitated him on his return, and expressed to him the gratification of -the citizens of New York, at his uniting with them in the celebration of -the anniversary of the glorious fourth of July. - -From the council chamber we passed into that of the governor, where the -general was attended by the members of the society of Cincinnatus, the -European consuls, and a great number of distinguished persons, whom the -municipal body had invited to a banquet, the arrangement of which had -been given to a committee, who performed the duty in excellent taste. -Memorials of glory, of patriotism, and of liberty, were assembled in -astonishing numbers in the superb saloon of the city hall, where the -tables were arranged. The busts of Washington and Lafayette, the -portraits of Bolivar and of De Witt Clinton, were arranged in the midst -of trophies, above which always floated united the American and French -flags. The arm chair used by Washington when president, was placed in -the centre, and covered with branches of laurel and evergreens. - -The company having seated themselves at table, we observed, amidst the -happy soldiers of 1776, proscribed persons from almost every country of -Europe, to whom places had been assigned by the republican hospitality -of the new world. Among these exiles were members of the Spanish cortes, -driven from their country by despotism; some learned Germans flying from -punishments as singular, as atrocious and unjust;[18] French -officers,[19] compelled to seek, in a foreign land, a repose which they -have had so often sacrificed for their native country, and all, -notwithstanding the miseries they had suffered, appeared consoled, and -their spirits revived by the prospect of the happiness enjoyed by the -freemen among whom they reside. - -According to the American custom, after dinner a number of appropriate -toasts were drank. The general, after having received the felicitations -and good wishes of all the company, went to the Park theatre, where the -audience saluted him on his entrance and his departure with three -cheers. - -After the exertions of such a day, the general required rest, and the -citizens, always attentive to his wishes, allowed him, during some days, -freely to enjoy the calmer and not less pleasant attentions of his -private friends. It was with delight that he consecrated this period to -the society of his old companions in arms, among whom were Colonel -Platt, Colonel Willett, Colonel Varick, General Van Cortland, and many -others, whose names, though they dwell in the memory of the general, -have escaped mine. - -He did not again leave the sweets of private life except to cross the -river to New Jersey, to pass a short time with his friend, Col. Varick, -who had invited him to dine with some of the principal citizens of New -York. The corporation of boatmen claimed the honour of conveying him -across the Hudson in a boat whose name was rendered popular by a recent -occurrence, which still occupied public attention. - -The captain of the English frigate Hussar, which arrived at New York in -December, 1824, had a gig of remarkably light construction, with which -he had won several races in different European ports, especially in -England. Proud of his success, and full of confidence in the speed of -his gig, he challenged the boatmen of New York, and proposed a race for -$1000; this was accepted, the money made up on their side by -subscription, and a beautiful new boat called the American Star, chosen -for the contest. The day, hour, and place were fixed. The English -captain selected four of the most expert oarsmen of his crew, and acted -as cockswain himself. The _Whitehallers_ took four of their number -without much choice, and a youth of fifteen for cockswain. The distance -to be rowed was about three miles, between Castle Garden and the point -of Long Island. The English sailors, stooping violently to their -thwarts, and bending their oars at every stroke, launched forward with -impetuosity, leaving in their wake large whirls of sparkling foam. The -Whitehallers, seated perpendicularly on their thwarts, with motionless -bodies, and their arms also nearly fixed, scarce skimmed the waves with -their slight oars, but pressing and multiplying their pulls, were under -way as soon as their adversaries, scarce disturbing the transparent -water around them. A few minutes decided the victory, sometimes so long -uncertain. Though started at the same time, the two boats were soon -separated. The Englishmen, quickly exhausted by their violent exertions, -could not equal the rapid flight of their rivals, whose prompt arrival -at the goal was announced by the joyful acclamations of the spectators, -whom curiosity had drawn from all points of the city and vicinity to the -shores. Astonished at his defeat, but unable to contest its -completeness, the English captain eagerly acknowledged the superiority -of the American boat to his own, and offered to purchase her for $3,000. -But the Whitehallers refused to sell her. “We wish to keep her,” said -they, “as a monument of the victory we have had the honour of gaining -over you; but to lessen the regrets caused by our refusal, we will run -you another race, for double the stake, in which you shall man our boat -against us, and we will man yours.” But, however the English captain was -surprised, fearing a new defeat, or the loss of his money, he declined -the proposal. In the evening, the victorious boat was drawn on a -triumphal car through the city, and carried to the theatre, where it was -crowned, along with its four oarsmen and young cockswain. The next day -it was placed as a monument on the wharf, with the names of the crew -inscribed on the thwarts, and this legend on her gunwale: AMERICAN STAR, -Victorious, 4th December, 1824. - -It was in this boat, and with the same oarsmen who had gained the -victory, that the Whitehallers wished to convey General Lafayette to -Sandy Hook, on the other side of the North river. In this passage we -could judge of their dexterity and skill; the numerous boats which -carried the other guests were compelled to follow at a distance. On his -return, as soon as the general had disembarked, the boatmen in a body, -under the flag of their association, and led by the victors, presented -themselves, to thank him for the services which he had formerly rendered -their country, and the testimonies of esteem accorded them. Then, after -briefly relating the history of the boat in which he had crossed the -river, they begged him to accept, and take it with him to La Grange, -that it might continually recall to him the remembrance of his New York -friends, the perfection of the mechanic arts in America, and the great -motto of American seamen: “_Free trade and sailors’ rights_.”[20] - -The nature of the present and the delicacy with which it was offered, -did not permit the general to refuse it. - -Meanwhile the period which was to separate us from the citizens of New -York arrived, and our hearts were oppressed with sadness. On the 14th of -July we left that city, to which we should not return previous to -quitting America. The magistrates and the people attended the nation’s -guest. A deep melancholy was evinced in every countenance; and although -the wharves were covered with an immense multitude, a solemn silence was -observed during our embarkation, interrupted only by the last farewell. - - - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Letter of Mr. Keratry on the anniversary of Bunker’s hill—Fair Mount - Water Works at Philadelphia—Germantown—Mr. Watson’s Historical - Box—Field of the Battle of Brandywine—Invocation of the Rev. - William Latta—Clergy of Lancaster—Return to Baltimore, lighted by - a fire. - - -Whilst the citizens of the United States were exhausting every means to -prove their grateful recollections of the ancient friend of their -fathers, of their country, and of their institutions, France was not -indifferent to the honours rendered to one of her sons on a distant -shore. By means of her writers, her poets and her orators, she united -her voice to that of republican America, to celebrate the principal -circumstances of this triumph, honourable alike to the two nations. It -was by means of one of the public journals,[21] printed at Paris and -transmitted to the United States, that Mr. Keratry, inspired by the -solemnity of Bunker’s hill, expressed the aspirations and sentiments of -every friend of liberty in France:— - -“Nations acquit themselves of a sacred debt in honouring the memories of -their great citizens; but even by that they perform also an act of -personal preservation, since nothing can better excite a generous -patriotic devotion than the certainty secured to its author, of escaping -oblivion. - -“There is in fact, in the acclamations of public gratitude, something -inspiring and almost contagious, which snatches man from himself, and -the interests of daily life. We sacrifice this life to assure ourselves -of another more brilliant and enduring. If told that these plaudits -should be decreed to frigid ashes, one would feel himself revived to -participate in this futurity of glory; and by a miracle of patriotism, -the general safety of a country results from all the sacrifices of -individuals. - -“Nations capable of these sacrifices, even while endeavouring to throw -off a yoke of oppression, the inevitable tendency of which is to degrade -our species, wherever it is submitted to, were never without virtue. We -are entirely convinced, that as God judges men individually, by their -earthly conduct, in a future state, he pronounces also collectively on -nations here below according to their sum of merit, and this is the -providential justice of the present economy. According as he weighs -them, they prosper or they perish! Thus have colonies become -empires—thus have empires been swept away. - -“Inhabitants of North America! citizens of an enfranchised world! behold -what has permitted you to become embodied and constitute a nation; see -what has guaranteed to you a perpetuity of ennobled existence! Your -nobility is produced by your habits of laborious exertion, and by your -domestic virtues. These virtues exist amongst you: where women are -chaste, men are brave; where religion is the free and spontaneous motion -of the creature toward the Creator, and is not transformed into a -political lever of worldly interests, salutary faith presides over -social order, and nerves the soul. You have had a Franklin, a -Washington, a Samuel Adams, a Jefferson: if needed, you will find -others. The tree abounds in sap, why then shall it not produce new -fruits? Your prosperity no longer excites my astonishment; it is in the -nature of things both human and divine. - -“You do well, however, in enhancing the renown of these supporters of -your liberty; and in raising monuments worthy of those who died in -insuring it. The great citizen, who in 1765 was one of the founders of -the noble conspiracy in Boston, so influential on your destinies; he who -was on two memorable occasions commissioned by that city, to console, by -his eloquence, the shades of your illustrious compatriots, massacred the -2d of March, 1770; he who in 1775 assisted you to win the brilliant -auguries of the battle of Lexington, and who fell by a mortal blow at -Breed’s Hill, in the second engagement of your struggle for -independence, Dr. Warren, merited from yourselves and from your -children, a peculiar distinction. - -“It was perhaps sufficient for the glory of this gallant patriot, whose -virtue was attested by the sorrow of his most decided enemies, and to -whose courage the entrenched earth yet bears witness, which received -with his blood his last drawn sigh: it was sufficient I say, that his -collected remains should have found an honourable sepulture in the bosom -of that city whose liberty he was so desirous to behold accomplished. -You have decreed more than this for his heroic companions in arms. Men -of North America, I congratulate you that the services of the brave -remain vivid in your memories: for it were the extreme of rashness, to -expect aught for the future of nations that forget the past, by which -they were established and by which they exist. There are in you the -elements of vigour, and you well know how to cherish them. You have -desired that the hand of one of the earliest defenders of your liberty -might assist you to complete the pious duty. Already have our -imaginations and our eyes followed to the tomb of Washington, this aged -soldier celebrated in the annals of two nations; nor can I believe that -the sun ever shone on a more noble spectacle on this earth. Let us -accompany, him yet farther, when on the 17th of the next month, he -united with you in founding the monument built by the citizens of Boston -to the memory of the brave of Bunker’s hill: fully worthy, indeed, to -solemnize with you this great obligation, his views no doubt were -directed toward his own country, whilst assisting you in the discharge -of your country’s debt. He shall intercede by his prayers for us, and -perhaps without envying the happy situation you owe to the civil and -military talents of your citizens, he will humbly ask of Providence why -those happy days seem to have been withdrawn from France, the dawn of -which she once beheld. No! in his grief he will be silent, lest the -tombstone, and the sacred bones which it protects, should render him a -reply too severe for us, inhabitants of ancient Europe, where, -pretensions to liberty are made without sacrifices, and to happiness -without virtue! - -“Happy nation! in thy calendars are found no victories but those which -established thy independence. Nor dost thou desire others, unless a -noble sentiment should dictate to thee to be interested in the cause of -men oppressed by one of the hemispheres; for thou hast been oppressed, -and has received succour. - -“Permit no one of thy citizens to become great with a greatness which -would be too personal to him, or which would disparage his compeers: for -a nation should not become a pedestal. - -“Grant no distinctions to the living which they have not merited by -their achievements; nor to the dead, such as would retard the excellence -about to arise in competition with the past; for the transmission of -hereditary glory is the act of an unwise people, who alienate their -posterity to the advantage of strangers. - -“Simple citizens of another state! I feel encouraged to send you this -address across the sea, whose waves separate us; but my spirit has -wished to commune with yours, and I have believed that the counsel of a -native son of France who rejoices in your fortunes, would not find a -haughty and disdainful reception, even at the moment when one of his own -countrymen is receiving the honours of your gratitude. That man to whom -is accorded the privilege of beholding himself honoured as posterity -will honour similarly great men, is preparing for a return to his native -shore: you know his heart went in search of the great and the happy of -the age, but that to him the cause of the just will ever be the good -cause, whether in triumph or defeat. Blow auspicious, then, ye winds. -Laden with gifts as in ancient days, crowned with flowers gathered by -the hands of your beauteous virgins and of their virtuous mothers, may -he speedily regain his fire-side! Soon may he be restored to expectant, -welcome embrace! Detain no longer the noble visitant on your shores! You -are rich enough in citizens. I shall not assent that they yet enrol -themselves amongst us, for it is permitted to no one to speak evil of -his country; but when the weak feel their own weaknesses and fears, the -presence of the strong is the more important.” - -Governed by the feeling of his duties as a citizen, and by his -affections as the head of a numerous family, General Lafayette required -not the expression of these emanations of friendship to insure his -speedy return to France: nevertheless it was not without the kindest -emotions that they penetrated his bosom. This demonstration of his -countrymen’s continued affection contributed to mitigate the sacrifice -he felt himself bound in duty to make, in rejecting the entreaties of -the citizens of the United States, who universally and simultaneously -begged he would fix his residence amongst them. - -The intention of the general was, to re-embark previous to the return of -the inclement season, but before quitting the American soil, he wished -to fulfil some engagements which he had made in different places; to -pass some time at the seat of the general government of the Union, and -to make a final visit to the ex-presidents, in their retirement in -Virginia. We were now in the middle of July, and there remained less -than two months for the execution of these designs, and he hastened -immediately to reach Pennsylvania. He passed rapidly through New Jersey, -surrounded by the customary demonstrations of the veneration of the -people. I shall not speak of the entertainments offered him by the -inhabitants of the towns he passed through, nor of his second visit to -Joseph Bonaparte, on his journey to Bordentown, where we had the -pleasure of meeting again, Colonel Achille Murat, who had just returned -from an interview with his brother, recently arrived from Spain. But we -shall pause an instant longer in Philadelphia, to visit the Water Works, -and attend the celebration festival with which the citizens particularly -engaged in these works desired to honour the nation’s guest. - -We had visited, during our first stay in Philadelphia, the fine -machinery established on the Schuylkill, for the supplying of water to a -population of one hundred and twenty thousand persons, and we had been -struck with the simplicity of its mechanism, its admirable force, the -elegance and good taste of the building prepared for its protection; -however, being then pressed with other engagements, we but slightly -glanced at its general aspect, without entering into the examination of -details, and it was to supply this defect of our information that we -returned hither a second time with the committee entrusted with the -superintendence of the expenses of the establishment. - -The tide in the Delaware extending far above Philadelphia, it followed -that its inhabitants could not employ the water of that stream for -culinary purposes, and heretofore they had no supply of potable water -but that which was furnished by some cisterns, which became exhausted -during the great dryness of the summer, or furnishing but an unwholesome -beverage, a great number of diseases ensued. The rapid growth of the -population soon rendered indispensable the supply of water of a better -quality, and in larger quantity. One pump wrought by steam power was -established on the border of the Schuylkill. The expense of maintaining -this pump in operation was very great, and its power insufficient, being -the only resource for the supply of a population of more than eighty -thousand souls at the end of the year 1818, at which time the watering -committee, composed of citizens distinguished for their skill and their -zeal in the public service, began to devise means for substituting, in -place of the old machinery, other works at once more suited to the -increasing demands of the city, more economical in their structure and -in the cost of continuing them in operation. Fair Mount, on the left -bank of the Schuylkill, seemed the point most favourable for the -execution of the views of the committee. The Schuylkill Navigation -Company having permitted the damming of the river to obtain a fall of -water, on condition that a canal with locks should be constructed at the -expense of the city, on the right bank of the river, in order that the -navigation should not be interrupted; and Messrs. White and Gillingham -having consented to yield, for one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, -their rights in the water courses, the committee, freed from every -obstacle, submitted their plans to the city councils, who approved them, -and voted the sum of three hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the -commencement of their execution. - -The labour was commenced the 19th of April, 1819, under the direction of -Ariel Cooley, engineer, and was completed in four years. At the sight of -the canals it was found necessary to open, the immense piers and -embankments that had to be raised, the reservoirs which must be -excavated to a great depth in the solid rocks, it is almost -inconceivable that so many things could be achieved in so short a time. -Money, it is true, was not withheld, but money is not always sufficient, -we well know amongst us, for the accomplishment of great affairs; to act -well and promptly, we must have agents of promptness and ability, and at -the same time animated with honest zeal for the public welfare: such was -Cooley, who unfortunately forfeited his life in consequence of his -activity in the accomplishment of his duties. Incessantly exposed either -to the heat of the sun or to the freshness of the nights, he contracted -a fatal disease, which did not permit him to enjoy the fruits of his -labour. Philadelphia, to this day, regrets in him a good citizen, an -accomplished and disinterested artist. - -As we have now seen them, the Water works at Fairmount can abundantly -supply the demands of the city, and afford to the friends of the useful -arts a monument worthy of their attention. The building that encloses -the machinery, is constructed of stone of a brilliant whiteness. It is -two hundred feet in length and fifty in breadth, and built in the Doric -order of architecture. The interior section is divided into twelve solid -vaulted apartments, designed for the reception of eight forcing pumps, -to be put in operation by wheels of fourteen feet in diameter, and -fourteen feet in length. Each extremity of the building is terminated by -a pavilion of the same order of architecture, the one serving for the -meetings of the watering committee, the other appropriated to the -superintendent of the establishment. Of the eight pumps there are yet -but three in operation, and by these alone there are carried into the -reservoir of distribution, which is more than a hundred feet above the -level of the river, nearly five millions of gallons of water in -twenty-four hours. Each wheel performs thirteen revolutions per minute; -they are formed with buckets perpendicular to the circumference, and -revolve with surprising regularity. Their construction is due to the -talents of Mr. Drury Bromley, who in this circumstance has forfeited no -part of his reputation as an able mechanician. - -The pumps are from the establishment of Messrs. Rush and Muhlenburg; -they are castings of sixteen inches diameter, and are placed -horizontally after the plan of Mr. Graff. Their play is so simple and so -easy, that when they are in motion neither the smallest noise nor -friction can be observed. Throughout all the parts of this admirable -monument of American industry have been executed with the same care, and -it is impossible to visit it without a strong excitement of admiration -for all the individuals who have contributed to its design and -completion. Mr. John Moore, mason, and Mr. Frederick Erdman, carpenter, -have an equal share of honour with their collaborators; nor does any one -omit a just tribute of praise to the precision in the calculations of -Mr. Thomas Oaks, respecting the estimate and the application of the -forces requisite to obtain, with the least possible expense, the most -advantageous results. The total sum of expenditure, made in the -construction of this establishment, amounts to four hundred and -twenty-six thousand three hundred and thirty dollars, the interest of -which at five per cent, is twenty-one thousand three hundred and sixteen -dollars. The annual expense for salaries of workmen, repairs of -machinery, fuel, oil, &c. is only fifteen hundred dollars, which added -to the interest makes a total sum of only twenty-two thousand eight -hundred and sixteen dollars, for distributing in the city of -Philadelphia, almost five millions of gallons of water every twenty-four -hours. The original steam engine could not supply more than one million -six hundred thousand gallons of water, in twenty-four hours, and cost -annually thirty-thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight dollars: and in -order to obtain, by steam power, a daily supply of five millions of -gallons, it would have required an annual expense of at least sixty-one -thousand seven hundred and sixteen dollars. Thence there has been -secured, by the introduction of the new machinery, an annual saving of -thirty-eight thousand nine hundred dollars. To this great improvement -must likewise be added many other equally important advantages, such as -the healthfulness of the city, its great security against the ravages of -fire, the embellishment of public places by abundant fountains, the -opportunity afforded to every inhabitant of supplying his residence with -water, at the moderate price of five dollars a year, and the facility of -establishing in the city various factories, &c. by the aid of water -power. - -All these details were received with a lively interest by General -Lafayette, who expressed his satisfaction and admiration, saying that -the water works at Fair Mount appeared to him the perfect representation -of the American government, in which were combined simplicity, power and -economy. Just as we were leaving this interesting spot, Mr. Lewis, as -president, and in behalf of the committee, presented the general a mode -of the machinery, and a vertical section of the building perfectly -executed in mahogany. He received it thankfully, and assured Mr. Lewis -that he would have sincere pleasure in exhibiting to his friends in -Europe, this evidence of the perfection of mechanic arts in the United -States. - -Although, during the whole period of our second visit to Philadelphia, -the heat was excessive, so that Fahrenheit’s thermometer was generally -at the 98th degree, and rose sometimes to 104°, General Lafayette was -not the less assiduous in employing every day either in uniting with his -friends in the festivities to which he was invited, or in visiting the -environs of the city, nor did his health sustain one moment’s -unfavourable impression. - -It was the 20th of June that we went to visit the field of battle at -Germantown and the mansion of Mr. Chew, on the walls of which may yet be -discovered traces of the cannon and musket balls, proving the prominence -of its situation in the battle that raged around it. After having -breakfasted with Mr. Benjamin Chew, the proprietor of this historic -mansion, the general continued his route to Chesnut Hill, in sight of -Barren Hill, where on the 20th of May, 1778, he effected so happily and -so successfully the famous retreat which laid the foundation of his fame -in military tactics: thence he returned to Germantown, to pass a short -time with the inhabitants, who anxiously requested he would visit their -academy, at which he was received by the students with enthusiasm. We -found amongst them the young Fernando Bolivar, adopted son of the -Liberator. General Lafayette spoke to him with pleasure of the hopes -which the friends of liberty and humanity repose in the character of his -uncle, who, until the present moment, had advanced with a firm pace in -the career pursued by Washington; the young man seemed penetrated with -grateful emotions, and expressed himself in such a manner as to excite a -hope, that his having been sent to the United States to study her -political institutions would not be without permanent benefit. - -As we were leaving Germantown, Mr. John F. Watson offered for the -acceptance of the general a present of great value, on account of the -recollections it awakened. It was a box formed of many pieces of -different kinds of wood, the origin and history of which he thus -recited: - -“The body of the box is made of a piece of black walnut, an ancient son -of the forest, that once occupied the spot where Philadelphia now -stands. Cotemporary with the trees which lent their shade to William -Penn and his companions, it continued till 1818, spreading its noble -branches in view of the hall in which our declaration of independence -was ratified. - -“The cover is composed of four different pieces. - -“The first is of a branch of a forest tree, the last surviving of those -which were removed in order to dig the first foundations of -Philadelphia. - -“The vigour that yet animates the vegetation of this ancient tree, is an -evidence of the rapid growth of the city, which has risen and become -great whilst the tree is still flourishing. - -“The second is a piece of oak, broken off the first bridge built in -1683, over the little river Canard. This piece was found in 1823 at -about six feet below the surface of the earth. - -“The third is a piece of the famous elm under which Penn’s first treaty -with Shackamaxum was made. It fell from old age in 1810, but a branch -from it is now growing, and in a flourishing state, in the garden of the -hospital, and our fellow citizens delight to recount the story of its -origin whilst protected by its shade. - -“The fourth awakens recollections of yet more olden time. It is a -fragment of the first house raised by European hands upon the American -shores! It is a piece of mahogany of the habitation constructed and -occupied in 1496, by the immortal Columbus. Honour to the Haytien -government, which still watches with care for the preservation of this -precious monument. - -“I offer you these reliques with confidence,” continued Mr. Watson, -“persuaded, as I am, that it is with interest you receive every thing -connected with the remembrance of the first movements of a nation that -has received so many proofs of your friendship.” - -General Lafayette was, indeed, highly flattered by Mr. Watson’s present. -He received it with gratitude, and a pledge that it should find a place -amongst the most precious memorials of his tour. To this first present -Mr. Watson added also another not less valuable; a piece of the American -frigate “Alliance,” in which Lafayette had twice crossed the ocean -during the revolutionary war. - -On the 21st, we went to spend the day in the _state_ of Schuylkill. But -before speaking of the honours conferred there on the voyager, a few -words of explanation of this “state,” will be requisite. “In 1731 some -citizens of Philadelphia united themselves into an association having -both pleasure and beneficence for its design. They purchased a large -tract of land near the falls of the Schuylkill, built a house for the -accommodation of their meetings, elected a governor, council, secretary -of state, treasurer, and judge, established a seal, and constituted -themselves the ‘Colony of the Schuylkill.’ More than half a century -passed away without the slightest circumstance transpiring to give -occasion of trouble to the colony: every day was marked by its -benefactions, and delight and mutual confidence presided at all the -periodical festivals, at which the members were assembled at a common -table. But subject to the destiny of states, all of which have their -vicissitudes, the colony of Schuylkill was also to experience a -revolution. In 1783, at the conclusion of a dinner of more than fifty -covers, the colony rose and declared independence: resolved to revise -their constitution, and the Colony of the Schuylkill became, in the -course of a few hours, the ‘republic of the State of Schuylkill,’ and no -attempt was made on the part of the mother country to oppose it. Since -that time the new republic has gone on advancing in strength and riches; -its pleasures and its acts of benevolence followed at an equal rate. -Possessed now of an enlarged estate acquired by a treaty with a farmer, -she has transferred her seat of government, that is, her nets, her -kitchen and cellar, three miles farther down the stream, under the cool -shades on the banks of the river.” - -Here it was that General Lafayette was received by the citizens and -magistrates, who in the costume of fishermen, awaited his arrival on the -frontier of their state. In a short and eloquent address, the secretary -of state recounted to him the history of the republic, from its -establishment to the present time, and concluded by announcing to him -that the title and all the rights of citizen had been granted to him by -a unanimous vote. As soon as the general had expressed his acceptance of -the honour and his gratitude, he was invested with the national costume, -and, his head being protected with the large straw hat, he entered into -the occupations of the community. Mr. George Lafayette, Mr. de Syon, and -myself, were also admitted to partake of the duties of the day; people -and magistrates, all with one accord, assisted without distinction in -the work. We embarked in the batteaux belonging to the republic, and -obtained an abundant supply of fish, and in four hours we were seated at -the banquet prepared by our own hands. Never was a repast attended with -greater gaiety, nor cheered by better wine, and long shall we have the -pleasure of remembering the delight and good cheer we found in the state -of Schuylkill. - -The week we had just spent in Philadelphia, as it were in his own -family, had entirely composed the fatigue of the general; and although -the heat continued excessive, he undertook, on the 25th, his journey to -Wilmington, where a great number of Pennsylvanians and Virginians were -in waiting to conduct him to the field of the battle of Brandywine. This -field was not rendered illustrious by a victory, as has been said, but -its remembrance is not less dear to Americans, who gratefully recollect -the blood spilled there by their fathers, and by young Lafayette, in the -defence of their rights, and to secure their independence. Happy that -country in which events are appreciated more by their influence on its -destinies than by the eclat of the moment! The men who took the first -steps in procuring the liberties of the United States in the battles of -Bunker’s hill and on the banks of the Brandywine, are at this day not -less honoured in the eyes of the nation than those who sealed it last, -at the battle of Yorktown. - -In the beginning of September, 1777, General Howe, at the head of -eighteen thousand men of the British army, embarked on board the fleet -commanded by his brother, and left New York without the possibility of -the Americans ascertaining precisely the object of his expedition. A few -days after it was ascertained that he had entered the Chesapeake, and -had landed at the Head of Elk, for the purpose of marching to attack -Philadelphia, Washington immediately marched through this city, where -the congress were then in session, and advanced to meet the enemy, -annoying him with several attacks between the point of his debarkation -and a small stream, the Brandywine, behind which the American army, -greatly inferior in number, and composed almost wholly of militia, had -just taken their position. Chads-Ford was in front of their encampment, -where it was contemplated to give them battle, but General Howe leaving -a body of troops on the opposite side of the stream, in order to cover -his manœuvre, marched forward to pass another ford on the right of the -Americans. This movement was so much the more difficult to reconnoitre, -as the banks of the stream were densely grown with wood, and, by a -singular fatality, the two parallel roads leading to the two fords were -called by the same name, so that the reports received by Washington from -his scouts, though apparently contradictory, were nevertheless true. -This confusion of names threw the American general into a most painful -anxiety; he hesitated too long on the course he was to pursue, and lost -a most precious moment which might have given him the victory. Had he -been able to procure definite intelligence of the movements of the -enemy, he would have passed the ford before him, and most certainly -would have defeated the British division which remained at Chads-Ford, -commanded by Knyphauzen, and then falling suddenly on the body under -General Howe, surprising him by an attack in flank, would almost -inevitably have succeeded in a complete defeat of the English army; but -the occasion passed rapidly, and the firing of muskets on his right soon -apprized Washington of the danger of his situation. Happily he had -established a position behind the second ford, of three brigades, -commanded by Sullivan and Sterling. These three brigades sustained the -attack with vigour, and for a short time arrested the British by a -deadly fire: but their line being attacked both right and left, by -superior forces, the wings gave way. The centre continued its position -firmly, in defiance of the shower of broken brass that was poured in -upon them. But this centre itself at last began to yield, and was about -to beat a retreat, when young Lafayette, notwithstanding his rank of -brevet-major, was yet serving as a simple volunteer near the -commander-in-chief, dismounted from his horse, and went, sword in hand, -to place himself at the head of a company of grenadiers, who, reanimated -by this noble effort, maintained themselves firmly for a few moments. -Soon, however, Lafayette received a shot below the knee, and was obliged -to retire with his grenadiers; but he had already reaped the reward of -his devotedness, for he had procured the opportunity for Washington to -join the division of General Greene, and of recommencing the action in a -second line. Here the fight raged on either side with obstinate -perseverance, and the astonishing spectacle was exhibited of militia -rallying after a first check, and fronting with firm step an enemy -superior in numbers and in discipline. The event of this second contest -was yet doubtful, when suddenly Washington learned that the pass of -Chads-Ford was forced, and that Knyphauzen was about to fall on his left -flank; he immediately resolved to secure a retreat to Chester, where he -arrived with his army the same evening. - -The battle was lost, but the British had paid dear for their victory, -and the moral force of the Americans was augmented even by their defeat. -In this day’s engagement Lafayette had sealed with his blood his -alliance with the principles for which he had crossed the ocean, and -forever secured to himself the gratitude of a nation amongst whom -generous and noble sentiments outlive the ravages of time. - -It was once more to evince their gratitude for their long tried friend, -that the revolutionary soldiers of Pennsylvania and Virginia had now -assembled with their sons to conduct Lafayette to the field of the -battle of Brandywine. We left Chester on the 26th of July, with a -retinue, at the head of which appeared the two oldest revolutionary -officers of the neighbouring counties, Colonel M’Lean and Captain -Anderson. Numerous bodies of militia had preceded us, and were already -gone to take their position at the ancient encampment of the American -army, where may yet be discovered traces of one of the redoubts. It was -about noon when we arrived on the borders of the Brandywine, along which -we were to travel to the point at which, as we had been informed, the -army had passed. But on approaching the stream, General Lafayette cast a -glance on the surrounding country and said, “It cannot be here that we -passed in 1777, it must be a little higher up the stream.” It was in -fact ascertained that the passage had been effected just above the spot -we occupied. This accuracy of observation and vivid recollection excited -in a high degree the admiration of the numerous witnesses. - -At Chads-Ford the general learned that one of his companions in arms, -Gideon Gilpin, under whose roof he had passed the night before the -battle, was now confined to bed by age and infirmity, and despaired of -being able to join his fellow citizens in their testimony of respect to -the general: he went to visit the aged soldier, whom he found surrounded -by his family. Gideon Gilpin, notwithstanding his extreme weakness, -recognized him on his entrance, and proved by tears of grateful and -tender recollection how much this visit tended to the comfort and -soothing of his last moments. - -On arriving at the field of battle, General Lafayette recognised -successively, and pointed out to us himself, all the principal points on -which the two armies had manœuvred and fought on the 11th of September -1777; nor did his recollection wander a single moment. Being arrived at -the spot where the first attack was made, and where he had been wounded, -he paused a moment; his ancient companions pressed around his carriage, -and the militia passed before him, amid the loudest acclamations and the -cry a thousand times re-echoed, “long live Lafayette.” During the whole -of this scene, of profound emotion on his part, and which his modesty -induced him frequently to attempt to abridge, he spoke to those around -him of nothing but the presence of mind evinced by Washington on the -fatal day of the 11th September, and of the courage manifested by the -officers and soldiers in supporting him. But in vain he recalled the -names of the most illustrious chiefs, and attributed to them all the -glory of having saved the army: the reply he received was by pointing -him to the soil on which he had spilled his blood, and the sight of this -indestructible monument exalted to the highest degree the gratitude of -the crowd of spectators who accompanied him. In prolonging our excursion -along the route by which the British had conducted their first attack, -we arrived at the house of Mr. Samuel Jones. It had been for a short -time occupied by General Howe during the battle, and yet retains traces -of the well directed fire of the American artillery. After the elegant -collation with which we were entertained by Mrs. Jones, we had presented -to us various implements and remains of arms found on the field of -battle; and we returned with these precious reliques to West Chester, -where we concluded the day in the enjoyment of festivities prepared by -the inhabitants. - -In the multiplied recitals I have made of the public rejoicings at which -I assisted, during my stay in the United States, it was impossible not -to be struck with the constant association of religious ideas and -patriotic sentiments which so strongly characterise the citizens of this -republic: but what is not less remarkable is, that their religion, free -of practical minutiæ, seems as much an uniform sentiment as their love -of liberty resembles an uniform faith. With them a political orator -never terminates a prepared address without an invocation, or grateful -recognition of divine power; and a minister of the gospel on taking the -pulpit commences, by recalling to the notice of his auditors their -duties as citizens, and their peculiar privileges in living under the -wise institutions of their country. It may also be remarked, that this -union of political morals and theology influences all the actions of the -Americans with a gravity and deep conviction, the charm and tendency of -which are wholly inexpressible. How could any one listen to these simple -and touching invocations without being deeply affected, and without -uniting in their humble and pious acknowledgements? We were about being -seated at the hospitable board prepared by the citizens of West Chester -at the National Hotel, when the president of the day remarked that a -minister of the church was in the company, and invited him to ask a -blessing on the assemblage, which was done in the most affecting manner -by the Rev. William Latta. - -A committee of the citizens of Lancaster having been deputed to escort -General Lafayette from West Chester, he committed himself to their care -on the 27th, after taking leave of a great number of the soldiers of -1776, who could not receive the last adieu of the aged general without -testifying their emotion with tears. - -I have already, I believe, mentioned the remarkable fact, that at the -south, as at the north, and from the east to the west of the United -States, we had met with men of different manners and languages, -submitting for the general good to the same democratic government; -living in harmony, in the enjoyment of domestic happiness and of public -prosperity, under the shield of the same institutions. Having made this -observation, we naturally concluded that neither great wealth nor -diverse habits of the people of this country, are obstacles to the -establishment and the administration of republican government, which is -founded on an equal appreciation of the interests and rights of all. -Nothing perhaps more strongly confirmed General Lafayette in this -opinion, than a view of the city and county of Lancaster, where are -found men from all parts of America and Europe, and of almost every -diversity of religious faith, yet all attached to the wise and excellent -institutions by which they are governed. - -I shall not describe the festivities with which the citizens of -Lancaster entertained the man, who, whilst they received him as a guest, -they most warmly claimed as their friend, though they were not inferior -either in elegance or cordiality to those of the largest cities of the -Union. I shall not, however, pass over in silence, events which by their -nature serve to explain the unity of sentiments and principles which -characterise all classes of the American people. I shall, therefore, -relate the proceedings of the clergy of every denomination in the city -and vicinity, who, at the intelligence of the arrival of the general, -spontaneously collected to unite their patriotic felicitations with -those of the other citizens. Their congratulations were conveyed by the -dean on their behalf, without distinction of sect. If the address were -to be given at length, it would give additional weight to the opinion I -have already advanced respecting the American clergy: but it will -suffice, I trust, to relate a portion of the general’s reply, in which -this opinion is expressed with a strength and precision which leave no -doubt of his convictions. - -“I accept,” replied he, “with sincere gratitude the proofs of kindness -and regard which the clergy of this city and vicinity have voluntarily -accorded to me, and which you, sir, have expressed in so impressive a -manner. In my happy sojourn in this country, I have often had occasion -to remark the veneration which the clergy of every denomination inspire, -whose individual members, apostles of the rights of man, are the -immediate functionaries of a religion founded on the principles of -liberty and equality, and on the principle of elections by the people of -evangelical ministers.” - -On quitting Lancaster, we travelled to Port Deposit, on the shore of the -Susquehanna, where we were met by a deputation from Baltimore, with whom -we embarked, destined for this latter city. On our way we visited -Havre-de-Grace, a small town situated on the Susquehanna, at its -entrance into the Chesapeake. Here we remained several hours, and then -continued our voyage favoured by fine weather, our way being beguiled -also by the pleasures we enjoyed on board. From the deck of our vessel, -we beheld expanded to our view the delightful vallies and the rich hills -of Maryland: the companions of our voyage, pressing around Lafayette, -and designating to him the fields in which, during their struggle for -liberty, he had fought to obtain it: and at short distances on the -shores, groups of the inhabitants attracted by the sounds of national -airs which echoed from our deck, testified, by incessant acclamations, -the delight occasioned by the presence of the adopted son and benefactor -of their country. - -The sun had left the horizon some time ere we arrived at the mouth of -the Patapsco, and it was not till midnight that we touched the wharf at -Baltimore. Though at that advanced and unseasonable hour, a large number -of persons were in waiting for the appearance of our vessel, and on -disembarking General Lafayette found himself surrounded by a crowd of -friends. At the moment of placing his foot on shore, an immense burst of -light suddenly illuminated the port, and looking to the southern quarter -of the city we saw volumes of flame rising almost to the clouds. -Instantly the hollow cry of “fire, fire,” resounded in every street. -Anxious to offer the first assistance, we left the general in care of -two members of the committee, who conducted him directly to the hotel -provided for him, and we ran at our utmost speed toward the scene of -conflagration, but we discovered that we had been outstripped by four -engines, which on our arrival were already in full operation. Other -engines arrived from all quarters, directed by young men, volunteers in -this patriotic employment, and commenced their operations with such -promptness and activity, that, although the fire had originated in a -frame building occupied as a store, the flames were very soon subdued, -and indeed wholly extinguished. We found ourselves involuntarily amidst -the inactive crowd of spectators, and returned to our lodgings at two -o’clock in the morning, filled with admiration of the spontaneous -exertions as well as the zeal and ability of the young firemen of -Baltimore. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - Return to Washington—Character of the new President—Visit to the - ex-president, become a farmer and justice of peace—Government - offers Lafayette a ship of war to return in to France—Presents - made to Bolivar through Lafayette—New homage from the city of - New York—Farewell of the President to the Nation’s - Guest—Departure from Washington city—Embarkation in the - Brandywine—Voyage—Testimonies of attachment and regret of the - crew of the Brandywine to Lafayette—Reception at Havre—Some - hours at Rouen—Reception of Lafayette at La Grange by the - inhabitants of his vicinity. - - -After resting two days at Baltimore we set out for Washington city. -General Lafayette wished to depart privately, and the citizens, always -solicitous to satisfy his desires, contented themselves with calling in -the evening to take leave and express their regrets. This circumstance -employed several hours, and left in our hearts impressions of profound -melancholy. We commenced our journey on the 1st of August, accompanied -by two members of the Baltimore committee. A few miles from Washington -we were met by an elegant carriage, which drew up near us, from which a -young gentleman alighted and inquired for General Lafayette. This was -the eldest son of the new president Mr. Adams, who was sent by his -father to the nation’s guest, to inform him that he had solicited and -obtained from the citizens of the metropolis, permission to offer him -the use of the president’s house. The general accepted the invitation -for himself and travelling companions, entered Mr. Adams’s carriage, and -we continued on our route. Our two members of the Baltimore committee -had not anticipated such an occurrence, which threw them into -considerable embarrassment. They had been zealous “Jackson men,” and had -declared themselves strongly against Mr. Adams, during the election; of -this Mr. Adams was not ignorant, and on this occasion it appeared -difficult to them to present themselves under the auspices of General -Lafayette, without exposing themselves to the chance of being thought -willing to make the _amende honorable_. They determined to separate from -our party, on entering the city, and took lodgings in a hotel. - -During the canvass of the presidential election, I had frequently heard -the adversaries of Mr. Adams accuse him of aristocratic habits, -contracted, as they said, in the foreign courts at which he had passed -many years. This accusation appeared to me much opposed to what I had -seen and have related of his conduct in the steam-boat going from -Frenchtown to Baltimore; but, at length, in consequence of hearing the -charge frequently repeated, I began to fear, that, with the exercise of -power, he might fall into what we call in Europe the manners of a -prince; my surprise was therefore the more agreeable, to find, on -reaching Washington, that the president was not changed. It is true, we -found Mr. Adams in the place of Mr. Monroe; but the public man was still -the same. The plainness of the domestics, and facility of access to the -house, appeared not to have undergone the least alteration, and in Mr. -Adams’s reception of us we experienced all the cordiality of his -predecessor. He soon ascertained why our companions had not remained -with us, and hastened to send them an invitation to dinner, which they -accepted without embarrassment or hesitation, as men who understood the -politeness intended them, but who did not consider themselves as being -in any way pledged by accepting it. - -The lodgings prepared for us in his own house by the president were -plain, but commodious and in good taste. Anxious to enable General -Lafayette to enjoy the repose he thought him to need after so many and -such long voyages, and after numerous and profound emotions, he secluded -himself with us in entire privacy. Aided by Mrs. Adams, her two sons, -and two nieces, he made us taste, if I may so express myself, the sweets -of domestic life. During the early portion of our stay, there rarely set -down to table or around the hearth more than two or three persons at -once, and usually these were some public officers who, after being -occupied all day with the president in business, were detained by him to -dinner and the familiar conversation of the evening. It was during this -period which glided away so swiftly, that I could appreciate the -character of Mr. Adams, whom I had previously known only by the eulogies -of his friends or the attacks of opponents. I discovered that the first -had but done him justice, and the last been misled by party spirit. It -is difficult to find a more upright and better cultivated intellect than -is possessed by the successor of Mr. Monroe. The beautiful reliefs of -the capitol, to which he is not a stranger; his treatise on weights and -measures, and the numerous diplomatic missions he has discharged with -distinction, bear witness to his good taste in the arts, the correctness -of his scientific judgment, and his skill in politics. As to the -accusation of aristocracy, which some have preferred against him, it is -sufficiently refuted by his manners, which remain unaltered by his -elevation to the chief magistracy of the republic. - -Notwithstanding that General Lafayette was daily preparing to return to -Europe, before quitting the American soil, he wished once more to see -some of his old Virginia friends, and especially desired again to -embrace and thank him, who, as head of the government, had first -welcomed him to its capital, and who, at present returned to private -life, continued to give his fellow citizens an example of all the -virtues, in cultivating his modest patrimony. The general mentioned the -subject to Mr. Adams, who offered to accompany him on this visit, -saying, “that he would gladly take this occasion to go and present to -his predecessor his tribute of veneration and attachment.” The 6th of -August was the day fixed upon for this visit, and we set out for Oak -Hill, the seat of Mr. Monroe, which is thirty-seven miles from -Washington, unaccompanied by any escort. Mr. Adams took the general and -Mr. George Lafayette, with one of his friends, in his carriage; I rode -in a tilbury with the president’s son. At the Potomac bridge we stopped -to pay the toll, and the gate-keeper, after counting the company and -horses, received the money from the president, and allowed us to pass -on; but we had gone a very short distance, when we heard some one -bawling after us, “Mr. President! Mr. President! you have given -eleven-pence too little!” Presently the gate-keeper arrived out of -breath, holding out the change he had received, and explaining the -mistake made. The president heard him attentively, re-examined the -money, and agreed that he was right, and ought to have another -eleven-pence. Just as the president was taking out his purse, the -gate-keeper recognized General Lafayette in the carriage, and wished to -return his toll, declaring that all gates and bridges were free to the -nation’s guest. Mr. Adams told him, that on this occasion General -Lafayette travelled altogether privately, and not as the nation’s guest, -but simply as a friend of the president, and, therefore, was entitled to -no exemption. With this reasoning, our gate-keeper was satisfied, and -received the money. Thus, during his course of his voyages in the United -States, the general was but once subjected to the common rule of paying, -and it was exactly upon the day in which he travelled with the chief -magistrate; a circumstance which, probably in every other country, would -have conferred the privilege of passing free. - -We did not reach Oak Hill until the morning after we left Washington. We -found the ex-president of the United States, now a farmer, pleasantly -settled with all his family, in a handsome house near his farm. He was -engaged in superintending his agricultural affairs, and endeavouring to -improve his property, which had long been neglected for public business. -Some of Mr. Monroe’s friends had collected to assist him in entertaining -Lafayette. We passed three days in their company, and then the -inhabitants of Leesburg, a small adjacent village, came in company with -the Loudon county militia, to invite the presence of the nation’s guest -at an entertainment prepared for him. The president, ex-president, and -chief justice of the United States, accompanied him, and received their -share of popular attention; but it was easy to perceive that this homage -was inspired by the veneration of their virtues, rather than by any -titles which they possessed. - -After the Leesburg and Loudon county festivals we took leave of Mr. -Monroe to return to Washington. Wishing to make the journey in a single -day, we set out very early, but soon had cause to repent of this -arrangement; about two o’clock the heat became so oppressive, that one -of Mr. Adams’s horses was struck down by apoplexy. The driver in vain -attempted to save its life by copious blood-letting, and in a few -minutes the animal expired in the ditch where it had fallen. As soon as -the accident happened, we all alighted to help the horse, but finding -him dead, we took seats on the grass until a waiter went to the nearest -village for another horse. Travellers were passing us continually, and -cast inquisitive glances upon our group, without once suspecting the -presence of the first magistrate of the republic, or that of the adopted -son of a great nation. Having procured another horse, we resumed our -journey, but the delay caused by this accident prevented our arrival at -Washington until long after sunset, which prevented us visiting the -falls of Potomac, near to where we crossed the river. Although these -falls are of slight elevation, their effect is said to be very fine. - -A few days afterwards we again left the capital to make a last tour in -Virginia. On this occasion we visited Albemarle, Culpepper, Fauquier, -Warrenton and Buckland. Although in all these towns the progress of -Lafayette was marked by popular festivals, he could not avoid feeling -pained by the recollection that in a few days he was about to leave, -perhaps for ever, a country which contained so many objects of his -affection. At Albemarle we were re-joined by Mr. Monroe, whom we now -found invested with a new public character. Faithful to the doctrine -that a citizen should always be entirely at the service of his country, -he did not think that his title of late president of the republic -withheld him from being useful to his countrymen; and he had therefore -accepted the office of justice of the peace, to which he had been -elected by the confidence and suffrages of the people of his county. Mr. -Madison had also left his retreat and re-joined us on the road to -Monticello, whither the general went to take leave of his old friend -Jefferson, whose enfeebled health kept him at present in a state of -painful inaction. The meeting at Monticello, of three men, who, by their -successive elevation to the supreme magistracy of the state, had given -to their country twenty-four years of prosperity and glory, and who -still offered it the example of private virtues, was a sufficiently -strong inducement to make us wish to stay there a longer time; but -indispensable duties recalled General Lafayette to Washington, and he -was obliged to take leave of his friends. I shall not attempt to depict -the sadness which prevailed at this cruel separation, which had none of -the alleviation which is usually left by youth, for in this instance, -the individuals who bade farewell, had all passed through a long career, -and the immensity of the ocean would still add to the difficulties of a -reunion. - -One of Mr. Adams’s first cares on attaining the head of the -administration had been to decide General Lafayette to accept the use of -a public ship for his return to France. This vessel, built in Washington -navy yard, was launched about the end of June, and was to be ready for -sea by the beginning of September, the time fixed upon by General -Lafayette for his departure. “It is customary,” Mr. Adams wrote to him, -“to designate our frigates by the names of rivers of the United States; -to conform to this custom, and make it accord with the desire we have to -perpetuate a name that recalls that glorious event of our revolutionary -war, in which you sealed with your blood your devotion to our -principles, we have given the name of Brandywine to the new frigate, to -which we confide the honourable mission of returning you to the wishes -of your country and family. The command of the Brandywine will be -entrusted to one of the most distinguished officers of our navy, Captain -CHARLES MORRIS, who has orders to land you under the protection of our -flag, in whatever European port you please to designate.” - -This invitation was too honourable, and made with too much delicacy, to -be for an instant refused by General Lafayette; therefore he hastened to -return to Washington to express his gratitude to the president, and -concert with Captain Morris the day of sailing, which was settled for -the 7th of September. When this determination became known, a great -number of persons thronged from the neighbouring cities to take a last -farewell of the nation’s guest; and all the constituted authorities of -the capital determined to take a solemn leave of him. From this time to -the day of our embarkation the general devoted his whole time to the -duties of friendship, and in answering to the invitations of various -cities, which, for want of time and on account of their distance, he had -been unable to visit. - -The fame of Bolivar’s exploits in combating for the liberty and -independence of the South American republics, at this time resounded -through the United States, whose citizens applauded with transport his -republican patriotism, which then was free from all suspicion. Mr. -Custis, the adopted son of Washington, whose ardent spirit is ever ready -to sympathise with all that is great and generous, conceived the thought -of presenting to the Liberator, as a testimonial of his admiration, a -fine portrait of General Washington, and a medal of pure gold, which had -been decreed to the great citizen by the American nation, at the -festival of independence. He thought that these presents, although -sufficiently precious on account of their origin, would acquire a still -greater value by passing through the hands of the veteran of liberty in -the two worlds, and General Lafayette consented with pleasure to the -request made him to be the organ of communication. On the 2d of -September these presents were placed in the hands of M. Villenilla, -member of the Colombian Legation, with a letter for Bolivar, from -Lafayette. - -On the 6th of September, the anniversary of Lafayette’s birth, the -president gave a grand dinner, to which all the public officers, and -numerous distinguished persons then in Washington, were invited. The -company had already assembled and were about to sit down to table, when -the arrival of a deputation from the city of New York was announced, -which came to present to General Lafayette, on behalf of the city -council, a book containing an account of all the transactions and events -occurring during his stay in that city. This magnificent volume, removed -from its case, and exhibited to the company, excited general admiration. -It is in fact a masterpiece that may be compared with the most beautiful -and rich of those manuscripts which formed the glory and reputation of -libraries before the discovery of printing. It contained fifty pages, -each ornamented with vignettes designed and painted with the greatest -skill; views and portraits perfectly executed, completed this work, of -which the writing was done by Mr. Bragg, and the paintings by Messrs. -Burton, Inman, and Cummings. The view of the Capitol at Washington, of -the City Hall of New York, and the portraits of Washington, Lafayette, -and Hamilton, left nothing to be desired; and in order that this -beautiful work should be altogether national, it was upon American -paper, and bound by Mr. Foster of New York with admirable richness and -elegance. - -General Lafayette gratefully accepted this fine present, to which the -president and his cabinet gave additional value by placing their -signatures in it. Although a large company partook of this dinner, and -it was intended to celebrate Lafayette’s birth-day, it was very serious, -I may say, almost sad. We were all too much pre-occupied by the -approaching journey to be joyous: we already felt, by anticipation, the -sorrowfulness of separation. Towards the conclusion of the repast, the -president, contrary to diplomatic custom, which forbids toasts at his -table, arose and proposed the following: “To the 22d of February and 6th -of September, birthdays of Washington and Lafayette.” Profoundly -affected to find his name thus associated with Washington, the general -expressed his thanks to the president, and gave this toast, “To the -fourth of July, the birth-day of liberty in both hemispheres.” - -At last the day which we ardently wished for, and whose approach, -however, filled us with profound sadness, the day which would begin to -convey us towards our country, but must, at the same time, separate us -from a nation which had so many claims to our admiration and affection, -the day of our departure, the 7th of September, dawned radiantly. The -workshops were deserted, the stores were left unopened, and the people -crowded around the president’s mansion, while the militia were drawn up -in a line on the road the nation’s guest was to move to the shore. The -municipality collected about the general to offer him the last homage -and regrets of their fellow citizens. - -At eleven o’clock he left his apartment, slowly passed through the crowd -which silently pressed after him, and entered the principal vestibule of -the presidential dwelling, where the president, surrounded by his -cabinet, various public officers, and principal citizens, had waited for -him a few minutes. He took his place in the centre of the circle which -was formed on his approach; the doors were open, in order that the -people who were assembled without might observe what took place, and the -slight murmur of regrets which were heard at first among the crowd, was -succeeded by a solemn and profound silence; the president, then visibly -agitated by emotion, addressed him as follows, in the name of the -American nation and government:— - - “GENERAL LAFAYETTE—It has been the good fortune of many of my - distinguished fellow-citizens, during the course of the year now - elapsed, upon your arrival at their respective places of abode, to - greet you with the welcome of the nation. The less pleasing task now - devolves upon me, on bidding you, in the name of the nation, adieu. - - “It were no longer seasonable, and would be superfluous, to - recapitulate the remarkable incidents of your early life—incidents - which associated your name, fortunes and reputation, in imperishable - connection with the independence and history of the North American - Union. - - “The part which you performed at that important juncture was marked - with characters so peculiar, that, realizing the fairest fable of - antiquity, its parallel could scarcely be found in the _authentic_ - records of human history. - - “You deliberately and perseveringly preferred toil, danger, the - endurance of every hardship, and the privation of every comfort, in - defence of a holy cause, to inglorious ease, and the allurements of - rank, affluence, and unrestrained youth, at the most splendid and - fascinating court of Europe. - - “That this choice was not less wise than magnanimous, the sanction - of half a century, and the gratulations of unnumbered voices, all - unable to express the gratitude of the heart with which your visit - to this hemisphere has been welcomed, afford ample demonstration. - - “When the contest of freedom, to which you had repaired as a - voluntary champion, had closed, by the complete triumph of her cause - in this country of your adoption, you returned to fulfil the duties - of the philanthropist and patriot in the land of your nativity. - There, in a consistent and undeviating career of forty years, you - have maintained, through every vicissitude of alternate success and - disappointment, the same glorious cause to which the first years of - your active life had been devoted, the improvement of the moral and - political condition of man. - - “Throughout that long succession of time, the people of the United - States, for whom, and with whom you had fought the battles of - liberty, have been living in the full possession of its fruits; one - of the happiest among the family of nations. Spreading in - population; enlarging in territory; acting and suffering according - to the condition of their nature; and laying the foundations of the - greatest, and, we humbly hope, the most beneficent power that ever - regulated the concerns of man upon earth. - - “In that lapse of forty years, the generation of men with whom you - co-operated in the conflict of arms, has nearly passed away. Of the - general officers of the American army in that war, you alone - survive. Of the sages who guided our councils; of the warriors who - met the foe in the field or upon the wave, with the exception of a - few, to whom unusual length of days has been allotted by heaven, all - now sleep with their fathers. A succeeding, and even a third - generation, have arisen to take their places; and their children’s - children, while rising up to call them blessed, have been taught by - them, as well as admonished by their own constant enjoyment of - freedom, to include in every benison upon their fathers, the name of - him who came from afar, with them and in their cause to conquer or - to fall. - - “The universal prevalence of these sentiments was signally - manifested by a resolution of congress, representing the whole - people, and all the states of this Union, requesting the president - of the United States to communicate to you the assurances of - grateful and affectionate attachment of this government and people, - and desiring that a national ship might be employed, at your - convenience, for your passage to the borders of your country. - - “The invitation was transmitted to you by my venerable predecessor; - himself bound to you by the strongest ties of personal friendship, - himself one of those whom the highest honours of his country had - rewarded for blood early shed in her cause, and for a long life of - devotion to her welfare. By him the services of a national ship were - placed at your disposal. Your delicacy preferred a more private - conveyance, and a full year has elapsed since you landed upon our - shores. It were scarcely an exaggeration to say, that it has been, - to the people of the Union, a year of uninterrupted festivity and - enjoyment, inspired by your presence. You have traversed the - twenty-four states of this great confederacy: You have been received - with rapture by the survivors of your earliest companions in arms: - You have been hailed as a long absent parent by their children, the - men and women of the present age: And a rising generation, the hope - of future time, in numbers surpassing the whole population of that - day when you fought at the head and by the side of their - forefathers, have vied with the scanty remnants of that hour of - trial, in acclamations of joy at beholding the face of him whom they - feel to be the common benefactor of all. You have heard the mingled - voices of the past, the present, and the future age, joining in one - universal chorus of delight at your approach; and the shouts of - unbidden thousands, which greeted your landing on the soil of - freedom, have followed every step of your way, and still resound, - like the rushing of many waters, from every corner of our land. - - “You are now about to return to the country of your birth, of your - ancestors, of your posterity. The executive government of the Union, - stimulated by the same feeling which had prompted the congress to - the designation of a national ship for your accommodation in coming - hither, has destined the first service of a frigate, recently - launched at this metropolis, to the less welcome, but equally - distinguished trust, of conveying you home. The name of the ship has - added one more memorial to distant regions and to future ages, of a - stream already memorable, at once in the story of your sufferings - and of our independence. - - “The ship is now prepared for your reception, and equipped for sea. - From the moment of her departure, the prayers of millions will - ascend to heaven that her passage may be prosperous, and your return - to the bosom of your family as propitious to your happiness, as your - visit to this scene of your youthful glory has been to that of the - American people. - - “Go, then, our beloved friend—return to the land of brilliant - genius, of generous sentiment, of heroic valour; to that beautiful - France, the nursing mother of the twelfth Louis, and the fourth - Henry; to the native soil of Bayard and Coligni, of Turenne and - Catinat, of Fenelon and D’Aguesseau. In that illustrious catalogue - of names which she claims as of her children, and with honest pride - holds up to the admiration of other nations, the name of Lafayette - has already for centuries been enrolled. And it shall henceforth - burnish into brighter fame; for if, in after days, a Frenchman shall - be called to indicate the character of his nation by that of one - individual, during the age in which we live, the blood of lofty - patriotism shall mantle in his cheek, the fire of conscious virtue - shall sparkle in his eye, and he shall pronounce the name of - Lafayette. Yet we, too, and our children, in life and after death, - shall claim you for our own. You are ours by that more than - patriotic self-devotion with which you flew to the aid of our - fathers at the crisis of their fate. Ours by that long series of - years in which you have cherished us in your regard. Ours by that - unshaken sentiment of gratitude for your services which is a - precious portion of our inheritance. Ours by that tie of love, - stronger than death, which has linked your name, for the endless - ages of time, with the name of Washington. - - “At the painful moment of parting from you, we take comfort in the - thought, that wherever you may be, to the last pulsation of your - heart, our country will be ever present to your affections; and a - cheering consolation assures us, that we are not called to sorrow - most of all, that we shall see your face no more. We shall indulge - the pleasing anticipation of beholding our friend again. In the mean - time, speaking in the name of the whole people of the United States, - and at a loss only for language to give utterance to that feeling of - attachment with which the heart of the nation beats, as the heart of - one man—I bid you a reluctant and affectionate farewell.” - -An approving murmur drowned the last words of Mr. Adams, and proved how -deeply the auditors sympathised with the noble sentiments he had -expressed in favour of France, and her children whose whole life and -recent triumph would add still more to his glory and exaltation. General -Lafayette, deeply affected with what he heard, was obliged to pause a -few moments before he was able to reply. At last, however, after having -made an effort to regain his voice, he thus expressed himself: - - “Amidst all my obligations to the general government, and - particularly to you, sir, its respected chief magistrate, I have - most thankfully to acknowledge the opportunity given me, at this - solemn and painful moment, to present the people of the United - States with a parting tribute of profound, inexpressible gratitude. - - “To have been, in the infant and critical days of these states, - adopted by them as a favourite son, to have participated in the - toils and perils of our unspotted struggle for independence, freedom - and equal rights, and in the foundation of the American era of a new - social order, which has already pervaded this, and must, for the - dignity and happiness of mankind, successively pervade every part of - the other hemisphere, to have received at every stage of the - revolution, and during forty years after that period, from the - people of the United States, and their representatives at home and - abroad, continual marks of their confidence and kindness, has been - the pride, the encouragement, the support of a long and eventful - life. - - “But how could I find words to acknowledge that series of welcomes, - those unbounded and universal displays of public affection, which - have marked each step, each hour, of a twelve-months’ progress - through the twenty-four states, and which, while they overwhelm my - heart with grateful delight, have most satisfactorily evinced the - concurrence of the people in the kind testimonies, in the immense - favours bestowed on me by the several branches of their - representatives, in every part and at the central seat of the - confederacy? - - “Yet, gratifications still higher await me; in the wonders of - creation and improvement that have met my enchanted eye, in the - unparalleled and self-felt happiness of the people, in their rapid - prosperity and insured security, public and private, in a practice - of good order, the appendage of true freedom, and a national good - sense, the final arbiter of all difficulties, I have had proudly to - recognise a result of the republican principles for which we have - fought, and a glorious demonstration to the most timid and - prejudiced minds, of the superiority, over degrading aristocracy or - despotism, of popular institutions founded on the plain rights of - man, and where the local rights of every section are preserved under - a constitutional bond of union. The cherishing of that union between - the states, as it has been the farewell entreaty of our great - paternal Washington, and will ever have the dying prayer of every - American patriot, so it has become the sacred pledge of the - emancipation of the world, an object in which I am happy to observe - that the American people, while they give the animating example of - successful free institutions, in return for an evil entailed upon - them by Europe, and of which a liberal and enlightened sense is - every where more and more generally felt, show themselves every day - more anxiously interested. - - “And now, sir, how can I do justice to my deep and lively feelings - for the assurances, most peculiarly valued, of your esteem and - friendship, for your so very kind references to old times, to my - beloved associates, to the vicissitudes of my life, for your - affecting picture of the blessings poured by the several generations - of the American people on the remaining days of a delighted veteran, - for your affectionate remarks on this sad hour of separation, on the - country of my birth, full, I can say, of American sympathies, on the - hope so necessary to me of my seeing again the country that has - designed, near a half century ago, to call me hers? I shall content - myself, refraining from superfluous repetitions, at once, before - you, sir, and this respected circle, to proclaim my cordial - confirmation of every one of the sentiments which I have had daily - opportunities publicly to utter, from the time when your venerable - predecessor, my old brother in arms and friend, transmitted to me - the honourable invitation of congress, to this day, when you, my - dear sir, whose friendly connection with me dates from your earliest - youth, are going to consign me to the protection, across the - Atlantic, of the heroic national flag, on board the splendid ship, - the name of which has been not the least flattering and kind among - the numberless favours conferred upon me. - - “God bless you, sir, and all who surround us. God bless the American - people, each of their states, and the federal government. Accept - this patriotic farewell of an overflowing heart; such will be its - last throb when it ceases to beat.” - -In pronouncing these last words, General Lafayette felt his emotion to -be rapidly increasing, and threw himself into the arms of the president, -who mingled his tears with those of the national guest, in repeating -those heart-rending words, Adieu! Adieu! The spectators, overcome by the -same feelings, also shed tears and surrounded their friend, once more to -take him by the hand. To abridge this scene, which could not be suffered -much longer, the general retired for a short time into his own -apartment, where Mrs. Adams surrounded by her daughters and nieces came -to express their wishes and regrets. On the evening before, this lady, -whose cultivated mind and amenity of character had greatly contributed -to the pleasure of our visit to the president’s house, had presented him -with a fine bust of her husband, and had added to this present a copy of -verses in French, whose charm and elegance proved that this was not the -first occasion in which her muse had spoken in our language. - -Detained as if by a magic spell, General Lafayette could not make up his -mind to leave his friends; a thousand pretexts seemed to retard the -definitive moment of separation, but at last the first of the -twenty-four guns, which announced his departure, having been heard, he -again threw himself into Mr. Adams’s arms, expressed to him his last -good wishes for the American nation, and retired to his carriage. The -president repeated the signal of adieu from the top of the steps, and at -this sign the colours of the troops which were drawn up before the -president’s house were bowed to the earth. - -Accompanied by the secretaries of state, treasury, and navy, the general -proceeded to the banks of the Potomac, where the steam-boat Mount Vernon -was waiting for him. On a level above the river, were all the militia of -Alexandria, Georgetown, and Washington, drawn up in solid columns, -waiting to defile before the general. In advance of the troops were the -magistrates of the three cities, at the head of their fellow citizens, -to whom numbers of strangers had joined themselves. When the general -arrived at a point from whence he could embrace this scene at a glance, -the family of General Washington and the principal officers of -government, ranged themselves around him, when all the different masses -of men who had hitherto been so motionless, moved on to the sound of -artillery, and advanced melancholy and silent to receive his last adieu. -When the different corps had passed, the general took leave of all the -friends that surrounded him, and went on board of the Mount Vernon, with -the secretary of the navy and those officers of government who were to -accompany him on board of the Brandywine. - -During this time, the innumerable crowd which lined the shores of the -Potomac for a great distance, governed by a painful feeling of sorrow -produced by his departure, remained in the most profound silence; but -when the steam-boat had pushed off with the object of their affections, -they gave vent to a mournful cry, which, repeated from echo to echo, was -finally mingled with the deep sound of the artillery of fort Washington. -A few moments afterwards we passed Alexandria, and the general received -the same marks of regret from the population of that city. But it was -when he came in view of Mount Vernon, that he felt most deeply affected, -and experienced the great sacrifice he made to his country in leaving -the American soil, that hospitable, land, where every step he made was -accompanied with heartfelt recollections. - -In a few hours we reached the Brandywine, which was anchored at the -mouth of the Potomac, where she only awaited our arrival to set sail. -The general was received on board with the greatest honours, the yards -were manned, the gunners at their posts, and the marines drawn up on -deck. Of the whole company that had attended us from Washington, the -secretary of the navy, Mr. Southard, alone went on board the Brandywine -with the general, to present and recommend him to the care of Commodore -Morris in the name of the American nation and its government. We had -experienced so many marks of kindness from Mr. Southard, that it was -with real grief that we took leave of him. As soon as he had received -our last farewells, he returned on board the Mount Vernon, and our -commander gave orders to weigh anchor; but at this moment another -steam-boat appeared in sight, which apparently wished to speak to us; we -soon recognised her as the Constitution, which had arrived from -Baltimore, carrying a great number of the inhabitants of that city, who -desired once more to see General Lafayette, and to express to him the -good wishes of their fellow-citizens, as well as their own. We -experienced great pleasure in observing among them a majority of those -with whom we were most intimate in our different visits to Baltimore. -Their presence, at this time, in recalling to our minds the happy time -we spent with them, made us forget, for a moment, that we had already -left the American soil, perhaps for ever, and our illusion was prolonged -until the evening gun announced that all communication between us must -cease. - -The night was now too far advanced to get under sail, and Commodore -Morris waited till next day to weigh anchor. It was the 8th of December -we entered the Chesapeake under full sail, traversing the centre of a -brilliant rainbow, one of whose limbs appeared to rest on the Maryland -shore, and the other on that of Virginia. Thus the same sign that -appeared in the heavens on the day on which Lafayette landed on the -American soil, also appeared when he left it, as if nature had reserved -to herself the erection of the first and the last of the numerous -triumphal arches dedicated to him during his extraordinary journey.[22] - -The wind blowing brisk and favourable, we soon passed the capes of -Virginia, and were in a short time out at sea. It was then only that our -captain, disengaged from the care a difficult navigation, near the shore -always induces, made us more particularly acquainted with his officers -and our new abode. From the character of the former and commodious -arrangement of the latter, it was readily perceived that the American -government had neglected nothing that could contribute to the safety or -comfort of Lafayette’s return to his own country. The captain announced -to the general, that the last instructions he had received from the -president, was to put himself entirely at the general’s disposal, and to -conduct him to any part of Europe that he might designate, and to land -him under the protection of the American flag; hence, that he must from -that moment consider himself as absolute master, and to be assured that -his orders would be executed with the greatest readiness. The general -was deeply affected but not surprised at this fresh instance of kindness -in the American government, and declared to the captain, that the only -use he should make of these honourable prerogatives would be a passage -to Havre. Two motives, added he, make me desirous of reentering France -by that city; my family will be there to receive me, and my heart feels -a strong desire to present myself, in the first instance, to those who -received my farewell with such kindness, when I last year left my -country. - -The wind blew so violently, that in forty-eight hours from our leaving -Chesapeake bay, we were in the Gulf stream, whose waves, opposed by the -wind, made us experience all the agonies of rolling and pitching -horribly combined. Added to the sea-sickness which attacked nearly all -of us, another source of anxiety arose. The frigate leaked without it -being discovered at what place; the pumps, in spite of their constant -employment, could not keep the vessel clear, and some persons already -regretted we were so far from the land, but our captain and his crew -were not to be intimidated so easily. After a close examination of our -situation, Captain Morris was of opinion that the vessel was too deep in -the water, and should be lighted; he therefore had 32,000 weight of -iron, part of his ballast, thrown overboard. This operation which was -performed in a few hours, remedied every inconvenience. The frigate -being lighter was in better trim, and in rising some inches more above -the surface of the water, discovered the leak, which was just under the -water-mark: from this moment the danger, which had never been serious, -entirely disappeared, and our voyage was accomplished without the -slightest anxiety. - -As the president had told the general, in offering him the use of the -Brandywine to carry him to France, we had for commander one of the most -distinguished officers in the American navy. During his youth, Captain -Morris had distinguished himself in several engagements before Algiers, -under the command of Commodore Rogers. At a later period, during the -last war with Great Britain, he had added to his reputation, from his -skill in manœuvring his vessel, in the presence of an overwhelming -force; and his comrades generally attributed to him a great part of the -glory of the victory of the Constitution over the Guerriere, who, proud -of her formidable artillery and the experience of her numerous crew, had -sent a challenge to any American vessel, that had the courage to meet -her, and seemed to wait with impatience for some one to accept her -defiance, when the Constitution appeared and soon made her repent of her -presumption. - -The officers who served under the orders of Captain Morris, on board of -the Brandywine, had also distinguished themselves in the last war, and -each could boast of having added to the glory of the American navy, by -his own gallant deeds. I regret that I cannot record all their names, -and some of the actions by which they merited the gratitude of their -country, and the esteem of their fellow-citizens; but such details would -lead me far beyond all due bounds, and I hope that my silence will be -taken rather as a proof of my incapacity to act as their historian, than -as a proof of my indifference to men, whose society was so delightful to -us, during a voyage which would have appeared very short, if we had not -been returning to our own country. - -The government of the United States has no theoretical school for her -marine officers, but each national vessel, when going on service, -receives on board a certain number of midshipmen, and thus forms a -practical school at little expense as to money, and attended with the -happiest results. When it was rumoured, that the Brandywine was destined -to conduct Lafayette back to France, all those parents who intended -their children for the navy, were ambitious to obtain them a birth on -board of this frigate, and the president found himself beset with -petitions from all parts of the Union. Not being able to satisfy all, -but at the same time wishing to amalgamate, as much as possible, private -interests with public good, he decided that each state should be -represented by a midshipman, and hence the Brandywine had on board -twenty-four, instead of eight or ten, as is usual in vessels of her -size. It was gratifying to the general, thus to find himself surrounded -by these young representatives of the republics he had visited with so -much pleasure, not only as their presence recalled spots he loved, but -also as some of them, being sons of old revolutionary soldiers, gave him -an opportunity of speaking of his former companions in arms; and the -young men, on their part, proud of the mission they were engaged in, -endeavoured to render themselves worthy of it, by strict attention to -study, and the performance of their duties. The paternal friendship -testified towards them by the general, during the voyage, so completely -gained their affection, that they could not separate from him without -shedding tears. They begged that he would permit them, to offer him a -durable mark of their filial attachment, that would also recall to his -mind the days passed with them on board the Brandywine.[23] - -The wind continued strong during the whole passage, but was very -variable, thus rendering our voyage unpleasant. Nevertheless, in spite -of their inconstancy, Captain Morris found means to make us advance -rapidly; and on the 3d of October we arrived in sight of the coast of -Havre, in twenty-four days after leaving the Chesapeake. This passage -ought to be considered as very short, particularly when it is considered -that it was our vessel’s first voyage, and consequently that she -required to be studied with greater care by those who navigated her. - -I will not speak of the feelings that agitated us at the sight of our -country. There are few who have not experienced them on again seeing -their native land, even after a short absence; and to those who have -never known the torments of absence, or the sweet emotions of a return, -I fear that my words would appear exaggerated or ridiculous. - -As there was a great swell, and the wind variable, the captain would not -hazard the frigate by approaching too near land in the night; he -therefore sent one of his officers to Havre for a pilot, and stood off -and on until his return. About midnight, a fishing boat boarded us, and -brought letters, by which we learnt, that a great part of General -Lafayette’s family, and numbers of his friends, among whom was my -father, had waited for us at Havre for several days, and would join us -in a few hours. - -It may be readily supposed, that such news kept us awake all night, -expecting with impatience the return of day, to restore us to our -friends, our families, and our country. At six o’clock, the pilot being -on board, he cautiously guided the vessel towards Havre, which we saw -gradually becoming more visible on the horizon. At three o’clock we -anchored, from the impossibility of approaching nearer without danger in -a vessel the size of our frigate. Captain Morris then fired a salute of -twenty-four guns, which was answered from the fort a few moments -afterwards. At 11 o’clock, a steam-boat having boarded us, we -experienced the happiness of seeing our friends. - -We also received on board some citizens of Havre, among whom was M. de -Laroche, who begged the general to accept of lodgings in his house, as -long as he should remain in the city. Mr. Beasley, American consul at -Havre, was also among our visiters. Our captain and his officers -received them with distinction, and showed them every part of the -frigate, whose beautiful proportions and admirable order excited their -admiration. - -But the time rapidly passed, and the moment of separation from our -fellow passengers arrived. It would be difficult to portray the -expression of grief and regret that was observable on the faces of all -on board, when they advanced for the last time to bid farewell to him -whom they had so proudly conducted across the ocean. The officers -surrounded him for a long time, not being able to permit him to depart. -Their first lieutenant, Mr. Gregory, who had been commissioned by them -to express their sentiments, experienced so much emotion, that his voice -faltered in pronouncing the first words; but, as if suddenly inspired, -the young seaman sprung towards the national flag which floated at the -stern of the vessel, rapidly detached it, and presented it to the -general, exclaiming, “We cannot confide it to more glorious keeping! -Take it, dear general, may it for ever recall to you your alliance with -the American nation; may it also sometimes recall to your recollection -those who will never forget the happiness they enjoyed of passing -twenty-four days with you on board of the Brandywine; and in being -displayed twice a year on the towers of your hospitable dwelling, may it -recall to your neighbours the anniversary of two great epochs, whose -influence on the whole world is incalculable,—the birth of Washington -and the declaration of the independence of our country.” - -“I accept it with gratitude,” replied the general, “and I hope that, -displayed from the most prominent part of my house at La Grange, it will -always testify to all who may see it, the kindness of the American -nation towards its adopted and devoted son. And I also hope, that when -you or your fellow countrymen visit me, it will tell you, that at La -Grange you are not on a foreign soil.” - -At this moment, the noise of cannon and the huzzas of the sailors on the -yards, prevented any further adieus, and we went on board the -steam-boat, whence we saw the Brandywine spread her sails, and leave us -with the majesty of a floating fortress. - -Captain Morris, who was to accompany the general to Paris; Captain Reed, -a distinguished officer of the American navy, charged with a scientific -mission to Europe by his government; and Mr. Somerville, envoy from the -United States to the court of Sweden, left the Brandywine with us; and -this vessel, under the command of Lieutenant Gregory, sailed for the -Mediterranean, to reinforce the squadron there. - -On his landing, General Lafayette perceived that the sentiments -expressed towards him by the citizens of Havre, at his departure, had -not changed, and he was much affected at their warmth. As to the -administration, it was what it ought to have been the preceding year, -that is, it permitted a free expression of public opinion, so that in -his passage from the quay to Mr. de Laroche’s, the general had not the -grief of seeing his friends menaced by the sabres of the gens d’armes, -or humiliated by the presence of foreign troops. - -General Lafayette ardently desired to see such of his children as could -not come to meet him, and waited for him at La Grange, and he therefore -decided on leaving Havre the day after his arrival. His son embarked on -the Seine with his family and friends, to proceed to Rouen, where he -would wait for him, whilst, accompanied by Captain Morris and the author -of this journal, he went by land. On leaving the suburb, his carriage -was surrounded by a large cavalcade of young men, who asked permission -to accompany him to some distance. After an hour’s march, the general -stopped to thank his escort, who did not separate from him until they -had expressed the most flattering sentiments, through their young -leader, Mr. Etesse, to whom his fellow citizens bad also this day given -a proof of their esteem and friendship in placing themselves under his -orders. - -On arriving at Rouen, we stopped at M. Cabanon’s, a worthy merchant, who -has always been charged with the interests of his department in the -chamber of deputies, whenever his fellow citizens have been unshackled -in their choice. As an old friend and colleague of the general, he had -insisted on his right of receiving at his table the guest of America, -and had prepared him the pleasure of once more being seated with his -family and a great number of the most distinguished citizens of the -ancient capital of Normandy. Towards the end of the dinner, some one -came to announce to the general that a crowd of persons in the street, -accompanied by a band of musicians, wished to salute him. He eagerly -went out on the balcony to reply to this mark of esteem from the -population of Rouen, but scarcely were the first acclamations heard, -when detachments of the royal guard and gens d’armes appeared from the -extremities of the street, who, without any previous notice, began to -disperse the crowd. The moderation with which the royal guard executed -the orders they had received from an imprudent and blind administration, -proved how repugnant they were to them, but the gens d’armerie, anxious -to prove themselves the worthy instruments of the power that employed -them, _bravely_ charged on the unarmed citizens, and were not to be -checked by the cries of the women and children overthrown by the horses. -A manufacturer of Bolbec, an elderly man of Rouen, and several other -persons, were severely wounded. Many others were illegally and brutally -arrested. After these glorious exploits, the gens d’armes, being -conquerors, waited for the appearance of General Lafayette, and, sabre -in hand, accompanied the carriage to the hotel where we were to spend -the night. But here their success was checked; young men stationed at -the door forbid all entrance into this asylum, where many of those who -were obliged to fly had taken refuge, and where General Lafayette could -receive, in peace, the feeling and honourable congratulations of those -citizens who wished, in spite of the interdict of those in authority, to -testify the satisfaction they felt at the return of a man, who by the -triumphs decreed to him by a free nation had so much added to the glory -of the French name. - -This atrocious conduct of the magistrates and their servile instruments -afflicted us the more, from having a few days previous enjoyed the free -expression of the feelings and enthusiasm of the American people, and -which in spite of ourselves forced a comparison that was far from being -favourable to our own country. The presence of Captain Morris and some -of his countrymen who had accompanied him to Paris, added still more to -our sorrow and embarrassment. We seemed to read in their stern -expression, the feelings they experienced in seeing a people once so -energetic in the cause of liberty, now timidly submitting to the -despotism of bayonets. As soon as I found an opportunity of speaking to -them for a moment, I hastened to tell them that they must not confound -prudence and moderation with weakness, which was here only so in -appearance. That, in this instance, the citizens could not have supposed -that the local authorities would have been foolish enough to oppose the -expression of sentiments so inoffensive and natural, and consequently no -one had thought of making preparations for a resistance, whose necessity -had not been foreseen. Some young men who were near us overhearing this -conversation, added with warmth, “we hope our moderation will not be -misinterpreted by those who know us, and that they will understand that -we only submitted to be thus driven back by some gens d’armes, because -we wished to spare our friend General Lafayette the chagrin of being the -cause of a greater disturbance.” The American officers applauded the -courage and delicacy of this feeling, and comprehended that under other -circumstances, the triumph of the police and its gens d’armes over the -citizens of Rouen would not be so easy. - -The next morning, October 8th, the court of the hotel was filled by -young men on horseback, intended as an escort to the general as far as -the first post-house. Their countenances, and some words I overheard, -proved to me that they were full of the scene of the evening before, and -were firmly resolved that it should not be renewed with impunity. The -posts of the infantry and gens d’armerie had been doubled during the -night, as if the day was to be productive of great events; but the -magistracy confined itself to those ridiculous demonstrations, and -General Lafayette left the city in peace, receiving on his way numerous -testimonials of the good wishes of the citizens. - -At the end of the suburb, the escort was augmented by more young -horsemen, who accompanied him to the first relay of horses, where they -took leave of him, after having presented him with a crown of -“Immortelles,” which was laid in his carriage on the sword given him by -the New York militia. - -That evening we slept at St. Germain-en-Laye, and the next day, October -9th, we arrived at La Grange, where, for the three last days, the -neighbouring districts had been occupied in preparations for a fete on -the arrival of one so long and ardently looked for. - -At a certain distance from the house, the carriage stopped; and the -general on descending from it, found himself in the midst of a crowd, -whose transports and joy would have deceived a stranger, and led him to -suppose that they were all his children. The house was filled until -evening, by the crowd, who only retired after having conducted the -general, by the light of illuminations and to the sound of music, under -a triumphal arch, bearing an inscription, in which they had dedicated to -him the title of “friend of the people.” There he again received the -expressions of joy and happiness induced by his return. - -The next day, the general was occupied in receiving the young girls who -brought him flowers and chaunted couplets in his honour, the company of -the national guard of Court Palais, and a deputation from the town of -Rosay. The inhabitants of the commune in offering a box of flowers to -their friend, congratulated him on his arrival through their leader M. -Fricotelle. - -The following Sunday, the inhabitants of Rosay and its environs gave the -general a brilliant fete, the expenses of which were defrayed by common -subscription. The preparations which had required several days’ labour, -were the work of the citizens, who did not wish to be aided by any -mercenary hands. At five o’clock in the evening, more than four thousand -persons, many of whom had arrived from a distance of some leagues, -filled the apartments and courts of La Grange, to salute him, whom all -voices hailed as the friend of the people. At seven o’clock, a troop of -young girls marching at the head of the population of Rosay, presented a -basket of flowers to the general, and chaunted some simple and touching -couplets; after which Mr. Vigne pronounced in the name of the canton a -discourse filled with noble sentiments. After the general’s reply, which -was received with transports of joy, he was conducted in triumph to the -meadow, where an elegant tent had been erected for him and his family. -Illuminations artfully disposed, fire-works prepared by Ruggieri, -animated dances, a great number of booths of all kinds, and a population -of upwards of six thousand persons, all contributed to recall to -Lafayette some of the brilliant scenes of his American triumph; and with -the more truth, since he found so much conformity in the feelings which -dictated both. - -The dancing lasted all night; the cries of “long live the people’s -friend” were to be heard until the next day, when Lafayette, once more -in the bosom of his family, enjoyed that happiness and calm which only -result from the recollection of a well spent life. - - - THE END. - ------ - -Footnote 1: - - Since our return to France, the general has received a similar boiler - from Mr. Morris of Baltimore, which is now in use at La Grange. - -Footnote 2: - - This animal was a common seal, _phoca vitulina_, vulgarly called - _sea-dog_. The _sea-lion_ is another species of seal.—T. - -Footnote 3: - - See Art. 32 of the Constitution of North Carolina. - - [Whatever may be the condition of the statute on this subject in North - Carolina, it can be little better than a dead letter or nullity, since - it is so entirely inconsistent with the Constitution of the United - States. We do not recollect to have read of any instance in which this - offensive peculiarity has been productive of practical disadvantage. - It is unquestionably a blemish that calls for removal.—T.] - - The 31st article excludes from the senate, the house of - representatives, and the state councils, all members of the clerical - profession, without distinction of faith or sect, so long as they - continue in the exercise of their pastoral functions. - -Footnote 4: - - This is a common but inaccurate saying; an oblique shot will certainly - glance from the skin of the alligator, but one striking perpendicular - to the surface will as certainly penetrate, if within a proper - distance.—T. - -Footnote 5: - - This is another very common and ancient error, which has been repeated - from the days of Herodotus, who said it of the Egyptian crocodile, to - the present. The deceptive appearance is produced by the manner in - which the lower jaw is articulated; the joint being situated very far - back, when the mouth is opened, casual observers easily mistake the - part actually moved. See the article _Alligator_, in the lately - published Encyclopædia Americana.—T. - -Footnote 6: - - See the fable of the ass disguised in the lion’s skin, as related by - Æsop, Phædrus, or Lafontaine, in explanation of this allusion. T. - -Footnote 7: - - See the excellent work of Captain Hugh M‘Call, published in 1811, - entitled “_The History of Georgia_.” - -Footnote 8: - - In speaking of the morals of New Orleans, it is but just to - discriminate between its _permanent_ and _fluctuating_ population. - Being the only mart to a vast extent of country, and the most - frequented port on the Gulf of Mexico, it always contains a large - number of individuals of the rudest and most licentious class, who can - scarcely be said to belong to any country, are certainly of no - religion, and are of every shade of colour. It is therefore by no - means surprising, that gamblers, brawlers, and stabbers, should be - numerous where such a class abounds, more especially, as New Orleans - tolerates, by _license granted_, numerous establishments openly - devoted to gambling and all its consequences.—T. - -Footnote 9: - - Since the establishment of steam navigation, boatmen rarely return by - land. They pay a trifle for a _deck passage_; find their own - provisions, and aid the crew to bring wood, &c. on board, at the - stopping places.—T. - -Footnote 10: - - These geese, together with the Mexican hoccos presented by Mr. - Duplantier; wild turkeys presented by Mr. Thousand, of Baltimore; - Devonshire cows, given by Mr. Patterson; American partridges, - presented by Mr. Skinner, etc. at present ornament the farm of La - Grange, where General Lafayette exerts himself to multiply their - numbers. - -Footnote 11: - - See upon this subject Mr. Warden’s very curious work, entitled Remarks - upon the Antiquities of North America. - - [No theory, formed from the examination of a few of these mounds, can, - with any propriety, be resorted to for the purpose of explaining the - intentions of the ancient tribes in their formation. That they were - erected for various uses, is sufficiently evident from their - difference of construction, some being evidently merely monumental, - while others must have been designed for military, religious, or other - services. No one has examined the square and circular erections at - Circleville, in Ohio, (now rapidly disappearing before the industry of - the brick-makers), or those found near Piqua, or elsewhere in that - state, without feeling convinced that they were destined to different - uses from the mounds which occur in their vicinity, and appear to have - been erected by the same people. Dr. Clarke, and other travellers in - the north of Asia, inform us, that mounds, in all respects similar to - those of St. Louis, are very numerous in many places, and that they - are unquestionably sepulchral is proved by the bones, urns, and - ornaments found within them. These observations go far also to - establish the belief of the common origin of the American aborigines - and the nomadic tribes of the old continent. See Atwater’s very - interesting Archæologia Americana.—T.] - -Footnote 12: - - The grizzly bear is unquestionably a ferocious and sanguinary animal, - and is so much dreaded by the Indians and traders, that it is not - surprising they should give currency to endless fables and - exaggerations concerning it. But we cannot avoid a feeling of - surprise, mingled with some mortification, to find respectable and - intelligent travellers repeating, as actually true, statements of the - habits of our animals, which a very slight effort of reason would show - to be utterly absurd. Here we have A BEAR, the largest species known, - coursing after _men_ in _packs_, and _yelping_ like hounds! when we - have not on record, evidence, perhaps, of more than thirty of these - animals having been seen since the existence of the species was - discovered; nor the slightest evidence that any _bear_ ever uttered - any other sound than a low harsh growl!—T. - -Footnote 13: - - Since his return from America, General Lafayette has received a young - grizzly bear from the Missouri, sent him by Governor Clark. He has - presented it to the proprietors of the Jardin du Roi, who have placed - it in the menagerie, where it may now be seen. - -Footnote 14: - - Another still more laborious mode of going up stream, was by extending - a long line from the bow, by which the crew, walking along the margin - of the river, dragged the boat along. This is what is called - _cordelling_, and when it is recollected how rugged and irregular the - shores of the western rivers are, and the necessity of carrying the - cord clear of trees, rocks, &c., a more painful and exhausting kind of - labour can scarcely be imagined.—T. - -Footnote 15: - - Vevay wine is a perfect nondescript; in colour it slightly approaches - thin claret; its taste is altogether peculiar; something like it might - be made by sweetening vin de grave with brown sugar. Nothing but a - strong effort of courtesy, however, can induce any one seriously to - call it _wine_, unless the fact of its being made from grapes be - sufficient to secure it this title. As to its being “the best of the - wines made in the United States,” we apprehend the author’s experience - was scarcely sufficient to make his opinion decisive. It is certainly - far inferior to the best of our cider, in all the requisites of a - pleasant beverage.—T. - -Footnote 16: - - The canal has been completed since this journal was written, and fully - equals all anticipations.—T. - -Footnote 17: - - The territory of Vermont was at first part of the state of New - Hampshire, from which it was separated in 1764, to be annexed to that - of New York. It was not until 1791, that Vermont was admitted into the - confederation as an independent state. - -Footnote 18: - - Professor List was condemned to ten years of _hard literary labour_, - for having consented to be the organ of his fellow citizens to the - king of Wirtemberg. - -Footnote 19: - - Among these was General Lallemand, who is too well known for me to - eulogise him, and my two friends, my companions in arms, the brothers - Peregnet, who for a long time followed in Europe by honourable - persecutions, finally obtained in New York a safe asylum, where - American hospitality has enabled them to obtain the means of living - independently. The military academy which they have established upon - the most extensive and liberal scale, already enjoys popular favour. - -Footnote 20: - - The wish of the Whitehallers is accomplished. The _American Star_ is - now at La Grange, placed with its oars and rudder under an elegant - building which the general has had built expressly to shelter it, - worthy of the recollections it represents. - -Footnote 21: - - Courrier Français. - -Footnote 22: - - The day of our arrival at Staten Island, whilst the general was - receiving the congratulations of the people, from the balcony of the - vice president’s house, a rainbow, one of whose limbs enveloped and - tinged fort Lafayette with a thousand colours, appeared; the - multitude, struck with the beauty and opportuneness of this - circumstance, exclaimed, “that heaven was in unison with America in - celebrating the happy arrival of the friend of the country.” - -Footnote 23: - - This present, which was received by General Lafayette a short time - after his arrival at Paris, is a silver urn, of an antique form and - beautifully engraved. It rests on a base of the same metal, three of - the faces of which are ornamented with exquisite sculptures, - representing the capitol at Washington; the visit of Lafayette to the - tomb of Washington, and the arrival of the Brandywine at Havre. On the - fourth face is inscribed, in relief, the offering of the young - midshipmen to their paternal friend. This magnificent work was - executed at Paris, under the direction of Mr. Barnet, the American - consul, who replied to the confidence of the young seamen, with that - zeal which he always displays, in every thing relating to the glory of - his country, or the interests of his fellow-citizens. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES - - - 1. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling. - 2. Archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings retained as printed. - 3. Footnotes have been re-indexed using numbers and collected together - at the end of the last chapter. - 4. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825, -Vol. II, by A. 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