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diff --git a/old/61492-0.txt b/old/61492-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3634b03..0000000 --- a/old/61492-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11372 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Three Voyages of Captain Cook Round the -World. Vol. IV. Being the Second of the Sec, by James Cook and George Forster - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Three Voyages of Captain Cook Round the World. Vol. IV. Being the Second of the Second Voyage. - -Author: James Cook - George Forster - -Release Date: February 23, 2020 [EBook #61492] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK, VOL 4 *** - - - - -Produced by Sonya Schermann and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - -When italics were used in the original book, the corresponding text has -been surrounded by _underscores_. Superscripted characters are preceded -by ^. - -Some corrections have been made to the printed text. These are listed in -a second transcriber’s note at the end of the text. - - - - -[Illustration: _A View in the Island of Rotterdam._] - - - - - THE - - THREE - - VOYAGES - - OF - - CAPTAIN JAMES COOK - - ROUND THE WORLD. - - COMPLETE - - In Seven Volumes. - - _WITH MAP AND OTHER PLATES._ - - VOL. IV. - - BEING THE SECOND OF THE SECOND VOYAGE. - - - - - LONDON: - - PRINTED FOR - LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, - PATERNOSTER-ROW. - - 1821. - - - - - CONTENTS - - OF - - _THE FOURTH VOLUME_ - - SECOND VOYAGE. - - BOOK III. - - From Ulietea to New Zealand. - - - CHAP. I. - - Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Isles; with a Page 1 - Description of several Islands that were discovered, - and the Incidents which happened in that track - - - CHAP. II. - - Reception at Anamocka; a Robbery and its Consequences, 9 - with a variety of other Incidents.—Departure from the - Island.—A sailing Canoe described.—Some Observations - on the Navigation of these Islanders.—A Description of - the Island, and of those in the Neighbourhood, with - some Account of the Inhabitants, and Nautical Remarks - - - CHAP. III. - - The Passage from the Friendly Isles to the New Hebrides; 21 - with an Account of the Discovery of Turtle Island, and - a variety of Incidents which happened, both before and - after the Ship arrived in Port Sandwich in the Island - of Mallicollo.—A Description of the Port; the adjacent - Country; its Inhabitants, and many other particulars - - - CHAP. IV. - - An Account of the Discovery of several Islands, an 35 - Interview and Skirmish with the Inhabitants upon one - of them.—The Arrival of the Ship at Tanna, and the - Reception we met with there - - - CHAP. V. - - An Intercourse established with the Natives; some 49 - Account of the Island, and a variety of Incidents that - happened during our stay at it - - - CHAP. VI. - - Departure from Tanna; with some Account of its 69 - Inhabitants, their Manners and Arts - - - CHAP. VII. - - The Survey of the Islands continued, and a more 78 - particular Description of them - - - CHAP. VIII. - - An Account of the Discovery of New Caledonia, and the 95 - Incidents that happened while the Ship lay in Balade - - - CHAP. IX. - - A Description of the Country and its Inhabitants; their 109 - Manners, Customs, and Arts - - - CHAP. X. - - Proceedings on the Coast of New Caledonia, with 118 - geographical and nautical Observations - - - CHAP. XI. - - Sequel of the Passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, 135 - with an Account of the Discovery of Norfolk Island: - and the Incidents that happened while the Ship lay in - Queen Charlotte’s Sound - - - BOOK IV. - - From leaving New Zealand to our Return to England. - - - CHAP. I. - - The run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego, with the 151 - range from Cape Deseada to Christmas Sound, and - Description of that part of the Coast - - - CHAP. II. - - Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an Account of the 163 - country and its Inhabitants - - - CHAP. III. - - Range from Christmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through 173 - Strait Le Maire, and round Staten Land; with an - Account of the Discovery of a Harbour in that Island, - and a Description of the Coasts - - - CHAP. IV. - - Observations, geographical and nautical; with an Account 182 - of the Islands near Staten Land, and the Animals found - in them - - - CHAP. V. - - Proceedings after leaving Staten Land; with an Account 190 - of the Discovery of the Isle of Georgia, and a - Description of it - - - CHAP. VI. - - Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia, and an 204 - Account of the Discovery of Sandwich Land: with some - reasons for there being Land about the South Pole - - - CHAP. VII. - - Heads of what has been done in the Voyage; with some 219 - Conjectures concerning the Formation of Ice-islands; - and an Account of our Proceedings till our Arrival at - the Cape of Good Hope - - - CHAP. VIII. - - Captain Furneaux’s Narrative of his Proceedings in the 229 - Adventure, from the time he was separated from the - Resolution, to his Arrival in England; including - Lieutenant Burney’s Report concerning the Boat’s Crew, - who were murdered by the Inhabitants of Queen - Charlotte’s Sound - - - CHAP. IX. - - Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account 241 - of some Discoveries made by the French; and the - Arrival of the Ship at St. Helena - - - CHAP. X. - - Passage from St. Helena to the Western Islands, with a 248 - Description of the Islands of Ascension and Fernando - Noronho - - - CHAP. XI. - - Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a 258 - Description of the Place, and the Return of the - Resolution to England - - A Vocabulary of the Language of the Society Isles 269 - - A Table, exhibiting, at one view, Specimens of different _At the End of - Languages spoken in the South Sea, from Easter Island the Volume._ - westward to New Caledonia, as observed in the Voyage - - - - - A - - VOYAGE - - TOWARDS - - THE SOUTH POLE, - - AND - - ROUND THE WORLD, - - IN 1772, 1773, 1774, AND 1775. - - - - - BOOK III. - - FROM ULIETEA TO NEW ZEALAND. - - - - - CHAP. I. - - PASSAGE FROM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLES; WITH A DESCRIPTION OF - SEVERAL ISLANDS THAT WERE DISCOVERED, AND THE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED - IN THAT TRACK. - - -On the 6th, being the day after leaving Ulietea, at eleven o’clock A. M. -we saw land bearing N. W., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be -a low reef island about four leagues in compass, and of a circular form. -It is composed of several small patches connected together by breakers, -the largest lying on the N. E. part. This is Howe island, discovered by -Captain Wallis, who, I think, sent his boat to examine it; and, if I -have not been misinformed, found a channel through, within the reef, -near the N. W. part. The inhabitants of Ulietea speak of an uninhabited -island, about this situation, called by them Mopeha, to which they go at -certain seasons for turtle. Perhaps this may be the same; as we saw no -signs of inhabitants upon it. Its latitude is 16° 46ʹ South; longitude -154° 8ʹ West. - -From this day to the 16th, we met with nothing remarkable, and our -course was West southerly; the winds variable from the North round by -the East to S. W. attended with cloudy, rainy, unsettled weather, and a -southerly swell. We generally brought to, or stood upon a wind, during -night; and in the day made all the sail we could. About half an hour -after sun-rise this morning, land was seen from the top-mast head, -bearing N. N. E. We immediately altered the course and steering for it, -found it to be another reef island, composed of five or six woody -islets, connected together by sand banks and breakers, inclosing a lake, -into which we could see no entrance. We ranged the West and N. W. -coasts, from its southern to its northern extremity, which is about two -leagues; and so near the shore, that at one time we could see the rocks -under us; yet we found no anchorage, nor saw we any signs of -inhabitants. There were plenty of various kinds of birds, and the coast -seemed to abound with fish. The situation of this isle is not very -distant from that assigned by Mr. Dalrymple for La Sagitaria, discovered -by Quiros; but, by the description the discoverer has given of it, it -cannot be the same. For this reason, I looked upon it as a new -discovery, and named it Palmerston Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston, -one of the Lords of the Admiralty. It is situated in latitude 18° 4ʹ -South, longitude 163° 10ʹ West. - -At four o’clock in the afternoon we left this isle, and resumed our -course to the W. by S. with a fine steady gale easterly, till noon on -the 20th, at which time, being in latitude 18° 50ʹ, longitude 168° 52ʹ, -we thought we saw land to S. S. W. and hauled up for it accordingly. But -two hours after, we discovered our mistake, and resumed our course W. by -S. Soon after we saw land from the mast-head in the same direction; and, -as we drew nearer, found it to be an island which, at five o’clock, bore -West, distant five leagues. Here we spent the night plying under the -top-sails; and, at day-break next morning, bore away, steering for the -northern point, and ranging the West coast at the distance of one mile, -till near noon. Then, perceiving some people on the shore, and landing -seeming to be easy, we brought to, and hoisted out two boats, with which -I put off to the land, accompanied by some of the officers and -gentlemen. As we drew near the shore, some of the inhabitants, who were -on the rocks, retired to the woods, to meet us, as we supposed; and we -afterwards found our conjectures right. We landed with ease in a small -creek, and took post on a high rock to prevent a surprise. Here we -displayed our colours, and Mr. Forster and his party began to collect -plants, &c. The coast was so over-run with woods, bushes, plants, -stones, &c. that we could not see forty yards round us. I took two men, -and with them entered a kind of chasm, which opened a way into the -woods. We had not gone far before we heard the natives approaching; upon -which I called to Mr. Forster to retire to the party, as I did likewise. -We had no sooner joined, than the islanders appeared at the entrance of -a chasm not a stone’s-throw from us. We began to speak, and make all the -friendly signs we could think of to them, which they answered by -menaces; and one of two men, who were advanced before the rest, threw a -stone, which struck Mr. Sparrman on the arm. Upon this two musquets were -fired, without order, which made them all retire under cover of the -woods; and we saw them no more. - -After waiting some little time, and till we were satisfied nothing was -to be done here, the country being so over-run with bushes, that it was -hardly possible to come to parly with them, we embarked and proceeded -down along shore, in hopes of meeting with better success in another -place. After ranging the coast for some miles without seeing a living -soul, or any convenient landing-place, we at length came before a small -beach, on which lay four canoes. Here we landed by means of a little -creek, formed by the flat rocks before it, with a view of just looking -at the canoes, and to leave some medals, nails, &c. in them; for not a -soul was to be seen. The situation of this place was to us worse than -the former. A flat rock lay next the sea; behind it a narrow stone -beach; this was bounded by a perpendicular rocky cliff of unequal -height, whose top was covered with shrubs; two deep and narrow chasms in -the cliff seemed to open a communication into the country. In, or before -one of these, lay the four canoes which we were going to look at; but in -the doing of this, I saw we should be exposed to an attack from the -natives, if there were any, without being in a situation proper for -defence. To prevent this, as much as could be, and to secure a retreat -in case of an attack, I ordered the men to be drawn up upon the rock, -from whence they had a view of the heights; and only myself, and four of -the gentlemen, went up to the canoes. We had been there but a few -minutes, before the natives, I cannot say how many, rushed down the -chasm out of the wood upon us. The endeavours we used to bring them to a -parly, were to no purpose; for they came with the ferocity of wild -boars, and threw their darts. Two or three musquets, discharged in the -air, did not hinder one of them from advancing still farther, and -throwing another dart, or rather a spear, which passed close over my -shoulder. His courage would have cost him his life, had not my musquet -missed fire; for I was not five paces from him, when he threw his spear, -and had resolved to shoot him to save myself. I was glad afterwards that -it happened as it did. At this instant, our men on the rock began to -fire at others who appeared on the heights, which abated the ardour of -the party we were engaged with, and gave us time to join our people, -when I caused the firing to cease. The last discharge sent all the -islanders to the woods, from whence they did not return so long as we -remained. We did not know that any were hurt. It was remarkable, that -when I joined our party, I tried my musquet in the air, and it went off -as well as a piece could do. Seeing no good was to be got with these -people, or at the isle, as having no port, we returned on board, and -having hoisted in the boats, made sail to W. S. W. I had forgot to -mention, in its proper order, that having put ashore a little before we -came to this last place, three or four of us went upon the cliffs, where -we found the country, as before, nothing but coral rocks, all over-run -with bushes; so that it was hardly possible to penetrate into it, and we -embarked again with intent to return directly on board, till we saw the -canoes; being directed to the place by the opinion of some of us, who -thought they heard some people. - -The conduct and aspect of these islanders occasioned my naming it Savage -Island. It is situated in the latitude 19° 1ʹ South, longitude 169° 37ʹ -West. It is about eleven leagues in circuit; of a round form, and good -height; and hath deep waters close to its shores. All the sea-coast, and -as far inland as we could see, is wholly covered with trees, shrubs, &c. -amongst which were some cocoa-nut trees; but what the interior parts may -produce, we know not. To judge of the whole garment by the skirts, it -cannot produce much; for so much as we saw of it consisted wholly of -coral rocks, all over-run with wood and bushes. Not a bit of soil was to -be seen; the rocks alone supplying the trees with humidity. If these -coral rocks were first formed in the sea by animals, how came they -thrown up to such a height? Has this island been raised by an -earthquake? Or has the sea receded from it? Some philosophers have -attempted to account for the formation of low isles, such as are in this -sea; but I do not know that any thing has been said of high islands, or -such as I have been speaking of. In this island, not only the loose -rocks which cover the surface, but the cliffs which bound the shores, -are of coral stone, which the continual beating of the sea has formed -into a variety of curious caverns, some of them very large: the roof or -rock over them being supported by pillars, which the foaming waves have -formed into a multitude of shapes, and made more curious than the -caverns themselves. In one, we saw light was admitted through a hole at -the top; in another place, we observed that the whole roof of one of -these caverns had sunk in, and formed a kind of valley above, which lay -considerably below the circumjacent rocks. - -I can say but little of the inhabitants, who I believe, are not -numerous. They seemed to be stout, well-made men, were naked, except -round the waists, and some of them had their faces, breast, and thighs -painted black. The canoes were precisely like those of Amsterdam; with -the addition of a little rising like a gunwale on each side of the open -part; and had some carving about them, which shewed that these people -are full as ingenious. Both these islanders and their canoes, agree very -well with the descriptions M. de Bougainville has given of those he saw -off the Isle of Navigators, which lies nearly under the same meridian. - -After leaving Savage Island, we continued to steer W. S. W. with a fine -easterly trade-wind, till the 24th in the evening, when, judging -ourselves not far from Rotterdam, we brought to, and spent the night -plying under the top-sails. At day-break, next morning, we bore away -West; and, soon after, saw a string of islands extending from S. S. W. -by the West to N. N. W. The wind being at N. E. we hauled to N. W. with -a view of discovering more distinctly the isles in that quarter; but, -presently after, we discovered a reef of rocks a-head, extending on each -bow farther than we could see. As we could not weather them, it became -necessary to tack and bear up to the South, to look for a passage that -way. At noon, the southernmost island bore S. W.; distant four miles. -North of this isle were three others, all connected by breakers, which -we were not sure did not join to those we had seen in the morning, as -some were observed in the intermediate space. Some islands were also -seen to the West of those four; but Rotterdam was not yet in sight. -Latitude 20° 23ʹ S. longitude 174° 6ʹ West. During the whole afternoon, -we had little wind: so that, at sunset, the southernmost isle bore -W. N. W., distant five miles; and some breakers, we had seen to the -South, bore now S. S. W. half W. Soon after it fell calm, and we were -left to the mercy of a great easterly swell; which, however, happened to -have no great effect upon the ship. The calm continued till four o’clock -the next morning, when it was succeeded by a breeze from the South. At -day-light, perceiving a likelihood of a passage between the islands to -the North, and the breakers to the South, we stretched in West, and soon -after saw more islands, both to the S. W. and N. W. but the passage -seemed open and clear. Upon drawing near the islands, we sounded, and -found forty-five and forty fathoms, a clear sandy bottom. I was now -quite easy, since it was in our power to anchor, in case of a calm; or -to spend the night, if we found no passage. Towards noon, some canoes -came off to us from one of the isles, having two or three people in -each; who advanced boldly along-side, and exchanged some cocoa-nuts, and -shaddocks for small nails. They pointed out to us Anamocka or Rotterdam; -an advantage we derived from knowing the proper names. They likewise -gave us the names of some of the other isles, and invited us much to go -to theirs, which they called Cornango. The breeze freshening, we left -them astern, and steered for Anamocka; meeting with a clear passage, in -which we found unequal sounding, from forty to nine fathoms, depending, -I believe, in a great measure, on our distance from the islands which -form it. - -As we drew near the south end of Rotterdam, or Anamocka, we were met by -a number of canoes, laden with fruit and roots; but, as I did not -shorten sail, we had but little traffic with them. The people in one -canoe enquired for me by name; a proof that these people have an -intercourse with those of Amsterdam. They importuned us much to go -towards their coast, letting us know, as we understood them, that we -might anchor there. This was on the S. W. side of the island, where the -coast seemed to be sheltered from the South and S. E. winds; but as the -day was far spent, I could not attempt to go in there, as it would have -been necessary to have sent first a boat in to examine it. I therefore -stood for the north side of the island, where we anchored about -three-fourths of a mile from shore; the extremes of it bearing S. 88° -East to S. W. a cove with a sandy beach at the bottom of it S. 50° East. - - - - - CHAP. II. - -RECEPTION AT ANAMOCKA; A ROBBERY AND ITS CONSEQUENCES, WITH A VARIETY OF - OTHER INCIDENTS. DEPARTURE FROM THE ISLAND. A SAILING CANOE DESCRIBED. -SOME OBSERVATIONS ON THE NAVIGATION OF THESE ISLANDERS. A DESCRIPTION OF -THE ISLAND, AND OF THOSE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE - INHABITANTS, AND NAUTICAL REMARKS. - - -Before we had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts -in canoes, bringing with them yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged -for small nails and old rags. One man taking a vast liking to our lead -and line, got hold of it, and, in spite of all the threats I could make -use of, cut the line with a stone; but a discharge of small shot made -him return it. Early in the morning, I went ashore, with Mr. Gilbert, to -look for fresh water. We landed in the cove above-mentioned, and were -received with great courtesy by the natives. After I had distributed -some presents amongst them, I asked for water, and was conducted to a -pond of it that was brackish, about three-fourths of a mile from the -landing-place; which I suppose to be the same that Tasman watered at. In -the mean time, the people in the boat had laden her with fruit and -roots, which the natives had brought down, and exchanged for nails and -beads. On our return to the ship, I found the same sort of traffic -carrying on there. After breakfast, I went ashore with two boats to -trade with the people, accompanied by several of the gentlemen, and -ordered the launch to follow with casks to be filled with water. The -natives assisted us to roll them to and from the pond; and a nail or a -bead was the expence of their labour. Fruit and roots, especially -shaddocks and yams, were brought down in such plenty, that the two boats -were laden, sent off, cleared, and laden a second time, before noon; by -which time also the launch had got a full supply of water, and the -botanical and shooting parties had all come in, except the surgeon, for -whom we could not wait, as the tide was ebbing fast out of the cove; -consequently he was left behind. As there is no getting into the cove -with a boat, from between half ebb to half flood, we could get off no -water in the afternoon. However, there is a very good landing-place -without it, near the southern point, where boats can get ashore at all -times of the tide; here some of the officers landed after dinner, where -they found the surgeon, who had been robbed of his gun. Having come down -to the shore some time after the boats had put off, he got a canoe to -bring him on board; but as he was getting into her, a fellow snatched -hold of the gun, and ran off with it. After that no one would carry him -to the ship, and they would have stripped him, as he imagined, had he -not presented a tooth-pick case, which they, no doubt, thought was a -little gun. As soon as I heard of this, I landed at the place -above-mentioned, and the few natives who were there fled at my approach. -After landing, I went in search of the officers, whom I found in the -cove, where we had been in the morning, with a good many of the natives -about them. No step had been taken to recover the gun, nor did I think -proper to take any; but in this I was wrong. The easy manner of -obtaining this gun, which they now, no doubt, thought secure in their -possession, encouraged them to proceed in these tricks, as will soon -appear. The alarm the natives had caught being soon over, they carried -fruit, &c. to the boats, which got pretty well laden before night, when -we all returned on board. - -Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Clerke, with the Master and -fourteen or fifteen men, went on shore in the launch for water. I did -intend to have followed in another boat myself, but rather unluckily -deferred it till after breakfast. The launch was no sooner landed than -the natives gathered about her, behaving in so rude a manner, that the -officers were in some doubt if they should land the casks; but, as they -expected me on shore soon, they ventured, and, with difficulty, got them -filled, and into the boat again. In the doing of this, Mr. Clerke’s gun -was snatched from him, and carried off; as were also some of the -cooper’s tools; and several of the people were stripped of one thing or -another. All this was done, as it were, by stealth; for they laid hold -of nothing by main force. I landed just as the launch was ready to put -off; and the natives, who were pretty numerous on the beach, as soon as -they saw me, fled; so that I suspected something had happened. However, -I prevailed on many to stay, and Mr. Clerke came, and informed me of all -the preceding circumstances. I quickly came to a resolution to oblige -them to make restitution; and, for this purpose, ordered all the marines -to be armed, and sent on shore. Mr. Forster and his party being gone -into the country, I ordered two or three guns to be fired from the ship, -in order to alarm him; not knowing how the natives might act on this -occasion. These orders being given, I sent all the boats off but one, -with which I stayed, having a good many of the natives about me, who -behaved with their usual courtesy. I made them so sensible of my -intention, that long before the marines came, Mr. Clerke’s musquet was -brought, but they used many excuses to divert me from insisting on the -other. At length Mr. Edgecumbe arriving with the marines, this alarmed -them so much, that some of them fled. The first step I took was to seize -on two large double-sailing canoes, which were in the cove. One fellow -making resistance, I fired some small shot at him, and sent him limping -off. The natives being now convinced that I was in earnest, all fled; -but on my calling to them, many returned; and, presently after, the -other musquet was brought, and laid at my feet. That moment I ordered -the canoes to be restored, to show them on what account they were -detained. The other things we had lost being of less value, I was the -more indifferent about them. By this time the launch was ashore for -another turn of water, and we were permitted to fill the casks without -any one daring to come near us; except one man, who had befriended us -during the whole affair, and seemed to disapprove of the conduct of his -countrymen. - -On my returning from the pond to the cove, I found a good many people -collected together, from whom we understood that the man I had fired at -was dead. This story I treated as improbable, and addressed a man, who -seemed of some consequence, for the restitution of a cooper’s adze we -had lost in the morning. He immediately sent away two men, as I thought, -for it; but I soon found that we had greatly mistaken each other; for, -instead of the adze, they brought the wounded man, stretched out on a -board, and laid him down by me, to all appearance dead. I was much moved -at the sight; but soon saw my mistake, and that he was only wounded in -the hand and thigh. I therefore desired he might be carried out of the -sun, and sent for the surgeon to dress his wounds. In the mean time, I -addressed several people for the adze; for as I had now nothing else to -do, I determined to have it. The one I applied the most to, was an -elderly woman, who had always a great deal to say to me, from my first -landing; but, on this occasion, she gave her tongue full scope. I -understood but little of her eloquence; and all I could gather from her -arguments was, that it was mean in me to insist on the return of so -trifling a thing. But when she found I was determined, she and three or -four more women went away; and soon after the adze was brought me, but I -saw her no more. This I was sorry for, as I wanted to make her a -present, in return for the part she had taken in all our transactions, -private as well as public. For I was no sooner returned from the pond, -the first time I landed, than this old lady presented to me a girl, -giving me to understand she was at my service. Miss, who probably had -received her instructions, wanted, as a preliminary article, a -spike-nail, or a shirt, neither of which I had to give her, and soon -made them sensible of my poverty. I thought, by that means, to have come -off with flying colours; but I was mistaken; for they gave me to -understand I might retire with her on credit. On my declining this -proposal, the old lady began to argue with me; and then abuse me. Though -I comprehended little of what she said, her actions were expressive -enough, and showed that her words were to this effect, sneering in my -face, saying, what sort of a man are you, thus to refuse the embraces of -so fine a young woman? For the girl certainly did not want beauty; -which, however, I could better withstand, than the abuses of this worthy -matron, and therefore hastened into the boat. They wanted me to take the -young lady aboard; but this could not be done, as I had given strict -orders, before I went ashore, to suffer no woman, on any pretence -whatever, to come into the ship, for reasons which I shall mention in -another place. - -As soon as the surgeon got ashore, he dressed the man’s wounds, and bled -him; and was of opinion that he was in no sort of danger, as the shot -had done little more than penetrate the skin. In the operation, some -poultice being wanting, the surgeon asked for ripe plantains; but they -brought sugar-cane, and having chewed it to a pulp, gave it him to apply -to the wound. This being of a more balsamic nature than the other, -proves that these people have some knowledge of simples. As soon as the -man’s wounds were dressed, I made him a present, which his master, or at -least the man who owned the canoe, took most probably to himself. -Matters being thus settled, apparently to the satisfaction of all -parties, we repaired on board to dinner, where I found a good supply of -fruit and roots, and therefore gave orders to get every thing in -readiness to sail. - -I now was informed of a circumstance which was observed on board: -several canoes being at the ship, when the great guns were fired in the -morning, they all retired, but one man, who was bailing the water out of -his canoe, which lay along-side, directly under the guns. When the first -was fired, he just looked up, and then, quite unconcerned, continued his -work; nor had the second gun any other effect upon him; he did not stir -till the water was all out of his canoe, when he paddled leisurely off. -This man had several times been observed to take fruit and roots out of -other canoes, and sell them to us. If the owners did not willingly part -with them, he took them by force; by which he obtained the appellation -of custom-house officer. One time, after he had been collecting tribute, -he happened to be lying along-side of a sailing canoe which was on -board. One of her people seeing him look another way, and his attention -otherwise engaged, took the opportunity of stealing somewhat out of his -canoe; they then put off, and set their sail; but the man, perceiving -the trick they had played him, darted after them, and having soon got on -board their canoe, beat him who had taken his things, and not only -brought back his own but many other articles which he took from them. -This man had likewise been observed making collections on shore at the -trading-place. I remembered to have seen him there; and, on account of -his gathering tribute, took him to be a man of consequence, and was -going to make him a present; but some of their people would not let me; -saying he was no _Areeke_, (that is, chief). He had his hair always -powdered with some kind of white dust. - -As we had no wind to sail this afternoon, a party of us went ashore in -the evening. We found the natives every where courteous and obliging; so -that, had we made a longer stay, it is probable we should have had no -more reason to complain of their conduct. While I was now on shore, I -got the names of twenty islands which lie between the N. W. and N. E. -some of them in sight. Two of them, which lie most to the West, viz. -Amattafoa and Oghao, are remarkable on account of their great height. In -Amattafoa, which is the westernmost, we judged there was a volcano, by -the continual column of smoke we saw daily ascending from the middle of -it. - -Both Mr. Cooper and myself being on shore at noon, Mr. Wales could not -wind up the watch at the usual time; and, as we did not come on board -till late in the afternoon, it was forgotten till it was down. This -circumstance was of no consequence, as Mr. Wales had had several -altitudes of the sun at this place, before it went down; and also had -opportunities of taking some after. - -At day-break on the 29th, having got under sail with a light breeze at -West, we stood to the North for the two high islands; but the wind, -scanting upon us, carried us in amongst the low isles and shoals; so -that we had to ply to clear them. This gave time for a great many -canoes, from all parts, to get up with us. The people in them brought -for traffic various articles; some roots, fruits and fowls, but of the -latter not many. They took in exchange small nails, and pieces of any -kinds of cloth. I believe, before they went away, they stripped the most -of our people of the few clothes the ladies of Otaheite had left them; -for the passion for curiosities was as great as ever. Having got clear -of the low isles, we made a stretch to the South, and did but fetch a -little to windward of the south end of Anamocka; so that we got little -by this day’s plying. Here we spent the night, making short boards over -that space with which we made ourselves acquainted the preceding day. - -On the 30th at day-break stretched out for Amattafoa, with a gentle -breeze at W. S. W. Day no sooner dawned than we saw canoes coming from -all parts. Their traffic was much the same as it had been the day -before, or rather better; for out of one canoe I got two pigs, which -were scarce articles here. At four in the afternoon, we drew near the -island of Amattafoa, and passed between it and Oghao, the channel being -two miles broad, safe and without soundings. While we were in the -passage, we had little wind and calms. This gave time for a large -sailing double canoe, which had been following us all the day, as well -as some others with paddles, to come up with us. - -I had now an opportunity to verify a thing I was before in doubt about; -which was, whether or no some of these canoes did not, in changing -tacks, only shift the sail, and so proceed with that end foremost which -before was the stern; the one we now saw wrought in this manner; the -sail is latteen, extended to a latteen yard above, and to a boom at the -foot; in one word, it is like a whole mizzen, supposing the whole foot -to be extended to a boom. The yard is slung nearly in the middle, or -upon an equipoise. When they change tacks, they throw the vessel up in -the wind, ease off the sheet, and bring the heel or tack-end of the yard -to the other end of the boat, and the sheet in like manner: there are -notches, or sockets, at each end of the vessel in which the end of the -yard fixes. In short, they work just as those do at the Ladrone Islands, -according to Mr. Walter’s description.[1] When they want to sail large, -or before the wind, the yard is taken out of the socket and squared. It -must be observed, that all their sailing vessels are not rigged to sail -in the same manner; some, and those of the largest size, are rigged so -as to tack about. These have a short but pretty stout mast, which steps -on a kind of roller that is fixed to the deck near the fore-part. It is -made to lean or incline very much forward; the head is forked; on the -two points of which the yard rests, as on two pivots, by means of two -strong cleats of wood secured to each side of the yard, at about -one-third its length from the tack or heel, which, when under sail, is -confined down between the two canoes, by means of two strong ropes, one -to and passing through a hole at the head of each canoe; for, it must be -observed, that all the sailing vessels of this sort are double. The tack -being thus fixed, it is plain that, in changing tacks, the vessels must -be put about; the sail and boom on the one tack will be clear of the -mast, and on the other it will lie against it, just as a whole mizzen. -However, I am not sure if they do not sometimes unlace that part of the -sail from the yard which is between the tack and mast-head, and so shift -both sail and boom leeward of the mast. The drawings which Mr. Hodges -made of these vessels seem to favour this supposition, and will not only -illustrate, but in a manner make the description of them unnecessary. -The out-riggers and ropes used for shrouds, &c. are all stout and -strong. Indeed, the sail, yard, and boom, are all together of such an -enormous weight, that strength is required. - -The summit of Amattafoa was hid in the clouds the whole day, so that we -were not able to determine with certainty whether there was a volcano or -no; but every thing we could see concurred to make us believe there was. -This island is about five leagues in circuit. Oghao is not so much; but -more round and peaked. They lie in the direction of N. N. W. 1/2 W. from -Anamocka, eleven or twelve leagues distant: they are both inhabited; but -neither of them seemed fertile. - -We were hardly through the passage before we got a fresh breeze at -south. That moment, all the natives made haste to be gone, and we -steered to the west, all sails set. I had some thoughts of touching at -Amsterdam, as it lay not much out of the way; but, as the wind was now, -we could not fetch it; and this was the occasion of my laying my design -aside altogether. - -Let us now return to Anamocka, as it is called by the natives. It is -situated in the latitude of 20° 15ʹ South, longitude 174° 31ʹ West, and -was first discovered by Tasman, and by him named Rotterdam. It is of a -triangular form, each side whereof is about three and a half or four -miles. A salt-water lake in the middle of it occupies not a little of -its surface, and in a manner cuts off the S. E. angle. Round the island, -that is, from the N. W. to the south, round by the north and east, lie -scattered a number of small isles, sand-banks, and breakers. We could -see no end to their extent to the north; and it is not impossible that -they reach as far south as Amsterdam, or Tongatabu. These, together with -Middleburg or Eaoowee, and Pylstart, make a group, containing about -three degrees of latitude and two of longitude, which I have named the -Friendly Isles or Archipelago, as a firm reliance and friendship seems -to subsist among their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour to -strangers entitles them to that appellation; under which we might -perhaps extend their group much farther, even down to Boscawen and -Keppel’s isles, discovered by Captain Wallis, and lying nearly under the -same meridian, and in the latitude of 15° 53ʹ; for, from the little -account I have had of the people of these two isles, they seem to have -the same sort of friendly disposition we observed in our Archipelago. - -The inhabitants, productions, &c. of Rotterdam, and the neighbouring -isles, are the same as at Amsterdam. Hogs and fowls are, indeed, much -scarcer; of the former having got but six, and not many of the latter. -Yams and shaddocks were what we got the most of; other fruits were not -so plenty. Not half the isle is laid out in inclosed plantations as at -Amsterdam; but the parts which are not inclosed are not less fertile or -uncultivated. There is, however, far more waste land on this isle, in -proportion to its size, than upon the other, and the people seem to be -much poorer; that is, in cloth, matting, ornaments, &c. which constitute -a great part of the riches of the South Sea islanders. - -The people of this isle seem to be more affected with the leprosy, or -some scrophulous disorder, than any I have seen elsewhere. It breaks out -in the face more than any other part of the body. I have seen several -whose faces were ruined by it, and their noses quite gone. In one of my -excursions, happening to peep into a house where one or more of them -were, one man only appeared at the door, or hole by which I must have -entered, and which he began to stop up, by drawing several parts of a -cord across it. But the intolerable stench which came from his putrid -face was alone sufficient to keep me out, had the entrance been ever so -wide. His nose was quite gone, and his whole face in one continued -ulcer; so that the very sight of him was shocking. As our people had not -all got clear of a certain disease they had contracted at the Society -isles, I took all possible care to prevent its being communicated to the -natives here; and I have reason to believe my endeavours succeeded. - -Having mentioned a house, it may not be amiss to observe, that some here -differ from those I saw at the other isles; being inclosed or walled on -every side with reeds neatly put together, but not close. The entrance -is by a square hole about two and a half feet each way. The form of -these houses is an oblong square; the floor or foundation every way -shorter than the eve, which is about four feet from the ground. By this -construction, the rain that falls on the roof is carried off from the -wall; which otherwise would decay and rot. - -We did not distinguish any king, or leading chief, or any person who -took upon him the appearance of supreme authority. The man and woman -before mentioned, whom I believed to be man and wife, interested -themselves on several occasions in our affairs; but it was easy to see -they had no great authority. Amongst other things which I gave them as a -reward for their service, was a young dog and bitch, animals which they -have not, but are very fond of, and know very well by name. They have -some of the same sort of earthen pots we saw at Amsterdam; and I am of -opinion they are of their own manufacture, or that of some neighbouring -isle. - -The road, as I have already mentioned, is on the north side of the isle, -just to the southward of the southernmost cove; for there are two on -this side. The bank is of some extent, and the bottom free from rocks, -with twenty-five and twenty fathoms water, one or two miles from the -shore. - -Fire-wood is very convenient to be got at, and easy to be shipped off; -but the water is so brackish that it is not worth the trouble of -carrying it on board; unless one is in great distress for want of that -article, and can get no better. There is, however, better, not only on -this isle, but on others in the neighbourhood; for the people brought us -some in cocoa-nut shells, which was as good as need be; but probably the -springs are too trifling to water a ship. - -I have already observed that the S. W. side of the island is covered by -a reef or reefs of rocks, and small isles. If there be a sufficient -depth of water between them and the island, as there appeared to be, and -a good bottom, this would be a much securer place for a ship to anchor -in than that where we had our station. - - - - - CHAP. III. - -THE PASSAGE FROM THE FRIENDLY ISLES TO THE NEW HEBRIDES, WITH AN ACCOUNT - OF THE DISCOVERY OF TURTLE ISLAND, AND A VARIETY OF INCIDENTS WHICH - HAPPENED, BOTH BEFORE AND AFTER THE SHIP ARRIVED IN PORT SANDWICH, IN - THE ISLAND OF MALLICOLLO.—A DESCRIPTION OF THE PORT; THE ADJACENT - COUNTRY; ITS INHABITANTS, AND MANY OTHER PARTICULARS. - - -On the 1st of July, at sun-rise, Amattafoa was still in sight, bearing -E. by N. distant twenty leagues. Continuing our course to the west, we, -the next day at noon, discovered land bearing N. W. by W. for which we -steered; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a small island. At -4 o’clock it bore, from N. W. 1/2 W. to N. W. by N. and, at the same -time, breakers were seen from the mast-head, extending from W. to S. W. -The day being too far spent to make farther discoveries, we soon after -shortened sail, hauled the wind, and spent the night making short -boards, which, at daybreak, we found had been so advantageous that we -were further from the island than we expected, and it was eleven o’clock -before we reached the N. W. or lee-side, where anchorage and landing -seemed practicable. In order to obtain a knowledge of the former, I sent -the master with a boat to sound; and, in the mean time, we stood on and -off with the ship. At this time, four or five people were seen on the -reef, which lies round the isle, and about three times that number on -the shore. As the boat advanced, those on the reef retired, and joined -the others; and when the boat landed, they all fled to the woods. It was -not long before the boat returned, when the master informed me that -there were no soundings without the reef, over which, in one place only, -he found a boat-channel of six feet water. Entering by it, he rowed in -for the shore, thinking to speak with the people, not more than twenty -in number, who were armed with clubs and spears; but the moment he set -his foot on shore, they retired to the woods. He left on the rocks some -medals, nails, and a knife; which they, no doubt, found, as some were -seen near the place afterwards. This island is not quite a league in -length, in the direction of N. E. and S. W. and not half that in -breadth. It is covered with wood, and surrounded by a reef of coral -rocks, which, in some places, extend two miles from the shore. It seems -to be too small to contain many inhabitants; and probably the few whom -we saw may have come from some isle in the neighbourhood to fish for -turtle; as many were seen near this reef, and occasioned that name to be -given to the island, which is situated in latitude 19° 48ʹ South, -longitude 178° 2ʹ West. - -Seeing breakers to the S. S. W., which I was desirous of knowing the -extent of before night, I left Turtle isle, and stood for them. At two -o’clock we found they were occasioned by a coral bank of about four or -five leagues in circuit. By the bearing we had taken, we knew these to -be the same breakers we had seen the preceding evening. Hardly any part -of this bank or reef is above water at the reflux of the waves. The -heads of some rocks are to be seen near the edge of the reef, where it -is the shoalest; for in the middle is deep water. In short, this bank -wants only a few little islets to make it exactly like one of the -half-drowned isles so often mentioned. It lies S. W. from Turtle island, -about five or six miles, and the channel between it and the reef of that -isle is three miles over. Seeing no more shoals or islands, and thinking -there might be turtle on this bank, two boats were properly equipped and -sent thither; but returned without having seen one. - -The boats were now hoisted in, and we made sail to the west, with a -brisk gale at east, which continued till the 9th, when we had, for a few -hours, a breeze at N. W. attended with squalls of rain. This was -succeeded by a steady fresh gale at S. E. with which we steered N. W. -being at this time in the latitude of 20° 20ʹ South, longitude 176° 8ʹ -East. - -On the 15th at noon, being in the latitude of 15° 9ʹ South, longitude -171° 16ʹ East, I steered west. The next day the weather was foggy, and -the wind blew in heavy squalls, attended with rain, which in this ocean, -within the tropics, generally indicates the vicinity of some high land. -This was verified at three in the afternoon, when high land was seen -bearing S. W. Upon this we took in the small sails, reefed the -top-sails, and hauling up for it, at half past five, we could see it -extend from S. S. W. to N. W. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after we tacked and -spent the night, which was very stormy, in plying. Our boards were -disadvantageous; for, in the morning, we found we had lost ground. This, -indeed, was no wonder, for having an old suit of sails bent, the most of -them were split to pieces; particularly a fore-top-sail, which was -rendered quite useless. We got others to the yards, and continued to -ply, being desirous of getting round the south ends of the lands, or at -least so far to the south as to be able to judge of their extent in that -direction. For no one doubted that this was the Australia del Espiritu -Santo of Quiros, which M. de Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades, and -that the coast we were now upon was the east side of Aurora island, -whose longitude is 168° 30ʹ East. - -The gale kept increasing till we were reduced to our low sails; so that, -on the 18th, at seven in the morning, I gave over plying, set the -topsails double-reefed, bore up for, and hauled round the north end of -Aurora island, and then stretched over for the Isle of Lepers, under -close-reefed topsails and courses, with a very hard gale at N. E.; but -we had now the advantage of a smooth sea, having the Isle of Aurora to -windward. At noon the north end of it bore N. E. 1/2 N. distant four -leagues; our latitude, found by double altitudes, and reduced to this -time, was 15° 1ʹ 30ʺ South, longitude 168° 14ʹ East. At two o’clock -P. M. we drew near the middle of the Isle of Lepers, and tacked about -two miles from land; in which situation we had no soundings with a line -of seventy fathoms. We now saw people on the shore, and many beautiful -cascades of water pouring down the neighbouring hills. The next time we -stood for this isle, we came to within half a mile of it, where we found -thirty fathoms, a sandy bottom; but a mile off we had no soundings at -seventy fathoms. Here two canoes came off to us, in one of which were -three men, and in the other but one. Though we made all the signs of -friendship, we could not bring them nearer than a stone’s throw; and -they made but a short stay before they retired ashore, where we saw a -great number of people assembled in parties, and armed with bows and -arrows. They are of a very dark colour, and, excepting some ornaments at -their breast and arms, seemed to be entirely naked. - -As I intended to get to the south, in order to explore the land which -might lie there, we continued to ply between the Isle of Lepers and -Aurora; and on the 19th, at noon, the south end of the last-mentioned -isle bore South 24° East, and the north end north, distant twenty miles. -Latitude observed 15° 11ʺ. The wind continued to blow strong at S. E., -so that what we got by plying in the day, we lost in the night. On the -20th, at sunrise, we found ourselves off the south end of Aurora, on the -N. W. side of which the coast forms a small bay. In this we made some -trips to try for anchorage; but found no less than eighty fathoms water, -the bottom a fine dark sand, at half a mile from shore. Nevertheless, I -am of opinion that, nearer, there is much less depth, and secure riding; -and in the neighbourhood is plenty of fresh water and wood for fuel. The -whole isle, from the sea-shore to the summits of the hills, seemed to be -covered with the latter; and every valley produced a fine stream of the -former. We saw people on the shore, and some canoes on the coast, but -none came off to us. Leaving the bay just mentioned, we stretched across -the channel which divides Aurora from Whitsuntide island. At noon we -were abreast of the north end of this latter, which bore E. N. E. and -observed in 15° 28ʹ 1/2. The Isle of Aurora bore from N. to N. E. 1/2 E. -and the Isle of Lepers from N. by W. 1/2 W. to West. Whitsuntide Isle -appeared joined to the land to the S. and S. W. of it; but in stretching -to S. W. we discovered the separation. This was about four o’clock -P. M., and then we tacked and stretched in for the island till near -sunset, when the wind veering more to the east made it necessary to -resume our course to the south. We saw people on the shore, smokes in -many parts of the island, and several places which seemed to be -cultivated. About midnight, drawing near the south land, we tacked and -stretched to the north, in order to spend the remainder of the night. - -At daybreak on the 21st, we found ourselves before the channel that -divides Whitsuntide island from the south land, which is about two -leagues over. At this time, the land to the southward extended from S. -by E. round to the west farther than the eye could reach, and on the -part nearest to us, which is of considerable height, we observed two -very large columns of smoke, which, I judged, ascended from volcanos. We -now stood S. S. W. with a fine breeze at S. E., and at ten o’clock, -discovered this part of the land to be an island which is called by the -natives Ambrym. Soon after an elevated land appeared open off the south -end of Ambrym; and after that, another still higher, on which is a high -peaked hill. We judged these lands to belong to two separate islands. -The first came in sight at S. E. the second at E. by S., and they -appeared to be ten leagues distant. Holding on our course for the land -ahead, at noon it was five miles distant from us, extending from -S. S. E. to N. W. by W. and appeared to be continued. The islands to the -east bore from N. E. by E. to S. E. by E., latitude observed 16° 17ʹ -South. As we drew nearer the shore we discovered a creek, which had the -appearance of being a good harbour, formed by a low point or peninsula, -projecting out to the north. On this a number of people were assembled, -who seemed to invite us ashore; probably with no good intent, as the -most of them were armed with bows and arrows. In order to gain room and -time to hoist out and arm our boats, to reconnoitre this place, we -tacked and made a trip off, which occasioned the discovery of another -port about a league more to the south. Having sent two armed boats to -sound, and look for anchorage, on their making the signal for the -latter, we sailed in S. S. W. and anchored in eleven fathoms water, not -two cables’ length from the S. E. shore, and a mile within the entrance. - -We had no sooner anchored than several of the natives came off in -canoes. They were very cautious at first; but, at last, trusted -themselves along-side, and exchanged, for pieces of cloth, arrows; some -of which were pointed with bone, and dipped in some green gummy -substance, which we naturally suppose was poisonous. Two men having -ventured on board, after a short stay I sent them away with presents. -Others probably induced by this, came off by moonlight; but I gave -orders to permit none to come along-side; by which means we got clear of -them for the night. - -Next morning early, a good many came round us, some in canoes, and -others swimming. I soon prevailed on one to come on board; which he no -sooner did than he was followed by more than I desired; so that not only -our deck but rigging was presently filled with them. I took four into -the cabin, and gave them various articles, which they showed to those in -the canoes, and seemed much pleased with their reception. While I was -thus making friends with those in the cabin, an accident happened that -threw all into confusion, but in the end, I believe, proved advantageous -to us. A fellow in a canoe having been refused admittance into one of -our boats that lay along-side, bent his bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at -the boat-keeper. Some of his countrymen prevented his doing it that -instant, and gave time to acquaint me with it. I ran instantly on deck, -and saw another man struggling with him; one of those who had been in -the cabin, and had leapt out of the window for this purpose. The other -seemed resolved, shook him off, and directed his bow again to the -boat-keeper; but on my calling to him, pointed it at me. Having a musket -in my hand, loaded with small shot, I gave him the contents. This -staggered him for a moment, but did not prevent him from holding his bow -still in the attitude of shooting. Another discharge of the same nature -made him drop it, and the others, who were in the canoe, to paddle off -with all speed. At this time, some began to shoot arrows on the other -side. A musket discharged in the air had no effect; but a four-pound -shot over their heads sent them off in the utmost confusion. Many -quitted their canoes and swam on shore: those in the great cabin leaped -out of the windows; and those who were on the deck, and on different -parts of the rigging, all leaped over-board. After this we took no -farther notice of them, but suffered them to come off and pick up their -canoes; and some even ventured again along-side the ship. Immediately -after the great gun was fired, we heard the beating of drums on shore; -which was, probably, the signal for the country to assemble in arms. We -now got every thing in readiness to land, to cut some wood, of which we -were in want, and to try to get some refreshments, nothing of this kind -having been seen in any of the canoes. - -About nine o’clock, we put off in two boats, and landed in the face of -four or five hundred people, who were assembled on the shore. Though -they were all armed with bows and arrows, clubs and spears, they made -not the least opposition. On the contrary, seeing me advance alone, with -nothing but a green branch in my hand, one of them, who seemed to be a -chief, giving his bow and arrows to another, met me in the water, -bearing also a green branch, which having exchanged for the one I held, -he then took me by the hand, and led me up to the crowd. I immediately -distributed presents to them, and, in the mean time, the marines were -drawn upon the beach. I then made signs (for we understood not a word of -their language) that we wanted wood; and they made signs to us to cut -down the trees. By this time, a small pig being brought down and -presented to me, I gave the bearer a piece of cloth, with which he -seemed well pleased. This made us hope that we should soon have some -more; but we were mistaken. The pig was not brought to be exchanged for -what we had, but on some other account; probably as a peace-offering. -For all we could say or do did not prevail on them to bring down, after -this, above half-a-dozen cocoa-nuts, and a small quantity of fresh -water. They set no value on nails, or any sort of iron tools; nor indeed -on any thing we had. They would, now and then, exchange an arrow for a -piece of cloth; but very seldom would part with a bow. They were -unwilling we should go off the beach, and very desirous we should return -on board. At length, about noon, after sending what wood we had cut on -board, we embarked ourselves; and they all retired, some one way and -some another. - -Before we had dined, the afternoon was too far spent to do any thing on -shore; and all hands were employed, setting up the rigging, and -repairing some defects in it. But seeing a man bring along the strand a -buoy, which they had taken in the night from the kedge-anchor, I went on -shore for it, accompanied by some of the gentlemen. The moment we -landed, it was put into the boat, by a man who walked off again without -speaking one word. It ought to be observed, that this was the only thing -they took, or even attempted to take from us, by any means whatever. -Being landed near some of their plantations and houses, which were just -within the skirts of the woods, I prevailed on one man to conduct me to -them; but, though they suffered Mr. Forster to go with me, they were -unwilling any more should follow. These houses were something like those -of the other isles; rather low, and covered with palm thatch; some were -inclosed, or walled round with boards; and the entrance to these was by -a square hole at one end, which at this time was shut up, and they were -unwilling to open it for us to look in. There were here about six -houses, and some small plantations of roots, &c. fenced round with reeds -as at the Friendly Isles. There were, likewise, some bread-fruit, -cocoa-nut, and plaintain-trees; but very little fruit on any of them. A -good many fine yams were piled up upon sticks, or a kind of raised -platform; and about twenty pigs, and a few fowls, were running about -loose. After making these observations, having embarked, we proceeded to -the S. E. point of the harbour, where we again landed and walked along -the beach till we could see the islands to the S. E. already mentioned. -The names of these we now obtained, as well as the name of that on which -we were. This they called Mallicollo[2]: the island that first appeared -over the south end of Ambrym is called Apee; and the other, with the -hill on it, Paoom. We found on the beach a fruit like an orange, called -by them Abbi-mora, but whether it be fit for eating, I cannot say, as -this was decayed. - -Proceeding next to the other side of the harbour, we there landed, near -a few houses, at the invitation of some people who came down to the -shore; but we had not been there five minutes before they wanted us to -be gone. We complied, and proceeded up the harbour in order to sound it, -and to look for fresh water, of which, as yet, we had seen none, but the -very little that the natives brought, which we knew not where they got. -Nor was our search now attended with success; but this is no proof that -there is not any. The day was too far spent to examine the place well -enough to determine this point. Night having brought us on board, I was -informed that no soul had been off to the ship; so soon was the -curiosity of these people satisfied. As we were coming on board, we -heard the sound of a drum, and, I think, of some other instruments, and -saw people dancing; but as soon as they heard the noise of the oars, or -saw us, all was silent. - -Being unwilling to lose the benefit of the moonlight nights, which now -happened, at seven A. M. on the 23d we weighed; and, with a light air of -wind, and the assistance of our boats, proceeded out of the harbour; the -south end of which, at noon, bore W. S. W. distant about two miles. - -When the natives saw us under sail, they came off in canoes, making -exchanges with more confidence than before, and giving such -extraordinary proofs of their honesty as surprised us. As the ship at -first had fresh way through the water, several of them dropped astern -after they had received our goods, and before they had time to deliver -theirs in return. Instead of taking advantage of this, as our friends at -the Society Isles would have done, they used their utmost efforts to get -up with us, and to deliver what they had already been paid for. One man, -in particular, followed us a considerable time, and did not reach us -till it was calm, and the thing was forgotten. As soon as he came -along-side, he held up the thing which several were ready to buy; but he -refused to part with it, till he saw the person to whom he had before -sold it, and to him he gave it. The person not knowing him again, -offered him something in return, which he refused, and showed him what -he had given him before. Pieces of cloth and marbled paper were in most -esteem with them; but edge tools, nails, and beads, they seemed to -disregard. The greatest number of canoes we had alongside at once did -not exceed eight, and not more than four or five people in each; who -would frequently retire to the shore all on a sudden, before they had -disposed of half their things, and then others would come off. - -At the time we came out of the harbour, it was about low water, and -great numbers of people were then on the shoals or reefs which lie along -the shore, looking, as we supposed, for shell and other fish. Thus our -being on their coast, and in one of their ports, did not hinder them -from following the necessary employments. By this time they might be -satisfied we meant them no harm; so that, had we made a longer stay, we -might soon have been upon good terms with this ape-like nation; for, in -general, they are the most ugly, ill-proportioned people I ever saw, and -in every respect different from any we had met with in this sea. They -are a very dark-coloured and rather diminutive race; with long heads, -flat faces, and monkey countenances. Their hair mostly black or brown, -is short and curly; but not quite so soft and woolly as that of a negro. -Their beards are very strong, crisp, and bushy, and generally black and -short. But what most adds to their deformity, is a belt, or cord, which -they wear round the waist, and tie so tight over the belly that the -shape of their bodies is not unlike that of an overgrown pismire. The -men go quite naked, except a piece of cloth or leaf used as a -wrapper.[3] - -We saw but few women, and they were not less ugly than the men; their -heads, faces, and shoulders are painted red; they wear a kind of -petticoat; and some of them had something over their shoulders like a -bag, in which they carry their children. None of them came off to the -ship, and they generally kept at a distance when we were on shore. Their -ornaments are ear-rings made of tortoise-shell and bracelets. A curious -one of the latter, four or five inches broad, wrought with thread or -cord, and studded with shells, is worn by them just above the elbow. -Round the right wrist they wear hogs’ tusks bent circular, and rings -made of shells; and round their left, a round piece of wood, which we -judged was to ward off the bow-string. The bridge of the nose is -pierced, in which they wear a piece of white stone, about an inch and a -half long, and in this shape. [Illustration] As signs of friendship they -present a green branch, and sprinkle water with the hand over the head. - -Their weapons are clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. The two former are -made of hard or iron wood. Their bows are about four feet long, made of -a stick split down the middle, and are not circular, but in this form. -[Illustration] The arrows, which are a sort of reeds, are sometimes -armed with a long and sharp point, made of the hard wood, and sometimes -with a very hard point made of bone; and these points are all covered -with a substance which we took for poison. Indeed, the people themselves -confirmed our suspicions, by making signs to us not to touch the point, -and giving us to understand, that if we were pricked by them we should -die. They are very careful of them themselves, and keep them always -wrapped up in a quiver. Some of these arrows are armed with two or three -points, each with small prickles on the edges, to prevent the arrow -being drawn out of the wound. - -The people of Mallicollo seemed to be a quite different nation from any -we had yet met with, and speak a different language. Of about eighty -words which Mr. Forster collected, hardly one bears any affinity to the -language spoken at any other island or place I had ever been at. The -letter R is used in many of their words; and frequently two or three -being joined together, such words we found difficult to pronounce. I -observed that they could pronounce most of our words with great ease. -They express their admiration by hissing like a goose. - -To judge of the country by the little we saw of it, it must be fertile; -but I believe their fruits are not so good as those of the Society or -Friendly Isles. Their cocoa-nut trees, I am certain, are not; and their -bread-fruit and plantains did not seem much better. But their yams -appeared to be very good. We saw no other animals than those I have -already mentioned. They have not so much as a name for a dog, and -consequently have none; for which reason we left them a dog and a bitch; -and there is no doubt they will be taken care of, as they were very fond -of them. - -After we had got to sea, we tried what effect one of the poisoned arrows -would have on a dog. Indeed we had tried it in the harbour the very -first night, but we thought the operation had been too slight, as it had -no effect. The surgeon now made a deep incision in the dog’s thigh, into -which he laid a large portion of the poison just as it was scraped from -the arrows, and then bound up the wound with a bandage. For several days -after, we thought the dog was not so well as he had been before; but -whether this was really so, or only suggested by imagination, I know -not. He was afterwards as if nothing had been done to him, and lived to -be brought home to England. However, I have no doubt of this stuff being -of a poisonous quality, as it could answer no other purpose. The people -seemed not unacquainted with the nature of poison; for when they brought -us water on shore, they first tasted it, and then gave us to understand -we might with safety drink it. - -This harbour, which is situated on the N. E. side of Mallicollo, not far -from the S. E. end, in latitude 16° 25ʹ 20ʺ S., longitude 167° 57ʹ 23ʺ -E., I named Port Sandwich. It lies in S. W. by S. about one league, and -is one-third of a league broad. A reef of rocks extends out a little way -from each point; but the channel is of a good breadth, and hath in it -from forty to twenty-four fathoms water. In the port, the depth of water -is from twenty to four fathoms; and it is so sheltered that no winds can -disturb a ship at anchor there. Another great advantage is, you can lie -so near the shore as to cover your people who may be at work upon it. - - - - - CHAP. IV. - - AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF SEVERAL ISLANDS, AN INTERVIEW AND -SKIRMISH WITH THE INHABITANTS UPON ONE OF THEM. THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP - AT TANNA, AND THE RECEPTION WE MET WITH THERE. - - -Soon after we got to sea, we had a breeze at E. S. E. with which we -stood over for Ambrym till three o’clock in the afternoon, when the wind -veering to E. N. E. we tacked and stretched to the S. E. and weathered -the S. E. end of Mallicollo, off which we discovered three or four small -islands, that before appeared to be connected. At sun-set the point bore -S. 77° West, distant three leagues, from which the coast seemed to trend -away West. At this time the isle of Ambrym extended from N. 30° E. to N. -65° E. The isle of Paoom from N. 76° E. to S. 88° E. and the isle of -Apee from S. 83° E. to S. 43° East. We stood for this last isle, which -we reached by midnight, and then brought to till day-break on the 24th, -when we made sail to the S. E. with a view of plying up to the eastward -on the south side of Apee. At sun-rise, we discovered several more -islands, extending from the S. E. point of Apee to the South as far as -S. E. by S. The nearest to us we reached by ten o’clock, and not being -able to weather it, we tacked a mile from its shore in fourteen fathoms -water. This island is about 4 leagues in circuit, is remarkable by -having three high peaked hills upon it, by which it has obtained that -name. In the P. M. the wind veering more to the north, we resumed our -course to the east; and having weathered Threehills, stood for the group -of small isles which lie off the S. E. point of Apee. These I called -Shepherd’s Isles, in honour of my worthy friend Dr. Shepherd, Plumian -professor of astronomy at Cambridge. Having a fine breeze, I had -thoughts of going through between them; but the channels being narrow, -and seeing broken water in the one we were steering for, I gave up the -design, and bore up, in order to go without, or to the south of them. -Before this could be accomplished, it fell calm, and we were left to the -mercy of the current, close to the isles, where we could find no -soundings with a line of an hundred and eighty fathoms. We had now lands -or islands in every direction, and were not able to count the number -which lay round us. The mountain on Paoom was seen over the east end of -Apee, bearing N. N. W. at eight o’clock. A breeze at S. E. relieved us -from the anxiety the calm had occasioned; and we spent the night making -short boards. - -The night before we came out of Port Sandwich, two reddish fish, about -the size of large bream, and not unlike them, were caught with hook and -line. On these fish most of the officers, and some of the petty -officers, dined the next day. The night following, every one who had -eaten of them was seized with violent pains in the head and bones, -attended with a scorching heat all over the skin, and numbness in the -joints. There remained no doubt that this was occasioned by the fish -being of a poisonous nature, and having communicated its bad effects to -all who partook of them; even to the hogs and dogs. One of the former -died about sixteen hours after; it was not long before one of the latter -shared the same fate; and it was a week or ten days, before all the -gentlemen recovered. These must have been the same sort of fish -mentioned by Quiros[4], under the name of Pargos, which poisoned the -crews of his ships, so that it was some time before they recovered; and -we should, doubtless, have been in the same situation, had more of them -been eaten. - -At day-break on the 25th, we made a short stretch to the east of -Shepherd’s Isles till after sun-rise, when, seeing no more land in that -direction, we tacked and stood for the island we had seen in the south, -having a gentle breeze at S. E. We passed to the east of Threehills, and -likewise of a low isle, which lies on the S. E. side of it, between a -remarkable peaked rock which obtained the name of Monument, and a small -island named Twohills, on account of two peaked hills upon it, disjoined -by a low and narrow isthmus. The channel between this island and the -Monument is near a mile broad, and twenty-four fathoms deep. Except this -rock, which is only accessible to birds, we did not find an island on -which people were not seen. At noon, we observed, in latitude 17° 18ʹ -30ʺ longitude, made from Port Sandwich, 45ʹ East. In this situation the -Monument bore N. 16° East, distant two miles; Twohills bore N. 25° West, -distant two miles, and in a line with the S. W. part of Threehills; and -the islands to the South extended from S. 16° 30ʹ E. to S. 42° West. - -Continuing our course to the south, at five P. M. we drew near the -southern lands, which we found to consist of one large island, whose -southern and western extremities extended beyond our sight, and three or -four smaller ones, lying off its north side. The two northernmost are -much the largest, have a good height, and lie in the direction of E. by -S. and W. by N. from each other, distant two leagues. I named the one -Montagu, and the other Hinchinbrook, and the large island Sandwich, in -honour of my noble patron the earl of Sandwich. Seeing broken water -a-head between Montagu and Hinchinbrook Isles, we tacked; and soon after -it fell calm. The calm continued till seven o’clock the next morning, -when it was succeeded by a breeze from the westward. During the calm, -having been carried by the currents and a S. E. swell, four leagues to -the W. N. W. we passed Hinchinbrook Isle, saw the western extremity of -Sandwich Island, bearing S. S. W. about five leagues distant, and at the -same time discovered a small island to the west of this direction. After -getting the westerly breeze, I steered S. E. in order to pass between -Montagu Isle and the north end of Sandwich Island. At noon we were in -the middle of the channel, and observed in latitude 17° 31ʹ South. The -distance from one island to the other is about four or five miles; but -the channel is not much above half that breadth, being contracted by -breakers. We had no soundings in it with a line of forty fathoms. - -As we passed Montagu Isle several people came down to the sea-side, and, -by signs, seemed to invite us ashore. Some were also seen on Sandwich -Island, which exhibited a most delightful prospect, being spotted with -woods and lawns, agreeably diversified, over the whole surface. It hath -a gentle slope from the hills, which are of a moderate height, down to -the sea-coast. This is low and guarded by a chain of breakers, so that -there is no approaching it at this part. But more to the west, beyond -Hinchinbrook Island, there seemed to run in a bay sheltered from the -reigning winds. The examining it not being so much an object with me as -the getting to the south, in order to find the southern extremity of the -Archipelago, with this view I steered S. S. E. being the direction of -the coast of Sandwich Island. We had but just got through the passage, -before the west wind left us to variable light airs and calms; so that -we were apprehensive of being carried back again by the currents, or -rather of being obliged to return in order to avoid being driven on the -shoals, as there was no anchorage, a line of an hundred and sixty -fathoms not reaching to the bottom. At length a breeze springing up at -S. W. we stood to S. E. and at sun-set the Monument bore N. 14° 30ʹ -West, and Montagu Island N. 28° West, distant three leagues. We judged -we saw the S. E. extremity of Sandwich Island bearing about S. by E. - -We continued to stand to S. E. till four A. M. on the 27th, when we -tacked to the west. At sun-rise having discovered a new land bearing -south, and making in three hills, this occasioned us to tack and stand -towards it. At this time Montagu Isle bore N. 52° West, distant thirteen -leagues; at noon it was nearly in the same direction, and the new land -extended from S. 1/2 E. to S. by W. and three hills seemed to be -connected. Our latitude, by observation, was 18° 1ʹ S. and the -longitude, made from Port Sandwich, 1° 23ʹ E. We continued to stand to -the S. E. with a gentle breeze at S. W. and S. S. W. till the 28th at -sun-rise, when, the wind veering to the south, we tacked and stood to -the west. The three hills mentioned above, we now saw belonged to one -island, which extended from S. 35° to 71° West, distant about ten or -twelve leagues. - -Retarded by contrary winds, calms, and the currents that set to N. W., -we were three days in gaining this space; in which time we discovered an -elevated land to the south of this. It first appeared in detached -hummocks, but we judged it to be connected. At length, on the 1st of -August, about ten A. M. we got a fine breeze at E. S. E. which soon -after veered to N. E. and we steered for the N. W. side of the island. -Reaching it about two P. M. we ranged the west coast at one mile from -shore, on which the inhabitants appeared in several parts, and by signs -invited us to land. We continued to sound without finding bottom, till -we came before a small bay, or bending of the coast, where, near a mile -from shore, we found thirty and twenty-two fathoms water, a sandy -bottom. I had thoughts of anchoring here, but the wind almost instantly -veered to N. W., which being nearly on shore, I laid this design aside. -Besides, I was unwilling to lose the opportunity that now offered of -getting to the south-east, in order first to explore the lands which lay -there. I therefore continued to range the coast to the south, at about -the same distance from shore; but we soon got out of soundings. About a -league to the south of this bay, which hath about two miles extent, is -another more extensive. Towards the evening, the breeze began to abate, -so that it was sun-set before we got the length of it. I intended not to -stop here, and stand to the south under an easy sail all night, but at -eight o’clock, as we were steering S. S. E. we saw a light a-head. Not -knowing but it might be on some low detached isle, dangerous to approach -while dark, we hauled the wind, and spent the night standing off and on, -or rather driving to and fro; for we had but very little wind. - -At sun-rise on the 2d, we saw no more land than the coast we were upon; -but found that the currents had carried us some miles to the north, and -we attempted, to little purpose, to regain what we had lost. At noon we -were about a league from the coast, which extended from S. S. E. to -N. E. Latitude observed 18° 46ʹ S. In the afternoon, finding the ship to -drift, not only to the north, but in shore also, and being yet to the -south of the bay we passed the day before, I had thoughts of getting to -an anchor before night, while we had it in our power to make choice of a -place. With this view, having hoisted out two boats, one of them was -sent a-head to tow the ship; in the other Mr. Gilbert went, to sound for -anchorage. Soon after, the towing boat was sent to assist him. So much -time was spent in sounding this bay, that the ship drove past, which -made it necessary to call the boats on board to tow her off from the -northern point. But this service was performed by a breeze of wind, -which, that moment, sprung up at S. W., so that as the boats got on -board, we hoisted them in, and then bore up for the north side of the -island, intending once more to try to get round by the east. Mr. Gilbert -informed me, that, at the south part of the bay, he found no soundings -till close to a steep stone beach, where he landed to taste a stream of -water he saw there, which proved to be salt. Some people were seen -there, but they kept at a distance. Farther down the coast, that is to -the north, he found twenty, twenty-four, and thirty fathoms, -three-fourths of a mile, or a mile from shore, the bottom a fine dark -sand. - -On the 3d, at sun-rise, we found ourselves abreast a lofty promontory on -the S. E. side of the island, and about three leagues from it. Having -but little wind, and that from the south, right in our teeth, and being -in want of fire-wood, I sent Lieutenant Clerke with two boats to a small -islot which lies off the promontory, to endeavour to get some. In the -mean time we continued to ply up with the ship; but what we gained by -our sails, we lost by the current. At length, towards noon, we got a -breeze at E. S. E. and E. with which we could lie up for the head; and -soon after Mr. Clerke returned, having not been able to land, on account -of an high surf on the shore. They met with no people on the isle; but -saw a large bat, and some birds, and caught a water-snake. At six -o’clock P. M. we got in with the land, under the N. W. side of the head, -where we anchored in seventeen fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark -sand, half a mile from shore; the point of the head bearing N. 18° East, -distant half a league; the little islot before mentioned N. E. by E. 1/2 -E. and the N. W. point of the bay N. 32° West. Many people appeared on -the shore, and some attempted to swim off to us; but having occasion to -send the boat a-head to sound, they retired as she drew near them. This, -however, gave us a favourable idea of them. - -On the 4th, at day-break, I went with two boats to examine the coast, to -look for a proper landing-place, wood, and water. At this time, the -natives began to assemble on the shore, and by signs invited us to land. -I went first to a small beach, which is towards the head, where I found -no good landing, on account of some rocks which every where lined the -coast. I, however, put the boat’s bow to the shore, and gave cloth, -medals, &c. to some people who were there. For this treatment they -offered to haul the boats over the breakers to the sandy beach; which I -thought a friendly offer, but had reason afterwards to alter my opinion. -When they found I would not do as they desired, they made signs for us -to go down into the bay, which we accordingly did, and they ran along -shore abreast of us, their number increasing prodigiously. I put into -the shore in two or three places, but, not liking the situation, did not -land. By this time, I believe, the natives conceived what I wanted, as -they directed me round a rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, I -stepped out of the boat without wetting a foot, in the face of a vast -multitude, with only a green branch in my hand, which I had before got -from one of them. I took but one man out of the boat with me, and -ordered the other boat to lie to a little distance off. They received me -with great courtesy and politeness, and would retire back from the boat -on my making the least motion with my hand. A man whom I took to be a -chief, seeing this, made them form a semicircle round the boat’s bow, -and beat such as attempted to break through this order. This man I -loaded with presents, giving likewise to others, and asked by signs for -fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they got it. The chief immediately -sent a man for some, who ran to a house, and presently returned with a -little in a bamboo; so that I gained but little information by this. I -next asked, by the same means, for something to eat; and they as readily -brought me a yam, and some cocoa-nuts. In short, I was charmed with -their behaviour; and the only thing which could give the least suspicion -was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, and bows -and arrows. For this reason I kept my eye continually upon the chief, -and watched his looks as well as his actions. He made many signs to me -to haul the boat up upon the shore, and at last slipped into the crowd, -where I observed him speak to several people, and then return to me, -repeating signs to haul the boat up, and hesitating a good deal before -he would receive some spike-nails which I then offered him. This made me -suspect something was intended, and immediately I stepped into the boat, -telling them by signs that I should soon return. But they were not for -parting so soon, and now attempted, by force, what they could not obtain -by gentler means. The gang-board happened unluckily to be laid out for -me to come into the boat. I say unluckily, for if it had not been out, -and if the crew had been a little quicker in getting the boat off, the -natives might not have had time to put their design in execution, nor -would the following disagreeable scene have happened. As we were putting -off the boat, they laid hold of the gang-board, and unhooked it off the -boat’s stern, but as they did not take it away, I thought this had been -done by accident, and ordered the boat in again to take it up. Then they -themselves hooked it over the boat’s stern, and attempted to haul her -ashore; others, at the same time, snatched the oars out of the people’s -hands. On my pointing a musket at them, they in some measure desisted, -but returned in an instant, seemingly determined to haul the boat -ashore. At the head of this party was the chief; the others, who could -not come at the boat, stood behind with darts, stones, and bows and -arrows in hand, ready to support them. Signs and threats having no -effect, our own safety became the only consideration; and yet I was -unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to make the chief alone -fall a victim to his own treachery; but my musket at this critical -moment missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of the arms we -held in our hands, they must now have looked upon them as childish -weapons, and began to let us see how much better theirs were, by -throwing stones and darts, and by shooting arrows. This made it -absolutely necessary for me to give orders to fire. The first discharge -threw them into confusion; but a second was hardly sufficient to drive -them off the beach; and, after all, they continued to throw stones from -behind the trees and bushes, and, every now and then, to pop out and -throw a dart. Four lay, to all appearance, dead on the shore; but two of -them afterwards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for these people, -that not half our muskets would go off, otherwise many more must have -fallen. We had one man wounded in the cheek with a dart, the point of -which was as thick as my finger, and yet it entered above two inches; -which shews that it must have come with great force, though indeed we -were very near them. An arrow struck Mr. Gilbert’s naked breast, who was -about thirty yards off; but probably it had struck something before; for -it hardly penetrated the skin. The arrows were pointed with hard wood. - -As soon as we got on board, I ordered the anchor to be weighed, with a -view of anchoring near the landing-place. While this was doing, several -people appeared on the low rocky point, displaying two oars we had lost -in the scuffle. I looked on this as a sign of submission, and of their -wanting to give us the oars. I was, nevertheless, prevailed on to fire a -four pound shot at them, to let them see the effect of our great guns. -The ball fell short, but frightened them so much, that none were seen -afterwards; and they left the oars standing up against the bushes. - -It was now calm; but the anchor was hardly at the bow before a breeze -sprung up at north, of which we took the advantage, set our sails, and -plyed out of the bay, as it did not seem capable of supplying our wants, -with that conveniency I wished to have. Besides, I always had it in my -power to return to this place, in case I should find none more -convenient farther south. - -These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of Mallicollo, -and spoke a different language. They are of the middle size, have a good -shape, and tolerable features. Their colour is very dark, and they paint -their faces, some with black, and others with red pigment. Their hair is -very curly and crisp, and somewhat woolly. I saw a few women, and I -thought them ugly; they wore a kind of petticoat made of palm leaves, or -some plant like it. But the men, like those of Mallicollo, were in a -manner naked; having only the belt about the waist, and the piece of -cloth, or leaf, used as a wrapper.[5] I saw no canoes with these people, -nor were any seen in any part of this island. They live in houses -covered with thatch, and their plantations are laid out by line, and -fenced round. - -At two o’clock in the afternoon, we were clear of the bay, bore up round -the head, and steered S. S. E. for the south end of the island, having a -fine breeze at N. W. On the S. W. side of the head is a pretty deep bay, -which seemed to run in behind the one on the N. W. side. Its shores are -low, and the adjacent lands appeared very fertile. It is exposed to the -S. E. winds; for which reason, until it be better known, the N. W. bay -is preferable, because it is sheltered from the reigning winds; and the -winds to which it is open, viz. from N. W. by N. to E. by N. seldom blow -strong. The promontory, or peninsula, which disjoins these two bays, I -named Traitor’s Head, from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants. -It is the N. E. point of the island, situated in the latitude 18° 43ʹ -south, longitude 169° 28ʹ east, and terminates in a saddle hill which is -of height sufficient to be seen sixteen or eighteen leagues. As we -advanced to S. S. E., the new island we had before discovered began to -appear over the S. E. point of the one near us, bearing S. 1/2 E. -distant ten or twelve leagues. After leaving this one, we steered for -the East end of the other, being directed by a great light we saw upon -it. - -At one o’clock the next morning, drawing near the shore, we tacked, and -spent the remainder of the night making short boards. At sun-rise, we -discovered a high table land (an island) bearing E. by S., and a small -low isle in the direction of N. N. E. which we had passed in the night -without seeing it. Traitor’s Head was still in sight, bearing N. 20° -West, distant fifteen leagues, and the island to the south extended from -S. 7° West to S. 87° West, distant three or four miles. We then found -that the light we had seen in the night, was occasioned by a volcano, -which we observed to throw up vast quantities of fire and smoke, with a -rumbling noise heard at a great distance. We now made sail for the -island; and, presently after, discovered a small inlet which had the -appearance of being a good harbour. In order to be better informed, I -sent away two armed boats, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, to -sound it; and, in the mean while, we stood on and off with the ship, to -be ready to follow, or give them any assistance they might want. On the -east point of the entrance, we observed a number of people, and several -houses and canoes; and when our boats entered the harbour they launched -some, and followed them, but came not near. It was not long before Mr. -Cooper made the signal for anchorage; and we stood in with the ship. The -wind being at west, and our course S. S. W., we borrowed close to the -west point, and passed over some sunken rocks, which might have been -avoided by keeping a little more to the east, or about one-third channel -over. The wind left us as soon as we were within the entrance, and -obliged us to drop an anchor in four fathoms water. After this, the -boats were sent again to sound; and, in the mean time, the launch was -hoisted out, in order to carry out anchors to warp in by, as soon as we -should be acquainted with the channel. - -While we were thus employed, many of the natives got together in -parties, on several parts of the shore, all armed with bows, spears, &c. -Some swam off to us, others came in canoes. At first they were shy, and -kept at the distance of a stone’s throw; they grew insensibly bolder; -and, at last, came under our stern, and made some exchanges. The people -in one of the first canoes, after coming as near as they durst, threw -towards us some cocoa-nuts. I went into a boat and picked them up, -giving them in return some cloth and other articles. This induced others -to come under the stern, and alongside, where their behaviour was -insolent and daring. They wanted to carry off every thing within their -reach; they got hold of the fly of the ensign, and would have torn it -from the staff; others attempted to knock the rings off the rudder; but -the greatest trouble they gave us was to look after the buoys of our -anchors, which were no sooner thrown out of the boats, or let go from -the ship, than they got hold of them. A few musquets fired in the air -had no effect; but a four-pounder frightened them so much, that they -quitted their canoes that instant, and took to the water. But as soon as -they found themselves unhurt, they got again into their canoes; gave us -some halloos; flourished their weapons; and returned once more to the -buoys. This put us to the expence of a few musketoon shot, which had the -desired effect. Although none were hurt, they were afterwards afraid to -come near the buoys; very soon all retired on shore; and we were -permitted to sit down to dinner undisturbed. - -During these transactions, a friendly old man in a small canoe made -several trips between us and the shore, bringing off each time a few -cocoa-nuts, or a yam, and taking in exchange whatever we gave him. -Another was on the gangway when the great gun was fired, but I could not -prevail on him to stay there long. Towards the evening, after the ship -was moored, I landed at the head of the harbour, in the S. E. corner, -with a strong party of men, without any opposition being made by a great -number of the natives who were assembled in two parties, the one on our -right, the other on our left, armed with clubs, darts, spears, slings, -and stones, bows and arrows, &c. After distributing to the old people, -(for we could distinguish no chief,) and some others, presents of cloth, -medals, &c., I ordered two casks to be filled with water out of a pond -about twenty paces behind the landing-place; giving the natives to -understand, that this was one of the articles we wanted. Besides water, -we got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to be in plenty on the -trees; but they could not be prevailed upon to part with any of their -weapons. These they held in constant readiness, and in the proper -attitudes of offence and defence; so that little was wanting to make -them attack us; at least we thought so, by their pressing so much upon -us, and in spite of our endeavours to keep them off. Our early -re-embarking probably disconcerted their scheme; and after that, they -all retired. The friendly old man before mentioned, was in one of these -parties; and we judged, from his conduct, that his temper was pacific. - - - - - CHAP. V. - -AN INTERCOURSE ESTABLISHED WITH THE NATIVES; SOME ACCOUNT OF THE ISLAND; - AND A VARIETY OF INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED DURING OUR STAY AT IT. - - -As we wanted to take in a large quantity both of wood and water, and as, -when I was on shore, I had found it practicable to lay the ship much -nearer the landing-place than she now was, which would greatly -facilitate that work, as well as over-awe the natives, and enable us -better to cover and protect the working party on shore; with this view, -on the 6th, we went to work to transport the ship to the place I -designed to moor her in. While we were about this, we observed the -natives assembling from all parts, and forming themselves into two -parties, as they did the preceding evening, one on each side the -landing-place, to the amount of some thousands, armed as before. A -canoe, sometimes conducted by one, and at other times by two or three -men, now and then came off, bringing a few cocoa-nuts or plantains. -These they gave us without asking for any return; but I took care that -they should always have something. Their chief design seemed to be to -invite us on shore. One of those who came off was the old man who had -already ingratiated himself into our favour. I made him understand, by -signs, that they were to lay aside their weapons, took those which were -in the canoe and threw them overboard, and made him a present of a large -piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood me, and made my -request known to his countrymen. For as soon as he landed we observed -him to go first to the one party, and then to the other; nor was he, -ever after, seen by us with any thing like a weapon in his hand. After -this, three fellows came in a canoe under the stern, one of them -brandishing a club, with which he struck the ship’s side, and committed -other acts of defiance, but at last offered to exchange it for a string -of beads, and some other trifles. These were sent down to him by a line; -but the moment they were in his possession, he and his companions -paddled off in all haste, without giving the club, or any thing else, in -return. This was what I expected, and indeed what I was not sorry for, -as I wanted an opportunity to show the multitude on shore the effect of -our fire-arms, without materially hurting any of them. Having a -fowling-piece, loaded with small shot, (No. 8.) I gave the fellow the -contents; and, when they were above musket-shot off, I ordered some of -the musketoons, or wall-pieces, to be fired, which made them leap out of -the canoe, keep under her off side, and swim with her ashore. This -transaction seemed to make little or no impression on the people there. -On the contrary, they began to halloo, and to make sport of it. - -After mooring the ship, by four anchors, with her broadside to the -landing-place, hardly a musket-shot off, and placing our artillery in -such a manner as to command the whole harbour, I embarked with the -marines, and a party of seamen, in three boats, and rowed in for the -shore. It hath been already mentioned, that the two divisions of the -natives were drawn up on each side the landing-place. They had left a -space between them of about thirty or forty yards, in which were laid, -to the most advantage, a few small bunches of plantains, a yam, and two -or three roots. Between these and the water were stuck upright in the -sand, for what purpose I never could learn, four small reeds, about two -feet from each other, in a line at right angles to the shore, where they -remained for two or three days after. The old man before mentioned, and -two more, stood by these things, inviting us, by signs, to land; but I -had not forgot the trap I was so near being caught in at the last -island; and this looked something like it. We answered, by making signs -for the two divisions to retire farther back, and give us more room. The -old man seemed to desire them so to do, but no more regard was paid to -him than to us. More were continually joining them, and, except two or -three old men, not one unarmed. In short, every thing conspired to make -us believe they meant to attack us as soon as we should be on shore; the -consequence of which was easily supposed; many of them must have been -killed and wounded, and we should hardly have escaped unhurt; two things -I equally wished to prevent. Since, therefore, they would not give us -the room we required, I thought it was better to frighten them into it, -than to oblige them by the deadly effect of our fire-arms. I accordingly -ordered a musket to be fired over the party on our right, which was by -far the strongest body; but the alarm it gave them was momentary. In an -instant they recovered themselves, and began to display their weapons. -One fellow showed us his backside, in a manner which plainly conveyed -his meaning. After this I ordered three or four muskets to be fired. -This was the signal for the ship to fire a few great guns, which -presently dispersed them; and then we landed, and marked out the limits, -on the right and left, by a line. Our old friend stood his ground, -though deserted by his two companions, and I rewarded his confidence -with a present. The natives came gradually to us, seemingly in a more -friendly manner; some even without their weapons, but by far the -greatest part brought them; and when we made signs to lay them down, -they gave us to understand that we must lay down ours first. Thus all -parties stood armed. The presents I made to the old people, and to such -as seemed to be of consequence, had little effect on their conduct. They -indeed climbed the cocoa-nut trees, and threw us down the nuts, without -requiring any thing for them; but I took care that they should always -have somewhat in return. I observed that many were afraid to touch what -belonged to us; and they seemed to have no notion of exchanging one -thing for another. I took the old man, whose name we now found to be -Paowang, to the woods, and made him understand, I wanted to cut down -some trees to take on board the ship; cutting some down at the same -time, which we put into one of our boats, together with a few small -casks of water, with a view of letting the people see what it was we -chiefly wanted. Paowang very readily gave his consent to cut wood; nor -was there any one who made the least objection. He only desired the -cocoa-nut trees might not be cut down. Matters being thus settled, we -embarked and returned on board to dinner, and, immediately after, they -all dispersed. I never learnt that any one was hurt by our shot, either -on this or the preceding day; which was a very happy circumstance. In -the afternoon, having landed again, we loaded the launch with water, and -having made three hauls with the seine, caught upwards of three hundred -pounds of mullet and other fish. It was some time before any of the -natives appeared, and not above twenty or thirty at last, amongst whom -was our trusty friend Paowang, who made us a present of a small pig, -which was the only one we got at this isle, or that was offered us. - -During the night, the volcano, which was about four miles to the west of -us, vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as it had also done -the night before; and the flames were seen to rise above the hill which -lay between us and it. At every eruption, it made a long rumbling noise -like that of thunder, or the blowing up of large mines. A heavy shower -of rain, which fell at this time, seemed to increase it; and the wind -blowing from the same quarter, the air was loaded with its ashes, which -fell so thick, that every thing was covered with the dust. It was a kind -of fine sand or stone, ground or burnt to powder, and was exceedingly -troublesome to the eyes. - -Early in the morning of the 7th, the natives began again to assemble -near the watering-place, armed as usual, but not in such numbers as at -first. After breakfast we landed, in order to cut wood and fill water. I -found many of the islanders much inclined to be friends with us, -especially the old people; on the other hand, most of the younger were -daring and insolent, and obliged us to keep to our arms. I staid till I -saw no disturbance was like to happen, and then returned to the ship, -leaving the party under the command of Lieutenants Clerke and Edgcumbe. -When they came on board to dinner, they informed me that the people -continued to behave in the same inconsistent manner as in the morning; -but more especially one man, whom Mr. Edgcumbe was obliged to fire at, -and believed he had struck with a swan-shot. After that, the others -behaved with more discretion; and as soon as our people embarked, they -all retired. While we were sitting at dinner, an old man came on board, -looked into many parts of the ship, and then went ashore again. - -In the afternoon, only a few of those who lived in the neighbourhood, -with whom we were now upon a tolerable footing, made their appearance at -the watering-place. Paowang brought us an axe which had been left by our -people, either in the woods or on the beach, and found by some of the -natives. A few other articles were afterwards returned to us, which -either they had stolen, or we had lost by our negligence. So careful -were they now not to offend us in this respect. - -Early the next morning, I sent the launch, protected by a party of -marines in another boat, to take in ballast, which we wanted. This work -was done before breakfast; and after it, she was sent for wood and -water, and with her the people employed in this service under the -protection of a serjeant’s guard, which was now thought sufficient, as -the natives seemed to be pretty well reconciled to us. I was told, that -they asked our people to go home with them, on condition they stripped -naked as they were. This shows that they had no design to rob them, -whatever other they might have. - -On the 9th, I sent the launch for more ballast, and the guard and -wooders to the usual place. With these I went myself, and found a good -many of the natives collected together, whose behaviour, though armed, -was courteous and obliging; so that there was no longer any occasion to -mark out the limits by a line; they observed them without this -precaution. As it was necessary for Mr. Wales’s instruments to remain on -shore all the middle of the day, the guard did not return to dinner, as -they had done before, till relieved by others. When I came off, I -prevailed on a young man, whose name was Wha-a-gou, to accompany me. -Before dinner I showed him every part of the ship; but did not observe -that any one thing fixed his attention a moment, or caused in him the -least surprise. He had no knowledge of goats, dogs, or cats, calling -them all hogs (_Booga_ or _Boogas_). I made him a present of a dog and a -bitch, as he showed a liking to that kind of animal. Soon after he came -on board, some of his friends followed in a canoe, and enquired for him, -probably doubtful of his safety. He looked out of the quarter-gallery, -and having spoken to them, they went ashore, and quickly returned with a -cock, a little sugar-cane, and a few cocoa-nuts, as a present to me. -Though he sat down with us, he did but just taste our salt pork, but eat -pretty heartily of yam, and drank a glass of wine. After dinner I made -him presents, and then conducted him ashore. - -As soon as we landed, the youth and some of his friends took me by the -hand, with a view, as I understood, to conduct me to their habitations. -We had not gone far, before some of them, for what reason I know not, -were unwilling I should proceed; in consequence of which the whole -company stopped; and, if I was not mistaken, a person was dispatched for -something or other to give me; for I was desired to sit down and wait, -which I accordingly did. During this interval, several of our gentlemen -passed us, at which they showed great uneasiness, and importuned me so -much to order them back, that I was at last obliged to comply. They were -jealous of our going up the country, or even along the shore of the -harbour. While I was waiting here, our friend Paowang came with a -present of fruit and roots, carried by about twenty men; in order, as I -supposed, to make it appear the greater. One had a small bunch of -plantains, another a yam, a third a cocoa-nut, &c.: but two men might -have carried the whole with ease. This present was in return for -something I had given him in the morning; however, I thought the least I -could do now, was to pay the porters. - -After I had dispatched Paowang, I returned to Wha-a-gou and his friends, -who were still for detaining me. They seemed to wait with great -impatience for something, and to be unwilling and ashamed to take away -the two dogs, without making me a return. As night was approaching, I -pressed to be gone; with which they complied, and so we parted. - -The preceding day, Mr. Forster learnt from the people the proper name of -the island, which they call Tanna; and this day I learnt from them the -names of those in the neighbourhood. The one we touched at last is -called Erromango; the small isle, which we discovered the morning we -landed here, Immer; the Table Island to the east, discovered at the same -time, Erronan or Foottoona; and an island which lies to the S. E. -Annattom. All these islands are to be seen from Tanna. - -They gave us to understand, in a manner which I thought admitted of no -doubt, that they eat human flesh, and that circumcision was practised -among them. They began the subject of eating human flesh of their own -accord, by asking us if we did; otherwise I should never have thought of -asking them such a question. I have heard people argue, that no nation -could be cannibals, if they had other flesh to eat, or did not want -food; thus deriving the custom from necessity. The people of this island -can be under no such necessity; they have fine pork and fowls, and -plenty of roots and fruits. But since we have not actually seen them eat -human flesh, it will admit of doubt with some, whether they are -cannibals. - -When I got on board, I learnt that, when the launch was on the west side -of the harbour taking in ballast, one of the men employed on this work -had scalded his fingers in taking a stone up out of some water. This -circumstance produced the discovery of several hot springs at the foot -of the cliff, and rather below high water mark. - -This day Mr. Wales and two or three of the officers advanced a little, -for the first time, into the island. They met with a straggling village, -the inhabitants of which treated them with great civility; and the next -morning, Mr. Forster and his party, and some others, made another -excursion inland. They met with several fine plantations of plantains, -sugar-canes, yams, &c.; and the natives were courteous and civil. -Indeed, by this time, the people, especially those in our neighbourhood, -were so well reconciled to us, that they showed not the least dislike at -our rambling about in the skirts of the woods, shooting, &c. In the -afternoon, some boys having got behind thickets, and having thrown two -or three stones at our people, who were cutting wood, they were fired at -by the petty officers present on duty. Being ashore at the time, I was -alarmed at hearing the report of the muskets, and seeing two or three -boys run out of the wood. When I knew the cause, I was much displeased -at so wanton an use being made of our fire-arms, and took measures to -prevent it for the future. Wind southerly, with heavy showers of rain. - -During the night, and also all the 11th, the volcano was exceedingly -troublesome, and made a terrible noise, throwing up prodigious columns -of fire and smoke at each explosion, which happened every three or four -minutes; and, at one time, great stones were seen high in the air. -Besides the necessary work of wooding and watering, we struck the -main-top-mast to fix new trestle-trees and back-stays. Mr. Forster and -his party went up the hill on the west side of the harbour, where he -found three places from whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, -through cracks or fissures in the earth. The ground about these was -exceedingly hot, and parched or burnt, and they seemed to keep pace with -the volcano, for at every explosion of the latter, the quantity of smoke -or steam in these was greatly increased, and forced out so as to rise in -small columns, which we saw from the ship, and had taken for common -fires made by the natives. At the foot of this hill are the hot springs -before mentioned. - -In the afternoon Mr. Forster, having begun his botanical researches on -the other side of the harbour, fell in with our friend Paowang’s house, -where he saw most of the articles I had given him, hanging on the -adjoining trees and bushes, as if they were not worthy of being under -his roof. - -On the 12th, some of the officers accompanied Mr. Forster to the hot -places he had been at the preceding day. A thermometer placed in a -little hole made in one of them, rose from 80, at which it stood in the -open air, to 170. Several other parts of the hill emitted smoke or steam -all the day, and the volcano was unusually furious, insomuch, that the -air was loaded with its ashes. The rain which fell at this time, was a -compound of water, sand, and earth; so that it properly might be called -showers of mire. Whichever way the wind was, we were plagued with the -ashes; unless it blew very strong indeed from the opposite direction. -Notwithstanding the natives seemed well enough satisfied with the few -expeditions we had made in the neighbourhood; they were unwilling we -should extend them farther. As a proof of this, some undertook to guide -the gentlemen when they were in the country, to a place where they might -see the mouth of the volcano. They very readily embraced the offer; and -were conducted down to the harbour, before they perceived the cheat. - -The 13th, wind at N. E., gloomy weather. The only thing worthy of note -this day was, that Paowang being at dinner with us on board, I took the -opportunity to show him several parts of the ship, and various articles, -in hopes of finding out something which they might value, and be induced -to take from us in exchange for refreshments; for what we got of this -kind was trifling. But he looked on every thing that was shown him with -the utmost indifference; nor did he take notice of any one thing except -a wooden sand-box, which he seemed to admire, and turned two or three -times over in his hand. - -Next morning, after breakfast, a party of us set out for the country, to -try if we could not get a nearer and better view of the volcano. We went -by the way of one of those hot smoking places before mentioned, and dug -a hole in the hottest part, into which a thermometer of Fahrenheit’s -construction was put; and the mercury presently rose to 100°. It -remained in the hole two minutes and a half without either rising or -falling. The earth about this place was a kind of white clay, had a -sulphureous smell, and was soft and wet, the surface only excepted, over -which was spread a thin dry crust, that had upon it some sulphur, and a -vitriolic substance, tasting like alum. The place affected by the heat -was not above eight or ten yards square; and near it were some -fig-trees, which spread their branches over a part of it, and seemed to -like their situation. We thought that this extraordinary heat was caused -by the steam of boiling water, strongly impregnated with sulphur. I was -told that some of the other places were larger than this; though we did -not go out of the road to look at them, but proceeded up the hill -through a country so covered with trees, shrubs, and plants, that the -bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, which seem to have been planted here by -nature, were in a manner choked up. Here and there we met with a house, -some few people, and plantations. These latter we found in different -states; some of long standing; others lately cleared; and some only -clearing, and before any thing had been planted. The clearing a piece of -ground for a plantation seemed to be a work of much labour, considering -the tools they had to work with, which, though much inferior to those at -the Society Isles, are of the same kind. Their method is, however, -judicious, and as expeditious as it can well be. They lop off the small -branches of the large trees, dig under the roots, and there burn the -branches and small shrubs and plants which they root up. The soil, in -some parts, is a rich black mould; in other parts, it seemed to be -composed of decayed vegetables, and of the ashes the volcano sends forth -throughout all its neighbourhood. Happening to turn out of the common -path, we came into a plantation, where we found a man at work, who, -either out of good-nature, or to get us the sooner out of his -territories, undertook to be our guide. We followed him accordingly, but -had not gone far before we came to the junction of two roads, in one of -which stood another man with a sling and a stone, which he thought -proper to lay down when a musket was pointed at him. The attitude in -which we found him, the ferocity appearing in his looks, and his -behaviour after, convinced us that he meant to defend the path he stood -in. He, in some measure, gained his point; for our guide took the other -road, and we followed; but not without suspecting he was leading us out -of the common way. The other man went with us likewise, counting us -several times over, and hallooing, as we judged, for assistance; for we -were presently joined by two or three more, among whom was a young woman -with a club in her hand. By these people we were conducted to the brow -of a hill, and shown a road leading down to the harbour, which they -wanted us to take. Not choosing to comply, we returned to that we had -left, which we pursued alone, our guide refusing to go with us. After -ascending another ridge, as thickly covered with wood as those we had -come over, we saw yet other hills between us and the volcano, which -seemed as far off as at our first setting out. This discouraged us from -proceeding farther, especially as we could get no one to be our guide. -We therefore came to a resolution to return; and had but just put this -in execution, when we met between twenty and thirty people, whom the -fellow before mentioned had collected together, with a design, as we -judged, to oppose our advancing into the country; but as they saw us -returning, they suffered us to pass unmolested. Some of them put us into -the right road, accompanied us down the hill, made us stop by the way to -entertain us with cocoa-nuts, plantains, and sugar-cane; and what we did -not eat on the spot, they brought down the hill with us. Thus, we found -these people hospitable, civil, and good-natured, when not prompted to a -contrary conduct by jealousy; a conduct I cannot tell how to blame them -for, especially when I consider the light in which they must view us. It -was impossible for them to know our real design; we enter their ports -without their daring to oppose; we endeavour to land in their country as -friends, and it is well if this succeeds; we land, nevertheless, and -maintain the footing we have got, by the superiority of our fire-arms. -Under such circumstances, what opinion are they to form of us? Is it not -as reasonable for them to think that we come to invade their country, as -to pay them a friendly visit? Time, and some acquaintance with us, can -only convince them of the latter. These people are yet in a rude state; -and, if we may judge from circumstances and appearances, are frequently -at war, not only with their neighbours, but among themselves; -consequently must be jealous of every new face. I will allow there are -some exceptions to this rule to be found in this sea; but there are few -nations who would willingly suffer visitors like us to advance far into -their country. - -Before this excursion, some of us had been of opinion, that these people -were addicted to an unnatural passion, because they had endeavoured to -entice some of our men into the woods; and, in particular, I was told, -that one who had the care of Mr. Forster’s plant bag, had been, once or -twice, attempted. As the carrying of bundles, &c. is the office of the -women in this country, it had occurred to me, and I was not singular in -this, that the natives might mistake him, and some others, for women. My -conjecture was fully verified this day: for this man, who was one of the -party, and carried the bag as usual, following me down the hill, by the -words which I understood of the conversation of the natives, and by -their actions, I was well assured that they considered him as a female; -till, by some means, they discovered their mistake, on which they cried -out, _Erramange! Erramange!_ It’s a man! It’s a man! The thing was so -palpable that every one was obliged to acknowledge, that they had before -mistaken his sex; and that, after they were undeceived, they seemed not -to have the least notion of what we had suspected. This circumstance -will show how liable we are to form wrong conjectures of things, among -people whose language we are ignorant of. Had it not been for this -discovery, I make no doubt that these people would have been charged -with this vile custom. - -In the evening I took a walk, with some of the gentlemen, into the -country on the other side of the harbour, where we had very different -treatment from what we had met with in the morning. The people we now -visited, among whom was our friend Paowang, being better acquainted with -us, showed a readiness to oblige us in every thing in their power. We -came to the village which had been visited on the 9th. It consisted of -about twenty houses, the most of which need no other description than -comparing them to the roof of a thatched house in England taken off the -walls and placed on the ground. Some were open at both ends; others -partly closed with reeds; and all were covered with palm thatch. A few -of them were thirty or forty feet long, and fourteen or sixteen broad. -Besides these, they have other mean hovels, which, I conceived, were -only to sleep in. Some of these stood in a plantation, and I was given -to understand, that in one of them lay a dead corpse. They made signs -that described sleep, or death; and circumstances pointed out the -latter. Curious to see all I could, I prevailed on an elderly man to go -with me to the hut, which was separated from the others by a reed fence, -built quite round it, at the distance of four or five feet. The entrance -was by a space in the fence, made so low as to admit one to step over. -The two sides and one end of the hut were closed or built up in the same -manner, and with the same materials, as the roof. The other end had been -open, but was now well closed up with mats, which I could not prevail on -the man to remove, or suffer me to do it. There hung at this end of the -hut a matted bag or basket, in which was a piece of roasted yam, and -some sort of leaves, all quite fresh. I had a strong desire to see the -inside of the hut, but the man was peremptory in refusing this, and even -showed an unwillingness to permit me to look into the basket. He wore -round his neck, fastened to a string, two or three locks of human hair; -and a woman present had several about her neck. I offered something in -exchange for them; but they gave me to understand they could not part -with them, as it was the hair of the person who lay in the hut. Thus I -was led to believe, that these people dispose of their dead in a manner -similar to that of Otaheite. The same custom of wearing the hair is -observed by the people of that island, and also by the New Zealanders. -The former make _Tamau_ of the hair of their deceased friends, and the -latter make ear-rings and necklaces of their teeth. - -Near most of their large houses were fixed upright in the ground the -stems of four cocoa-nut trees, in a square position, about three feet -from each other. Some of our gentlemen, who first saw them, were -inclined to believe they were thus placed on a religious account; but I -was now satisfied that it was for no other purpose but to hang -cocoa-nuts on to dry. For when I asked, as well as I could, the use of -them, a man took me to one, loaded with cocoa-nuts from the bottom to -the top; and no words could have informed me better. Their situation is -well chosen for this use, as most of their large houses are built in an -open airy place, or where the wind has a free passage, from whatever -direction it blows. Near most, if not all of them, is a large tree, or -two, whose spreading branches afford an agreeable retreat from the -scorching sun. This part of the island was well cultivated, open and -airy; the plantations were laid out by line, abounding with plantains, -sugar-canes, yams, and other roots, and stocked with fruit trees. In our -walk we met with our old friend Paowang, who, with some others, -accompanied us to the water-side, and brought with them, as a present, a -few yams and cocoa-nuts. - -On the 15th, having finished wooding and watering, a few hands only were -on shore making brooms, the rest being employed on board, setting up the -rigging, and putting the ship in a condition for sea. Mr. Forster, in -his botanical excursion this day, shot a pigeon, in the craw of which -was a wild nutmeg. He took some pains to find the tree, but his -endeavours were without success. In the evening a party of us walked to -the eastern sea-shore, in order to take the bearing of Annattom, and -Erronan or Foottoona. The horizon proved so hazy that I could see -neither; but one of the natives gave me, as I afterwards found, the true -direction of them. We observed that in all, or most of their sugar -plantations, were dug holes or pits, four feet deep, and five or six in -diameter, and on our inquiring their use, we were given to understand, -that they caught rats in them. These animals, which are very destructive -to the canes, are here in great plenty. The canes, I observed, were -planted as thick as possible round the edge of these pits, so that the -rats in coming at them are the more liable to tumble in. - -Next morning we found the tiller sprung in the rudder-head, and by some -strange neglect, we had not a spare one on board, which we were ignorant -of till now it was wanting. I knew but of one tree in the neighbourhood -fit for this purpose, which I sent the carpenter on shore to look at, -and an officer, with a party of men, to cut it down, provided he could -obtain leave of the natives; if not, he was ordered to acquaint me. He -understood that no one had any objection, and set the people to work -accordingly. But as the tree was large, this required some time; and, -before it was down, word was brought me that our friend Paowang was not -pleased. Upon this I gave orders to desist, as we found that, by -scarfing a piece to the inner end of the tiller, and letting it farther -into the rudder-head, it would still perform its office. But, as it was -necessary to have a spare one on board, I went on shore, sent for -Paowang, made him a present of a dog and a piece of cloth, and then -explained to him that our great steering paddle was broken, and that I -wanted that tree to make a new one. It was easy to see how well pleased -every one present was with the means I took to obtain it. With one voice -they gave their consent, Paowang joining his also, which he perhaps -could not have done without the others; for I do not know that he had -either more property or more authority than the rest. This point being -obtained, I took our friend on board to dinner, and after it was over -went with him on ashore, to pay a visit to an old chief, who was said to -be king of the island, which was a doubt with me. Paowang took little or -no notice of him. I made him a present, after which he immediately went -away, as if he had got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and they -gave him the title of _Areeke_. He was very old, but had a merry open -countenance. He wore round his waist a broad red and white checquered -belt, the materials and manufacture of which seemed the same as that of -Otaheite cloth; but this was hardly a mark of distinction. He had with -him a son, not less than forty-five or fifty years of age. A great -number of people were at this time at the landing-place; most of them -from distant parts. The behaviour of many was friendly, while others -were daring and insolent, which I thought proper to put up with, as our -stay was nearly at an end. - -On the 17th, about ten o’clock, I went ashore, and found in the crowd -old Geogy and his son, who soon made me understand that they wanted to -dine with me; and accordingly I brought them, and two more on board. -They all called them _Areekees_ (or kings); but I doubt if any of them -had the least pretensions to that title over the whole island. It had -been remarked that one of these kings had not authority enough to order -one of the people up into a cocoa-nut tree to bring him down some nuts. -Although he spoke to several, he was at last obliged to go himself, and -by way of revenge, as it was thought, left not a nut on the tree, taking -what he wanted himself, and giving the rest to some of our people. - -When I got them on board, I went with them all over the ship, which they -viewed with uncommon surprise and attention. We happened to have for -their entertainment a kind of pie or pudding made of plantains, and some -sort of greens which we had got from one of the natives. On this, and on -yams, they made a hearty dinner; for, as to the salt beef and pork, they -would hardly taste them. In the afternoon, having made each of them a -present of a hatchet, a spike-nail, and some medals, I conducted them -ashore. - -Mr. Forster and I then went over to the other side of the harbour, and -having tried, with Fahrenheit’s thermometer, the head of one of the hot -springs, we found that the mercury rose to 191°. At this time the tide -was up within two or three feet of the spring, so that we judged it -might, in some degree, be cooled by it. We were mistaken, however; for, -on repeating the experiment next morning, when the tide was out, the -mercury rose no higher than 187°; but, at another spring, where the -water bubbled out of the sand from under the rock at the S. W. corner of -the harbour, the mercury, in the same thermometer, rose to 202° 1/2, -which is but little colder than boiling water. The hot places before -mentioned are from about three to four hundred feet perpendicular above -these springs, and on the slope of the same ridge with the volcano; that -is, there are no vallies between them but such as are formed in the -ridge itself; nor is the volcano on the highest part of the ridge, but -on the S. E. side of it. This is, I have been told, contrary to the -general opinion of philosophers, who say that volcanos must be on the -summits of the highest hills. So far is this from being the case on this -island, that some of its hills are more than double the height of that -on which the volcano is, and close to it. To these remarks I must add, -that, in wet or moist weather, the volcano was most violent. There seems -to be room for some philosophical reasoning on these phænomena of -nature; but not having any talent that way, I must content myself with -stating facts as I found them, and leave the causes to men of more -abilities. - -The tiller was now finished; but as the wind was unfavourable for -sailing, the guard was sent on shore on the 19th, as before, and a party -of men to cut up and bring off the remainder of the tree from which we -had got the tiller. Having nothing else to do, I went on shore with -them, and finding a good number of the natives collected about the -landing-place as usual, I distributed among them all the articles I had -with me, and then went on board for more. In less than an hour I -returned, just as our people were getting some large logs into the boat. -At the same time four or five of the natives stepped forward to see what -we were about, and as we did not allow them to come within certain -limits, unless to pass along the beach, the sentry ordered them back, -which they readily complied with. At this time, having my eyes fixed on -them, I observed the sentry present his piece (as I thought at these -men), and was just going to reprove him for it, because I had observed -that, whenever this was done, some of the natives would hold up their -arms, to let us see they were equally ready. But I was astonished beyond -measure when the sentry fired, for I saw not the least cause. At this -outrage most of the people fled: it was only a few I could prevail on to -remain. As they ran off, I observed one man to fall; and he was -immediately lifted up by two others who took him into the water, washed -his wound, and then led him off. Presently after, some came and -described to me the nature of his wound; and, as I found he was not -carried far, I sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived, I went with -him to the man, whom we found expiring. The ball had struck his left -arm, which was much shattered, and then entered his body by the -short-ribs, one of which was broken. The rascal who fired pretended that -a man had laid an arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him, -so that he apprehended himself in danger. But this was no more than they -had always done, and with no other view than to show they were armed as -well as we; at least I have reason to think so, as they never went -farther. What made this incident the more unfortunate, was, it not -appearing to be the man who bent the bow that was shot, but one who -stood by him. This affair threw the natives into the utmost -consternation; and the few that were prevailed on to stay ran to the -plantations and brought cocoa-nuts, &c. which they laid down at our -feet. So soon were these daring people humbled! When I went on board to -dinner they all retired, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, -amongst whom were Paowang and Wha-a-gou. I had not seen this young man -since the day he dined on board. Both he and Paowang promised to bring -me fruit, &c. the next morning, but our early departure put it out of -their power. - - - - - CHAP. VI. - - DEPARTURE FROM TANNA; WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS INHABITANTS, THEIR - MANNERS AND ARTS. - - -During the night the wind had veered round to S. E. As this was -favourable for getting out of the harbour, at four o’clock in the -morning of the 20th, we began to unmoor, and at eight, having weighed -our last anchor, put to sea. As soon as we were clear of the land, I -brought to, waiting for the launch which was left behind to take up a -kedge-anchor and hawser we had out, to cast by. About day-break a noise -was heard in the woods, nearly abreast of us, on the east side of the -harbour, not unlike singing of psalms. I was told that the like had been -heard at the same time every morning, but it never came to my knowledge -till now, when it was too late to learn the occasion of it. Some were of -opinion, that at the east point of the harbour (where we observed, in -coming in, some houses, boats, &c.) was something sacred to religion, -because some of our people had attempted to go to this point, and were -prevented by the natives. I thought, and do still think, it was only -owing to a desire they showed, on every occasion, of fixing bounds to -our excursions. So far as we had once been, we might go again; but not -farther with their consent. But by encroaching a little every time, our -country expeditions were insensibly extended without giving the least -umbrage. Besides, these morning ceremonies, whether religious or not, -were not performed down at that point, but in a part where some of our -people had been daily. - -I cannot say what might be the true cause of these people showing such -dislike to our going up into their country. It might be owing to a -naturally jealous disposition, or perhaps to their being accustomed to -hostile visits from their neighbours, or quarrels among themselves. -Circumstances seemed to show that such must frequently happen; for we -observed them very expert in arms, and well accustomed to them; seldom -or never travelling without them. It is possible all this might be on -our account; but I hardly think it. We never gave them the least -molestation, nor did we touch any part of their property, not even the -wood and water, without first having obtained their consent. The very -cocoa-nuts, hanging over the heads of the workmen, were as safe as those -in the middle of the island. It happened, rather fortunately, that there -were so many cocoa-nut trees near the skirts of the harbour, which -seemed not to be private property; so that we could generally prevail on -the natives to bring us some of these nuts, when nothing would induce -them to bring any out of the country. - -We were not wholly without refreshments; for besides the fish, which our -seine now and then provided us with, we procured daily some fruits or -roots from the natives, though but little in proportion to what we could -consume. The reason why we got no more might be our having nothing to -give them in exchange, which they thought valuable. They had not the -least knowledge of iron; consequently, nails and iron tools, beads, &c. -which had so great a run at the more eastern isles, were of no -consideration here; and cloth can be of no use to people who go naked. - -The produce of this island is bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, a -fruit like a nectarine, yams, terra, a sort of potatoe, sugar-cane, wild -figs, a fruit like an orange, which is not eatable, and some other fruit -and nuts whose names I have not. Nor have I any doubt that the nutmeg -before mentioned was the produce of this island. The bread-fruit, -cocoa-nuts, and plantains, are neither so plentiful nor so good as at -Otaheite; on the other hand, sugar-canes and yams are not only in -greater plenty, but of superior quality, and much larger. We got one of -the latter which weighed fifty-six pounds, every ounce of which was -good. Hogs did not seem to be scarce; but we saw not many fowls. These -are the only domestic animals they have. Land birds are not more -numerous than at Otaheite, and the other islands; but we met with some -small birds, with a very beautiful plumage, which we had never seen -before. There is as great a variety of trees and plants here as at any -island we touched at, where our botanists had time to examine. I believe -these people live chiefly on the produce of the land, and that the sea -contributes but little to their subsistence. Whether this arises from -the coast not abounding with fish, or from their being bad fishermen, I -know not; both causes perhaps concur. I never saw any sort of -fishing-tackle amongst them, nor any one out fishing, except on the -shoals, or along the shores of the harbour, where they would watch to -strike with a dart such fish as came within their reach; and in this -they were expert. They seemed much to admire our catching fish with the -seine; and, I believe, were not well pleased with it at last. I doubt -not they have other methods of catching fish besides striking them. - -We understood that the little isle of Immer was chiefly inhabited by -fishermen, and that the canoes we frequently saw pass, to and from that -isle and the east point of the harbour, were fishing canoes. These -canoes were of unequal sizes, some thirty feet long, two broad, and -three deep, and they are composed of several pieces of wood clumsily -sewed together with bandages. The joints are covered on the outside by a -thin batten champhered off at the edges, over which the bandages pass. -They are navigated either by paddles or sails. The sail is latteen, -extended to a yard and boom, and hoisted to a short mast. Some of the -large canoes have two sails, and all of them outriggers. - -At first we thought the people of this island, as well as those of -Erromango, were a race between the natives of the Friendly Islands and -those of Mallicollo; but a little acquaintance with them convinced us -that they had little or no affinity to either, except it be in their -hair, which is much like what the people of the latter island have. The -general colours of it are black and brown, growing to a tolerable -length, and very crisp and curly. They separate it into small locks, -which they woold or cue round with the rind of a slender plant, down to -about an inch of the ends; and, as the hair grows, the woolding is -continued. Each of these cues or locks is somewhat thicker than common -whipcord; and they look like a parcel of small strings hanging down from -the crown of their heads. Their beards, which are strong and bushy, are -generally short. The women do not wear their hair so, but cropped; nor -do the boys, till they approach manhood. Some few men, women, and -children, were seen, who had hair like ours; but it was obvious that -these were of another nation; and I think we understood they came from -Erronan. It is to this island they ascribe one of the two languages -which they speak, and which is nearly, if not exactly, the same as that -spoken at the Friendly Isles. It is therefore more than probable that -Erronan was peopled from that nation, and that, by long intercourse with -Tanna and the other neighbouring islands, each hath learnt the other’s -language, which they use indiscriminately. - -The other language which the people of Tanna speak, and, as we -understood, those of Erromango and Annattom, is properly their own. It -is different from any we had before met with, and bears no affinity to -that of Mallicollo; so that, it should seem, the people of these islands -are a distinct nation of themselves. Mallicollo, Apee, &c. were names -entirely unknown to them; they even knew nothing of Sandwich Island, -which is much the nearer. I took no small pains to know how far their -geographical knowledge extended; and did not find that it exceeded the -limits of their horizon. - -These people are of the middle size, rather slender than otherwise; many -are little, but few tall or stout; the most of them have good features, -and agreeable countenances; are, like all the tropical race, active and -nimble; and seem to excel in the use of arms, but not to be fond of -labour. They never would put a hand to assist in any work we were -carrying on, which the people of the other islands used to delight in. -But what I judge most from, is their making the females do the most -laborious work, as if they were pack-horses. I have seen a woman -carrying a large bundle on her back, or a child on her back and a bundle -under her arm, and a fellow strutting before her with nothing but a club -or spear, or some such thing. We have frequently observed little troops -of women pass, to and fro, along the beach, laden with fruit and roots, -escorted by a party of men under arms; though, now and then, we have -seen a man carry a burden at the same time, but not often. I know not on -what account this was done, nor that an armed troop was necessary. At -first, we thought they were moving out of the neighbourhood with their -effects; but we afterwards saw them both carry out and bring in every -day. - -I cannot say the women are beauties; but I think them handsome enough -for the men, and too handsome for the use that is made of them. Both -sexes are of a very dark colour, but not black; nor have they the least -characteristic of the negro about them. They make themselves blacker -than they really are, by painting their faces with a pigment of the -colour of black lead. They also use another sort which is red, and a -third sort brown, or a colour between red and black. All these, but -especially the first, they lay on, with a liberal hand, not only on the -face, but on the neck, shoulders, and breast. The men wear nothing but a -belt, and the wrapping leaf as at Mallicollo.[6] The women have a kind -of petticoat made of the filaments of the plantain tree, flags, or some -such thing, which reaches below the knee. Both sexes wear ornaments, -such as bracelets, ear-rings, necklaces, and amulets. The bracelets are -chiefly worn by the men; some made of sea-shells, and others of those of -the cocoa-nut. The men also wear amulets; and those of most value being -made of a greenish stone, the green stone of New Zealand is valued by -them for this purpose. Necklaces are chiefly used by the women, and made -mostly of shells. Ear-rings are common to both sexes, and those valued -most are made of tortoise-shell. Some of our people having got some at -the Friendly Islands, brought it to a good market here, where it was of -more value than any thing we had besides; from which I conclude that -these people catch but few turtle, though I saw one in the harbour, just -as we were getting under sail. I observed that, towards the latter end -of our stay, they began to ask for hatchets, and large nails; so that it -is likely they had found that iron is more serviceable than stone, or -shells, of which all their tools I have seen are made. Their stone -hatchets, at least all those I saw, are not in the shape of adzes, as at -the other islands, but more like an axe, in this form. [Illustration] In -the helve, which is pretty thick, is made a hole into which the stone is -fixed. - -These people, besides the cultivation of ground, have few other arts -worth mentioning. They know how to make a coarse kind of matting, and a -coarse cloth of the bark of a tree, which is used chiefly for belts. The -workmanship of their canoes, I have before observed, is very rude; and -their arms, with which they take the most pains in point of neatness, -come far short of some others we had seen. Their weapons are clubs, -spears, or darts, bows and arrows, and stones. The clubs are of three or -four kinds, and from three to five feet long. They seem to place most -dependence on the darts, which are pointed with three bearded edges. In -throwing them they make use of a becket, that is, a piece of stiff -plaited cord about six inches long, with an eye in one end and a knot at -the other. The eye is fixed on the fore-finger of the right hand, and -the other end is hitched round the dart, where it is nearly on an -equipoise. They hold the dart between the thumb and remaining fingers, -which serve only to give it direction, the velocity being communicated -by the becket and fore-finger. The former flies off from the dart the -instant its velocity becomes greater than that of the hand, but it -remains on the finger ready to be used again. With darts they kill both -birds and fish, and are sure of hitting a mark, within the compass of -the crown of a hat, at the distance of eight or ten yards; but, at -double that distance, it is chance if they hit a mark the size of a -man’s body, though they will throw the weapon sixty or seventy yards. -They always throw with all their might, let the distance be what it -will. Darts, bows and arrows, are to them what muskets are to us. The -arrows are made of reeds pointed with hard wood: some are bearded and -some not, and those for shooting birds have two, three, and sometimes -four points. The stones they use are, in general, the branches of coral -rocks from eight to fourteen inches long, and from an inch to an inch -and a half in diameter. I know not if they employ them as missive -weapons; almost every one of them carries a club, and besides that, -either darts, or a bow and arrows, but never both: those who had stones -kept them generally in their belts. - -I cannot conclude this account of their arms without adding an entire -passage out of Mr. Wales’s journal. As this gentleman was continually on -shore amongst them, he had a better opportunity of seeing what they -could perform than any of us. The passage is as follows: “I must confess -I have been often led to think the feats which Homer represents his -heroes as performing with their spears a little too much of the -marvellous to be admitted into an heroic poem; I mean when confined -within the streight stays of Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate -for him as Mr. Pope acknowledges them to be _surprising_. But since I -have seen what these people can do with their wooden spears, and them -badly pointed, and not of a very hard nature, I have not the least -exception to any one passage in that great poet on this account. But, if -I see fewer exceptions, I can find infinitely more beauties in him; as -he has, I think, scarce an action, circumstance, or description of any -kind whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not seen and recognised -among these people; as their whirling motion, and whistling noise, as -they fly; their quivering motion, as they stick in the ground when they -fall; their meditating their aim, when they are going to throw; and -their shaking them in their hand as they go along, &c. &c.” - -I know no more of their cookery, than that it consists of roasting and -baking; for they have no vessel in which water can be boiled. Nor do I -know that they have any other liquor but water and the juice of the -cocoa-nut. - -We are utter strangers to their religion; and but little acquainted with -their government. They seem to have chiefs among them; at least some -were pointed out to us by that title; but, as I before observed, they -appeared to have very little authority over the rest of the people. Old -Geogy was the only one the people were ever seen to take the least -notice of; but whether this was owing to high rank or old age I cannot -say. On several occasions I have seen the old men respected and obeyed. -Our friend Paowang was so; and yet I never heard him called chief, and -have many reasons to believe that he had not a right to any more -authority than many of his neighbours, and few, if any, were bound to -obey him, or any other person in our neighbourhood; for if there had -been such a one, we certainly should, by some means, have known it. I -named the harbour Port Resolution, after the ship, she being the first -which ever entered it. It is situated on the north side of the most -eastern point of the island, and about E. N. E. from the volcano; in the -latitude of 19° 32ʹ 25ʺ 1/2 South, and in the longitude of 169° 44ʹ 35ʺ -East. It is no more than a little creek running in S. by W. 1/2 W. three -quarters of a mile, and is about half that in breadth. A shoal of sand -and rocks lying on the east side makes it still narrower. The depth of -water in the harbour is from six to three fathoms, and the bottom is -sand and mud. No place can be more convenient for taking in wood and -water; for both are close to the shore. The water stunk a little after -it had been a few days on board, but it afterwards turned sweet; and, -even when it was at the worst, the tin machine would, in a few hours, -recover a whole cask. This is an excellent contrivance for sweetening -water at sea, and is well known in the navy. - -Mr. Wales, from whom I had the latitude and longitude, found the -variation of the needle to be 7° 14ʹ 12ʺ East, and the dip of its south -end 45° 2-1/3ʹ. He also observed the time of high water, on the full and -change days; to be about 5 h. 45m., and the tide to rise and fall three -feet. - - - - - CHAP. VII. - - THE SURVEY OF THE ISLANDS CONTINUED, AND A MORE PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION - OF THEM. - - -As soon as the boats were hoisted in, we made sail, and stretched to the -eastward, with a fresh gale at S. E., in order to have a nearer view of -Erronan, and to see if there was any land in its neighbourhood. We stood -on till midnight, when, having passed the island, we tacked, and spent -the remainder of the night making two boards. At sunrise on the 21st, we -stood to S. W. in order to get to the south of Tanna, and nearer to -Annattom, to observe if any more land lay in that direction; for an -extraordinary clear morning had produced no discovery of any to the -east. At noon having observed in latitude 20° 33ʹ 30ʺ, the situation of -the lands around us was as follows. Port Resolution bore 86° West, -distant six and a half leagues; the island of Tanna extended from S. 88° -West, to N. 64° West; Traitor’s Head N. 58° West, distant twenty -leagues; the island of Erronan N. 86° East, distant five leagues; and -Annattom from S. 1/2 E. to S 1/2 W. distant ten leagues. We continued to -stretch to the south till two o’clock P. M. when, seeing no more land -before us, we bore up round the S. E. end of Tanna; and, with a fine -gale at E. S. E. ran along the south coast at one league from shore. It -seemed a bold one, without the guard of any rocks; and the country full -as fertile as in the neighbourhood of the harbour, and making a fine -appearance. At six o’clock the high land of Erromango appeared over the -west end of Tanna in the direction of N. 16° West; at eight o’clock we -were past the island, and steered N. N. W. for Sandwich Island, in order -to finish the survey[7] of it, and of the isles to the N. W. On the 22d, -at four o’clock P. M., we drew near the S. E. end, and ranging the south -coast, found it to trend in the direction of West and W. N. W. for about -nine leagues. Near the middle of this length, and close to the shore, -are three or four small isles, behind which seemed to be a safe -anchorage. But not thinking I had any time to spare to visit this fine -island, I continued to range the coast to its western extremity, and -then steered N. N. W. for the S. E. end of Mallicollo, which, at half -past six o’clock next morning, bore N. 14° East, distant seven or eight -leagues, and Three-Hills Island S. 82° East. Soon after, we saw the -islands Apee, Paoom, and Ambrym. What we had comprehended under the name -of Paoom appeared now to be two isles, something like a separation being -seen between the hill and the land to the west of it. We approached the -S. W. side of Mallicollo to within half a league, and ranged it at that -distance. From the S. E. point, the direction of the land is west, a -little southerly, for six or seven leagues, and then N. W. by W. three -leagues, to a pretty high point or head-land, situated in latitude 16° -29ʹ, and which obtained the name of South-West Cape. The coast, which is -low, seemed to be indented into creeks and projecting points; or else, -these points were small isles lying under the shore. We were sure of -one, which lies between two and three leagues east of the Cape. Close to -the west side or point of the Cape lies, connected with it by breakers, -a round rock or islet, which helps to shelter a fine bay, formed by an -elbow in the coast, from the reigning winds. - -The natives appeared in troops on many parts of the shore, and some -seemed desirous to come off to us in canoes; but they did not; and, -probably, our not shortening sail was the reason. From the South-West -Cape, the direction of the coast is N. by W., but the most advanced land -bore from it N. W. by N. at which the land seemed to terminate. -Continuing to follow the direction of the coast, at noon it was two -miles from us; and our latitude, by observation, was 16° 22ʹ 30ʺ South. -This is nearly the parallel to Port Sandwich, and our never-failing -guide, the watch, showed that we were 26ʹ W. of it; a distance which the -breadth of Mallicollo cannot exceed in this parallel. The South-West -Cape bore S. 26° East, distant seven miles; and the most advanced point -of land, for which we steered, bore N. W. by N. At three o’clock, we -were the length of it, and found the land continued, and trending more -and more to the north. We coasted it to its northern extremity, which we -did not reach till after dark, at which time we were near enough the -shore to hear the voices of people, who were assembled round a fire they -had made on the beach. There we sounded, and found twenty fathoms and a -bottom of sand; but, on edging off from the shore, we soon got out of -sounding, and then made a trip back to the south till the moon got up. -After this we stood again to the north, hauled round the point, and -spent the night in Bougainville’s passage; being assured of our -situation before sunset, by seeing the land, on the north side of the -passage, extending as far as N. W. 1/2 W. - -The south coast of Mallicollo, from the S. E. end to the S. W. Cape, is -luxuriantly clothed with wood, and other productions of nature, from the -sea-shore to the very summits of the hills. To the N. W. of the Cape the -country is less woody, but more agreeably interspersed with lawns, some -of which appeared to be cultivated. The summits of the hills seemed -barren; and the highest lies between Port Sandwich and the S. W. Cape. -Farther north, the land falls insensibly lower, and is less covered with -wood. I believe it is a very fertile island, and well inhabited; for we -saw smoke by day, and fire by night, in all parts of it. - -Next morning at sunrise, we found ourselves nearly in the middle of the -passage, the N. W. end of Mallicollo extending from S. 30° East, to S. -58° West; the land to the north from N. 70° West, to N. 4° East; and the -Isle of Lepers bearing N. 30° East, distant eleven or twelve leagues. We -now made sail, and steered N. by E., and afterwards north, along the -east coast of the northern land, with a fine breeze at S. E. We found -that this coast, which at first appeared to be continued, was composed -of several low woody isles, the most of them of small extent, except the -southernmost, which, on account of the day, I named St. Bartholomew. It -is six or seven leagues in circuit, and makes the N. E. point of -Bougainville’s Passage. At noon the breeze began to slacken. We were, at -this time, between two and three miles from the land, and observed, in -latitude 15° 23ʹ, the Isle of Lepers bearing from E. by N. to E. by S., -distant seven leagues; and an high bluff-head, at which the coast we -were upon seemed to terminate, N. N. W. 1/2 W., distant ten or eleven -leagues; but from the mast-head we could see land to the east. This we -judged to be an island, and it bore N. by W. 1/2 W. - -As we advanced to N. N. W. along a fine coast, covered with woods, we -perceived low land that extended off from the bluff-head towards the -island above mentioned, but did not seem to join it. It was my intention -to have gone through the channel, but the approach of night made me lay -it aside, and steer without the island. During the afternoon we passed -some small isles lying under the shore; and observed some projecting -points of unequal height, but were not able to determine whether or no -they were connected with the main land. Behind them was a ridge of hills -which terminated at the bluff-head. There were cliffs, in some places of -the coast, and white patches, which we judged to be chalk. At ten -o’clock, being the length of the isle which lies off the head, we -shortened sail, and spent the night making short boards. - -At day-break, on the 25th, we were on the north side of the island -(which is of a moderate height, and three leagues in circuit), and -steered west for the bluff-head along the low land under it. At sun-rise -an elevated coast came in sight beyond the bluff-head, extending to the -north as far as N. W. by W. After doubling the head we found the land to -trend south, a little easterly, and to form a large, deep bay, bounded -on the west by the coast just mentioned. - -Every thing conspired to make us believe this was the bay of St. Philip -and St. Jago, discovered by Quiros in 1606. To determine this point it -was necessary to proceed farther up; for at this time we saw no end to -it. The wind being at south, we were obliged to ply, and first stretched -over for the west shore, from which we were three miles at noon, when -our latitude was 14° 55ʹ 30ʺ South, longitude 167° 3ʹ East; the mouth of -the bay extending from N. 64° West to S. 86° East, which last direction -was the bluff-head, distant three leagues. In the afternoon, the wind -veering to E. S. E., we could look up to the head of the bay; but as the -breeze was faint, a N. E. swell hurled us over to the west shore; so -that, at half past four o’clock P. M, we were no more than two miles -from it, and tacked in one hundred and twenty fathoms water, a soft -muddy bottom. The bluff-head, or east point of the bay, bore N. 53° -East. - -We had no sooner tacked than it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy -of the swell, which continued to hurtle us towards the shore, where -large troops of people were assembled. Some ventured off in two canoes; -but all the signs of friendship we could make, did not induce them to -come along-side, or near enough to receive any present from us. At last -they took sudden fright at something, and returned ashore. They were -naked, except having some long grass, like flags, fastened to a belt, -and hanging down before and behind, nearly as low as the knee. Their -colour was very dark, and their hair woolly; or cut short, which made it -seem so. The canoes were small, and had out-riggers. The calm continued -till near eight o’clock, in which time we drove into eighty-five fathoms -water, and so near the shore, that I expected we should be obliged to -anchor. A breeze of wind sprung up at E. S. E., and first took us on the -wrong side; but, contrary to all our expectations, and when we had -hardly room to veer, the ship came about, and having filled on the -starboard tack, we stood off N. E. Thus we were relieved from the -apprehensions of being forced to anchor in a great depth, on a lee -shore, and in a dark and obscure night. - -We continued to ply upwards, with variable light breezes between -E. S. E. and S., till ten next morning, when it fell calm. We were, at -this time, about seven or eight miles from the head of the bay, which is -terminated by a low beach; and behind that is an extensive flat covered -with wood, and bounded on each side by a ridge of mountains. At noon we -found the latitude to be 15° 5ʹ South, and were detained here by the -calm till one o’clock P. M., when we got a breeze at N. by W., with -which we steered up to within two miles of the head of the bay; and then -I sent Mr. Cooper and Mr. Gilbert to sound and reconnoitre the coast, -while we stood to and fro with the ship. This gave time to three sailing -canoes, which had been following us some time, to come up. There were -five or six men in each; and they approached near enough to receive such -things as were thrown to them fastened to a rope, but would not advance -along-side. They were the same sort of people as those we had seen the -preceding evening; indeed we thought they came from the same place. They -seemed to be stouter and better shaped men than those of Mallicollo; and -several circumstances concurred to make us think they were of another -nation. They named the numerals as far as five or six, in the language -of Anamocka, and understood us when we asked the names of the adjacent -lands in that language. Some, indeed, had black short frizzled hair, -like the natives of Mallicollo; but others had it long, tied up on the -crown of the head, and ornamented with feathers, like the New -Zealanders. Their other ornaments were bracelets and necklaces; one man -had something like a white shell on his forehead; and some were painted -with a blackish pigment. I did not see that they had any other weapon -but darts and gigs, intended only for striking of fish. Their canoes -were much like those of Tanna, and navigated in the same manner, or -nearly so. They readily gave us the names of such parts as we pointed -to: but we could not obtain from them the name of the island. At length, -seeing our boats coming, they paddled in for the shore, notwithstanding -all we could say or do to detain them. - -When the boats returned, Mr. Cooper informed me, that they had landed on -the beach which is at the head of the bay, near a fine river, or stream -of fresh water, so large and deep, that they judged boats might enter it -at high water. They found three fathoms depth close to the beach, and -fifty-five and fifty, two cables’ length off. Farther out they did not -sound; and where we were with the ship we had no soundings with an -hundred and seventy fathoms line. Before the boats got on board, the -wind had shifted to S. S. E. As we were in want of nothing, and had no -time to spare, I took the advantage of this shift of wind, and steered -down the bay. During the fore-part of the night, the country was -illuminated with fires, from the sea-shore to the summits of the -mountains; but this was only on the west side of the shore. I cannot -pretend to say what was the occasion of these fires, but have no idea of -their being on our account. Probably they were burning or clearing the -ground for new plantations. At day-break, on the 27th, we found -ourselves two-thirds down the bay; and, as we had but little wind, it -was noon before we were the length of the N. W. point, which at this -time bore N. 82° West, distant five miles. Latitude observed, 14° 39ʹ -30ʺ. - -Some of our gentlemen were doubtful of this being the bay of St. Philip -and St. Jago, as there was no place which they thought could mean the -port of Vera Cruz. For my part, I found general points to agree so well -with Quiros’s description, that I had not the least doubt about it. As -to what he calls the port of Vera Cruz, I understand that to be the -anchorage at the head of the bay, which in some places may extend -farther off than where our boats landed. There is nothing in his account -of the port which contradicts this supposition.[8] It was but natural -for his people to give a name to the place, independent of so large a -bay, where they lay so long at anchor. A port is a vague term, like many -others in geography, and has been very often applied to places far less -sheltered than this. - -Our officers observed that grass and other plants grew on the beach -close to high-water mark; which is always a sure sign of pacific -anchorage, and an undeniable proof that there never is a great surf on -the shore. They judged that the tide rose about four or five feet, and -that boats and such craft might, at high water, enter the river, which -seemed to be pretty deep and broad within; so that this, probably, is -one of those mentioned by Quiros; and, if we were not deceived, we saw -the other. - -The bay hath twenty leagues sea-coast; six on the east side, which lies -in the direction of S. 1/2 West and N. 1/2 East; two at the head, and -twelve on the west side, the direction of which is S. by E. and N. by W. -from the head down to two-thirds of its length, and then N. W. by N. to -the N. W. point. The two points which form the entrance lie in the -direction of S. 53° East, and N. 53° West, from each other distant ten -leagues. The bay is every where free from danger, and of unfathomable -depth, except near the shores, which are for the most part low. This, -however, is only a very narrow strip between the sea-shore and the foot -of the hills; for the bay, as well as the flat land at the head of it, -is bounded on each side by a ridge of hills, one of which, that to the -west, is very high and double, extending the whole length of the island. -An uncommonly luxuriant vegetation was every where to be seen; the sides -of the hills were chequered with plantations, and every valley watered -by a stream. Of all the productions of nature this country was adorned -with, the cocoa-nut trees were the most conspicuous. The columns of -smoke we saw by day, and the fires by night, all over the country, led -us to believe that it is well inhabited and very fertile. The east point -of this bay, which I name Cape Quiros, in memory of its first -discoverer, is situated in latitude 14° 56ʹ South, longitude 167° 13ʹ -East. The N. W. point, which I named Cape Cumberland, in honour of his -Royal Highness the Duke, lies in the latitude of 14° 38ʹ 45ʺ South, -longitude 166° 49-1/2ʹ East, and is the N. W. extremity of this -archipelago; for, after doubling it, we found the coast to trend -gradually round to the S. and S. S. E. - -On the 28th and 29th we had light airs and calms, so that we advanced -but little. In this time we took every opportunity, when the horizon was -clearer than usual, to look out for more land; but none was seen. By -Quiros’s track to the north, after leaving the bay above mentioned, it -seems probable that there is none nearer than Queen Charlotte’s Island, -discovered by Captain Carteret, which lies about ninety leagues N. N. W. -from Cape Cumberland, and I take to be the same with Quiros’s Santa -Cruz. - -On the 30th the calm was succeeded by a fresh breeze at S. S. E., which -enabled us to ply up the coast. At noon we observed in 15° 20ʹ; -afterwards we stretched in east, to within a mile of the shore, and then -tacked, in seventy-five fathoms, before a sandy flat, on which several -of the natives made their appearance. We observed, on the sides of the -hills, several plantations that were laid out by line, and fenced round. - -On the 31st, at noon, the S. or S. W. point of the island bore N. 62° -East, distant four leagues. This forms the N. W. point of what I call -Bougainville’s Passage; the N. E. point, at this time, bore N. 85° East, -and the N. W. end of Mollicollo from S. 54° East to S. 72° East. -Latitude observed, 15° 45ʹ S. In the afternoon, in stretching to the -east, we weathered the S. W. point of the island, from which the coast -trends east northerly. It is low, and seemed to form some creeks or -coves; and, as we got farther into the passage, we perceived some small -low isles lying along it, which seemed to extend behind St. Bartholomew -Island. - -Having now finished the survey of the whole archipelago, the season of -the year made it necessary for me to return to the south, while I had -yet some time left to explore any land I might meet with between this -and New Zealand; where I intended to touch, that I might refresh my -people, and recruit our stock of wood and water for another southern -course. With this view, at five P. M. we tacked, and hauled to the -southward, with a fresh gale at S. E. At this time the N. W. point of -the passage, or the S. W. point of the island Tierra del Espiritu Santo, -the only remains of Quiros’s continent, bore N. 82° West, distant three -leagues. I named it Cape Lisburne, and its situation is in latitude 15° -40ʹ, longitude 165° 59ʹ East. - -The foregoing account of these islands, in the order in which we -explored them, not being particular enough either as to situation or -description, it may not be improper now to give a more accurate view of -them, which, with the annexed chart, will convey to the reader a better -idea of the whole group. - -The northern islands of this archipelago were first discovered by that -great navigator, Quiros, in 1606; and, not without reason, were -considered as part of the southern continent, which, at that time, and -until very lately, was supposed to exist. They were next visited by M. -de Bougainville, in 1768; who, besides landing on the Isle of Lepers, -did no more than discover that the land was not connected, but composed -of islands, which he called the Great Cyclades. But as, besides -ascertaining the extent and situation of these islands, we added to them -several new ones which were not known before, and explored the whole, I -think we have obtained a right to name them; and shall in future -distinguish them by the name of the New Hebrides. They are situated -between the latitude of 14° 29ʹ and 20° 4ʹ South, and between 166° 41ʹ -and 170° 21ʹ East longitude, and extend an hundred and twenty-five -leagues in the direction of N. N. W. 1/2 West, and S. S. E. 1/2 East. - -The most northern island is that called by M. de Bougainville Peak of -the Etoile. It is situated, according to his account, in latitude 14° -29ʹ, longitude 168° 9ʹ; and, N. by W., eight leagues from Aurora. - -The next island, which lies farthest north, is that of Tierra del -Espiritu Santo. It is the most western and largest of all the Hebrides, -being twenty-two leagues long, in the direction of N. N. W. 1/2 West, -and S. S. E. 1/2 East, twelve in breadth, and sixty in circuit. We have -obtained the true figure of this island very accurately. The land of it, -especially the west side, is exceedingly high and mountainous; and, in -many places, the hills rise directly from the sea. Except the cliffs and -beaches, every other part is covered with wood, or laid out in -plantations. Besides the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, the isles which -lie along the south and east coast, cannot, in my opinion, fail of -forming some good bays or harbours. - -The next considerable island is that of Mallicollo, to the S. E. It -extends N. W. and S. E., and is eighteen leagues long in that direction. -Its greatest breadth, which is at the S. E. end, is eight leagues. The -N. W. end is two-thirds this breadth; and nearer the middle, one-third. -This contraction is occasioned by a wide and pretty deep bay on the -S. W. side. To judge of this island from what we saw of it, it must be -very fertile and well inhabited. The land on the sea-coast is rather -low, and lies with a gentle slope from the hills which are in the middle -of the island. Two-thirds of the N. E. coast was only seen at a great -distance; therefore the delineations of it on the chart can have no -pretensions to accuracy; but the other parts, I apprehend, are without -any material errors. - -St. Bartholomew lies between the S. E. end of Tierra del Espiritu Santo, -and the north end of Mallicollo; and the distance between it and the -latter is eight miles. This is the passage through which M. de -Bougainville went; and the middle of it is in latitude 15° 48ʹ. - -The Isle of Lepers lies between Espiritu Santo and Aurora Island, eight -leagues from the former, and three from the latter, in latitude 15° 22ʹ, -and nearly under the same meridian as the S. E. end of Mallicollo. It is -of an egg-like figure, very high, and eighteen or twenty leagues in -circuit. Its limits were determined by several bearings; but the lines -of the shore were traced out by guess, except the N. E. part, where is -anchorage half a mile from the land. - -Aurora, Whitsuntide, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbour Apee, Threehills, -and Sandwich Islands, lie all nearly under the meridian of 167° 29ʹ or -30ʹ East, extending from the latitude of 14° 51ʹ 30ʺ, to 17° 53ʹ 30ʺ. - -The island of Aurora lies N. by W. and S. by E., and is eleven leagues -long in that direction; but I believe it hardly any where exceeds two or -two and a half in breadth. It hath a good height, its surface hilly, and -every where covered with wood, except where the natives have their -dwellings and plantations. - -Whitsuntide Isle, which is one league and a half to the south of Aurora, -is of the same length, and lies in the direction of north and south, but -is something broader than Aurora Island. It is considerably high, and -clothed with wood, except such parts as seemed to be cultivated, which -were pretty numerous. - -From the south end of Whitsuntide Island to the north side of Ambrym is -two leagues and an half. This is about seventeen leagues in circuit; its -shores are rather low, but the land rises with an unequal ascent to a -tolerably high mountain in the middle of the island, from which ascended -great columns of smoke; but we were not able to determine whether this -was occasioned by a volcano or not. That it is fertile and well -inhabited seems probable from the quantities of smoke which we saw rise -out of the woods, in such parts of the island as came within the compass -of our sight; for it must be observed, that we did not see the whole of -it. - -We saw still much less of Paoom, and its neighbourhood. I can say no -more of this island than that it towers up to a great height, in the -form of a round hay-stack; and the extent of it, and of the adjoining -isle (if there are two) cannot exceed three or four leagues in any -direction; for the distance between Ambrym and Apee is hardly five; and -they lie in this space, and east from Port Sandwich, distant about seven -or eight leagues. - -The island of Apee is not less than twenty leagues in circuit; its -longest direction is about eight leagues N. W. and S. E.; it is of -considerable height, and hath a hilly surface, diversified with woods -and lawns, the west and south parts especially; for the others we did -not see. - -Shepherd’s Isles are a group of small ones of unequal size, extending -off from the S. E. point of Apee about five leagues, in the direction of -S. E. - -The island Threehills lies south four leagues from the coast of Apee, -and S. E. 1/2 S., distant seventeen leagues, from Port Sandwich: to -this, and what has been already said of it, I shall only add, that W. by -N., five miles from the west point, is a reef of rocks on which the sea -continually breaks. - -Nine leagues, in the direction of south, from Threehills, lies Sandwich -Island. Twohills, the Monument, and Montagu Islands, lie to the east of -this line, and Hinchinbrook to the west, as also two or three small -isles which lie between it and Sandwich Island, to which they are -connected by breakers. - -Sandwich Island is twenty-five leagues in circuit; its greatest extent -is ten leagues; and it lies in the direction of N. W. by W. and S. E. by -E. The N. W. coast of this island we only viewed at a distance; -therefore the chart in this part may be faulty, so far as it regards the -line of the coast, but no farther. The distance from the south end of -Mallicollo to the N. W. end of Sandwich Island is twenty-two leagues in -the direction of S. S. E. 1/2 E. - -In the same direction lie Erromango, Tanna, and Annattom. The first is -18 leagues from Sandwich Island, and is twenty-four or twenty-five -leagues in circuit. The middle of it lies in the latitude of 18° 54ʹ, -longitude 169° 19ʹ E., and it is of a good height, as may be gathered -from the distance we were off when we first saw it. - -Tanna lies six leagues from the south side of Erromango, extending S. E. -by S. and N. W. by N. about eight leagues long in that direction, and -every where about three or four leagues broad. - -The Isle of Immer lies in the direction of N. by E. 1/2 E., four leagues -from Port Resolution in Tanna; and the island of Erronan or Footoona -east, in the same direction, distant eleven leagues. This, which is the -most eastern island of all the Hebrides, did not appear to be above five -leagues in circuit, but of a considerable height, and flat at top. On -the N. E. side is a little peak, seemingly disjoined from the isle, but -we thought it was connected by low land. - -Annattom, which is the southernmost island, is situated in the latitude -of 20° 3ʹ, longitude 170° 4ʹ, and S. 30° East, eleven or twelve leagues -from Port Resolution. It is of a good height, with an hilly surface; and -more I must not say of it. - -Here follows the lunar observations by Mr. Wales, for ascertaining the -longitude of these islands, reduced by the watch to Port Sandwich in -Mallicollo, and Port Resolution in Tanna. - - {Mean of 10 sets of observ. before 167° 56ʹ 33ʺ 3/4 } E. Long. - { 2 Ditto, at 168 2 37 1/2 } - PORT { 20 Ditto, after 167 52 57 } - SANDWICH, { ------------------ - {Mean of those means, 167 57 22-3/4 - ------------------ - {Mean of 20 sets of observ. before 169 37 35 } E. Long. - PORT { 5 Ditto, at 169 48 48 } - RESOLUTION, { 20 Ditto, after 169 47 22-1/2 } - { ------------------ - {Mean of those means, 169 44 35 - ------------------ - -It is necessary to observe, that each set of observations, consisting of -between six and ten observed distances of the sun and moon, or moon and -stars, the whole number amounts to several hundreds; and these have been -reduced, by means of the watch, to all the islands; so that the -longitude of each is as well ascertained as that of the two ports -above-mentioned. As a proof of this I shall only observe, that the -longitude of the two ports, as pointed out by the watch and by the -observations, did not differ two miles. This also shows what degree of -accuracy these observations are capable of, when multiplied to a -considerable number, made with different instruments, and with the sun -and stars, or both sides of the moon. By this last method, the errors -which may be either in the instruments or lunar tables, destroy one -another, and likewise those which may arise from the observer himself; -for some men may observe closer than others. If we consider the number -of observations that may be obtained in the course of a month (if the -weather is favourable) we shall perhaps find this method of finding the -longitude of places as accurate as most others; at least it is the most -easy, and attended with the least expense to the observer. Every ship -that goes to foreign parts is, or may be, supplied with a sufficient -number of quadrants at a small expense; I mean good ones, proper for -making these observations. For the difference of the price between a -good and bad one, I apprehend, can never be an object with an officer. -The most expensive article, and what is in some measure necessary in -order to arrive at the utmost accuracy, is a good watch; but for common -use, and where that strict accuracy is not required, this may be -dispensed with. I have observed before, in this journal, that this -method of finding the longitude is not so difficult but that any man, -with proper application, and a little practice, may soon learn to make -these observations as well as the astronomers themselves. I have seldom -known any material difference between the observations made by Mr. -Wales, and those made by the officers at the same time.[9] - -In observing the variation of the magnetic needle, we found, as usual, -our compasses differ among themselves, sometimes near 2°; the same -compass, too, would sometimes make nearly this difference in the -variation on different days, and even between the morning and evening of -the same day, when our change of situation has been but very little. By -the mean of the observations which I made about Erromango, and the S. E. -part of these islands, the variation of the compass was 10° 5ʹ 48ʺ East; -and the mean of those made about Tierra del Espiritu Santo, gave 10° 5ʹ -30ʺ East. This is considerably more than Mr. Wales found it to be at -Tanna. I cannot say what might occasion this difference in the variation -observed at sea and on shore, unless it be influenced by the land; for I -must give the preference to that found at sea, as it is agreeable to -what we observed before we made the islands, and after we left them. - - - - - CHAP. VIII. - - AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF NEW CALEDONIA, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT - HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN BALADE. - - -At sun-rise on the 1st of September, after having stood to S. W. all -night, no more land was to be seen. The wind remaining in the S. E. -quarter, we continued to stand to S. W. On the 2d, at five o’clock -P. M., being in the latitude 18° 22ʹ, longitude 165° 26ʹ, the variation -was 10° 50ʹ East; and at the same hour on the 3d, it was 10° 51ʹ, -latitude at that time 19° 14ʹ, longitude 165° East. The next morning, in -the latitude of 19° 49ʹ, longitude 164° 53ʹ, the amplitude gave 10° 21ʹ, -and the azimuths 10° 7ʹ East. At eight o’clock, as we were steering to -the south, land was discovered bearing S. S. W., and at noon it extended -from S. S. E. to W. by S., distant about six leagues. We continued to -steer for it with a light breeze at east, till five in the evening, when -we were stopped by a calm. At this time we were three leagues from the -land, which extended from S. E. by S. to W. by N. round by the S. W. -Some openings appeared in the west, so that we could not tell whether it -was one connected land or a group of islands. To the S. E. the coast -seemed to terminate in a high promontory, which I named Cape Colnett, -after one of my midshipmen, who first discovered this land. Breakers -were seen about half-way between us and the shore; and, behind them, two -or three canoes under sail, standing out to sea, as if their design had -been to come off to us; but a little before sun-set they struck their -sails, and we saw them no more. After a few hours’ calm, we got a breeze -at S. E., and spent the night standing off and on. - -On the 5th, at sun-rise, the horizon being clear, we could see the coast -extend to the S. E. of Cape Colnett, and round by the S. W. to N. W. by -W. Some gaps or openings were yet to be seen to the west; and a reef, or -breakers, seemed to lie all along the coast, connected with those we -discovered the preceding night. It was a matter of indifference to me -whether we plied up the coast to the S. E. or bore down to N. W. I chose -the latter; and after running two leagues down the outside of the reef -(for such it proved), we came before an opening that had the appearance -of a good channel, through which we might go in for the land. I wanted -to get at it, not only to visit it, but also to have an opportunity to -observe an eclipse of the sun which was soon to happen. With this view -we brought to, hoisted out two armed boats, and sent them to sound the -channel, ten or twelve large sailing canoes being then near us. We had -observed them coming off from the shore, all the morning, from different -parts; and some were lying on the reef, fishing as we supposed. As soon -as they all got together, they came down to us in a body, and were -pretty near when we were hoisting out our boats, which probably gave -them some alarm; for, without stopping, they hauled in for the reef, and -our boats followed them. We now saw that what we had taken for openings -in the coast was low land, and that it was all connected, except the -western extremity, which was an island, known by the name of Balabea, as -we afterwards learnt. - -The boats having made a signal for a channel, and one of them being -placed on the point of the reef, on the weather side of it, we stood in -with the ship, and took up the other boat in our way, when the officer -informed me, that where we were to pass, was sixteen and fourteen -fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom, and that, having put along-side two -canoes, he found the people very obliging and civil. They gave him some -fish; and, in return, he presented them with medals, &c. In one was a -stout robust young man, whom they understood to be a chief. After -getting within the reef, we hauled up S. 1/2 E. for a small low sandy -isle that we observed lying under the shore, being followed by all the -canoes. Our sounding, in standing in, was from fifteen to twelve -fathoms, (a pretty even fine sandy bottom,) for about two miles; then we -had six, five, and four fathoms. This was on the tail of a shoal which -lies a little without the small isle to the N. E. Being over it, we -found seven and eight fathoms water, which shallowed gradually, as we -approached the shore, to three fathoms, when we tacked, stood off a -little, and then anchored in five fathoms, the bottom a fine sand mixed -with mud. The little sandy isle bore E. by S. three quarters of a mile -distant; and we were one mile from the shore of the main, which extended -from S. E. by E. round by the south to W. N. W. The island of Balabea -bore N. W. by N., and the channel, through which we came, north, four -miles distant. In this situation we were extremely well sheltered from -the reigning winds, by the sandy isle and its shoals, and by the shoal -without them. - -We had hardly got to an anchor before we were surrounded by a great -number of the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom -were without any sort of weapons. At first they were shy of coming near -the ship; but in a short time we prevailed on the people in one boat to -get close enough to receive some presents. These we lowered down to them -by a rope; to which, in return, they tied two fish that stunk -intolerably, as did those they gave us in the morning. These mutual -exchanges bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured on board the -ship; and presently after she was filled with them, and we had the -company of several at dinner in the cabin. Our pea-soup, salt-beef, and -pork, they had no curiosity to taste; but they eat of some yams, which -we happened to have yet left, calling them _Oobee_. This name is not -unlike _Oofee_, as they are called at most of the islands, except -Mallicollo; nevertheless, we found these people spoke a language new to -us. Like all the nations we had lately seen, the men were almost naked, -having hardly any other covering but such a wrapper as is used at -Mallicollo.[10] They were curious in examining every part of the ship, -which they viewed with uncommon attention. They had not the least -knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats, and had not even a name for one -of them. They seemed fond of large spike-nails, and pieces of red cloth, -or indeed of any other colour; but red was their favourite. - -[Illustration: _View in the Island of New Caledonia._] - -After dinner I went on shore with two armed boats, having with us one of -the natives who had attached himself to me. We landed on a sandy beach -before a vast number of people, who had got together with no other -intent than to see us; for many of them had not a stick in their hands; -consequently we were received with great courtesy, and with the surprise -natural for people to express at seeing men and things so new to them as -we must be. I made presents to all those my friend pointed out, who were -either old men, or such as seemed to be of some note; but he took not -the least notice of some women who stood behind the crowd, holding my -hand when I was going to give them some beads and medals. Here we found -the same chief who had been seen in one of the canoes in the morning. -His name, we now learnt, was Teabooma; and we had not been on shore -above ten minutes, before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed -by every individual present, he made a short speech; and soon after -another chief having called for silence, made a speech also. It was -pleasing to see with what attention they were heard. Their speeches were -composed of short sentences; to each of which two or three old men -answered, by nodding their heads, and giving a kind of grunt, -significant, as I thought, of approbation. It was impossible for us to -know the purport of these speeches; but we had reason to think they were -favourable to us, on whose account they doubtless were made. I kept my -eyes fixed on the people all the time, and saw nothing to induce me to -think otherwise. While we were with them, having inquired, by signs, for -fresh water, some pointed to the east, and others to the west. My friend -undertook to conduct us to it, and embarked with us for that purpose. We -rowed about two miles up the coast to the east, where the shore was -mostly covered with mangrove trees; and entering amongst them, by a -narrow creek or river, which brought us to a little straggling village -above all the mangroves, there we landed, and were shown fresh water. -The ground near this village was finely cultivated, being laid out in -plantations of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roots; and -watered by little rills, conducted by art from the main stream, whose -source was in the hills. Here were some cocoa-nut trees, which did not -seem burdened with fruit. We heard the crowing of cocks, but saw none. -Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, which would have -held six or eight gallons; nor did we doubt its being their own -manufacture. As we proceeded up the creek, Mr. Forster having shot a -duck flying over our heads, which was the first use these people saw -made of our fire-arms, my friend begged to have it; and when he landed, -told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day being far -spent, and the tide not permitting us to stay longer in the creek, we -took leave of the people, and got on board a little after sunset. From -this little excursion, I found that we were to expect nothing from these -people but the privilege of visiting their country undisturbed. For it -was easy to see they had little else than good-nature to bestow. In this -they exceeded all the nations we had yet met with; and, although it did -not satisfy the demands of nature, it at once pleased and left our minds -at ease. - -Next morning we were visited by some hundreds of the natives; some -coming in canoes, and others swimming off; so that before ten o’clock, -our decks, and all other parts of the ship, were quite full with them. -My friend, who was of the number, brought me a few roots, but all the -others came empty in respect to eatables. Some few had with them their -arms, such as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of -cloth, &c. After breakfast, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill with two armed -boats to look for fresh water; for what we found the day before was by -no means convenient for us to get on board. At the same time, Mr. Wales, -accompanied by Lieutenant Clerke, went to the little isle to make -preparations for observing the eclipse of the sun, which was to be in -the afternoon. Mr. Pickersgill soon returning, informed me that he had -found a stream of fresh water, pretty convenient to come at. I therefore -ordered the launch to be hoisted out to complete our water, and then -went to the isle to assist in the observation. - -About one P. M. the eclipse came on. Clouds interposed, and we lost the -first contact, but were more fortunate in the end, which was observed as -follows: - - By Mr. Wales with Dollond’s 3-1/2 foot achromatic } - refractor, at 3h 28ʹ 49-1/4ʺ} - By Mr. Clerke with Bird’s 2 foot reflector, } Apparent - at 3 28 52-1/4 } time - And by me with an 18 inch reflector, made } - by Watkins 3 28 53-1/4 } - -Latitude of the isle or place of observation, 20° 17ʹ 39ʺ south. - -Longitude per distance of the sun and moon, and moon and stars, 48 sets, - 164° 41ʹ 21ʺ east. - -Ditto per watch 163 58 0 - -Mr. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley’s quadrant, a -method never before thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose -of a micrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition -to the use of this most valuable instrument. After all was over, we -returned on board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after -slipped out of the ship without my knowledge, and by that means lost the -present I had made up for him. - -In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the -head of a little creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It -was necessary to have a small boat in the creek to convey the casks from -and to the beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the -launch; as only a small boat could enter the creek, and that only at -high water. Excellent wood for fuel was here far more convenient than -water, but this was an article we did not want. About seven o’clock this -evening, died Simon Monk, our butcher, a man much esteemed in the ship; -his death being occasioned by a fall down the fore-hatchway the -preceding night. - -Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a guard, under -the command of an officer, were sent ashore; and soon after, a party of -us went to take a view of the country. As soon as we landed, we made -known our design to the natives, and two of them undertaking to be our -guides, conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route -we met several people, most of whom turned back with us; so that at last -our train was numerous. Some we met who wanted us to return; but we paid -no regard to their signs, nor did they seem uneasy when we proceeded. At -length we reached the summit of one of the hills, from which we saw the -sea in two places, between some advanced hills on the opposite or S. W. -side of the land. This was an useful discovery, as it enabled us to -judge of the breadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed -ten leagues. - -Between those advanced hills and the ridge we were upon, was a large -valley, through which ran a serpentine river. On the banks of this were -several plantations, and some villages, whose inhabitants we had met on -the road, and found more on the top of the hill gazing at the ship, as -might be supposed. The plain or flat land, which lies along the shore we -were upon, appeared from the hills to a great advantage; the winding -streams which ran through it, the plantations, the little straggling -villages, the variety in the woods, and the shoals on the coast, so -variegating the scene, that the whole might afford a picture for -romance. Indeed, if it were not for those fertile spots on the plains, -and some few on the sides of the mountains, the whole country might be -called a dreary waste. The mountains and other high places are, for the -most part, incapable of cultivation, consisting chiefly of rocks, many -of which are full of mundicks. The little soil that is upon them is -scorched and burnt up with the sun; it is, nevertheless, coated with -coarse grass and other plants, and here and there trees and shrubs. The -country in general bore great resemblance to some parts of New Holland -under the same parallel of latitude, several of its natural productions -seeming to be the same, and the woods being without underwood, as in -that country. The reefs on the coast, and several other similarities, -were obvious to every one who had seen both countries. We observed all -the N. E. coast to be covered with shoals and breakers, extending to the -northward, beyond the isle of Balabea, till they were lost in the -horizon.—Having made these observations, and our guides not choosing to -go farther, we descended the mountains by a road different from that by -which we ascended. This brought us down through some of their -plantations in the plains, which, I observed, were laid out with great -judgment, and cultivated with much labour. Some of them were lying in -fallow; some seemingly lately laid down, and others of longer date, -pieces of which they were again beginning to dig up. The first thing I -observed they did, was to set fire to the grass, &c. which had over-run -the surface. Recruiting the land by letting it lie some years untouched, -is observed by all the nations in the sea; but they seem to have no -notion of manuring it, at least I have no where seen it done. Our -excursion was finished by noon, when we returned on board to dinner; and -one of our guides having left us, we brought the other with us, whose -fidelity was rewarded at a small expence. - -In the afternoon I made a little excursion along shore to the westward, -in company with Mr. Wales. Besides making observations on such things as -we met, we got the names of several places, which I then thought were -islands; but upon farther enquiry, I found they were districts upon this -same land. This afternoon, a fish being struck by one of the natives -near the watering-place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me after -my return on board. It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish, -with a large, long, ugly head. Having no suspicion of its being of a -poisonous nature, we ordered it to be dressed for supper; but very -luckily, the operation of drawing and describing took up so much time, -that it was too late, so that only the liver and row were dressed, of -which the two Mr. Forsters and myself did but taste. About three o’clock -in the morning, we found ourselves seized with an extraordinary weakness -and numbness all over our limbs. I had almost lost the sense of feeling, -nor could I distinguish between light and heavy bodies, of such as I had -strength to move; a quart pot full of water and a feather being the same -in my hand. We each of us took an emetic, and after that a sweat, which -gave us much relief. In the morning, one of the pigs which had eaten the -entrails was found dead. When the natives came on board and saw the fish -hang up, they immediately gave us to understand it was not wholesome -food, and expressed the utmost abhorrence of it; though no one was -observed to do this when the fish was to be sold, or even after it was -purchased. - -On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on shore as usual. In the -afternoon I received a message from the officer, acquainting me that -Teabooma, the chief, was come with a present, consisting of a few yams -and sugar-canes. In return I sent him, amongst other articles, a dog and -a bitch, both young, but nearly full grown. The dog was red and white, -but the bitch was all red, or the colour of an English fox. I mention -this, because they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that -country. When the officer returned on board in the evening, he informed -me that the chief came attended by about twenty men, so that it looked -like a visit of ceremony. It was some time before he would believe the -dog and bitch were intended for him; but as soon as he was convinced, he -seemed lost in an excess of joy, and sent them away immediately. - -Next morning early I dispatched Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert, -with the launch and cutter, to explore the coast to the west; judging -this would be better effected in the boats than in the ship, as the -reefs would force the latter several leagues from land. After breakfast, -a party of men was sent ashore to make brooms; but myself and the two -Mr. Forsters were confined on board, though much better, a good sweat -having had a happy effect. In the afternoon, a man was seen, both ashore -and alongside the ship, said to be as white as any European. From the -account I had of him (for I did not see him) his whiteness did not -proceed from hereditary descent, but from chance or some disease; and -such have been seen at Otaheite, and the Society Isles.[11] A fresh -easterly wind, and the ship lying a mile from the shore, did not hinder -these good-natured people from swimming off to us in shoals of twenty or -thirty, and returning the same way. - -On the 10th, a party was on shore as usual; and Mr. Forster so well -recovered as to go out botanizing. - -In the evening of the 11th the boats returned, when I was informed of -the following circumstances. From an elevation, which they reached the -morning they set out, they had a view of the coast. Mr. Gilbert was of -opinion, that they saw the termination of it to the west, but Mr. -Pickersgill thought not; though both agreed that there was no passage -for the ship that way. From this place, accompanied by two of the -natives, they went to Balabea, which they did not reach till after -sun-set, and left again next morning before sun-rise; consequently this -was a fruitless expedition, and the two following days were spent in -getting up to the ship. As they went down to the isle, they saw -abundance of turtle but the violence of the wind and sea made it -impossible to strike any. The cutter was near being lost, by suddenly -filling with water, which obliged them to throw several things -overboard, before they could free her and stop the leak she had sprung. -From a fishing canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got -as much fish as they could eat; and they were received by Teabi, the -chief of the isle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to see -them, with great courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, our -people drew a line on the ground, and gave the others to understand they -were not to come within it. This restriction they observed, and one of -them, soon after, turned it to his own advantage. For happening to have -a few cocoa-nuts, which one of our people wanted to buy, and he was -unwilling to part with, he walked off, and was followed by the man who -wanted them. On seeing this he sat down on the sand, made a circle round -him, as he had seen our people do, and signified that the other was not -to come within it; which was accordingly observed. As this story was -well attested, I thought it not unworthy of a place in this journal. - -Early in the morning of the 12th, I ordered the carpenter to work, to -repair the cutter, and the water to be replaced which we had expended -the three preceding days. As Teabooma, the chief, had not been seen -since he got the dogs, and I wanted to lay a foundation for stocking the -country with hogs also, I took a young boar and sow with me in the boat, -and went up the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give -them to him. But when we arrived there, we were told that he lived at -some distance, and that they would send for him. Whether they did or no, -I cannot say; but he not coming, I resolved to give them to the first -man of note I met with. The guide we had to the hills happening to be -there, I made him understand, that I intended to leave the two pigs on -shore, and ordered them out of the boat for that purpose. I offered them -to a grave old man, thinking he was a proper person to intrust them -with; but he shook his head, and he, and all present, made signs to take -them into the boat again. When they saw I did not comply, they seemed to -consult with one another what was to be done; and then our guide told me -to carry them to the _Alekee_ (chief). Accordingly I ordered them to be -taken up, and we were conducted by him to a house wherein were seated, -in a circle, eight or ten middle-aged persons. To them I and my pigs -being introduced, with great courtesy they desired me to sit down; and -then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs, explaining to -them how many young ones the female would have at one time, and how soon -these would multiply to some hundreds. My only motive was to enhance -their value, that they might take the more care of them; and I had -reason to think I, in some measure, succeeded. In the mean time, two men -having left the company, soon returned with six yams, which were -presented to me; and then I took leave and went on board. - -I have already observed, that here was a little village; I now found it -much larger than I expected; and, about it, a good deal of cultivated -land, regularly laid out, planted and planting with taro or eddy root, -yams, sugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations were prettily -watered by little rills, continually supplied from the main channel at -the foot of the mountains, from whence these streams were conducted in -artful meanders. They have two methods of planting these roots, some are -in square or oblong patches, which lie perfectly horizontal, and sink -below the common level of the adjacent land; so that they can let in on -them as much water as they think necessary. I have generally seen them -covered two or three inches deep; but I do not know that this is always -necessary. Others are planted in ridges about three or four feet broad, -and two, or two and a half high. On the middle or top of the ridge is a -narrow gutter, in and along which is conveyed, as above described, a -little rill that waters the roots planted in the ridge, on each side of -it; and these plantations are so judiciously laid out, that the same -stream waters several ridges. These ridges are sometimes the divisions -to the horizontal plantations; and when this method is used, which is -for the most part observed where a pathway or something of that sort is -requisite, not an inch of ground is lost. Perhaps there may be some -difference in the roots, which may make these two methods of raising -them necessary. Some are better tasted than others, and they are not all -of a colour. But be this as it may, they are a very wholesome food, and -the tops make good greens, and are eaten as such by the natives. On -these plantations, men, women, and children were employed. - -In the afternoon I went on shore, and, on a large tree, which stood -close to the shore, near the watering place, had an inscription cut, -setting forth the ship’s name, date, &c. as a testimony of our being the -first discoverers of this country, as I had done at all others at which -we had touched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, we -took leave of our friends, and returned on board; when I ordered all the -boats to be hoisted in, in order to be ready to put to sea in the -morning. - - - - - CHAP. IX. - - A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS; THEIR MANNERS, - CUSTOMS, AND ARTS. - - -I shall conclude our transactions at this place with some account of the -country and its inhabitants. They are strong, robust, active, well-made -people, courteous and friendly, and not in the least addicted to -pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other nation in this -sea. They are nearly of the same colour as the natives of Tanna, but -have better features, more agreeable countenances, and are a much -stouter race; a few being seen who measured six feet four inches. I -observed some who had thick lips, flat noses, and full cheeks, and, in -some degree, the features and look of a negro. Two things contributed to -the forming of such an idea; first, their ruff mop heads; and secondly, -their besmearing their faces with black pigment. Their hair and beards -are, in general, black. The former is very much frizzled; so that, at -first sight, it appears like that of a negro. It is, nevertheless, very -different; though both coarser and stronger than ours. Some, who wear it -long, tie it up on the crown of the head; others suffer only a large -lock to grow on each side, which they tie up in clubs; many others, as -well as all the women, wear it cropped short. These rough heads, most -probably, want frequent scratching, for which purpose they have a most -excellent instrument. This is a kind of comb made of sticks of hard -wood, from seven to nine inches long, and about the thickness of -knitting needles. A number of these, seldom exceeding twenty, but -generally fewer, are fastened together at one end, parallel to, and near -1/10th of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are a little -pointed, will spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by which -means they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time. These -combs or scratchers, for I believe they serve both purposes, they always -wear in their hair, on one side their head. The people of Tanna have an -instrument of this kind, for the same use; but theirs is forked, I think -never exceeding three or four prongs; and sometimes only a small pointed -stick. Their beards, which are of the same crisp nature as their hair, -are, for the most part, worn short. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet -are common among the men; as also a swelling of the scrotum. I know not -whether this is occasioned by disease, or by the mode of applying the -wrapper before mentioned, and which they use as at Tanna and Mallicollo. -This is their only covering, and is made generally of the bark of a -tree, but sometimes of leaves. The small pieces of cloth, paper, &c. -which they got from us, were commonly applied to this use. We saw coarse -garments amongst them, made of a sort of matting, but they seemed never -to wear them, except when out in their canoes and unemployed. Some had a -kind of concave, cylindrical, stiff black cap, which appeared to be a -great ornament among them, and, we thought, was only worn by men of -note, or warriors. A large sheet of strong paper, when they got one from -us, was generally applied to this use. - -The women’s dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of the -plantain tree, laid over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied -round the waist. The petticoat is made at least six or eight inches -thick, but not one inch longer than necessary for the use designed. The -outer filaments are dyed black; and, as an additional ornament, the most -of them have a few pearl oyster-shells fixed on the right side. The -general ornaments of both sexes, are ear-rings of tortoise-shell, -necklaces or amulets, made both of shells and stones, and bracelets, -made of large shells, which they wear above the elbow. They have -punctures, or marks on the skin, on several parts of the body; but none, -I think, are black, as at the eastern islands. I know not if they have -any other design than ornament; and the people of Tanna are marked much -in the same manner. - -Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I should take them to be a -race between the people of Tanna and of the Friendly Isles; or between -those of Tanna and the New Zealanders, or all three; their language, in -some respects, being a mixture of them all. In their disposition they -are like the natives of the Friendly Isles, but in affability and -honesty they excel them. - -Notwithstanding their pacific inclination, they must sometimes have -wars, as they are well provided with offensive weapons; such as clubs, -spears, darts, and slings for throwing stones. The clubs are about two -feet and a half long, and variously formed; some like a scythe, others -like a pick-axe; some have a head like an hawk, and others have round -heads; but all are neatly made. Many of their darts and spears are no -less neat, and ornamented with carvings. The slings are as simple as -possible; but they take some pains to form the stones that they use into -a proper shape; which is something like an egg, supposing both ends to -be like the small one. They use a becket, in the same manner as at -Tanna, in throwing the dart, which, I believe, is much used in striking -fish, &c. In this they seem very dexterous; nor, indeed, do I know that -they have any other method of catching large fish; for I neither saw -hooks nor lines among them. - -It is needless to mention their working tools, as they are made of the -same materials, and nearly in the same manner, as at the other islands. -Their axes, indeed, are a little different; some, at least; which may be -owing to fancy as much as custom. - -Their houses, or at least most of them, are circular; something like a -bee-hive, and full as close and warm. The entrance is by a small door, -or long square hole, just big enough to admit a man bent double. The -side walls are about four feet and a half high; but the roof is lofty, -and peaked to a point at the top, above which is a post or stick of -wood, which is generally ornamented either with carving or shells, or -both. The framing is of small spars, reeds, &c. and both sides and roof -are thick and close covered with thatch, made of coarse long grass. In -the inside of the house are set up posts, to which cross spars are -fastened and platforms made for the conveniency of laying any thing on. -Some houses have two floors, one above the other. The floor is laid with -dry grass, and here and there mats are spread for the principal people -to sleep or sit on. In most of them we found two fire-places, and -commonly a fire burning, and, as there was no vent for the smoke but by -the door, the whole house was both smoky and hot, insomuch that we, who -are not used to such an atmosphere, could hardly endure it a moment. -This may be the reason why we found these people so chilly when in the -open air and without exercise. We frequently saw them make little fires -any where, and hustle round them, with no other view than to warm -themselves. Smoke within doors may be a necessary evil, as it prevents -the musquitoes from coming in, which are pretty numerous here. In some -respects their habitations are neat; for, besides the ornaments at top, -I saw some with carved door-posts. Upon the whole, their houses are -better calculated for a cold than a hot climate; and as there are no -partitions in them, they can have little privacy. - -They have no great variety of household utensils; the earthen jars -before mentioned being the only article worth notice. Each family has, -at least, one of them, in which they bake their roots, and perhaps their -fish, &c. The fire by which they cook their victuals, is on the outside -of each house, in the open air. There are three or five pointed stones -fixed in the ground, their pointed ends being about six inches above the -surface, in this form: [Illustration] Those of three stones, are only -for one jar, those of five stones, for two. The jars do not stand on -their bottoms, but lie inclined on their sides. The use of these stones -is, obviously, to keep the jars from resting on the fire, in order that -it may burn the better. - -They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and the bark of a tree, which I -am told grows also in the West Indies. This they roast, and are almost -continually chewing. It has a sweetish, insipid taste; and was liked by -some of our people. Water is their only liquor; at least, I never saw -any other made use of. - -Plantains and sugar-canes are by no means in plenty. Bread-fruit is very -scarce, and the cocoa-nut trees are small and but thinly planted; and -neither one nor the other seems to yield much fruit. - -To judge merely by the numbers of the natives we saw every day, one -might think the island very populous; but, I believe, that at this time, -the inhabitants were collected from all parts on our account. Mr. -Pickersgill observed, that down the coast, to the west, there were but -few people; and we knew they came daily from the other side of the land, -over the mountains, to visit us. But although the inhabitants, upon the -whole, may not be numerous, the island is not thinly peopled on the -sea-coast, and in the plains and valleys that are capable of -cultivation. It seems to be a country unable to support many -inhabitants. Nature has been less bountiful to it than to any other -tropical island we know in this sea. The greatest part of its surface, -or at least what we saw of it, consists of barren, rocky mountains, and -the grass, &c. growing on them, is useless to people who have no cattle. - -The sterility of the country will apologize for the natives not -contributing to the wants of the navigator. The sea may, perhaps, in -some measure, compensate for the deficiency of the land; for a coast -surrounded by reefs and shoals as this is, cannot fail of being stored -with fish. - -I have before observed, that the country bears great resemblance to New -South Wales, or New Holland, and that some of its natural productions -are the same. In particular, we found here the tree which is covered -with a soft white ragged bark, easily peeled off, and is, as I have been -told, the same that in the East Indies is used for caulking of ships. -The wood is very hard, the leaves are long and narrow, of a pale dead -green, and a fine aromatic; so that it may properly be said to belong to -that continent. Nevertheless, here are several plants, &c. common to the -eastern and northern islands, and even a species of the passion-flower, -which, I am told, has never before been known to grow wild any where but -in America. Our botanists did not complain for want of employment at -this place; every day bringing something new in botany or other branches -of natural history. Land-birds, indeed, are not numerous, but several -are new. One of these is a kind of crow, at least so we called it, -though it is not half so big, and its feathers are tinged with blue. -They also have some very beautiful turtle-doves, and other small birds, -such as I never saw before. - -All our endeavours to get the name of the whole island proved -ineffectual. Probably, it is too large for them to know by one name. -Whenever we made this enquiry, they always gave us the name of some -district or place, which we pointed to; and, as before observed, I got -the names of several, with the name of the king or chief of each. Hence, -I conclude, that the country is divided into several districts, each -governed by a chief; but we know nothing of the extent of his power. -Balade was the name of the district we were at, and Tea Booma the chief. -He lived on the other side of the ridge of hills, so that we had but -little of his company, and therefore could not see much of his power. -_Tea_ seems a title prefixed to the names of all or most of their chiefs -or great men. My friend honoured me by calling me _Tea_ Cook. - -They deposit their dead in the ground. I saw none of their -burying-places; but several of the gentlemen did. In one, they were -informed, lay the remains of a chief, who was slain in battle; and his -grave, which bore some resemblance to a large molehill, was decorated -with spears, darts, paddles, &c. all stuck upright in the ground round -about it. - -The canoes which these people use, are somewhat like those of the -Friendly Isles: but the most heavy, clumsy vessels I ever saw. They are -what I call double canoes, made out of two large trees hollowed out, -having a raised gunnel about two inches high, and closed at each end -with a kind of bulk head of the same height; so that the whole is like a -long square trough, about three feet shorter than the body of the canoe; -that is, a foot and an half at each end. Two canoes, thus fitted, are -secured to each other, about three feet asunder, by means of cross -spars, which project about a foot over each side. Over these spars is -laid a deck or very heavy platform, made of plank and small round spars, -on which they have a fire hearth, and generally a fire burning; and they -carry a pot or jar to dress their victuals in. The space between the two -canoes is laid with plank, and the rest with spars. On one side of the -deck, and close to the edge, is fixed a row of knees, pretty near to -each other, the use of which is to keep the mast, yards, &c. from -rolling over-board. They are navigated by one or two latteen sails, -extended to a small latteen yard, the end of which fixes in a notch or -hole in the deck. The foot of the sail is extended to a small boom. The -sail is composed of pieces of matting, the ropes are made of the coarse -filaments of the plantain tree, twisted into cords of the thickness of a -finger; and three or four more such cords, marled together, serve them -for shrouds, &c. I thought they sailed very well; but they are not at -all calculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when -they cannot sail, is by sculling; and for this purpose there are holes -in the boarded deck or platform. Through these they put the sculls, -which are of such a length, that, when the blade is in the water, the -loom or handle is four or five feet above the deck. The man who works it -stands behind, and with both his hands sculls the vessel forward. This -method of proceeding is very slow, and for this reason, the canoes are -but ill calculated for fishing, especially for striking of turtle, -which, I think, can hardly ever be done in them. Their fishing -implements, such as I have seen, are turtle nets, made, I believe, of -the filaments of the plantain tree, twisted; and small hand nets, with -very minute meshes made of fine twine and fish gigs. Their general -method of fishing, I guess, is to lie on the reefs in shoal water, and -to strike the fish that may come in their way. They may, however, have -other methods, which we had no opportunity to see, as no boat went out -while we were here, all their time and attention being taken up with us. -Their canoes are about thirty feet long, and the deck or platform about -twenty-four in length and ten in breadth. We had not, at this time, seen -any timber in the country so large as that of which their canoes were -made. It was observed, that the holes made in the several parts, in -order to sew them together, were burnt through, but with what instrument -we never learnt; most probably it was of stone; which may be the reason -why they were so fond of large spikes, seeing at once they would answer -this purpose. I was convinced they were not wholly designed for edge -tools; because every one showed a desire for the iron belaying pins -which were fixed in the quarter deck rail, and seemed to value them far -more than a spike-nail, although it might be twice as big. These pins, -which are round, perhaps have the very shape of the tool they wanted to -make of the nails. I did not find that a hatchet was quite so valuable -as a large spike. Small nails were of little or no value; and beads, -looking-glasses, &c. they did not admire. - -The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are, so far as I -could judge, far more chaste than those of the more eastern islands. I -never heard that one of our people obtained the least favour from any -one of them. I have been told, that the ladies here would frequently -divert themselves, by going a little aside with our gentlemen, as if -they meant to be kind to them, and then would run away laughing at them. -Whether this was chastity or coquetry, I shall not pretend to determine; -nor is it material, since the consequences were the same. - - - - - CHAP. X. - - PROCEEDINGS ON THE COAST OF NEW CALEDONIA, WITH GEOGRAPHICAL AND - NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS. - - -Every thing being in readiness to put to sea, at sunrise, on the 13th of -September, we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S., stood out for -the same channel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle -of it. Observatory Isle bore S. 5° E., distant four miles, and the Isle -of Balabea W. N. W. As soon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the -wind on the starboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S. E.; but -as Mr. Gilbert was of opinion that he had seen the end or N. W. -extremity of the land, and that it would be easier to get round by the -N. W., I gave over plying, and bore up along the outside of the reef, -steering N. N. W., N. W., and N. W. by W. as it trended. At noon the -island of Balabea bore S. by W., distant thirteen miles; and what we -judged to be the west end of the great land, bore S. W. 1/2 S., and the -direction of the reef was N. W. by W., latitude observed 19° 53ʹ 20ʺ. -Longitude from Observatory Isle 14ʹ W. We continued to steer N. W. by W. -along the outside of the reef till three o’clock, at which time the Isle -of Balabea bore S. by E. 1/2 E. In this direction we observed a -partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by the strong -tide which set out of it. From this place the reef inclined to the -north, for three or four leagues, and then to N. W. We followed its -direction, and as we advanced to N. W., raised more land, which seemed -to be connected with what we had seen before; so that Mr. Gilbert was -mistaken, and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five o’clock -this land bore W. by N. 1/2 N., distant twenty miles; but what we could -see of the reef trended in the direction of N. W. by N. - -Having hauled the wind on the starboard tack, and spent the night -plying, on the 14th, at sunrise, the Island of Balabea bore S. 6° East, -and the land seen the preceding night west, but the reef still trended -N. W., along which we steered, with a light breeze at E. S. E. At noon -we observed in latitude 19° 28ʹ, longitude from Observatory Isle 27ʹ -West. We had now no sight of Balabea; and the other land, that is, the -N. W. part of it, bore W. by S. 1/2 S.; but we were not sure if this was -one continued coast, or separate islands. For though some partitions -were seen, from space to space, which made it look like the latter, a -multitude of shoals rendered a nearer approach to it exceedingly -dangerous, if not impracticable. In the afternoon, with a fine breeze at -E. S. E., we ranged the outside of these shoals, which we found to trend -in the direction of N. W. by W., N. W. by N., and N. N. E. At three -o’clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outer edge of the reef; -in latitude 19° 25ʹ, and in the direction of N. E. from the -north-westernmost land, six or seven leagues distant. So much as we -could see of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached from -each other; and the channel leading in amongst them, appeared to be on -the S. E. side of the sandy isle; at least there was a space where the -sea did not break. At sunset, we could but just see the land, which bore -S. W. by S., about ten leagues distant. A clear horizon produced the -discovery of no land to the westward of this direction; the reef too, -trended away W. by N. 1/2 N., and seemed to terminate in a point which -was seen from the mast head. Thus every thing conspired to make us -believe that we should soon get round these shoals; and with these -flattering expectations we hauled the wind, which was at E. N. E., and -spent the night making short boards. - -Next morning, at sunrise, seeing neither land nor breakers, we bore away -N. W. by W., and two hours after saw the reef extending N. W. farther -than the eye could reach; but no land was to be seen. It was therefore -probable, that we had passed its N. W. extremity; and, as we had seen -from the hills of Balade its extent to the S. W., it was necessary to -know how far it extended to the E. or S. E. while it was in our power to -recover the coast. For, by following the direction of the shoals, we -might have been carried so far to leeward as not to be able to beat back -without considerable loss of time. We were already far out of sight of -land; and there was no knowing how much farther we might be carried, -before we found an end to them. These considerations, together with the -risk we must run in exploring a sea strewed with shoals, and where no -anchorage, without them, is to be found, induced me to abandon the -design of proceeding round by the N. W., and to ply up to the S. E., in -which direction I knew there was a clear sea. With this view, we tacked -and stood to the S. E., with the wind at N. E. by E., a gentle breeze. -At this time we were in the latitude of 19° 7ʹ S., longitude 165° 57ʹ -East. - -In standing to S. E. we did but just weather the point of the reef we -had passed the preceding evening. To make our situation the more -dangerous, the wind began to fail us; and at three in the afternoon it -fell calm, and left us to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly -on the reef, which was hardly a league from us. We sounded, but found no -bottom, with a line of 200 fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to -be hoisted out to tow the ship; but they were of little use against so -great a swell. We, however, found that the ship did not draw near the -reef so fast as might be expected; and at seven o’clock, a light air at -N. N. E. kept her head to the sea, but it lasted no longer than -midnight, when it was succeeded by a dead calm. - -At day-break, on the 16th, we had no sight of the reef; and at eleven, a -breeze springing up at S. S. W. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail -to S. E. At noon we observed in 19° 35ʹ South, which was considerably -more to the south than we expected, and showed that a current or tide -had been in our favour all night, and accounted for our getting so -unexpectedly clear of the shoals. At two o’clock P. M. we had again a -calm, which lasted till nine, when it was succeeded by a light air from -E. N. E. and E., with which we advanced but slowly. - -On the 17th, at noon, we observed in latitude 19° 54ʹ, when the Isle of -Balabea bore S. 60° West, ten and a half leagues distant. We continued -to ply, with variable light winds, between N. E. and S. E. without -meeting with any thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape -Colnet bore N. 78° West, distant six leagues. From this cape the land -extended round by the south to E. S. E. till it was lost in the horizon; -and the country appeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude observed -20° 41ʹ, longitude made from Observatory Isle 1° 8ʹ East. We stood in -shore with a light breeze at east till sunset, when we were between two -and three leagues off. The coast extended from S. 42° 1/2 East to N. 59° -West. Two small islets lay without this last direction, distant from us -four or five miles; some others lay between us and the shore, and to the -east, where they seemed to be connected by reefs, in which appeared some -openings from space to space. The country was mountainous, and had much -the same aspect as about Balade. On one of the western small isles was -an elevation like a tower; and, over a low neck of land within the isle, -were seen many other elevations resembling the masts of a fleet of -ships. - -Next day, at sunrise, after having stood off all night with a light -breeze at S. E., we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast; -and in this situation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening, -when we got a faint land breeze at S. W., with which we steered S. E. -all night. - -On the 22d, at sunrise, the land was clouded, but it was not long before -the clouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a -good advance. At ten o’clock, the land-breeze being succeeded by a -sea-breeze at E. by S., this enabled us to stand in for the land, which -at noon extended from N. 78° West, to S. 31-1/2° East, round by the -south. In this last direction the coast seemed to trend more to the -south in a lofty promontory, which, on account of the day, received the -name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2ʹ, longitude 167° 7-1/2ʹ East. -Some breakers lay between us and the shore, and probably they were -connected with those we had seen before. - -During the night we had advanced about two leagues to S. E., and at -day-break, on the 23d, an elevated point appeared in sight beyond Cape -Coronation, bearing S. 23° East. It proved to be the S. E. extremity of -the coast, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte’s Foreland. Latitude -22° 16ʹ S., longitude 167° 14ʹ East. About noon, having got a breeze -from the N. E., we stood to S. S. E., and, as we drew towards Cape -Coronation, saw in a valley to the south of it, a vast number of those -elevated objects before-mentioned; and some low land under the Foreland -was wholly covered with them. We could not agree in our opinions of what -they were. I supposed them to be a singular sort of trees, being too -numerous to resemble any thing else; and a great deal of smoke kept -rising all the day from amongst those near the Cape. Our philosophers -were of opinion that this was the smoke of some internal and perpetual -fire. My representing to them that there was no smoke here in the -morning, would have been of no avail, had not this eternal fire gone out -before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They were still more -positive, that the elevations were pillars of basaltes, like those which -compose the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. At sunset, the wind veering -round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe to -approach the shore in the dark. At day-break we stood in again, with a -faint land-breeze between E. S. E. and S. S. E. At noon observed in -latitude 21° 59ʹ 30ʺ, Cape Coronation bearing west southerly, distant -seven leagues, and the Foreland S. 38° West. As we advanced to S. S. W. -the coast beyond the Foreland began to appear in sight; and, at sunset, -we discovered a low island lying S. S. E., about seven miles from the -Foreland. It was one of those which are generally surrounded with shoals -and breakers. At the same time a round hill was seen bearing S. 24° -East, twelve leagues distant. During night, having had variable light -winds, we advanced but little either way. - -On the 25th, about ten o’clock A. M., having got a fair breeze at -E. S. E., we stood to S. S. W., in hopes of getting round the Foreland; -but, as we drew near, we perceived more low isles beyond the one already -mentioned, which at last appeared to be connected by breakers, extending -towards the Foreland, and seeming to join the shore. We stood on till -half-past three o’clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks just peeping -above the surface of the sea, on the shoal above mentioned. It was now -time to alter the course, as the day was too far spent to look for a -passage near the shore, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during -the night. We therefore stood to the south, to look for a passage -without the small isles. We had a fine breeze at E. S. E., but it lasted -no longer than five o’clock, when it fell to a dead calm. Having -sounded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reach the bottom, though we were -but a little way from the shoals, which, instead of following the coast -to S. W., took a S. E. direction towards the hill we had seen the -preceding evening, and seemed to point out to us that it was necessary -to go round that land. At this time the most advanced point on the main -bore S. 68° West, distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o’clock we -got a light breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out E. S. E., and -to spend the night with less anxiety. On some of the low isles were many -of those elevations already mentioned. Every one was now satisfied they -were trees, except our philosophers; who still maintained that they were -basaltes. - -About day break, on the 26th, the wind having shifted to S. S. W., we -stretched to S. E. for the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an -island, which at noon extended from S. 16° E. to S. 7° West, distant six -leagues. Latitude observed 22° 16ʹ South. In the P. M. the wind -freshened, and, veering to S. S. E., we stretched to the east, till two -A. M. on the 27th, when we tacked and stood to S. W. with hopes of -weathering the island; but we fell about two miles short of our -expectations, and had to tack about a mile from the east side of the -island, the extremes bearing from N. W. by N. to S. W. the hill west, -and some low isles, lying off the S. E. point, S. by W. These seemed to -be connected with the large island by breakers. We sounded when in -stays, but had no ground with a line of eighty fathoms. The skirts of -this island were covered with the elevations more than once mentioned. -They had much the appearance of tall pines, which occasioned my giving -that name to the island. The round hill, which is on the S. W. side, is -of such a height as to be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. The island -is about a mile in circuit, and situated in latitude 22° 38ʹ S., -longitude 167° 40ʹ East. Having made two attempts to weather the Isle of -Pines before sunset, with no better success than before, this determined -me to stretch off till midnight. This day at noon the thermometer was at -68° 3/4, which is lower than it had been since the 27th of February. - -Having tacked at midnight, assisted by the currents, and a fresh gale at -E. S. E. and S. E., next morning, at daybreak, we found ourselves -several leagues to windward of the Isle of Pines, and bore away large, -round the S. E., and south sides. The coast from the S. E., round by the -south to the west, was strewed with sand-banks, breakers, and small low -isles, most of which were covered with the same lofty trees that -ornamented the borders of the greater one. We continued to range the -outside of these small isles and breakers, at three-fourths of a league -distance, and as we passed, one raised another; so that they seemed to -form a chain extending to the isles which lie off the Foreland. At noon -we observed, in latitude 22° 44ʹ 36ʺ South, the Isle of Pines, extending -from N. by E. 1/2 E. to E. by N., and Cape Coronation N. 32° 30ʹ West, -distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with a fine gale at E., we -steered N. W. by W. along the outside of the shoals, with a view of -falling in with the land a little to S. W. of the Foreland. At two -o’clock P. M. two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they -were connected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard, -this discovery made it necessary to haul off S. W. in order to get clear -of them all. At three, more breakers appeared, extending from the low -isles towards the S. E. We now hauled out close to the wind; and, in an -hour and an half, were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to -tack. From the mast-head, they were seen to extend as far as E. S. E., -and the smoothness of the sea made it probable that they extended to the -north of east, and that we were in a manner surrounded by them. At this -time the hill on the Isle of Pines bore N. 71-1/2° East, the Foreland N. -1/4 W., and the most advanced point of land on the S. W. coast bore -N. W., distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. This direction of the S. W. -coast, which was rather within the parallel of the N. E., assured us -that this land extended no farther to the S. W. After making a short -trip to N. N. E., we stood again to the south, in expectation of having -a better view of the shoals before sunset. We gained nothing by this but -the prospect of a sea strewed with shoals, which we could not clear but -by returning in the track by which we came. We tacked nearly in the same -place where we had tacked before, and on sounding found a bottom of fine -sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of breakers to -leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night in -making short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made -ourselves acquainted with in the day. And thus it was spent; but under -the terrible apprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the many -dangers which surrounded us. - -Daylight showed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that we had -been in the most imminent danger; having had breakers continually under -our lee, and at a very little distance from us. We owed our safety to -the interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk -manner in which the ship was managed; for, as we were standing to the -north, the people on the lee gangway and forecastle saw breakers under -the lee-bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship. - -I was now almost tired of a coast which I could no longer explore, but -at the risk of losing the ship and ruining the whole voyage. I was, -however, determined not to leave it, till I knew what trees those were -which had been the subject of our speculation; especially as they -appeared to be of a sort useful to shipping, and had not been seen any -where but in the southern part of this land. With this view, after -making a trip to the south, to weather the shoals under our lee, we -stood to the north, in hopes of finding anchorage under some of the -islets on which these trees grew. We were stopped by eight o’clock by -the shoals which lie extended between the Isle of Pines and Queen -Charlotte’s Foreland; and found soundings off them in fifty-five, forty, -and thirty-six fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The nearer we came to these -shoals, the more we saw of them, and we were not able to say if there -was any passage between the two lands. - -Being now but a few miles to windward of the low isles lying off the -Foreland, mentioned on the 25th and 26th, I bore down to the one next to -us. As we drew near it I perceived that it was unconnected with the -neighbouring shoals, and that it is probable we might get to an anchor -under its lee or west side. We therefore stood on, being conducted by an -officer at the mast-head; and after hauling round the point of the reef -which surrounds the isle, we attempted to ply to windward, in order to -get nearer the shore. Another reef to the north confined us to a narrow -channel, through which ran a current against us, that rendered this -attempt fruitless; so that we were obliged to anchor in thirty-nine -fathoms’ water, the bottom fine coral sand; the isle bearing W. by N., -one mile distant. As soon as this was done, we hoisted out a boat, in -which I went ashore, accompanied by the botanists. We found the tall -trees to be a kind of spruce pine, very proper for spars, of which we -were in want. After making this discovery, I hastened on board in order -to have more time after dinner, when I landed again with two boats, -accompanied by several of the officers and gentlemen, having with us the -carpenter and some of his crew, to cut down such trees as were wanting. -While this was doing, I took the bearings of several lands round. The -hill on the Isle of Pines bore S. 59° 30ʹ E.; the low point of Queen -Charlotte’s Foreland N. 14° 30ʹ West; the high land over it, seen over -two low isles, N. 20° West; and the most advanced point of land to the -west, bore west, half a point south, distant six or seven leagues. We -had, from several bearings, ascertained the true direction of the coast -from the Foreland to this point, which I shall distinguish by the name -of Prince of Wales’s Foreland. It is situated in the latitude of 22° 29ʹ -S., longitude 166° 57ʹ E., is of a considerable height, and, when it -first appears above the horizon, looks like an island. From this cape -the coast trended nearly N. W. This was rather too northerly a direction -to join that part which we saw from the hills of Balade. But as it was -very high land which opened off the cape in that direction, it is very -probable that lower land, which we could not see, opened sooner; or else -the coast more to the N. W. takes a more westerly direction, in the same -manner as the N. E. coast. Be this as it may, we pretty well know the -extent of the land, by having it confined within certain limits. -However, I still entertained hopes of seeing more of it; but was -disappointed. - -The little isle upon which we landed, is a mere sand bank, not exceeding -three-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew -the _Etos_ tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, and -plants. These gave sufficient employment to our botanists, all the time -we staid upon it, and occasioned my calling it Botany Isle. On it were -several water-snakes, some pigeons and doves, seemingly different from -any we had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of -the very same sort as our English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, -branches, and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, &c. showed -that people had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe, precisely -of the same shape as those we had seen at Balade, lay wrecked in the -sand. We were now no longer at a loss to know of what trees they make -their canoes, as they can be no other than these pines. On this little -isle were some which measured twenty inches diameter, and between sixty -and seventy feet in length, and would have done very well for a -fore-mast to the Resolution, had one been wanting. Since trees of this -size are to be found on so small a spot, it is reasonable to expect to -find some much larger on the main, and larger isles, and, if appearances -did not deceive us, we can assert it. - -If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, knew of no island in the South -Pacific Ocean, where a ship could supply herself with a mast or a yard, -were she ever so much distressed for want of one. Thus far the discovery -is or may be valuable. My carpenter, who was a mast-maker as well as a -ship-wright, two trades he learnt in Deptford yard, was of opinion that -these trees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white, -close-grained, tough, and light. Turpentine had exuded out of most of -the trees, and the sun had inspissated it into a rosin, which was found -sticking to the trunks, and lying about the roots. These trees shoot out -their branches like all other pines; with this difference, that the -branches of these are much smaller and shorter; so that the knots become -nothing when the tree is wrought for use. I took notice, that the -largest of them had the smallest and shortest branches, and were -crowned, as it were, at the top, by a spreading branch like a bush. This -was what led some on board into the extravagant notion of their being -basaltes: indeed, no one could think of finding such trees here.—The -seeds are produced in cones; but we could find none that had any in -them, or that were in a proper state for vegetable or botanical -examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub of the -spruce fir kind; but it was very small. We also found on the isle a sort -of scurvy-grass, and a plant, called by us Lamb’s Quarters, which, when -boiled, eat like spinnage. - -Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding sail booms, -boats’-masts, &c., and night approaching, we returned with them on -board. - -The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was -now to consider what was next to be done. We had, from the topmast head, -taken a view of the sea around us, and observed the whole, to the west, -to be strewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost -extent of our horizon. They seemed, indeed, not to be all connected, and -to be divided by winding channels. But when I considered, that the -extent of this S. W. coast was already pretty well determined; the great -risk attending a more accurate survey, and the time it would require to -accomplish it, on account of the many dangers we should have to -encounter, I determined not to hazard the ship down to leeward, where we -might be so hemmed in as to find it difficult to return, and by that -means lose the proper season for getting to the south. I now wished to -have had the little vessel set up, the frame of which we had on board. I -had some thoughts of doing this when we were last at Otaheite, but found -it could not be executed, without neglecting the caulking and other -necessary repairs of the ship, or staying longer there than the route I -had in view would admit. It was now too late to begin setting her up, -and then to use her in exploring this coast; and in our voyage to the -south, she could be of no service. These reasons induced me to try to -get without the shoals; that is, to the southward of them. - -Next morning, at day-break, we got under sail, with a light breeze at E. -by N. We had to make some trips to weather the shoals to leeward of -Botany Isle; but when this was done, the breeze began to fail; and at -three P. M. it fell calm. The swell, assisted by the current, set us -fast to S. W. towards the breakers, which were yet in sight in that -direction. Thus we continued till ten o’clock, at which time a breeze -springing up at N. N. W. we steered E. S. E., the contrary course we had -come in; not daring to steer farther south till day-light. - -At three o’clock next morning, the wind veered to S. W., blew hard, and -in squalls, attended with rain, which made it necessary to proceed with -our courses up, and topsails on the cap, till day-break, when the hill -on the Isle of Pines bore N., and our distance from the shore in that -direction was about four leagues. We had now a very strong wind at -S. S. W., attended by a great sea, so that we had reason to rejoice at -having got clear of the shoals before this gale overtook us. Though -every thing conspired to make me think this was the westerly monsoon, it -can hardly be comprehended under that name, for several reasons; first, -because it was near a month too soon for these winds; secondly, because -we know not if they reach this place at all; and lastly, because it is -very common for westerly winds to blow within the tropics. However, I -never found them to blow so hard before, or so far southerly. Be these -things as they may, we had now no other choice but to stretch to S. E., -which we accordingly did, with our starboard tacks aboard; and at noon -were out of sight of land. - -The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at -which time we observed in latitude 23° 18ʹ, longitude made from the Isle -of Pines 1° 54ʹ East. In the afternoon we had little wind from the -south, and a great swell from the same direction; and many boobies, -tropic, and men-of-war birds were seen. At eleven o’clock a fresh breeze -sprung up at W. by S., with which we stood to the south. At this time we -were in the latitude of 23° 18ʹ, longitude 169° 49ʹ E., and about -forty-two leagues south of the Hebrides. - -At eight o’clock in the morning, on the 3d, the wind veered to S. W., -and blew a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. I now gave over -all thought of returning to the land we had left. Indeed, when I -considered the vast ocean we had to explore to the south; the state and -condition of the ship, already in want of some necessary stores; that -summer was approaching fast; and that any considerable accident might -detain us in this sea another year; I did not think it advisable to -attempt to regain the land. - -Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, to -leave a coast I had discovered, before it was fully explored. I called -it New Caledonia; and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps the -largest island in the South Pacific Ocean; for it extends from the -latitude of 19° 37ʹ to 22° 30ʹ S., and from the longitude of 163° 37ʹ to -167° 14ʹ E. It lies nearly N. W. 1/2 W., and S. E. 1/2 E., and is about -eighty-seven leagues long in that direction; but its breadth is not -considerable, not any where exceeding ten leagues. It is a country full -of hills and valleys, of various extent both for height and depth. To -judge of the whole by the parts we were on, from these hills spring vast -numbers of little rivulets, which greatly contribute to fertilize the -plains, and to supply all the wants of the inhabitants. The summits of -most of the hills seem to be barren; though some few are clothed with -wood; as are all the plains and valleys. By reason of these hills, many -parts of the coast, when at a distance from it, appeared indented, or to -have great inlets between the hills; but, when we came near the shore, -we always found such places shut up with low land, and also observed low -land to lie along the coast between the sea-shore and the foot of the -hills. As this was the case in all such parts as we came near enough to -see, it is reasonable to suppose that the whole coast is so. I am -likewise of opinion, that the whole, or greatest part, is surrounded by -reefs or shoals, which render the access to it very dangerous, but at -the same time guard the coast from the violence of the wind and sea; -make it abound with fish; secure an easy and safe navigation along it, -for canoes, &c. and most likely form some good harbours for shipping. -Most, if not every part of the coast is inhabited, the Isle of Pines not -excepted; for we saw either smoke by day, or fires by night, wherever we -came. In the extent which I have given to this island is included the -broken or unconnected lands to the N. W., as they are delineated in the -chart. That they may be connected, I shall not pretend to deny; we were -however of opinion that they were isles, and that New Caledonia -terminated more to S. E., though this, at most, is but a well-founded -conjecture. - -But whether these lands be separate isles, or connected with New -Caledonia, it is by no means certain that we saw their termination to -the west. I think we did not, as the shoals did not end with the land we -saw, but kept their N. W. direction farther than Bougainville’s track in -the latitude of 15° or 15-1/2°. Nay, it seems not improbable, that a -chain of isles, sand-banks, and reefs, may extend to the west, as far as -the coast of New South Wales. The eastern extent of the isles and shoals -off that coast, between the latitude of 15° and 23°, were not known. The -semblance of the two countries;[12] Bougainville’s meeting with the -shoal of Diana above sixty leagues from the coast, and the signs he had -of land to the S. E., all tend to increase the probability. I must -confess that it is carrying probability and conjecture a little too far, -to say what may lie in a space of two hundred leagues; but it is in some -measure necessary, were it only to put some future navigator on his -guard. - -Mr. Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia we -explored, by ninety-six sets of observations, which were reduced to one -another by our trusty guide the watch. I found the variation of the -compass to be 10° 24ʹ E. This is the mean variation given by the three -azimuth compasses we had on board, which would differ from each other a -degree and a half, and sometimes more. I did not observe any difference -in the variation between the N. W. and S. E. parts of this land, except -when we were at anchor before Balade, where it was less than 10°; but -this I did not regard, as I found such an uniformity out at sea; and it -is there where navigators want to know the variation. While we were on -the N. E. coast, I thought the currents set to S. E. and W. or N. W. on -the other side; but they are by no means considerable, and may as -probably be channels of tides as regular currents. In the narrow -channels which divide the shoals, and those which communicate with the -sea, the tides run strong; but their rise and fall are inconsiderable, -not exceeding three feet and a half. The time of high water, at the full -and change, at Balade, is about six o’clock; but at Botany Isle we -judged it would happen about ten or eleven o’clock. - - - - - CHAP. XI. - -SEQUEL OF THE PASSAGE FROM NEW CALEDONIA TO NEW ZEALAND, WITH AN ACCOUNT - OF THE DISCOVERY OF NORFOLK ISLAND; AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED - WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND. - - -The wind continuing at S. W., W. S. W. and W. blowing a fresh gale, and -now and then squalls, with showers of rain, we steered to S. S. E., -without meeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the -6th, when it fell calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 27° 50ʹ -S., longitude 171° 43ʹ E. The calm continued till noon the next day, -during which time we observed the variation to be 10° 33-1/2ʹ E. I now -ordered the carpenters to work to caulk the decks. As we had neither -pitch, tar, nor rosin, left to pay the seams, this was done with varnish -of pine, and afterwards covered with coral sand, which made a cement far -exceeding my expectation. In the afternoon, we had a boat in the water, -and shot two albatrosses, which were geese to us. We had seen one of -this kind of birds the day before, which was the first we observed since -we had been within the tropic. On the 7th, at one P. M., a breeze sprung -up at south; soon after it veered to, and fixed at S. E. by S., and blew -a gentle gale, attended with pleasant weather. - -We stretched to W. S. W., and next day at noon were in the latitude of -28° 25ʹ, longitude 170° 26ʹ E. In the evening, Mr. Cooper having struck -a porpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring to, and have two -boats out, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet -long; a female of that kind, which naturalists call dolphin of the -antients, and which differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head -and jaw, having them long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in -each jaw. The haslet and lean flesh were to us a feast. The latter was a -little liverish, but had not the least fishy taste. It was eaten -roasted, broiled, and fried, first soaking it in warm water. Indeed -little art was wanting to make any thing fresh, palatable to those who -had been living so long on salt meat. - -We continued to stretch to W. S. W. till the 10th, when, at day-break, -we discovered land bearing S. W., which on a nearer approach we found to -be an island of good height, and five leagues in circuit. I named it -Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It is situated in -the latitude of 29° 2ʹ 30ʺ S., and longitude 168° 16ʹ E. The latter was -determined by lunar observations made on this, the preceding, and -following days; and the former, by a good observation at noon, when we -were about three miles from the isle. Soon after we discovered the isle -we sounded in twenty-two fathoms on a bank of coral sand; after this we -continued to sound, and found not less than twenty-two, or more than -twenty-four fathoms (except near the shore), and the same bottom mixed -with broken shells. After dinner, a party of us embarked in two boats, -and landed on the island, without any difficulty, behind some large -rocks which lined part of the coast on the N. E. side. - -We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set -foot on it. We observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand; -and, in particular, the flax plant, which is rather more luxuriant here -than in any part of that country; but the chief produce is a sort of -spruce pine, which grows in great abundance, and to a large size, many -of the trees being as thick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and -exceedingly straight and tall. This pine is of a sort between that which -grows in New Zealand and that in New Caledonia; the foliage differing -something from both; and the wood not so heavy as the former, nor so -light and close-grained as the latter. It is a good deal like the Quebec -pine. For about two hundred yards from the shore the ground is covered -so thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly to be penetrated farther -inland. The woods were perfectly clear and free from underwood, and the -soil seemed rich and deep. - -We found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and paroquets as in New -Zealand, rails, and some small birds. The sea fowl are, white boobies, -gulls, tern, &c. which breed undisturbed on the shores, and in the -cliffs of the rocks. - -On the isle is fresh water; and cabbage-palm, wood-sorrel, sow thistle, -and samphire abounding in some places on the shores; we brought on board -as much of each sort as the time we had to gather them would admit. -These cabbage-trees, or palms, were not thicker than a man’s leg, and -from ten to twenty feet high. They are of the same genus with the -cocoa-nut tree; like it, they have large pinnated leaves, and are the -same as the second sort found in the northern parts of New South -Wales.[13] The cabbage is, properly speaking, the bud of the tree; each -tree producing but one cabbage, which is at the crown, where the leaves -spring out, and is inclosed in the stem. The cutting off the cabbage -effectually destroys the tree; so that no more than one can be had from -the same stem. The cocoa-nut tree, and some others of the palm kind, -produce cabbage as well as these. This vegetable is not only wholesome, -but exceedingly palatable, and proved the most agreeable repast we had -for some time. - -The coast does not want fish. While we were on shore, the people in the -boats caught some which were excellent. I judged that it was high water -at the full and change, about one o’clock, and that the tide rises and -falls upon a perpendicular about four or five feet. - -The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in the -boats; and stretching to E. N. E. (with the wind at S. E.) till -midnight, we tacked, and spent the remainder of the night making short -boards. - -Next morning, at sun-rise, we made sail, stretching to S. S. W., and -weathered the island, on the south side of which lie two isles, that -serve as roosting and breeding-places for birds. On this, as also on the -S. E. side, is a sandy beach; whereas most of the other shores are -bounded by rocky cliffs which have twenty and eighteen fathoms water -close to them; at least so we found it on the N. E. side, and with good -anchorage. A bank of coral sand, mixed with shells, on which we found -from nineteen to thirty-five or forty fathoms water, surrounds the isle, -and extends, especially to the south, seven leagues off. The morning we -discovered the island the variation was found to be 13° 9ʹ E.; but I -think this observation gave too much, as others, which we had both -before and after, gave 2° less. - -After leaving Norfolk Isle, I steered for New Zealand, my intention -being to touch at Queen Charlotte’s Sound, to refresh my crew, and put -the ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes. - -On the 17th, at day-break, we saw Mount Egmont, which was covered with -everlasting snow, bearing S. E. 1/2 E. Our distance from the shore was -about eight leagues, and, on sounding, we found seventy fathoms water, a -muddy bottom. The wind soon fixed in the western board, and blew a fresh -gale, with which we steered S. S. E. for Queen Charlotte’s Sound, with a -view of falling in with Cape Stephens. At noon Cape Egmont bore -E. N. E., distant three or four leagues; and though the mount was hid in -the clouds, we judged it to be in the same direction as the Cape; -latitude observed 39° 24ʹ. The wind increased in such a manner as to -oblige us to close reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant yards. At -last we could bear no more sail than the two courses, and two -close-reefed top-sails; and under them we stretched for Cape Stephens, -which we made at eleven o’clock at night. - -At midnight we tacked, and made a trip to the north till three o’clock -next morning, when we bore away for the sound. At nine we hauled round -Point Jackson, through a sea which looked terrible, occasioned by a -rapid tide and a high wind; but as we knew the coast, it did not alarm -us. At eleven o’clock we anchored before Ship Cove; the strong flurries -from off the land not permitting us to get in. - -In the afternoon, as we could not move the ship, I went into the cove, -with the seine, to try to catch some fish. The first thing I did after -landing was to look for the bottle I left hid when last here, in which -was the memorandum. It was taken away; but by whom it did not appear. -Two hauls with the seine producing only four small fish, we, in some -measure, made up for this deficiency, by shooting several birds, which -the flowers in the garden had drawn thither, as also some old shags, and -by robbing the nests of some young ones. - -Being little wind next morning, we weighed, and warped the ship into the -Cove, and there moored with the two bowers. We unbent the sails to -repair them, several having been split, and otherwise damaged in the -late gale. The main and four courses, already worn to the very utmost, -were condemned as useless. I ordered the top-masts to be struck and -unrigged, in order to fix to them moveable chocks or knees, for want of -which the trestle-trees were continually breaking; the forge to be set -up, to make bolts and repair our iron-work; and tents to be erected on -shore for the reception of a guard, coopers, sail-makers, &c. I likewise -gave orders that vegetables (of which there were plenty) should be -boiled every morning with oat-meal and portable broth for breakfast, and -with peas and broth every day for dinner for the whole crew, over and -above their usual allowance of salt malt. - -In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was setting up his observatory, he -discovered that several trees, which were standing when we last sailed -from this place, had been cut down with saws and axes; and a few days -after, the place where an observatory, clock, &c. had been set up, was -also found, in a spot different from that where Mr. Wales had placed -his. It was therefore now no longer to be doubted that the Adventure had -been in this cove after we had left it. - -Next day, winds southerly, hazy cloudy weather. Every body went to work -at their respective employments, one of which was to caulk the ship’s -sides, a thing much wanted. The seams were paid with putty, made with -cook’s fat and chalk; the gunner happening to have a quantity of the -latter on board. - -The 21st, wind southerly, with continual rains. - -The weather being fair in the afternoon of the 22d, accompanied by the -botanists, I visited our gardens on Motuara, which we found almost in a -state of nature, having been wholly neglected by the inhabitants. -Nevertheless, many articles were in a flourishing condition, and showed -how well they liked the soil in which they were planted. None of the -natives having yet made their appearance, we made a fire on the point of -the island; in hopes, if they saw the smoke, they might be induced to -come to us. - -Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two -canoes were seen coming down the sound; but as soon as they perceived -the ship, they retired behind a point on the west side. After breakfast -I went in a boat to look for them; and as we proceeded along the shore, -we shot several birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of our -approach, and the natives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by -hallooing to us; but as we drew near to their habitations, they all fled -to the woods, except two or three men, who stood on a rising ground near -the shore, with their arms in their hands. The moment we landed, they -knew us. Joy then took place of fear, and the rest of the natives -hurried out of the woods, and embraced us over and over again, leaping -and skipping about like madmen; but I observed that they would not -suffer some women, whom we saw at a distance, to come near us. After we -had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and what else we had with -us, they gave us in return a large quantity of fish, which they had just -caught. There were only a few amongst them whose faces we could -recognise; and on our asking why they were afraid of us, and inquiring -for some of our old acquaintances by name, they talked much about -killing, which was so variously understood by us, that we could gather -nothing from it; so that, after a short stay, we took leave, and went on -board. - -Next morning early, our friends, according to a promise they made us the -preceding evening, paying us a visit, brought with them a quantity of -fine fish, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. and then -returned to their habitations. - -On the 26th we got into the after-hold four boatload of shingle ballast, -and struck down six guns, keeping only six on deck. Our good friends the -natives having brought us a plentiful supply of fish, afterwards went on -shore to the tents, and informed our people there, that a ship like ours -had been lately lost in the Strait; that some of the people got on -shore; and that the natives stole their clothes, &c. for which several -were shot; that afterwards, when they could fire no longer, the natives -having got the better, killed them with their _Patapatoos_, and eat -them; but that they themselves had no hand in the affair, which, they -said, happened at Vanna Aroa, near Teerawhitte, on the other side of the -Strait. One man said it was two moons ago; but another contradicted him, -and counted on his fingers about twenty or thirty days. They described -by actions how the ship was beat to pieces, by going up and down against -the rocks, till at last it was all scattered abroad. - -The next day some others told the same story, or nearly to the same -purport, and pointed over the East Bay, which is on the east side of the -sound, as to the place where it happened. These stories making me very -uneasy about the Adventure, I desired Mr. Wales, and those on shore, to -let me know if any of the natives should mention it again, or to send -them to me; for I had not heard any thing from them myself. When Mr. -Wales came on board to dinner, he found the very people who had told him -the story on shore, and pointed them out to me. I inquired about the -affair, and endeavoured to come at the truth by every method I could -think of. All I could get from them was, _Caurey_ (no); and they not -only denied every syllable of what they had said on shore, but seemed -wholly ignorant of the matter; so that I began to think our people had -misunderstood them, and that the story referred to some of their own -people and boats. - -On the 28th, fresh gales westerly, and fair weather. We rigged and -fitted the top-masts. Having gone on a shooting-party to West Bay, we -went to the place where I left the hogs and fowls; but saw no vestiges -of them, nor of any body having been there since. In our return, having -visited the natives, we got some fish in exchange for trifles which we -gave them. As we were coming away, Mr. Forster thought he heard the -squeaking of a pig in the woods, close by their habitations; probably, -they may have those I left with them when last here. In the evening we -got on board, with about a dozen and an half of wild fowl, shags, and -sea-pies. The sportsmen who had been out in the woods near the ship, -were more successful among the small birds. - -On the 29th and 30th nothing remarkable happened, except that in the -evening of the latter all the natives left us. - -The 31st being a fine pleasant day, our botanists went over to Long -Island, where one of the party saw a large black boar. As it was -described to me, I thought it to be one of those which Captain Furneaux -left behind, and had been brought over to this isle by those who had it -in keeping. Since they did not destroy those hogs when first in their -possession, we cannot suppose they will do it now; so that there is -little fear but that this country will, in time, be stocked with these -animals, both in a wild and domestic state. - -Next day we were visited by a number of strangers, who came from up the -sound, and brought with them but little fish. Their chief commodity was -green stone or talc, an article which never came to a bad market; and -some of the largest pieces of it I had ever seen were got this day. - -On the 2d I went over to the east side of the sound, and, without -meeting any thing remarkable, returned on board in the evening, when I -learnt that the same people who visited us the preceding day had been on -board most of this, with their usual article of trade. - -On the 3d, Mr. Pickersgill met with some of the natives, who related to -him the story of a ship being lost, and the people being killed; but -added, with great earnestness, it was not done by them. - -On the 4th fine pleasant weather. Most of the natives now retired up the -sound. Indeed, I had taken every gentle method to oblige them to be -gone; for since these new-comers had been with us, our old friends had -disappeared, and we had been without fish. Having gone over to Long -Island to look for the hog which had been seen there, I found it to be -one of the sows left by Captain Furneaux; the same that was in -possession of the natives when we were last here. From a supposition of -its being a boar, I had carried over a sow to leave with him; but on -seeing my mistake, brought her back, as the leaving her there would -answer no end. - -Early in the morning of the 5th, our old friends made us a visit, and -brought a seasonable supply of fish. At the same time I embarked in the -pinnace with Messrs. Forsters and Sparrman, in order to proceed up the -sound. I was desirous of finding the termination of it; or rather, of -seeing if I could find any passage out to sea by the S. E., as I -suspected from some discoveries I had made when first here. In our way -up we met with some fishers, of whom we made the necessary inquiry; and -they all agreed that there was no passage to sea by the head of the -sound. As we proceeded, we some time after met a canoe, conducted by -four men, coming down the sound. These confirmed what the others had -said, in regard to there being no passage to sea the way we were going; -but gave us to understand that there was one to the east, in the very -place where I expected to find it. I now laid aside the scheme of going -to the head of the sound, and proceeded to this arm, which is on the -S. E. side, about four or five leagues above the Isle of Motuara. - -A little within the entrance on the S. E. side, at a place called -Kotieghenooee, we found a large settlement of the natives. The chief; -whose name was Tringo-boohee, and his people, whom we found to be some -of those who had lately been on board the ship, received us with great -courtesy. They seemed to be pretty numerous both here and in the -neighbourhood. Our stay with them was short, as the information they -gave us encouraged us to pursue the object we had in view. Accordingly, -we proceeded down the arm E. N. E. and E. by N., leaving several fine -coves on both sides, and at last found it to open into the strait by a -channel about a mile wide, in which ran out a strong tide; having also -observed one setting down the arm, all the time we had been in it. It -was now about four o’clock in the afternoon; and in less than an hour -after, this tide ceased, and was succeeded by the flood, which came in -with equal strength. - -The outlet lies S. E. by E., and N. W. by W., and nearly in the -direction of E. S. E., and W. N. W. from Cape Terrawhitte. We found -thirteen fathoms water a little within the entrance, clear ground. It -seemed to me that a leading wind was necessary to go in and out of this -passage, on account of the rapidity of the tides. I, however, had but -little time to make observations of this nature, as night was at hand, -and I had resolved to return on board. On that account, I omitted -visiting a large _hippa_, or strong-hold, built on an elevation on the -north side, and about a mile or two within the entrance. The inhabitants -of it, by signs, invited us to go to them; but, without paying any -regard to them, we proceeded directly for the ship, which we reached by -ten o’clock, bringing with us some fish we had got from the natives, and -a few birds we had shot. Amongst the latter, were some of the same kind -of ducks we found in Dusky Bay; and we have reason to believe that they -are all to be met with here. For the natives knew them all by the -drawings, and had a particular name for each. - -On the 6th, wind at N. E., gloomy weather with rain. Our old friends -having taken up their abode near us, one of them, whose name was Pedero, -(a man of some note,) made me a present of a staff of honour, such as -the chiefs generally carry. In return, I dressed him in a suit of old -clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine person and a -good presence; and nothing but his colour distinguished him from an -European. Having got him and another into a communicative mood, we began -to enquire of them if the Adventure had been there during my absence, -and they gave us to understand in a manner that admitted of no doubt, -that soon after we were gone she arrived, that she staid between ten and -twenty days, and had been gone ten months. They likewise asserted, that -neither she nor any other ship had been stranded on the coast, as had -been reported. This assertion, and the manner in which they related the -coming and going of the Adventure, made me easy about her; but did not -wholly set aside our suspicions of a disaster having happened to some -other strangers. Besides what has been already related, we had been told -that a ship had lately been here, and was gone to a place called Terato, -which is on the north side of the Strait. Whether this story related to -the former or no, I cannot say. Whenever I questioned the natives about -it, they always denied all knowledge of it; and for some time past had -avoided mentioning it. It was but a few days before, that one man -received a box on the ear for naming it to some of our people. - -After breakfast, I took a number of hands over to Long-Island, in order -to catch the sow, to put her to the boar, and remove her to some other -place; but we returned without seeing her. Some of the natives had been -there not long before us, as their fires were yet burning; and they had -undoubtedly taken her away. Pedero dined with us, ate of every thing at -table, and drank more wine than any one of us, without being in the -least affected by it. - -The 7th, fresh gales at N. E. with continual rain. - -The 8th, fore-part rain, remainder fair weather. We put two pigs, a boar -and a sow, on shore, in the cove next without Cannibal Cove; so that it -is hardly possible all the methods I have taken to stock this country -with these animals should fail. We had also reason to believe that some -of the cocks and hens which I left here still existed, although we had -not seen any of them; for an hen’s egg was, some days before, found in -the woods almost new laid. - -On the 9th, wind westerly or N. W. squally, with rain. In the morning we -unmoored, and shifted our birth farther out of the cove, for the more -ready getting to sea the next morning; for, at present, the caulkers had -not finished the sides, and till this work was done we could not sail. -Our friends having brought us a very large and seasonable supply of -fish, I bestowed on Pedero a present of an empty oil-jar, which made him -as happy as a prince. Soon after, he and his party left the cove, and -retired to their proper place of abode, with all the treasure they had -received from us. I believe that they gave away many of the things they, -at different times, got from us, to their friends, and neighbours, or -else parted with them to purchase peace of their more powerful enemies; -for we never saw any of our presents after they were once in their -possession; and every time we visited them they were as much in want of -hatchets, nails, &c. to all appearance, as if they never had had any -among them. - -I am satisfied that the people in this Sound, who are, upon the whole, -pretty numerous, are under no regular form of government, or so united -as to form one body politic. The head of each tribe, or family, seems to -be respected; and that respect may, on some occasions, command -obedience; but I doubt if any amongst them have either a right or power -to enforce it. The day we were with Tringo-boohee, the people came from -all parts to see us, which he endeavoured to prevent. But though he went -so far as to throw stones at some, I observed that very few paid any -regard either to his words or actions; and yet this man was spoken of as -a chief of some note. I have, before, made some remarks on the evils -attending these people for want of union among themselves; and the more -I was acquainted with them, the more I found it to be so. -Notwithstanding they are cannibals, they are naturally of a good -disposition, and have not a little humanity. - -In the afternoon a party of us went ashore into one of the coves, where -were two families of the natives variously employed; some sleeping, some -making mats, others roasting fish and fir roots, and one girl, I -observed, was heating of stones. Curious to know what they were for, I -remained near her. As soon as the stones were made hot, she took them -out of the fire, and gave them to an old woman, who was sitting in the -hut. _She_ placed them in a heap, laid over them a handful of green -celery, and over that a coarse mat, and then squatted herself down, on -her heels, on the top of all; thus making a kind of Dutch warming-pan, -on which she sat as close as a hare on her seat. I should hardly have -mentioned this operation, if I had thought it had no other view than to -warm the old woman’s backside. I rather suppose it was intended to cure -some disorder she might have on her, which the steams arising from the -green celery might be a specific for. I was led to think so by there -being hardly any celery in the place, we having gathered it long before; -and grass, of which there was great plenty, would have kept the stones -from burning the mat full as well, if that had been all that was meant. -Besides, the woman looked to me sickly, and not in a good state of -health. - -Mr. Wales from time to time communicated to me the observations he had -made in this Sound for determining the longitude, the mean results of -which give 174° 25ʹ 7ʺ 1/2 E. for the bottom of Ship Cove, where the -observations were made; and the latitude of it is 41° 5ʹ 56ʺ 1/2 S. In -my chart, constituted in my former voyage, this place is laid down in -184° 54ʹ 30ʺ West, equal to 175° 5ʹ 30ʺ E. The error of the chart is -therefore, 0° 40ʹ 0ʺ, and nearly equal to what was found at Dusky Bay; -by which it appears that the whole of Tavai-poenammoo is laid down 40ʹ -too far east in the said chart, as well as in the journal of the voyage. -But the error in Eaheino-mauwe is not more than half a degree, or thirty -minutes; because the distance between Queen Charlotte’s Sound and Cape -Palliser has been found to be greater by 10ʹ of longitude than it is -laid down in the chart. I mention these errors, not from a fear that -they will affect either navigation or geography, but because I have no -doubt of their existence; for, from the multitude of observations which -Mr. Wales took, the situation of few parts of the world is better -ascertained than Queen Charlotte’s Sound. Indeed, I might, with equal -truth, say the same of all the other places where we made any stay; for -Mr. Wales, whose abilities are equal to his assiduity, lost no one -observation that could possibly be obtained. Even the situation of those -islands which we passed without touching at them, is, by means of -Kendal’s watch, determined with almost equal accuracy. The error of the -watch from Otaheite to this place was only 43ʹ 39ʺ 1/4 in longitude, -reckoning at the rate it was found to go at, at that island and at -Tanna; but by reckoning at the rate it was going when last at Queen -Charlotte’s Sound, and from the time of our leaving it, to our return to -it again, which was near a year, the error was 19ʹ 31ʺ, 25 in time, or -4° 52ʹ 48ʺ 3/4 in longitude. This error cannot be thought great, if we -consider the length of time, and that we had gone over a space equal to -upwards of three-fourths of the equatorial circumference of the earth, -and through all the climates and latitudes from 9° to 71°. Mr. Wales -found its rate of going here to be that of gaining 12ʺ, 576, on mean -time, per day. - -The mean result of all the observations he made for ascertaining the -variation of the compass and the dip of the south end of the needle, the -three several times we had been here, gave 14° 9ʹ 1/5 E. for the former, -and 64° 36ʺ 2/3 for the latter. He also found, from very accurate -observations, that the time of high-water preceded the moon’s southing, -on the full and change days, by three hours; and that the greatest rise -and fall of the water was five feet ten inches and a half; but there -were evident tokens on the beach of its having risen two feet higher -than it ever did in the course of his experiments. - - - - - BOOK IV. - - FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND. - - - - - CHAP. I. - - THE RUN FROM NEW ZEALAND TO TERRA DEL FUEGO, WITH THE RANGE FROM CAPE - DESEADA TO CHRISTMAS SOUND, AND DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST. - - -At daybreak on the 10th, with a fine breeze at W. N. W., we weighed and -stood out of the Sound; and, after getting round the Two Brothers, -steered for Cape Campbell, which is at the S. W. entrance of the Strait, -all sails set, with a fine breeze at north. At four in the afternoon, we -passed the Cape, at the distance of four or five leagues, and then -steered S. S. E. 1/2 E. with the wind at N. W. a gentle gale, and cloudy -weather. - -Next morning, the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced us -more to the east than I intended. At seven o’clock in the evening, the -snowy mountains bore W. by S., and Cape Palliser N. 1/2 W. distant -sixteen or seventeen leagues; from which Cape I for the third time took -my departure. After a few hours’ calm, a breeze springing up at north, -we steered S. by E. all sails set, with a view of getting into the -latitude of 54° or 55°; my intention being to cross this vast ocean -nearly in these parallels, and so as to pass over those parts which were -left unexplored the preceding summer. - -In the morning of the 12th, the wind increased to a fine gale: at noon -we observed in latitude 43° 13ʹ 30ʺ S., longitude 176° 41ʹ E., an -extraordinary fish of the whale kind was seen, which some called a -sea-monster. I did not see it myself. In the afternoon, our old -companions the pintado peterels began to appear. - -On the 13th, in the morning, the wind veered to W. S. W. At seven, -seeing the appearance of land to the S. W. we hauled up towards it, and -soon found it to be a fog-bank. Afterwards we steered S. E. by S. and -soon after saw a seal. At noon, latitude, by account, 44° 25ʹ, longitude -177° 31ʹ E. Foggy weather, which continued all the afternoon. At six in -the evening, the wind veered to N. E. by N. and increased to a fresh -gale, attended with thick hazy weather; course steered E. E. 1/4 S. - -On the 14th, A. M., saw another seal. At noon, latitude 45° 54ʹ, -longitude 179° 29ʹ E. - -On the 15th, A. M., the wind veered to the westward; the fog cleared -away, but the weather continued cloudy. At noon, latitude 47° 30ʹ, -longitude 178° 19ʹ W.; for, having passed the meridian of 180° E., I now -reckon my longitude west of the first meridian, viz. Greenwich. In the -evening heard penguins, and the next morning saw some sea or rock weed. -At noon a fresh gale from the west and fine weather. Latitude observed -49° 33ʹ, longitude 175° 31ʹ W. - -Next morning fresh gales and hazy weather; saw a seal and several pieces -of weed. At noon, latitude 51° 12ʹ, longitude 173° 17ʹ W. The wind -veered to the north and N. E. by N., blew a strong gale by squalls, -which split an old topgallant sail, and obliged us to double-reef the -topsails; but in the evening the wind moderated, and veered to W. N. W. -when we loosed a reef out of each topsail, and found the variation of -the compass to be 9° 52ʹ E., being then in the latitude 51° 47ʹ, -longitude 172° 21ʹ W.; and the next morning, the 18th, in the latitude -of 52° 25ʹ, longitude 170° 45ʹ W., it was 10° 26ʹ E. Towards noon, had -moderate but cloudy weather, and a great swell from the west: some -penguins and pieces of sea-weed seen. - -On the 19th, steered E. S. E. with a very fresh gale at N., hazy, dirty -weather. At noon, latitude 53° 43ʹ, longitude 166° 15ʹ W. - -On the 20th, steered E. by S. with a moderate breeze at N. attended with -thick hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54° 8ʹ, longitude 162° 18ʹ W. - -On the 21st, winds mostly from the N. E. a fresh gale attended with -thick, hazy, dirty weather. Course S. E. by S., latitude, at noon, 55° -31ʹ, longitude 160° 29ʹ W.; abundance of blue peterels and some penguins -seen. - -Fresh gales at N. W. by N. and N. by W., and hazy till towards noon of -the 22d, when the weather cleared up, and we observed in latitude 55° -48ʹ S., longitude 156° 56ʹ W. In the afternoon had a few hours’ calm; -after that, the wind came at S. S. E. and S. E. by S. a light breeze, -with which we steered east northerly. In the night the aurora australis -was visible, but very faint, and no ways remarkable. - -On the 23d, in the latitude of 55° 46ʹ S., longitude 156° 13ʹ W., the -variation was 9° 42ʹ E. We had a calm from ten in the morning till six -in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at west; at first it blew a -gentle gale, but afterwards freshened. Our course was now E. 1/2 N. - -On the 24th, a fresh breeze at N. W. by W. and N. by W. At noon, in -latitude 55° 38ʹ S., longitude 153° 37ʹ W., foggy in the night, but next -day had a fine gale at N. W. attended with clear pleasant weather; -course steered E. by N. In the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 8ʹ -S., longitude 148° 10ʹ W. the variation, by the mean of two compasses, -was 6° 35ʹ 1/2 E. - -Having a steady fresh gale at N. N. W. on the 26th and 27th, we steered -east, and at noon, on the latter, were in latitude 55° 6ʹ S., longitude -138° 56ʹ W. - -I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came -to a resolution to steer directly for the west entrance of the Straits -of Magalhaens, with a view of coasting the out or south side of Terra -del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait le Maire. As the world has but -a very imperfect knowledge of this shore, I thought the coasting of it -would be of more advantage, both to navigation and to geography, than -any thing I could expect to find in a higher latitude. In the afternoon -of this day, the wind blew in squalls, and carried away the main -topgallant mast. - -A very strong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on the 28th, -obliged us to double-reef the fore and main topsail, to hand the mizen -topsail, and get down the fore top-gallant yard. In the morning, the -bolt rope of the main topsail broke, and occasioned the sail to be -spilt. I have observed that the ropes to all our sails, the square sails -especially, are not of a size and strength sufficient to wear out the -canvass. At noon, latitude 55° 20ʹ S., longitude 134° 16ʹ W., a great -swell from N. W. albatrosses and blue peterels seen. - -Next day towards noon, the wind abating, we loosed all the reefs out of -the topsails, rigged another top-gallant mast, and got the yards across. -P. M. little wind, and hazy weather; at midnight calm, that continued -till noon the next day, when a breeze sprung up at E. with which we -stretched to the northward. At this time we were in the latitude 55° 32ʹ -S., longitude 128° 45ʹ W., some albatrosses and peterels seen. At eight -P. M. the wind veering to N. E. we tacked and stood to E. S. E. - -On the 1st of December, thick hazy weather, with drizzling rain, and a -moderate breeze of wind, which at three o’clock P. M. fell to a calm; at -this time in latitude 55° 41ʹ S., longitude 127° 5ʹ W. After four hours’ -calm, the fog cleared away, and we got a wind at S. E. with which we -stood N. E. - -Next day, a fresh breeze at S. E. and hazy foggy weather, except a few -hours in the morning, when we found the variation to be 1° 28ʹ E., -latitude 55° 17ʹ, longitude 125° 41ʹ W. The variation after this was -supposed to increase; for on the 4th, in the morning, being in latitude -53° 21ʹ, longitude 121° 31ʹ W., it was 3° 16ʹ E.; in the evening, in -latitude 53° 13ʹ, longitude 119° 46ʹ W. it was 3° 28ʹ E.; and on the -5th, at six o’clock in the evening, in latitude 53° 8ʹ, longitude 115° -58ʹ W., it was 4° 1ʹ E. - -For more than twenty-four hours having had a fine gale at S., this -enabled us to steer E., with very little deviation to the N.; and the -wind now altering to S. W. and blowing a steady fresh breeze, we -continued to steer E., inclining a little to S. - -On the 6th, had some snow showers. In the evening, being in latitude 53° -13ʹ, longitude 111° 12ʹ, the variation was 4° 58ʹ E.; and the next -morning, being in latitude 58° 16ʹ, longitude 109° 33ʹ, it was 5° 1ʹ E. - -The wind was now at W., a fine pleasant gale, sometimes with showers of -rain. Nothing remarkable happened, till the 9th, at noon, when being in -the latitude of 53° 37ʹ, longitude 103° 44ʹ W., the wind veered to N. E. -and afterwards came insensibly round to the S., by the E. and S. E. -attended with cloudy hazy weather, and some showers of rain. - -On the 10th, a little before noon, latitude 54°, longitude 102° 7ʹ W., -passed a small bed of sea-weed. In the afternoon the wind veered to -S. W., blew a fresh gale, attended with dark cloudy weather. We steered -E. half a point N.; and the next day, at six in the evening, being in -latitude 53° 35ʹ, longitude 95° 52ʹ W., the variation was 9° 58ʹ E. Many -and various sorts of albatrosses about the ship. - -On the 12th, the wind veered to the W. N. W. and in the evening to N.; -and, at last, left us to a calm. That continued till midnight, when we -got a breeze at S.; which, soon after, veering to, and fixing at, W. we -steered E.; and on the 14th, in the morning, found the variation to be -13° 25ʹ E., latitude 53° 25ʹ, longitude 87° 53ʹ W.; and in the -afternoon, being in the same latitude, and the longitude of 86° 2ʹ W. it -was 15° 3ʹ E., and increased in such a manner, that on the 15th, in the -latitude of 53° 30ʹ, longitude 82° 23ʹ W., it was 17° E.; and the next -evening, in the latitude of 53° 25ʹ, longitude 78° 40ʹ, it was 17° 38ʹ -E. About this time, we saw a penguin and a piece of weed; and the next -morning, a seal and some diving peterels. For the three last days, the -wind had been at W., a steady fresh gale, attended, now and then, with -showers of rain or hail. - -At six in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in the same latitude as -above, and in the longitude of 77° 10ʹ W., the variation was 18° 33ʹ E.; -and in the afternoon it was 21° 38ʹ, being at that time in latitude 53° -16ʹ S., longitude 75° 9ʹ W. In the morning, as well as in the afternoon, -I took some observations to determine the longitude by the watch; and -the results, reduced to noon, gave 76° 18ʹ 30ʺ W. At the same time, the -longitude, by my reckoning, was 76° 17ʹ W. But I have reason to think, -that we were about half a degree more to the west than either the one or -the other; our latitude, at the same time, was 53° 21ʹ S. - -We steered E. by N. and E. 1/2 N. all this day, under all the sail we -could carry, with a fine fresh gale at N. W. by W. in expectation of -seeing the land before night; but not making it till ten o’clock, we -took in the studding-sails, top-gallant sails, and a reef in each -topsail, and steered E. N. E. in order to make sure of falling in with -Cape Deseada. - -Two hours after, we made the land, extending from N. E. by N. to E. by -S. about six leagues distant. On this discovery, we wore and brought to, -with the ship’s head to the S., and having sounded, found seventy-five -fathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before us could -be no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west -entrance to the Straits of Magalhaens. - -As this was the first run that had been made directly across this ocean, -in a high southern latitude[14], I have been a little particular in -noting every circumstance that appeared in the least material; and after -all, I must observe that I never made a passage any where of such -length, or even much shorter, where so few interesting circumstances -occurred. For, if I except the variation of the compass, I know of -nothing else worth notice. The weather had been neither unusually stormy -nor cold. Before we arrived in the latitude of 50°, the mercury in the -thermometer fell gradually from sixty to fifty; and after we arrived in -the latitude of 55°, it was generally between forty-seven and -forty-five; once or twice it fell to forty-three. These observations -were made at noon. - -I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean; and flatter myself that -no one will think that I have left it unexplored; or that more could -have been done, in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been -done in this. - -Soon after we left New Zealand, Mr. Wales contrived, and fixed up an -instrument, which very accurately measured the angle the ship rolled, -when sailing large and in a great sea; and that in which she lay down, -when sailing upon a wind. The greatest angle he observed her to roll was -38°. This was on the 6th of this month, when the sea was not unusually -high; so that it cannot be reckoned the greatest roll she had made. The -most he observed her to heel or lie down, when sailing upon a wind, was -18°; and this was under double-reefed topsails and courses. - -On the 18th, at three in the morning, we sounded again, and found one -hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. We now made sail -with a fresh gale at N. W. and steered S. E. by E. along the coast. It -extended from Cape Deseada, which bore N. 7° E., to E. S. E., a pretty -high ragged isle, which lies near a league from the main, and S. 18° E. -six leagues from Cape Deseada, bore N. 49° E. distant four leagues; and -it obtained the name of Landfall. At four o’clock, we were north and -south of the high land of Cape Deseada, distant about nine leagues; so -that we saw none of the low rocks said to lie off it. The latitude of -this Cape is about 53° S. longitude 74° 40ʹ W. - -Continuing to range the coast, at about two leagues distance, at eleven -o’clock we passed a projecting point, which I called Cape Gloucester. It -shows a round surface of considerable height, and has much the -appearance of being an island. It lies S. S. E., 1/2 E., distant -seventeen leagues from the Isle of Landfall. The coast between them -forms two bays, strewed with rocky islets, rocks, and breakers. The -coast appeared very broken with many inlets; or rather it seemed to be -composed of a number of islands. The land is very mountainous, rocky, -and barren, spotted, here and there, with tufts of wood, and patches of -snow. At noon Cape Gloucester bore N. distant eight miles, and the most -advanced point of land to the S. E. which we judged to be Cape Noir, -bore S. E. by S. distant seven or eight leagues. Latitude observed 54° -13ʹ S. Longitude made from Cape Deseada, 54ʹ E. From Cape Gloucester, -off which lies a small rocky island, the direction of the coast is -nearly S. E.; but to Cape Noir, for which we steered, the course is -S. S. E., distant about ten leagues. - -At three o’clock, we passed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of -considerable height, and the S. W. point of a large island that seemed -to lie detached a league or a league and a half from the main land. The -land of the Cape, when at a distance from it, appeared to be an island -disjoined from the other; but, on a nearer approach, we found it -connected by a low neck of land. At the point of the Cape are two rocks; -the one peaked like a sugar-loaf, the other not so high, and showing a -rounder surface; and S. by E. two leagues from the Cape are two other -rocky islets. This Cape is situated in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ S. -longitude 73° 33ʹ W. - -After passing the two islets, we steered E. S. E. crossing the great bay -of St. Barbara. We but just saw the land in the bottom of it; which -could not be less than seven or eight leagues from us. There was a -space, lying in the direction of E. N. E. from Cape Noir, where no land -was to be seen: this may be the Channel of St. Barbara which opens into -the Straits of Magalhaens, as mentioned by Frezier. We found the Cape to -agree very well with his description; which shows that he laid down the -channel from good memoirs. At ten o’clock, drawing near the S. E. point -of the bay, which lies nearly in the direction of S. 60° E. from Cape -Noir, eighteen leagues distant, we shortened sail, and spent the night -standing off and on. - -At two o’clock in the morning of the 19th, having made sail, we steered -S. E. by E. along the coast, and soon passed the S. E. point of the Bay -of St. Barbara, which I called Cape Desolation; because near it -commenced the most desolate and barren country I ever saw. It is -situated in the latitude of 54° 55ʹ S., longitude 72° 12ʹ W. About four -leagues to the east of this Cape is a deep inlet, at the entrance of -which lies a pretty large island, and some others of less note. Nearly -in this situation some charts place a channel leading into the Straits -of Magalhaens, under the name of Straits of Jelouzel. At ten o’clock, -being about a league and a half from the land, we sounded, and found -sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones and shells. - -The wind, which had been fresh at N. by W. began to abate, and at noon -it fell calm, when we observed in latitude 55° 20ʹ S., longitude made -from Cape Deseada 3° 24ʹ E. In this situation we were about three -leagues from the nearest shore, which was that of an island. This I -named Gilbert Isle, after my master. It is nearly of the same height -with the rest of the coast, and shows a surface composed of several -peaked rocks unequally high. A little to the S. E. of it are some -smaller islands, and, without them, breakers. - -I have before observed that this is the most desolate coast I ever saw. -It seems entirely composed of rocky mountains without the least -appearance of vegetation. These mountains terminate in horrible -precipices, whose craggy summits spire up to a vast height; so that -hardly any thing in nature can appear with a more barren and savage -aspect than the whole of this country. The inland mountains were covered -with snow, but those on the sea-coast were not. We judged the former to -belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and the latter to be islands, so -ranged as apparently to form a coast. - -After three hours’ calm, we got a breeze at S. E. by E. and having made -a short trip to south, stood in for the land; the most advanced point of -which, that we had in sight, bore E., distant ten leagues. This is a -lofty promontory, lying E. S. E. nineteen leagues from Gilbert Isle, and -situated in latitude 55° 26ʹ S. longitude 70° 25ʹ W. Viewed from the -situation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers; and within -them a hill shaped like a sugar-loaf. This wild rock therefore obtained -the name of York Minster. Two leagues to the westward of this head -appeared a large inlet, the west point of which we fetched in with, by -nine o’clock, when we tacked in forty-one fathoms water, half a league -from the shore: to the westward of this inlet was another, with several -islands lying in the entrance. - -During the night between the 19th and 20th, we had little wind easterly, -which in the morning veered to N. E. and N. N. E., but it was too faint -to be of use; and at ten, we had a calm, when we observed the ship to -drive from off the shore out to sea. We had made the same observation -the day before. This must have been occasioned by a current; and the -melting of the snow increasing, the inland waters will cause a stream to -run out of most of these inlets. At noon, we observed in latitude 55° -39ʹ 30ʺ S. York Minster, then bearing N. 15° E., distant five leagues; -and Round-hill, just peeping above the horizon, which we judged to -belong to the isles of Saint Ildefonso, E. 25° S., ten or eleven leagues -distant. At ten o’clock, a breeze springing up at E. by S., I took this -opportunity to stand in for the land, being desirous of going into one -of the many ports which seemed open to receive us, in order to take a -view of the country, and to recruit our stock of wood and water. - -In standing in for an opening, which appeared on the east side of York -Minster, we had forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms water, a -bottom of small stones and shells. When we had the last soundings we -were nearly in the middle between the two points that form the entrance -to the inlet, which we observed to branch into two arms, both of them -lying in nearly N., and disjoined by a high rocky point. We stood for -the eastern branch as being clear of islets; and after passing a black -rocky one, lying without the point just mentioned, we sounded and found -no bottom with a line of an hundred and seventy fathoms. This was -altogether unexpected, and a circumstance that would not have been -regarded, if the breeze had continued; but, at this time, it fell calm, -so that it was not possible to extricate ourselves from this -disagreeable situation. Two boats were hoisted out, and sent a-head to -tow; but they would have availed little, had not a breeze sprung up -about eight o’clock, at S. W. which put it in my power either to stand -out to sea, or up the inlet. Prudence seemed to point out the former; -but the desire of finding a good port, and of learning something of the -country, getting the better of every other consideration, I resolved to -stand in; and as night was approaching, our safety depended on getting -to an anchor. With this view we continued to sound, but always had an -unfathomable depth. - -Hauling up under the east side of the land which divided the two arms, -and seeing a small cove a-head, I sent a boat to sound; and we kept as -near the shore as the flurries from the land would permit, in order to -be able to get into this place, if there should be anchorage. The boat -soon returned, and informed us that there was thirty and twenty-five -fathoms water, a full cable’s length from the shore. Here we anchored in -thirty fathoms, the bottom sand and broken shells; and carried out a -kedge and hawser, to steady the ship for the night. - - - - - CHAP. II. - -TRANSACTIONS IN CHRISTMAS SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS - INHABITANTS. - - -The morning of the 21st was calm and pleasant. After breakfast, I set -out with two boats to look for a more secure station. We no sooner got -round, or above the point, under which the ship lay, than we found a -cove in which was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, the -bottom stones and sand. At the head of the cove was a stony beach, a -valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water; so that there was -every thing we could expect to find in such a place, or rather more; for -we shot three geese out of four that we saw, and caught some young ones, -which we afterwards let go. - -After discovering and sounding this cove, I sent lieutenant Clerke, who -commanded the other boat, on board, with orders to remove the ship into -this place, while I proceeded farther up the inlet. I presently saw that -the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned -before, was an island, at the north end of which the two channels -united. After this I hastened on board, and found every thing in -readiness to weigh; which was accordingly done, and all the boats sent -a-head to tow the ship round the point. But, at that moment, a light -breeze came in from the sea too scant to fill our sails; so that we were -obliged to drop the anchor again, for fear of falling upon the point, -and to carry out a kedge to windward. That being done, we hove up the -anchor, warped up to, and weighed the kedge, and proceeding round the -point under our stay-sails, there anchored with the best bower, in -twenty fathoms; and moored with the other bower, which lay to the north, -in thirteen fathoms. In this position we were shut in from the sea by -the point above mentioned, which was in one with the extremity of the -inlet to the east. Some islets, off the next point above us, covered us -from the N. W., from which quarter the wind had the greatest fetch; and -our distance from the shore was about one-third of a mile. - -Thus situated, we went to work, to clear a place to fill water, to cut -wood, and to set up a tent for the reception of a guard, which was -thought necessary; as we had already discovered, that, barren as this -country is, it was not without people, though we had not yet seen any. -Mr. Wales also got his observatory and instruments on shore; but it was -with the greatest difficulty he could find a place of sufficient -stability, and clear of the mountains, which every where surrounded us, -to set them up in; and at last he was obliged to content himself with -the top of a rock, not more than nine feet over. - -Next day I sent lieutenants Clerke and Pickersgill, accompanied by some -of the other officers, to examine and draw a sketch of the channel on -the other side of the island; and I went myself in another boat, -accompanied by the botanists, to survey the northern parts of the sound. -In my way, I landed on the point of a low isle covered with herbage, -part of which had been lately burnt; we likewise saw a hut; signs -sufficient that people were in the neighbourhood. After I had taken the -necessary bearings, we proceeded round the east end of Burnt Island, and -over to what we judged to be the main of Terra del Fuego, where we found -a very fine harbour encompassed by steep rocks of vast height, down -which ran many limpid streams of water; and at the foot of the rocks, -some tufts of trees, fit for little else but fuel. - -This harbour, which I shall distinguish by the name of the Devil’s -Bason, is divided, as it were, into two, an inner and an outer one; and -the communication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. -In the outer bason, I found thirteen and seventeen fathoms water, and in -the inner, seventeen and twenty-three. This last is as secure a place as -can be, but nothing can be more gloomy. The vast height of the savage -rocks which encompass it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, -of the meridian sun. The outer harbour is not quite free from this -inconvenience, but far more so than the other; it is also rather more -commodious, and equally safe. It lies in the direction of north, a mile -and an half distant from the east end of Burnt Island. I likewise found -a good anchoring-place a little to the west of this harbour, before a -stream of water that comes out of a lake or large reservoir, which is -continually supplied by a cascade falling into it. - -Leaving this place, we proceeded along the shore to the westward, and -found other harbours, which I had not time to look into. In all of them -is fresh water, and wood for fuel; but except these little tufts of -bushes, the whole country is a barren rock, doomed by nature to -everlasting sterility. The low islands, and even some of the higher, -which lie scattered up and down the sound, are indeed mostly covered -with shrubs and herbage, the soil a black rotten turf, evidently -composed, by length of time, of decayed vegetables. - -I had an opportunity to verify what we had observed at sea; that the -sea-coast is composed of a number of large and small islands, and that -the numerous inlets are formed by the junction of several channels; at -least so it is here. On one of these low islands, we found several huts, -which had lately been inhabited; and near them was a good deal of -celery, with which we loaded our boat, and returned on board at seven -o’clock in the evening. In this expedition we met with little game; one -duck, three or four shags, and about that number of rails or sea-pies, -being all we got. The other boat returned on board some hours before; -having found two harbours on the west side of the other channel; the one -large, and the other small; but both of them safe and commodious; -though, by the sketch Mr. Pickersgill had taken of them, the access to -both appeared rather intricate. - -I was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of our -marines. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o’clock the -preceding night. It was supposed that he had fallen over-board out of -the head, where he had been last seen, and was drowned. - -Having fine pleasant weather on the 23d, I sent lieutenant Pickersgill -in the cutter, to explore the east side of the sound, and went myself in -the pinnace to the west side, with an intent to go round the island, -under which we were at anchor, (and which I shall distinguish by the -name of Shag island), in order to view the passage leading to the -harbours Mr. Pickersgill had discovered the day before, on which I made -the following observations. In coming from sea, leave all the rocks and -islands, lying off and within York Minster, on your larboard side; and -the black rock, which lies off the south end of Shag island, on your -starboard; and when abreast of the south end of that island, haul over -for the west shore, taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will see -before you, as they always grow on rocks; some of which I have found -twelve fathoms under water; but it is always best to keep clear of them. -The entrance to the large harbour, or Port Clerke, is just to the north -of some low rocks lying off a point on Shag Island. This harbour lies in -W. by S. a mile and an half, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four -fathoms depth, wood and fresh water. About a mile without, or to the -southward of Port Clerke, is, or seemed to be, another which I did not -examine. It is formed by a large island, which covers it from the south -and east winds. Without this island, that is, between it and York -Minster, the sea seemed strewed with islets, rocks, and breakers. In -proceeding round the south end of Shag Island, we observed the shags to -breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rocks. Some of the old ones -we shot, but could not come at the young ones, which are, by far, the -best eating. On the east side of the island we saw some geese; and -having with difficulty landed, we killed three, which at this time was a -valuable acquisition. - -About seven in the evening we got on board, where Mr. Pickersgill had -arrived but just before. He informed me that the land opposite to our -station was an island, which he had been round; that, on another, more -to the north, he found many _terns’_ eggs, and that without the great -island, between it and the east head, lay a cove in which were many -geese; one only of which he got, besides some young goslins. - -This information of Mr. Pickersgill induced me to make up two shooting -parties next day; Mr. Pickersgill and his associates going in the -cutter, and myself and the botanists in the pinnace. Mr. Pickersgill -went by the N. E. side of the large island above mentioned, which -obtained the name of Goose Island; and I went by the S. W. side. As soon -as we got under the island, we found plenty of shags in the cliffs, but, -without staying to spend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on, -and presently found sport enough; for, in the south of the island, were -abundance of geese. It happened to be the moulting season; and most of -them were on shore for that purpose, and could not fly. There being a -great surf, we found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing -over the rocks when we were landed; so that hundreds of the geese -escaped us, some into the sea, and others up into the island. We, -however, by one means or other, got sixty-two; with which we returned on -board, all heartily tired; but the acquisition we had made overbalanced -every other consideration, and we sat down with a good appetite to -supper, on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr. Pickersgill -and his associates had got on board some time before us with fourteen -geese; so that I was able to make distribution to the whole crew, which -was the more acceptable, on account of the approaching festival; for, -had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer -must have been salt beef and pork. - -I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, had been -along-side the ship; and some on board. Little address was required to -persuade them to either; for they seemed to be well enough acquainted -with Europeans, and had, amongst them, some of their knives. - -The next morning, the 25th, they made us another visit. I found them to -be of the same nation I had formerly seen in Success-Bay; and the same -which M. de Bougainville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras; a word -which these had, on every occasion, in their mouths. They are a little, -ugly, half-starved, beardless race. I saw not a tall person amongst -them. They were almost naked; their clothing was a seal-skin; some had -two or three sewed together, so as to make a cloak which reached to the -knees; but the most of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to -cover their shoulders; and all their lower parts were quite naked. The -women, I was told, cover their nakedness with a flap of a seal-skin, but -in other respects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the -children, remained in the canoes. I saw two young children at the breast -entirely naked; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and -hardships. They had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather -harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. I suppose they were -intended to kill seals and fish; they may also kill whales with them, as -the Esquimaux do. I know not if they resemble them in their love of -train-oil; but they, and every thing they had, smelt most intolerably of -it. I ordered them some biscuit, but did not observe them so fond of it -as I had been told. They were much better pleased when I gave them some -medals, knives, &c. - -The women and children, as before observed, remained in the canoes. -These were made of bark; and in each was a fire, over which the poor -creatures huddled themselves. I cannot suppose that they carry a fire in -their canoes for this purpose only; but rather that it may be always -ready to remove ashore wherever they land; for let their method of -obtaining fire be what it may, they cannot be always sure of finding dry -fuel that will kindle from a spark. They likewise carry in their canoes -large seal hides, which, I judged, were to shelter them when at sea, and -to serve as covering to their huts on shore; and occasionally to be used -for sails. - -They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of our -Christmas cheer. Indeed I believe no one invited them, and for good -reasons; for their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about -them, were enough to spoil the appetite of any European; and that would -have been a real disappointment, as we had not experienced such fare for -some time. Roast and boiled geese, goose-pye, &c. was a treat little -known to us; and we had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only -article of our provision that was mended by keeping. So that our friends -in England, did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than -we did. - -On the 26th, little wind, next to a calm, and fair weather, except in -the morning, when we had some showers of rain. In the evening, when it -was cold, the natives made us another visit; and it being distressing to -see them stand trembling and naked on the deck, I could do no less than -to give them some baize and old canvass to cover themselves. - -Having already completed our water, on the 27th I ordered the wood, -tent, and observatory to be got on board; and, as this was work for the -day, a party of us went in two boats to shoot geese, the weather being -fine and pleasant. We proceeded round by the south side of Goose Island, -and picked up in all thirty-one. On the east side of the island, to the -north of the east point, is good anchorage, in seventeen fathoms water, -where it is entirely land-locked. This is a good place for ships to lie -in that are bound to the west. On the north side of this isle, I -observed three fine coves, in which were both wood and water; but it -being near night, I had no time to sound them; though I doubt not, there -is anchorage. The way to come at them is by the west end of the island. - -When I returned on board, I found every thing got off the shore, and the -launch in; so that we now only waited for a wind to put to sea. The -festival, which we celebrated at this place, occasioned my giving it the -name of Christmas Sound. The entrance, which is three leagues wide, is -situated in the latitude of 55° 27ʹ S., longitude 70° 16ʹ W.; and in the -direction of N. 37° W. from St. Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. -These isles are the best landmark for finding the sound. York Minster, -which is the only remarkable land about it, will hardly be known by a -stranger from any description that can be given of it, because it alters -its appearance according to the different situations it is viewed from. -Besides the black rock, which lies off the end of Shag Island, there is -another about midway between this and the east shore. A copious -description of this sound is unnecessary, as few would be benefited by -it. The sketch which accompanies this journal will be a sufficient guide -for such ships as chance may bring hither. Anchorage, tufts of wood, and -fresh water, will be found in all the coves and harbours. I would advise -no one to anchor very near the shore for the sake of having a moderate -depth of water; because there I generally found a rocky bottom. - -The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they consist chiefly -of wild fowl, and may probably never be found in such plenty as to -supply the crew of a ship; and fish, so far as we can judge, are scarce. -Indeed the plenty of wild fowl made us pay less attention to fishing. -Here are, however, plenty of muscles, not very large, but well tasted; -and very good celery is to be met with on several of the low islets, and -where the natives have their habitations. The wild-fowl are geese, -ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull so often mentioned in this -journal under the name of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, -called by our people race-horses, on account of the great swiftness with -which they run on the water; for they cannot fly, the wings being too -short to support the body in the air. This bird is at the Falkland -Islands, as appears by Pernety’s journal.[15] The geese too are there, -and seem to be very well described under the name of bustards. They are -much smaller than our English tame geese, but eat as well as any I ever -tasted. They have short black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all -white; the female is spotted black and white, or grey with a large white -spot on each wing. Besides the bird above mentioned, here are several -other aquatic, and some land ones; but of the latter not many. - -From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans, we -may suppose that they do not live here continually, but retire to the -north during the winter. I have often wondered that these people do not -clothe themselves better, since nature has certainly provided materials. -They might line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of -aquatic birds; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same -skins for other parts of clothing; for I cannot suppose they are scarce -with them. They were ready enough to part with those they had to our -people; which they hardly would have done, had they not known where to -have got more. In short, of all the nations I have seen, the Pecheras -are the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most -inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to -provide themselves with such conveniences as may render life in some -measure more comfortable. - -Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, -and gave sufficient employment to Mr. Forster and his party. The tree -which produceth the Winter’s bark, is found here in the woods, as is the -holly-leaved barberry, and some other sorts which I know not, but I -believe are common in the Straits of Magalhaens. We found plenty of a -berry which we called the cranberry, because they are nearly of the same -colour, size, and shape. It grows on a bushy plant, has a bitterish -taste, rather insipid; but may be eaten either raw or in tarts, and is -used as food by the natives. - - - - - CHAP. III. - - RANGE FROM CHRISTMAS SOUND, ROUND CAPE HORN, THROUGH STRAIT LE MAIRE, -AND ROUND STATEN LAND; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF A HARBOUR IN - THAT ISLAND, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS. - - -At four o’clock in the morning on the 28th, we began to unmoor; and at -eight weighed and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at N. W. which -afterwards freshened, and was attended with rain. At noon, the east -point of the sound (Point Nativity), bore N. 1/2 W.; distant one and a -half leagues, and St. Ildefonso Isles S. E. 1/2 S., distant seven -leagues. The coast seemed to trend in the direction of E. by S., but the -weather being very hazy, nothing appeared distinct. - -We continued to steer S. E. by E. and E. S. E., with a fresh breeze at -W. N. W., till four o’clock P. M., when we hauled to the South, in order -to have a nearer view of St. Ildefonso Isles. At this time we were -abreast of an inlet, which lies E. S. E. about seven leagues from the -sound; but it must be observed that there are some isles without this -distinction. At the west point of the inlet, are two high peaked hills; -and below them, to the E. two round hills, or isles, which lie in the -direction of N. E. and S. W. of each other. An island, or what appeared -to be an island, lay in the entrance; and another but smaller inlet -appeared to the west of this; indeed, the coast appeared indented and -broken as usual. - -At half-past five o’clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good sight -of Ildefonso Isles. They are a group of islands and rocks above water, -situated above six leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 55° 53ʹ -S., longitude 69° 41ʹ W. - -We now resumed our course to the east; and, at sun-set, the most -advanced land bore S. E. by E. 3/4 E.; and a point, which I judged to be -the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by the Dutch fleet under the -command of Admiral Hermite in 1624, bore N. 80° E., six leagues distant. -In some charts, this point is called false Cape Horn, as being the -southern point of Terra del Fuego. It is situated in latitude 55° 39ʹ S. -From the inlet above-mentioned to this false cape, the direction of the -coast is nearly E., half a point S., distant fourteen or fifteen -leagues. - -At ten o’clock, having shortened sail, we spent the night in making -short boards under the top-sails, and at three next morning, made sail, -and steered S. E. by S. with a fresh breeze at W. S. W., the weather -somewhat hazy. At this time, the west entrance to Nassau Bay extended -from N. by E. to N. 1/2 E., and the south side of Hermite’s Isles, E. by -S. At four, _Cape Horn_, for which we now steered, bore E. by S. It is -known, at a distance, by a high round hill over it. A point to the -W. N. W. shows a surface not unlike this; but their situations alone -will always distinguish the one from the other. - -At half past seven, we passed this famous _cape_, and entered the -Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the very same point of land I took for -the cape, when I passed it in 1769, which at that time I was doubtful -of. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands of unequal -extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Hermite Islands, -and is situated in the latitude of 55° 58ʹ, and in the longitude of 68° -13ʹ west, according to the observations made of it in 1769. But the -observations, which we had in Christmas Sound, and reduced to the cape, -by the watch, and others, which we had afterwards, and reduced back to -it by the same means, place it in 67° 19ʹ. It is most probable that a -mean between the two, viz. 67° 46ʹ will be nearest the truth. On the -N. W. side of the cape are two peaked rocks like sugar loaves. They lie -N. W. by N. and S. E. by S., by compass, of each other. Some other -straggling low rocks lie west of the cape, and one south of it; but they -are all near the shore. From Christmas Sound to Cape Horn, the course is -E. S. E. 1/4 E. distant thirty-one leagues. In the direction of -E. N. E., three leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky point, which I called -Mistaken Cape, and is the southern point of the easternmost of Hermite -Isles. Between these two capes there seemed to be a passage directly -into Nassau Bay; some small isles were seen in the passage; and the -coast, on the west side, had the appearance of forming good bays or -harbours. In some charts, Cape Horn is laid down as belonging to a small -island. This was neither confirmed, nor can it be contradicted by us; -for several breakers appeared in the coast, both to the east and west of -it; and the hazy weather rendered every object indistinct. The summits -of some of the hills were rocky, but the sides and valleys seemed -covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts. - -From Cape Horn we steered E. by N. 1/2 N. which direction carried us -without the rocks that lie off Mistaken Cape. These rocks are white with -the dung of fowls; and vast numbers were seen about them. After passing -them, we steered N. E. 1/2 E. and N. E. for Strait Le Maire, with a view -of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the -Adventure having been there. At eight o’clock in the evening, drawing -near the strait, we shortened sail, and hauled the wind. At this time -the Sugar-loaf on Terra del Fuego bore N. 33° W.; the point of Success -Bay, just open of the cape of the same name, bearing N. 20° E.; and -Staten Land, extending from N. 53° E. to 67° E. Soon after, the wind -died away, and we had light airs and calms by turns till near noon the -next day; during which time we were driven by the current over to Staten -Land. - -The calm being succeeded by a light breeze at N. N. W. we stood over for -Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before -this, we had hoisted our colours, and fired two guns; and soon after, -saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point of the bay; -which I judged was made by the natives, as it was at the place where -they resided when I was here in 1769. As soon as we got off the bay, I -sent lieutenant Pickersgill to see if any traces remained of the -Adventure having been there lately; and in the mean time we stood on and -off with the ship. At two o’clock, the current turned and set to the -south; and Mr. Pickersgill informed me when he returned, that it was -falling water on shore; which was contrary to what I had observed when I -was here before; for I thought then that the flood came from the north. -Mr. Pickersgill saw not the least signs of any ship having been there -lately. I had inscribed our ship’s name on a card, which he nailed to a -tree at the place where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view -of giving Captain Furneaux some information, in case he should be behind -us and put in here. - -On Mr. Pickersgill’s landing, he was courteously received by several of -the natives, who were cloathed in guanicoe and seal skins, and had on -their arms bracelets, made of silver wire, and wrought not unlike the -hilt of a sword, being no doubt the manufacture of some Europeans. They -were the same kind of people we had seen in Christmas Sound; and, like -them, repeated the word Pechera on every occasion. One man spoke much to -Mr. Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and then to the bay, as if -he wanted her to come in. Mr. Pickersgill said the bay was full of -whales and seals; and we had observed the same in the strait, especially -on the Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, in particular, are -exceedingly numerous. - -As soon as the boat was hoisted in, which was not till near six o’clock, -we made sail to the east, with a fine breeze at north. For since we had -explored the south coast of Terra del Fuego, I resolved to do the same -by Staten Land; which I believed to have been as little known as the -former. At nine o’clock the wind freshening, and veering to N. W. we -tacked, and stood to S. W. in order to spend the night; which proved -none of the best, being stormy and hazy, with rain. - -Next morning, at three o’clock, we bore up for the east end of Staten -Land, which, at half past four, bore S. 60° E. the west end S. 2° E. and -the land of Terra del Fuego S. 40° W. Soon after I had taken these -bearings, the land was again obscured in a thick haze, and we were -obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark; for it was but now and -then we got a sight of the coast. As we advanced to the east, we -perceived several islands, of unequal extent, lying off the land. There -seemed to be a clear passage between the easternmost and the one next to -it, to the west. I would gladly have gone through this passage, and -anchored under one of the islands, to have waited for better weather; -for on sounding we found only twenty-nine fathoms water; but when I -considered that this was running to leeward in the dark, I chose to keep -without the islands, and accordingly hauled off to the north. At eight -o’clock we were abreast of the most eastern isle, distant from it about -two miles, and had the same depth of water as before. I now shortened -sail to the three top-sails, to wait for clear weather; for the fog was -so thick, that we could see no other land than this island. After -waiting an hour, and the weather not clearing up, we bore, and hauled -round the east end of the island, for the sake of smooth water and -anchorage, if it should be necessary. In hauling round, we found a -strong race of a current, like unto broken water; but we had no less -than nineteen fathoms. We also saw on the island abundance of seals and -birds. This was a temptation too great for people in our situation to -withstand, to whom fresh provisions of any kind were acceptable; and -determined me to anchor, in order that we might taste of what we now -only saw at a distance. At length, after making a few boards, fishing, -as it were, for the best ground, we anchored in twenty-one fathoms -water, a stony bottom, about a mile from the island, which extended from -N. 18° E. to N. 55° 1/2 W.; and soon after, the weather clearing up, we -saw Cape St. John, or the east end of Staten Land, bearing S. 75° E., -distant four leagues. We were sheltered from the south wind by Staten -Land, and from the north wind by the island; the other isles lay to the -west, and secured us from that wind; but beside being open to the N. E. -and E. we also lay exposed to the N. N. W. winds. This might have been -avoided by anchoring more to the west; but I made choice of my situation -for two reasons: first, to be near the island we intended to land upon; -and secondly, to be able to get to sea with any wind. - -[Illustration: _Christmas Sound, Terra del Fuego._] - -After dinner we hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party -of men; some to kill seals; others to catch or kill birds, fish, or what -came in our way. To find of the former, it mattered not where we landed; -for the whole shore was covered with them; and, by the noise they made, -one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On -landing, we found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape -and motion exactly resembling them. We called them lions, on account of -the great resemblance the male has to that beast. Here were also the -same kind of seals which we found in New Zealand, generally known by the -name of sea-bears; at least, we gave them that name. They were, in -general, so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer us to come near enough -to knock them down with sticks; but the large ones we shot, not thinking -it safe to approach them. We also found on the island abundance of -penguins and shags; and the latter had young ones almost fledged, and -just to our taste. Here were geese and ducks, but not many; birds of -prey, and a few small birds. In the evening we returned on board, our -boats well laden with one thing or other. - -Next day being January the 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was wanting -but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh -at, whom chance or design might bring hither, I sent Mr. Gilbert over to -Staten Land in the cutter, to look for one. Appearances promised -success, in a place opposite the ship. I sent also two other boats for -the lions, &c. we had killed the preceding day; and soon after, I went -myself, and observed the sun’s meridian altitude at the N. E. end of the -island, which gave the latitude 54° 40ʹ 5ʺ south. After shooting a few -geese, some other birds, and plentifully supplying ourselves with young -shags, we returned on board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The -old lions and bears were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, -or fat, to make oil of; for, except their harslets, which were -tolerable, the flesh was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. -But the young cubs were very palatable; and even the flesh of some of -the old lionesses was not much amiss; but that of the old males was -abominable. In the afternoon, I sent some people on shore to skin and -cut off the fat of those which yet remained dead on shore; for we had -already more carcasses on board than necessary; and I went myself, in -another boat, to collect birds. About ten o’clock Mr. Gilbert returned -from Staten Land, where he found a good port, situated three leagues to -the westward of Cape St. John, and in the direction of north, a little -easterly, from the N. E. end of the eastern island. It may be known by -some small islands lying in the entrance. The channel, which is on the -east side of these islands, is half a mile broad. The course in is S. W. -by S. turning gradually to W. by S. and west. The harbour lies nearly in -this last direction; is almost two miles in length; in some places near -a mile broad; and hath in it from fifty to ten fathoms water, a bottom -of mud and sand. Its shores are covered with wood fit for fuel; and in -it are several streams of fresh water. On the islands were sea-lions, -&c. and such an innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken the air when -disturbed, and almost to suffocate our people with their dung. This they -seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than asafœtida, -or as it is commonly called, devil’s dung. Our people also saw several -geese, ducks, and race-horses, which is also a kind of duck. The day on -which this port was discovered, occasioned my calling it New Year’s -Harbour. It would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or -round Cape Horn, if its situation would permit them, to put to sea with -an easterly and northerly wind. This inconvenience, however, is of -little consequence, since these winds are never known to be of long -duration. The southerly and westerly are the prevailing winds; so that a -ship can never be detained long in this port. - -As we could not sail in the morning of the 2d, for want of wind, I sent -a party of men on shore to the island, on the same duty as before. -Towards noon we got a fresh breeze at west; but it came too late, and I -resolved to wait till the next morning, when, at four o’clock, we -weighed with a fresh gale at N. W. by W. and stood for Cape St. John, -which, at half-past six, bore N. by E. distant four or five miles. This -cape, being the eastern point of Staten Land, a description of it is -unnecessary. It may, however, not be amiss to say, that it is a rock of -considerable height, situated in the latitude of 54° 46ʹ South, -longitude 64° 7ʹ West, with a rocky islet lying close under the north -part of it. To the westward of the cape, about five or six miles, is an -inlet, which seemed to divide the land; that is, to communicate with the -sea to the south; and between this inlet and the cape is a bay; but I -cannot say of what depth. In sailing round the cape, we met with a very -strong current from the south: it made a race which looked like -breakers; and it was as much as we could do, with a strong gale, to make -head against it. - -After getting round the cape, I hauled up along the south coast; and as -soon as we had brought the wind to blow off the land, it came upon us in -such heavy squalls as obliged us to double-reef our topsails. It -afterwards fell, by little and little, and at noon ended in a calm. At -this time Cape St. John bore N. 20° east, distant three and a half -leagues; Cape St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point of Staten Land, S. 83° -west; two high detached rocks N. 80° west; and the place where the land -seemed to be divided, which had the same appearance on this side, bore -N. 15° west, three leagues distant. Latitude observed 54° 56ʹ. In this -situation we sounded, but had no bottom, with a line of one hundred and -twenty fathoms. The calm was of very short duration, a breeze presently -springing up at N. W., but it was too faint to make head against the -current, and we drove with it back to the N. N. E. At four o’clock the -wind veered at once to S. by E. and blew in squalls attended with rain. -Two hours after, the squalls and rain subsided, and the wind returning -back to the west, blew a gentle gale. All this time the current set us -to the north; so that, at eight o’clock, Cape St. John bore W. N. W. -distant about seven leagues. I now gave over plying, and steered S. E. -with a resolution to leave the land; judging it to be sufficiently -explored to answer the most general purposes of navigation and -geography. - - - - - CHAP. IV. - -OBSERVATIONS, GEOGRAPHICAL AND NAUTICAL, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE ISLANDS - NEAR STATEN LAND, AND THE ANIMALS FOUND IN THEM. - - -The annexed chart will very accurately shew the direction, extent, and -position of the coast, along which I have sailed, either in this or my -former voyage; and no more is to be expected from it. The latitudes have -been determined by the sun’s meridian altitude, which we were so -fortunate as to obtain every day, except the one we sailed from -Christmas Sound; which was of no consequence, as its latitude was known -before. The longitudes have been settled by lunar observations, as is -already mentioned. I have taken 67° 46ʹ for the longitude of Cape Horn. -From this meridian, the longitudes of all the other parts are deduced by -the watch; by which the extent of the whole must be determined to a few -miles; and whatever errors there may be in longitude, must be general. -But I think it highly probable, that the longitude is determined to -within a quarter of a degree. Thus the extent of Terra del Fuego from -east to west, and consequently that of the Straits of Magalhaens, will -be found less than most navigators have made it. - -In order to illustrate this, and to show the situations of the -neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the annexed chart of more -general use, I have extended it down to 47° of latitude. But I am only -answerable for the inaccuracy of such parts as I have explored myself. -In laying down the rest, I had recourse to the following authorities. - -The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, which is the most essential point, as -it determines the length of the Straits of Magalhaens, is deduced from -Lord Anson, who made 2° 3ʹ difference of longitude between it and the -Strait Le Maire. Now as the latter lies in 65° 22ʹ, Cape Virgin Mary -must lie in 67° 52ʹ, which is the longitude I have assigned to it, and -which, I have reason to think, cannot be far from the truth. - -The Strait of Magalhaens, and the east coast of Patagonia, are laid down -from the observations made by the late English and French navigators. - -The position of the west coast of America, from Cape Victory northward, -I have taken from the discoveries of _Sarmiento_, a Spanish navigator, -communicated to me by Mr. Stuart, F. R. S. - -Falkland islands are copied from a sketch taken from Captain M’Bride, -who circumnavigated them some years ago in his Majesty’s ship Jason; and -their distance from the main is agreeable to the run of the Dolphin, -under the command of Commodore Byron, from Cape Virgin Mary to Port -Egmont, and from Port Egmont to Port Desire; both of which runs were -made in a few days; consequently no material errors could happen. - -The S. W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets, islands, &c. -may be compared to the coast of Norway; for I doubt, if there be an -extent of three leagues where there is not an inlet or harbour which -will receive and shelter the largest shipping. The worst is, that till -these inlets are better known, one has, as it were, to fish for -anchorage. There are several lurking rocks on the coast; but happily -none of them lie far from land, the approach to which may be known by -sounding, supposing the weather so obscure that you cannot see it. For -to judge of the whole by the parts we have sounded, it is more than -probable that there are soundings all along the coast, and for several -leagues out to sea. Upon the whole, this is by no means the dangerous -coast it has been represented. - -Staten Land lies nearly E. by N. and W. by S. and is ten leagues long in -that direction; and no where above three or four leagues broad. The -coast is rocky, much indented, and seemed to form several bays or -inlets. It shews a surface of craggy hills which spire up to a vast -height, especially near the west end. Except the craggy summits of the -hills, the greatest part was covered with trees and shrubs, or some sort -of herbage, and there was little or no snow on it. The currents between -Cape Deseada and Cape Horn, set from west to east, that is, in the same -direction as the coast; but they are by no means considerable. To the -east of the cape their strength is much increased, and their direction -is N. E. towards Staten Land. They are rapid in Strait Le Maire and -along the south coast of Staten Land, and set like a torrent round Cape -St. John; where they take a N. W. direction, and continue to run very -strong both within and without New Year’s isles. While we lay at anchor -within this island, I observed that the current was strongest during the -flood; and that, on the ebb, its strength was so much impaired, that the -ship would sometimes ride head to wind when it was at west and W. N. W. -This is only to be understood of the place where the ship lay at anchor; -for at the very time we had a strong current setting to the westward, -Mr. Gilbert found one of equal strength near the coast of Staten Land, -setting to the eastward; though probably this was an eddy current or -tide. - -If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the shore at -this place, on the days of the new and full moon, about four o’clock. -The perpendicular rise and fall is very inconsiderable, not exceeding -four feet at most. In Christmas Sound it is high water at half past two -o’clock on the days of the full and change, and Mr. Wales observed it to -rise and fall, on a perpendicular, three feet six inches; but this was -during the neap-tides, consequently the spring-tides must rise higher. -To give such an account of the tides and currents on these coasts as -navigators might depend on, would require a multitude of observations, -and in different places, the making of which would be a work of time. I -confess myself unprovided with materials for such a task; and believe -that the less I say on this subject the fewer mistakes I shall make. But -I think I have been able to observe, that in Strait Le Maire, the -southerly tide or current, be it flood or ebb, begins to act on the days -of new and full moon about four o’clock, which remark may be of use to -ships who pass the strait. - -Were I bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or -water, or any thing that might make it necessary to put into port, I -would not come near the land at all. For by keeping out at sea, you -avoid the currents, which, I am satisfied, lose their force at ten or -twelve leagues from land; and at a greater distance there is none. - -During the time we were upon the coast, we had more calms than storms, -and the winds so variable that I question if a passage might not have -been made from east to west in as short a time as from west to east; nor -did we experience any cold weather. The mercury in the thermometer at -noon was never below 46°; and while we lay in Christmas Sound, it was -generally above temperate. At this place, the variation was 23° 30ʹ -east; a few leagues to the S. W. of Strait Le Maire, it was 24°; and at -anchor, within New Year’s isles, it was 24° 20ʹ east. - -These isles are, in general, so unlike Staten Land, especially the one -on which we landed, that it deserves a particular description. It shews -a surface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty feet above -the sea, from which it is defended by a rocky coast. The inner part of -the isle is covered with a sort of sword-grass, very green, and of a -great length. It grows on little hillocks, of two or three feet in -diameter, and as many or more in height, in large tufts, which seemed to -be composed of the roots of the plant matted together. Among these -hillocks are a vast number of paths made by sea-bears and penguins, by -which they retire into the centre of the isle. It is, nevertheless, -exceedingly bad travelling; for these paths are so dirty that one is -sometimes up to the knees in mire. Besides this plant, there are a few -other grasses, a kind of heath, and some celery. The whole surface is -moist and wet, and on the coast are several small streams of water. The -sword-grass, as I call it, seems to be the same that grows in Falkland -isles, described by Bougainville as a kind of _gladiolus_, or rather a -species of _gramen_,[16] and named by Pernety, corn-flags. - -The animals found on this little spot are sea-lions, sea-bears, a -variety of oceanic and some land birds. The sea-lion is pretty well -described by Pernety; though those we saw here have not such fore-feet -or fins as that he has given a plate of, but such fins as that which he -calls the sea-wolf. Nor did we see any of the size he speaks of; the -largest not being more than twelve or fourteen feet in length, and -perhaps eight or ten in circumference. They are not of that kind -described, under the same name, by Lord Anson; but, for aught I know, -these would more properly deserve that appellation; the long hair with -which the back of the head, the neck and shoulders, are covered, giving -them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. The other part of the -body is covered with a short hair, little longer than that of a cow or a -horse, and the whole is a dark brown. The female is not half so big as -the male, and is covered with a short hair of an ash, or light dun -colour. They live, as it were, in herds, on the rocks, and near the -sea-shore. As this was the time for engendering as well as bringing -forth their young, we have seen a male with twenty or thirty females -about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himself, and -beating off every other male who attempted to come into his flock. -Others again had a less number; some no more than one or two; and here -and there we have seen one lying growling in a retired place, alone, and -suffering neither males nor females to approach him: we judged these -were old and superannuated. - -The sea-bears are not so large, by far, as the lions, but rather larger -than a common seal. They have none of that long hair which distinguishes -the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and finer than that of the -lion, something like an otter’s; and the general colour is that of -iron-grey. This is the kind which the French call sea-wolfs, and the -English seals; they are, however, different from the seals we have in -Europe and in North America. The lions may too, without any great -impropriety, be called overgrown seals; for they are all of the same -species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them; for they either -fled or lay still. The only danger was in going between them and the -sea; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in such -numbers, that, if you could not get out of their way, you would be run -over. Sometimes, when we came suddenly upon them, or waked them out of -their sleep (for they are a sluggish sleepy animal), they would raise up -their heads, snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to -devour us; but as we advanced upon them, they always run away; so that -they are downright bullies. - -The penguin is an amphibious bird, so well known to most people, that I -shall only observe, they are here in prodigious numbers; so that we -could knock down as many as we pleased with a stick. I cannot say they -are good eating. I have indeed made several good meals of them; but it -was for want of better victuals. They either do not breed here, or else -this was not the season; for we saw neither eggs nor young ones. - -Shags breed here in vast numbers; and we carried on board not a few, as -they are very good eating. They take certain spots to themselves, and -build their nests near the edge of the cliffs on little hillocks, which -are either those of the sword-grass, or else they are made by the shags -building on them from year to year. There is another sort rather smaller -than these, which breed on the cliffs of rocks. - -The geese are of the same sort we found in Christmas Sound; we saw but -few; and some had young ones. Mr. Forster shot one which was different -from these, being larger, with a grey plumage, and black feet. The -others make a noise exactly like a duck. Here were ducks, but not many; -and several of that sort which we called race-horses. We shot some, and -found them to weigh twenty-nine or thirty pounds; those who ate of them -said they were very good. - -The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown -bird of the size of an albatross, which Pernety calls quebrantahuessas. -We called them Mother Cary’s geese, and found them pretty good eating. -The land-birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what our -seamen called turkey buzzards, thrushes, and a few other small birds. - -Our naturalists found two new species of birds. The one is about the -size of a pigeon, the plumage as white as milk. They feed along shore, -probably on shell-fish and carrion; for they have a very disagreeable -smell. When we first saw these birds, we thought they were the -snow-peterel, but the moment they were in our possession, the mistake -was discovered; for they resemble them in nothing but size and colour. -These are not web-footed. The other sort is a species of curlews nearly -as big as a heron. It has a variegated plumage, the principal colours -whereof are light grey, and a long crooked bill. - -I had almost forgot to mention that there are sea-pies, or what we -called, when in New Zealand, curlews; but we only saw a few straggling -pairs. It may not be amiss to observe, that the shags are the same bird -which Bougainville calls saw-bills; but he is mistaken in saying that -the quebrantahuessas are their enemies; for this bird is of the peterel -tribe, feeds wholly on fish, and is to be found in all the high southern -latitudes. - -It is amazing to see how the different animals, which inhabit this -little spot, are mutually reconciled. They seem to have entered into a -league not to disturb each other’s tranquillity. The sea-lions occupy -most of the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; -the shags have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their -quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; -and the other birds chuse more retired places. We have seen all these -animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, -without one attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have often observed -the eagles and vultures sitting on the hillocks among the shags, without -the latter, either young or old, being disturbed at their presence. It -may be asked how these birds of prey live? I suppose, on the carcasses -of seals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not few, as -they are so numerous. - -This very imperfect account is written more with a view to assist my own -memory, than to give information to others. I am neither a botanist nor -a naturalist; and have not words to describe the productions of nature, -either in the one branch of knowledge or the other. - - - - - CHAP. V. - - PROCEEDINGS AFTER LEAVING STATEN ISLAND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE - DISCOVERY OF THE ISLE OF GEORGIA, AND A DESCRIPTION OF IT. - - -Having left the land in the evening of the 3d, as before mentioned, we -saw it again next morning, at three o’clock, bearing W. Wind continued -to blow a steady fresh breeze till six P. M. when it shifted in a heavy -squall to S. W. which came so suddenly upon us, that we had not time to -take in the sails, and was the occasion of carrying away a top-gallant -mast, a studding-sail boom, and a fore studding-sail. The squall ended -in a heavy shower of rain, but the wind remained at S. W. Our course was -S. E. with a view of discovering that extensive coast, laid down by Mr. -Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the Gulph of St. Sebastian. I -designed to make the western point of that gulph, in order to have all -the other parts before me. Indeed, I had some doubt of the existence of -such a coast; and this appeared to me the best route for clearing it up, -and for exploring the southern part of this ocean. - -On the 5th, fresh gales, and wet and cloudy weather. At noon observed in -57° 9ʹ, longitude made from Cape Saint John, 5° 2ʹ E. At six o’clock, -P. M. being in the latitude 57° 21ʹ, and in longitude 57° 45ʹ W., the -variation was 21° 28ʹ E. - -At eight o’clock in the evening of the 6th, being then in the latitude -of 58° 9ʹ S. longitude 53° 14ʹ W., we close-reefed our top-sails, and -hauled to the north, with a very strong gale at W., attended with a -thick haze and sleet. The situation just mentioned is nearly the same -that Mr. Dalrymple assigns for the S. W. point of the Gulph of St. -Sebastian. But as we saw neither land, nor signs of land, I was the more -doubtful of its existence, and was fearful, that by keeping to the south -I might miss the land said to be discovered by La Roche in 1675, and by -the ship Lion in 1756, which Mr. Dalrymple places in 54° 30ʹ latitude, -and 45° of longitude; but on looking over Danville’s Chart, I found it -laid down 9° or 10° more to the west; this difference of situation being -to me a sign of the uncertainty of both accounts, determined me to get -into the parallel as soon as possible, and was the reason of my hauling -to the north at this time. - -Towards the morning of the 7th, the gale abated, the weather cleared up, -and the wind veered to the W. S. W. where it continued till midnight; -after which it veered to N. W. Being at this time in the latitude of 56° -4ʹ S. longitude 53° 36ʹ W., we sounded, but found no bottom with a line -of one hundred and thirty fathoms. I still kept the wind on the -larboard-tack, having a gentle breeze and pleasant weather. On the 8th, -at noon, a bed of sea-weed passed the ship. In the afternoon, in the -latitude of 55° 4ʹ, longitude 51° 45ʹ W., the variation was 20° 4ʹ E. - -On the 9th, wind at N. E. attended with thick hazy weather; saw a seal, -and a piece of sea-weed. At noon, latitude 55° 12ʹ S. longitude 50° 15ʹ -W., the wind and weather continuing the same till towards midnight, when -the latter cleared up, and the former veered to west, and blew a gentle -gale. We continued to ply till two o’clock the next morning, when we -bore away E., and at eight, E. N. E.; at noon, observed in latitude 54° -35ʹ S., longitude 47° 56ʹ W., a great many albatrosses and blue peterels -about the ship. I now steered E., and the next morning, in the latitude -of 54° 38ʹ, longitude 45° 10ʹ W., the variation was 19° 25ʹ E. In the -afternoon saw several penguins, and some pieces of weed. - -Having spent the night lying to, on the 12th, at day-break, we bore -away, and steered east northerly, with a fine fresh breeze at W. S. W.; -at noon observed in latitude 54° 28ʹ S., longitude in 42° 8ʹ W.; that -is, near 3° E. of the situation in which Mr. Dalrymple places the N. E. -point of the Gulph of St. Sebastian; but we had no other signs of land -than seeing a seal and a few penguins; on the contrary we had a swell -from E. S. E. which would hardly have been, if any extensive track of -land lay in that direction. In the evening the gale abated, and at -midnight it fell calm. - -The calm, attended by a thick fog, continued till six next morning, when -we got a wind at E., but the fog still prevailed. We stood to the S. -till noon, when, being in the latitude of 55° 7ʹ, we tacked and -stretched to the N. with a fresh breeze at E. by S. and E. S. E. cloudy -weather; saw several penguins and a snow-peterel, which we looked on to -be signs of the vicinity of ice. The air too was much colder than we had -felt it since we left New Zealand. In the afternoon the wind veered to -S. E. and in the night to S. S. E. and blew fresh; with which we stood -to the N. E. - -At nine o’clock the next morning we saw an island of ice as we then -thought; but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. At this -time it bore E. 3/4 S., distant thirteen leagues; our latitude was 53° -56-1/2ʹ, longitude 39° 24ʹ W.; several penguins, small divers, a -snow-peterel, and a vast number of blue peterels about the ship. We had -but little wind all the morning; and at two P. M. it fell calm. It was -now no longer doubted that it was land, and not ice, which we had in -sight. It was, however, in a manner wholly covered with snow. We were -farther confirmed in our judgment of its being land, by finding -soundings at one hundred and seventy-five fathoms, a muddy bottom. The -land at this time bore E. by S., about twelve leagues distant. At six -o’clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze at N. E., with which we stood -to S. E. At first it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards increased so as -to bring us under double-reefed topsails, and was attended with snow and -sleet. - -We continued to stand to the S. E. till seven in the morning on the -15th, when the wind veering to the S. E. we tacked and stood to the N. A -little before we tacked, we saw the land bearing E. by N. At noon the -mercury in the thermometer was at 35-1/4°. The wind blew in squalls, -attended with snow and sleet, and we had a great sea to encounter. At a -lee-lurch which the ship took, Mr. Wales observed her to lie down 42°. -At half-past four P. M. we took in the top-sails, got down top-gallant -yards, wore the ship, and stood to the S. W. under two courses. At -midnight the storm abated, so that we could carry the top-sails double -reefed. - -At four in the morning of the 16th, we wore and stood to the E., with -the wind at S. S. E., a moderate breeze and fair; at eight o’clock saw -the land extending from E. by N. to N. E. by N.; loosed a reef out of -each top-sail, got top-gallant yards across, and set the sails. At noon -observed in latitude 54° 25-1/2ʹ; longitude 38° 18ʹ W. In this situation -we had one hundred and ten fathoms’ water; and the land extended from N. -1/2 W. to E., eight leagues distant. The northern extreme was the same -that we first discovered, and it proved to be an island which obtained -the name of Willis’s Island, after the person who first saw it. - -At this time we had a great swell from the S., an indication that no -land was near us in that direction; nevertheless, the vast quantity of -snow on that in sight, induced us to think it was extensive, and I chose -to begin with exploring the northern coast. With this view we bore up -for Willis’s Island, all sails set, having a fine gale at S. S. W. As we -advanced to the N., we perceived another isle lying east of Willis’s, -and between it and the main. Seeing there was a clear passage between -the two isles, we steered for it, and at five o’clock, being in the -middle of it, we found it about two miles broad. - -Willis’s Isle is a high rock of no great extent, near to which are some -rocky islets. It is situated in the latitude of 54° S., longitude 38° -23ʹ W. The other isle, which obtained the name of Bird Isle, on account -of the vast number that were upon it, is not so high, but of greater -extent, and is close to the N. E. point of the main land, which I called -Cape North. - -The S. E. coast of this land, as far as we saw it, lies in the direction -of S. 50° E., and N. 50° W. It seemed to form several bays or inlets; -and we observed huge masses of snow, or ice, in the bottoms of them, -especially in one which lies ten miles to the S. S. E. of Bird Isle. - -After getting through the passage, we found the north coast trended E. -by N. for about nine miles; and then E. and E. southerly to Cape Buller, -which is eleven miles more. We ranged the coast, at one league distance, -till near ten o’clock, when we brought to for the night, and, on -sounding, found fifty fathoms, a muddy bottom. - -At two o’clock in the morning of the 17th, we made sail in for the land, -with a fine breeze at S. W.; at four, Willis’s Isle bore W. by S., -distant thirty-two miles; Cape Buller, to the west of which lie some -rocky islets, bore S. W. by W.; and the most advanced point of land to -the E., S. 63° E. We now steered along the shore, at the distance of -four or five miles, till seven o’clock, when, seeing the appearance of -an inlet, we hauled in for it. As soon as we drew near the shore, having -hoisted out a boat, I embarked in it, accompanied by Mr. Forster and his -party, with a view of reconnoitring the bay before we ventured in with -the ship. When we put off from her, which was about four miles from the -shore, we had forty fathoms’ water. I continued to sound as I went -farther in, but found no bottom with a line of thirty-four fathoms, -which was the length of that I had in the boat, and which also proved -too short to sound the bay, so far as I went up it. I observed it to lie -in S. W. by S. about two leagues, about two miles broad, well sheltered -from all winds; and I judged there might be good anchorage before some -sandy beaches which are on each side, and likewise near a low flat isle, -towards the head of the bay. As I had come to a resolution not to bring -the ship in, I did not think it worth my while to go and examine these -places; for it did not seem probable that any one would ever be -benefited by the discovery. I landed in three different places, -displayed our colours, and took possession of the country in his -Majesty’s name, under a discharge of small arms. - -I judged that the tide rises about four or five feet, and that it is -high water on the full and change days about eleven o’clock. - -The head of the bay, as well as two places on each side, was terminated -by perpendicular ice-cliffs of considerable height. Pieces were -continually breaking off, and floating out to sea; and a great fall -happened while we were in the bay, which made a noise like cannon. - -The inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible. The -wild rocks raised their lofty summits, till they were lost in the -clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree -was to be seen, nor a shrub even big enough to make a toothpick. The -only vegetation we met with, was a coarse strong-bladed grass, growing -in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprung from the -rocks. - -Seals, or sea bears, were pretty numerous. They were smaller than those -at Staten Land; perhaps the most of those we saw were females; for the -shore swarmed with young cubs. We saw none of that sort which we call -lions; but there were some of those which the writer of Lord Anson’s -Voyage describes under that name; at least they appeared to us to be of -the same sort; and are, in my opinion, very improperly called lions; for -I could not see any grounds for the comparison. - -Here were several flocks of penguins, the largest I ever saw; some, -which we brought on board, weighed from twenty-nine to thirty-eight -pounds. It appears by Bougainville’s account of the animals of Falkland -Islands, that this penguin is there; and I think it is very well -described by him under the name of First Class of Penguins.[17] The -Oceanic birds were albatrosses, common gulls, and that sort which I call -Port Egmont hens, terns, shags, divers, the new white bird, and a small -bird like those of the Cape of Good Hope, called yellow birds; which, -having shot two, we found most delicious food. - -All the land birds we saw consisted of a few small larks; nor did we -meet with any quadrupeds. Mr. Forster, indeed, observed some dung, which -he judged to come from a fox, or some such animal. The lands, or rather -rocks, bordering on the sea-coast, were not covered with snow like the -inland parts; but all the vegetation we could see on the clear places -was the grass above mentioned. The rocks seemed to contain iron. Having -made the above observations, we set out for the ship, and got on board a -little after twelve o’clock, with a quantity of seals and penguins, an -acceptable present to the crew. - -It must not, however, be understood that we were in want of provisions: -we had yet plenty of every kind; and since we had been on this coast, I -had ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat to be boiled -every morning for breakfast; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by -most on board to salt. For my own part, I was now, for the first time, -heartily tired of salt meat of every kind; and though the flesh of the -penguins could scarcely vie with bullock’s liver, its being fresh was -sufficient to make it go down. I called the bay we had been in, -Possession Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 54° 5ʹ S., longitude -37° 18ʹ W., and eleven leagues to the east of Cape North. A few miles to -the west of Possession Bay, between it and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of -Isles; so named on account of several small isles lying in and before -it. - -As soon as the boat was hoisted in, we made sail along the coast to the -E. with a fine breeze at W. S. W. From Cape Buller, the direction of the -coast is S. 72° 30ʹ E., for the space of eleven or twelve leagues, to a -projecting point, which obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this -Cape, is a pretty large bay, which I named Cumberland Bay. In several -parts in the bottom of it, as also in some others of less extent, lying -between Cape Saunders and Possession Bay, were vast tracks of frozen -snow, or ice not yet broken loose. At eight o’clock, being just past -Cumberland Bay, and falling little wind, we hauled off the coast, from -which we were distant about four miles, and found one hundred and ten -fathoms’ water. - -We had variable light airs and calms till six o’clock the next morning, -when the wind fixed at N. and blew a gentle breeze; but it lasted no -longer than ten o’clock, when it fell almost to a calm. At noon, -observed in latitude 54° 30ʹ S., being then about two or three leagues -from the coast, which extended from N. 59° W. to S. 13° W. The land in -this last direction was an isle, which seemed to be the extremity of the -coast to the east. The nearest land to us being a projecting point which -terminated in a round hillock, was, on account of the day, named Cape -Charlotte. On the west side of Cape Charlotte lies a bay, which obtained -the name of Royal Bay, and the west point of it was named Cape George. -It is the east point of Cumberland Bay, and lies in the direction of -S. E. by E. from Cape Saunders, distant seven leagues. Cape George and -Cape Charlotte lie in the direction of S. 37° E., and N. 37° W., distant -six leagues from each other. The isle above mentioned, which was called -Cooper’s Isle, after my first lieutenant, lies in the direction of S. by -E., distant eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. The coast between them -forms a large bay, to which I gave the name of Sandwich. The wind being -variable all the afternoon, we advanced but little; in the night it -fixed at S. and S. S. W., and blew a gentle gale attended with showers -of snow. - -The 19th was wholly spent in plying, the wind continuing at S. and -S. W., clear pleasant weather, but cold. At sun-rise, a new land was -seen bearing S. E. 1/2 E. It first appeared in a single hill, like a -sugar-loaf; some time after, other detached pieces appeared above the -horizon near the hill. At noon observed in the latitude 54° 42ʹ 30ʺ S., -Cape Charlotte bearing N. 38° W., distant four leagues; and Cooper’s -Isle S. 31° W. In this situation, a lurking rock, which lies off -Sandwich Bay, five miles from the land, bore W. 1/2 N., distant one -mile, and near this rock were several breakers. In the afternoon we had -a prospect of a ridge of mountains behind Sandwich Bay, whose lofty and -icy summits were elevated high above the clouds. The wind continued at -S. S. W. till six o’clock, when it fell to a calm. At this time Cape -Charlotte bore N. 31° W., and Cooper’s Island W. S. W. In this situation -we found the variation, by the azimuths, to be 11° 39ʹ, and by the -amplitude, ll° 12ʹ E. At ten o’clock, a light breeze springing up at N., -we steered to the S. till twelve, and then brought to for the night. - -At two o’clock in the morning of the 20th, we made sail to S. W., round -Cooper’s Island. It is a rock of considerable height, about five miles -in circuit, and one mile from the main. At this isle the main coast -takes a S. W. direction for the space of four or five leagues to a -point, which I called Cape Disappointment. Off that, are three small -isles, the southernmost of which is green, low, and flat, and lies one -league from the Cape. - -As we advanced to S. W., land opened off this point, in the direction of -N. 60° West, and nine leagues beyond it. It proved an island quite -detached from the main, and obtained the name of Pickersgill Island, -after my third officer. Soon after, a point of the main, beyond this -island, came in sight, in the direction of N. 55° W.; which exactly -united the coast at the very point we had seen, and taken the bearing -of, the day we first came in with it, and proved to a demonstration that -this land, which we had taken for part of a great continent, was no more -than an island of seventy leagues in circuit. - -Who would have thought that an island of no greater extent than this, -situated between the latitude of 54° and 55°, should, in the very height -of summer, be in a manner wholly covered many fathoms deep with frozen -snow, but more especially the S. W. coast? The very sides and craggy -summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow and ice; but the -quantity which lay in the valleys is incredible; and at the bottom of -the bays, the coast was terminated by a wall of ice of considerable -height. It can hardly be doubted that a great deal of ice is formed here -in the winter, which in the spring is broken off and dispersed over the -sea; but this island cannot produce the ten-thousandth part of what we -saw; so that either there must be more land, or the ice is formed -without it. These reflections led me to think that the land we had seen -the preceding day might belong to an extensive track; and I still had -hopes of discovering a continent. I must confess the disappointment I -now met with, did not affect me much, for to judge of the bulk by the -sample, it would not be worth the discovery. - -I called this land the Isle of Georgia in honour of his Majesty. It is -situated between the latitude of 53° 57ʹ and 54° 57ʹ S.; and between 38° -13ʹ and 35° 34ʹ W. longitude. It extends S. E. by E., and N. W. by W. -and is thirty-one leagues long in that direction; and its greatest -breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound with bays and harbours, -the N. E. coast especially; but the vast quantity of ice must render -them inaccessible the greatest part of the year; or, at least, it must -be dangerous lying in them, on account of the breaking up of the -ice-cliffs. - -It is remarkable that we did not see a river or stream of fresh water, -on the whole coast. I think it highly probable that there are no -perennial springs in the country; and that the interior parts, as being -much elevated, never enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in such -quantities as to produce a river or stream of water. The coast alone -receives warmth sufficient to melt the snow, and this only on the N. E. -side; for the other, besides being exposed to the cold south winds, is -in a great degree deprived of the sun’s rays by the uncommon height of -the mountains. - -It was from a persuasion that the sea-coast of a land situated in the -latitude of 54°, could not, in the very height of summer, be wholly -covered with snow, that I supposed Bouvet’s discovery to be large -islands of ice. But after I had seen this land, I no longer hesitated -about the existence of Cape Circumcision; nor did I doubt that I should -find more land than I should have time to explore. With these ideas I -quitted this coast, and directed my course to the E. S. E. for the land -we had seen the preceding day. - -The wind was very variable till noon, when it fixed at N. N. E., and -blew a gentle gale; but it increased in such a manner, that, before -three o’clock, we were reduced to our two courses, and obliged to strike -top-gallant yards. We were very fortunate in getting clear of the land -before this gale overtook us, it being hard to say what might have been -the consequence had it come on while we were on the north coast. This -storm was of short duration, for at eight o’clock it began to abate, and -at midnight it was little wind. We then took the opportunity to sound, -but found no bottom with a line of an hundred and eighty fathoms. - -Next day the storm was succeeded by a thick fog, attended with rain; the -wind veered to N. W., and at five in the morning it fell calm, which -continued till eight, and then we got a breeze southerly, with which we -stood to the east till three in the afternoon. The weather then coming -somewhat clear, we made sail and steered north in search of the land; -but at half past six we were again involved in a thick mist, which made -it necessary to haul the wind, and spend the night in making short -boards. - -We had variable light airs, next to a calm, and thick foggy weather, -till half-past seven o’clock in the evening of the 22d, when we got a -fine breeze at N., and the weather was so clear that we could see two or -three leagues round us. We seized the opportunity, and steered to west; -judging we were to the east of the land. After running ten miles to the -west, the weather became again foggy, and we hauled the wind, and spent -the night under top-sails. - -Next morning, at six o’clock, the fog clearing away so that we could see -three or four miles, I took the opportunity to steer again to the W., -with the wind at E., a fresh breeze; but two hours after, a thick fog -once more obliged us to haul the wind to the south. At eleven o’clock, a -short interval of clear weather gave us a view of three or four rocky -islets, extending from S. E. to E. N. E., two or three miles distant; -but we did not see the Sugar-loaf Peak before-mentioned. Indeed, two or -three miles was the extent of our horizon. - -We were well assured that this was the land we had seen before, which we -had now been quite round: and therefore it could be no more than a few -detached rocks, receptacles for birds, of which we now saw vast numbers, -especially shags, who gave us notice of the vicinity of land before we -saw it. These rocks lie in the latitude of 55° S. and S. 75° E., distant -twelve leagues from Cooper’s Isle. - -The interval of clear weather was of very short duration, before we had -as thick a fog as ever, attended with rain; on which we tacked in sixty -fathoms’ water, and stood to the north. Thus we spent our time involved -in a continual thick mist; and for aught we knew, surrounded by -dangerous rocks. The shags and soundings were our best pilots; for after -we had stood a few miles to the north, we got out of soundings, and saw -no more shags. The succeeding day and night were spent in making short -boards; and at eight o’clock on the 24th, judging ourselves not far from -the rocks by some straggling shags which came about us, we sounded in -sixty fathoms’ water, the bottom stones and broken shells. Soon after, -we saw the rocks bearing S. S. W. 1/2 W., four miles distant, but still -we did not see the Peak. It was, no doubt, beyond our horizon, which was -limited to a short distance; and, indeed, we had but a transient sight -of the other rocks, before they were again lost in the fog. - -With a light air of wind at N., and a great swell from N. E., we were -able to clear the rocks to the W.; and at four in the P. M., judging -ourselves to be three or four leagues E. and W. of them, I steered S., -being quite tired with cruizing about them in a thick fog; nor was it -worth my while to spend any more time in waiting for clear weather, only -for the sake of having a good sight of a few straggling rocks. At seven -o’clock, we had at intervals a clear sky to the W., which gave us a -sight of the mountains of the Isle of Georgia, bearing W. N. W., about -eight leagues distant. At eight o’clock we steered S. E. by S., and at -ten S. E. by E., with a fresh breeze at N., attended with a very thick -fog; but we were, in some measure, acquainted with the sea over which we -were running. The rocks above-mentioned obtained the name of Clerke’s -Rocks, after my second officer, he being the first who saw them. - - - - - CHAP. VI. - - PROCEEDINGS AFTER LEAVING THE ISLE OF GEORGIA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE -DISCOVERY OF SANDWICH LAND; WITH SOME REASONS FOR THERE BEING LAND ABOUT - THE SOUTH POLE. - - -On the 25th we steered E. S. E., with a fresh gale at N. N. E., attended -with foggy weather, till towards the evening, when the sky becoming -clear, we found the variation to be 9° 26ʹ E., being at this time in the -latitude of 56° 16ʹ S., longitude 32° 9ʹ W. - -Having continued to steer E. S. E., with a fine gale at N. N. W., till -daylight next morning, on seeing no land to the E., I gave orders to -steer S., being at this time in the latitude of 56° 33ʹ S., longitude -31° 10ʹ W. The weather continued clear, and gave us an opportunity to -observe several distances of the sun and moon for the correcting our -longitude, which at noon was 31° 4ʹ W., the latitude observed 57° 38ʹ S. -We continued to steer to the S. till the 27th at noon, at which time we -were in the latitude of 59° 46ʹ S., and had so thick a fog that we could -not see a ship’s length. It being no longer safe to sail before the -wind, as we were to expect soon to fall in with ice, I therefore hauled -to the E., having a gentle breeze at N. N. E. Soon after, the fog -clearing away, we resumed our course to the S. till four o’clock, when -it returned again as thick as ever, and made it necessary for us to haul -upon a wind. - -I now reckoned we were in latitude 60° S., and farther I did not intend -to go, unless I observed some certain signs of soon meeting with land; -for it would not have been prudent in me to have spent my time in -penetrating to the south, when it was at least as probable that a large -tract of land might be found near Cape Circumcision. Besides, I was -tired of these high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be found -but ice and thick fogs. We had now a long hollow swell from the W., a -strong indication that there was no land in that direction; so that I -think I may venture to assert that the extensive coast, laid down in Mr. -Dalrymple’s chart of the ocean between Africa and America, and the Gulph -of Saint Sebastian, do not exist. - -At seven o’clock in the evening, the fog receding from us a little, gave -us a sight of an ice-island, several penguins and some snow peterels; we -sounded, but found no ground at one hundred and forty fathoms. The fog -soon returning, we spent the night in making boards over that space -which we had, in some degree, made ourselves acquainted with in the day. - -At eight in the morning of the 28th, we stood to the E., with a gentle -gale at N.; the weather began to clear up, and we found the sea strewed -with large and small ice; several penguins, snow peterels, and other -birds were seen, and some whales. Soon after we had sun-shine, but the -air was cold; the mercury in the thermometer stood generally at -thirty-five, but at noon it was at 37°; the latitude by observation was -60° 4ʹ S., longitude 29° 23ʹ W. - -We continued to stand to the E. till half-past two o’clock P. M., when -we fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large ice-islands, and a -sea strewed with loose ice. The weather too was become thick and hazy, -attended with drizzling rain and sleet, which made it the more dangerous -to stand in among the ice. For this reason we tacked and stood back to -the W., with the wind at N. The ice-islands, which at this time -surrounded us, were nearly all of equal height, and showed a flat even -surface; but they were of various extent, some being two or three miles -in circuit. The loose ice was what had broken from these isles. - -Next morning, the wind falling and veering to S. W., we steered N. E., -but this course was soon intercepted by numerous ice-islands; and, -having but very little wind, we were obliged to steer such courses as -carried us the clearest of them; so that we hardly made any advance, one -way or other, during the whole day. Abundance of whales and penguins -were about us all the time; and the weather fair, but dark and gloomy. - -At midnight the wind began to freshen at N. N. E., with which we stood -to N. W. till six in the morning of the 30th, when the wind veering to -N. N. W., we tacked and stood to N. E., and soon after sailed through a -good deal of loose ice, and passed two large islands. Except a short -interval of clear weather about nine o’clock, it was continually foggy, -with either sleet or snow. At noon we were, by our reckoning, in the -latitude of 59° 30ʹ S., longitude 29° 24ʹ W. - -Continuing to stand to N. E., with a fresh breeze at N. N. W., at two -o’clock, we passed one of the largest ice-islands we had seen in the -voyage, and some time after passed two others, which were much smaller. -Weather still foggy, with sleet; and the wind continued at N. by W., -with which we stood to N. E. over a sea strewed with ice. - -At half an hour past six in the morning, as we were standing N. N. E. -with the wind at W., the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, we -discovered land a-head, three or four miles distant. On this we hauled -the wind to the N., but finding we could not weather the land on this -tack, we soon after tacked in one hundred and seventy-five fathoms -water, three miles from the shore, and about half a league from some -breakers. The weather then cleared up a little more, and gave us a -tolerably good sight of the land. That which we had fallen in with -proved three rocky islets of considerable height. The outermost -terminated in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, and obtained the name of -Freezeland Peak, after the man who first discovered it. Latitude 59° S., -longitude 27° W. Behind this peak, that is to the east of it, appeared -an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the -clouds. It extended from N. by E. to E. S. E. and I called it Cape -Bristol, in honour of the noble family of Hervey. At the same time -another elevated coast appeared in sight, bearing S. W. by S., and at -noon it extended from S. E. to S. S. W., from four to eight leagues -distant; at this time the observed latitude was 59° 13ʹ 30ʺ S., -longitude 27° 45ʹ W. I called this land Southern Thule, because it is -the most southern land that has ever yet been discovered. It shows a -surface of vast height, and is every where covered with snow. Some -thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. It is -more than probable that these two lands are connected, and that this -space is a deep bay, which I called Forster’s Bay. - -At one o’clock, finding that we could not weather Thule, we tacked and -stood to the north, and at four, Freezeland Peak bore E., distant three -or four leagues. Soon after it fell little wind, and we were left to the -mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore. We -sounded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom. At eight -o’clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing up, we saw Cape -Bristol bearing E. S. E., and terminating in a point to the north, -beyond which we could see no land. This discovery relieved us from the -fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible coast in the -world, and we continued to stand to the north all night, with a light -breeze at W. - -On the 1st of February, at four o’clock in the morning, we got sight of -a new coast, which at six o’clock bore N. 60° E. It proved a high -promontory, which I named Cape Montagu, situated in latitude 58° 27ʹ S., -longitude 26° 44ʹ W., and seven or eight leagues to the north of Cape -Bristol. We saw land from space to space between them, which made me -conclude that the whole was connected. I was sorry I could not determine -this with greater certainty; but prudence would not permit me to venture -near a coast, subject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage; -where every port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole -country, from the summits of the mountains, down to the very brink of -the cliffs which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with -everlasting snow. The cliffs alone was all which was to be seen like -land. - -Several large islands lay upon the coast; one of which attracted my -notice. It had a flat surface, was of considerable extent both in height -and circuit, and had perpendicular sides, on which the waves of the sea -had made no impression; by which I judged that it had not been long from -land, and that it might have lately come out of some bay on the coast, -where it had been formed. - -At noon we were east and west of the northern part of Cape Montagu, -distant about five leagues, and Freezeland Peak bore S. 16° E., distant -twelve leagues; latitude observed 58° 25ʹ S. In the morning the -variation was 10° 11ʹ E. At two in the afternoon, as we were standing to -the north, with a light breeze at S. W. we saw land bearing N. 25ʹ E., -distant fourteen leagues. Cape Montagu bore at this time, S. 66° E.; at -eight it bore S. 40° E.; Cape Bristol, S. by E.; the new land extending -from N. 40° to 52° E.; and we thought we saw land still more to the E., -and beyond it. - -Continuing to steer to the north all night, at six o’clock the next -morning, a new land was seen bearing N. 12° E., about ten leagues -distant. It appeared in two hummocks just peeping above the horizon; but -we soon after lost sight of them; and having got the wind at N. N. E., a -fresh breeze, we stood for the northernmost land we had seen the day -before, which at this time bore E. S. E. We fetched in with it by ten -o’clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to tack three miles -from the coast, which extended from E. by S. to S. E., and had much the -appearance of being an island of about eight or ten leagues’ circuit. It -shows a surface of considerable height, whose summit was lost in the -clouds, and, like all the neighbouring lands, covered with a sheet of -snow and ice, except on a projecting point on the north side, and two -hills seen over this point, which probably might be two islands. These -only were clear of snow, and seemed covered with a green turf. Some -large ice-islands lay to the N. E., and some others to the S. - -We stood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in order to -see whether it was an island or no. The weather was now become very -hazy, which soon turning to a thick fog, put a stop to discovery, and -made it unsafe to stand for the shore; so that after having run the same -distance in, as we had run off, we tacked and stood to N. W. for the -land we had seen in the morning, which was yet at a considerable -distance. Thus we were obliged to leave the other, under the supposition -of its being an island, which I named Saunders, after my honourable -friend Sir Charles. It is situated in the latitude of 57° 49ʹ S., -longitude 26° 44ʹ W.; and N., distant thirteen leagues from Cape -Montagu. - -At six o’clock in the evening, the wind shifting to the W., we tacked, -and stood to the N., and at eight the fog clearing away, gave us a sight -of Saunders’s isle, extending from S. E. by S. to E. S. E. We were still -in doubt if it were an island; for, at this time, land was seen bearing -E. by S., which might, or might not be connected with it; it might also -be the same that we had seen the preceding evening. But, be this as it -may, it was now necessary to take a view of the land to the north before -we proceeded any farther to the east. With this intention, we stood to -the north, having a light breeze at W. by S., which, at two o’clock in -the morning of the 3d, was succeeded by a calm that continued till -eight, when we got the wind at E. by S., attended with hazy weather. At -this time we saw the land we were looking for, and which proved to be -two isles. The day on which they were discovered, was the occasion of -calling them Candlemas isles; latitude 57° 11ʹ S., longitude 27° 6ʹ W. -They are of no great extent, but of considerable height, and were -covered with snow. A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps there -may be more; for the weather was so hazy that we soon lost sight of the -islands, and did not see them again till noon, at which time they bore -W., distant three or four leagues. - -As the wind kept veering to the S. we were obliged to stand to the -N. E., in which route we met with several large ice-islands, loose ice, -and many penguins; and, at midnight, came at once into water uncommonly -white, which alarmed the officer of the watch so much that he tacked the -ship instantly. Some thought it was a float of ice, others that it was -shallow water; but as it proved neither, probably it was a shoal of -fish. - -We stood to the south till two o’clock next morning, when we resumed our -course to the E., with a faint breeze at S. S. E., which having ended in -a calm, at six, I took the opportunity of putting a boat in the water to -try if there were any current; and the trial proved there was none. Some -whales were playing about us, and abundance of penguins; a few of the -latter were shot, and they proved to be of the same sort that we had -seen among the ice before, and different both from those on Staten Land, -and from those at the isle of Georgia. It is remarkable, that we had not -seen a seal since we left that coast. At noon we were in the latitude of -56° 44ʹ S., longitude 25° 33ʹ W. At this time we got a breeze at E., -with which we stood to the S., with a view of gaining the coast we had -left; but at eight o’clock the wind shifted to the S., and made it -necessary to tack and stand to the E; in which course we met with -several ice-islands and some loose ice, the weather continuing hazy with -snow and rain. - -No penguins were seen on the 5th, which made me conjecture that we were -leaving the land behind us, and that we had already seen its northern -extremity. At noon we were in the latitude of 57° 8ʹ S., longitude 23° -34ʹ W., which was 3° of longitude to the east of Saunders’s isle. In the -afternoon the wind shifted to the W., this enabled us to stretch to the -S., and to get into the latitude of the land, that, if it took an east -direction, we might again fall in with it. - -We continued to steer to the S. and S. E. till next day at noon, at -which time we were in the latitude of 58° 15ʹ S., longitude 21° 34ʹ W., -and seeing neither land nor signs of any, I concluded that what we had -seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was either a group of islands, or -else a point of the continent; for I firmly believe that there is a -track of land near the pole which is the source of most of the ice that -is spread over this vast Southern Ocean. I also think it probable that -it extends farthest to the north opposite the southern Atlantic and -Indian Oceans, because ice was always found by us farther to the north -in these oceans than any where else, which I judge could not be, if -there were not land to the S.; I mean a land of considerable extent. For -if we suppose that no such land exists, and that ice may be formed -without it, it will follow of course that the cold ought to be every -where nearly equal round the pole, as far as 70° or 60° of latitude, or -so far as to be beyond the influence of any of the known continents; -consequently we ought to see ice every where under the same parallel, or -near it; and yet the contrary has been found. Very few ships have met -with ice going round Cape Horn; and we saw but little below the sixtieth -degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this -ocean, between the meridian of 40° W. and 50° or 60° E., we found ice as -far N. as 51°. Bouvet met with some in 48°; and others have seen it in a -much lower latitude. It is true, however, that the greatest part of this -southern continent (supposing there is one) must lie within the polar -circle, where the sea is so pestered with ice that the land is thereby -inaccessible. The risk one runs in exploring a coast, in these unknown -and icy seas, is so very great, that I can be bold enough to say that no -man will ever venture farther than I have done; and that the lands which -may lie to the south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow-storms, -intense cold, and every other thing that can render navigation -dangerous, must be encountered; and these difficulties are greatly -heightened, by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country; a country -doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun’s rays, but to -lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports which may be on the -coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast -thickness; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, -she would run a risk of being fixed there for ever, or of coming out in -an ice-island. The islands and floats on the coast, the great falls from -the ice-cliffs in the port, or a heavy snow storm attended with a sharp -frost, would be equally fatal. - -After such an explanation as this, the reader must not expect to find me -much farther to the south. It was, however, not for want of inclination, -but for other reasons. It would have been rashness in me to have risked -all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering and exploring a -coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end -whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or -geography, or indeed to any other science. Bouvet’s discovery was yet -before us, the existence of which was to be cleared up; and besides all -this, we were not now in a condition to undertake great things; nor -indeed was there time, had we been ever so well provided. - -These reasons induced me to alter the course to E., with a very strong -gale at N., attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of snow. The -quantity which lodged in our sails was so great, that we were frequently -obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of them, -otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. In -the evening it ceased to snow; the weather cleared up; the wind backed -to the W.; and we spent the night in making two short boards, under -close-reefed top-sails and fore-sail. - -At day-break on the 7th, we resumed our course to the E., with a very -fresh gale at S. W. by W., attended by a high sea from the same -direction. In the afternoon, being in the latitude of 58° 24ʹ S., -longitude 16° 19ʹ W., the variation was 1° 52ʹ E. Only three ice-islands -seen this day. At eight o’clock, shortened sail, and hauled the wind to -the S. E. for the night, in which we had several showers of snow and -sleet. - -On the eighth, at day-light, we resumed our east course with a gentle -breeze and fair weather. After sun-rise, being then in the latitude of -58° 30ʹ S., longitude 15° 14ʹ W.; the variation, by the mean results of -two compasses, was 2° 43ʹ E. These observations were more to be depended -on than those made the night before, there being much less sea now than -then. In the afternoon, we passed three ice-islands. This night was -spent as the preceding. - -At six next morning, being in the latitude of 58° 27ʹ S., longitude 13° -4ʹ W., the variation was 26ʹ E., and in the afternoon, being in the same -latitude, and about a quarter of a degree more to the E., it was 2ʹ W. -Therefore this last situation must be in or near the line in which the -compass has no variation. We had a calm the most part of the day. The -weather fair and clear, excepting now and then a snow shower. The -mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 40; whereas for several days -before, it had been no higher than 36 or 38. We had several ice-islands -in sight, but no one thing that could induce us to think that any land -was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening, a breeze sprung up at -S. E., with which we stood to N. E. - -During the night the wind freshened and veered to south, which enabled -us to steer east. The wind was attended with showers of sleet and snow -till day-light, when the weather became fair, but piercing cold, so that -the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury in the thermometer -was no higher than 34-1/2. At six o’clock in the morning, the variation -was 23ʹ west, being then in the latitude of 58° 15ʹ S., longitude 11° -41ʹ W., and at six in the evening, being in the same latitude, and in -the longitude of 9° 24ʹ W., it was 1° 51ʹ W. In the evening the wind -abated; and during the night it was variable between south and west. -Ice-islands continually in sight. - -On the 11th, wind westerly, light airs attended with heavy showers of -snow in the morning; but, as the day advanced, the weather became fair, -clear, and serene. Still continuing to steer east, at noon we observed -in latitude 58° 11ʹ, longitude at the same time 7° 55ʹ west. Thermometer -34-2/3. In the afternoon we had two hours’ calm, after which we had -faint breezes between the N. E. and S. E. - -At six o’clock in the morning of the 12th, being in the latitude of 58° -23ʹ S., longitude 6° 54ʹ W., the variation was 3° 23ʹ W. We had variable -light airs next to a calm all this day, and the weather was fair and -clear till towards the evening, when it became cloudy, with snow -showers, and the air very cold. Ice-islands continually in sight; most -of them small and breaking to pieces. - -In the afternoon of the 13th the wind increased, the sky became clouded, -and soon after we had a very heavy fall of snow, which continued till -eight or nine o’clock in the evening, when the wind abating and veering -to S. E., the sky cleared up, and we had a fair night, attended with so -sharp a frost, that the water in all our vessels on deck was next -morning covered with a sheet of ice. The mercury in the thermometer was -as low as 29°, which is 3° below freezing, or rather 4; for we generally -found the water freeze when the mercury stood at 33°. - -Towards noon on the 14th, the wind veering to the south, increased to a -very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls, attended with snow. At -intervals, between the squalls, the weather was fair and clear, but -exceedingly cold. We continued to steer east, inclining a little to the -north, and in the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or that of -Greenwich, in the latitude of 57° 50ʹ S. At eight in the evening, we -close-reefed the top-sails, took in the main-sail, and steered east, -with a very hard gale at S. S. W., with a high sea from the same -direction. - -At day-break on the 15th, we set the main-sail, loosed a reef out of -each top-sail, and with a very strong gale at S. W. and fair weather, -steered E. N. E. till noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 56° -37ʹ S., longitude 4° 11ʹ east, when we pointed to the N. E., in order to -get into the latitude of Cape Circumcision. Some large ice-islands were -in sight, and the air was nearly as cold as on the preceding day. At -eight o’clock in the evening, shortened sail, and at eleven hauled the -wind to the N. W., not daring to stand on in the night, which was foggy, -with snow-showers, and a smart frost. - -At day-break on the 16th, we bore away N. E. with a light breeze at -west, which, at noon, was succeeded by a calm and fair weather. Our -latitude at this time was 55° 26ʹ S., longitude 5° 52ʹ east, in which -situation we had a great swell from the southward, but no ice in sight. -At one o’clock in the P. M., a breeze springing up at E. N. E., we stood -to S. E. till six, then tacked, and stood to the north, under -double-reefed top-sails and courses, having a very fresh gale, attended -with snow and sleet, which fixed to the masts and rigging as it fell, -and coated the whole with ice. - -On the 17th the wind continued veering by little and little to the -south, till midnight, when it fixed at S. W. Being at this time in the -latitude of 54° 20ʹ S., longitude 6° 33ʹ east, I steered east, having a -prodigious high sea from the south, which assured us no land was near in -that direction. - -In the morning of the 18th it ceased to snow; the weather became fair -and clear; and we found the variation to be 13° 44ʹ west. At noon we -were in the latitude of 54° 25ʹ, longitude 8° 46ʹ east. I thought this a -good latitude to keep in, to look for Cape Circumcision; because, if the -land had ever so little extent in the direction of north and south, we -could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is said to lie in 54°. -We had yet a great swell from the south, so that I was now well assured -it could only be an island; and it was of no consequence which side we -fell in with. In the evening Mr. Wales made several observations of the -moon, and stars Regulus and Spica; the mean results, at four o’clock, -when the observations were made, for finding the time by the watch, gave -9° 15ʹ 20ʺ east longitude. The watch at the same time gave 9° 36ʹ 45ʺ. -Soon after the variation was found to be 13° 10ʹ west. It is nearly in -this situation that Mr. Bouvet had 1° east. I cannot suppose that the -variation has altered so much since that time; but rather think he had -made some mistake in his observations. That there could be none in ours -was certain, from the uniformity for some time past. Besides, we found -12° 8ʹ west, variation, nearly under this meridian, in January, 1773. -During the night the wind veered round by the N. W. to N. N. E., and -blew a fresh gale. - -At eight in the morning of the 19th, we saw the appearance of land in -the direction of E. by S. or that of our course; but it proved a mere -fog-bank, and soon after dispersed. We continued to steer E. by S. and -S. E. till seven o’clock in the evening, when, being in the latitude of -54° 42ʹ S., longitude 13° 3ʹ E., and the wind having veered to N. E., we -tacked and stood to N. W. under close-reefed top-sails and courses; -having a very strong gale, attended with snow showers. - -At four o’clock next morning, being in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ S., -longitude 12° 33ʹ E., we tacked, and stretched to N. E., with a fresh -gale at S. W., attended with snow-showers and sleet. At noon, being in -the latitude of 54° 8ʹ S., longitude 12° 59ʹ E., with a fresh gale at W. -by N. and tolerably clear weather, we steered E. till ten o’clock in the -evening, when we brought to, lest we might pass any land in the night, -of which we however had not the least signs. - -At day-break, having made sail, we bore away east, and at noon observed -in latitude 54° 16ʹ S., longitude 16° 13ʹ E., which is 5° to the east of -the longitude in which Cape Circumcision is said to lie; so that we -began to think there was no such land in existence. I however continued -to steer east, inclining a little to the south, till four o’clock in the -afternoon of the next day, when we were in latitude of 54° 24ʹ S., -longitude 19° 18ʹ E. - -We had now run down thirteen degrees of longitude, in the very latitude -assigned for Bouvet’s Land; I was therefore well assured that what he -had seen could be nothing but an island of ice; for, if it had been -land, it is hardly possible we could have missed it, though it were ever -so small. Besides, from the time of leaving the southern lands, we had -not met with the least signs of any other. But even suppose we had, it -would have been no proof of the existence of Cape Circumcision; for I am -well assured that neither seals, nor penguins, nor any of the oceanic -birds, are indubitable signs of the vicinity of land. I will allow that -they are found on the coasts of all these southern lands; but are they -not also to be found in all parts of the southern ocean? There are, -however, some oceanic or aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of -land; especially shags, which seldom go out of sight of it; and gannets, -boobies, and men of war birds, I believe, seldom go very far out to sea. - -As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude from our route to -the south, when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to -proceed any further to the east under this parallel, knowing that no -land could be there. But an opportunity now offering of clearing up some -doubts of our having seen land farther to the south, I steered S. E. to -get into the situation in which it was supposed to lie. - -We continued this course till four o’clock the next morning, and then -S. E. by E. and E. S. E. till eight in the evening, at which time we -were in the latitude of 55° 25ʹ S., longitude 23° 22ʹ E., both deduced -from observations made the same day; for, in the morning, the sky was -clear at intervals, and afforded an opportunity to observe several -distances of the sun and moon, which we had not been able to do for some -time past, having had a constant succession of bad weather. - -Having now run over the place where the land was supposed to lie, -without seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted -but that the ice-islands had deceived us as well as Mr. Bouvet. The wind -by this time having veered to the north, and increased to a perfect -storm, attended as usual with snow and sleet, we handed the top-sails, -and hauled up E. N. E. under the courses. During the night the wind -abated, and veered to N. W., which enabled us to steer more to the -north, having no business farther south. - - - - - CHAP. VII. - - HEADS OF WHAT HAS BEEN DONE IN THE VOYAGE; WITH SOME CONJECTURES - CONCERNING THE FORMATION OF ICE-ISLANDS; AND AN ACCOUNT OF OUR - PROCEEDINGS TILL OUR ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. - - -I had now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and -traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the -possibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of -the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, I had not -only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many -new ones, and left, I conceive, very little more to be done even in that -part. Thus I flatter myself, that the intention of the voyage has, in -every respect, been fully answered; the southern hemisphere sufficiently -explored; and a final end put to the searching after a southern -continent, which has, at times, ingrossed the attention of some of the -maritime powers for near two centuries past, and been a favourite theory -amongst the geographers of all ages. - -That there may be a continent, or large tract of land, near the pole, I -will not deny; on the contrary, I am of opinion there is; and it is -probable that we have seen a part of it. The excessive cold, the many -islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove that there must be -land to the south; and for my persuasion that this southern land must -lie, or extend, farthest to the north, opposite to the Southern Atlantic -and Indian Oceans, I have already assigned some reasons; to which I may -add the greater degree of cold experienced by us in these seas, than in -the Southern Pacific Ocean under the same parallels of latitude. - -In this last ocean, the mercury in the thermometer seldom fell so low as -the freezing point, till we were in 60° and upwards; whereas in the -others it fell as low in the latitude of 54°. This was certainly owing -to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to its extending farther -to the north, in these two seas than in the South Pacific; and if ice be -first formed at, or near land, of which I have no doubt, it will follow -that the land also extends farther north. - -The formation or coagulation of ice-islands, has not, to my knowledge, -been thoroughly investigated. Some have supposed them to be formed by -the freezing of the water at the mouths of large rivers, or great -cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off by their own -weight. My observations will not allow me to acquiesce in this opinion; -because we never found any of the ice which we took up incorporated with -earth, or any of its produce, as I think it must have been, had it been -coagulated in land waters. It is a doubt with me, whether there be any -rivers in these countries. It is certain, that we saw not a river, or -stream of water, on all the coast of Georgia, nor on any of the southern -lands. Nor did we ever see a stream of water run from any of the -ice-islands. How are we then to suppose that there are large rivers? The -valleys are covered, many fathoms deep, with everlasting snow; and, at -the sea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vast height. It is here where -the ice-islands are formed; not from streams of water, but from -consolidated snow and sleet, which is almost continually falling or -drifting down from the mountains, especially in the winter, when the -frost must be intense. During that season, the ice-cliffs must so -accumulate as to fill up all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a -fact which cannot be doubted, as we have seen it so in summer. These -cliffs accumulate by continual falls of snow, and what drifts from the -mountains, till they are no longer able to support their own weight; and -then large pieces break off, which we call ice-islands. Such as have a -flat even surface, must be of the ice formed in the bays, and before the -flat valleys; the others, which have a tapering unequal surface, must be -formed on, or under, the side of a coast composed of pointed rocks and -precipices, or some such uneven surface. For we cannot suppose that snow -alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain surface, such as the sea, such -a variety of high peaks and hills as we saw on many of the ice isles. It -is certainly more reasonable to believe that they are formed on a coast -whose surface is something similar to theirs. I have observed that all -the ice-islands of any extent, and before they begin to break to pieces, -are terminated by perpendicular cliffs of clear ice or frozen snow, -always on one or more sides, but most generally all round. Many, and -those of the largest size, which had a hilly and spiral surface, showed -a perpendicular cliff or side from the summit of the highest peak down -to its base. This to me was a convincing proof, that these, as well as -the flat isles, must have broken off from substances like themselves, -that is, from some large tract of ice. - -When I consider the vast quantity of ice we saw, and the vicinity of the -places to the pole where it is formed, and where the degrees of -longitude are very small, I am led to believe that these ice-cliffs -extend a good way into the sea, in some parts, especially in such as are -sheltered from the violence of the winds. It may even be doubted if ever -the wind is violent in the very high latitudes. And that the sea will -freeze over, or the snow that falls upon it, which amounts to the same -thing, we have instances in the northern hemisphere. The Baltic, the -Gulph of St. Laurence, the Straits of Belle-Isle, and many other equally -large seas, are frequently frozen over in winter. Nor is this at all -extraordinary, for we have found the degree of cold at the surface of -the sea, even in summer, to be two degrees below the freezing point; -consequently nothing kept it from freezing but the salts it contains, -and the agitation of its surface. Whenever this last ceaseth in winter, -when the frost is set in, and there comes a fall of snow, it will freeze -on the surface as it falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in one night, -form such a sheet of ice as will not be easily broken up. Thus a -foundation will be laid for it to accumulate to any thickness by falls -of snow, without its being at all necessary for the sea water to freeze. -It may be by this means these vast floats of low ice we find in the -spring of the year are formed, and which, after they break up, are -carried by the currents to the north. For, from all the observations I -have been able to make, the currents every where, in the high latitudes, -set to the N., or to the N. E. or N. W.; but we have very seldom found -them considerable. - -If this imperfect account of the formation of these extraordinary -floating islands of ice, which is written wholly from my own -observations, does not convey some useful hints to an abler pen, it -will, however, convey some idea of the lands where they are formed. -Lands doomed by nature to perpetual frigidness; never to feel the warmth -of the sun’s rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not words to -describe. Such are the lands we have discovered; what then may we expect -those to be which lie still farther to the south? For we may reasonably -suppose that we have seen the best, as lying most to the north. If any -one should have resolution and perseverance to clear up this point by -proceeding farther than I have done, I shall not envy him the honour of -the discovery; but I will be bold to say, that the world will not be -benefited by it. - -I had, at this time, some thoughts of revisiting the place where the -French discovery is said to lie. But then I considered that, if they had -really made this discovery, the end would be as fully answered as if I -had done it myself. We know it can only be an island; and if we may -judge from the degree of cold we found in that latitude, it cannot be a -fertile one. Besides, this would have kept me two months longer at sea, -and in a tempestuous latitude, which we were not in a condition to -struggle with. Our sails and rigging were so much worn, that something -was giving way every hour; and we had nothing left, either to repair or -replace them. Our provisions were in a state of decay, and consequently -afforded little nourishment, and we had been a long time without -refreshments. My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have -cheerfully have gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them; but I -dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, at a time when we had nothing -left to remove it. I must say farther, that it would have been cruel in -me to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually -exposed to longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, -throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my -power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they showed -themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came -in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as -being at all heightened by our separation from our consort the -Adventure. - -All these considerations induced me to lay aside looking for the French -discoveries, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope; with a resolution, -however, of looking for the isles of Denia and Marseveen, which are laid -down in Dr. Halley’s variation chart in the latitude of 41-1/2° S., and -about 4° of longitude to the east of the meridian of the Cape of Good -Hope. With this view I steered N. E., with a hard gale at N. W. and -thick weather; and on the 26th at noon, we saw the last ice-island, -being at this time in the latitude of 52° 52ʹ S., longitude 26° 31ʹ E. - -The wind abating and veering to the S., on the 1st of March, we steered -W., in order to get farther from Mr. Bouvet’s track, which was but a few -degrees to the east of us, being at this time in the latitude of 46° 44ʹ -S., longitude 33° 20ʹ E., in which situation we found the variation to -be 23° 36ʹ west. It is somewhat remarkable, that all the time we had -northerly winds, which were regular and constant for several days, the -weather was always thick and cloudy; but, as soon as they came S. of W. -it cleared up, and was fine and pleasant. The barometer began to rise -several days before this change happened; but whether on account of it, -or our coming northward, cannot be determined. - -The wind remained not long at south before it veered round by the N. E. -to N. W., blowing fresh and by squalls, attended, as before, with rain -and thick misty weather. We had some intervals of clear weather on the -afternoon of the 3d, when we found the variation to be 22° 26ʹ W.; -latitude at this time 45° 8ʹ S., longitude 30° 50ʹ E. The following -night was very stormy; the wind blew from S. W. and in excessively heavy -squalls. At short intervals between the squalls, the wind would fall -almost to a calm, and then come on again with such fury, that neither -our sails nor rigging could withstand it, several of the sails being -split, and a middle stay-sail being wholly lost. The next morning the -gale abated, and we repaired the damage we had sustained in the best -manner we could. - -On the 8th, being in the latitude of 41° 30ʹ S., longitude 26° 51ʹ E., -the mercury in the thermometer rose to 61, and we found it necessary to -put on lighter clothes. As the wind continued invariably fixed between -N. W. and W., we took every advantage to get to the west, by tacking -whenever it shifted any thing in our favour; but as we had a great swell -against us, our tacks were rather disadvantageous. We daily saw -albatrosses, peterels, and other oceanic birds; but not the least sign -of land. - -On the 11th, in the latitude of 40° 40ʹ S., longitude 23° 47ʹ E., the -variation was 20° 48ʹ W. About noon the same day, the wind shifting -suddenly from N. W. to S. W. caused the mercury in the thermometer to -fall as suddenly from 62° to 52°; such was the different state of the -air, between a northerly and southerly wind. The next day, having -several hours calm, we put a boat in the water, and shot some -albatrosses and peterels; which, at this time, were highly acceptable. -We were now nearly in the situation where the isles which we were in -search of, are said to lie; however, we saw nothing that could give us -the least hope of finding them. - -The calm continued till five o’clock of the next morning, when it was -succeeded by a breeze at W. by S., with which we stood to N. N. W. and -at noon observed in latitude 38° 51ʹ S. This was upwards of thirty miles -more to the north than our log gave us; and the watch shewed that we had -been set to the east also. If these differences did not arise from some -strong current, I know not how to account for them. Very strong currents -have been found on the African coast, between Madagascar and the Cape of -Good Hope; but I never heard of their extending so far from the land; -nor is it probable they do. I rather suppose that this current has no -connection with that on the coast; and that we happened to fall into -some stream which is neither lasting nor regular. But these are points -which require much time to investigate, and must therefore be left to -the industry of future navigators. - -We were now two degrees to the north of the parallel in which the isles -of Denia and Marseveen are said to lie. We had seen nothing to encourage -us to persevere in looking after them; and it must have taken up some -time longer to find them, or to prove their non-existence. Every one was -impatient to get into port, and for good reasons; as for a long time we -had had nothing but stale and salt provisions, for which every one on -board had lost all relish. These reasons induced me to yield to the -general wish, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope, being at this time -in the latitude of 38° 38ʹ S., longitude 23° 37ʹ E. - -The next day the observed latitude at noon was only seventeen miles to -the north of that given by the log; so that we had either got out of the -strength of the current, or it had ceased. - -On the 15th the observed latitude at noon, together with the watch, -shewed that we had had a strong current setting to the S. W. the -contrary direction to what we had experienced on some of the preceding -days, as hath been mentioned. - -At day-light, on the 16th, we saw two sail in the N. W. quarter standing -to the westward, and one of them shewing Dutch colours. At ten o’clock -we tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time in the latitude -of 35° 9ʹ S., longitude 22° 38ʹ E. - -I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers and -petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept; which were -delivered to me accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the -Admiralty. I also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to divulge -where we had been, till they had their Lordships’ permission so to do. -In the afternoon the wind veered to the west, and increased to a hard -gale, which was of short duration; for, the next day, it fell, and at -noon veered to S. E. At this time we were in the latitude of 34° 49ʹ S., -longitude 22° E.; and, on sounding, found fifty-six fathoms water. In -the evening we saw the land in the direction of E. N. E., about six -leagues distant; and, during the forepart of the night, there was a -great fire or light upon it. - -At day-break on the 18th, we saw the land again, bearing N. N. W., six -or seven leagues distant, and the depth of water forty-eight fathoms. At -nine o’clock, having little or no wind, we hoisted out a boat and sent -on board one of the two ships before mentioned, which were about two -leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news to regard the -distance. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with which we stood to -the south; and, presently, three sail more appeared in sight to -windward, one of which shewed English colours. - -At one P. M. the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder, -Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch, -very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. -Our people were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the -Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and -that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the -people of New Zealand; so that the story which we heard in Queen -Charlotte’s Sound was now no longer a mystery. - -We had light airs, next to a calm, till ten o’clock the next morning, -when a breeze sprung up at west, and the English ship, which was to -windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, Captain -Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the Cape, I put a -letter on board him for the Secretary of the Admiralty. - -The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed to us -by this ship. We also got, from on board her, a parcel of old -newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amusement; but these -were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a -generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company’s ships, he -sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were very -acceptable; and deserve from me this public acknowledgment. In the -afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and we in -for the land; having a fresh gale at west, which split our fore top-sail -in such a manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the yard. At -six o’clock we tacked within four or five miles of the shore; and, as we -judged, about five or six leagues to the east of Cape Aguilas. We stood -off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round to the south, we -tacked, and stood along-shore to the west. The wind kept veering more -and more in our favour, and at last fixed at E. S. E., and blew, for -some hours, a perfect hurricane. - -As soon as the storm began to subside we made sail, and hauled in for -the land. Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town bore -N. E. by E., distant nine or ten leagues. By making use of this bearing -and distance to reduce the longitude shewn by the watch to the Cape -Town, the error was found to be no more than 18ʹ in longitude, which it -was too far to the east. Indeed, the difference we found between it and -the lunar observations, since we left New Zealand, had seldom exceeded -half a degree, and always the same way. - -The next morning, being with us Wednesday, the 22d, but with the people -here Tuesday, the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found several -Dutch ships; some French; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East -India Company’s ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom I -sent a copy of the preceding parts of this journal, some charts, and -other drawings, to the Admiralty. - -Before we had well got to an anchor, I dispatched an officer to acquaint -the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary stores and -refreshments, which were readily granted. As soon as the officer came -back, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was -immediately returned with an equal number. - -I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; and I -found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the loss of -his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte’s Sound. The -captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my hands a -complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our second and -final separation, which I now lay before the public in the following -chapter. - - - - - CHAP. VIII. - -CAPTAIN FURNEAUX’S NARRATIVE OF HIS PROCEEDINGS, IN THE ADVENTURE, FROM - THE TIME HE WAS SEPARATED FROM THE RESOLUTION, TO HIS ARRIVAL IN - ENGLAND; INCLUDING LIEUTENANT BURNEY’S REPORT CONCERNING THE BOAT’S - CREW, WHO WERE MURDERED BY THE INHABITANTS OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND. - - -After a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we made the coast of -New Zealand near the Table Cape, and stood along-shore till we came as -far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow strong at west, with -heavy squalls and rain, which split many of our sails, and blew us off -the coast for three days; in which time we parted company with the -Resolution, and never saw her afterwards. - -On the 4th of November, we again got in shore, near Cape Palliser, and -were visited by a number of the natives in their canoes, bringing a -great quantity of cray-fish, which we bought of them for nails and -Otaheite cloth. The next day it blew hard from W. N. W., which again -drove us off the coast, and obliged us to bring to for two days; during -which time it blew one continual gale of wind with heavy falls of sleet. -By this time our decks were very leaky; our beds and bedding wet; and -several of our people complaining of colds; so that we began to despair -of ever getting into Charlotte Sound, or joining the Resolution. - -On the 6th, being to the north of the Cape, the wind at S. W. and -blowing strong, we bore away for some bay to complete our water and -wood, being in great want of both; having been at the allowance of one -quart of water for some days past; and even that pittance could not be -come at, above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga Bay on -the 9th, in latitude 38° 21ʹ S., longitude 178° 37ʹ E. It affords good -riding with the wind westerly, and regular soundings from eleven to five -fathoms, stiff muddy ground across the bay for about two miles. It is -open from N. N. E. to E. S. E. It is to be observed, easterly winds -seldom blow hard on this shore, but when they do, they throw in a great -sea; so that if it were not for a great undertow, together with a large -river that empties itself in the bottom of the bay, a ship would not be -able to ride here. Wood and water are easily to be had, except when it -blows hard easterly. The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte -Sound, but more numerous, and seemed settled, having regular plantations -of sweet potatoes, and other roots, which are very good; and they have -plenty of cray and other fish, which we bought of them for nails, beads, -and other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of their canoes we observed -the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other -ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, we -found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept as -the relic of some deceased relation. - -Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, we sailed for -Charlotte Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than the wind began -to blow hard, dead on the shore, so that we could not clear the land on -either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, where we -anchored the next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of wind at E. -by S. which threw in a very great sea. We now began to fear we should -never join the Resolution; having reason to believe she was in Charlotte -Sound, and by this time ready for sea. We soon found it was with great -difficulty we could get any water, owing to the swell setting in so -strong; at last, however, we were able to go on shore, and got both wood -and water. - -Whilst we lay here, we were employed about the rigging, which was much -damaged by the constant gales of wind we had met with since we made the -coast. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made the ship as -snug as possible, sailed again on the 16th. After this we met with -several gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and continued beating -backwards and forwards till the 30th, when we were so fortunate as to -get a favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at last got -safe into our desired port. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began -to doubt her safety; but on going ashore, we discerned the place where -she had erected her tents; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden, -observed these words cut out, “Look underneath.” There we dug, and soon -found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain -Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the -24th; and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the -Straits to look for us. - -We immediately set about getting the ship ready for sea as fast as -possible; erected our tents; sent the cooper on shore to repair the -casks; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in -butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely -spoiled, and most part so damaged that we were obliged to fix our copper -oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly delayed us a -considerable time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants came on board as -before, supplying us with fish, and other things of their own -manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, &c. and appeared very -friendly; though twice in the middle of the night, they came to the -tent, with an intention to steal, but were discovered before they could -get any thing into their possession. - -On the 17th of December, having refitted the ship, completed our water -and wood, and got every thing ready for sea, we sent our large cutter -with Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat’s crew, to gather wild greens -for the ship’s company; with orders to return that evening, as I -intended to sail the next morning. But, on the boat’s not returning the -same evening, nor the next morning, being under great uneasiness about -her, I hoisted out the launch, and sent her, with the second lieutenant, -Mr. Burney, manned with the boat’s crew and ten marines, in search of -her. My orders to Mr. Burney were, first to look well into East Bay, and -then to proceed to Grass Cove, the place to which Mr. Rowe had been -sent; and if he heard nothing of the boat there, to go farther up the -Sound, and come back along the west shore. As Mr. Rowe had left the ship -an hour before the time proposed, and in a great hurry, I was strongly -persuaded that his curiosity had carried him into East Bay, none in our -ship having ever been there; or else, that some accident had happened to -the boat, either by going a-drift through the boat-keeper’s negligence, -or by being stove among the rocks. This was almost every body’s opinion; -and on this supposition the carpenter’s mate was sent in the launch, -with some sheets of tin. I had not the least suspicion that our people -had received any injury from the natives; our boats having frequently -been higher up, and worse provided. How much I was mistaken, too soon -appeared; for Mr. Burney having returned about eleven o’clock the same -night, made his report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be -better described than in his own words, which now follow. - -“On the 18th we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our favour, -we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every -cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around -with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At half-past one, we -stopped at a beach, on the left hand side going up East Bay, to boil -some victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we -were cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a -beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat -and put off; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, -where we saw an Indian settlement. - -“As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved -for us to be gone; but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their -notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of -them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many as one -might expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. Leaving -the boat’s crew to guard the boat, I stepped a-shore with the marines -(the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of their houses; -but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beaten -paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses; but the -people continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our -search. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a -bundle of _Hepatoos_ (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly -at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming -unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a -looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the -bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N. N. W. a good mile, where it -ended in a long sandy beach. I looked all round with the glass, but saw -no boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with -firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along. - -“I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, -where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired of them about the boat, -but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold -us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach -adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled -up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and -ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get -tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we -found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of -which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One -of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he -took to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter’s crew. On -examining this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin -(the master) who was with me, supposed it was dog’s flesh, and I was of -the same opinion; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were -soon convinced by most horrid and undeniable proof. - -“A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach tied up, we cut -them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern-root, which -serves them for bread. On farther search, we found more shoes and a -hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of -our forecastle men, it being marked T. H. with an Otaheite -tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people a little way up the -woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot -covered with fresh earth about four feet diameter, where something had -been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass; and in the -mean time I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her; but seeing a -great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into -the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set. - -“On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one -single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, -on our approach, retreated to a small hill within a ship’s length of the -water-side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the top -of the high land beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down the -hill the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a -musquetoon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be -full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all afloat, but -nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill still kept -hallooing and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got -close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them -much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they -could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see -the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were -two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves -forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great -composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. One -of them however, got a fall, and either lay there or crawled off on all -fours. The other got clear without any apparent hurt. I then landed with -the marines, and Mr. Fannin stayed to guard the boat. - -“On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for -loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to -which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had -been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to -see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such -a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or -thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several -of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, -the dogs gnawing their entrails. - -“Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to -us that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I -returned to the boat, and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished -three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the -hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high -words, I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should attack us, and -try to save their canoes. It now grew dark, I therefore just stepped -out, and looked once more behind the beach to see if the cutter had been -hauled up in the bushes; but seeing nothing of her, returned and put -off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up -the hill, and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left -to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness. - -“As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire -about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, -reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water-side, the -middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I -consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could -expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing -some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general -volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and -out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What -was still worse, it began to rain; our ammunition was more than half -expended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so -many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where -nothing could be hoped for but revenge. - -“Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East -Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling, we lay on our oars and -listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but to -little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing; and, -indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect that, in all probability, -every man of them must have been killed on the spot.” - -Thus far Mr. Burney’s report; and, to complete the account of this -tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention that the -people in the cutter were Mr. Rowe; Mr. Woodhouse; Francis Murphy, -quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward -Jones, forecastle-men; John Cavenaugh and Thomas Milton, belonging to -the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain’s man, being ten in -all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and most -healthy people in the ship. Mr. Burney’s party brought on board two -hands, one belonging to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it; -the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of the -captain’s servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in a -hammock and thrown over-board, with ballast and shot sufficient to sink -it. None of their arms nor clothes were found, except part of a pair of -trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being fellows. - -I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these -savages; for, the morning Mr. Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes, -which came down and stayed all the forenoon in Ship Cove. It might -probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot; or the -fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so -incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which -encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were sensible that a gun was -not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that when discharged, -they must be loaded before they could be used again, which time they -knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was -a general meeting on the east side of the sound. The Indians of Shag -Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes, -and by a long single canoe, which some of our people had seen four days -before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr. Rowe in the cutter. - -We were detained in the sound by contrary winds four days after this -melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the -inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in the -same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an -inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had -not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr. Burney entered -the cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen hundred -or two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized of his -coming, they would have attacked him. From these considerations I -thought it imprudent to send a boat up again; as we were convinced there -was not the least probability of any of our people being alive. - -On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the -eastward to get clear of the Straits; which we accomplished the same -evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds before -we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S. S. E., till we got -into the latitude of 56° S., without any thing remarkable happening, -having a great swell from the southward. At this time the winds began to -blow strong from the S. W., and the weather to be very cold; and as the -ship was low and deep laden, the sea made a continual breach over her, -which kept us always wet; and by her straining, very few of the people -were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them. - -The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean; except now -and then, we saw a whale or porpoise, and sometimes a seal or two, and a -few penguins. In the latitude of 58° S., longitude 213°[18] E., we fell -in with some ice, and every day saw more or less, we then standing to -the E. We found a very strong current setting to the eastward; for by -the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the latitude of 61° S., -the ship was a-head of our account eight degrees. We were very little -more than a month from Cape Palliser in New Zealand to Cape Horn, which -is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and had continual -westerly winds from S. W. to N. W., with a great sea following. - -On opening some casks of peas and flour, that had been stowed on the -coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so thought it -most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into -the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After being to the -eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow so strong from -the westward as usual, but came more from the north, which brought on -thick foggy weather; so that for several days together we could not be -able to get an observation, or see the least sign of the sun. - -This weather lasted above a month, being then among a great many islands -of ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out for fear of running -foul of them, and, being a single ship, made us more attentive. By this -time our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, -which obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 54° S., but -we still continued to have the same sort of weather, though we had -oftener an opportunity of obtaining observations for the latitude. - -After getting into the latitude abovementioned, I steered to the east, -in order if possible to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As we -advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and -dangerous; they being much smaller than they used to be; and the nights -began to be dark. - -On the third of March, being then in the latitude of 54° 4ʹ S., -longitude 13° E., which is the latitude of Bouvet’s discovery, and half -a degree to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least sign of land, -either now or since we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking -for it, and hauled away to the northward. As our last track to the -southward was within a few degrees of Bouvet’s discovery, in the -longitude assigned to it, and about three or four degrees to the -southward, should there be any land thereabout, it must be a very -inconsiderable island. But I believe it was nothing but ice; as we, in -our first setting out, thought we had seen land several times, but it -proved to be high islands of ice at the back of the large fields; and as -it was thick foggy weather when Mr. Bouvet fell in with it, he might -very easily mistake them for land. - -On the 7th, being in the latitude of 48° 30ʹ S., longitude 14° 26ʹ E., -saw two large islands of ice. - -On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th -anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with -his Majesty’s ships Salisbury and Sea-horse. I saluted the Commodore -with thirteen guns; and soon after, the garrison with the same number; -the former returned the salute, as usual, with two guns less, and the -latter with an equal number. - -On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and Sea-horse -for the East Indies; but I remained refitting the ship and refreshing my -people till the 16th of April, when I sailed for England and on the 14th -of July anchored at Spithead. - - - - - CHAP. IX. - - TRANSACTIONS AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SOME - DISCOVERIES MADE BY THE FRENCH; AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT ST. - HELENA. - - -I now resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux’s interesting -Narrative in the preceding chapter, had obliged me to suspend. - -The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on shore and -waited on the governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other principal officers, -who received and treated us with the greatest politeness, contributing -all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there are few people -more obliging to strangers than the Dutch in general at this place, and -refreshments of all kinds are no where to be got in such abundance, we -enjoyed some real repose, after the fatigues of a long voyage. - -The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope, -and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a -custom not common any where else (at least I have no where seen it so -strictly observed), which is, for all the officers who can be spared out -of the ships to reside on shore. We followed this custom. Myself, the -two Mr. Forsters, and Mr. Sparrman, took up our abode with Mr. Brandt, a -gentleman well known to the English by his obliging readiness to serve -them. My first care after my arrival, was to procure fresh-baked bread, -fresh meat, greens, and wine, for those who remained on board; and, -being provided every day during our stay with these articles, they were -soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three men on board -whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their -health; and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty -stivers, or half a crown, per day, for which they were provided with -victuals, drink, and lodging. - -We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, by -permission, we erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks and -sails to be repaired. We also struck the yards and topmasts, in order to -overhaul the rigging, which we found in so bad a condition, that almost -every thing, except the standing rigging, was obliged to be replaced -with new; and that was purchased at a most exorbitant price. In the -article of naval stores, the Dutch here, as well as at Batavia, take a -shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners. - -That our rigging, sails, &c. should be worn out, will not be wondered -at, when it is known, that, during this circumnavigation of the globe, -that is, from our leaving this place, to our return to it again, we had -sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues; an extent of voyage, nearly -equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and -which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of -time before. And yet, in all this great run, which had been made in all -latitudes between 9° and 71°, we sprung neither low-masts, top-mast, -lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast -shroud; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be -owing to the good properties of our ship. - -One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the Ajax -Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been -second in command with Captain Morion, who sailed from this place with -two ships, in March, 1772, as hath been already mentioned. Instead of -going from hence to America, as was said, he stood away for New Zealand; -where, in the Bay of Isles, he and some of his people were killed by the -inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned by -the way of the Philippine Isles, with the two ships, to the Island of -Mauritius. He seemed to be a man possessed of the true spirit of -discovery, and to have abilities. In a very obliging manner, he -communicated to me a chart, wherein were delineated not only his own -discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down -in the very situation where we searched for it; so that I can, by no -means, conceive how both we and the Adventure missed it. - -Resides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but very -narrow island, extending east and west, Captain Morion, in about the -latitude of 48° S., and from 16° to 30° of longitude east of the Cape of -Good Hope, discovered six islands which were high and barren. These, -together with some islands lying between the line and the southern -tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were the principal discoveries made in this -voyage, the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication. - -By Captain Crozet’s chart it appeared that a voyage had been made by the -French across the South Pacific Ocean, in 1769, under the command of one -Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting discoveries, had -obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coast of Peru. He fitted -out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East Indies; proceeded by -way of the Philippine Isles; passed near New Britain; and discovered -some land in the latitude of 10° S., longitude 158° E. to which he gave -his own name. From hence he steered to the south; passed but a few -degrees to the west of New Caledonia; fell in with New Zealand at its -northern extremity, and put into Doubtful Bay, where it seems, he was, -when I passed it, on my former voyage, in the Endeavour. From New -Zealand, Captain Surville steered to the east, between the latitude of -35° and 41° south, until he arrived on the coast of America; where, in -the port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned. - -These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers, -have contributed something towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of -Captain Surville, clears up a mistake, which I was led into, in -imagining the shoals off the west end of New Caledonia to extend to the -west, as far as New Holland. It proves that there is an open sea in that -space, and that we saw the N. W. extremity of that country. - -From the same gentleman we learnt, that the ship which had been at -Otaheite before our first arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain; -and that, in her return, she had discovered some islands in the latitude -of 32° S. and under the meridian of 130° W. Some other islands, said to -be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart; but Captain -Crozet seemed to think, they were inserted from no good authorities. - -We were likewise informed of a later voyage undertaken by the French, -under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much to the -disgrace of that commander. - -While we lay in Table Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, bound -to and from India, viz. English, French, Danes, Swedes, and three -Spanish frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from, Manilla. It -is but very lately that the Spanish ships have touched here; and these -were the first that were allowed the same privileges as other European -friendly nations. - -On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and we were -obliged to unhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were also -delayed for want of calkers to calk the ship, which was absolutely -necessary to be done, before we put to sea. At length I obtained two -workmen from one of the Dutch ships; and the Dutton English East -Indiaman, coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice, obliged me with two more; -so that by the 26th of April, this work was finished; and having got on -board all necessary stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water, -we took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next -morning repaired on board. Soon after, the wind coming fair, we weighed -and put to sea; as did also the Spanish frigate Juno, from Manilla, a -Danish Indiaman, and the Dutton. - -As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with thirteen -guns; which compliment was immediately returned with the same number. -The Spanish frigate and Danish Indiaman, both saluted us as we passed -them, and I returned each salute with an equal number of guns. When we -were clear of the bay, the Danish ship steered for the East Indies, the -Spanish frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton for St. Helena. - -Depending on the goodness of Mr. Kendall’s watch, I resolved to try to -make the island, by a direct course. For the first six days, that is, -till we got into the latitude of 27° S., longitude 11-1/2° W. of the -Cape, the winds were southerly and S. E. After this we had variable -light airs for two days; they were succeeded by a wind at S. E. which -continued to the island, except a part of one day, when it was at N. E. -In general, the wind blew faint all the passage, which made it longer -than common. - -At day-break, in the morning of the 15th of May, we saw the island of -St. Helena, at the distance of fourteen leagues; and, at midnight, -anchored in the road before the town, on the N. W. side of the island. -At sunrise the next morning, the castle, and also the Dutton, saluted -us, each with thirteen guns; on my landing, soon after, I was saluted by -the castle, with the same number; and each of the salutes was returned -by the ship. - -Governor Skettowe, and the principal gentlemen of the island, received -and treated me, during my stay, with the greatest politeness, by showing -me every kind of civility in their power. - -Whoever views St. Helena, in its present state, and can but conceive -what it must have been originally, will not hastily charge the -inhabitants with want of industry. Though, perhaps, they might apply it -to more advantage, were more land appropriated to planting of corn, -vegetables, roots, &c. instead of being laid out in pasture, which is -the present mode. But this is not likely to happen, so long as the -greatest part of it remains in the hands of the Company and their -servants. Without industrious planters this island can never flourish, -and be in a condition to supply the shipping with the necessary -refreshments. - -Within these three years a new church has been built; some other new -buildings were in hand; a commodious landing-place for boats has been -made; and several other improvements, which add both strength and beauty -to the place. - -During our stay here we finished some necessary repairs of the ship, -which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our empty -water casks; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at -fivepence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only -refreshment to be had worth mentioning. - -By a series of observations made at the Cape Town, and at James Fort, in -St. Helena; at the former by Messrs. Mason and Dixon, and at the latter -by Mr. Maskelyne, the present astronomer royal, the difference of -longitude between these two places is 24° 12ʹ 15ʺ, only two miles more -than Mr. Kendall’s watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, -before we arrived at the island, and after we left it, and reduced to it -by the watch, gave 5° 51ʹ for the longitude of James Fort; which is only -five miles more west, than it is placed by Mr. Maskelyne. In like -manner, the longitude of the Cape Town was found within 5ʹ of the truth. -I mention this, to show how near the longitude of places may be found by -the lunar method, even at sea, with the assistance of a good watch. - - - - - CHAP. X. - - PASSAGE FROM ST. HELENA TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF - THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION AND FERNANDO NORONHO. - - -On the 21st, in the evening, I took leave of the governor, and repaired -on board. Upon my leaving the shore, I was saluted with thirteen guns; -and, upon my getting under sail, with the Dutton in company, I was -saluted with thirteen more; both of which I returned. - -After leaving St. Helena, the Dutton was ordered to steer N. W. by W. or -N. W. by compass, in order to avoid falling in with Ascension; at which -island, it was said, an illicit trade was carried on between the -officers of the India Company’s ships, and some vessels from North -America, who, of late years, had frequented the island, on pretence of -fishing for whales, or catching turtle, when their real design was to -wait the coming of the India ships. In order to prevent their homeward -bound ship from falling in with these smugglers, and to put a stop to -this illicit trade, the Dutton was ordered to steer the course -above-mentioned till to the northward of Ascension. I kept company with -this ship till the 24th, when, after putting a packet on board her for -the Admiralty, we parted; she continuing her course to the N. W. and I -steering for Ascension. - -In the morning of the 28th, I made the island, and the same evening -anchored in Cross Bay on the N. W. side, in ten fathoms’ water, the -bottom a fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The Cross Hill, so -called on account of a cross, or flag-staff erected upon it, bore by -compass S. 38° E.; and the two extreme points of the Bay extended from -N. E. to S. W. We remained here till the evening of the 31st; and, -notwithstanding we had several parties out every night, we got but -twenty-four turtle, it being rather too late in the season; however, as -they weighed between four or five hundred pounds each, we thought -ourselves not ill off. We might have had a plentiful supply of fish in -general; especially of that sort called old wives, I have no where seen -such abundance; there were also cavalies, congor eels, and various other -sorts; but the catching of any of these was not attended to, the object -being turtle. There are abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, such as -men-of-war and tropic birds, boobies, &c. - -The island of Ascension is about ten miles in length, in the direction -of N. W. and S. E. and about five or six in breadth. It shews a surface -composed of barren hills and valleys, on the most of which not a shrub -or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where we found nothing but -stones and sand, or rather slags and ashes; an indubitable sign that the -isle, at some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has -thrown up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of -stones we found a smooth even surface, composed of ashes and sand, and -very good travelling upon it; but one may as easily walk over broken -glass bottles as over the stones. If the foot deceives you, you are sure -to be cut or lamed, which happened to some of our people. A high -mountain, at the S. E. end of the isle, seems to be left in its original -state, and to have escaped the general destruction. Its soil is a kind -of white marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and produceth -a kind of purslain, spurg, and one or two grasses. On these the goats -subsist; and it is at this part of the isle where they are to be found, -as also land-crabs, which are said to be very good. - -I was told, that about this part of the isle is some very good land, on -which might be raised many necessary articles; and some have been at the -trouble of sowing turnips and other useful vegetables. I was also told -there is a fine spring in a valley which disjoins two hills on the top -of the mountain above mentioned; besides great quantities of fresh water -in holes in the rocks, which the person who gave me this information -believed was collected from rains. But these supplies of water can only -be of use to the traveller; or to those who may be so unfortunate as to -be shipwrecked on the island; which seems to have been the fate of some -not long ago, as appeared by the remains of a wreck we found on the -N. E. side. By what we could judge, she seemed to have been a vessel of -about one hundred and fifty tons burthen. - -While we lay in the road, a sloop of about seventy tons burthen came to -an anchor by us. She belonged to New York, which place she left in -February; and having been to the coast of Guinea with a cargo of goods, -was come here to take in turtle to carry to Barbadoes. This was the -story which the master, whose name was Greves, was pleased to tell, and -which may, in part, be true. But I believe the chief view of his coming -here, was the expectation of meeting with some of the India ships. He -had been in the island near a week, and had got on board twenty turtle. -A sloop, belonging to Bermuda, had sailed but a few days before with one -hundred and five on board, which was as many as she could take in; but -having turned several more on the different sandy beaches, they had -ripped open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left the carcasses to -putrify; an act as inhuman as injurious to those who came after them. -Part of the account I have given of the interior parts of this island I -received from Captain Greves, who seemed to be a sensible intelligent -man, and had been all over it. He sailed in the morning of the same day -we did. - -Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this isle from January to June. -The method of catching them is to have people upon the several sandy -bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is always -in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till there be an -opportunity to take them off the next day. It was recommended to us to -send a good many men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till -the turtle were ashore, and then rise and turn them at once. This method -may be the best when the turtle are numerous; but when there are but -few, three or four men are sufficient for the largest beach; and if they -keep patroling it, close to the wash of the surf, during the night, by -this method they will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise -than if there were more of them. It was by this method we caught the -most we got; and this is the method by which the Americans take them. -Nothing is more certain than that all the turtle which are found about -this island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs; for we -meet with none but females; and of all those which we caught, not one -had any food worth mentioning in its stomach; a sure sign, in my -opinion, that they must have been a long time without any; and this may -be the reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some I have ate on -the coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot where they -fed. - -The watch made 8° 45ʹ difference of longitude between St. Helena and -Ascension; which added to 5° 49ʹ, the longitude of James Fort in St. -Helena, gives 14° 34ʹ for the longitude of the Road of Ascension, or 14° -30ʹ for the middle of the island, the latitude of which is 8° S. The -lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, and reduced to the same point of -the island by the watch, gave 14° 28ʹ 30ʺ west longitude. - -On the 31st of May we left Ascension, and steered to the northward, with -a fine gale at S. E. by E. I had a great desire to visit the island of -St. Matthew, to settle its situation; but as I found the winds would not -let me fetch it, I steered for the island of Fernando de Noronho, on the -coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude, as I could not -find this had yet been done. Perhaps I should have performed a more -acceptable service to navigation, if I had gone in search of the island -of St. Paul, and those shoals which are said to lie near the equator, -and about the meridian of 20° west; as neither their situation nor -existence are well known. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the -passage in searching for what I was not sure to find; nor was I willing -to give up every object, which might tend to the improvement of -navigation or geography, for the sake of getting home a week or a -fortnight sooner. It is but seldom that opportunities of this kind -offer; and when they do, they are too often neglected. - -In our passage to Fernando de Noronho, we had steady fresh gales between -the S. E. and E. S. E. attended with fair and clear weather; and as we -had the advantage of the moon, a day or night did not pass without -making lunar observations for the determining our longitude. In this -run, the variation of the compass gradually decreased from 11° west, -which it was at Ascension, to 1° west, which we found off Fernando de -Noronho. This was the mean result of two compasses, one of which gave 1° -37ʹ, and the other 23ʹ west. - -On the 9th of June, at noon, we made the island of Fernando de Noronho, -bearing S. W. by W. 1/2 W., distant six or seven leagues, as we -afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, -the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As we drew -near the S. E. part of the isle, we perceived several unconnected sunken -rocks lying near a league from the shore, on which the sea broke in a -great surf. After standing very near these rocks, we hoisted our -colours, and then bore up round the north end of the isle, or rather -round a group of little islets; for we could see that the land was -divided by narrow channels. There is a strong fort on the one next the -main island, where there are several others; all of which seemed to have -every advantage that nature can give them, and they are so disposed as -wholly to command all the anchoring and landing-places about the island. -We continued to steer round the northern point, till the sandy beaches -(before which is the road for shipping) began to appear, and the forts -and the peaked hills were open to the westward of the said point. At -this time, on a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese -colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other -forts. As the purpose for which I made the island was now answered, I -had no intention to anchor; and therefore, after firing a gun to -leeward, we made sail and stood away to the northward, with a fine fresh -gale at E. S. E. The peaked hill or church tower bore south, 27° west, -distant about four or five miles; and from this point of view it leans, -or over-hangs, to the east. This hill is nearly in the middle of the -island, which no where exceeds two leagues in extent, and shows a hilly -unequal surface, mostly covered with wood and herbage. - -Ulloa says, “This island hath two harbours, capable of receiving ships -of the greatest burden; one is on the north side, and the other on the -N. W. The former is, in every respect, the principal, both for shelter -and capacity, and the goodness of its bottom; but both are exposed to -the north and west, though these winds, particularly the north, are -periodical, and of no long continuance.” He further says, that you -anchor in the north harbour (which is no more than what I would call a -road) in thirteen fathoms’ water, one third of a league from shore, -bottom of fine sand; the peaked hill above mentioned bearing S. W. 3° -southerly.[19] - -This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One -of my seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at this -isle in her way out, in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of -refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied them with some buffaloes -and fowls; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a little pool, -which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By reducing the observed -latitude at noon to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 3° 53ʹ south; -and its longitude, by the watch, carried on from St. Helena, is 32° 34ʹ -west; and by observations of the sun and moon, made before and after we -made the isle, and reduced to it by the watch, 32° 44ʹ 30ʺ west. This -was the mean result of my observations. The results of those made by Mr. -Wales, which were more numerous, gave 32° 23ʹ. The mean of the two will -be pretty near the watch, and probably nearest the truth. By knowing the -longitude of this isle, we are able to determine that of the adjacent -east coast of Brazil; which, according to the modern charts, lies about -sixty or seventy leagues more to the west. We might very safely have -trusted to these charts, especially the Variation Chart for 1744, and -Mr. Dalrymple’s of the Southern Atlantic Ocean.[20] - -On the 11th, at three o’clock in the afternoon, we crossed the equator -in the longitude of 32° 14ʹ west. We had fresh gales at S. S. E., -blowing in squalls, attended by showers of rain, that continued at -certain intervals, till noon the next day, after which we had -twenty-four hours’ fair weather. - -At noon, on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3° 49ʹ north, longitude -31° 47ʹ west, the wind became variable, between the N. E. and south; and -we had light airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard showers of -rain, and for the most part dark gloomy weather, which continued till -the evening of the 15th, when in the latitude of 5° 47ʹ north, longitude -31° west, we had three calm days, in which time we did not advance above -ten or twelve leagues to the north. We had fair weather and rain by -turns; the sky, for the most part, being obscured, and sometimes by -heavy dense clouds which broke in excessive hard showers. - -At seven o’clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was succeeded by a -breeze at east, which, the next day, increasing and veering to and -fixing at N. E., we stretched to N. W. with our tacks on board. We made -no doubt that we had now got the N. E. trade wind, as it was attended -with fair weather, except now and then some light showers of rain; and, -as we advanced to the north, the wind increased and blew a fresh -top-gallant gale. - -On the 21st, I ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper, -which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four -o’clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It was -continued till six o’clock in the evening; in which time we obtained -thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a -half of coals; which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was -necessary to have boiled the ship’s company’s victuals only; but the -expence of fuel was no object with me. The victuals were dressed in the -small copper, the other being applied wholly to the still; and every -method was made use of to obtain from it the greatest quantity of fresh -water possible, as this was my sole motive for setting it to work. The -mercury in the thermometer at noon was at eighty-four and a half, and -higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it been lower, more water, under -the same circumstances, would undoubtedly have been produced; for the -colder the air is, the cooler you can keep the still, which will -condense the steam the faster. Upon the whole, this is an useful -invention; but I would advise no man to trust wholly to it. For although -you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as -much water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts, -obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where -it is the most wanting; for I am well convinced, that nothing -contributes more to the health of seamen, than having plenty of water. - -The wind now remained invariably fixed at N. E. and E. N. E. and blew -fresh with squalls, attended with showers of rain, and the sky for the -most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the latitude of 16° 12ʹ north, -longitude 37° 20ʹ west, seeing a ship to windward steering down upon us, -we shortened sail in order to speak with her; but finding she was Dutch -by her colours, we made sail again and left her to pursue her course, -which we supposed was to some of the Dutch settlements in the West -Indies. In the latitude of 20° north, longitude 39° 45ʹ west, the wind -began to veer to E. by N. and E.; but the weather remained the same; -that is, we continued to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light -squalls and showers. Our track was between N. W. by N. and N. N. W. till -noon on the 28th, after which our course made good was N. by W., being -at this time in the latitude of 21° 21ʹ north, longitude 40° 6ʹ west. -Afterwards, the wind began to blow a little more steady, and was -attended with fair and clear weather. At two o’clock in the morning of -the 30th, being in the latitude of 24° 20ʹ north, longitude 40° 47ʹ -west, a ship, steering to the westward, passed us within hale. We judged -her to be English, as they answered us in that language; but we could -not understand what they said, and they were presently out of sight. - -In the latitude of 29° 30ʹ, longitude 41° 30ʹ, the wind slackened and -veered more to the S. E. We now began to see some of that sea-plant, -which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a supposition that it comes -from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to the contrary, it -may be a fact; but it seems not necessary, as it is certainly a plant -which vegetates at sea. We continued to see it, but always in small -pieces, till we reached the latitude 36°, longitude 39° west, beyond -which situation no more appeared. - -On the 5th of July, in the latitude of 32° 31ʹ 30ʺ north, longitude 40° -29ʹ west, the wind veered to the east, and blew very faint; the next day -it was calm; the two following days we had variable light airs and calms -by turns; and, at length, on the 9th, having fixed at S. S. W., it -increased to a fresh gale, with which we steered first N. E. and then -E. N. E. with a view of making some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On -the 11th, in the latitude of 36° 45ʹ north, longitude 36° 45ʹ west, we -saw a sail which was steering to the west; and the next day we saw three -more. - - - CHAP. XI. - -ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT THE ISLAND OF FAYAL, A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE, - AND THE RETURN OF THE RESOLUTION TO ENGLAND. - - -At five o’clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the island of Fayal, -one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we spent the -night making short boards. At day break, the next morning, we bore away -for the bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where, at eight o’clock, we anchored -in twenty fathoms water, a clean sandy bottom, and something more than -half a mile from the shore. Here we moored N. E. and S. W., being -directed so to do by the master of the port, who came on board before we -dropped anchor. When moored, the S. W. point of the bay bore S. 16° W., -and the N. E. point N. 33° E.; the church at the N. E. end of the town -N. 38° W.; the west point of St. George’s Island N. 42° E., distant -eight leagues; and the Isle of Pico extending from N. 74° E. to S. 46° -E. distance four or five miles. - -We found in the bay, the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an American -sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come last from the -river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provisions for the Cape Verde -Islands; but, not being able to find them, she steered for this place, -where she anchored about half an hour before us. - -As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity -to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix, with some -degree of certainty, the longitude of these islands, the moment we -anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul, and to notify -our arrival to the Governor, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to -make observations on shore, for the purpose above-mentioned. Mr. Dent, -who acted as consul, in the absence of Mr. Gathorne, not only procured -this permission, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in -his garden, to set up his instruments; so that he was enabled to observe -equal altitudes the same day. - -We were not more obliged to Mr. Dent for the very friendly readiness he -showed, in procuring us this and every other thing we wanted, than for -the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met with at his house, -which was open to accommodate us, both night and day. - -During our stay, the ship’s company was served with fresh beef; and we -took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought off in the -country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. Ships are -allowed to water with their own boats, but the many inconveniences -attending it more than overbalance the expense of hiring shore-boats -which is the most general custom. - -Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef, vegetables, -and fruit; and hogs, sheep, and poultry, for sea-stock, at a pretty -reasonable price; but I do not know that any sea-provisions are to be -had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are -small, and wretchedly poor. - -The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they -supply Pico, and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa -de Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of -the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, -and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore, from the one to -the other. But these works are suffered to go to decay, and serve more -for show than strength. They heighten the prospect of the city, which -makes a fine appearance from the road; but, if we except the Jesuits’ -College, the monasteries and churches, there is not another building -that has any thing to recommend it, either outside or in. There is not a -glass window in the place, except what are in the churches, and in a -country-house, which lately belonged to the English consul; all the -others being latticed, which, to an Englishman, makes them look like -prisons. - -This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is -crowded with religious buildings; there being no less than three -convents of men, and two of women; and eight churches, including those -belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jesuits’ college. The -college is a fine structure, and is seated on an elevation in the -pleasantest part of the city. Since the expulsion of that order, it has -been suffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few years, be no -better than a heap of ruins. - -Fayal, although the most noted for wine, does not raise sufficient for -its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no -road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thence -shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal -wine. - -The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the isle, -before the Villa de Horta, and facing the west end of Pico. It is two -miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a semi-circular -form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten, and even six fathoms, a -sandy bottom; except near the shore, and particularly near the S. W. -head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the line, which joins -the two points of the bay, so that it is not safe to anchor far out. The -bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, will direct any one to -the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds most to be -apprehended, are those which blow from between the S. S. W. and S. E.; -the former is not so dangerous as the latter, because, with it, you can -always get to sea. Besides this road, there is a small cove round the -S. W. point, called Porto Piere, in which, I am told, a ship or two may -lie in tolerable safety, and where they sometimes heave small vessels -down. - -A Portuguese captain told me, that about half a league from the road, in -the direction of S. E., in a line between it and the south side of Pico, -lies a sunken rock, over which is twenty-two feet water, and on which -the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. He also assured me, that of -all the shoals that are laid down in our charts and pilot-books about -these isles, not one has any existence but the one between the islands -of St. Michael and St. Mary, called Hormingan.—This account may be -believed, without relying entirely upon it. He further informed me, that -it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the island of Flores; and that -there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to -the N. E. and the ebb to the S. W., but that out at sea, the direction -is east and west. Mr. Wales having observed the times of high and low -water, by the shore, concluded that it must be high water at the full -and change about twelve o’clock, and the water riseth about four or five -feet. - -The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr. Rebiers, -lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me, that, after being by -estimation two leagues due south of Flores, they made forty-four -leagues, on a S. E. by E., course by compass, to St. Catherine’s Point, -on Fayal. - - I found the latitude of the } 38° 31ʹ 55ʺ N. - ship at anchor in the bay } - - By a mean of seventeen sets } - of lunar observations, taken} - before we arrived, } - and reduced to the bay by } 28 24 30 W. - the watch, the longitude } - was made } - - By a mean of six sets after } - leaving it, and reduced } 28 53 22 - back by the watch } - Longitude by observation 28 38 56 - ---------------- - Ditto, by the watch: 28 55 45 - Error of the watch on our } -- 16 26-1/2 - arrival at Portsmouth } - ---------------- - True longitude by the watch 28 39 18-1/2 - ---------------- - -I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken by -different compasses on board the ship, to agree very well with the like -observations made by Mr. Wales on shore; and yet the variation thus -found, is greater by 5°, than we found it to be at sea; for the azimuths -taken on board, the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more -than 16° 18ʹ west variation, and the evening after we came out, 17° 33ʹ -west. - -I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our run -from the Island of Fernando De Noronho, to Fayal. The least variation we -found was 37ʹ W., which was the day after we left Fernando De Noronho, -and in the latitude of 33ʹ S., longitude 32° 16ʹ W. The next day, being -nearly in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 1° 25ʹ N. it was 1° -23ʹ west; and we did not find it increase till we got into the latitude -of 5° N., longitude 31° west. After this our compasses gave different -variations, viz. from 3° 57ʹ to 5° 11ʹ W. till we arrived in the -latitude of 26° 44ʹ north, longitude 41° west, when we found 6° west. It -then increased gradually, so that in the latitude of 35° N. longitude -40° W., it was 10° 24ʹ W.; in the latitude of 38° 12ʹ N., longitude -32-1/2° W., it was 14° 47ʹ; and in sight of Fayal 16° 18ʹ W., as -mentioned above. - -Having left the bay at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered for -the west end of St. George’s Island. As soon as we had passed it, I -steered E. 1/2 S. for the Island of Tercera; and after having run -thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the west end. I -now edged away for the north side, with a view of ranging the coast to -the eastern point, in order to ascertain the length of the island; but -the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, I gave -up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for England. - -On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning, we -anchored at Spithead; and the same day, I landed at Portsmouth, and set -out for London, in company with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges. - -Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which -time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, and only -one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, at the conclusion of this -journal, to enumerate the several causes to which, under the care of -Providence, I conceive, this uncommon good state of health experienced -by my people was owing. - -In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary -attention paid by the Admiralty, in causing such articles to be put on -board as, either from experience or suggestion, it was judged would tend -to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the -reader’s time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were -found the most useful. - -We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made _Sweet -Wort_. To such of the men as showed the least symptoms of the scurvy; -and also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder, -this was given from one to two or three pints a day each man; or in such -proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted to -three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best antiscorbutic sea -medicines yet discovered: and, if used in time, will, with proper -attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from -making any great progress for a considerable while. But I am not -altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea. - -_Sour Krout_, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome -vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; and it spoils -not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man when at sea, -twice a week or oftener, as was thought necessary. - -_Portable Broth_ was another great article, of which we had a large -supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as -circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days in the -week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was -boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for breakfast; and -also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several -nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people -eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have -done. - -_Rob of Lemon_ and _Orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not without. The -surgeon made use of it in many cases, with great success. - -Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with _Sugar_ in -the room of _Oil_, and with _Wheat_ for a part of our _Oatmeal_; and -were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very -good antiscorbutic; whereas oil, (such as the navy is usually supplied -with,) I am of opinion, has the contrary effect. - -But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions -or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by -certain regulations. On this principle, many years’ experience, together -with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis, -and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was -to be governed. - -The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary -occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as -if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry cloaths to -shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to -expose them as little to wet weather as possible. - -Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, -cloaths, &c. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the -ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired -with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with -gunpowder mixed with vinegar or water. I had also frequently a fire made -in an iron pot at the bottom of the well, which was of great use in -purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this and to -cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great -attention cannot be paid; the least neglect occasions a putrid and -disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove. - -Proper attention was paid to the ship’s coppers, so that they were kept -constantly clean. - -The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to -be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. - -I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we -did not want it. Because I look upon fresh water from the shore, to be -more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board a ship. -Of this essential article, we were never at an allowance, but had always -plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot, -indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with, such advantages in -this respect, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us -into very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers inseparable from -that situation, were, in some degree, compensated by the singular -felicity we enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water -from an ocean strewed with ice. - -We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty of -nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in -the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of -any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige -our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority; but -the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind soon became so -obvious, that I had little occasion to recommend the one or to exert the -other. - -It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage -have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, -nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune; though my -relation of it has been more employed in tracing our course by sea, than -in recording our operations on shore; this, perhaps, is a circumstance -from which the curious reader may infer, that the purposes for which we -were sent into the southern hemisphere were diligently and effectually -pursued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better -enabled to gratify curiosity; but we hope our not having found it, after -all our persevering searches, will leave less room for future -speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored. - -But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with -real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention -to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation which -facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of -preserving health amongst a numerous ship’s company, for such a length -of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued -hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion -of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent -shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of -philosophers. - - - - - A - - VOCABULARY - - OF THE - - LANGUAGE - - OF THE - - _SOCIETY ISLES_. - - - DIRECTIONS - - FOR THE - - PRONUNCIATION OF THE VOCABULARY. - -As all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating their -ideas by characters (which represent the sound that conveys the idea), -have some particular method of managing or pronouncing the sounds -represented by such characters, this forms a very essential article in -the constitution of the language of any particular nation, and must -therefore be understood before we can make any progress in learning, or -be able to converse in it. But as this is very complex and tedious to a -beginner, by reason of the great variety of powers the characters of -letters are endued with under different circumstances, it would seem -necessary, at least in languages which have never before appeared in -writing, to lessen the number of these varieties, by restraining the -different sounds, and always representing the same simple ones by the -same character; and this is no less necessary in the English than any -other language, as this variety of powers is very frequent, and without -being taken notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it -entirely unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulation of all sounds, -it is these only that need be noticed, and the powers allotted to each -of these in the Vocabulary is subjoined. - -_A_ in the English language is used to represent two different simple - sounds, as in the word Arabia, where the first and last have a - different power from the second. In the Vocabulary this letter must - always have the power, or be pronounced like the first and last in - Arabia. The other power or sound of the second _a_, is always - represented in the Vocabulary by _a_ and _i_, printed in Italics thus, - _ai_. - -_E_ has likewise two powers, or it is used to represent two simple - sounds, as in the words Eloquence, Bred, Led, &c. and it may be said - to have a third power, as in the words Then, When, &c. In the first - case, this letter is only used at the beginning of words, and wherever - it is met with in any other place in the words of the Vocabulary, it - is used as in the second case: but never as in the third example; for - this power or sound is every where expressed by the _a_ and _i_ before - mentioned, printed in Italics. - -_I_ is used to express different simple sounds, as in the words - Indolence, Iron, and Imitation. In the Vocabulary it is never used as - in the first case, but in the middle of words; it is never used as in - the second example, for that sound is always represented by _y_, nor - is it used as in the last case, that sound being always represented by - two _ee_s, printed in Italics in this manner, _ee_. - -_O_ never alters in the pronunciation, _i. e._ in this Vocabulary, of a - simple sound, but is often used in this manner, _oo_, and sounds as in - Good, Stood, &c. - -_U_ alters, or is used to express different simple sounds, as in Unity, - or Umbrage. Here the letters _e_ and _u_, printed in Italics _eu_, are - used to express its power as in the first example, and it always - retains the second power, wherever it is met with. - -_Y_ is used to express different sounds, as in My, By, &c. &c. and in - Daily, Fairly, &c. Wherever it is met with in the middle or end (_i. - e._ any where but at the beginning) of a word, it is to be used as in - the first example; but is never to be found as in the second, for that - sound or power is always represented by the Italic letter _e_. It has - also a third power, as in the words Yes, Yell, &c. which is retained - every where in the Vocabulary, at least at the beginning of words, or - when it goes before another vowel, unless directed to be sounded - separately by a mark over it, as thus, ÿa. - -Unless in a few instances, these powers of the vowels are used -throughout the Vocabulary; but, to make the pronunciation still less -liable to change or variation, a few marks are added to the words as -follows: - -This mark: as öa, means that these letters are to be expressed singly. - -The letters in Italic, as _ee_ or _oo_, make but one simple sound. - -When a particular stress is laid on any part of a word in the -pronunciation, an accent is placed over that letter where it begins, or -rather between that and the preceding one. - -It often happens that a word is compounded as it were of two, or in some -cases the same word or syllable is repeated. In these circumstances, a -comma is placed under them at this division, where a rest or small space -of time is left before you proceed to pronounce the other part, but it -must not be imagined that this is a full stop. - - - _Examples in all these Cases._ - - Röa, Great, long, distant. - E’r_ee_ma, Five. - Ry’po_ee_a, Fog _or mist_. - E’h_oo_ra, _To_ invert, _or turn upside down_. - Par_oo_, r_oo_, _A_ partition, _division, or screen_. - - - A - - VOCABULARY, &c. - - A - - - To abide, _or remain_ Ete´_ei_. - - _An_ Abode, _or place of residence_ Noho´ra. - - Above, _not below_ N_ee_a, s. Tién_ee_a. - - _An_ Abcess Fe´fe. - - Action, _opposed to rest_, Ta´er_ee_. - - Adhesive, _of an adhesive or sticking quality_ _Oo_´p_ee_re. - - Adjoining, _or contiguous to_ E´p_ee_iho. - - Admiration, _an interjection of_ A´w_ai_, s. A´w_ai_ - to _Pee_r_ee_-_ai_. - - _An_ Adulterer, _or one that vexes a married T_ee_ho t_ee_ho, s. - woman_ Teeho teeho, ta´rar. - - _To_ agitate, _or shake a thing, as water, &c._ E_oo_a´w_ai_. - - Aliment, _or food of any kind_ Maa. - - Alive, _that is not dead_ Waura. - - All, _the whole, not a part_ A´ma_oo_. - - Alone, _by one’s self_ Ota´h_oi_. - - Anger, _or to be angry_ Warrad_ee_, s. - R_ee_d_ee_. - - _To_ angle, _or fish_ E´h_oo_tee. - - _The_ Ankle Momöa. - - _The inner_ Ankle A´t_oo_a, ewy. - - Answer, _an answer to a question_ Oo´m_ai_a. - - Approbation, _or consent_, Mad_oo_ho´why. - - _Punctuated_ Arches _on the hips_ E´var´re. - - _The_ Arm R_ee_ma. - - _The_ Armpit E´e. - - _An_ Arrow E´_oo_me. - - Arrow, _the body of an arrow or reed_ O´wha. - - _The point of an_ Arrow To´_ai_, s. O´möa. - - Ashamed, _to be ashamed or confused_ Ama, s. He´ama. - - Ashore, _or on shore_ Te Euta. - - _To_ ask _for a thing_ Ho´my, s. Ha´py my. - - Asperity, _roughness_ Tarra, Tarra. - - _An_ Assassin, _murderer, or rather man-killer, - soldier or warrior_ Taata, töa. - - _An_ Assembly, _or meeting_ Ete_ou_´r_oo_a. - - Atherina A´n_ai_h_eu_. - - Avaricious, _parsimonious, ungenerous_ P_ee_´p_ee_re. - - Averse, _unwilling to do a thing_ Fata, h_oi_to´ - h_oi_to. - - Authentic, _true_ Par_ou_, m_ou_. - - Awake, _not asleep_ Arra, arra´, s. E´ra. - - Awry, _or to one side; as a wry neck_ Na´na. - - _An_ Axe, _hatchet or adze_ Töe. - - Ay, _yes; an affirmation_ _Ai_. - - - B. - - _A_ Babe, _or child_ Mydidde. - - _A_ Batchelor, _or unmarried person_ E´ev_ee_ (taata. - - _The_ Back T_oo_a. - - _To wipe the_ Backside Fy´r_oo_, too´ty. - - Bad, _it is not good_ ´Eè´no. - - _A_ Bag _of straw_ Ete´öe, s. Eäte. - - Bait, _for fish_ Era´_eu_noo. - - Baked _in the oven_ Et_oo_n_oo_. - - Bald-headed _Oo_po´b_oo_ta. - - Bamboo _Ee_n_ee´ou_. - - A Bank, _or shoal_ E´paa. - - Bare, _naked, applied to a person that is - undressed_ Ta´turra. - - _The_ Bark _of a tree_ Ho´hore. - - Barren _land_ Fe´nooa Ma_ou_re. - - _A large round_ Basket _of twig_ He´na. - - _A small_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_ V_ai_´h_ee_. - - _A long_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_ Apo´_ai_ra. - - _A_ Basket _of plantain stock_ Papa´ M_aiee_a. - - _A fisher’s_ Basket Er´re´vy. - - _A round_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_ Mo´ene. - - _A_ Bastard Fanna t_oo_´n_ee_a. - - Bastinado, _to bastinade or flog a person_ Tapra´h_ai_. - - _To_ bathe Ob´_oo_. - - _A_ Battle, _or fight_ E´motto. - - _A_ Battle-axe O´morre. - - _To_ bawl, _or cry aloud_ T_ei_mo´toro. - - _A_ Bead Pöe. - - _The_ Beard _Oo_me _oo_me. - - _To_ beat _upon, or strike a thing_ T_oo_´py _or_ - T_oo_´ba_ee_. - - _To_ beat _a drum_ Er_oo_´k_oo_. - - _To_ beckon _a person with the hand_ Ta´rappe. - - _A_ Bed, _or bed-place_ E´ro_ee_, s. Möi´a. - - _To_ bedawb, _or bespatter_ Par´ry. - - _A_ Bee E´räo. - - _A_ Beetle P_ee_re´te_ee_. - - Before, _not behind_ Te´möa. - - _A_ Beggar, _a person that is troublesome, - continually asking for somewhat_ Tapa´r_oo_. - - Behind, _not before_, Te´m_oo_r_ee_. - - _To_ belch Er_oo_´y. - - Below, _as below stairs_ Teì´dirro, s. - T_ee_diraro. - - Below, _underneath, far below_ O´raro. - - _To_ Bend _any thing, as a stick, &c._ Fa´fe´fe. - - Benevolence, _generosity_ e.g. _You are a Ho´röa. Taata ho´roa - generous man_ öe. - - Between, _in the middle, betwixt two_ Fero´p_oo_. - - _To_ bewail, _or lament by crying_ E´tat_ee_. - - Bigness, _largeness, great_ Ara´hay. - - _A_ Bird Manoo. - - _A_ Bitch _Oo_re, e´_oo_ha. - - _To_ bite, _as a dog_ A´ah_oo_. - - Black, _colour_ Ere, ere. - - Bladder Töa´me eme. - - _A_ Blasphemer, _or person who speaks - disrespectfully of their deities_ T_oo_na, (t_aa_ta. - - Blind Matta-po. - - A Blister, _raised by a burn or other means_ M_ei_´_ee_. - - Blood, Toto, s. Eh_oo_´_ei_. - - _To_ blow _the nose_ Fatte. - - _The_ blowing, _or breathing of a whale_ Ta´hora. - - Blunt, _as a blunt tool of any sort_ Ma´_nee_a. - - _The carved_ Boards _of a Maray_ E´ra. - - _A little_ Boat, _or canoe_ E´väa. - - _A_ Boil Fe´fe. - - Boldness Eäw_ou_. - - _A_ Bone E´ev_ee_. - - _A_ Bonetto, _a fish so called_ Peera´ra. - - _To_ bore _a hole_ Ehoo´_ee_, s. - Eh_oo_´o. - - _A_ Bow E´fanna. - - _A_ Bow-string Aroö h_oo_a. - - _To_ bow _with the head_ Etoo´o. - - _A young_ Boy, My´didde. - - Boy, _a familiar way of speaking_ He´aman_ee_. - - _The_ Brain _of any animal_ A´b_oo_ba. - - _A_ Branch _of a tree or plant_, E´ama. - - Bread-fruit, _or fruit of the bread-tree_ _Oo_r_oo_. - - Bread-fruit, _a particular sort of it_ E´patëa. - - _An insipid paste of_ Bread-fruit Eh´öe. - - _The gum of the_ Bread-tree Tappo´_oo_r_oo_. - - _The leaf of the_ Bread-tree E´da´_oo_r_oo_. - - _The pith of the_ Bread-tree Po´_oo_r_oo_. - - _To_ break _a thing_ O´whatte, s. Owhanne, - s. Fatte. - - _The_ Breast, O´ma. - - _A_ Breast-plate _made of twigs, ornamented with - feathers, dog’s hair, and pearl shell_ Ta´_oo_me. - - _To_ breathe Watte w_ee_te w_ee_ - të´aho. - - Bring, _to ask one to bring a thing_, Ho´my. - - Briskness, _being brisk or quick_ T_ee_´t_ee_re. - - Broiled, _or roasted as broiled meat_ _Oo_aw_ee_ra. - - Broken, _or cut_ Mot_oo_. - - _The_ Brow, _or forehead_ E´ry. - - _A_ brown _colour_ A´ur_au_ra. - - Buds _of a tree or plant_ Te, arre´ha_oo_. - - _A_ Bunch _of any fruit_ E´ta. - - _To_ burn _a thing_ Döod_oo_e. - - _A_ Butterfly Pepe. - - - C. - - _To_ call _a person at a distance_ T_oo_o´t_oo_´o_oo_. - - _A_ Calm Ma´n_ee_no. - - _A_ Calm, _or rather to be so placed that the - wind has no access to you_ E_ou_, she´a. - - _Sugar_ Cane ´Töo, s. Etöo. - - _A_ Cap, _or covering for the head_ T_au_´matta. - - _To_ carry _any thing_ E´a´mo. - - _To_ carry _a person on the back_ Eva´ha. - - _To catch a thing hastily with the hand_, _as a - fly, &c._ Po´po_ee_, s. Peero. - - _To_ catch _a ball_ Ama´wh_ee_a. - - _To_ catch _fish with a line_ E´h_oo_te. - - _A_ Caterpillar E´t_oo_a. - - Celerity, swiftness T_ee_´teere, s. - E´tirre. - - _The_ Centre, _or middle of a thing_ Tera´p_oo_. - - Chalk Mamma´tëa. - - _A_ Chatterer, _or noisy impertinent fellow_ Taata E´m_oo_, s. - E´m_oo_. - - Cheerfulness Wara. - - _The_ Cheek Pappa´r_ee_a. - - _A_ Chest ´P_ee_ha. - - _The_ Chest, _or body_ O´p_oo_. - - _To_ chew, _or eat_ E´y. - - Chequered, _or painted in squares_ P_oo_re, p_oo_re. - - _A_ Chicken Möa pee´ri_ai_a. - - _A_ Chief, _or principal person; one of the first - rank amongst the people_ Eär_ee_. - - _An inferior_ Chief, _or one who is only in an - independent state, a gentleman_ T_oo_´_ou_. - - Child-bearing Fanou, e´vaho. - - Children’s _language_ Father O´pucen_oo_, _and_ - Papa. - - Children’s _language_ Mother E´wh_ei_arre, _and_ - O´pa´tëa. - - Children’s _language_ Brother E´tama. - - Children’s _language_ Sister Te´t_oo_a. - - _The_ Chin, _and lower jaw_ E´t_aa_. - - Choked, _to be choked as with victuals, &c._ Ep_oo_´n_ei_na, s. - Er_oo_´y. - - _To_ choose, _or pick out_ Eh_ee_e,te,me,my,ty. - - Circumcision, _or rather an incision of the - foreskin_ E_oo_re te´h_ai_. - - _A sort of_ Clappers _used at funerals_ Par´ha_oo_. - - Clapping _the bend of the arm smartly with the - hand, so as make a noise, an Indian custom_ E´t_oo_. - - _The_ Claw, _of a bird_ A´_ee_ _oo_. - - Clay, _or clammy earth_ Ewh_ou_, arra. - - Clean, _not nasty_ _Oo_a´ma, s. E_oo_´ - _ee_. - - Clear, _pure; as clear water, &c._ Tëa´te. - - _White clayey_ Cliffs E´mammatëa. - - Close, _shut_ Eva´h_ee_. - - Cloth _of any kind, or rather the covering or - raiments made of it_ Ahoo. - - _A piece of oblong_ Cloth, _slit in the middle, - through which the head is put, and it then hangs - down behind and before_ Teeboota. - - _Brown thin_ Cloth _Oo_´er_ai_. - - _Dark brown_ Cloth Poo´h_ee_re. - - _Nankeen coloured_ Cloth A´h_ee_re, s. _Oo_a. - - _Gummed_ Cloth Oo´_ai_r ara. - - _Yellow_ Cloth Heappa, heappa, s. - A´ade, p_oo_´_ee_ - _ei_, s. Oora - poo´_ee_ _ei_. - - Cloth, _a piece of thin white cloth wrapt round Par_oo_´y, _by which - the waist, or thrown over the shoulders_ name they also call a - white shirt._ - - _A_ Cloth-beater, _or an oblong square piece of - wood grooved and used in making cloth_ To´aa. - - _The_ Cloth-plant, _a sort of Mulberry tree_ Ea_ou_te. - - _A_ Cloud E´äo, s. E´a_oo_. - - _A_ Cock Möa, e´töa. - - Cock, _the cock claps his wings_ Te Moa Pa_ee_, - pa_ee_. - - _A_ Cock-roach Potte potte. - - _A_ Cocoa nut _A_´r_ee_. - - _The fibrous husk of a_ Cocoa-nut P_oo_r_oo_´ waha, s. - P_oo_r_oo_. - - Cocoa-nut oil E´rede, äe. - - Cocoa leaves E,ne´ha_oo_. - - Coition E´y. - - _The sense of_ Cold Ma´r_ee_de. - - _A_ Comb P´ahoro, s. Pa´herre. - - Company, _acquaintance, gossips_ T_ee_´ÿa. - - Compliance _with a request, consent_ Mad_oo_, ho´why. - - Computation, _or counting of numbers_ Ta´t_ou_. - - _A_ Concubine Wa´h_ei_ne, Möebo, - s. Etoo´n_ee_a. - - Confusedness, _without order_ E´vah_ee_a. - - Consent, _or approbation_ Mad_oo_, ho´why. - - Contempt, _a name of contempt given to a maid, - or unmarried woman_ Wah_ei_ne, p_oo_´ha. - - Conversation Para_ou_, maro, s. - Para´para_ou_. - - _A sort of_ Convolvulus, _or bind weed, common in - the Islands_ O´h_oo_e. - - _Cooked, dressed; not raw_ Ee´_oo_, s. - E_ee_´wera. - - _To_ cool _one with a fan_ Taha´r_ee_. - - Cordage _of any kind_ Taura. - - _The_ Core _of an apple_ Böe. - - _A_ Cork, _or stopper of a bottle or gourd - shell_ Ora´h_oo_e. - - _A_ Corner E´pecho. - - Covering, _the covering of a fish’s gills_ Pe_ee_´eya. - - Covetousness, _or rather one not inclined to - give_ Pee,peere. - - _A_ Cough Ma´re. - - _To_ court, _woo a woman_ Ta´raro. - - Coyness _in a woman_ No´nöa. - - _A_ Crab Pappa. - - Crab, _a large land crab that climbs the - cocoa-nut trees for fruit_ E´_oo_wa. - - _A_ Crack, _cleft, or fissure_ Mot_oo_. - - Crammed, _lumbered, crowded_ Ooa _pee_a´pe, s. - Ehotto. - - _The_ Cramp Emo´t_oo_ t_oo_. - - _A_ Cray fish, O´_oo_ra. - - _To_ creep _on the hands and feet_ Ene´_ai_. - - Crimson _colour_ _Oo_ra _oo_ra. - - Cripple, _lame_ T_ei_´t_ei_. - - Crooked, _not straight_ _Oo_o´p_ee_o. - - _To_ crow _as a cock_ A´a _oo_a. - - _The_ Crown _of the head_ T_oo_´p_oo_e. - - _To_ cry, _or shed tears_ Ta_ee_. - - _A brown_ Cuckoo, _with black bars and a long - tail, frequent in the isles_ Ara´werewa. - - _To_ cuff, _or slap the chops_ E´par_oo_. - - Curlew, _a small curlew or whimbrel found about - the rivulets_ Torëa. - - Cut, or divided Mot_oo_. - - _To_ cut _the hair with scissars_ O´tee. - - - D - - _A_ Dance H_ee_va. - - Darkness Poee´r_ee_, s. - Po_oo_´r_ee_. - - _To_ darn O´ono. - - _A_ Daughter Ma´h_ei_ne. - - Day, _or day-light_ Mara´marama. s. - A´_ou_, s. A´a _ou_. - - Day-break Oota´tah_e_ita. - - Day, _to-day_ A_oo_´n_ai_. - - Dead Matte röa. - - _A natural_ Death Matte nöa. - - Deafness Ta´r_eea_, - t_oo_r_ee_. - - Decrepit Epoo´t_ooa_. - - Deep-water Mona´. - - _A_ Denial, _or refusal_ Eh_oo_´ nöa. - - _To_ desire, _or wish for a thing_ E_ooee_. - - _A_ Devil, _or evil spirit_ E´t_ee_. - - Dew Ahe´a_oo_. - - _A_ Diarrhœa, _or looseness_ Hawa, hawa. - - _To_ dip _meat in salt water instead of salt_ - (_an Indian custom_) Faw_ee_´wo. - - Dirt, _or nastiness of any kind_ E´repo. - - Disapprobation Eh_oo_nöa. - - _A_ Disease, _where the head cannot be held up, - perhaps the palsy_ E´p_ee_. - - _To_ disengage, _untie or loosen_ Ea_oo_´w_ai_. - - Dishonesty E_ee_´a. - - Displeased, _to be displeased, vexed, or in the - dumps_ Ta_ee_´va. - - Dissatisfaction, _to grumble, or be dissatisfied_ Fa_oo_´one. - - Distant, _far off_ Röa. - - _To_ distort, _or wreath the limbs, body, lips, - &c._ Faee´ta. - - _To_ distribute, _divide or share out_ At_oo_´ha. - - _A_ District Mat_ei_´na. - - _A_ Ditch Eö´h_oo_. - - _To_ dive _under water_ Eho´p_oo_. - - _A_ Dog _Oo_r_ee_. - - _A_ Doll _made of cocoa-plats_ Ad_oo_´a. - - _A_ Dolphin A´_ou_na. - - Done, _have done; or that is enough, or there is - no more_ A´teera. - - _A_ Door _Oo_´b_oo_ta. - - Double, _or when two things are in one; as a - double canoe_ Tau´r_oo_a. - - Down, _or soft hair_ E´waou. - - _To_ draw _a bow_ Etëa. - - _To_ draw, _or drag a thing by force_ Era´ko. - - Dread, _or fear_ Mattou. - - Dress’d, _or cook’d, not raw_ Ee´_oo_. - - _A head_ Dress, _used at funerals_ Pa´ra_ee_. - - _To_ dress, _or put on the clothes_ _Eu_, hau´ho_oo_ - t´Ahoo. - - _To_ drink A_ee_´n_oo_. - - Drop, _a single drop of any liquid_ _Oo_, ata´hai. - - _To_ drop, _or leak_ Eto´t_oo_r_oo_, s. - E´t_oo_r_oo_. - - Drops, _as drops of rain_ To´potta. - - Drowned Parre´mo. - - _A_ Drum Pa´h_oo_. - - Dry, _not wet_ _Oo_´maro. - - _A_ Duck Mora. - - _A_ Dug, _teat, or nipple_ E_oo_. - - Dumbness E´faö. - - - E - - _The_ Ear Ta´r_ee_a. - - _The inside of the_ Ear Ta´toor_ee_. - - _An_ Ear-ring Poe note tar_ee_a. - - _To_ eat, _or chew_ E´y, s. Mäa. - - _An_ Echinus, _or sea egg_ Heawy. - - Echo T_oo_o. - - _An_ egg _of a bird_ Ehooero te Man_oo_. - - _A white_ Egg bird Pee´ry. - - Eight A´waroo. - - _The_ Elbow T_oo_´r_ee_. - - Empty Ooata´aö, s. - Tata´_oo_a. - - _An_ Enemy Taata´e. - - Entire, _whole, not broke_ Eta, Eta. - - Equal _Oo_hy´t_ei_. - - Erect, _upright_ Et_oo_. - - _A_ Euphorbium _tree, with white flowers_ Te´too_ee_. - - _The_ Evening Ooh_oi_´h_oi_. - - Excrement T_oo_´ty. - - _To_ expand, _or spread out cloth, &c._ Ho´hora. - - _The_ Eye Matta. - - _The_ Eye-brow, _and eye-lid_ T_oo_a, matta. - - - F - - _The_ Face E´mo_teea_. - - _To hide or hold the_ Face _away, as when - ashamed_ Far_ee_´wa_i_. - - Facetious, _merry_ Faatta atta. - - Fainting, _to faint_ Möe, mo´my. - - _To_ fall _down_ Topa. - - False, _not true_ Ha´warre. - - _A_ Fan, _or to fan the face, or cool it_ Taha´r_ee_. - - _To_ fart, _or a fart_ Eh_oo_. - - Fat, _full of flesh, lusty_ P_ee_a. - - _The_ Fat _of meat_ Ma_ee_. - - _A_ Father Med_oo_a tanne. - - _A step-_father Tanne, te höa. - - Fatigued, _tired_ E´h_eieu_, s. Faea. - - Fear Mattou. - - _A_ Feather, _or quill_ H_oo_r_oo_, - h_oo_r_oo_ man_oo_. - - _Red_ Feathers Ora, h_oo_r_oo_ te - man_oo_. - - Feebleness, _weakness_ Fara´ra, s. - Tooro´r_ee_. - - _The sense of_ Feeling Fa´fa. - - _To_ feel Tear´ro. - - _A young, clever, dexterous_ Fellow, _or boy_ Te´my de pa´ar_ee_. - - _The_ Female _kind of any animal_ E´_oo_ha. - - _The_ Fern-tree Ma´mo_oo_. - - Fertile _land_ Fen_oo_a, maa. - - Fetch, _go fetch it_ Atee. - - Few _in number_ Eote. - - _To_ fight E´neotto. - - _A_ Fillip, _with the fingers_ Epatta. - - _The_ Fin _of a fish_ Tirra. - - _To_ finish _or make an end_ Eiote. - - _A_ Finger E´r_ee_ma. - - Fire Ea´hai. - - _A flying_ Fish Mara´ra. - - _A green flat_ Fish E_eu_me. - - _A yellow flat_ Fish _Oo_´morehe. - - _A flat green and red_ Fish P_ai_´_ou_. - - _The cuckold_ Fish Etata. - - _A_ Fish _E_ya. - - Fishing _wall for hauling the seine at the first - point_ Epa. - - _A_ Fish _pot_ E´wha. - - _A long_ Fishing _rod of Bamboo, used to catch - bonettoes, &c._ Ma´k_ee_ra. - - _A_ Fissure, _or crack_ Motoo. - - Fist, _to open the fist_ Ma´hora. - - Fist, _striking with the fist in dancing_ A´moto. - - _A flie_ Flapper, _or to flap flies_ Dah_ee_´ere - e´r_eu_pa. - - Flatness, _applied to a nose, or a vessel broad - and flat; also a spreading flat-topt tree_ Papa. - - _A red_ Flesh _mark_ E_ee_´da. - - _To_ float _on the face of the water_ Pa´noo. - - _The_ Flower, _of a plant_ P_oo_a. - - _Open_ Flowers T_ee_arre´_oo_ wa. - - Flowers, _white odoriferous flowers used as - ornaments in the ears_ T_ee_arre tarr_ee_a. - - Flown, _it is flown, or gone away_ Ma h_ou_ta. - - _A_ Flute W_ee_wo. - - _A black_ Fly-catcher, _a bird so called_ O´mamäo. - - _A_ Fly P_oo_re´h_oo_a. - - _To_ fly, _as a bird_ E´r_ai_re. - - Fog, _or mist_ Ry´po_eea_. - - _To_ fold _up a thing, as cloth, &c._ He´fet_oo_. - - _A_ fool, _scoundrel, or other epithet of - contempt_ Ta´_ou_na. - - _The_ Foot, _or sole of the foot_ Tapooy. - - _The_ Forehead E´ry. - - Forgot, _or lost in memory_ _Oo_´aro. - - Foul, _dirty, nasty_ Erepo. - - _A_ Fowl Möa. - - Four E´ha. - - _The_ Frapping _of a flute_ Ahëa. - - Freckles Taina. - - Fresh, _not salt_ Eanna, anna. - - Friction, _rubbing_ E´_oo_ _ee_. - - Friend, _a method of addressing a stranger_ Ehöa. - - _A particular_ Friend, _or the salutation to him_ E´apatte. - - _To_ frisk, _to wanton, to play_ Ehanne. - - From _there_ No, r_ei_ra, s. No, - r_ei_da. - - From _without_ No, waho´_oo_. - - From _before_ No, m_oo_a. - - Fruit ´Hoo´ero. - - _Perfume_ Fruit, _from Tethuroa, a small island_ Hooero te manoo. - - _A yellow_ Fruit, _like a large plumb, with a - rough core_ A´v_ee_. - - Full, _satisfied with eating_ Pÿa, s. _Oo_´pÿa, s. - Paÿa. - - _A_ Furunculus, _or a small hard boil_ Apoo. - - - G - - _A_ Garland _of flowers_ A´v_ou_t_oo_, s. - Ar_ou_too Efha, apai. - - Generosity, _benevolence_ Ho´röa. - - _A_ Gimblet Eho´_oo_. - - _A_ Girdle Ta´t_oo_a. - - _A_ Girl, _or young woman_ Too´n_ee_a. - - _A_ Girthing _manufacture_ Tat_oo_´y. - - _To_ give _a thing_ Höa´t_oo_. - - _A looking-_Glass H_ee_o´_ee_ota. - - _A_ Glutton, _or great eater_ Taata A´_ee_, s. - Era´pöa n_oo_e. - - _To_ go, _or move from where you stand; to walk_ Harre. - - _To_ go, _or leave a place_ Era´wa. - - Go, _begone, make haste and do it_ Haro. - - Go _and fetch it_ At_ee_. - - Good, _it is good, it is very well_ My´ty, s. Myty, tye, - s. Maytay. - - Good_-natured_ Mama´h_ou_, s. - Ma´r_oo_. - - _A_ Grandfather Too´b_oo_na. - - _A_ Great-grandfather Tooboona tahe´too. - - _A_ Great-great-grandfather Ouroo. - - _A_ Grandson Mo´b_oo_na. - - _To_ grasp _with the hand_ Hara´w_ai_. - - Grasping _the antagonist’s thigh when dancing_ Tomo. - - Grass, _used on the foots of their houses_ Ano´noho. - - _To_ grate _cocoa-nut kernel_ E´annatehea´r_ee_. - - Great, _large, big_ Ara´h_ai_. - - Green _colour_ P_oo_re, p_oo_re. - - _To_ groan Er_oo_, whe. - - _The_ groin Ta´pa. - - _To_ grow _as a plant, &c._ We´r_oo_a. - - _To_ grunt, _or strain_ Etee, t_oo_whe. - - _The blind_ Gut Ora´b_oo_b_oo_. - - _The_ Guts _of any animal_ A´a_oo_. - - - H - - _The_ Hair _of the head_ E´ror_oo_, s. - E´roh_oo_r_oo_. - - _Grey_ Hair Hinna´heina. - - _Red_ Hair, _or a red-headed man_ E´h_oo_. - - _Curled Hair_ P_ee_p_ee_. - - _Woolly or frizzled_ Hair Oë´töeto. - - _To pull the_ Hair E´w_ou_a. - - Hair, _tied on the crown of the head_ E´p_oo_te. - - Half _of any thing_ Fa´_ee_te. - - _A_ Hammer Et_ee_´te. - - Hammer _it out_ Atoo´bian_oo_. - - _The_ Hand E´r_ee_ma. - - _A deformed_ Hand P_ee_le´_oi_. - - _A motion with the_ Hand _in dancing_ O´ne o´ne. - - _A_ Harangue, _or speech_ Oraro. - - _A_ Harbour _or anchoring-place_ T_oo_´t_ou_. - - Hardness E´ta, e´ta. - - _A_ Hatchet, _axe, or adze_ Töe. - - He Nana. - - _The_ Head _Oo_po. - - _A shorn_ Head E´v_ou_a. - - _The_ Head-ache, _in consequence of Drunkenness_ Eana´n_ee_a. - - _The sense of_ Hearing Faro. - - _The_ Heart _of an animal_ A´h_ou_too. - - Heat, _warmth_ Mahanna, hanna. - - Heavy, _not light_ T_ei_ma´ha. - - _The sea_ Hedge-hog Totera. - - _A blue_ Heron Otoo. - - _A white_ Heron Tra´pappa. - - _To_ hew _with an axe_ Teraee. - - Hibiscus, _the smallest species of Hibiscus, with - rough seed cases, that adhere to the clothes in - walking_ P_ee_re, p_ee_re. - - Hibiscus, _a species of Hibiscus, with large - yellow flowers_ Po_oo_´r_ou_. - - _The_ Hiccup Et_oo_´_ee_, s. - E_oo_´wha. - - Hide, _to hide a thing_ Eh´_oo_na. - - High, _or steep_ Mato. - - _A_ Hill, _or mountain_ Ma_oo_, s. Ma_oo_´a, - s. M_ou_a. - - _One tree_ Hill, _a hill so called in Matavai - Bay_ Tal´ha. - - _To_ hinder, _or prevent_ Tapëa. - - _The_ Hips E´tohe. - - Hips, _the black punctuated part of the hips_ Tamo´r_ou_. - - _To_ hit _a mark_ Ele´ba_ou_, s. - Wa´p_oo_ta. - - Hiss, _to hiss, or hold out the finger at one_ T_ee_´he. - - Hoarseness Efäo. - - _A_ Hog Böa. - - _To_ hold _fast_ Mou. - - Hold _your tongue, be quiet, or silent_ Ma´m_oo_. - - _A_ Hole, _as a gimblet-hole in wood, &c._ E´r_oo_a, s. Poota. - - _To_ hollo, _or cry aloud to one_ T_oo_´o. - - _To keep at_ home Ate´_ei_ te Efarre. - - Honesty Eea´_ou_re. - - _A fish_ Hook Ma´_tau_. - - _A fish_ hook _of a particular sort_ W_ee_te, w_ee_te. - - _The_ Horizon E´pa_ee_ no t´ - Era_ee_. - - Hot, _or sultry air, it is very hot_ Poh_ee_´a. - - _A_ House E´farre, s. E´wharre. - - _A_ House _of office_ Eha´m_oo_te. - - _A large_ House Efarre´pota. - - _A_ House _on props_ A´whatta. - - _An industrious_ House-wife Ma´h_ei_ne Am_au_ - hattoi. - - How _do you, or how is it with you_ Te´hanoöe. - - Humorous, _droll, merry_ Fa, atta, ´atta. - - Hunger Poro´r_ee_, s. - Po_ee_´a. - - _A_ Hut, _or house_ E´farre. - - - I - - I, _myself, 1st person singular_ ^1W_ou_ ^2M_ee_. - - _The lower_ Jaw E´ta. - - Idle, _or lazy_ T_ee_´py. - - Jealousy _in a woman_ Ta b_oo_ne, s. - Fateeno, s. H_oo_´hy. - - Ignorance, _stupidity_ W_ee_a´ta. - - Ill-natured, _cross_ O_o_re, e´_ee_ore. - - _An_ Image _of a human figure_ E´tee. - - Imps, _the young imps_ Tëo´he. - - Immature, _unripe, as unripe fruit_ Poo. - - Immediately, _instantly_ To´hyto. - - Immense, _very large_ Röa. - - Incest, _or incestuous_ Ta´wytte. - - Indigent, _poor, necessitous_ T_ee_, t_ee_. - - Indolence, _laziness_ T_ee_´py. - - Industry, _opposed to idleness_ Ta_ee_´a. - - Inhospitable, _ungenerous_ P_ee_´p_ee_re. - - _To_ inform E´whäe. - - _A sort of_ Ink, _used to punctuate_ E´rah_oo_. - - _An_ inquisitive _tattling woman_ Maheine Opatai_ee_hu. - - _To_ interrogate, _or ask questions_ Faeete. - - _To_ invert, _or turn upside down_ E´h_oo_ra, tela´why. - - _An_ Islet Mo´too. - - _The_ Itch, _an itching of any sort_ Myro. - - _To_ jump, _or leap_ Mah_ou_ta, s. Araire. - - - K - - Keep _it to yourself_ V_ai_h_ee_´o. - - _The_ Kernel _of a cocoa-nut_ Emo´t_ee_a. - - _To_ kick _with the foot_ Ta´h_ee_. - - _The_ Kidneys F_oo_a´h_oo_a. - - Killed, _dead_ Matte. - - _To_ kindle, _or light up_ Emäa. - - _A_ King Eär_ee_,da´h_ai_. - - _A_ King-fisher, _the bird so called_ E´r_oo_ro. - - _To_ kiss E´ho_ee_. - - Kite, _a boy’s play-kite_ O´omo. - - _The_ Knee E´t_oo_r_ee_. - - _To_ kneel T_oo_´t_oo_r_ee_. - - _A_ Knot Ta´pona. - - _A double_ Knot Va´hod_oo_. - - _The female_ Knot _formed on the upper part of the - garment, and on one side_ T_ee_bona. - - _To_ know, _or understand_ E_e_te. - - _The_ Knuckle, _or joint of the fingers_ T_ee_,p_oo_. - - - L - - _To_ labour, _or work_ Ehëa. - - _A_ Ladder Era´a, s. E´ara. - - _A_ Lagoon Ewha´_ou_na, s. - Eä´_ou_na. - - Lame, _cripple_ T_ei_´t_ei_. - - _A_ Lance, _or spear_ Täo. - - Land, _in general a country_ Fe´n_oo_a, s. - Whe´n_oo_a. - - Language, _speech, words_ Pa´ra_ou_. - - Language, _used when dancing_ Timora´d_ee_, - te´Timoro´d_ee_. - - Large, _great, not small_ Ara´h_ai_. - - Largeness, _when applied to a country, &c._ N_oo_e. - - _To_ laugh Atta. - - Laziness T_ee_´py. - - Lean, _the lean of meat_ Aëo. - - Lean, _slender, not fleshy_ T_oo_´h_ai_. - - _To_ leap Ma´h_ou_ta, s. - A´rere. - - Leave _it behind, let it remain_ ´V_ai_nëo. - - _To_ leave E´wh_eeoo_. - - _The_ Leg A´wy. - - Legs, _my legs ache, or are tired_ A´h_oo_a. - - _A_ Liar Taata,ha´warre. - - _To_ lie _down, or along, to rest one’s self_ Ete´raha, s. - Te´_poo_. - - _To_ lift _a thing up_ Era´w_ai_. - - _Day_ Light Mara´marama. - - Light, _or fire of the great people_ T_ou_t_oi_,papa. - - Light, _or fire of the common people_ N_ee_äo,papa. - - Light, _to light or kindle the fire_ A´t_oo_n_oo_ t´ - E_ee_´wera. - - Light, _not heavy_ Ma´ma. - - Lightning _Oo_´w_ai_ra. - - _The_ Lips _Oo_´t_oo_. - - Little, _small_ _Ee_te. - - _A_ Lizard Mö´o. - - Loathsome, _nauseous_ ´E,a´wawa. - - _A sort of_ Lobster, _frequent in the isles_ T_ee_´on_ai_. - - _To_ loll _about, or be lazy_ Tee´py. - - _To_ loll _out the tongue_ Ewha´tor_oo_ t´ - Arere. - - _To_ look _for a thing that is lost_ Tap_oo_n_ee_. - - _A_ Looking-glass H_ee_o´_ee_´otta. - - Loose, _not secure_ A_oo_´w_ee_wa. - - _A_ Looseness, _or purging_ Hawa,´hawa. - - _To_ love Ehe´nar_oo_. - - _A_ Lover, _courtier, wooer_ Eh_oo_´nöa. - - _A_ Louse _Oo_´t_oo_. - - Low, _not high, as low land, &c._ Hëa,hëa, s. Papoo, s. - E_ee_´öa. - - _The_ Lungs T_ee_too,arapoa. - - Lusty, _fat, full of flesh_ Oo´p_ee_a. - - - M - - Maggots E´h_oo_h_oo_. - - _A_ Maid, _or young woman_ T_oo_´n_ea_. - - _To_ make _the bed_ _H_o´hora, te - Mö_e_´ya. - - _The_ Male _of any animal, male kind_ E´töa. - - _A_ Man Täata, s. Taane. - - _An ill-disposed, or insincere_ Man Täata,ham´an_ee_n_o_. - - _A_ Man _of war bird_ Otta´ha. - - Many, _a great number_ Wo´rou, wo´rou, s. - man_oo_, man_oo_. - - _A black_ Mark _on the skin_ E´_ee_r_ee_. - - Married, _as a married man_ Fan_ou_´nou. - - _A_ Mat E´vanne. - - _A silky kind of_ Mat Möe´a. - - _A rough sort of_ Mat, _cut in the middle to - admit the head_ P_oo_´rou. - - _A_ Mast _of a ship or boat_ T_ee_ra. - - Mature, _ripe; as ripe fruit_ Para, s. Pe. - - Me, _I_ W_ou_, s. M_ee_. - - _A_ Measure E´a. - - _To_ measure _a thing_ Fa´_ee_te. - - _To_ meet _one_ Ewharidde. - - _To_ melt, _or dissolve a thing, as grease, &c._ T_oo_´t_oo_e. - - _The_ Middle, _or midst of a thing_ Teropoo. - - Midnight O´t_oo_ra,h_ei_´po. - - _To_ mince, _or cut small_ E´p_oo_ta. - - Mine, _it is mine, or belongs to me_ No´_oo_. - - _To_ miss, _not to hit a thing_ _Oo_´happa. - - Mist, _or fog_ Ry´po_ee_a. - - _To_ mix _things together_ A´p_oo_e,p_oo_e. - - _To_ mock, _or scoff at one_ Etoo´h_ee_. - - Modesty Mamma´,ha_oo_. - - Moist, _wet_ Wara´r_ee_. - - _A_ Mole _upon the skin_ At_oo_´nöa. - - _A lunar_ Month, Mara´ma. - - _A_ Monument, _to the dead_ Whatta´r_au_. - - _The_ Moon Mara´ma. - - _The_ Morning Oo´po_ee_´po_ee_. - - _To-_morrow Bo´bo, s. A, Bo´bo. - - _The day after to-_morrow A´bo´bo d_oo_ra. - - _The second day after to-_morrow Po_ee_, po_ee_, - addoo. - - _A_ Moth E,pepe. - - _A_ Mother Ma´d_oo_a, wa´, - h_ei_ne. - - _A_ motherly, _or elderly woman_ Pa´tëa. - - Motion, _opposed to rest_ _Oo_´ata. - - _A_ Mountain, _or hill_ Ma_oo_a, s. M_ou_a. - - Mountains _of the highest order_ M_ou_a tei´tei. - - ---- ---- ---- _second order_ M_ou_a ´haha. - - ---- ---- ---- _third or lowest order_ Pere´ra_ou_. - - Mourning _Ee_va. - - Mourning _leaves_, viz. _Those of the cocoa-tree - used for that purpose_ Ta´pa_oo_. - - _The_ Mouth Eva´ha. - - _To open the_ Mouth Ha´mamma. - - _A_ Multitude, _or vast number_ Wo´r_ou_, wo´r_ou_. - - Murdered, _killed_ Matte, s. Matte röa. - - _A_ Murderer Taata töa. - - _A_ Muscle_-shell_ N_ou_,_ou_. - - Music _of any kind_ H_ee_va. - - _A_ Musket, _pistol or fire-arm of any kind_ P_oo_,p_oo_, s. Poo. - - Mute, _silent_ Fateb_oo_a. - - _To_ mutter, _or stammer_ E´wha_o_a. - - - N - - _The_ Nail _of the fingers_ A_ee_´_oo_. - - _A_ Nail _of iron_ _Eu_re. - - Naked, _i. e._ _with the clothes off, undressed_ Ta´turra. - - _The_ Name _of a thing_ E_ee´oa_. - - Narrow, _strait, not wide_ P_ee_re,p_ee_re. - - Nasty, _dirty, not clean_ E,repo. - - _A_ Native Taata´toob_oo_. - - _The_ Neck A´_ee_. - - Needles Nareeda. - - _A fishing_ Net _Oo_´p_ai_a. - - New, _young, sound_ H_ou_. - - Nigh Poto, s. Whatta´ta. - - Night Po, s. E´a_oo_. - - _To-_Night, _or to-day at night_ A´_oo_ne te´ Po. - - _Black_ Night_-shade_ Oporo. - - Nine A´_ee_va. - - _The_ Nipple _of the breast_ E´_oo_. - - _A_ Nit Eriha. - - No, _a negation_ ^1Ay´ma, ^2Y_ai_ha, - ^3A´_ou_re, ^4A_ee_, - ^5Yeha_ee_a. - - _To_ nod A´t_ouou_. - - Noisy, _chattering, impertinent_ E´moo. - - Noon Wawa´tea. - - _The_ Nostrils Popo´hëo. - - Numeration, _or counting of numbers_ Ta´t_ou_. - - _A cocoa_ Nut Aree. - - _A large compressed_ Nut, _that tastes like - chesnuts when roasted_ E_ee_h_ee_. - - - O - - Obesity, _corpulence_ _Oo_´p_ee_a. - - _The_ Ocean Ty, s. Meede. - - Odoriferous, _sweet smelled_ No´nöa. - - _Perfumed_ Oil _they put on the hair_ Mo´nöe. - - _An_ Ointment _plaister, or any thing that heals - or relates to medicine_ E´ra´pa_oo_. - - Old Ora´wheva. - - One A´tahai. - - Open, _clear, spacious_ Ea´tëa. - - Open, _not shut_ Fe´r_ei_. - - _To_ open Te´had´doo. - - Opposite _to, or over against_ Watoo´wh_ei_tte. - - Order, _in good order, regular, without confusion_ Wara´wara. - - Ornament, _any ornament for the ear_ T_ooee_ ta´r_ee_a. - - _Burial_ Ornaments, _viz. nine noits stuck in the - ground_ Ma´ray Wharre. - - _An_ Orphan _Oo_´hoppe, - poo´_ai_a. - - Out, _not in, not within_ T_ei_we´ho. - - _The_ Outside _of a thing_ _Oo_a´p_ee_. - - _An_ Oven _in the ground_ E_oo_m_oo_. - - Over, _besides more than the quantity_ Te´harra. - - _To_ overcome, _or conquer_ E´ma´_oo_ma. - - _To_ overturn, _or overset_ Eha´pa_oo_. - - _An_ Owner E´whattoo. - - _A large species of_ Oyster I´t_ee_a. - - _The large rough_ Oyster, _or Spondylus_ Paho´öa. - - - P - - _The_ Paddle _of a canoe, or to paddle_ E´höe. - - _To_ paddle _a canoe’s head to the right_ Wha´tëa. - - _To_ paddle _a canoe’s head to the left_ Wemma. - - Pain, _or soreness, the sense of pain_ Ma´my. - - _A_ Pair, _or two of any thing together_ Ano´ho. - - _The_ Palate E´ta´nea. - - _The_ Palm _of the hand_ Ap_oo_´r_ee_ma. - - _To_ pant, _or breathe quickly_ Oo´pou´pou, tëa´ho. - - Pap, _or child’s food_ Mamma. - - _A_ Parent Me´d_oo_a. - - _A small blue_ Parroquet E´v_ee_n_ee_. - - _A green_ Parroquet, _with a red forehead_ E´a´a. - - _The_ Part _below the tongue_ Eta´raro. - - _A_ Partition, _division of screen_ Par_oo_´r_oo_. - - _A_ Pass, _or strait_ E,aree´ëa. - - _A fermented_ Paste _of bread, fruit, &c._ Ma´h_ee_. - - _A_ Path, _or road_ Eä´ra. - - _The_ Pavement _before a house or hut_ Pÿe,pye. - - _A_ Pearl Pöe. - - _The_ Peduncle, _and stalk of a plant_ A´mäa, s. E´atta. - - _To_ peel, _or take the skin off a cocoa-nut, &c._ A´tee, s. E´atee. - - Peeled, _it is peeled_ Me´at_ee_. - - _A_ Peg _to hang a bag on_ Te´a_oo_. - - _A_ Pepper-plant, _from the root of which they - prepare an inebriating liquor_ Awa. - - Perhaps, _it may be so_ E´pa´ha. - - Persons _of distinction_ Patoo´nehe. - - _A_ Petticoat _of plantane leaves_ Arou´m_aiee_a. - - Petty, _small, trifling, opposed to N_oo_e_ _Ree_. - - _A_ Physician, _or a person who attends the sick_ Taata no E´rapa_oo_. - - Pick, _to pick or choose_ Eh_ee_ te m_ai_ my - ty. - - _A large wood_ Pigeon Er_oope_. - - _A small green and white_ Pigeon _Oo_´_oo_pa. - - _A small black and white_ Pigeon, _with purple - wings_ _Oooo_wy´der_oo_. - - _A_ Pimple H_oo_a´h_ou_a. - - _To_ pinch _with the fingers_ _Oo_ma. - - _A_ Plain, _or flat_ E´p_ee_ho. - - Plane, _smooth_ Pa´_ee_a. - - _A_ Plant _of any kind_ O´mo. - - _A small_ Plant Era´bo. - - _The fruit of the_ Plantane-tree M_aiee_´a, s. Maya. - - _Horse_ Plantanes F_ai_´_ee_. - - Pleased, _good-humoured, not cross or surly_ Mar_oo_. - - Pluck _it up_ Ar_ee_te. - - _To_ pluck _hairs from the beard_ H_oo_h_oo_tee. - - _To_ plunge _a thing in the water_ E,_oo_´wh_ee_. - - _The_ Point _of any thing_ Oë,öo, or _Oi_,_oi_. - - Poison, _bitter_ Awa,awa. - - _A_ Poll _Oo_ra´h_oo_. - - Poor, _indigent, not rich_ T_ee_´t_ee_. - - _A bottle-nosed_ Porpoise E´_ou_a. - - _Sweet_ Potatoes _Oo_´marra. - - _To_ pour _out any liquid substance_ Ma´n_ee_. - - Pregnant, _with young_ Waha´p_oo_. - - _To_ press, _or squeeze the legs gently with the - hand, when tired or pained_ Roro´m_ee_. - - Prick, _to prick up the ears_ Eoma te ta´r_ee_a. - - _A_ Priest Ta´h_ou_a. - - Prone, _or face downwards_ T_ee_´opa. - - _A sort of_ Pudding, _made of fruits, oil, &c._ Po´po´_ee_. - - Pumpkins A´h_ooa_. - - _To_ puke, _or vomit_ E´awa, s. e´r_oo_´y. - - Pure, _clear_ E´_oo_´_ee_. - - _A_ Purging, _or looseness_ Hawa,hawa. - - _To_ pursue, _and catch a person who has done some Er_oo_,Er_oo_, s. - mischief_ Eha´r_oo_. - - _To_ push _a thing with the hand_ T_oo_´ra_ee_. - - Put _it up, or away_ Orno. - - - Q - - Quickness, _briskness_ E´tirre. - - _To walk_ quickly Harre´n_ei_na. - - Quietness, _silence, a silent or seemingly - thoughtful person_ Falle´b_oo_a. - - _A_ Quiver _for holding arrows_ ´P_ee_ha. - - - R - - _A small black_ Rail, _with red eyes_ M_ai_´ho. - - _A small black_ Rail, _spotted and burred with - white_ P_oo_a´n_ee_. - - Rain E´_oo_a. - - _A_ Rainbow E´n_oo_a. - - Raft, _a raft of bamboo_ M_ai_to´e. - - Rank, _strong, urinous_ Ewäo wao. - - _A_ Rasp, _or file_ _Ooee_. - - _A_ Rat ´Yor_ee_, s. Eyore. - - Raw _meat, flesh that is not dressed or cooked_ E´otta. - - Raw _fruit, as plantanes, &c. that are not baked_ Paroure. - - _To_ recline, _or lean upon a thing_ E´py. - - Red _colour_ _Oo_ra,_oo_ra, s. - Matde. - - _To_ reef _a sail_ E´po´uie te rya. - - _A_ Refusal Eh_oo_´noöa. - - _The_ Remainder _of any thing_ T,´Ewah_ei_. - - _To_ rend, _burst, or split_ M_oo_´m_oo_m_oo_. - - Rent, _cracked, or torn_ E´wha. - - _To_ reside, _live, or dwell_ E´noho. - - Respiration, _breathing_ _Too_e, t_oo_e. - - _A_ Rib A´wäo. - - Rich, _not poor, having plenty of goods, &c._ Epo´too. - - _A_ Ring ´M_ai_no. - - _The_ Ringworm, _a disease so called_ E´n_oo_a. - - Ripe, _as ripe fruit, &c._ Para, s. Pai, s. Ooo - p_ai_. - - Rise, _to rise up_ A´too. - - _To_ rive, _or split_ Ewha_oo_´wha_oo_. - - _A_ Road, _or path_ Eä´ra. - - Roasted, _or broiled_ _Oo_a´w_ai_ra. - - _A_ Robber, _or thief_ E_ee_´a (taata. - - _A_ Rock Pa_oo_. - - _A reef of_ Rocks E´a_ou_. - - Rolling, _the rolling of ship_ T_oo_´r_oo_r_e_. - - _A_ Root Ap_oe_, s. E´a. - - _A_ Rope _of any kind_ Taura. - - Rotten, _as rotten fruit, &c._ R_oo_pe. - - Rough, _not smooth_ Ta´rra, tarra. - - _To_ row _with oars_ E´_oo_me, s. E´höe. - - _To_ rub _a thing, as in washing the hands and - face_ Ho´ro_ee_. - - _The_ Rudder _of a boat, or steering paddle of a - canoe_ Höe, fa´herre. - - Running _backwards and forwards, endeavouring to - escape_ Oo´atapone. - - - S - - _The_ Sail _of a ship or boat_ E_ee_´_aia_. - - _To_ sail, _or to be under sail_ E´whano. - - Salt, _or salt-water_ Ty´ty, s. Meede. - - Sand, _dust_ E´one. - - Saturn Whati´hëa. - - Saunders_´s island_ Tab_oo_a, Manoo. - - _A_ Saw E_ee_´oo. - - _A_ Scab E´tona. - - _A fish’s_ Scale, _or scales_ Pöa. - - _A pair of_ Scissars O´t_oo_bo, s. - O´tob_oo_. - - _A_ Scoop _to empty water from a canoe_ E´tata. - - _To_ scrape _a thing_ _Oo_´a_oo_. - - _To_ scratch _with the fingers_ Era´ra_oo_. - - Scratched, _a scratched, metal, &c._ Pah_oo_re´h_oo_re. - - _The_ Sea-cat, _a fish so called_ P_oo_he. - - _The_ Sea Ta_ee_, s. M_ee_de. - - _A_ Sea-egg He´awy. - - _A_ Seam _between two planks_ Fatoo´wh_ai_ra. - - _To_ search _for a thing that is lost_ Oö, s. Päe´m_ee_. - - _A_ Seat Papa. - - Secret, _a secret whispering or slandering - another_ Ohe´m_oo_. - - _The_ Seed _of a plant_ H_oo_a´t_oo_t_oo_, s. - Ehooero. - - _The sense of_ Seeing E´h_ee_´o. - - _To_ send Eho´pöe. - - _A_ Sepulchre, _or burying-place_ Ma´ray. - - _A_ Servant T_ow_t_ow_. - - Seven A´H_ee_t_oo_. - - _To_ sew, _or string_ E´t_oo_e. - - Seyne, _to haul a seyne_ Etoroo te p_ai_a. - - Shady Maroo,maroo. - - _To_ shake, _or agitate a thing_ E_oo_a´wai. - - _A_ Shark Mäo. - - Sharp, _not blunt_ Oö´ëe. - - _To_ shave, _or take off the beard_ Eva´r_oo_, s. Whanne, - whanne. - - _A small_ Shell Ote´o. - - _A tyger_ Shell Pore´h_oo_. - - Shew _it me_ Enara. - - _A_ Ship Pahee. - - Ship-wreck Ara´wha. - - _A white_ Shirt Par_oo_´y. - - _To_ shiver _with cold_ A´tete. - - _Mud_ Shoes, _or fishing shoes_ Tama. - - _The_ Shore Euta. - - Short Po´potoo. - - Shut, _not open_ Opa´n_ee_, s. - P_oo_´peepe. - - Sickness Matte my Mamy. - - _The left_ Side A´r_oo_de. - - _The_ Side E´reea´wo. - - _The right_ Side Atou,a´taou. - - Sighing Fa´ëa. - - Silence Fatte´b_oo_a. - - Similar, _or alike_ _Oo_whyä´da. - - _To_ sink A´tomo. - - _A_ Sister T_oo_´h_ei_ne. - - _To_ sit _down_ A´noho. - - _To_ sit _cross-legged_ T_ee_´py. - - Six A´Hon_oo_. - - _A_ Skate-fish E´wha_ee_. - - _The_ Skin _Ee_´ree. - - _The_ Sky E´ra_ee_. - - _To_ sleep Möe. - - _The long_ Sleep, _or death_ Möe röa. - - _To_ sleep, _when sitting_ T_oo_´roore,möe. - - _A_ Sling E´ma. - - Slow Marra,marröa, s. - Fata. - - Small, _little_ _Eet_e. - - _The sense of_ Smelling Fata´t_oo_, s. - _Oo_too,too. - - Smell _it_ H_oi_na. - - _To_ smell Ahe´_oi_. - - Smoke E´_oo_ra. - - Smooth Pa´ya. - - Smutting _the face with charcoal for funeral - ceremonies_ Bap´para. - - _A sea_ Snake, _that has alternate rings of a - white and black colour_ P_oo_h_ee_´ar_oo_. - - _To_ snatch _a thing hastily_ E´h_ai_r_oo_. - - Sneezing Mach_ee_´_ai_. - - Snipe, _a bird resembling a snipe, of a black and - brown colour_ T_ee_´t_ee_. - - Snot ´H_oo_pe. - - Soberness, _sobriety, sober, not given to - drunkenness_ T_ei_r_ei_da. - - _To_ soften Epar_oo_´par_oo_. - - Softness, _that is not hard_ Maroo. - - _The_ Sole _of the foot_ Tap_oo_´y. - - _A_ Son My´de. - - _A_ Son_-in-law_ H_oo_´nöa. - - _A_ Song Heeva. - - _A_ Sore, _or ulcer_ O´pai. - - Soreness, _or pain_ Ma´may. - - Sound, _any sound that strikes the ear_ Pa´_ee_na. - - _A_ Span Ewhäe´ono. - - _To_ speak Paraou. - - Speak; _he speaks not from the heart, his words Neeate _oo_t_oo_ te - are only on his lips_ parou no nona. - - _A_ Spear, _or lance_ Täo. - - _To_ spill Emare. - - _To_ spit Too´t_oo_a. - - _To_ spread, _or to expand a thing, as cloth &c._ Hoho´ra. - - _To_ squeeze _or press hard_ Ne-ne_ee_. - - _To_ squeeze _or press gently with the hand_ Roro´m_ee_. - - Squint_-eyed_. Matta´areva. - - _A fighting_ Stage _in a boat_ E´t_oo_t_ee_. - - _To_ stamp _with the feet, to trample on a thing_ Tata´hy. - - Stand _up_ Atëarenona. - - _A_ Star E´f_ai_too, s. - Hwettoo. - - _A_ Star-fish Eve´r_ee_. - - _To_ startle, _as when one dreams_ Wa´hee,te´dirre. - - Stay, _or wait a little_ A´r_ee_a, s. - Ar_ee_´ana. - - _To_ steal ´Woreedo. - - Steep, _as steep rocks or cliffs_ Mato. - - _A walking_ Stick Tame. - - Stinking, _ill smelled, as stinking water, &c._ Na´m_oo_a, s. N_ee_´ - n_ee_o. - - Stink, _to stink or smell ill_ F_ou_, f_ou_. - - _To_ stink, _as excrement_ P_ee_ro, p_ee_ro. - - _The_ Stomach ´Para_ee_´ä. - - _A_ Stone Owhay. - - _A polished_ Stone, _used to beat victuals into a - paste_ P_ai_n_oo_. - - Stones, _upright stones, which stand on the paved - area before huts_ T_oo_´t_oo_re. - - _A small_ Stool _to lay the head on when asleep_ Papa, s. Papa,r_oo_ä. - - Stool, _to go to stool_ T_ee_t_ee_´o. - - _To_ stop A´too. - - _The_ Stopper _of a quiver_ Ponau. - - _A_ Storm _of wind, rain, thunder, &c._ Tarooa. - - Strait, _narrow, not wide_ P_ee_re,peere. - - Striking, _hollow striking in dancing_ Ap_ee_. - - _The_ String _of a quiver_ E´aha. - - Strong, _as a strong man_ O´_o_mara. - - Stuck A´b_oo_l_a_. - - Stupidity, _ignorance_ W_ee_a´l_a_. - - _To_ suck _as a child_ Ote,ote. - - Sugar _cane_ E´To, s. Töo. - - Suicide Euha´a_ou_. - - Sultry, _or hot air_ Poh_ee_´_a_. - - _The_ Sun Mahanna, s. Era. - - _The meridian_ Sun T_ei_´n_ee_a te - Mahanna. - - Supine, _lying_ Fateeraha. - - Surf _of the sea_ Horo´w_ai_. - - _An interjection of_ Surprise, _or admiration_ Allaheuee´_ai_. - - _To_ surround A´b_oo_ne. - - _To_ swallow, Horo´m_ee_. - - _The_ Sweat _of the body, or to sweat_, E´h_ou_, s. Eh_ou_ - h_ou_. - - _A_ sweet _taste_ Mona. - - Swell _of the sea_ E´r_oo_. - - - T - - _A_ Tail Ero. - - _A_ Tail _of a bird_ E´hoppe. - - _To_ take _a friend by the hand_ Etoo´ya_oo_. - - _To_ take _off, or unloose_ Eve´vette. - - _To_ take _care of the victuals_ Ewhaapoo te maa. - - _To_ talk, _or converse_ Paraou. - - _The sense of_ Tasting Tama´ta. - - _A_ Tetotum, _or whirligig_ E´piöra. - - _To_ tear _a thing_ Ha´hy, s. Whatte. - - _A_ Teat, _or dug_ E´_oo_. - - _The_ Teeth E´n_ee_h_ee_o. - - Ten A´h_oo_r_oo_. - - _To_ tend, _or feed hogs_ Ewha_ee_ te Böa. - - Tenants Af_eu_´h_au_. - - _A black_ Tern, _with a whitish head_ O_ee_´o. - - There Te´raee. - - They, _them, or theirs_ To´ta_ooa_. - - Thickness, _applied to solid bodies_ M-oo´meoo. - - Thick, _as thick cloth, &c._ T_oo_e,too´e. - - Thick, _muddy_ Eworer´_oo_, s. - E´worepo. - - Thine, _it is yours, or belongs to you_ No öe. - - Thirst W´ah_ee_´y. - - Thoughts Para_ou_, no te - o´p_oo_. - - _An appearance of_ thoughtfulness Fate´b_oo_a. - - Three Tor_oo_. - - _The_ Throat Ara´poa. - - _To_ throw, _or heave a thing_ Taora. - - _To_ throw _a thing away_ Harre´wai. - - _To_ throw _a ball_ Ama´h_oo_a. - - _To_ throw _a lance_ Evara´towha. - - Throw, _shall I throw it_ Taure´a´a. - - Throwing _in dancing_ Hoe´aire. - - _The_ Thumb E´r_ee_ma,erahai. - - Thunder Pa´t_ee_re. - - Tickle, _to tickle a person_ My´n_ee_na. - - _A_ Tide, _or current_ A´ow. - - _To_ tie a _knot_ Ty. - - Time, _a space of time, from 6 to 10 at night_ O´t_oo_e,tee´po. - - Time, _a little time, a small space_ Popo´_eu_n_oo_. - - Time, _a long time, a great while_ Ta´moo. - - _A_ Title _belonging to a woman of rank_ E´tapay´r_oo_. - - _A_ Toe _of the foot_ Ma´n_ee_o. - - _A_ Tom T_oo_,pap´pou. - - _The_ Tongue E´rero. - - _A_ Tortoise E´hon_oo_. - - Touching Fa´fa. - - Tough, _as tough meat, &c._ Ah_oo_´_ou_e. - - _A_ Town E´farre p_oo_t_oo_ - p_oo_t_oo_. - - _To_ trample _with the foot_ Tata´he, s. Ta´ta´hy. - - _A_ Tree E´räo. - - _A_ Tree, _from which they make clubs, spears, - &c._ Töa (Eräo. - - _To_ tremble, _or shudder with cold_ _Oo_´atitte, s. Eta. - - Trembling, _shaking_ A_ou_´dou. - - _To_ trip _up one in wrestling_ Me´häe. - - _A_ Tropic-bird Man_oo_´röa. - - Truth Eva_ee_´röa, s. - Para_ou_, m_ou_. - - _To_ tumble P_ou_ta´heite. - - _A_ Turban E´täe. - - _To_ turn, _or turned_ _Oo_ä´höe. - - _To_ turn _about, as in walking backwards and - forwards_ H_oo_d_ee_p_ee_pe. - - Twins, _twin children_ Ma´hëa. - - _To_ twist _a rope_ Taw_ee_´r_ee_. - - Two E´R_oo_ä. - - - U - - _An_ Ulcer, _or sore_ O´p_ai_. - - Under, _below, low down_ Oraro. - - Under _sail_ P_ou_´pou_ee_. - - _To_ understand Ee´te. - - _To_ undress, _or take off the clothes_ Ta´turra. - - _An_ unmarried _person_ Ar_ee_´_oi_. - - Unripe, _as unripe fruit, &c._ P_oo_. - - - V - - _Luminous_ Vapour Epao. - - Vassal, _or subject_ Manna´h_ou_na. - - Vast Ara,h_ai_, s. - M_ai_,ara´h_ai_. - - _The_ Veins _that run under the skin_ E´w_ou_a. - - Venus T_ou_´r_oo_a. - - Vessel, _any hollow vessel, as cups of nuts, &c._ _Ai_´boo. - - Vessel, _a hollow vessel in which they prepare an - inebriating liquor_ _Oo_´mutte. - - _To_ vomit Er_oo_´y. - - - W - - Wad, _tow, fibres like hemp_ Tam_ou_. - - Wait, _stay a little_ Areeana. - - Wake, _awake_ Arra arra, s. Era. - - _To_ walk _out_ Avou´_oi_a. - - _To_ walk _backwards and forwards_ H_oo_a´p_ee_pe. - - _A_ Warrior, _soldier, or rather a man-killer_ Taatatöa. - - Warmth, _heat_ Mahanna,hanna. - - _A_ Wart Toria. - - _To_ wash, _as to wash cloth in water_ Mare. - - _To_ watch E´teäe. - - Water A´vy. - - Water-cresses Patöa. - - We, _both of us_ Ta_oo_a, s. - Ar_oo_´r_oo_a. - - _A_ Wedge Era´hei. - - _To_ weep, _or cry_ Ha nöa,a,ta_ee_. - - Well _recovered, or well escaped_ Woura, s. woo,ara - - Well, _it is well, charming, fine_ P_oo_ro´too. - - What, _what’s that_ E´hara, E´ha´rya, s. - Ye´ha_ee_a, - _expressed - inquisitively_. - - What _do you call that, what is the name of it_ Owy te a_ee´oa_. - - When, _at what time_ W´hëëa. - - Where _is it_ Te´hëa. - - Whet, _to whet or sharp a thing_ E´v_oee_. - - _To_ whistle Ma´p_oo_. - - Whistling, _a method of whistling to call the - people to meals_ Ep_ou_,maa. - - _To_ whisper _secretly, as in backbiting, &c._ Ohe´m_oo_. - - Who _is that, what is he called_ Owy,tanna, s. - Owy,nana. - - Whole, _the whole, not a part of a thing_ E´ta,e´tea, s. - A´ma_oo_. - - Wide, _not strait or narrow_ Whatta,whatta. - - _A_ Widow Wat_oo_neea. - - Wife, _my wife_ Ma´h_ei_ne. - - _The_ Wind Mattay. - - _The south-east_ Wind Mattaee. - - _A_ Window Ma´la_ee_ ou´panee. - - _The_ Wing _of a bird_ Ere´_ou_. - - _To_ wink E´am_ou_,am_oo_. - - _To_ wipe _a thing clean_ Ho´ro_ee_. - - Whish, _a whish to one who sneezes_ Eva´r_ou_a t - Eat_oo_a. - - Within _side_ T_ee_´ro to. - - _A_ Woman Wa´h_ei_ne. - - _A married_ Woman Wa´h_ei_ne m_ou_. - - Woman, _she is a married woman, she has got - another husband_ Terra,tanne. - - Won’t, _I won’t do it_ ´A_eeoo_, _expressed - angrily_. - - Wood _of any kind_ E´raö. - - _A_ Wound Oö´t_ee_. - - _A_ Wrestler M_ou_na. - - Wrinkled _in the face_ M_ee_o,m_ee_o. - - _The_ Wrist Mo´möa. - - _A_ Wry-neck Na´na. - - - Y - - _To_ yawn Ha´mamma. - - Yellow _colour_ He´appa. - - Yes Ay, s. _ai_. - - Yesterday Ninna´hay. - - Yesternight Ere´po. - - York _island_ _Ei_´mëo. - - You Oë. - - Young, _as a young animal of any kind_ P_ee_´n_ai_a. - - - - - END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME. - - - - - Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, - Printers Street, London. - - - - -A TABLE[21], exhibiting, at one View, SPECIMENS of different LANGUAGES, -spoken in the South Sea, from Easter Island, westward to New Caledonia, - as observed in the Voyage. - - - _English._ _Otaheite._ _Easter Island._ _The Marquesas _The Island _New Zealand._ _Malicollo._ _Tanna._ _New Caledonia._ - Isles._ Amsterdam._ - - _A Bird_, [22]´Man_oo_, ´Man_oo_, ´Man_oo_, Man_oo_, Man_ee_, s. - Man_ee_k. - - _A Bow_, E´fanna, ´Fanna, Na´brr_oo_s, Na´fanga. - - _Bread-fruit_, _Oo_r_oo_, M_aiee_, Ba´rabe, Tag´_oo_r_oo_. - - _A Canoe_, E´väa, ´Wagga, E´väa, Ta´wagga, ´Wang? - - _Cloth_, ´Ah_oo_, A´h_oo_, ´Ah_oo_, s. Babba´langa, Kak´ah_oo_, Ta´nar_ee_, Ham´ban. - A´h_ooee_a, - - _A Cocoa-nut_, ´Ar_ee_, ´_Eeoo_, Nar_oo_, Nab_oo_´y, ´N_eeoo_. - - _To drink_, ´Ayn_oo_, A_eenoo_, ´A_ee_n_oo_, No´a_ee_, ´N_ooee_, ´_Oo_d_oo_, s. - _Oo_nd_oo_. - - _The Eye_, Matta, Matta, ´Matta, s. ´Matta, ´Matta, M_ai_tang, Nan_ee_´m_a_iuk, T_ee_´v_ei_n. - Matta_ee_a, - - _The Ear_, Ta´r_ee_a, Ta´r_ee_an, B_oo_a´_ee_na, Ta´r_ee_ka, Talingan, F_ee_n_ee_´enguk, G_ai_n´_ee_ng. - - _Fish_, ´_E_ya, _Ee_ka, ´_Ee_ka, ´_Ee_ka, ´Nam_oo_? - - _A Fowl_, Möa, Möa, Möa, Möe´r_oo_. - - _The Hand_, E´r_ee_ma, ´R_ee_ma, E_oo_´my, E´r_ee_ma, ´R_ee_nga, Bandon´h_ee_n. - - _The Head_, _Oo_´po, Aö´po, Tak´_oo_po, Ba´s_ai_ne, N_oo_gwa´n_ai_um, Gar´moing? - - _A Hog_, ´Böa, ´B_oo_a, B_oo_´acka, ´Brr_oo_as, ´B_oo_ga, s. - ´B_oo_gas. - - _I, myself_, W_ou_, s. _ou_, ´W_ou_, _Ou_. - - _To laugh_, ´Atta, ´Katta, ´Häarish, Ap, s. Gye´ap. - - _A Man_, ´Täata, Papa? T_ee_te, Ba´rang, Nar_oo_´mäan. - - _The Navel_, ´P_ee_to, P_ee_to, s. P_ee_to, Nemprtong, Nap_ee_´r_ai_nguk, Whanb_oo_´_ee_n. - P_ee_to´_ai_, - - _No_, ^1´Aym, ´_Ei_sa, ´_Ee_sha, Ka´_ou_re, Ta´ep, E´sa? ´_Ee_va, s. - ^2Y_ai_ha, _Ee_ba. - ^3A´_ou_re, - - _Plantains_, ´M_ai_ya, ^1M_ay_a, M_aiee_a, ´F_oo_dje, Na´brruts. - ^2F_oo_tse, - - _Puncturation_, Ta´t_ou_, E´pat_oo_, Ta´t_ou_, Moko, ´Gan, s. - Gan,galang. - - _Rain_, E´_oo_a, ´_Oo_a, Na´mawar, _Oo_e. - - _Sugar-cane_, E´To, To, Na´r_oo_k. - - _The Teeth_, E´n_ee_h_ee_o, ´N_ee_ho, E´n_ee_ho, N_ee_fo, N_ee_ho, R_ee_´bohn, ´Warrewuk, s. Penna´w_ei_n. - ´R_ai_buk, - - _Water_, A´vay, E´vy, Er´g_ou_r, _Oo_e. - - _To whistle_, ´Map_oo_, F_ee_o,f_ee_o, Papang, Awe´hern, ´Wy_oo_. - - _A Woman_, Wa´h_ei_ne, Ve´h_ee_ne, Ra´bin, N_ai_´bräan, Tama. - - _Yams_, E´_oo_he, _Oo_he, ´_Oo_fe, Nan´ram, _Oo_fe, _Oo_be. - - _Yes_, _Ai_, ´_Ee_o, _Ai_, ´_Ee_o, ´Elo, s. _Ee_o, - s. öe. - - _You_, Oë, Oë. - - _One_, A´Tahay, Katta´ha_ee_, Atta´ha_ee_, Ta´ha_ee_, Ts_ee_´ka_ee_, R_ee_d_ee_, Wag_ee_´_ai_ng. - - _Two_, E´R_oo_a, ´R_oo_a, A´_oo_a, E´_oo_a, E´ry, ´Kar_oo_, ´War_oo_. - - _Three_, ´Tor_oo_, ´Tor_oo_, A´tor_oo_, ´Tor_oo_, E´r_ei_, ´Kahar, Wat_ee_´en. - - _Four_, A´Haa, ´Häa, s. Fäa, A´faa, A´fäa, E´bais, ´K_ai_phar, Wam´ba_ee_k. - - _Five_, E´R_ee_ma, R_ee_ma, A´_ee_ma, ´N_ee_ma, E´r_ee_m, ´Kr_ee_rum, Wannim. - - _Six_, A´ono, ´Hon_oo_, A´ono, Ts_oo_´ka_ee_, Ma´r_ee_d_ee_, Wannim´g_ee_ek. - - _Seven_, A´H_ei_t_oo_, ´H_ee_d_oo_, A´wh_ee_t_oo_, G_oo_y, Ma´kar_oo_, Wannim´n_oo_. - - _Eight_, A´war_oo_, ´Var_oo_, A´wa_oo_, H_oo_rey, Ma´kahar, Wannim´g_ai_n. - - _Nine_, A´_ee_va, H_ee_va, A´_ee_va, G_oo_dbats, Ma´k_ai_phar, Wannim´baeek. - - _Ten_, A´h_oo_r_oo_, Atta´h_oo_r_oo_, ´Wannah_oo_, s. Senearn, Ma´kr_ee_rum, Wann_oo_´n_ai_uk. - s. Wanna´h_oo_e, - Anna´h_oo_r_oo_, - - - - - Footnotes - - -Footnote 1: - - See Lord Anson’s Voyage. - -Footnote 2: - - Or Mallicolla. Some of our people pronounced it Manicolo or Manicola, - and thus it is also written in Quiros’s Memorial, as printed by - Dalrymple, vol. ii. p. 146. - -Footnote 3: - - The particular manner of applying the wrapper may be seen in Wafer’s - Voyage, who mentions this singular custom as existing, though with - some little variation, amongst the Indians of the Isthmus of Darien. - See Wafer’s Voyage, p. 140. - -Footnote 4: - - Dalrymple’s Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 140, 141. - -Footnote 5: - - See the Note, p. 32. - -Footnote 6: - - See the note, p. 32. - -Footnote 7: - - The word Survey is not here to be understood in its literal sense. - Surveying a place, according to my idea, is taking a geometrical plan - of it, in which every place is to have its true situation, which - cannot be done in a work of this nature. - -Footnote 8: - - See Quiros’s Voyage, in Dalrymple’s Collection, vol. i. p. 136, 137. - -Footnote 9: - - See Vol. III. - -Footnote 10: - - See the note at p. 32. of this volume. - -Footnote 11: - - Wafer met with Indians in the isthmus of Darien of the colour of a - white horse. See his _Description of the Isthmus_, p. 134. See also - Mr. de Paw’s Philosophical Inquiries concerning the Americans, where - several other instances of this remarkable whiteness are mentioned, - and the causes of it attempted to be explained. - -Footnote 12: - - See his Voyage, English translation, p. 303. - -Footnote 13: - - Vide Hawkesworth’s Voyages, vol. iii. - -Footnote 14: - - It is not to be supposed that I could know at this time that the - Adventure had made the passage before me. - -Footnote 15: - - See Pernety’s Journal, p. 244, and p. 213. - -Footnote 16: - - See English Translation of Bougainville, p. 51. - -Footnote 17: - - See Bougainville, p. 64 - -Footnote 18: - - About 147 west longitude, as I reckon. - -Footnote 19: - - See Don Antonio d’Ulloa’s Book, vol. ii. chap. 3. page 95 to 102, - where there is a very particular account of this island. - -Footnote 20: - - Ulloa says, that the chart places this island sixty leagues from the - coast of Brazil; and that the Portuguese pilots, who often make the - voyage, judge it to be eighty leagues; but, by taking the mean between - the two opinions, the distance may be fixed at seventy leagues. - -Footnote 21: - - It may be easily perceived, that notwithstanding some words are - entirely different, the first five Indian languages are radically the - same; though the distance from Easter Island to New Zealand is upwards - of fifteen hundred leagues. The principal difference consists in the - mode of pronunciation, which in Easter Island, Amsterdam, and New - Zealand, is more harsh, or guttural, than at the Marquesas Isles, or - Otaheite. The other three differ totally, not only from the preceding, - but from each other; which is more extraordinary than the agreement of - the others, as from Malicollo to Tanna, you never lose sight of land, - nor is New Caledonia at a great distance from the last place. In the - language of Malicollo, a great number of harsh labial sounds prevail, - very difficult to be represented in writing. At Tanna the - pronunciation is likewise harsh, but rather guttural, and the - inhabitants of New Caledonia have many nasal sounds, or snivel much in - speaking. It may, however, be observed, that in the three last - languages, some words are found, which seem to have a distant - resemblance to those that go before; as Brr_oo_as in Malicollo, and - ´B_oo_ga, or Boogas, in Tanna, both signifying a hog, which at - Otaheite, and the Marquesas, is expressed by the word ´Böa, and at - Amsterdam by B_oo_´acka. Yet, whether these may not have been - accidentally introduced, is hard to determine; because they frequently - use two words to express the same thing; as, for instance, in New - Caledonia, they call a star both P_ee_j_oo_ and Fy’fat_oo_: the first - seems most consonant to the general composition of their language, - whereas the second differs very little from E’f_ai_t_oo_ or Whett_oo_, - the name of a star at Otaheite. When they mention puncturation, it is - commonly called Gan, Gan,galang; but sometimes they say Tata’tou, - which is almost the same as Ta’t_ou_, used to express the same thing - at Otaheite and Amsterdam. - -Footnote 22: - - The letters in italic, as _oo_, _ee_, &c. are to be sounded as one. - Those with this ¨ as öe, &c. separately. The accent at the beginning - of a word, signifies the chief stress in pronunciation is to be laid - there: if over it, at any other part, the stress is laid on that part - immediately following. A comma in the middle of a word, either - signifies, that it is compounded of two; or, that the same syllables - repeated, make the word; in both which cases, a small stop, or pause, - must be made in pronouncing it. - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - -This book uses inconsistent spelling and hyphenation, which were -retained in the ebook version. Some corrections have been made to the -text, including normalizing punctuation. Further corrections are noted -below: - - p. vii: Strait Re Maire -> Strait Le Maire - p. viii: Fernando Noronha -> Fernando Noronho - p. 4: a narrow stone beech -> a narrow stone beach - p. 4: dischgared in the air -> discharged in the air - p. 13-14: apparently to to the satisfaction -> apparently to the - satisfaction - p. 17: we were hardily through the passage -> we were hardly through the - passage - p. 27: readines to land -> readiness to land - p. 67: to pass along the beech -> to pass along the beach - p. 74: than stone, stone, or shells -> than stone, or shells - p. 82: people wese assembled -> people were assembled - p. 90: hath a good heighth -> hath a good height - p. 128: all the time we said upon it -> all the time we staid upon it - p. 152: found it to be a bog-bank -> found it to be a fog-bank - p. 171: From the knowlege -> From the knowledge - p. 173: STAIT LE MAIRE -> STRAIT LE MAIRE - Illustration caption p. 178: Tierra del Fuego -> Terra del Fuego - p. 202 still did not not see the peak -> still did not see the peak - p. 210: missing letters in ‘At ---n we were in the latitude’ were - interpreted as ‘At noon we were in the latitude’ - p. 236: worth while to to proceed -> worth while to proceed - p. 240: I I saluted -> I saluted - p. 241: known to to the English -> known to the English - p. 255: at it was attended by -> as it was attended by - p. 258: were she anchored -> where she anchored - Footnote 21: they call a stary both -> they call a star both - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Three Voyages of Captain Cook -Round the World. 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