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diff --git a/6137-h/6137-h.htm b/6137-h/6137-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a857510 --- /dev/null +++ b/6137-h/6137-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,28721 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Home of the Blizzard:, by Sir Douglas Mawson + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Home of the Blizzard, by Douglas Mawson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Home of the Blizzard + +Author: Douglas Mawson + +Release Date: March 24, 2009 [EBook #6137] +Last Updated: February 6, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HOME OF THE BLIZZARD *** + + + + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE HOME OF THE BLIZZARD: + </h1> + <h2> + BEING THE STORY OF THE AUSTRALASIAN ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1911-1914; <br /><br /> + By Sir Douglas Mawson, D.Sc., B.E. <br /><br /> ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR AND + BLACK AND WHITE ALSO WITH MAPS <br /> <br /> WITH 260 FULL-PAGE AND SMALLER + ILLUSTRATIONS BY DR. E. A. WILSON <br />AND OTHER MEMBERS OF THE + EXPEDITION, PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECES, <br />12 PLATES IN FACSIMILE FROM + DR. WILSON'S SKETCHES, PANORAMAS AND MAPS <br /> <br /> TO THOSE WHO MADE IT + POSSIBLE: THE SUBSCRIBERS AND CO-OPERATORS <br /><br /> TO THOSE WHO MADE IT + A SUCCESS: MY COMRADES <br /><br /> AND TO THOSE WHO WAITED + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + <a href="#linkcontents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a><br /> <br /> <a + href="#linkillust">ILLUSTRATIONS</a> + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + AUTHOR'S PREFACE + </h2> + <p> + The object of this book is to present a connected narrative of the + Expedition from a popular and general point of view. The field of work is + a very extensive one, and I feel that this account provides a record + inadequate to our endeavours. However, I am comforted by the fact that the + lasting reputation of the Expedition is founded upon the scientific + volumes which will appear in due course. + </p> + <p> + Allusion to the history of Antarctic exploration has been reduced to a + minimum, as the subject has been ably dealt with by previous writers. + This, and several other aspects of our subject, have been relegated to + special appendices in order to make the story more readable and + self-contained. + </p> + <p> + A glossary of technicalities is introduced for readers not familiar with + the terms. In the same place is given a list of animals referred to from + time to time. There, the common name is placed against the scientific + name, so rendering it unnecessary to repeat the latter in the text. + </p> + <p> + The reports handed to me by the leaders concerning the work of sledging + journeys and of the respective bases were in the main clearly and + popularly written. Still it was necessary to make extensive excisions so + as to preserve a "balance" of justice in all the accounts, and to keep the + narrative within limits. I wish to assure the various authors of my + appreciation of their contributions. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Frank Hurley's artistic taste is apparent in the numerous photographs. + We who knew the circumstances can warmly testify to his perseverance under + conditions of exceptional difficulty. Mr. A. J. Hodgeman is responsible + for the cartographical work, which occupied his time for many months. + Other members of the Expedition have added treasures to our collection of + illustrations; each of which is acknowledged in its place. + </p> + <p> + To Dr. A. L. McLean, who assisted me in writing and editing the book, I am + very greatly indebted. To him the book owes any literary style it may + possess. Dr. McLean's journalistic talent was discovered by me when he + occupied the post of Editor of the 'Adelie Blizzard', a monthly volume + which helped to relieve the monotony of our second year in Adelie Land. + For months he was constantly at work, revising cutting down or amplifying + the material of the story. + </p> + <p> + Finally, I wish to express my thanks to Dr. Hugh Robert Mill for hints and + criticisms by which we have profited. + </p> + <p> + DOUGLAS MAWSON + </p> + <p> + London, Autumn 1914. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_FORE" id="link2H_FORE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + FOREWORD + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Nor on thee yet + Shall burst the future, as successive zones + Of several wonder open on some spirit + Flying secure and glad from heaven to heaven. + BROWNING +</pre> + <p> + The aim of geographical exploration has, in these days, interfused with + the passion for truth. If now the ultimate bounds of knowledge have + broadened to the infinite, the spirit of the man of science has quickened + to a deeper fervour. Amid the finished ingenuities of the laboratory he + has knitted a spiritual entente with the moral philosopher, viewing: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The narrow creeds of right and wrong, which fade + Before the unmeasured thirst for good. +</pre> + <p> + Science and exploration have never been at variance; rather, the desire + for the pure elements of natural revelation lay at the source of that + unquenchable power the "love of adventure." + </p> + <p> + Of whatever nationality the explorer was always emboldened by that + impulse, and, if there ever be a future of decadence, it will live again + in his ungovernable heritage. + </p> + <p> + Eric the Red; Francis Drake—the same ardour was kindled at the heart + of either. It is a far cry from the latter, a born marauder, to the modern + scientific explorer. Still Drake was a hero of many parts, and though a + religious bigot in present acceptation, was one of the enlightened of his + age. A man who moved an equal in a court of Elizabethan manners was not + untouched by the glorious ideals of the Renaissance. + </p> + <p> + Yet it was the unswerving will of a Columbus, a Vasco da Gama or a + Magellan which created the devotion to geographical discovery, per se, and + made practicable the concept of a spherical earth. The world was opened in + imaginative entirety, and it now remained for the geographer to fill in + the details brought home by the navigator. + </p> + <p> + It was long before Thule the wondrous ice-land of the North yielded her + first secrets, and longer ere the Terra Australis of Finne was laid bare + to the prying eyes of Science. + </p> + <p> + Early Arctic navigation opened the bounds of the unknown in a haphazard + and fortuitous fashion. Sealers and whalers in the hope of rich booty + ventured far afield, and, ranging among the mysterious floes or riding out + fierce gales off an ice-girt coast, brought back strange tales to a + curious world. Crudely embellished, contradictory, yet alluring they were; + but the demand for truth came surely to the rescue. Thus, it was often the + whaler who forsook his trade to explore for mere exploration's sake. + Baffin was one of those who opened the gates to the North. + </p> + <p> + Then, too, the commercial spirit of the generations who sought a North + West Passage was responsible for the incursions of many adventurers into + the new world of the ice. + </p> + <p> + Strangely enough, the South was first attacked in the true scientific + spirit by Captain Cook and later by Bellingshausen. Sealing and whaling + ventures followed in their train. + </p> + <p> + At last the era had come for the expedition, planned, administered, + equipped and carried out with a definite objective. It is characteristic + of the race of men that the first design should have centred on the Pole—the + top of the earth, the focus of longitude, the magic goal, to reach which + no physical sacrifice was too great. The heroism of Parry is a type of + that adamant persistence which has made the history of the conquest of the + Poles a volume in which disaster and death have played a large part. It + followed on years of polar experience, it resulted from an exact knowledge + of geographical and climatic conditions, a fearless anticipation, expert + information on the details of transport—and the fortune of the brave—that + Peary and Amundsen had their reward in the present generation. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, in the wake of the pioneers of new land there were passing the + scientific workers born in the early nineteenth century. Sir James Clark + Ross is an epitome of that expansive enthusiasm which was the keynote of + the life of Charles Darwin. The classic "Voyage of the Beagle" (1831-36) + was a triumph of patient rigorous investigation conducted in many lands + outside the polar circles. + </p> + <p> + The methods of Darwin were developed in the 'Challenger' Expedition (1872) + which worked even to the confines of the southern ice. And the torch of + the pure flame of Science was handed on. It was the same consuming ardour + which took Nansen across the plateau of Greenland, which made him + resolutely propound the theory of the northern ice-drift, to maintain it + in the face of opposition and ridicule and to plan an expedition down to + the minutest detail in conformity therewith. The close of the century saw + Science no longer the mere appendage but the actual basis of exploratory + endeavour. + </p> + <p> + Disinterested research and unselfish specialization are the phrases born + to meet the intellectual demands of the new century. + </p> + <p> + The modern polar expedition goes forth with finished appliances, with + experts in every department—sailors, artisans, soldiers and students + in medley; supremely, with men who seek risk and privation—the glory + of the dauntless past. A.L.M. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + INTRODUCTION + </h2> + <p> + One of the oft-repeated questions for which I usually had a ready answer, + at the conclusion of Sir Ernest Shackleton's Expedition (1907-09) was, + "Would you like to go to the Antarctic again?" In the first flush of the + welcome home and for many months, during which the keen edge of pleasure + under civilized conditions had not entirely worn away, I was inclined to + reply with a somewhat emphatic negative. But, once more a man in the world + of men, lulled in the easy repose of routine, and performing the ordinary + duties of a workaday world, old emotions awakened. The grand sweet days + returned in irresistible glamour, faraway "voices" called: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ...from the wilderness, the vast and Godlike spaces, + The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole. +</pre> + <p> + There always seemed to be something at the back of my mind, stored away + for future contemplation, and it was an idea which largely matured during + my first sojourn in the far South. At times, during the long hours of + steady tramping across the trackless snow-fields, one's thoughts flow in a + clear and limpid stream, the mind is unruffled and composed and the + passion of a great venture springing suddenly before the imagination is + sobered by the calmness of pure reason. Perchance this is true of certain + moments, but they are rare and fleeting. It may have been in one such + phase that I suddenly found myself eager for more than a glimpse of the + great span of Antarctic coast lying nearest to Australia. + </p> + <p> + Professor T. W. E. David, Dr. F. A. Mackay and I, when seeking the South + Magnetic Pole during the summer of 1908-09, had penetrated farthest into + that region on land. The limiting outposts had been defined by other + expeditions; at Cape Adare on the east and at Gaussberg on the west. + Between them lay my "Land of Hope and Glory," of whose outline and glacial + features the barest evidence had been furnished. There, bordering the + Antarctic Circle, was a realm far from the well-sailed highways of many of + the more recent Antarctic expeditions. + </p> + <p> + The idea of exploring this unknown coast took firm root in my mind while I + was on a visit to Europe in February 1910. The prospects of an expedition + operating to the west of Cape Adare were discussed with the late Captain + R. F. Scott and I suggested that the activities of his expedition might be + arranged to extend over the area in question. Finally he decided that his + hands were already too full to make any definite proposition for a region + so remote from his own objective. + </p> + <p> + Sir Ernest Shackleton was warmly enthusiastic when the scheme was laid + before him, hoping for a time to identify himself with the undertaking. It + was in some measure due to his initiative that I felt impelled eventually + to undertake the organization and leadership of an expedition. + </p> + <p> + For many reasons, besides the fact that it was the country of my home and + Alma Mater, I was desirous that the Expedition should be maintained by + Australia. It seemed to me that here was an opportunity to prove that the + young men of a young country could rise to those traditions which have + made the history of British Polar exploration one of triumphant endeavour + as well as of tragic sacrifice. And so I was privileged to rally the "sons + of the younger son." + </p> + <p> + A provisional plan was drafted and put before the Australasian Association + for the Advancement of Science at their meeting held at Sydney in January + 1911, with a request for approval and financial assistance. Both were + unanimously granted, a sum of L1000 was voted and committees were formed + to co-operate in the arrangement of a scientific programme and to approach + the Government with a view to obtaining substantial help. + </p> + <p> + The three leading members of the committees were Professor Orme Masson + (President), Professor T. W. Edgeworth David (President Elect) and + Professor G. C. Henderson (President of the Geographical Section). All + were zealous and active in furthering the projects of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile I had laid my scheme of work before certain prominent + Australians and some large donations** had been promised. The sympathy and + warm-hearted generosity of these gentlemen was an incentive for me to push + through my plans at once to a successful issue. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Refer to Finance Appendix. +</pre> + <p> + I therefore left immediately for London with a view to making arrangements + there for a vessel suitable for polar exploration, to secure sledging dogs + from Greenland and furs from Norway, and to order the construction of + certain instruments and equipment. It was also my intention to gain if + possible the support of Australians residing in London. The Council of the + University of Adelaide, in a broad-minded scientific spirit, granted me + the necessary leave of absence from my post as lecturer, to carry through + what had now resolved itself into an extensive and prolonged enterprise. + </p> + <p> + During my absence, a Committee of the Australasian Association for the + Advancement of Science approached the Commonwealth Government with an + appeal for funds. Unfortunately it was the year (1911) of the Coronation + of his Majesty King George V, and the leading members of the Cabinet were + in England, so the final answer to the deputation was postponed. I was + thus in a position of some difficulty, for many requirements had to be + ordered without delay if the Expedition were to get away from Australia + before the end of the year. + </p> + <p> + At length, through the kindness of Lord Northcliffe, the columns of the + Daily Mail were opened to us and Sir Ernest Shackleton made a strong + appeal on our behalf. The Royal Geographical Society set the seal of its + approval on the aims of the Expedition and many donations were soon + afterwards received. + </p> + <p> + At this rather critical period I was fortunate in securing the services of + Captain John King Davis, who was in future to act as Master of the vessel + and Second in Command of the Expedition. He joined me in April 1911, and + rendered valuable help in the preliminary arrangements. Under his + direction the s.y. Aurora was purchased and refitted. + </p> + <p> + The few months spent in London were anxious and trying, but the memory of + them is pleasantly relieved by the generosity and assistance which were + meted out on every hand. Sir George Reid, High Commissioner for the + Australian Commonwealth, I shall always remember as an ever-present + friend. The preparations for the scientific programme received a strong + impetus from well-known Antarctic explorers, notably Dr. W. S. Bruce, Dr. + Jean Charcot, Captain Adrian de Gerlache, and the late Sir John Murray and + Mr. J. Y. Buchanan of the Challenger Expedition. In the dispositions made + for oceanographical work I was indebted for liberal support to H.S.H. the + Prince of Monaco. + </p> + <p> + In July 1911 I was once more in Australia, a large proportion of my time + being occupied with finance, the purchase and concentration of stores and + equipment and the appointment of the staff. In this work I was aided by + Professors Masson and David and by Miss Ethel Bage, who throughout this + busy period acted in an honorary capacity as secretary in Melbourne. + </p> + <p> + Time was drawing on and the funds of the Expedition were wholly inadequate + to the needs of the moment, until Mr. T. H. Smeaton, M.P., introduced a + deputation to the Hon. John Verran, Premier of South Australia. The + deputation, organized to approach the State Government for a grant of + L5000, was led by the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Way, Bart., Chief Justice of + South Australia and Chancellor of the Adelaide University, and supported + by Mr. Lavington Bonython, Mayor of Adelaide, T. Ryan, M.P., the + Presidents of several scientific societies and members of the University + staff. This sum was eventually forthcoming and it paved the way to greater + things. + </p> + <p> + In Sydney, Professor David approached the State Government on behalf of + the Expedition for financial support, and, through the Acting Premier, the + Hon. W. A. Holman, L7000 was generously promised. The State of Victoria + through the Hon. W. Watt, Premier of Victoria, supplemented our funds to + the extent of L6000. + </p> + <p> + Upheld by the prestige of a large meeting convened in the Melbourne Town + Hall during the spring, the objects of the Australasian Antarctic + Expedition were more widely published. On that memorable occasion the + Governor-General, Lord Denman, acted as chairman, and among others who + participated were the Hon. Andrew Fisher (Prime Minister of the + Commonwealth), the Hon. Alfred Deakin (Leader of the Opposition), + Professor Orme Masson (President A.A.A.S. and representative of Victoria), + Senator Walker (representing New South Wales) and Professor G. C. + Henderson (representing South Australia). + </p> + <p> + Soon after this meeting the Commonwealth Government voted L5000, following + a grant of L2000 made by the British Government at the instance of Lord + Denman, who from the outset had been a staunch friend of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + At the end of October 1911 all immediate financial anxiety had passed, and + I was able to devote myself with confidence to the final preparations. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis brought the 'Aurora' from England to Australia, and on + December 2, 1911, we left Hobart for the South. A base was established on + Macquarie Island, after which the ship pushed through the ice and landed a + party on an undiscovered portion of the Antarctic Continent. After a + journey of fifteen hundred miles to the west of this base another party + was landed and then the Aurora returned to Hobart to refit and to carry + out oceanographical investigations, during the year 1912, in the waters + south of Australia and New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + In December 1912 Captain Davis revisited the Antarctic to relieve the two + parties who had wintered there. A calamity befell my own sledging party, + Lieut. B. E. S. Ninnis and Dr. X. Mertz both lost their lives and my + arrival back at Winter Quarters was delayed for so long, that the 'Aurora' + was forced to leave five men for another year to prosecute a search for + the missing party. The remainder of the men, ten in number, and the party + fifteen hundred miles to the west were landed safely at Hobart in March + 1912. + </p> + <p> + Thus the prearranged plans were upset by my non-return and the + administration of the Expedition in Australia was carried out by Professor + David, whose special knowledge was invaluable at such a juncture. + </p> + <p> + Funds were once more required, and, during the summer of 1912, Captain + Davis visited London and secured additional support, while the + Australasian Association for the Advancement of Science again successfully + approached the Commonwealth Government (The Right Hon. J. H. Cook, Prime + Minister). In all, the sum of L8000 was raised to meet the demands of a + second voyage of relief. + </p> + <p> + The party left on Macquarie Island, who had agreed to remain at the + station for another year, ran short of food during their second winter. + The New Zealand Government rendered the Expedition a great service in + dispatching stores to them by the 'Tutanekai' without delay. + </p> + <p> + Finally, in the summer of 1913, the 'Aurora' set out on her third cruise + to the far South, picking up the parties at Macquarie Island and in the + Antarctic, carried out observations for two months amid the ice and + reached Adelaide late in February 1914. + </p> + <p> + Throughout a period of more than three years Professors David and Masson—the + fathers of the Expedition—worked indefatigably and unselfishly in + its interests. Unbeknown to them I have taken the liberty to reproduce the + only photographs at hand of these gentlemen, which action I hope they will + view favourably. That of Professor David needs some explanation: It is a + snapshot taken at Relief Inlet, South Victoria Land, at the moment when + the Northern Party of Shackleton's Expedition, February 1909, was rescued + by the S.Y. 'Nimrod'. + </p> + <p> + In shipping arrangements Capt. Davis was assisted throughout by Mr. J. J. + Kinsey, Christchurch, Capt. Barter, Sydney, and Mr. F. Hammond, Hobart. + </p> + <p> + Such an undertaking is the work of a multitude and it is only by + sympathetic support from many sources that a measure of success can be + expected. In this connexion there are many names which I recall with warm + gratitude. It is impossible to mention all to whom the Expedition is + indebted, but I trust that none of those who have taken a prominent part + will fail to find an acknowledgment somewhere in these volumes. + </p> + <p> + I should specially mention the friendly help afforded by the Australasian + Press, which has at all times given the Expedition favourable and lengthy + notices, insisting on its national and scientific character. + </p> + <p> + With regard to the conduct of the work itself, I was seconded by the + whole-hearted co-operation of the members, my comrades, and what they have + done can only be indicated in this narrative. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><a name="linkcontents" id="linkcontents"></a> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> AUTHOR'S PREFACE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FORE"> FOREWORD </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_INTR"> INTRODUCTION </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_LIST"> LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> COLOUR PLATES </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. </a> THE PROBLEM + AND PREPARATIONS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. </a> THE + LAST DAYS AT HOBART AND THE VOYAGE TO MACQUARIE ISLAND <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. </a> FROM MACQUARIE ISLAND + TO ADELIE LAND <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. </a> NEW + LANDS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. </a> FIRST + DAYS IN ADELIE LAND <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. </a> AUTUMN + PROSPECTS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. </a> THE + BLIZZARD <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. </a> DOMESTIC + LIFE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. </a> MIDWINTER + AND ITS WORK; <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. </a> THE + PREPARATION OF SLEDGING EQUIPMENT <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0011"> + CHAPTER XI. </a> SPRING EXPLOITS <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. </a> ACROSS KING GEORGE V + LAND <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. </a> TOIL + AND TRIBULATION <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. </a> THE + QUEST OF THE SOUTH MAGNETIC POLE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0015"> + CHAPTER XV. </a> EASTWARD OVER THE SEA-ICE <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. </a> HORN BLUFF AND + PENGUIN POINT <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. </a> WITH + STILLWELL'S AND BICKERTON'S PARTIES <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0018"> + CHAPTER XVIII. </a> THE SHIP'S STORY <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. </a> THE WESTERN BASE—ESTABLISHMENT + AND EARLY ADVENTURES <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. + </a> THE WESTERN BASE—WINTER AND SPRING <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. </a> THE WESTERN BASE—BLOCKED + ON THE SHELF-ICE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII. </a> THE + WESTERN BASE—LINKING UP WITH KAISER WILHELM II LAND <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII. </a> A + SECOND WINTER <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV. </a> NEARING + THE END <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XXV. </a> LIFE + ON MACQUARIE ISLAND <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI. + </a> A LAND OF STORM AND MIST <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII. </a> THROUGH ANOTHER + YEAR <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII. </a> THE + HOMEWARD CRUISE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_APPE"> APPENDIX. </a> + <br /><br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_LIST" id="link2H_LIST"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + PG Editor's Note: Only a few of the illustrations + have been included in this eBook. They are grouped + at the end of the text. +</pre> + <h3> + Sir Douglas Mawson (Photogravure) + </h3> + <p> + In Memoriam cross at Cape Denison (Photogravure) + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + COLOUR PLATES + </h2> + <h3> + Virgin solitudes + </h3> + <p> + A weather-worn snow-berg + </p> + <p> + A grottoed iceberg + </p> + <p> + The Mertz Glacier Tongue, at a point 50 miles from the land + </p> + <p> + The Grey Rock Hills at Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + Winter quarters, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + The Alpine-glow + </p> + <p> + "Antarctica is a world of colour, brilliant and intensely pure..." + </p> + <p> + Sledging in Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + [Volume II] + </p> + <p> + Islets fringing the mainland: view looking west from Stillwell Island + </p> + <p> + Rafts of floe-ice + </p> + <p> + Before sunrise: camped near the Hippo Nunatak + </p> + <p> + Avalanche rocks + </p> + <p> + Delay Point + </p> + <p> + The great "Bergschrund" of the Denman Glacier + </p> + <p> + Tussock slopes and misty highlands + </p> + <p> + The shack and its vicinity + </p> + <p> + A Victoria penguin on the nest + </p> + <p> + A growth of lichen on red sandstone + </p> + <p> + Antarctic marine life + </p> + <p> + Brought up in the deep-sea trawl + </p> + <p> + PLATES + </p> + <p> + Professor T. W. Edgeworth David + </p> + <p> + Professor Orme Masson + </p> + <p> + Captain John King Davis + </p> + <p> + The wall of the Antarctic Continent + </p> + <p> + Finner whales of the South + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' crossing the equator, August 1911 + </p> + <p> + Frank Wild + </p> + <p> + Ginger and her family on the voyage from London + </p> + <p> + Queen's Wharf, Hobart, an hour before sailing, December 2, 1911 + </p> + <p> + The last view of Hobart nestling below Mt. Wellington + </p> + <p> + A big, following sea + </p> + <p> + McLean walking aft in rough weather + </p> + <p> + Cruising along the west coast of Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + A Giant Petrel on the nest + </p> + <p> + A Young Giant Petrel on the nest. Caroline Cove + </p> + <p> + The wreck of the "Clyde" + </p> + <p> + The boat harbour—Hassleborough Bay + </p> + <p> + The North End of Macquarie Island showing Wireless Hill. The living hut is + at the north end of the isthmus, with North-East Bay on the right and + Hassleborough Bay on the left side + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' anchored in Hassleborough Bay. In the foreground giant + seaweed is swinging in the wash of the surge + </p> + <p> + A Wanderer Albatross at rest on the water + </p> + <p> + Hunter tickles a sleeping baby Sea Elephant + </p> + <p> + A typical Table-Topped neve berg originating from floating Shelf Ice + </p> + <p> + An Antarctic iceberg with a reticulation of crevasses on its tilted + surface. This berg had no doubt taken its origin from the ice of the + coastal cliffs of Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + In Pack-Ice + </p> + <p> + A cavern in the wall (120 feet) of the shelf ice of the Mertz + Glacier-Tongue + </p> + <p> + A glimpse from within the cavern (shown in the preceding illustration) + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' in Commonwealth Bay; the rising plateau of Adelie Land in the + distance + </p> + <p> + The invaluable motor-launch; left to right, Hamilton, Bickerton, and Blake + </p> + <p> + The whale-boat with passengers for the shore; Wild at the steering oar + </p> + <p> + First steps in the formation of the Main Base Station; landing of stores + and equipment at the head of the Boat Harbour, Cape Denison. In the + distance men are to be seen sledging the materials to the site selected + for the erection of the hut + </p> + <p> + A view of a rocky stretch of the Adelie Land Coast west of Commonwealth + Bay + </p> + <p> + A panorama looking west from winter quarters. On the left and in the + distance are the rising slopes of the inland ice. The moraine is in the + foreground + </p> + <p> + A panorama of the sea front looking eastward from winter quarters. The + plateau slopes are visible to a height of l500 feet + </p> + <p> + In open pack-ice + </p> + <p> + The face of the Shackleton Ice-Shelf 100 miles north of the mainland. Each + strongly-marked horizontal band on the sheer wall represents a year's + snowfall + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' anchored to thick floe-ice 100 miles north of the western + base, Queen Mary Land. In this region the annual snowfall is very heavy, + so that it is possible that the great thickness of floe is due to the + accumulation of one year + </p> + <p> + A berg with inclusions of mud and rock. Long. 10 degrees E. + </p> + <p> + The 'Flying-Fox' viewed from the floe-ice below the brink of the shelf ice + on which the western party wintered + </p> + <p> + Summer at the boat harbour, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + An Adelie penguin on the nest defending her eggs + </p> + <p> + The living-hut, nearing completion. The tents and shelter built of benzine + cases used as temporary quarters are shown + </p> + <p> + The completion of the hut—cheering the Union Jack as it was hoisted + on the flag pole + </p> + <p> + Adelie penguins at home, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + A view of the main base hut in February 1912, just prior to its + completion. Within a few days of the taking of this picture the hut became + so buried in packed snow that ever afterwards little beyond the roof was + to be seen + </p> + <p> + Weddell seals asleep on pancake ice + </p> + <p> + Adelie penguin after weathering a severe blizzard. observe the lumps of + ice adhering to it + </p> + <p> + A Panoramic view looking south from near the hut. In the distance are the + slopes of the inland ice-sheet. In the foreground is the terminal moraine. + Between the rocks and the figure is a zone where rapid thawing takes place + in the summer owing to the amount of dirt contained in the ice + </p> + <p> + A panoramic view looking north towards the sea. In the middle of the + picture is Round Lake. The hut is towards the left-hand side and the + anemograph is on the hill. The men are practising ski running + </p> + <p> + An evening view from Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + The head of a Weddell seal + </p> + <p> + A Weddell seal scratching himself. "Drat those fleas!" + </p> + <p> + The meteorologist with an ice-mask + </p> + <p> + Where the plateau descends to Commonwealth Bay + </p> + <p> + MacCormick Skua gull on the nest with egg + </p> + <p> + Chick of MacCormick Skua gull on the nest + </p> + <p> + Protection—Adelie penguin and chick + </p> + <p> + The lower moraine, composed of water worn boulders, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + An ice-polished surface, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + The boat harbour in March. The hut is seen dimly through light drift + </p> + <p> + "Race of the Spray Smoke's Hurtling Sheet" + </p> + <p> + Walking against a strong wind + </p> + <p> + Picking ice for domestic purposes in a hurricane wind. Note the high angle + at which Webb is leaning on the wind + </p> + <p> + Leaning upon the wind; Madigan near the meteorological screen + </p> + <p> + Stillwell collecting geological specimens in the wind + </p> + <p> + In the blizzard; getting ice for domestic purposes from the glacier + adjacent to the hut + </p> + <p> + An incident in March soon after the completion of the hut: Hodgeman, the + night watchman, returning from his rounds outside, pushes his way into the + veranda through the rapidly accumulating drift snow + </p> + <p> + Mertz in the snow tunnels on his way to the interior of the hut with a box + of ice for the melters + </p> + <p> + Mertz emerging from the trap-door in the roof + </p> + <p> + Working in the hurricane wind, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Getting ice for domestic purposes. Whetter picking; Madigan with the + ice-box + </p> + <p> + The ice-cliff coastline east of winter quarters + </p> + <p> + Madigan's frostbitten face + </p> + <p> + Correll, Bage, McLean, Hodgeman, Hunter, and Bickerton + </p> + <p> + A winter afternoon scene in the hut. From the left: Mertz, McLean, + Madigan, Hunter, Hodgeman. High on the left is the acetylene generator + </p> + <p> + Taking a turn in the kitchen department. Hunter, Hodgeman, Bage. The + doorway on the right is the entrance to the workroom + </p> + <p> + A corner of the hut—Bage mending his sleeping bag. The bunks in two + tiers around the wall are almost hidden by the clothing hanging from the + ceiling + </p> + <p> + A winter evening at the hut. Standing up: Mawson, Madigan, Ninnis, and + Correll. Sitting round the table from left to right: Stillwell, Close, + McLean, Hunter, Hannam, Hodgeman, Murphy, Lasebon, Bickerton, Mertz, and + Bage + </p> + <p> + A morning in the workshop. From left to right: Hodgeman, Hunter, Lasebon, + Correll, and Hannam. The petrol engine part of the wireless plant on the + right + </p> + <p> + Welding by thermit in the workroom, Adelie Land. Bickerton, Correll, + Hannam and Mawson + </p> + <p> + In the catacombs. Ninnis on the right + </p> + <p> + Bage and his tide gauge which was erected on the frozen bay ice + </p> + <p> + Raising the lower section of the northern wireless mast + </p> + <p> + The weathered cliffs of a glacier sheet pushing out into the frozen sea + east of Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + Bage at the door of his astronomical transit House + </p> + <p> + Webb and his magnetograph house + </p> + <p> + At work on the air-tractor sledge in the hangar; Bage, Ninnis, and + Bickerton + </p> + <p> + Webb adjusting the instruments in the magnetograph house a calm noon in + winter, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + The ridged surface of a lake frozen during a blizzard + </p> + <p> + A lively scene in the vicinity of an Antarctic Petrel rookery, Cape Hunter + </p> + <p> + A Weddell seal swimming below the ice-foot + </p> + <p> + A rascally Sea Leopard casting a wicked eye over the broken floe at Land's + End. Main Base + </p> + <p> + A Crab-Eater seal; common amongst the pack-ice + </p> + <p> + The rare Ross seal + </p> + <p> + One of McLean's cultures; bacteria and moulds; illustrating + micro-organisms in the hut + </p> + <p> + Ice flowers on the newly formed sea-ice + </p> + <p> + Madigan visiting the anemograph screen in a high wind + </p> + <p> + The Puffometer, designed to record maximum gust velocities + </p> + <p> + An enormous cone of snow piled up by the blizzards under the coastal + cliffs + </p> + <p> + The cliffs at Land's End, Cape Denison. On the brow of the cliff in front + of the figure (Mertz) is a good example of a snow cornice + </p> + <p> + On the frozen sea in a cavern eaten out by the waves under the coastal + ice-cliffs + </p> + <p> + Ice stalactites draping the foreshores + </p> + <p> + A grotto of "mysteries" + </p> + <p> + The relief of Wild's party. The "Aurora" approaching the floe at the + western base, February 1913 + </p> + <p> + Pacing the deck: Capt. John King Davis and Capt. James Davis + </p> + <p> + An Adelie penguin feeding its young + </p> + <p> + "Amundsen", one of the sledge dogs sent down to us from Amundsen's South + Polar Expedition + </p> + <p> + At the foot of a snow ramp beneath the coastal ice-cliffs, Commonwealth + Bay + </p> + <p> + At Aladdin's Cave. The vertical passage leading down into the cave itself + is situated immediately behind the figure on the right + </p> + <p> + Beneath the surface of the plateau. Bage preparing a meal in Aladdin's + Cave in August + </p> + <p> + Laseron and Hunter using the collapsible steel handcart in preparing for + dredging on the frozen sea + </p> + <p> + Greenland Sledging Dogs—"John Bull" and "Ginger"—tethered on + the rocks adjacent to the hut + </p> + <p> + The Mackellar islets viewed from an elevation of 800 feet on the mainland + </p> + <p> + Snow Petrels preparing to nest, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + A Snow Petrel on the nest + </p> + <p> + Adelie penguins diving into the sea in quest of food + </p> + <p> + Adelie penguins jumping on to the floe + </p> + <p> + Mertz in an icy ravine + </p> + <p> + Mertz and Ninnis arrive with the dogs at Aladdin's Cave + </p> + <p> + Mertz emerging from Aladdin's Cave + </p> + <p> + A team of dogs eagerly following Ninnis + </p> + <p> + The dogs enjoy their work + </p> + <p> + Speeding east + </p> + <p> + A distant view of Aurora Peak from the west + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant B. E. S. Ninnis, R.F. + </p> + <p> + Mertz, Ninnis, and Mawson erecting the tent in a high wind + </p> + <p> + A later stage in erection of the tent in a wind (one man is inside) + </p> + <p> + Dr. Xavier Mertz + </p> + <p> + Pages from Dr. Mertz' diary + </p> + <p> + Mawson emerging from his makeshift tent + </p> + <p> + The half-sledge used in the last stage of Mawson's journey + </p> + <p> + "...The long journey was at an end—a terrible chapter of my life was + finished!" + </p> + <p> + The southern supporting party on the plateau. Hunter, Murphy and Laseron + </p> + <p> + The southern and supporting parties building a depot on the plateau + </p> + <p> + Depot made by the southern and supporting parties at a point 67 miles + south of Commonwealth Bay. Murphy, Laseron, and Hunter packing sledge in + the foreground; Bage in the distance + </p> + <p> + A rough sledging surface of high Sastrugi encountered by the southern + party 200 miles S.S.E. of the hut + </p> + <p> + Farthest south camp of southern party, 17 "minutes" (about 50 miles) from + the South Magnetic Pole. Bage near sledge; Webb taking set of magnetic + observations behind snow barricade + </p> + <p> + Sastrugi furrowed by the mighty winds of the plateau, 250 miles S.S.E. of + winter quarters, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Under reefed sail. Southern party 290 miles S.S.E. of winter quarters, + Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Hurley in sledging gear + </p> + <p> + Correll on the edge of a ravine in the ice sheet + </p> + <p> + Madigan's, Murphy's, and Stillwell's parties breaking camp at Aladdin's + Cave at the commencement of the summer journeys + </p> + <p> + The surface of the continental ice sheet in the coastal region where it is + badly crevassed + </p> + <p> + Working the sledge through broken sea ice, 46 miles off King George V + Land. Madigan, Correll and McLean + </p> + <p> + The "Organ-Pipes" of Horn Bluff (1000 feet in height) pushing out from the + mainland + </p> + <p> + Madigan, Correll and McLean camped below the cliffs of Horn Bluff (1000 + FEET IN height). Columnar Dolerite is seen surmounting a sedimentary + series partly buried in the talus-slope + </p> + <p> + An outcrop of a sedimentary formation containing bands of coal projecting + through the talus slope below the columnar dolerite at Horn Bluff + </p> + <p> + The face of a granite outcrop near penguin point. At its base is a tide + crack and ice foot + </p> + <p> + The granite cliffs at Penguin Point where Cape Pigeon and Silver Petrel + rookeries were found; the site of New Year's Camp + </p> + <p> + [VOLUME II] + </p> + <p> + Madigan Nunatak—Close and Laseron standing by the sledge + </p> + <p> + A desolate camp on the plateau + </p> + <p> + Sledging rations for three men for three months + </p> + <p> + Stillwell Island—a haunt of the Silver-Grey petrel + </p> + <p> + "The Bus", the air-tractor sledge + </p> + <p> + Bickerton and his sledge with detachable wheels + </p> + <p> + Amongst the splintered ice where the ice-sheet descends to the sea near + Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + The big winding-drum for the deep-sea dredging cable + </p> + <p> + Fletcher with the driver loaded ready to take a sounding + </p> + <p> + At the provision depot for castaways provided by the New Zealand + Government, Camp Cove, Carnley Harbour, Auckland Island. Primmer on the + right + </p> + <p> + The brick pier erected at Port Ross, Auckland Islands, by the magneticians + of Sir James Clarke Ross's Expedition + </p> + <p> + The "Aurora" at anchor in Port Ross, Auckland Islands + </p> + <p> + The Monagasque trawl hoisted on the derrick: Gray standing by + </p> + <p> + A remarkable berg, two cusps standing on a single basement. Note that it + has risen considerably out of the sea, exposing old water lines + </p> + <p> + A portal worn through a berg by the waves + </p> + <p> + A turreted berg + </p> + <p> + A Midsummer view of the hut and its neighbourhood, looking S.E. + </p> + <p> + Forging through pack-ice + </p> + <p> + Members of the main base party homeward bound, January 1913. From left to + right: back row, Whetter, Hurley, Webb, Hannam, Laseron, Close; front row, + Stillwell, Hunter, Correll, Murphy + </p> + <p> + "Wireless" Corner in the workshop. Our link with civilization + </p> + <p> + The "Aurora" anchored to the floe off the western base + </p> + <p> + The establishment of the western base. Hauling stores to the top of the + ice-shelf + </p> + <p> + The western base hut in winter. Note the entrance; a vertical hole in the + snow in the foreground + </p> + <p> + The western base hut—The Grottoes—in summer + </p> + <p> + An evening camp, Queen Mary Land + </p> + <p> + A man-hauled sledge + </p> + <p> + In the veranda of the western base hut—The "Grottoes"—looking + towards the entrance dug vertically down through the snow drift + </p> + <p> + The wind-weathered igloo built for magnetic observations—western + base + </p> + <p> + Nunatak—Queen Mary Land: showing remarkable moat on windward side + and ramp on lee + </p> + <p> + Midwinter's dinner in Queen Mary Land, 1912. From left to right: Behind—Hoadley, + Dovers, Watson, Harrisson, Wild. In Front—Jones, Moyes, Kennedy + </p> + <p> + A bevy of Emperor penguins on the floe + </p> + <p> + A yawning crevasse + </p> + <p> + Wild's party making slow progress in dangerous country + </p> + <p> + Wild, Kennedy, and Harrisson amongst the abysses of the Denman glacier + </p> + <p> + "The whole was the wildest, maddest and yet the grandest thing imaginable" + </p> + <p> + Wild's party working their sledges through the crushed ice at the foot of + Denman glacier + </p> + <p> + The Hippo Nunatak + </p> + <p> + Dog-sledging + </p> + <p> + Where the floe-ice meets the Shackleton Shelf + </p> + <p> + The hummocky floe on the southern margin of the Davis Sea + </p> + <p> + View showing the young birds massed together at the Emperor penguins' + rookery at Haswell Island + </p> + <p> + Antarctic petrels on the nest + </p> + <p> + A Snow petrel chick on the nest + </p> + <p> + A Silver-Grey petrel on the nest + </p> + <p> + The symmetrically domed outline of Drygalski Island, low on the horizon. + The island is 1200 feet high and 9 miles in diameter + </p> + <p> + The main western party on their return to the "Grottoes." from the left: + Hoadley, Jones and Dovers + </p> + <p> + Blizzard-harassed penguins, after many days buried in the snow + </p> + <p> + The pancake ice under the cliffs at Land's End + </p> + <p> + A wonderful canopy of ice + </p> + <p> + Sastrugi sculptured by the incessant blizzards + </p> + <p> + The terminal moraine, near the hut, Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + Disappearing in the drift + </p> + <p> + The hut looming through the drift + </p> + <p> + A wall of solid gneiss near winter quarters + </p> + <p> + An erratic on the moraine. Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + Frozen spray built up by the blizzards along the shore + </p> + <p> + A view of the mainland from the Mackellar Islets: ice-capped islets in the + foreground: the rock visible on the mainland is Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + A Wilson petrel on the nest, Mackellar Islets + </p> + <p> + The "Aurora" lying at anchor, Commonwealth Bay; in the distance the + ice-slopes of the mainland are visible rising to a height of 3500 feet. In + the foreground is a striking formation originating by the freezing of + spray dashed up by the hurricane wind + </p> + <p> + The shack: showing the natural rocky protection on the windward side + </p> + <p> + The interior of the operating hut on Wireless Hill + </p> + <p> + Weka pecking on the beach + </p> + <p> + Chicks of the Dominican gull + </p> + <p> + Macquarie Island Skuas feeding + </p> + <p> + Bull Sea Elephants fighting + </p> + <p> + The thermometer screen, Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + The wind-recording instruments, Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + "Feather bed" terrace near Eagle Point, Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + A glacial lake (Major Lake) on Macquarie Island, 600 feet above sea level + </p> + <p> + Victoria penguins + </p> + <p> + View of the wireless station on the summit of Wireless Hill + </p> + <p> + The wireless operating hut + </p> + <p> + The wireless engine hut + </p> + <p> + Panoramic view of Macquarie Island, as seen from Wireless Hill at the + north extremity of the island. The shack is near the bottom of the picture + on the left-hand side: the sealers' hut at the far end of the isthmus: the + distant left-hand point of the coast is the Nuggets: north-east bay on the + left: Hasselborough Bay on the right + </p> + <p> + A view of the shore at The Nuggets: the sealers' shed on the right. the + bare patches far inland high on the hills above the shed are Royal + penguins' rookeries, from which they travel to the beach in a long + procession + </p> + <p> + Sooty albatrosses nesting + </p> + <p> + A white Giant Petrel on the nest + </p> + <p> + A Giant Petrel rookery + </p> + <p> + The Macquarie Island party. From left to right: Sandell, Ainsworth, + Sawyer, Hamilton, Blake + </p> + <p> + King penguins + </p> + <p> + The head of a Sea Leopard, showing fight + </p> + <p> + A precocious Victoria penguin + </p> + <p> + Young male Sea Elephants at play + </p> + <p> + A large Sea Leopard on the beach + </p> + <p> + A Sea Elephant + </p> + <p> + A cormorant rookery, Hasselborough Bay + </p> + <p> + A young King penguin + </p> + <p> + A Sclater penguin + </p> + <p> + Royal penguins on the nest + </p> + <p> + Gentoo penguin and young + </p> + <p> + A cow Sea Elephant and pup + </p> + <p> + The head of a bull Sea Elephant + </p> + <p> + A rookery of Sea Elephants near the shore at the Nelson reef, chiefly cows + and pups + </p> + <p> + A bull Sea Elephant in a fighting attitude + </p> + <p> + A cormorant and young on nest + </p> + <p> + The wild West Coast of Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + A Royal penguins rookery + </p> + <p> + The wreck of the "Gratitude" on the Nuggets beach + </p> + <p> + Kerguelen Cabbage + </p> + <p> + Flowering plant + </p> + <p> + Darby and Joan. Two rare examples of penguins which visited the shack, + Macquarie Island. On the left a Sclater penguin, on the right an albino + Royal penguin + </p> + <p> + Large erratics and other glacial debris on the summit of Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + Pillow-form lava on the highlands of Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + Waterfall Lake, of glacial origin + </p> + <p> + On the plateau-like summit of Macquarie Island; a panorama near the north + end. Glacial lakes and tarns in the foreground + </p> + <p> + The King penguins rookery, Lusitania Bay + </p> + <p> + The head of a bull Sea Elephant photographed in the act of roaring + </p> + <p> + The rookery of Royal penguins at the south end, viewed from a cliff + several hundred feet above it + </p> + <p> + Young Sea Elephants asleep amongst Royal penguins, south end rookery + </p> + <p> + Hamilton inspecting a good catch of fish at Lusitania Bay + </p> + <p> + Hamilton obtaining the blubber of a Sea Elephant for fuel + </p> + <p> + An illustration of the life on the Mackellar Islets + </p> + <p> + An ice mushroom amongst the Mackellar Islets + </p> + <p> + View looking out of a shallow ravine at the eastern extremity of the rocks + at Cape Denison + </p> + <p> + "Hurley had before him a picture in perfect proportion...." + </p> + <p> + Antarctic petrels resting on the snow + </p> + <p> + Silver-grey petrels making love + </p> + <p> + Looking towards the mainland from Stillwell Island: Silver-grey petrels + nesting in the foreground + </p> + <p> + Antarctic petrels nesting on the rocky ledges of the cliffs near Cape + Hunter + </p> + <p> + Icing ship in the pack north of Termination Ice-tongue + </p> + <p> + Emperor penguins follow the leader into the sea + </p> + <p> + Emperor penguins jumping on to the floe + </p> + <p> + Cape Hunter, composed of ancient sedimentary rocks (Phyllites) + </p> + <p> + Examples of Antarctic marine crustaceans + </p> + <p> + TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS + </p> + <p> + Antarctic discoveries preceding the year 1910 + </p> + <p> + Plan and section of the S.Y. 'Aurora" + </p> + <p> + Map of Macquarie Island by L. R. BLAKE + </p> + <p> + Ships' tracks in the vicinity of Totten's Land and North's Land + </p> + <p> + Ships' tracks in the vicinity of Knox Land and Budd Land + </p> + <p> + Plan of the hut, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Sections across the hut, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + The vicinity of the main base, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + A section of the coastal slope of the continental ice-sheet inland from + winter quarters, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Wind velocity and wind direction charts for a period of twenty-four hours, + Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + A comparison of wind velocities and temperatures prevailing at Cape Royds, + McMurdo Sound, and at winter quarters, Adelie Land, during the months of + May and June + </p> + <p> + The drift-gauge + </p> + <p> + The wind velocity and wind direction charts for midwinter day + </p> + <p> + The tide-gauge + </p> + <p> + Midwinter Day menu at the main base, Adelie Land, 1912 + </p> + <p> + Section through a Nansen sledging cooker mounted on the Primus + </p> + <p> + Map showing the track of the southern sledging party from the main base + </p> + <p> + [VOLUME II] + </p> + <p> + Map showing the remarkable distribution of islets fringing the coast-line + of Adelie Land in the vicinity of Cape Gray + </p> + <p> + Map showing the tracks of the western sledging party, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Plan illustrating the arrangements for deep-sea trawling on board the + "Aurora" + </p> + <p> + Map of the Auckland Islands + </p> + <p> + The "Contents" page of the first number of the "Adelie Blizzard" + </p> + <p> + The meteorological chart for April 12, 1913, compiled by the Commonwealth + Meteorological Bureau + </p> + <p> + A diagrammatic sketch illustrating the meteorological conditions at the + main base, noon, September 6, 1913 + </p> + <p> + Plan of the hut, Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + Map of the north end of Macquarie Island by L. R. Blake + </p> + <p> + A section across Macquarie Island through Mt. Elder, by L. R. Blake + </p> + <p> + A sketch illustrating the distribution of the Mackellar Islets + </p> + <p> + A section illustrating the moat in the Antarctic continental shelf + </p> + <p> + Signatures of members of the land parties + </p> + <p> + A section of the Antarctic plateau from the coast to a point 300 miles + inland, along the route followed by the southern sledging party + </p> + <p> + A section across a part of the Antarctic continent through the South + Magnetic Pole + </p> + <p> + A section of the floor of the Southern Ocean between Tasmania and King + George V Land + </p> + <p> + A section of the floor of the Southern Ocean between Western Australia and + Queen Mary Land + </p> + <p> + A map showing Antarctic land discoveries preceding 1838 + </p> + <p> + A map showing Antarctic land discoveries preceding 1896 + </p> + <p> + A map of the Antarctic regions as known at the present day + </p> + <p> + FOLDING MAPS + </p> + <p> + Regional map showing the area covered by the Australasian Antarctic + Expedition, 1911-1914 + </p> + <p> + King George V Land, showing tracks of the eastern sledging parties from + the main base + </p> + <p> + Queen Mary Land, showing tracks of the sledging party from the main base + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I THE PROBLEM AND PREPARATIONS + </h2> + <p> + Notwithstanding the fact that it has been repeatedly stated in the public + press that the Australasian Antarctic expedition had no intention of + making the South Geographical Pole its objective, it is evident that our + aims were not properly realized by a large section of the British public, + considering that many references have appeared in print attributing that + purpose to the undertaking. With three other Antarctic expeditions already + in the field, it appeared to many, therefore, that the venture was + entirely superfluous. + </p> + <p> + The Expedition had a problem sketched in unmistakable feature, and the + following pages will shortly set forth its historical origin and + rationale. + </p> + <p> + The Antarctic problem** assumed its modern aspect after Captain Cook's + circumnavigation of the globe in high southern latitudes, accomplished + between 1772 and 1775. Fact replaced the fiction and surmise of former + times, and maps appeared showing a large blank area at the southern + extremity of the earth, where speculative cartographers had affirmed the + existence of habitable land extending far towards the Equator. Cook's + voyage made it clear that if there were any considerable mass of Antarctic + land, it must indubitably lie within the Antarctic Circle, and be + subjected to such stringent climatic conditions as to render it an + unlikely habitation for man. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Dr. H. R. Mill has compiled a complete account of Antarctic +exploration in his "Siege of the South Pole." Refer also to the +Historical Appendix for an abridged statement. +</pre> + <p> + Cook's reports of seals on the island of South Georgia initiated in the + Antarctic seas south of America a commercial enterprise, which is still + carried on, and has incidentally thrown much light upon the geography of + the South Polar regions. Indeed, almost the whole of such information, + prior to the year 1839, was the outcome of sealing and whaling projects. + </p> + <p> + About the year 1840, a wave of scientific enthusiasm resulted in the + dispatch of three national expeditions by France, the United States, and + Great Britain; part at least of whose programmes was Antarctic + exploration. Russia had previously sent out an expedition which had made + notable discoveries. + </p> + <p> + The contributions to knowledge gained at this period were considerable. + Those carried back to civilization by the British expedition under Ross, + are so well known that they need not be described. The French under Dumont + D'Urville and the Americans under Wilkes visited the region to the + southward of Australia—the arena of our own efforts—and + frequent references will be made to their work throughout this story. + </p> + <p> + What has been termed the period of averted interest now intervened, before + the modern movement set in with overpowering insistence. It was not till + 1897 that it had commenced in earnest. Since then many adventurers have + gone forth; most of the prominent civilized nations taking their share in + exploration. By their joint efforts some, at least, of the mystery of + Antarctica has been dispelled. + </p> + <p> + It is now a commonplace, largely in the world of geographical concerns, + that the earth has still another continent, unique in character, whose + ultimate bounds are merely pieced together from a fragmentary outline. The + Continent itself appears to have been sighted for the first time in the + year 1820, but no human being actually set foot on it until 1895. The + Belgian expedition under de Gerlache was the first to experience the + Antarctic winter, spending the year 1898 drifting helplessly, frozen in + the pack-ice, to the southward of America. In the following year a British + expedition under Borchgrevinck, wintering at Cape Adare, passed a year + upon the Antarctic mainland. + </p> + <p> + The main efforts of recent years have been centred upon the two more + accessible areas, namely, that in the American Quadrant** which is + prolonged as a tongue of land outside the Antarctic Circle, being + consequently less beset by ice; secondly, the vicinity of the Ross Sea in + the Australian Quadrant. It is because these two favoured domains have for + special reasons attracted the stream of exploration that the major portion + of Antarctica is unknown. Nevertheless, one is in a position to sketch + broad features which will probably not be radically altered by any future + expeditions. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** For convenience, the Antarctic regions may be referred to in four +main divisions, corresponding with the quadrants of the hemisphere. Of +the several suggestions thrown out by previous writers, the one adopted +here is that based on the meridian of Greenwich, referring the quadrants +to an adjacent continent or ocean. Thus the American Quadrant lies +between 0 degrees and 90 degrees W., the African Quadrant between +0 degrees and 90 degrees E., and the Australian Quadrant between 90 +degrees and 180 degrees E. The fourth division is called the Pacific +Quadrant, since ocean alone lies to the north of it. +</pre> + <p> + Certain it is that a continent approaching the combined areas of Australia + and Europe lies more or less buried beneath the South Polar snows; though + any statement of the precise area is insufficient for a proper + appreciation of the magnitude, unless its elevated plateau-like character + be also taken into consideration. It appears to be highest over a wide + central crown rising to more than ten thousand feet. Of the remainder, + there is little doubt that the major portion stands as high as six + thousand feet. The average elevation must far exceed that of any other + continent, for, with peaks nineteen thousand feet above sea-level, its + mountainous topography is remarkable. Along the coast of Victoria Land, in + the Australian Quadrant, are some of the most majestic vistas of alpine + scenery that the world affords. Rock exposures are rare, ice appearing + everywhere except in the most favoured places. + </p> + <p> + Regarding plant and animal life upon the land there is little to say. The + vegetable kingdom is represented by plants of low organization such as + mosses, lichens, diatoms and algae. The animal world, so far as true + land-forms are concerned, is limited to types like the protozoa (lowest in + the organic scale), rotifera and minute insect-like mites which lurk + hidden away amongst the tufts of moss or on the under side of loose + stones. Bacteria, most fundamental of all, at the basis, so to speak, of + animal and vegetable life, have a manifold distribution. + </p> + <p> + It is a very different matter when we turn to the life of the neighbouring + seas, for that vies in abundance with the warmer waters of lower + latitudes. There are innumerable seals, many sea-birds and millions of + penguins. As all these breed on Antarctic shores, the coastal margin of + the continent is not so desolate. + </p> + <p> + In view of the fact that life, including land-mammals, is abundant in the + North Polar regions, it may be asked why analogous forms are not better + represented in corresponding southern latitudes. Without going too deeply + into the question, it may be briefly stated, firstly, that a more + widespread glaciation than at present prevails invested the great southern + continent and its environing seas, within recent geological times, + effectually exterminating any pre-existing land life. Secondly, since that + period the continent has been isolated by a wide belt of ocean from other + lands, from which restocking might have taken place after the manner of + the North Polar regions. Finally, climatic conditions in the Antarctic + are, latitude for latitude, much more severe than in the Arctic. + </p> + <p> + With regard to climate in general, Antarctica has the lowest mean + temperature and the highest wind-velocity of any land existing. This + naturally follows from the fact that it is a lofty expanse of ice-clad + land circumscribing the Pole, and that the Antarctic summer occurs when + the earth is farther from the sun than is the case during the Arctic + summer. + </p> + <p> + There are those who would impatiently ask, "What is the use of it all?" + The answer is brief. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Antarctic Land discoveries preceding the year 1910 + </p> + <p> + The polar regions, like any other part of the globe, may be said to be + paved with facts, the essence of which it is necessary to acquire before + knowledge of this special zone can be brought to even a provisional + exactitude. On the face of it, polar research may seem to be specific and + discriminating, but it must be remembered that an advance in any one of + the departments into which, for convenience, science is artificially + divided, conduces to the advantage of all. Science is a homogeneous whole. + If we ignore the facts contained in one part of the world, surely we are + hampering scientific advance. It is obvious to every one that, given only + a fraction of the pieces, it is a much more difficult task to put together + a jig-saw puzzle and obtain an idea of the finished pattern than were all + the pieces at hand. The pieces of the jig-saw puzzle are the data of + science. + </p> + <p> + Though it is not sufficiently recognized, the advance of science is + attended by a corresponding increase in the creature comforts of man. + Again, from an economic aspect, the frozen South may not attract immediate + attention. But who can say what a train of enterprise the future may + bring? + </p> + <p> + Captain James Cook, on his return to London after the circumnavigation of + Antarctica, held that the far-southern lands had no future. Yet, a few + years later, great profits were being returned to Great Britain and the + United States from sealing-stations established as a result of Cook's own + observations. At the present day, several whaling companies have + flourishing industries in the Antarctic waters within the American + Quadrant. + </p> + <p> + Even now much can be said in regard to the possibilities offered by the + Antarctic regions for economic development, but, year by year, the outlook + will widen, since man is constantly resorting to subtler and more + ingenious artifice in applying Nature's resources. It will be remembered + that Charles Darwin, when in Australia, predicted a very limited + commercial future for New South Wales. But the mastery of man overcame the + difficulties which Darwin's too penetrating mind foresaw. + </p> + <p> + What will be the role of the South in the progress of civilization and in + the development of the arts and sciences, is not now obvious. As sure as + there is here a vast mass of land with potentialities, strictly limited at + present, so surely will it be cemented some day within the universal + plinth of things. + </p> + <p> + An unknown coast-line lay before the door of Australia. Following on the + general advance of exploration, and as a sequel to several important + discoveries, the time arrived when a complete elucidation of the Antarctic + problem was more than ever desirable. In the Australian Quadrant, the + broad geographical features of the Ross Sea area were well known, but of + the remainder and greater portion of the tract only vague and imperfect + reports could be supplied. + </p> + <p> + Before submitting our plans in outline, it will be as well to review the + stage at which discovery had arrived when our Expedition came upon the + scene. + </p> + <p> + The coast-line of the eastern extremity of the Australian Quadrant, + including the outline of the Ross Sea and the coast west-north-west of + Cape Adare as far as Cape North, was charted by Ross and has been + amplified by seven later expeditions. In the region west of Cape North, + recent explorers had done little up till 1911. Scott in the 'Discovery' + had disproved the existence of some of Wilkes's land; Shackleton in the + 'Nimrod' had viewed some forty miles of high land beyond Cape North; + lastly, on the eve of our departure, Scott's 'Terra Nova' had met two + patches of new land—Oates Land—still farther west, making it + evident that the continent ranged at least two hundred and eighty miles in + a west-north-west direction from Cape Adare. + </p> + <p> + Just outside the western limit of the Australian Quadrant lies Gaussberg, + discovered by a German expedition under Drygalski in 1902. Between the + most westerly point sighted by the 'Terra Nova' and Gaussberg, there is a + circuit of two thousand miles, bordering the Antarctic Circle, which no + vessel had navigated previous to 1840. + </p> + <p> + This was the arena of our activities and, therefore, a synopsis of the + voyages of early mariners will be enlightening. + </p> + <p> + Balleny, a whaling-master, with the schooner 'Eliza Scott' of one hundred + and fifty-four tons, and a cutter, the 'Sabrina' of fifty-four tons, was + the first to meet with success in these waters. Proceeding southward from + New Zealand in 1839, he located the Balleny Islands, a group containing + active volcanoes, lying about two hundred miles off the nearest part of + the mainland and to the north-west of Cape Adare. Leaving these islands, + Balleny sailed westward keeping a look-out for new land. During a gale the + vessels became separated and the 'Sabrina' was lost with all hands. + Balleny in the 'Eliza Scott' arrived safely in England and reported + doubtful land in 122 degrees E. longitude, approximately. Dr. H. R. Mill + says: "Although the name of the cutter 'Sabrina' has been given to an + appearance of land at this point, we cannot look upon its discovery as + proved by the vague reference made by the explorers." + </p> + <p> + On January 1, 1840, Dumont D'Urville sailed southward from Hobart in + command of two corvettes, the 'Astrolabe' and the 'Zelee'. Without much + obstruction from floating ice, he came within sight of the Antarctic + coast, thenceforth known as Adelie Land. The expedition did not set foot + on the mainland, but on an adjacent island. They remained in the vicinity + of the coast for a few days, when a gale sprang up which was hazardously + weathered on the windward side of the pack-ice. The ships then cruised + along the face of flat-topped ice-cliffs, of the type known as barrier-ice + or shelf-ice, which were taken to be connected with land and named Cote + Clarie. As will be seen later, Cote Clarie does not exist. + </p> + <p> + Dr. H. R. Mill sums up the work done by the French expedition during its + eleven days' sojourn in the vicinity of the Antarctic coast: + </p> + <p> + "D'Urville's discoveries of land were of but little account. He twice + traced out considerable stretches of a solid barrier of ice, and at one + point saw and landed upon rocks in front of it; but he could only give the + vaguest account of what lay behind the barrier." + </p> + <p> + Wilkes of the American expedition proceeded south from Sydney at the close + of 1839. His vessels were the 'Vincennes', a sloop of war of seven hundred + and eighty tons, the 'Peacock', another sloop of six hundred and fifty + tons, the 'Porpoise', a gun-brig of two hundred and thirty tons and a + tender, the 'Flying Fish' of ninety-six tons. The scientists of the + expedition were precluded from joining in this part of the programme, and + were left behind in Sydney. Wilkes himself was loud in his denunciation + both of the ships and of the stores, though they had been specially + assembled by the naval department. The ships were in Antarctic waters for + a period of forty-two days, most of the time separated by gales, during + which the crews showed great skill in navigating their ill-fitted crafts + and suffered great hardships. + </p> + <p> + Land was reported almost daily, but, unfortunately, subsequent exploration + has shown that most of the landfalls do not exist. Several soundings made + by Wilkes were indicative of the approach to land, but he must have + frequently mistaken for it distant ice-masses frozen in the pack. + Experience has proved what deceptive light-effects may be observed amid + the ice and how easily a mirage may simulate reality. + </p> + <p> + Whatever the cause of Wilkes's errors, the truth remains that Ross sailed + over land indicated in a rough chart which had been forwarded to him by + Wilkes, just before the British expedition set out. More recently, Captain + Scott in the 'Discovery' erased many of the landfalls of Wilkes, and now + we have still further reduced their number. The 'Challenger' approached + within fifteen miles of the western extremity of Wilkes's Termination + Land, but saw no sign of it. The 'Gauss' in the same waters charted Kaiser + Wilhelm II Land well to the south of Termination Land, and the eastward + continuation of the former could not have been visible from Wilkes's ship. + After the voyage of the 'Discovery', the landfalls, the existence of which + had not been disproved, might well have been regarded as requiring + confirmation before their validity could be recognised. + </p> + <p> + The only spot where rocks were reported in situ was in Adelie Land, where + the French had anticipated the Americans by seven days. Farther west, + earth and stones had been collected by Wilkes from material embedded in + floating masses of ice off the coast of his Knox Land. These facts lend + credence to Wilkes's claims of land in that vicinity. His expedition did + not once set foot on Antarctic shores, and, possibly on account of the + absence of the scientific staff, his descriptions tend to be inexact and + obscure. The soundings made by Wilkes were sufficient to show that he was + probably in some places at no great distance from the coast, and, + considering that his work was carried out in the days of sailing-ships, in + unsuitable craft, under the most adverse weather conditions, with crews + scurvy-stricken and discontented, it is wonderful how much was achieved. + We may amply testify that he did more than open the field for future + expeditions. + </p> + <p> + After we had taken into account the valuable soundings of the 'Challenger' + (1872), the above comprised our knowledge concerning some two thousand + miles of prospective coast lying to the southward of Australia, at a time + when the plans of the Australasian expedition were being formulated. + </p> + <p> + The original plans for the expedition were somewhat modified upon my + return from Europe. Briefly stated, it was decided that a party of five + men should be stationed at Macquarie Island, a sub-antarctic possession of + the Commonwealth. They were to be provided with a hut, stores and a + complete wireless plant, and were to prosecute general scientific + investigations, co-operating with the Antarctic bases in meteorological + and other work. After disembarking the party at Macquarie Island, the + 'Aurora' was to proceed south on a meridian of 158 degrees E. longitude, + to the westward of which the Antarctic programme was to be conducted. + </p> + <p> + Twelve men, provisioned and equipped for a year's campaign and provided + with wireless apparatus, were to be landed in Antarctica on the first + possible opportunity at what would constitute a main base. Thereafter, + proceeding westward, it was hoped that a second and a third party, + consisting of six and eight men respectively, would be successively + established on the continent at considerable distances apart. Of course we + were well aware of the difficulties of landing even one party, but, as + division of our forces would under normal conditions secure more + scientific data, it was deemed advisable to be prepared for exceptionally + favourable circumstances. + </p> + <p> + Macquarie Island, a busy station in the days of the early sealers, had + become almost neglected. Little accurate information was to be had + regarding it, and no reliable map existed. A few isolated facts had been + gathered of its geology, and the anomalous fauna and flora sui generis had + been but partially described. Its position, eight hundred and fifty miles + south-south-east of Hobart, gave promise of valuable meteorological data + relative to the atmospheric circulation of the Southern Hemisphere and of + vital interest to the shipping of Australia and New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + As to the Antarctic sphere of work, it has been seen that very little was + known of the vast region which was our goal. It is sufficient to say that + almost every observation would be fresh material added to the sum of human + knowledge. + </p> + <p> + In addition to the work to be conducted from the land bases, it was + intended that oceanographic investigations should be carried on by the + 'Aurora' as far as funds would allow. With this object in view, provision + was made for the necessary apparatus which would enable the ship's party + to make extensive investigations of the ocean and its floor over the broad + belt between Australia and the Antarctic Continent. This was an important + branch of study, for science is just as much interested in the greatest + depths of the ocean as with the corresponding elevations of the land. + Indeed, at the present day, the former is perhaps the greater field. + </p> + <p> + The scope of our intentions was regarded by some as over-ambitious, but + knowing + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + How far high failure overleaps the bound + Of low successes, +</pre> + <p> + and seeing nothing impossible in these arrangements, we continued to + adhere to them as closely as possible, with what fortune remains to be + told. + </p> + <p> + To secure a suitable vessel was a matter of fundamental importance. There + was no question of having a ship built to our design, for the requisite + expenditure might well have exceeded the whole cost of our Expedition. + Accordingly the best obtainable vessel was purchased, and modified to + fulfil our requirements. Such craft are not to be had in southern waters; + they are only to be found engaged in Arctic whaling and sealing. + </p> + <p> + The primary consideration in the design of a vessel built to navigate amid + the ice is that the hull be very staunch, capable of driving into the pack + and of resisting lateral pressure, if the ice should close in around it. + </p> + <p> + So a thick-walled timber vessel, with adequate stiffening in the + framework, would meet the case. The construction being of wood imparts a + certain elasticity, which is of great advantage in easing the shock of + impacts with floating ice. As has been tragically illustrated in a recent + disaster, the ordinary steel ship would be ripped on its first contact + with the ice. Another device, to obviate the shock and to assist in + forging a way through the floe-ice, is to have the bow cut away below the + water-line. Thus, instead of presenting to the ice a vertical face, which + would immediately arrest the ship and possibly cause considerable damage + on account of the sudden stress of the blow, a sloping, overhanging bow is + adopted. This arrangement enables the bow to rise over the impediment, + with a gradual slackening of speed. The immense weight put upon the ice + crushes it and the ship settles down, moving ahead and gathering speed to + meet the next obstacle. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Plan and Section of S.Y. 'Aurora' + </p> + <p> + Of importance second only to a strong hull is the possession of sails in + addition to engines. The latter are a sine qua non in polar navigation, + whilst sails allow of economy in the consumption of coal, and always + remain as a last resort should the coal-supply be exhausted or the + propeller damaged. + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora', of the Newfoundland sealing fleet, was ultimately purchased + and underwent necessary alterations. She was built in Dundee in 1876, but + though by no means young was still in good condition and capable of + buffeting with the pack for many a year. Also, she was not without a + history, for in the earlier days she was amongst those vessels which + hurried to the relief of the unfortunate Greely expedition. + </p> + <p> + The hull was made of stout oak planks, sheathed with greenheart and lined + with fir. The bow, fashioned on cutaway lines, was a mass of solid wood, + armoured with steel plates. The heavy side-frames were braced and + stiffened by two tiers of horizontal oak beams, upon which were built the + 'tween decks and the main deck. Three bulkheads isolated the fore-peak, + the main hold, the engine-room and the after living-quarters respectively. + </p> + <p> + A hull of such strength would resist a heavy strain, and, should it be + subjected to lateral pressure, would in all probability rise out of harm's + way. However, to be quite certain of this and to ensure safety in the most + extreme case it is necessary that the hull be modelled after the design + adopted by Nansen in the 'Fram'. + </p> + <p> + The principal dimensions were, length one hundred and sixty-five feet, + breadth thirty feet, and depth eighteen feet. + </p> + <p> + The registered tonnage was three hundred and eighty-six, but the actual + carrying capacity we found to be about six hundred tons. + </p> + <p> + The engines, situated aft, were compound, supplied with steam from a + single boiler. The normal power registered was ninety-eight horse-power, + working a four-bladed propeller, driving it at the rate of sixty or + seventy revolutions per minute (six to ten knots per hour). + </p> + <p> + Steam was also laid on to a winch, aft, for handling cargo in the main + hold, and to a forward steam-windlass. The latter was mainly used for + raising the anchor and manipulating the deep-sea dredging-cable. + </p> + <p> + The ship was square on the foremast and schooner-rigged on the main and + mizen masts. + </p> + <p> + Between the engine-room bulkhead and the chain and sail locker was a + spacious hold. Six large steel tanks built into the bottom of the hold + served for the storage of fresh water and at any time when empty could be + filled with seawater, offering a ready means of securing emergency + ballast. + </p> + <p> + On the deck, just forward of the main hatch, was a deckhouse, comprising + cook's galley, steward's pantry and two laboratories. Still farther + forward was a small lamp-room for the storage of kerosene, lamps and other + necessaries. A lofty fo'c'sle-head gave much accommodation for + carpenters', shipwrights' and other stores. Below it, a capacious fo'c'sle + served as quarters for a crew of sixteen men. + </p> + <p> + Aft, the chart-room, captain's cabin and photographic dark-room formed a + block leading up to the bridge, situated immediately in front of the + funnel. Farther aft, behind the engine-room and below the poop deck, was + the ward-room(,) a central space sixteen feet by eight feet, filled by the + dining-table and surrounded by cabins with bunks for twenty persons. + </p> + <p> + From the time the 'Aurora' arrived in London to her departure from + Australia, she was a scene of busy activity, as alterations and + replacements were necessary to fit her for future work. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, stores and gear were being assembled. Purchases were made + and valuable donations received both in Europe and Australia. Many and + varied were the requirements, and some idea of their great multiplicity + will be gained by referring to the appendices dealing with stores, + clothing and instruments. + </p> + <p> + Finally, reference may be made in this chapter to the staff. In no + department can a leader spend time more profitably than in the selection + of the men who are to accomplish the work. Even when the expedition has a + scientific basis, academic distinction becomes secondary in the choice of + men. Fiala, as a result of his Arctic experience, truly says, "Many a man + who is a jolly good fellow in congenial surroundings will become + impatient, selfish and mean when obliged to sacrifice his comfort, curb + his desires and work hard in what seems a losing fight. The first + consideration in the choice of men for a polar campaign should be the + moral quality. Next should come mental and physical powers." + </p> + <p> + For polar work the great desideratum is tempered youth. Although one man + at the age of fifty may be as strong physically as another at the age of + twenty, it is certain that the exceptional man of fifty was also an + exceptional man at twenty. On the average, after about thirty years of + age, the elasticity of the body to rise to the strain of emergency + diminishes, and, when forty years is reached, a man, medically speaking, + reaches his acme. After that, degeneration of the fabric of the body + slowly and maybe imperceptibly sets in. As the difficulties of exploration + in cold regions approximate to the limit of human endurance and often + enough exceed it, it is obvious that the above generalizations must + receive due weight. + </p> + <p> + But though age and with it the whole question of physical fitness must + ever receive primary regard, yet these alone in no wise fit a man for such + an undertaking. The qualifications of mental ability, acquaintance with + the work and sound moral quality have to be essentially borne in mind. The + man of fifty might then be placed on a higher plane than his younger + companion. + </p> + <p> + With regard to alcohol and tobacco, it may be maintained on theoretical + grounds that a man is better without them, but, on the other hand, his + behaviour in respect to such habits is often an index to his self-control. + </p> + <p> + Perfection is attained when every man individually works with the + determination to sacrifice all personal predispositions to the welfare of + the whole. + </p> + <p> + Ours proved to be a very happy selection. The majority of the men chosen + as members of the land parties were young graduates of the Commonwealth + and New Zealand Universities, and almost all were representative of + Australasia. Among the exceptions was Mr. Frank Wild, who was appointed + leader of one of the Antarctic parties. Wild had distinguished himself in + the South on two previous occasions, and now is in the unique position of + being, as it were, the oldest resident of Antarctica. Our sojourn together + at Cape Royds with Shackleton had acquainted me with Wild's high merits as + an explorer and leader. + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant B. E. S. Ninnis of the Royal Fusiliers, Dr. X. Mertz, an expert + ski-runner and mountaineer, and Mr. F. H. Bickerton in charge of the + air-tractor sledge, were appointed in London. Reference has already been + made to Captain Davis: to him were left all arrangements regarding the + ship's complement. + </p> + <p> + A "Who's who" of the staff appears as an appendix. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II THE LAST DAYS AT HOBART AND THE VOYAGE TO MACQUARIE ISLAND + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us; + Let us journey to a lonely land I know. + There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to + guide us. + And the Wild is calling, calling—Let us go."—SERVICE. +</pre> + <p> + It will be convenient to pick up the thread of our story upon the point of + the arrival of the 'Aurora' in Hobart, after her long voyage from London + during the latter part of the year 1911. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis had written from Cape Town stating that he expected to reach + Hobart on November 4. In company with Mr. C. C. Eitel, secretary of the + Expedition, I proceeded to Hobart, arriving on November 2. + </p> + <p> + Early in the morning of November 4 the Harbour Board received news that a + wooden vessel, barquentine-rigged, with a crow's-nest on the mainmast, was + steaming up the D'Entrecasteaux Channel. This left no doubt as to her + identity and so, later in the day, we joined Mr. Martelli, the assistant + harbour-master, and proceeded down the river, meeting the 'Aurora' below + the quarantine ground. + </p> + <p> + We heard that they had had a very rough passage after leaving the Cape. + This was expected, for several liners, travelling by the same route, and + arriving in Australian waters a few days before, had reported + exceptionally heavy weather. + </p> + <p> + Before the ship had reached Queen's Wharf, the berth generously provided + by the Harbour Board, the Greenland dogs were transferred to the + quarantine ground, and with them went Dr. Mertz and Lieutenant Ninnis, who + gave up all their time during the stay in Hobart to the care of those + important animals. A feeling of relief spread over the whole ship's + company as the last dog passed over the side, for travelling with a deck + cargo of dogs is not the most enviable thing from a sailor's point of + view. Especially is this the case in a sailing-vessel where room is + limited, and consequently dogs and ropes are mixed indiscriminately. + </p> + <p> + Evening was just coming on when we reached the wharf, and, as we ranged + alongside, the Premier, Sir Elliot Lewis, came on board and bade us + welcome to Tasmania. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis had much to tell, for more than four months had elapsed + since my departure from London, when he had been left in charge of the + ship and of the final arrangements. + </p> + <p> + At the docks there had been delays and difficulties in the execution of + the necessary alterations to the ship, in consequence of strikes and the + Coronation festivities. It was so urgent to reach Australia in time for + the ensuing Antarctic summer, that the recaulking of the decks and other + improvements were postponed, to be executed on the voyage or upon arrival + in Australia. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis seized the earliest possible opportunity of departure, and + the 'Aurora' dropped down the Thames at midnight on July 27, 1911. As she + threaded her way through the crowded traffic by the dim light of a + thousand flickering flames gleaming through the foggy atmosphere, the dogs + entered a protest peculiar to their "husky" kind. After a short + preliminary excursion through a considerable range of the scale, they + picked up a note apparently suitable to all and settled down to many hours + of incessant and monotonous howling, as is the custom of these dogs when + the fit takes them. It was quite evident that they were not looking + forward to another sea voyage. The pandemonium made it all but impossible + to hear the orders given for working the ship, and a collision was + narrowly averted. During those rare lulls, when the dogs' repertoire + temporarily gave out, innumerable sailors on neighbouring craft, wakened + from their sleep, made the most of such opportunities to hurl imprecations + in a thoroughly nautical fashion upon the ship, her officers, and each and + every one of the crew. + </p> + <p> + On the way to Cardiff, where a full supply of coal was to be shipped, a + gale was encountered, and much water came on board, resulting in damage to + the stores. Some water leaked into the living quarters and, on the whole, + several very uncomfortable days were spent. Such inconvenience at the + outset undoubtedly did good, for many of the crew, evidently not prepared + for emergency conditions, left at Cardiff. The scratch crew with which the + 'Aurora'journeyed to Hobart composed for the most part of replacements + made at Cardiff, resulted in some permanent appointments of unexpected + value to the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + At Cardiff the coal strike caused delay, but eventually some five hundred + tons of the Crown Fuel Company's briquettes were got on board, and a final + leave taken of English shores on August 4. + </p> + <p> + Cape Town, the only intermediate port of call, was reached on September + 24, after a comparatively rapid and uneventful voyage. A couple of days + sufficed to load coal, water and fresh provisions, and the course was then + laid for Hobart. + </p> + <p> + Rough weather soon intervened, and Lieutenant Ninnis and Dr. Mertz, who + travelled out by the 'Aurora' in charge of the sledging-dogs, had their + time fully occupied, for the wet conditions began to tell on their + charges. + </p> + <p> + On leaving London there were forty-nine of these Greenland, Esquimaux + sledging-dogs of which the purchase and selection had been made through + the offices of the Danish Geographical Society. From Greenland they were + taken to Copenhagen, and from thence transhipped to London, where Messrs. + Spratt took charge of them at their dog-farm until the date of departure. + During the voyage they were fed on the finest dog-cakes, but they + undoubtedly felt the need of fresh meat and fish to withstand the cold and + wet. In the rough weather of the latter part of the voyage water broke + continually over the deck, so lowering their vitality that a number died + from seizures, not properly understood at the time. In each case death was + sudden, and preceded by similar symptoms. An apparently healthy dog would + drop down in a fit, dying in a few minutes, or during another fit within a + few days. Epidemics, accompanied by similar symptoms, are said to be + common amongst these dogs in the Arctic regions, but no explanation is + given as to the nature of the disease. During a later stage of the + Expedition, when nearing Antarctica, several more of the dogs were + similarly stricken. These were examined by Drs. McLean and Jones, and the + results of post-mortems showed that in one case death was due to + gangrenous appendicitis, in two others to acute gastritis and colitis. + </p> + <p> + The dog first affected caused some consternation amongst the crew, for, + after being prostrated on the deck by a fit, it rose and rushed about + snapping to right and left. The cry of "mad dog" was raised. Not many + seconds had elapsed before all the deck hands were safely in the rigging, + displaying more than ordinary agility in the act. At short intervals, + other men, roused from watch below appeared at the fo'c'sle companion-way. + To these the situation at first appeared comic, and called forth jeers + upon their faint-hearted shipmates. The next moment, on the dog dashing + into view, they found a common cause with their fellows and sprang aloft. + Ere many minutes had elapsed the entire crew were in the rigging, much to + the amusement of the officers. By this time the dog had disappeared + beneath the fo'c'sle head, and Mertz and Ninnis entered, intending to + dispatch it. A shot was fired and word passed that the deed was done: + thereupon the crew descended, pressing forward to share in the laurels. + Then it was that Ninnis, in the uncertain light, spying a dog of similar + markings wedged in between some barrels, was filled with doubt and called + out to Mertz that he had shot the wrong dog. In a flash the crew had once + more climbed to safety. It was some time after the confirmation of the + first execution that they could be prevailed upon to descend. + </p> + <p> + Several litters of puppies were born on the voyage, but all except one + succumbed to the hardships of the passage. + </p> + <p> + The voyage from Cardiff to Hobart occupied eighty-eight days. + </p> + <p> + The date of departure south was fixed for 4 P.M. of Saturday, December 2, + and a truly appalling amount of work had to be done before then. + </p> + <p> + Most of the staff had been preparing themselves for special duties; in + this the Expedition was assisted by many friends. + </p> + <p> + A complete, detailed acknowledgment of all the kind help received would + occupy much space. We must needs pass on with the assurance that our best + thanks are extended to one and all. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the month of November, the staff continued to arrive in + contingents at Hobart, immediately busying themselves in their own + departments, and in sorting over the many thousands of packages in the + great Queen's Wharf shed. Wild was placed in charge, and all entered + heartily into the work. The exertion of it was just what was wanted to + make us fit, and prepared for the sudden and arduous work of discharging + cargo at the various bases. It also gave the opportunity of personally + gauging certain qualities of the men, which are not usually evoked by a + university curriculum. + </p> + <p> + Some five thousand two hundred packages were in the shed, to be sorted + over and checked. The requirements of three Antarctic bases, and one at + Macquarie Island were being provided for, and consequently the most + careful supervision was necessary to prevent mistakes, especially as the + omission of a single article might fundamentally affect the work of a + whole party. To assist in discriminating the impedimenta, coloured bands + were painted round the packages, distinctive of the various bases. + </p> + <p> + It had been arranged that, wherever possible, everything should be packed + in cases of a handy size, to facilitate unloading and transportation; each + about fifty to seventy pounds in weight. + </p> + <p> + In addition to other distinguishing marks, every package bore a different + number, and the detailed contents were listed in a schedule for reference. + </p> + <p> + Concurrently with the progress of this work, the ship was again + overhauled, repairs effected, and many deficiencies made good. The labours + of the shipwrights did not interfere with the loading, which went ahead + steadily during the last fortnight in November. + </p> + <p> + The tanks in the hold not used for our supply of fresh water were packed + with reserve stores for the ship. The remainder of the lower hold and the + bunkers were filled with coal. Slowly the contents of the shed diminished + as they were transfered to the 'tween decks. Then came the overflow. + Eventually, every available space in the ship was flooded with a + complicated assemblage of gear, ranging from the comparatively + undamageable wireless masts occupying a portion of the deck amidships, to + a selection of prime Australian cheeses which filled one of the cabins, + and pervaded the ward-room with an odour which remained one of its + permanent associations. + </p> + <p> + Yet, heterogeneous and ill-assorted as our cargo may have appeared to the + crowds of curious onlookers, Captain Davis had arranged for the stowage of + everything with a nicety which did him credit. The complete effects of the + four bases were thus kept separate, and available in whatever order was + required. Furthermore, the removal of one unit would not break the stowage + of the remainder, nor disturb the trim of the ship. + </p> + <p> + At a late date the air-tractor sledge arrived. The body was contained in + one huge case which, though awkward, was comparatively light, the case + weighing much more than the contents. This was securely lashed above the + maindeck, resting on the fo'c'sle and two boat-skids. + </p> + <p> + As erroneous ideas have been circulated regarding the "aeroplane sledge," + or more correctly "air-tractor sledge," a few words in explanation will + not be out of place. + </p> + <p> + This machine was originally an R.E.P. monoplane, constructed by Messrs. + Vickers and Co., but supplied with a special detachable, sledge-runner + undercarriage for use in the Antarctic, converting it into a tractor for + hauling sledges. It was intended that so far as its role as a flier was + concerned, it would be chiefly exercised for the purpose of drawing public + attention to the Expedition in Australia, where aviation was then almost + unknown. With this object in view, it arrived in Adelaide at an early date + accompanied by the aviator, Lieutenant Watkins, assisted by Bickerton. + There it unfortunately came to grief, and Watkins and Wild narrowly + escaped death in the accident. It was then decided to make no attempt to + fly in the Antarctic; the wings were left in Australia and Lieutenant + Watkins returned to England. In the meantime, the machine was repaired and + forwarded to Hobart. + </p> + <p> + Air-tractors are great consumers of petrol of the highest quality. This + demand, in addition to the requirements of two wireless plants and a + motor-launch, made it necessary to take larger quantities than we liked of + this dangerous cargo. Four thousand gallons of "Shell" benzine and one + thousand three hundred gallons of "Shell" kerosene, packed in the usual + four-gallon export tins, were carried as a deck cargo, monopolizing the + whole of the poop-deck. + </p> + <p> + For the transport of the requirements of the Macquarie Island Base, the + s.s. 'Toroa', a small steam-packet of one hundred and twenty tons, trading + between Melbourne and Tasmanian ports, was chartered. It was arranged that + this auxiliary should leave Hobart several days after the 'Aurora', so as + to allow us time, before her arrival, to inspect the island, and to select + a suitable spot for the location of the base. As she was well provided + with passenger accommodation, it was arranged that the majority of the + land party should journey by her as far as Macquarie Island. + </p> + <p> + The Governor of Tasmania, Sir Harry Barron, the Premier, Sir Elliot Lewis, + and the citizens of Hobart extended to us the greatest hospitality during + our stay, and, when the time came, gave us a hearty send-off. + </p> + <p> + Saturday, December 2 arrived, and final preparations were made. All the + staff were united for the space of an hour at luncheon. Then began the + final leave-taking. "God speed" messages were received from far and wide, + and intercessory services were held in the Cathedrals of Sydney and + Hobart. + </p> + <p> + We were greatly honoured at this time by the reception of kind wishes from + Queen Alexandra and, at an earlier date, from his Majesty the King. + </p> + <p> + Proud of such universal sympathy and interest, we felt stimulated to + greater exertions. + </p> + <p> + On arrival on board, I found Mr. Martelli, who was to pilot us down the + river, already on the bridge. A vast crowd blockaded the wharf to give us + a parting cheer. + </p> + <p> + At 4 P.M. sharp, the telegraph was rung for the engines, and, with a final + expression of good wishes from the Governor and Lady Barron, we glided out + into the channel, where our supply of dynamite and cartridges was taken on + board. Captain G. S. Nares, whose kindness we had previously known, had + the H.M.S. 'Fantome' dressed in our honour, and lusty cheering reached us + from across the water. + </p> + <p> + As we proceeded down the river to the Quarantine Station where the dogs + were to be taken off, Hobart looked its best, with the glancing sails of + pleasure craft skimming near the foreshores, and backed by the stately, + sombre mass of Mount Wellington. The "land of strawberries and cream", as + the younger members of the Expedition had come to regard it, was for ever + to live pleasantly in our memories, to be recalled a thousand times during + the adventurous months which followed. Mr. E. Joyce, whose name is + familiar in connexion with previous Antarctic expeditions, and who had + travelled out from London on business of the Expedition, was waiting in + mid-stream with thirty-eight dogs, delivering them from a ketch. These + were passed over the side and secured at intervals on top of the deck + cargo. + </p> + <p> + The engines again began to throb, not to cease until the arrival at + Macquarie Island. A few miles lower down the channel, the Premier, and a + number of other friends and well-wishers who had followed in a small + steamer, bade us a final adieu. + </p> + <p> + Behind lay a sparkling seascape and the Tasmanian littoral; before, the + blue southern ocean heaving with an ominous swell. A glance at the + barograph showed a continuous fall, and a telegram from Mr. Hunt, Head of + the Commonwealth Weather Bureau, received a few hours previously, informed + us of a storm-centre south of New Zealand, and the expectation of fresh + south-westerly winds. + </p> + <p> + The piles of loose gear presented an indescribable scene of chaos, and, + even as we rolled lazily in the increasing swell, the water commenced to + run about the decks. There was no time to be lost in securing movable + articles and preparing the ship for heavy weather. All hands set to work. + </p> + <p> + On the main deck the cargo was brought up flush with the top of the + bulwarks, and consisted of the wireless masts, two huts, a large + motor-launch, cases of dog biscuits and many other sundries. Butter to the + extent of a couple of tons was accommodated chiefly on the roof of the + main deck-house, where it was out of the way of the dogs. The roof of the + chart-house, which formed an extension of the bridge proper, did not + escape, for the railing offered facilities for lashing sledges; besides, + there was room for tide-gauges, meteorological screens, and cases of fresh + eggs and apples. Somebody happened to think of space unoccupied in the + meteorological screens, and a few fowls were housed therein. + </p> + <p> + On the poop-deck there were the benzine, sledges, and the chief magnetic + observatory. An agglomeration of instruments and private gear rendered the + ward-room well nigh impossible of access, and it was some days before + everything was jammed away into corners. An unoccupied five-berth cabin + was filled with loose instruments, while other packages were stowed into + the occupied cabins, so as to almost defeat the purpose for which they + were intended. + </p> + <p> + The deck was so encumbered that only at rare intervals was it visible. + However, by our united efforts everything was well secured by 8 P.M. + </p> + <p> + It was dusk, and the distant highlands were limned in silhouette against + the twilight sky. A tiny, sparkling lamp glimmered from Signal Hill its + warm farewell. From the swaying poop we flashed back, "Good-bye, all snug + on board." + </p> + <p> + Onward with a dogged plunge our laden ship would press. If 'Fram' were + "Forward," <i>she</i> was to be hereafter our 'Aurora' of "Hope"—the + Dawn of undiscovered lands. + </p> + <p> + Home and the past were effaced in the shroud of darkness, and thought + leapt to the beckoning South—the "land of the midnight sun." + </p> + <p> + During the night the wind and sea rose steadily, developing into a full + gale. In order to make Macquarie Island, it was important not to allow the + ship to drive too far to the east, as at all times the prevailing winds in + this region are from the west. Partly on this account, and partly because + of the extreme severity of the gale, the ship was hove to with head to + wind, wallowing in mountainous seas. Such a storm, witnessed from a large + vessel, would be an inspiring sight, but was doubly so in a small craft, + especially where the natural buoyancy had been largely impaired by + overloading. With an unprecedented quantity of deck cargo, amongst which + were six thousand gallons of benzine, kerosene and spirit, in tins which + were none too strong, we might well have been excused a lively anxiety + during those days. It seemed as if no power on earth could save the loss + of at least part of the deck cargo. Would it be the indispensable huts + amidships, or would a sea break on the benzine aft and flood us with + inflammable liquid and gas? + </p> + <p> + By dint of strenuous efforts and good seamanship, Captain Davis with his + officers and crew held their own. The land parties assisted in the general + work, constantly tightening up the lashings and lending "beef," a sailor's + term for man-power, wherever required. For this purpose the members of the + land parties were divided into watches, so that there were always a number + patrolling the decks. + </p> + <p> + Most of us passed through a stage of sea-sickness, but, except in the case + of two or three, it soon passed off. Seas deluged all parts of the ship. A + quantity of ashes was carried down into the bilge-water pump and + obstructed the steam-pump. Whilst this was being cleared, the emergency + deck pumps had to be requisitioned. The latter were available for working + either by hand-power or by chain-gearing from the after-winch. + </p> + <p> + The deck-plug of one of the fresh-water tanks was carried away and, before + it was noticed, sea-water had entered to such an extent as to render our + supply unfit for drinking. Thus we were, henceforth, on a strictly limited + water ration. + </p> + <p> + The wind increased from bad to worse, and great seas continued to rise + until their culmination on the morning of December 5, when one came aboard + on the starboard quarter, smashed half the bridge and carried it away. + Toucher was the officer on watch, and no doubt thought himself lucky in + being, at the time, on the other half of the bridge. + </p> + <p> + The deck-rings holding the motor-launch drew, the launch itself was sprung + and its decking stove-in. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of December 8 we found ourselves in latitude 49 degrees 56 + minutes S. and longitude 152 degrees 28' E., with the weather so far + abated that we were able to steer a course for Macquarie Island. + </p> + <p> + During the heavy weather, food had been prepared only with the greatest + difficulty. The galley was deluged time and again. It was enough to + dishearten any cook, repeatedly finding himself amongst kitchen debris of + all kinds, including pots and pans full and empty. Nor did the + difficulties end in the galley, for food which survived until its arrival + on the table, though not allowed much time for further mishap, often ended + in a disagreeable mass on the floor or, tossed by a lurch of more than + usual suddenness, entered an adjoining cabin. From such localities the + elusive piece de resistance was often rescued. + </p> + <p> + As we approached our rendezvous, whale-birds** appeared. During the heavy + weather, Mother Carey's chickens only were seen, but, as the wind abated, + the majestic wandering albatross, the sooty albatross and the mollymawk + followed in our wake. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** For the specific names refer to Appendix which is a glossary of +special and unfamiliar terms. +</pre> + <p> + Whales were observed spouting, but at too great a distance to be + definitely recognized. + </p> + <p> + At daybreak on December 11 land began to show up, and by 6 A.M. we were + some sixteen miles off the west coast of Macquarie Island, bearing on + about the centre of its length. + </p> + <p> + In general shape it is long and narrow, the length over all being + twenty-one miles. A reef runs out for several miles at both extremities of + the main island, reappearing again some miles beyond in isolated rocky + islets: the Bishop and Clerk nineteen miles to the southward and the Judge + and Clerk eight miles to the north. + </p> + <p> + The land everywhere rises abruptly from the sea or from an exaggerated + beach to an undulating plateau-like interior, reaching a maximum elevation + of one thousand four hundred and twenty-five feet. Nowhere is there a + harbour in the proper sense of the word, though six or seven anchorages + are recognized. + </p> + <p> + The island is situated in about 55 degrees S. latitude, and the climate is + comparatively cold, but it is the prevalence of strong winds that is the + least desirable feature of its weather. + </p> + <p> + Sealing, so prosperous in the early days, is now carried on in a small way + only, by a New Zealander, who keeps a few men stationed at the island + during part of the year for the purpose of rendering down sea elephant and + penguin blubber. Their establishment was known to be at the north end of + the island near the best of the anchorages. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis had visited the island in the 'Nimrod', and was acquainted + with the three anchorages, which are all on the east side and sheltered + from the prevailing westerlies. One of the old-time sealers had reported a + cove suitable for small craft at the south-western corner, but the + information was scanty, and recent mariners had avoided that side of the + island. On the morning of our approach the breeze was from the south-east, + and, being favourable, Captain Davis proposed a visit. + </p> + <p> + By noon, Caroline Cove, as it is called, was abreast of us. Its small + dimensions, and the fact that a rocky islet for the most part blocks the + entrance, at first caused some misgivings as to its identity. + </p> + <p> + A boat was lowered, and a party of us rowed in towards the entrance, + sounding at intervals to ascertain whether the 'Aurora' could make use of + it, should our inspection prove it a suitable locality for the land + station. + </p> + <p> + We passed through a channel not more than eighty yards wide, but with deep + water almost to the rocks on either side. A beautiful inlet now opened to + view. Thick tussock-grass matted the steep hillsides, and the rocky + shores, between the tide-marks as well as in the depths below, sprouted + with a profuse growth of brown kelp. Leaping out of the water in scores + around us were penguins of several varieties, in their actions reminding + us of nothing so much as shoals of fish chased by sharks. Penguins were in + thousands on the uprising cliffs, and from rookeries near and far came an + incessant din. At intervals along the shore sea elephants disported their + ungainly masses in the sunlight. Circling above us in anxious haste, + sea-birds of many varieties gave warning of our near approach to their + nests. It was the invasion by man of an exquisite scene of primitive + nature. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + After the severe weather experienced, the relaxation made us all feel like + a band of schoolboys out on a long vacation. + </p> + <p> + A small sandy beach barred the inlet, and the whaleboat was directed + towards it. We were soon grating on the sand amidst an army of Royal + penguins; picturesque little fellows, with a crest and eyebrows of long + golden-yellow feathers. A few yards from the massed ranks of the penguins + was a mottled sea-leopard, which woke up and slid into the sea as we + approached. + </p> + <p> + Several hours were spent examining the neighbourhood. Webb and Kennedy + took a set of magnetic observations, while others hoisted some cases of + stores on to a rocky knob to form a provision depot, as it was quickly + decided that the northern end of the island was likely to be more suitable + for a permanent station. + </p> + <p> + The Royal penguins were almost as petulant as the Adelie penguins which we + were to meet further South. They surrounded us, pecked at our legs and + chattered with an audacity which defies description. It was discovered + that they resented any attempt to drive them into the sea, and it was only + after long persuasion that a bevy took to the water. This was a sign of a + general capitulation, and some hundreds immediately followed, jostling + each other in their haste, squawking, whirring their flippers, splashing + and churning the water, reminding one of a crowd of miniature + surf-bathers. We followed the files of birds marching inland, along the + course of a tumbling stream, until at an elevation of some five hundred + feet, on a flattish piece of ground, a huge rookery opened out—acres + and acres of birds and eggs. + </p> + <p> + In one corner of the bay were nests of giant petrels in which sat huge + downy young, about the size of a barn-door fowl, resembling the grotesque, + fluffy toys which might be expected to hang on a Christmas-tree. + </p> + <p> + Here and there on the beach and on the grass wandered bright-coloured + Maori hens. On the south side of the bay, in a low, peaty area overgrown + with tussock-grass, were scores of sea elephants, wallowing in bog-holes + or sleeping at their ease. + </p> + <p> + Sea elephants, at one time found in immense numbers on all sub-antarctic + islands, are now comparatively rare, even to the degree of extinction, in + many of their old haunts. This is the result of ruthless slaughter + prosecuted especially bY sealers in the early days. At the present time + Macquarie Island is more favoured by them than probably any other known + locality. The name by which they are popularly known refers to their + elephantine proportions and to the fact that, in the case of the old + males, the nasal regions are enormously developed, expanding when in a + state of excitement to form a short, trunk-like appendage. They have been + recorded up to twenty feet in length, and such a specimen would weigh + about four tons. + </p> + <p> + Arriving on the 'Aurora' in the evening, we learnt that the ship's company + had had an adventure which might have been most serious. It appeared that + after dropping us at the entrance to Caroline Cove, the ship was allowed + to drift out to sea under the influence of the off-shore wind. When about + one-third of a mile north-west of the entrance, a violent shock was felt, + and she slid over a rock which rose up out of deep water to within about + fourteen feet of high-water level; no sign of it appearing on the surface + on account of the tranquil state of the sea. Much apprehension was felt + for the hull, but as no serious leak started, the escape was considered a + fortunate one. A few soundings had been made proving a depth of four + hundred fathoms within one and a half miles of the land. + </p> + <p> + A course was now set for the northern end of the island. Dangerous-looking + reefs ran out from many headlands, and cascades of water could be seen + falling hundreds of feet from the highlands to the narrow coastal flats. + </p> + <p> + The anchorage most used is that known as North-East Bay, lying on the + eastern side of a low spit joining the main mass of the island, to an + almost isolated outpost in the form of a flat-topped hill—Wireless + Hill—some three-quarters of a mile farther north. It is practically + an open roadstead, but, as the prevailing winds blow on to the other side + of the island, quiet water can be nearly always expected. + </p> + <p> + However, when we arrived at North-East Bay on the morning following our + adventure; a stiff south-east breeze was blowing, and the wash on the + beach put landing out of the question. Captain Davis ran in as near the + coast as he could safely venture and dropped anchor, pending the + moderation of the wind. + </p> + <p> + On the leeward slopes of a low ridge, pushing itself out on to the + southern extremity of the spit, could be seen two small huts, but no sign + of human life. This was not surprising as it was only seven o'clock. Below + the huts, upon low surf-covered rocks running out from the beach, lay a + small schooner partly broken up and evidently a recent victim. A mile to + the southward, fragments of another wreck protruded from the sand. + </p> + <p> + We were discussing wrecks and the grisly toll which is levied by these + dangerous and uncharted shores, when a human figure appeared in front of + one of the huts. After surveying us for a moment, he disappeared within to + reappear shortly afterwards, followed by a stream of others rushing hither + and thither; just as if he had disturbed a hornets' nest. After such an + exciting demonstration we awaited the next move with some expectancy. + </p> + <p> + Planks and barrels were brought on to the beach and a flagstaff was + hoisted. Then one of the party mounted on the barrel, and told us by flag + signals that the ship on the beach was the 'Clyde', which had recently + been wrecked, and that all hands were safely on shore, but requiring + assistance. Besides the shipwrecked crew, there were half a dozen men who + resided on the island during the summer months for the purpose of + collecting blubber. + </p> + <p> + The sealers tried repeatedly to come out to us, but as often as it was + launched their boat was washed up again on the beach, capsizing them into + the water. At length they signalled that a landing could be made on the + opposite side of the spit, so the anchor was raised and the ship steamed + round the north end of the island, to what Captain Davis proposed should + be named Hasselborough Bay, in recognition of the discoverer of the + island. This proved an admirable anchorage, for the wind remained from the + east and south-east during the greater part of our stay. + </p> + <p> + The sealers pushed their boat across the spit, and, launching it in calmer + water, came out to us, meeting the 'Aurora' some three miles off the land. + The anchor was let go about one mile and a half from the head of the bay. + </p> + <p> + News was exchanged with the sealers. It appeared that there had been much + speculation as to what sort of a craft we were; visits of ships, other + than those sent down specially to convey their oil to New Zealand, being + practically unknown. For a while they suspected the 'Aurora' of being an + alien sealer, and had prepared to defend their rights to the local + fishery. + </p> + <p> + All was well now, however, and information and assistance were freely + volunteered. They were greatly relieved to hear that our auxiliary vessel, + the 'Toroa' was expected immediately, and would be available for taking + the ship-wrecked crew back to civilization. + </p> + <p> + Owing to the loss of the 'Clyde', a large shipment of oil in barrels lay + piled upon the beach with every prospect of destruction, just at a time + when the realization of its value would be most desirable, to make good + the loss sustained by the wreck. I decided, therefore, in view of their + hospitality, to make arrangements with the captain of the 'Toroa' to take + back a load of the oil, upon terms only sufficient to recoup us for the + extension of the charter. + </p> + <p> + In company with Ainsworth, Hannam and others, I went ashore to select a + site for the station. As strong westerly winds were to be expected during + the greater part of the year, it was necessary to erect buildings in the + lee of substantial break-winds. Several sites for a hut convenient to a + serviceable landing-place were inspected at the north end of the beach. + The hut was eventually erected in the lee of a large mass of rock, rising + out of the grass-covered sandy flat at the north end of the spit. + </p> + <p> + It would have been much handier in every way, both in assembling the + engines and masts and subsequently in operating the wireless station, had + the wireless plant been erected on the beach adjacent to the living-hut. + On the other hand, a position on top of the hill had the advantage of a + free outlook and of increased electrical potential, allowing of a shorter + length of mast. In addition the ground in this situation proved to be + peaty and sodden, and therefore a good conductor, thus presenting an + excellent "earth" from the wireless standpoint. In short, the advantages + of the hill-site outweighed its disadvantages. Of the latter the most + obvious was the difficult transportation of the heavy masts, + petrol-engine, dynamo, induction-generator and other miscellaneous gear, + from the beach to the summit—a vertical height of three hundred + feet. + </p> + <p> + To facilitate this latter work the sealers placed at our disposal a + "flying fox" which ran from sea-level to the top of Wireless Hill, and + which they had erected for the carriage of blubber. On inspecting it, Wild + reported that it was serviceable, but would first require to be + strengthened. He immediately set about effecting this with the help of a + party. + </p> + <p> + Hurley now discovered that he had accidentally left one of his + cinematograph lenses on a rock where he had been working in Caroline Cove. + As it was indispensable, and there was little prospect of the weather + allowing of another visit by the ship, it was decided that he should go on + a journey overland to recover it. One of the sealers, Hutchinson by name, + who had been to Caroline Cove and knew the best route to take, kindly + volunteered to accompany Hurley. The party was eventually increased by the + addition of Harrisson, who was to keep a look-out for matters of + biological interest. They started off at noon on December 13. + </p> + <p> + Although the greater part of the stores for the Macquarie Island party + were to arrive by the Toroa there were a few tons on board the 'Aurora'. + These and the dogs were landed as quickly as possible. How glad the poor + animals were to be once more on solid earth! It was out of the question to + let them loose, so they were tethered at intervals along a heavy cable, + anchored at both ends amongst the tussock-grass. Ninnis took up his abode + in the sealers' hut so that he might the better look after their wants, + which centred chiefly on sea elephant meat, and that in large quantities. + Webb joined Ninnis, as he intended to take full sets of magnetic + observations at several stations in the vicinity. + </p> + <p> + Bickerton and Gillies got the motor-launch into good working order, and by + means of it the rest of us conveyed ashore several tons of coal + briquettes, the benzine, kerosene, instruments and the wireless masts, by + noon on December 13. + </p> + <p> + Everything but the requirements of the wireless station was landed on the + spit, as near the north-east corner as the surf would allow. Fortunately, + reefs ran out from the shore at intervals, and calmer water could be found + in their lee. All gear for the wireless station was taken to a spot about + half a mile to the north-west at the foot of Wireless Hill, where the + "flying fox" was situated. Just at that spot there was a landing-place at + the head of a charming little boat harbour, formed by numerous + kelp-covered rocky reefs rising at intervals above the level of high + water. These broke the swell, so that in most weathers calm water was + assured at the landing-place. + </p> + <p> + This boat harbour was a fascinating spot. The western side was peopled by + a rookery of blue-eyed cormorants; scattered nests of white gulls relieved + the sombre appearance of the reefs on the opposite side: whilst gentoo + penguins in numbers were busy hatching their eggs on the sloping ground + beyond. Skua-gulls and giant petrels were perched here and there amongst + the rocks, watching for an opportunity of marauding the nests of the + non-predacious birds. Sea elephants raised their massive, dripping heads + in shoal and channel. The dark reefs, running out into the pellucid water, + supported a vast growth of a snake-like form of kelp, whose octopus-like + tentacles, many yards in length, writhed yellow and brown to the swing of + the surge, and gave the foreground an indescribable weirdness. I stood + looking out to sea from here one evening, soon after sunset, the launch + lazily rolling in the swell, and the 'Aurora' in the offing, while the + rich tints of the afterglow paled in the south-west. + </p> + <p> + I envied Wild and his party, whose occupation in connexion with the + "flying fox" kept them permanently camped at this spot. + </p> + <p> + The 'Toroa' made her appearance on the afternoon of December 13, and came + to anchor about half a mile inside the 'Aurora'. Her departure had been + delayed by the bad weather. Leaving Hobart late on December 7, she had + anchored off Bruni Island awaiting the moderation of the sea. The journey + was resumed on the morning of the 9th, and the passage made in fine + weather. She proved a handy craft for work of the kind, and Captain + Holliman, the master, was well used to the dangers of uncharted coastal + waters. + </p> + <p> + Within a few minutes of her arrival, a five-ton motor-boat of shallow + draught was launched and unloading commenced. + </p> + <p> + Those of the staff arriving by the 'Toroa' were housed ashore with the + sealers, as, when everybody was on board, the 'Aurora' was uncomfortably + congested. Fifty sheep were taken on shore to feed on the rank grass until + our departure. A large part of the cargo consisted of coal for the + 'Aurora'. This was already partly bagged, and in that form was loaded into + the launches and whale-boats; the former towing the latter to their + destination. Thus a continuous stream of coal and stores was passing from + ship to ship, and from the ships to the several landing-places on shore. + As soon as the after-hold on the 'Toroa' was cleared, barrels of sea + elephant oil were brought off in rafts and loaded aft, simultaneously with + the unloading forward. + </p> + <p> + We kept at the work as long as possible—about sixteen hours a day + including a short interval for lunch. There were twenty-five of the land + party available for general work, and with some assistance from the ship's + crew the work went forward at a rapid rate. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 15th, after giving final instructions to Eitel, who + had come thus far and was returning as arranged, the 'Toroa' weighed + anchor and we parted with a cheer. + </p> + <p> + The transportation of the wireless equipment to the top of the hill had + been going on simultaneously with the un-loading of the ships. Now, + however, all were able to concentrate upon it, and the work went forward + very rapidly. + </p> + <p> + All the wireless instruments, and much of the other paraphernalia of the + Macquarie Island party had been packed in the barrels, as it was expected + that they would have to be rafted ashore through the surf. Fortunately, + the weather continued to "hold" from an easterly direction, and everything + was able to be landed in the comparatively calm waters of Hasselborough + Bay; a circumstance which the islanders assured us was quite a rare thing. + The wireless masts were rafted ashore. These were of oregon pine, each + composed of four sections. + </p> + <p> + Digging the pits for bedding the heavy, wooden "dead men," and erecting + the wireless masts, the engine-hut and the operating-hut provided plenty + of work for all. Here was as busy a scene as one could witness anywhere—some + with the picks and shovels, others with hammers and nails, sailors + splicing ropes and fitting masts, and a stream of men hauling the loads up + from the sea-shore to their destination on the summit. + </p> + <p> + Some details of the working of the "flying fox" will be of interest. The + distance between the lower and upper terminals was some eight hundred + feet. This was spanned by two steel-wire carrying cables, secured above by + "dead men" sunk in the soil, and below by a turn around a huge rock which + outcropped amongst the tussock-grass on the flat, some fifty yards from + the head of the boat harbour. For hauling up the loads, a thin wire line, + with a pulley-block at either extremity, rolling one on each of the + carrying wires, passed round a snatch-block at the upper station. It was + of such a length that when the loading end was at the lower station, the + counterpoise end was in position to descend at the other. Thus a freight + was dispatched to the top of the hill by filling a bag, acting as + counterpoise, with earth, until slightly in excess of the weight of the + top load; then off it would start gathering speed as it went. + </p> + <p> + Several devices were developed for arresting the pace as the freight + neared the end of its journey, but accidents were always liable to occur + if the counterpoise were unduly loaded. Wild was injured by one of these + brake-devices, which consisted of a bar of iron lying on the ground about + thirty yards in front of the terminus, and attached by a rope with a + loose-running noose to the down-carrying wire. On the arrival of the + counterpoise at that point on the wire, its speed would be checked owing + to the drag exerted. On the occasion referred to, the rope was struck with + such velocity that the iron bar was jerked into the air and struck Wild a + solid blow on the thigh. Though incapacitated for a few days, he continued + to supervise at the lower terminal. + </p> + <p> + The larger sections of the wireless masts gave the greatest trouble, as + they were not only heavy but awkward. A special arrangement was necessary + for all loads exceeding one hundredweight, as the single wire + carrier-cables were not sufficiently strong. In such cases both + carrier-cables were lashed together making a single support, the hauling + being done by a straight pull on the top of the hill. The hauling was + carried out to the accompaniment of chanties, and these helped to relieve + the strain of the Work. It was a familiar sight to see a string of twenty + men on the hauling-line scaring the skua-gulls with popular choruses like + "A' roving" and "Ho, boys, pull her along." In calm weather the parties at + either terminal could communicate by shouting but were much assisted by + megaphones improvised from a pair of leggings. + </p> + <p> + Considering the heavy weights handled and the speed at which the work was + done, we were fortunate in suffering only one breakage, and that might + have been more serious than it proved. The mishap in question occurred to + the generator. In order to lighten the load, the rotor had been taken out. + When almost at the summit of the hill, the ascending weight, causing the + carrying-wires to sag unusually low, struck a rock, unhitched the lashing + and fell, striking the steep rubble slope, to go bounding in great leaps + out amongst the grass to the flat below. Marvellous to relate, it was + found to have suffered no damage other than a double fracture of the + end-plate casting, which could be repaired. And so it was decided to + exchange the generators in the two equipments, as there would be greater + facilities for engineering work at the Main Base, Adelie Land. + Fortunately, the other generator was almost at the top of the ship's hold, + and therefore accessible. The three pieces into which the casting had been + broken were found to be sprung, and would not fit together. However, after + our arrival at Adelie Land, Hannam found, curiously enough, that the + pieces fitted into place perfectly—apparently an effect of + contraction due to the cold—and with the aid of a few plates and + belts the generator was made as serviceable as ever. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, Hurley, Harrisson, and the sealer, Hutchinson, had + returned from their trip to Caroline Cove, after a most interesting though + arduous journey. They had camped the first evening at The Nuggets, a rocky + point on the east coast some four miles to the south of North-East Bay. + From The Nuggets, the trail struck inland up the steep hillsides until the + summit of the island was reached; then over pebble-strewn, undulating + ground with occasional small lakes, arriving at the west coast near its + southern extremity. Owing to rain and fog they overshot the mark and had + to spend the night close to a bay at the south-end. There Hurley obtained + some good photographs of sea elephants and of the penguin rookeries. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, December 15, they set off again, this time finding + Caroline Cove without further difficulty. Harrisson remained on the brow + of the hill overlooking the cove, and there captured some prions and their + eggs. Hurley and his companion found the lost lens and returned to + Harrisson securing a fine albatross on the way. This solitary bird was + descried sitting on the hill side, several hundreds of feet above + sea-level. Its plumage was in such good condition that they could not + resist the impulse to secure it for our collection, for the moment not + considering the enormous weight to be carried. They had neither firearms + nor an Ancient Mariner's cross-bow, and no stones were to be had in the + vicinity—when the resourceful Hurley suddenly bethought himself of a + small tin of meat in his haversack, and, with a fortunate throw, hit the + bird on the head, killing the majestic creature on the spot. + </p> + <p> + Shouldering their prize, they trudged on to Lusitania Bay, camping there + that night in an old dilapidated hut; a remnant of the sealing days. Close + by there was known to be a large rookery of King penguins; a variety of + penguin with richly tinted plumage on the head and shoulders, and next in + size to the Emperor—the sovereign bird of the Antarctic Regions. The + breeding season was at its height, so Harrisson secured and preserved a + great number of their eggs. Hutchinson kindly volunteered to carry the + albatross in addition to his original load. If they had skinned the bird, + the weight would have been materially reduced, but with the meagre + appliances at hand, it would undoubtedly have been spoiled as a specimen. + Hurley, very ambitiously, had taken a heavy camera, in addition to a + blanket and other sundries. During the rough and wet walking of the + previous day, his boots had worn out and caused him to twist a tendon in + the right foot, so that he was not up to his usual form, while Harrisson + was hampered with a bulky cargo of eggs and specimens. + </p> + <p> + Saddled with these heavy burdens, the party found the return journey very + laborious. Hurley's leg set the pace, and so, later in the day, Harrisson + decided to push on ahead in order to give us news, as they had orders to + be back as soon as possible and were then overdue. When darkness came on, + Harrisson was near The Nuggets, where he passed the night amongst the + tussock-grass. Hurley and Hutchinson, who were five miles behind, also + slept by the wayside. When dawn appeared, Harrisson moved on, reaching the + north-end huts at about 9 A.M. Mertz and Whetter immediately set out and + came to the relief of the other two men a few hours later. + </p> + <p> + Fatigue and the lame leg subdued Hurley for the rest of the day, but the + next morning he was off to get pictures of the "flying fox" in action. It + was practically impossible for him to walk to the top of the hill, but not + to be baffled, he sent the cinematograph machine up by the "flying fox," + and then followed himself. Long before reaching the top he realized how + much his integrity depended on the strength of the hauling-line and the + care of those on Wireless Hill. + </p> + <p> + During the latter part of our stay at the island, the wind veered to the + north and north-north-east. We took advantage of this change to steam + round to the east side, intending to increase our supply of fresh water at + The Nuggets, where a stream comes down the hillside on to the beach. In + this, however, we were disappointed, for the sea was breaking too heavily + on the beach, and so we steamed back to North-East Bay and dropped anchor. + Wild went off in the launch to search for a landing-place but found the + sea everywhere too formidable. + </p> + <p> + Signals were made to those on shore, instructing them to finish off the + work on the wireless plant, and to kill a dozen sheep—enough for our + needs for some days. + </p> + <p> + The ship was now found to be drifting, and, as the wind was blowing + inshore, the anchor was raised, and with the launch in tow we steamed + round to the calmer waters of Hasselborough Bay. At the north end of the + island, for several miles out to sea along the line of a submerged reef, + the northerly swell was found to be piling up in an ugly manner, and + occasioned considerable damage to the launch. This happened as the + 'Aurora' swung around; a sea catching the launch and rushing it forward so + that it struck the stern of the ship bow-on, notwithstanding the fact that + several of the men exerted themselves to their utmost to prevent a + collision. On arrival at the anchorage, the launch was noticeably settling + down, as water had entered at several seams which had been started. + </p> + <p> + After being partly bailed out, it was left in the water with Hodgeman and + Close aboard, as we wished to run ashore as soon as the weather improved. + Contrary to expectation the wind increased, and it was discovered that the + 'Aurora' was drifting rapidly, although ninety fathoms of chain had been + paid out. Before a steam-winch** was installed, the anchor could be raised + only by means of an antiquated man-power lever-windlass. In this type, a + see-saw-like lever is worked by a gang of men at each extremity, and it + takes a long time to get in any considerable length of chain. The chorus + and chanty came to our aid once more, and the long hours of heaving on the + fo'c'sle head were a bright if strenuous spot in our memories of Macquarie + Island. In course of time, during which the ship steamed slowly ahead, the + end came in sight—'Vast heaving!—but the anchor was missing. + This put us in an awkward situation, for the stock of our other heavy + anchor had already been lost. There was no other course but to steam up + and down waiting for the weather to moderate. In the meantime, we had been + too busy to relieve Close and Hodgeman, who had been doing duty in the + launch, bailing for five hours, and were thoroughly soaked with spray. All + hands now helped with the tackle, and we soon had the launch on board in + its old position near the main hatch. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Fitted on return to Sydney after the first Antarctic cruise. +</pre> + <p> + These operations were unusually protracted for we were short handed; the + boatswain, some of the sailors and most of the land party being marooned + on shore. We were now anxious to get everybody on board and to be off. The + completion of their quarters was to be left to the Macquarie Island party, + and it was important that we should make the most of the southern season. + The wind blew so strongly, however, that there was no immediate prospect + of departure. + </p> + <p> + The ship continued to steam up and down. On the morning of December 23 it + was found possible to lower the whale-boat, and Wild went off with a + complement of sturdy oarsmen, including Madigan, Moyes, Watson and + Kennedy, and succeeded in bringing off the dogs. Several trips were made + with difficulty during the day, but at last all the men, dogs and sheep + were brought off. + </p> + <p> + Both Wild and I went with the whale-boat on its last trip at dusk on the + evening of December 23. The only possible landing-place, with the sea then + running, was at the extreme north-eastern corner of the beach. No time was + lost in getting the men and the remainder of the cargo into the boat, + though in the darkness this was not easily managed. The final parting with + our Macquarie Island party took place on the beach, their cheers echoing + to ours as we breasted the surf and "gave way" for the ship. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III FROM MACQUARIE ISLAND TO ADELIE LAND + </h2> + <p> + The morning following our farewell to Ainsworth and party at the north end + of the island found us steaming down the west coast, southward bound. + </p> + <p> + Our supply of fresh water was scanty, and the only resource was to touch + at Caroline Cove. As a matter of fact, there were several suitable + localities on the east coast, but the strong easterly weather then + prevailing made a landing impossible. + </p> + <p> + On the ship nearing the south end, the wind subsided. She then crept into + the lee of the cliffs, a boat was dropped and soundings disclosed a deep + passage at the mouth of Caroline Cove and ample water within. There was, + however, limited space for manoeuvring the vessel if a change should occur + in the direction of the wind. The risk was taken; the 'Aurora' felt her + way in, and, to provide against accident, was anchored by Captain Davis + with her bow toward the entrance. Wild then ran out a kedge anchor to + secure the stern. + </p> + <p> + During the cruise down the coast the missing stock of our only anchor had + been replaced by Gillies and Hannam. Two oregon "dead men", bolted + together on the shank, made a clumsy but efficient makeshift. + </p> + <p> + Two large barrels were taken ashore, repeatedly filled and towed off to + the ship. It was difficult at first to find good water, for the main + stream flowing down from the head of the bay was contaminated by the + penguins which made it their highway to a rookery. After a search, an + almost dry gulley bed was found to yield water when a pit was dug in its + bed. This spot was some eighty yards from the beach and to reach it one + traversed an area of tussocks between which sea elephants wallowed in soft + mire. + </p> + <p> + A cordon of men was made and buckets were interchanged, the full ones + descending and the empty ones ascending. The barrels on the beach were + thus speedily filled and taken off by a boat's crew. At 11 P.M. darkness + came, and it was decided to complete the work on the following day. + </p> + <p> + As we rowed to the ship, the water was serenely placid. From the dark + environing hills came the weird cries of strange birds. There was a hint + of wildness, soon to be forgotten in the chorus of a 'Varsity song and the + hearty shouts of the rowers. + </p> + <p> + About 2 A.M. the officer on watch came down to report to Captain Davis a + slight change in the direction of the breeze. At 3 A.M. I was again + awakened by hearing Captain Davis hasten on deck, and by a gentle bumping + of the ship, undoubtedly against rock. It appeared that the officer on + watch had left the bridge for a few minutes, while the wind freshened and + was blowing at the time nearly broadside-on from the north. This caused + the ship to sag to leeward, stretching the bow and stern cables, until she + came in contact with the kelp-covered, steep, rocky bank on the south + side. The narrow limits of the anchorage were responsible for this + dangerous situation. + </p> + <p> + All hands were immediately called on deck and set to work hauling on the + stern cable. In a few minutes the propeller and rudder were out of danger. + The engines were then started slowly ahead, and, as we came up to the + bower anchor, the cable was taken in. The wind was blowing across the + narrow entrance to the Cove, so that it was advisable to get quickly under + way. The kedge anchor was abandoned, and we steamed straight out to sea + with the bower hanging below the bows. The wind increased, and there was + no other course open but to continue the southward voyage. + </p> + <p> + The day so inauspiciously begun turned out beautifully sunny. There was + additional verve in our Christmas celebration, as Macquarie Island and the + Bishop and Clerk, in turn, sank below the northern horizon. + </p> + <p> + During the stay at the island little attention had been given to + scientific matters. All our energies had been concentrated on speedily + landing the party which was to carry out such special work, so as to allow + us to get away south as soon as possible. Enough had been seen to indicate + the wide scientific possibilities of the place. + </p> + <p> + For some days we were favoured by exceptional weather; a moderate breeze + from the north-east and a long, lazy swell combining to make our progress + rapid. + </p> + <p> + The sum of the experiences of earlier expeditions had shown that the + prevailing winds south of 60 degrees S. latitude were mainly + south-easterly, causing a continuous streaming of the pack from east to + west. Our obvious expedient on encountering the ice was to steam in the + same direction as this drift. It had been decided before setting out that + we would confine ourselves to the region west of the meridian of 158 + degrees E. longitude. So it was intended to reach the pack, approximately + in that meridian, and, should we be repulsed, to work steadily to the west + in expectation of breaking through to the land. + </p> + <p> + Regarding the ice conditions over the whole segment of the unknown tract + upon which our attack was directed, very little was known. Critically + examined, the reports of the American squadron under the command of Wilkes + were highly discouraging. D'Urville appeared to have reached his landfall + without much hindrance by ice, but that was a fortunate circumstance in + view of the difficulties Wilkes had met. At the western limit of the area + we were to explore, the Germans in the 'Gauss' had been irrevocably + trapped in the ice as early as the month of February. At the eastern + limit, only the year before, the 'Terra Nova' of Scott's expedition, + making a sally into unexplored waters, had sighted new land almost on the + 158th meridian, but even though it was then the end of summer, and the sea + was almost free from the previous season's ice, they were not able to + reach the land on account of the dense pack. + </p> + <p> + In the early southern summer, at the time of our arrival, the ice + conditions were expected to be at their worst. This followed from the fact + that not only would local floes be encountered, but also a vast expanse of + pack fed by the disintegrating floes of the Ross Sea, since, between Cape + Adare and the Balleny Islands, the ice drifting to the north-west under + the influence of the south-east winds is arrested in an extensive sheet. + On the other hand, were we to wait for the later season, no time would + remain for the accomplishment of the programme which had been arranged. So + we were forced to accept things as we found them, being also prepared to + make the most of any chance opportunity. + </p> + <p> + In planning the Expedition, the probability of meeting unusually heavy + pack had been borne in mind, and the three units into which the land + parties and equipment were divided had been disposed so as to facilitate + the landing of a base with despatch, and, maybe, under difficult + circumstances. Further, in case the ship were frozen in, "wireless" could + be installed and the news immediately communicated through Macquarie + Island to Australia. + </p> + <p> + At noon on December 27 whales were spouting all round us, and appeared to + be travelling from west to east. Albatrosses of several species constantly + hovered about, and swallow-like Wilson petrels—those nervous rangers + of the high seas—would sail along the troughs and flit over the + crests of the waves, to vanish into sombre distance. + </p> + <p> + Already we were steaming through untravelled waters, and new discoveries + might be expected at any moment. A keen interest spread throughout the + ship. On several occasions, fantastic clouds on the horizon gave hope of + land, only to be abandoned on further advance. On December 28 and 29 large + masses of floating kelp were seen, and, like the flotsam met with by + Columbus, still further raised our hopes. + </p> + <p> + The possibility of undiscovered islands existing in the Southern Ocean, + south of Australia and outside the ice-bound region, kept us vigilant. So + few ships had ever navigated the waters south of latitude 55 degrees, that + some one and a quarter million square miles lay open to exploration. As an + instance of such a discovery in the seas south of New Zealand may be + mentioned Scott Island, first observed by the 'Morning', one of the relief + ships of the British Expedition of 1902. + </p> + <p> + The weather remained favourable for sounding and other oceanographical + work, but as it was uncertain how long these conditions would last, and in + view of the anxiety arising from overloaded decks and the probability of + gales which are chronic in these latitudes, it was resolved to land one of + the bases as soon as possible, and thus rid the ship of superfluous cargo. + The interesting but time-absorbing study of the ocean-depths was therefore + postponed for a while. + </p> + <p> + With regard to the Antarctic land to be expected ahead, many of Wilkes's + landfalls, where they had been investigated by later expeditions, had been + disproved. It seemed as if he had regarded the northern margin of the + solid floe and shelf-ice as land; perhaps also mistaking bergs, frozen in + the floe and distorted by mirage, for ice-covered land. Nevertheless, his + soundings, and the light thrown upon the subject by the Scott and + Shackleton expeditions, left no doubt in my mind that land would be found + within a reasonable distance south of the position assigned by Wilkes. + Some authorities had held that any land existing in this region would be + found to be of the nature of isolated islands. Those familiar with the + adjacent land, however, were all in favour of it being continental—a + continuation of the Victoria Land plateau. The land lay to the south + beyond doubt; the problem was to reach it through the belt of ice-bound + sea. Still, navigable pack-ice might be ahead, obviating the need of + driving too far to the west. + </p> + <p> + "Ice on the starboard bow!" At 4 P.M. on December 29 the cry was raised, + and shortly after we passed alongside a small caverned berg whose + bluish-green tints called forth general admiration. In the distance others + could be seen. One larger than the average stood almost in our path. It + was of the flat-topped, sheer-walled type, so characteristic of the + Antarctic regions; three-quarters of a mile long and half a mile wide, + rising eighty feet above the sea. + </p> + <p> + It has been stated that tabular bergs are typical of the Antarctic as + opposed to the Arctic. This diversity is explained by a difference in the + glacial conditions. In the north, glaciation is not so marked and, as a + rule, coastal areas are free from ice, except for valley-glaciers which + transport ice from the high interior down to sea-level. There, the summer + temperature is so warm that the lower parts of the glaciers become much + decayed, and, reaching the sea, break up readily into numerous irregular, + pinnacled bergs of clear ice. In the south, the tabular forms result from + the fact that the average annual temperature is colder than that + prevailing at the northern axis of the earth. They are so formed because, + even at sea-level, no appreciable amount of thawing takes place in + midsummer. The inland ice pushes out to sea in enormous masses, and + remains floating long before it "calves" to form bergs. Even though its + surface has been thrown into ridges as it was creeping over the uneven + land, all are reduced to a dead level or slightly undulating plain, in the + free-floating condition, and are still further effaced by dense drifts and + repeated falls of snow descending upon them. The upper portion of a + table-topped berg consists, therefore, of consolidated snow; neither + temperature nor pressure having been sufficient to metamorphose it into + clear ice. Such a berg in old age becomes worn into an irregular shape by + the action of waves and weather, and often completely capsizes, exposing + its corroded basement. + </p> + <p> + A light fog obscured the surrounding sea and distant bergs glided by like + spectres. A monstrous block on the starboard side had not been long + adrift, for it showed but slight signs of weathering. + </p> + <p> + The fog thickened over a grey swell that shimmered with an oily lustre. At + 7 P.M. pack-ice came suddenly to view, and towards it we steered, vainly + peering through the mists ahead in search of a passage. The ice was + closely packed, the pieces being small and wellworn. On the outskirts was + a light brash which steadily gave place to a heavier variety, composed of + larger and more angular fragments. A swishing murmur like the wind in the + tree-tops came from the great expanse. It was alabaster-white and through + the small, separate chips was diffused a pale lilac coloration. The larger + chunks, by their motion and exposure to wind and current, had a circle of + clear water; the deep sea-blue hovering round their water-worn niches. + Here and there appeared the ochreous-yellow colour of adhering films of + diatoms. + </p> + <p> + As we could not see what lay beyond, and the pack was becoming heavier, + the ship was swung round and headed out. + </p> + <p> + Steering to the west through open water and patches of trailing brash, we + were encouraged to find the pack trending towards the south. By pushing + through bars of jammed floes and dodging numerous bergs, twenty miles were + gained due southwards before the conditions had changed. The fog cleared, + and right ahead massive bergs rose out of an ice-strewn sea. We neared one + which was a mile in length and one hundred feet in height. The heaving + ocean, dashing against its mighty, glistening walls, rushed with a hollow + boom into caverns of ethereal blue; gothic portals to a cathedral of + resplendent purity. + </p> + <p> + The smaller bergs and fragments of floe crowded closer together, and the + two men at the wheel had little time for reverie. Orders came in quick + succession—"Starboard! Steady!" and in a flash—"Hard-a-port!" + Then repeated all over again, while the rudder-chains scraped and rattled + in their channels. + </p> + <p> + Gradually the swell subsided, smoothed by the weight of ice. The + tranquillity of the water heightened the superb effects of this glacial + world. Majestic tabular bergs whose crevices exhaled a vaporous azure; + lofty spires, radiant turrets and splendid castles; honeycombed masses + illumined by pale green light within whose fairy labyrinths the water + washed and gurgled. Seals and penguins on magic gondolas were the silent + denizens of this dreamy Venice. In the soft glamour of the midsummer + midnight sun, we were possessed by a rapturous wonder—the rare + thrill of unreality. + </p> + <p> + The ice closed in, and shock after shock made the ship vibrate as she + struck the smaller pieces full and fair, followed by a crunching and + grinding as they scraped past the sides. The dense pack had come, and + hardly a square foot of space showed amongst the blocks; smaller ones + packing in between the larger, until the sea was covered with a continuous + armour of ice. The ominous sound arising from thousands of faces rubbing + together as they gently oscillated in the swell was impressive. It spoke + of a force all-powerful, in whose grip puny ships might be locked for + years and the less fortunate receive their last embrace. + </p> + <p> + The pack grew heavier and the bergs more numerous, embattled in a + formidable array. If an ideal picture, from our point of view it was + impenetrable. No "water sky" showed as a distant beacon; over all was + reflected the pitiless, white glare of the ice. The 'Aurora' retreated to + the open sea, and headed to the west in search of a break in the + ice-front. The wind blew from the south-east, and, with sails set to + assist the engines, rapid progress was made. + </p> + <p> + The southern prospect was disappointing, for the heavy pack was ranged in + a continuous bar. The over-arching sky invariably shone with that + yellowish-white effulgence known as "ice blink," indicative of continuous + ice, in contrast with the dark water sky, a sign of open water, or a + mottled sky proceeding from an ice-strewn but navigable sea. + </p> + <p> + Though progress can be made in dense pack, provided it is not too heavy, + advance is necessarily very slow—a few miles a day, and that at the + expense of much coal. Without a well-defined "water sky" it would have + been foolish to have entered. Further, everything pointed to heavier + ice-conditions in the south, and, indeed, in several places we + reconnoitred, and such was proved to be the case. Large bergs were + numerous, which, on account of being almost unaffected by surface currents + because of their ponderous bulk and stupendous draught, helped to compact + the shallow surface-ice under the free influence of currents and winds. In + our westerly course we were sometimes able to edge a little to the south, + but were always reduced to our old position within a few hours. Long + projecting "tongues" were met at intervals and, when narrow or open, we + pushed through them. + </p> + <p> + Whales were frequently seen, both rorquals and killers. On the pack, + sea-leopards and crab-eater seals sometimes appeared. At one time as many + as a hundred would be counted from the bridge and at other moments not a + single one could be sighted. They were not alarmed, unless the ship + happened to bump against ice-masses within a short distance of them. A + small sea-leopard, shot from the fo'c'sle by a well-directed bullet from + Wild, was taken on board as a specimen; the meat serving as a great treat + for the dogs. + </p> + <p> + On January 2, when driving through a tongue of pack, a halt was made to + "ice ship." A number of men scrambled over the side on to a large piece of + floe and handed up the ice. It was soon discovered, however, that the + swell was too great, for masses of ice ten tons or more in weight swayed + about under the stern, endangering the propeller and rudder—the + vulnerable parts of the vessel. So we moved on, having secured enough + fresh-water ice to supply a pleasant change after the somewhat discoloured + tank-water then being served out. The ice still remained compact and + forbidding, but each day we hoped to discover a weak spot through which we + might probe to the land itself. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of January 2 we saw a high, pinnacled berg, a few miles + within the edge of the pack, closely resembling a rocky peak; the + transparent ice of which it was composed appeared, in the dull light, of a + much darker hue than the surrounding bergs. Another adjacent block + exhibited a large black patch on its northern face, the exact nature of + which could not be ascertained at a distance. Examples of rock debris + embedded in bergs had already been observed, and it was presumed that this + was a similar case. These were all hopeful signs, for the earthy matter + must, of course, have been picked up by the ice during its repose upon + some adjacent land. + </p> + <p> + At this same spot, large flocks of silver-grey petrels were seen resting + on the ice and skimming the water in search of food. As soon as we had + entered the ice-zone, most of our old companions, such as the albatross, + had deserted, while a new suite of Antarctic birds had taken their place. + These included the beautiful snow petrel, the Antarctic petrel, and the + small, lissome Wilson petrel—a link with the bird-life of more + temperate seas. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of January 3 the wind was blowing fresh from the south-east + and falling snow obscured the horizon. The pack took a decided turn to the + north, which fact was particularly disappointing in view of the distance + we had already traversed to the west. We were now approaching the + longitude of D'Urville's landfall, and still the pack showed no signs of + slackening. I was beginning to feel very anxious, and had decided not to + pass that longitude without resorting to desperate measures. + </p> + <p> + The change in our fortunes occurred at five o'clock next morning, when the + Chief Officer, Toucher, came down from the bridge to report that the + atmosphere was clearing and that there appeared to be land-ice near by. + Sure enough, on the port side, within a quarter of a mile, rose a massive + barrier of ice extending far into the mist and separated from the ship by + a little loose pack-ice. The problem to be solved was, whether it was the + seaward face of an ice-covered continent, the ice-capping of a low island + or only a flat-topped iceberg of immense proportions. + </p> + <p> + By 7 A.M. a corner was reached where the ice-wall trended southward, + limned on the horizon in a series of bays and headlands. An El Dorado had + opened before us, for the winds coming from the east of south had cleared + the pack away from the lee of the ice-wall, so that in the distance a + comparatively clear sea was visible, closed by a bar of ice, a few miles + in extent. Into this we steered, hugging the ice-wall, and were soon in + the open, speeding along in glorious sunshine, bringing new sights into + view every moment. + </p> + <p> + The wall, along the northern face, was low—from thirty to seventy + feet in height—but the face along which we were now progressing + gradually rose in altitude to the south. It was obviously a shelf-ice + formation (or a glacier-tongue projection of it), exactly similar in + build, for instance, to the Great Ross Barrier so well described by Ross, + Scott, and others. At the north-west corner, at half a dozen places within + a few miles of each other, the wall was puckered up and surmounted by + semi-conical eminences, half as high as the face itself. These peculiar + elevations were unlike anything previously recorded and remained + unexplained for a while, until closer inspection showed them to be the + result of impact with other ice-masses—a curious but conceivable + cause. + </p> + <p> + On pieces of broken floe Weddell seals were noted. They were the first + seen on the voyage and a sure indication of land, for their habitat ranges + over the coastal waters of Antarctic lands. + </p> + <p> + A large, low, dome-topped elevation, about one mile in diameter, was + passed on the starboard side, at a distance of two miles from the long + ice-cliff. This corresponded in shape with what Ross frequently referred + to as an "ice island," uncertain whether it was a berg or ice-covered + land. A sounding close by gave two hundred and eight fathoms, showing that + we were on the continental shelf, and increasing the probability that the + "ice island" was aground. + </p> + <p> + Birds innumerable appeared on every hand: snow petrels, silver petrels, + Cape pigeons and Antarctic petrels. They fluttered in hundreds about our + bows. Cape pigeons are well known in lower latitudes, and it was + interesting to find them so far south. As they have chessboard-like + markings on the back when seen in flight, there is no mistaking them. + </p> + <p> + The ice-wall or glacier-tongue now took a turn to the south-east. At this + point it had risen to a great height, about two hundred feet sheer. A + fresh wind was blowing in our teeth from the south-south-east, and beyond + this point would be driving us on to the cliffs. We put the ship about, + therefore, and made for the lee side of the "ice island." + </p> + <p> + In isolated coveys on the inclined top of the "island" were several + flocks, each containing hundreds of Antarctic petrels. At intervals they + would rise into the air in clouds, shortly afterwards to settle down again + on the snow. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis moved the ship carefully against the lee wall of the + "island," with a view of replenishing our water supply, but it was + unscalable, and we were forced to withdraw. Crouched on a small projection + near the water's edge was a seal, trying to evade the eyes of a dozen + large grampuses which were playing about near our stern. These monsters + appeared to be about twenty-five feet in length. They are the most + formidable predacious mammals of the Antarctic seas, and annually account + for large numbers of seals, penguins, and other cetaceans. The sea-leopard + is its competitor, though not nearly so ferocious as the grampus, of whom + it lives in terror. + </p> + <p> + The midnight hours were spent off the "ice island" while we wafted for a + decrease in the wind. Bars of cirrus clouds covered the whole sky—the + presage of a coming storm. The wind arose, and distant objects were + blotted out by driving snow. An attempt was made to keep the ship in + shelter by steaming into the wind, but as "ice island" and glacier-tongue + were lost in clouds of snow, we were fortunate to make the lee of the + latter, about fourteen miles to the north. There we steamed up and down + until the afternoon of January 5, when the weather improved. A sounding + was taken and the course was once more set for the south. + </p> + <p> + The sky remained overcast, the atmosphere foggy, and a south-south-east + wind was blowing as we came abreast of the "ice island," which, by the + way, was discovered to have drifted several miles to the north, thus + proving itself to be a free-floating berg. The glacier-tongue on the port + side took a sharp turn to the east-south-east, disappearing on the + horizon. As there was no pack in sight and the water was merely littered + with fragments of ice, it appeared most likely that the turn in the + glacier-tongue was part of a great sweeping curve ultimately joining with + the southward land. On our south-south-east course we soon lost sight of + the ice-cliffs in a gathering fog. + </p> + <p> + On the afternoon of January 6 the wind abated and the fog began to clear. + At 5 P.M. a line of ice confronted us and, an hour later, the 'Aurora' was + in calm water under another mighty ice face trending across our course. + This wall was precisely similar to the one seen on the previous evening, + and might well have been a continuation of it. It is scarcely credible + that when the 'Aurora' came south the following year, the glacier-tongue + first discovered had entirely disappeared. It was apparently nothing more + than a huge iceberg measuring forty miles in length. Specially valuable, + as clearing up any doubt that may have remained, was its re-discovery the + following year some fifty miles to the north-west. Close to the face of + the new ice-wall, which proved to be a true glacier-tongue, a mud bottom + was found at a depth of three hundred and ninety-five fathoms. + </p> + <p> + While we were steaming in calm water to the south-west, the massive front, + serrated by shallow bays and capes, passed in magnificent review. Its + height attained a maximum of one hundred and fifty feet. In places the sea + had eaten out enormous blue grottoes. At one spot, several of these had + broken into each other to form a huge domed cavern, the roof of which hung + one hundred feet above the sea. The noble portico was flanked by giant + pillars. + </p> + <p> + The glacier-tongue bore all the characters of shelf-ice, by which is meant + a floating extension of the land-ice.** A table-topped berg in the act of + formation was seen, separated from the parent body of shelf-ice by a deep + fissure several yards in width. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Subsequently this shelf-ice formation was found to be a floating +glacier-tongue sixty miles in length, the seaward extension of a large +glacier which we named the Mertz Glacier. +</pre> + <p> + At 11 P.M. the 'Aurora' entered a bay, ten miles wide, bounded on the east + by the shelf-ice wall and on the west by a steep snow-covered promontory + rising approximately two thousand feet in height, as yet seen dimly in + hazy outline through the mist. No rock was visible, but the contour of the + ridge was clearly that of ice-capped land. + </p> + <p> + There was much jubilation among the watchers on deck at the prospect. + Every available field-glass and telescope was brought to bear upon it. It + was almost certainly the Antarctic continent, though, at that time, its + extension to the east, west and south remained to be proved. The shelf-ice + was seen to be securely attached to it and, near its point of junction + with the undulating land-ice, we beheld the mountains of this mysterious + land haloed in ghostly mist. + </p> + <p> + While passing the extremity of the western promontory, we observed an + exposure of rock, jutting out of the ice near sea-level, in the face of a + scar left by an avalanche. Later, when passing within half a cable's + length of several berg-like masses of ice lying off the coast, rock was + again visible in black relief against the water's edge, forming a pedestal + for the ice. The ship was kept farther offshore, after this warning, for + though she was designed to buffet with the ice, we had no desire to test + her resistance to rock. + </p> + <p> + The bottom was very irregular, and as an extra precaution, soundings were + taken every few minutes. Through a light fog all that could be seen + landwards was a steep, sloping, icy surface descending from the interior, + and terminating abruptly in a seaward cliff fifty to two hundred feet in + height. + </p> + <p> + The ice-sheet terminating in this wall presented a more broken surface + than the floating shelf-ice. It was riven and distorted by gaping + crevasses; an indication of the rough bed over which it had travelled. + </p> + <p> + Towards midnight another bay was entered and many rocky islets appeared on + its western side. The engines were stopped for a few hours, and the voyage + was resumed in clearer weather on the following morning. + </p> + <p> + All day we threaded our way between islands and bergs. Seals and penguins + swam around, the latter squawking and diving in a most amusing manner. + </p> + <p> + Cautiously we glided by an iceberg, at least one hundred and fifty feet + high, rising with a faceted, perpendicular face chased with soft, snowy + traceries and ornamented with stalactites. Splits and rents broke into the + margin, and from each streamed the evanescent, azure vapour. Each puncture + and tiny grotto was filled with it, and a sloping cap of shimmering snow + spread over the summit. The profile-view was an exact replica of a + battleship, grounded astern. The bold contour of the bow was perfect, and + the massive flank had been torn and shattered by shell-fire in a desperate + naval battle. This berg had heeled over considerably, and the original + water-line ran as a definite rim, thirty feet above the green water. From + this rim shelved down a smooth and polished base, marked with fine + vertical striae. + </p> + <p> + Soundings varied from twenty to two hundred fathoms, and, accordingly, the + navigation was particularly anxious work. + </p> + <p> + Extending along about fifteen miles of coast, where the inland ice came + down steeply to the sea, was a marginal belt of sea, about two or three + miles in width, thickly strewn with rocky islets. Of these some were flat + and others peaked, but all were thickly populated by penguins, petrels and + seals. The rocks appeared all to be gneisses and schists. + </p> + <p> + Later that night we lay off a possible landing-place for one of our bases, + but, on more closely inspecting it in the morning, we decided to proceed + farther west into a wide sweeping bay which opened ahead. About fifty + miles ahead, on the far side of Commonwealth Bay, as we named it, was a + cape which roughly represented in position Cape Decouverte, the most + easterly extension of Adelie Land seen by D'Urville in 1840. Though + Commonwealth Bay and the land already seen had never before been sighted, + all was placed under the territorial name of Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + The land was so overwhelmed with ice that, even at sea-level, the rock was + all but entirely hidden. Here was an ice age in all earnestness; a picture + of Northern Europe during the Great Ice Age some fifty thousand years ago. + It was evident that the glaciation of Adelie Land was much more severe + than that in higher Antarctic latitudes, as exampled on the borders of the + Ross Sea; the arena of Scott's, Shackleton's and other expeditions. The + temperature could not be colder, so we were led to surmise that the + snowfall must be excessive. The full truth was to be ascertained by bitter + experience, after spending a year on the spot. + </p> + <p> + I had hoped to find the Antarctic continent in these latitudes bounded by + a rocky and attractive coast like that in the vicinity of Cape Adare; the + nearest well-explored region. It had proved otherwise, only too well + endorsing the scanty information supplied by D'Urville and Wilkes of the + coastline seen by them. A glance at the austere plateau and the + ice-fettered coast was evidence of a rigid, inhospitable climate. It was + apparent, too, that only a short summer could be expected in these + latitudes, thus placing limitations upon our operations. + </p> + <p> + If three bases were to be landed it was important that they should be + spread at sufficiently wide intervals. If one were placed in Adelie Land, + the ship would probably have to break through the pack in establishing + each of the other two ba ses. Judging by our previous experience there was + no certain prospect of this being effected. The successful landing of + three bases in suitable positions, sufficiently far apart for advantageous + co-operation in geographical, meteorological and other observations, had + now become problematical. In addition, one of the parties was not as + strong as I would have liked, considering what would be undoubtedly its + strenuous future. + </p> + <p> + For some days the various phases of the situation had occupied my mind, + and I now determined to risk two bases, combining the smallest of the + three parties with the Main Base. Alterations in the personnel of the + third party were also made, by which the Main Base would be increased in + strength for scientific work, and the other party under the leadership of + Wild would be composed of men of specially good sledging calibre, besides + being representative of the leading branches of our scientific programme. + </p> + <p> + We had a splendid lot of men, and I had no difficulty in choosing for Wild + seven companions who could be relied upon to give a good account of + themselves. It was only by assuring myself of their high efficiency that I + could expect to rest from undue anxiety throughout the year of our + separation. The composition of the two parties was as follows: + </p> + <p> + Main Base: R. Bage, F. H. Bickerton, J. H. Close, P. E. Correll, W. H. + Hannam, A. J. Hodgeman, J. G. Hunter, J. F. Hurley, C. F. Laseron, C. T. + Madigan, A. L. McLean, X. Mertz, H. D. Murphy, B. E. S. Ninnis, F. L. + Stillwell, E. N. Webb, L. H. Whetter and myself. + </p> + <p> + Western Party: G. Dovers, C. T. Harrisson, C. A. Hoadley, S. E. Jones, A. + L. Kennedy, M. H. Moyes, A. D. Watson, and F. Wild (leader). + </p> + <p> + I was now anxious to find a suitable location for our Main Base; two + reasons making it an urgent matter. The first was, that as we advanced to + the west we were leaving the South Magnetic Pole, and I was anxious to + have our magnetographs running as near the latter as possible. Secondly, + we would be daily increasing our distance from Macquarie Island, making + wireless communication more uncertain. + </p> + <p> + At noon on January 8, while I was weighing the pros and cons with Captain + Davis, Wild came in to say that there was a rocky exposure about fifteen + miles off on the port side, and suggested altering our course to obtain a + better view of it. + </p> + <p> + Just after 4 P.M., when the ship was about one mile from the nearest + rocks, the whale-boat was lowered and manned. We rowed in with the object + of making a closer investigation. From the ship's deck, even when within a + mile, the outcrop had appeared to project directly from under the inland + ice-sheet. Now, however, we were surprised to find ourselves amongst an + archipelago of islets. These were named the Mackellar Islets, in + remembrance of one who had proved a staunch friend of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + Weddell seals and Adelie penguins in thousands rested upon the rocks; the + latter chiefly congregated upon a long, low, bare islet situated in the + centre. This was the largest of the group, measuring about half a mile in + length; others were not above twenty yards in diameter. As we came + inshore, the main body of the archipelago was found to be separated by a + mile and a half from the mainland. A point which struck us at the time was + that the islets situated on the southern side of the group were capped by + unique masses of ice; resembling iced cakes. Later we were able to see + them in process of formation. In the violent southerly hurricanes + prevalent in Adelie Land, the spray breaks right over them. Part of it is + deposited and frozen, and by increments the icing of these monstrous + "cakes" is built up. The amount contributed in winter makes up for loss by + thawing in midsummer. As the islets to windward shelter those in their + lee, the latter are destitute of these natural canopies. + </p> + <p> + Soundings were taken at frequent intervals with a hand lead-line, + manipulated by Madigan. The water was on the whole shallow, varying from a + few to twenty fathoms. The bottom was clothed by dense, luxuriant seaweed. + This rank growth along the littoral was unexpected, for nothing of the + kind exists on the Ross Sea coasts within five or six fathoms of the + surface. + </p> + <p> + Advancing towards the mainland, we observed a small islet amongst the + rocks, and towards it the boat was directed. We were soon inside a + beautiful, miniature harbour completely land-locked. The sun shone + gloriously in a blue sky as we stepped ashore on a charming ice-quay—the + first to set foot on the Antarctic continent between Cape Adare and + Gaussberg, a distance of one thousand eight hundred miles. + </p> + <p> + Wild and I proceeded to make a tour of exploration. The rocky area at Cape + Denison, as it was named, was found to be about one mile in length and + half a mile in extreme width. Behind it rose the inland ice, ascending in + a regular slope and apparently free of crevasses—an outlet for our + sledging parties in the event of the sea not firmly freezing over. To + right and left of this oasis, as the visitor to Adelie Land must regard + the welcome rock, the ice was heavily crevassed and fell sheer to the sea + in cliffs, sixty to one hundred and fifty feet in height. Two small dark + patches in the distance were the only evidences of rock to relieve the + white monotony of the coast. + </p> + <p> + In landing cargo on Antarctic shores, advantage is generally taken of the + floe-ice on to which the materials can be unloaded and at once sledged + away to their destination. Here, on the other hand, there was open water, + too shallow for the 'Aurora' to be moored alongside the ice-foot. The only + alternative was to anchor the ship at a distance and discharge the cargo + by boats running to the ideal harbour we had discovered. Close to the boat + harbour was suitable ground for the erection of a hut, so that the various + impedimenta would have to be carried only a short distance. For supplies + of fresh meat, in the emergency of being marooned for a number of years, + there were many Weddell seals at hand, and on almost all the neighbouring + ridges colonies of penguins were busy rearing their young.64 + </p> + <p> + As a station for scientific investigations, it offered a wider field than + the casual observer would have imagined. So it came about that the Main + Base was finally settled at Cape Denison, Commonwealth Bay. + </p> + <p> + We arrived on board at 8 P.M., taking a seal as food for the dogs. Without + delay, the motor-launch was dropped into the water, and both it and the + whale-boat loaded with frozen carcasses of mutton, cases of eggs and other + perishable goods. + </p> + <p> + While some of us went ashore in the motor-launch, with the whale-boat in + tow, the 'Aurora' steamed round the Mackellar Islets seeking for a good + anchorage under the icy barrier, immediately to the west of the boat + harbour. The day had been perfect, vibrant with summer and life, but + towards evening a chill breeze sprang up, and we in the motor-launch had + to beat against it. By the time we had reached the head of the harbour, + Hoadley had several fingers frost-bitten and all were feeling the cold, + for we were wearing light garments in anticipation of fine weather. The + wind strengthened every minute, and showers of fine snow were soon + whistling down the glacier. No time was lost in landing the cargo, and, + with a rising blizzard at our backs, we drove out to meet the 'Aurora'. On + reaching the ship a small gale was blowing and our boats were taken in + tow. + </p> + <p> + The first thing to be considered was the mooring of the 'Aurora' under the + lee of the ice-wall, so as to give us an opportunity of getting the boats + aboard. In the meantime they were passed astern, each manned by several + hands to keep them bailed out; the rest of us having scrambled up the + side. Bringing the ship to anchor in such a wind in uncharted, shoal water + was difficult to do in a cool and methodical manner. The sounding machine + was kept running with rather dramatic results; depths jumping from five to + thirty fathoms in the ship's length, and back again to the original figure + in the same distance. A feeling of relief passed round when, after much + manoeuvring, the anchor was successfully bedded five hundred yards from + the face of the cliff. + </p> + <p> + Just at this time the motor-launch broke adrift. Away it swept before a + wind of forty-five miles per hour. On account of the cold, and because the + engine was drenched with sea-water, some difficulty was found in starting + the motor. From the ship's deck we could see Bickerton busily engaged with + it. The rudder had been unshipped, and there was no chance of replacing + it, for the boat was bobbing about on the waves in a most extraordinary + manner. However, Whetter managed to make a jury-rudder which served the + purpose, while Hunter, the other occupant, was kept laboriously active + with the pump. + </p> + <p> + They had drifted half a mile, and were approaching the rocks of an islet + on which the sea was breaking heavily. Just as every one was becoming very + apprehensive, the launch began to forge ahead, and the men had soon + escaped from their dangerous predicament. By the united efforts of all + hands the boats were hoisted on board and everything was made as "snug" as + possible. + </p> + <p> + The wind steadily increased, and it seemed impossible for the anchor to + hold. The strain on the cable straightened out a steel hook two inches in + diameter. This caused some embarrassment, as the hook was part of the + cable attachment under the fo'c'sle-head. It is remarkable, however, that + after this was adjusted the ship did not lose her position up to the time + of departure from Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + Though we were so close under the shelter of a lofty wall, the waves + around us were at least four feet in height and when the wind increased to + sixty-five and seventy miles per hour, their crests were cut off and the + surface was hidden by a sheet of racing spindrift. + </p> + <p> + Everything was securely lashed in readiness for going to sea, in case the + cable should part. Final arrangements were then made to discharge the + cargo quickly as soon as the wind moderated. + </p> + <p> + Two days had elapsed before the wind showed any signs of abatement. It was + 8 P.M. on January 10 when the first boat ventured off with a small cargo, + but it was not till the following morning that a serious start was made. + In good weather, every trip between the ship and the boat harbour, a + distance of a mile, meant that five or six tons had been landed. It was + usual for the loaded launch to tow both whale-boats heavily laden and, in + addition, a raft of hut timbers or wireless masts. Some of the sailors, + while engaged in building rafts alongside the ship, were capsized into the + water and after that the occupation was not a popular one. + </p> + <p> + Ashore, Wild had rigged a derrick, using for its construction two of the + wireless royal masts. It was thus possible to cope with the heavier + packages at the landing-place. Of the last-named the air-tractor sledge + was by far the most troublesome. With plenty of manual labour, under + Wild's skilful direction, this heavy machine was hoisted from the + motor-launch, and then carefully swung on to the solid ice-foot. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis superintended the discharging operations on the ship, + effected by the crew and some of the land party under the direction of the + ship's officers. Wild supervised conveyance ashore, and the landing, + classification, and safe storage of the various boat-loads. Gillies and + Bickerton took alternate shifts in driving the motor-launch. The launch + proved invaluable, and we were very glad that it had been included in the + equipment, for it did a remarkable amount of work in a minimum of time. + </p> + <p> + In view of the difficulty of embarking the boats, if another hurricane + should arise, tents were erected ashore, so that a party could remain + there with the boats moored in a sheltered harbour. + </p> + <p> + Everything went well until just before midnight on January 12, when the + wind again swept down. Wild, four of the men and I were forced to remain + ashore. We spent the time constructing a temporary hut of benzine cases, + roofed with planks; the walls of which were made massive to resist the + winds. This structure was henceforth known as the "Benzine Hut". + </p> + <p> + The barometer dropped to 28.5 inches and the wind remained high. We were + struck with the singular fact that, even in the height of some of these + hurricanes, the sky remained serene and the sun shone brightly. It had + been very different when the ship was amongst the pack a few miles to the + north, for, there, cloudy and foggy conditions had been the rule. The wind + coming to us from the south was dry; obviously an argument for the + continental extension of the land in that direction. + </p> + <p> + At 2 A.M. on January 15 a pre-arranged whistle was sounded from the + 'Aurora', advising those of us ashore that the sea had moderated + sufficiently to continue unloading. Wild sped away in the launch, but + before he had reached the ship the wind renewed its activity. At last, + after 2 P.M. on the same day it ceased, and we were able to carry on work + until midnight, when the wind descended on us once more. This time, + eighteen men remained ashore. After twelve hours there was another lull, + and unloading was then continued with only a few intermissions from 1 P.M. + on January 16 until the afternoon of January 19. + </p> + <p> + Never was landing so hampered by adverse conditions, and yet, thanks to + the assiduous application of all, a great assortment of materials was + safely embarked. Comprised among them were the following: twenty-three + tons of coal briquettes, two complete living-huts, a magnetic observatory, + the whole of the wireless equipment, including masts, and more than two + thousand packages of general supplies containing sufficient food for two + years, utensils, instruments, benzine, kerosene, lubricating oils an + air-tractor and other sledges. + </p> + <p> + Then came the time for parting. There was a great field before Wild's + party to the west, and it was important that they should be able to make + the most of the remainder of the season. My great regret was that I could + not be with them. I knew that I had men of experience and ability in Davis + and Wild, and felt that the work entrusted to them was in the best of + hands. Through the medium of wireless telegraphy I hoped to keep in touch + with the Macquarie Island party, the Western Base,** and the ship itself, + when in Australian waters. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** They were supplied with masts and a receiving set sufficiently +sensitive to pick up messages from a distance of five or six hundred +miles. +</pre> + <p> + It was my idea that Wild's party should proceed west and attempt to effect + a landing and establish a western wintering station at some place not less + than four hundred miles west of Adelie Land. On the way, whenever + opportunity presented itself, they were to cache provisions at intervals + along the coast in places liable to be visited by sledging parties. + </p> + <p> + The location of such caches and of the Western Base, it was hoped, would + be communicated to us at the Main Base, through the medium of wireless + telegraphy from Hobart. + </p> + <p> + All members of the land parties and the ship's officers met in the + ward-room. There were mutual good wishes expressed all round, and then we + celebrated previous Antarctic explorers, more especially D'Urville and + Wilkes. The toast was drunk in excellent Madeira presented to us by Mr. J. + T. Buchanan, who had carried this sample round the world with him when a + member of the celebrated 'Challenger' expedition. + </p> + <p> + The motor-launch was hoisted and the anchor raised. Then at 8.45 P.M. on + January 19 we clambered over the side into one of the whale-boats and + pushed off for Cape Denison, shouting farewells back to the 'Aurora'. + Several hours later she had disappeared below the north-western horizon, + and we had set to work to carve out a home in Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV NEW LANDS + </h2> + <p> + Leaving the land party under my charge at Commonwealth Bay on the evening + of January 19, the 'Aurora' set her course to round a headland visible on + the north-western horizon. At midnight the ship came abreast of this point + and continued steaming west, keeping within a distance of five miles of + the coast. A break in the icy monotony came with a short tract of islets + fronting a background of dark rocky coastline similar to that at Cape + Denison but more extensive. + </p> + <p> + Some six miles east of D'Urville's Cape Discovery, a dangerous reef was + sighted extending at right angles across the course. The ship steamed + along it and her soundings demonstrated a submerged ridge continuing some + twelve miles out to sea. Captain Davis's narrative proceeds: + </p> + <p> + "Having cleared this obstacle we followed the coastline to the west from + point to point. Twelve miles away we could see the snow-covered slopes + rising from the seaward cliffs to an elevation of one thousand five + hundred feet. Several small islands were visible close to a shore fringed + by numerous large bergs. + </p> + <p> + "At 10 P.M. on January 20, our progress to the west was stopped by a fleet + of bergs off the mainland and an extensive field of berg-laden pack-ice, + trending to the north and north-east. Adelie Land could be traced + continuing to the west. Where it disappeared from view there was the + appearance of a barrier-formation, suggestive of shelf-ice, running in a + northerly direction. Skirting the pack-ice on a north and north-west + course, we observed the same appearance from the crow's-nest on January 21 + and 22." + </p> + <p> + The stretch of open, navigable, coastal water to the north of Adelie Land, + barred by the Mertz Glacier on the east and delimited on the west by more + or less compact ice, has been named the D'Urville Sea. We found + subsequently that its freedom from obstruction by ice is due to the + persistent gales which set off the land in that locality. To the north, + pack-ice in variable amount is encountered before reaching the wide open + ocean. + </p> + <p> + The existence of such a "barrier-formation,"** as indicated above, + probably resting on a line of reef similar to the one near Cape Discovery, + would account for the presence of this ice-field in practically the same + position as it was seen by D'Urville in 1840. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** An analysis of the data derived from the later voyages of the +'Aurora' makes it practically certain that there is a permanent obstacle +to the westerly drift of the pack-ice in longitude 137 degrees E. There +is, however, some uncertainty as to the cause of this blockage. An +alternative explanation is advanced, namely, that within the area +of comparatively shallow water, large bergs are entrapped, and these +entangle the drifting pack-ice. +</pre> + <p> + At a distance, large bergs would be undistinguishable from shelf-ice, + appearances of which were reported above. + </p> + <p> + Quoting further: "We were unable to see any trace of the high land + reported by the United States Squadron (1840) as lying to the west and + south beyond the compact ice. + </p> + <p> + "At 1.30 A.M. on the 23rd the pack-ice was seen to trend to the + south-west. After steaming west for twenty-five miles, we stood south in + longitude 182 degrees 30' E, shortly afterwards passing over the charted + position of Cote Clarie. The water here was clear of pack-ice, but studded + with bergs of immense size. The great barrier which the French ships + followed in 1840 had vanished. A collection of huge bergs was the sole + remnant to mark its former position. + </p> + <p> + "At 10 A.M., having passed to the south of the charted position of + D'Urville's Cote Clarie, we altered course to S. 10 degrees E. true. Good + observations placed us at noon in latitude 65 degrees 2' S. and 132 + degrees 26' E. A sounding on sand and small stones was taken in one + hundred and sixty fathoms. We sailed over the charted position of land + east of Wilkes's Cape Carr in clear weather. + </p> + <p> + "At 5.30 P.M. land was sighted to the southward—snowy highlands + similar to those of Adelie Land but greater in elevation. + </p> + <p> + "After sounding in one hundred and fifty-six fathoms on mud, the ship + stood directly towards the land until 9 P.M. The distance to the nearest + point was estimated at twenty miles; heavy floe-ice extending from our + position, latitude 65 degrees 45' S. and longitude 132 degrees 40' E., + right up to the shore. Another sounding realized two hundred and thirty + fathoms, on sand and small stones. Some open water was seen to the + south-east, but an attempt to force a passage in that direction was + frustrated. + </p> + <p> + "At 3 A.M. on the 24th we were about twelve miles from the nearest point + of the coast, and further progress became impossible. The southern slopes + were seamed with numerous crevasses, but at a distance the precise nature + of the shores could not be accurately determined." + </p> + <p> + To this country, which had never before been seen, was given the name of + Wilkes's Land; as it is only just to commemorate the American Exploring + Expedition on the Continent which its leader believed he had discovered in + these seas and which he would have found had Fortune favoured him with a + fair return for his heroic endeavours. + </p> + <p> + "We steered round on a north-westerly course, and at noon on January 24 + were slightly to the north of our position at 5.30 A.M. on the 23rd. A + sounding reached one hundred and seventy fathoms and a muddy bottom. + Environing us were enormous bergs of every kind, one hundred and eighty to + two hundred feet in height. During the afternoon a westerly course was + maintained in clear water until 4 P.M., when the course was altered to S. + 30 degrees W., in the hope of winning through to the land visible on the + southern horizon." + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Ship's tracks in the vicinity of Totten's Land and North's Land + </p> + <p> + At 8 P.M. the sky was very clear to the southward, and the land could be + traced to a great distance until it faded in the south-west. But the ship + had come up with the solid floe-ice once more, and had to give way and + steam along its edge. This floating breakwater held us off and frustrated + all attempts to reach the goal which we sought. + </p> + <p> + "The next four days was a period of violent gales and heavy seas which + drove the ship some distance to the north. Nothing was visible through + swirling clouds of snow. The 'Aurora' behaved admirably, as she invariably + does in heavy weather. The main pack was encountered on January 29, but + foggy weather prevailed. It was not until noon on January 31 that the + atmosphere was sufficiently clear to obtain good observations. The ship + was by this time in the midst of heavy floe in the vicinity of longitude + 119 degrees E., and again the course had swung round to south. We had soon + passed to the south of Balleny's Sabrina Land without any indication of + its existence. Considering the doubtful character of the statements + justifying its appearance on the chart, it is not surprising that we did + not verify them. + </p> + <p> + "At 11 A.M. the floes were found too heavy for further advance. The ship + was made fast to a big one and a large quantity of ice was taken on board + to replenish the fresh-water supply. A tank of two hundred gallons' + capacity, heated within by a steam coil from the engineroom, stood on the + poop deck. Into this ice was continuously fed, flowing away as it melted + into the main tanks in the bottom of the ship. + </p> + <p> + "At noon the weather was clear, but nothing could be discerned in the + south except a faint blue line on the horizon. It may have been a 'lead' + of water, an effect of mirage, or even land-ice—in any case we could + not approach it." + </p> + <p> + The position as indicated by the noon observations placed the ship within + seven miles of a portion of Totten's High Land in Wilkes's charts. As high + land would have been visible at a great distance, it is clear that + Totten's High Land either does not exist or is situated a considerable + distance from its charted location. A sounding was made in three hundred + and forty fathoms. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Ship's track in the vicinity of Knox Land and Budd Land + </p> + <p> + Towards evening the 'Aurora' turned back to open water and cruised along + the pack-ice. A sounding next day showed nine hundred and twenty-seven + fathoms. + </p> + <p> + It was about this time that a marked improvement was noted in the compass. + Ever since the first approach to Adelie Land it had been found unreliable, + for, on account of the proximity to the magnetic pole, the directive force + of the needle was so slight that very large local variations were + experienced. + </p> + <p> + The longitude of Wilkes's Knox Land was now approaching. With the + exception of Adelie Land, the account by Wilkes concerning Knox Land is + more convincing than any other of his statements relating to new Antarctic + land. If they had not already disembarked, we had hoped to land the + western party in that neighbourhood. It was, therefore, most disappointing + when impenetrable ice blocked the way, before Wilkes's "farthest south" in + that locality had been reached. Three determined efforts were made to find + a weak spot, but each time the 'Aurora' was forced to retreat, and the + third time was extricated only with great difficulty. In latitude 65 + degrees 5' S. longitude 107 degrees 20' E., a sounding of three hundred + fathoms was made on a rocky bottom. This sounding pointed to the + probability of land within sixty miles. + </p> + <p> + Repulsed from his attack on the pack, Captain Davis set out westward + towards the charted position of Termination Land, and in following the + trend of the ice was forced a long way to the north. + </p> + <p> + At 7.40 A.M., February 8, in foggy weather, the ice-cliff of floating + shelf-ice was met. This was disposed so as to point in a north-westerly + direction and it was late in the day before the ship doubled its northern + end. Here the sounding wire ran out for eight hundred and fifty fathoms + without reaching bottom. Following the wall towards the south-south-east, + it was interesting at 5.30 P.M. to find a sounding of one hundred and ten + fathoms in latitude 64 degrees 45'. A line of large grounded bergs and + massive floe-ice was observed ahead trailing away from the ice-wall + towards the north-west. + </p> + <p> + On plotting the observations, it became apparent that the shelf-ice was in + the form of a prolonged tongue some seven miles in breadth. As it occupied + the position of the "Termination Land" which has appeared on some charts, + (after Wilkes) it was named Termination Ice-Tongue. + </p> + <p> + A blizzard sprang up, and, after it had been safely weathered in the lee + of some grounded bergs, the 'Aurora' moved off on the afternoon of + February 11. The horizon was obscured by mist, as she pursued a tortuous + track amongst bergs and scattered lumps of heavy floe. Gradually the sea + became more open, and by noon on February 12 the water had deepened to two + hundred and thirty-five fathoms. Good progress was made to the south; the + vessel dodging icebergs and detached floes. + </p> + <p> + The discovery of a comparatively open sea southward of the main pack was a + matter of some moment. As later voyages and the observations of the + Western Party showed, this tract of sea is a permanent feature of the + neighbourhood. I have called it the Davis Sea, after the captain of the + 'Aurora', in appreciation of the fact that he placed it on the chart. + </p> + <p> + At noon, on February 13, in latitude 65 degrees 54 1/2' S. longitude 94 + degrees 25' E., the western face of a long, floating ice-tongue loomed + into view. There were five hundred fathoms of water off its extremity, and + the cliffs rose vertically to one hundred feet. Soon afterwards land was + clearly defined low in the south extending to east and west. This was + thenceforth known as Queen Mary Land. + </p> + <p> + The sphere of operations of the German expedition of 1902 was near at + hand, for its vessel, the 'Gauss', had wintered, frozen in the pack, one + hundred and twenty-five miles to the west. It appeared probable that Queen + Mary Land would be found to be continuous** with Kaiser Wilhelm II Land, + which the Germans had reached by a sledging journey from their ship across + the intervening sea-ice. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Such was eventually proved to be the case. +</pre> + <p> + The 'Aurora' followed the western side of the ice-tongue for about twenty + miles in a southerly direction, at which point there was a white expanse + of floe extending right up to the land. Wild and Kennedy, walking several + miles towards the land, estimated that it was about twenty-five miles + distant. As the surface over which they travelled was traversed by cracks + and liable to drift away to sea, all projects of landing there had to be + abandoned; furthermore, it was discovered that the ice-tongue, alongside + of which the ship lay, was a huge iceberg. A landing on it had been + contemplated, but was now out of question. + </p> + <p> + The main difficulty which arose at this juncture was the failing + coal-supply. It was high time to return to Hobart, and, if a western base + was to be formed at all, Wild's party would have to be landed without + further delay. After a consultation, Davis and Wild decided that under the + circumstances an attempt should be made to gain a footing on the adjacent + shelf-ice, if nothing better presented itself. + </p> + <p> + The night was passed anchored to the floe, on the edge of which were + numerous Emperor penguins and Weddell seals. A fresh south-easterly wind + blew on February 14, and the ship was kept in the shelter of the iceberg. + During the day enormous pieces were observed to be continually breaking + away from the berg and drifting to leeward. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis continues: "At midnight there was a strong swell from the + north-east and the temperature went down to 18 degrees F. At 4 A.M., + February 15, we reached the northern end of the berg and stood first of + all to the east, and then later to the south-east. + </p> + <p> + "At 8.45 A.M., shelf-ice was observed from aloft, trending approximately + north and south in a long wall. At noon we came up with the floe-ice + again, in about the same latitude as on the western side of the long + iceberg. Land could be seen to the southward. At 1 P.M. the ship stopped + at the junction of the floe and the shelf-ice." + </p> + <p> + Wild, Harrison and Hoadley went to examine the shelf-ice with a view to + its suitability for a wintering station. The cliff was eighty to one + hundred feet in height, so that the ice in total thickness must have + attained at least as much as six hundred feet. Assisted by snow-ramps + slanting down on to the floe, the ascent with ice-axes and alpine rope was + fairly easy. + </p> + <p> + Two hundred yards from the brink, the shelf-ice was thrown into + pressure-undulations and fissured by crevasses, but beyond that was + apparently sound and unbroken. About seventeen miles to the south the + rising slopes of ice-mantled land were visible, fading away to the far + east and west. + </p> + <p> + The ice-shelf was proved later on to extend for two hundred miles from + east to west, ostensibly fusing with the Termination Ice-Tongue, whose + extremity is one hundred and eighty miles to the north. The whole has been + called the Shackleton Ice-Shelf. + </p> + <p> + Wild and his party unanimously agreed to seize upon this last opportunity, + and to winter on the floating ice. + </p> + <p> + The work of discharging stores was at once commenced. To raise the + packages from the floe to the top of the ice-shelf, a "flying-fox" was + rigged. + </p> + <p> + "A kedge-anchor was buried in the sea-ice, and from this a + two-and-a-half-inch wire-hawser was led upwards over a pair of sheer-legs + on top of the cliff to another anchor buried some distance back. The whole + was set taut by a tackle. The stores were then slung to a travelling + pulley on the wire, and hauled on to the glacier by means of a rope led + through a second pulley on the sheer-legs. The ship's company broke stores + out of the hold and sledged them three hundred yards to the foot of an + aerial, where they were hooked on to the travelling-block by which the + shore party, under Wild, raised them to their destination." + </p> + <p> + "It was most important to accelerate the landing as much as possible, not + only on account of the lateness of the season—the 'Gauss' had been + frozen in on February 22 at a spot only one hundred and seventy miles away—but + because the floe was gradually breaking up and floating away. When the + last load was hoisted, the water was lapping within ten yards of the + 'flying-fox'". + </p> + <p> + A fresh west-north-west wind on February 17 caused some trouble. Captain + Davis writes: + </p> + <p> + "February 19. The floe to which we have been attached is covered by a foot + of water. The ship has been bumping a good deal to-day. Notwithstanding + the keen wind and driving snow, every one has worked well. Twelve tons of + coal were the last item to go up the cliff." + </p> + <p> + In all, thirty-six tons of stores were raised on to the shelf-ice, one + hundred feet above sea-level, in four days. + </p> + <p> + "February 20. The weather is very fine and quite a contrast to yesterday. + We did not get the coal ashore a moment too soon, as this morning the ice + marked by our sledge tracks went to sea in a north-westerly direction, and + this afternoon it is drifting back as if under the influence of a tide or + current. We sail at 7 A.M. to-morrow. + </p> + <p> + "I went on to the glacier with Wild during the afternoon. It is somewhat + crevassed for about two hundred yards inland, and then a flat surface + stretches away as far as the eye can see. I wished the party 'God-speed' + this evening, as we sail early to-morrow." + </p> + <p> + Early on February 21, the ship's company gave their hearty farewell + cheers, and the 'Aurora' sailed north, leaving Wild and his seven + companions on the floating ice. + </p> + <p> + The bright weather of the immediate coastal region was soon exchanged for + the foggy gloom of the pack. + </p> + <p> + "February 21, 11 P.M. We are now passing a line of grounded bergs and some + heavy floe-ice. Fortunately it is calm, but in the darkness it is + difficult to see an opening. The weather is getting thick, and I expect we + shall have trouble in working through this line of bergs. + </p> + <p> + "February 22. I cannot explain how we managed to clear some of the bergs + between 11 P.M. last night and 3 A.M. this morning. At first stopping and + lying-to was tried, but it was soon evident that the big bergs were moving + and would soon hem us in: probably in a position from which we should be + unable to extricate ourselves this season. + </p> + <p> + "So we pushed this way and that, endeavouring to retain freedom at any + cost. For instance, about midnight I was 'starboarding' to clear what + appeared to be the loom of a berg on the starboard bow, when, suddenly, + out of the haze a wall seemed to stretch across our course. There was no + room to turn, so 'full speed astern' was the only alternative. The engines + responded immediately, or we must have crashed right into a huge berg. + Until daylight it was ice ahead, to port and to starboard—ice + everywhere all the time. The absence of wind saved us from disaster. It + was a great relief when day broke, showing clearer water to the + northward." + </p> + <p> + On February 23, the 'Aurora' left the shelter of Termination Ice-Tongue, + and a course was set nearly true north. There was a fresh breeze from the + north-east and a high sea. The ship was desperately short of ballast and + the coal had to be carefully husbanded. All movable gear was placed in the + bottom of the ship, while the ashes were saved, wetted and put below. The + ballast-tanks were found to be leaking and Gillies had considerable + trouble in making them watertight. + </p> + <p> + The distance from the Western Base in Queen Mary Land to Hobart was two + thousand three hundred miles, through the turbulent seas of the fifties + and forties. It was the end of a perilous voyage when the 'Aurora' arrived + in Hobart with nine tons of coal. + </p> + <p> + On March 12, the captain's log records: + </p> + <p> + "The 'Aurora' has done splendidly, beating all attempts of the weather to + turn her over. We had two heavy gales during the first week of March, but + reached Hobart safely to-day, passing on our way up the Derwent the famous + Polar ship, 'Fram', at anchor in Sandy Bay. Flags were dipped and a hearty + cheer given for Captain Amundsen and his gallant comrades who had raised + the siege of the South Pole." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V FIRST DAYS IN ADELIE LAND + </h2> + <p> + The overcrowded whale-boat disgorged its cargo at 10 P.M. on the ice-quay + at Cape Denison. The only shelter was a cluster of four tents and the + Benzine Hut, so the first consideration was the erection of a commodious + living-hut. + </p> + <p> + While the majority retired to rest to be ready for a fresh burst of work + on the morrow, a few of us discussed the preliminary details, and struck + the first blows in the laying of the foundations. + </p> + <p> + A site for the living-hut was finally approved. This was a nearly flat + piece of rocky ground of just sufficient size, partially sheltered on the + southern side by a large upstanding rock. Other points to recommend it + were, proximity to the boat harbour and to a good sledging surface; the + ice of the glacier extending to the "front door" on the western side. + Several large rocks had to be shifted, and difficulty was anticipated in + the firm setting of the stumps. The latter were blocks of wood, three feet + in length, embedded in the ground, forming the foundation of the + structure. Unfortunately, no such thing as earth or gravel existed in + which to sink these posts, and the rock being of the variety known as + gneiss, was more than ordinarily tough. + </p> + <p> + Since two parties had combined, there were two huts available, and these + were to be erected so that the smaller adjoined and was in the lee of the + larger. The latter was to be the living-room; the former serving as a + vestibule, a workshop and an engine-room for the wireless plant. Slight + modifications were made in the construction of both huts, but these did + not affect the framework. After the completion of the living-hut, regular + scientific observations were to commence, and the smaller hut was then to + be built as opportunity offered. + </p> + <p> + Nothing has so far been said about the type of hut adopted by our + Antarctic stations. As the subject is important, and we had expended much + thought thereon before coming to a final decision, a few remarks will not + be out of place. + </p> + <p> + Strength to resist hurricanes, simplicity of construction, portability and + resistance to external cold were fundamental. My first idea was to have + the huts in the form of pyramids on a square base, to ensure stability in + heavy winds and with a large floor-area to reduce the amount of timber + used. The final type was designed at the expense of floor-space, which + would have been of little use because of the low roof in the parts thus + eliminated. In this form, the pyramid extended to within five feet of the + ground on the three windward sides so as to include an outside veranda. + That veranda, like the motor-launch, was a wonderful convenience, and + another of the many things of which we made full use. It lent stability to + the structure, assisted to keep the hut warm, served as a store-house, + physical laboratory and a dogshelter. + </p> + <p> + Round the outside of the three veranda walls boxes of stores were stacked, + so as to continue the roof-slope to the ground. Thus, the wind striking + the hut met no vertical face, but was partly deflected; the other + force-component tending to pin the building to the ground. + </p> + <p> + All three huts were essentially of the same construction. The largest, on + account of its breadth, had four special supporting posts, symmetrically + placed near the centre, stretching from the ground to the roof framework. + The only subdivisions inside were a small vestibule, a photographic + darkroom and my own room. This rough idea I had handed over to Hodgeman, + leaving him to complete the details and to draw up the plans. The frame + timbers he employed were stronger than usual in a building of the size, + and were all securely bolted together. The walls and roof, both inside and + outside, were of tongued and grooved pine-boards, made extra wind-proof by + two courses of tarred paper. As rain was not expected, this roofing was + sufficient. There were four windows in the roof, one on each side of the + pyramid. We should thereby get light even though almost buried in snow. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Plan of the hut, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + The largest hut was presented by the timber merchants of Sydney, and + proved its astonishing strength during the winter hurricanes. The smallest + was purchased in Adelaide, the third was built and presented by Messrs. + Anthony of Melbourne. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of January 20 all were at work betimes. As we were securely + isolated from a trades hall, our hours of labour ranged from 7 A.M. till + 11 P.M. + </p> + <p> + Dynamite was to be used for blasting out the holes for the reception of + the stumps, and so the steel rock-drills were unpacked and boring + commenced. This was easier than it appeared, because the rock was much + traversed by cracks. By the end of the day a good deal of damage had been + done to the rock, at the expense of a few sore fingers and wrists caused + by the sledge-hammers missing the drills. The work was tedious, for water + introduced into the holes had a habit of freezing. The metal drills, too, + tended to be brittle in the cold and required to be tempered softer than + usual. Hannam operated the forge, and picks and drills were sent along for + pointing; an outcrop of gneiss serving as an anvil. + </p> + <p> + Among other things it was found difficult to fire the charges, for, when + frozen, dynamite is not readily exploded. This was overcome by carrying + the sticks inside one's pocket until the last moment. In the absence of + earth or clay, we had no tamping material until some one suggested guano + from the penguin rookeries, which proved a great success. + </p> + <p> + Next day the stumps were in place; most of them being fixed by wedges and + other devices. Cement was tried, but it is doubtful if any good came of + it, for the low temperature did not encourage it to set well. By the + evening, the bottom plates were laid on and bolted to the tops of the + stumps, and everything was ready for the superstructure. + </p> + <p> + On January 22, while some were busy with the floor-joists and wall-frames, + others carried boulders from the neighbouring moraine, filling in the + whole space between the stumps. These were eventually embedded in a mass + of boulders, as much as three feet deep in places. By the time both huts + were erected, nearly fifty tons of stones had been used in the foundations—a + circumstance we did not regret at a later date. + </p> + <p> + Hodgeman was appointed clerk of works on the construction, and was kept + unusually busy selecting timber, patrolling among the workmen, and + searching for his foot-rule which had an unaccountable trick of vanishing + in thin air. + </p> + <p> + Hannam had various occupations, but one was to attend to the needs of the + inner man, until the completion of the hut. There is no doubt that he was + regarded at this time as the most important and popular member of the + party, for our appetites were abnormally good. About an hour before meals + he was to be seen rummaging amongst the cases of provisions, selecting + tins of various brands and hues from the great confusion. However remote + their source or diverse their colour, experience taught us that only one + preparation would emerge from the tent-kitchen. It was a multifarious + stew. Its good quality was undoubted, for a few minutes after the + "dinner-bell rang" there was not a particle left. The "dinner-bell" was a + lusty shout from the master cook, which was re-echoed by the brawny mob + who rushed madly to the Benzine Hut. Plates and mugs were seized and + portions measured out, while the diners distributed themselves on odd + boxes lying about on the ice. Many who were accustomed to restaurants + built tables of kerosene cases and dined al fresco. After the limited + stew, the company fared on cocoa, biscuits—"hard tack"—and + jam, all ad libitum. + </p> + <p> + On those rare summer days, the sun blazed down on the blue ice; skua gulls + nestled in groups on the snow; sly penguins waddled along to inspect the + building operations; seals basked in torpid slumber on the shore; out on + the sapphire bay the milk-white bergs floated in the swell. We can all + paint our own picture of the good times round the Benzine Hut. We worked + hard, ate heartily and enjoyed life. + </p> + <p> + By the evening of January 24 the floor and outside walls were finished, + and the roof-frame was in position. Work on the roof was the coldest job + of all, for now there was rarely an hour free from a cold breeze, at times + reaching the velocity of a gale. This came directly down from the plateau, + and to sit with exposed fingers handling hammer and nails was not an + enviable job. To add to our troubles, the boards were all badly warped + from being continually wet with sea-water on the voyage. However, by + judicious "gadgetting," as the phrase went, they were got into place. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Sections across the hut, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + The windward roof was up on January 25, and several of us camped in + sleeping-bags under its shelter. Already Hannam had unpacked the large + range and put the parts together in the kitchen. Henceforth the cooking + operations were simplified, for previously a sledging-cooker had been + used. + </p> + <p> + Mention of the stove recalls a very cold episode. It happened that while + our goods were being lifted from the boats to the landing-stage, a case + had fallen into the harbour. When the parts of the stove were being + assembled, several important items were found to be missing, and it was + thought that they might compose the contents of the unknown case lying in + the kelp at the bottom of the bay. + </p> + <p> + Laseron and I went on board the whale-boat one day at low water, and + located the box with a pole, but though we used several devices with + hooks, we were unable to get hold of it. At last I went in, and, standing + on tip-toe, could just reach it and keep my head above water. It took some + time to extricate from the kelp, following which I established a new + record for myself in dressing. The case turned out to be full of jam, and + we had to make a new search for the missing parts. I do not think I looked + very exhilarated after that bath, but strange to say, a few days later + Correll tried an early morning swim which was the last voluntary dip + attempted by any one. + </p> + <p> + The enthusiasm of the builders rose to its highest pitch as the roof + neared completion, and we came in sight of a firm and solid habitation, + secure from the winds which harassed us daily. A dozen hammers worked at + once, each concentrated upon a specific job. The ardour with which those + engaged upon the ceiling inside the hut plied their nails resulted in + several minor casualties to those sitting on the roof, deeply intent on + the outer lining. A climax was reached when McLean, working on the steeply + inclined roof, lost his footing and, in passing, seized hold of the + wire-stay of the chimney as a last hope. Alas, that was the only stay, and + as he proceeded over the end of the roof into a bank of snow, Ninnis, + within the hut, convinced that nothing less than a cyclone had struck the + building, gallantly held on to the lower hot section amidst a shower of + soot. + </p> + <p> + Everybody was in the best of spirits, and things went ahead merrily. On + January 30 the main building was almost completed, and all slept under its + roof. Bunks had been constructed, forming a double tier around three sides + of the room. For the first time since coming ashore we retired to sleep in + blankets; fur sleeping-bags had been previously used. That night the sky + which had been clear for a fortnight banked up with nimbus cloud, and + Murphy, who was sleeping under a gap in the roof, woke up next morning to + find over him a fine counterpane of snow. He received hearty + congratulations all round. + </p> + <p> + Regular meteorological observations began on February 1. The various + instruments had been unpacked as soon as the outer shell of the Hut was + completed. The barometer and barograph were kept running inside. Outside + there were two large screens for the reception of a number of the + instruments. It was important to erect these as near the Hut as possible. + The standard thermometer, thermograph and hygrograph were to occupy one of + the screens, a convenient site for which was chosen about twenty yards to + the east. Close by there was also a nephoscope for determining the motion + of clouds. The immediate vicinity of the Hut, being a gully-like + depression, was unsuitable for the wind and sunshine recorders. A more + distant site, on a rocky ridge to the east, was chosen for these. There + were set up a recording anemometer (wind-velocity meter), a sunshine-meter + and the second screen containing the anemograph (wind-direction recorder). + </p> + <p> + Madigan was to take charge of the meteorological observations and he, + assisted by Ninnis and Mertz, erected the two screens and mounted the + instruments. Special care was taken to secure the screens against violent + winds. Phosphor-bronze wire-stays, with a breaking strength of one ton, + were used, attached to billets of wood driven into fissures in the rock. + Strong as these wires were, several breakages had to be replaced during + the year. + </p> + <p> + Webb was busy with the magnetic work. For this two huts were to be + erected; the first for "absolute" determinations, the second for housing + the recording instruments—the magnetographs. Distant sites, away + from the magnetic disturbances of the Hut, were chosen. Webb and Stillwell + immediately set to work as soon as they could be spared from the main + building. For the "absolute hut" there were only scrap materials + available; the "magnetograph house," alone, had been brought complete. + They had a chilly job, for as the days went by the weather steadily became + worse. Yet in a little over a week there were only the finishing touches + to make, and the first observations were started. + </p> + <p> + It was now necessary to institute a routine of nightwatchmen, cooks and + messmen. The night-watchman's duties included periodic meteorological + observations, attention to the fire in the range, and other miscellaneous + duties arising between the hours of 8 P.M. and 8 A. M. The cook prepared + the meals, and the messman of the day rendered any assistance necessary. A + rotation was adopted, so arranged that those most actively engaged in + scientific observations were least saddled with domestic duties. Thus each + contributed his equivalent share of work. + </p> + <p> + Whilst others were occupied finishing off the interior of the hut, Whetter + and Close sledged the cases of stores across from the landing-stage, + classified them and stacked them against the veranda walls. An additional + barricade was constructed of flour cases, in the form of a wall, which + increased the breadth of the rocky break-wind on the southern side. + </p> + <p> + Murphy, who was in charge of all the stores, saw that a good stock of food + was accessible in the veranda. Here he put up shelves and unpacked cases, + so that samples of everything were at hand on the shortest notice. Liquids + liable to freeze and burst their bottles were taken into the Hut. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + The vicinity of the main base, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Already we had several times seized the opportunity of a calm hour to take + out the whale-boat and assist Hunter to set traps and make a few hauls + with the hand-dredge. Even in five fathoms, bright red and brown star-fish + had been caught in the trap, as well as numerous specimens of a common + Antarctic fish known as 'Notothenia'. In ten fathoms and over the results + were better, though in no case was the catch so abundant as one would + expect from the amount of life in the water. The luxuriant kelp probably + interfered with the proper working of the traps. Fish of the same species + as the above were caught on a hand-line. + </p> + <p> + Hunter, our biologist, was very unfortunate in crushing some of his + fingers while carrying a heavy case. This accident came at a time when he + had just recovered from a severe strain of the knee-joint which he + suffered during our activities in the Queen's Wharf shed at Hobart. + Several of us were just going out to the traps one afternoon when the + casualty occurred. Hunter was very anxious to go, so we waited until + McLean had sewn up a couple of his fingertips. + </p> + <p> + Weddell, and with them occasional crab-eater seals, were at this time + always to be found in numbers sleeping on the ice-foot around the boat + harbour. It appeared as if we would have plenty of meat throughout the + year, so I waited until the building was completed before laying in a + stock. The penguins, however, were diminishing in numbers fast and the + young birds in the rookeries had grown very large and were beginning to + migrate to warmer regions. Several parties, therefore, raided them and + secured some hundreds for the winter. + </p> + <p> + Giant petrels and skua gulls swarmed in flocks round the seals' and + penguins' carcases. These scavengers demolish an incredible amount of meat + and blubber in a short time. It is a diabolical sight to witness a group + of birds tearing out the viscera of a seal, dancing the while with wings + outspread. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon of February 11 Webb came in with the news that a sea + elephant was making its way over the rocks near the shore. We rushed out + in time to see it standing over Johnson, one of the dogs, who, true to his + name, did not look abashed. Attracted by more formidable antagonists, the + monster left Johnson and came towards us. He was a fair-sized male with a + good skin, so we shot him before he had time to get back into the sea. His + measurements were seventeen feet six inches in length and twelve feet in + maximum circumference. + </p> + <p> + With the temperature well below freezing-point, skinning is cold work in + the wind, and must be done before the animal has time to freeze stiff. A + number of us set to work flaying. In order to move the mountain of flesh a + Westing purchase and a "handy-billy" (rope and block purchase) had to be + rigged. It was several hours before everything was disposed of; the skin + and skull for the biological collection and the meat and blubber for the + dogs. Ninnis and Mertz, who were the wardens of the dogs, cut up about one + ton of meat and blubber, and stored it as a winter reserve for their + charges. + </p> + <p> + It may be mentioned that sea elephants are sub-antarctic in distribution, + and only rarely have these animals been observed on the shores of the + Antarctic continent. As far as I am aware, the only other occasion of such + an occurrence was noted by Captain Scott in MacMurdo Sound. Wilkes + reported many of them on the pack-ice to the north of the Balleny Islands, + so possibly they have a stronghold in that vicinity. + </p> + <p> + The dogs, ever since their arrival ashore, had been chained up on the + rocks below the Hut. The continuous wind worried them a good deal, but + they had a substantial offset to the cold in a plentiful supply of + seal-meat. On the whole, they were in a much better condition then when + they left the 'Aurora'. Nineteen in all, they had an odd assemblage of + names, which seemed to grow into them until nothing else was so suitable: + Basilisk, Betli, Caruso, Castor, Franklin, Fusilier, Gadget, George, + Ginger, Ginger Bitch, Grandmother, Haldane, Jappy, John Bull, Johnson, + Mary, Pavlova, Scott and Shackleton. Grandmother would have been better + known as Grandfather. He was said to have a grandmotherly appearance; that + is why he received the former name. The head dog was Basilisk, and next to + him came Shackleton. + </p> + <p> + Early in February, after having experienced nothing but a succession of + gales for nearly a month, I was driven to conclude that the average local + weather must be much more windy than in any other part of Antarctica. The + conditions were not at all favourable for sledging, which I had hoped to + commence as soon as the Hut was completed. Now that the time had arrived + and the weather was still adverse, it seemed clear that our first duty was + to see everything snug for the winter before making an attempt. + </p> + <p> + Hannam, assisted by Bickerton, Madigan and others, had laid heavy and firm + foundations for the petrol-motor and generator. The floor of the smaller + room was then built around these bed-plates, and last of all came the + walls and roof. Murphy, Bage and Hodgeman were chiefly responsible for the + last-named, which was practically completed by February 10. Minor + additions and modifications were added after that date. Meanwhile, Hannam + continued to unpack and mount the instruments forming the wireless plants. + Along one wall and portion of another, in the outer hut, a bench was built + for mechanical work and for scientific purposes. This was in future to be + the work-room. + </p> + <p> + Our home had attained to a stage of complex perfection. To penetrate to + the inside hut, the stranger reverently steps through a hole in the snow + to the veranda, then by way of a vestibule with an inner and outer door he + has invaded the privacy of the work-room, from which with fear and + trembling he passes by a third door into the sanctum sanctorum. Later, + when the snow-tunnel system came into vogue, the place became another + Labyrinth of Minos. + </p> + <p> + The three doors were fitted with springs to keep them shut unless they + were jammed open for ventilation, which was at once obtained by opening an + aperture in the cooking-range flue. A current of air would then circulate + through the open doors. The roof windows were immovable and sealed on the + inside by a thick accumulation of ice. An officer of public health, + unacquainted with the climate of Adelie Land, would be inclined to regard + the absence of more adequate ventilation as a serious omission. It would + enlighten him to know that much of our spare time, for a month after the + completion of the building, was spent in plugging off draughts which found + their way through most unexpected places, urged by a wind-pressure from + without of many pounds to the square foot. + </p> + <p> + Excepting the small portion used as an entrance-porch, the verandas were + left without any better flooring than well-trodden snow. In the boarded + floor of the porch was a trap-door which led down into a shallow cellar + extending under a portion of the work-room. The cellar was a refrigerating + chamber for fresh meat and contained fifteen carcases of mutton, besides + piles of seal-meat and penguins. + </p> + <p> + In preparation for our contemplated sledging, masts, spars and sails were + fitted to some of the sledges, rations were prepared and alterations made + to harness and clothing. Soon a sledge stood packed, ready to set out on + the first fine day. + </p> + <p> + For several days in succession, about the middle of February, the + otherwise continuous wind fell off to a calm for several hours in the + evening. On those occasions Mertz gave us some fine exhibitions of skiing, + of which art he was a consummate master. Skis had been provided for every + one, in case we should have to traverse a country where the snow lay soft + and deep. From the outset, there was little chance of that being the case + in wind-scoured Adelie Land. Nevertheless, most of the men seized the few + opportunities we had to become more practiced in their use. My final + opinion, however, was that if we had all been experts like Mertz, we could + have used them with advantage from time to time. + </p> + <p> + The end of February approached. We were fully prepared for sledging, and + were looking forward to it with great expectation. The wind still + continued, often rising to the force of a hurricane, and was mostly + accompanied by snow. + </p> + <p> + One evening, when we were all at dinner, there was a sudden noise which + drowned the rush of the blizzard. It was found that several sledges had + been blown away from their position to the south of the Hut, striking the + building as they passed. They were all rescued except one, which had + already reached the sea and was travelling rapidly toward Australia. + </p> + <p> + Mertz, Bage and I had taken advantage of a lull to ascend the ice-slope to + the south, and to erect a flag-pole at a distance of two miles. Besides + being a beacon for sledging parties, it was used for ablation + measurements. These were determinations of the annual wasting of the + ice-surface, whether by evaporation, melting, or wind-abrasion. + </p> + <p> + Webb and Stillwell, assisted by others, had commenced to build the + Magnetograph House. Dr. Chree, of the British National Physical + Laboratory, had arranged that the German Antarctic Expedition, several + observatories in low latitudes and our own Expedition, should take special + "quick runs," synchronously, twice each month. A "quick run" was a + continuous, careful observation made over a period of two hours, on a more + searching time-scale then usual. Until the Magnetograph House was + established this could not be done efficiently, and so the construction of + this hut was pushed on as quickly as possible. + </p> + <p> + Many other schemes required our attention, and there was not a spare + moment for any one. Though we chafed at the delay in sledging, there was + some consolation in the fact that the scientific programme was daily + becoming more and more complete. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI AUTUMN PROSPECTS + </h2> + <p> + As far as we could see, the inland ice was an unbroken plateau with no + natural landmarks. From the hinterland in a vast solid stream the ice + flowed, with heavily crevassed downfalls near the coast. Traversing this + from north to south was a narrow belt, reasonably free from pitfalls, + running as a spur down to the sea. To reach the Hut in safety it would be + necessary for sledging parties returning from the interior to descend by + this highway. The problem was to locate the path. Determinations of + latitude and longitude would guide them to the neighbourhood of + Commonwealth Bay, but the coastline in the vicinity of Winter Quarters, + with the rocks and islets, would not come into view until within two + miles, as above that point the icy slopes filled the foreground up to the + distant berg-studded horizon. Delays in reaching the Hut owing to the + difficult descent might have serious consequences, for provisions are + usually short near the conclusion of a sledging journey. + </p> + <p> + The necessity of making artificial landmarks was, therefore, most obvious. + Already we had a flagstaff two miles to the south. It was now my intention + to run a line of similar marks backwards to the plateau. + </p> + <p> + Bage, Madigan and I were to form a reconnoitring party to plant these + flags, and to make a journey of a few days' duration into the hinterland, + to see its possibilities, and with a view to an extended sledging campaign + to commence as soon as possible after our return. It was decided not to + make use of the dogs until later in the year, when they would be in better + form. + </p> + <p> + The wind continued, accompanied by more or less drift-snow. This appeared + to be the settled state of the weather. We decided to move out as soon as + a moderate phase should occur. + </p> + <p> + On the afternoon of February 28 the weather cleared up for several hours, + and we decided to leave on the following day. The wind resumed operations + once more, but fell off late on February 29, when we made a start. We + intended to get the packed sledge up the first steep slope, there to leave + it until the morrow. The drift was slight and low, flowing along like a + stream below our knees. Bickerton, Hurley and Mertz assisted us with the + hauling. At a distance of a little more than a mile, at an elevation of + five hundred feet, the sledge was anchored and we returned to the Hut for + the night. + </p> + <p> + Next morning the weather cleared still more, and we left just before noon. + Three miles out, a mast and flag were erected, when our companions of the + day before, who had again assisted us, turned back. At five and a half + miles the brow of the main rise was reached, and the gradient became much + flatter beyond it. The elevation was found to be one thousand five hundred + feet. + </p> + <p> + To the south nothing was visible but a great, wan, icy wilderness. To the + north a headland appeared on either hand, each about twenty-five miles + away, and between them lay an expanse of sea dotted with many bergs. The + nearer portions of the coast, together with the Mackellar Islets, were + lost to view on account of the curvature of the foreground. + </p> + <p> + During most of the day we had travelled over a surface of clear ice, + marked by occasional scars where fissuring, now healed, had at some time + taken place. Beyond the three-mile flag, however, the ice was gashed at + frequent intervals, producing irregular crevasses, usually a few yards in + length and, for the most part, choked with snow. At five and a half miles + we were on the edge of a strip of snow, half a mile across, whose + whiteness was thrown in dazzling contrast against the foil of transparent, + dark ice. + </p> + <p> + It was dusk, and light drift commenced to scud by, so, as this was a + suitable place to erect a flag, we decided to camp for the night. Some + hours later I woke up to hear a blizzard blowing outside, and to find + Madigan fumbling amongst some gear at the head-end of the tent. From + inside my bag I called out to inquire if there was anything wrong, and + received a reply that he was looking for the primus-pricker. Then he + slipped back into his sleeping-bag, and all became quiet, except for the + snow beating against the tent. So I presumed that he had found it. + Revolving the incident in my mind, and dimly wondering what use he could + have for a primus-pricker in the middle of the night, I again fell asleep. + In the morning the blizzard was still blowing, accompanied by a good deal + of drift. On inquiry I found that Madigan knew nothing of his midnight + escapade. It was a touch of somnambulism. + </p> + <p> + It would serve no useful purpose to go on in thick drift, for the main + object of our journey was to define the best route through the crevassed + zone; and that could only be done on a clear day. I decided, accordingly, + that if the weather did not improve by noon to leave the sledge with the + gear and walk back to the Hut, intending to make another attempt when + conditions became more settled. + </p> + <p> + Whilst the others erected a flagstaff and froze the legs of a drift-proof + box (containing a thermograph) into the ice, I made lunch and prepared for + our departure. The tent was taken down and everything lashed securely on + the sledge. + </p> + <p> + It was nearly 3 P.M. when we set out in thick drift, and in two hours we + were at the Hut; the weather having steadily improved as we descended. On + comparing notes with those at home it appeared that we, at the fifteen + hundred feet level, had experienced much more wind and drift than they at + sea-level. + </p> + <p> + Webb and his assistants were beginning to make quite a display at the + Magnetograph House. The framework, which had already been erected once, to + be demolished by the wind, was now strongly rebuilt and was ready for the + outside covering of boards. + </p> + <p> + From the night of our return to March 8 there was a high wind accompanied + by much drift; for some hours it continued at eighty miles per hour, the + mean temperature being about 15 degrees F., with a minimum of 5 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + Up to this date the dogs had been kept on the chain, on account of their + depredations amongst the seals and penguins. The severe weather now made + it necessary to release them. Thenceforth, their abode for part of the day + was inside the veranda, where a section was barricaded-off for their + exclusive use. Outside in heavy drift their habit was to take up a + position in the lee of some large object, such as the Hut. In such a + position they were soon completely buried and oblivious to the outside + elements. Thus one would sometimes tread on a dog, hidden beneath the + snow; and the dog often showed less surprise than the offending man. What + the dogs detested most of all during the blizzard-spells was the + drift-snow filling their eyes until they were forced to stop and brush it + away frantically with their paws. Other inconveniences were the icy casing + which formed from the thawing snow on their thick coats, and the fact that + when they lay in one position, especially on ice, for any length of time + they become frozen down, and only freed themselves at the expense of tufts + of hair. In high winds, accompanied by a low temperature, they were + certainly very miserable, unless in some kind of shelter. + </p> + <p> + Several families were born at this time, but although we did everything + possible for them they all perished, except one; the offspring of Gadget. + This puppy was called "Blizzard." It was housed for a while in the veranda + and, later on, in the Hangar. Needless to say, Blizzard was a great + favourite and much in demand as a pet. + </p> + <p> + On the night of March 7, Caruso, who had been in poor condition for some + time, was found to have a gaping wound around the neck. It was a clean + cut, an inch deep and almost a foot in length. The cause was never + satisfactorily explained, though a piece of strong string embedded in the + wound evidently made the incision. Caruso was brought inside, and, whilst + Whetter administered chloroform, McLean sewed up the wound. After careful + attention for some days, it healed fairly well, but as the dog's general + health was worse, it was deemed advisable to shoot him. + </p> + <p> + The outer shell of the Magnetograph House was nearly completed, affording + a protection for those who worked on the interior linings. When completed, + the walls and roof consisted of two coverings of tongued and grooved pine + boards and three layers of thick tarred paper. + </p> + <p> + While there still remained a breach in the wall, Hurley repaired there + with his cinematograph camera and took a film showing the clouds of + drift-snow whirling past. In those days we were not educated in methods of + progression against heavy winds; so, in order to get Hurley and his bulky + camera back to the Hut, we formed a scrum on the windward side and with a + strong "forward" rush beat our formidable opponent. + </p> + <p> + On March 8 the blizzard died away and a good day followed. All hands + joined in building a solid stone outside of the Magnetograph House. This + piece of work, in which thirty tons of rock were utilized, was completed + on the following day. The wall reached almost to the roof on every side. + The unprotected roof was lagged with sacks and sheep-skins and, after this + had been effected, the hut became practically windtight. The external + covering controlled the influx of cold from the penetrating winds, and, on + the other hand, the conduction of the sun's warmth in summer. Thus a + steady temperature was maintained; a most desirable feature in a + magnetograph house. Webb had the instruments set up in a few days, and + they were working before the end of the month. + </p> + <p> + After the calm of March 8, the wind steadily increased and became worse + than ever. Madigan, who was in charge of the whale-boat, kept it moored in + the boat-harbour under shelter of the ice-foot. An excursion was made to + the fish traps, buoyed half a mile off shore, on February 8, and it was + found that one had been carried away in the hurricane. The other was + brought in very much battered. That night it was decided at the first + opportunity to haul up the boat and house it for the winter. Alas! the + wind came down again too quickly, increasing in force, with dense drift. + It was still in full career on the 12th, when Madigan came in with the + news that the boat had disappeared. It was no fault of the + rope-attachments for they were securely made and so we were left to + conclude that a great mass of ice had broken away from the overhanging + shelf and carried everything before it. + </p> + <p> + The regularity of the high-velocity winds was already recognized as one of + the most remarkable features of Adelie Land. By itself such wind would + have been bad enough, but, accompanied by dense volumes of drifting snow, + it effectually put a stop to most outdoor occupations. + </p> + <p> + The roof and walls of the veranda being covered with a single layer of + tongued and grooved boards, the snow drove through every chink. The cases + outside were a partial protection, but the cracks were innumerable, and in + the course of twenty-four hours the snow inside had collected in deep + drifts. This required to be shovelled out each day or the veranda would + have been entirely blocked. + </p> + <p> + Much time was spent endeavouring to make it drift-tight; but as the + materials at our disposal were very limited, the result was never + absolutely satisfactory. The small veranda serving as an entrance-porch + was deluged with snow which drove in past the canvas doorway. The only way + to get over this trouble was to shovel out the accumulations every + morning. On one occasion, when Close was nightwatchman, the drift poured + through in such volume that each time he wished to go outside it took him + half an hour to dig his way out. On account of this periodic influx, the + vestibule doorway to the workroom was moved to the other end of the wall, + where the invading snow had farther to travel and was consequently less + obstructive. + </p> + <p> + One advantage of the deposit of snow around the Hut was that all draughts + were sealed off. Before this happened it was found very difficult to keep + the inside temperature up to 40° F. A temperature taken within the Hut + varied according to the specific position in reference to the walls and + stove. That shown by the thermometer attached to the standard barometer, + which was suspended near the centre of the room, was taken as the "hut + temperature". Near the floor and walls it was lower, and higher, of + course, near the stove. On one occasion, in the early days, I remember the + "hut temperature" being 19° F., notwithstanding the heat from the large + range. Under these conditions the writing-ink and various solutions all + over the place froze, and, when the night-watchman woke up the shivering + community he had many clamorous demands to satisfy. The photographer + produced an interesting product from the dark room—a transparent + cast of a developing-dish in which a photographic plate left overnight to + wash was firmly set. + </p> + <p> + We arranged to maintain an inside temperature of 40 degrees F.; when it + rose to 50 degrees F. means were taken to reduce it. The cooking-range, a + large one designed to burn anthracite coal, was the general warming + apparatus. To raise the temperature quickly, blocks of seal blubber, of + which there was always a supply at hand, were used. The coal consumption + averaged one hundred pounds a day, approximately, this being reduced at a + later date to seventy-five pounds by employing a special damper for the + chimney. The damper designed for ordinary climates allowed too much + draught to be sucked through during the high winds which prevailed + continually. + </p> + <p> + The chimney was fitted with a cowl which had to be specially secured to + keep it in place. During heavy drifts the cowl became choked with snow and + ice, and the Hut would rapidly fill with smoke until some one, hurriedly + donning burberrys, rushed out with an ice-axe to chip an outlet for the + draught. The chimney was very short and securely stayed, projecting + through the lee side of the roof, where the pressure of the wind was least + felt. + </p> + <p> + The first good display of aurora polaris was witnessed during the evening + of March 12, though no doubt there had been other exhibitions obscured by + the drift. As the days went by and the equinox drew near, auroral + phenomena were with few exceptions visible on clear evenings. In the + majority of cases they showed up low in the northern sky. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of a torment of wind, March 15 came as a beautiful, sunny, + almost calm day. I remarked in my diary that it was "typical Antarctic + weather," thinking of those halcyon days which belong to the climate of + the southern shores of the Ross Sea. In Adelie Land, we were destined to + find, it was hard to number more than a dozen or two in the year. + </p> + <p> + A fine day! the psychological effect was remarkable; pessimism vanished, + and we argued that with the passing of the equinox there would be a marked + change for the better. Not a moment was lost: some were employed in making + anchorages for the wireless masts; others commenced to construct a Hangar + to house the air-tractor sledge. + </p> + <p> + In building the Hangar, the western wall of the Hut was used for one side; + the low southern end and the western wall were constructed of full and + empty cases, the lee side was closed with a tarpaulin and blocks of snow + and over all was nailed a roof of thick timber—part of the + air-tractor's case. To stiffen the whole structure, a small amount of + framework, in the form of heavy uprights, was set in the ground. The + dimensions inside were thirty-four feet by eleven feet; the height, eleven + feet at the northern and six feet at the southern end. As a break-wind a + crescent-shaped wall of benzine cases was built several yards to the + south. As in the case of the veranda, it was very difficult to make the + Hangar impervious to drift; a certain quantity of snow always made its way + in, and was duly shovelled out. + </p> + <p> + Seals had suddenly become very scarce, no doubt disgusted with the + continuous winds. Every one that came ashore was shot for food. + Unfortunately, the amount of meat necessary for the dogs throughout the + winter was so great that dog-biscuits had to be used to eke it out. + </p> + <p> + Only a few penguins remained by the middle of March. They were all young + ones, waiting for the completion of their second moult before taking to + the sea. The old feathers hung in untidy tufts, and the birds were often + in a wretched plight owing to the wind and drift-snow. Many were added to + the bleaching carcases which fill the crevices or lie in heaps on ancient + rookeries among the rocky ridges. None were free from the encumbrance of + hard cakes of snow which often covered their eyes or dangled in pendent + icicles from their bodies. The result was very ludicrous. + </p> + <p> + Hurley obtained some excellent photographs of the seals and penguins, as + of all other subjects. So good were they that most of us withdrew from + competition. His enthusiasm and resourcefulness knew no bounds. Occasional + days, during which cameras that had been maltreated by the wind were + patched up, were now looked upon as inevitable. One day, when Webb and + Hurley were both holding on to the cinematograph camera, they were blown + away, with sundry damages all around. It was later in the year when Hurley + with his whole-plate camera broke through the sea-ice—a sad affair + for the camera. + </p> + <p> + The good conditions on the 15th lasted only a few hours, and back came the + enemy as bad as ever. On the 18th the wind was only thirty miles per hour, + giving us an opportunity of continuing the buildings outside. It was only + by making the most of every odd hour when the weather was tolerable that + our outdoor enterprises made any headway. Sometimes when it was too windy + for building we were able to improve our knowledge of the neighbourhood. + </p> + <p> + A glance at Stillwell's map is instruct*e as to the extent and character + of the rocky area. It is devoid of any forms of vegetation sufficiently + prominent to meet the casual eye. Soil is lacking, for all light materials + and even gravel are carried away by the winds. The bare rock rises up into + miniature ridges, separated by valleys largely occupied by ice-slabs and + lakelets. Snow fills all the crevices and tails away in sloping ramps on + the lee side of every obstacle. In midsummer a good deal thaws, and, + re-freezing, is converted into ice. The highest point of the rock is one + hundred and forty feet. The seaward margin is deeply indented, and the + islets off shore tell of a continuation of the rugged, rocky surface below + the sea. On the northern faces of the ridges, fronting the ice-foot, + large, yellowish patches mark the sites of penguin rookeries. These are + formed by a superficial deposit of guano which never becomes thick, for it + blows away as fast as it accumulates. Standing on the shore, one can see + kelp growing amongst the rocks even in the shallowest spots, below + low-water level. + </p> + <p> + To the south, the rocks are overridden by the inland ice which bears down + upon and overwhelms them. The ice-sheet shows a definite basal moraine, + which means that the lowest stratum, about forty feet in thickness, is + charged with stones and earthy matter. Above this stratum the ice is free + from foreign matter and rises steeply to several hundred feet, after which + the ascending gradient is reduced. + </p> + <p> + The continental glacier moves down to the sea, regularly but slowly; the + rate of movement of some portions of the adjacent coastal ice cliffs was + found to be one hundred feet per annum. The rocky promontory at Winter + Quarters, acting as an obstacle, reduces the motion of the ice to an + annual rate measured in inches only. Perhaps the conditions now prevailing + are those of a comparative "drought," for there is clear evidence that our + small promontory was at one time completely enveloped. In a broad way this + is illustrated by the topography, but the final proof came when Stillwell + and others discovered rock-faces polished and grooved by the ice. + </p> + <p> + Whatever "ice-floods" there may have been in the past, the position of the + margin of the glacier must have remained for a long period in its present + situation. The evidence for this is found in the presence of a continuous, + terminal moraine, at or just in advance of the present ice-front. This + moraine, an accumulation of stones of all kinds brought to their present + resting-place by the ice-sheet, was in itself a veritable museum. Rocks, + showing every variety in colour and form, were assembled, transported from + far and wide over the great expanse of the continent. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + A section of the coastal slope of the Continental Ice Sheet inland from + Winter Quarters, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + Stillwell found these moraines a "happy hunting-ground" for the geologist. + His plane-table survey and rock collections are practical evidence of work + carried out in weather which made it seldom short of an ordeal. + </p> + <p> + The story of the buried land to the south is in large measure revealed in + the samples brought by the ice and so conveniently dumped. Let us swiftly + review the operations leading to the deposition of this natural museum. + </p> + <p> + As the ice of the hinterland moves forward, it plucks fragments from the + rocky floor. Secure in its grip, these are used as graving-tools to erode + its bed. Throwing its whole weight upon them it grinds and scratches, + pulverizes and grooves. The rocky basement is gradually reduced in level, + especially the softer regions. The tools are faceted, polished and + furrowed, for ever moving onwards. Finally, the rock-powder or + "rock-flour," as it is termed, and the boulders, thenceforth known as + "erratics," arrive at the terminal ice-face. Here, the melting due to the + sun's heat keeps pace with the "on-thrust" and some of the erratics may + remain stationary, or else, floating in the sea, a berg laden with + boulders breaks off and deposits its load in the depths of the ocean. Each + summer the ice-face above the rocks at Winter Quarters thawed back a short + distance and the water ran away in rivulets, milky-white on account of the + "rock-flour" in suspension. The pebbles and boulders too heavy to be + washed away remained behind to form the moraine. + </p> + <p> + The "erratics" comprised a great variety of metamorphic and igneous rocks, + and, on a more limited scale, sedimentary types. Amongst the latter were + sandstones, slates, shales and limestones. + </p> + <p> + Apart from the moraines, the rock exposed in situ was mainly a uniform + type of gneiss, crumpled and folded, showing all the signs of great + antiquity—pre-Cambrian, in the geological phrase. Relieving the grey + sheen of the gneiss were dark bands of schist which tracked about in an + irregular manner. Sporadic quartz veins here and there showed a light + tint. They were specially interesting, for they carried some less common + minerals such as beryl, tourmaline, garnet, coarse mica and ores of iron, + copper and molybdenum. The ores were present in small quantities, but gave + promise of larger bodies in the vicinity and indicated the probability of + mineral wealth beneath the continental ice-cap. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII THE BLIZZARD + </h2> + <p> + The equinox arrived, and the only indication of settled weather was a more + marked regularity in the winds. Nothing like it had been reported from any + part of the world. Any trace of elation we may have felt at this + meteorological discovery could not compensate for the ever-present + discomforts of life. Day after day the wind fluctuated between a gale and + a hurricane. Overcast skies of heavy nimbus cloud were the rule and the + air was continually charged with drifting snow. + </p> + <p> + Lulls of a singular nature occasionally relieved the monotony. During + these visitations the sequence of events could almost be predicted; + indeed, they would often occur at the same time on several succeeding + days. + </p> + <p> + On March 19 the first well-marked lull intervened at the height of a gale. + On that day the wind, which had been blowing with great force during the + morning, commenced to subside rapidly just after noon. Towards evening, + the air about the Hut was quite still except for gusts from the north and + rather frequent "whirlies." + </p> + <p> + This was the name adopted for whirlwinds of a few yards to a hundred yards + or more in diameter which came to be regarded as peculiar to the country. + Similar disturbances have been observed in every part of the world, but + seldom possessed of the same violence and regularity as is the case in + Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + The whirlies tracked about in a most irregular manner and woe betide any + light object which came in their path. The velocity of the wind in the + rotating column being very great, a corresponding lifting power was + imparted to it. As an illustration of this force, it may be mentioned that + the lid of the air-tractor case had been left lying on the snow near the + Hut. It weighed more than three hundredweights, yet it was whisked into + the air one morning and dropped fifty yards away in a north-easterly + direction. An hour afterwards it was picked up again and returned near its + original position, this time striking the rocks with such force that part + of it was shivered to pieces. Webb and Stillwell watched the last + proceeding at a respectful distance. + </p> + <p> + Again, the radius of activity of these whirlies was strictly limited; + objects directly in their path only being disturbed. For instance, Laseron + one day was skinning at one end of a seal and remained in perfect calm, + while McLean, at the other extremity, was on the edge of a furious vortex. + </p> + <p> + Travelling over the sea the whirlies displayed fresh capabilities. Columns + of brash-ice, frozen spray and water-vapour were frequently seen lifted to + heights of from two hundred to four hundred feet, simulating water spouts. + </p> + <p> + Reverting to the afternoon of March 19. Beyond the strange stillness of + the immediate vicinity, broken occasionally by the tumult of a passing, + wandering whirly, an incessant, seething roar could be heard. One could + not be certain from whence it came, but it seemed to proceed either from + the south or overhead. Away on the icy promontories to the east and west, + where the slopes were visible, mounting to an altitude of several thousand + feet, clouds of drift-snow blotted out the details of the surface above a + level of about six hundred feet. It certainly appeared as if the gale, for + some reason, had lifted and was still raging overhead. At 7.30 P.M. the + sound we had heard, like the distant lashing of ocean waves, became + louder. Soon gusts swept the tops of the rocky ridges, gradually + descending to throw up the snow at a lower level. Then a volley raked the + Hut, and within a few minutes we were once more enveloped in a sea of + drifting snow, and the wind blew stronger than ever. + </p> + <p> + The duration of the lulls was ordinarily from a few minutes to several + hours; that of March 19 was longer than usual. In the course of time, + after repeated observations, much light was thrown on this phenomenon. On + one occasion, a party ascending the ice slopes to the south met the wind + blowing at an elevation of four hundred feet. At the same time snow could + be seen pouring over the "Barrier" to the west of the Winter Quarters, and + across a foaming turmoil of water. This was evidently the main cause of + the seething roar, but it was mingled with an undernote of deeper tone + from the upland plateau—like the wind in a million tree-tops. + </p> + <p> + In the early spring, while we were transporting provisions to the south, + frequent journeys were made to higher elevations. It was then established + that even when whole days of calm prevailed at the Hut, the wind almost + without exception blew above a level of one thousand feet. On such + occasions it appeared that the gale was impelled to blow straight out from + the plateau slopes over a lower stratum of dead-air. An explanation was + thereby afforded of the movement of condensation clouds which appeared in + the zenith at these times. A formation of delicate, gauzy clouds developed + at a low altitude, apparently in still air, but doubtless at the base of a + hurricane stratum. Whirling round rapidly in eddying flocculi, they + quickly tailed away to the north, evaporating and disappearing. + </p> + <p> + The auditory sense was strangely affected by these lulls. The contrast was + so severe when the racking gusts of an abating wind suddenly gave way to + intense, eerie silence, that the habitual droning of many weeks would + still reverberate in the ears. At night one would involuntarily wake up if + the wind died away, and be loth to sleep "for the hunger of a sound." In + the open air the stillness conveyed to the brain an impression of + audibility, interpreted as a vibratory murmur. + </p> + <p> + During one hour on March 22 it blew eighty-six miles. On the morning of + that day there was not much snow in the air and the raging sea was a + fearful sight. Even the nearest of the islands, only half a mile off the + land, was partially hidden in the clouds of spray. What an impossible + coast this would be for the wintering of a ship! + </p> + <p> + Everybody knows that the pressure exerted by a wind against an object in + its path mounts up in much greater proportion than the velocity of the + wind. Thus may be realized the stupendous force of the winds of Adelie + Land in comparison with those of half the velocity which fall within one's + ordinary experience. As this subject was ever before us, the following + figures quoted from a work of reference will be instructive. The + classification of winds, here stated, is that known as the "Beaufort + scale." The corresponding velocities in each case are those measured by + the "Robinson patent" anemometer; our instrument being of a similar + pattern + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ___________________________________________________________________ + Beaufort scale |Velocities|Pressures | Apparent effect | + | in miles | in lbs. | | + | per hour | square | | + | foot | | + | | area | | + __________________|__________| _________|_________________________| + 0|Calm | 2 | 0.02 |May cause smoke to | + | | | | move form vertical | + 1|Light air | 4 | 0.06 |Moves the leaves of trees| + 2|Light breeze | 7 | 0.19 |Moves small branches of | + 3|Gentle breeze | 10 | 0.37 | trees and blows up dust | + 4|Moderate breeze| 14 | 0.67 | | + 5|Fresh breeze | 19 | 1.16 |Good sailing breeze and | + 6|Strong breeze | 25 | 1.90 | makes white caps | + 7|Moderate gale | 31 | 2.81 |Sways trees and breaks | + 8|Fresh gale | 37 | 3.87 | small branches | + 9|Strong gale | 44 | 5.27 |Dangerous for sailing | + 10|Whole gale | 53 | 7.40 | vessels | + 11|Storm | 64 | 10.40 |Prostrates exposed trees | + 12|Hurricane | 77 | 14.40 | and frail houses | + ___________________________________________________________________ +</pre> + <p> + Beyond the limits of this scale, the pressures exerted rise very rapidly. + A wind recorded as blowing at the rate of a hundred miles per hour exerts + a pressure of about twenty-three pounds per square foot of surface exposed + to it. Wind above eighty miles per hour is stated to "prostrate + everything." + </p> + <p> + The mileages registered by our anemometer were the mean for a whole hour, + neglecting individual gusts, whose velocity much exceeded the average and + which were always the potent factors in destructive work. + </p> + <p> + Obviously the greatest care had to be taken to secure everything. Still, + articles of value were occasionally missed. They were usually recovered, + caught in crevices of rock or amongst the broken ice. Northward from the + Hut there was a trail of miscellaneous objects scattered among the + hummocks and pressure-ridges out towards Penguin Hill on the eastern side + of the boat harbour: tins of all kinds and sizes, timber in small scraps, + cases and boards, paper, ashes, dirt, worn-out finnesko, ragged mitts and + all the other details of a rubbish heap. One of the losses was a heavy + case which formed the packing of part of the magnetometer. Weighted-down + by stones this had stood for a long time in what was regarded as a safe + place. One morning it was discovered to be missing. It was surmised that a + hurricane had started it on an ocean voyage during the previous day. Boxes + in which Whetter used to carry ice for domestic requirements were as a + rule short-lived. His problem was to fill the boxes without losing hold of + them, and the wind often gained the ascendancy before a sufficient ballast + had been added. We sometimes wondered whether any of the flotsam thus cast + upon the waters ever reached the civilized world. + </p> + <p> + Whatever has been said relative to the wind-pressure exerted on inanimate + objects, the same applied, with even more point, to our persons; so that + progression in a hurricane became a fine art. The first difficulty to be + encountered was a smooth, slippery surface offering no grip for the feet. + Stepping out of the shelter of the Hut, one was apt to be immediately + hurled at full length down wind. No amount of exertion was of any avail + unless a firm foothold had been secured. The strongest man, stepping on to + ice or hard snow in plain leather or fur boots, would start sliding away + with gradually increasing velocity; in the space of a few seconds, or + earlier, exchanging the vertical for the horizontal position. He would + then either stop suddenly against a jutting point of ice, or glide along + for twenty or thirty yards till he reached a patch of rocks or some rough + sastrugi. + </p> + <p> + Of course we soon learned never to go about without crampons on the feet. + Many experiments in the manufacture of crampons were tried with the + limited materials at our disposal. Those designed for normal Antarctic + conditions had been found unserviceable. A few detachable pairs made of + wrought iron with spikes about one and a half inches in length, purchased + in Switzerland, gave a secure foothold. Some of the men covered the soles + of their boots with long, bristling spikes and these served their purpose + well. Ice-nails, screwed into the soles without being riveted on plates, + were liable to tear out when put to a severe test, besides being too + short. Spikes of less than an inch in length were inadequate in + hurricanes. Nothing devised by us gave the grip of the Swiss crampons, + but, to affix them, one had to wear leather boots, which, though padded to + increase their warmth, had to be tightly bound by lashings compressing the + feet and increasing the liability to frost-bite. + </p> + <p> + Shod with good spikes, in a steady wind, one had only to push hard to keep + a sure footing. It would not be true to say "to keep erect," for + equilibrium was maintained by leaning against the wind. In course of time, + those whose duties habitually took them out of doors became thorough + masters of the art of walking in hurricanes—an accomplishment + comparable to skating or skiing. Ensconced in the lee of a substantial + break-wind, one could leisurely observe the unnatural appearance of others + walking about, apparently in imminent peril of falling on their faces. + </p> + <p> + Experiments were tried in the steady winds; firmly planting the feet on + the ground, keeping the body rigid and leaning over on the invisible + support. This "lying on the wind," at equilibrium, was a unique + experience. As a rule the velocity remained uniform; when it fluctuated in + a series of gusts, all our experience was likely to fail, for no sooner + had the correct angle for the maximum velocity been assumed than a lull + intervened—with the obvious result. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + A copy of the wind-velocity (anenometer) and the wind direction + (anemograph) for a period of twenty-four hours, Adelie Land + </p> + <p> + This particular record illustrates a day of constant high velocity wind. + In the case of the upper chart each rise of the pen from the bottom to the + top of the paper indicates that another 100 miles of wind has passed the + instrument. The regularity of these curves shows the steadiness of the + wind. It will be observed that the average velocity for twenty-four hours + was 90.1 miles, and the maximum of the average hourly velocities + throughout that period was ninety-seven miles. The lower chart, the record + of the direction from which the wind blew, is marked only by a single + broad bar in the position of South-by-East, the wind not having veered in + the slightest degree. + </p> + <p> + Before the art of "hurricane-walking" was learnt, and in the primitive + days of ice-nails and finnesko, progression in high winds degenerated into + crawling on hands and knees. Many of the more conservative persisted in + this method, and, as a compensation, became the first exponents of the + popular art of "board-sliding." A small piece of board, a wide ice flat + and a hurricane were the three essentials for this new sport. + </p> + <p> + Wind alone would not have been so bad; drift snow accompanied it in + overwhelming amount. In the autumn overcast weather with heavy falls of + snow prevailed, with the result that the air for several months was seldom + free from drift. Indeed, during that time, there were not many days when + objects a hundred yards away could be seen distinctly. Whatever else + happened, the wind never abated, and so, even when the snow had ceased + falling and the sky was clear, the drift continued until all the loose + accumulations on the hinterland, for hundreds of miles back, had been + swept out to sea. Day after day deluges of drift streamed past the Hut, at + times so dense as to obscure objects three feet away, until it seemed as + if the atmosphere were almost solid snow. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + A comparison of wind-velocities and temperatures prevailing at Cape Royds, + Mcmurdo Sound, and at winter quarters, Adelie Land, during the months of + May and June + </p> + <p> + At the time of plotting only the above two months were available, but they + are enough to illustrate the unusually severe winter conditions of Adelie + Land. The data for Cape Royds is that supplied by the Shackleton + Expedition. The solid black line refers to Adelie Land, the broken line to + Cape Royds. It will be noted that whereas the average temperature + conditions are closely similar at both stations, only on three days during + the period did the average wind velocity at Cape Royds reach that of the + lowest daily value of Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + Picture drift so dense that daylight comes through dully, though, maybe, + the sun shines in a cloudless sky; the drift is hurled, screaming through + space at a hundred miles an hour, and the temperature is below zero, + Fahrenheit.** You have then the bare, rough facts concerning the worst + blizzards of Adelie Land. The actual experience of them is another thing. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Temperatures as low as -28 degrees F. +(60 degrees below freezing-point) were experienced in hurricane winds, +which blew at a velocity occasionally exceeding one hundred miles per +hour. Still air and low temperatures, or high winds and moderate +temperatures, are well enough; but the combination of high winds and low +temperatures is difficult to bear. +</pre> + <p> + Shroud the infuriated elements in the darkness of a polar night, and the + blizzard is presented in a severer aspect. A plunge into the writhing + storm-whirl stamps upon the senses an indelible and awful impression + seldom equalled in the whole gamut of natural experience. The world a + void, grisly, fierce and appalling. We stumble and struggle through the + Stygian gloom; the merciless blast—an incubus of vengeance—stabs, + buffets and freezes; the stinging drift blinds and chokes. In a ruthless + grip we realize that we are + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + poor windlestraws + On the great, sullen, roaring pool of Time. +</pre> + <p> + It may well be imagined that none of us went out on these occasions for + the pleasure of it. The scientific work required all too frequent journeys + to the instruments at a distance from the Hut, and, in addition, supplies + of ice and stores had to be brought in, while the dogs needed constant + attention. + </p> + <p> + Every morning, Madigan visited all the meteorological instruments and + changed the daily charts; at times having to feel his way from one place + to the other. Attending to the exposed instruments in a high wind with low + temperature was bad enough, but with suffocating drift difficulties were + increased tenfold. + </p> + <p> + Around the Hut there was a small fraternity who chose the outside veranda + as a rendezvous. Here the latest gossip was exchanged, and the weather + invariably discussed in forcible terms. There was Whetter, who replenished + the water-supply from the unfailing fountain-head of the glacier. For + cooking, washing clothes and for photographic and other purposes, eighteen + men consumed a good deal of water, and, to keep up with the demand, + Whetter piled up many hardly-won boxes of ice in the veranda. Close + unearthed coal briquettes from the heap outside, shovelled tons of snow + from the veranda and made himself useful and amiable to every one. Murphy, + our stand-by in small talk, travel, history, literature and what not, was + the versatile storeman. The store in the veranda was continually invaded + by similar snow to that which covered the provision boxes outside. To keep + the veranda cleared, renew the supplies and satisfy the demands of the + kitchen required no other than Murphy. Ninnis and Mertz completed the + "Veranda Club," to which honorary members from within the Hut were + constantly being added. + </p> + <p> + The meteorological instruments, carefully nursed and housed though they + were, were bound to suffer in such a climate. Correll, who was well fitted + out with a lathe and all the requirements for instrument-making, attended + to repairs, doing splendid service. The anemometer gave the greatest + trouble, and, before Correll had finished with it, most of the working + parts had been replaced in stronger metal. + </p> + <p> + When the recording sheets of the instruments had been successfully + changed, the meteorologist packed them in a leather bag, strapped on his + shoulders, so that they would not be lost on the way to the Hut. As soon + as he arrived indoors the bag was opened and emptied; the papers being + picked out from a small heap of snow. + </p> + <p> + It was a fortunate thing that no one was lost through failing to discover + the Hut during the denser drifts. Hodgeman on one occasion caused every + one a good deal of anxiety. Among other things, he regularly assisted + Madigan by relieving him of outdoor duties on the day after his + nightwatch, when the chief meteorologist was due for a "watch below." It + was in the early autumn—few of us, then, were adepts at finding our + way by instinct—that Hodgeman and Madigan set out, one morning, for + the anemometer. Leaving the door of the Hut, they lost sight of each other + at once, but anticipated meeting at the instrument. Madigan reached his + destination, changed the records, waited for a while and then returned, + expecting to see his companion at the Hut. He did not appear, so, after a + reasonable interval, search parties set off in different directions. + </p> + <p> + The wind was blowing at eighty miles per hour, making it tedious work + groping about and hallooing in the drift. The sea was close at hand and we + realized that, as the wind was directly off shore, a man without crampons + was in a dangerous situation. Two men, therefore, roped together and + carefully searched round the head of the boat harbour; one anchoring + himself with an ice-axe, whilst the other, at the end of the rope, worked + along the edge of the sea. Meanwhile Hodgeman returned to the Hut, + unaided, having spent a very unpleasant two hours struggling from one + landmark to another, his outer garments filled with snow. + </p> + <p> + The fact that the wind came steadily from the same direction made it + possible to steer, otherwise outdoor operations would not have been + conducted so successfully. For instance, Webb, who visited the + Magnetograph House, a quarter of a mile distant, at least once a day, made + his way between various "beacons" by preserving a definite bearing on the + wind. His journeys were rendered all the more difficult because they were + frequently undertaken at night. + </p> + <p> + In struggling along through very dense drifts one would be inclined to + think that the presence of the sun was a matter of small concern. As a + matter of fact there was, during the day, a good deal of reflected white + light and a dark object looms up within a yard or two. In darkness there + was nothing to recognize. So Webb would often run by dead reckoning on to + the roof of the Hut, and would then feel his way round it till he caught + the glimmer of a hurricane lantern coming through the veranda entrance. + </p> + <p> + I had always the greatest admiration for the unfailing manner in which + those responsible for the tidal, magnetic and meteorological work carried + out their duties. + </p> + <p> + As a measure of the enormous amount of drift, we set about constructing a + gauge, which, it was hoped, would give us a rough estimate of the quantity + passing the Hut in a year. Hannam, following the approved design, produced + a very satisfactory contrivance. It consisted of a large drift-tight box, + fitted on the windward side with a long metal cone, tapering to an + aperture three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The drift-laden air + entered the aperture, its speed was checked on entering the capacious body + of the gauge and consequently the snow fell to the bottom of the box and + the air passed out behind through a trap-door. The catch was taken out + periodically through a bolted lid, the snow was melted, the resulting + water measured and its weight calculated. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + The drift gauge + </p> + <p> + In thick drifts, one's face inside the funnel of the burberry helmet + became rapidly packed with snow, which, by the warmth of the skin and + breath, was changed into a mask of ice. This adhered firmly to the rim of + the helmet and to the beard and face. The mask became so complete that one + had to clear away obstructions continually from the eyes. It was not easy + to remove the casing of ice, outside in the wind, because this could only + be done slowly, with bare fingers exposed. An experienced man, once inside + the Hut, would first see that the ice was broken along the rim of the + helmet; otherwise, when it came to be hastily dragged off, the hairs of + the beard would follow as well. As soon as the helmet was off the head, + the icicles hanging on the beard and glazing the eyelashes were gradually + thawed by the fingers and removed. The above treatment was learned by + experience. + </p> + <p> + The abrasion-effects produced by the impact of the snow particles were + astonishing. Pillars of ice were cut through in a few days, rope was + frayed, wood etched and metal polished. Some rusty dog-chains were exposed + to it, and, in a few days, they had a definite sheen. A deal box, facing + the wind, lost all its painted bands and in a fortnight was handsomely + marked; the hard, knotty fibres being only slightly attacked, whilst the + softer, pithy laminae were corroded to a depth of one-eighth of an inch. + </p> + <p> + The effect of constant abrasion upon the snow's surface is to harden it, + and, finally, to carve ridges known as sastrugi. Of these much will be + said when recounting our sledging adventures, because they increase so + much the difficulties of travelling. + </p> + <p> + Even hard, blue ice may become channelled and pitted by the action of + drift. Again, both neve and ice may receive a wind-polish which makes them + very slippery. + </p> + <p> + Of the effect of wind and drift upon rock, there was ample evidence around + Winter Quarters. Regarded from the north, the aspect of the rocks was + quite different from that on the southern side. The southern, windward + faces were on the whole smooth and rounded, but there was no definite + polish, because the surface was partly attacked by the chipping and + splitting action of frost. The leeward faces were rougher and more + disintegrated. More remarkable still were the etchings of the + non-homogeneous banded rocks. The harder portions of these were raised in + relief, producing quite an artistic pattern. + </p> + <p> + In regard to the drift, a point which struck me was the enormous amount of + cold communicated to the sea by billions of tons of low-temperature snow + thrown upon its surface. The effect upon the water, already at + freezing-point, would be to congeal the surface at once. Whilst the wind + continued, however, there was no opportunity for a crust to form, the + uppermost layers being converted into a pea-soup-like film which streamed + away to the north. + </p> + <p> + A description of the drifts of Adelie Land would not be complete without + mentioning the startling electrical effects which were sometimes observed. + The first record of these was made by McLean, when on night-watch on March + 22. While taking the observations at midnight, he noticed St. Elmo's fire, + a "brush discharge" of electricity, on the points of the nephoscope. As + the weather became colder this curious phenomenon increased in intensity. + At any time in the drift, an electroscope exposed outside became rapidly + charged. A spark gap in a vacuum, connected with a free end of wire, gave + a continuous discharge. At times, when the effects were strong, the + night-watchman would find the edges and wire stays of the screen outlined + in a fashion reminiscent of a pyrotechnic display or an electric + street-advertisement. The corners of boxes and points of rock glowed with + a pale blue light. The same appeared over points on the clothing, on the + mitts and round the funnel of the helmet. No sensation was transmitted to + the body from these points of fire, at least nothing sufficiently acute to + be felt, with the drift and wind lashing on the body outside. However, the + anemograph several times discharged a continuous stream of sparks into + Madigan's fingers while he was changing the records. Once these sparks + reached half an inch in length, and, as his fingers were bared for the + work, there was no mistaking the feeling. + </p> + <p> + For regular observations on the subject, Correll fixed a pointed collector—a + miniature lightning-conductor—above the flagpole on the summit of + the roof. A wire was led through an insulator, so that the stream of + electricity could be subjected to experiment in the Hut. Here a "brush" of + blue light radiated outwards to a distance of one inch. When a conductor + was held close to it, a rattling volley of sparks immediately crossed the + interval and the air was pervaded with a strong smell of ozone. Of course + sparks were not always being emitted by the collector, and it was + important to determine the periods of activity. To ensure this, Hurley + devised an automatic arrangement, so that an electric bell was set ringing + whenever a current was passing; the night-watchman would then note the + fact in the log-book. However, the bell responded so often and so + vigorously that it was soon dismantled for the benefit of sleepers. It was + singular that the "brush discharge" was sometimes most copious when the + atmosphere was filled with very fine drift, and not necessarily during + dense drift. + </p> + <p> + After what has been said, it will be obvious that the drift-laden + hurricanes of the country were more than ordinarily formidable. They + scarcely seemed to provide a subject for poetic inspiration; still the + following effusion appeared by McLean, Editor of the 'Adelie Blizzard':— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THE BLIZZARD + + A snow-hush brooding o'er the grey rock-hills! + A wold of silence, ominous, that fills + The wide seascape of ice-roofed islands, rolls + To ether-zones that gird the frigid Poles! + + Realm of purest alabaster-white, + Wreathed in a vast infinitude of light; + The royal orb swings to thy summer gaze + A glitt'ring azure world of crystal days. + + The lorn bird-voices of an unseen land- + No hue of forest, gleam of ocean sand- + Rise in a ceaseless plaint of raucous din, + On northern tides the bergs come floating in. + + The wind-sprites murmuring in hinter-snow- + The pent heart-throbbings of the wan plateau- + Wing through the pulsing spell thrown o'er the sea, + In wild and shrieking blizzard minstrelsy. + + Swirl of the drift-cloud's shimm'ring sleet; + Race of the spray-smoke's hurtling sheet + Swelling trail of the streaming, sunbright foam, + Wafting sinuous brash to an ice-field home. + + Eddy-wraiths o'er the splintered schist- + Torrent spume down the glacier hissed! + Throbbing surge of the ebbing seaward gust, + Raping stillness vast in its madd'ning lust. + + Lotus-floe 'neath the Barrier brink, + Starting sheer—a marble blink- + Pelting shafts from the show'ring arrow-blast + Strike—ill the blackened flood seethe riven past. + + Glow of the vibrant, yellow west + Pallid fades in the dread unrest. + Low'ring shades through the fury-stricken night + Rack the screaming void in shudd'ring might. + + Requiem peace from the hinter-snows + Soft as river music flows. + Dawn in a flushing glamour tints the sea; + Serene her thrill of rhythmic ecstasy. +</pre> + <p> + Sledging was out of the question. Indeed, we recognized how fortunate we + were not to have pushed farther south in March. Had we advanced, it is + more than likely that provisions would have been exhausted before we could + have located the Hut in the sea of drift. Our hopes were now centred on + midwinter calms. + </p> + <p> + Looking through my diary, I notice that on March 24, "we experienced a + rise in spirits because of the improved weather." I find the average + velocity of the wind for that day to have been forty-five miles per hour, + corresponding to a "strong gale" on the Beaufort scale. This tells its own + story. + </p> + <p> + When the high wind blew off shore, there was no backswell, on account of + the pack-ice to the north quelling the sea. The arrival of a true ocean + swell meant that the pack had been dispersed. On March 24 such appears to + have been the case, for then, during the day, a big northerly swell set + in, dashing over the ice-foot and scattering seaweed on the rocks. + </p> + <p> + After the equinox, the temperatures remained in the vicinity of zero, + Fahrenheit. The penguins took to the sea, and, save for the glimpse of an + occasional petrel on the wing, the landscape was desolate. + </p> + <p> + It was high time that our programme of construction was completed, but, + however much we tried, it was impossible to do a great deal in winds + exceeding fifty miles an hour. By taking advantage of days freest from + drift, the exterior of the Hangar was completed by April 6. After the + air-tractor sledge had been moved inside, the snow was piled so high on + the leeward face, that the shelter became naturally blocked with a rampart + of snow which served admirably in place of the wall of tarpaulin which we + originally intended to use. + </p> + <p> + Bickerton could now proceed at leisure to make any necessary alterations. + The Hangar was also used as a store for many articles which had been + crowded into odd corners or rescued from the snow outside. To increase its + size, tunnels were afterwards driven into the bank of snow and timber was + stowed in these so as to be safe from burial and loss. + </p> + <p> + The building was finished just in the nick of time. Snow came down so + thickly that had the falls occurred a few days earlier, the cases from + which the place was constructed would have been effectually buried and the + construction made an impossibility. + </p> + <p> + But for the wind, the Hut would have been lost to sight. Still, it was + completely surrounded by massive drifts, and the snow was driven by the + wind past the canvas flap and through the entrance, until the veranda + became choked. + </p> + <p> + Close, who was night-watchman during the early morning hours of April 7, + had the greatest difficulty in getting outside to attend to his duties. To + dig his way through the entrance, reach the instruments and to return + occupied a whole hour. + </p> + <p> + We were inundated with snow; even a portion of the roof was buried. The + situation required immediate attention; so it was decided to make a tunnel + connecting the entrance veranda with the store veranda. From the + north-western end of the latter, an out-draught had established itself, + preserving a vertical funnel-like opening in the snow bank, always free + for entrance or exit. This proved a fortunate accident. + </p> + <p> + Further, a second tunnel, over twenty feet in length, was driven out from + the original entrance with a view to reaching the surface at a point + beyond the lee of the Hut. It was thought that the scouring effect of the + wind, there, would keep the opening of the tunnel free of drift. But when + completed, it filled rapidly with snow and had to be sealed. It was then + used to receive slop-water. While the fever for excavation was at its + height, Whetter drove, as an off-shoot to the first, another tunnel which + came to be used as a nursery for the pups. + </p> + <p> + At this stage, to leave the Hut, it was necessary to crawl through a low + trap-door in the wall of the inside or entrance veranda; the way then led + to the connecting tunnel and onwards to the store veranda; finally one + climbed through a manhole in the snow into the elements without. From the + store veranda there was access to the Hangar by a hinged door in the + common wall, and, as an additional convenience, a trap-door was made in + the roof of the inner veranda to be used during spells of clear weather or + in light drift. + </p> + <p> + The old landmarks became smothered in snow, making the Hut's position a + matter of greater uncertainty. A journey by night to the magnetic huts was + an outing with a spice of adventure. + </p> + <p> + Climbing out of the veranda, one was immediately swallowed in the chaos of + hurtling drift, the darkness sinister and menacing. The shrill wind fled + by— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ...the noise of a drive of the Dead, + Striving before the irresistible will + Through the strange dusk of this, the Debatable land + Between their place and ours. +</pre> + <p> + Unseen wizard hands clutched with insane fury, hacked and harried. It was + "the raw-ribbed Wild that abhors all life, the Wild that would crush and + rend." + </p> + <p> + Cowering blindly, pushing fiercely through the turmoil, one strove to keep + a course to reach the rocks in which the huts were hidden—such and + such a bearing on the wind—so far. When the rocks came in sight, the + position of the final destination was only deduced by recognising a few + surrounding objects. + </p> + <p> + On the return journey, the vicinity of the Hut would be heralded by such + accidents as tripping over the "wireless" ground wires or kicking against + a box or a heap of coal briquettes. These clues, properly followed up, + would lead to the Hut itself, or at least to its shelving roof. In the + very thick drifts it was even possible to stand on portions of the roof + without any notion of the fact. Fossicking about, one kept on the alert + for the feel of woodwork. When found and proved to be too extensive to be + a partially buried box, it might safely be concluded to be some part of + the roof, and only required to be skirted in order to reach the vertical + entrance. The lost man often discovered this pitfall by dropping suddenly + through into the veranda. + </p> + <p> + At the entrance to the tunnel, the roar of the tempest died away into a + rumble, the trap-door opened and perhaps the strains of the gramophone + would come in a kind of flippant defiance from the interior. Passing + through the vestibule and work-room one beheld a scene in utter variance + with the outer hell. Here were warm bunks, rest, food, light and + companionship—for the time being, heaven! Outside, the crude and + naked elements of a primitive and desolate world flowed in writhing + torrents. + </p> + <p> + The night-watchman's duty of taking the meteorological observations at the + screen adjacent to the Hut was a small matter compared with the foregoing. + First of all, it was necessary for him to don a complete outfit of + protective clothing. Dressing and undressing were tedious, and absorbed a + good deal of time. At the screen, he would spend a lively few minutes + wrestling in order to hold his ground, forcing the door back against the + pressure of wind, endeavouring to make the light shine on the instruments, + and, finally, clearing them of snow and reading them. For illumination a + hurricane lantern wrapped in a calico wind-shield was first used, to be + displaced later by an electrical signalling-lamp and, while the batteries + lasted, by a light permanently fixed by Hannam in the screen itself. To + assist in finding the manhole on his return, the night-watchman was in the + habit of leaving a light burning in the outer veranda. + </p> + <p> + I remember waking up early one morning to find the Hut unusually cold. On + rising, I discovered Hurley also awake, busy lighting the fire which had + died out. There was no sign of Correll, the night-watchman, and we found + that the last entry in the log-book had been made several hours + previously. Hurley dressed in full burberrys and went out to make a + search, in which he was soon successful. + </p> + <p> + It appeared that Correll, running short of coal during the early morning + hours, had gone out to procure some from the stack. While he was returning + to the entrance, the wind rolled him over a few times, causing him to lose + his bearings. It was blowing a hurricane, the temperature was -70 F., and + the drift-snow was so thick as to be wall-like in opacity. He abandoned + his load of coal, and, after searching about fruitlessly for some time in + the darkness, he decided to wait for dawn. Hurley found him about twenty + yards from the back of the Hut. + </p> + <p> + The suppression of outdoor occupations reacted in an outburst of indoor + work. The smaller room had been well fitted up as a workshop, and all + kinds of schemes were in progress for adapting our sledging-gear and + instruments to the severe conditions. Correll worked long hours to keep up + with the demands made upon him. Nobody was idle during the day, for, when + there was nothing else to be done, there always remained the manufacture + and alteration of garments and crampons. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the wind abated to a reasonable velocity, there was a rush to + the outside jobs. Lulls would come unexpectedly, activity inside ceased, + and the Hut, as seen by a spectator, resembled an ants' nest upon which a + strange foot had trodden: eighteen men swarming through the manhole in + rapid succession, hurrying hither and thither. + </p> + <p> + The neighbouring sea still remained free from an ice-crust. This, of + course, did not mean that freezing was not going on continuously. On the + contrary, the chilling was no doubt accelerated, but the bulk of the ice + was carried off to the north as fast as it was formed. Quantities, + however, remained as ground-ice, anchored to the kelp and stones on the + bottom. Gazing down through the clear waters one saw a white, mamillated + sheath covering the jungle of giant seaweed, recalling a forest after a + heavy snowfall. The ice, instead of being a dead weight bearing down the + branches, tended to float, and, when accumulated in large masses, + sometimes succeeded in rising to the surface, uprooting and lifting great + lengths of seaweed with it. One branching stem, found floating in the + harbour, measured eighteen feet in length. + </p> + <p> + Whenever a temporary calm intervened, a skin of ice quickly appeared over + the whole surface of the water. In the early stages, this formation + consisted of loose, blade-like crystals, previously floating freely below + the surface and rising by their own buoyancy. At the surface, if + undisturbed, they soon became cemented together. For example, during a + calm interval on April 6, within the interval of an hour, an even crust, + one inch thick, covered the sea. But the wind returned before the ice was + sufficiently strong to resist it, and it all broke up and drifted away to + the north, except a piece which remained wedged firmly between the sides + of the boat harbour. + </p> + <p> + In the calm weather, abundant "worms" freely swimming, jelly-fish, + pteropods and small fish were observed. Traps were lowered along the edge + of the harbour-ice and dredgings were made in every possible situation. + The bulk of the biological collecting was effected under circumstances in + which Hunter and Laseron might well have given up work in disgust. For + instance, I noted in my diary that on May 16, with an off shore wind of + forty-three miles per hour, they and several others were dredging from the + edge of the slippery bay-ice. The temperature at the time was -2 degrees + F. + </p> + <p> + During April the head of the boat harbour froze over permanently, the ice + reaching a thickness of eighteen inches in ten days. By that time it was + strong enough to be suitable for a tide-gauge. This was one of Bage's + charges, destined to take him out for many months in fair and foul + weather. + </p> + <p> + There were several occasions in April when the velocity of the wind + exceeded ninety miles an hour. On the evening of the 26th, the wind + slackened, and for part of the 27th had almost fallen to a calm. This + brought the optimists to the fore, once again, with the theory that the + worst was over. The prediction was far from being fulfilled, for, as the + days passed, the average velocity steadily rose. On May 11 the average for + the twenty-four hours was eighty miles per hour. By that time the Hut had + been further protected by a crescent of cases, erected behind the first + break-wind. In height this erection stood above the Hangar, and, when the + snow became piled in a solid ramp on the leeward side, it was more compact + than ever. Inside the Hut extra struts were introduced, stiffening the + principal rafters on the southern side. It was reassuring to know that + these precautions had been taken, for, on May 15, the wind blew at an + average velocity of ninety miles per hour throughout the whole twenty-four + hours. + </p> + <p> + Having failed to demolish us by dogged persistence, the hurricane tried + new tactics on the evening of May 24, in the form of a terrific series of + Herculean gusts. As we learned afterwards, the momentary velocity of these + doubtless approached two hundred miles per hour. At 11.30 P.M. the + situation was cheerfully discussed, though every one was tuned up to a + nervous pitch as the Hut creaked and shuddered under successive blows. It + seemed very doubtful whether the roof would resist the gusts, and the + feasibility of the meat cellar as a last haven of refuge was discussed. + After the passage of each gust, the barometer dropped, rising again + immediately afterwards. Similar pulsations of the barometer were observed + many times later in the year. The maximum sudden movement noted was + one-fifth inch. Had the interior of the Hut been more freely in + communication with the outside air, instead of resembling a hermetically + sealed box, the "kicks" would undoubtedly have been much greater. + </p> + <p> + Cyclonic gusts were repeated a few days after, when the upper tiers of + boxes composing the break-wind were thrown down and pebbles from the + moraine were hurled on the roof. The average velocity of the wind for each + of the three autumn months was as follows: March, 49 miles per hour; + April, 51.5 miles per hour, and May 60.7 miles per hour. + </p> + <p> + On May 1 the temperatures became lower, so that it was difficult to move + about in the gales without the face getting frost-bitten. Our usual remedy + when this occurred was to hold a mitt over the part affected; thus + sheltered, its circulation of blood was soon re-established, unless the + cold were very intense. In the extremities—the fingers and toes—warmth + was not so easily restored. + </p> + <p> + Returning from attending the instruments at noon on May 22, Madigan, + according to the usual habit, before taking off his wind-proof clothes, + commenced clearing away the ice adhering to his helmet and face. One white + patch refused to leave the side of his face, until some one observed that + it was a frost-bite, and acquainted him of the fact. Frost-bites that day + were excusable enough, for the wind was blowing between ninety-five and + hundred miles per hour, there was dense drifting snow and a temperature of + -28 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + We had found an accursed country. On the fringe of an unspanned continent + along whose gelid coast our comrades had made their home—we knew not + where—we dwelt where the chill breath of a vast, Polar wilderness, + quickening to the rushing might of eternal blizzards, surged to the + northern seas. Already, and for long months we were beneath + "frost-fettered Winter's frown." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII DOMESTIC LIFE + </h2> + <p> + Our hearth and home was the living Hut and its focus was the stove. + Kitchen and stove were indissolubly linked, and beyond their pale was a + wilderness of hanging clothes, boots, finnesko, mitts and what not, + bounded by tiers of bunks and blankets, more hanging clothes and dim + photographs between the frost-rimed cracks of the wooden walls. + </p> + <p> + One might see as much in the first flicker of the acetylene through a maze + of hurrying figures, but as his eyes grew accustomed to the light, the + plot would thicken: books orderly and disorderly, on bracketed shelves, + cameras great and small in motley confusion, guns and a gramophone-horn, + serpentine yards of gas-tubing, sewing machines, a microscope, rows of + pint-mugs, until—thud! he has obstructed a wild-eyed messman + staggering into the kitchen with a box of ice. + </p> + <p> + The wilderness was always inhabited, so much so that it often became a + bear-garden in which raucous good humour prevailed over everything. + </p> + <p> + Noise was a necessary evil, and it commenced at 7.30 A.M., with the + subdued melodies of the gramophone, mingled with the stirring of the + porridge-pot and the clang of plates deposited none too gently on the + table. At 7.50 A.M. came the stentorian: "Rise and shine!" of the + night-watchman, and a curious assortment of cat-calls, beating on pots and + pans and fragmentary chaff. At the background, so to speak, of all these + sounds was the swishing rush of the wind and the creaking strain of the + roof, but these had become neglected. In fact, if there were a calm, every + one was restless and uneasy. + </p> + <p> + The seasoned sleeper who survived the ten minutes' bombardment before 8 + o'clock was an unusual person, and he was often the Astronomer Royal. + Besides his dignified name he possessed a wrist-watch, and there was never + a movement in his mountain of blankets until 7.59 A.M., unless the jocular + night-watchman chose to make a heap of them on the floor. To calls like + "Breakfast all ready! Porridge on the table getting cold!" seventeen + persons in varying stages of wakefulness responded. No one was guilty of + an elaborate toilet, water being a scarce commodity. There were adherents + of the snow-wash theory, but these belonged to an earlier and warmer epoch + of our history. + </p> + <p> + For downright, tantalizing cheerfulness there was no one to equal the + night-watchman. While others strove to collect their befuddled senses, + this individual prated of "wind eighty miles per hour with moderate drift + and brilliant St. Elmo's fire." He boasted of the number of garments he + had washed, expanded vigorously on bread making—his brown, + appetizing specimens in full public view—told of the latest escapade + among the dogs, spoke of the fitful gleams of the aurora between 1.30 and + 2 A.M., of his many adventures on the way to the meteorological screen and + so forth; until from being a mere night-watchman he had raised himself to + the status of a public hero. For a time he was most objectionable, but + under the solid influence of porridge, tinned fruit, fresh bread, butter + and tea and the soothing aroma of innumerable pipes, other public heroes + arose and ousted this upstart of the night. Meanwhile, the latter began to + show signs of abating energy after twelve hours' work. Soon some wag had + caught him having a private nap, a whispered signal was passed round and + the unfortunate hero was startled into life with a rousing "Rise and + shine!" in which all past scores were paid off. + </p> + <p> + Every one was at last awake and the day began in earnest. The first hint + of this came from the messman and cook who commenced to make a Herculean + sweep of the pint-mugs and tin plates. The former deferentially proceeded + to scrape the plates, the master-cook presiding over a tub of boiling + water in which he vigorously scoured knives, forks and spoons, + transferring them in dripping handfuls to the cleanest part of the + kitchen-table. Cooks of lyric inclination would enliven the company with + the score of the latest gramophone opera, and the messman and company + would often feel impelled to join in the choruses. + </p> + <p> + The night-watchman had sunk into log-like slumber, and the meteorologist + and his merry men were making preparations to go abroad. The merry men + included the ice-carrier, the magnetician, the two wardens of the dogs, + the snow-shoveller and coal-carrier and the storeman. The rest subdivided + themselves between the living Hut at 45 degrees F. and the outer Hut below + freezing-point, taking up their endless series of jobs. + </p> + <p> + The merry men began to make an organized raid on the kitchen. Around and + above the stove hung oddments like wolf-skin mitts, finnesko, socks, + stockings and helmets, which had passed from icy rigidity through sodden + limpness to a state of parchment dryness. The problem was to recover one's + own property and at the same time to avoid the cook scraping the porridge + saucepan and the messman scrubbing the table. + </p> + <p> + The urbane storeman saved the situation by inquiring of the cook: "What + will you have for lunch?" Then followed a heated colloquy, the former, + like a Cingalese vendor, having previously made up his mind. The argument + finally crystallized down to lambs' tongues and beetroot, through herrings + and tomato sauce, fresh herrings, kippered herrings, sardines and corn + beef. + </p> + <p> + The second question was a preliminary to more serious business; "What + would you like for dinner?" + </p> + <p> + Although much trouble might have been saved by reference to the regulation + programme, which was composed to provide variety in diet and to eliminate + any remote chance of scurvy, most cooks adopted an attitude of surly + independence, counting it no mean thing to have wheedled from the storeman + a few more ounces of "glaxo," another tin of peas or an extra ration of + penguin meat. All this chaffering took place in the open market-place, so + to speak, and there was no lack of frank criticism from bystanders, + onlookers and distant eavesdroppers. In case the cook was worsted, the + messman sturdily upheld his opinions, and in case the weight of public + opinion was too much for the storeman, he slipped on his felt mitts, + shouldered a Venesta box and made for the tunnel which led to the store. + </p> + <p> + He reaches an overhead vent admitting a cool torrent of snow, and with the + inseparable box plunges ahead into darkness. An hour later his ruddy face + reappears in the Hut, and a load of frosted tins is soon unceremoniously + dumped on to the kitchen table. The cook in a swift survey notes the + absence of penguin meat. "That'll take two hours to dig out!" is the + storeman's rejoinder, and to make good his word, proceeds to pull off + blouse and helmet. By careful inquiry in the outer Hut he finds an + ice-axe, crowbar and hurricane lantern. The next move is to the outer + veranda, where a few loose boards are soon removed, and the storeman, with + a lithe twist, is out of sight. + </p> + <p> + We have pushed the tools down and, following the storeman, painfully + squeezed into an Arcadia of starry mounds of snow and glistening plaques + of ice, through which project a few boulders and several carcases of + mutton. The storeman rummages in the snow and discloses a pile of + penguins, crusted hard together in a homogeneous lump. Dislodging a couple + of penguins appears an easy proposition, but we are soon disillusioned. + The storeman seizes the head of one bird, wrenches hard, and off it breaks + as brittle as a stalactite. The same distracting thing happens to both + legs, and the only remedy is to chip laboriously an icy channel around it. + </p> + <p> + In a crouching or lying posture, within a confined space, this means the + expenditure of much patience, not to mention the exhaustion of all + invective. A crowbar decides the question. One part of the channel is + undermined, into this the end of the crowbar is thrust and the penguin + shoots up and hits the floor of the Hut. + </p> + <p> + The storeman, plastered with snow, reappears hot and triumphant before the + cook, but this dignitary is awkwardly kneading the dough of wholemeal + scones, and the messman is feeding the fire with seal-blubber to ensure a + "quick" oven. Every one is too busy to notice the storeman, for, like the + night-watchman, his day is over and he must find another job. + </p> + <p> + Jobs in the Hut were the elixir of life, and a day's cooking was no + exception to the rule. It began at 7 A.M., and, with a brief intermission + between lunch and afternoon tea, continued strenuously till 8.30 P.M. + Cooks were broadly classified as "Crook Cooks" and "Unconventional Cooks" + by the eating public. Such flattering titles as "Assistant Grand Past + Master of the Crook Cooks' Association" or "Associate of the Society of + Muddling Messmen" were not empty inanities; they were founded on solid + fact—on actual achievement. If there were no constitutional + affiliation, strong sympathy undoubtedly existed between the "Crook Cooks' + Association" and "The Society of Muddling Messmen." Both contained members + who had committed "championships." + </p> + <p> + "Championship" was a term evolved from the local dialect, applying to a + slight mishap, careless accident or unintentional disaster in any + department of Hut life. The fall of a dozen plates from the shelf to the + floor, the fracture of a table-knife in frozen honey, the burning of the + porridge or the explosion of a tin thawing in the oven brought down on the + unfortunate cook a storm of derisive applause and shouts of "Championship! + Championship!" + </p> + <p> + Thawing-out tinned foods by the heroic aid of a red-hot stove was a common + practice. One day a tin of baked beans was shattered in the "port" oven, + and fragments of dried beans were visible on the walls and door for weeks. + Our military cook would often facetiously refer to "platoon-firing in the + starboard oven." + </p> + <p> + One junior member of the "Crook Cooks' Association" had the hardihood to + omit baking powder in a loaf of soda-bread, trusting that prolonged baking + would repair the omission. The result was a "championship" of a very + superior order. Being somewhat modest, he committed it through the + trap-door to the mercy of the wind, and for a time it was lost in the + straggling rubbish which tailed away to the north. Even the prowling dogs + in their wolfish hunger could not overcome a certain prejudice. Of course + some one found it, and the public hailed it with delight. A searching + inquiry was made, but the perpetrator was never discovered. That loaf, + however, like the proverbial bad penny, turned up for months. When the + intricate system of snow-tunnels was being perfected, it was excavated. In + the early summer, when the aeroplane was dug out of the Hangar, that loaf + appeared once more, and almost the last thing we saw when leaving the Hut, + nearly two years after, was this petrifaction on an icy pedestal near the + Boat Harbour. + </p> + <p> + No one ever forgot the roly-poly pudding made without suet; synthetic + rubber was its scientific name. And the muddling messman could never be + surpassed who lost the cutter of the sausage machine and put salt-water + ice in the melting-pots. + </p> + <p> + There appeared in the columns of 'The Adelie Blizzard' an article by the + meteorologist descriptive of an occasion when two members of the "Crook + Cooks' Association" officiated in the kitchen: + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS AND ERROR IN ERUPTION An 'Orrible Affair in One Act BY A SURVIVOR + </p> + <p> + Dramatis Personae + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS | | Crook Cooks ERROR | + </p> + <p> + Other Expedition Members + </p> + <p> + Scene: Kitchen, Winter Quarters. + </p> + <p> + Time: 5.30 P.M. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Now, Terebus, just bring me a nice clean pot, will you? + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS [from his bunk]. Go on, do something yourself! + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Do something? I've done everything that has been done this + afternoon. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Well, you ought to feel pretty fresh. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. And all the melting-pots are empty and I'm not going to fill them. + Besides, it's not in the regulations. + </p> + <p> + Voices. Who's going crook? Error! + </p> + <p> + [TEREBUS climbs from his bunk and exit for ice. ERROR attempts to + extricate a pot from the nails in the shelves. Loud alarums. + </p> + <p> + Voices. Champ-ion-ship! + </p> + <p> + [Alarums without. Loud cries of "Door!" Enter TEREBUS with box of ice; + fills all the pots on the stove. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Good heavens, man, you've filled up the tea water with ice. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS [with hoarse laugh]. Never mind, they won't want so much glaxo to + cool it. + </p> + <p> + ERROR [who has meanwhile been mixing bread]. What shall we bake the bread + in? I believe it is considered that a square tin is more suitable for + ordinary ovens, but, on the other hand, Nansen in his 'Farthest North' + used flat dishes. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Use a tin. There'll be less surface exposed to the cold oven. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. What's all this water on the floor? I thought my feet seemed cold. + Some one must have upset a bucket. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Oh, it's one of the taps turned on. Never mind, there's plenty + more ice where that came from. Get your sea-boots. + </p> + <p> + [Enter METEOROLOGICAL STAFF and others with snow-covered burberrys, mitts, + etc., crowd kitchen and hang impedimenta round the stove. Great tumult. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Here, out of the kitchen. This isn't the time to worry the cooks. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Take those burberrys away, please, old man. They're dripping into + the soup. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Give it some flavour at least. + </p> + <p> + [Great activity in the crater of ERROR while TEREBUS clears the kitchen. + ERROR continues stirring Soup and tapioca custard on the stove. Strong + smell of burning. + </p> + <p> + VOICES [in peculiarly joyful chorus]. Something burning! + </p> + <p> + ERROR [aside to TEREBUS]. It's all right. It will taste all right. Say + it's cloth on the stove. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Somebody's burberrys burning against the stove!! + </p> + <p> + [General rush to the stove. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. It's all right, I've taken them away. + </p> + <p> + [Interval, during which much sotto voce discussion is heard in the + kitchen. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. We haven't put the spinach on to thaw and it's after six o'clock. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Warm it up and put it on the table with the tin-openers. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. I'm afraid that's against the regulations. Put it in the oven and + shut the door. + </p> + <p> + [TEREBUS does so. Later, terrific explosion, followed by strong smell of + spinach. + </p> + <p> + VOICES. What's the matter? Terebus in eruption! + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS [wiping spinach off his face]. Nothing wrong. Only a tin of + spinach opened automatically. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. It's plastered all over the oven and on everything. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Don't worry, it will be served up with the baked penguin. + </p> + <p> + [Period of partial quiescence of TEREBUS and ERROR, which is regarded as + an evil omen. + </p> + <p> + ERROR [in persuasive tone]. Have you made the tea, old boy? It's nearly + half-past six. + </p> + <p> + [TEREBUS takes off the lid of the tea-boiler, peers inside, making a scoop + with his hand. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Here, don't do that. Mind your hands. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. It's all right, it's not hot. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. What shall we do, then? We'll never keep them quiet if we are late + with the tea. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Put the tea in now. It will be warmed up by the second course. + </p> + <p> + [TEREBUS puts the infusers in the pot and stirs them round. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Taste it. + </p> + <p> + [BOTH taste with a dirty spoon. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. Tastes like your soup—'orrible! + </p> + <p> + ERROR. There's nothing wrong with the soup. You attend to the tea. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. I think we'll have coffee. Pass the coffee and I'll put that in + and bring it to the boil. The coffee will kill the taste of the tea. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Hope you make it stronger than that. + </p> + <p> + [During quiescent stage while each is thinking of a retort, 6.30 P.M. + arrives, and the soup is put on the table. Interval elapses during which + the victims are expected to eat the soup. + </p> + <p> + VOICES [in loud chant from the table]. How did you do it, Error? + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS [after a suitable period]. Any one like any more soup? + </p> + <p> + A VOICE. Couldn't risk it, Governor. TEREBUS. Bowls up! Lick spoons! + </p> + <p> + [Bowls are cleared away and baked penguin is put on the table. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Cooks have got their penguin, gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + [Suspicious glances exchanged at table. Later, monotonous chant goes up, + preceded by a soft "One, two, three." "Didn't scrape the blubber off, + Error." + </p> + <p> + [Plates cleared away and scraped into dogs' bucket. ERROR takes tapioca + custard from oven in two dishes. + </p> + <p> + ERROR [aside to TEREBUS]. Take some out of this one for us and don't + forget to put that dish in front of the Doctor, because I spilled soda in + the other. + </p> + <p> + [TEREBUS takes two large helpings out and puts rest on table as directed. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS. You need not remember the cooks, gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + A VOICE. Don't want to, if I can manage it. + </p> + <p> + ERROR [aside to TEREBUS]. Put on the Algerian sweets, and then we can have + ours. + </p> + <p> + TEREBUS [taking several handfuls]. We'll put these aside for perks. + </p> + <p> + [The sweets on the table, TEREBUS and ERROR retire to kitchen to have + their dinner. + </p> + <p> + ERROR. Is this my pudding? It's only an ordinary share. + </p> + <p> + [TEREBUS is too busy to reply, and further eruption is prevented by the + temporary plugging of ERROR. + </p> + <p> + Cooking, under the inspiration of Mrs. Beeton, became a fine art: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + On bones we leave no meat on, + For we study Mrs. Beeton. +</pre> + <p> + So said the song. On birthdays and other auspicious occasions dishes + appeared which would tempt a gourmet. Puff-pastry, steam-puddings, jellies + and blancmanges, original potages and consommes, seal curried and spiced, + penguin delicately fried, vegetables reflavoured, trimmed and adorned were + received without comment as the culinary standard rose. + </p> + <p> + Birthdays were always greeted with special enthusiasm. Speeches were made, + toasts were drunk, the supple boards of the table creaked with good + things, cook and messman vied with each other in lavish hospitality, the + Hut was ornate with flags, every man was spruce in his snowiest cardigan + and neck-cloth, the gramophone sang of music-hall days, the wind roared + its appreciation through the stove-pipe, and rollicking merriment was + supreme. On such occasions the photographer and the biologist made a + genial combination. + </p> + <p> + The dark-room was the nursery of the topical song. There, by lantern or + candle-stump, wit Rabelaisian, Aristophanic or Antarctic was cradled into + rhyme. From there, behind the scenes, the comedian in full dress could + step before the footlights into salvoes of savage applause. "A Pair of + Unconventional Cooks are we, are we," and the famous refrain, "There he + is, that's him," were long unrivalled in our musical annals. + </p> + <p> + Celebrations were carried on into the night, but no one forgot the cook + and the messman. The table was cleared by many willing hands, some brought + in ice and coal or swept the floor, others scraped plates or rinsed out + mugs and bowls. Soon, everything had passed through the cauldron of water, + soap and soda to the drying-towels and on to the shelves. The main crowd + then repaired with pipes and cigars to "Hyde Park Corner," where the + storeman, our raconteur par excellence, entertained the smokers' club. A + mixed concert brought the evening to the grand finale—"Auld Lang + Syne." + </p> + <p> + After events of this character, the higher shelves of the kitchen, in the + interstices between thermographs, photographic plates ink bottles, and + Russian stout, abounded with titbits of pie crust, blancmange, jelly, + Vienna rusks, preserved figs, and other "perks." Such "perks," or + perquisites, were the property of the presiding cook or night-watchman and + rarely survived for more than a day. + </p> + <p> + The mania for celebration became so great that reference was frequently + made to the almanac. During one featureless interval, the anniversary of + the First Lighting of London by Gas was observed with extraordinary eclat. + </p> + <p> + The great medium of monetary exchange in the Hut was chocolate. A ration + of thirty squares was distributed by the storeman every Saturday night, + and for purposes of betting, games of chance, "Calcutta sweeps" on the + monthly wind-velocity and general barter, chocolate held the premier + place. + </p> + <p> + At the "sweeps," the meteorologist stood with a wooden hammer behind the + table, and the gaming public swarmed on the other side. Numbers ranging + from "low field" and forty-five to sixty-five and "high field" were sold + by auction to the highest bidder. Excitement was intense while the + cartographer in clerical glasses worked out the unknown number. + </p> + <p> + As a consequence of wild speculation, there were several cases of + bankruptcy, which was redeemed in the ordinary way by a sale of the + debtor's effects. + </p> + <p> + Two financiers, indifferent to the charms of chocolate, established a + corner or "Bank" in the commodity. "The Bank," by barter and usurious + methods, amassed a great heap of well-thumbed squares, and, when accused + of rapacity, invented a scheme for the common good known as "Huntoylette." + This was a game of chance similar to roulette, and for a while it + completely gulfed the trusting public. In the reaction which followed, + there was a rush on "The Bank," and the concern was wound up, but the + promoters escaped with a large profit in candles and chocolate. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the winter months, work went on steadily even after dinner, and + hours of leisure were easy to fill. Some wrote up their diaries, played + games, or smoked and yarned; others read, developed photos, or imitated + the weary cook and went to bed. The MacKellar Library, so called after the + donor, was a boon to all, and the literature of polar exploration was + keenly followed and discussed. Taste in literature varied, but among a + throng of eighteen, the majority of whom were given to expressing their + opinions in no uncertain terms—there were no rigid conventions in + Adelie Land—every book had a value in accordance with a common + standard. + </p> + <p> + There was not a dissenting voice to the charm of 'Lady Betty across the + Water', and the reason for this was a special one. The sudden breath of a + world of warmth and colour, richness and vivacity and astute, American + freshness amid the somewhat grim attractions of an Antarctic winter was + too much for every one. Lady Betty, in the realm of bright images, had a + host of devoted admirers. Her influence spread beyond the Hut to the + plateau itself. Three men went sledging, and to shelter themselves from + the rude wind fashioned an ice-cavern, which, on account of its magical + hues and rare lustre, could be none other than "Aladdin's Cave." Lady + Betty found her hero in a fairy grotto of the same name. + </p> + <p> + 'Lorna Doone', on the other hand, was liked by many. Still there were + those who thought that John Ridd was a fool, a slow, obtuse rustic, and so + on, while Lorna was too divine and angelic for this life. + </p> + <p> + 'The War of the Carolinas' took the Hut by storm, but it was a "nine days' + wonder" and left no permanent impression on the thinking community. + Mostly, the story was voted delightfully funny, but very foolish and + farcical after all. A few exclusive critics predicted for it a future. + </p> + <p> + Then there was 'The Trail of '98'. For power and blunt realism there was + nothing like it, but the character of the hero was torn in the shreds of + debate. There was general agreement on two points: that the portrayal of + the desolate Alaskan wild had a touch of "home," and that the heroine was + a "true sport." + </p> + <p> + All those who had ever hauled on the main braces, sung the + topsail-halliard chanty, learned the intricate Matty Walker, the + bowline-and-a-bite and a crowd of kindred knots, had a warm spot for any + yarn by Jacobs. Night after night, the storeman held the audience with the + humorous escapades of 'Ginger Dick', 'Sam' and 'Peter Russet'. + </p> + <p> + And lastly, there was a more serious, if divided interest in 'Virginibus + Puerisque', 'Marcus Aurelius', 'The Unveiling of Lhassa'—but the + list is rather interminable. + </p> + <p> + The whole world is asleep except the night-watchman, and he, having made + the bread, washed a tubful of clothes, kept the fire going, observed and + made notes on the aurora every fifteen minutes and the weather every + half-hour, and, finally, having had a bath, indulges in buttered toast and + a cup of coffee. + </p> + <p> + The Hut is dark, and a shaded burner hangs by a canvas chair in the + kitchen. The wind is booming in gusts, the dogs howl occasionally in the + veranda, but the night-watchman and his pipe are at peace with all men. He + has discarded a heavy folio for a light romance, while the hours scud by, + broken only by the observations. The romance is closed, and he steals to + his bunk with a hurricane lamp and finds a bundle of letters. He knows + them well, but he reads them—again! + </p> + <p> + Pearly light rises in the north-east through the lessening drift, and + another day has come. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX MIDWINTER AND ITS WORK; + </h2> + <p> + With the advent of the fateful Ides of March, winter ii had practically + set in, and work outside had a chequered career. When a few calm hours + intervened between two blizzards a general rush was made to continue some + long-standing job. Often all that could be done was to clear the field for + action, that is, dig away large accumulations of snow. Then the furies + would break loose again, and once more we would play the waiting game, + meanwhile concerning ourselves with more sedentary occupations. + </p> + <p> + There was a familiar cry when, for some meteorological reason, the wind + would relapse into fierce gusts and then suddenly stop, to be succeeded by + intense stillness. "Dead calm, up with the wireless masts!" Every one + hastily dashed for his burberrys, and soon a crowd of muffled figures + would emerge through the veranda exit, dragging ropes, blocks, picks, and + shovels. There was no time to be lost. + </p> + <p> + So the erection of the wireless masts began in earnest on April 4, + continued feverishly till the end of the month, suffered a long period of + partial cessation during May and June, was revived in July and August, + and, by September 1, two masts, each consisting of a lower-mast and + top-mast, had been raised and stayed, while between them stretched the + aerial. For four weeks messages were sent out, and many of them were + caught by Macquarie Island. Nothing was heard in Adelie Land, although, + between certain hours, regular watches were kept at the receiver. The + aerial was about sixty-five feet from the ground, and it was resolved to + increase its height by erecting the top-gallant masts; but before anything + considerable could be done, a terrific gust of wind on October 13 broke + three wire-stays, and down came the mast, broken and splintered by the + fall. That is a brief resume of the fortunes of the "wireless" during the + first year. + </p> + <p> + During February and March there were various other operations of more + immediate importance which prevented concentration of our workers on the + erection of the masts. There were many odd jobs to finish about the Hut, + the Magnetograph House and Absolute Hut were "under way," the air-tractor + sledge had to be efficiently housed, and all these and many other things + could be done in weather during which it was out of question to hoist a + mast into position. At first we were fastidious and waited for a calm, but + later, as we grew more impatient, a top-mast was actually hauled up in a + wind of thirty miles per hour, with gusts of higher velocity. Such work + would sometimes be interrupted by a more furious outbreak, when all ropes + would be secured and everything made as ship-shape as possible. + </p> + <p> + On March 15 the following note was made: "The wind was on the cool side + just after breakfast. A few loads of wireless equipment were sledged up to + the rocks at the back of the Hut, and by the time several masts were + carried to the same place we began to warm to the work. One of Hannam's + coils of frozen rope (one hundred and twenty fathoms) had become kinked + and tangled, so we dragged it up the ice-slope, straightened it out and + coiled it up again. Several 'dead men' to hold the stays were sunk into + ice-holes, and, during the afternoon, one mast was dragged into position + by a willing crowd. Rocks were sledged to and packed around the 'dead men' + in the holes to make them compact. Towards sundown snow clouds filled the + northern sky and a blizzard sprang up which is now doing sixty miles per + hour. We philosophically expect another week cooped up in the Hut." + </p> + <p> + It took a long time to establish the twenty good anchorages necessary for + the masts. Within a radius of eighty yards from the centre, ice-holes were + dug, cairns of heavy boulders were built and rocky prominences dynamited + off to secure an efficient holding for the stout "strops" of rope. April + 24 was a typical day: "We spent the morning fixing up 'strops' for the + wireless masts. The wind was blowing strongly in fifty- to sixty-mile + gusts with drift, but most of the fellows 'stuck at it' all day. It was + cold work on the hands and feet. Handling picks and shovels predisposes to + frost-bite. Several charges of dynamite were fired in one hole wherein a + mast will be stepped." + </p> + <p> + Each mast, of oregon timber, was in four sections. The lowest section was + ten inches square and tapered upwards to the small royal mast at a + prospective height of one hundred and twenty feet. At an early stage it + was realized that we could not expect to erect more than three sections. + Round the steel caps at each doubling a good deal of fitting had to be + done, and Bickerton, in such occupation, spent many hours aloft throughout + the year. Fumbling with bulky mitts, handling hammers and spanners, and + manipulating nuts and bolts with bare hands, while suspended in a + boatswain's chair in the wind, the man up the mast had a difficult and + miserable task. Bickerton was the hero of all such endeavours. Hannam + directed the other workers who steadied the stays, cleared or made fast + the ropes, pulled and stood by the hauling tackle and so forth. + </p> + <p> + One day the man on the top-mast dislodged a heavy engineering hammer which + he thought secure. No warning was given, as he did not notice that it had + fallen. It whizzed down and buried itself in the snow, just grazing the + heads of Close and Hodgeman. + </p> + <p> + The ropes securing the aerial and running through various blocks were in + constant danger of chafing during the frequent hurricanes, from their + proximity to the mast and stays, or from friction on the sharp edges of + the blocks. Unknown to us, this had happened to a strong, new manilla rope + by which Murphy was being hauled to the top of the lower-mast. It gave + way, and, but for another rope close by, which he seized to break his + fall, an accident might have ensued. + </p> + <p> + Frost-bites were common. There were so many occasions when one had to + stand for a long time gripping a rope, pulling or maintaining a steady + strain, that fingers would promptly become numb and feet unbearably cold. + The usual restorative was to stamp about and beat the chest with the hands—an + old sailor's trick. Attempting to climb to a block on the top-gallant mast + one day, McLean had all his fingers frost-bitten at the same time. + </p> + <p> + In May the weather was atrocious, and in June building the Astronomical + Hut and digging ice-shafts on the glacier absorbed a good many hands. In + July, despite the enthusiasm and preparation for sledging, much was done. + On August 10 the long looked-for top-mast of the southern mast became a + reality: + </p> + <p> + "We were early astir—about 7 A.M.—while the pink coloration of + dawn was stealing over the peaceful Barrier. For once, after months, it + was perfectly still. We hurried about making preparations—hauled + Bickerton up to the cross-trees and awaited the moment when we should + raise the top-mast. We pulled it up half-way and Bickerton affixed a pin + in its centre, above which two stays were to be attached. Suddenly, down + came the wind in terrific gusts and, after securing the stays, the job had + to be given up.... We were just about to have lunch when the wind ceased + as suddenly as it had begun. We all sallied out once more, and, this time, + completed the job, though for a while the top-mast was in imminent peril + of being blown away by a sharp northerly gust." + </p> + <p> + Next day the aerial was hoisted in a wind of sixty miles per hour, but the + strain was so severe on the block, upwind, that it carried away. + Fortunately the insulators of the aerial were entangled by the stays in + their fall to ground, otherwise some one may have been hurt, as there were + a dozen men almost directly below. + </p> + <p> + Six days after this accident, August 17, the top-mast halliard of the + down-wind mast frayed through, and as a stronger block was to be affixed + for the aerial, some one had to climb up to wire it in position. Bickerton + improvized a pair of climbing irons, and, after some preliminary practice, + ascended in fine style. + </p> + <p> + Finally, by September 30, the aerial was at such a height as to give hope + that long-distance messages might be despatched. There was a certain + amount of suppressed excitement on the evening of that day when the engine + started and gradually got up speed in the dynamo. The sharp note of the + spark rose in accompanying crescendo and, when it had reached its highest + pitch, Hannam struck off a message to the world at large. No response came + after several nights of signalling, and, since sledging had usurped every + other interest, the novelty soon wore off. + </p> + <p> + "Atmospherics"—discharges of atmospheric electricity—and + discharges from the drift-snow were heard in the wireless receiver. + </p> + <p> + While messages were being sent, induction effects were noted in metallic + objects around the Hut. A cook at the stove was the first to discover this + phenomenon, and then every one conceived a mania for "drawing" sparks. A + rather stimulating experience—the more so as it usually happened + unexpectedly and accidentally—was to brush one's head against one of + the numerous coils of flexible metal gas-piping festooned about the place. + Sparks immediately jumped the interval with startling effect. + </p> + <p> + October 13, the day when the mast blew down, was known in wireless circles + as Black Sunday. All had worked keenly to make the "wireless" a success, + and the final event was considered to be a public misfortune. However, the + honours were to be retrieved during the following year. + </p> + <p> + It fell to the lot of most of the Staff that they developed an interest in + terrestrial magnetism. For one thing every man had carried boulders to the + great stockade surrounding the Magnetograph House. Then, too, recorders + were regularly needed to assist the magnetician in the absolute Hut. + There, if the temperature were not too low and the observations not too + lengthy, the recorder stepped out into the blizzard with the conviction + that he had learned something of value, and, when he sat down to dinner + that night, it was with a genial sense of his own altruism. In his diary + he would write it all up for his own edification. + </p> + <p> + It would be on this wise: The Earth's magnetic force, which is the active + agent in maintaining the compass-needle in the magnetic meridian** at any + particular spot, acts, not as is popularly supposed, in a horizontal + plane, but at a certain angle of inclination with the Earth's surface. The + nearer the magnetic poles the more nearly vertical does the freely + suspended needle become. At the South Magnetic Pole it assumes a vertical + position with the south end downwards; at the North Magnetic Pole it + stands on its other end. At the intermediate positions near the equator + the whole force is exerted, swinging the needle in the horizontal plane, + and in such regions ordinary ships' compasses pivoted to move freely only + in a horizontal plane give the greatest satisfaction. On approaching the + magnetic poles, compasses become sluggish, for the horizontal deflecting + force falls off rapidly. The force, acting in a vertical direction, + tending to make the needle dip, correspondingly increases, but is of no + value for navigation purposes. However, in the scientific discussion of + terrestrial magnetism, both the horizontal and vertical components as well + as the absolute value of the total force are important, and the + determination of these "elements" is the work of the magnetician. + Affecting the average values of the "magnetic elements" at any one spot on + the Earth's surface are regular diurnal oscillations, apparent only by the + application of very delicate methods of observation: also there are sudden + large irregular movements referred to as magnetic storms; the latter are + always specially noticeable when unusually bright auroral phenomena are in + progress. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** The magnetic meridian is the straight line joining the North +and South Magnetic Poles and passing through the spot in question. +</pre> + <p> + The observations made in the "Absolute Hut", carried out at frequent + intervals and on each occasion occupying two men for several hours + together, are necessary to obtain standard values as a check upon the + graphic record of the self-recording instruments which run day and night + in the "Magnetograph House". + </p> + <p> + But this is another story. Three hours, sitting writing figures in a + temperature of -15 degrees F., is no joke. The magnetician is not so badly + off, because he is moving about, though he often has to stop and warm his + fingers, handling the cold metal. + </p> + <p> + The Magnetograph House had by far the most formidable name. The Hut, + though it symbolized our all in all, sounded very insignificant unless it + were repeated with just the right intonation. The Absolute Hut had a + superadded dignity. The Hangar, in passing, scarcely seemed to have a + right to a capital H. The Transit House, on the and other hand, was the + only dangerous rival to the first mentioned. But what's in a name? + </p> + <p> + If the Magnetograph House had been advertised, it would have been + described as "two minutes from the Hut." This can easily be understood, + for the magnetician after leaving home is speedily blown over a few + hillocks and sastrugi, and, coming to an ice-flat about one hundred and + fifty yards wide, swiftly slides over it, alighting at the snow-packed + door of his house. The outside porch is just roomy enough for a man to + slip off burberrys and crampons. The latter are full of steel spikes, and + being capable of upsetting magnetic equilibrium, are left outside. Walking + in soft finnesko, the magnetician opens an inner door, to be at once + accosted by darkness, made more intense after the white glare of the snow. + His eyes grow accustomed to the blackness, and he gropes his way to a + large box almost concealing the feeble glimmer of a lamp. The lamp is the + source of the light, projected on to small mirrors attached to the + magnetic needles of three variometers. A ray of light is reflected from + the mirrors for several feet on to a slit, past which revolves sensitized + photographic paper folded on a drum moving by clockwork. The slightest + movements of the suspended needles are greatly magnified, and, when the + paper is removed and developed in a dark-room, a series of intricate + curves denoting declination, horizontal intensity and vertical force, are + exquisitely traced. Every day the magnetician attends to the lamp and + changes papers; also at prearranged times he tests his "scale values" or + takes a "quick run." + </p> + <p> + To obtain results as free as possible from the local attraction of the + rocks in the neighbourhood, Webb resolved to take several sets of + observations on the ice-sheet. In order to make the determinations it was + necessary to excavate a cave in the glacier. This was done about + three-quarters of a mile south of the Hut in working shifts of two men. A + fine cavern was hewn out, and there full sets of magnetic observations + were taken under ideal conditions. + </p> + <p> + On sledging journeys the "dip" and declination were both ascertained at + many stations, around and up to within less than half a degree of the + South Magnetic Pole. + </p> + <p> + While the wind rushed by at a maddening pace and stars flashed like jewels + in a black sky, a glow of pale yellow light overspread the north-east + horizon—the aurora. A rim of dark, stratus cloud was often visible + below the light which brightened and diffused till it curved as a low arc + across the sky. It was eerie to watch the contour of the arc break, die + away into a delicate pallor and reillumine in a travelling riband. Soon a + long ray, as from a searchlight, flashed above one end, and then a row of + vertical streamers ran out from the arc, probing upwards into the outer + darkness. The streamers waxed and waned, died away to be replaced and then + faded into the starlight. The arc lost its radiance, divided in patchy + fragments, and all was dark once more. + </p> + <p> + This would be repeated again in a few hours and irregularly throughout the + night, but with scenic changes behind the great sombre pall of the sky. + North-west, northeast, and south-east it would elusively appear in + nebulous blotches, flitting about to end finally in long bright strands in + the zenith, crossing the path of the "milky way." + </p> + <p> + By the observer, who wrote down his exact observations in the + meteorological log, this was called a "quiet night." + </p> + <p> + At times the light was nimble, flinging itself about in rich waves, + warming to dazzling yellow-green and rose. These were the nights when + "curtains" hung festooned in the heavens, alive, rippling, dancing to the + lilt of lightning music. Up from the horizon they would mount, forming a + vortex overhead, soundless within the silence of the ether. + </p> + <p> + A "brilliant display," we would say, and the observer would be kept busy + following the track of the evanescent rays. + </p> + <p> + Powerless, one was in the spell of an all-enfolding wonder. The vast, + solitary snow-land, cold-white under the sparkling star-gems; lustrous in + the radiance of the southern lights; furrowed beneath the icy sweep of the + wind. We had come to probe its mystery, we had hoped to reduce it to terms + of science, but there was always the "indefinable" which held aloof, yet + riveted our souls. + </p> + <p> + The aurora was always with us, and almost without exception could be seen + on a dark, driftless night. The nature of the aurora polaris has not yet + been finally demonstrated, though it is generally agreed to be a discharge + of electricity occurring in the upper, more rarefied atmosphere. The + luminous phenomena are very similar to those seen when a current of + electricity is passed through a vacuum tube. + </p> + <p> + One receives a distinct impression of nearness, watching the shimmering + edges of the "curtains" in the zenith, but all measurements indicate that + they never descend nearer than a few miles above the land-surface. + </p> + <p> + Careful records were taken to establish a relation between magnetic storms + and aurorae, and a good deal of evidence was amassed to support the fact + that auroral exhibitions correspond with periods of great magnetic + disturbance. The displays in Adelie Land were found to be more active than + those which occur in higher latitudes in the Ross Sea. + </p> + <p> + An occupation which helped to introduce variety in our life was the + digging of ice-shafts. For the purpose of making observations upon its + structure and temperature various excavations were made in the sea-ice, in + the ice of the glacier, and in that of the freshwater lakes. The work was + always popular. Even a whole day's labour with a pick and shovel at the + bottom of an ice-hole never seemed laborious. It was all so novel. + </p> + <p> + A calm morning in June, the sky is clear and the north ablaze with the + colours of sunrise—or is it sunset? The air is delicious, and a cool + waft comes down the glacier. A deep ultramarine, shading up into a soft + purple hue, blends in a colour-scheme with the lilac plateau. Two men + crunch along in spiked boots over snow mounds and polished sastrugi to the + harbour-ice. The sea to the north is glazed with freezing spicules, and + over it sweep the petrels—our only living companions of the winter. + It is all an inspiration; while hewing out chunks of ice and shovelling + them away is the acute pleasure of movement, exercise. + </p> + <p> + The men measure out an area six feet by three feet, and take a preliminary + temperature of the surface-ice by inserting a thermometer in a drilled + hole. Then the ice begins to fly, and it is not long before they are down + one foot. Nevertheless it would surprise those acquainted only with fresh + water ice to find how tough, sticky and intractable is sea-ice. It is + always well to work on a definite plan, channelling in various directions, + and then removing the intervening lumps by a few rough sweeps of the pick. + At a depth of one foot, another temperature is taken, and some large + samples of the ice laid by for the examination of their crystalline + structure. This is repeated at two feet, and so on, until the whole + thickness is pierced to the sea-water beneath. At three feet brine may + begin to trickle into the hole, and this increases in amount until the + worker is in a puddle. The leakage takes place, if not along cracks, + through capillary channels, which are everywhere present in sea-ice. + </p> + <p> + It is interesting to note the temperature gradually rise during the + descent. At the surface the ice is chilled to the air-temperature, say -10 + degrees F., and it rises in a steep gradient to approximately 28 degrees + F.; close to the freezing-point of sea water. The sea-ice in the + boat-harbour varied in thickness during the winter between five and seven + feet. + </p> + <p> + In contrast with sea-ice, the ice of a glacier is a marvel of prismatic + colour and glassy brilliance. This is more noticeable near the surface + when the sun is shining. Deep down in a shaft, or in an ice-cavern, the + sapphire reflection gives to the human face quite a ghastly pallor. + </p> + <p> + During the high winds it was always easy to dispose of the fragments of + ice in the earlier stages of sinking a shaft. To be rid of them, all that + was necessary was to throw a shovelful vertically upwards towards the + lee-side of the hole, the wind then did the rest. Away the chips would + scatter, tinkling over the surface of the glacier. Of course, when two men + were at work, each took it in turns to go below, and the one above, to + keep warm, would impatiently pace up and down. Nevertheless, so cold would + he become at times that a heated colloquy would arise between them on the + subject of working overtime. When the shaft had attained depth, both were + kept busy. The man at the pit's mouth lowered a bucket on a rope to + receive the ice and, in hauling it up, handicapped with clumsy mitts, he + had to be careful not to drop it on his companion's head. + </p> + <p> + The structural composition of ice is a study in itself. To the cursory + glance a piece of glacier-ice appears homogeneous, but when dissected in + detail it is found to be formed of many crystalline, interlocking grains, + ranging in size from a fraction of an inch to several inches in diameter. + A grain-size of a half to one inch is perhaps commonest in Antarctic + glacier-ice. + </p> + <p> + The history of Antarctic glacier-ice commences with the showers of snow + that fall upon the plateau. The snow particles may be blown for hundreds + of miles before they finally come to rest and consolidate. The + consolidated snow is called neve, the grains of which are one-twenty-fifth + to one hundredth of an inch in diameter, and, en masse, present a dazzling + white appearance on account of the air spaces which occupy one-third to + one-half of the whole. In time, under the influence of a heavy load of + accumulated layers of neve, the grains run together and the air spaces are + eliminated. The final result is clear, transparent ice, of a more or less + sapphire-blue colour when seen in large blocks. It contains only + occasional air-bubbles, and the size of the grains is much increased. + </p> + <p> + Lake-ice, freezing from the surface downwards, is built up of long + parallel prisms, like the cells of a honey-comb on a large scale. In a + lakelet near the Hut this was beautifully demonstrated. In some places + cracks and fissures filled with snow-dust traversed the body of the ice, + and in other places long strings of beaded air-bubbles had become + entangled in the process of freezing. To lie down on the clear surface and + gaze "through the looking-glass" to the rocky bottom, twenty feet below, + was a glimpse into "Wonderland." + </p> + <p> + In the case of sea-ice, the simple prismatic structure is complicated + owing to the presence of saline matter dissolved in the sea water. The + saline tracts between the prisms produce a milky or opalescent appearance. + The prisms are of fresh water ice, for in freezing the brine is rejected + and forced to occupy the interstices of the prisms. Water of good drinking + quality can be obtained by allowing sea water ice to thaw partially. The + brine, of lower freezing-point, flows away, leaving only fresh water ice + behind. In this way blocks of sea-ice exposed to the sun's rays are + relieved of their salty constituents, and crumble into pellucid gravel + when disturbed. + </p> + <p> + A popular subject commanding general interest, apart from the devoted + attention of specialists, was zoological collecting. Seals and birds were + made the prey of every one, and dredging through the sea-ice in winter and + spring was always a possible diversion. + </p> + <p> + It was a splendid sight to watch the birds sailing in the high winds of + Adelie Land. In winds of fifty to seventy miles per hour, when with good + crampons one had to stagger warily along the ice-foot, the snow petrels + and Antarctic petrels were in their element. Wheeling, swinging, sinking, + planing and soaring, they were radiant with life—the wild spirits of + the tempest. Even in moderate drift, when through swirling snow the vistas + of sea whitened under the flail of the wind, one suddenly caught the + silver flash of wings and a snow petrel glided past. + </p> + <p> + But most memorable of all were certain winter mornings of unexpected calm, + when ruddy clouds tessellated the northern sky and were mirrored in the + freezing sea. Then the petrels would be en fete, flying over from the east + following the line of the Barrier, winding round the icy coves, darting + across the jutting points and ever onward in their long migration. In the + summer they flew for weeks from the west—a never-ending string of + snow, silver-grey and Antarctic petrels, and Cape pigeons. The silver-grey + petrels and Cape pigeons were only abroad during that season and were + accompanied by skua gulls, giant petrels, Wilson petrels, and penguins. + The penguins remained in Adelie Land for the longest period—almost + six months, the skua gulls and giant petrels for five months, and the rest + for a shorter period—the tolerable season of midsummer. + </p> + <p> + Birds that haunt the wide oceans all make use of the soaring principle in + flight, some much more than others. The beautiful sliding sweep of the + albatross is the most familiar example. With wings outspread, it is a + miniature aeroplane requiring no engines, for the wind itself supplies the + power. A slight movement of the tail-feathers and wing-tips controls its + balance with nice precision. Birds employing this method of flight find + their home in the zone of continuous steady winds which blow across the + broad wastes of the southern seas. + </p> + <p> + Many petrels on the wing were shot during the winter. Laseron, who + prepared the skins of our Adelie Land collection, determined, in the case + of a number of specimens, the ratio of weight to horizontal area exposed + to the wind. This subject is one which has lately exercised the curiosity + of aviators. The ratios are those evolved by nature, and, as such, should + be wellnigh perfect. Below is appended a table of the results obtained. + </p> + <p> + WEIGHT OF CERTAIN ANTARCTIC BIRDS IN RELATION TO WING AREAS + </p> + <p> + (Stated in pounds per square foot of wing surface) + </p> + <p> + Each is the mean of several determinations by Laseron + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Giant petrel........... 3.5 + Albatross ........... 2.4 + Antarctic petrel......... 2.1 + Skua gull ........... 1.6 + Snow petrel ........... 1.1 + Wilson petrel........... 0.6 + + Values from a book of reference quoted for comparison + + Bat ........... 0.1 + Sparrow ........... 0.4 + Wild goose ........... 1.7 +</pre> + <p> + During the winter, for a long period, no seals ventured ashore, though a + few were seen swimming in the bay. The force of the wind was so formidable + that even a heavy seal, exposed in the open, broadside-on, would be + literally blown into the water. This fact was actually observed out on the + harbour-ice. A Weddell seal made twelve attempts to land on a low + projecting shelf—an easy feat under ordinary circumstances. The wind + was in the region of eighty-five miles per hour, and every time the + clumsy, ponderous creature secured its first hold, back it would be + tumbled. Once it managed to raise itself on to the flat surface, and, + after a breathing spell, commenced to shuffle towards the shelter of some + pinnacles on one side of the harbour. Immediately its broad flank was + turned to the wind it was rolled over, hung for a few seconds on the + brink, and then splashed into the sea. On the other hand, during the + spring, a few more ambitious seals won their way ashore in high winds; but + they did not remain long in the piercing cold, moving uneasily from place + to place in search of protecting hummocks and finally taking to the water + in despair. Often a few hours of calm weather was the signal for half a + dozen animals to land. The wind sooner or later sprang up and drove them + back to their warmer element. + </p> + <p> + Under the generic name, seal, are included the true or hair seals and the + sea-bears or fur seals. Of these the fur seals are sub-polar in + distribution, inhabiting the cold temperate waters of both hemispheres, + but never living amongst the polar ice. The southern coast of Australia + and the sub-antarctic islands were their favourite haunts, but the + ruthless slaughter of the early days practically exterminated them. From + Macquarie Island, for example, several hundred thousand skins were taken + in a few years, and of late not a single specimen has been seen. + </p> + <p> + Closely related to the fur seals are the much larger animals popularly + known as sea-lions. These still exist in great numbers in south temperate + waters. Both are distinguished from the hair seals by one obvious + characteristic: their method of propulsion on land is by a "lolloping" + motion, in which the front and hind flippers are used alternately. The + hair seals move by a caterpillar-like shuffle, making little or no use of + their flippers; and so, the terminal parts of their flippers are not bent + outwards as they are in the fur seals and sea-lions. + </p> + <p> + Of the hair seals there are five varieties to be recognized in the far + South. The Weddell seals, with their mottled-grey coats, are the + commonest. They haunt the coasts of Antarctica and are seldom found at any + distance from them. Large specimens of this species reach nine and a half + feet in length. + </p> + <p> + The crab-eater seal, a smaller animal, lives mostly on the pack-ice. Lying + on a piece of floe in the sunshine it has a glistening, silver-grey skin—another + distinguishing mark being its small, handsome head and short, thin neck. + Small crustaceans form its principal food. + </p> + <p> + The Ross seal, another inhabitant of the pack-ice, is short and bulky, + varying from a pale yellowish-green on the under side to a dark + greenish-brown on the back. Its neck is ample and bloated, and when + distended in excitement reminds one of a pouter-pigeon. This rare seal + appears to subsist mainly on squid and jelly-fish. + </p> + <p> + The sea-leopard, the only predacious member of the seal family, has an + elongated agile body and a large head with massive jaws. In general it has + a mottled skin, darker towards the back. It lives on fish, penguins and + seals. Early in April, Hurley and McLean were the first to obtain proof + that the sea-leopard preyed on other seals. Among the broken floe-ice + close beneath the ice-cliffs to the west of Winter Quarters, the wind was + driving the dead body of a Weddell seal which swept past them, a few yards + distant, to the open water. Then it was that a sea-leopard was observed + tearing off and swallowing great pieces of flesh and blubber from the + carcase. + </p> + <p> + The last variety of hair seal, the sea elephant, varies considerably from + the preceding. Reference has already been made to the species earlier in + the narrative. The habitat of these monstrous animals ranges over the + cold, south-temperate seas; sea elephants are but occasional visitors to + the ice-bound regions. Although they have been exterminated in many other + places, one of their most populous resorts at the present day is Macquarie + Island. + </p> + <p> + In the case of all the hair seals a layer of blubber several inches in + thickness invests the body beneath the skin and acts as a conserver of + warmth. They are largely of value for the oil produced by rendering down + the blubber. The pelts are used for leather. + </p> + <p> + The operation of skinning seals for specimens, in low temperatures and in + the inevitable wind, was never unduly protracted. We were satisfied merely + to strip off the skin, leaving much blubber still adhering to it. In this + rough condition it was taken into the work-room of the Hut to be cleaned. + The blubber froze, and then had the consistency of hard soap and was + readily severed from the pelt. It was found that there exuded amongst the + frozen blubber a thin oil which remained liquid when collected and exposed + to low temperatures. This oil was used to lubricate the anemometer and + other instruments exposed outside. + </p> + <p> + The main part of the biological work lay in the marine collections. Hunter + with the small hand-dredge brought up abundant samples of life from depths + ranging to fifty fathoms. In water shallower than ten fathoms the variety + of specimens was not great, including seaweeds up to eighteen or more feet + in length, a couple of forms of starfish, various small mollusca, two or + three varieties of fish, several sea-spiders, hydroids and lace corals, + and, in great profusion, worms and small crustaceans. In deeper waters the + life became much richer, so that examples of almost every known class of + marine animals were represented. + </p> + <p> + Early in June the sea bottom in depths less than ten fathoms had become so + coated with ice that dredging in shallow water was suspended. + </p> + <p> + Floating or swimming freely were examples of pteropods, worms, + crustaceans, ostracods, and jelly-fish. These were easily taken in the + hand-net. + </p> + <p> + In those regions where ice and water are intermingled, the temperature of + the water varies very slightly in summer and winter, remaining + approximately at freezing-point. In summer the tendency to heating is + neutralized by a solution of some of the ice, and in winter the cold is + absorbed in the production of a surface layer of ice. This constancy of + the sea's temperature is favourable to organic life. On land there is a + wide range in temperature, and only the meagre mosses and lichens, and the + forms of insect life which live among them can exist, because they have + developed the capacity of suspending animation during the winter. The + fresh-water lakelets were found to be inhabited by low forms of life, + mainly microscopic. Among these were diatoms, algae, protozoa, rotifera, + and bacteria. + </p> + <p> + The last-named were investigated by McLean and were found to be manifold + in distribution. Besides those from the intestines of animals and birds, + cultures were successfully made from the following natural sources: lichen + soil, moss soil, morainic mud, guano, ice and snow. The results may open + some new problems in bacteriology. + </p> + <p> + Of recent years much attention has been given to the study of parasites—parasitology. + Parasites may be external, on the skin; internal, in the alimentary canal; + or resident, in the corpuscles of the blood. In tropical countries, where + there is great promiscuity of life, one is led to expect their almost + universal presence. But in polar regions, where infection and intimate + co-habitation for long periods are not the rule, while the climate is not + favourable to organic existence, one would be surprised to find them in + any great number. The fact remains that internal parasites were found in + the intestine of every animal and fish examined, and in all the birds + except the Wilson petrel. External parasites were present on every species + of bird and seal, though individuals were often free of them. This was so + in the case of the Adelie penguins. It is a demonstration of the + protective warmth of the feathers that Emperor penguins may harbour insect + parasites in great numbers. It is only less wonderful than the fact that + they are able to rear their young during the Antarctic winter. A large + number of blood-slides were prepared and stained for examination for + blood-parasites. + </p> + <p> + Searching for "fleas" amongst the feathers of birds and the hair of seals, + or examining the viscera for "worms" is neither of them a pleasant + occupation. To be really successful, the enthusiasm of the specialist is + necessary. Hunter allowed no opportunities to pass and secured a fine + collection of parasites. + </p> + <p> + Amongst other work, McLean carried out monthly observations on six men, + determining the colour-index and haemoglobin value of their blood over a + period of ten months. The results showed a distinct and upward rise above + the normal. + </p> + <p> + Among societies privileged to see the daily paper and to whom diversity + and change are as the breath of life, the weather is apt to be tabooed as + a subject of conversation. But even the most versatile may suddenly find + themselves stripped of ideas, ignominiously reduced to the obvious topic. + To us, instead of being a mere prelude to more serious matters, or the + last resort of a feeble intellect, it was the all-engrossing theme. The + man with the latest hare-brained theory of the causation of the wind was + accorded a full hearing. The lightning calculator who estimated the annual + tonnage of drift-snow sweeping off Adelie Land was received as a futurist + and thinker. Discussion was always free, and the subject was never + thrashed out. Evidence on the great topic accumulated day by day and month + by month; yet there was no one without an innate hope that winter would + bring calm weather or that spring-time, at least, must be propitious. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the meteorologist accepted things as he found them, supplied the + daily facts of wind-mileage and direction, amount of drift, temperature + and so forth, which were immediately seized by more vivacious minds and + made the basis of daring speculations. + </p> + <p> + The daily facts were increased by the construction of a new instrument + known as the puffometer. It was entirely a home-made contrivance, designed + to measure the speed of heavy gusts of wind. A small aluminium sphere was + arranged to blow out at the end of a light cord exerting tension on a + calibrated spring. The pull was transferred to a lever carrying a pencil, + which travelled across a disk of carbonized paper. The disk, moving by + clockwork, made a complete revolution every hour. The recording parts of + the instrument were enclosed in a snow-proof box in which there was a + small aperture on the leeward side, through which ran the cord attachment + of the sphere. This may give a rough idea of the apparatus employed to + measure the momentary velocity of the cyclonic gusts. The idea is not an + original one, having been previously applied for use on kites. + </p> + <p> + It was not always possible to use the puffometer in the strongest gusts + because these were often transient, occurring unexpectedly or during the + night; while it took a little time to get the instrument into running + order. Even in daylight, with the landscape clear of drift, it was a + time-absorbing and difficult task to secure a record. + </p> + <p> + Two men start from the Hut with iron crampons and a full complement of + clothes and mitts. Outside they find themselves in a rushing torrent of + air, pulsating with mighty gust-waves. Lowered from the estate of upright + manhood, they humbly crawl, or make a series of crouching sprints between + the gusts. Over the scattered boulders to the east of the Hut, across a + patch of polished snow they push to the first low ridge, and there they + stop for breath. Up on the side of "Annie Hill," in the local phrase, the + tide sweeps by with fiendish strength, and among the jagged rocks the man + clutching the puffometer-box has a few desperate falls. At last both + clamber slowly to an eminence where a long steel pipe has been erected. To + the top of this the puffometer is hauled by means of a pulley and line. At + the same time the aluminium sphere is released, and out it floats in the + wind tugging at the spring. + </p> + <p> + The puffometer was left out for an hour at a time, and separate gusts up + to one hundred and fifty and one hundred and eighty miles per hour were + commonly indicated. I remember the final fate of this invention. While + helping to mount it one day, the wind picked me up clear of the ground and + dashed myself and the instrument on some rocks several yards away. The + latter was badly damaged, but thick clothing saved me from serious injury. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + The wind velocity and wind direction charts for Midwinter's Day, when the + steady south-by-east gale was broken after noon by a welcome lull—the + wind veering the while all round the compass. + </p> + <p> + The average velocity for the day 66.9 miles per hour, and the maximum of + the average hourly velocities, ninety-six miles. + </p> + <p> + The steadiness of the temperature was a subject for debate. The stronger + the wind blew, the less variation did the thermometer show. Over a period + of several days there might be a range of only four or five degrees. + Ordinarily, this might be expected of an insular climate, but in our case + it depended upon the fact that the wind remained steady from the interior + of the vast frigid continent. The air which flowed over the Hut had all + passed through the same temperature-cycle. The atmosphere of the interior, + where the plateau stood at an elevation of, say, eight thousand feet, + might have a temperature -45 degrees F. As the air flowed northwards over + Adelie Land to the sea, it would rise slowly in temperature owing to the + increased barometric pressure consequent on the descending gradient of the + plateau. At sea-level the temperature of the river of air would be, + approximately, -20 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + Such a rise in temperature due to compression is a well-known phenomenon, + referred to as the Foehn effect. + </p> + <p> + The compression of the atmosphere during the gusts affected the air + temperature so considerably that, coincident with their passage, the + mercury column could often be seen rising and falling through several + degrees. The uniform conditions experienced during steady high winds were + not only expressed by the slight variation in the temperature, but often + in a remarkably even barometric curve. Thus on July 11 the wind-velocity + for twenty-four hours was, throughout, seventy miles per hour; the + temperature remaining within a few degrees of-21 degrees F., and the + barometric curve did not show as much range as one-twentieth of an inch. + </p> + <p> + In attending to the many instruments and in gathering the voluminous + meteorological data, Madigan had his hands very full. Throughout two years + he carried on the work capably and thoroughly. It was difficult to keep + the instruments free from the penetrating snow and in good running order. + The Robinson anemometer was perhaps the greatest source of worry. Repairs + and readjustments were unavoidable, as the instrument was constantly + working at high pressure. In order that these might be carried out + efficiently, the whole apparatus had to be carried down to the Hut. Here, + Bickerton and Correll were continually in consultation with the + meteorologist on the latest breakdown. Cups were blown off several times, + and one was lost and replaced with difficulty. Most aggravating of all was + a habit the clocks developed of stopping during the colder spells. The + old-fashioned method of boiling them was found of assistance, but it was + discovered that the best treatment was to put them through successive + baths of benzene and alcohol. + </p> + <p> + The most chronic sufferer throughout the vicissitudes of temperature was + the clock belonging to Bage's tide-gauge. Every sleeper in the Hut who was + sensitive to ticking knew and reviled that clock. So often was it + subjected to warm, curative treatment in various resting-places that it + was hunted from pillar to post. A radical operation by Correll—the + insertion of an extra spring—became necessary at last. Correll, when + not engaged designing electroscopes, improving sledge-meters and + perfecting theodolites, was something of a specialist in clocks. His + advice on the subject of refractory time-pieces was freely asked and + cheerfully given. By perseverance and unlimited patience, the tide-gauge + down on the harbour-ice was induced to supply a good series of unbroken + records. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + The tide-gauge + </p> + <p> + The rise and fall of the tide is coincident with the movements of a + perpendicular wire to which the Float is attached. The Wheel is revolved, + and through wire connections (indicated above) displaces vertically the + Pen. This traces a record on paper folded on the drum which is driven by + clockwork. In all weathers, the box was enveloped in drift-proof canvas. + </p> + <p> + Antarctica is a world of colour, brilliant and intensely pure. The chaste + whiteness of the snow and the velvet blackness of the rocks belong to days + of snowy nimbus enshrouding the horizon. When the sky has broken into + cloudlets of fleece, their edges are painted pale orange, fading or richly + glowing if the sun is low. In the high sun they are rainbow-rimmed. + </p> + <p> + The clouds have opened into rifts and the sun is setting in the + north-west. The widening spaces in the zenith are azure, and low in the + north they are emerald. Scenic changes are swift. Above the mounting + plateau a lofty arch of clear sky has risen, flanked by roseate clouds. + Far down in the south it is tinged with indigo and ultramarine, washed + with royal purple paling onwards into cold violet and greyish-blue. + </p> + <p> + Soon the north is unveiled. The liquid globe of sun has departed, but his + glory still remains. Down from the zenith his colours descend through + greenish-blue, yellowish-green, straw-yellow, light terra-cotta to a + diffuse brick-red; each reflected in the dull sheen of freezing sea. Out + on the infinite horizon float icebergs in a mirage of mobile gold. The + Barrier, curving to east and west, is a wall of delicate pink overlaid + with a wondrous mauve—the rising plateau. A cold picture—yet + it awakens the throb of inborn divinity. + </p> + <p> + Despite contrary predictions, there were some enjoyable days in June. + Occupation had to be strenuous, making the blood run hot, otherwise the + wind was apt to be chill. So the Transit House was founded, and there were + many volunteers to assist Bage in carrying the tons of stones which formed + its permanent base. The nearest large collection of boulders was twenty + yards away, on the edge of a moraine, but these after a while became + exhausted. Plenty of rocks actually showed above the surface, but the + majority were frozen-in, and, when of suitable size, could only be moved + by a heavy crowbar. Some of the men, therefore, dislodged the rocks, while + others carried them. + </p> + <p> + When Bage was wondering how long the supply would last, Ninnis and Mertz + came to the rescue with sledges and dog-teams. Boxes were piled on to the + sledges and away the teams went, careering across the ice-flat towards the + Magnetograph House close to which there were many heaps of stones, + wind-swept and easily displaced. Soon a regular service was plying to the + foundations, and, at the same time, the dogs were being trained. This + occupation was continued, weather permitting, for several weeks before + Midwinter's Day. Thus the drivers gained experience, while the animals, + with a wholesome dread of the whip, became more responsive to commands. + Eagerly the huskies strained at their traces with excited yelps. The + heavily laden sledges would break out and start off with increasing speed + over the rough ice. The drivers, running at full speed, jumped on the + racing loads—Mertz in the lead shouting some quaint yodel song; + Ninnis, perhaps, just behind upbraiding a laggard dog. + </p> + <p> + Midwinter's Day! For once, the weather rose to the occasion and calmed + during the few hours of the twilight-day. It was a jovial occasion, and we + celebrated it with the uproarious delight of a community of eighteen young + men unfettered by small conventions. The sun was returning, and we were + glad of it. Already we were dreaming of spring and sledging, summer and + sledging, the ship and home. It was the turn of the tide, and the future + seemed to be sketched in firm, sure outline. While the rest explored all + the ice-caves and the whole extent of our small rocky "selection," Hannam + and Bickerton shouldered the domestic responsibilities. Their menu du + diner to us was a marvel of gorgeous delicacies. After the toasts and + speeches came a musical and dramatic programme, punctuated by choice + gramophone records and rowdy student choruses. The washing-up was + completed by all hands at midnight. Outside, the wind was not to be + outdone; it surpassed itself with an unusual burst of ninety-five miles + per hour. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu du Diner + + Escoffier potage a la Reine + + Noisettes de Phoque | Claret + Haricot Verts | Tintara + Champignons en Sauce Antarctique | + + Pingouin a la Terre Adelie | Burgundy + Petits Pois a la Menthe | Chauvenet + Pommes Nouvelle | 1898 + | + Asperges au Beurre Fondu | + + Plum Pudding Union Jack | Port + Pate de Groseilles | Kopke + | + Desserts | + + Cafe + + ———————-0—————— +</pre> + <p> + During dinner the Blizzard will render the usual accompaniment—the + Tempest. For Ever and Ever etc. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] MIDWINTER'S DAY MENU AT THE MAIN BASE, ADELIE LAND, + 1912 <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X THE PREPARATION OF SLEDGING EQUIPMENT + </h2> + <p> + The world of fashion insists on its minute vagaries in dress not always + with an eye to utility and an explorer in the polar regions is a very + fastidious person, expending a vast amount of care on his attire, but with + the sole idea of comfort, warmth, and usefulness. The clothes he wears are + many and often cumbersome, but they have gradually been perfected to meet + the demands of the local weather conditions. After a sojourn in the + ice-lands, he returns to civilization with a new concept of the value of + dress. At last he can stand still without being reminded that his feet are + chilly; he experiences the peculiar sensation of walking about in an + airily light suit, in glove-tight boots, without helmet or mitts. It gives + him such a delicious feeling of freedom that his energy is unbounded and + life is a very pleasant and easy thing. Then it is that he can turn in + retrospect to the time in exile, appreciate his altered circumstances and + recall the many ingenuities which were evolved to make him master of his + environment. + </p> + <p> + It is sufficient to say that we found the proposition of clothing one of + unusual interest. Any one who was not a practised needleman and machinist + was handicapped for a time, until he fell into the ways of the + through-and-through and blanket-stitch, thimbles, shuttles, spools and + many other things he had once affected to despise as belonging to the + sphere of women's work. It was not long before he was an enthusiast in + many arts attaining to a stage of independence, in which he patented new + ideas and maintained them in hot opposition to the whole community of the + Hut. On some fundamental points all were in agreement, and one of them was + that Adelie Land was the country par excellence for the wind-proof, + drift-tight burberry. + </p> + <p> + Outside all other garments the burberry gabardine was worn. The material + was light and loosely fitting, but in wind and drift it had to be + hermetically sealed, so to speak, for the snow crept in wherever there was + an aperture. The trousers were of double thickness, as they were exposed + to the greatest wear. Attached by large buttons, toggles or lampwick + braces, they reached as high as the lower part of the chest. Below, they + had lamp-wick lashings which were securely bound round the uppers of boots + or finnesko. In walking, the trousers would often work off the leather + boots, especially if they were cut to a tailor's length, and snow would + then pour up the leg and down into the boots in a remarkably short time. + To counteract this, Ninnis initiated the very satisfactory plan of sewing + a short length of canvas on to the boots to increase the length of the + upper. + </p> + <p> + The burberry helmet and blouse were either in one piece or separate. For + use round the Hut, in thick drifts, the combination of helmet and blouse + was handy and time-saving. For sledging, when low temperatures and strong + winds might be expected all the time, it met the conditions well; there + being no necessity to worry about keeping the neck drift-tight. Under + ordinary circumstances it was very convenient to have a blouse and helmet + detached, as one so often could wear the former with a well-padded woollen + helmet and be reduced only as a last resource to wearing the burberry + helmet. + </p> + <p> + The blouse was roomy, giving great freedom of movement. Around the neck + was a draw-string, which bunched in the jacket tightly over the lower part + of the helmet. There was also a draw-string round the waist. It was here + that we had the greatest difficulty in making the garment fit snow-tight. + If simply tied, the blouse would soon slip up from below, especially if + one were working with pick and shovel, carrying cases or blocks of ice. To + obviate this, some of the men sewed loops or tags of lamp-wick on to the + sides of the trousers, to connect with corresponding attachments on the + blouse. As an additional security, others wore an outside belt which was, + even if the blouse slipped up for some distance, a line of defence against + the drift-snow. + </p> + <p> + The burberry helmet completely enclosed the head except for the face, + which remained uncovered at the bottom of a funnel stiffened by several + rings of copper-wire. Lampwick, the universal polar "cord," was sewn in + short strips in front of the ears and tied at the back of the head, firmly + securing the helmet. Since the voyage of the 'Discovery' (1901-1904) + lamp-wick had been used widely in sledging on account of its width, + softness, comparative warmth and because of the fact that ordinary cord is + not so easy to manipulate in cold weather. Large buttons of leather or + bone were not nearly so popular as small, smooth lengths of stick engaging + cross-wise with loops of cord—known as toggles, which became quite a + mania with some members of the Expedition. Whetter, for instance, was + known as the "Toggle King," because of the multitude of these + stick-and-cord appendages which hung from every part of his clothing. + </p> + <p> + Under the burberrys thick, but light, suits of Jaeger fleece were worn. + They combined trousers and a sleeveless coat, over which a woollen jersey + was worn. In calm weather these with underclothing were all-sufficient, + but in the average fifty-mile wind at any temperature in the neighbourhood + of zero Fahrenheit, they felt distinctly porous. + </p> + <p> + In less windy weather the luxury of discarding burberrys, either partly or + wholly, was an indulgence which gave great satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + Finnesko were the favourite foot-gear—soft and commodious + reindeer-skin fur boots. Once these were stuffed with Lapp saennegras or + manilla fibre, and the feet covered with several pairs of socks, cold + could be despised unless one were stationary for some time or the socks or + padding became damp. Even though the padding were wet, violent exercise + kept the temperature "balance" in the warm direction, especially if one + were also under the stimulus of a recent hot meal. + </p> + <p> + Of course, on smooth ice or polished snow in even moderate winds it was + useless to try and keep one's feet in finnesko, although practice gave + great agility in calmer weather. As already indicated, spiked crampons on + approved models, tested on the glacier-slopes in a hurricane wind, were + almost always worn encasing the finnesko. With so many coverings the feet + often became uncomfortably hot, and for odd jobs about the Hut and not far + abroad spiked leather boots gave most satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + There were various coverings for the hands: felt mitts, mittens, + instrument-gloves and wolfskin mitts. + </p> + <p> + The first were used in conjunction with fingerless mittens. The wear and + tear on these was greater than on any other item of clothing. It was a + common sight to see them ragged, canvas-covered, patched, repatched and + again repatched, to be at last reluctantly thrown away. There were two + compartments in a single glove, one for the thumb and the other for the + fingers. It is much easier to keep the fingers warm when in contact with + one another than by having them in separate stalls. + </p> + <p> + Instrument-gloves of wool were used for delicate manipulations, as a + partial protection, since they reduced the stinging chill of cold metal at + low temperatures. + </p> + <p> + Wolfskin mitts are unexcelled for use in cold windy weather. Their shaggy + external hair entangles the drift-snow, which thaws, soaks the skin and + refreezes until the mitt is stiff as buckram. This is their main + disadvantage. These mitts or rather gauntlets were made longer in the arms + than usual so as to overlap the burberry sleeves and keep the wrists warm. + </p> + <p> + Lambskin mitts with the wool facing inwards were very useful and wore well + for occupations like hauling on ropes and lifting cases. + </p> + <p> + Like every other movable thing, mitts had to be made fast to prevent them + blowing away. So they were slung round the neck by a yoke of lamp-wick. + The mittened hand could then be removed with the assurance that the outer + mitt would not be far away when it was wanted, no matter how hard the wind + blew. + </p> + <p> + There has been much discussion as to the relative merits of fur and + woollen clothing. After all the question has resolved itself into one of + personal predilection. It has been claimed that furs are warmer and + lighter. The warmth follows from the wind-proof quality of the hide which, + unfortunately, also tends to retain moist exhalations from the body. In + Adelie Land, the only furs we used were finnesko, wolfskin mitts and + sleeping-bags of reindeer skins. + </p> + <p> + As in every part of the equipment, modifications had to be made in the + circular Willesden-drill tents. To facilitate their erection in the + perpetual winds they were sewn permanently on to the five bamboo poles, + instead of being thrown over the latter previously set in position. Thus + the tents opened like large conical umbrellas. A rawhide loop was fixed to + the middle one of the three windward legs and, when raising a tent during + a high wind, it was the usual thing for a man to be inside gripping the + loop to pin down the windward legs and at the same time, kicking out the + two leeward legs. On hard surfaces, holes were dug to receive the ends of + the poles; at other times they were pressed home into the snow by the man + inside the tent. + </p> + <p> + When pitched, the tent was held down by blocks of snow or ice, helped by + spare food-bags, which were all piled round on a broad flounce. + Ventilators, originally supplied with the tents, had to be dispensed with + on account of the incessant drift. The door of the tent was an oval funnel + of burberry material just large enough to admit a man and secured by a + draw-string. + </p> + <p> + Strips of calico and webbing were sewn over the insides of the light tents + to strengthen them for sledging in the summer. For heavy weather we also + had japara sail-cloth tents with Willesden canvas flounces. These gave one + a feeling of greater security and were much more wind-proof, but + unfortunately twice as heavy as the first-mentioned. + </p> + <p> + A floor-cloth of light Willesden canvas covered the surface of snow or ice + in the interior of the tent; performing when sledging the alternative + office of a sail. + </p> + <p> + In order to cut snow, neve or ice to pile on the flounce, a pick and spade + had to be included in the sledging equip meet. As a rule, a strong, + pointed shovel weighing about six pounds answers very well; but in Adelie + Land, the surface was so often wind-swept ice, polished porcelain-snow, or + hard neve that a pick was necessary to make any impression upon it. It was + found that a four-pound spade, carefully handled, and a four-pound miner's + pick provided against all emergencies. + </p> + <p> + Our sledges were similar to those of other British Antarctic expeditions; + of eleven- and twelve-foot lengths. The best were Norwegian, made of ash + and hickory. Others built in Sydney, of Australian woods, were admirably + suited for special work. Those made of mountain-ash had the advantage of + being extremely light, but the runners wore out quickly on ice and hard + neve. Sledges of powellized spotted gum were very strong and stood plenty + of rough usage, but were heavier than those procured in Norway. A decking + of bamboo slats secured by copper-wire to the crossbars was usually + employed. + </p> + <p> + A light bamboo mast and spar were fitted to each sledge. Immediately in + front of the mast came the "cooker-box," containing in respective + compartments the primus and a bottle of spirit for lighting it, as well as + spare prickers, openers and fillers for the kerosene tins, repair outfits + and other odd articles. The cooker-boxes were of Venesta board, with + hinged lids secured by chocks and overlapped by japara cloth to exclude as + much drift-snow as possible. An instrument-box was secured to the sledge + near the rear and just forward of a Venesta or aluminium tray on which the + kerosene contained in one-gallon tins was carried. In several cases the + tray was widened to receive as well a case containing a dip-circle. + Rearmost of all was a wooden crosspiece to which the shaft of the + sledge-meter was attached through a universal joint. On the middle section + of the sledge between the cooker-box and instrument-box, sleeping-bags, + food-bags, clothes-bags, tent, alpine rope, theodolite legs, and other + articles, were arranged, packed and immovably stiffened by buckled straps + passing from side to side. + </p> + <p> + Sledging harness for both men and dogs was constructed of canvas. In the + former case, a wide belt of triple thickness encircled the body at the + hips, sewn to braces of narrower strips passing over the shoulders, while + hauling-rope was attached to the belt behind. The strength of the whole + depended on the care bestowed in sewing the parts together, and, since his + life might depend upon it, no one made anything else but a thorough job of + his harness. + </p> + <p> + Ninnis and Mertz ran a tailoring business for the dogs, who were brought + one by one into the outer Hut to be measured for harness. After many + lengths had been cut with scissors the canvas bands were put through and + sewn together on the large sewing-machine and then each dog was fitted and + the final alterations were made. The huskies looked quite smart in their + "suits". + </p> + <p> + Upon the primus heater, alone, did we rely for cooking the meals on + sledging journeys. First used for purposes of sledging by Dr. Nansen in + his journey across Greenland, the primus is only economically managed + after some practice. To light a primus in a draughty tent at a low + temperature calls for some forbearance before one is a thorough master of + the art. A sledging cook will often make a disagreeable faux pas by + extinguishing the primus in the preparation of hoosh. This is most readily + done by lowering too quickly the outside cover over the rest of the + cooker. Fumes of vaporizing kerosene soon fill the tent and when matches + are found, the cooker pulled to pieces, the primus relighted and the + choking vapours have cleared, one is apt to think that all is well. The + hoosh is quite as successful as usual, but the cocoa, made from water in + the annulus, has a tincture of kerosene which cannot be concealed. + </p> + <p> + In the "Nansen Cooker," which we used, a maximum result is secured from + the heat of the primus. The hot gases from the combustion of the kerosene, + before they escape into the outside air, have to circulate along a + tortuous path, passing from the hot interior to the colder exterior + compartments, losing heat all the time. Thus a hot hoosh is preparing in + the central vessel side by side with the melting of snow for cocoa or tea + in the annulus. By the combination of "Nansen Cooker" and primus stove one + gallon of kerosene oil properly husbanded is made to last for twelve days + in the preparation of the ordinary ration for three men. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] <a name="link2H_SECT" id="link2H_SECT"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Section through a Nansen Sledging Cooker mounted on the primus + </h2> + <p> + The subject of food is one which requires peculiar consideration and + study. It is assumed that a polar expedition must carry all its + food-stuffs in that variety and quantity which may approximately satisfy + normal demands. Fortunately, the advance of science has been such that + necessaries like vegetables, fruit, meats and milk are now preserved so + that the chances of bacterial contamination are reduced to a minimum. A + cold climate is an additional security towards the same end. + </p> + <p> + Speaking generally, while living for months in an Antarctic hut, it is a + splendid thing to have more than the mere necessaries of life. Since one + is cut off from the ordinary amenities of social existence, it is + particularly necessary that equipment and food should be of the very best; + in some measure to replace a lack which sooner or later makes itself + keenly felt. Explorers, after all, are only mortal. + </p> + <p> + Luxuries, then, are good in moderation, and mainly for their psychological + effect. After a spell of routine, a celebration is the natural sequel, and + if there are delicacies which in civilization are more palatable than + usual, why not take them to where they will receive a still fuller and + heartier appreciation? There is a corresponding rise in the "tide of life" + and the ennui of the same task, in the same place, in the same wind, is + not so noticeable. So we did not forget our asparagus and jugged hare. + </p> + <p> + In the matter of sledging foods, one comes down to a solid basis of + dietetics. But even dietetics as a science has to stand aside when actual + experience speaks. Dietetics deals with proteins, carbohydrates, fats, and + calories: all terms which need definition and comprehension before the + value of a sledging ration can be fundamentally understood. When the + subject was first introduced into table conversation at the Hut, it was + regarded somewhat suspiciously as "shop." But it gradually won interest + simply because it was of such vital concern. + </p> + <p> + In sledging there is undoubtedly a critical allowance which will yield the + best results. Circumstances alter cases, and the correct ration under one + set of conditions cannot be expected to coincide with that in another + situation. Thus, the journey may be conducted under conditions of great + cold or of comparative warmth, by man-hauling or auxiliary power, at + sea-level or on an altitude, through regions where there is a reasonable + hope of securing additions of meat by the way, or across barren tracts + devoid of game. In each instance particular demands must be supplied. + </p> + <p> + In selecting the articles of diet, idiosyncrasies of individuals should be + consulted in reason, and under no consideration should anything be taken + which bears the slightest stigma of contamination. It remains, then, to + discriminate those foods which contribute the greatest amount of nutriment + for a given weight, and which, inter se, preserve a proper dietetic + balance. Variety is very desirable, provided that there is no important + sacrifice in nutrient value. The proof of a wisely selected ration is to + find at the end of a long sledge journey that the sole craving is for an + increase in the ration. Of course, such would be the ideal result of a + perfect ration, which does not exist. + </p> + <p> + Considering that an ordinary individual in civilization may only satisfy + the choice demands of his appetite by selecting from the multifarious bill + of fare of a modern restaurant, it will be evident that the same person, + though already on the restricted diet of an explorer, cannot be suddenly + subjected to a sledging ration for any considerable period without a + certain exercise of discipline. + </p> + <p> + For example, the Eastern Coastal Party, sledging at fairly high + temperatures over the sea-ice, noted that the full ration of hoosh + produced at times a mild indigestion, they drank much liquid to satisfy an + intense thirst and on returning to the Hut found their appetites inclined + to tinned fruit and penguins' eggs. Bickerton's and Bage's parties, though + working at a much higher altitude, had a similar experience. The former, + for instance, could not at first drink the whole allowance of thick, rich + cocoa without a slight nausea. The latter saved rations during the first + two weeks of their journey, and only when they rose to greater heights and + were in fine condition did they appreciate the ration to the full. Again, + even when one becomes used to the ration, the sensation of full + satisfaction does not last for more than an hour. The imagination reaches + forward to the next meal, perhaps partly on account of the fact that + marching is often monotonous and the scenery uninspiring. Still, even + after a good evening hoosh, the subconscious self may assert itself in + food-dreams. The reaction from even a short sledging trip, where food has + been plentiful, is to eat a good deal, astonishing in amount to those who + for the time being have lived at the Hut. + </p> + <p> + It may appear that a serious case is being made against the polar sledging + ration. On the whole, it was found to be excellent and the best that + experience had been able to devise. Entering the polar zones, one must not + be over-fastidious, but take it as a matter of course that there will be + self-denial and deprivation of small luxuries. + </p> + <p> + The energy exerted by man, and the requirements of tissue-building are + derived from the organic compounds known as proteins,** fats and + carbohydrates, though in a slight degree from other substances, most + important of which are minute quantities of mineral matter. + </p> + <p> + A calorie as used in dietetics is the amount of heat required to raise the + temperature of one kilogramme of water at 0 degrees C. to 1 degree C. The + heat-value of food-stuffs, stated in calories, can be quickly reckoned + when chemical analyses stating their protein, fat and carbohydrate + contents are available. It has been ascertained that one gramme of protein + or carbohydrate yields 4.1 calories, whilst the same amount of fat + produces 9.3 calories. Thus the value of fat-containing foods in a + sledging ration is at once apparent. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** The proteins are complex nitrogenous compounds which are preeminent +in fulfilling the two functions of a food: to form tissue and to produce +work and heat. As examples may be quoted, myosin the chief protein of +ordinary meat or muscle, ovalbumin one of the proteins of egg-white, +casein belonging to milk and cheese, and gluten a protein-mixture in +flour. +</pre> + <p> + Fats are organic non-nitrogenous substances obtained from both animal and + vegetable sources, e.g. butter and olive oil. + </p> + <p> + The carbohydrates are compounds of carbon with hydrogen and oxygen in a + certain proportion, e.g. cane-sugar and starch. + </p> + <p> + Mineral matters are inorganic, being chlorides, carbonates or phosphates + of calcium, sodium and potassium. + </p> + <p> + Theoretically, any of the three classes of foods mentioned might be + thought to supply adequate energy, if taken in sufficient amount. + Practically, however, protein and carbohydrate are essential, and it is + better to have a mixture of all three. So, in concentrating foods for + sledging, the largest possible proportion of fat, compatible with other + considerations, is included. + </p> + <p> + Ordinarily, a normal man consumes some four or five pounds weight of solid + food per diem, of which 50 per cent., it is rather surprising to learn, is + water. When sledging, one has the satisfaction of knowing that all but the + smallest quantity of the food dragged is solid nutriment. The water is + added when the meals are cooked. It is just in this artificial addition + that the sledging ration is not perfect, though as a synthesis it + satisfies the demands of dietetics. Food containing water, as cooked meat + oozing with its own gravy is a more palatable thing than dried meat-powder + to which boiling water has been added. In the same way, a dry, hard + biscuit plus liquid is a different thing from a spongy loaf of yeast bread + with its high percentage of water. One must reckon with the psychic factor + in eating. When sledging, one does not look for food well served as long + as the food is hot, nourishing and filling. So the usage of weeks and a + wolfish appetite make hoosh a most delicious preparation; but when the + days of an enforced ration are over, the desire for appetizing well-served + food reasserts itself. The body refuses to be treated merely as an engine. + </p> + <p> + The daily polar sledging ration for one man has been concentrated to a + figure just above two pounds in weight, For instance, in recent Antarctic + expeditions, Scott, in 1903, used 34.7 ozs., Shackleton in 1908 used 34.82 + ozs. and our own amounted to 34.25 ozs. Exclusive of tea, pepper and salt, + Shackleton's ration and that adopted by Wild at the Western Base and + ourselves in Adelie Land were identical—34 ozs. Reverting to earlier + explorers, for the sake of comparisons, McClintock in 1850 brought his + minimum down to 42 ozs., Nares in 1875 to 40 ozs., Greely in 1882 to 41.75 + ozs., and Abruzzi in 1900 to 43.5 ozs. + </p> + <p> + Our allowance was made up as follows, the relative amounts in the daily + sledging ration for one man being stated: plasmon biscuit, 12 ozs.; + pemmican, 8 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.; plasmon chocolate, 2 ozs.; glaxo (dried + milk), 5 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; cocoa, 1 oz.; tea,.25 oz. It will be + instructive to make a short note on each item. + </p> + <p> + Plasmon biscuit was made of the best flour mixed with 30 per cent. of + plasmon powder. Each biscuit weighed 2.25 ozs., and was made specially + thick and hard to resist shaking and bumping in transit as well as the + rough usage of a sledging journey. The effect of the high percentage of + plasmon, apart from its nutritive value, was to impart additional + toughness to the biscuit, which tested our teeth so severely that we + should have preferred something less like a geological specimen and more + like ordinary "hard tack," The favourite method of dealing with these + biscuits was to smash them with an ice-axe or nibble them into small + pieces and treat the fragments for a while to the solvent action of hot + cocoa. Two important proteins were present in this food: plasmon, a + trade-name for casein, the chief protein of milk, and gluten, a mixture of + proteins in flour. + </p> + <p> + The pemmican we used consisted of powdered dried beef (containing the + important protein, myosin) and 50 per cent. of pure fat in the form of + lard. The large content of fat contributes to its high caloric value, so + that it is regularly included in sledging diets. Hoosh is a stodgy, + porridge-like mixture of pemmican, dried biscuit and water, brought to the + boil and served hot. Some men prefer it cooler and more dilute, and to + this end dig up snow from the floor of the tent with their spoons, and mix + it in until the hoosh is "to taste," Eating hoosh is a heightened form of + bliss which no sledger can ever forget. + </p> + <p> + Glaxo is a proprietary food preparation of dried milk, manufactured in New + Zealand. It is without doubt an ideal food for any climate where + concentration is desirable and asepsis cannot be neglected. The value of + milk as an all-round food is well known. It contains protein as casein, + fat as cream and in fine globules, carbohydrate as lactose (milk sugar) + and mineral substances whose importance is becoming more recognized. At + the Western Base, Wild's party invented glaxo biscuits; an unbaked mixture + of flour and dried milk, which were in themselves a big inducement to go + sledging. At the Hut, making milk from the dried powder required some + little experience. Cold water was added to the dried powder, a paste was + made and warm or hot water poured in until the milk was at the required + strength. One of the professional "touches" was to aerate the milk, after + mixing, by pouring it from jug to jug. + </p> + <p> + Butter, although it contains nearly 20 per cent. of water is a food of + high heat-value and is certainly more easily digested than fat, such as + dripping, with a higher melting-point. Ours was fresh Victorian butter, + packed in the ordinary export boxes, and carried to the Antarctic on the + open bridge of the Aurora. With a sheath-knife, the sledging cook cut off + three small chunks of two ounces each from the frozen butter every day at + lunch. To show how the appetite is affected by extreme cold, one feels + that butter is a wholesome thing just in itself, being more inclined to + eat a pound than two ounces. + </p> + <p> + Sugar—the carbohydrate, sucrose—has special qualities as a + food since it is quickly assimilated, imparting within a few minutes fresh + energy for muscular exertion. Athletes will support this; in fact, a + strong solution of sugar in water is used as a stimulant in long-distance + running and other feats of endurance. Wild, for instance, found as a + matter of experience that chocolate was preferable to cheese as a sledging + food, even though similar weights had approximately the same food-value. + </p> + <p> + Cocoa and tea were the two sledging beverages. The cocoa was used for two + meals, the first and the last in the day, and the tea for lunch. Both + contain stimulating alkaloids, theobromine and caffeine, and fat is a + notable constituent of cocoa. Of course, their chief nourishing value, as + far as we were concerned, lay in the glaxo and sugar added. + </p> + <p> + Lastly, plasmon chocolate is a preparation of pure chocolate (a mixture of + ground cocoa, white sugar and starch) with the addition of 10 per cent. of + plasmon. + </p> + <p> + As food for the dogs, there was nothing better than dried seal-steaks with + the addition of a little blubber. Ordinary pemmican is readily eaten, but + not appreciated by the dogs in the same way as seal meat. To save weight, + the meat was dried over the stove without heating it sufficiently to cook + it. By this measure, almost 50 per cent. in weight was saved. + </p> + <p> + The Hut was all agog with movement and bustle on the days when rations + were being made up and packed. Starting from the earliest stage in the + process, there would be two men in the outer Hut grinding plasmon biscuit + into powder. One would turn away for dear life and the other smash the + biscuit with a hammer on a metal slab and feed continuously into the + grinder. The atmosphere would be full of the nauseous vapours of blubber + arising from dishes on the stove where seal meat was drying for the dogs. + Ninnis and Mertz superintended in this department, in careless moments + allowing the blubber to frizzle and diffuse its aroma through the Hut. + </p> + <p> + Inside, spread along the eighteen-foot table would be the weighers, the + bag-makers or machinists, and the packers. The first made up a compound of + cocoa, glaxo and sugar—cocoa compound; mixed glaxo and sugar and + stirred together, pemmican and biscuit—pemmican compound. These were + weighed and run into calico bags, rapidly supplied by several machinists + farther along the table. In spare moments the weighers stowed chocolate, + whole biscuits, butter and tea into 190 sacks of various sizes. Lastly, + the packers had strong canvas tanks, as they were called, designed to hold + food for a week and a fortnight respectively. Into these the rations were + carefully distributed, butter in the centre, whole biscuits near the top. + Then the tanks were tightly closed, and one man operated with palm and + sail-needle, sewing them up with twine. At the same time, a side-line was + run in pemmican which was removed semi-frozen from the air-tight tins, and + shaved into small pieces with a strong sheath-knife. Butter, too, arrived + from the refrigerator-store and was subdivided into two-ounce or pound + lumps. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, other occupations were in full swing. An amateur cobbler, his + crampon on a last, studded its spiked surface with clouts, hammering away + in complete disregard of the night-watchman's uneasy slumbers. The big + sewing-machine raced at top-speed round the flounce of a tent, and in odd + corners among the bunks were groups mending mitts, strengthening + sleeping-bags and patching burberrys. The cartographer at his table + beneath a shaded acetylene light drew maps and sketched, the magnetician + was busy on calculations close by. The cook and messman often made their + presence felt and heard. In the outer Hut, the lathe spun round, its whirr + and click drowned in the noisy rasp of the grinder and the blast of the + big blow-lamp. The last-named, Bickerton, "bus-driver" and air-tractor + expert, had converted, with the aid of a few pieces of covering tin, into + a forge. A piece of red-hot metal was lifted out and thrust into the vice; + Hannam was striker and Bickerton holder. General conversation was + conducted in shouts, Hannam's being easily predominant. + </p> + <p> + The sum total of sounds was sufficient for a while to make every one + oblivious to the clamour of the restless wind. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI SPRING EXPLOITS + </h2> + <p> + If the "winter calms" were a delusion, there were at least several + beautifully clear, moderately calm days in June. The expectation of colder + weather had been realized, and by the end of the month it was a + perceptible fact that the sun had definitely turned, describing a longer + arc when skimming the distant fleets of bergs along the northern horizon. + Thus on June 28 the refracted image of the sun rose into visibility about + eleven o'clock, heralded by a vivid green sky and damask cloud and by one + o'clock had disappeared. + </p> + <p> + On the same day every one was abroad, advancing the wireless masts another + stage and digging ice-shafts. Stillwell commenced a contoured plane-table + survey of the neighbourhood of Winter Quarters. He continued this with + many breaks during the next few months and eventually completed an + accurate and valuable map, undeterred by the usual series of frost-bites. + </p> + <p> + There was much anticipated of July, but the wind soughed on and the + temperature decreased. Just to demonstrate its resource, the wind + maintained ninety-seven miles per hour for six hours on July 19, while the + puff-anemometer indicated several "breaks" of one hundred and fifty miles + per hour. + </p> + <p> + July 21 was cold, calm and clear. For the first time after many weeks the + sun was mildly warm, and all felt with a spring of optimism that a new era + had begun. The sea which had been kept open by the wind was immediately + overspread with thin, dark ice, which in a few hours was dotted with many + ice-flowers aggregates of fern-like, sprouting fronds similar to small + bouquets or rosettes. Soon the surface had whitened and thickened and by + next morning was firm enough to hold a man out beyond the nearest island. + The wind did not allow this state of affairs to last for long, for by + lunch-time it had hurried away the wide floes and raged across a foaming + sea. + </p> + <p> + We still considered the question of sledging, and I decided that if there + were the slightest prospect of accomplishing anything, several of us would + start before the end of July on a short journey. The month, however, + closed with nothing to commend it. The night-watchman for July 29 says: + </p> + <p> + "The moon was wonderfully bright to-night, encircled by a complete halo. + It appeared to hang suspended like a silver globe in the dark blue sky. + The stars flash and sparkle and seem much nearer here than in Australia. + At midnight the wind blew at ninety miles per hour, so that it was no easy + job getting to the screen in slippery finnesko. Away in the north there + was a dense cloud of spray and sea-smoke, and the wind screamed past the + Hut. The 'St. Elmoscope' was buzzing merrily in the roof all the time." + </p> + <p> + Ninnis and Mertz with a team of dogs managed, on the morning of the 29th, + to get several loads of forty pounds over the first steep rise of the + glacier to Webb's magnetic ice-cave against a "blow" of seventy miles per + hour. + </p> + <p> + August 1 was marked by a hurricane, and the celebration in the evening of + Swiss Confederation Day. Mertz was the hero of the occasion as well as + cook and master of ceremonies. From a mysterious box he produced all kinds + of quaint conserves, and the menu soared to unknown delicacies like + "Potage a la Suisse, Choucroute garnie aux saucission de Berne, Puree de + foie gras trufee, and Leckerley de Bale." Hanging above the buoyant + assembly were the Cross of Helvetia and the Jack of Britannia. + </p> + <p> + It was not till August 8 that there was any indication of improvement. The + sun was bright, the barometer was steady, the wind fell to forty miles an + hour and a fine radiant of cirrus cloud spread out fan-like from the + north; the first from that direction for months. + </p> + <p> + On the afternoon of August 9, Ninnis, Madigan and I set off with a team of + dogs against a forty-mile wind in an attempt to push to the south. + Darkness was coming on when we sighted a bamboo pole, three and a quarter + miles south of the Hut, and camped. The dogs pulled well up the steep + slopes, but the feet of several were cut by the sharp edges of the + wind-worn ice. + </p> + <p> + Very heavy gusts swept by in the early morning hours of the 10th. and when + the time came to get out of our sleeping-bags it fell calm for a short + space. We had taken down the tent and had started to move away, when back + rushed the wind, strong and steady. Still we pushed on with our willing + team and by a piece of good fortune reached the sledge which had been + abandoned in the autumn, five and a half miles from the Hut, and of whose + fate in the winter's hurricanes we had made all kind of conjectures. + </p> + <p> + On its leeward side there was a ramp of very hard snow slanting down from + the top of the sledge. To windward the low pedestal of ice on which the + runners stood was hollowed out, and the wood of the rails and cross-bars, + the leather straps, tent, floor-cloth and canvas food-tanks were all + bleached and worn. The aluminium cooker, strapped on its box, was brightly + polished on the weather side by the dry, drifting snow impelled by the + furious winds. A thermograph, left behind in the autumn, was found to be + intact and indicated a temperature of -35 degrees F.—the lowest for + the eight days during which it had run. The remains of Madigan's + plum-pudding of the autumn were unearthed and found in splendid condition. + That evening it was thawed out over the primus and we demolished it, after + a pause of over five months since having the first cut. + </p> + <p> + At this spot the steepest grades of the ascent to the plateau were left + behind, and it appeared to be a strategic point from which to extend our + sledging efforts. The main difficulty was that of pitching camp in the + prevailing winds on a surface of ice. To obviate this, the only expedient + was to excavate a shelter beneath the ice itself; and there was the + further consideration that all sledging parties would be able to make use + of such a haven and save extra wear on their tents. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of August 11 Madigan and Ninnis commenced to sink a deep + vertical trench, at one end of which a room was hewn out large enough to + accommodate three men. The job was finished on the following day, and we + struck the tent and moved to our new abode. The tent was spread over the + vertical shaft which served as the entrance. + </p> + <p> + It was a great relief to be in a strong room, with solid walls of ice, in + place of the cramped tent flapping violently in the wind. Inside, the + silence was profound; the blizzard was banished. Aladdin's Cave it was + dubbed—a truly magical world of glassy facets and scintillating + crystals. + </p> + <p> + Shelves were chipped out at a moment's notice for primus stove, spirit + bottle, matches, kerosene and other oddments. At one side a small hole was + cut to communicate with a narrow fissure which provided ventilation + without allowing the entrance of drift snow. Whatever daylight there was + filtered through the roof and walls without hindrance. A small crevasse + opened near at hand and was a natural receptacle for rubbish. The purest + ice for cooking could be immediately hacked from the walls without the + inconvenience of having to don one's burberrys and go outside for it. + Finally, one neatly disposed of spare clothes by moistening the corner of + each garment and pressing it against the wall for a few seconds, where it + would remain hanging until required. The place, in fact, was simply + replete with conveniences. We thoroughly enjoyed the night's rest in + Aladdin's Cave, notwithstanding alarming cracks proceeding occasionally + from the crevasses around. + </p> + <p> + Madigan and Ninnis dug a shelter for the dogs, which spent their time + curled up so as to expose as little surface as possible to the biting + wind. Their thick coats did not adhere to a snow surface, but readily + became frozen down to ice, so that an ice-axe would have to be used to + chip them free. + </p> + <p> + On August 13, though there was a steady, strong wind blowing, we continued + our advance to the south. The dogs hated to face wind, but, on the whole, + did better than expected. In the afternoon, when only eight miles south of + Winter Quarters and at an altitude of two thousand feet, dark and lowering + clouds formed overhead, and I decided to give up any idea of going farther + out, for the time being. We had provisions for a few days only, and there + was every indication of thick, drifting weather, during which, in the + crevassed ice of that vicinity, it would not be advisable to travel. + </p> + <p> + After depoting a pick, shovel and some pemmican, we started back, thinking + it might be possible to reach the Hut the same night. However, driven by a + strong wind over a polished, slippery surface split into small crevasses, + down a grade which steepened quickly, we required to have all our senses + vigilant. Two of the dogs remained in harness and the rest were allowed to + run loose ahead. These two strained every effort to catch up to their + companions. + </p> + <p> + We retarded the sledge as much as possible and all went well for a few + minutes. Then the wind slewed the sledge, the runners struck an + irregularity in the surface and the whole capsized. This happened + repeatedly, until there was nothing to do but loose the two remaining dogs + and drag the sledge ourselves. The dogs were soon lost to sight, except + Pavlova, who remained with us all the time. As the hours of light were + short in August, darkness had come before Aladdin's Cave was reached, and + it was with some relief that we saw the sledge, flag-pole and the + expectant dogs suddenly loom up in front. The sleeping-bags and other gear + were passed down into the Cave and the dogs were fed. + </p> + <p> + When the doorway was opened in the morning, August 14, a blizzard with + dense drifting snow was in full progress. As it was not possible to see + any distance, and as our quarters were very comfortable, we decided to + wait for another day. Madigan and Ninnis went out and fed the dogs, who + were all snugly curled up in beds of snow. + </p> + <p> + The weather was no better on the 15th, but, as we were only five and a + half miles from the Hut, which was more comfortable and where there was + much work to be done, it seemed a shame to remain cooped up in idleness. + Madigan and Ninnis were both strongly in favour of making a dash for the + Hut, so we set off. + </p> + <p> + The sledge having been dug out, one man went in front to keep the course + and two men brought up the rear, holding back the load. With long-spiked + Swiss crampons we could hold up very well on the ice. In dense drift it + was not a simple matter to steer a correct course for the Hut and it was + essential not to deviate, as the rocky foreshores near which it stood + extended only for a mile east and west; on either side abutting on + vertical ice-cliffs. With a compelling force like a prance at our backs, + it was not a nice thing to contemplate finding ourselves on the brink of a + precipice. + </p> + <p> + The wind, however, was steady, and we knew at what angle to steer to keep + a rough course; and we were also helped by a number of small crevasses + between three and five and a half miles which ran approximately north and + south. + </p> + <p> + Half a mile had been covered before we remarked the absence of the dogs + which had been left to follow. We had taken for granted that they would + follow us, and were so fully occupied after starting that their absence + had passed unnoticed. It would be difficult to locate them if we returned; + the weather would improve in a few days; if they felt hungry they would + come down of their own accord. So we decided to go on without them. + </p> + <p> + At two miles from the Hut the drift thinned out and the wind became more + gusty. Between the gusts the view ahead opened out for a considerable + distance, and the rocks soon showed black below the last steep fall. + </p> + <p> + Back at the Hut it was arranged that if the dogs did not return in a + reasonable time, Bage, Mertz and Hurley should go up to Aladdin's Cave in + search of them. + </p> + <p> + They made a great effort to get away next morning. The sledge was hauled + for one thousand one hundred yards up to the magnetic ice-cave against a + bitter torrent of air rushing by at eighty-two miles an hour. Here they + retreated exhausted. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th the wind was gauged at eighty-four miles an hour, and nothing + could be done. Dense drift and ferocious wind continued until the morning + of August 21, and still none of the dogs had come home. + </p> + <p> + Bage, Hurley and Mertz took advantage of a slight lull to start off at + 6.30 A.M. As they did not return that night we presumed they were making + good headway. + </p> + <p> + The drift was thick and the wind high for four days, and it was not until + the morning of the 25th that the weather showed clearer and more + promising. At 2 P.M. Bage and his companions arrived at the Hut bringing + all the dogs except Grandmother, who had died of exhaustion. Aladdin's + Cave had been difficult to find in the driving snow, which had thickened + after the first few miles. They actually passed close to it when Mertz, + between the gusts, sighted Castor jumping about, fully alive to the + approaching relief. The other dogs were found curled up in the snow, in a + listless, apathetic state; apparently in the same positions when left + seven days before. They had made no attempt to break into several bags of + provisions lying close at hand, preferring to starve rather than expose + their faces to the pelting drift. All were frozen down except Basilisk and + Castor. Pavlova was in the best condition, possibly because her last meal + had been an extra full one; a reward for remaining with us when the others + had bolted. Grandmother was in the worst condition, and, despite all + efforts at revival, died four hours after. As the poor brutes were very + weak after their long fast and exposure, they were taken into the Cave and + fed on warm hoosh. Everything possible was done for them, and in return + the party passed a very miserable time cramped in such a small space with + six dogs. The accommodation was slightly increased by enlarging the Cave. + </p> + <p> + Five days of calm weather! It could scarcely be credited, yet September + came with such a spell. They gave us great opportunities, and, for once, a + vision of what perfect Antarctic days might be. The sea speedily froze + over and extended our territory to the north. Every day we dredged among + the tide-cracks, until Hunter and Laseron had material enough to sort and + bottle for weeks. Seals came up everywhere, and the dogs gorged on + much-needed meat and blubber. Three large Weddells were shot near the + "Eastern Barrier" on September 1, and hauled up an ice-cliff eighty feet + high to the rocks above. Work on the wireless masts went on apace, and the + geologist was abroad with his plane-table every day. Webb and Bage, after + a protracted interval, were able to take star observations for time, in + order to check the chronometers. + </p> + <p> + Mertz, Ninnis, Whetter and Laseron, with a team of dogs sledged a big load + of food-stuffs to Aladdin's Cave on September 1. At the Cave the dogs were + let loose, but instead of running back to the Hut, lingered about and + finally had to be led down the slope. On being loosed again, several + rushed back to the Cave and were only brought along by force. That night, + Scott and Franklin, two kindred spirits, were not present at "roll-call". + </p> + <p> + On September 3, McLean, Whetter and Close took more provisions to + Aladdin's Cave. They reported light drift and wind on the highlands, while + at sea-level it was clear and calm. + </p> + <p> + The sea-ice was by then thick and safe. About half a mile off shore a very + successful dredging was made in fifty fathoms; the bottom at this depth + simply teemed with life. At first, the dredge, rope-coils, tub, picks and + other necessary implements were dragged about on a sledge, but the sledge + was hauled only with great difficulty and much exertion over the sticky, + new sea-ice. As a substitute a portable, steel handcart was advantageously + employed, although, owing to its weight, tide-cracks and rotten areas had + to be crossed at a run. On one occasion a flimsy surface collapsed under + it, and Hunter had a wetting before it was hauled on to firmer ice. + </p> + <p> + On September 4 there was a cloud radiant from the northwest, indicative of + a change in the weather. Ninnis, Mertz and Murphy transported more + food-bags and kerosene to Aladdin's Cave. They found Franklin one and a + half miles south of the Hut lying on the ice quite well, but there was no + sign of Scott. Both dogs were seen on the 1st of the month, when they were + in a locality south-east of the Hut, where crevasses were numerous. It + seemed most probable that Scott had lost his life in one of them. The + party visiting the Cave reported a considerable amount of snow drifting + above a level of one thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + There was another day of successful dredging, and, about four o'clock, + while several men were still out on the ice, whirlies with great columns + of drift came steadily down the glacier, pouring over the seaward cliffs. + In a few minutes the snow-clouds were round the Hut and the wind was not + long in working up to eighty miles per hour. The dredging party reached + the land just in time; and the sea-ice drifted away to the north. Thus + ended one of the most remarkable periods of fine weather experienced by us + in Adelie Land, only to be excelled in the height of summer. + </p> + <p> + The possibility of such a spell being repeated fired us with the hope that + after all a reasonable amount of sledging could be accomplished in the + spring. Three parties were chosen to reconnoitre in different directions + and to test the sledging gear. As we were far from being confident in the + weather, I made it clear that no party should penetrate farther than fifty + miles from the Hut, nor remain away longer than a fortnight. + </p> + <p> + Webb, McLean and Stillwell, the southern reconnoitring party, were the + first to set off, leaving on September 7 against a wind of fifty-six miles + per hour. Between them they had only one pair of good spiked crampons, and + it was a hard, five hours' drag up to Aladdin's Cave. A tent which had + been spread over the entrance to keep out snow was picked up here. It had + suffered punctures and small tears from crampons, and, as the next day was + one of boisterous wind, the party spent it repairing the tent and + endeavouring to take magnetic observations. The latter had to be abandoned + owing to the instrument becoming iced up. + </p> + <p> + Next afternoon the wind fell to the forties, and the party struggled on to + the south for three miles two hundred yards and camped, as it was + necessary to make a search for a small depot of pemmican tins, a pick and + a shovel left by us in the vicinity in August. The drift cleared at noon + on the 11th, and the bamboo pole marking the depot appeared a quarter of a + mile away on the right. The pick, shovel and flag were secured and another + afternoon's march against a fifty-mile wind with a temperature at -20 + degrees F. brought the party three and a quarter miles further, to a point + eleven and three-quarter miles south of the Hut. The wind rose to the + eighties during the night, and there were many small holes in the tent + which provided more ventilation than was agreeable. As the wind was too + strong for travelling on the 12th, it was decided to make a cave in case + of accident to the tent. + </p> + <p> + A tunnel was driven into the sloping surface of the ice towards a crevasse + about a foot wide. It was a good ten hours' job in tough ice before the + crevasse was reached. Into the fissure all the hewn ice was thrown instead + of being laboriously shovelled up through the tunnel. The "Cathedral + Grotto" was soon finished, the tent was struck and the party made + themselves comfortable inside. The cavern was found to be a very draughty + place with a crevasse along one wall, and it was difficult to keep warm in + one-man sleeping-bags. The crevasse was accordingly closed with ice and + snow. That evening and on several subsequent occasions McLean took + blood-pressure observations. + </p> + <p> + During the next three days the wind was so strong that Webb's were the + only crampons in which any efficient marching could be done. The time was + spent in building a high break-wind of ice-blocks, a pit being excavated + on the windward side in which Webb took a full set of magnetic + observations. Within the "Grotto" the instrument rapidly became coated + with ice-crystals; in the open air this difficulty did not arise, but + others had to be overcome. It was exceedingly cold work at -20 degrees F. + in a sixty-mile wind, both for Webb and his recorder Stillwell. + </p> + <p> + There seemed no hope of going forward, so the depot flag was hoisted and a + fortnight's provisions and kerosene stowed in the lee of the break-wind. + It was a furious race back to the Hut via Aladdin's Cave with a gusty, + seventy-five-mile wind in the rear. McLean and Stillwell actually skied + along on their short blunt crampons, while Webb did his best to brake + behind. + </p> + <p> + The second party comprised Ninnis, Mertz, and Murphy, who went to the + south-east, leaving on September 11. After a hard fight to Aladdin's Cave, + the wind approaching fifty miles an hour, they diverged to the south-east. + On the 12th they made steady progress up the slope of the glacier, delayed + by many small crevasses. The surface was so rough that the nuts on the + sledge-meter soon became loose and it was necessary to stop every quarter + of a mile to adjust them. The day's march was a solid five and three + quarter miles against a fifty-mile wind. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th Ninnis's record proceeds as follows: + </p> + <p> + "The sky was still clear but the wind had increased to sixty-five miles + per hour, the temperature standing at -17 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + "We kept on the same course; the glacier's slope being steeper. Mertz was + as usual wearing leather boots and mountaineering crampons, otherwise + progress would have been practically impossible; the finnesko crampons + worn by Murphy and myself giving very little foothold. Travelling was very + slow indeed, and when we camped at 4 P.M., two and a half miles was all + that had been covered. + </p> + <p> + "At 9.15 A.M. (September 14) the wind practically dropped, and we advanced + under perfect conditions." + </p> + <p> + They had not gone far, however, before the wind suddenly increased so that + only about four and a half miles were completed in the day. That evening, + curiously enough, it fell calm for a time; then there was a period of + alternating violent winds and calm. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, September 15, it was impossible for them to move, as a + hurricane raged outside. The tent was very much damaged by the wind, but + in that state it managed to stand up till next morning. In the meantime + all three fully dressed themselves and lay in their three-man sleeping-bag + ready to take to the road at a moment's notice. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, at a distance of eighteen miles southeast of the Hut, + there was nothing for it but to make for Aladdin's Cave, which was safely + reached by a forced march of twelve and three-quarter miles, with a + furious wind partly abeam. On the way the sledge was blown sideways on to + the lids of many wide crevasses, which, fortunately for the party, were + strong at that season of the year. + </p> + <p> + From the realistic reports of the two parties which had returned it was + evident that Madigan and his companions, Close and Whetter who had set out + on the 12th to the west were having a bad time. But it was not till the + 23rd, after a week of clear skies, low temperatures and unceasing + drift-free wind that we began to feel apprehensive about them. + </p> + <p> + September 24 and 25 were punctuated by several intervals of calm during + which it was judged the party would have been able to travel. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of September 26 Ninnis and Mertz, with a team of dogs, set + off up the hill to Aladdin's Cave to deposit some provisions and to scan + the horizon for any sign of the sledgers. On the way they fell in with + them descending the slopes, very worn and frost-bitten. + </p> + <p> + They had a thrilling story to tell, and, when it was known that the party + had reached fifty miles to the west, everybody crowded round to listen. + </p> + <p> + The wind average at the Hut during their fortnight of absence was + fifty-eight miles per hour, implying worse conditions on the plateau. + Madigan gave the facts: + </p> + <p> + "After leaving Aladdin's Cave on the 12th we continued due south, lunching + at 2 P.M. on the site of Webb's first camp. Our troubles had already + begun; the wind averaging sixty miles an hour all day with a temperature + at noon of -14 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + "As a few tears appeared in the tent during the night, we saw that it + would not be advisable to put it up next day for lunch, so we had a cold + meal, crouched in the lee of the sledge. This custom was found to + economize time, as we became so cold eating our fare of biscuit, chocolate + and butter that we got moving again as soon as possible. The great + disadvantage was that there was nothing to drink between the morning and + evening meals. + </p> + <p> + "We sewed up the rents in the tent during the halt, having to use bare + fingers in the open. About four stitches at a time were as much as one man + could manage, and then the other two took their turns. + </p> + <p> + "The next day was the only comparatively calm period of the two weeks of + travelling. The wind was in the vicinity of thirty miles per hour, and, + going west, we reached a spot, twenty miles 'out,' on a snow-covered + surface, by nightfall. + </p> + <p> + "A steady seventy-five-mile wind blew all day on the 15th at right angles + to our course, accompanied by a thick, low drift. The surface was + partially consolidated snow, very hard and smooth. Sometimes the sledge + would grip and we could pull straight ahead. Then, suddenly, it would + slide away sideways down wind and often pull us off our feet with a sudden + vicious jerk. Most of the time we were dragging in a south-westerly + direction to make the sledge run west, stumbling through the drift with + the sledge now behind us, now sliding away to leeward, often capsizing and + requiring to be laboriously righted and sometimes repacked. + </p> + <p> + "After many experiments, we found the best device was to have two men on + the bow-rope, about twenty feet long, and one with about ten feet of rope + attached to the rear of the sledge. The man on the tail-rope, usually + Whetter, found it very difficult to keep his feet, and, after a score of + falls in stinging drift with incidental frost-bites on fingers and cheeks, + he did not feel exactly cheerful. + </p> + <p> + "By 4 P.M. on the 15th we had reached twenty-five miles and were + exhausted. We pitched camp at an early hour, partly influenced by the fact + that it was a special occasion—Close's birthday! Some port wine had + been slipped in to provide against that 'emergency.' On taking the + precious bottle from the instrument-box, I found that the cork was out, + and, for one awful moment, thought the bottle was empty. Then I realized + that the wine had frozen solid and had pushed the cork out by its + expansion on solidification. + </p> + <p> + "At last, the tent safely pitched and hoosh and cocoa finished, the moment + came to drink to Close's health and happiness. The bottle had stood on the + top of the cooker while the meal was being prepared, but the wine was + still as solid as ever. After being shaken and held over the primus for a + good half-hour it began to issue in lumps. Once the lumps were secured in + mugs the rest of the thawing was easy. Finally, we toasted Close and his + wife (in far Australia) in what we voted to be the finest draught it had + ever been our good fortune to drink. In the morning a cairn was made of + the snow-blocks which were taken from the tent-skirt, and it was + surmounted with the bottle, being called 'Birthday Camp.' + </p> + <p> + "During September 16 my right eyelid became frostbitten. I noticed that it + was hard and refused to shut, so I rubbed vigorously to bring it round. + However, it swelled and blistered badly and the eye remained closed for + two days. + </p> + <p> + "From twenty to fifty miles 'out', the surface was neve with areas of + sastrugi up to three feet in height. No crevasses were noticed. At + twenty-eight miles out, we lost sight of the sea, and at forty miles an + altitude of four thousand five hundred feet was reached. + </p> + <p> + "We turned out at 6 A.M. every morning and were on the move by 9 A.M. + Lunch only took half an hour and was a most uncomfortable meal. As we sat + in the lee of the sledge, the surface-drift swirled up in our faces like + fine sand. We never camped before 6 P.M. and were obliged to consider five + miles a good day's run. + </p> + <p> + "Pitching camp took nearly an hour. Blocks of snow were cut and arranged + in a semicircle, within which the tent was laid with its peak upwind. It + sounds simple enough, but, as we had to take off crampons so as not to + tread on the tent, our difficulties were enormously increased by having to + move about wearing finnesko on a smooth surface in a high wind. One man + crawled into the tent, and, at a given signal, the other two raised the + peak while the former held on to the upwind leg and kicked the other legs + into place with his feet. The others then quickly piled food-tanks and + blocks of snow on to the skirt, calling out as soon as there was enough to + hold it down, as the man gripping the bamboo leg inside would soon have + 'deadly cold' fingers. It was always a great relief when the tent was up. + </p> + <p> + "Almost every night there was some sewing to do, and it was not long + before every one's fingers were in a bad state. They became, especially + near the tips, as hard as wood and devoid of sensation. Manipulating + toggles and buttons on one's clothing gave an immense amount of trouble, + and it always seemed an interminable time before we got away in the + morning. Our lowest temperature was -35 degrees F., early on September 18. + </p> + <p> + "We were fifty miles 'out' on September 19 on a white, featureless plain. + Through low drift we had seen very little of our surroundings on the + march. A bamboo pole with a black flag was raised, a mound was built, and + a week's provisions for three men and two gallons of kerosene were cached. + </p> + <p> + "In the morning there was a howling eighty-mile blizzard with dense drift, + and our hopes of an early start homeward were dispelled. We feared for the + safety of the tent, knowing that if it had gone during that 'blow' our + hopes of getting back to the Hut would have been small. + </p> + <p> + "The wind continued all day and the next night, but, to our joy, abated on + the 21st to fifty miles an hour, permitting us to travel. + </p> + <p> + "Through a seventy-five-miler on the 22nd and a quieter day on the 23rd, + we picked up our half-way mound at Birthday Camp on September 24. On the + same night the long-suffering sledge-meter, much battered, gave up + recording. + </p> + <p> + "At 3 A.M. I was awakened by something striking me on the head. I looked + out of the sleeping-bag and found that the tent had fallen in on us. The + lashing at the apex had carried away and the poles upwind were almost + flat. The cap was gone, and one side of the tent was split from top to + bottom. I awakened the others, and Whetter and I got out, leaving Close + inside to hang on to the bag. Luckily we had kept on our burberrys in case + of accidents. For once the entrance had not to be unfastened, as there was + a ready-made exit. The poles were roughly bound together with an alpine + rope and anchored to a pick on the windward side. It was blowing about + eighty miles an hour, but fortunately there was no drift. When daylight + came the tent was found to be hopelessly ruined, and to light the primus + was impossible, though the wind had abated to thirty-five miles an hour. + </p> + <p> + "We ate some frozen food and pushed on, hoping to find Aladdin's Cave + before dark, so that we should not have to spend a night without a tent. + After a struggle of thirteen miles over rough ice we came, footsore and + worn out, to Aladdin's Cave. Close's feet were badly blistered, and both + my big toes had become frost-bitten at the fifty-mile camp, giving me a + good deal of trouble on the way back. + </p> + <p> + "Never was the Cave a more luxurious place. The cooker was kept busy far + into the night, while we drank and smoked and felt happy." + </p> + <p> + The successful conclusion of this journey in the face of the most adverse + weather conditions was something upon which Madigan, Whetter and Close + could well feel proud, for in its way it must be a record in the sledging + world. They were indeed badly frost-bitten; Madigan's great toes having + suffered most of all. Whetter's chief injury was a wound under the chin + occasioned by a pair of scissors handled by Madigan to free Whetter's + helmet on an occasion when it was firmly frozen to his face. + </p> + <p> + On October 1, Mertz, Hurley and Ninnis made a gallant attempt to rescue + two dogs, Basilisk and Franklin, which had remained at Aladdin's Cave on + September 26, after accompanying them there with a load of provisions. At + the Hut there was no drift, but during the ascent it became thicker, and + the wind stronger, forcing them at last to turn back. + </p> + <p> + Two days later another attempt was made by Ninnis and Mertz, and, in dense + drift, after wandering about for a long time they happened on the Cave, to + find that the dogs were not there, though spots were discovered where they + had evidently been sleeping in the snow. Coming back disconsolately, they + found that the dogs had reached the Hut not long before them. Apparently + the two vagrants, hearing Ninnis and Mertz blundering about in the drift + in search of the depot, had decided that it was time to return home. We + concluded that the ways of these Greenland dogs were past finding out. + </p> + <p> + October came with a deluge of snow and transient hours of bright sunlight, + during which the seals would make a temporary landing and retire again to + the water when their endurance was exhausted. Snow petrels flew in great + numbers about the rocks in the evening, seeking out their old + nest-crevices. Seeing these signs of returning life, every one was in + great expectation of the arrival of the penguins. + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 11th, Hurley, Laseron, Hunter and Correll made an + innovation by presenting a small farce to an audience which had been + starved of dramatic entertainment for a long time, and consequently showed + tremendous appreciation. + </p> + <p> + The first penguin came waddling up the ice-foot against a seventy-mile + wind late on the afternoon of October 12. McLean brought the bird back to + the Hut and the newcomer received a great ovation. Stimulated by their + success on the previous night and the appearance of the first penguin, the + theatrical company added to their number, and, dispensing with a + rehearsal, produced an opera, "The Washerwoman's Secret" (Laseron). Part + of the Hut was curtained off as a combined green-room and dressing-room; + the kitchen was the stage; footlights twinkled on the floor; the acetylene + limelight beamed down from the rafters, while the audience crowded on a + form behind the dining-table, making tactless remarks and steadily eating + chocolate. + </p> + <p> + The typed programmes advertised the following: + </p> + <p> + THE WASHERWOMAN'S SECRET + </p> + <p> + (Opera in Five Acts) + </p> + <p> + DRAMATIS PERSONAE + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + DR. STAKANHOISER (Tenor) "Hoyle" Hurley + CHEVALIER DE TINTAIL (Fiver) "Johnny" Hunter + BARON DE BRENT (Basso) "Joe" Laseron + COUNT HOOPENKOFF (Barrowtone) "Little Willie" Correll + MADAM FUCLOSE (Don't Sing) "Also Joe" Laseron + JEMIMA FUCLOSE (Soprano) "Dad" McLean + DR. STAKANHOISER'S Dog " Monkey" Greenland Pup + VILLAGE IDIOT "Bick" Bickerton + ORCHESTRA "Stillwater Willie" StillWell +</pre> + <p> + ACT I + </p> + <p> + SCENE: Room in poorer part of Berlin: MADAM FUCLOSE in bed dying: JEMIMA + at table washing clothes + </p> + <p> + Song "When Sparrows Build" JEMIMA + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [Knock at door. Enter Dr. STAKANHOISER. +</pre> + <p> + Song: "I vas a Doctor" + </p> + <p> + [Attends MADAM FUCLOSE, who, when dying, tells him that JEMIMA is not her + daughter, but the Princess of Adeliana, whom she has rescued in Paris + during the Revolution. + </p> + <p> + Death Scene and Chorus: "Who Killed my Mother?" + </p> + <p> + ACT II + </p> + <p> + SCENE: Beneath JEMIMA'S window + </p> + <p> + [Enter Dr. STAKANHOISER disguised as organ grinder. + </p> + <p> + Song: "Vurds der Likum" Dr. S. + </p> + <p> + [JEMIMA opens window and throws flour on DOCTOR. + </p> + <p> + [Enter BARON DE BRENT, kicks DOCTOR out. + </p> + <p> + Song: "Baron of Brent" + </p> + <p> + [BARON makes love to JEMIMA, who laughs at him. + </p> + <p> + Duet: "Wilt love me" JEMIMA and BARON + </p> + <p> + [Enter CHEVALIER DE TINTAIL, who denounces the BARON as already having + four wives. The BARON goes off, muttering revenge. + </p> + <p> + Song: "I'm in love with a wonderful lady" CHEVALIER + </p> + <p> + [The CHEVALIER makes love to JEMIMA, who loves him in return. + </p> + <p> + Chorus: "Jemima" + </p> + <p> + ACT III + </p> + <p> + SCENE: Conspirators' Chamber + </p> + <p> + [Enter DOCTOR, who hides behind a barrel. + </p> + <p> + [Enter COUNT HOOPENKOFF, who amuses himself playing a piccolo. + </p> + <p> + [Enter BARON. They discuss plot to kidnap Princess, which is overheard by + DOCTOR. + </p> + <p> + [Enter Ghost, who frightens conspirators away. + </p> + <p> + Chorus: "Little Willie Smith" + </p> + <p> + ACT IV + </p> + <p> + SCENE: JEMIMA's room + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [The CHEVALIER DE TINTAIL is waiting. +</pre> + <p> + Song: "I want you to see my Girl" CHEVALIER + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [Enter JEMIMA. Love scene. +</pre> + <p> + [Enter DOCTOR, who discloses the plot he has heard and tells JEMIMA of her + high descent. The CHEVALIER and the DOCTOR hide, and the two villains, by + means of a ladder, enter the room. The heroes spring from their + hiding-place and the villains are ejected. + </p> + <p> + Chorus: "There is a Wash-House" + </p> + <p> + ACT V + </p> + <p> + SCENE: Conspirators' Chamber + </p> + <p> + [The BARON and COUNT enter by different doors. They accuse each other of + having betrayed the plot. Duel follows in which both are killed. + </p> + <p> + Duet: "Mort de Botheo" COUNT and BARON + </p> + <p> + [All the others rush in. The two lovers come together and the DOCTOR says, + "God bless you, my children." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Chorus: "Auld Lang Syne" COMPANY and AUDIENCE + And + GOD SAVE THE KING +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Played by the Society for the Prevention of the Blues. + Saturday, October 12, 1912. + ADELIE HALL +</pre> + <p> + Admission Free. Children Half Price. + </p> + <p> + October 13 was known as Black Sunday. We were all seated at dinner and the + Hut was quivering in the tornado-like gusts which followed a heavy "blow" + reaching a maximum hourly average of ninety-one miles. One mighty blast + was followed by a crack and the sound of a heavy falling body. For a + moment it was thought that something had happened to the Hut. Then the + messman ran out to the trap-door and saw that the northern wireless mast + had disappeared. + </p> + <p> + The weather showed but meagre signs of improvement, but the penguins came + up in great numbers. They were in groups all along the ice-foot in the lee + of rocks and icy pinnacles. They climbed up to their old resorts, and in a + few days commenced to build nests of small pebbles. Skua gulls + mysteriously appeared, snow petrels hovered along the rocky ridges and odd + seals landed on the wind-raked harbour ice. Silver-grey and Antarctic + petrels flew along the shore with occasional Cape pigeons. If the weather + were indifferent to the fact, the birds did not forget that spring had + come. + </p> + <p> + A Weddell seal calved on the bay-ice on October 18. For a week the pup had + a miserable time in winds ranging mostly about the seventies, with the + temperature below zero Fahrenheit. At last it became so weak that it + thawed a hole in the soft, sludgy ice and could not extricate itself. Both + it and the mother were killed and skinned for the biological collection. + </p> + <p> + On all but the worst days a gang of men worked with picks and shovels + digging out the Hangar, so that Bickerton could test the air-tractor + sledge. The attack was concentrated upon a solid bank of snow and ice into + which heaps of tins and rubbish had been compactly frozen. In soft snow + enormous headway can be made in a short space of time, but in that species + of conglomerate, progress is slow. Eventually, a cutting was made by which + the machine could pass out. The rampart of snow was broken through at the + northern end of the Hangar, and the sledge with its long curved runners + was hauled forth triumphantly on the 25th. From that time onwards + Bickerton continued to experiment and to improve the contrivance. + </p> + <p> + On October 21 there was a marked thaw inside the Hut. The frost along all + the cracks dissolved into water and ran down the walls over pictures, on + to book-shelves and bunks. The thick caking of ice on the windows dripped + continually, coming away in layers at lunch-time and scattering among the + diners at both ends of the table. Every available bucket and tub was in + use, and small tin-gutters hooked under each window had to be emptied at + frequent intervals. + </p> + <p> + Stillwell came in during the afternoon bearing an albino penguin with a + prettily mottled head; a curious freak of which the biologists immediately + took possession. The penguins now swarmed along the foreshores, those not + settling down in the rookeries wandering about in small crowds, + occasionally visiting the Hut and exploring among the rocks or up the + slippery glacier. Murphy was heard, at this time, to advance a theory + accounting for the fact that Adelie penguins never made their nests on a + scale more elaborate than a collection of stones. He submitted that + anything else would be blown away. To support the contention, he stated + that as soon as the female lays her egg, she places a stone on top to + weight it down. The biologists kept a dignified silence during the + discussion. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st an Emperor penguin landed on the harbour ice, and, early in + November, two more were captured. These imperial birds are very rare on + the coasts of Adelie Land, owing to the fact that their winter + breeding-grounds in Antarctica are selected in spots where climatic + conditions are comparatively good. + </p> + <p> + October closed with an average wind velocity of 56.9 miles per hour. Yet + the possibility of summer sledging was no longer remote. The sun was high, + spells of calm were longer and more frequent, and, with the certain + knowledge that we should be on the plateau in November, the sledging + parties were chosen, schemes of exploration were discussed, and the last + details for an extensive campaign completed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII ACROSS KING GEORGE V LAND + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We yearned beyond the skyline.—Kipling +</pre> + <p> + October had passed without offering any opportunities for sledging, and we + resolved that in defiance of all but the worst weather a start would be + made in November. The 'Aurora' was due to arrive early in January 1913 and + the time at our disposal for exploration was slipping away rapidly. + </p> + <p> + The investigation by sledging journeys of the coastline to the eastward + was regarded as of prime importance, for our experience in the 'Aurora' + when in those longitudes during the previous year was such as to give + little promise of its ever being accomplished from the sea. + </p> + <p> + Westward, the coast was accessible from the sea; at least for some + distance in that direction. Madigan's journey in the springtime had + demonstrated that, if anything, the land to the west was steeper, and + consequently more windy conditions might be expected there. Further, it + was judged that information concerning this region would be forthcoming + from the ship, which had cruised westward after leaving Adelie Land in + January 1912. The field in that direction was therefore not so promising + as that to the east. + </p> + <p> + On this account the air-tractor sledge, of somewhat doubtful utility, was + detailed for use to the westward of Winter Quarters, and, as it was + obvious that the engine could only be operated in moderately good weather, + its final departure was postponed until December. + </p> + <p> + The following is a list of the parties which had been arranged and which, + now fully equipped, were on the tiptoe of expectation to depart. + </p> + <p> + (1) A Southern Party composed of Bage (leader), Webb and Hurley. The + special feature of their work was to be magnetic observations in the + vicinity of the South Magnetic Pole. + </p> + <p> + (2) A Southern Supporting Party, including Murphy (leader), Hunter and + Laseron, who were to accompany the Southern Party as far as possible, + returning to Winter Quarters by the end of November. + </p> + <p> + (3) A Western Party of three men—Bickerton (leader), Hodgeman and + Whetter—who were to traverse the coastal highlands west of the Hut. + Their intention was to make use of the air-tractor sledge and the + departure of the party was fixed for early December. + </p> + <p> + (4) Stillwell, in charge of a Near Eastern Party, was to map the coastline + between Cape Denison and the Mertz Glacier-Tongue, dividing the work into + two stages. In the first instance, Close and Hodgeman were to assist him; + all three acting partly as supports to the other eastern parties working + further afield. After returning to the Hut at the end of November for a + further supply of stores, he was to set out again with Close and Laseron + in order to complete the work. + </p> + <p> + (5) An Eastern Coastal Party composed of Madigan (leader), McLean and + Correll was to start in early November with the object of investigating + the coastline beyond the Mertz Glacier. + </p> + <p> + (6) Finally, a Far-Eastern Party, assisted by the dogs, was to push out + rapidly overland to the southward of Madigan's party, mapping more distant + sections of the coastline, beyond the limit to which the latter party + would be likely to reach. + </p> + <p> + As the plans for the execution of such a journey had of necessity to be + more provisional than in the case of the others, I determined to undertake + it, accompanied by Ninnis and Mertz, both of whom had so ably acquitted + themselves throughout the Expedition and, moreover, had always been in + charge of the dogs. + </p> + <p> + November opened with more moderate weather, auguring still better + conditions for midsummer. Accordingly November 6 was fixed as the date of + final departure for several of the parties. The evening of November 5 was + made a special occasion: a farewell dinner, into which everybody entered + very heartily. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 6th, however, we found a strong blizzard raging and + the landscape blotted out by drift-snow, which did not clear until the + afternoon of the following day. + </p> + <p> + At the first opportunity, Murphy, Hunter and Laseron (supporting the + Southern Party) got away, but found the wind so strong at a level of one + thousand feet on the glacier that they anchored their sledge and returned + to the Hut for the night. + </p> + <p> + The next morning saw them off finally and, later in the day, the + Near-Eastern Party (Stillwell, Close and Hodgeman) and the Eastern Coastal + Party (Madigan, McLean and Correll) got under way, though there was still + considerable wind. + </p> + <p> + My own party was to leave on the 9th for, assisted by the dogs, we could + easily catch up to the other eastern parties, and it was our intention not + to part company with them until all were some distance out on the road + together. + </p> + <p> + The wind increased on the 9th and the air became charged with drift, so we + felt sure that those who preceded us would still be camped at Aladdin's + Cave, and that the best course was to wait. + </p> + <p> + At this date the penguin rookeries were full of new-laid eggs, and the + popular taste inclined towards omelettes, in the production of which Mertz + was a past master. I can recall the clamouring throng who pressed round + for the final omelette as Mertz officiated at the stove just before we + left on the 10th. + </p> + <p> + It was a beautiful calm afternoon as the sledge mounted up the long icy + slopes. The Southern Party (Bage, Webb and Hurley) were a short distance + in advance, but by the help of the dogs we were soon abreast of them. Then + Bickerton, who had given Bage's party a pull as far as the three-mile + post, bade us good-bye and returned to the Hut where he was to remain in + charge with Whetter and Hannam until the return of Murphy's party. + </p> + <p> + At Aladdin's Cave, while some prepared supper, others selected tanks of + food from the depot and packed the sledges. After the meal, the Southern + Party bade us farewell and set off at a rapid rate, intending to overhaul + their supporting party on the same evening at the Cathedral Grotto, eleven + and three-quarter miles from the Hut. Many finishing touches had to be put + to our three sledges and two teams of dogs, so that the departure was + delayed till next morning. + </p> + <p> + We were up betimes and a good start was made before anything came of the + overcast sky which had formed during the night. The rendezvous appointed + for meeting the others, in case we had not previously caught them up, was + eighteen miles south-east of Aladdin's Cave. But, with a view to avoiding + crevasses as much as possible, a southerly course was followed for several + miles, after which it was directed well to the east. In the meantime the + wind had arisen and snow commenced to fall soon after noon. In such + weather it was impossible to locate the other parties, so a halt was made + and the tent pitched after eight miles. + </p> + <p> + Five days of wind and drift followed, and for the next two days we + remained in camp. Then, on the afternoon of the 13th, the drift became + less dense, enabling us to move forward on an approximate course to what + was judged to be the vicinity of the rendezvous, where we camped again for + three days. + </p> + <p> + Comfortably ensconced in the sleeping-bags, we ate only a small ration of + food; the savings being carefully put away for a future "rainy day." + Outside, the dogs had at first an unpleasant time until they were buried + in snow which sheltered them from the stinging wind. Ninnis and Mertz took + turns day by day attending to their needs. + </p> + <p> + The monotony and disappointment of delay were just becoming acute when the + wind fell off, and the afternoon of November 16 turned out gloriously + fine. + </p> + <p> + Several excursions were immediately made in the neighbourhood to seek for + the whereabouts of the other parties, but all were unsuccessful. At length + it occurred to us that something serious might have happened, so we left + our loads and started back at a gallop for Aladdin's Cave with two empty + sledges, Mertz careering ahead on skis over the sastrugi field. + </p> + <p> + Shortly afterwards two black specks were seen away in the north; a glance + with the binoculars leaving no doubt as to the identity of the parties. We + returned to the loads, and, having picked them up, made a course to the + east to intercept the other men. + </p> + <p> + It was a happy camp that evening!with the three tents pitched together, + while we compared our experiences of the previous six days and made plans + for the outward journey. + </p> + <p> + Our sledge-meter had already suffered through bumping over rough ice and + sastrugi, and an exchange was made with the stronger one on Stillwell's + sledge. A quantity of food was also taken over from him and the loads were + finally adjusted. + </p> + <p> + The details and weights of the equipment on the three sledges belonging to + my party are sufficiently interesting to be set out at length below. Most + of the items were included in the impedimenta of all our parties, but + slight variations were necessary to meet particular stances or to satisfy + the whim of an individual. + </p> + <p> + TOTAL LOAD + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Principal Sledge, 11ft. long, 45 lb. + + Fittings for Same: Instrument-box 7 lb. 5 oz.; cooker-box, 7 lb. + 6 oz.; kerosene-tray, 3 lb.; mast-attachment, 2 lb. 8 oz.; mast, 1 lb. + 16 oz.; spar, 1 lb. 8 oz.; decking (canvas and bamboo), 3 lb. 5 oz.; + rigging, 7.5 oz.; 5 leather straps, 5 lb..... 77 lb. 6.5 oz. + + Drill Tent, strengthened and attached to poles, also floor-cloth, + 33 lb. Spare drill cover, 11 lb. 8 oz........ 44 lb. 8 oz. + + Sleeping-bags, 3 one-man bags............ 30 lb. 0 oz. + + Cooking gear: Nansen cooker, 11 lb. 3 oz.; 3 mugs, 1 lb. 8 oz., 2 tins, + 10 oz.; scales, 0.5 oz.; 3 spoons, 1.5 oz.; matches, 13.5 oz., and + damp-proof tin to hold same, 3.7 oz.; "Primus" heater, full, 3 lb. + 10 oz.; "Primus" prickers, 2.5 oz.; "Primus" repair outfit, 2 oz.; + kerosene tin openers and pourers, 4.5 oz.; spirit for "Primus" in + tin, 5 lb. 14 oz., also a ready bottle, full, 1 lb. 5 oz. +........................... 25 lb. 14.2 oz. + + Repair Outfit: Spare copper wire, rivets, needles, thread, etc., + 1 lb. 14.5 oz.; set of 12 tools, 15.5 oz.; requirements for repairing + dog-harness and medically treating the dogs, 3 lb. 8 oz +........................ 6 lb. 6 oz. + + Medical Outfit: 6 "Burroughs & Wellcome" first field dressings; + absorbent cotton wool; boric wool; pleated lint; pleated bandages, + roll bandages; adhesive tape; liquid collodion; "tabloid" ophthalmic + drugs for treating snow-blindness; an assortment of "tabloid" drugs + for general treatment; canvas case containing scissors, forceps, + artery-forceps, scalpel, surgical needles and silk, etc. +........................... 2 lb. 12.3 oz. Photographic outfit: + A 1/4-plate, long, extension-camera in a case, + with special stiffening board and 36 cut films, 4 lb. 4.5 oz.; + adaptor to accommodate camera to theodolite legs, 2 oz.; a water-tight + tin with 14 packets, each containing 12 cut films, 3 lb.10 oz. +............................8 lb. 0.5 oz. + + Surveying Requirements: A 3" transit theodolite in case, 5 lb. 14 oz.; + legs for the same, 3 lb. 6 oz.; sledge-meter, 8 lb.; Tables from + Nautical Almanack and book of Logarithmic Tables, 1 lb. 3 oz.; + 2 note books, 1 lb. 6 oz.; angle-books, 5 oz.; map-tube, 10 oz.; + maps, 6.5 oz.; pencils, 1.5 oz.; dividers and rubber, 1.5 oz.; + protractor and set-square, 0.5 oz.; prismatic compass and clinometer, + 8.5 oz.; sun-compass (Bage's), 1.5 oz......... 22 lb. 0 oz. + + Other Instruments: Zeiss prismatic binoculars X.12, 1 lb. 13.5 oz.; + hypsometer, 2 lb. 1 oz.; 2 ordinary and 2 small minimum thermometers, + 10 oz.; specimen labels, l oz............. 4 lb. 9.5 oz. + + Rifle, 22-bore with cover and cleaner, 3 lb. 3.7 oz.; ammunition, + 1 lb. 6 oz.; sheath knife, 5.5 oz.; sharpening stone, 1.5 oz.; + fishing line and hooks, 3.5 oz............. 4 lb. 14.7 oz. + + Waterproof Clothe-bag, 4 lb. 8 oz., containing 9 pairs of finnesko + stuffed with saennegrass, 21 lb.; extra saennegrass, 3 lb.; 3 private + kit-bags containing spare clothing, etc., 39 lb.; 4 extra rolls of + lampwick for lashings, 1 lb. 3.5 oz.......... 64 lb. 3.5 oz. + + Odd gear: Pick, 4 lb. 5 oz.; 2 spades, 8 lb. 4 oz.; ice-axe, 2 lb. + 4 oz.; alpine rope (20 metros) 3 lb.; skis (1 pair), 11 lb.; + ski-stick, 1 lb. 1 oz.; ski-boots (2 pairs), 6 lb.; attachable + crampons for the same, 4 lb.; finnesko-crampons (3 pairs), 9 lb.; + 3 man-harnesses, 6 lb. 8 oz.; man-hauling tow-rope, 1 lb. 1 oz.; + flags, 9.5 oz.; a water-proof bag to hold oddments, 4 lb. 8 oz. +............................ 61 lb. 8.5 oz. + + Beacons: A depot-flag and bamboo pole, 5 lb.; a special metal + depot-beacon, mast, flag and stays, 16 lb.; 2 damp-proof tins for + depositing records at depots, 7.5 oz.......... 21 lb. 7.5 oz. + + Other Sledges: A second sledge decked with Venesta boarding and + fitted with straps.................. 55 lb. 0 oz. + A third sledge, 12 ft. long and strong rope lashings (spare spars + mentioned elsewhere acting as decking)........ 60 lb. 0 oz. + + Fuel: Kerosene, 6 gallons in one-gallon tins..... 60 lb. 0 oz. + + Food: Man Food: 9 weeks' supplies for 3 men on the ration scale; + also 25 lb. weight of special foods—'perks'..... 475 lb. 0 oz. + + Dog Food: Dried seal meat, blubber and pemmican; also the weight of + the tin and bag-containers.............. 700 lb. 0 oz. + + Total........................ 1723 lb. 11.3 oz. +</pre> + <p> + Madigan's and Stillwell's parties broke trail to the east on the morning + of the 17th while we were still attending to the sledges and dogs + preparatory to departure. It was decided that Gadget, a rather miserable + animal, who had shown herself useless as a puller thus far, should be + killed. The following dogs then remained:—Basilisk, Shackleton, + Ginger Bitch, Franklin, John Bull, Mary, Haldane, Pavlova, Fusilier, + Jappy, Ginger, George, Johnson, Castor, Betli and Blizzard. + </p> + <p> + We went in pursuit of the other six men over a surface of rough sastrugi. + The dogs, who were in fine fettle, rushed the sledges along, making + frantic efforts to catch up to the parties ahead, who showed as black + specks across the white undulating plain. + </p> + <p> + At noon all lunched together, after which we separated, shaking hands + warmly all round and interchanging the sledgers' "Good luck!" Our dogs + drew away rapidly to the east, travelling on a slight down grade; the + other two parties with their man-hauled sledges following in the same + direction. The surface was splendid, the weather conditions were ideal, + the pace, if anything, too rapid, for capsizes were apt to occur in racing + over high sastrugi. Any doubts as to the capability of the dogs to pull + the loads were dispelled; in fact, on this and on many subsequent + occasions, two of us were able to sit, each one on a sledge, while the + third broke trail ahead. + </p> + <p> + In sledging over wide, monotonous wastes with dogs as the motive power, it + is necessary to have a forerunner, that is, somebody to go ahead and point + the way, otherwise the dogs will run aimlessly about. Returning over old + tracks, they will pull along steadily and keep a course. In Adelie Land we + had no opportunity of verifying this, as the continuous winds soon + obliterated the impression of the runners. + </p> + <p> + If the weather is reasonably good and food is ample, sledging dogs enjoy + their work. Their desire to pull is doubtless inborn, implanted in a long + line of ancestors who have faithfully served the Esquimaux. We found that + the dogs were glad to get their harnesses on and to be led away to the + sledge. Really, it was often a case of the dog leading the man, for, as + soon as its harness was in place, the impatient animal strained to drag + whatever might be attached to the other end of the rope. Before attaching + a team of dogs to a sledge, it was necessary to anchor the latter firmly, + otherwise in their ardour they would make off with it before everything + was ready. + </p> + <p> + There can be no question as to the value of dogs as a means of traction in + the Polar regions, except when travelling continuously over very rugged + country, over heavily crevassed areas, or during unusually bad weather. It + is in such special stances that the superiority of man-hauling has been + proved. Further, in an enterprise where human life is always at stake, it + is only fair to put forward the consideration that the dogs represent a + reserve of food in case of extreme emergency. + </p> + <p> + We continued due eastwards until five o'clock on the afternoon of the 17th + at an altitude of two thousand six hundred feet. On the crest of a ridge, + which bore away in distinct outline, on our left, a fine panorama of + coastal scenery was visible. Far off on the eastern horizon the Mertz + Glacier Tongue discovered itself in a long wall touched in luminous bands + by the south-western sun. A wide valley fell away in front, and beyond it + was a deep indentation of the coastline, which would make it necessary for + us to follow a more southerly course in order to round its head. + </p> + <p> + I determined to convey to the other parties my intentions, which had + become more defined on seeing this view; and, in the meantime, we halted + and treated ourselves to afternoon tea. This innovation in the ordinary + routine was extended to a custom by saving a portion of the lunch ration + for a "snack" at 5 P.M. on all days when the weather was moderately good. + As latitude sights were required at midday and longitude shots at 5 P.M., + the arrangement was very convenient, for, while one of us made tea, the + other two took the observations. + </p> + <p> + About 6 P.M. the two man-hauled sledges came up with us, our plans for the + future were reviewed and the final instructions were given. We bade our + comrades adieu and, turning to the south-east, descended quickly down a + long slope leading into the valley. The sky was overcast and it was almost + impossible to see the irregularities of the surface. Only a dull-white + glare met the eyes, and the first indication of a hillock was to stub + one's toes against it, or of a depression to fall into it. We pulled up + the dogs at 7.30 P.M. after covering thirteen and a quarter miles in the + day. + </p> + <p> + At 9.45 A.M. on November 18 everything was ready for a fresh start. The + other parties could be seen rapidly bearing down on us under full sail, + but our willing teams had soon dragged the three sledges over an eminence + and out of their sight. + </p> + <p> + It was a lovely day; almost like a dream after the lengthy months of + harassing blizzards. A venturesome skua gull appeared at lunch time, just + as an observation for latitude was being taken. By the time Ninnis had + unpacked the rifle the bird had flown away. + </p> + <p> + The direction of the sastrugi was found to vary from that which obtained + farther west, owing to a slight swing in the direction of the prevailing + wind. The irregularities in the coastline account for this; the wind + tending to flow down to sea-level by the nearest route. + </p> + <p> + To the north-west, behind us, a projecting ridge of rock—Madigan + Nunatak—came into sight. From the camp of the previous evening it + had evidently been hidden from view by an undulation in the surface. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon it was noted that the surface had become very deeply + eroded by the wind, troughs three feet in depth being common, into which + the sledges frequently capsized. Each of us took it in turn to run ahead, + jumping from one sastruga to another. As these were firm and polished by + the constant wind, one often slipped with a sudden shock to the ground. + Our bodies were well padded with clothing and we were beginning to get + into good form, so that these habitual tumbles were taken with the best + grace we could muster. I surprised myself during the afternoon, when my + turn came as forerunner, by covering two and a half miles at a jog-trot + without a break. The grade was slightly downhill and the sledges moved + along of their own accord, accelerated by jerks from the dogs, gliding at + right angles to the knife-edge crests of the snow-waves. + </p> + <p> + The roughness of the surface was not without its effect on the + sledge-meter, which had to be repaired temporarily. It was a matter of + some inconvenience that after this date its records were erroneous and + approximate distances were only obtained by checking the readings against + absolute observations made for latitude and longitude. + </p> + <p> + At 5.30 P.M. a dark object stood in salient relief above the white contour + of the snowy sky-line on the right. Suppressing our excitement, we pressed + on eagerly, changing course so as to approach it. At nine o'clock it + resolved itself into the summit of an imposing mountain rising up from a + mysterious valley. Aurora Peak, as it was named, was to be a prominent + landmark for several days to come. + </p> + <p> + All were ready to be on the move at 8.45 A.M. on November 19. While Mertz + and Ninnis built a cairn of snow, I wrote a note to be left on it in a + tin, containing instructions to Stillwell in case he should happen on the + locality. + </p> + <p> + The weather was good and the temperatures were high, ranging at this time + (one month from midsummer) between zero and 18 degrees F. When we camped + for lunch the air was quite calm and the sun's rays were extremely warm. + </p> + <p> + The surface became softer and smoother as the afternoon lengthened until + Mertz was tempted to put on his skis. He then became forerunner for the + remainder of the day. + </p> + <p> + Mertz, who was skilled in the use of skis, found them of great service on + this and on many future occasions. At such times he would relieve Ninnis + and myself in the van. On the other hand, over deeply furrowed sastrugi or + blue ice, or during a strong wind, unless it were at our backs, skiing was + impossible. + </p> + <p> + Owing to a steeper down grade, the sledges were now commencing to run more + freely and improvised brakes were tried, all of which were ineffectual in + restraining the dogs. The pace became so hot that a small obstacle would + capsize the sledge, causing it to roll over and over down the slope. The + dogs, frantically pulling in various directions to keep ahead of the load, + became hopelessly entangled in their traces and were dragged along + unresistingly until the sledge stopped of its own accord or was arrested + by one of us. At length, most of the dogs were allowed to run loose, and, + with a man holding on behind and a couple of dogs pulling ahead, the loads + were piloted down a steep slope for several miles. + </p> + <p> + The evening camp was situated at the crest of the last but steepest fall + into a wide glacial valley which was clearly seen to sweep northwards past + the eastern side of Aurora Peak. Looking back we could define our track + winding down in the bed of a long shallow valley, while, uprising on + either hand near the rim of the plateau were crevassed bluffs where the + ice of the tableland streamed abruptly over the underlying crags. + </p> + <p> + Ninnis had a touch of snow-blindness which rapidly improved under + treatment. The stock cure for this very irritating and painful affection + is to place first of all tiny "tabloids" of zinc sulphate and cocaine + hydrochloride under the eyelids where they quickly dissolve in the tears, + alleviating the smarting, "gritty" sensation which is usually described by + the sufferer. He then bandages the eyes and escapes, if he is lucky, into + the darkness of his sleeping-bag. + </p> + <p> + In certain lights one is sure to be attacked more or less severely, and + coloured glasses should be worn continually. Unfortunately, goggles are + sometimes impracticable on account of the moisture from the breath + covering the glasses with an icy film or driving snow clogging them and + obscuring the view. For such contingencies narrow slots of various shapes + are cut in plates or discs of wood or bone in the Esquimaux fashion. The + amount of light reaching the eye can thus be reduced to the limit of + moderately clear vision. + </p> + <p> + The morning of the 20th broke with wind and drift which persisted until + after noon. Already everything had been packed up, but, as there was a + steep fall in front and crevasses were not far distant, we decided not to + start until the air was clear of snow. + </p> + <p> + When at last a move was possible, it became evident that the dogs could + not be trusted to pull the sledges down to the edge of the glacier. So + they were tethered to ice-axes while we lowered the sledges one by one, + all three checking their speed, assisted by rope brakes round the runners. + Finally, the impatient dogs were brought down and harnessed in their + accustomed places. + </p> + <p> + Rapid travelling now commenced over a perfectly smooth surface, sloping + gently to the bed of the glacier. Mertz shot ahead on skis, and our column + of dogs and sledges followed quickly in his trail. + </p> + <p> + From this day forward our "order of procession" was as follows:—Behind + the forerunner came a team of dogs dragging two sledges joined together by + a short length of alpine rope. Bringing up the rear were the rest of the + dogs dragging the third sledge. Each team pulled approximately equal + weights; the front load being divided between two sledges. Except when + taking my turn ahead, I looked after the leading team, Ninnis or Mertz, as + the case might be, driving the one behind. + </p> + <p> + We skirted Aurora Peak on its south-eastern side. The mountain rose to a + height of about seventeen hundred feet on our left, its steep sides being + almost completely snow-clad. + </p> + <p> + The wide depression of the Mertz Glacier lay ahead, and on its far side + the dim outline of uprising icy slopes was visible, though at the time we + could not be certain as to their precise nature. + </p> + <p> + As the sledges passed Aurora Peak, Blizzard and Ginger Bitch ran + alongside. The former had hurt one of her forefeet on the previous day + during the "rough-and-tumble" descending into the valley. Ginger Bitch was + allowed to go free because she was daily expected to give birth to pups. + As she was such a good sledge-dog we could not have afforded to leave her + behind at the Hut, and later events proved that the work seemed actually + to benefit her, for she was at all times the best puller and the strongest + of the pack. However, in permitting both dogs to run loose that afternoon, + there was an element of danger which we had not sufficiently appreciated. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, without any warning, half of my dogs dropped out of sight, + swinging on their harness ropes in a crevasse. Next moment I realized that + the sledges were in the centre of a bridge covering a crevasse, + twenty-five feet wide, along the edge of which part of the team had broken + through. + </p> + <p> + We spent many anxious moments before they were all hauled to the daylight + and the sledge rested on solid ground. There were other crevasses about + and almost immediately afterwards Ginger Bitch and Blizzard had broken + through into a fissure and were frantically struggling to maintain their + hold on the edge. They were speedily rescued; following which Ginger Bitch + gave birth to the first of a large litter of pups. After this second + accident we decided to camp. + </p> + <p> + During the morning of November 21 there was a good deal of wind and drift + which made travelling rather miserable. Occasionally open crevasses would + break the surface of the snow. + </p> + <p> + When the light at last improved, a nunatak was observed some fifteen miles + or more to the south rising out of the glacier—Correll Nunatak. + Ahead of us was a glittering line of broken ice, stretching at right + angles to our path. Studded about on the icy plain were immense cauldrons, + like small craters in appearance. Then an area dotted over with ice mounds + approached and crevasses became correspondingly more numerous. The dogs + frequently broke through them but were easily extricated in every + instance. + </p> + <p> + Camp was pitched for lunch in the vicinity of many gaping holes leading + down into darkness, places where the bridges over large crevasses had + fallen in. Mertz prepared the lunch and Ninnis and I went to photograph an + open crevasse near by. Returning, we diverged on reaching the back of the + tent, he passing round on one side and I on the other. The next instant I + heard a bang on the ice and, swinging round, could see nothing of my + companion but his head and arms. He had broken through the lid of a + crevasse fifteen feet wide and was hanging on to its edge close to where + the camera lay damaged on the ice. He was soon dragged into safety. + Looking down into the black depths we realized how narrowly he had + escaped. As the tent was found to encroach partly on the same crevasse, it + may be imagined that we did not dally long over the meal. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon the weather became clear and fine, but, as if to offset + this, the broken surface became impassable. The region was one of serac + where the glacier was puckered up, folded and crushed. After several + repulses in what seemed to be promising directions, we were finally forced + to camp, having ten miles to our credit. + </p> + <p> + Whilst Mertz fed the dogs and prepared hoosh, Ninnis and I roped up and + went off to search for a passage. + </p> + <p> + All around, the glacier was pressed up into great folds, two hundred feet + in height and between one quarter and a third of a mile from crest to + crest. The ridges of the folds were either domes or open rifts partly + choked with snow. Precipitous ice-falls and deep cauldrons were + encountered everywhere. To the north the glacier flattened out; to the + south it was more rugged. + </p> + <p> + In this chaos we wandered for some miles until a favourable line of + advance had been discovered for the march on the following day. + </p> + <p> + The first three miles, on the 22nd, were over a piece of very dangerous + country, after which our prospects improved and we came to the border of a + level plain. + </p> + <p> + There Mertz slipped on his skis, went ahead and set a good pace. Although + the sky had become overcast and snow fell fitfully, our progress was rapid + towards the rising slopes of the land on the eastern side of the glacier. + Over the last three miles of the day's journey the surface was raised in + large, pimply masses surrounded by wide fissures. Into one of the + fissures, bridged by snow, Ninnis's sledge fell, but fortunately jammed + itself just below the surface. As it was, we had a long job getting it up + again, having to unpack the sledge in the crevasse until it was light + enough to be easily manipulated. Despite the delay, our day's run was + sixteen and a half miles. + </p> + <p> + At 8 A.M. on the 23rd everything was in readiness for a fresh start. + Moderate drift and wind descended from the hills and there were yet three + miles of hidden perils to be passed. With the object of making our advance + less dangerous, various devices were employed. + </p> + <p> + First of all the towing rope of the rear sledge was secured to the back of + the preceding sledge. This arrangement had to be abandoned because the + dogs of Ninnis's team persisted in entangling themselves and working + independently of the dogs in front. Next, all the sledges were joined + together with all the dogs pulling in front. The procession was then so + long that it was quite unmanageable on account of the tortuous nature of + our track through the labyrinth. In the long run, it was decided that our + original method was the best, provided that special precautions were taken + over the more hazardous crossings. + </p> + <p> + The usual procedure was, that the forerunner selected the best crossing of + a crevasse, testing it with a ski-stick. The dog teams were then brought + up to the spot and the forerunner went over the snow-bridge and stood on + the other side, sufficiently far away to allow the first team to cross to + him and to clear the crevasse. Then the second team was piloted to safety + before the forerunner had resumed his position in front. This precaution + was very necessary, for otherwise the dogs in the rear would make a course + direct for wherever the front dogs happened to be, cutting across corners + and most probably dragging their sledge sideways into a crevasse; the + likeliest way to lose it altogether. + </p> + <p> + Often enough the dogs broke through the snow-bridges on the morning of the + 23rd, but only once were matters serious, when Ninnis's sledge, doubtless + on account of its extra weight, again broke through a lid of snow and was + securely jammed in a crevasse just below the surface. + </p> + <p> + On this occasion we were in a serious predicament, for the sledge was in + such a position that an unskilful movement would have sent it hurling into + the chasm below. So the unpacking of the load was a tedious and delicate + operation. The freight consisted chiefly of large, soldered tins, packed + tightly with dried seal meat. Each of these weighed about ninety pounds + and all were most securely roped to the sledge. The sledge was got up and + reloaded without the loss of a single tin, and once more we breathed + freely. + </p> + <p> + A valley almost free of crevasses was chosen as the upward track to the + plateau. We threw in our weight hauling with the dogs, and had a long, + steep drag over furrowed neve, pitching the tent after a day's journey of + twelve miles. + </p> + <p> + On waking up on November 24 I found that my watch had stopped. I had been + so tired on the previous evening that I had fallen asleep without + remembering to wind it. The penalty of this accident was paid in my being + forced to take an extra set of observations in order to start the watch + again at correct time relative to the Hut. + </p> + <p> + Besides the observations for position, necessary for navigation, sets of + angles were taken from time to time to fix the positions of objects of + interest appearing within the field of view, while the magnetic variation + was obtained at intervals. In this work Ninnis always assisted me. Mertz + boiled the hypsometer when necessary to ascertain our elevation above + sea-level. The meteorological conditions were carefully noted several + times each day for future comparison with those of other parties and of + Winter Quarters. + </p> + <p> + The day's work on November 24 brought us high up on the slopes. Away to + the north-west Aurora Peak was still visible, standing up like a mighty + beacon pointing the way back to the Hut. Below lay the Mertz Glacier + extending out to sea as a floating tongue beyond the horizon. Inland, some + twenty miles to the south, it mounted up in seamed and riven "cataracts" + to a smooth, broad and shallow groove which wound into the ice-cap. Ahead, + on our south-east course, the ground still rose, but to the north-east the + ice-sheet fell away in long wide valleys, at the extremity of some of + which icebergs were visible frozen into distant sea-ice. + </p> + <p> + The tent was raised at 10 P.M. in a forty-mile wind with light drift; + temperature 10 degrees F. The altitude of this camp was two thousand three + hundred and fifty feet. + </p> + <p> + One of the worst features of drift overnight is that sledges and dogs + become buried in snow and have to be dug out in the morning. Thus on the + 25th it was 10 A.M. before we got away in a strong wind, with flying snow, + across fields of sastrugi. + </p> + <p> + The dogs detested the wind and, as their heads were so near the ground, + they must have found the incessant stream of thick drift very tantalizing. + The snow became caked over their eyes so that every few minutes they had + to scrape it away with their paws or rub their faces on the ground. + </p> + <p> + We stopped at 6 P.M. after a miserable day, covering sixteen miles in all. + </p> + <p> + November 26 broke overcast, the light being bad for travelling and the + wind still strong. Nevertheless we set out at 10 A.M. through falling + snow. + </p> + <p> + As the day progressed the wind subsided and Mertz was able to put on his + skis over a surface which sloped gradually away to the east. The light was + diffused uniformly over the irregularities of snow and ice so that + depressions only a few feet away were invisible. Black objects, on the + other hand, stood out with startling distinctness, and our attention was + soon arrested by a hazy, dark patch which appeared in front and to the + left. At first there was much doubt as to its nature, but it was soon + clear that it must be a group of rocks, apparently situated at a + considerable distance. They were subsequently found to be sixty miles away + (Organ Pipe Cliffs, near Cape Blake). + </p> + <p> + Presently our course ended abruptly at the edge of a precipitous fall. We + skirted round this for a while, but were ultimately forced to camp owing + to the uncertainty of the light and the proximity of several large + crevasses. + </p> + <p> + At 11 P.M. the sky cleared and a better idea could be gained of what lay + ahead. In a line between our elevated position and the distant rocky + outcrops the ice fell in a steep descent to a broad, glacial valley, + undulating and in places traversed by torn masses of serac-ice. We + examined the country to the east very carefully with a view to selecting a + track for the journey next day and finally resolved to pass to the south + of a large ice-capped island—Dixson Island, which was only about ten + miles to the north-east, set within Ninnis Glacier near its western border + </p> + <p> + On the 27th Mertz and I roped up, reconnoitred for a while and returned to + the sledges. We then spent several hours in advancing a mile over badly + broken ground, arriving at a slope covered with sastrugi and descending + steeply for one thousand feet into the bed of the glacier. + </p> + <p> + In order the more safely to negotiate this, the dogs were all let loose + excepting two in each sledge. Even then the sledges were often + uncontrollable, rolling over and over many times before the bottom was + reached. + </p> + <p> + When the dogs were re-harnessed it was found that Betli was missing and + was not to be seen when we scanned the slopes in our rear with binoculars. + It was expected that unless she had fallen into a crevasse she would turn + up at the camp that night. However, she did not reappear, and we saw no + more of her. Two other dogs, Jappy and Fusilier, had been previously + killed, as neither was of any use as a puller. Blizzard, who had been + always a great favourite with us, had to be shot next day. + </p> + <p> + When it had reached the edge of the glacier, our path led over a solid + ocean rising and faring in billows, two hundred and fifty feet in height; + no doubt caused by the glacier in its northward movement being compressed + against the southern side of Dixson Island. Still, the "caravan" made + considerable progress, ending with a day's journey of sixteen miles. + </p> + <p> + During the small hours of November 28 the wind rose to a velocity of sixty + miles per hour, but gradually diminished to a twenty-knot breeze as the + day advanced. Light snow fell from a sky which was densely clouded. + </p> + <p> + We still pursued a devious track amid rolling waves of ice, encountering + beds of soft snow through which the sledges moved slowly. By 6 P.M. + pinnacles and hummocks stood around on every side, and the light was such + that one could not distinguish crevasses until he was on top of them. We + had to camp and be satisfied with seven miles "to the good." By this time + the dogs were in good training and grew noticeably ravenous. In the + evening, before they were properly tethered, Shackleton seized a one-week + provision bag, ripped it open and ate a block of butter weighing more than + two and a half pounds. This was a loss to us, as butter was regarded as a + particular delicacy. + </p> + <p> + The sun was shining brightly next day and it was at once evident that we + were in a zone of tumbled and disrupted ice. + </p> + <p> + For many hours a way was won through a mighty turmoil of serac and over + innumerable crevasses with varied fortune. Just before lunch my two + sledges were nearly lost through the dogs swinging sharply to one side + before the second sledge had cleared a rather rotten snow-bridge. I was up + with the dogs at the time, and the first intimation I received of an + accident was on seeing the dogs and front sledge being dragged backwards; + the rear sledge was hanging vertically in a crevasse. Exerting all my + strength I held back the front sledge, and in a few moments was joined by + Ninnis and Mertz, who soon drove a pick and ice-axe down between the + runners and ran out an anchoring rope. + </p> + <p> + It was a ticklish business recovering the sledge which hung suspended in + the crevasse. It could not be lifted vertically as its bow was caught in a + V-shaped cornice formed by an overhanging mass of snow. To add to our + troubles the ground all about the place was precarious and unsafe. + </p> + <p> + Mertz and Ninnis therefore lowered me down and I attached a rope to the + tail-end of the sledge. The bow-rope and tail-rope were then manipulated + alternately until the bow of the sledge was manoeuvred slowly through the + gaping hole in the snow-lid and was finally hauled up on to level ground. + No more remarkable test of the efficiency of the sledge straps and the + compactness of the load could have been made. + </p> + <p> + After lunch Mertz ascended a high point and was able to trace out a route + which conducted us in a few hours to a better surface. + </p> + <p> + We were now at an elevation of from four hundred to five hundred feet + above sea-level, running across a beam-wind on our right which increased + during the afternoon. A rising blizzard made it necessary to camp after a + day's run of ten and one-third miles. + </p> + <p> + The wind blew up to seventy miles an hour during the night, but eased in + strength early on November 30. At 10 A.M. we tried to make a start, but + the dogs refused to face the drift. On the wind becoming gusty in the + afternoon, it was once more possible to travel, and we set out. + </p> + <p> + Dense drift was still to be seen pouring over the highlands to the + south-east. Above the glacier ahead whirlies, out-lined in high revolving + columns of snow, "stalked about" in their wayward courses. + </p> + <p> + The sledges ran through a sea of crevassed, blue ice, over ridges and past + open chasms. Seven miles brought us to the "foot-hills" on the eastern + border of the Ninnis Glacier, where we pitched camp. + </p> + <p> + The first day of December was still and hot, with brilliant sunshine. The + shade temperature reached 34 degrees F. and the snow became so sticky that + it was as much as we and the dogs could do to move the sledges up the + slopes. As the evening lengthened and the sun sank lower the surface froze + hard and our toil was lightened. At midnight we reached an altitude of + nine hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + December 2 was another warm, bright day. The surface was atrociously bad; + hard, sharp sastrugi, never less than two feet high and in many instances + three feet six inches from crest to trough. The dogs were not able to + exert a united pull for there were never more than half of them in action + at a time. + </p> + <p> + Once more we were at a comparatively high altitude and a fine view + presented itself to the north. One could look back to the mainland slopes + descending on the western side of the Ninnis Glacier. Then the glacier, + tumultuous and broken, was seen to extend far out into the frozen sea and, + sweeping round to the north-east, the eye ranged over a great expanse of + floe-ice dotted with bergs. To the east there was a precipitous coastline + of dark rock which for a while we thought of visiting. But then it seemed + likely that Madigan's party would reach as far east, so we set our faces + once more to the rising plateau in the south-east. + </p> + <p> + At midnight the sun was peering over the southern sky-line, and we halted + at an elevation of one thousand five hundred and fifty feet, having + covered eight and a half miles in the day. The temperature was 5 degrees + F. + </p> + <p> + "December 3.—We were not long on the way before the sky became + overcast and light snow fell. The surface was becoming flatter. Camp was + pitched at 11 P.M. after eleven and two-thirds miles. + </p> + <p> + "December 4.—Another day of bad light but the surface improved and + good headway was made on an easterly course at an elevation of between two + thousand and two thousand eight hundred feet. The crevasses were + practically past. The day's march was fifteen miles. + </p> + <p> + "December 5.—A bad day; overcast, snowing and a gale of wind from + the east-south-east. However, we plugged on blindly into it until 7.30 + P.M. and then camped, having done eleven and a half miles. + </p> + <p> + "December 6, 7 and 8.—During these days a dense blizzard raged, the + wind reaching seventy miles per hour. There was nothing to do but lie in + our bags and think out plans for the future. Each morning Ninnis and Mertz + took it in turns to go out and feed their charges, who were snugly buried + in the deep snow. + </p> + <p> + "One day in the sleeping-bag does not come amiss after long marches, but + three days on end is enough to bore any one thoroughly. + </p> + <p> + "Ninnis was not so badly off with a volume of Thackeray, but Mertz had + come to the end of a small edition of 'Sherlock Holmes' when + blizzard-bound near Aladdin's Cave, and his only diversion on these days + was to recite passages from memory for our mutual benefit." + </p> + <p> + I was troubled with an inflammation in the face just at this time, while + Ninnis suffered pain owing to a "whitlow" on one of his fingers. + </p> + <p> + As usual the food ration was reduced. This caused us to have more than + ordinarily vivid dreams. I happened to be awake one night when Ninnis was + sledging in imagination, vociferously shouting, "Hike, hike," to the dogs; + our equivalent of the usual "Mush, mush." + </p> + <p> + Despite considerable wind and drift we got away at 8 A.M. on December 9. + The sky was overcast and there was nothing to be seen except a soft carpet + of newly fallen snow into which we sank half-way to the knees. The sledges + ran deeply and heavily so that the dogs had to be assisted. Ahead Mertz + glided along triumphant, for it was on such occasions that skis were of + the greatest assistance to him. + </p> + <p> + During the day a snow petrel circled above us for a while and then + returned to the north. + </p> + <p> + The course was due east at an elevation of two thousand three hundred feet + and the total distance we threw behind during the day was sixteen and a + half miles. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th light wind and low drift were the order of things. Our spirits + rose when the sky cleared and a slight down grade commenced. + </p> + <p> + During the morning Ninnis drew our attention to what appeared to be small + ice-capped islets fringing the coast, but the distance was too great for + us to be sure of their exact nature. Out near the verge of the horizon a + tract of frozen sea with scattered bergs could be seen. + </p> + <p> + Next day more features were distinguishable. The coast was seen to run in + a north-easterly direction as a long peninsula ending in a sharp cape—Cape + Freshfield. The north appeared to be filled with frozen sea though we + could not be certain that it was not dense pack-ice. Little did we know + that Madigan's party, about a week later, would be marching over the + frozen sea towards Cape Freshfield in the north-east. + </p> + <p> + At 10 P.M. on the 11th, at an altitude of one thousand eight hundred feet, + the highland we were traversing fell away rapidly and sea-ice opened up + directly in front of us. The coastal downfalls to the south-east fell in + rugged masses to a vertical barrier, off the seaward face of which large, + tabular bergs were grouped within environing floe. + </p> + <p> + Throughout December 12 a somewhat irregular course was made to the + south-east and south to avoid the broken area ahead. We had had enough of + crevasses and wished to be clear of serac-ice in the future. + </p> + <p> + For some days Ninnis had been enduring the throbbing pain of a whitlow and + had not been having sufficient sleep. He always did his share of the work + and had undoubtedly borne a great deal of pain without showing it. On + several nights I noticed that he sat up in his sleeping-bag for hours + puffing away at a pipe or reading. At last the pain became so acute that + he asked me to lance his finger. This was successfully accomplished after + breakfast on the 13th and during the day he had much relief. + </p> + <p> + While Ninnis rested before we made a start, Mertz and I re-arranged the + sledges and their loads. A third sledge was no longer necessary, so the + one usually driven by Ninnis, which had been damaged, was discarded and + all the gear was divided between the other two sledges in nearly equal + amounts. When the work was completed, the rear sledge carried an extra + weight of fifty pounds. As, however, both food for men and dogs were to + come from it, we reckoned that this superadded load would soon diminish. + </p> + <p> + On we went, during the afternoon, up a steep ascent. Crevasses were so + numerous that we took measures to vent them. Some were as much as a + hundred feet in width, filled with snow; others were great open holes or + like huge cauldrons. Close to the windward edge of some of the latter high + ramps of neve with bluff faces on the windward side stood up like + monoliths reaching twenty-five feet in maximum height. + </p> + <p> + In the evening a field of neve was reached and we felt more placid after + the anxiety of the preceding hours. + </p> + <p> + During the passage of a snow-filled valley a dull, booming sound like the + noise of far-distant cannon was heard. It was evidently connected with the + subsidence of large areas of the surface crust. Apparently large cavities + had formed beneath the snow and the weight of ourselves and the sledges + caused the crust to sink and the air to be expelled. + </p> + <p> + The sun appeared late in the day and, as it was almost calm, the last few + hours of marching were very pleasant. At midnight we camped at an altitude + of one thousand nine hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + A light east-south-east wind was blowing as the sledges started away + eastward on the morning of December 14. The weather was sunny and the + temperature registered 21 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + Mertz and I were happy to know that Ninnis had slept well and was feeling + much better. + </p> + <p> + Our march was interrupted at noon by a latitude observation, after which + Mertz went ahead on skis singing his student songs. The dogs rose to the + occasion and pulled eagerly and well. Everything was for once in harmony + and the time was at hand when we should turn our faces homewards. + </p> + <p> + Mertz was well in advance of us when I noticed him hold up his ski-stick + and then go on. This was a signal for something unusual so, as I + approached the vicinity, I looked out for crevasses or some other + explanation of his action. As a matter of fact crevasses were not + expected, since we were on a smooth surface of neve well to the southward + of the broken coastal slopes. On reaching the spot where Mertz had + signalled and seeing no sign of any irregularity, I jumped on to the + sledge, got out the book of tables and commenced to figure out the + latitude observation taken on that day. Glancing at the ground a moment + after, I noticed the faint indication of a crevasse. It was but one of + many hundred similar ones we had crossed and had no specially dangerous + appearance, but still I turned quickly round, called out a warning word to + Ninnis and then dismissed it from my thoughts. + </p> + <p> + Ninnis, who was walking along by the side of his sledge, close behind my + own, heard the warning, for in my backward glance I noticed that he + immediately swung the leading dogs so as to cross the crevasse squarely + instead of diagonally as I had done. I then went on with my work. + </p> + <p> + There was no sound from behind except a faint, plaintive whine from one of + the dogs which I imagined was in reply to a touch from Ninnis's whip. I + remember addressing myself to George, the laziest dog in my own team, + saying, "You will be getting a little of that, too, George, if you are not + careful." + </p> + <p> + When I next looked back, it was in response to the anxious gaze of Mertz + who had turned round and halted in his tracks. Behind me, nothing met the + eye but my own sledge tracks running back in the distance. Where were + Ninnis and his sledge? + </p> + <p> + I hastened back along the trail thinking that a rise in the ground + obscured the view. There was no such good fortune, however, for I came to + a gaping hole in the surface about eleven feet wide. The lid of a crevasse + had broken in; two sledge tracks led up to it on the far side but only one + continued on the other side. + </p> + <p> + Frantically waving to Mertz to bring up my sledge, upon which there was + some alpine rope, I leaned over and shouted into the dark depths below. No + sound came back but the moaning of a dog, caught on a shelf just visible + one hundred and fifty feet below. The poor creature appeared to have + broken its back, for it was attempting to sit up with the front part of + its body while the hinder portion lay limp. Another dog lay motionless by + its side. Close by was what appeared in the gloom to be the remains of the + tent and a canvas tank containing food for three men for a fortnight. + </p> + <p> + We broke back the edge of the neve lid and took turns leaning over secured + by a rope, calling into the darkness in the hope that our companion might + be still alive. For three hours we called unceasingly but no answering + sound came back. The dog had ceased to moan and lay without a movement. A + chill draught was blowing out of the abyss. We felt that there was little + hope. + </p> + <p> + Why had the first sledge escaped the crevasse? It seemed that I had been + fortunate, because my sledge had crossed diagonally, with a greater chance + of breaking the snow-lid. The sledges were within thirty pounds of the + same weight. The explanation appeared to be that Ninnis had walked by the + side of his sledge, whereas I had crossed it sitting on the sledge. The + whole weight of a man's body bearing on his foot is a formidable load and + no doubt was sufficient to smash the arch of the roof. + </p> + <p> + By means of a fishing line we ascertained that it was one hundred and + fifty feet sheer to the ledge on which the remains were seen; on either + side the crevasse descended into blackness. It seemed so very far down + there and the dogs looked so small that we got out the field glasses, but + could make out nothing more by their aid. + </p> + <p> + All our available rope was tied together but the total length was + insufficient to reach the ledge and any idea of going below to investigate + and to secure some of the food had to be abandoned. + </p> + <p> + Stunned by the unexpectedness of it all and having exhausted the few + appliances we carried for such a contingency, we felt helpless. In such + moments action is the only tolerable thing, and if there had been any + expedient however hazardous which might have been tried, we should have + taken all and more than the risk. Stricken dumb with the pity of it and + heavy at heart, we turned our minds mechanically to what lay nearest at + hand. + </p> + <p> + There were rations on the other sledge, and we found that there was a bare + one and a half weeks' food for ourselves and nothing at all for the dogs. + Part of the provisions consisted of raisins and almonds which had been + taken as extras or "perks," as they were usually called. + </p> + <p> + Among other losses there were both spade and ice-axe, but fortunately a + spare tent-cover was saved. Mertz's burberry trousers had gone down with + the sledge and the best substitute he could get was a pair of thick Jaeger + woollen under-trousers from the spare clothing we possessed. + </p> + <p> + Later in the afternoon Mertz and I went ahead to a higher point in order + to obtain a better view of our surroundings. At a point two thousand four + hundred feet above sea-level and three hundred and fifteen and + three-quarter miles eastward from the Hut, a complete observation for + position and magnetic azimuth was taken. + </p> + <p> + The coastal slopes were fearfully broken and scaured in their descent to + the sea, which was frozen out to the horizon. No islands were observed or + anything which could correspond with the land marked by Wilkes as existing + so much farther to the north. Patches of "water sky" were visible in two + places in the far distance. As we stood looking north a Wilson petrel + suddenly appeared and after flitting about for a short time departed. + </p> + <p> + We returned to the crevasse and packed the remaining sledge, discarding + everything unnecessary so as to reduce the weight of the load. A thin soup + was made by boiling up all the old food-bags which could be found. The + dogs were given some worn-out fur mitts, finnesko and several spare raw + hide straps, all of which they devoured. + </p> + <p> + We still continued to call down into the crevasse at regular intervals in + case our companion might not have been killed outright and, in the + meantime, have become conscious. There was no reply. + </p> + <p> + A weight was lowered on the fishing line as far as the dog which had + earlier shown some signs of life, but there was no response. All were + dead, swallowed up in an instant. + </p> + <p> + When comrades tramp the road to anywhere through a lonely blizzard-ridden + land in hunger, want and weariness the interests, ties and fates of each + are interwoven in a wondrous fabric of friendship and affection. The shock + of Ninnis's death struck home and deeply stirred us. + </p> + <p> + He was a fine fellow and a born soldier—and the end:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Life—give me life until the end, + That at the very top of being, + The battle spirit shouting in my blood, + Out of very reddest hell of the fight + I may be snatched and flung + Into the everlasting lull, + The Immortal, Incommunicable Dream. +</pre> + <p> + At 9 P.M. we stood by the side of the crevasse and I read the burial + service. Then Mertz shook me by the hand with a short "Thank you!" and we + turned away to harness up the dogs. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII TOIL AND TRIBULATION + </h2> + <p> + The homeward track! A few days ago—only few hours ago-our hearts had + beat hopefully at the prospect and there was no hint of this, the + overwhelming tragedy. Our fellow, comrade, chum, in a woeful instant, + buried in the bowels of the awful glacier. We could not think of it; we + strove to forget it in the necessity of work, but we knew that the truth + would assuredly enter our souls in the lonely days to come. It was to be a + fight with Death and the great Providence would decide the issue. + </p> + <p> + On the outward journey we had left no depots of provisions en route, for + it was our bad fortune to meet such impossible country that we had decided + to make a circuit on our return to Winter Quarters sufficiently far inland + to avoid the coastal irregularities. As a matter of fact, on the very day + of the calamity, preparations had been made to cache most of the food + within twenty-four hours, as during the last few days of the journey we + were to make a dash to our "farthest east" point. Such were the plans, and + now we were ranged against unexpected odds. + </p> + <p> + With regard to the dogs, there were six very miserable animals left. The + best of them had been drafted into the rear team, as it was expected that + if an accident happened through the collapse of a snow-bridge the first + sledge would most probably suffer. For the same reason most of the food + and other indispensable articles had been carried on the rear sledge. + </p> + <p> + All the dogs which had perished were big and powerful; Basilisk, Ginger + Bitch, Shackleton, Castor, Franklin and John Bull. We had fully + anticipated that those at least would come back alive, at the expense of + the six dogs in my sledge. + </p> + <p> + A silent farewell!—and we started back, aiming to reach our + camping-ground on December 12 before a snowstorm intervened, as several + things had been left there which would be of use to us in our straitened + stances. The weather still held good and there were no signs of + approaching snow or wind. So Mertz went ahead on skis, while we plodded + slowly up the hills and dashed recklessly down them. During the descents I + sat on the sledge and we slid over long crevassed slopes in a wild + fashion, almost with a languid feeling that the next one would probably + swallow us up. But we did not much care then, as it was too soon after + losing our friend. + </p> + <p> + At 2.30 A.M. on December 15 the discarded sledge and broken spade came + into sight. On reaching them, Mertz cut a runner of the broken sledge into + two pieces which were used in conjunction with his skis as a framework on + which to pitch the spare tent-cover; our only tent and poles having been + lost. Each time the makeshift shelter was erected, these props had to be + carefully lashed together at the apex, which stood four feet from the + ground. Inside, there was just room for two one-man sleeping-bags on the + floor. However, only one man at a time could move about and neither of us + could ever rise above a sitting posture. Still, it was a shelter which + protected us from the bad weather, and, with plenty of snow blocks piled + around it, was wonderfully resistant to the wind. + </p> + <p> + When we retired to rest, it was not to sleep but to think out the best + plan for the return journey. + </p> + <p> + It was obvious that a descent to the frozen sea would be dangerous on + account of the heavily crevassed nature of the falling glacier, delay + would undoubtedly be caused and our distance from the Hut would be + increased. To decide definitely for the sea-ice would be to take other + risks as well, since, from the altitude at which we were placed, we could + not be sure that the floe-ice which covered the sea would provide a good + travelling surface. In any case it was likely to be on the point of + breaking up, for the season was nearing midsummer. On the other hand, + there was on the sea-ice a chance of obtaining seals for food. + </p> + <p> + After due consideration we resolved to follow the shorter route, returning + inland over the plateau, for it was reckoned that if the weather were + reasonable we might win through to Winter Quarters with one and a half + weeks' rations and the six dogs which still remained, provided we ate the + dogs to eke out our provisions. Fortunately neither the cooker nor the + kerosene had been lost. + </p> + <p> + George, the poorest of the dogs, was killed and partly fed to the others, + partly kept for ourselves. The meat was roughly fried on the lid of the + aluminium cooker, an operation which resulted in little more than + scorching the surface. On the whole it was voted good though it had a + strong, musty taste and was so stringy that it could not be properly + chewed. + </p> + <p> + As both mugs and spoons had been lost, I made two pannikins out of tins in + which cartridges and matches had been packed, and Mertz carved wooden + spoons out of a portion of the broken sledge. At this camp he also spliced + the handle of the broken shovel which had been picked up, so as to make it + temporarily serviceable. + </p> + <p> + It was midsummer, and therefore we found it easier to drag the sledge over + the snow at night when the surface was frozen hard. Camp was not finally + broken until 6 P.M., when the long and painful return journey commenced. + </p> + <p> + For fourteen miles the way led up rising snow slopes to the north-west + until an elevation of two thousand five hundred feet had been reached. + After that, variable grades and flat country were met. Though the sledge + was light, the dogs required helping and progress was slow. The midnight + sun shone low in the south, and we tramped on through the morning hours, + anxious to reduce the miles which lay ahead. + </p> + <p> + Early on December 16 the sky became rapidly overcast. The snowy land and + the snowy sky merged to form an enclosed trap, as it seemed to us, while + showers of snow fell. There were no shadows to create contrast; it was + impossible to distinguish even the detail of the ground underfoot. We + stumbled over unseen ridges of the hard neve, our gaze straining forward. + The air was so still that advantage was taken of the calm to light the + primus and melt some snow in the lee of the sledge. The water, to which + were added a few drops of primus alcohol, helped to assuage our thirst. + </p> + <p> + The erection of the makeshift tent was a long and tedious operation, and + so, on our return marches, we never again took any refreshment during the + day's work excepting on this occasion. + </p> + <p> + At 6 A.M., having done twenty miles and ascended to an elevation of about + two thousand five hundred feet, we pitched camp. + </p> + <p> + There was very little sleep for me that day for I had an unusually bad + attack of snow-blindness. During the time that we rested in the bags Mertz + treated one of my eyes three times, the other twice with zinc sulphate and + cocaine. + </p> + <p> + On account of the smallness of the tent a great deal of time was absorbed + in preparations for "turning in" and for getting away from each camp. + Thus, although we rose before 6 P.M. on December 16, the start was not + made until 8.30 P.M., notwithstanding the fact that the meal was of the + "sketchiest" character. + </p> + <p> + On that night ours was a mournful procession; the sky thickly clouded, + snow falling, I with one eye bandaged and the dog Johnson broken down and + strapped on top of the load on the sledge. There was scarcely a sound; + only the rustle of the thick, soft snow as we pushed on, weary but full of + hope. The dogs dumbly pressed forward in their harness, forlorn but eager + to follow. Their weight now told little upon the sledge, the work mainly + falling upon ourselves. Mertz was tempted to try hauling on skis, but came + to the conclusion that it did not pay and thenceforth never again used + them. + </p> + <p> + Close to the Magnetic Pole as we were, the compass was of little use, and + to steer a straight course to the west without ever seeing anything of the + surroundings was a difficult task. The only check upon the correctness of + the bearing was the direction in which trended the old hard winter + sastrugi, channelled out along a line running almost north and south. The + newly fallen snow obliterated these, and frequent halts had to be called + in order to investigate the buried surface. + </p> + <p> + At 2 A.M. on the 17th we had only covered eleven miles when we stopped to + camp. Then Mertz shot and cut up Johnson while I prepared the supper. + </p> + <p> + Johnson had always been a very faithful, hard-working and willing beast, + with rather droll ways of his own, and we were sorry that his end should + come so soon. He could never be accused of being a handsome dog, in fact + he was generally disreputable and dirty. + </p> + <p> + All the dogs were miserable and thin when they reached the stage of + extreme exhaustion. Their meat was tough, stringy and without a vestige of + fat. For a change we sometimes chopped it up finely, mixed it with a + little pemmican, and brought all to the boil in a large pot of water. We + were exceedingly hungry, but there was nothing to satisfy our appetites. + Only a few ounces were used of the stock of ordinary food, to which was + added a portion of dog's meat, never large, for each animal yielded so + very little, and the major part was fed to the surviving dogs. They + crunched the bones and ate the skin, until nothing remained. + </p> + <p> + A fresh start was made at 7.30 P.M. and a wretched, trying night was + spent, when we marched without a break for twelve and a half hours. + Overhead there was a dense pall of nimbus from which snow fell at + intervals. None of the dogs except Ginger gave any help with the load, and + Mary was so worn out that she had to be carried on the sledge. Poor Mary + had been a splendid dog, but we had to kill her at the camp in the + morning. + </p> + <p> + After a run of eighteen and a half miles we halted at 8 A.M. on December + 18. + </p> + <p> + At 5.30 P.M. a light south-easter blew and snow fell from an overcast sky. + Soon after a start was made, it became apparent that a descent was + commencing. In this locality the country had been swept by wind, for none + of the recent snow settled on the surface. The sastrugi were high and + hard, and over them we bumped, slipping and falling in the uncertain + light. We could not endure this kind of travelling for long and resolved + to camp shortly after midnight, intending to go on when the day had + advanced further and the light was stronger. + </p> + <p> + "December 19.—Up at noon and tried a few more miles in the + snow-glare. Later in the afternoon the sky began to break and we picked + our way with less difficulty. Camped at 5 P.M., having done only twelve + miles one thousand and fifty yards since the morning of December 18. + </p> + <p> + "Up at 8 P.M. again, almost calm and sun shining. Still continuing a + westerly course we dropped several hundred feet, marching over rough, + slippery fields of sastrugi." + </p> + <p> + In the early morning hours of the 20th the surface changed to ice and + occasional crevasses appeared. It was clear that we had arrived at the + head of the Ninnis Glacier above the zone of serac we had traversed on the + outward journey. It was very satisfactory to know this; to be certain that + some landmark had been seen and recognized. + </p> + <p> + Soon after this discovery we came near losing Haldane, the big grey wolf, + in a crevasse. Miserably thin from starvation the wretched dogs no longer + filled their harness. As we pulled up Haldane, after he had broken into a + deep, sheer-walled crevasse, his harness slipped off just as he reached + the top. It was just possible to seize hold of his hair at that moment and + to land him safely, otherwise we should have lost many days' rations. + </p> + <p> + He took to the harness once more but soon became uncertain in his + footsteps, staggered along and then tottered and fell. Poor brutes! that + was the way they all gave in—pulling till they dropped. + </p> + <p> + We camped at 4 A.M., thinking that a rest would revive Haldane. Inside the + tent some snow was thawed, and we drank the water with an addition of a + little primus spirit. A temperature reading showed-1 degree F. + </p> + <p> + Outside, the hungry huskies moaned unceasingly until we could bear to hear + them no longer. The tent was struck and we set off once more. + </p> + <p> + Haldane was strapped on the sledge as he could not walk. He had not eaten + the food we had given him, because his jaws seemed too weak to bite. He + had just nursed it between his paws and licked it. + </p> + <p> + Before the dogs became as weak as this, great care had to be taken in + tethering them at each camp so as to prevent them from gnawing the wood of + the sledge, the straps or, in fact, anything at all. Every time we were + ready for a fresh start they seemed to regain their old strength, for they + struggled and fought to seize any scraps, however useless, left on the + ground. + </p> + <p> + The day's march was completed at 10.30 A.M. and fourteen and a half miles + lay behind. + </p> + <p> + "We were up again at 11.20 P.M. Sky clear; fifteen-mile breeze from the + south-south-east and the temperature 3 degrees F. By midnight there was a + thirty-mile wind and low, flying drift. + </p> + <p> + "December 21.—The night-march was a miserable one. The only thing + which helped to relieve it was that for a moment Dixson Island was miraged + up in the north, and we felt that we had met an old friend, which means a + lot in this icy desolation. The surface was furrowed by hard, sharp + sastrugi. + </p> + <p> + "We camped at 9 A.M. after only eleven miles. Haldane was finished off + before we retired. + </p> + <p> + "We were up again at 9 P.M., and when a start was made at 11 P.M. there + was a strong south-south-east wind blowing, with low drift; temperature, + zero Fahr. + </p> + <p> + "December 22.—The surface of hard, polished sastrugi caused many + falls. The track was undulating, rising in one case several hundred feet + and finally falling in a long slope. + </p> + <p> + "Pavlova gave in late in the march and was taken on the sledge. + </p> + <p> + "Camped at 6.40 A.M. in a forty-mile wind with low drift. Distance marched + was twelve miles one thousand four hundred yards. + </p> + <p> + "Before turning in, we effected sundry repairs. Mertz re-spliced the + handle of the shovel which had broken apart and I riveted the broken + spindle of the sledge-meter. The mechanism of the latter had frozen during + the previous day's halt, and, on being started, its spindle had broken off + short. It was a long and tedious job tapping at the steed with a toy + hammer, but the rivet held miraculously for the rest of the journey. + </p> + <p> + "Up at 11.30 P.M., a moderate breeze blowing, overcast sky, light snow + falling." + </p> + <p> + On December 28 an uphill march commenced which was rendered very heavy by + the depth of the soft snow. Pavlova had to be carried on the sledge. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, gaping crevasses appeared dimly through the falling snow which + surrounded us like a blanket. There was nothing to do but camp, though it + was only 4.30 A.M., and we had covered but five miles one thousand two + hundred and thirty yards. + </p> + <p> + Pavlova was killed and we made a very acceptable soup from her bones. In + view of the dark outlook, our ration of food had to be still further cut + down. We had no proper sleep, hunger gnawing at us all the time, and the + question of food was for ever in our thoughts. Dozing in the fur bags, we + dreamed of gorgeous "spreads" and dinner-parties at home. Tramping along + through the snow, we racked our brains thinking of how to make the most of + the meagre quantity of dogs' meat at hand. + </p> + <p> + The supply of kerosene for the primus stove promised to be ample, for none + of it had been lost in the accident. We found that it was worth while + spending some time in boiling the dogs' meat thoroughly. Thus a tasty soup + was prepared as well as a supply of edible meat in which the muscular + tissue and the gristle were reduced to the consistency of a jelly. The + paws took longest of all to cook, but, treated to lengthy stewing, they + became quite digestible. + </p> + <p> + On December 24 we were up at 8 A.M. just as the sun commenced to gleam + through clouds. The light was rather bad, and snow fell as the track + zigzagged about among many crevasses; but suddenly the sun broke forth. + The sledge was crossing a surface of deep snow which soon became so sticky + that the load would scarcely move. At last a halt was made after four + miles, and we waited for the evening, when the surface was expected to + harden. + </p> + <p> + A small prion visited us but went off in a moment. It is very remarkable + how far some Antarctic sea-birds may wander inland, apparently at such a + great distance from anything which should interest them. We were then more + than one hundred miles south of the open sea. As the bird flew away, we + watched it until it disappeared in the north, wishing that we too had + wings to cross the interminable plateau ahead. + </p> + <p> + Lying in the sleeping-bag that day I dreamt that I visited a + confectioner's shop. All the wares that were displayed measured feet in + diameter. I purchased an enormous delicacy just as one would buy a bun + under ordinary stances. I remember paying the money over the counter, but + something happened before I received what I had chosen. When I realized + the omission I was out in the street, and, being greatly disappointed, + went back to the shop, but found the door shut and "early closing" written + on it. + </p> + <p> + Though a good daily average had been maintained on the march whenever + conditions were at all favourable, the continuance of bad weather and the + undoubtedly weaker state in which we found ourselves made it imperative to + dispense with all but the barest necessities. Thus the theodolite was the + only instrument retained, and the camera, photographic films (exposed and + unexposed), hypsometer, thermometers, rifle, ammunition and other sundries + were all thrown away. The frame of the tent was made lighter by + constructing two poles, each four feet high, from the telescopic + theodolite legs, the heavier pieces of sledge-runner being discarded. + </p> + <p> + We were up at 11 P.M. on December 24, but so much time was absorbed in + making a dog-stew for Christmas that it was not till 2.80 A.M. that we got + under way. We wished each other happier Christmases in the future, and + divided two scraps of biscuit which I found in my spare kit-bag; relics of + better days. + </p> + <p> + The surface was a moderately good one of undulating, hard sastrugi, and, + as the course had been altered to north-west, the southerly wind helped us + along. The sun shone brightly, and only for the wind and the low drift we + might have felt tolerably comfortable. On our right, down within the + shallow depression of the Ninnis Glacier, the low outline of Dixson + Island, forty miles to the north, could be seen miraged up on the horizon. + </p> + <p> + The tent was raised at 9.30 A.M. after a run of eleven miles one hundred + and seventy-six yards. An ounce each of butter was served out from our + small stock to give a festive touch to the dog-stew. + </p> + <p> + At noon I took an observation for latitude, and, after taking a bearing on + to Dixson Island, computed that the distance in an air-line to Winter + Quarters was one hundred and sixty miles. + </p> + <p> + "December 26.—Got away at 2 A.M.; the surface undulating and + hummocky with occasional beds of soft snow. Sun shining, wind ranged + between thirty and forty miles per hour with much low drift; cold; camped + about noon having done ten miles five hundred and twenty-eight yards. + </p> + <p> + "We have reached the western side of the Ninnis Glacier. Ahead are rising + slopes, but we look forward to assistance from the wind in the ascent. + </p> + <p> + "I was again troubled with a touch of snow-blindness, but it responded to + the usual treatment. + </p> + <p> + "At 11 P.M. we were at it again,but what with preparing dog-stew, packing + up within the limited area of the tent and experimenting with a sail, it + was five hours before the march commenced. + </p> + <p> + "The sail was the tent-cover, attached to the top of one ski lashed + vertically as a mast and secured below to the other ski, lashed across the + sledge as a boom." + </p> + <p> + A start was made at 4 A.M. on the 27th in a thirty-mile wind accompanied + by low drift. The surface was smooth but grew unexpectedly soft at + intervals, while the ascent soon began to tell on us. Though the work was + laborious, notwithstanding some aid from the sail, the bright sunlight + kept up our spirits, and, whenever a halt was called for a few minutes' + spell, the conversation invariably turned upon the subject of food and + what we should do on arrival on board the 'Aurora'. + </p> + <p> + At noon the sledge-meter showed nine miles one thousand four hundred + yards, and we agreed to halt and pitch camp. + </p> + <p> + The wind had fallen off considerably, and in the brilliant sunshine it was + comparatively warm in the tent. The addition of the heat from the primus + stove, kept burning for an unusually long time during the preparation of + the meat, caused a thaw of drift-snow which became lodged on the lee side + of the tent. Thus we had frequently to put up with an unwelcome drip. + Moisture came from the floor also, as there was no floor-cloth, and the + sleeping-bags were soon very wet and soggy. As soon as the cooking was + finished, the tent cooled off and the wet walls froze and became stiff + with icy cakes. + </p> + <p> + At this time we were eating largely of the dogs' meat, to which was added + one or two ounces of chocolate or raisins, three or four ounces of + pemmican and biscuit mixed together, and, as a beverage, very dilute + cocoa. The total weight of solid food consumed by each man per day was + approximately fourteen ounces. Our small supply of butter and glaxo was + saved for emergency, while a few tea-bags which remained were boiled over + and over again. + </p> + <p> + The march commenced on December 28 at 3 A.M. in a thirty-mile wind + accompanied by light drift. Overhead there was a wild sky which augured + badly for the next few days. It was cold work raising the sail, and we + were glad to be marching. + </p> + <p> + Our faithful retainer Ginger could walk no longer and was strapped on the + sledge. She was the last of the dogs and had been some sort of a help + until a few days before. We were sad when it came to finishing her off. + </p> + <p> + On account of the steep up grade and the weight of Ginger on the sledge, + we camped at 7.15 A.M. after only four miles one thousand two hundred and + thirty yards. + </p> + <p> + We had breakfast off Ginger's skull and brain. I can never forget the + occasion. As there was nothing available to divide it, the skull was + boiled whole. Then the right and left halves were drawn for by the old and + well-established sledging practice of "shut-eye," after which we took it + in turns eating to the middle line, passing the skull from one to the + other. The brain was afterwards scooped out with a wooden spoon. + </p> + <p> + On sledging journeys it is usual to apportion all food-stuffs in as nearly + even halves as possible. Then one man turns away and another, pointing to + a heap, asks "Whose?" The reply from the one not looking is "Yours" or + "Mine" as the case may be. Thus an impartial and satisfactory division of + the rations is made. + </p> + <p> + After the meal I went on cooking more meat so as to have a supply in + readiness for eating. It was not till 2 P.M. that the second lot was + finished. The task was very trying, for I had to sit up on the floor of + the tent for hours in a cramped position, continually attending to the + cooker, while Mertz in his Sleeping-bag was just accommodated within the + limited space which remained. The tent was too small either to lie down + during the operation or to sit up comfortably on a sleeping-bag. + </p> + <p> + At 9.30 P.M. Mertz rose to take a turn at the cooking, and at 11 P.M. I + joined him at "breakfast." + </p> + <p> + At this time a kind of daily cycle was noted in the weather. It was always + calmest between 4 P.M. and 6 P.M. During the evening hours the wind + increased until it reached a maximum between four and six o'clock next + morning, after which it fell off gradually. + </p> + <p> + We were away at 2.30 A.M. on the 29th in a thirty-mile wind which raised a + light drift. The sail was found to be of great assistance over a surface + which rose in terraces of fifty to one hundred feet in height, occurring + every one to one and a half miles. This march lasted for six hours, during + which we covered seven miles five hundred and twenty-eight yards. + </p> + <p> + On December 30 the ascent continued and the wind was still in the + "thirties." After several hours we overtopped the last terrace and stood + on flat ground—the crest of a ridge. + </p> + <p> + Tramping over the plateau, where reigns the desolation of the outer + worlds, in solitude at once ominous and weird, one is free to roam in + imagination through the wide realm of human experience to the bounds of + the great Beyond. One is in the midst of infinities—the infinity of + the dazzling white plateau, the infinity of the dome above, the infinity + of the time past since these things had birth, and the infinity of the + time to come before they shall have fulfilled the Purpose for which they + were created. We, in the midst of the illimitable, could feel with Marcus + Aurelius that "Of life, the time is a point." + </p> + <p> + By 9 A.M. we had accomplished a splendid march of fifteen miles three + hundred and fifty yards, but the satisfaction we should have felt at + making such an inroad on the huge task before us was damped by the fact + that I suddenly became aware that Mertz was not as cheerful as usual. I + was at a loss to know the reason, for he was always such a bright and + companionable fellow. + </p> + <p> + At 10.15 P.M. the sky had become overcast, snow was falling and a strong + wind was blowing. We decided to wait for better conditions. + </p> + <p> + On New Year's Eve at 5.30 A.M. the wind was not so strong, so we got up + and prepared for the start. + </p> + <p> + Mertz said that he felt the dogs' meat was not doing him much good and + suggested that we should give it up for a time and eat a small ration of + the ordinary sledging food, of which we had still some days' supply + carefully husbanded. I agreed to do this and we made our first experiment + on that day. The ration tasted very sweet compared with dogs' meat and was + so scanty in amount that it left one painfully empty. + </p> + <p> + The light was so atrocious for marching that, after stumbling along for + two and a half miles, we were obliged to give up the attempt and camp, + spending the day in sleeping-bags. + </p> + <p> + In the evening at 9.30 P.M. the sun appeared for a brief moment and the + wind subsided. Another stage was therefore attempted but at considerable + cost, for we staggered along in the bewildering light, continually falling + over unseen sastrugi. The surface was undulating with a tendency to down + grades. Two sets of sastrugi were found crossing one another, and, in the + absence of the sun, we could not be sure of the course, so the camp was + pitched niter five miles. + </p> + <p> + "January 1, 1913.—Outside, an overcast sky and falling snow. Mertz + was not up to his usual form and we decided not to attempt blundering + along in the bad light, believing that the rest would be advantageous to + him. + </p> + <p> + "He did not complain at all except of the dampness of his sleeping-bag, + though when I questioned him particularly he admitted that he had pains in + the abdomen. As I had a continuous gnawing sensation in the stomach, I + took it that he had the same, possibly more acute. + </p> + <p> + "After New Year's Day he expressed a dislike to biscuit, which seemed + rather strange. Then he suddenly had a desire for glaxo and our small + store was made over to him, I taking a considerable ration of the dogs' + meat in exchange. + </p> + <p> + "It was no use, however, for when we tried to cover a few more miles the + exertion told very heavily on him, and it was plain that he was in a more + serious condition than myself. + </p> + <p> + "January 2.—The same abominable weather. We eat only a few ounces of + chocolate each day. + </p> + <p> + "January 3.—In the evening the sky broke and the sun looked through + the clouds. We were not long in packing up and getting on the way. The + night was chilly and Mertz got frost-bitten fingers, so camp was pitched + after four miles one thousand two hundred and thirty yards. + </p> + <p> + "January 4.—The sun was shining and we had intended rising at 10 + A.M., but Mertz was not well and thought that the rest would be good for + him. I spent the time improving some of the gear, mending Mertz's clothing + and cooking a quantity of the meat. + </p> + <p> + "January 5.—The sky was overcast, snow was falling, and there was a + strong wind. Mertz suggested that as the conditions were so bad we should + delay another day. + </p> + <p> + "Lying in the damp bags was wretched and was not doing either of us any + good, but what was to be done? Outside, the conditions were abominable. My + companion was evidently weaker than I, and it was apparently quite true + that he was not making much of the dogs' meat. + </p> + <p> + "January 6.—A better day but the sky remained overcast. Mertz agreed + to try another stage." + </p> + <p> + The grade was slightly downhill and the wind well behind. Unfortunately + the surface was slippery and irregular and falls were frequent. These told + very much upon my companion until, after consistently demurring, he at + last consented to ride on the sledge. With the wind blowing behind us, it + required no great exertion to bring the load along, though it would often + pull up suddenly against sastrugi. After we had covered two and a half + miles, Mertz became so cold through inaction in the wind that there was + nothing to do but pitch the tent. + </p> + <p> + Mertz appeared to be depressed and, after the short meal, sank back into + his bag without saying much. Occasionally, during the day, I would ask him + how he felt, or we would return to the old subject of food. It was agreed + that on our arrival on board the 'Aurora' Mertz was to make penguin + omelettes, for we had never forgotten the excellence of those we had eaten + just before leaving the Hut. + </p> + <p> + Reviewing the situation, I found that we were one hundred miles south-east + of Winter Quarters where food and plenty awaited us. At the time we had + still ordinary rations for several days. How short a distance it would + seem to the vigorous, but what a lengthy journey for the weak and + famished! + </p> + <p> + The skin was peeling off our bodies and a very poor substitute remained + which burst readily and rubbed raw in many places. One day, I remember, + Mertz ejaculated, "Just a moment," and, reaching over, lifted from my ear + a perfect skin-cast. I was able to do the same for him. As we never took + off our clothes, the peelings of hair and skin from our bodies worked down + into our under-trousers and socks, and regular clearances were made. + </p> + <p> + During the evening of the 6th I made the following note in my diary: + </p> + <p> + "A long and wearisome night. If only I could get on; but I must stop with + Xavier. He does not appear to be improving and both our chances are going + now." + </p> + <p> + "January 7.—Up at 8 A.M., it having been arranged last night that we + would go on to-day at all costs, sledge-sailing, with Xavier in his bag on + the sledge." It was a sad blow to me to find that Mertz was in a weak + state and required helping in and out of his bag. He needed rest for a few + hours at least before he could think of travelling. "I have to turn in + again to kill time and also to keep warm, for I feel the cold very much + now." + </p> + <p> + "At 10 A.M. I get up to dress Xavier and prepare food, but find him in a + kind of fit." Coming round a few minutes later, he exchanged a few words + and did not seem to realize that anything had happened. "... Obviously we + can't go on to-day. It is a good day though the light is bad, the sun just + gleaming through the clouds. This is terrible; I don't mind for myself but + for others. I pray to God to help us." + </p> + <p> + "I cook some thick cocoa for Xavier and give him beef-tea; he is better + after noon, but very low—I have to lift him up to drink." + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon he had several more fits, then became delirious and + talked incoherently until midnight, when he appeared to fall off into a + peaceful slumber. So I toggled up the sleeping-bag and retired worn out + into my own. After a couple of hours, having felt no movement from my + companion, I stretched out an arm and found that he was stiff. + </p> + <p> + My comrade had been accepted into "the peace that passeth all + understanding." It was my fervent hope that he had been received where + sterling qualities and a high mind reap their due reward. In his life we + loved him; he was a man of character, generous and of noble parts. + </p> + <p> + For hours I lay in the bag, rolling over in my mind all that lay behind + and the chance of the future. I seemed to stand alone on the wide shores + of the world—and what a short step to enter the unknown future! + </p> + <p> + My physical condition was such that I felt I might collapse in a moment. + The gnawing in the stomach had developed there a permanent weakness, so + that it was not possible to hold myself up in certain positions. Several + of my toes commenced to blacken and fester near the tips and the nails + worked loose. + </p> + <p> + Outside, the bowl of chaos was brimming with drift-snow and I wondered how + I would manage to break and pitch camp single-handed. There appeared to be + little hope of reaching the Hut. It was easy to sleep on in the bag, and + the weather was cruel outside. But inaction is hard to brook, and I + thought of Service's lines: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Buck up, do your damndest and fight, + It's the plugging away that will win you the day. +</pre> + <p> + If I failed to reach the Hut it would be something done to reach some + prominent point likely to catch the eye of a search party, where a cairn + might be erected and our diaries cached. And so I commenced to modify the + sledge and camping gear to meet fresh requirements. + </p> + <p> + The sky remained clouded, but the wind fell off to a calm which lasted for + several hours. I took the opportunity to set to work on the sledge, sawing + it in halves with a pocket tool. A mast was made out of one of the rails + of the discarded half of the sledge and a spar was cut from the other + rail. The sledge-meter, very much battered, was still serviceable. Lastly, + the load was cut down to a minimum by the elimination of all but the + barest necessities. + </p> + <p> + Late on the evening of the 8th I took the body of Mertz, wrapped up in his + sleeping-bag, outside the tent, piled snow blocks around it and raised a + rough cross made of the two half-runners of the sledge. + </p> + <p> + On January 9 the weather was overcast and fairly thick drift was flying in + a wind reaching about fifty miles an hour. As certain matters still + required attention and my chances of re-erecting the tent were rather + doubtful, if I had decided to move on, the start was delayed. + </p> + <p> + "I read the Burial Service over Xavier this afternoon. As there is little + chance of my reaching human aid alive. I greatly regret inability at the + moment to set out the detail of coastline met with for three hundred miles + travelled and observations of glacier and ice-formations, etc.; the most + of which latter are, of course, committed to my head. + </p> + <p> + "The approximate location of the camp is latitude 68 degrees 2' S., + longitude 145 degrees 9' E. This is dead reckoning, as the theodolite legs + have been out of action for some time, splinted together to form + tent-props. I believe the truth lies nearer latitude 67 degrees 57' S., + longitude 145 degrees 20' E., as the wind must have drifted us to the + north." + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon I cut up Mertz's burberry jacket and roughly sewed it + to a large canvas clothes-bag, making a sail which could be readily set or + furled, so as to save delay in starting out or in camping. + </p> + <p> + January 10 was an impossible day for travelling on account of thick drift + and high wind. I spent part of the time in reckoning up the amount of food + remaining and in cooking the rest of the dogs' meat; the last device + enabling me to leave behind some of the kerosene, of which there was still + a good supply. Late in the afternoon the wind fell and the sun peered + amongst the clouds just as I was in the middle of a long job riveting and + lashing the broken shovel. + </p> + <p> + It was on January 11—a beautiful, calm day of sunshine—that I + set out over a good surface with a slight down grade. From the start my + feet felt lumpy and sore. They had become so painful after a mile of + walking that I decided to make an examination of them on the spot, sitting + in the sun on the sledge. The sight of my feet gave me quite a shock, for + the thickened skin of the soles had separated in each case as a complete + layer, and abundant watery fluid had escaped into the socks. The new skin + underneath was very much abraded and raw. + </p> + <p> + I did what appeared to be the best thing under the stances: smeared the + new skin with lanoline, of which there was a good store, and with bandages + bound the skin soles back in place, as they were comfortable and soft in + contact with the raw surfaces. Outside the bandages I wore six pairs of + thick woollen socks, fur boots and a crampon over-shoe of soft leather. + Then I removed most of my clothing and bathed in the glorious heat of the + sun. A tingling sensation seemed to spread throughout my whole body, and I + felt stronger and better. + </p> + <p> + When the day commenced with ideal weather I thought I would cover a long + distance, but at 5.30 P.M., after six and a quarter miles, I felt + nerve-worn and had to camp, "so worn that had it not been a delightful + evening, I should not have found strength to erect the tent." + </p> + <p> + Though the medical outfit was limited, there were a fair number of + bandages and on camping I devoted much time to tending raw patches all + over the body, festering fingers and inflamed nostrils. + </p> + <p> + High wind and much drift put travelling out of the question on January 12, + and in any case my feet needed a rest. + </p> + <p> + "January 13.—The wind subsided and the snow cleared off at noon. The + afternoon was beautifully fine. Descended hard ice-slopes over many + crevasses—almost all descent—but surface cut my feet up; at 8 + P.M. camped, having done five and three-quarter miles—painful feet—on + camping find feet worse than ever; things look bad but shall persevere. It + is now 11 P.M. and the glacier is firing off like artillery—appears + to send up great jets of imprisoned air." + </p> + <p> + During the march Aurora Peak showed up to the west, about twenty miles + away, across the Mertz Glacier. I felt happy at thus fixing my position, + and at the sight of the far plateau which led onwards to Winter Quarters. + </p> + <p> + The glacier was the next obstacle to advance. To the south-west it + descended from the plateau in immense broken folds. Pressing northward it + was torn into the jumbled crush of serac-ice, sparkling beneath an + unclouded sun. The idea of diverging to the west and rounding the + ice-falls occurred to me, but the detours involved other difficulties, so + I strove to pick out the best track across the valley. + </p> + <p> + A high wind which blew on the morning of the 14th diminished in strength + by noon and allowed me to get away. The sun was so warm that the puckered + ice underfoot was covered with a film of water and in some places small + trickles ran away to disappear into crevasses. + </p> + <p> + Though the course was downhill to the Mertz Glacier, the sledge required a + good deal of pulling owing to the wet runners. At 9 P.M., after travelling + five miles, I pitched camp in the bed of the glacier. + </p> + <p> + Between 9.30 P.M. and 11 P.M. the "cannonading" heard on the previous + night recommenced. The sounds, resembling the explosions of heavy guns, + usually started higher up the glacier and ended down towards the sea. When + I first heard them, I put my head outside the tent to see what was going + on. The reports came at random from every direction, but there was no + visible evidence as to how they were produced. Without a doubt they had + something to do with the re-freezing and splitting of the ice owing to the + evening chill; but the sounds seemed far too loud to be explained by this + cause alone. + </p> + <p> + January 15—the date on which all the summer sledging parties were + due at the Hut! It was overcast and snowing early in the day, and in a few + hours the sun broke out and shone warmly. The travelling was so heavy over + a soft snowy surface, partly melting, that I gave up, after one mile, and + camped. + </p> + <p> + At 7 P.M. the surface had not improved, the sky was thickly obscured and + snow fell. At 10 P.M. the snow was coming down heavily, and, since there + were many crevasses in the vicinity, I resolved to wait. + </p> + <p> + On the 16th at 2 A.M. the snow was as thick as ever, but at 5 A.M. the + atmosphere lightened and the sun appeared. + </p> + <p> + Without delay I broke camp. A favourable breeze sprang up, and with sail + set I managed to proceed through the snowy "deluge" in short stages. The + snow clung in lumps to the runners, which had to be scraped frequently. I + passed some broken ridges and sank into several holes leading down to + crevasses out of which it was possible to scramble easily. + </p> + <p> + After laboriously toiling up one long slope, I was just catching my breath + at the top and the sledge was running easily when I noticed that the + surface beneath my feet fell away steeply in front. I suddenly realized + that I was on the brink of a great blue hole like a quarry. The sledge was + following of its own accord and was rapidly gaining speed, so I turned + and, exerting every effort, was just able to hold it back by means of the + hauling-line from the edge of the abyss. I should think that there must + have been an interval of quite a minute during which I held my ground + without being able to make it budge. Then it slowly came my way, and the + imminent danger was past. + </p> + <p> + The day's march was an extremely hard five miles. Before turning in I had + an extra supper of jelly soup, made by boiling down some of the dogs' + sinews, strengthened with a little pemmican. The acute enjoyment of eating + under these circumstances compensates in a slight measure for the + suffering of starvation. + </p> + <p> + January 17 was another day of overcast weather and falling snow. Delay + meant a reduction in the ration which was low enough already, so there was + nothing to do but go on. + </p> + <p> + When I got away at 8 A.M. I found that the pulling was easier than it had + been on the previous day. Nevertheless I covered only two miles and had to + consider myself fortunate in not winding up the whole story then and + there. This is what happened, following the account in my diary. + </p> + <p> + "Going up a long, fairly steep slope, deeply covered with soft snow, broke + through lid of crevasse but caught myself at thighs, got out, turned fifty + yards to the north, then attempted to cross trend of crevasse, there being + no indication of it; a few moments later found myself dangling fourteen + feet below on end of rope in crevasse—sledge creeping to mouth—had + time to say to myself, 'so this is the end,' expecting the sledge every + moment to crash on my head and all to go to the unseen bottom—then + thought of the food uneaten on the sledge; but as the sledge pulled up + without letting me down, thought of Providence giving me another chance." + The chance was very small considering my weak condition. The width of the + crevasse was about six feet, so I hung freely in space, turning slowly + round. + </p> + <p> + A great effort brought a knot in the rope within my grasp, and, after a + moment's rest, I was able to draw myself up and reach another, and, at + length, hauled myself on to the overhanging snow-lid into which the rope + had cut. Then, when I was carefully climbing out on to the surface, a + further section of the lid gave way, precipitating me once more to the + full length of the rope. + </p> + <p> + Exhausted, weak and chilled (for my hands were bare and pounds of snow had + got inside my clothing) I hung with the firm conviction that all was over + except the passing. Below was a black chasm; it would be but the work of a + moment to slip from the harness, then all the pain and toil would be over. + It was a rare situation, a rare temptation—a chance to quit small + things for great—to pass from the petty exploration of a planet to + the contemplation of vaster worlds beyond. But there was all eternity for + the last and, at its longest, the present would be but short. I felt + better for the thought. + </p> + <p> + My strength was fast ebbing; in a few minutes it would be too late. It was + the occasion for a supreme attempt. New power seemed to come as I + addressed myself to one last tremendous effort. The struggle occupied some + time, but by a miracle I rose slowly to the surface. This time I emerged + feet first, still holding on to the rope, and pushed myself out, extended + at full length, on the snow—on solid ground. Then came the reaction, + and I could do nothing for quite an hour. + </p> + <p> + The tent was erected in slow stages and I then had a little food. Later on + I lay in the sleeping-bag, thinking things over. It was a time when the + mood of the Persian philosopher appealed to me: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Unborn To-morrow and dead Yesterday, + Why fret about them if To-day be sweet? +</pre> + <p> + I was confronted with this problem: whether it was better to enjoy life + for a few days, sleeping and eating my fill until the provisions gave out, + or to "plug on" again in hunger with the prospect of plunging at any + moment into eternity without the great luxury and pleasure of food. And + then an idea presented itself which greatly improved my prospects. It was + to construct a ladder from alpine rope; one end of which was to be secured + to the bow of the sledge and the other to be carried over my left shoulder + and loosely attached to the sledge harness. Thus, if I fell into a + crevasse again, it would be easy for me, even though weakened by + starvation, to scramble out again by the ladder, provided the sledge was + not also engulphed. + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding the possibilities of the rope ladder, I could not sleep + properly at all; my nerves had been so overtaxed. All night considerable + wind and drift continued. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th it was overcast and light snow was falling. I resolved "to go + ahead and leave the rest to Providence." + </p> + <p> + As they wallowed through the deep snow my feet and legs kept breaking + through into space. Then I went right under, but the sledge was held back + and the ladder "proved trumps." A few minutes later I was down again, but + I emerged again without much exertion, half-smothered with snow. Faintness + overcame me and I stopped to camp, though only a short distance had been + covered. + </p> + <p> + All around me was a leaden glare, the snow clouds "corralling" me in. The + sun had not shown up for some days and I was eager to see it once more, + not only that it might show up the landscape, but for its cheerful + influence and life-giving energy. A few days previously my condition had + been improving, but now it was going back. + </p> + <p> + During the night of the 18th loud booming noises, sharp cracks and muffled + growls issued form the neighbouring crevasses and kept waking me up. At + times one could feel a vibration accompanying the growling sounds, and I + concluded that the ice was in rapid motion. + </p> + <p> + The sun at last appeared on the 19th, and I was off by 8.30 A.M. The whole + surface was a network of crevasses, some very wide. Along one after + another of these I dragged the sledge until a spot was reached where the + snow-bridge looked to be firm. Here I plunged across, risking the + consequences. + </p> + <p> + After three hours' marching nothing serious had happened and I found + myself on safer ground with a "pimply" surface visible ahead, close under + the slopes of the highlands. Once on this I became over-reliant, and in + consequence sank several times into narrow fissures. + </p> + <p> + At 1 P.M. the Mertz Glacier was at last crossed and I had reached the + rising hills on its western side. Overlooking the camp, five hundred feet + above the glacier, were beetling, crevassed crags, but I could trace out a + good road, free from pitfalls, leading to the plateau, at an elevation of + three thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + To lighten my load for the climb I threw away alpine rope, finnesko + crampons, sundry pairs of worn crampons and socks, while I rubbed a + composition on the sledge-runners which prevented them from sticking to + wet snow. + </p> + <p> + January 20 was a wretched day; overcast, with wind and light drift. In + desperation I got away at 2 P.M. in a wind which proved to be of + considerable assistance. I could see nothing of my surroundings; one thing + was certain, and that was that the ascent had commenced and every foot + took me upward. The day's work amounted to about two and a half miles. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st the sun shone brightly and there was a good following wind. + Through deep snow I zigzagged up for three miles before deciding to camp. + </p> + <p> + Wind and drift prevailed early on the 22nd but fell away towards noon, and + I was then favoured with a glorious sunny day. Away to the north was a + splendid view of the open sea; it looked so beautiful and friendly that I + longed to be down near it. Six miles had been covered during the day, but + I felt very weak towards the end on account of the heavy pulling. + </p> + <p> + During the early hours of the 23rd the sun was visible, but about 8 A.M. + the clouds sagged low, the wind rose and everything became blotted out in + a swirl of driving snow. + </p> + <p> + I wandered on through it for several hours, the sledge capsizing at times + owing to the strength of the wind. It was not possible to keep an accurate + course, for even the wind changed direction as the day wore on. Underfoot + there was soft snow which I found comfortable for my sore feet, but which + made the sledge drag heavily at times. + </p> + <p> + When camp was pitched at 4 P.M. I reckoned that the distance covered in a + straight line had been three and a half miles. + </p> + <p> + Erecting the tent single-handed in the high wind was a task which required + much patience and some skill. The poles were erected first and then the + tent was gathered up in the proper form and taken to the windward side of + the legs where it was weighted down. The flounce on the windward side was + got into position and piled up with snow blocks. Other blocks of snow had + previously been placed in a ring round the legs in readiness to be tumbled + on to the rest of the flounce when the tent was quickly slipped over the + apex of the poles. In very windy weather it was often as much as two hours + after halting before I would be cosy within the shelter of the tent. + </p> + <p> + High wind and dense driving snow persisted throughout the 24th and I made + five and a half miles, sitting on the sledge most of the time with the + sail up. + </p> + <p> + The blizzard continued on the 25th, but after the trying experience of the + previous two days, I did not feel well enough to go on. Outside, the snow + fell in "torrents," piled up round the tent and pressed in until it was no + bigger than a coffin, of which it reminded me. + </p> + <p> + I passed most of the day doctoring myself, attending to raw and inflamed + places. Tufts of my beard and hair came out, and the snowy floor of the + tent was strewn with it at every camp. + </p> + <p> + "January 26.—I went on again in dense, driving snow. There was no + need of the sail. The wind, which was behind, caught the sledge and + bundled it along so that, though over a soft surface of snow, the + travelling was rapid. The snow was in large, rounded grains, and beat on + the tent like hail. Altogether nine miles were covered. + </p> + <p> + "January 27.—Blizzard-bound again. The previous day's exertions were + too much for me to undertake the same again without a long rest. + </p> + <p> + "January 28,—In the morning the wind had moderated very much but the + sky remained overcast and snow continued to fall. It was a long job + digging the tent out. Soon after the start the sun gleamed and the weather + improved. The three-thousand-foot crest of the plateau had been crossed + and I was bearing down rapidly on Commonwealth Bay, the vicinity of which + showed up as a darker patch on the clouds of the north-west horizon. + </p> + <p> + "The evening was fine and I really began to feel that Winter Quarters were + approaching. To increase my excitement Madigan Nunatak came into view for + a time in the clear, evening light. Distance covered, over eight miles." + </p> + <p> + The calm of the previous evening was broken again, and I started on the + morning of January 29 in considerable drift and a fairly strong wind. + After going five miles I had miraculous good fortune. + </p> + <p> + I was travelling along on an even down grade and was wondering how long + the two pounds of food which remained would last, when something dark + loomed through the drift a short distance away to the right. All sorts of + possibilities fled through my mind as I headed the sledge for it. The + unexpected happened—it was a cairn of snow erected by McLean, + Hodgeman and Hurley, who had been out searching for us. On the top of the + mound was a bag of food, left on the chance that it might be picked up, + while in a tin was a note stating the bearing and distance of the mound + from Aladdin's Cave (E. 30 degrees S., distance twenty-three miles), that + the Ship had arrived at the Hut and was waiting, that Amundsen had reached + the Pole, and that Scott was remaining another year in Antarctica. + </p> + <p> + It was rather a singular fact that the search party only left this mound + at eight o'clock on the morning of that very day (January 29). It was + about 2 P.M. when I found it. Thus, during the night of the 28th, our + camps had been only about five miles apart. + </p> + <p> + With plenty of food, I speedily felt stimulated and revived, and + anticipated reaching the Hut in a day or two, for there was then not more + than twenty-three miles to cover. Alas, however, there was to be another + delay. I was without crampons—they had been thrown away on the + western side of Mertz Glacier—and in the strong wind was not able to + stand up on the slippery ice of the coastal slopes. The result was that I + sat on the sledge and ran along with the wind, nibbling at the food as I + went. The sledge made so much leeway that near the end of the day, after + fourteen miles, I reckoned that I had been carried to the east of + Aladdin's Cave. The course was therefore changed to the west, but the wind + came down almost broadside-on to the sledge, and it was swept away. The + only thing to do was to camp. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th I cut up the box of the theodolite and into two pieces of wood + stuck as many screws and tacks as I could procure from the sledge-meter. + In the repair-bag there were still a few ice-nails which at this time were + of great use. Late in the day the wind fell off, and I started westward + over the ice-slopes with the pieces of nail-studded wood lashed to my + feet. + </p> + <p> + After six miles these improvised crampons broke up, and the increasing + wind got me into difficulties. Finally, the sledge slipped sideways into a + narrow crevasse and was caught by the boom (which crossed from side to + side at the lower part of the mast). I was not strong enough for the job + of extricating it straight away, and by the time I had got it safely on + the ice, the wind had increased still more. So I pitched camp. + </p> + <p> + The blizzard was in full career on January 31 and I spent all day and + until late at night trying to make the crampons serviceable, but without + success. + </p> + <p> + On February 1 the wind and drift subsided late in the afternoon, and I + clearly saw to the west the beacon which marked Aladdin's Cave. + </p> + <p> + At 7 P.M. I reached this haven within the ice, and never again was I to + have the ordeal of pitching the tent. Inside the cave were three oranges + and a pineapple which had been brought from the Ship. It was wonderful + once more to be in the land of such things! + </p> + <p> + I waited to mend one of the crampons and then started off for the Hut; but + a blizzard had commenced. To descend the five miles of steep icy slopes + with my miserable crampons, in the weak state in which I found myself, + would only have been as a last resort. So I camped in the comfortable cave + and hoped for better weather next day. + </p> + <p> + The high wind, rising to a hurricane at times, continued for a whole week + with dense drift until the 8th. I spent the long hours making crampons of + a new pattern, eating and sleeping. Eventually I became so anxious that I + used to sit outside the cave for long spells, watching for a lull in the + wind. + </p> + <p> + At length I resolved to go down in the blizzard, sitting on the sledge as + long as possible, blown along by the wind. I was making preparations for a + start when the wind suddenly decreased and my opportunity had come. + </p> + <p> + In a couple of hours I was within one mile and a half of the Hut. There + was no sign of the Ship lying in the offing, but I comforted myself with + the thought that she might be still at the anchorage and have swung + inshore so as to be hidden by the ice-cliffs, or on the other hand that + Captain Davis might have been along the coast to the east searching there. + </p> + <p> + But even as I gazed about seeking for a clue, a speck on the north-west + horizon caught my eye and my hopes went down. It looked like a distant + ship; it might well have been the 'Aurora'. Well, what matter! the long + journey was at an end-a terrible chapter of my life was finished! + </p> + <p> + Then the rocks around Winter Quarters began to come into view, part of the + basin of the boat harbour appeared, and lo! there were human figures! They + almost seemed unreal—I was in a dream—but after a brief moment + one of them saw me and waved an arm, I replied, there was a commotion and + they all ran towards the Hut. Then they were lost, for the crest of the + first steep slope hid them. It almost seemed to me that they had run away + to hide. + </p> + <p> + Minutes passed, and I slowly went along with the sledge. Then a head rose + over the brow of the hill and there was Bickerton, breathless after a long + run. I expect he considered for a while which one of us it was. Soon we + had shaken hands and he knew all in a few brief words, and I learned that + the Ship had left earlier in the day. Madigan, McLean, Bage and Hodgeman + arrived, and then a new-comer—Jeffryes. Five men had remained behind + to make a search for our party, and Jeffryes was a new wireless operator + brought down by Captain Davis. + </p> + <p> + We were soon at the Hut where I found that full preparations had been made + for wintering a second year. The weather was calm and the Ship was no + distance away so I decided to recall her by wireless. The masts at the Hut + had been re-erected during the summer, and on board the 'Aurora' Hannam + was provided with a wireless receiving set. Jeffryes had arranged with + Hannam to call up at 8, 9 and 10 P.M. for several evenings while the + 'Aurora' was "within range" in case there were any news of my party. A + message recalling the Ship was therefore sent off and repeated at frequent + intervals till past midnight. + </p> + <p> + Next morning there was a forty-mile wind when we went outside, but away + across Commonwealth Bay to the west the 'Aurora' could be seen close to + the face of the ice-cliffs. She had returned in response to the call and + was steaming up and down, waiting for the wind to moderate. + </p> + <p> + We immediately set to work getting all the records, instruments and + personal gear ready to be taken down to the boat harbour in anticipation + of calm weather during the day. + </p> + <p> + The wind chose to continue and towards evening was in the sixties, while + the barometer fell. During the afternoon Hodgeman went across to the + western ridge and saw that the Ship was still in the Bay. The sea was so + heavy that the motor-boat could never have lived through it. + </p> + <p> + That night Jeffryes sent another message, which we learned afterwards was + not received, in which Captain Davis was given the option of remaining + until calm weather supervened or of leaving at once for the Western Base. + I felt that the decision should be left to him, as he could appreciate + exactly the situation of the Western Base and what the Ship could be + expected to do amid the ice at that season of the year. The time was + already past when, according to my written instructions left for him on + arrival at Commonwealth Bay, the 'Aurora' should sail west to relieve Wild + and his party. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 10th there was no sign of the Ship and evidently + Captain Davis had decided to wait no longer, knowing that further delay + would endanger the chances of picking up the eight men who had elected to + winter on the shelf-ice one thousand five hundred miles to the west. At + such a critical moment determination, fearless and swift, was necessary, + and, in coming to his momentous decision, Captain Davis acted well and for + the best interests of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + A long voyage lay before the 'Aurora' through many miles of ice-strewn + sea, swept by intermittent blizzards and shrouded now in midnight + darkness. We still fostered the hope that the vessel's coal-supply would + be sufficient for her to return to Adelie Land and make an attempt to pick + us up. But it was not to be. + </p> + <p> + The long Antarctic winter was fast approaching and we turned to meet it + with resolution, knowing that if the 'Aurora' failed us in early March, + that the early summer of the same year would bring relief. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV THE QUEST OF THE SOUTH MAGNETIC POLE + </h2> + <h3> + Dr. R. BAGE + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Send me your strongest, those who never fail. + I'm the Blizzard, King of the Southern Trail! + Sledging song. +</pre> + <p> + On the afternoon of November 10, at Aladdin's Cave, after a convivial + hoosh, Webb, Hurley and I said good-bye to Dr. Mawson's party and made off + south for the eleven and three-quarter mile cave where our Supporting + Party, Murphy, Hunter and Laseron, were waiting for us. At 7 P.M. we + started almost at a run over the smooth ice, to the accompaniment of + hearty cheers from Dr. Mawson, Ninnis, and Mertz; two of whom we were + never to see again. + </p> + <p> + Half a mile of this easy going, and we were on snow for the first time + with a loaded sledge. Uphill snow, too, and the wind rising, so it was no + small relief when we finally made the Cathedral Grotto at 11.30 P.M., and + found Murphy's tent pitched alongside it. The wind by this time was about + forty-five miles per hour and, it being nearly dusk, the crevasses—a + five-mile belt—had been fairly difficult to negotiate. + </p> + <p> + We soon had the cave clear of snow, had a good meal and then slept the + sleep of the just, feeling well content with the first day's work—eleven + and a half miles from home at an altitude of one thousand nine hundred + feet. We were off at last on a search for the Magnetic Pole. + </p> + <p> + On the morrow some time was spent in rearranging the loads. Finally, both + parties moved off south into heavy wind and fairly thick drift. What with + the ground rising steadily, the pressure of the wind and our lack of + condition, two and a quarter hours of solid work realized only two and a + quarter miles; so we decided to camp. + </p> + <p> + All the night it blew hard, between seventy and eighty miles per hour, and + next day it was still blowing and drifting heavily. Our tent was a good + deal smaller than Murphy's, and, as Webb and Hurley are both six-footers, + we always had to put all gear outside when the sleeping-bags were down. + This is really a good thing when the weather is bad, as one is not tempted + to stay in the bag all the time. + </p> + <p> + Early in the afternoon as we were all feeling hungry and had been in bags + long enough to feel cold, although the weather was quite warm (10 degrees + F.), we rolled bags, and, when our frozen burberrys were once fairly on, + quite enjoyed ourselves. After a boil-up and a few minutes' "run" round in + the drift and wind, we did some stitching on our light drill tent, which + was making very heavy weather of it, although pitched close under the lee + of Murphy's strong japara tent. A little reading, some shouted + unintelligible conversation with the other tent, another boil-up, and, + last but not least, a smoke, found us quite ready for another sleep. + </p> + <p> + Next day (November 13), the wind having dropped to thirty-five miles per + hour, we set out about 11 A.M. in light drift. The sky was still overcast, + so the light was very trying. In the worst fogs at home one can at any + rate see something of the ground on which one is treading; in Adelie Land, + even when the air was clear of snow, it was easy to bump against a + four-foot sastruga without seeing it. It always reminded me most of a fog + at sea: a ship creeping "o'er the hueless, viewless deep." + </p> + <p> + When 6 P.M. arrived we had only covered five and a half miles, but were + all thoroughly exhausted and glad to camp. Lunch had been rather + barbarously served in the lee of the sledge. First came plasmon biscuit, + broken with the ice-axe into pieces small enough to go into the mouth + through the funnel of a burberry helmet; then followed two ounces of + chocolate, frozen rather too hard to have a definite taste; and finally a + luscious morsel—two ounces of butter, lovingly thawed-out in the + mouth to get the full flavour. Lunches like these in wind and drift are + uncomfortable enough for every one to be eager to start again as soon as + possible. + </p> + <p> + By nine o'clock that night the wind had increased to a full gale. We were + in camp all the 14th and the 15th, the wind rising to eighty-five miles + per hour with very heavy drift during the small hours of the 15th. This + was its maximum, and by the afternoon it was down to about seventy miles + per hour with a clear sky and light drift. We donned our burberrys (I + should like to give Hurley's "Ode to a Frozen Burberry") and dug out our + sledges, both of which were completely buried in a ramp forty yards long; + the shovel projecting nine inches above the surface. + </p> + <p> + While we were engaged on this work, I overheard the following conversation + being shouted in the Supporting Party's tent: + </p> + <p> + FIRST VOICE. I'm hungry. Who will go out and get the food-bag? + </p> + <p> + SLEEPY VOICE. The food-weights ** are in the cooker. + </p> + <p> + FIRST VOICE. No they're not. + </p> + <p> + SLEEPY VOICE. Saw them there yesterday, must be somewhere in the tent. + </p> + <p> + FIRST VOICE. No they're not... I ate them last night. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Until amounts were known by experience, rations were weighed by a +small balance whose various weights were small calico bags filled with +chocolate. +</pre> + <p> + The exercise, a good hoosh and above all the clear sky made us take a less + morbid view of the fact that we were six days out from the Hut and only + nineteen and a half miles away. + </p> + <p> + Early on the 16th we could hear above the roar of the wind the drift still + hissing against the tent, but it had diminished by nine o'clock breakfast. + </p> + <p> + By common consent it was agreed that our loads were too heavy for the + conditions under which we were working. I accordingly decided to drop one + hundred-pound bag. We had already saved nearly one week's food for three + men and had not yet worked up our full sledging appetites. The bag was + raised to the top of a six-foot snow mound, a thermograph being placed + alongside. As we now seemed to be on plateau snow, I thought it wise to + leave behind my heavy boots and Swiss crampons. + </p> + <p> + By 4 P.M. the wind had decreased to a light breeze. Work was very slow on + a steeper up grade, and at six o'clock clouds came up quickly from the + south-east and snow began to fall, so we camped at 7.30 P.M. thoroughly + tired out. At twenty-four and a half miles the altitude was three thousand + two hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + The snow was a false alarm. It ceased at 9 P.M. and the wind subsided to a + dead calm!! + </p> + <p> + Good headway was being made against a strong breeze next day, when it was + noticed that two gallons of kerosene were missing off the supporters' + sledge. While Murphy and Laseron went back two miles to recover them, Webb + secured a magnetic declination and I took sun observations for time and + azimuth. + </p> + <p> + We were off early on the 18th and for the first time were able to + appreciate the "scenery." Glorious sunshine overhead and all around + brilliant snow, dappled by livid shadows; very different from the smooth, + soft, white mantle usually attributed to the surface of Antarctica by + those in the homeland. Here and there, indeed, were smooth patches which + we called bowling-greens, but hard and slippery as polished marble, with + much the same translucent appearance. Practically all the country, + however, was a jumbled mass of small, hard sastrugi, averaging perhaps a + foot in height, with an occasional gnarled old veteran twice as high. To + either side the snow rolled away for miles. In front, we made our first + acquaintance with the accursed next ridge, which is always ahead of you on + the plateau. Generally we passed from one ridge to another so gradually + that we could never say for certain just when we had topped one; still the + next ridge was always there. + </p> + <p> + The weather had lately been colder with the increased altitude. The + temperature in daily range varied from -10 degrees F. to 9 degrees F. It + was so hot in the sun, on the 18th, that lunching inside the tent was + unbearable. We preferred its shadow outside in the breeze. + </p> + <p> + Wearing a minimum of clothes, we marched along gaily during the afternoon. + The country changed in a wonderful manner, the sastrugi gradually becoming + smaller and finally disappearing. The surface was so soft that a bamboo + would easily penetrate it for a foot. Evidently it was fairly old and laid + down in calm weather, for excavations showed that it became more compact + without any hard wind-swept layers marking successive snowfalls. + </p> + <p> + It was proved that we were commencing a descent of one thousand five + hundred feet down the north side of a valley feeding the Mertz Glacier. In + order to explain the surface, smooth and unruffled by any wind, the + question arose as to whether it is possible that there is a cushion of + dead air more or less permanently over the north side of this depression. + </p> + <p> + On the soft surface we were able to dispense with crampons. Hitherto, it + had been impossible to haul over a slippery surface in finnesko. Now we + felt as light as air and were vastly cheered when some one calculated that + the six of us were saving I don't know how many thousand foot-pounds of + work every mile. With a run of twelve miles we were forty-two miles from + Winter Quarters. + </p> + <p> + Another splendid day on the 19th. We had lunch in a curious cup-shaped + hollow, estimated to be two miles wide and one hundred and fifty feet + deep. Webb obtained here an approximate dip of 88 degrees 44',** a very + promising increase from the Hut (87 degrees 27'). + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** At the South Magnetic Pole the dip is 90 degrees. +</pre> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Map showing track of the southern sledging party from the Main Base + </p> + <p> + Snow-blindness had now begun to make itself felt for the first time. I for + one had my first experience of it that afternoon. During the halt at lunch + I put on yellow goggles in place of the smoked ones I had been wearing, + and in a quarter of an hour the change of colour had 'settled' my eyes for + the time being. + </p> + <p> + The afternoon was very hot. The thermometer stood at 10 degrees F. at 4 + P.M., but the still air made it almost insupportable. By the time the load + was hauled up out of the basin, we were streaming with perspiration. + </p> + <p> + Before halting, we sighted a dark, distant ridge, thirty miles away, and + the course was corrected by its bearing. Our extravagant hopes of finding + a permanently calm region had been dwindling for the last few miles, as a + hard bottom, a few inches under the surface, had become evident. They were + finally dispelled by a south-west wind springing up during the night. + </p> + <p> + As every one was beginning to feel the hard work after another oppressive + afternoon on the 20th, we decided to have an easy march next day and to + build our first depot. Of course we had hoped to have been farther out + before sending back the supporting party, but the weather had settled the + question. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st, taking things as easily as a thirty-five mile wind would + permit, we pulled on, up and down small undulations till 4 P.M. when we + encountered a small rise, with the next ridge a considerable distance + ahead. The depot was to be built here. + </p> + <p> + Webb at once proceeded to take full magnetic declination, time and azimuth + observations, Laseron recording for him. Murphy put in a miserable hour + over the primus melting snow. He was rather snow-blind and his eyes must + have contributed a good deal of water to the pot. The water was poured + into food-bags filled with snow, which were buried, encircled by wire + slings, in holes. Here they froze, making excellent holdfasts for the + depot flag. Depot flags had been exercising our ingenuity for months + before the start, ordinary forms being destroyed by the wind in a few + hours. Webb had finally built the perfect flag of the wind-vane type: a V + of pieces of blackened Venesta board with light struts at the back and a + piece of aeroplane tubing at the apex which slipped over the bamboo pole. + The pole, of two bamboos, stood sixteen feet from the ground and was + provided with two sets of flexible steel stays. Close by, Hurley and + Hunter had built a snow mound ten feet in diameter and ten feet in height, + finished off with a capping of snow blocks wrapped in black bunting. + </p> + <p> + Next day it was blowing a little harder and the sky was overcast, snow + falling all day. What bad light means can be gathered from the fact that + Laseron on crawling out of the tent in the morning raised an alarm that + our tent had been blown away in the night. It turned out that our tent was + hidden by a mound which he could not see, though only about ten yards from + it. + </p> + <p> + I had been given the option of relieving the supporting party of any of + their gear I coveted and I used it freely. The sledgemeter was the first + thing commandeered, ours, made by Correll, having developed some slight + complaint in its interior. Their cooker, being in good condition, was also + taken. We all cast longing eyes at the roomy wind-proof tent but finally + decided that it was too heavy—forty pounds as against our own of + twenty-six pounds, including tent and poles. + </p> + <p> + At 7 P.M. we said good-bye to our supporters, Hurley exposed the last + plate of his big reflex camera, which they carried back to the Hut, and a + few minutes later Webb, Hurley, and I were standing alone watching three + black specks disappearing in the drift; a stiff wind helping them along in + great style. We were left to our own resources now, for better or for + worse. "Weird" is how I described my feelings in the diary. + </p> + <p> + The same night it blew a hurricane and only dropped to sixty miles per + hour during the 23rd, compelling us to remain in camp. Not an ideal + birthday for Webb, but we made the most of it. I quote from my diary: + "Turned out and rolled bags at 3 P.M. for lunch, for which we opened a wee + tin of bacon ration brought for the occasion. Had some extra lumps of + sugar (collared from the eleven-mile cave) in our tea. After the wine had + been round (i.e. after a special second cup of tea), I gave Eric a pair of + stockings from Murphy, and then 'Hoyle' and I smoked a cigar each which + Webb produced. Dinner at 7 was also a special affair as we had the remains + of the bacon ration in the hoosh, with great effect. Also an extra strong + brew of cocoa boiled quite smooth. Burberrys on and a stroll outside in + the wind for a yard or two to get up a circulation; then into bag where I + am smoking a plebeian pipe which is very tame after the glories of the + day, especially as I suspect my tobacco of being a bit damp." + </p> + <p> + Such was the first of the two "auspicious occasions" we had on the + journey. + </p> + <p> + After going carefully through the gear, we discarded a pickaxe, one pair + of big spiked boots and some odd clothing. We also decided, as the + probability of leisure was not great, to leave our reading matter behind. + It was with regret that I added my little 'Virginibus Puerisque' to the + small pile of "rejects." The load now amounted to seven hundred and + forty-eight pounds in all. Not many days after, the floor-cloth (eight + pounds) was left behind, as the japara sail afforded ample protection from + damp in the low temperatures of the plateau. + </p> + <p> + The dip-circle, which was to yield the most important result of our + journey, was housed after much thought on a conveniently shaped kerosene + tray between the tins of oil. Four light leather straps, buckled tightly, + made a solid mass of tray, oil tins, and dip-circle; very safe, and easy + to undo. + </p> + <p> + My orders were to proceed inland, due south, taking magnetic, + geographical, meteorological, and such other observations as were + possible, returning to the Hut not later than January 15. Dr. Mawson had + left it to my discretion, in the event of any great change occurring in + the declination, to go either true or magnetic south. + </p> + <p> + At the Hut and up to about sixty miles south of it, the declination had + proved fairly constant, but now at the Southern Cross Depot, as we had + christened the sixty-seven-mile camp, the compass, from pointing a little + to the east of south, had travelled to 40 degrees east of south, so that + it became obvious that there was considerable magnetic disturbance in the + country over which we were travelling. Whether we went south or south-east + seemed unlikely to affect the value of geographical and other information + we might gather, while Webb was of the opinion that the best magnetic + results would be obtained by marching directly towards the Magnetic Pole, + particularly if there were disturbances over the intervening area. For + these reasons the course was maintained magnetic south. + </p> + <p> + At 11 A.M. on Sunday, November 24, we moved off to the south-east in a + wind of fifty miles an hour. The light was bad, and steering had to be + done by sastrugi and wind. However, momentary glimpses of the sun served + to check the course. The lunch camp was five miles from the depot, and a + good mound with a top of black bunting was left there. At almost every + halt, thus far on our journey, the snow cut for pitching the tent had been + gathered up into a mound which, in addition to forming a landmark, could + often be used as a back-mark for checking the course. Our depot thus had a + mound four miles on the southern and five miles on the northern side of + it. It was not marked as well as I had hoped, but under the circumstances + we could not do better. Moreover, at intervals during the day, some very + distinctive snow ramps had appeared in the valley, some five miles to the + north-east, and their position was fixed relative to the course. + </p> + <p> + Our hopes for a good afternoon were disappointed, as the wind and drift + came up again as strong as ever. The surface, too, grew worse; nothing but + sastrugi eighteen inches to thirty inches high and very close together. We + were marching a little to the east of the wind, and the sledge was + continually blown sideways, making considerable leeway. By 8.30 P.M. it + was blowing sixty miles per hour, so we halted, thoroughly tired out, + having hauled our one-third of a ton eight and three-quarter miles. + </p> + <p> + When it is blowing hard, the end of the day's march is not the end of the + day's work. As soon as a camping spot has been chosen, the sledge is + pulled round head to wind. The straps round the load are loosened + carefully, the shovel and tent removed and the straps retightened. One man + starts breaking out chunks of snow, experimenting until he finds a place + where large pieces come away readily. Lumps of forty pounds are the + handiest and quickest, but often only smaller ones can be obtained. These + are arranged in a circle round the tent-site, while the man with the tent + places it on the ground pointing upwind, the bottom of the poles being + just where the middle windward leg will be, and makes a hole for that leg. + </p> + <p> + When everything is ready, all three catch hold of the tent, one man + crawling half into it, gripping hard the leather loop on the windward leg. + The others sort out and grip their two side legs. "All ready? Up!" It + almost takes one's breath away, the roar and the flap! The side legs are + quickly separated as the tent rises, and before it can blow over, the + leeward legs are more or less in position, taking the strain. The centre + man is throwing all his weight on to the leather loop, while the other two + outside each holds down his windward pole with one hand and with the other + pulls blocks of snow on to the skirt to windward. Once this is done, the + rest is simple: cutting holes in just the right positions for the other + legs, pulling out the skirt and making it snug all round. Then in goes the + floor-cloth, and, by the time that is spread out properly, the primus and + cooker are passed in. The cooker is dissected and the two water vessels + passed out to be filled with snow. The cook will have hard work to get the + primus started if he does not shield the spirit flame from the wind, which + blows through the tent, by putting the whole lamp inside the big cooker + lid. + </p> + <p> + In come the pots filled with lumps of snow. The food tank is placed just + outside the entrance, and the proper food-bags for the meal are passed in + to the cook, the tank being retied to keep out drift. The cooker will now + be going at full pressure, and the cook is ready to receive the gear. + Sleeping-bags, "computation bag," hypsometer, "meat block" (a + three-inch-square paper pad on which meteorological notes were taken); + clothes-bag opened, three ditty-bags passed in and bag retied; a final + temperature taken and aneroid read; sledge anchored securely by tow-rope + to the ice-axe, and a final look round to see all gear is safely strapped + down and snow-tight. + </p> + <p> + In calm weather, camping is a very different thing. On a fine day, half an + hour after the halt would usually find us carefully scraping the last of + the hoosh out of our pannikins, ready for the cocoa. + </p> + <p> + At the seventy-six-mile camp we tried the experiment of a break-wind. The + tent was so small and light that it was necessary to protect it in the + heavy winds. Hurley and I took about three-quarters of an hour to build + the first one, but later we improved, getting into the knack of hewing + snow with a sharp-pointed shovel. + </p> + <p> + That night in bag I wrote: "The result of the breakwind is that for once + we have the wind bluffed. It is blowing seventy-five miles per hour—a + full hurricane—but all the viciousness is taken out of the flapping + and there will be no damage done to the tent by morning." + </p> + <p> + The wind was too strong for travelling early in the day (November 25). + While outside we suddenly observed two snow petrels. It was hard to + realize that they had actually flown seventy-six miles inland to a height + of two thousand four hundred and fifty feet. I dashed inside for the + fishingline; Hurley got out the camera. They were a beautiful sight, + hovering with outspread wings just above the snow, tipping it with their + feet now and then, to poise without a flutter in a sixty-five-mile gale. + Hurley secured a couple of "snaps" at the expense of badly frost-bitten + hands. Just as I arrived with the line hooked and baited, the birds flew + away to the north-east; our visions of fresh meat went with them. The line + was always ready after this. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening the wind dropped suddenly to twenty miles per hour. Our + camp was stationed on the southern side of the large valley we had entered + on the 18th, and we could identify the ridge crossed on that date, blue + and dim, forty miles away to the north. To the north-east could be seen a + distinct dip in the skyline, indicating the bed of the valley, on whose + northern side the dip met the higher skyline in a steep bluff, twenty-five + miles off. This bluff under the glasses was of heavily crevassed, blue + ice. + </p> + <p> + The wind did not rise again much until 10 P.M., when we had moved on seven + and a half miles, rising about three hundred feet over several ridges and + practically losing our view to the north. + </p> + <p> + A steady breeze on the 26th, and, on the whole, good light, allowed us to + make twelve miles. + </p> + <p> + Each day, now, Webb took an approximate magnetic dip and declination in + the lee of the break-wind. This was necessary in order to get some idea of + local disturbances. Also, it gave us some vague idea as to the direction + in which lay the South Magnetic Pole. For instance, at the + eighty-three-and-three-quarter-mile camp, the needle showed the Pole to be + 18 degrees east of true south, while at our lunch camp that day, six miles + farther on, it was given as 50 degrees east of south. The dip was so great + that our prismatic compass would not set closer than about 15 degrees, but + the long compass needle of the dip-circle, though of course sluggish, + continued to give excellent results. + </p> + <p> + Under these conditions it is obvious that the magnetic needle is quite + useless for steering purposes. The sun compass proved itself a more than + efficient substitute. On a snowfield there is usually a total absence of + landmarks of any kind, so the direction of wind, sastrugi, or perhaps a + low cloud is found with the sun-compass, frequently checked, and the + course kept accordingly. On camping we would generally carefully note the + direction in which the sledge was left, in case the next day proved + overcast. Thus we would march in the morning by the wind's direction till + the sun, gleaming through the clouds for a few moments, enabled us to use + the compass again. + </p> + <p> + Sastrugi, only six inches high, seen on the 26th, showed the effects of + wind-erosion exquisitely. In an individual case the windward end of a + sastruga might be completely undercut for six or nine inches, leaving a + hard crust, sometimes only one-eighth of an inch in thickness and a couple + of inches wide. This would sag downwards under its own weight in a fine + curve till the tip rested on the snow beneath. It is marvellous how such a + delicate structure can withstand the heavy wind. + </p> + <p> + November 27 proved a very hard day. The wind kept up sixty miles per hour + all the time, so that, after taking four hours to do four and + three-quarter miles, we were all thoroughly exhausted. It was not a great + run, but the century was hoisted—one hundred and three-quarter miles + by sledge-meter; altitude two thousand nine hundred feet. There was a mild + celebration that night over a square of butter-scotch and half an ounce of + chocolate, besides the regular hoosh and cocoa. + </p> + <p> + Next day the light was very bad and the wind fifty miles per hour. + Observations were therefore made inside the tent. Webb, Hurley and the + instrument occupied all available space, while I spent three hours digging + a shaft eight feet deep in the snow, taking temperatures every foot. It + appeared that the mean annual temperature of the snow was approximately + -16 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + The dip was 88 degrees 54'; certainly rather too large a rise from 88 + degrees 20' of twenty miles back. The declination had actually changed + about 80 degrees in the last ten miles. This one-hundred-mile station was + badly disturbed. From the evidence, it is possible that a subsidiary + "pole" or area of almost vertical dip may exist close by this spot to the + west or south-west. + </p> + <p> + Going straight up wind into a "blow" which varied from forty to fifty + miles per hour, we were able to make eight miles after the previous day's + rest. At lunch a hole was dug five feet square and two feet deep. It + served three purposes. First, it gave a good shelter for a longitude + observation; secondly, with the mast, yard and floor-cloth we converted it + into a shelter snug enough to house the primus and to lunch comfortably; + and thirdly, a mound was left as a back-mark which was picked up on the + return journey. + </p> + <p> + By experience we found that a warm lunch and a rest enabled one to "peg" + along a good deal farther than would otherwise be possible. + </p> + <p> + The "scenery" in the afternoon became if possible more desolate—very + few new sastrugi, the surface appearing generally old and pitted. In some + places it was rotten and blown away, disclosing coarse granulated + substrata. At the top of one ridge the snow merged into neve split into + small crevasses, nine inches wide and four or five yards apart. The camp + was pitched, here, at 11 P.M. The latitude was 68 degrees 32' S., and we + saw the midnight sun for the first time that summer, about one-quarter of + its rim remaining above the horizon. + </p> + <p> + A full hurricane came up and kept between fifty and sixty miles per hour + all day on the 30th. Before moving off, Webb found that the magnetic + needle had "waltzed" back 60 degrees since the one-hundred-mile camp, now + pointing 80 degrees east of south. Still, to allow the needle to makeup + its mind, we steered into the wind at 2 P.M., losing the neve and meeting + very rough country. By 6 P.M., with four miles to our credit, we were + nearly played out. It was being discussed whether we should go on when the + discovery was made that the theodolite legs were missing; probably having + slipped out in one of the numerous capsizes of the sledge. + </p> + <p> + The solemn rites of "shut-eye" determined that Webb was to stay and make + camp while Hurley and I retraced our steps. It was no easy matter to + follow the trail, for on hard snow the sledge runners leave no mark, and + we had to watch for the holes of the crampon-spikes. About two and a half + miles back, the legs were found, and there only remained a hard "plug" + against the wind to camp and hoosh. + </p> + <p> + While we were lying half-toggled into the sleeping-bags, writing our + diaries, Hurley spent some time alternately imprecating the wind and + invoking it for a calm next day. As he said, once behind a break-wind one + could safely defy it, but on the march one is much more humble. + </p> + <p> + Whether it was in honour of Queen Alexandra's birthday, or whether + Hurley's pious efforts of the evening before had taken effect, December 1 + turned out a good day. By noon, the wind had dropped sufficiently for us + to hoist the Jack and Commonwealth Ensign for the occasion. + </p> + <p> + After four miles of battling, there came into sight a distinct ridge, ten + miles to the west and south—quite the most definitely rising ground + observed since leaving the coast. In one place was a patch of immense + crevasses, easily visible to the naked eye; in another, due south, were + black shadows, and towards these the course was pointed. + </p> + <p> + At a point more than one hundred and twenty-five miles from the sea, a + skua gull paid an afternoon call, alighting a few yards from the track. I + immediately commenced to stalk it with a fishing-line, this time all ready + and baited with pemmican. However, it was quite contemptuous, flying off + to the south-south-east as far as we could follow it. Was it taking a + short cut to the Ross Sea? + </p> + <p> + December 2 saw us through "Dead-Beat Gully" to a rise, in sight of the + shadows towards which we had been steering. Two miles away they appeared + like the edge of the moon seen through a large telescope. The shadows were + due to large mounds of snow on the south side of a steep escarpment. Three + main prominences were cross-connected with regular lines of hillocks, + giving the impression of a subdivided town-site. The low evening sun threw + everything up in the most wonderful relief. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 3rd we were in a valley running west-north-west and + east-south-east. The southern side rose steeply and from it projected + three large mounds, about two hundred feet from the bottom of the valley, + into which they fell just like tailings-heaps from a mine. They were + christened "The Nodules." + </p> + <p> + Going due south uphill over neve we found ourselves in a regular network + of crevasses. They were about ten feet wide and well bridged. Most + noticeable were "hedges" of ice up to six feet in height on either side of + the crevasses which ran southward. It was now nearly calm and in every + crack and chink in the snow-bridges beautiful fern-like ice-crystals were + seen. These must have been just forming, as a very light puff of wind was + seen to destroy many of them. + </p> + <p> + We spent three hours exploring the locality. On nearing the top of the + ridge, roped together, we found that the crevasses were becoming much + wider, while the "hedges" were disappearing. The centre "nodule" was found + to be immediately north or to the leeward of the intersection of two + crevasses, each about forty feet wide. The bridge of one crevasse had + dropped some thirty feet for a length of eighty yards. Doubtless, an eddy + from this hole accounts for the deposit of snow and, by accretions, for + the erection of the nodule. Webb went down at the end of the alpine rope + and found the bridge below quite solid. + </p> + <p> + For about half a mile the summit of the slope was practically level, three + hundred feet above the bed of the valley. The surface was still of neve, + intersected by canals forty, sixty and eighty feet wide, in which the + snow-bridge was generally four or five feet from the brink. + </p> + <p> + On the south-west horizon, perhaps twenty miles away, was a salient crest + streaked by three dark vertical bars; evidently another crevassed area. + </p> + <p> + Returning to the sledge, we toggled-on and worked it up over the top of + the ridge, much regretting that time would not allow us to examine the + other two large "nodules." Hurley was in the lead, lengthening his line by + thirty feet of alpine rope, but even then all three of us and the sledge + were often on the lid of a crevasse. Luckily, the lids were fairly sound, + and none of us went in beyond the waist. Finally, the trail emerged on to + ordinary sastrugi once more, where a halt was made for lunch. We were all + glad to have seen the place, but I think none of us has any wish to see + another like it. + </p> + <p> + That night, after following the magnetic needle towards the south-east, we + were fairly on the plateau at one hundred and forty miles, with an + altitude of four thousand four hundred feet. The dip, however, had + steadily decreased, standing now at 88 degrees 30'. There was some + consolation in the hope that a big, sudden rise was stored up for us + somewhere along the way ahead. + </p> + <p> + December 4 and 5 were fine days, giving only twenty-two miles, as we met + with a rough surface; a large quantity of very hard, razor-backed + sastrugi, generally about two feet high, like groined vaulting inverted, + on a small scale. Sledge and sledge-meter both had a very rough passage. + The sledge, for instance, balances itself on the top of a sastruga for a + moment, with an ominous bend in the runners, crashes down the slope and + jams its bow into the next one, from which it has to be lifted clear. + </p> + <p> + During this run the needle again misbehaved itself, changing its direction + some 85 degrees in ten miles, but by the night of the 5th we were getting + past the disturbed locality and the dip had increased considerably. + </p> + <p> + For the first time on the trip the wind veered round to the south-east. + Snow had fallen overnight (December 5) and had drifted in long ramps + diagonally across the sastrugi. In two and a half hours we covered two and + a quarter miles, blindly blundering in an uncertain light among crests and + troughs and through piles of soft, new snow. Then we stopped; Webb filling + in the afternoon with a full set of dip observations. + </p> + <p> + That night the break-wind played its one possible trick. Waking on the + 8th, we found that the heavy snowfall, with only a moderate wind, had + drifted us up. Of course Hurley and I, who slept on the 'outsides,' had + known it most of the night. Before we could extricate ourselves from the + bags Webb had to turn out from the middle to dig away the drift which was + weighing down the walls of the tent on top of us. + </p> + <p> + It was hopeless weather for travelling. In the afternoon a snow cave was + dug, seven feet deep and enlarged to seven feet square at the bottom. The + whole was covered with mast, yard and sail. It was very snug from the + outward aspect, but we soon found that there were two objections to the + "Sarcophagus," as it was named. There was very little light except a + ghastly blue half-tone filtering through the snow, and the place was not + over warm, surrounded by walls at a much lower temperature than that of + the surface. + </p> + <p> + Webb commenced a declination "quick-run," consisting of half-hourly + observations of the direction in which the compass was pointing. In ordinary + latitudes, during the day, the compass needle moves over a few minutes of + arc, but here, being so close to the Magnetic Pole, its movement is + greatly magnified, the range being about 5 degrees on this occasion. Webb + carried on readings till midnight, and at 4 A.M., December 9, I turned + out, being relieved at 8 A.M. by Hurley, who carried on until the + twenty-four hours were completed. This observation should be especially + valuable when it is compared with continuous magnetic records obtained at + the same time at Winter Quarters and by the Scott expedition at McMurdo + Sound. + </p> + <p> + It was not till 1.30 P.M. on December 10 that the sixty-mile wind had + subsided sufficiently for us to get away. Every yard of our quota of seven + miles was hard going. A fine example of a typical old sastruga was passed + on the way. In order to secure a photograph of it, Hurley had to waste + eighteen films before he could persuade one to pull into place correctly. + The film-packs had been carefully kept in an airtight tin, but the cold + was too much for them. The tags which should pull each film round from the + back to the front of the pack usually tore away with a small piece of + film. In fact, out of one hundred and twenty films only forty-five + exposures were made. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th a good deal of "piecrust" cut down the day's march to eight + and a half miles. Sledge runners are usually supported by this surface, + but one's feet break through in a most annoying and tiring manner. The + drift eased off for a few hours and we managed to dry some of our gear. At + the Sarcophagus, things which had all been wet enough before became + saturated with drift which turned to ice. Felt mitts are perhaps the worst + in this respect, and it is no exaggeration to say that you could easily + brain a man with one after it had been worn in drift for a couple of days. + </p> + <p> + That night I decided that one more day must see us at our depot. Allowing + three days' grace for contingencies, there were thirty-one days for us to + attain our farthest southerly point and back to the Hut. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th we planned to reach a spot for the depot, two hundred miles + out, and by 11.30 P.M. came on a fine site at one hundred and ninety-nine + and three-quarter miles; altitude four thousand eight hundred and fifty + feet, latitude 69 degrees 83.1' south; longitude 140 degrees 20' east. + Everything possible was left behind, the sledge-decking being even cut + away, until only three light bamboo slats remained. A pile, including ten + days' food and one gallon of kerosene, was placed on a small mound to + prevent it being drifted over. A few yards distant rose a solid nine-foot + cairn surmounted by a black canvas-and-wire flag, six feet higher, well + stayed with steel wire. + </p> + <p> + I took on food for seventeen days, three days more than I intended to be + out, partly so that we could keep on longer if we found we could make very + fast time, and also as a safeguard against thick weather when returning to + the depot. + </p> + <p> + Late in the evening we set off against a stiff breeze. The sledge ran + lightly for three and a half miles, and we camped. The depot showed up + well in the north-west as a bright golden spot in the low midnight sun. + </p> + <p> + Next day the piecrust was so bad that, despite the lessened load, we only + covered twelve miles. The surface was smoothly polished, and we either + crashed through it from four inches to a foot or else slipped and came + down heavily on knees, elbow, or head. New finnesko were largely + responsible for such an accident. + </p> + <p> + At 11 P.M. a remarkable ramp, five chains long, was passed. On its + windward side was a tangled cluster of large sastrugi. They made one + imagine that the wind, infuriated at finding a block of snow impeding its + progress, had run amok with a giant gouge, endeavouring to pare it down. + Every now and then, the gouge, missing its aim, had taken great lateral + scoops from the surface, leaving trenches two and three feet deep. + </p> + <p> + In bags that night we had a talk (not the first by any means) over our + prospects. Up to the one hundred-and-seventy-four-mile camp, four hundred + miles seemed dimly possible, but now we saw we would be lucky to reach + three hundred miles. Moreover, the dip at this spot was 89 degrees 11', + practically what it had been ever since one hundred and fifty miles. + Sixty-five miles for nothing! How far for the other forty-nine minutes + which were needed for a vertical dip and the South Magnetic Pole? This + problem was insoluble, so each toggled himself into his bag in a rather + depressed state of mind. + </p> + <p> + December 16 was a glorious day; only a fifteen-mile wind, and for ten + miles an improved surface. There was no drift, consequently opportunity + was taken to turn the sleeping bags inside out. They needed it, too. The + upper parts were not so bad as they had been propped open occasionally, + but the lower halves were coated with solid ice. For the first time for + weeks we did not wear burberrys, as the weather was so warm. Fourteen + miles was the total work, the previous day's being twelve. + </p> + <p> + All three of us were having trouble with snow-blindness; the "zinc and + cocaine" tabloids being in great demand. + </p> + <p> + Latitude 70 degrees south was passed on the 17th and we were another + fourteen miles to the good. The dip was on the increase 89 degrees 25' and + the declination swung to 40 degrees east of the magnetic meridian. At two + hundred and fifty-six miles the altitude was five thousand five hundred + feet. + </p> + <p> + The temperature was getting lower; the minimum being -21 degrees F. on the + night of the 17th, rising to a maximum of 3 degrees F. on the following + day. + </p> + <p> + There was dead calm and a regular heat wave on December 19. As the sun + rose higher and higher, the tent became absolutely oppressive. The rime + coating the walls inside thawed and water actually trickled into our + finnesko. Usually we awoke to find them frozen hard, just as we had shaped + them on the previous night, but on this particular morning they were + pathetically limp and wet. The temperature inside the tent was 66 degrees + F., heated, of course, by the sun's rays which raised our black bulb + thermometer to 105 degrees F. We were not used to this sort of thing and + struggled out hurriedly for a breath of fresh air. + </p> + <p> + Once into harness, we began to feel the effects of exertion. By degrees we + got rid of our clothing, but unfortunately soon came to bedrock in that + respect, as the underclothing was sewn on and immovable. At lunch time, + with the thermometer at -2 degrees F. in the shade, we reluctantly dressed + knowing how soon we would cool off. About 9 P.M. clouds moved over rapidly + from the south-east and the landscape faded into the blank, shadowless + nothing of an overcast day. The camp was pitched at two hundred and + eighty-three miles amidst a jumble of ramps and sastrugi. The dip had seen + fit to rise to 89 degrees 35'. + </p> + <p> + In the morning the wind was doing thirty miles per hour, which certainly + seemed to be the normal thing. It fell to a nice sailing breeze, but, at + the time, we were not very appreciative of anything as the course was + uphill. Again, it was to be the last day's run, so we were "all out" when + the halt came after a good fifteen miles—the longest day's march on + the outward journey. Nevertheless, Webb unpacked the theodolite after + hoosh and took an altitude of the sun at midnight. + </p> + <p> + On December 21 the load on the sledge was stripped down to tent, + dip-circle, theodolite, cooker and a little food. For two and a half miles + we went south-east over rising ground until the sledge-meter showed three + hundred and one miles. + </p> + <p> + While Hurley and I pitched the tent, Webb built a breakwind for his + instrument fifty yards away. Then followed a long set of magnetic + observations. About 5 P.M. the magnetic work was interrupted; the + theodolite replacing the dip-circle on the legs, while I took a longitude + shot. I was seeing double, being slightly snow-blind, and had some + difficulty in choosing the correct combination from the assortment of suns + and cross-wires visible in the telescope. Setting the vertical and + horizontal wires simultaneously on the sun was beyond me; Webb taking the + observations for the true meridian, which also checked my longitude shot. + </p> + <p> + Magnetic work under these conditions is an extremely uncomfortable + operation. Even a light wind will eddy round the break-wind, and it is + wind which makes low temperatures formidable. Nearly all the work has to + be done with bare fingers or thin instrument-gloves, and the time taken is + far greater than in temperate climates, owing to the fingers constantly + "going" and because of the necessity of continually freeing the instrument + from the condensed moisture of the breath. Considering that the + temperature was -12 degrees F. when he had finished his four hours' work, + it may be imagined that Webb was ready for his hot tea. The dip proved to + be 89 degrees 43.5', that is, sixteen and a half minutes from the + vertical. The altitude was just over five thousand nine hundred feet, in + latitude 70 degrees 36.5' south and longitude 148 degrees 10' east. + </p> + <p> + After lunch the Union Jack and the Commonwealth Ensign were hoisted and + three cheers given for the King—willing but rather lonesome away out + there! We searched the horizon with glasses but could see nothing save + snow, undulating in endless sastrugi. To the south-east the horizon was + limited by our old enemy, "the next ridge," some two miles away. We + wondered what could be beyond, although we knew it was only the same + featureless repetition, since one hundred and seventy-five miles on the + same course would bring us to the spot where David, Mawson and Mackay had + stood in 1909. + </p> + <p> + After Hurley had taken a photograph of the camp, the tent was struck and + the sledge repacked. At last the sail was rigged, we gave a final glance + back and turned on the homeward trail. + </p> + <p> + My diary of that night sums up: "We have now been exactly six weeks on the + tramp and somehow feel rather sad at turning back, even though it has not + been quite a Sunday school picnic all along. It is a great disappointment + not to see a dip of 90°, but the time is too short with this 'climate.' It + was higher than we expected to get, after the unsatisfactory dips obtained + near the two-hundred-mile depot. The rate of increase since that spot has + been fairly uniform and indicates that 90 degrees might be reached in + another fifty to sixty miles, if the same rate held, and that means at + least another week. It's no good thinking about it for 'orders are + orders.' We'll have our work cut out to get back as it is. Twenty-five + days till we are overdue. Certainly we have twenty-three days' food, eight + days' with us, ten days' at two hundred miles, and five days' at + sixty-seven miles, so with luck we should not go hungry, but Webb wants to + get five more full sets of dips if possible on the way back, and this + means two and a half days." + </p> + <p> + That night the minimum thermometer registered its lowest at -25 degrees F. + It was December 21 and Midsummer Day, so we concluded that the spot would + be a very chilly one in the winter. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture we were very short of finnesko. The new ones we had worn + since the two-hundred-mile camp had moulted badly and were now almost + "bald." The stitching wears through as soon as the hair comes off and + frequent mending is necessary. + </p> + <p> + We rose earlier than usual on the 22nd, so as to get more advantage from + the wind, which each evening had always tended to die down somewhat. With + forty-two square feet of sail, the twenty-mile wind was too much for us, + the sledge capsizing on the smallest pretext. Instead of hanging the yard + from the top of the mast, we placed it across the load, reversing the sail + and hooking the clews over the top of the mast. Three or four pieces of + lampwick at intervals served as reefing-points by which the area of the + sail could be quickly cut down by bunching the upper part as much as was + necessary. + </p> + <p> + During the day we frequently saw our tracks in patches of snow left during + a previous snowfall, but they were much eroded, although only three days + old. After sledging in Adelie Land it is hard to realize that on certain + parts of the Ross Barrier tracks a year old may remain visible. + </p> + <p> + After passing the two-hundred-and-eighty-three-mile mound, the + sledge-meter became very sickly. Spoke after spoke had parted and we saw + that nothing we could do would make it last very much longer. As we + intended in one place to make a cross-country run of seventy miles, so as + to cut off the detour to the "Nodules," the meter was carried on the + sledge. We had now the mounds to check distances. + </p> + <p> + On December 23 we were lucky enough to catch sight of the + two-hundred-and-sixty-nine-mile mound and later the one at two hundred and + sixty-one miles, though there was a good deal of drift. The day's run was + twenty and a half miles. + </p> + <p> + A thing which helped us unexpectedly was that, now with the wind behind, + we found it unnecessary to wear the stiff, heavy, frozen, burberry + trousers. Thick pyjama trousers took their place in all except the worst + weather. + </p> + <p> + At our old two-hundred-and-forty-nine-mile camp, Webb took a complete set + of magnetic observations and another time-shot for watch-rate. It was late + when these were over, so we did only two and a half miles more, halting + for Christmas Eve, well content with a run of fourteen miles in addition + to a set of observations. + </p> + <p> + On Christmas Day the country was very rough, making sailing difficult. + Still, eighteen and a half miles were left behind. The wind was + practically along the sastrugi and the course was diagonal to both. As the + sledge strikes each sastruga, it skids northwards along it to the + discomfort of the wheelers and the disgust of the leader. + </p> + <p> + For Christmas dinner that night we had to content ourselves with revising + the menu for the meal which was to celebrate the two-hundred-mile depot. + But now it was all pretty well mapped out, having been matured in its + finer details for several days on the march. Hors d'oeuvre, soup, meat, + pudding, sweets and wine were all designed, and estimates were out. Would + we pick up the depot soon enough to justify an "auspicious occasion"? + </p> + <p> + Next day the wind was due south at thirty miles per hour. Dodging big + ramps and overturning on sastrugi, at the same time dragging well upwind + of the course to save leeway, twelve miles went by without the + two-hundred-and-fifteen-mile mound coming into sight. Finally, a search + with the glasses through falling snow revealed it a good two miles back. + As we particularly wanted some photos of the ramps at this camp, we made + across to it and had lunch there, Hurley exposing the last of the films. + </p> + <p> + At two hundred and nine miles "Lot's Wife" appeared—a tall, thin + mound which Hurley had erected during a lunch-camp on the way out. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th, with a thirty-five-mile wind and a good deal of drift, we did + not see the two-hundred-and-three-mile mound until we almost ran into it. + By three o'clock the great event occurred—the depot was found! We + determined to hold the Christmas feast. After a cup of tea and a bit of + biscuit, the rest of the lunch ration was put aside. + </p> + <p> + Webb set up his instrument in the lee of the big mound and commenced a set + of observations; I sorted out gear from the depot and rearranged the + sledge load; Hurley was busy in the tent concocting all kinds of dishes. + As the tableware was limited to three mugs and the Nansen cooker, we had + to come in to deal with each course the moment it was ready. Aiming at a + really high-class meal, Hurley had started by actually cleaning out the + cooker. + </p> + <p> + The absence of reindeer-hair and other oddments made everything taste + quite strange, though the basis was still the same old ration with a few + remaining "perks." After the "raisin gliders," soup and a good stiff + hoosh, Webb finished his observations while I recorded for him. It is + wonderful what sledging does for the appetite. For the first week of the + journey, the unaccustomed ration was too much for us; but now when Hurley + announced "Pudding!" we were all still ravenous. It was a fine example of + ye goode olde English plum-pudding, made from biscuit grated with the + Bonsa-saw, fat picked out of the pemmican, raisins and glaxo-and-sugar, + all boiled in an old food-bag. + </p> + <p> + This pudding was so filling that we could hardly struggle through a + savoury, "Angels on runners," and cocoa. There was a general recovery when + the "wine" was produced, made from stewed raisins and primus alcohol; and + "The King" was toasted with much gusto. At the first sip, to say the + least, we were disappointed. The rule of "no heel taps" nearly settled us, + and quite a long interval and cigars, saved up for the occasion by Webb, + were necessary before we could get courage enough to drink to the Other + Sledging Parties and Our Supporting Party. + </p> + <p> + The sun was low in the south when, cigars out and conversation lagging, we + finally toggled in for the finest sleep of the whole journey. + </p> + <p> + The cook, under a doubtful inspiration, broke forth, later on, into a + Christmas Carol: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + I've dined in many places but never such as these- + It's like the Gates of Heaven when you find you've lost the keys. + I've dined with kings and emperors, perhaps you scarce believe; + And even they do funny things when round comes Christmas Eve. + I've feasted with iguanas on a lonely desert isle; + Once in the shade of a wattle by a maiden's winsome smile. + I've "grubbed" at a threepenny hash-house, I've been at a + counter-lunch, + Reclined at a clap-up cafe where only the "swankers" munch. + In short, I've dined from Horn to Cape and up Alaska-way + But the finest, funniest dinner of all was on that Xmas Day. +</pre> + <p> + For the first ten miles on the afternoon of the 28th, the sail was reefed + down to prevent the sledge overrunning us on smooth patches. Not far past + the one-hundred-and-ninety-mile mound, which was missed in the drift, we + picked up some of the outward tracks—a bas-relief of three footsteps + and a yard of sledge-meter track, raised half an inch and undercut by the + wind. It was not very much, but quite a comfort when one is navigating in + blinding weather. + </p> + <p> + At 11.30 P.M. we had marched twenty-one miles, and both light and surface + were improving, so I proposed making a long run of it. Hurley and Webb + eagerly agreed, and we had a preparatory hoosh. Ten miles scudded by + monotonously without a sign of the mounds around the + one-hundred-and-seventy-mile camp. As we were in the vicinity of a point + where we had determined to diverge from our outward track, a course was + laid direct for the one-hundred-and-thirteen-mile mark. The sledge-meter, + which had been affixed, made its presence evident from time to time by + ringing like a cash register, as still another broken spoke struck the + forks. We would halt for a moment and extract the remains. Out of the + original thirty-six wire spokes, only twelve wire and one wooden one + remained. At 11.30 A.M. on December 29, a halt was called and the + sledge-meter was then lying over on its side with a helpless expression. + It indicated twenty-two miles, making, so we thought, a total of + forty-three miles in the twenty-two and a quarter hours since leaving the + depot. Observations for position next day proved that in its dying effort + it exaggerated the truth; the total run being 41.6 miles. + </p> + <p> + We were now well ahead of schedule time, there being four and a half days' + surplus food; above what was probably required to reach the + sixty-seven-and-a-half-mile depot. It was decided to hold three days of + this and to use one and a half days food as a bonus during the coming + week, as long as we were ahead of our necessary distance. The sledging + ration is quite enough to live on, but for the whole of the journey we had + felt that we could have done more distance on a slightly larger ration. + This may be partly explained by our comparatively high altitude. + </p> + <p> + Next morning the sledge-meter was cut away and stuck in the snow. It + looked very forlorn sitting askew in its forks, with a pair of worn-out + finnesko hanging over it. + </p> + <p> + After twelve miles with a favourable wind, Webb took more observations; + Hurley and I recording by turns. There were several small holes in the + tent which needed mending, and I experimented with adhesive plaster from + the medical kit with great success. Heated over a fusee and pressed hard + down between the bottoms of mugs, held outside and inside, the patches + adhered well and made a permanent job. + </p> + <p> + Early on December 31, 1912, snow was falling. The light gave Hurley an + attack of snow-blindness and a miserable day. Crampons were worn to give + some security to the foothold on the uneven track. The position, after a + trudge of fifteen miles, was estimated at five miles east of the + one-hundred-and-twenty-three-mile mound. + </p> + <p> + On New Year's Day, 1913, the wind was fresher and the surface improved. + Estimation placed us to the north of one hundred and thirteen miles, but + we were not hopeful in the light falling snow of seeing a mound. Soon, + however, the snow ceased, and Webb made out a hillock two miles ahead. It + was identified as the one at one hundred and nine miles. + </p> + <p> + It had been my turn to be snowblind. I was so bad that the only thing to + do was to camp or ride on the sledge. The trail changed here to straight + downwind, so Webb and Hurley undertook the job, hauling the sledge with me + as a passenger for three and a half miles to the one-hundred-and-five-mile + mound. It must have been a trying finish to a run of twenty miles. + </p> + <p> + In spite of the spell, which was a sleepless one, I was no better in the + morning and again had to ride. The others pulled away for five miles with + a good helping wind, but in a provoking light. The camp was made where the + one-hundred-mile mound was judged to be. We spent longer over lunch, + hoping that the clouds would clear. At last we moved on, or rather <i>I</i> + was moved on. After two miles the surface became heavier. My eyes were + better now on account of the rest and a snow "poultice" Webb had invented. + I harnessed-in for five miles over light, unpacked snow, with piecrust + underneath. The day's work was twelve miles. + </p> + <p> + The snow-clouds broke at noon on January 3, and a reliable latitude was + obtained. It agreed with our reckoning. Persevering over the same trying + surface as on the previous day, we sighted the ninety-mile-mound in the + rear as a rift broke in the sky. We must have passed a few hundred yards + from it. + </p> + <p> + We were still eleven miles from the depot, so at breakfast on the 4th the + rations were reduced by one-half to give plenty of time to locate our + goal. On the 4th the sky was clear, but surface drift prevented us from + seeing any mounds till, in the afternoon, the ramps near the + sixty-seven-mile depot were discovered in fitful glimpses. They bore too + much to the north, so we altered course correspondingly to the west, + camping in rising wind and drift, with great hopes for the morrow. + </p> + <p> + A densely overcast sky on the 5th; light snow falling! We moved on two + miles, but not being able to see one hundred yards, camped again; then + walking as far as seemed safe in various directions. One could do nothing + but wait for clear weather. The clouds lightened at 6 P.M. and again at 9 + P.M., when altitudes of the sun were secured, putting us four miles south + of the depot. + </p> + <p> + With only one chronometer watch, one has to rely entirely on dead + reckoning for longitude, the rate of a single watch being very variable. + The longitude obtained on this occasion from our latest known rate moved + us several miles to the east of the depot, so I concluded that our + distances since the camp at ninety miles had been overestimated, and that + we were probably to the south-east of it. Accordingly, we shifted four + miles to the north-west, but by this time it had again clouded over and + nothing could be seen. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th the sky was still overcast, but a lucky peep at noon aligned us + on the exact latitude of the depot. We walked east and west, but it snowed + persistently and everything was invisible. + </p> + <p> + It is weary work waiting in the tent for weather to improve. During this + time Hurley amused himself and us by composing a Christmas carol on the + Christmas dinner; a fragment from which has already appeared. I whiled + away a whole afternoon, cutting up the remains of two cigars which had + refused to draw. Sliced up with a pair of scissors and mixed with a few of + Hurley's cigarettes, they made very good smoking tobacco. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th the sky was immovable, and we trekked four miles due east, + camped once more and walked about without finding our goal. + </p> + <p> + I now decided that if the weather did not improve by the morning, we + should have to dash for the north. It was a risk, but matters were coming + to a serious pass. On broaching the subject to Webb and Hurley, they + unconditionally agreed with me. + </p> + <p> + At 3 A.M. the sky cleared rapidly and we turned out and saw the ramps + plainly to the east. Webb set up the theodolite while Hurley and I paced + out a half-mile base-line to find out the intervening distance. Just as we + got to the end of it, however, the clouds came over again and the ramps + faded. + </p> + <p> + There was only one thing for it now, and that was to make a break for the + coast. Of food, there was one full day's ration with enough pemmican for + half a hoosh, six lumps of sugar and nine raisins, rather the worse for + wear, oil for two days, and, last but not least, a pint of alcohol. After + four days on half-rations we felt fairly fit, thanks no doubt to the good + meals of the previous week. + </p> + <p> + There were sixty-seven miles to go, and in case we did not happen on the + narrow descent to the Hut, the food was apportioned to last for five days. + Everything unessential was stripped off the sledge, including dip-circle, + thermometers, hypsometer, camera, spare clothing and most of the medical + and repair kits. + </p> + <p> + At 7 A.M. we set off on the final stage of the journey. The sky was + densely overcast and snow was falling, but there was a strong wind almost + behind. We would march for an hour by my wrist-watch, halt for five + minutes and on again till all agreed that we had covered ten miles; when + it was lunch time. Each man's share of this consisted of one-third of a + biscuit, one-third of an ounce of butter and a drink made of a spoonful of + glaxo-and-sugar and one of absolute alcohol, mixed in a mug of lukewarm + water. We could not afford oil enough to do much more than thaw the water, + but the alcohol warmed us splendidly, enabling us to get a good rest. + </p> + <p> + After an hour's spell we started again, luckily seeing just enough of the + sun to check the course. The wind grew stronger in the afternoon and + several times dense fog-banks drove down on us. Meeting one steep rise, we + sidled round it for what seemed hours, but my chief memory of that + afternoon was of the clouds of the northern horizon. They were a deep + bluish-grey colour—a typical "water-sky"—but I have never seen + clouds moving so fast. It was like trying to steer by one particular phase + in a kaleidoscope. When all were satisfied that twenty miles had been + covered we camped. + </p> + <p> + Dinner consisted of a very watery hoosh, followed up by a mug of alcohol + and water. We were all very thankful for the forethought of Dr. Mawson in + providing absolute alcohol for lighting the primus, instead of methylated + spirit. + </p> + <p> + Breakfast on the 9th was of about the same consistency as dinner on the + night before, except that cocoa replaced the alcohol. In fact, breakfast + was possibly even more watery, as I was in charge of the food-bag and + surreptitiously decided to make the rations last six days instead of five. + </p> + <p> + This was the worst day's march of the journey. The wind was booming along + at sixty miles per hour with dense drift and falling snow. What made it + worse was that it came from the south-east, forcing us to pull partly + across it. I was the upwind wheeler and had to hitch on to the side of the + sledge to reduce the leeway as much as possible. The sledge was being + continually jammed into big, old, invisible sastrugi and we fell about in + the wind until crampons became absolutely necessary. + </p> + <p> + At 4 P.M. we were disgusted to find that the wind had veered to + south-by-east. So for possibly several hours we had been doing Heaven only + knows how many times the amount of work necessary, and for any time up to + four hours might have been marching three points off our course. Being + blown straight downwind, the sledge made rapid progress, and about 6 P.M. + a halt was called for lunch. This was over almost as soon as it was begun, + but we had a good rest, sheltering ourselves with the floor-cloth from the + wind which blew through the tent. + </p> + <p> + Off again, we "plugged" away until midnight when we were much surprised to + find the usual snow surface merging into blue ice. The tent was pitched on + the latter, snow being procured from the bridge of a crevasse as we had no + pick: even the ice-axe having been left behind. + </p> + <p> + Turning out on the morning of the 10th, we were delighted to find the sky + clearing and the wind moderating. And then, far away on the northern + horizon a beautiful line of blue sea dotted with bergs! + </p> + <p> + We now officially considered ourselves to be twenty-seven miles from the + Hut. As we should not have met blue ice on the proper course till we were + only thirteen miles out, it was thought that we had edged a long way to + the east the day before. When a start was made, we manoeuvred to the west + in looking for a crossing-place at each crevasse. + </p> + <p> + It was not long before the bergs on the horizon were noticeably enlarging, + and at last we realized that in reality it was only a few miles to them. + Suddenly the grade increased, the ice becoming much lacerated; and we had + some trouble getting the sledge along. Hurley was snow-blind and had one + eye covered. He looked very comical feeling his way over the crevasses, + but he probably did not feel over-humorous. + </p> + <p> + I was in the lead, and suddenly coming over a ridge above a steep + ice-fall, I caught sight of the Mackellar Islets and the old "Piano" berg. + Just at the same instant the spur of ice on which I was standing + collapsed, and down I went into a crevasse. The others quickly had me out, + and, as soon as I was in the upper air, I gave them the news: "There are + the Islands!" Being twenty feet farther back on the rope they had not yet + seen them. + </p> + <p> + We were now able to place ourselves about three miles west of Aladdin's + Cave. The last camp must have been thirteen miles from the Hut, and we had + really done twenty-seven miles each day instead of our conservative + twenty. + </p> + <p> + We tried to work along to the east, but the ice was too much broken, so + the camp was made on a patch of snow. In view of our good fortune, I + produced that evening's ration of hoosh in addition to our usual lunch. + Even this meagre spree went against Hurley's feelings, for, being + snow-blind, he had not been able to see the islands and positively would + not believe that we were nearly home. + </p> + <p> + After lunch it was necessary to retrace our way upwind to get out of the + rough country. About midnight, Webb recognized Aladdin's Cave. Hurley and + I had a competition as to who should see it first, for I was also getting + a little blind again. We had a dead-heat at one hundred and fifty yards. + </p> + <p> + The first thing to arrest our attention was a tin of dog biscuits. These + kept things going till we dug out a food tank from which was rapidly + extracted a week's supply of chocolate. After that we proceeded in a + happier frame of mind to open up the cave and have a meal. + </p> + <p> + The journey of more than six hundred miles was now practically over. After + a carousal lasting till 5 P.M. on the 11th, we went down hill, arriving + just after dinner and finding all well. + </p> + <p> + We three had never thought the Hut quite such a fine place, nor have we + ever since. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV EASTWARD OVER THE SEA-ICE + </h2> + <h3> + by C. T. MADIGAN + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Harnessed and girt in his canvas bands, + Toggled and roped to his load; + With helmeted head and bemittened hands, + This for his spur and his goad: + + "Out in the derelict fastnesses bare + Some whit of truth may be won." + Be it a will o' the wisp, he will fare + Forth to the rising sun. + + The Sledge Horse +</pre> + <p> + The Eastern Coastal party consisted of Dr. A. L. McLean, P. E. Correll and + myself. For weeks all preparations had been made; the decking put on the + sledge, runners polished, cooker- and instrument-boxes attached, mast + erected, spar and sail rigged, instruments and clothing collected, tent + strengthened—all the impedimenta of a sledge journey arranged and + rearranged, and still the blizzard raged on. Would we never get away? + November arrived, and still the wind kept up daily averages of over fifty + miles per hour, with scarce a day without drifting snow. + </p> + <p> + At last it was decided that a start must soon be made even though it ended + in failure, so that we received orders to set out on November 6, or the + first possible day after it. + </p> + <p> + Friday November 8 broke, a clear driftless day, and Murphy's party left + early in the morning. By noon, Stillwell's party (Stillwell, Hodgeman and + Close), and we, were ready to start. The former were bound on a short + journey to the near east and were to support us until we parted company. + </p> + <p> + All was bustle and excitement. Every one turned out to see us off. + Breaking an empty sauce-bottle over the bow of our sledge, we christened + it the M.H.S. Championship (Man-Hauled Sledge). The name was no boastful + prevision of mighty deeds, as, at the Hut, a "Championship" was understood + to mean some careless action usually occasioning damage to property, while + our party included several noted "champions." + </p> + <p> + Mertz harnessed a dog-team to the sledge and helped us up the first steep + slope. With hearty handshakes and a generous cheer from the other fellows, + we started off and were at last away, after many months of hibernation in + the Hut, to chance the hurricanes and drifting snow and to push towards + the unknown regions to the east. + </p> + <p> + At the steepest part of the rise we dismissed our helpers and said + good-bye. McLean and Correll joined me on the sledge and we continued on + to Aladdin's Cave. + </p> + <p> + As we mounted the glacier the wind increased, carrying surface drift which + obscured the view to within one hundred yards. It was this which made us + pass the Cave on the eastern side and pull up on a well-known patch of + snow in a depression to the south of our goal. It was not long before a + momentary clearing of the drift showed Aladdin's Cave with its piles of + food-tanks, kerosene, dog biscuit and pemmican, and, to our dismay, a + burberry-clad figure moving about among the accumulation. Murphy's party + were in possession when we expected them to be on the way south to another + cave—the Cathedral Grotto—eleven and three-quarter miles from + the Hut. Of course the rising wind and drift had stopped them. + </p> + <p> + It was then 5 P.M., so we did not wait to discuss the evident proposition + as to which of the three parties should occupy the Cave, but climbed down + into it at once and boiled up hoosh and tea. Borrowing tobacco from the + supporting parties, we reclined at ease, and then in that hazy atmosphere + so dear to smokers, its limpid blue enhanced by the pale azure of the ice, + we introduced the subject of occupation as if it were a sudden + afterthought. + </p> + <p> + It was soon decided to enlarge the Cave to accommodate five men, the other + four consenting to squeeze into Stillwell's big tent. McLean volunteered + to join Stillwell's party in the tent, while Correll and I were to stay in + the Cave with Murphy and company. + </p> + <p> + I went outside and selected ten weeks' provisions from the pile of + food-tanks and piled them beside the sledge. McLean attended to the + thermograph which Bage and I had installed in the autumn. Meanwhile, in a + fifty-mile wind, Stillwell and his men erected the tent. Hunter and + Laseron started with picks and shovels to enlarge the Cave, and, working + in relays, we had soon expanded it to eight feet by seven feet. + </p> + <p> + The men from the tent came down to "high dinner" at eight o'clock. They + reported weather conditions unimproved and the temperature -3 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + Early next morning I dug my way out and found that the surface drift had + increased with a wind of fifty-five miles per hour. It was obviously + impossible to start. + </p> + <p> + After breakfast it was arranged that those outside should have their meals + separately, digging down at intervals to let us know the state of the + weather. It was not pleasant for us, congested as we were in the Cave, to + have visitors sliding down through the opening with a small avalanche of + snow in their train. Further, to increase their own discomfort, they + arrived covered in snow, and what they were unable to shake off thawed and + wet them, subsequently freezing again to the consistency of a starched + collar. + </p> + <p> + The opening was, therefore, kept partly closed with a food-tank. The + result was that a good deal of snow came in, while the hole diminished in + size. For a man to try to crawl out in stiff burberrys appeared as futile + as for a porcupine to try to go backwards up a canvas hose. + </p> + <p> + The day passed slowly in our impatience. We took turns at reading 'The + Virginian', warmed by a primus stove which in a land of plenty we could + afford to keep going. Later in the afternoon the smokers found that a + match would not strike, and the primus went out. Then the man reading said + that he felt unwell and could not see the words. Soon several others + commented on feeling "queer," and two in the sleeping-bags had fallen into + a drowsy slumber. On this evidence even the famous Watson would have + "dropped to it," but it was some time before it dawned on us that the + oxygen had given out. Then there was a rush for shovels. The snow, ice and + food-tank were tightly wedged, at the mouth of the entrance, and it took + some exertion to perforate through to the outside air with an ice-axe. At + once every one speedily recovered. Later, another party had a worse + experience, not forgetting to leave a warning note behind them. We should + have done the same. + </p> + <p> + The weather was no better by the evening, and during the night the minimum + thermometer registered -12 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + At six o'clock on Sunday morning, November 10, McLean dug down to us with + the news that the wind had abated to thirty miles per hour with light + surface drift. + </p> + <p> + We hurried through breakfast, rolled up the bags and started packing the + sledge. Three 100-lb. food-tanks, one 50-lb. bag opened for ready use, and + four gallons of kerosene were selected. Stillwell took for us a 50-lb. + food-tank, a 56-lb. tin of wholemeal biscuits, and a gallon of kerosene. + With the 850 lbs. of food, 45 lbs. of kerosene, three sleeping-bags of 10 + lbs. each, a tent of 40 lbs., 86 lbs. of clothing and personal gear for + three men, a cooker, primus, pick, shovel, ice-axe, alpine rope, + dip-circle, theodolite, tripod, smaller instruments such as aneroid, + barometer and thermometer, tools, medical outfit and sledge-fittings, our + total load amounted to nearly 800 lbs., and Stillwell's was about the + same. + </p> + <p> + All were ready at 9 A.M., and, shaking hands with Murphy's party, who set + off due south, we steered with Stillwell to the south-east. The + preliminary instructions were to proceed south-east from the Cave to a + distance of eighteen miles and there await the arrival of Dr. Mawson and + his party, who were to overtake us with their dogteams. + </p> + <p> + The first few miles gave a gradual rise of one hundred feet per mile, so + that, with a heavy load against wind and drift, travelling was very slow. + The wind now dropped to almost calm, and the drift cleared. In the + afternoon progress was hampered by crevasses, which were very frequent, + running east and west and from one to twenty feet in width. The wider ones + were covered with firm snow-bridges; the snow in places having formed into + granular and even solid ice. What caused most delay were the detours of + several hundreds of yards which had to be made to find a safe crossing + over a long, wide crevasse. At 6.30 P.M. we pitched camp, having only made + five miles from the Cave. + </p> + <p> + We got away at 9 A.M. the next morning. Throughout the whole journey we + thought over the same mysterious problem as confronted many another + sledger: Where did the time go to in the mornings? Despite all our efforts + we could not cut down the interval from "rise and shine" to the start + below two hours. + </p> + <p> + Early that day we had our first experience of the treacherous crevasse. + Correll went down a fissure about three feet wide. I had jumped across it, + thinking the bridge looked thin, but Correll stepped on it and went + through. He dropped vertically down the full length of his harness—six + feet. McLean and I soon had him out. The icy walls fell sheer for about + sixty feet, where snow could be seen in the blue depths. Our respect for + crevasses rapidly increased after this, and we took greater precautions, + shuddering to think of the light-hearted way we had trudged over the wider + ones. + </p> + <p> + At twelve miles, blue, wind-swept ice gave place to an almost flat snow + surface. Meanwhile the sky had rapidly clouded over, and the outlook was + threatening. The light became worse, and the sastrugi indistinguishable. + Such a phenomenon always occurs on what we came to call a "snow-blind + day." On these days the sky is covered with a white, even pall of cloud, + and cloud and plateau seem as one. One walks into a deep trench or a + sastruga two feet high without noticing it. The world seems one huge, + white void, and the only difference between it and the pitch-dark night is + that the one is white and the other black. + </p> + <p> + Light snow commenced at 2.30 P.M., the wind rising to forty-five miles per + hour with heavy drift. Thirteen miles out we pitched camp. + </p> + <p> + This, the first "snow-blind day" claimed McLean for its victim. By the + time we were under cover of the tent, his eyes were very sore, aching with + a throbbing pain. At his request I placed a zinc-cocaine tablet in each + eye. He spent the rest of the day in the darkness of his sleeping-bag and + had his eyes bandaged all next day. Up till then we had not worn goggles, + but were careful afterwards to use them on the trying, overcast days. + </p> + <p> + For four and a half days the weather was too bad to travel. On the 14th + the wind increased and became steady at sixty miles per hour, accompanied + by dense drifting snow. We found it very monotonous lying in the tent. As + always happens during heavy drifts, the temperature outside was high, on + this day averaging about 12 degrees F.; inside the tent it was above + freezing-point, and the accompanying thaw was most unpleasant. + </p> + <p> + Stillwell's party had pitched their tent about ten paces to the leeward + side of ours, of which stratagem they continually reminded us. Going + outside for food to supply our two small meals per day was an operation + fraught with much discomfort to all. This is what used to happen. The man + on whom the duty fell had to insinuate himself into a bundle of wet + burberrys, and, as soon as he was outside, they froze stiff. When, after a + while, he signified his intention of coming in, the other two would + collect everything to one end of the tent and roll up the floor-cloth. + Plastered with snow, he entered, and, despite every precaution, in + removing burberrys and brushing himself he would scatter snow about and + increase the general wetness. On these excursions we would visit + Stillwell's tent and be hospitably, if somewhat gingerly, admitted; the + inmates drawing back and pulling away their sleeping-bags as from one with + a fell disease. As a supporting party they were good company, among other + things, supplying us with tobacco ad libitum. When we parted, five days + after, we missed them very much. + </p> + <p> + During the night the wind blew harder than ever—that terrible wind, + laden with snow, that blows for ever across the vast, mysterious plateau, + the "wind that shrills all night in a waste land, where no one comes or + hath come since the making of the world." In the early hours of the + morning it reached eighty miles per hour. + </p> + <p> + Not till 9 next morning did the sky clear and the drift diminish. + Considering that it had taken us eight days to do thirteen miles, we + decided to move on the 16th at any cost. + </p> + <p> + Our library consisted of 'An Anthology of Australian Verse', Thackeray's + 'Vanity Fair' and 'Hints to Travellers' in two volumes. McLean spent much + of the time reading the Anthology and I started 'Vanity Fair'. The latter + beguiled many weary hours in that tent during the journey. I read a good + deal aloud and McLean read it afterwards. Correll used to pass the days of + confinement arranging rations and costs for cycling tours and designing + wonderful stoves and cooking utensils, all on the sledging, "cut down + weight" principle. + </p> + <p> + On the 16th we were off at 9 A.M. with a blue sky above and a "beam" wind + of thirty-five miles per hour. Up a gentle slope over small sastrugi the + going was heavy. We went back to help Stillwell's party occasionally, as + we were moving a little faster. + </p> + <p> + Just after lunch I saw a small black spot on the horizon to the south. Was + it a man? How could Dr. Mawson have got there? We stopped and saw that + Stillwell had noticed it too. Field-glasses showed it to be a man + approaching, about one and a half miles away. We left our sledges in a + body to meet him, imagining all kinds of wonderful things such as the + possibility of it being a member of Wild's party—we did not know + where Wild had been landed. All the theories vanished when the figure + assumed the well-known form of Dr. Mawson. He had made a little more south + than we, and his sledges were just out of sight, about two miles away. + </p> + <p> + Soon Mertz and Ninnis came into view with a dog-team, which was harnessed + on to one sledge. All hands pulled the other sledge, and we came up + fifteen minutes later with Dr. Mawson's camp at eighteen and a quarter + miles. In the good Australian way we sat round a large pot of tea and + after several cups put up our two tents. + </p> + <p> + It was a happy evening with the three tents grouped together and the dogs + securely picketed on the great plateau, forming the only spot on the + limitless plain. Every one was excited at the prospect of the weeks ahead; + the mystery and charm of the "unknown" had taken a strange hold on us. + </p> + <p> + Ninnis and Mertz came into our tent for a short talk before turning in. + Mertz sang the old German student song: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Studio auf einer Reis' + Immer sich zu helfen weis + Immer fort durch's Dick und Dunn + Schlendert es durch's Leben hin. +</pre> + <p> + We were nearly all University graduates. We knew that this would be our + last evening together till all were safely back at the Hut. No thought was + farther from our minds than that it was the last evening we would ever + spend with two companions, who had been our dear comrades for just a year. + </p> + <p> + Before turning into sleeping-bags, a messenger brought me dispatches from + the general's tent—a letter on the plateau. This proved to be the + instructions to the Eastern Coastal Party. Arriving back at the Hut by + January 15, we were to ascertain as much as possible of the coast lying + east of the Mertz Glacier, investigating its broad features and carrying + out the following scientific work: magnetic, biological and geological + observations, the character, especially the nature and size of the grains + of ice or snow surfaces, details of sastrugi, topographical features, + heights and distances, and meteorology. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, November 17, we moved on together to the east with the wind at + fifteen miles an hour, the temperature being 9 degrees F. The sun shone + strongly soon after the start, and with four miles to our credit a tent + was run up at 1 P.M., and all lunched together on tea, biscuit, butter and + chocolate. Up to this time we had had only three al fresco lunches, but, + as the weather seemed to be much milder and the benefit of tea and a rest + by the way were so great, we decided to use the tent in future, and did so + throughout the journey. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon, Dr. Mawson's party forged ahead, the dogs romping along + on a downhill grade. We took the bit in our teeth as we saw them sitting + on their sledges, growing smaller and smaller in front of us. We came up + with them again as they had waited to exchange a few more words at a point + on the track where a long extent of coast to the east came into view. + </p> + <p> + Here we bade a final adieu to Dr. Mawson, Mertz and Ninnis. The surface + was on the down grade towards the east, and with a cheer and farewell wave + they started off, Mertz walking rapidly ahead, followed by Ninnis and Dr. + Mawson with their sledges and teams. They were soon lost to view behind + the rolling undulations. + </p> + <p> + A mile farther on we pitched camp at 8 P.M. in a slight depression just + out of sight of the sea. Every one slept soundly after a good day's + pulling. + </p> + <p> + November 18 was a bright dazzling day, the sky dotted with fleecy + alto-cumulus. At 6 A.M. we were out to find Stillwell's party moving in + their tent. There was a rush for shovels to fill the cookers with snow and + a race to boil hoosh. + </p> + <p> + At this camp we tallied up the provisions, with the intention of taking + what we might require from Stillwell and proceeding independently of him, + as he was likely to leave us any day. There were fifty-nine days to go + until January 15, 1913, the latest date of arrival back at the Hut, for + which eight weeks' rations were considered to be sufficient. There were + seven weeks' food on the sledge, so Stillwell handed over another + fifty-pound bag as well as an odd five pounds of wholemeal biscuit. The + total amount of kerosene was five gallons, with a bottle of methylated + spirit. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after eight o'clock we caught sight of Dr. Mawson's camp, and set + sail to make up the interval. This we did literally as there was a light + westerly breeze—the only west wind we encountered during the whole + journey. + </p> + <p> + The sledge was provided with a bamboo mast, seven feet high, stepped + behind the cooker-box and stayed fore and aft with wire. The yard was a + bamboo of six feet, slung from the top of the mast, its height being + varied by altering the length of the slings. The bamboo was threaded + through canvas leads in the floor-cloth which provided a spread of thirty + square feet of sail. It was often such an ample area that it had to be + reefed from below. + </p> + <p> + With the grade sloping gently down and the wind freshening, the pace + became so hot that the sledge often overran us. A spurious "Epic of the + East" (see 'Adelie Blizzard') records it: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Crowd on the sail- + Let her speed full and free "on the run" + Over knife-edge and glaze, marble polish and pulverized chalk + The finnesko glide in the race, and there's no time for talk. + Up hill, down dale, + It's all in the game and the fun. +</pre> + <p> + We rapidly neared Dr. Mawson's camp, but when we were within a few miles + of it, the other party started in a south-easterly direction and were soon + lost to sight. Our course was due east. + </p> + <p> + At thirty-three and a half miles the sea was in sight, some fine + flat-topped bergs floating in the nearest bay. Suddenly a dark, rocky + nunatak sprang into view on our left. It was a sudden contrast after ten + days of unchanging whiteness, and we felt very anxious to visit this new + find. As it was in Stillwell's limited territory we left it to him. + </p> + <p> + According to the rhymester it was: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A rock by the way- + A spot in the circle of white- + A grey, craggy spur plunging stark through the deep-splintered ice. + A trifle! you say, but a glow of warm land may suffice + To brighten a day + Prolonged to a midsummer night. +</pre> + <p> + After leaving Aladdin's Cave, our sledge-meter had worked quite + satisfactorily. Just before noon, the casting attaching the recording-dial + to the forks broke—the first of a series of break-downs. Correll + bound it up with copper wire and splints borrowed from the medical outfit. + </p> + <p> + The wind died away and the sail was of little use. In addition to this, we + met with a slight up grade on the eastern side of the depression, our rate + diminishing accordingly. At 7 P.M. the tent was pitched in dead calm, + after a day's run of fifteen miles with a full load of almost eight + hundred pounds—a record which remained unbroken with us till near + the end of the outward journey. Looking back, the nunatak and bergs were + still visible. + </p> + <p> + Both parties were under way at 8 A.M. next day (November 19) on a calm and + sunny morning. The course by sun-compass was set due east. + </p> + <p> + At noon I took a latitude "shot" with the three-inch Cary theodolite. This + little instrument proved very satisfactory and was easily handled in the + cold. In latitude 67 degrees 15' south, forty-six and a half miles east of + the Hut, we were once more on level country with a high rise to the + north-east and another shallow gully in front. + </p> + <p> + A fog which had been moving along the sea-front in an opaque wall drifted + over the land and enveloped us. Beautiful crystals of ice in the form of + rosettes and small fern-fronds were deposited on the cordage of the sail + and mast. One moment the mists would clear, and the next, we could not see + more than a few hundred yards. + </p> + <p> + We now parted with Stillwell, Hodgeman and Close, who turned off to a + rising knoll—Mount Hunt—visible in the north-east, and + disappeared in the fog. + </p> + <p> + After the halt at noon the sastrugi became much larger and softer. The fog + cleared at 2 P.M. and the sun came out and shone very fiercely. A very + inquisitive skua gull—the first sign of life we had seen thus far—flew + around the tent and settled on the snow near by. In the calm, the heat was + excessive and great thirst attacked us all the afternoon, which I + attempted to assuage at every halt by holding snow in my hands and licking + the drops of water off my knuckles—a cold and unsatisfactory + expedient. We travelled without burberrys—at that time quite a novel + sensation—wearing only fleece suits and light woollen undergarments. + Correll pulled for the greater part of the afternoon in underclothing + alone. + </p> + <p> + At forty-nine and a half miles a new and wonderful panorama opened before + us. The sea lay just below, sweeping as a narrow gulf into the great, flat + plain of debouching glacier-tongue which ebbed away north into the foggy + horizon. A small ice-capped island was set like a pearl in the amethyst + water. To the east, the glacier seemed to fuse with the blue line of the + hinterland. Southward, the snowy slope rose quickly, and the far distance + was unseen. + </p> + <p> + We marched for three-quarters of a mile to where a steep down grade + commenced. Here I made a sketch and took a round of angles to all + prominent features, and the conspicuous, jutting, seaward points of the + glacier. McLean and Correll were busy making a snow cairn, six feet high, + to serve as a back-sight for angles to be taken at a higher eminence + southward. + </p> + <p> + We set out for the latter, and after going one and a half miles it was + late enough to camp. During the day we had all got very sunburnt, and our + faces were flushed and smarting painfully. After the long winter at the + Hut the skin had become more delicate than usual. + </p> + <p> + Under a clear sky, the wind came down during the night at forty-five miles + per hour, lashing surface drift against the walls of the tent. It was not + till ten o'clock that the sledge started, breaking a heavy trail in snow + which became more and more like brittle piecrust. There was at first a + slight descent, and then we strained up the eminence to the south over + high sastrugi running almost north and south. Capsizes became frequent, + and to extricate the heavy sledge from some of the deep furrows it was + necessary to unload the food-bags. The drift running over the ground was + troublesome when we sat down for a rest, but, in marching, our heads were + just clear of it. + </p> + <p> + It was a long laborious day, and the four miles indicated by the + inexorable sledge-meter seemed a miserable result. However, near the top + of the hill there was a rich reward. A small nunatak slanted like a + steel-blue shadow on the side of a white peak to the south-west. There was + great excitement, and the sledge slid along its tracks with new life. It + was rock without a doubt, and there was no one to dispute it with us. + While speculating wildly as to its distance, we came unexpectedly to the + summit of the hill. + </p> + <p> + The wind had subsided, the sky was clear and the sun stood low in the + south-west. Our view had widened to a noble outlook. The sea, a delicate + turquoise-blue, lay in the foreground of the low, white, northern + ice-cliffs. Away to the east was the dim suggestion of land across the bed + of the glacier, about which circled the southerly highlands of the + plateau, buried at times in the haze of distance. Due south, twenty miles + away, projecting from the glacier, was another island of rock. The nunatak + first seen, not many miles to the south-west, was a snowy mountain + streaked with sprouting rock, rising solitary in an indentation of the + land. We honoured our Ship by calling it Aurora Peak, while our camp stood + on what was thenceforth to be Mount Murchison. + </p> + <p> + It was obvious that this was the place for our first depot. I had decided, + too, to make it the first magnetic station and the point from which to + visit and explore Aurora Peak. None of us made any demur over a short + halt. Correll had strained his back during the day from pulling too hard, + and was troubled with a bleeding nose. My face was very sore from sunburn, + with one eye swollen and almost closed, and McLean's eyes had not yet + recovered from their first attack of snow-blindness. + </p> + <p> + November 21 was a day in camp. Most of the morning I spent trying, with + Correll's help, to get the declination needle to set. Its pivot had been + destroyed in transit and Correll had replaced it by a gramophone needle, + which was found too insensitive. There was nothing to do but use the + three-inch theodolite, which, setting to one degree, would give a good + result, with a mean of thirty-two settings, for a region with such + variable magnetic declination. A latitude "shot" was made at noon, and in + the afternoon I took a set of dip determinations. These, with a panoramic + sketch from the camp, a round of angles to conspicuous points and an + observation at 5.30 P.M. for time and azimuth completed the day's work. + Correll did the recording. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, McLean had built an eight-feet snow mound, erected a depot flag + upon it and taken several photographs. + </p> + <p> + The next day was devoted to an excursion to Aurora Peak. The weather was, + to our surprise, quite clear and calm. Armed with the paraphernalia for a + day's tour, we set off down the slope. Correll put the primus stove and + the inner pot of the cooker in the ready food-bag, McLean slung on his + camera and the aneroid barometer, while I took my ruck-sack with the + rations, as well as field-glasses and an ice-axe. In case of crevasses, we + attached ourselves to an alpine rope in long procession. According to the + "Epic" it was something like this: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We saddled up, adventure-bent; + Locked up the house—I mean the tent- + Took "grub" enough for three young men + With appetite to equal ten. + A day's outing across the vale. + Aurora Peak! What ho! All hail! + + We waltzed a'down the silvered slope, + Connected by an Alpine rope; + "Madi" in front with ice-axe armed, + For fear that we should feel alarmed. + Glad was the hour, and—what a lark! + Explorers three? "Save the mark!" +</pre> + <p> + The mystery of the nunatak was about to be solved. Apparently it rose from + the level of the glacier, as our descent showed its eastern flank more + clearly outlined. It was three miles to the bottom of the gully, and the + aneroid barometer registered one thousand one hundred and ninety feet. The + surface was soft and yielding to finnesko crampons, which sank through in + places till the snow gripped the knees. + </p> + <p> + Ascending on the other side we crossed a small crevasse and the peak + towered above us. The northern side terminated in a perpendicular face of + ice, below which a deep basin had been "scalloped" away; evidently kept + clear by eddies of wind. In it lay broken fragments of the overhanging + cliff. The rock was a wide, outcropping band curving steeply to the summit + on the eastern aspect. + </p> + <p> + After a stiff climb we hurried eagerly to the rock as if it were a mine of + inexhaustible treasure. The boulders were all weathered a bright red and + were much pitted where ferruginous minerals were leached out. The rock was + a highly quartzose gneiss, with black bands of schist running through it. + Moss and lichens were plentiful, and McLean collected specimens. + </p> + <p> + The rocky strip was eighty feet wide and three hundred feet high, so, + making a cache of the primus, provisions and burberrys, we followed it up + till it became so steep that it was necessary to change to the snow. This + was in the form of hard neve with patches of ice. I went first, cutting + steps with the ice-axe, and the others followed on the rope. The last ten + of more than one hundred steps were in an almost vertical face, which gave + a somewhat precarious foothold. + </p> + <p> + At 11.30 A.M. we stood on the summit at an altitude of one thousand seven + hundred and fifty feet, while across the valley to the north-east rose + Mount Murchison, one hundred and fourteen feet higher. The top of the + ridge was quite a knife-edge, with barely space for standing. It ran + mainly north and south, dipping in the centre, to curve away sharply + westward to a higher eminence. At the bend was an inaccessible patch of + rock. The surrounding view was much the same at that on Mount Murchison. + </p> + <p> + The Union Jack and the Australian flag were erected on a bamboo, and + photographs taken. At the same time, low, threatening clouds rapidly + emerged from the southeast, covering the sun and creating the "snow-blind" + light. This was rather alarming as the climb had been difficult enough + under a clear sky, and the descent was certainly much more difficult. So + we hastily ate some chocolate and discussed the best way down. + </p> + <p> + Prospecting to the north, in search of a long snow ramp which appeared to + run away in that direction, we scrambled down to the edge of a wide snowy + crevasse full of blue chinks. + </p> + <p> + Turning back, we considered the chances of sliding down a steep scoured + hollow to the west and finally decided to descend by the track we had cut. + </p> + <p> + McLean started off first down the steps and was out of sight in a few + moments. When the rope tightened, Correll followed him and then I came + last. It was very ticklish work feeling for the steps below with one's + feet, and, as we signalled to one another in turn after moving a step, it + took more than an hour to reach a safe position on the rocks. With every + step I drove my axe into the ice, so that if the others had fallen there + would still have been a last chance. + </p> + <p> + There was no time to be wasted; light snow was falling with the prospect + of becoming thicker. In the gully the snowfall became heavy, limiting the + view to within a few hundred yards. We advanced up the hill in what seemed + to be the steepest direction, but circled half-way round it before finding + out that the course was wrong. Aimlessly trying to place the broad flat + summit I came across tracks in the snow, which were then carefully + followed and led to the tent. The wind was rising outside and the hoosh in + steaming mugs was eaten with extra relish in our snug retreat. + </p> + <p> + Specimens were labelled to be deposed and provisions were arranged for the + rest of the journey. It was evident that we had superfluous clothing, and + so the weight of the kit-bags was scrupulously cut down. By the time we + crawled into sleeping-bags, everything dispensable was piled alongside the + depot-flag. + </p> + <p> + We slept the sleep of the weary and did not hear the flapping tent nor the + hissing drift. At 6 A.M. the wind was doing forty miles per hour and the + air was filled with snow. It must have been a new climate, for by noon the + sun had unexpectedly broken through, the wind was becoming gusty and the + drift trailed like scud over the surface. + </p> + <p> + With six weeks' food we set off on a new trail after lunch. The way to the + eastern glacier—Mertz Glacier—issued through the mouth of the + gully, which ran in an easterly direction between Aurora Peak and Mount + Murchison. On Mount Murchison ice-falls and crevasses began a short + distance east of our first line of descent, but yet I thought a slight + deviation to the east of south would bring us safely into the valley, and, + at the same time, cut off a mile. Alas! it proved to be one of those + "best-laid schemes." + </p> + <p> + The load commenced to glide so quickly as we were leaving the crest of the + mountain that Correll and McLean unhitched from the hauling line and + attached themselves by the alpine rope to the rear of the sledge, braking + its progress. I remained harnessed in front keeping the direction. For two + miles we were going downhill at a running pace and then the slope became + suddenly steeper and the sledge overtook me. I had expected crevasses, in + view of which I did not like all the loose rope behind me. Looking round, + I shouted to the others to hold back the sledge, proceeding a few steps + while doing so. The bow of the sledge was almost at my feet, when—whizz! + I was dropping down through space. The length of the hauling rope was + twenty-four feet, and I was at the end of it. I cannot say that "my past + life flashed before me." I just had time to think "Now for the jerk—will + my harness hold?" when there was a wrench, and I was hanging breathless + over the blue depth. Then the most anxious moment came—I continued + to descend. A glance showed me that the crevasse was only four feet wide, + so the sledge could not follow me, and I knew with a thankful heart that I + was safe. I only descended about two feet more, and then stopped. I knew + my companions had pulled up the sledge and would be anchoring it with the + ice-axe. + </p> + <p> + I had a few moments in which to take in my surroundings. Opposite to me + was a vertical wall of ice, and below a beautiful blue, darkening to black + in that unseen chasm. On either hand the rift of the crevasse extended, + and above was the small hole in the snow bridge through which I had shot. + </p> + <p> + Soon I heard McLean calling, "Are you all right?" And I answered in what + he and Correll thought an alarmingly distant voice. They started enlarging + the hole to pull me out, until lumps of snow began to fall and I had to + yell for mercy. Then I felt they were hauling, and slowly I rose to + daylight. + </p> + <p> + The crevasse ran westward along the gully, forcing us to make a detour + through a maze of smaller cracks. We had to retreat up the hill in one + place, throwing off half the load and carrying it on in relays. There was + a blistering sun and the work was hard. At last the sledge came to a clear + run and tobogganed into the snow-filled valley, turning eastward towards + its outlet. + </p> + <p> + At the evening camp the sledge-meter indicated that our distance eastward + of the Hut was sixty miles, one thousand two hundred yards. The northern + face of the gully was very broken and great sentinel pillars of ice stood + out among the yawning caves, some of them leaning like the tower of Pisa, + others having fallen and rolled in shattered blocks. Filling the vision to + the south-west was Aurora Peak, in crisp silhouette against a glorious + radiant of cirrus cloud. + </p> + <p> + Reviewing the day through our peaceful smoke-rings, I was rather comforted + by the fact that the fall into the crevasse had thoroughly tested my + harness. Correll expressed himself as perfectly satisfied with his test. + McLean seemed to feel somewhat out of it, being the only one without a + crevasse experience; which happy state he maintained until the end, + apparently somewhat to his disappointment. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th we broke camp at 9 A.M., continuing down the gully towards the + glacier. A lofty wall of rocks, set within a frame of ice, was observed on + our left, one mile away. To it we diverged and found it to be gneiss + similar to that of Aurora Peak. Several photos were taken. + </p> + <p> + The land was at our back and the margin of the glacier had been crossed. + Only too soon we were in the midst of terribly crevassed ground, through + which one could only thread a slow and zig-zag course. The blue ice was + riven in every direction by gaping quarries and rose smooth and slippery + on the ridges which broke the surface into long waves. Shod with crampons, + the rear of the sledge secured by a tail-rope, we had a trying afternoon + guiding the load along the narrow ridges of ice with precipices on either + hand. Fortunately the wind was not above twenty miles per hour. As the + frivolous "Epic" had it: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Odds fish! the solid sea is sorely rent, + And all around we're pent + With quarries, chasms, pits, depressions vast, + Their snow-lids overcast. + + A devious track, all curved and serpentine + Round snow-lids superfine. + On jutting brinks and precipices sheer + Precariously we steer. +</pre> + <p> + We pushed on to find a place in which to camp, as there was scarcely safe + standing-room for a primus stove. At seventy miles the broken ice gave way + to a level expanse of hard sastrugi dotted all over with small mounds of + ice about four feet high. After hoosh, a friendly little Wilson petrel + came flying from the northern sea to our tent. We considered it to be a + good omen. + </p> + <p> + Next day the icy mounds disappeared, to be replaced by a fine, flat + surface, and the day's march amounted to eleven and a quarter miles. + </p> + <p> + At 11 A.M. four snow petrels visited us, circling round in great + curiosity. It is a cheerful thing to see these birds amid the lone, + inhospitable ice. + </p> + <p> + We were taking in the surroundings from our position off the land scanning + the far coast to the south for rock and turning round to admire the bold + contours of Aurora Peak and Mount Murchison at our back. Occasionally + there were areas of rubbly snow, blue ice and crevasses completely filled + with snow, of prodigious dimensions, two hundred to three hundred yards + wide and running as far as the eye could travel. The snow filling them was + perfectly firm, but, almost always along the windward edge, probing with + an ice-axe would disclose a fissure. This part of the Mertz Glacier was + apparently afloat. + </p> + <p> + The lucky Wilson petrel came again in the evening. At this stage the daily + temperatures ranged between 10 degrees F. and near freezing-point. The + greater part of November 26 was passed in the tent, within another zone of + crevasses. The overcast sky made the light so bad that it became dangerous + to go ahead. At 5.30 P.M. we started, and managed to do five and a half + miles before 8 P.M. + </p> + <p> + It was rather an eventful day, when across the undulating sastrugi there + appeared a series of shallow valleys running eastward. As the valleys + approached closer, the ground sloped down to meet them, their sides + becoming steeper, buckled and broken. Proceeding ahead on an easterly + course, our march came to an abrupt termination on an ice-bluff. + </p> + <p> + In front lay a perfectly flat snow-covered plain—the sea-ice. In + point of fact we had arrived at the eastern side of the Mertz Glacier and + were about fifteen miles north of the mainland. Old sea-ice, deeply + covered in snow, lay ahead for miles, and the hazy, blue coast sank below + the horizon in the south-east, running for a time parallel to the course + we were about to take. It was some time before we realized all this, but + at noon on the following day there came the first reminder of the + proximity of sea-water. + </p> + <p> + An Adelie penguin, skiing on its breast from the north, surprised us + suddenly by a loud croak at the rear of the sledge. As astonished as we + were, it stopped and stared, and then in sudden terror made off. But + before starting on its long trek to the land, it had to be captured and + photographed. + </p> + <p> + To the south the coast was marked by two faces of rock and a short, dark + spur protruding from beneath the ice-cap. As our friendly penguin had made + off in that direction, we elected to call the place Penguin Point, + intending to touch there on the return journey. During the afternoon + magnetic dips and a round of angles to the prominences of the mainland + were taken. + </p> + <p> + The next evidence on the sea-ice question came in the shape of a line of + broken slabs of ice to the north, sticking out of the snow like the ruins + of an ancient graveyard. At one hundred and fifteen miles the line was so + close that we left the sledge to investigate it, finding a depression ten + feet deep, through which wound a glistening riband of sea-water. It + reminded one of a creek in flat, Australian country, and the illusion was + sustained by a dark skua gull—in its slow flight much like a crow. + It was a fissure in old thick sea-ice. + </p> + <p> + Sunday, and the first day of December, brought good weather and a clear + view of the mainland. A bay opened to the east of Penguin Point, from + which the coast trended to the south-east. Across a crack in the sea-ice + we could just distinguish a low indented line like the glacier-tongue, we + had already crossed. It might have been a long promontory of land for all + we knew. Behind it was a continuous ice-blink and on our left, to the + north, a deep blue "water sky." It seemed worth while continuing on an + easterly course approximately parallel with the coast. + </p> + <p> + We were faced by another glacier-tongue; a fact which remained unproven + for a week at least. From the sea-ice on to the glacier—the Ninnis + Glacier—there was a gentle rise to a prominent knoll of one hundred + and seventy feet. Here our distance from the Hut amounted to one hundred + and fifty-two miles, and the spot was reckoned a good situation for the + last depot. + </p> + <p> + In taking magnetic observations, it was interesting to find that the "dip" + amounted to 87 degrees 44', while the declination, which had varied + towards the west, swung at this our most northerly station a few degrees + to the east. We were curving round the South Magnetic Pole. Many points on + the coast were fixed from an adjoining hill to which Correll and I trudged + through sandy snow, while McLean stayed behind erecting the depot-mound, + placing a food-bag, kerosene tin, black cloth and miner's pick on the top. + </p> + <p> + With four weeks' provisions we made a new start to cross the Ninnis + Glacier on December 3, changing course to E. 30 degrees N., in great + wonderment as to what lay ahead. In this new land interest never flagged. + One never could foresee what the morrow would bring forth. + </p> + <p> + Across rolling "downs" of soft, billowy snow we floundered for twenty-four + miles, on the two following days. Not a wind-ripple could be seen. We were + evidently in a region of comparative calms, which was a remarkable thing, + considering that the windiest spot in the world was less than two hundred + miles away. + </p> + <p> + After several sunny days McLean and I had very badly cracked lips. It had + been often remarked at the Hut that the standard of humour greatly + depreciated during the winter and this caused McLean and me many a + physical pang while sledging, as we would laugh at the least provocation + and open all the cracks in our lips. Eating hard plasmon biscuits was a + painful pleasure. Correll, who was immune from this affliction, tanned to + the rich hue of the "nut-brown maiden." + </p> + <p> + On December 5, at the top of a rise, we were suddenly confronted with a + new vision—"Thalassa!" was our cry, "the sea!" but a very different + sea from that which brought such joy to the hearts of the wandering + Greeks. Unfolded to the horizon was a plain of pack-ice, thickly studded + with bergs and intersected by black leads of open water. In the north-east + was a patch of open sea and above it, round to the north, lowering banks + of steel-blue cloud. We had come to the eastern side of Ninnis Glacier. + </p> + <p> + At this point any analogy which could possibly have been found with + Wilkes's coastline ceased. It seems probable that he charted as land the + limits of the pack-ice in 1840. + </p> + <p> + The excitement of exploring this new realm was to be deferred. Even as we + raised the tent, the wind commenced to whistle and the air became + surcharged with snow. Three skua gulls squatted a few yards away, + squawking at our approach, and a few snow petrels sailed by in the + gathering blizzard. + </p> + <p> + Through the 6th, 7th and 8th and most of the 9th it raged, during which + time we came definitely to the conclusion that as social entertainers we + were complete failures. We exhausted all the reserve topics of + conversation, discussed our Universities, sports, friends and homes. We + each described the scenery we liked best; notable always for the sunny + weather and perfect calm. McLean sailed again in Sydney Harbour, Correll + cycled and ran his races, I wandered in the South Australian hills or + rowed in the "eights," while the snow swished round the tent and the wind + roared over the wastes of ice. + </p> + <p> + Avoiding a few crevasses on the drop to sea-level on December 10, the + sledge was manoeuvred over a tide-crack between glacier and sea-ice. The + latter was traversed by frequent pressure-ridges; hummocks and broken + pinnacles being numerous. + </p> + <p> + The next six days out on the broken sea-ice were full of incident. The + weather was gloriously sunny till the 13th, during which time the sledge + had to be dragged through a forest of pinnacles and over areas of soft, + sticky slush which made the runners execrable for hours. Ponds of open + water, by which basked a few Weddell seals, became a familiar sight. We + tried to maintain a south-easterly course for the coast, but miles were + wasted in the tortuous maze of ice—"a wildering Theban ruin of + hummock and serrac." + </p> + <p> + The sledge-meter broke down and gave the ingenious Correll a proposition + which he ably solved. McLean and I had a chronic weakness of the eyes from + the continual glare. Looking at the other two fellows with their long + protruding goggles made me think of Banquo's ghost: "Thou hast no + speculation in those eyes that thou dost glare with." + </p> + <p> + I had noticed that some of the tide-cracks had opened widely and, when a + blizzard blew on December 13, the thought was a skeleton in my brain + cupboard. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th an Emperor penguin was seen sunning himself by a pool of + water, so we decided to kill the bird and carry some meat in case of + emergency. McLean found the stomach full of fish and myriads of cestodes + in the intestines. + </p> + <p> + By dint of hard toil over cracks, ridges and jagged, broken blocks, we + came, by diverging to the south-west, to the junction between shifting + pack and fast bay-ice, and even there, we afterwards shuddered to find, it + was at least forty-five miles, as the penguin skis, to the land. + </p> + <p> + It was a fine flat surface on which the sledge ran, and the miles + commenced to fly by, comparatively speaking. Except for an occasional deep + rift, whose bottom plumbed to the sea-water, the going was excellent. Each + day the broken ice on our left receded, the mainland to the south grew + closer and traces of rock became discernible on the low, fractured cliffs. + </p> + <p> + On December 17 a huge rocky bluff—Horn Bluff—stood out from + the shore. It had a ram-shaped bow like a Dreadnought battleship and, + adjoining it, there were smaller outcrops of rock on the seaward + ice-cliffs. On its eastern side was a wide bay with a well-defined cape—Cape + Freshfield—at the eastern extremity about thirty miles away. + </p> + <p> + The Bluff was a place worth exploring. At a distance of more than fifteen + miles, the spot suggested all kinds of possibilities, and in council we + argued that it was useless to go much farther east, as to touch at the + land would mean a detour on the homeward track and time would have to be + allowed for that. + </p> + <p> + At a point two hundred and seventy miles from the Hut, in latitude 68 + degrees 18' S., longitude 150 degrees 12' E., we erected our "farthest + east" camp on December 18, after a day's tramp of eighteen miles. Here, + magnetic "dips" and other observations were made throughout the morning of + the 19th. It was densely overcast, with sago snow falling, but by 3 P.M. + of the same day the clouds had magically cleared and the first stage of + the homeward journey had commenced. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI HORN BLUFF AND PENGUIN POINT + </h2> + <h3> + by C. T. MADIGAN + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + What thrill of grandeur ours + When first we viewed the column'd fell! + What idle, lilting verse can tell + Of giant fluted towers, + O'er-canopied with immemorial snow + And riven by a glacier's azure flow? +</pre> + <p> + As we neared Horn Bluff, on the first stage of our homeward march, the + upper layers of snow were observed to disappear, and the underlying ice + became thinner; in corrugated sapphire plains with blue reaches of + sparkling water. Cracks bridged with flimsy snow continually let one + through into the water. McLean and I both soaked our feet and once I was + immersed to the thighs, having to stop and put on dry socks and finnesko. + It was a chilly process allowing the trousers to dry on me. + </p> + <p> + The mountain, pushing out as a great promontory from the coast amid the + fast sea-ice, towered up higher as our sledge approached its foot. A great + shadow was cast on the ice, and, when more than a mile away, we left the + warm sunshine. + </p> + <p> + Awed and amazed, we beheld the lone vastness of it all and were mute. + Rising out of the flat wilderness over which we had travelled was a + mammoth vertical barrier of rock rearing its head to the skies above. The + whole face for five miles was one magnificent series of organ-pipes. The + deep shade was heightened by the icy glare beyond it. Here was indeed a + Cathedral of Nature, where the "still, small voice" spoke amid an + ineffable calm. + </p> + <p> + Far up the face of the cliff snow petrels fluttered like white + butterflies. It was stirring to think that these majestic heights had + gazed out across the wastes of snow and ice for countless ages, and never + before had the voices of human beings echoed in the great stillness nor + human eyes surveyed the wondrous scene. + </p> + <p> + From the base of the organ-pipes sloped a mass of debris; broken blocks of + rock of every size tumbling steeply to the splintered hummocks of the + sea-ice. + </p> + <p> + Standing out from the top of this talus-slope were several white + "beacons," up to which we scrambled when the tent was pitched. This was a + tedious task as the stones were ready to slide down at the least touch, + and often we were carried down several yards by a general movement. + Wearing soft finnesko, we ran the risk of getting a crushed foot among the + large boulders. Amongst the rubble were beds of clay, and streams of + thaw-water trickled down to the surface of a frozen lake. + </p> + <p> + After rising two hundred feet, we stood beneath the beacons which loomed + above to a height of one hundred and twenty-eight feet. The organ-pipes + were basaltic** in character but, to my great joy, I found the beacons + were of sedimentary rock. After a casual examination, the details were + left till the morrow. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** To be exact the igneous rook was a very thick sill of dolerite, +</pre> + <p> + That night we had a small celebration on raisins, chocolate and + apple-rings, besides the ordinary fare of hoosh, biscuit and cocoa. + Several times we were awakened by the crash of falling stones. Snow + petrels had been seen coming home to their nests in the beacons, which + were weathered out into small caves and crannies. From the camp we could + hear their harsh cries. + </p> + <p> + The scene in the morning sun was a brilliant one. The great columnar + rampart ran almost north and south and the tent was on its eastern side. + So what was in dark shadow on the day before was now radiantly illumined. + </p> + <p> + Correll remained behind on the sea-ice with a theodolite to take heights + of the various strata. McLean and I, armed with aneroid, glasses, + ruck-sack, geological hammer (ice-axe) and camera, set out for the foot of + the talus-slope. + </p> + <p> + The beacons were found to be part of a horizontal, stratified series of + sandstones underlying the igneous rock. There were bands of coarse gravel + and fine examples of stream-bedding interspersed with seams of + carbonaceous shale and poor coal. Among the debris were several pieces of + sandstone marked by black, fossilized plant-remains. The summits of the + beacons were platforms of very hard rock, baked by the volcanic overflow. + The columns, roughly hexagonal and weathered to a dull-red, stood above in + sheer perpendicular lines of six hundred and sixty feet in altitude. + </p> + <p> + After taking a dozen photographs of geological and general interest and + stuffing the sack and our pockets with specimens, we picked a track down + the shelving talus to a lake of fresh water which was covered with a + superficial crust of ice beneath which the water ran. The surface was + easily broken and we fetched the aluminium cover of the cooker, filling it + with three gallons of water, thus saving kerosene for almost a day. + </p> + <p> + After McLean had collected samples of soil, lichens, algae and moss, and + all the treasures had been labelled, we lunched and harnessed-up once more + for the homeward trail. + </p> + <p> + For four miles we ran parallel to the one-thousand-foot wall of Horn Bluff + meeting several boulders stranded on the ice, as well as the fragile shell + of a tiny sea-urchin. The promontory was domed with snow and ice, more + than one thousand two hundred feet above sea-level. From it streamed a + blue glacier overflowing through a rift in the face. Five miles on our + way, the sledge passed from frictionless ice to rippled snow and with a + march of seven miles, following lunch, we pitched camp. + </p> + <p> + Every one was tired that night, and our prayer to the Sleep Merchant in + the book of Australian verse was for: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Twenty gallons of balmy sleep, + Dreamless, and deep, and mild, + Of the excellent brand you used to keep + When I was a little child. +</pre> + <p> + For three days, December 22, 23 and 24, the wind soughed at thirty miles + per hour and the sky was a compact nimbus, unveiling the sun at rare + moments. Through a mist of snow we steered on a north-west course towards + the one-hundred-and-fifty-two mile depot. The wind was from the south-east + true, and this information, with hints from the sun-compass, gave us the + direction. With the sail set, on a flat surface, among ghostly bergs and + over narrow leads we ran for forty-seven miles with scarce a clear view of + what lay around. The bergs had long ramps of snow leading close up to + their summits on the windward side and in many cases the intervals between + these ramps and the bergs were occupied by deep moats. + </p> + <p> + One day we were making four knots an hour under all canvas through thick + drift. Suddenly, after a gradual ascent, I was on the edge of a moat, + thirty feet deep. I shouted to the others and, just in time, the sledge + was slewed round on the very brink. + </p> + <p> + We pushed on blindly: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The toil of it none may share; + By yourself must the way be won + Through fervid or frozen air + Till the overland journey's done. +</pre> + <p> + Christmas Day! The day that ever reminds one of the sweet story of old, + the lessons of childhood, the joys of Santa Claus—the day on which + the thoughts of the wildest wanderer turn to home and peace and love. All + the world was cheerful; the sun was bright, the air was calm. It was the + hometrail, provisions were in plenty, the sledge was light and our hearts + lighter. + </p> + <p> + The eastern edge of Ninnis Glacier was near, and, leaving the sea-ice, we + were soon straining up the first slope, backed by a line of ridges + trending north-east and south-west, with shallow valleys intervening. On + the wind-swept crests there were a few crevasses well packed with snow. + </p> + <p> + It was a day's work of twelve miles and we felt ready for Christmas + dinner. McLean was cook and had put some apple-rings to soak in the cooker + after the boil-up at lunch. Beyond this and the fact that he took some + penguin-meat into the tent, he kept his plans in the deepest mystery. + Correll and I were kept outside making things snug and taking the + meteorological observations, until the word came to enter. When at last we + scrambled in, a delicious smell diffused through the tent, and there was a + sound of frying inside the cooker-pot. We were presented with a menu which + read: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Peace on earth, good will to men." + + Xmas 1912 KING GEORGE V. LAND + 200 miles east of Winter Quarters. + + MENU DU DINER + Hors d'oeuvre + Biscuit de plasmon Ration du lard glace +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Entree + Monsieur l'Empereur Pingouin fricasse + + Piece de Resistance + Pemmican naturel a l'Antarctique + + Dessert + Hotch-potch de pommes et de raisins + Chocolat au sucre glaxone + Liqueur bien ancienne de l'Ecosse + + Cigarettes Tabac +</pre> + <p> + The hors d'oeuvre of bacon ration was a welcome surprise. McLean had + carried the tin unknown to us up till this moment. The penguin, fried in + lumps of fat taken from the pemmican, and a little butter, was delicious. + In the same pot the hoosh was boiled and for once we noted an added + piquancy. Next followed the plum-pudding—dense mixture of powdered + biscuit, glaxo, sugar, raisins and apple-rings, surpassing the finest, + flaming, holly-decked, Christmas creation. + </p> + <p> + Then came the toasts. McLean produced the whisky from the medical kit and + served it out, much diluted, in three mugs. There was not three ounces in + all, but it flavoured the water. + </p> + <p> + I was asked to call "The King." McLean proposed "The Other Sledgers" in a + noble speech, wishing them every success; and then there were a few drops + left to drink to "Ourselves," whom Correll eulogized to our complete + satisfaction. We then drew on the meagre supply of cigarettes and lay on + our bags, feeling as comfortable as the daintiest epicure after a + twelve-course dinner, drinking his coffee and smoking his cigar. + </p> + <p> + We talked till twelve o'clock, and then went outside to look at the + midnight sun, shining brightly just above the southern horizon. Turning + in, we were once more at home in our dreams. + </p> + <p> + By a latitude shot at noon on Boxing Day, I found that our position was + not as far north as expected. The following wind had been probably + slightly east of south-east and too much westing had been made. From a + tangle of broken ridges whose surface was often granular, + half-consolidated ice, the end of the day opened up a lilac plain of + sea-ice ahead. We were once more on the western side of Ninnis Glacier and + the familiar coast of Penguin Point, partly hidden by an iceberg, sprang + into view. The depot hill to the north-west could be recognized, twenty + miles away, across a wide bay. By hooch-time we had found a secure path to + the sea-ice, one hundred and eighty feet below. + </p> + <p> + The wind sprang up opportunely on the morning of the 27th, and the sun was + serene in a blue sky. Up went the sail and with a feather-weight load we + strode off for the depot eighteen miles distant. Three wide rifts in the + sea-ice exercised our ingenuity during the day's march, but by the time + the sun was in the south-west the sledge was sawing through the sandy snow + of the depot hill. It was unfortunate that the food of this depot had been + cached so far out of our westerly course, as the time expended in + recovering it might have been profitably given to a survey of the mainland + east of Penguin Point. At 6.20 P.M., after eighteen and a quarter miles, + the food-bag was sighted on the mound, and that night the dinner at our + one-hundred-and-fifty-two-mile depot was marked by some special + innovations. + </p> + <p> + Penguin Point, thirty miles away, bore W. 15 degrees S., and next day we + made a bid for it by a march of sixteen miles. There was eleven days' + ration on the sledge to take us to Mount Murchison, ninety miles away; + consequently the circuitous route to the land was held to be a safe + "proposition." + </p> + <p> + Many rock faces became visible, and I was able to fix numerous prominent + points with the theodolite. + </p> + <p> + At three miles off the coast, the surface became broken by ridges, small + bergs and high, narrow cupolas of ice surrounded by deep moats. One of + these was very striking. It rose out of a wind-raked hollow to a height of + fifty feet; just the shape of an ancient Athenian helmet. McLean took a + photograph. + </p> + <p> + As at Horn Bluff, the ice became thinner and freer of snow as we drew near + the Point. The rocky wall under which the tent was raised proved to be + three hundred feet high, jutting out from beneath the slopes of ice. From + here the coast ran almost south on one side and north-west on the other. + On either hand there were dark faces corniced with snow. + </p> + <p> + The next day was devoted to exploration. Adelie penguins waddled about the + tide-crack over which we crossed to examine the rock, which was of + coarse-grained granite, presenting great, vertical faces. Hundreds of snow + petrels flew about and some stray skua gulls were seen. + </p> + <p> + Near the camp, on thick ice, were several large blocks of granite which + had floated out from the shore and lay each in its pool of thaw-water, + covered with serpulae and lace coral. + </p> + <p> + Correll, our Izaak Walton, had brought a fishing-line and some + penguin-meat. He stopped near the camp fishing while McLean and I + continued down the coast, examining the outcrops. The type of granite + remained unchanged in the numerous exposures. + </p> + <p> + I had noticed a continuous rustling sound for some time and found at + length that it was caused by little streams of ice-crystals running down + the steep slopes in cascades, finally pouring out in piles on the sea-ice. + The partial thaw in the sunlight causes the semi-solid ice to break up + into separate grains. Sometimes whole areas of the surface, in delicate + equilibrium, would suddenly flow rapidly away. + </p> + <p> + For three miles we walked, and as the next four miles of visible coast + presented no extensive outcrops, we turned back for lunch. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon, on the summit of the Point, it was found that an + uneven rocky area, about a quarter of a mile wide, ran backwards to the + ice-falls of the plateau. The surface was very broken and weathered, + covered in patches by abundant lichens and mosses. Fossicking round in the + gravel, Correll happened on some tiny insect-like mites living amongst the + moss or on the moist under side of slabs of stone. This set us all + insect-hunting. Alcohol was brought in a small bottle from the tent, and + into this they were swept in myriads with a camel's-hair brush. From the + vantage-point of a high rock in the neighbourhood the long tongue of Mertz + Glacier could be seen running away to the north. + </p> + <p> + At 8.30 A.M., on New Year's Eve, we set off for another line of rocks + about four miles away to the west. There were two masses forming an angle + in the ice-front and consisting of two main ridges rising to a height of + two hundred and fifty feet, running back into the ice-cap for a mile, and + divided by a small glacier. + </p> + <p> + This region was soon found to be a perfect menagerie of life. Seals lay + about dozing peacefully by the narrow lanes of water. Adelie penguins + strutted in procession up and down the little glacier. To reach his + rookery, a penguin would leap four feet on to a ledge of the ice-foot, + painfully pad up the glassy slope and then awkwardly scale the rocks until + he came to a level of one hundred and fifty feet. Here he took over the + care of a chick or an egg, while the other bird went to fish. Skua gulls + flew about, continually molesting the rookeries. One area of the rocks was + covered by a luxuriant growth of green moss covering guano and littered + skeletons—the site of a deserted rookery. + </p> + <p> + Correll and I went up to where the ridges converged, selecting numerous + specimens of rock and mineral and finding thousands of small red mites in + the moist gravel. Down on the southern ridge we happened on a Wilson + petrel with feathered nestlings. At this point McLean came along from the + west with the news of silver-grey petrels and Cape pigeons nesting in + hundreds. He had secured two of each species and several eggs. This was + indeed a discovery, as the eggs of the former birds had never before been + found. Quite close to us were many snow petrels in all kinds of unexpected + crevices. The light was too dull for photographing, but, while I took + magnetic "dips" on the following morning, McLean visited the silver-grey + petrels and Cape pigeons and secured a few "snaps." + </p> + <p> + The last thing we did before leaving the mainland was to kill two penguins + and cut off their breasts and this meat was, later, to serve us in good + stead. + </p> + <p> + Crossing the Mertz Glacier at any time would have been an unpleasant + undertaking, but to go straight to Mount Murchison (the site of our first + depot on the outward journey) from Penguin Point meant spanning it in a + long oblique line. It was preferable to travel quickly and safely over the + sea-ice on a north-westerly course, which, plotted on the chart, + intersected our old one-hundred-mile camp on the eastern margin of the + glacier; then to cross by the route we already knew. + </p> + <p> + By January 2 we had thrown Penguin Point five miles behind, and a spell of + unsettled weather commenced; in front lay a stretch of fourteen miles over + a good surface. The wind was behind us, blowing between thirty and forty + miles per hour, and from an overcast sky light snow was falling. + Fortunately there were fleeting glimpses of the sun, by which the course + could be adjusted. Towards evening the snow had thickened, but thanks to + the splendid assistance afforded by a sail, the white jutting spurs of the + edge of Mertz Glacier were dimly visible. + </p> + <p> + A blizzard took possession of the next day till 7 P.M., when we all + sallied out and found the identical gully in which was the + one-hundred-mile camp of the outward journey. The light was still bad and + the sky overcast, so the start was postponed till next morning. + </p> + <p> + There was food for five days on a slightly reduced ration and the depot on + Mount Murchison was forty miles away. + </p> + <p> + Once we had left the sea-ice and stood on the glacier, Aurora Peak with + its black crest showed through the glasses. Once there, the crevasses we + most dreaded would be over and the depot easily found. + </p> + <p> + A good fourteen and a quarter miles slipped by on January 4—a fine + day. On January 5 the "plot began to thicken." The clouds hung above like + a blanket, sprinkling light snow. The light was atrocious, and a few open + rents gave warning of the western zone of pitfalls. All the while there + was a shifting spectral chaos of whiteness which seemed to benumb the + faculties and destroy one's sense of reality. We decided to wait for a + change in the weather. + </p> + <p> + During the night the snow ceased, and by lunch time on the 6th the + sledge-meter recorded ten miles. The strange thing was that the firm + sastrugi present on the outward journey were now covered inches in snow, + which became deeper as we marched westward. + </p> + <p> + It was now a frequent occurrence for one of us to pitch forward with his + feet down a hidden crevasse, sometimes going through to the waist. The + travelling was most nerve-racking. When a foot went through the crust of + snow, it was impossible to tell on which side of the crevasse one happened + to be, or in what direction it ran. The only thing to do was to go ahead + and trust in Providence. + </p> + <p> + At last we landed the sledge on a narrow ridge of hard snow, surrounded by + blue, gaping pits in a pallid eternity of white. It was only when the tent + was pitched that a wide quarry was noticed a few yards away from the door. + </p> + <p> + It was now fourteen miles to the top of Mount Murchison and we had only + two more days' rations and one and a half pounds of penguin-meat. + </p> + <p> + On January 7th the light was worse than ever and snow fell. It was only + six miles across the broken country between us and the gully between Mt. + Murchison and Aurora Peak, where one could travel with some surety. A + sharp look-out was kept, and towards 11 P.M. a rim of clear sky overtopped + the southern horizon. We knew the sun would curve round into it at + midnight, so all was made ready for marching. + </p> + <p> + When the sun's disc emerged into the rift there was light; but dim, cold + and fleeting. The smallest irregularity on the surface threw a shadow + hundreds of yards long. The plain around was a bluish-grey checquer-board + of light and shade; ahead, sharp and clear against the leaden sky, stood + beautiful Aurora Peak, swathed in lustrous gold—the chariot of the + goddess herself. The awful splendour of the scene tended to depress one + and make the task more trying. I have never felt more nervous than I did + in that ghostly light in the tense silence, surrounded by the hidden + horror of fathomless depths. All was covered with a uniform layer of snow, + growing deeper and heavier at every step. I was ahead and went through + eight times in about four miles. The danger lay in getting the sledge and + one, two, or all of us on a weak snow-bridge at the same time. As long as + the sledge did not go down we were comparatively safe. + </p> + <p> + At 1.30 A.M. the sun was obscured and the light waned to dead white. Still + we went on, as the entrance of the gully between Aurora Peak and Mount + Murchison was near at hand and we had a mind to get over the danger-zone + before a snowstorm commenced. + </p> + <p> + By 5.30 A.M. we breathed freely on "terra firma," even though one sunk + through a foot of snow to feel it. It had taken six hours to do the last + five and three-quarter miles, and, being tired out with the strain on + muscles and nerves, we raised the tent, had a meal, and then slept till + noon on the 8th. It was eight miles to the depot, five miles up the gully + and three miles to the summit of Mount Murchison; and no one doubted for a + moment that it could not be done in a single day's march. + </p> + <p> + Advancing up the gully after lunch, we found that the surface became + softer, and we were soon sinking to the knees at every step. The runners, + too, sank till the decking rested on the snow, and it was as much as we + could do to shift the sledge, with a series of jerks at every step. At 6 + P.M. matters became desperate. We resolved to make a depot of everything + unnecessary, and to relay it up the mountain afterwards. + </p> + <p> + The sledge-meter, clogged with snow and almost submerged, was taken off + and stood up on end to mark a depot, whilst a pile was made of the + dip-circle, theodolite and tripod, pick, alpine rope, ice-axe, all the + mineral and biological specimens and excess clothing. + </p> + <p> + Even thus lightened, we could scarcely move the sledge, struggling on, + sinking to the thighs in the flocculent deluge. Snow now began to fall so + thickly that it was impossible to see ahead. + </p> + <p> + At 7 P.M. we finished up the last scraps of pemmican and cocoa. Biscuit, + sugar and glaxo had given out at the noon meal. There still remained one + and a half pounds of penguin meat, several infusions of tea and plenty of + kerosene for the primus. + </p> + <p> + We staggered on till 10.30 P.M., when the weather became so dense that the + sides of the gully were invisible. Tired out, we camped and had some tea. + In eight hours we had only made four and a half miles, and there was still + the worst part to come. + </p> + <p> + In our exhausted state we slept till 11 P.M. of January 9, awaking to find + the sky densely overcast and a light fog in the air. During a rift which + opened for a few minutes there was a short glimpse of the rock on Aurora + Peak. Shredding half the penguin-meat, we boiled it up and found the stew + and broth excellent. + </p> + <p> + At 1.30 A.M. we started to struggle up the gully once more, wading along + in a most helpless fashion, with breathing spells every ten yards or less. + Snow began to fall in such volume that at last it was impossible to keep + our direction with any certainty. The only thing to do was to throw up the + tent as a shelter and wait. This we did till 4.30 A.M.; but there must + have been a cloud-burst, for the heavy flakes toppled on to the tent like + tropical rain. We got into sleeping-bags, and tried to be patient and to + forget that we were hungry. + </p> + <p> + Apparently, during our seven weeks' absence, the local precipitation had + been almost continual, and snow now lay over this region in stupendous + amount. Even when one sank three feet, it was not on to the firm sastrugi + over which we had travelled out of the valley on the outward journey, for + these lay still deeper. It was hoped that the "snowdump" did not continue + over the fifty miles to the Hut, but we argued that on the windy plateau + this could scarcely be possible. + </p> + <p> + It was evident that without any more food, through this bottomless, + yielding snow, we could never haul the sledge up to the depot, a rise of + one thousand two hundred feet in three miles. One of us must go up and + bring food back, and I decided to do so as soon as the weather cleared. + </p> + <p> + We found the wait for clearer weather long and trying with empty stomachs. + As the tobacco-supply still held out, McLean and I found great solace in + our pipes. All through the rest of the day and till 5 P.M. of the next, + January 10, there was not a rift in the opaque wall of flakes. Then to our + intense relief the snow stopped, the clouds rolled to the north, and, in + swift transformation—a cloudless sky with bright sunshine! With the + rest of the penguin-meat—a bare half-pound—we had another thin + broth. Somewhat fortified, I took the food-bag and shovel, and left the + tent at 5.30 A.M. + </p> + <p> + Often sinking to the thighs, I felt faint at the first exertion. The tent + scarcely seemed to recede as I toiled onwards towards the first steep + slope. The heavy mantle of snow had so altered the contours of the side of + the gully that I was not sure of the direction of the top of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + Resting every hundred yards, I floundered on hour after hour, until, on + arriving at a high point, I saw a little shining mound standing up on a + higher point, a good mile to the east. After seven hours' wading I reached + it and found that it was the depot. + </p> + <p> + Two feet of the original eight-foot mound projected above the surface, + with the bamboo pole and a wire-and-canvas flag rising another eighteen + inches. On this, a high isolated mountain summit, six feet of snow had + actually accumulated. How thankful I was that I had brought a shovel! + </p> + <p> + At seven feet I "bottomed" on the hard snow, without result. Then, running + a tunnel in the most probable direction, I struck with the shovel the + kerosene tin which was on the top of the food-bag. On opening the bag, the + first items to appear were sugar, butter and biscuits; the next quarter of + an hour I shall not forget! + </p> + <p> + I made a swag of five days' provisions, and, taking a direct route, + attacked the three miles downhill in lengths of one hundred and fifty + yards. Coming in sight of the tent, I called to my companions to thaw some + water for a drink. So slow was progress that I could speak to them a + quarter of an hour before reaching the tent. I had been away eleven and a + half hours, covering about seven miles in all. + </p> + <p> + McLean and Correll were getting anxious about me. They said that they had + felt the cold and were unable to sleep. Soon I had produced the pemmican + and biscuit, and a scalding hoosh was made. The other two had had only a + mug of penguin broth each in three days, and I had only broken my fast a + few hours before them. + </p> + <p> + After the meal, McLean and Correll started back to the cache, two miles + down the gully, to select some of the geological and biological specimens + and to fetch a few articles of clothing. The instruments, the greater part + of the collection of rocks, crampons, sledge-meter and other odds and ends + were all left behind. Coming back with the loads slung like swags they + found that by walking in their old footsteps they made fair progress. + </p> + <p> + By 8 P.M. all had rested, every unnecessary fitting had been stripped off + the sledge and the climb to the depot commenced. I went ahead in my old + trail, Correll also making use of it; while McLean broke a track for + himself. The work was slow and heavy; nearly six hours were spent doing + those three miles. + </p> + <p> + It was a lovely evening; the yellow sun drifting through orange cloudlets + behind Aurora Peak. We were in a more appreciative mood than on the last + midnight march, exulting in the knowledge of ten days' provisions at hand + and fifty-three miles to go to reach the Hut. + </p> + <p> + In the manner of the climate, a few wisps of misty rack came sailing from + the south-east, the wind rose, snow commenced to fall and a blizzard held + sway for almost three days. It was just as well that we had found that + depot when we did. + </p> + <p> + The fifty-three miles to the Hut melted away in the pleasures of + anticipation. The first two miles, on the morning of January 14, gave us + some strenuous work, but they were luxurious in comparison with what we + expected; soon, however, the surface rapidly and permanently improved. A + forty-mile wind from the south-east was a distinct help, and by the end of + the day we had come in sight of the nunatak first seen after leaving the + Hut (Madigan Nunatak). + </p> + <p> + In two days forty miles lay behind. Down the blue ice-slopes in slippery + finnesko, and Aladdin's Cave hove in sight. We tumbled in, to be assailed + by a wonderful odour which brought back orchards, shops, people—a + breath of civilization. In the centre of the floor was a pile of oranges + surmounted by two luscious pineapples. The Ship was in! There was a bundle + of letters—Bage was back from the south—Wild had been landed + one thousand five hundred miles to the west—Amundsen had reached the + Pole! Scott was remaining in the Antarctic for another year. How we + shouted and read all together! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII WITH STILLWELL'S AND BICKERTON'S PARTIES + </h2> + <p> + Leaving Madigan's party on November 19, when forty-six miles from the Hut, + Stillwell, Hodgeman and Close of the Near-Eastern Party diverged towards a + dome-shaped mountain—Mount Hunt. A broad valley lay between their + position on the falling plateau and this eminence to the north-east. + Looking across, one would think that the depression was slight, but the + party found by aneroid that their descent was one thousand five hundred + feet into a gully filled with soft, deep snow. After skimming the polished + sastrugi of the uplands, the sledge ran heavily in the yielding drifts. + Then a gale of wind rose behind them just as the ascent on the other side + commenced, and was a valuable aid in the pull to the summit. + </p> + <p> + From the highest point or cap of what proved to be a promontory, a wide + seascape dotted with bergs was unfolded to the north. To the west the + eastern cape of Commonwealth Bay was visible, and sweeping away to the + north-east was the Mertz Glacier with sheer, jutting headlands succeeding + one another into the distance. True bearings to these points were obtained + from the camp, and, subsequently, with the help of an observation secured + on the 'Aurora' during the previous year, the trend of the glacier-tongue + was determined. Hodgeman made a series of illustrative sketches. + </p> + <p> + On November 21 the party commenced the return journey, moving directly + towards Madigan Nunatak to the south-west. This nunatak had been sighted + for the first time on the outward march, and there was much speculation as + to what the rock would prove to be. A gradual descent for seven miles + brought them on to a plain, almost at sea-level, continuous with the + valley they had crossed on the 19th further to the east. On the far side + of the plain a climb was commenced over some ice-spurs, and then a broad + field of crevasses was encountered, some of which attained a width of + fifty yards. Delayed by these and by unfavourable weather, they did not + reach Madigan Nunatak until the evening of November 20. + </p> + <p> + The outcrop—a jagged crest of rock—was found to be one hundred + and sixty yards long and thirty yards wide, placed at an altitude of two + thousand four hundred feet above sea-level. It is composed of grey + quartzose gneiss. + </p> + <p> + There were no signs of recent glaciation or of ice-striae, though the rock + was much weathered, and all the cracks and joint-planes were filled with + disintegrating material. The weathering was excessive and peculiar in + contrast with that observed on fresh exposures near the Hut and at other + localities near sea-level. + </p> + <p> + After collecting specimens and placing a small depot of food on the + highest point, the party continued their way to the Hut, reaching it on + November 27. + </p> + <p> + At Winter Quarters noticeable changes had taken place. The harbour ice had + broken back for several hundred yards and was rotten and ready to blow out + in the first strong wind; marked thawing had occurred everywhere, and many + islands of rock emerged from the snow; the ice-foot was diminishing; + penguins, seals, and flying birds made the place, for once, alive and + busy. + </p> + <p> + Bickerton, Whetter and Hannam carried on the routine of work; Whetter as + meteorologist and Hannam as magnetician, while Bickerton was busied with + the air-tractor and in preparations for sledging. Thousands of penguins' + eggs had been gathered for the return voyage of the 'Aurora', or in case + of detention for a second winter. + </p> + <p> + Murphy, Hunter and Laseron arrived from the south on the same day as + Stillwell, Hodgeman and Close came in from the east. The former party had + plodded for sixty-seven miles through a dense haze of drift. They had kept + a course roughly by the wind and the direction of sastrugi. The unvarying + white light of thick overcast days had been so severe that all were + suffering from snow-blindness. When, at length, they passed over the + endless billows of snow on to the downfalls near the coast, the weather + cleared and they were relieved to see once more the Mecca of all sledging + parties—Aladdin's Cave. + </p> + <p> + A redistribution of parties and duties was made. Hodgeman joined Whetter + and Bickerton in preparation for the air-tractor sledge's trip to the + west. Hunter took up the position of meteorologist and devoted all his + spare time to biological investigations amongst the immigrant life of + summer. Hannam continued to act as magnetician and general "handy man." + Murphy, who was also to be in charge during the summer, returned to his + stores, making preparations for departure. Hourly meteorological + observations kept every one vigilant at the Hut. + </p> + <p> + In pursuance of a plan to examine in detail the coast immediately east of + Commonwealth Bay, Stillwell set out with Laseron and Close on December 9. + The weather was threatening at the start, and they had the usual struggle + with wind and drift to "make" Aladdin's Cave. + </p> + <p> + Forewarned on the first journey of the dangers of bad ventilation, they + cleared the entrance to the cave of obstacles so that a ready exit could + be made, if, as was expected, the opening became sealed with snow-drift. + This did happen during the night, and, though everything seemed all right + the next morning, the whole party was overpowered during breakfast by foul + air, the presence of which was not suspected. + </p> + <p> + Hoosh was cooked and about to be served, when Stillwell, who was in charge + of the primus, collapsed. Close immediately seized an ice-axe, stood up, + thrust its point through the choked entrance, and fell down, overcome. + Laseron became powerless at the same time. An hour and a half later—so + it was reckoned—the party revived and cleared the opening. The hole + made by the ice-axe had been sufficient to save their lives. For a day + they were too weak and exhausted to travel, so the tent was pitched and + the night spent outside the Cave. + </p> + <p> + On December 11 they steered due south for a while and then eastward for + three days to Madigan Nunatak; delayed for twenty-four hours by a + blizzard. + </p> + <p> + Stillwell goes on to describe: "Part of the 15th was spent in making + observations, taking photographs and collecting specimens of rocks and + lichens. Breaking camp, we set out on a northerly course for the coast + down gently falling snowfields. Gradually there opened up a beautiful + vista of sea, dotted with floes and rocky islets (many of which were + ice-capped). On December 16 camp was pitched near the coast on a stretch + of firm, unbroken ice, which enabled one to venture close enough to the + edge to discover an islet connected by a snow-ramp with the icy barrier. + Lying farther off the shore was a thick fringe of islets, among and beyond + which drifted a large quantity of heavy floe. The separate floes stood + some ten or fifteen feet above the water-level, and the lengths of several + exceeded a quarter of a mile. Every accessible rock was covered with + rookeries of Adelie penguins; the first chicks were just hatched." + </p> + <p> + A theodolite traverse was run to fix the position of each islet. The + traverse-line was carried close to the ice-cliff, so that the number of + islets hidden from view was as few as possible. Snow mounds were built at + intervals and the intervening distances measured by the sledge-meter. + </p> + <p> + The party travelled west for seven and a quarter miles round a promontory—Cape + Gray—until the Winter Quarters were sighted across Commonwealth Bay. + They then turned eastward over the higher slopes, meeting the coast some + three miles to the east of the place where they had first encountered it. + The surface was for the most part covered with snow, while crevasses were + frequent and treacherous. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of the survey the sledge-meter broke down, and, as the party + were wholly dependent upon it for laying out base-lines, repairs had to be + made. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Map showing the remarkable distribution of islets fringing the coast of + Adelie Land in the vicinity of Cape Gray + </p> + <p> + On the 27th another accessible rocky projection was seen. Over it and the + many islands in the vicinity hovered flocks of snow petrels and occasional + Antarctic and Wilson petrels. Masses of Adelie penguins and chicks + constituted the main population, and skua gulls with eggs were also + observed. The rock was of garnet gneiss, traversed by black dykes of + pyroxene granulite. + </p> + <p> + A great discovery was made on December 29. On the abrupt, northern face of + some rocks connected to the ice-cap of the mainland by a causeway of ice a + large colony of sea-birds had nested. Cape pigeons, the rare silver-grey + and snow petrels were all present. Amongst these Laseron made a collection + of many eggs and birds. + </p> + <p> + The traverse-line was then carried back to Madigan Nunatak along a series + of connecting mounds. After being held up for three and a half days in a + blizzard from December 31 to January 4, the party were home once more late + on January 5, 1913. + </p> + <p> + Returning to the fortunes of the air-tractor sledge, which was to start + west early in December. Bickerton has a short story to tell, inadequate to + the months of work which were expended on that converted aeroplane. Its + career was mostly associated with misfortune, dating from a serious fall + when in flight at Adelaide, through the southern voyage of the 'Aurora', + buffeted by destructive seas, to a capacious snow shelter in Adelie Land—the + Hangar—where for the greater part of the year it remained helpless + and drift-bound. + </p> + <p> + Bickerton takes up the story: + </p> + <p> + I had always imagined that the air-tractor sledge would be most + handicapped by the low temperature; but the wind was far more formidable. + It is obvious that a machine which depends on the surrounding air for its + medium of traction could not be tested in the winds of an Adelie Land + winter. One might just as well try the capabilities of a small + motor-launch in the rapids at Niagara. Consequently we had to wait until + the high summer. + </p> + <p> + With hopes postponed to an indefinite future, another difficulty arose. As + it was found that the wind would not allow the sea-ice to form, breaking + up the floe as quickly as it appeared, the only remaining field for + manoeuvres was over the highlands to the south; under conditions quite + different from those for which it was suited. We knew that for the first + three miles there was a rise of some one thousand four hundred feet, and + in places the gradient was one in three and a half. I thought the machine + would negotiate this, but it was obviously unsafe to make the venture + without providing against a headlong rush downhill, if, for any reason, + power should fail. + </p> + <p> + Suggestions were not lacking, and after much consideration the following + device was adopted: + </p> + <p> + A hand rock-drill, somewhat over an inch in diameter, was turned up in the + lathe, cut with one-eighth-inch pitched, square threads and pointed at the + lower end. This actuated through an internal threaded brass bush held in + an iron standard; the latter being bolted to the after-end of a runner + over a hole bushed for the reception of the drill. Two sets of these were + got ready; one for each runner. + </p> + <p> + The standards were made from spare caps belonging to the wireless masts. + The timely fracture of one of the vices supplied me with sufficient + ready-cut thread of the required pitch for one brake. Cranked handles were + fitted, and the points, which came in contact with the ice, were hardened + and tempered. When protruded to their fullest extent, the spikes extended + four inches below the runners. + </p> + <p> + The whole contrivance was not very elegant, but impressed one with its + strength and reliability. To work the handles, two men had to sit one on + each runner. As the latter were narrow and the available framework, by + which to hold on and steady oneself, rather limited, the office of + brakesman promised to be one with acrobatic possibilities. + </p> + <p> + To start the engine it was necessary to have a calm and, preferably, sunny + day; the engine and oil-tank had been painted black to absorb the sun's + heat. On a windy day with sun and an air temperature of 30 degrees F., it + was only with considerable difficulty that the engine could be turned—chiefly + owing to the thickness of the lubricating oil. But on a calm day with the + temperature lower -20 degrees F. for example—the engine would swing + well enough to permit starting, after an hour or two of steady sun. If + there were no sun even in the absence of wind, starting would be out of + the question, unless the atmospheric temperature were high or the engine + were warmed with a blow-lamp. + </p> + <p> + It was not till November 15 that the right combination of conditions came. + That day was calm and sunny, and the engine needed no more stimulus than + it would have received in a "decent" climate. + </p> + <p> + Hannam, Whetter and I were the only inhabitants of the Hut at the time. + Having ascertained that the oil and air pumps were working satisfactorily, + we fitted the wheels and air-rudder, and made a number of satisfactory + trials in the vicinity of the Hut. + </p> + <p> + The wheels were soon discarded as useless; reliance being placed on the + long runners. Then the brakes were tested for the first time by driving + for a short distance uphill to the south and glissading down the slope + back to the Hut. With a man in charge of each brake, the machine, when in + full career down the slope, was soon brought to a standstill. The + experiment was repeated from a higher position on the slope, with the same + result. The machine was then taken above the steepest part of the slope + (one in three and a half) and, on slipping back, was brought to rest with + ease. The surface was hard, polished blue ice. The air-rudder, by the way, + was efficient at speeds exceeding fifteen miles per hour. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th we had a calm morning, so Whetter and I set out for Aladdin's + Cave to depot twenty gallons of benzene and six gallons of oil. The engine + was not running well, one cylinder occasionally "missing." But, in spite + of this and a head wind of fifteen miles per hour, we covered the distance + between the one-mile and the two-mile flags in three minutes. This was on + ice, and the gradient was about one in fifteen. We went no farther that + day, and it was lucky that we did so, for, soon after our return to the + Hut, it was blowing more than sixty miles per hour. + </p> + <p> + On December 2 Hodgeman joined us in a very successful trip to Aladdin's + Cave with nine 8-gallon tins of benzene on a sledge; weighing in all seven + hundred pounds. + </p> + <p> + After having such a good series of results with the machine, the start of + the real journey was fixed for December 3. At 3 P.M. it fell calm, and we + left at 4 P.M., amid an inspiriting demonstration of goodwill from the six + other men. Arms were still waving violently as we crept noisily over the + brow of the hill and the Hut disappeared from sight. + </p> + <p> + On the two steepest portions it was necessary to walk, but, these past, + the machine went well with a load of three men and four hundred pounds, + reaching Aladdin's Cave in an hour by a route free of small crevasses, + which I had discovered on the previous day. Here we loaded up with three + 100-lb. food-bags, twelve gallons of oil (one hundred and thirty pounds), + and seven hundred pounds of benzene. Altogether, there was enough fuel and + lubricating oil to run the engine at full speed for twenty hours as well + as full rations for three men for six weeks. + </p> + <p> + After a few minutes spent in disposing the loads, our procession of + machine, four sledges (in tow) and three men moved off. The going was + slow, too slow—about three miles an hour on ice. This would probably + mean no movement at all on snow which might soon be expected. But + something was wrong. The cylinder which had been missing fire a few days + before, but which had since been cleaned and put in order, was now missing + fire again, and the speed, proportionately, had dropped too much. + </p> + <p> + I made sure that the oil was circulating, and cleaned the sparking-plug, + but the trouble was not remedied. A careful examination showed no + sufficient cause, so it was assumed to be internal. To undertake anything + big was out of the question, so we dropped thirty-two gallons of benzene + and a spare propeller. Another mile went by and we came to snow, where + forty gallons of benzene, twelve gallons of oil and a sledge were + abandoned. The speed was now six miles an hour and we did two miles in + very bad form. As it was now 11 P.M. and the wind was beginning to rise, + we camped, feeling none too pleased with the first day's results. + </p> + <p> + While in the sleeping-bag I tried to think out some rapid way of + discovering what was wrong with the engine. The only conclusion to which I + could come was that it would be best to proceed to the cave at eleven and + three-quarter miles—Cathedral Grotto—and there remove the + faulty cylinder, if the weather seemed likely to be favourable; if it did + not, to go on independently with our man-hauled sledge. + </p> + <p> + On December 4 the wind was still blowing about twenty miles per hour when + we set to work on the machine. I poured some oil straight into the + crank-case to make sure that there was sufficient, and we also tested and + improved the ignition. At four o'clock the wind dropped, and in an hour + the engine was started. While moving along, the idle cylinder was ejecting + oil, and this, together with the fact that it had no compression, made me + hope that broken piston-rings were the source of the trouble. It would + only take two hours to remove three cylinders, take one ring from each of + the two sound ones for the faulty one, and all might yet be well! + </p> + <p> + These thoughts were brought to a sudden close by the engine, without any + warning, pulling up with such a jerk that the propeller was smashed. On + moving the latter, something fell into the oil in the crank-case and + fizzled, while the propeller could only be swung through an angle of about + 30°. We did not wait to examine any further, but fixed up the man-hauling + sledge, which had so far been carried by the air-tractor sledge, and + cached all except absolute necessities. + </p> + <p> + We were sorry to leave the machine, though we had never dared to expect a + great deal from it in the face of the unsuitable conditions found to + prevail in Adelie Land. However, the present situation was disappointing. + </p> + <p> + Having stuffed up the exhaust-pipes to keep out the drift, we turned our + backs to the aero-sledge and made for the eleven-and-three-quarter-mile + cave, arriving there at 8 P.M. There was a cheering note from Bage in the + "Grotto", wishing us good luck. + </p> + <p> + To avoid crevasses we steered first of all to the southwest on the morning + of the 5th, which was clear and bright. After six miles the sastrugi + became hard and compact, so the course was changed to due west. Shortly + afterwards, a piece of rock ** which we took to be a meteorite, was found + on the surface of the snow. It measured approximately five inches by three + inches by three and a half inches and was covered with a black scale which + in places had blistered; three or four small pieces of this scale were + lying within three inches of the main piece. Most of the surface was + rounded, except one face which looked as if it had been fractured. It was + lying on the snow, in a slight depression, about two and a half inches + below the mean surface, and there was nothing to indicate that there had + been any violent impact. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** This has since been examined by Professor E. Skeats and +Stillwell, who report it to be an interesting form of meteorite, +containing amongst other minerals, plagioclase felspar. This is, we +believe, the first occasion on which a meteorite has been found in the +Antarctic regions.—ED. +</pre> + <p> + At eight o'clock that night we had done twelve miles, losing sight of the + sea at a height of about three thousand feet. All felt pleased and looked + forward to getting over a ridge ahead, which, from an altitude of four + thousand feet, ran in pencilled outline to the western point of + Commonwealth Bay. + </p> + <p> + On December 6 it was drifting hard, and part of the morning was spent + theorizing on our prospects in an optimistic vein. This humour gradually + wore off as the thick drift continued, with a fifty-mile wind, for three + days. + </p> + <p> + At 5 P.M. on December 8 a move was made. The drift was what our + Hut-standard reckoned to be "moderate," but the wind had fallen to thirty + miles an hour and had veered to the east; so the sail was hoisted. The + going was difficult over a soft surface, and after five hours, by which + time the drift had perceptibly thickened, we had done eight miles. + </p> + <p> + The thirst each one of us developed in those earlier days was prodigious. + When filling the cooker with snow it was hard to refrain from packing it + "up to the knocker" in order to obtain a sufficient supply of water. + </p> + <p> + The next day it blew harder and drifted thicker. Above the loud flapping + of the tent and the incessant sizzling of the drift we discussed our + situation. We were one week "out" and had travelled thirty-one miles. + Future progress depended entirely on the weather—unfortunately. We + were beginning to learn that though the season was "meteorologically" + called summer, it was hardly recognizable as such. + </p> + <p> + December 10 was Whetter's birthday. It was heralded by an extra strong + wind and the usual liberal allowance of drift. I was cook, and made some + modifications in the meal. Hodgeman (who was the previous cook) used to + make hoosh as thick as a biscuit, so we had some thin stuff for a change + —two mugs each. Then really strong tea; we boiled it for some time + to make sure of the strength and added some leaves which had already done + good service. + </p> + <p> + Several times fault had been found with the way the tent was pitched. I + had not yet tried my hand at being the "man inside" during this operation. + One day, while every one was grumbling, I said I would take the + responsibility at the next camp; the proposal being received with grunts + of assent. When the job was finished and the poles appeared to be spread + taut, I found myself alone in what seemed to me a cathedral. Feeling + pleased, I called for the others to come in, and arranged myself in a + corner with an "I-told-you-so" expression on my face, ready to receive + their congratulations. Hodgeman came in first. He is not a large man, + though he somehow gives one the impression that he is, but after he had + made himself comfortable the place seemed smaller. When half-way through + the "spout," coming in, he gave a grunt which I took to be one of + appreciation. Then Whetter came in. He is of a candid disposition: "Ho, + ho, laddie, what the dickens have you done with the tent?" + </p> + <p> + I tried to explain their mistake. But it was no good. When we were all + inside, I couldn't help seeing that the tent was much smaller than it had + ever been before, and we had to huddle together most uncomfortably. And + there were three days like this. + </p> + <p> + At nine o'clock one morning Hodgeman woke me with, "What about getting a + move on?" The wind had dropped to forty miles an hour, and through a tiny + hole in the tent the ground could be seen. Amid a thinning fog of drift, + the disc of the sun was just visible. + </p> + <p> + We made a start and then plodded on steadily till midnight over a soft and + uncomfortable surface. Shortly after that hour I looked at the + sledge-meter and found that it had ceased working; the sprocket had been + knocked off. Repair was out of the question, as every joint was soldered + up; so without more ado we dropped it. In future we were to estimate our + speed, having already had some good experience in this way. + </p> + <p> + No sooner had Friday December 13 come on the scene than a catastrophe + overtook us. The superstitious might have blamed Fate, but on this + occasion there was no room for doubt; the fault was mine. The sail was up + and, while braking the load upwind, I slipped and fell, allowing the + sledge to collide with a large sastruga. The bow struck the solid snow + with such force that it was smashed. + </p> + <p> + Next day a new bow was manufactured from a spare bamboo which had been + brought as a depot pole. It took some time splitting and bending this into + position and then lashing it with raw hide. But the finished article fully + justified the means, and, in spite of severe treatment, the makeshift + stood for the rest of the journey. + </p> + <p> + While on the march on December 16, the wind dropped and the drift ceased + for the first time since December 5; for eleven days it had been heavy or + moderate. Before we got into harness on the same day, a Wilson petrel flew + above us. This little touch of life, together with the bright sun, light + wind and lack of drift enabled us to start away in better spirits than had + been our wont. + </p> + <p> + The next four days passed in excellent weather. The surface was mainly + hard and the clusters of large sastrugi could generally be avoided. + Patches of softer "piecrust" were met but only lasted for two or three + miles. Making up for lost time, we did a few miles short of one hundred in + five days. + </p> + <p> + Unfortunately there was always drift at midday, so that it was impossible + to get a latitude "shot" with a sextant and artificial horizon. + </p> + <p> + On December 19 camp was pitched at 1 A.M. before a glorious view; an + horizon of sea from west to north-east and white fields of massive bergs. + In the extreme west there was something which very closely resembled + pack-ice. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th the surface was softer and the snow more recent, but the wind + was behind us and for part of the day the track led downhill into a + peculiar saucer-shaped depression which, on our first entry, looked like a + valley closed at the far end, while when we came to the middle it resolved + itself once more into a saucer. + </p> + <p> + Camping here, I managed to get a good time-shot, so that, provided we + occupied this camp on the return journey, I reckoned that I could get the + watch-rate and fix the approximate longitude of the pack-ice, which for + two days had been clearly within view. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Adelie Land: Showing tracks of the Western Sledging Party from the Main + Base. + </p> + <p> + December 21 marked the end of the good weather, for drift and wind came on + apace lasting four days, the wind attaining about eighty miles an hour. + Sleeping-bags and tent-cloth were soon in a wretched state, sodden with + moisture. Christmas Day was not very enjoyable in cramped quarters, the + tent having encroached on us owing to drift settling around it. Still, by + the evening, it was clear enough to break camp and we made a spurt of + thirteen miles. + </p> + <p> + From the next camp there was a good view to the northwest, the pack + extending beyond the limit of vision. The land trended to the + west-north-west and we could see it at a distance of fifty miles from our + altitude. + </p> + <p> + All things considered, I thought it right to turn back at this stage. In + twenty-six days we had done one hundred and fifty-eight miles, and + ninety-seven miles of that distance had been covered on the only five + consecutive good days. We waited some time until the sun appeared, when I + was able to get an observation while Hodgeman made a sketch of the view. + </p> + <p> + By December 30 we reoccupied the camp of the 20th, sixteen miles on the + return journey. A time-shot was successful, and observations were also + taken for magnetic declination. + </p> + <p> + As the weather was fine, Hodgeman and Whetter went to investigate two + odd-looking pyramids about five miles away. These turned out to be high + snow-ramps, two hundred yards long, on the lee side of open crevasses. + </p> + <p> + The last day of 1912 was calm and "snow-blind"—the first of this + particular variety we had experienced without drift. A New Year pudding + was made of soaked biscuit, cocoa, milk, sugar, butter, and a few + remaining raisins, and it was, of course, an immense success. + </p> + <p> + On January 1 and the two succeeding days the drift was so thick that we + had to lie up and amuse ourselves discussing various matters of individual + interest. Hodgeman gave us a lecture on architecture, explaining the + beauties of certain well-known buildings. Whetter would describe some + delicate surgical operation, while I talked about machinery. I also worked + up the time-shots, and the hours passed quickly. If only our sleeping-bags + had been drier we might have enjoyed ourselves at intervals. + </p> + <p> + The evening of the 4th found us camped ten miles nearer home, beside a + large crevasse and with a closer view of the bay seen on December 20. This + time we were greatly excited to see rocks outcropping near the water-line, + and an investigation of them was resolved upon for the following day. + </p> + <p> + The morning broke overcast and ghostly white. Although only ten yards away + from it, we could not see the huge crevasse in our vicinity. Thus our + expedition to the rocks had to be abandoned. + </p> + <p> + After a week's travelling, during which obscured skies and intermittent + drift were the rule, we were once more in the neighbourhood of Madigan's + spring depot, forty-five miles west of Aladdin's Cave. It had been passed + without our seeing any signs of it on the outward journey, and, as we + never relied on finding it, we did not mind about missing it again. + </p> + <p> + Thick drift and a fifty-mile wind on January 12 kept us confined for + thirty-six hours. It was clear enough after noon on the 13th, and five + miles were covered in four hours through thick surface drift. What the + course was we did not care as we steered by the sastrugi. If ever a man + had any "homing instinct" it would surely show itself on such an occasion + as this. + </p> + <p> + Travelling in driving snow used to have a curious effect on me. I always + imagined that we were just coming to an avenue of trees running at right + angles to our course. What produced this idea I have not the slightest + suspicion, but while it lasted, the impression was very strong. + </p> + <p> + To avoid the drift, which was thickest by day, travelling had for some + time been conducted at night. On the evening of the 14th, during a clear + spell, a ridge rose up behind, and, in front, a wide bay was visible with + its far eastern point rising in mirage. This was taken to be Commonwealth + Bay, but the fact could not be verified as the drift came on thickly once + more. The day's march was twelve miles by concerted reckoning. + </p> + <p> + Next day we went three miles to the north to see if any recognizable bergs + would come in sight, but were stopped by crevasses. The eastward course + was therefore resumed. + </p> + <p> + After continuing for about a mile Hodgeman told us to stop, flung down his + harness and dashed back to the sledge, rummaging in the instrument-box + till he found the glasses. "Yes, it's the aeroplane," he said. + </p> + <p> + This remark took us by surprise as we had not expected it for eight miles + at least. It was about midnight—the time when mirage was at a + maximum. Consequently, all agreed that the machine was about twelve miles + away, and we went on our way rejoicing, steering towards the Cathedral + Grotto which was two miles south of the aero-sledge. After three miles we + camped, and, it being my birthday, the two events were celebrated by + "blowing in" the whisky belonging to the medical outfit. + </p> + <p> + On the 16th the weather was thick, and we marched east for ten miles, + passing a tea-leaf, which it was afterwards found must have come downwind + from the Grotto. For eight hours nothing could be done in thick drift, and + then, on breaking camp, we actually came to a flag which had been planted + by Ninnis in the spring, thirteen miles south-east of Aladdin's Cave. The + distance to the air-tractor had been over-estimated, and the Grotto must + have been passed quite close. + </p> + <p> + We made off down the hill, running over the crevasses at a great pace. + Aladdin's Cave with its medley of boxes, tins, picks and shovels, + gladdened our eyes at 10 P.M. on the 17th. Conspicuous for its colour was + an orange, stuck on a pick, which told us at once that the Ship was in. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII THE SHIP'S STORY + </h2> + <h3> + by Captain J. K. Davis + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + By sport of bitter weather + We're warty, strained, and scarred + From the kentledge on the kelson + To the slings upon the yard. + KIPLING. +</pre> + <p> + Dr. Mawson's plans, as laid before the Royal Geographical Society in 1911, + provided for an extensive oceanographical campaign in the immense stretch + of ocean to the southward of Australia. Very little was known of the + sea-floor in this area, there being but a few odd soundings only, beyond a + moderate distance from the Australian coast. Even the great Challenger + expedition had scarcely touched upon it; and so our Expedition had a + splendid field for investigation. + </p> + <p> + The first discovery made in this connexion on board the 'Aurora' was the + fact that deep-water work is more intricate than books would make it + appear. Although text-books had been carefully studied on the subject, it + was found that most of them passed over the practical side of the work in + a few words, insufficient to give us much help in carrying out difficult + operations with the vessel rolling and tumbling about in the heavy seas of + the Southern Ocean. + </p> + <p> + So it was only after a good deal of hard work and many disappointments + that the experience was gained which enabled us, during the later stages + of the Expedition, to do useful and successful work. + </p> + <p> + Before passing on to the operations of the 'Aurora' during the winter of + 1912, I shall briefly refer to the equipment provided for oceanographical + work. + </p> + <p> + The Lucas Automatic Sounding Machine was situated on the port side of the + forecastle head. It was suitable for depths up to six thousand fathoms, + being fitted with a grooved wheel so as to be driven by a rope belt from a + steam-winch or other engine. The wire was wound in by means of a small + horizontal steam-engine which had been specially designed for the + 'Scotia', of the Scottish Antarctic Expedition (1902) and was kindly lent + to us by Dr. W. S. Bruce. + </p> + <p> + The wire as it is paid out passes over a measuring wheel, the revolutions + of which record on a dial the number of fathoms out. A spring brake, which + is capable of stopping the reel instantly, is kept out of action by the + tension of the wire, but when the sinker strikes the bottom, the loss of + tension allows the brake to spring back and stop the reel. The depth can + then be read off on the dial. + </p> + <p> + A hollow iron tube called a driver is attached to a piece of hemp line + spliced into the outer end of the sounding wire. This driver bears one or + two weights to the bottom and detaches them on striking it; a specimen of + the bottom being recovered in the hollow part of the tube which is fitted + with valves to prevent water from running through it on the way up. + Immediately the driver and weight strike the bottom, the reel + automatically stops paying out wire. + </p> + <p> + To obtain a deep-sea sounding on the 'Aurora', the vessel was stopped, + turned so as to bring the wind on the port-bow and kept as nearly + stationary as possible; the engines being used to balance any drift of the + vessel due to wind or sea. + </p> + <p> + The difficulties of sounding in the Southern Ocean were much increased by + the almost constant, heavy swell. The breaking strain of the wire being + only two hundred and forty pounds and the load it had to carry to the + bottom weighing nearly fifty-six pounds in air, it could easily be + understood that the sudden strain imposed by the violent rolling of the + vessel often resulted in the parting of the wire. We soon learnt to handle + both vessel and sounding machine in such a way as to entail the least + possible strain on the wire. + </p> + <p> + Of all the operations conducted on board the 'Aurora', deep-sea trawling + was the one about which we had most to learn. Dr. W. S. Bruce gave me most + valuable advice on the subject before we left England. Later, this was + supplemented by a cruise in Australian waters on the 'Endeavour', of the + Commonwealth Fisheries Investigation. Here I was able to observe various + trawling operations in progress, subsequently applying the information + gained to our own requirements on the 'Aurora'. + </p> + <p> + A short description of our trawling arrangements may be useful to those + who are engaged in this work on board a vessel not specially designed for + it. + </p> + <p> + We were provided with three thousand fathoms of tapered steel wire + (varying from one and three-quarters to one and a half inches in + circumference and weighing roughly a ton to the thousand fathoms in air); + this was kept on a large iron reel (A) mounted on standards and controlled + by a friction-brake. This reel was situated on the starboard side of the + main deck, the wire being wound on to it by means of a chain-drive from + the forward cargo-winch. + </p> + <p> + For heaving in, our steam-windlass was fitted with a specially constructed + drum (B), which absorbed the crushing strain and then allowed the slack + wire to be wound on the reel (A), which was driven as nearly as possible + at the same speed; the windlass usually heaving at the rate of four + hundred and fifty fathoms per hour. + </p> + <p> + A wooden derrick (D), provided with topping lift and guys, was mounted on + the foremast by means of a band and goose-neck. At the outer end of the + derrick, the dynamometer and a fourteen-inch block were attached. The + maximum strain which could be supported was ten tons. In paying out, the + wire was led from the head of the derrick to a snatch-block on the quarter + (E), constructed so as to admit of its disengagement from the wire when it + was necessary to heave in. This block kept the wire clear of the propeller + and allowed us to have the vessel moving slow or fast as required, while + the trawl was being paid out. The positions of the various parts of the + trawling gear are shown in the plan on the opposite page. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Plan illustrating the arrangements for deep-sea trawling on board the + 'Aurora'. + </p> + <p> + Before trawling in deep water the vessel was stopped and a sounding + obtained; then the derrick was hoisted, the wire rove through the various + blocks, the trawl shackled on, and the men distributed at their stations. + When all was ready, the engines were put at half-speed (three knots), a + course was given to the helmsman and the trawl lowered into the water. + When it was flowing nicely just astern, the order, "Slack away," was + given; the wire being paid out evenly by means of the friction-brakes. In + one thousand five hundred fathoms of water, after the two-thousand-fathom + mark had passed out, the order was given, "Hold on and make fast." Speed + was now reduced to one and a half knots and the wire watched until it gave + a decided indication of the trawl dragging over the bottom. The strain was + now taken by the windlass-barrel, controlled by a screw-brake, backed if + necessary by a number of turns round the forward bitts. A slow drag over + the bottom was generally continued for one hour. The engines were then + stopped, and the order came, "Stand by to heave away." This was quickly + followed by "Knock out," which meant the disengaging of the after-block + from the wire and allowed the vessel to swing round head-on to the wire. + "Vast heaving" indicated the appearance of the net at the surface, and, + when the mouth of the net was well above the bulwarks the derrick was + topped up vertically, the lower part of the net dragged inboard and the + cod-end untied, the catch being thus allowed to empty itself on deck. The + contents of the haul supplied the biologists with the work of sorting and + bottling for the next twelve hours or more. + </p> + <p> + The form of trawl used on board the 'Aurora' was known as a Monagasque + trawl, of a type employed by the Prince of Monaco. As will be seen from + the sketch, it is of simple construction and possesses the advantage of + having both sides similar so that it is immaterial which lands on the + bottom. + </p> + <p> + The winter cruise in the Sub-Antarctic began on May 18, 1912, after we had + refitted in Sydney and taken on board all the oceanographic apparatus, + during the previous month. Leaving Port Jackson, we proceeded to Port + Kembla, N.S.W., and took in four hundred and eleven tons of coal. + </p> + <p> + The following was the personnel of the ship's officers on this and the two + following cruises: Chief Officer, F. D. Fletcher; Chief Engineer, F. J. + Gillies; Second Officer, P. Gray; Third Officer, C. P. de la Motte. + </p> + <p> + During the first dredging cruise, Mr. E. R. Waite, from the Canterbury + Museum, Christchurch, was in charge of the biological work. + </p> + <p> + My plan was to go through Bass Strait and then to sail towards the Royal + Company Islands as given on the French chart, before heading for Macquarie + Island. From thence we should steam across to the Auckland Islands. At + both the latter places Mr. Waite would be able to secure specimens. It was + not expected that the weather would permit of much trawling, but we + anticipated some good soundings. As a matter of fact, sub-antarctic + weather in the winter may be predicted with some certainty: strong winds, + heavy seas, much fog and general gloom. + </p> + <p> + We had a fine run through Bass Strait with a light south-east breeze, + arriving off King's Island at noon on May 28. The trawling gear was got + ready for the following day, but the sea was too high and the ship + continued south towards the position of the Royal Company Islands. + </p> + <p> + On June 1 we were in latitude 53 degrees south, longitude 152 degrees + east, and had been cruising about fruitlessly in heavy weather for days + waiting for an opportunity to dredge. After being at sea for a whole + fortnight we had only three soundings to our credit, and it was, + therefore, resolved to make for Macquarie Island. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th we reached the island and anchored at North-East Bay in twelve + fathoms, about one mile from land. + </p> + <p> + After a stiff pull ashore, next day, we landed and found the party all + well. They had built a comfortable hut and were enjoying life as far as + possible, despite the constant gales and continuous days of fog. + </p> + <p> + We then climbed up the hill to the wireless station, where everything was + in splendid order. Two small huts had been erected, one for the engine and + the other for the receiving apparatus. Sandell and Sawyer, the two + operators, were to be congratulated on the efficient way the station had + been kept going under very considerable difficulty. In addition to the + routine work with Hobart and Wellington they had occasionally communicated + with stations over two thousand miles distant. + </p> + <p> + I was able to send the following message to Professor David: "'Aurora' + arrived Macquarie Island; all well, June 7; constant gales and high seas + have prevented dredging so far. Royal Company Islands not found in the + position indicated on the chart." + </p> + <p> + We were able to land some stores for the use of the land party under + Ainsworth. Meteorological, biological and geological work were all in + progress and the scientific records should be of great value. Up to the + date of our arrival, no wireless messages had been received from Adelie + Land. As Dr. Mawson was in ignorance of its exact location, the position + of the Western Base under Wild was given to Ainsworth to forward to Adelie + Land in case communication should be established. + </p> + <p> + After Mr. Waite had obtained several birds, it was decided to move down to + Lusitania Bay to secure some Royal penguins and a sea-elephant. Two days + later, the 'Aurora' anchored in the bay, three-quarters of a mile from the + beach, in sixteen fathoms; the weather was very misty. Mr. Waite and Mr. + Haines, the taxidermist, were rowed ashore. + </p> + <p> + The island, above a height of three hundred feet from sea-level, was + shrouded in mist throughout the day, and, before dark, all signs of the + land had disappeared. The mist did not clear until 6 P.M. on the 15th. + </p> + <p> + We stayed for a whole fortnight at Macquarie Island, during which time the + highest velocity of the wind recorded on shore was thirty-five miles per + hour, although, during the winter, gales are almost of daily occurrence. + On June 22, the date of departure, a course was set for the Auckland + Islands, which lie in the track of homeward-bound vessels from Australia + via Cape Horn. + </p> + <p> + The group was discovered in 1806 by Captain Bristow of the 'Ocean', owned + by Samuel Enderby. It comprises one main island and several smaller ones, + separated by narrow channels. There are two spacious harbours; a northern, + now called Port Ross, and a southern, Carnley Harbour. The islands are + situated about one hundred and eighty miles south of Stewart Island (New + Zealand). + </p> + <p> + After a run of three hundred and forty miles on a northeast course, we + entered Carnley Harbour and anchored off Flagstaff Point. A breeze blew + strong from the west-northwest. Next day, June 25, we stood up to Figure + of Eight Island and found good holding for the anchor in nine and a half + fathoms. + </p> + <p> + The eastern entrance to Carnley Harbour is formed by two bluff points, + about two miles apart; its upper extremity terminating in a lagoon. The + site of Musgrave's house ("Epigwaith") is on the east side of this lagoon. + Here he spent twenty months after the wreck of the 'Grafton'. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Auckland Island (from the Admiralty Chart) showing the track of the + 'Aurora' + </p> + <p> + We set off in the motor-launch on the 26th to visit Camp Cove, where we + found the two huts maintained by the New Zealand Government for the + benefit of castaways. In the larger hut there were potatoes, biscuits, + tinned meats and matches. The smaller hut was empty but on the outside + were carved many names of shipwrecked mariners. The 'Amakura' had visited + the depot in November 1911. The various depots established on the island + by the New Zealand Government are visited every six months. + </p> + <p> + While in Carnley Harbour we were able to make several hauls with the small + dredge. + </p> + <p> + After passing up the eastern coast of the main island we entered Port Ross + and anchored west of Shoe Island. On June 30 the depot on Erebus Cove was + visited, where three white sheds contain the usual necessaries for + unfortunate castaways. The New Zealand Government steamer, 'Hinemoa', + while on a scientific expedition to the Sub-Antarctic in 1907, rescued the + sixteen survivors of the barque 'Dundonald', two thousand two hundred and + three tons, which had been wrecked on Disappointment Island. The captain + and ten men had been drowned and the chief officer had died from the + effects of exposure and starvation. + </p> + <p> + On July 2 we went to Observation Point, finding there a flat stone + commemorating the visit of the German Scientific Expedition of 1874. + </p> + <p> + The biologist found various kinds of petrels on Shoe Island, where the + turf was riddled in all directions by their burrows. + </p> + <p> + At Rose Island, close by, there are some fine basaltic columns, eighty + feet high, weathered out into deep caverns along their base. + </p> + <p> + In Sandy Bay, Enderby Island, there was an extensive depot. Among the + stores I found a Venesta case marked s.y. 'Nimrod', which contained dried + vegetables and evidently formed part of the stores which were sold on the + return of the British Antarctic Expedition of 1907. + </p> + <p> + After leaving the Auckland Islands for New Zealand, we were fortunate in + having fairly good weather. Five soundings were taken, and, on July 9, the + trawl was put over in three hundred and forty-five fathoms. The net + unfortunately fouled on a rocky bottom and so we gained nothing but + experience in the operation. + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' arrived at Port Lyttleton on July 11 and we received a very + kind welcome from the people of Christchurch. Mr. J. J. Kinsey, well known + in connexion with various British Antarctic expeditions, gave us valuable + assistance during our stay. We were back again in Melbourne on the 17th of + the month. + </p> + <p> + While the first oceanographical cruise of the 'Aurora' did not prove very + fruitful in results, chiefly on account of the stormy weather, it provided + the necessary training for officers and men in the handling of the + deep-sea gear, and we were able to realize later how much we had learnt on + our first cruise. + </p> + <p> + The ship, after undergoing a thorough overhaul at the State dockyard at + Williamstown, Victoria, undertook a second deep-sea cruise. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Hobart on November 12, 1912, she laid her course to the southward + in order to obtain soundings for a complete section of the sea-floor, as + nearly as possible on the meridian of Hobart. Our time was limited to one + month, during which a visit to Macquarie Island for the purpose of landing + stores and mail had to be made. Professor T. Flynn of Hobart University + accompanied the vessel in charge of the biological work. + </p> + <p> + An interesting discovery was made two hundred miles south of Tasmania. + Here it was proved that a rocky ridge rose like a huge mountain from + depths of more than two thousand fathoms to within five hundred and forty + fathoms of the surface. A great number of soundings were taken in the + vicinity of this rise, subsequently named the Mill Rise, until a heavy + gale drove us far from its situation. + </p> + <p> + On November 21 we were not far from Macquarie Island and, at 7 P.M., + sounded in one thousand four hundred and fifty fathoms. As the weather was + remarkably fine for these latitudes we decided to lower the trawl. Before + dark it was being towed slowly towards the east with one thousand nine + hundred fathoms of wire out. + </p> + <p> + We spent an anxious night hoping that the weather would remain fine long + enough to permit us to get the gear on board again. We had been driving + before a light westerly wind, when the trawl caught on the bottom and + stopped the vessel. + </p> + <p> + A very heavy strain was imposed on the wire as the vessel rose in the + swell; the dynamometer registering up to seven tons. I decided to wait for + daylight before attempting to heave in the trawl. At 3 A.M. we cast the + wire off the after-block and started to heave away; it was two hours + before the trawl cleared the bottom and the strain was reduced. + </p> + <p> + At 8 A.M. the trawl was once more on board, the frames being bent and + twisted and the net badly torn. On sounding, the depth was found to be + only six hundred and thirty-six fathoms, so that we had evidently put over + the trawl on to the edge of a steep rise and then drifted across it. + </p> + <p> + In view of our position—only thirty miles from Macquarie Island—this + accident might have been expected. But opportunities of trawling had been + so few that risks had to be taken when the weather quieted down for a few + hours. Our only consolation on this occasion was that we recovered the + gear. + </p> + <p> + The following evening, at 7.30, the anchor was dropped in North-East Bay, + Macquarie Island, and we were immediately boarded by our land party who + were all well. They had become very clever boatmen during their stay, + using a small dinghy to make coastal journeys. + </p> + <p> + On November 24 we left the anchorage at 9 A.M. and spent the day in its + vicinity. More than one hundred soundings were taken, which Blake, the + geological surveyor, was to plot on the chart of the island which he had + almost completed. + </p> + <p> + Some idea of the steepness of the submarine mountain of which Macquarie + Island forms the crest may be gathered from a sounding, taken ten and a + half miles east of the island, which gave two thousand seven hundred and + forty-five fathoms and no bottom. In other words, if the sea were to dry + up, there would be a lofty mountain rising from the plain of the ocean's + bed to a height of nearly eighteen thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + A great deal of work still required to be done off Macquarie Island, but, + as the uneven and rocky nature of the bottom prevented dredging, I decided + to sail on the 25th, continuing the voyage towards the Auckland Islands. + </p> + <p> + Several people had expressed belief in a submarine ridge connecting + Macquarie Island with the Auckland group. Three soundings which we + obtained on this voyage did not support the suggestion, ranging as they + did from one thousand eight hundred and fifty-five to two thousand four + hundred and thirty fathoms, eighty-five miles south-west of the Auckland + group. We were the more glad to obtain these soundings, as, during the + winter cruise, in the same waters, the weather had forced us to abandon + the attempt. + </p> + <p> + On November 28 we took several soundings on the eastern side of the + Auckland Islands, but did not prolong our stay as we wished to investigate + the ridge south of Tasmania—the Mill Rise. The course was therefore + directed westward with a view to outlining the eastern edge of this + submarine elevation. + </p> + <p> + The first sounding to indicate that we were once more approaching the Mill + Rise was in one thousand and seventy-six fathoms. Continuing west we + secured the next record in one thousand three hundred fathoms, limiting + the southern extremity of the ridge which extends northward for nearly one + hundred miles. From this sounding the water shoaled quickly as we steered + north. Thus, on the same day, we were in eight hundred and thirty-five + fathoms at noon, in seven hundred and thirty-five fathoms at 3.40 P.M. and + in seven hundred and ten fathoms at 7.30 P.M. After the last sounding we + lowered the rock-gripper. On the first trial, however, it failed to shut + and, on the second, only a little fine sand was recovered. As it was + blowing hard most of the time, we were very fortunate in being able to do + this piece of work. + </p> + <p> + An inspection of the chart reveals the fact that the main direction of the + shallowest water is in a north-west and south-east direction, but the + number of soundings obtained was too small to give more than a general + outline. Later, we were able to add to these on the voyage southward to + relieve the Antarctic Bases. + </p> + <p> + The weather was so bad and the sea so heavy that we were unable to obtain + soundings on December 9, and, as dredging under such conditions was out of + the question, I decided to steer for the east coast of Tasmania, where + dredging might be possible under the lee of the land. The constant gales + were very disheartening, the last having continued for four days with only + short intervals of moderate weather. + </p> + <p> + On December 12 and 13, in calmer water, some thirty miles off the east + coast of Tasmania, trawlings were made successfully in one thousand three + hundred fathoms and seventy-five fathoms respectively. From the deeper + trawling were obtained a large octopus and several interesting fish. + </p> + <p> + Just before noon on December 14 we arrived in Hobart and immediately began + preparations for the voyage to the Antarctic. + </p> + <p> + On December 24, 1912, preparations for sailing were complete. For ten days + every one connected with the 'Aurora' had been working at high pressure, + and Christmas Day, our last day ashore, was to be celebrated as a + well-earned holiday. + </p> + <p> + There was on board a good supply of coal, five hundred and twenty-one + tons, and a very heavy mail of letters and packages for the members of the + Expedition who had been isolated in the far South for more than twelve + months. We were to take thirty-five sheep on board as well as twenty-one + dogs, presented by Captain Amundsen upon his return from his South Polar + expedition. Captain James Davis, of Hobart, of long whaling experience, + was to accompany us to give an expert opinion upon such whales as we might + meet. Mr. Van Waterschoot van der Gracht, who had had previous experience + in the Antarctic, joined as marine artist, and Mr. S. N. Jeffryes as + wireless operator. With C. C. Eitel, Secretary of the Expedition, the + whole party on board numbered twenty-eight. + </p> + <p> + A very pleasant Christmas was spent ashore. The ship's company of + twenty-three men met for dinner, and we did not forget to wish a "Merry + Christmas" to our leader and his twenty-six comrades who were holding + their celebration amid the icy solitudes of Antarctica. I was glad, on + this festive occasion, to be able to congratulate officers and men on + their willing and loyal service during the previous twelve months; every + one had done his best to advance the objects of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + The attractions of Hobart, at this season, are so numerous, and Tasmanian + hospitality so boundless, that it gives me great pleasure to place on + record that every man was at his post on the 'Aurora' at 10 A.M. on Boxing + Day. + </p> + <p> + As we drew away from the wharf amid the cheers of those who had come to + wish us God-speed, the weather was perfect and the scene on the Derwent + bright and cheering. Captain James Davis acted as pilot. + </p> + <p> + At 11.30 A.M. we had embarked the twenty-one dogs, which were brought off + from the Quarantine Station, and were steaming down Storm Bay. Outside + there was a heavy swell, and the wind was freshening from the west. The + course was laid south 50 degrees west, true. + </p> + <p> + For the next two days there was a westerly gale with a very high sea, and + the dogs and sheep had a bad time, as a good deal of water came aboard. + Two of the sheep had to be killed. By the afternoon of the 29th it had + moderated, and a sounding was secured. + </p> + <p> + This storm was followed by another from the west-northwest. The 'Aurora' + weathered it splendidly, although one sea came over everything and flooded + the cabins, while part of the rail of the forecastle head was carried away + on the morning of the 31st. At this time we were in the vicinity of the + reputed position of the Royal Company Islands. A sounding was taken with + great difficulty, finding two thousand and twenty fathoms and a mud + bottom. + </p> + <p> + January 4, 1918, was a fine day, with a fresh westerly breeze and a high + sea. Occasionally there were snow squalls. At night the wireless operator + was able to hear H.M.S. 'Drake' at Hobart, and also the station at + Macquarie Island; the ship having been fitted to receive wireless signals + before sailing. + </p> + <p> + Next day the sun was bright and there was only a moderate westerly swell. + Large bunches of kelp were frequently seen drifting on the surface. "Blue + Billys"** flew in great numbers about the ship. Two soundings were + obtained in one thousand nine hundred fathoms. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Prion Banksii. +</pre> + <p> + On the 8th a heavy swell came from the south-east. During the morning a + sounding realized two thousand two hundred and seventy fathoms and the + sample of mud contained a small, black manganese nodule. At 8 P.M. a + floating cask was sighted and taken aboard after much difficulty. It + turned out to be a ship's oil cask, empty, giving no clue from whence it + came. + </p> + <p> + The first ice was observed about 6 P.M. on the 10th. The water was still + deep—more than two thousand fathoms. + </p> + <p> + By noon on January 11 loose pack came into view, with a strong blink of + heavier pack to the south. The course was changed to south-west. At 7 P.M. + the ship was steaming west in clear water, a few bergs being in sight and + a marked ice-blink to the south. Several whales appeared which Captain + James Davis reported were "blue whales" (finners or rorquals). + </p> + <p> + After we had been steering westward until almost midnight, the course was + altered to south-west in the hope of encountering the shelf-ice barrier + (met in 1912) well to the east of the Main Base station. On the 12th we + sailed over the position of the ice-tongue in 1912 without seeing a trace + of it, coming up with heavy broken floe at 10 A.M. + </p> + <p> + For four hours the 'Aurora' pushed through massive floes and "bergy bits," + issuing into open water with the blink of ice-covered land to the south. + At nine o'clock Adelie Land was plainly visible, and a course was set for + the Main Base. In squally weather we reached the Mackellar Islets at + midnight, and by 2 A.M. on the 13th dropped anchor in Commonwealth Bay + under the ice-cliffs in twenty fathoms. + </p> + <p> + At 6 A.M. Fletcher, the chief officer, reported that a heavy gust of wind + had struck the ship and caused the chain to carry away the lashing of the + heavy relieving-tackle. The chain then ran over the windlass, and, before + anything could be done, the pointer to which the end of the chain was + attached had been torn from the bolts, and our best ground-tackle was lost + overboard. It was an exasperating accident. + </p> + <p> + At seven o'clock the port anchor was dropped in ten fathoms, about eight + hundred yards west of the first anchorage, with ninety fathoms of chain. + The wind shifted suddenly to the north, and the 'Aurora' swung inshore + until her stern was within one hundred yards of the cliffs; but the depth + at this distance proved to be seventeen fathoms. After a few northerly + puffs, the wind shifted to the south-east and then died away. + </p> + <p> + At 2.30 P.M. the launch was hoisted over and the mail was taken ashore, + with sundry specimens of Australian fruit as "refreshment" for the + shore-party. The boat harbour was reached before any one ashore had seen + the 'Aurora'. At the landing-place we were greeted most warmly by nine + wild-looking men; some with beards bleached by the weather. They all + looked healthy and in very fair condition, after the severe winter, as + they danced about in joyous excitement. + </p> + <p> + We learned that five sledging parties had left the Hut: Bage, Webb and + Hurley had returned from the south, Stillwell, Close and Laseron from the + east, and the others were still out. In Dr. Mawson's instructions, all + parties were to be back at the Hut by January 15, 1913. + </p> + <p> + The launch made some trips to and from the ship with specimens during the + afternoon. I returned on board and had a look at the cable. The weather + was fine, but changes were apt to occur without much warning. At midnight + it was blowing a gale from the south-east, and the chain was holding well. + The launch was hoisted up in the davits and communication with the shore + was suspended until 8 A.M. on January 15. + </p> + <p> + The lull was of two hours' duration, during which Murphy came aboard and + furnished me with some particulars about the sledging parties still away. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Mawson, with Ninnis and Mertz, had gone to the south-east. They were + well provisioned and had taken eighteen dogs for transport purposes. + Bickerton, Hodgeman and Whetter had been out forty-three days to the west + and had food for forty days only. Madigan, McLean and Correll had been + away for seventy days in an easterly direction. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Mawson had left a letter for me with instructions to take charge if he + failed to return to time, that is not later than January 15, 1913. + </p> + <p> + On January 16 a party was observed from the ship coming in over the slope. + There was much speculation as to its personnel since, at a distance, the + three figures could not be recognized. The launch took us ashore and we + greeted Madigan, McLean and Correll who had returned from a very + successful expedition along the eastern coast over sea-ice. + </p> + <p> + Madigan and Bage came on board during the forenoon of the 17th and we had + a long consultation about the position of affairs owing to the non-return + of two parties. It was decided to re-erect the wireless mast and stay it + well while the ship was waiting, so that, in case of any party being left + at the Main Base, the wireless station would be in working order.** + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** It should be borne in mind that during the summer months (November, +December, January and part of February) wireless communication with the +outside world is impossible owing to continuous daylight reducing the +effective range. In summer the range was only a few hundred miles, and +the effective working distance for all times of the day probably not +above one hundred miles. +</pre> + <p> + At one o'clock on the morning of January 18, de la Motte, the officer on + watch, reported that a party could be seen descending the glacier. This + proved to be Bickerton, Hodgeman and Whetter returning from their trip + along the west coast. Thus Dr. Mawson's party was the only one which had + not yet returned. + </p> + <p> + All day work on the wireless mast went along very satisfactorily, while + Captain James Davis and Chief Officer Fletcher spent their time in the + launch dragging for the cable lost on the morning of our arrival. The + launch returned at 10.30 P.M. and Captain Davis reported that the grapnel + had been buoyed until operations could be resumed. + </p> + <p> + On January 19 we tried to recover the chain, and to this end the 'Aurora' + was taken over to the position where the grapnels had been buoyed and was + anchored. All efforts to secure the chain were unsuccessful. At 7 P.M. we + decided to return to our former position, having a hard job to raise the + anchor, which appeared to have dragged under a big rock. Finally it broke + away and came up in a mass of kelp, and with the stock "adrift." The + latter was secured and we steamed back, "letting go" in eleven fathoms + with ninety fathoms of chain. + </p> + <p> + When Dr. Mawson's party was a week overdue, I considered that the time had + arrived to issue a provisional notice to the members of the Expedition at + Commonwealth Bay concerning the establishment of a relief party to operate + from the Main Base. + </p> + <p> + A party of four left the Hut on the 20th, keeping a sharp look-out to the + south-east for any signs of the missing party. They travelled as far as + the air-tractor sledge which had been abandoned ten miles to the south, + bringing it back to the Hut. + </p> + <p> + I decided to remain at Commonwealth Bay until January 30. If the leader's + party had not returned by that day, a search party was to proceed eastward + while the 'Aurora' sailed for Wild's Base. From the reports of the gales + which prevailed during the month of March in 1912, and considering the + short daylight there was at that time, I felt that it would be risking the + lives of all on board to return to the Main Base after relieving Wild's + party. I resolved, therefore, to wait <i>as long as possible</i>. As a + result of a consultation with Madigan and Bage, I had a provisional notice + drafted, to be posted up in the Hut on January 22. + </p> + <p> + This notice was to the effect that the non-arrival of the leader's party + rendered it necessary to prepare for the establishment of a relief + expedition at Winter Quarters and appointed Bage, Bickerton, Hodgeman, + Jeffryes and McLean as members, under the command of Madigan; to remain in + Antarctica for another year if necessary. + </p> + <p> + On the same evening I went ashore to inspect the wireless mast, which was + practically complete. The work had been done thoroughly and, provided the + mast itself did not buckle, the stays were likely to hold. Hannam, + Bickerton and Jeffryes were busy placing the engine and instruments in + position. + </p> + <p> + I then went up the slope for about a mile. The Winter Quarters looked like + a heap of stones; boundless ice rose up to the southern skyline; the dark + water to the north was broken by an occasional berg or the ice-covered + islands. This wonderful region of ice and sea looks beautiful on a fine + day. But what a terrible, vast solitude, constantly swept by icy winds and + drift, stretches away to the south! A party will go out to-morrow to visit + the depot at the top of the slope. This is the seventh day we have been + waiting and hoping to welcome the absentees! + </p> + <p> + On the 23rd the breeze was very strong in the forenoon, but the wind + moderated about 4 P.M., when the launch was able to leave for the shore. + We could see a search party (Hodgeman, Stillwell, and Correll) marching + against a strong south-east wind on their way to examine the depot at + Aladdin's Cave and its vicinity. + </p> + <p> + Though there was a moderate south-easter blowing, communication with the + land went on during the day. I went ashore early, but the search party did + not return until noon. They had remained at Aladdin's Cave overnight and + marched farther south next morning, approaching a line of dense drift, + without seeing anything. + </p> + <p> + It was arranged that another party of three men should start next morning + (January 25) and, going in a southeasterly direction, make a search for + five days, laying a depot at their farthest point. Hodgeman, Hurley and + McLean made preparations to set out. I left instructions that a flag + should be flown on the wireless mast if Dr. Mawson returned. + </p> + <p> + I now went through the supplies of provisions and coal which were to be + landed for the use of the Relief Party. I intended to try and have + everything on shore by January 29, taking advantage of any short interval + of fair weather to send a boatload to the landing-place. + </p> + <p> + On the 25th there was a hard south-east gale blowing until the afternoon, + when it moderated sufficiently to send off the launch with thirteen bags + of coal, Gillies being in charge. The boat harbour was reached in safety, + the wind freshening to a gale before 6 P.M. + </p> + <p> + Terrific gusts followed in rapid succession and, without warning, the + cable parted sixty fathoms from the anchor at 9 P.M. Having cleared the + reefs to leeward, we managed to get in the rest of the chain and then + stood along the coast to the north-west. By keeping about three miles from + the shore, we seemed to be beyond the reach of the more violent gusts, but + a short sea holding the ship broadside to the wind during the squalls, + rendered it difficult to maintain a fixed course. + </p> + <p> + With reefs and bergs around, the increasing darkness about midnight made + our position unpleasant. The engines had to be stopped and the ship + allowed to drift with the wind, owing to a bearing becoming hot, but in a + quarter of an hour they were moving once more. + </p> + <p> + Early on January 26 the 'Aurora' was about half-way between Winter + Quarters and the western point of Commonwealth Bay, when the wind suddenly + ceased, and then came away light from the north-west. We could see that a + south-east gale was still raging close inshore. Over the sea, towards the + north, dark clouds were scudding with great rapidity along the horizon: + the scene of a violent disturbance. + </p> + <p> + We returned towards our late anchorage. On reaching it, the south-east + wind had moderated considerably, and we let go our spare anchor and what + had been saved of the chain. + </p> + <p> + To the north, violent gusts appeared to be travelling in various + directions, but, to our astonishment, these gusts, after approaching our + position at a great rate, appeared to curve upwards; the water close to + the ship was disturbed, and nothing else. This curious phenomenon lasted + for about an hour and then the wind came with a rush from the south-east, + testing the anchor-chain in the more furious squalls. + </p> + <p> + The gale was in its third day on the 27th, and there was a "hurricane sky" + during the morning. The wind would die away, only to blow more fiercely + than before. The suddenness with which the changes occurred may be + gathered from the following extracts from my journal: + </p> + <p> + "January 27. 6 A.M. A whole gale blowing from the south-east. + </p> + <p> + "9 A.M. Light airs from north to east. Launch taking coal ashore. + </p> + <p> + "11 A.M. Last cargo of coal had just left ship when the wind freshened + from the south-east. The launch had just got inside the boat harbour when + a terrific gust struck the vessel and our chain parted. We were blown out + to sea while heaving in thirty fathoms of chain which remained. + </p> + <p> + "4 P.M. We have been steaming backwards and forwards until the wind died + away. The launch has just come off and taken another load of stores to the + boat harbour. + </p> + <p> + "7 P.M. The weather is moderating with rising barometer. Nearly everything + required by the Relief Party is now ashore. Two or three trips will take + the remainder. + </p> + <p> + "We shall steam about for a few hours, and make the anchorage early + to-morrow morning." + </p> + <p> + Next morning a kedge-anchor (about five hundred-weights) was lowered with + the remainder of the chain. For a time this held the ship, but a gust of + wind from the southeast caused it to drag. It was, therefore, hauled up + and, on coming to the surface, was seen to have lost a fluke. + </p> + <p> + All equipment, coal and food were now on shore for the use of the Relief + Party. I had given them everything that could be spared from the + provisions set apart for the use of the ship's company. Next day I + purposed to cruise along the coast to the east, if the weather were clear. + </p> + <p> + January 29 was fine, so we steamed off at 6.30 A.M. As no flag was seen on + the wireless mast, we knew that Dr. Mawson had not returned. A course was + kept two or three miles from the ice-cliffs beyond the fringe of rocky + islets. + </p> + <p> + At 4 A.M. on the 30th we were alongside the Mertz Glacier and reached the + head of the bay at the confluence of glacier with land-ice. Mount + Murchison was only dimly visible, but the weather was clear along the + glacier-tongue. Signals were fired and a big kite flown at a height of + about five hundred feet to attract attention on shore in case the missing + party were near. + </p> + <p> + "1.30 P.M. We are now about half a mile from the head of the inlet. From + the appearance of the country (heavily crevassed) approach to the sea by a + sledging-party would be extremely difficult. There is no floe-ice at the + foot of the cliff. + </p> + <p> + "10.30 P.M. We are approaching the end of the glacier-tongue around which + there is a collection of pack. There is some drift ahead and it is + difficult to see far. We have passed the eastern limit of coast to be + searched. + </p> + <p> + "10.35 P.M. The glacier-tongue is trending to the east and a line of heavy + pack extends to the north, with many large bergs. No sign of flag or + signal on the end of the barrier. + </p> + <p> + "January 31. We left the glacier-tongue at 8 A.M. and steered back to + Winter Quarters. + </p> + <p> + "At noon we could see Madigan Nunatak, a rocky patch, high up on the + slope. + </p> + <p> + "4.15 P.M. Sighted the large grounded berg, fifteen miles from the Main + Base. + </p> + <p> + "9 P.M. Off Main Base. There is no flag to be seen on the wireless mast! + </p> + <p> + "Dr. Mawson's party is now sixteen days overdue; there must be something + seriously amiss. But from our examination of the line of coast as far as + 64 degrees 45' south, 146 degrees 19' east, there does not appear to be + any probability of finding traces along the shore line at the base of + vertical ice-cliffs." + </p> + <p> + No communication with the shore was possible until the wind, which had + again risen, had moderated. We could just stand off and on until a + favourable opportunity occurred. Once the returning ten members of the + Expedition were embarked it was imperative to hasten towards Wild's Base. + </p> + <p> + A week's gale in Commonwealth Bay! The seven days which followed I do not + think any of us will forget. From February 1 to 7 it blew a continuous + heavy gale, interrupted only when the wind increased to a full hurricane + ** (eighty miles an hour). + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** * The maximum wind-velocity recorded at this time by the anemometer +on shore was approximately eighty miles an hour. +</pre> + <p> + We endeavoured to maintain a position under the cliffs where the sea had + not room to become heavy. This entailed a constant struggle, as, with a + full head of steam during the squalls, the vessel drove steadily seaward + to where the rising waves broke on board and rendered steering more + perplexing. Then, when it had moderated to a mere "howl," we would crawl + back, only to be driven out again by the next squall. The blinding spray + which was swept out in front of the squalls froze solidly on board and + lent additional difficulty to the operation of "wearing ship." + </p> + <p> + It was on this occasion that we realized what a fine old vessel the + 'Aurora' was, and, as we slowly moved back to shelter, could appreciate + how efficiently our engine-room staff under Gillies were carrying out + their duties. The ordinary steaming speed was six knots, yet for the whole + of this week, without a hitch, the ship was being driven at an equivalent + of ten knots. The fact of having this reserve power undoubtedly saved us + from disaster. + </p> + <p> + A typical entry from my diary reads: + </p> + <p> + "February 6. Just as the sun was showing over the ice-slopes this morning + (4 A.M.) the wind became very violent with the most terrific squalls I + have ever experienced. Vessel absolutely unmanageable, driving out to sea. + I was expecting the masts to go overboard every minute. This was the + worst, I think, lasting about two hours. At 6 A.M., still blowing very + hard but squalls less violent, gradually made shelter during the + morning...." + </p> + <p> + On February 8 the weather improved after 1 A.M. The gusts were less + violent and the lulls were of longer duration. At 9 A.M. there was only a + gentle breeze. We steamed in towards the boat harbour and signalled for + the launch to come off with the ten members of the shore-party. The latter + had been instructed to remain at the Hut until the vessel was ready to + sail. Here, while the gale had been in full career, they had helped to + secure enough seal and penguin-meat to keep the Relief Party and their + dogs for another year. + </p> + <p> + The good-byes were brief while the launch discharged the men and their + belongings. Instructions were handed over to Madigan directing him to + follow the course believed to have been taken by Dr. Mawson and to make an + exhaustive search, commencing as soon as the 'Aurora' left Commonwealth + Bay. Madigan gave me a letter containing a report of the work done by the + party which had left on the 25th. + </p> + <p> + It appears that they had been confined in Aladdin's Cave for twenty-four + hours by dense drift and then, in moderate drift, made four miles to the + south-east. Here they camped and were not able to move for thirty-six + hours in a high wind with thick snow. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th the drift decreased in amount and, though it was only possible + to see a few hundred yards and crevasses were frequent, they kept a course + of east 30 degrees south for six miles. A snow-mound was built and on top + of it were placed provisions and a note giving the bearing and distance + from Aladdin's Cave. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon the wind subsided and it became clear. Eight miles on the + same course brought them to their farthest camp, twenty-three miles from + the Hut. A mound of eleven feet was erected here, provisions and a note + being left and some black bunting wound among the snow-blocks. The depot + was on a ridge and, with glasses, several miles could be swept to the + south-east. + </p> + <p> + The party consisted of McLean, Hodgeman and Hurley. + </p> + <p> + De la Motte and Hannam took the Relief Party ashore in the launch and, as + soon as they had returned—at 11.30 A.M.—we steamed out of the + bay. The weather had calmed and there were light airs and a smooth sea. + </p> + <p> + The members of the Relief Party were as follows: C. T. Madigan (leader), + R. Bage, F. H. Bickerton, A. J. Hodgeman, Dr. A. L. McLean and S. N. + Jeffryes (wireless operator). The remaining ten members of the Main Base + Party returned to Australia: J. H. Close, P. E. Correll, W. H. Hannam, J. + G. Hunter, J. F. Hurley, C. F. Laseron, H. D. Murphy, F. L. Stillwell, E. + N. Webb and Dr. L. A. Whetter. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the afternoon we steered north-west and at 8.30 P.M. were + approaching heavy pack. Just then Hannam received a wireless message from + the Main Base informing us that Dr. Mawson had reached the Hut alone, his + two comrades having perished, and instructing me to return at once and + pick up all hands. We turned round and steered back immediately. + </p> + <p> + At 8 A.M. on February 9 the ship entered Commonwealth Bay steaming against + a strong southerly breeze with some snow. We were right up near the + anchorage about noon and the Pilot Jack could be seen flying from the + wireless mast. Instructions were signalled for, but our efforts were + unobserved. We then steamed to and fro across the bay. At 6 P.M. it was + blowing a hard gale and showed signs of becoming worse. + </p> + <p> + At 6 P.M. the wind was growing in strength and the barometer was falling. + Not having received any reply to my signal for instructions, I felt it was + necessary to decide whether I was justified in remaining any longer. + </p> + <p> + After considering the position in all its bearings I decided to sail + westward without further delay and for the following reasons: + </p> + <p> + 1. Dr. Mawson and his companions were in safety, comfortably housed and + fully equipped for another winter. + </p> + <p> + 2. Any further delay was seriously endangering our chance of being able to + relieve Wild's party that year. The navigation of the fifteen hundred + miles to the Shackleton Ice-Shelf was becoming, daily, more dangerous on + account of the shortness of daylight and the conditions of the ice. + </p> + <p> + 3. The only vessel which had wintered in the vicinity of the Western Base + (the 'Gauss') had been frozen in as early in the season as February 22, + spending more than twelve months in the ice. The 'Aurora' was not + provisioned for a winter in the ice. + </p> + <p> + 4. It had been ascertained from the records at the Main Base that gales + were often protracted at the close of the short summer season. We had just + experienced one such gale, lasting seven days. + </p> + <p> + 5. As a seaman, I had realized the difficulties encountered in approaching + and getting away from the Western Base in 1912. It was then three weeks + later in the year. + </p> + <p> + I felt convinced that in leaving the Main Base, without further delay, I + was acting as Dr. Mawson would have wished, if I had been able to acquaint + him with the position of the Western Party. + </p> + <p> + At 6.30 P.M. we steamed out of the bay, the wind moderating as the ship + got well out to sea. At midnight there was a moderate breeze from the + south, with some snow. + </p> + <p> + On February 10 heavy pack was met, about fifty miles north of Commonwealth + Bay. After coasting along its margin for a while, we pushed among the + floes and, after three hours, reached a patch of fairly open water about 1 + P.M. + </p> + <p> + One hour later a large ice-formation was sighted, which tallied with that + met on January 3 of the previous year (1912) and which, on this occasion, + was no longer in its original position. We came to the conclusion that the + whole must have drifted about fifty miles to the north-west during the + intervening year. The face of this huge berg, along which the 'Aurora' + coasted, was about forty miles in length. + </p> + <p> + Hannam heard fragments of a message from Dr. Mawson during the evening. + The words, "crevasse," "Ninnis," "Mertz," "broken" and "cable" were picked + up. + </p> + <p> + Good progress was made on the 11th against a high westerly sea. The sun + set in a clear sky and the barometer was slowly rising. Our position was + evidently north of the pack and, if unimpeded by ice, there was a chance + of the ship arriving at her destination in time. + </p> + <p> + Poor headway was made for nearly three days against an adverse wind and + sea. Then, late on the 14th, a breeze sprang up from the east-south-east + and, under all sail, the 'Aurora' made seven knots. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we were driving along before an easterly gale in thick snow, + and at noon the day's run was one hundred and eighty miles. + </p> + <p> + The journal describes the following week: + </p> + <p> + "February 16. The weather cleared up this morning and the sun came out, + enabling us to fix our position. + </p> + <p> + "We are doing about eight knots under topsails and foresail. The sky + looked threatening this evening but improved considerably before midnight. + </p> + <p> + "February 17. There were frequent snow squalls today, making it difficult + to see. Only a few scattered pieces of ice were about. + </p> + <p> + "February 18. Bright, clear weather to-day enabled us to get good + observations. There are a great many 'blue whales' round the ship, and the + many bergs in sight are suggestive of heavy pack to the south. A great + many petrels and Cape pigeons have been seen. + </p> + <p> + "February 19. The ship was brought up this morning at 8.45 by a line of + heavy pack extending across the course. The weather was misty, but cleared + up before noon. We have been obliged to steer a northerly course along the + edge of the pack. + </p> + <p> + "The margin of this pack is some sixty miles farther north than that which + we followed in 1912. + </p> + <p> + "At midnight we were steering north-north-west; many bergs in sight and a + line of pack to port. + </p> + <p> + "February 20. At daylight we were able to steer southwest, being at noon + about twenty miles north of Termination Ice-Tongue. Pushing through the + looser edge of pack for a couple of hours we saw the loom of the + ice-tongue to the southward. The pack becoming closer, we turned back to + the north in order to try and push through farther west, where the sky + looked more promising. + </p> + <p> + "At dark we were in a patch of clear water, with ice all around. It began + to snow and, as the wind remained a light easterly, the ship was allowed + to drift until daylight. + </p> + <p> + "February 21. The morning was very foggy up till 11 A.M. We steered west + until noon and then entered the pack; there was a promising sky towards + the south. Fair progress was made through the ice, which became looser as + we advanced to the south. At 8 P.M. we passed through leads by moonlight, + having a favourable run throughout the night. + </p> + <p> + "February 22. At 4 A.M. the wind freshened from the south-east with some + snow; the floes were getting heavier and the advent of a blizzard was not + hailed with joy. About noon the ship approached open water and the snow + ceased. + </p> + <p> + "We were now on the confines of the sea of bergs where navigation had + proved so dangerous in 1912. + </p> + <p> + "At 8 P.M. the driving snow and growing darkness made it impossible to see + any distance ahead. The next seven hours were the most anxious I have ever + spent at sea. Although the wind blew hard from the south-east, we passed + through the sea of bergs without mishap, guided and protected by a Higher + Power. + </p> + <p> + "February 23. At 4 A.M. the loom of an ice-tongue was sighted and we were + soon standing in to follow this feature until we reached the Shackleton + Shelf. + </p> + <p> + "At 8 A.M. we found that we were some miles south of our reckoning. + </p> + <p> + "At 11 A.M. we sighted a depot-flag on the slope. Soon after the ship was + up to the fast floe at the head of the bay, the ice being nearly a mile + farther north than on the previous year. In fact, the ice-conditions as a + whole had changed considerably. + </p> + <p> + "At noon we reached the Base and found the party all well." + </p> + <p> + Wild and his comrades were as glad to see the 'Aurora' as we were to see + them. They had commenced to lay in a stock of seal-meat fearing that they + might have to pass another winter on the glacier. + </p> + <p> + All the afternoon every one was busy getting baggage on board and watering + ship. The weather was good and I had intended to sail on the same evening + by moonlight, following the glacier-tongue northward in clear water for + sixty miles. + </p> + <p> + As we turned northward, "all well" on board, I felt truly thankful that + Wild's party had been relieved and anxiety on their account was now at an + end. The party included F. Wild (leader), G. Dovers, C. T. Harrisson, C. + A. Hoadley, Dr. S. E. Jones, A. L. Kennedy, M. H. Moyes and A. D. Watson. + </p> + <p> + Early on the 24th there was a fresh easterly breeze, while the ship + steamed among fields of bergs, for the most part of glacier-ice. It is + marvellous how a vessel can pass through such an accumulation in the dark + and come off with only a few bumps! + </p> + <p> + Pack consisting of heavy broken floe-ice was entered at four o'clock on + the same day, and at 8 A.M. on the 25th we were clear of it, steering once + more among bergs, many of which were earth-stained. The day was remarkably + fine with light winds and a smooth sea. + </p> + <p> + After we had passed through three hundred miles of berg-strewn ocean, + large masses of ice, water-worn in most instances, were still numerous, + and on February 27, though our position was north of the 80th parallel, + they were just beginning to diminish in numbers. At noon on that day a + sounding was made in two thousand two hundred and thirty fathoms. + </p> + <p> + Any hope we may have had of steaming to the east with the object of + attempting to relieve the seven men at Adelie Land had to be definitely + abandoned on account of the small supply of coal which remained. + </p> + <p> + There was now a clear run of two thousand miles through the zone of + westerly gales and high seas, and on March 14 we reached Port Esperance. + Mr. Eitel, Secretary of the Expedition, landed here and caught the steamer + Dover to Hobart. We heard of the disaster to Captain Scott and it was + learned that wireless messages had been received from Dr. Mawson, which + had been forwarded on to Australia through the Macquarie Island party. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX THE WESTERN BASE—ESTABLISHMENT AND EARLY ADVENTURES + </h2> + <h3> + by F. Wild + </h3> + <p> + At 7 A.M. on February 21, 1912, the 'Aurora' steamed away to the north + leaving us on the Shackleton Ice-Shelf, while cheers and hearty good + wishes were exchanged with the ship's company. On the sea-ice, that day, + there stood with me my comrades—the Western Party; G. Dovers, C. T. + Harrisson, C. A. Hoadley, S. E. Jones, A. L. Kennedy, M. H. Moyes and A. + D. Watson. + </p> + <p> + We proceeded to the top of the cliff, where the remainder of the stores + and gear were hauled up. Tents were then erected and the work of + hut-building at once commenced. The site selected for our home was six + hundred and forty yards inland from the spot where the stores were landed, + and, as the edge of the glacier was very badly broken, I was anxious to + get a supply of food, clothing and fuel moved back from the edge to safety + as soon as possible. + </p> + <p> + Of the twenty-eight Greenland dogs that had reached Antarctica in the + 'Aurora', nineteen were landed in Adelie Land and nine with us. So far, + none of these had been broken in for sledging, and all were in poor + condition. Their quarters on the ship had been very cramped, and many + times they had been thoroughly soaked in salt water, besides enduring + several blizzards in Antarctic waters. + </p> + <p> + Harrisson, Hoadley, Kennedy and Jones "turned the first sod" in the + foundations of the hut, while Dovers, Moyes, Watson and I sledged along + supplies of timber and stores. Inward from the brink of the precipice, + which was one hundred feet in height, the surface was fairly good for + sledges, but, owing to crevasses and pressure-ridges, the course was + devious and mostly uphill. + </p> + <p> + Until the building was completed, the day's work commenced at 6 A.M., and, + with only half an hour for a midday meal, continued until 7 P.M. + Fortunately, the weather was propitious during the seven days when the + carpenters and joiners ruled the situation; the temperature ranging from + -12 degrees F. to 25 degrees F., while a moderate blizzard interrupted one + day. The chief trouble was that the blizzard deposited six feet of snow + around the stack of stores and coal at the landing-place, thereby adding + considerably to our labour. As evidence of the force of the wind, the floe + was broken and driven out past the foot of the "flying-fox," tearing away + the lower anchor and breaking the sheer-legs on the glacier. + </p> + <p> + An average day's work on the stores consisted in bringing thirteen loads + over a total distance of nine and a half miles. First of all, the cases + had to be dug out of the snow-drifts, and loading and unloading the + sledges was scarcely less arduous. + </p> + <p> + On February 27, while working on the roof, Harrisson made an addition to + our geographical knowledge. Well to the north of the mainland, and bearing + a little north of east, he could trace the outline of land. Subsequently + this was proved to be an island, thirty-two miles distant, and seventeen + miles north of the mainland. It was twenty miles long and fifteen miles + wide, being entirely ice-covered. Later on, it was charted as Masson + Island. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th, the hut was fit for habitation, the stove was installed, and + meals were cooked and eaten in moderate comfort. The interior of the house + was twenty feet square, but its area was reduced by a lobby entrance, + three feet by five feet, a dark-room three feet by six feet situated on + one side, and my cabin six feet six inches square in one corner. The + others slept in seven bunks which were ranged at intervals round the + walls. Of the remaining space, a large portion was commodiously occupied + by the stove and table. + </p> + <p> + On three sides, the roof projected five feet beyond the walls and formed a + veranda which was boarded up, making an excellent store-room and + work-room. This was a splendid idea of Dr. Mawson's, enabling us to work + during the severest storms when there was no room in the hut, and + incidentally supplying extra insulation and rendering the inside much + warmer. The main walls and roof were double and covered with weather-proof + felt. Daylight was admitted through four plate-glass skylights in the + roof. + </p> + <p> + A blizzard effectually prevented outdoor work on February 29, and all + hands were employed in the hut, lining the roof and walls and fixing + shelves for cooking and other utensils. + </p> + <p> + An attack was made on the transport of stores next day. As a result of + twelve hours' work, five and a half tons of coal were dragged up and + stowed under the veranda. It was Hoadley's birthday, and the cook made a + special feature of the dinner. With extra dainties like figs, cake and a + bottle of wine, we felt that the occasion was fitly celebrated. On March + 2, more stores were amassed round the house; Hoadley, Harrisson and I + doing odd jobs inside, opening cans, sorting out stores, fitting bunks, + shelves and the acetylene gas plant. + </p> + <p> + While undoing some packages of small boards, Hoadley found that a space + had been arranged in the centre of one of the bundles, and a box of cigars + inserted by some of the men originally employed upon the construction of + the hut in Melbourne. Enclosed was a letter of hearty good wishes. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon, Dovers and Kennedy lowered a small sledge down to + the floe and brought up a seal and three Adelie penguins. These served for + a while as fresh food for ourselves and the dogs. + </p> + <p> + Sunday March 3 was the finest day we had up till then experienced, and, + since the work was now sufficiently advanced to make us comparatively + comfortable and safe, I determined to make a proper Sunday of it. All + hands were called at 8.30 A.M. instead of 6 A.M. After breakfast a few + necessary jobs were done and at noon a short service was held. When lunch + was over, the skis were unpacked, and all went for a run to the east in + the direction of Masson Island. + </p> + <p> + The glacier's surface was excellent for travelling, but I soon found that + it would be dangerous to walk about alone without skis, as there were a + number of crevasses near the hut, some of considerable size; I opened one + twenty-five feet wide. They were all well bridged and would support a man + on skis quite easily. + </p> + <p> + A heavy gale, with falling snow and blinding drift, came on early the next + day and continued for forty-eight hours; our worst blizzard up to that + time. The temperature, below zero before the storm, rose with the wind to + 30 degrees F. Inside, all were employed preparing for a sledging trip I + intended to make to the mainland before the winter set in. We were greatly + handicapped by the want of a sewing machine.** When unpacked, the one + which had been brought was found to be without shuttles, spools and + needles. Large canvas bags, made to contain two weeks' provisions for a + sledging unit of three men, were in the equipment, but the smaller bags of + calico for the different articles of food had to be sewn by hand. Several + hundred of these were required, and altogether the time consumed in making + them was considerable. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** By accident the small sewing machine belonging to Wild's party +was landed at the Main Base—ED. +</pre> + <p> + Emerging on the morning of the 6th. after the blizzard had blown itself + out, we found that snow-drifts to a depth of twelve feet had collected + around the hut. For entrance and exit, a shaft had to be dug and a ladder + made. The stores, stacked in heaps close by, were completely covered, and + another blizzard swooping down on the 7th made things still worse. This + "blow," persisting till the morning of the 9th, was very heavy, the wind + frequently attaining velocities judged to reach ninety miles per hour, + accompanied by drift so thick that it was impossible to go outside for + anything. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the erection of the wireless masts, everything was now ready for + the sledging journey. On the day when the wind abated, a party set to work + digging holes for the masts and stay-posts. The former were to be + fifty-two feet high, four and a half feet being buried in the ice. + Unfortunately, a strong breeze with thick drift sprang up just as hoisting + operations had started, and in a few minutes the holes were filled up and + the workers had to run for shelter. Meanwhile, four men had succeeded in + rescuing all the buried stores, some being stowed alongside the hut, and + the remainder stacked up again on a new level. + </p> + <p> + On came another severe blizzard, which continued with only a few minutes' + interval until the evening of the 12th. During the short lull, Jones, + Dovers and Hoadley took a sledge for a load of ice from a pressure-ridge + rather less than two hundred yards from the hut. While they were absent, + the wind freshened again, and they had great difficulty in finding a way + to the entrance. + </p> + <p> + It was very disappointing to be delayed in this manner, but there was + consolation in the fact that we were better off in the hut than on the + glacier, and that there was plenty of work inside. The interior was thus + put in order much earlier than it would otherwise have been. + </p> + <p> + In erecting the hut, it was found that a case of nuts and bolts was + missing, and many places in the frame had in consequence to be secured + with nails. For a while I was rather doubtful how the building would stand + a really heavy blow. There was, however, no need for uneasiness, as the + first two blizzards drifted snow to such a depth in our immediate vicinity + that, even with the wind at hurricane force, there was scarcely a tremor + in the building. + </p> + <p> + The morning of Wednesday March 13 was calm and overcast. Breakfast was + served at six o'clock. We then set to work and cleared away the snow from + the masts and stay-posts, so that by 8.30 A.M. both masts were in + position. Before the job was over, a singular sight was witnessed. A large + section of the glacier—many thousands of tons—calved off into + the sea. The tremendous waves raised by the fall of this mass smashed into + fragments all the floe left in the bay. With the sea-ice went the + snow-slopes which were the natural roadway down. A perpendicular cliff, + sixty to one hundred feet above the water, was all that remained, and our + opportunities of obtaining seals and penguins in the future were cut off. + Of course, too, the old landing-place no longer existed. + </p> + <p> + The whole of the sledging provisions and gear were brought out, weighed + and packed on the sledges; the total weight being one thousand two hundred + and thirty-three pounds. Dovers, Harrisson, Hoadley, Jones, Moyes and + myself were to constitute the party. + </p> + <p> + It was necessary for two men to remain behind at the base to keep the + meteorological records, to wind chronometers, to feed the dogs and to + bring up the remainder of the stores from the edge of the ice-cliff. + Kennedy, the magnetician, had to stay, as two term days** were due in the + next month. It was essential that we should have a medical man with us, so + Jones was included in the sledging party; the others drawing lots to + decide who should remain with Kennedy. The unlucky one was Watson. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Days set apart by previous arrangement for magnetic "quick runs." +</pre> + <p> + To the south of the Base, seventeen miles distant at the nearest point, + the mainland was visible, entirely ice-clad, running almost due east and + west. It appeared to rise rapidly to about three thousand feet, and then + to ascend more gradually as the great plateau of the Antarctic continent. + It was my intention to travel inland beyond the lower ice-falls, which + extended in an irregular line of riven bluffs all along the coast, and + then to lay a depot or depots which might be useful on the next season's + journeys. Another reason for making the journey was to give the party some + experience in sledging work. The combined weight of both sledges and + effects was one thousand two hundred and thirty-three pounds, and the + total amount of food carried was four hundred and sixty pounds. + </p> + <p> + While the sledges were being loaded, ten skua gulls paid us a visit, and, + as roast skua is a very pleasant change of food, Jones shot six of them. + </p> + <p> + At 1 P.M. we left the hut, making an east-south-east course to clear a + pressure-ridge; altering the course once more to south-east. The coast in + this direction looked accessible, whereas a line running due south would + have brought us to some unpromising ice-falls by a shorter route. + </p> + <p> + The surface was very good and almost free from crevasses; only one, into + which Jones fell to his middle, being seen during the afternoon's march. + Not wishing to do too much the first day, especially after the "soft" days + we had been forced to spend in the hut during the spell of bad weather, I + made two short halts in the afternoon and camped at 5 P.M., having done + seven and half miles. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th we rose at 5 A.M., and at 7 A.M. we were on the march. For the + two hours after starting, the surface was tolerable and then changed for + the worse; the remainder of the day's work being principally over a hard + crust, which was just too brittle to bear the weight of a man, letting him + through to a soft substratum, six or eight inches deep in the snow. Only + those who have travelled in country like this can properly realize how + wearisome it is. + </p> + <p> + At 9 A.M. the course was altered to south, as there appeared to be a + fairly good track up the hills. The surface of the glacier rose and fell + in long undulations which became wider and more marked as the land + approached. By the time we camped, they were three-quarters of a mile from + crest to crest, with a drop of thirty feet from crest to trough. Despite + the heavy trudging we covered more than thirteen miles. + </p> + <p> + I made the marching hours 7 A.M. to 5 P.M., so that there was time to get + the evening meal before darkness set in; soon after 6 P.M. + </p> + <p> + The march commenced about seven o'clock on March 15, the thermometer + registering -8 degrees F., while a light southerly breeze made it feel + much colder. The exercise soon warmed us up and, when the breeze died + away, the remainder of the day was perfectly calm. + </p> + <p> + A surface of "pie-crust" cut down the mileage in the forenoon. At 11 A.M. + we encountered many crevasses, from two to five feet wide, with clean-cut + sides and shaky bridges. Hoadley went down to his head in one, and we all + got our legs in others. + </p> + <p> + It became evident after lunch that the land was nearing rapidly, its lower + slopes obscuring the higher land behind. The crevasses also became wider, + so I lengthened the harness with an alpine rope to allow more room and to + prevent more than two men from being over a chasm at the same time. At 4 + P.M. we were confronted with one sixty feet wide. Crevasses over thirty + feet in width usually have very solid bridges and may be considered safe, + but this one had badly broken edges and one hundred yards on the right the + lid had collapsed. So instead of marching steadily across, we went over + singly on the alpine rope and hauled the sledges along in their turn, when + all had crossed in safety. Immediately after passing this obstacle the + grade became steeper, and, between three and five o'clock, we rose two + hundred feet, traversing several large patches of neve. + </p> + <p> + That night the tent stood on a field of snow covering the lower slopes of + the hills. On either hand were magnificent examples of ice-falls, but + ahead the way seemed open. + </p> + <p> + With the exception of a preliminary stiffness, every one felt well after + the toil of the first few days. + </p> + <p> + In bright sunlight next morning all went to examine the ice-falls to the + east, which were two miles away. Roping up, we made an ascent half-way to + the top which rose five hundred feet and commanded a grand panorama of + glacier and coast. Soon the wind freshened and drift began to fly. When we + regained the tents a gale was blowing, with heavy drift, so there was + nothing to do but make ourselves as comfortable as possible inside. + </p> + <p> + All through Saturday night the gale raged and up till 11.30 A.M. on Sunday + March 16. On turning out, we found that the tents and sledges were covered + deeply in snow, and we dug continuously for more than two hours before we + were able to pack up and get away. Both sledges ran easily for nearly a + mile over neve, when the gradient increased to one in ten, forcing us to + relay. It was found necessary to change our finnesko for spiked boots. + Relaying regularly, we gradually mounted six hundred feet over neve and + massive sastrugi. With a steep slope in front, a halt was made for the + night. The sunset was a picture of prismatic colours reflected over the + undulating ice-sheet and the tumbling cascades of the glacier. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of March 18 the altitude of our camp was one thousand four + hundred and ten feet, and the slope was covered with sastrugi ridges, + three to four feet in height. Travelling over these on the following day + we had frequent capsizes. + </p> + <p> + The outlook to the south was a series of irregular terraces, varying from + half a mile to two miles in breadth and twenty to two hundred feet in + height. These were furrowed by small valleys and traversed by ridges, but + there was not a sign of rock anywhere. + </p> + <p> + The temperature varied from 4 degrees to 14 degrees F. during the day, and + the minimum recorded at night was -11 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + Another nine miles of slow ascent brought us to two thousand feet, + followed by a rise of two hundred and twenty feet in seven and + three-quarter miles on March 21. Hauling over high broken sastrugi was + laborious enough to make every one glad when the day was over. The rations + were found sufficient, but the plasmon biscuits were so hard that they had + to be broken with a geological hammer. + </p> + <p> + There now swept down on us a blizzard** which lasted for a whole week, on + the evening of March 21. According to my diary, the record is as follows: + </p> + <p> + "Friday, March 22. Snowing heavily all day, easterly wind: impossible to + travel as nothing can be seen more than ten to twelve yards away. + Temperature high, 7 degrees to 18 degrees F. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** It is a singular fact that this blizzard occurred on the same date +as that during which Captain Scott and his party lost their lives. +</pre> + <p> + "Saturday, March 23. Blowing hard at turn-out time, so did not breakfast + until 8.30. Dovers is cook in my tent this week. He got his clothes filled + up with snow while bringing in the cooker, food-bag, etc. The wind + increased to a fierce gale during the day, and all the loose snow which + fell yesterday was shifted. + </p> + <p> + "About 5 P.M. the snow was partially blown away from the skirt or ground + cloth, and the tent bulged in a good deal. I got into burberries and went + out to secure it; it was useless to shovel on snow as it was blown off + immediately. I therefore dragged the food-bags off the sledge and dumped + them on. The wind and drift were so strong that I had several times to get + in the lee of the tent to recover my breath and to clear the mask of snow + from my face. + </p> + <p> + "We are now rather crowded through the tent bulging in so much, and having + cooker and food-bag inside. + </p> + <p> + "Sunday, March 24. Had a very bad night. The wind was chopping about from + south-east to north and blowing a hurricane. One side of the tent was + pressed in past the centre, and I had to turn out and support it with bag + lashings. Then the ventilator was blown in and we had a pile of snow two + feet high over the sleeping-bags; this kept us warm, but it was impossible + to prevent some of it getting into the bags, and now we are very wet and + the bags like sponges. There were quite two hundredweights of snow on us; + all of which came through a hole three inches wide. + </p> + <p> + "According to report from the other tent they are worse off than we are; + they say they have four feet of snow in the tent. All this is due to the + change of wind, making the ventilator to windward instead of leeward. + </p> + <p> + "March 25, 26 and 27. Blizzard still continues, less wind but more + snowfall. + </p> + <p> + "Thursday, March 28. Heavy falling snow and drift, south-east wind. At + noon, the wind eased down and snow ceased falling, so we slipped into our + burberry over-suits and climbed out to dig for the sledges. + </p> + <p> + "Nothing could be seen except about two feet of the tops of the tents, + which meant that there was a deposit of five feet of freshly fallen snow. + The upper two feet was soft and powdery, offering no resistance; under + that it was still soft, so that we sank to our thighs every step and + frequently to the waist. By 4.30 P.M. both sledges were rescued, and it + was ascertained that no gear had been lost. We all found that the week of + idleness and confinement had weakened us, and at first were only able to + take short spells at the digging. The sky and barometer promise fine + weather to-morrow, but what awful work it will be pulling!" + </p> + <p> + At 5.30 A.M. on March 29 the weather was bright and calm. As a strong wind + had blown throughout the night, a harder surface was expected. Outside, we + were surprised to find a fresh wind and thick, low drift; owing to the + tents being snowed up so high, the threshing of the drift was not audible. + To my disgust the surface was as soft as ever. It appeared that the only + resort was to leave the provisions for the depot on the nearest ridge and + return to the Base. The temperature was -20 degrees F., and, while digging + out the tents, Dovers had his nose frost-bitten. + </p> + <p> + It took six of us well over an hour to drag the necessary food half a mile + up a rise of less than one hundred feet; the load, sledge included, not + being five hundred pounds. Nearly all the time we were sinking thigh-deep, + and the sledge itself was going down so far that the instrument-box was + pushing a mass of snow in front of it. Arriving on the ridge, Moyes found + that his foot was frozen and he had to go back to camp, as there was too + much wind to bring it round in the open. + </p> + <p> + Sufficient food and oil were left at this depot for three men for six + weeks; also a minimum thermometer. + </p> + <p> + In a fresh breeze and flying drift we were off at 10 A.M. next day. At + first we were ambitious and moved away with two sledges, sinking from two + to three feet all the time. Forty yards was as much as we could do without + a rest, and by lunch time nine hundred yards was the total. Now the course + was downhill, and the two sledges were pulled together, creeping along + with painful slowness, as walking was the hardest work imaginable. After + one of the most strenuous days I have ever experienced, we camped; the + sledge-meter recorded one mile four hundred and fifty yards. + </p> + <p> + A spell of two days' blizzard cooped us up once more, but improved the + surface slightly. Still, it was dreadfully soft, and, but for the falling + gradient, we would not have made what we did; five miles six hundred and + ten yards, on April 2. On that and the following day it was fortunate that + the road chosen was free of crevasses. + </p> + <p> + At the foot of the hills I had decided to reduce the rations but, as the + track had grown firm once more, and we were only twenty-five miles from + the hut, with a week's food, I thought it would be safe to use the full + allowance. + </p> + <p> + Soon after leaving the hills (April 4), a direct course to the hut was + made. There was no mark by which to steer, except a "water-sky" to the + north, the hinterland being clouded over. During the afternoon, the sun + occasionally gleamed through a tract of cirro-stratus cloud and there was + a very fine parhelion: signs of an approaching blizzard. At 4.30 P.M. we + had done seventeen and a half miles, and, as all hands were fresh and + willing, I decided to have a meal and go on again, considering that the + moon was full and there were only six miles to be done. + </p> + <p> + After supper the march was continued till 8.30 P.M., by which time we were + due for a rest. I had begun to think that we had passed the hut. + </p> + <p> + April 5 was far from being a Good Friday for us. At 2 A.M. a fresh breeze + rose and rapidly increased to a heavy gale. At 10 A.M. Hoadley and I had + to go out to secure the tent; the weather-side bulged in more than half + the width of the tent and was held by a solid load of drift, but the other + sides were flapping so much that almost all the snow had been shaken off + the skirt. Though only five yards away from it we could not see the other + tent. At noon Hoadley again went out to attend to the tent and entirely + lost himself within six feet of it. He immediately started to yell and I + guessed what was the matter at once. Dovers and I shouted our best, and + Hoadley groped his way in with a mask of snow over his face. He told us + that the wind which was then blowing a good eighty miles an hour, knocked + him down immediately he was outside, and, when he struggled to his feet + again, he could see nothing and had no idea in what direction lay the + tent. + </p> + <p> + The space inside was now so limited by the combined pressure of wind and + snow that we did not light the primus, eating lumps of frozen pemmican for + the evening meal. + </p> + <p> + The blizzard continued with unabated violence until eleven o'clock next + morning, when it moderated within an hour to half a gale. We turned out + and had a good hot meal. Then we looked to see how the others had fared + and found that their tent had collapsed. Getting at once into wind-proof + clothing, we rushed out and were horrified to see Harrisson in his bag on + the snow. He quickly assured us that he was all right. After carrying him, + bag and all, into our tent, he emerged quite undamaged, but very hungry. + </p> + <p> + Jones and Moyes now had to be rescued; they were in a most uncomfortable + position under the fallen tent. It appears that the tent had blown down on + the previous morning at ten o'clock, and for thirty-six hours they had had + nothing to eat. We did not take long to dig them out. + </p> + <p> + The wind dropped to a moderate breeze, and, through the falling snow, I + could make out a "water-sky" to the west. The three unfortunates said that + they felt fit to travel, so we got under way. The surface was soft and the + pulling very heavy, and I soon saw that the strain was largely due to the + weakness of the three who had been without food. Calling a halt, I asked + Jones if it would do to go on; he assured me that they could manage to go + on with an effort, and the march was resumed. + </p> + <p> + Not long after, Dovers sighted the wireless mast, and a quarter of an hour + later we were safely in the hut, much to the surprise of Kennedy and + Watson, who did not expect us to be travelling in such weather, and + greatly to our own relief. According to the sledge-meter, the last camp + had only been two miles one hundred yards from home, and if anything had + been visible on the night of April 4, we could have got in easily. + </p> + <p> + I was very pleased with the way all the party had shaped. They had worked + splendidly and were always cheerful, although conditions had been + exceptionally trying during this journey. No one was any the worse for the + hardships, except for a few blistered fingers from frost-bites. The party + lost weight at the average of two and a half pounds; Harrisson was the + greatest loser, being reduced six pounds. Out of the twenty-five days we + were away, it was only possible to sledge on twelve days. The total + distance covered, including relay work, was nearly one hundred and + twenty-two miles, and the greatest elevation reached on the southern + mainland was two thousand six hundred feet above sea-level. + </p> + <p> + Kennedy and Watson had been very busy during our absence. In a few days + they had trained five of the dogs to pull in harness, and transported the + remainder of the stores from the landing-place, arranging them in piles + round the hut. The weather at the Base had been quite as bad as that + experienced by us on the land slopes. + </p> + <p> + In the first blizzard both wireless masts were broken down. Watson and + Kennedy managed to repair and re-erect one of the masts, but it was only + thirty-seven feet in height. Any final hopes of hearing wireless signals + were dispelled by the discovery that the case containing the detector and + several other parts necessary for a receiving-station were missing. + </p> + <p> + Watson had fitted up a splendid dark-room, as well as plenty of shelves + and racks for cooking utensils. + </p> + <p> + Kennedy was able to secure a series of observations on one of his term + days, but, before the next one, the tent he was using was blown to + ribbons. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX THE WESTERN BASE—WINTER AND SPRING + </h2> + <p> + On Easter Sunday, April 7, 1912, a furious blizzard kept us close + prisoners. To meet the occasion, Dovers prepared a special dinner, the + principal item being roast mutton, from one of the six carcases landed + with the stores. Divine service was held in the forenoon. + </p> + <p> + The blizzard raged with such force all Sunday and Monday that I dared not + let any one go out to feed the dogs, although we found, later, that a fast + of three days did not hurt them at all. + </p> + <p> + I now thought it time to establish a winter routine. Each member had his + particular duties to perform, in addition to general work, in which all + hands were engaged. Harrisson took charge of the lamps and checked + consumption of oil. Hoadley had the care of the provisions, making out + lists showing the amount the cook might use of each article of food, + besides opening cases and stowing a good assortment on convenient shelves + in the veranda. Jones and Kennedy worked the acetylene plant. In connexion + with this, I should mention that several parts were missing, including + T-pieces for joints and connexions for burners. However Jones, in addition + to his ability as a surgeon, showed himself to be an excellent plumber, + brazier and tinsmith, and the Hut was well lighted all the time we + occupied it. Moyes's duties as meteorologist took him out at all hours. + Watson looked after the dogs, while Dovers relieved other members when + they were cooks. The duty of cook was taken for a week at a time by every + one except myself. A night watch was kept by each in turn. The watchman + went on duty at 9 P.M., usually taking advantage of this night to have a + bath and wash his clothes. He prepared breakfast, calling all hands at + 8.30 A.M. for this meal at nine o'clock. The cook for the week was exempt + from all other work. In the case of Kennedy, whose magnetic work was done + principally at night, arrangements were made to assist him with the + cooking. + </p> + <p> + Work commenced during the winter months at ten o'clock and, unless + anything special had to be done, finished at 1 P.M., when lunch was + served. The afternoon was usually devoted to sport and recreation. + </p> + <p> + The frequent blizzards and heavy snowfall had by this time buried the Hut + so deeply that only the top of the pointed roof was visible and all the + outside stores were covered. + </p> + <p> + My diary for April 9 says: + </p> + <p> + "The blizzard" (which had commenced on the evening of the 6th) "played + itself out during the night and we got to work immediately after + breakfast. There was still a fresh breeze and low drift, but this + gradually died away. + </p> + <p> + "We were an hour digging an exit from the Hut. The day has been occupied + in cutting a tunnel entrance, forty feet long, through the drift, so that + driving snow cannot penetrate, and we shall be able to get out with less + trouble. + </p> + <p> + "As we get time I intend to excavate caverns in the huge drifts packed + round the house and stow all our stores inside; also a good supply of ice + for use during blizzards. + </p> + <p> + "I had intended to make a trip to Masson Island before the winter properly + set in, but with the weather behaving as it does, I don't think it would + be wise." + </p> + <p> + The 10th, 11th and 12th being fine, good progress was made in digging out + store-rooms on either side of the tunnel, but a blizzard on the 13th and + 14th stopped us again. + </p> + <p> + On going to feed the dogs during the afternoon of the 14th, Watson found + that Nansen was dead; this left us with seven, as Crippen had already + died. Of the remainder, only four were of any value; Sweep and the two + bitches, Tiger and Tich, refusing to do anything in harness, and, as there + was less than sufficient food for them, the two latter had to be shot. + Sweep would have shared the same fate but he disappeared, probably falling + down a crevasse or over the edge of the glacier. + </p> + <p> + Until the end of April almost all our time was spent in making store-rooms + and in searching for buried stores; sometimes a shaft would have to be + sunk eight to twelve feet. Bamboo poles stuck in the snow marked the + positions of the different stacks. The one marking the carbide was blown + away, and it was two days before Dovers finally unearthed it. By the 30th, + caves roomy enough to contain everything were completed, all being + connected by the tunnel. We were now self-contained, and everything was + accessible and immune from the periodic blizzards. + </p> + <p> + The entrance, by the way, was a trap-door built over the tunnel and raised + well above the outside surface to prevent it being drifted over. From + below it was approached by a ladder, but the end of the tunnel was left + open, so that in fine weather we could run sledges in and out with loads + of ice. With each blizzard the entrance was completely choked, and it gave + two men a day's work to clear it out once more. + </p> + <p> + On April 16 Kennedy had a term day. A fresh breeze was blowing and the + temperature was -20 degrees F. Some of his observations had to be taken in + the open and the remainder in a tent. The series took three hours to + complete and by that time he was thoroughly chilled through, his feet and + fingers were frost-bitten and his language had grown more incisive than + usual. + </p> + <p> + Between the 10th and the 19th we made a search for penguins and seals. + Hoadley and Moyes staying behind, the rest of us with tents and equipment + journeyed along the edge of the glacier to the south, without seeing the + smallest sign of life. The edge of the shelf-ice was very much fissured, + many of the breaches giving no sign of their presence, in consequence of + which several falls were sustained. It should be remarked that the + Shackleton Shelf-Ice runs mainly in a southerly direction from the Winter + Quarters, joining the mainland at a point, afterwards named Junction + Corner. The map of Queen Mary Land illustrates this at a glance. + </p> + <p> + From the 25th to the 29th, Kennedy, Harrisson and Jones were employed + building an igloo to be used as a magnetic observatory. On the afternoon + of the 30th, the magnetician invited every one to a tea-party in the igloo + to celebrate the opening. He had the place very nicely decorated with + flags, and after the reception and the formal inspection of the + instruments, we were served with quite a good tea. The outside temperature + was -33 degrees F. and it was not much higher inside the igloo. As a + result, no one extended his visit beyond the bounds of politeness. + </p> + <p> + On May 1, Harrisson, Hoadley and Watson went away south towards the land + at the head of the bay, which curved round to Junction Corner, to examine + icebergs, take photographs and to search for seals. They took the four + dogs with them and, as the load was a light one—three hundred and + forty-two pounds—the dogs pulled it easily. + </p> + <p> + I went with the others to the north, hoping that we might find a portion + of the glacier low enough to give access to the sea-ice. There were + several spots where the ice-cliffs were not more than forty to fifty feet + high, but no convenient ramps led down from the cliffs. In any case + neither penguins nor seals were to be had in the vicinity. A great, flat + sheet of frozen sea stretched away to the north for quite thirty miles. + </p> + <p> + May 2 was fine, but the 3rd and 4th were windy once more and we had to + remain indoors. Saturday, the 4th, was clean-up day, when the verandas, + tunnel and cave were swept and tidied, the stove cleaned, the hut and + darkroom scrubbed and the windows cleared. The last was a job which was + generally detested. During the week, the windows in the roof collected a + coat of ice, from an inch to three inches thick, by condensation of + moisture. Chipping this off was a most tedious piece of work, while in the + process one's clothes became filled with ice. + </p> + <p> + One Sunday, Harrisson, Hoadley and Watson returned from their short trip; + they had missed the strong winds which had been blowing at the Base, + although less than twenty miles away. Some very fine old icebergs were + discovered which were of interest to the two geologists and made good + subjects for Harrisson's sketches. Watson had had a nasty fall while + crossing a patch of rough ice, his nose being rather badly cut in the + accident. + </p> + <p> + On May 7 another blizzard stopped all outside work. Moyes ventured as far + as the meteorological screen at noon and got lost, but luckily only for a + short time. The barometer behaved very strangely during the blow, rising + abruptly during a little more than an hour, and then slowly falling once + more. For a few hours on the 8th there was a lull and the store of ice was + replenished, but the 9th and 10th were again spent indoors, repairing and + refitting tents, poles and other sledging gear during the working hours, + and reading or playing chess and bridge in the leisure time. Harrisson + carved an excellent set of chessmen, distinguishing the "black" ones by a + stain of permanganate of potash. + </p> + <p> + Bridge was the favourite game all through the winter, and a continuous + record of the scores was kept. Two medals were struck: a neat little thing + for the highest scorer and a huge affair as large as a plate, slung on a + piece of three-and-a-half-inch rope, with "Jonah" inscribed on it, to be + worn by the player at the foot of the list. + </p> + <p> + Divine service was held every Sunday, Moyes and I taking it in turn. There + was only one hymn book amongst the party, which made it necessary to write + out copies of the hymns each week. + </p> + <p> + The sleeping-bags used on the first sledging journey had been hung up near + the roof. They were now taken down to be thoroughly overhauled. As a + consequence of their severe soaking, they had shrunk considerably and + required enlarging. Dovers's bag, besides contracting a good deal, had + lost much hair and was cut up to patch the others. He received a spare one + to replace it. + </p> + <p> + May 15 was a beautiful bright morning and I went over to an icy cape two + miles southward, with Harrisson, Hoadley, Dovers and Watson, to find a + road down to the sea-ice. Here, we had good fortune at last, for, by + following down a crevasse which opened out at sea-level into a magnificent + cave, we walked straight out on to the level plain. Along the edge of the + glacier there was not even a seal's blow-hole. Watson took some photos of + the cave and cliff. + </p> + <p> + It was Kennedy's term night; the work keeping him in the igloo from 10 + P.M. until 2.30 A.M. He had had some difficulty in finding a means of + warming the observatory—an urgent necessity, since he found it + impossible to manipulate delicate magnetic instruments for three or four + hours with the temperature from -25 degrees F. to -30 degrees F. The + trouble was to make a non-magnetic lamp and the problem was finally solved + by using one of the aluminium cooking pots; converting it into a blubber + stove. The stove smoked a great deal and the white walls were soon + besmirched with a layer of soot. + </p> + <p> + The 17th, 18th and 19th were all calm but dull. One day I laid out a + ten-hole golf course and with some homemade balls and hockey sticks for + clubs played a game, not devoid of interest and excitement. + </p> + <p> + During a blizzard which descended on the evening of the 20th, Zip and + Sweep disappeared and on the 21st, a search on the glacier having been in + vain, Dovers and Hoadley made their way down to the floe. They found Zip + well and hearty in spite of having had a drop of at least forty feet off + the glacier. A further search for Sweep proved fruitless. We were forced + to conclude that he was either killed by falling over the precipice or he + had gone far away hunting for penguins. + </p> + <p> + The regular blizzard immured us on May 22, 23 and 24; the wind at times of + terrific force, approaching one hundred miles per hour. It was impossible + to secure meteorological observations or to feed the dogs until noon on + the 24th. Moyes and I went out during a slight cessation and, with the aid + of a rope from the trap-door, managed to find the dogs, and gave them some + biscuits. The drift was then so thick that six feet was as far as one + could see. + </p> + <p> + We did not forget Empire Day and duly "spliced the mainbrace." The most + bigoted teetotaller could not call us an intemperate party. On each + Saturday night, one drink per man was served out, the popular toast being + "Sweethearts and Wives." The only other convivial meetings of our small + symposium were on the birthdays of each member, Midwinter's Day and King's + Birthday. + </p> + <p> + On the 25th we were able to make an inventory of a whole series of damages + effected outside. The dogs' shelter had entirely carried away; a short + mast which had been erected some weeks previously as a holdfast for + sledges was snapped off short and the sledges buried, and, worst of all, + Kennedy's igloo had parted with its roof, the interior being filled with + snow, underneath which the instruments were buried. The dogs were, + however, all quite well and lively. It was fortunate for them that the + temperature always rose during the blizzards. At this period, when on fine + days it was usual to experience -25 degrees to-37 degrees F., the + temperature rose in the snowstorms to 25 degrees or even 30 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + Monday the 27th was beautifully clear. The tunnel entrance was opened and + some of the party brought in ice while others undid the rope lashings + which had been placed over the hut. This was so compactly covered in snow + that the lashings were not required and I wanted to make a rope ladder to + enable us to get down to the sea-ice and also to be used by Watson and + Hoadley, who were about to dig a shaft in the glacier to examine the + structure of the ice. + </p> + <p> + Fine weather continued until June 2. During this time we were occupied in + digging a road from the glacier down to the sea-ice in the forenoons and + hunting for seals or skiing in the afternoons. Kennedy and Harrisson + rebuilt the magnetic igloo. A seal-hole was eventually found near the foot + of the glacier and this was enlarged to enable the seals to come up. + </p> + <p> + At the end of May, daylight lasted from 9 A.M. until 3 P.M., and the + sunrise and sunset were a marvel of exquisite colour. The nightly displays + of aurora australis were not very brilliant as the moon was nearing the + full. + </p> + <p> + On the days of blizzards, there was usually sufficient work to be found to + keep us all employed. Thus on June 2, Watson and I were making a ladder, + Jones was contriving a harpoon for seals, Hoadley was opening cases and + stowing stores in the veranda, Dovers cleaning tools, Moyes repairing a + thermograph and writing up the meteorological log, Harrisson cooking and + Kennedy sleeping after a night-watch. + </p> + <p> + Between June 4 and 22 there was a remarkably fine spell. It was not calm + all the time, as drift flew for a few days, limiting the horizon to a few + hundred yards. An igloo was built as a shelter for those sinking the + geological shaft, and seal-hunting was a daily recreation. On June 9, + Dovers and Watson found a Weddell seal two and a half miles to the west on + the sea-ice. They killed the animal but did not cut it up as there were + sores on the skin. Jones went over with them afterwards and pronounced the + sores to be wounds received from some other animal, so the meat was + considered innocuous and fifty pounds were brought in, being very welcome + after tinned foods. Jones took culture tubes with him and made smears for + bacteria. The tubes were placed in an incubator and several kinds of + organisms grew, very similar to those which infect wounds in ordinary + climates. + </p> + <p> + The snowstorms had by this time built up huge drifts under the lee of the + ice-cliffs, some of them more than fifty feet in height and reaching + almost to the top of the ice-shelf. An exhilarating sport was to ski down + these ramps. The majority of them were very steep and irregular and it was + seldom that any of us escaped without a fall at one time or another. + Several of the party were thrown from thirty to forty feet, and, + frequently enough, over twenty feet, without being hurt. The only accident + serious enough to disable any one happened to Kennedy on June 19, when he + twisted his knee and was laid up for a week. + </p> + <p> + There were many fine displays of the aurora in June, the best being + observed on the evening of the 18th. Curtains and streamers were showing + from four o'clock in the afternoon. Shortly after midnight, Kennedy, who + was taking magnetic observations, called me to see the most remarkable + exhibition I have so far seen. There was a double curtain 30 degrees wide + unfolded from the eastern horizon through the zenith, with waves + shimmering along it so rapidly that they travelled the whole length of the + curtain in two seconds. The colouring was brilliant and evanescent. When + the waves reached the end of the curtain they spread out to the north and + rolled in a voluminous billow slowly back to the east. Kennedy's + instruments showed that a very great magnetic disturbance was in progress + during the auroral displays, and particularly on this occasion. + </p> + <p> + Hoadley and Watson set up a line of bamboos, a quarter of a mile apart and + three miles long, on the 20th, and from thence onwards took measurements + for snowfall every fortnight. + </p> + <p> + On Midwinter's Day the temperature ranged from -38 degrees F. to -25 + degrees F. and daylight lasted from 10 A.M. until 4 P.M. We proclaimed a + universal holiday throughout Queen Mary Land. Being Saturday, there were a + few necessary jobs to be done, but all were finished by 11 A.M. The + morning was fine and several of us went down to the floe for skiing, but + after twelve o'clock the sky became overcast and the light was dimmed. A + strong breeze brought along a trail of drift, and at 6 P.M. a heavy + blizzard was in full career. Inside, the hut was decorated with flags and + a savoury dinner was in the throes of preparation. To make the repast + still more appetising, Harrisson, Hoadley and Dovers devised some very + pretty and clever menus. Speeches, toasts and a gramophone concert made + the evening pass quickly and enjoyably. + </p> + <p> + From this time dated our preparations for spring sledging, which I hoped + would commence about August 15. Jones made some experiments with "glaxo," + of which we had a generous supply. His aim was to make biscuits which + would be suitable for sledging, and, after several failures, he succeeded + in compressing with a steel die a firm biscuit of glaxo and butter mixed, + three ounces of which was the equivalent in theoretical food value to four + and a half ounces of plasmon biscuit; thereby affording a pleasant variety + in the usual ration. + </p> + <p> + July came in quietly, though it was dull and cloudy, and we were able to + get out on the first two days for work and exercise. On the 2nd a very + fine effect was caused by the sun shining through myriads of fog-crystals + which a light northerly breeze had brought down from the sea. The sun, + which was barely clear of the horizon, was itself a deep red, on either + side and above it was a red mock sun and a rainbow-tinted halo connected + the three mock suns. + </p> + <p> + On the 5th and 6th the wind blew a terrific hurricane (judged to reach a + velocity of one hundred miles per hour) and, had we not known that nothing + short of an earthquake could move the hut, we should have been very + uneasy. + </p> + <p> + All were now busy making food-bags, opening and breaking up pemmican and + emergency rations, grinding biscuits, attending to personal gear and doing + odd jobs many and various. + </p> + <p> + In addition to recreations like chess, cards and dominoes, a competition + was started for each member to write a poem and short article, humorous or + otherwise, connected with the Expedition. These were all read by the + authors after dinner one evening and caused considerable amusement. One + man even preferred to sing his poem. These literary efforts were + incorporated in a small publication known as "The Glacier Tongue." + </p> + <p> + Watson and Hoadley put in a good deal of time digging their shaft in the + glacier. As a roofed shelter had been built over the top, they were able + to work in all but the very worst weather. While the rest of us were + fitting sledges on the 17th and 18th, they succeeded in getting down to a + level of twenty-one feet below the surface of the shelf-ice. + </p> + <p> + Sandow, the leader of the dogs, disappeared on the 18th. Zip, who had been + missed for two days, returned, but Sandow never came back, being killed, + doubtless, by a fall of snow from the cliffs. All along the edge of the + ice-shelf were snow cornices, some weighing hundreds of tons; and these + often broke away, collapsing with a thunderous sound. On July 31, + Harrisson and Watson had a narrow escape. After finishing their day's + work, they climbed down to the floe by a huge cornice and sloping ramp. A + few seconds later, the cornice fell and an immense mass of hard snow + crashed down, cracking the sea-ice for more than a hundred yards around. + </p> + <p> + July had been an inclement month with three really fine and eight + tolerable days. In comparison with June's, which was -14.5 degrees F., the + mean temperature of July was high at -1.5 degrees F. and the early half of + August was little better. + </p> + <p> + Sunday August 11 was rather an eventful day. Dovers and I went out in the + wind to attend to the dogs and clear the chimney and, upon our return, + found the others just recovering from rather an exciting accident. Jones + had been charging the acetylene generators and by some means one of them + caught fire. For a while there was the danger of a general conflagration + and explosion, as the gas-tank was floating in kerosene. Throwing water + over everything would have made matters worse, so blankets were used to + smother the flames. As this failed to extinguish them, the whole plant was + pulled down and carried into the tunnel, where the fire was at last put + out. The damage amounted to two blankets singed and dirtied, Jones's face + scorched and hair singed, and Kennedy, one finger jammed. It was a + fortunate escape from a calamity. + </p> + <p> + A large capsized berg had been noticed for some time, eleven miles to the + north. On the 14th, Harrisson, Dovers, Hoadley and Watson took three days' + provisions and equipment and went off to examine it. A brief account is + extracted from Harrisson's diary: + </p> + <p> + "It was a particularly fine, mild morning; we made good progress, three + dogs dragging the loaded sledge over the smooth floe without difficulty, + requiring assistance only when crossing banks of soft snow. One and a half + miles from 'The Steps,' we saw the footprints of a penguin. + </p> + <p> + "Following the cliffs of the shelf-ice for six and three quarter miles, we + sighted a Weddell seal sleeping on a drift of snow. Killing the animal, + cutting off the meat and burying it in the drift delayed us for about one + hour. Continuing our journey under a fine bluff, over floe-ice much + cracked by tide-pressure, we crossed a small bay cutting wedge-like into + the glacier and camped on its far side. + </p> + <p> + "After our midday meal we walked to the berg three miles away. When seen + on June 28, this berg was tilted to the north-east, but the opposite end, + apparently in contact with the ice-cliffs, had lifted higher than the + glacier-shelf itself. From a distance it could be seen that the sides, for + half their height, were wave-worn and smooth. Three or four acres of + environing floe were buckled, ploughed up and in places heaped twenty feet + high, while several large fragments of the broken floe were poised aloft + on the old 'water-line' of the berg. + </p> + <p> + "However, on this visit, we found that the berg had turned completely over + towards the cliffs and was now floating on its side surrounded by large + separate chunks; all locked fast in the floe. In what had been the bottom + of the berg Hoadley and Watson made an interesting find of stones and + pebbles—the first found in this dead land! + </p> + <p> + "Leaving them collecting, I climbed the pitted wave-worn ice, brittle and + badly cracked on the higher part. The highest point was fifty feet above + the level of the top of the shelf-ice. There was no sign of open water to + the north, but a few seals were observed sleeping under the cliffs." + </p> + <p> + Next morning the weather thickened and the wind arose, so a start was made + for the Base. All that day the party groped along in the comparative + shelter of the cliff-face until forced to camp. It was not till the next + afternoon in moderate drift that a pair of skis which had been left at the + foot of 'The Steps' were located and the hut reached once again. + </p> + <p> + After lunch on August 11, while we were excavating some buried kerosene, + Jones sighted a group of seven Emperor penguins two miles away over the + western floe. Taking a sledge and camera we made after them. A mile off, + they saw us and advanced with their usual stately bows. It seemed an awful + shame to kill them, but we were sorely in need of fresh meat. The four we + secured averaged seventy pounds in weight and were a heavy load up the + steep rise to the glacier; but our reward came at dinner-time. + </p> + <p> + With several fine days to give us confidence, everything was made ready + for the sledge journey on August 20. The party was to consist of six men + and three dogs, the object of the journey being to lay out a food-depot to + the east in view of the long summer journey we were to make in that + direction. Hoadley and Kennedy were to remain at the Base, the former to + finish the geological shaft and the latter for magnetic work. There + remained also a good deal to do preparing stores for later sledge + journeys. + </p> + <p> + The load was to be one thousand four hundred and forty pounds distributed + over three sledges; two hundred pounds heavier than on the March Journey, + but as the dogs pulled one sledge, the actual weight per man was less. + </p> + <p> + The rations were almost precisely the same as those used by Shackleton + during his Expedition, and the daily allowance was exactly the same—thirty-four + ounces per man per day. For his one ounce of oatmeal, the same weighs of + ground biscuit was substituted; the food value being the same. On the + second depot journey and the main summer journeys, a three-ounce glaxo + biscuit was used in place of four and a half ounces of plasmon biscuit. + Instead of taking cheese and chocolate as the luncheon ration, I took + chocolate alone, as on Shackleton's southern journey it was found more + satisfactory than the cheese, though the food value was practically the + same. + </p> + <p> + The sledging equipment and clothing were identical with that used by + Shackleton. Jaeger fleece combination suits were included in the outfit + but, though excellent garments for work at the Base, they were much too + heavy for sledging. We therefore wore Jaeger underclothing and burberry + wind clothing as overalls. + </p> + <p> + The weather was not propitious for a start until Thursday, August 22. We + turned out at 5.30 A.M., had breakfast, packed up and left the Hut at + seven o'clock. + </p> + <p> + After two good days' work under a magnificently clear sky, with the + temperature often as low as -34 degrees F., we sighted two small nunataks + among a cluster of pressure-ridges, eight miles to the south. It was the + first land, in the sense of rocks, seen for more than seven months. We + hoped to visit the outcrops—Gillies Nunataks—on our return. + </p> + <p> + The course next day was due east and parallel to the mainland, then ten + miles distant. To the north was Masson Island, while at about the same + distance and ahead was a smaller island, entirely ice-covered like the + former—Henderson Island. + </p> + <p> + A blizzard of three days' duration kept us in camp between August 27 and + 30. Jones, Moyes and I had a three-man sleeping-bag, and the temperature + being high, 11 degrees to 15 degrees F., we were very warm, but thoroughly + tired of lying down for so long. Harrisson, Dovers and Watson had single + bags and therefore less room in the other tent. + </p> + <p> + The last day of August was beautifully bright: temperature -12 degrees to + -15 degrees F. We passed Henderson Island in the forenoon, and, hauling up + a rise to the south of it, had a good view of the surroundings. On the + right, the land ran back to form a large bay, seventeen miles wide. This + was later named the Bay of Winds, as a "blow" was always encountered while + crossing it. + </p> + <p> + In the centre of the bay was a nunatak, which from its shape at once + received the name of the Alligator. In front, apparently fifteen miles + off, was another nunatak, the Hippo, and four definite outcrops—Delay + Point and Avalanche Rocks—could be seen along the mainland. The + sight of this bare rock was very pleasing, as we had begun to think we + were going to find nothing but ice-sheathed land. Dovers took a round of + angles to all the prominent points. + </p> + <p> + The Hippo was twenty-two miles away, so deceptive is distance in these + latitudes; and in one and a half days, over very heavy sastrugi, we were + in its vicinity. The sledges could not be brought very near the rock as it + was surrounded by massive ridges of pressure-ice. + </p> + <p> + We climbed to the top of the nunatak which was four hundred and twenty + feet high, four hundred yards long and two hundred yards wide. It was + composed of gneissic granite and schists. Dovers took angles from an + eminence, Watson collected geological specimens and Harrisson sketched + until his fingers were frost-bitten. Moss and lichens were found and a + dead snow petrel—a young one—showing that the birds must breed + in the vicinity. + </p> + <p> + To the south, the glacier shelf appeared to be very little broken, but to + the north it was terribly torn and twisted. At each end of the nunatak + there was a very fine bergschrund.** Twenty miles to the east there + appeared to be an uncovered rocky islet; the mainland turning to the + southward twelve miles away. During the night the minimum thermometer + registered -47 degrees F. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** The term not used in the usual sense. Referring to a wide, +imposing crevasse caused by the division of the ice as it presses past +the nunatak.—ED. +</pre> + <p> + An attempt to get away next morning was frustrated by a strong gale. We + were two hundred yards from the shelter of the Hippo and were forced to + turn back, since it was difficult to keep one's feet, while the sledges + were blown sideways over the neve surface. + </p> + <p> + I resolved to leave the depot in this place and return to the Base, for + our sleeping-bags were getting very wet and none of the party were having + sufficient sleep. We were eighty-four miles from the hut; I had hoped to + do one hundred miles, but we could make up for that by starting the summer + journey a few days earlier. One sledge was left here as well as six weeks' + allowance of food for three men, except tea, of which there was sufficient + for fifty days, seventy days oil and seventy-eight days' biscuit. The + sledge was placed on end in a hole three feet deep and a mound built up + around it, six feet high; a bamboo and flag being lashed to the top. + </p> + <p> + On September 4 we were homeward bound, heading first to the mainland + leaving Delay Point on our left, to examine some of the outcrops of rock. + Reaching the coast about 3 P.M., camp was shortly afterwards pitched in a + most beautiful spot. A wall of solid rock rose sheer for over four hundred + feet and was crowned by an ice-cap half the thickness. Grand ice-falls + surged down on either side. + </p> + <p> + The tents were erected in what appeared to be a sheltered hollow, a + quarter of a mile from Avalanche Rocks. One tent was up and we were + setting the other in position when the wind suddenly veered right round to + the east and flattened out both tents. It was almost as humorous as + annoying. They were soon raised up once more, facing the other way. + </p> + <p> + While preparing for bed, a tremendous avalanche came down. The noise was + awful and seemed so close that we all turned to the door and started out. + The fastening of the entrance was knotted, the people from the other tent + were yelling to us to come out, so we dragged up the bottom of the tent + and dived beneath it. + </p> + <p> + The cliff was entirely hidden by a cloud of snow, and, though the crashing + had now almost ceased, we stood ready to run, Dovers thoughtfully seizing + a food-bag. However, none of the blocks had come within a hundred yards of + us, and as it was now blowing hard, all hands elected to remain where they + were. + </p> + <p> + Several more avalanches, which had broken away near the edge of the + mainland, disturbed our sleep through the night, but they were not quite + so alarming as the first one. A strong breeze was blowing at daybreak; + still the weather was not too bad for travelling, and so I called the + party. Moyes and I lashed up our bags, passed them out and strapped them + on the sledge; Jones, in the meantime, starting the cooker. Suddenly a + terrific squall struck the front of our tent, the poles burst through the + apex, and the material split from top to bottom. + </p> + <p> + Moyes and I were both knocked down. When we found our feet again, we went + to the aid of the other men, whose tent had survived the gust. The wind + rushed by more madly than ever, and the only thing to do was to pull away + the poles and allow the tent to collapse. + </p> + <p> + Looking around for a lee where it could be raised, we found the only + available shelter to be a crevasse three hundred yards to windward, but + the wind was now so strong that it was impossible to convey the gear even + to such a short distance. All were frequently upset and blown along the + surface twenty or thirty yards, and, even with an ice-axe, one could not + always hold his own. The only resort was to dig a shelter. + </p> + <p> + Setting to work, we excavated a hole three feet deep, twelve feet long and + six feet wide; the snow being so compact that the job occupied three + hours. The sledges and tent-poles were placed across the hole, the good + tent being laid on top and weighted down with snow and blocks of ice. All + this sounds very easy, but it was a slow and difficult task. Many of the + gusts must have exceeded one hundred miles per hour, since one of them + lifted Harrisson who was standing beside me, clean over my head and threw + him nearly twenty feet. Everything movable was stowed in the hole, and at + noon we had a meal and retired into sleeping-bags. At three o'clock a + weighty avalanche descended, its fearful crash resounding above the roar + of the wind. I have never found anything which gave me a more + uncomfortable feeling than those avalanches. + </p> + <p> + The gale continued on September 6, and we still remained packed in the + trench. If the latter had been deeper and it had been possible to sit + upright, we should have been quite comfortable. To make matters worse, + several more avalanches came down, and all of them sounded horribly close. + </p> + <p> + We were confined in our burrow for five days, the wind continuing to blow + with merciless force. Through being closed up so much, the temperature of + the hole rose above freezing-point, consequently our sleeping-bags and + clothes became very wet. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday September 8, Moyes went out to feed the dogs and to bring in + some biscuit. He found a strong gusty wind with falling snow, and drift so + thick that he could not see five yards. We had a cold lunch with nothing + to drink, so that the primus should not raise the temperature. In the + evening we sang hymns and between us managed to remember the words of at + least a dozen. + </p> + <p> + The long confinement was over on the 10th; the sky was blue and the sun + brilliant, though the wind still pulsated with racking gusts. As soon as + we were on the ice, away from the land, two men had to hold on to the rear + of each sledge, and even then capsizes often occurred. The sledge would + turn and slide broadside-on to leeward, tearing the runners badly on the + rough ice. Still, by 9.30 A.M. the surface changed to snow and the + travelling improved. That night we camped with twenty miles one hundred + yards on the meter. + </p> + <p> + There was a cold blizzard on the 11th with a temperature of -30 degrees F. + Confined in the tents, we found our sleeping-bags still sodden and + uncomfortable. + </p> + <p> + With a strong beam wind and in moderate drift big marches were made for + two days, during which the compass and sastrugi determined our course. + </p> + <p> + My diary of September 14 runs as follows: + </p> + <p> + "On the march at 7 A.M.; by noon we had done twelve miles one thousand + five hundred yards. Lunch was hurried, as we were all anxious to get to + the hut to-night, especially we in the three-man bag, as it got so wet + while we were living underground that we have had very little sleep and + plenty of shivering for the last four nights. Last night I had no sleep at + all. By some means, in the afternoon, we got on the wrong course. Either + the compass was affected or a mistake had been made in some of the + bearings, as instead of reaching home by 5 P.M. we were travelling till 8 + P.M. and have done thirty-two miles one thousand one hundred yards. Light + loads, good surface and a fair wind account for the good travelling, the + sail doing almost all the work on the man-hauled sledge. + </p> + <p> + "The last two hours we were in the dark, except for a young moon, amongst + a lot of crevasses and pressure-ridges which none of us could recognize. + At one time, we found ourselves on a slope within a dozen yards of the + edge of the glacier; this decided me to camp. Awfully disappointing; + anticipating another wretched night. Temperature-35 degrees F." + </p> + <p> + Next day we reached home. The last camp had been four and a half miles + north of the hut. I found that we had gone wrong through using 149 degrees + as the bearing of Masson Island from the Base, when it should have been + 139 degrees. I believe it was my own mistake, as I gave the bearing to + Dovers and he is very careful. + </p> + <p> + Before having a meal, we were all weighed and found the average loss to be + eight pounds. In the evening, Moyes and I weighed ourselves again; he had + gained seven pounds and I five and three-quarter pounds. + </p> + <p> + Comparing notes with Hoadley and Kennedy, I found that the weather at the + Base had been similar to that experienced on the sledging journey. + </p> + <p> + It was now arranged that Jones was to take charge of the main western + journey in the summer. While looking for a landing-place in the 'Aurora', + we had noted to the west an expanse of old, fast floe, extending for at + least fifty miles. The idea was for Jones and party to march along this + floe and lay a depot on the land as far west as was possible in four + weeks. The party included Dovers, Harrisson, Hoadley and Moyes. They were + to be assisted by the dogs. + </p> + <p> + It was my intention to take Kennedy and Watson up to the depot we had left + on the hills in March, bringing back the minimum thermometer and probably + some of the food. Watson was slightly lame at the time, as he had bruised + his foot on the last trip. + </p> + <p> + Until Jones made a start on September 26, there were ten days of almost + continuous wind and drift. The equinox may have accounted for this + prolonged period of atrocious weather. No time, however, was wasted + indoors. Weighing and bagging food, repairing tents, poles, cookers and + other gear damaged on the last journey and sewing and mending clothes gave + every man plenty of employment. + </p> + <p> + At 6 A.M. on the 26th, Jones reported that there was only a little low + drift and that the wind was dying away. All hands were therefore called + and breakfast served. + </p> + <p> + Watson, Kennedy and I assisted the others down to the sea-ice by a long + sloping snow-drift and saw them off to a good start in a south-westerly + direction. We found that the heavy sledge used for carrying ice had been + blown more then five hundred yards to the edge of the glacier, capsized + among the rough pressure-slabs and broken. Two heavy boxes which were on + the sledge had disappeared altogether. + </p> + <p> + The rest of the day was devoted to clearing stores out of the tunnels. It + was evident to us that with the advent of warmer weather, the roof of the + caves or grottoes (by the way, the hut received the name of "The + Grottoes") would sink, and so it was advisable to repack the cases outside + rather than dig them out of the deep snow. By 6 P.M. nearly two hundred + boxes were passed up through the trap-door and the caverns were all empty. + </p> + <p> + After two days of blizzard, Watson, Kennedy and I broke trail with loads + of one hundred and seventy pounds per man. Right from the start the + surface was so soft that pulling became very severe. On the first day, + September 29, we managed to travel more than nine miles, but during the + next six days the snow became deeper and more impassable, and only + nineteen miles were covered. Crevasses were mostly invisible, and on the + slope upwards to the ice-cap more troublesome than usual. The weather kept + up its invariable wind and drift. Finally, after making laborious headway + to two thousand feet, Kennedy strained his Achilles tendon and I decided + to return to "The Grottoes." + </p> + <p> + At 2 P.M. on October 8, the mast was sighted and we climbed down into the + Hut, finding it very cold, empty and dark. The sun had shone powerfully + that day and Kennedy and Watson had a touch of snow-blindness. + </p> + <p> + Two weeks went by and there was no sign of the western depot party. In + fact, out of sixteen days, there were thirteen of thick drift and high + wind, so that our sympathies went out to the men in tents with soaking + bags, waiting patiently for a rift in the driving wall of snow. On October + 23 they had been away for four weeks; provisions for that time having been + taken. I had no doubt that they would be on reduced rations, and, if the + worst came, they could eat the dogs. + </p> + <p> + During a lull on October 24, I went to the masthead with the field-glasses + but saw nothing of the party. On that day we weighed out provisions and + made ready to go in search of them. It was my intention to go on the + outward track for a week. I wrote instructions to Jones to hoist a large + flag on the mast, and to burn flares each night at 10 P.M. if he should + return while I was away. + </p> + <p> + There was a fresh gale with blinding drift early on the following morning; + so we postponed the start. At 4 P.M. the wind subsided to a strong breeze + and I again went up the mast to sweep the horizon. Westward from an icy + cape to the south a gale was still blowing and a heavy cloud of drift, + fifty to sixty feet high, obscured everything. + </p> + <p> + An hour later Watson saw three Adelie penguins approaching across the floe + and we went down to meet them, bringing them in for the larder. Four + Antarctic petrels flew above our heads: a sign of returning summer which + was very cheering. + </p> + <p> + The previous night had promised a fine day and we were not disappointed on + October 26. A sledge was packed with fourteen days' provisions for eight + men and we started away on a search expedition at 10 A.M. + </p> + <p> + After doing a little over nine miles we camped at 5.30 P.M. Before + retiring to bag, I had a last look round and was delighted to see Jones + and his party about a mile to the south. It was now getting dark and we + were within two hundred yards of them before being seen, and, as they were + to windward, they could not hear our shouts. It was splendid to find them + all looking well. They were anxious to get back to "The Grottoes," + considering there was only one serviceable tent between them. Kennedy and + I offered to change with any of them but, being too eager for warm + blankets and a good bed, they trudged on, arriving at the Base at + midnight. + </p> + <p> + Briefly told, their story was that they were stopped in their westerly + march, when forty-five miles had been covered, by a badly broken glacier—Helen + Glacier—on the far side of which there was open sea. There was only + one thing to do and that was to set out for the mainland by a course so + circuitous that they were brought a long way eastward, back towards "The + Grottoes." They had very rough travelling, bad weather, and were beset + with many difficulties in mounting on to the land-ice, where the depot had + to be placed. Their distance from the Base at this point was only + twenty-eight miles and the altitude was one thousand feet above sea-level. + On the ice-cap they were delayed by a blizzard and for seventeen days—an + unexampled time—they were unable to move from camp. One tent + collapsed and the occupants, Jones, Dovers and Hoadley, had to dig a hole + in the snow and lower the tent into it. + </p> + <p> + These are a few snatches from Jones's diary: + </p> + <p> + "The next sixteen days (following Wednesday, October 9) were spent at this + camp.... Harrisson and Moyes occupied one tent and Dovers, Hoadley and + myself the other. + </p> + <p> + "On Saturday, the third day of the blizzard, the wind which had been + blowing steadily from the east-south-east veered almost to east and the + tents commenced to flog terrifically. This change must have occurred early + in the night, for we awoke at 5 A.M. to find clouds of snow blowing under + the skirt on one side: the heavy pile on the flounce having been cut away + by the wind. As it would have been impossible to do anything outside, we + pulled the tent poles together and allowed the tent to collapse. The rest + of the day was spent in confined quarters, eating dry rations and melting + snow in our mugs by the warmth of our bodies.... Although Harrisson and + Moyes were no more than twenty feet from us, the noise of the gale and the + flogging of our tents rendered communication impossible. + </p> + <p> + "The terrible flapping at last caused one of the seams of our tent to + tear; we sewed it as well as we were able and hoped that it would hold + till daylight. + </p> + <p> + "On Monday morning, the same seam again parted and we decided to let the + tent down again, spending the day in a half-reclining position.... + </p> + <p> + "At 6.30 P.M. the gale eased and, during a comparative lull, Moyes came + out to feed the dogs. Noticing our position, he helped us to re-erect the + tent and Dovers then went out and piled snow over the torn seam. Moyes + said that Harrisson and he had been fairly comfortable, although the cap + of their tent was slowly tearing with the pressure of the wind and snow on + the weather panels.... + </p> + <p> + "On Friday, the 18th, Swiss, one of the dogs, returned very thin after six + days' absence from the camp. + </p> + <p> + "On the following Monday the blizzard moderated somewhat and we proceeded + to make our quarters more roomy by digging out the floor and undercutting + the sides, thus lowering the level about eighteen inches. + </p> + <p> + "Our tent now looks as if it were half blown over. To relieve the + tremendous strain on the cap, we lowered the feet of the two lee poles on + to the new floor. The tent now offered very little resistance to the wind. + We were able to communicate with Harrisson and Moyes and they said they + were all right." + </p> + <p> + When the snow and wind at last held up, they immediately made down to the + sea-ice and back towards home, and, when they met us, had done nineteen + miles. All were stiff next day, and no wonder; a march of twenty-eight + miles after lying low for seventeen days is a very strenuous day's work. + </p> + <p> + Preparations were made on October 28 for the main eastern summer journey, + the object of which was to survey as much coast-line as possible and at + the same time to carry on geological work, surveying and magnetics. The + party was to consist of Kennedy, Watson and myself. + </p> + <p> + Jones, Dovers and Hoadley were to start on the main western journey on + November 2. I arranged that Harrisson and Moyes should remain at the Hut, + the latter to carry on meteorological work, and Harrisson biology and + sketching. Later, Harrisson proposed to accompany me as far as the Hippo + depot, bringing the dogs and providing a supporting party. At first I did + not like the idea, as he would have to travel one hundred miles alone, but + he showed me that he could erect a tent by himself and, as summer and + better weather were in sight, I agreed that he should come. + </p> + <p> + Each party was taking fourteen weeks' provisions, and I had an additional + four weeks' supply for Harrisson and the dogs. My total load came to nine + hundred and seventy pounds; the dogs pulling four hundred pounds with the + assistance of one man and three of us dragging five hundred and seventy + pounds. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI THE WESTERN BASE—BLOCKED ON THE SHELF-ICE + </h2> + <h3> + by F. Wild + </h3> + <p> + We started away on the main eastern journey with a spurt of eleven miles + on a calm and cloudless day, intending to follow our former track over the + shelf-ice to the Hippo Nunatak. The surface varied; soft patches putting a + steady brake on the ardour of the first, fresh hours of marching. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon, it was only necessary to wear a shirt, singlet, heavy + pyjama trousers, finnesko and socks, and even then one perspired freely. + The temperature stood at 17 degrees F. The dogs pulled their load well, + requiring help only over loose snow. + </p> + <p> + The evening of Friday November 1, 1912, saw us past Masson Island and + about ten miles from the mainland. All day there had been a chill easterly + breeze, the temperature being well below zero. The sky was hazy with + cirro-stratus and a fine halo "ringed" the sun. + </p> + <p> + Looking out from the tent in the morning we saw that the clouds were dense + and lowering, but the breezes were light and variable until 5 P.M., when + an east-north-east wind arose, bringing snow in its train. Travelling + through foggy drift, we could just ascertain that the Bay of Winds had + opened up on the right. The day's march was a good one of sixteen miles + thirty-five yards. + </p> + <p> + The Bay of Winds did not belie its name. Throughout November 3 the wind + veered about in gusts and after lunch settled down to a hard south-easter. + </p> + <p> + We had made a good start; more than sixty-two miles in a little over four + days. The camp was half-way across the Bay of Winds, with the Alligator + Nunatak six miles off on the "starboard bow" and the Rock of the + Avalanches seventeen miles straight ahead. Passing glimpses were caught of + the Hippo twenty-four miles distant. + </p> + <p> + On November 5, after a day's blizzard, there was much accumulated snow to + shovel away from tents and sledges. Finding the hauling very arduous, we + headed in for the land to find a better surface, passing the Alligator + Nunatak close on its southern side. + </p> + <p> + At noon on the 6th, the sledges were running parallel to the Rock of the + Avalanches, three miles away, and soon afterwards we came to a large + boulder; one of four in a line from the rock-cliffs, from which they had + been evidently transported, as they were composed of the same gneiss. + </p> + <p> + The Hippo was close at hand at four o'clock and, on nearing the shattered + ice about the depot, we released the dogs and pulled the sledge ourselves. + On being freed, they galloped over to the rock and were absent for over an + hour. When they returned, Amundsen's head was daubed with egg-yolk, as we + thought. This was most probable as scores of snow petrels were flying + about the rocks. + </p> + <p> + A nasty shock was awaiting us at the depot. The sledge, which had been + left on end, two feet buried in hard snow and with a mound six feet high + built round it, had been blown completely away. The stays, secured to + foodbags, were both broken; one food-bag weighing sixty-eight pounds + having been lifted ten feet. This was a very serious loss as the total + load to be carried now amounted to one thousand one hundred and eighty + pounds, which was too great a weight to be supported by one sledge. + </p> + <p> + It appeared, then, that the only thing to do was to include Harrisson in + the party, so that we could have his sledge. This would facilitate our + progress considerably, but against that was the fact that Moyes would be + left alone at the Base under the belief that Harrisson had perished. + </p> + <p> + A gale was blowing on the 7th, but as we were partly under the lee of the + Hippo, it was only felt in gusts. A visit was made to the Nunatak; + Harrisson to examine the birds, Watson for geology and photography, while + I climbed to the summit with the field-glasses to look for the missing + sledge. Kennedy remained at the camp to take a series of magnetic + observations. + </p> + <p> + There were hundreds of snow petrels pairing off, but no eggs were seen in + any of the nest-crevices. They were so tame that it was quite easy to + catch them, but they had a habit of ejecting their partially digested + food, a yellow oily mess, straight at one. This was the stuff we had + thought was egg-yolk on Amundsen's head the previous night. + </p> + <p> + Upon returning to camp, the search for the sledge was continued. After + prospecting with a spade in possible snow-drifts and crevasse-lids, we + walked out fanwise, in the direction of the prevailing wind, but with no + result. I decided, therefore, to take Harrisson with me. I was extremely + sorry for Moyes, but it could not be helped. + </p> + <p> + On the way back towards the land to the south, we found that the surface + had improved in the morning's gale. Camp was finally pitched on a slope + close to the high land. + </p> + <p> + The coast, from the Base to this spot—Delay Point—runs almost + due east and west and with no deep indentations except the Bay of Winds. + To the west, the slope from the inland plateau is fairly gradual and + therefore not badly broken, but still farther west it is much steeper, + coming down from two thousand feet in a very short distance, over tumbling + ice-fields and frozen cascades. Several outcrops of dark rock lay to the + east, one of them only two miles away. + </p> + <p> + The wind-velocity fluctuated between sixty and eighty miles per hour, + keeping us securely penned. Harrisson and Kennedy, after battling their + way to our tent for a meal, used the second primus and cooker, brought for + Harrisson, in their own tent. All we could do was to smoke and listen to + the fierce squalls and lashing drift. I had brought nothing to read on the + trip, making up the weight in tobacco. Watson had Palgrave's 'Golden + Lyrics', Kennedy, an engineer's hand-book, and Harrisson, a portion of the + 'Reign of Mary Tudor'. There was a tiny pack of patience cards, but they + were in the instrument-box on the sledge and none of us cared to face the + gale to get them. + </p> + <p> + The wind, on the 10th, saw fit to moderate to half a gale; the drift + creeping low and thick over the ground; the land visible above it. Donning + burberrys, we made an excursion to the rocks ahead. Two miles and a climb + of six hundred feet were rather exhausting in the strong wind. There were + about eighty acres of rock exposed on the edge of the ice-cap, mainly + composed of mica schists and some granite; the whole extensively + weathered. A line of moraine ran from the rocks away in an east-north-east + direction. + </p> + <p> + Most of the next day was broken by a heavy gale and, since the prospect + ahead was nothing but bare, rough ice, we passed the day in making + everything ready for a start and repaired a torn tent. The rent was made + by Amundsen, who dragged up the ice-axe to which he was tethered and, in + running round the tent, drove the point of the axe through it, narrowly + missing Kennedy's head inside. + </p> + <p> + Tuesday November 12 was an interesting day. The greater part of the track + was over rippled, level ice, thrown into many billows, through devious + pressure-hummocks and between the inevitable crevasses. The coast was a + kaleidoscope of sable rocks, blue cascades, and fissured ice-falls. + Fifteen miles ahead stood an island twenty miles long, rising in bare + peaks and dark knolls. This was eventually named David Island. + </p> + <p> + The dogs were working very well and, if only a little additional food + could be procured for them, I knew they could be kept alive. Zip broke + loose one night and ate one of my socks which was hanging on the sledge to + dry; it probably tasted of seal blubber from the boots. Switzerland, too, + was rather a bother, eating his harness whenever he had a chance. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th, a depot was formed, consisting of one week's provisions and + oil; the bags being buried and a mound erected with a flag on top. Kennedy + took a round of angles to determine its position. + </p> + <p> + At the end of two snowy days, after we had avoided many ugly crevasses, + our course in an east-south-east line pointed to a narrow strait between + David Island and the mainland. On the southern side of the former, there + was a heaped line of pressure-ice, caused by the flow from a narrow bay + being stopped by the Island. After lunch, on the 16th, there was an hour's + good travelling and then we suddenly pulled into a half-mile of broken + surface—the confluence of the slowly moving land-ice and of the more + rapidly moving ice from a valley on our right, from which issued Reid + Glacier. It was impossible to steer the dogs through it with a load, so we + lightened the loads on both sledges and then made several journeys + backwards and forwards over the more broken areas, allowing the dogs to + run loose. The crevasses ran tortuously in every direction and falls into + them were not uncommon. One large lid fell in just as a sledge had cleared + it, leaving a hole twelve feet wide, and at least a hundred feet deep. + Once over this zone, the sledges were worked along the slope leading to + the mainland where we were continually worried by their slipping sideways. + </p> + <p> + Ahead was a vast sea of crushed ice, tossed and piled in every direction. + On the northern horizon rose what we concluded to be a flat-topped, + castellated berg. Ten days later, it resolved itself into a tract of heavy + pressure ridges. + </p> + <p> + Camping after nine and a half miles, we were surprised, on moving east in + the morning, to sight clearly the point—Cape Gerlache—of a + peninsula running inland to the southwest. A glacier from the hinterland, + pushing out from its valley, had broken up the shelf-ice on which we were + travelling to such an extent that nothing without wings could cross it. + Our object was to map in the coastline as far east as possible, and the + problem, now, was whether to go north or south. From our position the + former looked the best, the tumbled shelf-ice appearing to smooth out + sufficiently, about ten miles away, to afford a passage east, while, to + the south, we scanned the Denman Glacier, as it was named, rolling in + magnificent cascades, twelve miles in breadth, from a height of more than + three thousand feet. To get round the head of this ice-stream would mean + travelling inland for at least thirty miles. + </p> + <p> + So north we went, getting back to our old surface over a heavy "cross + sea," honeycombed with pits and chasms; many of them with no visible + bottom. There was half a mile to safety, but the area had to be crossed + five times; the load on the twelve-foot sledge being so much, that half + the weight was taken off and the empty sledges brought back for the other + half. Last of all came the dogs' sledge. Kennedy remarked during the + afternoon that he felt like a fly walking on wire-netting. + </p> + <p> + The camp was pitched in a line of pressure, with wide crevasses and + "hell-holes" within a few yards on every side. Altogether the day's march + had been a miserable four miles. On several occasions, during the night, + while in this disturbed area, sounds of movement were distinctly heard; + cracks like rifle shots and others similar to distant heavy guns, + accompanied by a weird, moaning noise as of the glacier moving over rocks. + </p> + <p> + November 18 was a fine, bright day: temperature 8 degrees to 20 degrees F. + Until lunch, the course was mainly north for more than five miles. Then I + went with Watson to trace out a road through a difficult area in front. At + this point, there broke on us a most rugged and wonderful vision of + ice-scenery. + </p> + <p> + The Denman Glacier moving much more rapidly than the Shackleton Shelf, + tore through the latter and, in doing so, shattered both its own sides and + also a considerable area of the larger ice-sheet. At the actual point of + contact was what might be referred to as gigantic bergschrund: an enormous + chasm over one thousand feet wide and from three hundred feet to four + hundred feet deep, in the bottom of which crevasses appeared to go down + for ever. The sides were splintered and crumpled, glittering in the + sunlight with a million sparklets of light. Towering above were titanic + blocks of carven ice. The whole was the wildest, maddest and yet the + grandest thing imaginable. + </p> + <p> + The turmoil continued to the north, so I resolved to reconnoitre westward + and see if a passage were visible from the crest of David Island. + </p> + <p> + The excursion was postponed till next day, when Kennedy, Watson and I + roped up and commenced to thread a tangled belt of crevasses. The island + was three and a half miles from the camp, exposing a bare ridge and a + jutting bluff, nine hundred feet high—Watson Bluff. At the Bluff the + rock was almost all gneiss, very much worn by the action of ice. The face + to the summit was so steep and coarsely weathered that we took risks in + climbing it. Moss and lichens grew luxuriantly and scores of snow petrels + hovered around, but no eggs were seen. + </p> + <p> + Owing to an overcast sky, the view was not a great deal more enlightening + than that which we had had from below. The Denman Glacier swept down for + forty miles from over three thousand feet above sea-level. For twenty + miles to the east torn ice-masses lay distorted in confusion, and beyond + that, probably sixty miles distant, were several large stretches of bare + rock-like islands. + </p> + <p> + On November 20, a strong north-east wind blew, with falling snow. Nothing + could be seen but a white blanket, above, below and all around; so, with + sudden death lurking in the bottomless crevasses on every hand, we stayed + in camp. + </p> + <p> + A blizzard of great violence blew for two days and the tent occupied by + Kennedy and myself threatened to collapse. We stowed all our gear in the + sleeping-bags or in a hole from which snow had been dug for cooking. By + the second day we had become extremely tired of lying down. One + consolation was that our lips, which were very sore from exposure to the + sun and wind, had now a chance of healing. + </p> + <p> + Next afternoon, the gale moderated sufficiently for us to go once more to + David Island, in clearer weather, to see the outlook from the bluff. This + time the sun was shining on the mainland and on the extension of the + glacier past the bluff to the north. The distant southern slopes were + seamed with a pattern of crevasses up to a height of three thousand feet. + To the north, although the way was certainly impassable for twelve miles, + it appeared to become smoother beyond that limit. We decided to try and + cross in that direction. + </p> + <p> + We persevered on the 24th over many lines of pressure-ice and then camped + near an especially rough patch. Watson had the worst fall on that day, + going down ten feet vertically into a crevasse before his harness stopped + him. After supper, we went to locate a trail ahead, and were greatly + surprised to find salt water in some of the cracks. It meant that in two + days our descent had been considerable, since the great bergschrund + farther south was well over three hundred feet in depth and no water had + appeared in its depths. + </p> + <p> + A few extracts from the diary recall a situation which daily became more + serious and involved: + </p> + <p> + "Monday, November 25. A beautiful day so far as the weather and scenery + are concerned but a very hard one. We have been amongst 'Pressure,' with a + capital P, all day, hauling up and lowering the sledges with an alpine + rope and twisting and turning in all directions, with waves and hills, + monuments, statues, and fairy palaces all around us, from a few feet to + over three hundred feet in height. It is impossible to see more than a few + hundred yards ahead at any time, so we go on for a bit, then climb a peak + or mound, choose a route and struggle on for another short stage. + </p> + <p> + "We have all suffered from the sun to-day; Kennedy has caught it worst, + his lips, cheeks, nose and forehead are all blistered. He has auburn hair + and the tender skin which frequently goes with it.... + </p> + <p> + "Tuesday, November 26. Another very hard day's work. The first half-mile + took three hours to cover; in several places we had to cut roads with + ice-axes and shovels and also to build a bridge across a water-lead. At 1 + P.M. we had done just one mile. I never saw or dreamt of anything so + gloriously beautiful as some of the stuff we have come through this + morning. After lunch the country changed entirely. In place of the + confused jumble and crush we have had, we got on to neve slopes; huge + billows, half a mile to a mile from crest to crest, meshed with + crevasses... + </p> + <p> + "We all had falls into these during the day: Harrisson dropping fifteen + feet. I received rather a nasty squeeze through falling into a hole whilst + going downhill, the sledge running on to me before I could get clear, and + pinning me down. So far as we can see, the same kind of country continues, + and one cannot help thinking about having to return through this infernal + mess. The day's distance—only one thousand and fifty yards. + </p> + <p> + "Wednesday, November 27. When I wrote last night about coming back, I + little thought it would be so soon. We turn back to-morrow for the simple + reason that we cannot go on any farther. + </p> + <p> + "In the morning, for nearly a mile along a valley running south-east, the + travelling was almost good; then our troubles commenced again. + </p> + <p> + "Several times we had to resort to hand-hauling with the alpine rope + through acres of pitfalls. The bridges of those which were covered were + generally very rotten, except the wide ones. Just before lunch we had a + very stiff uphill pull and then a drop into a large basin, three-quarters + of a mile in diameter. + </p> + <p> + "The afternoon was spent in vain searching for a road.... On every side + are huge waves split in every direction by crevasses up to two hundred + feet in width. The general trend of the main crevasses is north and + south.... + </p> + <p> + "I have, therefore, decided to go back and if possible follow the road we + came by, then proceed south on to the inland ice-cap and find out the + source of this chaos. If we are able to get round it and proceed east, so + much the better; but at any rate, we shall be doing something and getting + somewhere. We could push through farther east from here, but it would be + by lowering the gear piecemeal into chasms fifty to one hundred feet deep, + and hauling it up on the other side; each crevasse taking at least two + hours to negotiate. For such slow progress I don't feel justified in + risking the lives of the party." + </p> + <p> + Snow fell for four days, at times thickly, unaccompanied by wind. It was + useless to stir in our precarious position. Being a little in hand in the + ration of biscuits, we fed the dogs on our food, their own having run out. + I was anxious to keep them alive until we were out of the pressure-ice. + </p> + <p> + From this, our turning-point out on the shelf-ice, the trail lay over + eighteen inches of soft snow on December 3, our former tracks, of course, + having been entirely obliterated. The bridged crevasses were now entirely + hidden and many weak lids were found. + </p> + <p> + At 9 A.M. Harrisson, Watson and I roped up to mark a course over a very + bad place, leaving Kennedy with the dogs. We had only gone about one + hundred yards when I got a very heavy jerk on the rope and, on looking + round, found that Watson had disappeared. He weighs two hundred pounds in + his clothes and the crevasse into which he had fallen was fifteen feet + wide. He had broken through on the far side and the rope, cutting through + the bridge, stopped in the middle so that he could not reach the sides to + help himself in any way. Kennedy brought another rope over and threw it + down to Watson and we were then able to haul him up, but it was twenty + minutes before he was out. He reappeared smiling, and, except for a bruise + on the shin and the loss of a glove, was no worse for the fall. + </p> + <p> + At 2.30 P.M. we were all dead-beat, camping with one mile one thousand + seven hundred yards on the meter. One-third of this distance was relay + work and, in several places, standing pulls with the alpine rope. The + course was a series of Z's, S's, and hairpin turns, the longest straight + stretch one hundred and fifty yards, and the whole knee-deep in soft snow, + the sledges sinking to the cross-bars. + </p> + <p> + The 4th was a repetition of the previous day—a terribly hard two and + a half miles. We all had "hangman's drops" into crevasses. One + snow-bridge, ten feet wide, fell in as the meter following the twelve-foot + sledge was going over behind it. + </p> + <p> + The 5th was a day of wind, scurrying snow and bad light. Harrisson went + out to feed the dogs in the morning and broke through the lid of a + crevasse, but fortunately caught the side and climbed out. + </p> + <p> + The diary again: + </p> + <p> + "Friday, December 6. Still bad light and a little snowfall, but we were + off at ten o'clock. I was leading and fell into at least a dozen + crevasses, but had to be hauled out of one only. At 1.30 P.M. we arrived + at the open lead we had crossed on the outward journey and found the same + place. There had been much movement since then and we had to make a + bridge, cutting away projections in some places and filling up the + sea-water channels with snow and ice. Then Harrisson crossed with the aid + of two bamboo poles, and hauled me over on a sledge. Harrisson and I on + one side and Kennedy and Watson on the other then hauled the sledges + backwards and forwards, lightly loaded one way and empty the other, until + all was across. The shelf-ice is without doubt afloat, if the presence of + sea-water and diatomaceous stains on the ice is of any account. We camped + to-night in the same place as on the evening of November 25, so with luck + we should be out of this mess to-morrow. Switzerland had to be killed as I + cannot afford any more biscuit. Amundsen ate his flesh without hesitation, + but Zip refused it." + </p> + <p> + Sure enough, two days sufficed to bring us under the bluff on David + Island. As the tents were being pitched, a skua gull flew down. I snared + him with a line, using dog's flesh for bait and we had stewed skua for + dinner. It was excellent. + </p> + <p> + While I was cooking the others climbed up the rocks and brought back eight + snow petrels and five eggs, with the news that many more birds were + nesting. After supper we all went out and secured sixty eggs and + fifty-eight birds. It seemed a fearful crime to kill these beautiful, pure + white creatures, but it meant fourteen days' life for the dogs end longer + marches for us. + </p> + <p> + Fresh breeze, light snow and a bad light on the 9th; we remained in camp. + Two more skuas were snared for the evening's dinner. The snow petrels' + eggs were almost as large as hens' eggs and very good to eat when fresh. + Many of them had been under the birds rather too long, but although they + did not look so nice, there was little difference in the taste. I was very + glad to get this fresh food, as we had lived on tinned meat most of the + year and there was always the danger of scurvy. + </p> + <p> + The light was too changeable to make a satisfactory start until the + evening of December 11, when we managed to dodge through four and a half + miles of broken ice, reaching the mainland close to our position on + November 16, and camping for lunch at midnight. In front was a clear mile + on a peninsula and then the way led across Robinson Bay, seven miles wide, + fed by the Northcliffe Glacier. + </p> + <p> + Another night march was commenced at 8 P.M. The day had been cloudless and + the sun very warm, softening the surface, but at the time of starting it + was hardening rapidly. Crossing the peninsula we resolved to head across + Robinson Bay as the glacier's surface was still torn up. We ended with a + fine march of twelve miles one thousand two hundred yards. + </p> + <p> + The fine weather continued and we managed to cross three and a half miles + of heavy sastrugi, pressure-ridges and crevasses, attaining the first + slopes of the mainland at 10 P.M. on December 14. The discovery of two + nunataks springing out of the piedmont glacier to the south, lured us on. + </p> + <p> + The first rock—Possession Nunataks—loomed ahead, two hundred + feet above, up a slope of half a mile. Here a depot of provisions and + spare gear was made, sufficient to take us back to the Hippo. The rock was + found by Watson to be gneiss, rich in mica, felspar and garnets. We + lunched in this place and resumed our march at midnight. + </p> + <p> + The second nunatak was on the course; a sharp peak in the south, hidden by + the contour of the uprising ridges. In four miles we steadily ascended + eight hundred feet. While we were engaged pitching camp, a Cape pigeon + flew overhead. + </p> + <p> + There were advantages in travelling at night. The surface was firmer, our + eyes were relieved from the intense glare and our faces no longer + blistered. On the other hand, there were disadvantages. The skirt of the + tent used to get very wet through the snow thawing on it in the midday + sun, and froze solid when packed up; the floor-cloths and sleeping-bags, + also, never had a chance of drying and set to the same icy hardness. When + we had mounted higher I intended to return to work by day. + </p> + <p> + It was not till the altitude was three thousand feet that we came in sight + of the far peak to the south. We were then pulling again in daylight. The + ice-falls of the Denman Glacier on the left were still seen descending + from the plateau, while down on the plain we saw that the zone of + disrupted ice, into which the short and intricate track of our northern + attempt had been won, extended for quite thirty miles. + </p> + <p> + The surface then softened in a most amazing fashion and hauling became a + slow, dogged strain with frequent spells. A little over four miles was the + most we could do on the 18th, and on the 19th the loads were dragging in a + deluge of dry, flour-like snow. A long halt was made at lunch to repair a + badly torn tent. + </p> + <p> + The peak ahead was named Mount Barr-Smith. It was fronted by a steep rise + which we determined to climb next day. On the eastern margin of the Denman + Glacier were several nunataks and higher, rising ground. + </p> + <p> + Following a twenty-four hours' blizzard, the sky was overcast, with the + usual dim light filtering through a mist of snow. We set off to scale the + mountain, taking the dip-circle with us. The horizon was so obscured that + it was useless to take a round of angles. Fifteen miles south of Mount + Barr-Smith, and a little higher there was another peak, to be subsequently + called Mount Strathcona; also several intervening outcrops. Not a distinct + range of mountains as we had hoped. The Denman Glacier sweeps round these + projecting rocks from the south-west, and the general flow of the + ice-sheet is thereby concentrated within the neck bounded by the two peaks + and the higher land to the east. Propelled by the immense forces of the + hinterland, this stream of ice is squeezed down through a steep valley at + an accelerated speed, and, meeting the slower moving Shackleton Shelf, + rends it from top to bottom and presses onward. Thus chaos, icequake, and + ruin. + </p> + <p> + Our tramp to Mount Barr-Smith was through eighteen inches of soft snow, in + many places a full two feet deep. Hard enough for walking, we knew from + experience what it was like for sledging. There was only sufficient food + for another week and the surface was so abominably heavy that in that + time, not allowing for blizzards, it would have been impossible to travel + as far as we could see from the summit of Mount Barr-Smith, while four + miles a day was the most that could have been done. Our attempt to make + east by rounding the Denman Glacier to the south had been foiled, but by + turning back at that point, we stood a chance of saving our two remaining + dogs, who had worked so well that they really deserved to live. + </p> + <p> + Sunday December 22 broke with a fresh breeze and surface drift; overhead a + clear sky. We went back to Mount Barr-Smith, Kennedy taking an observation + for latitude, Watson making a geological survey and collecting specimens, + Harrisson sketching. The rocks at the summit were granites, gneisses and + schists. The latitude worked out at 67 degrees 10.4' S., and we were a + little more than one hundred and twenty miles in an air-line from the hut. + </p> + <p> + In the next two days, downhill, we "bullocked" through eleven miles, + reaching a point where the depot at Possession Nunataks was only sixteen + miles away. The surface snow was very sticky in places, clogging the + runners badly, so that they had to be scraped every half-mile. Stewed skua + was the feature of our Christmas Eve supper. + </p> + <p> + From the diary: + </p> + <p> + "Christmas Day, Wednesday. Turned out and got away at 8 A.M., doing nine + miles before lunch down a steep descent. The sun was very hot, and after + lunch the surface became sticky, but at 5 P.M. we reached the depot, + having done fifteen miles one hundred yards and descended two thousand + three hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + "I am afraid I shall have to go back to travelling by night, as the snow + is so very soft down here during the day; not soft in the same way as the + freshly fallen powdery stuff we had on the hills, but half-thawed and wet, + freezing at night into a splendid surface for the runners. The shade + temperature at 5.30 P.M. to-day was 29 degrees F., and a thermometer laid + in the sun on the dark rocks went up to 87 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + "Some time ago, a plum-pudding was found in one of our food-bags, put + there, I believe, by Moyes. We ate it to-night in addition to the ordinary + ration, and, with a small taste of spirits from the medical store, managed + to get up quite a festive feeling. After dinner the Union Jack and + Australian Ensign were hoisted on the rocks and I formally took possession + of the land in the name of the Expedition, for King George V. and the + Australian Commonwealth." + </p> + <p> + Queen Mary Land is the name which, by gracious sanction, was eventually + affixed to that area of new land. + </p> + <p> + Night marches commenced at 1 A.M. on December 27. The sail was hoisted for + the first time and the fresh breeze was of great assistance. We were once + more down on the low peninsula and on its highest point, two hundred feet + above the shelf-ice, Kennedy took a round of angles. + </p> + <p> + Along the margin of the shelf the crevasses were innumerable and, as the + sun was hot and the snow soft and mushy, we pitched camp about six miles + from the bluff on David Island. + </p> + <p> + At 6 A.M. on the 28th we rounded the bluff and camped under its leeward + face. After lunch there was a hunt for snow petrels. Fifty-six were caught + and the eggs, which all contained chicks, were given to the dogs. + </p> + <p> + It was my intention to touch at all the rocks on the mainland on the way + home, as time and weather permitted. Under a light easterly breeze we + scudded along with sail set and passed close to several outcrops. Watson + examined them, finding gneiss and granite principally, one type being an + exceptionally coarse granite, very much weathered. A mile of bad crevasses + caused some delay; one of the dogs having a fall of twelve feet into one + abyss. + </p> + <p> + Next day, the Hippo hove in sight and we found the depoted food in good + condition. The course had been over high pressure-waves and in some places + we had to diverge on account of crevasses and—fresh water! Many of + the hollows contained water from thawed snow, and in others there was a + treacherous crust which hid a slushy pool. The march of eighteen miles + landed us just north of the Avalanche Rocks. + </p> + <p> + While we were erecting the tents there were several snow-slips, and + Watson, Kennedy and I walked landwards after supper to try for a "snap" of + one in the act of falling, but they refused to oblige us. It was found + that one or more avalanches had thrown blocks of ice, weighing at least + twenty tons, two hundred yards past the hole in which we spent five days + on the depot journey. They had, therefore, travelled six hundred yards + from the cliff. + </p> + <p> + The Alligator Nunatak was explored on January 2, 1913. It was found to be + half a mile long, four hundred feet high and four hundred and fifty feet + in width, and, like most of the rock we had seen, mainly gneiss. + </p> + <p> + There was half a gale blowing on the 4th and though the wind was abeam, + the sail was reefed and we moved quickly. The dogs ran loose, their feet + being very sore from pulling on rough, nobbly ice. The day's run was the + record up to that time—twenty-two miles. Our camp was in the + vicinity of two small nunataks discovered in August 1912. We reckoned to + be at the Base in two days and wondered how poor Moyes was faring. + </p> + <p> + Early on the 5th, the last piece of broken country fell behind, and one + sledge being rigged with full sail, the second sledge was taken in tow. + Both dogs had bleeding feet and were released, running alongside. During + the halt for lunch a sail was raised on the dogs' sledge, using tent poles + as a mast, a floor-cloth for a sail, an ice-axe for an upper yard and a + bamboo for a lower yard. Getting under way we found that the lighter + sledge overran ours; so we cast off and Harrisson took the light sledge, + the sail working so well that he rode on top of the load most of the time. + Later in the afternoon the wind increased so much that the dogs' sledge + was dismasted and taken in tow once more, the sail on the forward sledge + being ample for our purpose. + </p> + <p> + At 4 P.M. we had done twenty miles, and, everybody feeling fresh, I + decided to try and reach "The Grottoes," fifteen miles away. The wind + increasing to a gale with hurtling drift, the sail was reefed, and even + then was more than enough to push along both sledges. Two of us made fast + behind and maintained a continual brake to stop them running away. At 9 + P.M. the gale became so strong that we struck sail and camped. Altogether, + the day's run was thirty-five miles. + </p> + <p> + An hour's march next morning, and, through the glasses, we saw the mast + and soon afterwards the hut. Just before reaching home, we struck up a + song, and in a few seconds Moyes came running out. When he saw there were + four of us, he stood on his head. + </p> + <p> + As we expected, Moyes had never thought of Harrisson coming with me and + had quite given him up as dead. When a month had elapsed—the time + for which Harrisson had food—Moyes packed a sledge with provisions + for Harrisson, himself and the dogs and went out for six days. Then, + recognizing the futility of searching for any one in that white waste of + nothingness, he returned. He looked well, after his lonely nine weeks, but + said that it was the worst time he had ever had in his life. Moyes + reported that the Western party were delayed in starting by bad weather + until November 7. + </p> + <p> + The total distance sledged during our main summer eastern journey was two + hundred and thirty-seven miles, including thirty-two of relay work, but + none of the many reconnoitring miles. Out of seventy days, there were + twenty-eight on which the weather was adverse. On the spring depot journey + the travelling had been so easy that I fully expected to go four hundred + or five hundred miles eastward in the summer. It was therefore, a great + disappointment to be blocked as we were. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII THE WESTERN BASE—LINKING UP WITH KAISER WILHELM II LAND + </h2> + <h3> + by Dr. S. E. Jones + </h3> + <p> + On our return from the Western Depot journey towards the end of October + 1912, we found preparations completed for the long western trip, towards + Gaussberg in Kaiser Wilhelm II Land, which was discovered by the German + Antarctic Expedition of 1902. The departure was delayed for several days, + but came at last on November 7, Moyes bidding us adieu and wishing us good + luck. + </p> + <p> + The party consisted of Dovers (surveyor), Hoadley (geologist), and myself + (surgeon). We were hauling one sledge with rations for nine weeks. Our + course, which was almost due south lay over the glacier shelf practically + parallel to the sea-cliffs. The surface was good, and we covered eleven + miles by nightfall, reaching a point some two or three miles from the + rising land slopes. As the high land was approached closer, the surface of + the glacier-shelf, which farther north was practically level, became + undulating and broken by pressure-ridges and crevasses. These, however, + offered no obstacle to sledging. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding in the morning and finding that an ascent of the slopes ahead + was rendered impracticable by wide patches of ice, we turned more to the + west and steered for Junction Corner. Upon our arrival there, it was + discovered that several bergs lay frozen within the floe close to where + the seaward wall of the glacier-shelf joined that of the land ice-sheet. + Some of these bergs were old and rotten, but one seemed to have broken + away quite recently. + </p> + <p> + From the same place we could see several black points ahead; our course + was altered towards them, almost due westward, about halt a mile from the + sea-cliffs. They proved to be rocks, six in number, forming a moraine. As + it was then half-past five, we camped in order that Hoadley might examine + them. There had been a halo visible all day, with mock suns in the + evening. + </p> + <p> + In the morning a high wind was blowing. Everything went well for a little + over a mile, when we found ourselves running across a steep slope. The + wind having increased and being abeam, the sledge was driven to leeward + when on a smooth surface, and when amongst soft sastrugi, which occurred + in patches, was capsized. Accordingly camp was pitched. + </p> + <p> + The next day being less boisterous, a start was made at 9 A.M. There was + still a strong beam wind, however, which carried the sledge downhill, with + the result that for one forward step two had to be taken to the right. We + were more fortunate in the afternoon and reached the depot laid on the + earlier journey at 5.30 A.M. From this position we had a fine view of the + Helen Glacier running out of a bay which opened up ahead. + </p> + <p> + Having picked up the depot next morning, we were disappointed to find that + we should have to commence relay work. There were then two sledges with + rations for thirteen weeks; the total weight amounting to one thousand two + hundred pounds. By making an even division between the two sledges the + work was rendered easy but slow. When we camped at 6 P.M., five and a half + miles had been covered. The surface was good, but a strong beam wind + hindered us while approaching the head of Depot Bay. The ice-cap to the + west appeared to be very broken, and it seemed inevitable that we should + have to ascend to a considerable altitude towards the south-west to find a + good travelling surface. + </p> + <p> + In the morning we were delayed by heavy wind, but left camp at ten o'clock + after spending an hour digging out the sledges and tent. At lunch time the + sun became quite obscured and each of us had many falls stumbling over the + invisible sastrugi. At five o'clock the weather became so thick that camp + was pitched. Hoadley complained of snow-blindness and all were suffering + with cracked lips; there was consequently a big demand for hazeline cream + in the evening. + </p> + <p> + On Wednesday November 13, we started early, and, finding a good firm track + over a gently rising plateau, made fair progress. At three o'clock a gale + sprang up suddenly; and fortunately the sledges were only a quarter of a + mile apart as we were relaying them in stages up the rising plateau. The + tent was pitched hurriedly, though with difficulty, on account of the high + wind and drift. The distance for the day was four miles one thousand five + hundred yards, the last mile and a half being downhill into a valley at + the head of the bay. The morainic boulders visible from the camp at the + depot were now obscured behind a point to the west of Depot Bay. + </p> + <p> + The next sixty hours were spent in sleeping-bags, a heavy snowstorm making + it impossible to move. Owing to the comparatively high temperature, 20 + degrees to 26 degrees F., the snow melted readily on the lee side of the + tent, and, the water running through, things became uncomfortably wet + inside. At midday of the 16th, however, we were able to go out, and, after + spending two and a half hours digging out the tent and sledges, we made a + start, travelling two and three-quarter miles on a south-westerly course. + </p> + <p> + During the morning of the 17th a slight descent was negotiated, but in the + afternoon came the ascent of the slopes on the western side of Depot Bay. + The ice-cap here was very badly crevassed, and spiked boots had to be worn + in hauling the sledges up the steep neve slopes. In the latter part of the + afternoon a course was made more to the west, and about the same time the + south-east wind freshened and we travelled for a couple of hours through + thick drift. The night's camp was situated approximately at the eastern + edge of the Helen Glacier. The portion of the ice-cap which contributes to + the glacier below is marked off from the general icy surface on either + side by a series of falls and cascades. These appeared quite impassable + near sea-level, but we hoped to find a smooth passage at an altitude of + about one thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + A start was made at 7 A.M. The surface consisted of ice and neve and was + badly broken by pressure-mounds, ten to twenty feet high, and by numerous + crevasses old and recent; many with sunken or fallen bridges. While + crossing a narrow crevasse, about forty feet of the bridge collapsed + lengthwise under the leading man, letting him fall to the full extent of + his harness rope. Hoadley and myself had passed over the same spot, + unsuspecting and unroped, a few minutes previously, while looking for a + safe track. We were now nearing the approximate western edge of the Helen + Glacier, and the broken condition of the ice evidently indicated + considerable movement. Later in the morning a more southerly course was + kept over an improving surface. + </p> + <p> + At midday Dovers took observations of the sun and found the latitude to be + 66 degrees 47' S. Owing to the heat of the sun the fat in the pemmican had + been melting in the food-bags, so after lunch the provisions were repacked + and the pemmican was put in the centre of the large tanks. In the + afternoon we hoisted the sail, and by evening had done four miles. From + our camp the eye could range across the Helen Glacier eastward to the + shelf-ice of "The Grottoes." Far away in the north-west was a wide expanse + of open water, while a multitude of bergs lay scattered along the coast to + the west of the Helen Glacier. + </p> + <p> + The next day was gloriously bright, with a breeze just strong enough to + make hauling pleasant. Erecting a sail, we made an attempt to haul both + sledges, but found that they were too heavy. It was soon discovered that a + considerable detour would have to be made to cross the broken ice on the + western edge of the Helen Glacier. By keeping to the saddles and valleys + as much as possible and working to the south, we were able to avoid the + rougher country, but at 4 P.M. we arrived at what at first appeared an + impasse. + </p> + <p> + At this point three great crevassed ridges united to form the ice-falls on + the western side of the glacier. The point of confluence was the only + place that appeared to offer any hope of a passage, and, as we did not + want to retrace our steps, we decided to attempt it. The whole surface was + a network of huge crevasses, some open, the majority from fifty to one + hundred feet or more in width. After many devious turns, a patch of snow + between two large abysses was reached. As the ice in front seemed even + more broken than that behind, camp was pitched. After tea a search was + made for a way out, and it was found that by travelling along a narrow, + knife-edge ridge of ice and neve, with an open crevasse on each side, a + good surface could be reached within a mile of the camp. This ridge had a + gradient of one in ten, and, unfortunately, also sloped down towards one + of the open crevasses. + </p> + <p> + During the next four days a heavy blizzard raged. There was a tremendous + snowfall accompanied by a gale of wind, and, after the second day, the + snow was piled four feet high round the tent, completely burying the + sledges and by its pressure greatly reducing the space inside the tent. On + the 23rd, the fourth day, we dug out the floor, lowering the level of the + tent about two feet, and this made things more comfortable. While digging, + a crack in the ice was disclosed running across the floor, and from this + came a considerable draught. By midday the weather had improved + sufficiently to allow us to move. + </p> + <p> + The sledge and tent were excavated from beneath a great mass of soft snow; + the new level of the snow's surface being four to five feet above that on + which the camp had been made four days earlier. The wind having fallen, we + went ahead with the sledges. While crossing the ridge of ice which led + into the valley below, one man hauled the sledges while the other two + prevented them from sliding sideways downhill into the open crevasse. That + afternoon we noticed very fine iridescent colouring in cirro-cumulus + clouds as they crossed the sun. + </p> + <p> + The next day gave us a pleasant surprise, there being a strong breeze dead + aft, while the travelling surface ahead looked distinctly favourable. Sail + was hoisted and the two sledges were coupled together. The course for a + short distance was downhill, and we had to run to keep up with the + sledges. The slopes on the far side of the valley we had entered on the + previous afternoon were not so formidable as they had looked, for by lunch + time six and a half miles had been covered. The surface was good, with + occasional long undulations. After lunch a turn to the north was made for + a short distance in order to come in touch with the coastline. Then the + march west was resumed by travelling parallel to the shore at a distance + of five to ten miles. At halting-time the extreme western edge of Helen + Glacier was passed, and below lay young floe-ice, studded with numerous + bergs. + </p> + <p> + In the morning, Dovers called attention to what appeared to be an + ice-covered island lying to the north-north-west, thirty to forty miles + away. We watched this carefully during the day, but found its form to be + constant. Through binoculars, icy patches and bluff points at the eastern + and western ends were distinguishable.** + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** This was examined in detail from the 'Aurora' in January 1913 and +found to be an island, which was named Drygalski Island, for it is +evidently the ice-covered "high-land" observed by Professor Drygalski +(German Expedition, 1902) from his balloon.—ED. +</pre> + <p> + As soon as camp was struck the march was resumed direct for what every one + thought was a rocky outcrop, though nearer approach proved it to be merely + the shady face of an open crevasse. The same course was maintained and the + ridge of ice that runs down to the western point of Depot Bay was soon + close at hand. From its crest we could see a group of about a dozen rocky + islands, the most distant being five miles off the coast. All were + surrounded by floe. Descending steeply from the ridge into a valley which + ran out to the sea-cliffs, we pitched camp for lunch. + </p> + <p> + The meal completed, Hoadley and I descended to the edge of the glacier in + order to see if there were a passable route to the sea-ice. Crossing wide + areas of badly crevassed ice and neve during a descent of nine hundred + feet, we reached the sea-front about one and a half miles from the camp. + Below us there was a chaos of bergs and smaller debris, resulting from the + disintegration of the land-ice, which were frozen into the floe and + connected to one another by huge ramparts of snow. Following a path + downward with great difficulty, we approached a small berg which was + discovered to be rapidly thawing under the action of the heat absorbed by + a pile of stones and mud. The trickling of the falling water made a + pleasant relief in the otherwise intense silence. As it seemed impossible + to haul sledges through this jumble of ice and snow, Hoadley suggested + that he should walk across the floe and make a brief geological + examination of at least the largest islet. I therefore returned to the + camp and helped Dovers take observations for longitude and magnetic + variation. + </p> + <p> + Hoadley returned at 9 P.M. and reported that he had seen an immense + rookery of Emperor penguins near the largest islet, besides Adelie + penguins, silver-grey, Wilson and Antarctic petrels and skua gulls. He + also said that he thought it possible to take a sledge, lightly laden, + through the drifts below the brink of the glacier. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly in the morning the eleven-foot sledge was packed with + necessaries for a week's stay, although we intended to remain only for a + day in order to take photographs and search for specimens. Erecting a + depot flag to mark the big sledge, we broke camp at midday and soon + reached the sea-front. Our track then wound among the snow-drifts until it + emerged from the broken ice which was observed to border the land + ice-sheet for miles. The travelling became unexpectedly good for a time + over highly polished, green sea-ice, and thence on to snow, amid a field + of numerous small bergs. Many of these showed a marked degree of ablation, + and, in places, blocks of ice perched on eminences had weathered into most + grotesque forms. There were numerous streams of thaw-water running from + mud-covered bergs. Perspiring in the heat, we more than once stopped to + slake our thirst. + </p> + <p> + Approaching the largest rock—Haswell Island, as it was called later—we + saw more distinctly the immense numbers of Emperor penguins covering + several acres of floe. The birds extended in rows even on to the lower + slopes of several bergs. The sound of their cries coming across the ice + reminded one of the noise from a distant sports' ground during a + well-contested game. We camped at 5 P.M. on a snow-drift at the southern + end of the island. A large rookery of Adelie penguins on a long, low rock, + about a mile distant, soon made itself evident. + </p> + <p> + Although the stay was intended to occupy only about twenty-four hours, we + were compelled to remain five days on the island on account of a snowstorm + which continued for practically the whole of the time. This did not + prevent us from leaving the tent and wandering about; Hoadley keen on the + geology and Dovers surveying whenever the light was good enough. The + temperature of the rock was well above freezing-point where it was + exposed, and snow melted almost as soon as it fell. Our sleeping-bags and + gear soon became very wet, but we rejoiced in one compensation, and that + was a change in diet. It was agreed that five Adelie penguins or ten Cape + pigeons' eggs made a good tasty entree to the monotonous ration. + </p> + <p> + The camp was situated on the largest of a group of about twelve small + islets, lying within five or six miles of the coast, on the lower slopes + of which several outcrops of rock could be observed. Haswell Island was + found to be roughly diamond-shaped; three-quarters of a mile in length, + the same in width, and about three hundred feet on the highest point. It + was surrounded by one season's floe, raised in pressure-ridges on the + eastern side. On the northern, southern, and especially the eastern face, + the rock was steep; on the western aspect, there was a more gentle slope + down to the floe, the rock being almost concealed by big snow-drifts. + There were signs of previous glaciation in the form of erratics and many + examples of polishing and grooving. The rock was very rotten, and in many + places, especially about the penguin rookeries, there were collections of + soil. Two deep gorges cut through the island from north-west to + south-east, in both of which there were small ponds of fresh water. + </p> + <p> + The most marked feature was the wonderful abundance of bird life, for + almost all the birds frequenting the shores of the continent were found + nesting there. Adelie penguins were in greatest numbers. Besides the large + rookery on one of the smaller islets, there were numerous rookeries of + fifty to one hundred birds each on Haswell Island. In most cases the + penguins made their nests on the rock itself, but, failing this, had + actually settled on snow-drifts, where they presented a peculiar sight, as + the heat of their bodies having caused them to sink in the snow, their + heads alone were visible above the surface. One bird was observed carrying + an egg on the dorsal surface of his feet as the Emperor penguins do. + Feathers were scattered broadcast around each rookery. These result from + the numerous fights which occur and are also partly derived from the bare + patch of skin at the lower part of the abdomen which provides the + necessary heat for incubation when the bird is sitting. Most of the birds + had two eggs in a well-advanced stage of incubation, and it was a + difficult task to find a sufficient number fresh enough for culinary + purposes. Attached to each rookery was a pair of skua gulls, who swooped + down and quickly flew off with any eggs left for a moment untended. + </p> + <p> + The Emperor penguins had their rookery on the floe, about a mile from the + island. The birds covered four to five acres, but there were undoubted + signs that a much larger area had been occupied. We estimated the numbers + to be seven thousand five hundred, the great majority being young birds. + These were well grown, most of them standing as high as the shoulders of + the adults. They were all very fat, covered by a grey down, slightly + darker on the dorsal than on the ventral surface, with dark tails and a + black, straight beak. The eyes were surrounded by a ring of grey plumage, + and this again by a black band which extended over the skull to the root + of the beak. Thus the markings on the young do not correspond with those + of the adults. A few of the larger chicks had commenced to moult, the + change of plumage being observed on the flippers. + </p> + <p> + Daily we watched large numbers of adults departing from and returning to + the rookery. The direction in which they travelled was north, towards open + water, estimated to be twenty miles distant. Although more than once the + adults' return to the rookery was carefully noted, we never saw the young + birds being fed, old birds as they entered the rookery quietly going to + sleep. + </p> + <p> + Hoadley, on his first visit to the island, had seen Antarctic petrels + flying about, and a search revealed a large rookery of these on the + eastern side. The nesting-place of this species of petrel had never before + been discovered, and so we were all elated at the great find. About three + hundred birds were found sitting in the gullies and clefts, as close + together as they could crowd. They made no attempt to form nests, merely + laying their eggs on the shallow dirt. Each bird had one egg about the + same size as that of a domestic fowl. Incubation was far advanced, and + some difficulty was experienced in blowing the specimens with a blow-pipe + improvised from a quill. Neither the Antarctic nor any other petrels + offered any resistance when disturbed on their nests, except by the + expectoration of large quantities of a pink or green, oily fluid. + </p> + <p> + The Cape pigeons had just commenced laying when we arrived at the island. + On the first day only two eggs were found, but, on the fourth day after + our arrival, forty were collected. These birds make a small shallow nest + with chips of stone. + </p> + <p> + The silver-grey or Southern Fulmar petrels were present in large numbers, + especially about the steep north-eastern side of the island. Though they + were mated, laying had scarcely commenced, as we found only two eggs. They + made small grottoes in the snow-drifts, and many pairs were seen billing + and cooing in such shelters. + </p> + <p> + The small Wilson petrels were found living in communities under slabs of + rock, and Hoadley one afternoon thought he heard some young birds crying. + </p> + <p> + Skua gulls were present in considerable force, notably near the penguin + rookeries. They were breeding at the time, laying their eggs on the soil + near the summit of the island. The neighbourhood of a nest was always + betrayed by the behaviour of these birds who, when we intruded on them, + came swooping down as if to attack us. + </p> + <p> + Although many snow petrels were seen flying about, we found only one with + an egg. The nests were located in independent rocky niches but never in + rookeries. + </p> + <p> + Vegetable life existed in the form of algae, in the pools, lichens on + oversell rocks and mosses which grew luxuriantly, chiefly in the Adelie + penguin rookeries. + </p> + <p> + Weddell seals were plentiful about the island near the tide-cracks; two of + them with calves. + </p> + <p> + Though the continuous bad weather made photography impossible, Hoadley was + able to make a thorough geological examination of the locality. On + December 2 the clouds cleared sufficiently for photography, and after + securing some snapshots we prepared to move on the next day. Dovers built + a small cairn on the summit of the island and took angles to the outlying + rocks. + </p> + <p> + On the 3rd we packed our specimens and left for the mainland at 9.30 A.M., + arriving at the land ice-cliffs at 2 P.M. The snow surface was soft, even + slushy in places, and the heat amongst the bergs along the coast of the + mainland was very oppressive. After we had dug out the second sledge and + re-arranged the loads, the hour was too late for sledging, so Dovers took + another observation in order to obtain the rate of the half-chronometer + watch. While on the island, we had examined the coast to the west with + glasses and concluded that the only way to get westward was to ascend to a + considerable altitude on the ice-cap, which, as far as the eye could + reach, descended to the sea-level in long cascades and falls. We had + expected to place a depot somewhere near Haswell Island, but such + procedure was now deemed inadvisable in view of its distance from what + would probably be our direct return route. + </p> + <p> + A start was made next day against an opposing wind, the sledges being + relayed up a steep hillside. Later on, however, a turn was made more to + the west, and it was then possible to haul both sledges at the same time. + The surface was soft, so that after every halt the runners had to be + cleared. The distance for the day was five and a half miles, and the + night's camp was at an altitude of about one thousand five hundred feet, + located just above the broken coastal ice. + </p> + <p> + During December 5 and 6 a snowstorm raged and confined us to our tent. The + high temperature caused the falling snow to melt as it touched the tent, + and, when the temperature fell, the cloth became thickly coated with ice. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th the march was resumed, by skirting a small valley at an + approximate altitude of two thousand feet. The ice-cap ahead descended in + abrupt falls to the floe. Having a fair wind and a smooth surface, we made + good headway. In the afternoon we ran into a plexus of crevasses, and the + surface was traversed by high ridges. The snowbridges in many cases were + weak and several gave way while the sledge was crossing them. A chasm + about fifty feet deep and one hundred feet long was passed, evidently + portion of a crevasse, one side of which had been raised. Later in the + afternoon the surface became impassable and a detour to the south was + rendered necessary. This difficulty arose near the head of the valley, in + which situation the ice-cap fell in a series of precipitous terraces for + about one thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + At midday on the 8th we were compelled to continue the detour over a badly + crevassed surface, ascending most of the time. On that night, camp was + pitched again amongst crevasses. The sledge-meter showed only two miles + one thousand one hundred yards for the afternoon, relaying having been + necessary. + </p> + <p> + The sledges slipped along in the morning with a fresh breeze in their + favour. The sky was covered with rapidly scudding, cirro-cumulus clouds + which, by midday, quite obscured the sun, making surrounding objects and + even the snow at our feet indistinguishable. After continuing for four and + a half miles, we were forced to camp. In the afternoon a heavy snowstorm + commenced and persisted throughout the following day. + </p> + <p> + Though snow was still falling on the morning of the 11th, camp was broken + at 10 A.M., and we moved off rapidly with a strong wind. During the + morning the surface was gently undulating, but it mounted in a gradual + ascent until nightfall. In the latter part of the afternoon the sun was + clouded over, and steering had to be done by the aid of the wind. To the + north we had a fine view of Drygalski's "High Land" (Drygalski Island), + perceiving a distinct seaward ice-cliff of considerable height. + </p> + <p> + As there were no prominences on the ice-cap that could be used for + surveying marks, Dovers had considerable difficulty in keeping a reckoning + of our course. The trouble was overcome by building snow-mounds and taking + back-angles to them with the prismatic compass. At this juncture we were + about ten miles from the shore and could see open water some thirty miles + to the north. Frozen fast within the floe were great numbers of bergs. + </p> + <p> + We started off early on December 12 with the aid of a fair breeze over a + good surface, so that both sledges were easily hauled along together. The + course was almost due west, parallel to the coast. Open water came within + a few miles of the ice-cliffs, and, farther north, a heavy belt of pack + was observed. When the sun sank lower, the bergs on the northern horizon + were refracted up to such a degree that they appeared to be hanging from + the sky. + </p> + <p> + The aid rendered by the sail under the influence of a fair breeze was well + shown on the following day. In four hours, on a good surface, both sledges + were transported seven miles. When we moved off, the wind was blowing at + ten to fifteen miles an hour. By 10 A.M. the sky became overcast and the + wind freshened. Camp was pitched for lunch at 11 A.M., as we hoped that + the weather would clear again later, but the wind increased and snow began + to fall heavily in the afternoon, so we did not stir. The storm continued + throughout the following day and it was impossible to march until the + 15th. + </p> + <p> + Continuing the ascent on the 16th out of a valley we had crossed on the + previous day, we halted on the top of a ridge within view of German + "territory"—a small, dark object bearing due west, evidently bare + rock and presumably Gaussberg. The course was altered accordingly towards + this object and everything went smoothly for ten miles. Then followed an + area where the ice fell steeply in waves to the sea, crossed by crevasses + which averaged fifty feet in width. The snow-bridges were deeply concave, + and the lower side of each chasm was raised into a ridge five to ten feet + high. Making fast the alpine rope on to the sledges, one of us went ahead + to test the bridge, and then the sledges, one at a time, were rushed down + into the trough and up on the other side. After crossing ten or more + crevasses in this fashion, we were forced to camp by the approach of a + rapidly moving fog driven before a strong westerly wind. While camp was + being prepared, it was discovered that a tin of kerosene on the front + sledge had been punctured causing the loss of a gallon of fuel. + Fortunately, we were well within our allowance, so the accident was not + serious. Soon after tea our attention was drawn to a pattering on the tent + like rain, caused by a fall of sago snow. + </p> + <p> + In the morning the weather was clearer, and we saw that it was impossible + to reach Gaussberg by a direct route. The ice ahead was cleft and split in + all directions, and, in places, vertical faces stood up to a height of one + hundred feet. The floe was littered with hundreds of bergs, and in several + localities there were black spots which resembled small rocks, but it was + impossible to approach close enough to be certain. Retracing the way out + of the broken ice, we steered in a south-westerly direction, just above + the line of serac and crevassed ice. The coast here trended to the + south-west, forming the eastern side of Drygalski's Posadowsky Bay. The + going was heavy, the surface being covered by a layer of frost-crystals + deposited during the night. A fog came up again early in the afternoon and + had quite surrounded us at camping time. During the day there were fine + clouds of ice-crystals in the air, and at 8 P.M. a fog-bow was seen in the + east. + </p> + <p> + Turning out in the morning we saw Gaussberg peeping over a ridge to the + west, but were still prevented from steering directly towards it by the + broken surface. When we had advanced ten miles, a heavy fog brought us to + a halt at 5 P.M. + </p> + <p> + On Friday the 20th, in spite of a sticky surface, thirteen miles was + covered on a west-south-west course. The ice-cap continued to be + undulating but free of crevasses. The altitude was between two thousand + five hundred and three thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + In the morning, after travelling two miles, we came in sight of Gaussberg + again and steered directly towards it. The surface was good with a + downward grade. At five and a quarter miles a depot was made of the small + sledge and most of the food, in expectation of a clear run to the + mountain. Not far ahead, however, were two broken-backed ridges + intersecting the course, and a detour had to be made to the south to cross + them higher up. + </p> + <p> + Midsummer's day, December 22, was spent in the tent, a move being + impossible on account of the high wind. In the afternoon we walked ahead a + short distance and reconnoitred six or seven crumpled ridges. Though the + barometer had been falling ominously for twenty-four hours, the bad + weather did not continue. + </p> + <p> + Gaussberg was reached in the afternoon, after our track had passed through + seventeen miles of dangerous country. For the first few miles the surface + consisted of a series of steep, buckled ice-ridges; later, it was + snow-covered, but at times literally cut into a network of crevasses. + </p> + <p> + The only approach to Gaussberg from the plateau is from the south. To the + east and west there are magnificent ice-falls, the debris from which + litters the floe for miles around. + </p> + <p> + December 24 and Christmas Day were devoted to examining the mountain. + Dovers made a long series of observations for longitude, latitude and + magnetic variation, while Hoadley examined the rocks and took photographs. + </p> + <p> + On the southern side, the ice-cap abuts against this extinct volcano at an + elevation of about four hundred feet above sea-level; the summit of the + mountain rises another eight hundred feet. On the north, the rock descends + to the floe. Gaussberg is pyramidal in shape, falling steeply, from a + ridge at the summit. The sides are covered with a loose rubble of volcanic + fragments, square yards of which commence to slide at the slightest + disturbance. This renders climbing difficult and accounts for the large + numbers of isolated blocks fringing the base. + </p> + <p> + At the summit two cairns were found, the bamboo poles which had previously + marked them having blown over. Further examination revealed many other + bamboos which had been used as marks, but no other record of the visit of + the German expedition, ten years before, was met. Bird life was not + plentiful, being limited to a few skuas, Wilson petrels and snow petrels; + the latter nesting under slabs of rock. There were large quantities of + moss where thaw-water had been running. + </p> + <p> + The ice and snow near the mountain showed evidences of marked thawing, and + we had difficulty in finding a favourable spot for our camp. + </p> + <p> + Christmas Day was gloriously fine, with just sufficient wind to counteract + the heat of the sun. At midday the Christmas "hamper" was opened, and it + was not long before the only sign of the plum-pudding was the tin. In the + afternoon we ascended the mountain and left a record in a cairn at the + top. By the route followed, Gaussberg was two hundred and fifteen miles + from "The Grottoes" but relay work had made the actual distance covered + three hundred miles. + </p> + <p> + We had been away from home seven weeks, and, though there was sufficient + food for an outward journey of another week, there was no indication that + the country would change. Further, from the summit of Gaussberg one could + see almost as far as could be marched in a week. Accordingly it was + decided to commence our return on the 26th, making a course almost due + east, thus cutting out numerous detours which had to be taken on the + outward journey. + </p> + <p> + We left the mountain on December 26, pursuing a course to the south of our + outward track so as to avoid some crevassed ridges. Ascending steadily + against a continuous headwind, we picked up the second sledge at midday on + the 28th. + </p> + <p> + Next day all the gear was transferred to one sledge and a course made + direct to the Helen Glacier; the other sledge being abandoned. + </p> + <p> + On December 31, after a day's blizzard, the surface was found to be + covered with sastrugi of soft snow eighteen inches to two feet in depth. + In crossing a wide crevasse, the sledge became bogged in the soft snow of + a drift which had a deceptive appearance of solidity. It took us ten + minutes to extricate ourselves, and, after this, crevasses were negotiated + at a run. + </p> + <p> + A violent blizzard raged during the following day—the first of the + New Year 1913. This proved to be a blessing, for it made the surface more + crisp and firm. In the morning the sun was obscured and nothing was + visible but the snow at our feet, so that steering was very difficult. In + the afternoon the sun broke through, a strong westerly wind sprang up and + we moved along at a good pace, covering more than thirteen miles before + camping. + </p> + <p> + On January 3 the track bordered on the edge of the plateau, the surface + being almost level, rising gently towards the south. + </p> + <p> + After a violent blizzard of three days' duration, which confined us in the + tent, we continued on the same course for four days, averaging about + eleven miles each day. The surface was good, but a strong south-easter + blew practically all the time and reduced our speed considerably. + </p> + <p> + At 10 A.M. on January 9, a fog-bank was observed in the east. This rapidly + approached, and in fifteen minutes was quite close. There was now a + splendid display of rings and arcs, caused apparently by minute + ice-crystals which filled the air without obscuring the sun or sky. First + an arc of prismatic colours appeared in the east, and in a few seconds the + sky seemed literally to be covered with other arcs. At first they seemed + to be scattered indiscriminately, but after a short time several arcs + joined and we could discern a symmetrical arrangement. The sun was + surrounded by a ring, the lower portion of which was broken by an inverted + arc; two other arcs were visible on either side. A large ring appeared + encircling the zenith, intersecting the first and passing through the sun. + Two pairs of arcs were also seen, one pair in each ring. Excepting the + arcs and ring about the zenith, which was grayish-white against the blue + sky, the arcs showed prismatic colouring. The display lasted ten minutes + and ended with the disappearance of the ice-crystals. + </p> + <p> + [ILLUSTRATION IN TEXT] + </p> + <p> + The diagram shows the arrangement of the arcs: + </p> + <p> + S = Sun. Z = Zenith. + </p> + <p> + At A, B, C, mock suns could be seen. + </p> + <p> + From our camp on the night of January 10, broken country could be seen + ahead. To the north, open water was visible, and to the north-east the + Shackleton Shelf, so that we were nearing home at last. Here, a heavy + snowstorm delayed us for two and a half days, and it was not till the + afternoon of January 13 that we were able to move ahead. + </p> + <p> + The next day was dull, the sun being quite obscured; and the only check + upon the steering was the south-easterly wind. At midday the thermometer + registered 35 degrees F. in the shade, and the surface became quite + sticky. After tea we walked ahead for a couple of hundred yards to the + summit of a ridge where the full extent of the Helen Glacier was laid + before us. It was evident that our position was some miles north of the + true course, but, considering the absence of steering marks and the + constant overcast weather, we considered ourselves lucky in being so close + to it. + </p> + <p> + The bad weather continued and snow fell during the following day. On the + 16th the light was better, and we pushed into a strong wind which + freshened to the force of a moderate gale before we had travelled two + miles. Approaching a steep ascent we were compelled to camp. The morning + brought an improvement, and the crossing of the Helen Glacier was + commenced a mile or two above the outward course. + </p> + <p> + At midday on January 18, over treacherous ice, in the face of strong + winds, we were making good headway towards Junction Corner. Almost daily + for a fortnight a Wilson petrel had visited us, the only form of life seen + on the return journey. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th we were not able to move until 8.80 P.M., when the wind, which + had been blowing with the force of a gale, subsided. During the afternoon + a magnificent view of the Helen Glacier was obtained, and in the west we + could see Haswell Island and Drygalski Island. + </p> + <p> + Continuing on the same course, throughout the following day, we picked up + the hut with the binoculars at 5 P.M. There now came a quick descent to + Junction Corner. + </p> + <p> + On the lower levels there was clear evidence of thawing having occurred. + The firm surface of snow which had been present on the outward journey was + now converted into rough ice, over which we walked painfully in finnesko. + Neve and ice surfaces were covered with sharp spicules, and the sides and + bridges of crevasses were unmistakably thawed. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Junction Corner at 6 A.M., we steered a course for the hut, + running parallel to the edge of the glacier. At 3 P.M. the mast was + sighted, and, later, the hut itself. When within half a mile of "The + Grottoes" we saw three figures on the floe and guessed that the eastern + party had returned. In a few minutes greetings were heartily exchanged and + they had welcomed us home. + </p> + <p> + Instructions had been given that the Western Base should be in readiness + to embark on the 'Aurora' not later than January 30, 1913. + </p> + <p> + When Wild's party had arrived, preparations for departure were immediately + made. Geological and biological collections were packed, stores were + sorted out and cases containing personal gear were sledged to the edge of + the glacier. + </p> + <p> + Harrisson contrived a winch for sounding and fishing. Fourteen-gauge + copper wire was wound on it and, through a crack in the sea-ice a quarter + of a mile from the glacier, bottom was reached in two hundred and sixty + fathoms. As the water was too deep for dredging, Harrisson manufactured + cage-traps and secured some fish, a squid, and other specimens. + </p> + <p> + At this time there was abundant evidence of life. Skua gulls frequently + flew about the hut, as well as Cape pigeons, Antarctic, snow, Wilson, + giant and silver-grey petrels. Out on the sea-ice, there were Adelie and + Emperor penguins; the latter moulting. Hundreds of seals were seen with + glasses on the edge of the floe, ten miles to the north. + </p> + <p> + On the whole, January was a very fine month. Some of the days seemed + really hot; the shade temperature on one occasion reaching 37 degrees F., + and, in several instances, 33 degrees F. It was quite a common thing for a + man to work outside in loose, light garments; in fact, with nothing more + than a singlet on the upper part of the body. + </p> + <p> + On January 26, while Kennedy took observations, Wild and the others went + for a walk towards the open water. The surface was very rough and broken + by leads, along which Weddell seals lay in great numbers. Three miles of + ice were found to have drifted out, reducing the northern expanse to seven + miles. + </p> + <p> + In view of the possibility of the 'Aurora' not relieving them, the party + went through their food-supplies, finding that these were sufficient for + another year, with the exception of meat. With regard to coal, two tons of + briquettes remained, which, augmented by good stock of seal-blubber, would + provide sufficient fuel. + </p> + <p> + Laying in a store of seals' flesh and blubber now became the principal + work, and every fine day saw a party out with a sledge. Unfortunately, the + nearest crack on the sea-ice was nearly two miles away, so that the return + journey, with a heavily laden sledge, was long and tedious. Two holes were + dug in the glacier near the hut, one for blubber and the other for meat. + </p> + <p> + On January 31 six miles of sea-ice still remained, and, if the ship had + arrived to time, a good deal of sledging would have been required to + transport all the gear aboard. + </p> + <p> + In February, the weather altered for the worse, and there was not a single + fine day until the 20th. A strong east-southeast wind with falling snow + prevailed. As the days were shortening rapidly, all were beginning to feel + anxious about the 'Aurora'. + </p> + <p> + Wild erected a flagstaff on the highest ice-pinnacle near "The Grottoes" + and flew a large flag on it whenever the wind moderated. On the 16th, a + lamp-screen and reflector were fitted at the mast-head and each night a + hurricane lamp was placed there, which could be seen eight miles with the + naked eye. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th Dovers and Wild made a large signboard, taking it out to a + prominent point on the glacier, three and a half miles to the north. It + was lashed to a bamboo pole with a flag flying on it. The open water was + then only three miles distant. + </p> + <p> + Wild writes: + </p> + <p> + "The 22nd February was the anniversary of the day the 'Aurora' left us, + but the weather was very different. A heavy blizzard was raging, the + wind's velocity ranging up to eighty miles per hour. As it was Saturday, + we kept the usual routine, scrubbing out and cleaning up the hut. We could + not help speculating as to whether we should have to do it for another + whole year. But every one had great faith in 'good old Davis,' and nobody + was at all downhearted. + </p> + <p> + "When we 'turned out' on Sunday there was still a strong wind and drift, + but this died away to a light breeze before breakfast was over, and the + sun came out. I had a look round with the glasses and saw that the ice had + broken away beyond a limit of one and a half miles. As there was a sledge, + which Harrisson had been using for sounding, within a few yards of the + water's edge, Jones and I went off to bring it in. We had gone less than + half a mile when we saw what at first appeared to be a penguin, standing + on some pack-ice in the distance, but which we soon saw was the mast-head + of the 'Aurora'. + </p> + <p> + "It was evident that she could not be alongside for some time, so Jones + went back to the hut to tell the others to bring down a load of gear, and + I went on to meet the ship. Before the 'Aurora' had reached the fast ice, + all the party were down with two sledge loads, having covered the mile and + a half in record time. + </p> + <p> + "We were all anxious, of course, for news, and the first we received was + the sad account of the deaths of Ninnis and Mertz; then of the wonderful + march made by Dr. Mawson. + </p> + <p> + "Before closing, I should like to pay a tribute to the good-fellowship, + unfailing industry, enthusiasm and unswerving loyalty which characterized + my comrades. During the whole of the Expedition, whether carrying out + monotonous routine work at the Base or under the trying conditions of + sledging, all duties were performed with never-failing good temper and + perseverance. + </p> + <p> + "Should it ever be my lot to venture on a like expedition I hope to have + some, if not all, of the same party with me. But whether we meet again or + not, I shall always think of every man of them with the greatest affection + and respect." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII A SECOND WINTER + </h2> + <p> + During the first busy year in Adelie Land, when the Hut was full of life + and work, there were few moments for reflection. Yet, over the speculative + pipe at home after a successful day's labour on the wireless masts, or out + on the turbulent plateau when the hour of hoosh brought the strenuous day + to a close, more than one man was heard to say, "One year in this country + is enough for me." Still, in the early days, no one could predict what + would happen, and therefore a change in the perverse climate was always + considered probable. So great was the emulation, and so keen were all to + extend our geographical boundaries, that the year sped away almost before + the meagre opportunity came. With the cheery support of numbers, we did + not find it a difficult matter "to drive dull care away." + </p> + <p> + Now there were only seven of us; we knew what was ahead; the weather had + already given ample proof of the early approach of winter; the field of + work which once stretched to the west, east and south had no longer the + mystery of the "unknown"; the Ship had gone and there was scant hope of + relief in March. + </p> + <p> + Against all this. There remained the Hut—a proven shelter from the + wind; and, most vital of all, there was abundant food for another year. + Every avenue of scientific work was not yet closed. Even the routine of + meteorological and magnetic work was adding in no slight degree to the sum + of human knowledge. Our short mile of rocks still held some geological + secrets, and there were biological discoveries yet to make. A wireless + telegraphic station had at last been established, and we could confidently + expect communication with the outside world at an early date. These were + some of the obvious assurances which no one had the heart to think about + at first; and then there was always our comradeship, most enduring of all. + </p> + <p> + February, during 1912, was a tolerable month with a fair proportion of + sunny, moderately calm days. A year later, the first eight days of this + month were signalized by the blizzard in which the 'Aurora' had such a + perilous experience. While the winter began in 1912 with the advent of + March, now in 1913 it came on definitely in early February. Autumn was a + term which applied to a few brilliant days which would suddenly intervene + in the dense rack of drift-snow. + </p> + <p> + We set to work to make the Hut, if anything, safer and snugger. Bage put + finishing touches to the break-wind of rock and cases, and with Hodgeman + and McLean nailed battens of wood over a large sheet of canvas which had + been stretched across the windward side of the roof, overlapping rolls of + black paper, scraps of canvas and bagging, which were also battened down + to make the eastern and western faces more air-tight. + </p> + <p> + Before the Ship left us, the remaining coal briquettes had been dug out of + a bed of ice and carefully piled on a high point of the rocks. Round them + all the spare timber and broken cases were gathered to provide sufficient + fuel for the ensuing winter. The penguins' eggs, which had been stored in + boxes, were stacked together on the windward side of the Hut, and a choice + selection of steaks of seal and penguin for our own use were at the + storeman's disposal in the veranda. + </p> + <p> + Madigan, in addition to his meteorological duties, took charge of the new + sledging-dogs which had been presented by Captain Amundsen. A good many + seals had been already killed, and a big cache of meat and blubber was + made alongside the Hut to last throughout the winter. + </p> + <p> + Bickerton found many odd jobs to occupy his time in connexion with the + petrol-engine and the wireless installations. He was also busied with the + anemometer, which had broken down and needed a strong start for its second + year of usefulness. + </p> + <p> + Bage, following the parting instructions of Webb, became the owner of the + Magnetograph House and the Absolute Hut, continuing to keep the magnetic + records. As storeman, Bage looked after the food-supplies. The canvas + coverings had made the veranda drift-tight, so the storeman could arrange + his tins and cases on the shelves with some degree of comfort, and the + daily task of shovelling out snow was now at an end. Further, Hodgeman and + he built an annex out of spare timber to connect the entrance veranda with + the store. This replaced the old snow-tunnel which had melted away, and, + when completed and padded outside with old mattresses, was facetiously + styled the "North-West Passage." The only thing which later arose to + disturb the composure of the storeman was the admission of the dogs to a + compartment in the veranda on the eastern side. His constant care then + became a heap of mutton carcases which the dogs in passing or during the + occasional escapades from their shelter were always eager to attack. + </p> + <p> + Hodgeman helped to change the appearance of the living-hut by cutting the + table in two and, since there was now plenty of room, by putting in more + shelves for a larder on which the storeman displayed his inviting wares to + the cook, who could think of nothing original for the next meal. + </p> + <p> + McLean undertook the duties of ice-cutting and coal-carrying throughout + the year, kept the biological log and assisted in general observations. He + also sent off sealed messages in bottles, regularly, on the chance of + their being picked up on the high seas, thereby giving some indication of + the direction of currents. + </p> + <p> + Jeffryes was occupied regularly every night listening attentively for + wireless signals and calling at intervals. The continuous winds soon + caused many of the wire stays of the main wireless mast to become slack, + and these Jeffryes pulled taut on his daily rounds. + </p> + <p> + Looking back and forward, we could not but feel that the sledging + programme of the previous summer had been so comprehensive that the broad + features of the land were ascertained over a wide radius; beyond what we, + with our weakened resources of the second year, could reach. The various + observations we were carrying on were adding to the value of the + scientific results, but we could not help feeling disappointed that our + lot was not cast in a new and more clement region. + </p> + <p> + It was to be a dreary and difficult time for the five men who had + volunteered to remain behind in order to make a thorough search for myself + and comrades. They were men whom I had learned to appreciate during the + first year, and I now saw their sterling characters in a new light. To + Jeffryes all was fresh, and we envied him the novelties of a new world, + rough and inhospitable though it was. As for me, it was sufficient to feel + that + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ...He that tossed thee down into the Field, + He knows about it all—He knows, He knows. +</pre> + <p> + On the night of February 15, Jeffryes suddenly surprised us with the + exciting intelligence that he had heard Macquarie Island send a coded + weather report to Hobart. The engine was immediately set going, but though + repeated attempts were made, no answer could be elicited. Each night + darkness was more pronounced and signals became more distinct, until, on + the 20th, our call reached Sawyer at Macquarie Island, who immediately + responded by saying "Good evening." The insulation of a Leyden jar broke + down at this point, and nothing more could be done until it was remedied. + </p> + <p> + At last, on February 21, signals were exchanged, and by the 23rd a message + had been dispatched to Lord Denman, Governor-General of the Commonwealth, + acquainting him with our situation and the loss of our comrades and, + through him, one to his Majesty the King requesting his royal permission + to name a tract of newly discovered country to the east, "King George V + Land." Special messages were also sent to the relatives of Lieutenant B. + E. S. Ninnis and Dr. X. Mertz. + </p> + <p> + The first news received from the outside world was the bare statement that + Captain Scott and four of his companions had perished on their journey to + the South Pole. It was some time before we knew the tragic details which + came home, direct and poignant, to us in Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + To Professor David a fuller account of our own calamity was sent and, + following this, many kind messages of sympathy and congratulation were + received from all over the world. On February 26 Lord Denman sent an + acknowledgment of our message to him, expressing his sorrow at the loss of + our two companions; and on March 7 his Majesty the King added his gracious + sympathy, with permission to affix the name, King George V Land, to that + part of the Antarctic continent lying between Adelie Land and Oates Land. + </p> + <p> + On February 23 there was a spell of dead calm; heavy nimbus clouds and fog + lowering over sea and plateau. Fluffy grains of sago snow fell most of the + day, covering the dark rocks and the blue glacier. A heaving swell came in + from the north, and many seals landed within the boat harbour, where a + high tide lapped over the ice-foot. The bergs and islands showed pale and + shadowy as the snow ceased or the fog lifted. Then the wind arose and blew + hard from the east-south-east for a day, swinging round with added force + to its old quarter—south-by-east. + </p> + <p> + March began in earnest with much snow and monotonous days of wind. By + contrast, a few hours of sunny calm were appreciated to the full. The face + of the landscape changed; the rocky crevices filling flush with the low + mounds of snow which trailed along and off the ridges. + </p> + <p> + On March 16 every one was relieved to hear that the 'Aurora' had arrived + safely in Hobart, and that Wild and his party were all well. But the news + brought disappointment too, for we had always a lingering ray of hope that + there might be sufficient coal to bring the vessel back to Adelie Land. + Later on we learned that on account of the shortage of funds the Ship was + to be laid up at Hobart until the following summer. In the meantime, + Professors David and Masson were making every effort to raise the + necessary money. In this they were assisted by Captain Davis, who went to + London to obtain additional donations. + </p> + <p> + It was now a common thing for those of us who had gone to bed before + midnight to wake up in the morning and find that quite a budget of + wireless messages had been received. It took the place of a morning paper + and we made the most of the intelligence, discussing it from every + possible point of view. Jeffryes and Bickerton worked every night from 8 + P.M. until 1 A.M., calling at short intervals and listening attentively at + the receiver. In fact, notes were kept of the intensity of the signals, + the presence of local atmospheric electrical discharges—"static"—or + intermittent sounds due to discharges from snow particles—St. Elmo's + fire—and, lastly, of interference in the signals transmitted. The + latter phenomenon should lead to interesting deductions, for we had + frequent evidence to show that the wireless waves were greatly impeded or + completely abolished during times of auroral activity. + </p> + <p> + Listening at the wireless receiver must have been very tedious and + nerve-racking work, as so many adventitious sounds had to be neglected. + There was, first of all, the noise of the wind as it swept by the Hut; + then there was the occasional crackling of "St. Elmo's fire"; the dogs in + the veranda shelter were not always remarkable for their quietness; while + within the Hut it was impossible to avoid slight sounds which were often + sufficient to interrupt the sequence of a message. At times, when the + aurora was visible, signals would often die away, and the only alternative + was to wait until they recurred, meanwhile keeping up calls at regular + intervals in case the ether was not "blocked." So Jeffryes would sometimes + spend the whole evening trying to transmit a single message, or, + conversely, trying to receive one. By experience it was found easier to + transmit and receive wireless messages between certain hours in the + evening, while not infrequently, during the winter months, a whole week + would go by and nothing could be done. During such a period auroral + displays were usually of nightly occurrence. Then a "freak night" would + come along and business would be brisk at both terminals. + </p> + <p> + It was often possible for Jeffryes to "hear" Wellington, Sydney, Melbourne + and Hobart, and once he managed to communicate directly with the + last-named. Then there were numerous ships passing along the southern + shores of Australia or in the vicinity of New Zealand whose "calls" were + audible on "good nights." The warships were at times particularly + distinct, and occasionally the "chatter in the ether" was so confusing + that Sawyer, at Macquarie Island, would signal that he was "jammed." + </p> + <p> + The "wireless" gave us another interest in life, and plenty of outside + occupation when the stays became loose or an accident occurred. It served + to relieve some of the tedium of that second year: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Day after day the same + Only a little worse. +</pre> + <p> + On March 13 there was a tremendous fall of snow, and worst "pea-souper" we + had had during the previous year. Next day everything was deluged, and + right up the glacier there were two-foot drifts, despite a sixty-mile + wind. + </p> + <p> + It was very interesting to follow the changes which occurred from day to + day. First of all, under the flail of the incessant wind, a crust would + form on the surface of the snow of the type we knew as "piecrust," when + out sledging. It was never strong enough to bear a man, but the + sledge-runners would clear it fairly well if the load were not too heavy. + Next day the crust would be etched, and small flakes and pellets would be + carried away until the snow was like fleece. Assuming that the wind kept + up (which it always did) long, shallow concavities would now be scooped + out as the "lobules" of the fleece were carried away piecemeal. These + concavities became deeper, hour by hour and day by day, becoming at last + the troughs between the crests of the snow-waves or sastrugi. All this + time the surface would be gradually hardening and, if the sun chanced to + shine for even a few hours every day, a shining glaze would gradually form + on the long, bevelled mounds. It was never a wise thing to walk on these + polished areas in finnesko and this fact was always learnt by experience. + </p> + <p> + Above the Hut, where the icy slopes fell quickly to the sea, the snow + would lie for a few days at the very most, but, lower down, where the + glacier ran almost level for a short distance to the harbour ice, the + drifts would lie for months at the mercy of the wind, furrowed and cut + into miniature canyons; wearing away in fragments until the blue ice + showed once more, clear and wind-swept. + </p> + <p> + Towards the end of March the wind gave a few exhibitions of its power, + which did not augur well for the maximum periods of the winter. A few + diary jottings are enough to show this: + </p> + <p> + "March 23. During the previous night the wind steadily rose to an + eighty-mile 'touch' and upwards. It was one of those days when it is a + perpetual worry to be outside. + </p> + <p> + "March 24. Doing at least seventy miles per hour during the morning. About + 8 P.M. there was a temporary lull and a rise of.15 in the barometer. Now, + 9.30 P.M., it is going 'big guns.' The drift is fairly thick and snow is + probably falling. + </p> + <p> + "March 25. Much the same as yesterday. + </p> + <p> + "March 28. In a seventy-five-mile wind, Hodgeman had several fingers + frost-bitten this morning while attending to the anemograph. + </p> + <p> + "March 29. It was quite sunny when we opened the trap-door, though it blew + about sixty miles per hour with light drift. + </p> + <p> + "March 30. The wind is doing itself full justice. About 8 P.M. it ranged + between ninety-five and one hundred miles per hour, and now the whole hut + is tremulous and the stove-pipe vibrates so that the two large pots on the + stove rattle." + </p> + <p> + At the beginning of April, McLean laid the foundations of The Adelie + Blizzard which recorded our life for the next seven months. It was a + monthly publication, and contributions were invited from all on every + subject but the wind. Anything from light doggerel to heavy blank verse + was welcomed, and original articles, letters to the Editor, plays, reviews + on books and serial stories were accepted within the limits of our supply + of foolscap paper and type-writer ribbons. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + _____________________________________________________ + / \ + / THE ADELIE BLIZZARD \ + | | + | | + | / Registered at the General Plateau Office \ + |/ \ | + | / for transmission by wind as a newspaper \ | + | / \ | + | -o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- | + | | + | | + | ——CONTENTS—— | + | o-o-o-o- | + | | + | Editorial.............................. Page 1 | + | Southern Sledging Song................. " 2 | + | A Phantasm of the Snow................. " 3 | + | The Romance of Exploration | + | First Crossing of Greenland (Nansen). " 8 | + | Ode to Tobacco.......................... " 10 | + | Punch, the dinner epilogue.............. " 11 | + | To the Editor........................... " 12 | + | Scott's British Antarctic Expedition.... " 13 | + | Statics and Antarctics.................. " 14 | + | Wireless—the realization............... " 16 | + | Birth's, Deaths and Marriages........... " 17 | + | The Evolution of Women.................. " 18 | + | A Concise Narrative..................... " 21 | + | The Daylight Proposition................ " 23 | + | Meteorological and Magnetic Notes....... " 24 | + | Calendar Rhymes......................... " 25 | + | Answers to Correspondents............... " 26 | + | | + | o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- | + | | + | VOL-I—No. I April, 1913 | + | | + |__________________________________________________________| +</pre> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + It was the first Antarctic publication which could boast a real cable + column of news of the day. Extracts from the April number were read after + dinner one evening and excited much amusement. An "Ode to Tobacco" was + very popular, and seemed to voice the enthusiasm of our small community, + while "The Evolution of Women" introduced us to a once-familiar subject. + The Editor was later admitted by wireless to the Journalists' Association + (Sydney). + </p> + <p> + Many have asked the question, "What did you do to fill in the time during + the second year?" + </p> + <p> + The duties of cook and night-watchman came to each man once every week, + and meteorological and magnetic observations went on daily. Then we were + able to devote a good deal of time to working up the scientific work + accomplished during the sledging journeys. The wireless watches kept two + men well occupied, and in spare moments the chief recreation was reading. + There was a fine supply of illustrated journals and periodicals which had + arrived by the 'Aurora', and with papers like the 'Daily Graphic', + 'Illustrated London News', 'Sphere' and 'Punch', we tried to make up the + arrears of a year in exile. The "Encyclopaedia Britannica" was a great + boon, being always "the last word" in the settlement of a debated point. + Chess and cards were played on several occasions. Again, whenever the + weather gave the smallest opportunity, there were jobs outside, digging + for cases, attending to the wireless mast and, in the spring, geological + collecting and dredging. If the air was clear of drift, and the wind not + over fifty miles per hour, one could spend a pleasant hour or more walking + along the shore watching the birds and noting the changes in "scenery" + which were always occurring along our short "selection" of rocks. During + 1912 we had been able to study all the typical features of our novel and + beautiful environment, but 1913 was the period of "intensive cultivation" + and we would have gladly forgone much of it. Divine service was usually + held on Sunday mornings, but in place of it we sometimes sang hymns during + the evening, or arranged a programme of sacred selections on the + gramophone. There was a great loss in our singing volume after the + previous year, which Hodgeman endeavoured to remedy by striking up an + accompaniment on the organ. + </p> + <p> + Cooking reached its acme, according to our standard, and each man became + remarkable for some particular dish. Bage was the exponent of steam + puddings of every variety, and Madigan could always be relied upon for an + unfailing batch of puff-pastry. Bickerton once started out with the object + of cooking a ginger pudding, and in an unguarded moment used mixed spices + instead of ginger. The result was rather appetizing, and "mixed-spice + pudding" was added to an original list. McLean specialized in yeast + waffles, having acquired the art of tossing pancakes. Jeffryes had come on + the scene with a limited experience, but his first milk scones gained him + a reputation which he managed to make good. Hodgeman fell back on the + cookery book before embarking on the task of preparing dinner, but the + end-product, so to speak, which might be invariably expected for "sweets" + was tapioca pudding. Penguin meat had always been in favour. Now special + care was devoted to seal meat, and, after a while, mainly owing to the + rather copious use of onion powder, no one could say for certain which was + which. + </p> + <p> + During the previous year, yeast had been cultivated successfully from + Russian stout. The experiments were continued, and all available + information was gathered from cookery books and the Encyclopaedia. Russian + stout, barley wine, apple rings, sugar, flour and mould from potatoes were + used in several mixtures and eventually fermentation was started. + Bread-making was the next difficulty, and various instructions were tried + in succession. The method of "trial and error" was at last responsible for + the first light spongy loaf, and then every night-watchman cultivated the + art and baked for the ensuing day. + </p> + <p> + On April 8 the snow had gathered deeply everywhere and we had some + exercise on skis. Several of the morainic areas were no longer visible, + and it was possible to run between the rocks for a considerable distance. + A fresh breeze came up during the afternoon and provided a splendid + impetus for some good slides. During the short calm, twenty-six seals + landed on the harbour-ice. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the same day Mary gave birth to five pups in the Transit + House. The place was full of cracks, through which snow and wind were + always driving, and so we were not surprised when four of them were found + to have died. The survivor was named "Hoyle" (a cognomen for our old + friend Hurley) and his doings gave us a new fund of entertainment. + </p> + <p> + The other dogs had been penned in the veranda and in tolerable weather + were brought outside to be fed. Carrying an axe, Madigan usually went down + to the boat harbour, followed by the expectant pack, to where there were + several seal carcases. These lay immovably frozen to the ice, and were cut + about and hacked so that the meat in section reminded one of the grain of + a log of red gum, and it was certainly quite as hard. When Madigan + commenced to chop, the dogs would range themselves on the lee side and + "field" the flying chips. + </p> + <p> + On April 16 the last penguin was seen on a ledge overhanging an icy cove + to the east. Apparently its moulting time had not expired, but it was + certainly a very miserable bird, smothered in small icicles and snow and + partly exposed to a sixty-five mile wind with the temperature close to -10 + degrees F. Petrels were often seen flying along the foreshores and no wind + appeared to daunt them. It was certainly a remarkable thing to witness a + snow-petrel, small, light and fragile, making headway over the sea in the + face of an eighty-mile hurricane, fluttering down through the spindrift to + pick up a morsel of food which it had detected. Close to the western + cliffs there was a trail of brash-ice where many birds were often observed + feeding on Euphausia (crustaceans) in weather when it scarcely seemed + possible for any living creature to be abroad. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + The meteorological chart for April 12, 1913, compiled by the Commonwealth + Meteorological Bureau + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt appends the following explanation: "A very intense cyclone + passing south of Macquarie Island, where the barometer fell on the 11th + from 29.49 at 9 A.M. to 29.13 at 6 P.M., and the next day to 28.34 at 9 + A.M. and 27.91 at 6 P.M. At Adelie Land the barometer was not greatly + affected, but rose in sympathy with the passage of the 'low' from 28.70 to + 28.90 during the twenty-four hours. The influence of this cyclone was very + wide and probably embraced both Adelie Land and Tasmania." + </p> + <p> + Throughout April news by wireless came in slowly and spasmodically, and + Jeffryes was becoming resigned to the eccentricities of the place. As an + example of the unfavourable conditions which sometimes prevailed: on April + 14 the wind was steady, in the nineties, with light drift and, at times, + the aurora would illumine the north-west sky. Still, during "quiet" + intervals, two messages came through and were acknowledged. + </p> + <p> + A coded weather report, which had priority over all other messages, was + sent out each night, and it is surprising how often Jeffryes managed to + transmit this important intelligence. On evenings when receiving was an + impossibility, owing to a continual stream of St. Elmo's fire, the three + code words for the barometric reading, the velocity and direction of the + wind were signalled repeatedly and, on the following night, perhaps, + Macquarie Island would acknowledge them. Of course we had to use new signs + for the higher wind velocities, as no provision had been made for them in + our meteorological code-book. The reports from Macquarie Island and Adelie + Land were communicated to Mr. Hunt of the Commonwealth Weather Bureau and + to Mr. Bates of the Dominion Meteorological Office, who plotted them out + for their daily weather forecasts. + </p> + <p> + It was very gratifying to learn that the Macquarie Island party to a man + had consented to remain at their lonely post and from Ainsworth, their + leader, I received a brief report of the work which had been accomplished + by each member. We all could appreciate the sacrifice they were making. + Then, too, an account was received of the great sledging efforts which had + been made by Wild and his men to the west. But it was not till the end of + the year that their adventurous story was related to us in detail. + </p> + <p> + On the 23rd Lassie, one of the dogs, was badly wounded in a fight and had + to be shot. Quarrels amongst the dogs had to be quelled immediately, + otherwise they would probably mean the death of some unfortunate animal + which happened to be thrown down amongst the pack. Whenever a dog was + down, it was the way of these brutes to attack him irrespective of whether + they were friends or foes. + </p> + <p> + Among our dogs there were several groups whose members always consorted + together. Thus, George and Lassie were friends and, when the latter was + killed, George, who was naturally a miserable, downtrodden creature, + became a kind of pariah, morose and solitary and at war with all except + Peary and Fix, with whom he and Lassie had been associated in fights + against the rest. The other dogs lived together in some kind of harmony, + Jack and Amundsen standing out as particular chums, while the "pups," as + we called them—D'Urville, Ross and Wilkes ("Monkey")—were a + trio born in Adelie Land and, therefore, comrades in misfortune. Hoyle, as + a pup, was treated benevolently by all the others, and entered the + fellowship of the other three when he grew up. Among the rest, Mikkel + stood out as a good fighter, Colonel as the biggest dog and ringleader + against the Peary-Fix faction, Fram as a nervous intractable animal, and + Mary as the sole representative of the sex. + </p> + <p> + It was remarkable that Peary, Fix and George in their hatred of the + others, who were penned up in the dog shelter during bad weather, would + absent themselves for days on a snow ramp near the Magnetograph House, + where they were partly protected from the wind by rocks. George, from + being a mere associate of Peary and Fix, became more amiable as the year + went by, and at times it was quite pathetic to see his attempts at + friendliness. + </p> + <p> + We became very fond of the dogs despite their habit of howling at night + and their wolfish ferocity. They always gave one a welcome, in drift or + sunshine, and though ruled by the law of force, they had a few domestic + traits to make them civilized. + </p> + <p> + May was a dreaded month because it had been the period of worst wind and + drift during 1912. On this occasion the wind velocities over four weeks + were not so high and constant, though the snowfall was just as persistent. + On the 17th and 18th, however, there was an unexpected "jump" to the + nineties. The average over the first twenty-four hours was eighty-three, + and on the 18th it attained 93.7 miles per hour. One terrific rise between + 6.30 and 7.30 on the night of the 17th was shown as one hundred and three + miles on the anemometer—the record up to that time. + </p> + <p> + Madigan was thrown over and had a hard fall on his arm, smashing a bottle + of the special ink which was used for the anemograph pen. Bage related how + he had sailed across the Magnetic Flat by sitting down and raising his + arms in the air. He was accompanied by Fix, Peary and George, who were + blown along the slippery surface for yards. McLean had a "lively time" + cutting ice and bringing in the big blocks. Often he would slide away with + a large piece, and "pull up" on a snow patch twenty yards to leeward. + </p> + <p> + On the 22nd there were hours of gusts which came down like thunderbolts, + making us apprehensive for the safety of the wireless masts; we had grown + to trust the stability of the Hut. Every one who went outside came back + with a few experiences. Jeffryes was roughly handled through not wearing + crampons, and several cases of kerosene, firmly stacked on the break-wind, + were dislodged and thrown several yards. + </p> + <p> + Empire Day was celebrated in Adelie Land with a small display. At 2.30 + P.M. the Union Jack was hoisted to the topmast and three cheers were given + for the King. The wind blew at fifty miles an hour with light drift, + temperature -3 degrees F. Empire greetings were sent to the Colonial + Secretary, London, and to Mr Fisher, Prime Minister of Australia. These + were warmly reciprocated a few days afterwards. + </p> + <p> + Preceded by a day of whirlies on the 7th and random gusts on the same + evening, the wind made a determined attack next morning and carried away + the top and part of the middle section of the main wireless mast. It was a + very unexpected event, lulled as we were into security by the fact that + May, the worst month, had passed. On examination it was found that two of + the topmast wire stays had chafed through, whilst another had parted. At + first it seemed a hopeless task to re-erect the mast, but gradually ways + and means were discussed, and we waited for the first calm day to put the + theories into execution. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, it was suggested that if a heavy kite were made and induced to + fly in the continuous winds, the aerial thus provided would be sufficient + to receive wireless messages. To this end, Bage and Bickerton set to work, + and the first invention was a Venesta-box kite which was tried in a steady + seventy-mile wind. Despite its weight,—at least ten pounds —the + kite rose immediately, steadied by guys on either side, and then suddenly + descended with a crash on to the glacier ice. After the third fall the + kite was too battered to be of any further use. Another device, in which + an empty carbide tin was employed, and still another, making use of an old + propeller, shared the same fate. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 19th a perfect coloured corona, three degrees in + diameter, was observed encircling the moon in a sky which lit up at + intervals with dancing auroral curtains. Coronae or "glories," which + closely invest the luminary, are due to diffraction owing to immense + numbers of very minute water or ice particles floating in the air between + the observer and the source of light. The larger the particles the smaller + the corona, so that by a measurement of the diameter of a corona the size + of the particles can be calculated. Earlier in the year, a double corona + had been seen when the moon was shining through cirro-cumulus clouds. + Haloes, on the other hand, are wide circles (or arcs of circles) in the + sky surrounding the sun or moon, and arising from light-refraction in + myriads of tiny ice-crystals suspended in the atmosphere. They were very + commonly noted in Adelie Land where the conditions were so ideal for their + production. + </p> + <p> + Midwinter's Day 1913! we had reached a turning-point in the season. The + Astronomer Royal told us that at eight o'clock on June 22 the sun + commenced to return, and every one took note of the fact. The sky was + overcast, the air surcharged with drifting snow, and the wind was forty + miles an hour—a representative day as far as the climate was + concerned. The cook made a special effort and the menu bore the following + foreword: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Now is the winter of our discontent + Made glorious summer.... +</pre> + <p> + On July 6 the wind moderated, and we set about repairing once more the + fortunes of the "wireless." The shattered topmast used to sway about in + the heavy winds, threatening to bring down the rest of the mast. + Bickerton, therefore, climbed up with a saw and cut it almost through + above the doubling. All hands then pulled hard, and the upper part cracked + off, the lower section being easily removed from the cross-trees. The mast + now looked "shipshape" and ready for future improvements. + </p> + <p> + It was decided to use as a topmast the mast which had been formerly + employed to support the northern half of the aerial. So on the 29th this + was lowered and removed to the veranda to be fitted for erection. + </p> + <p> + Almost a fortnight now elapsed, during which the weather was "impossible." + In fact, the wind was frightful throughout the whole month of July, + surpassing all its previous records and wearing out our much-tried + patience. All that one could do was to work on and try grimly to ignore + it. On July 2 we noted: "Thick as a wall outside with an eighty-five + miler." And so it commenced and continued for a day, subsiding slowly + through the seventies to the fifties and then suddenly redoubling in + strength, rose to a climax about midnight on the 5th—one hundred and + sixteen miles an hour! For eight hours it maintained an average of one + hundred and seven miles an hour, and the timbers of the Hut seemed to be + jarred and wrenched as the wind throbbed in its mightier gusts. These were + the highest wind-velocities recorded during our two years' residence in + Adelie Land and are probably the highest sustained velocities ever + reported from a meteorological station. + </p> + <p> + With the exception of a few Antarctic and snow petrels flying over the sea + on the calmer days, no life had been seen round the Hut during June. So it + was with some surprise that we sighted a Weddell seal on July 9 attempting + to land on the harbour-ice in a seventy-five-mile wind. Several times it + clambered over the edge and on turning broadside to the wind was actually + tumbled back into the water. Eventually it struggled into the lee of some + icy hummocks, but only remained there for a few minutes, deciding that the + water was much warmer. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th there was an exceptionally low barometer at 27.794 inches. At + the same time the wind ran riot once more—two hundred and + ninety-eight miles in three hours. The highest barometric reading was + recorded on September 3, 30.4 inches, and the comparison indicates a wide + range for a station at sea-level. + </p> + <p> + To show how quickly conditions would change, it was almost calm next + morning, and all hands were in readiness to advance the wireless mast + another stage. Previously there had been three masts, one high one in + three lengths, and two smaller ones of one length each, between which the + aerial stretched; the "lead-in" wires being connected to the middle of the + aerial. This is known as an "umbrella aerial." Since we were without one + short mast it was resolved to erect a "directive" [capital gamma + gjc]-shaped aerial. The mainmast was to be in two instead of three + lengths, and we wondered if the aerial would be high enough. In any case, + it was so calm early on the 11th that we ventured to erect the topmast and + had hauled it half-way, when the wind swooped down from the plateau, and + there was just time to make fast the stays and the hauling rope and to + leave things "snug" for the next spell of bad weather. + </p> + <p> + In eight days another opportunity came, and this time the topmast was + hoisted, wedged and securely stayed. Bickerton had fixed a long bolt + through the middle of the topmast and just above it three additional wire + stays were to be placed. Another fine day and we reckoned to finish the + work. + </p> + <p> + From July 26 onwards the sky was cloudless for a week, and each day the + northern sun would rise a fraction of a degree higher. The wind was very + constant and of high velocity. + </p> + <p> + It was a grand sight to witness the sea in a hurricane on a driftless, + clear day. Crouched under a rock on Azimuth Hill, and looking across to + the west along the curving brink of the cliffs, one could watch the water + close inshore blacken under the lash of the wind, whiten into foam farther + off, and then disappear into the hurrying clouds of spray and sea-smoke. + Over the Mackellar Islets and the "Pianoforte Berg" columns of spray would + shoot up like geysers, and fly away in the mad race to the north. + </p> + <p> + Early in July Jeffryes became ill, and for some weeks his symptoms were + such as to give every one much anxiety. His work on the wireless had been + assiduous at all times, and there is no doubt that the continual and acute + strain of sending and receiving messages under unprecedented conditions + was such that he eventually had a "nervous breakdown." Unfortunately the + weather was so atrocious, and the conditions under which we were placed so + peculiarly difficult, that nothing could be done to brighten his + prospects. McLean considered that as the spring returned and it became + possible to take more exercise outside, the nervous exhaustion would pass + off. In the meantime Jeffryes took a complete rest, and slowly improved as + the months went by, and our hopes of relief came nearer. It was a great + misfortune for our comrade, especially as it was his first experience of + such a climate, and he had applied himself to work with enthusiasm and + perhaps in an over-conscientious spirit. + </p> + <p> + July concluded its stormy career with the astonishing wind-average of 63.6 + miles an hour. We were all relieved to see Friday, August 1, appear on the + modest calendar, which it was the particular pleasure of each + night-watchman to change. More light filtered day by day through the ice + on the kitchen window, midwinter lay behind, and we were ready to hail the + first signs of returning spring. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV NEARING THE END + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Seven men from all the world, back to town again, + Seven men from out of hell. + Kipling +</pre> + <p> + It is wonderful how quickly the weeks seemed to pass. Situated as we were, + Time became quite an object of study to us and its imperceptible drift was + almost a reality, considering that each day was another step towards + liberty—freedom from the tyranny of the wind. In a sense, the + endless surge of the blizzard was a slow form of torture, and the subtle + effect it had on the mind was measurable in the delight with which one + greeted a calm, fine morning, or noted some insignificant fact which + bespoke the approach of a milder season. Thus in August, although the + weather was colder, there were the merest signs of thawing along the edges + of the snow packed against the rocky faces which looked towards the sun; + Weddell seals came back to the land, and the petrels would at times appear + in large flocks; all of which are very commonplace events which any one + might have expected, but at the time they had more than their face value. + </p> + <p> + August 5 was undoubtedly a great day from our very provincial point of + view. On the 4th there had been a dense drift, during which the Hut was + buttressed round with soft snow which rose above the eaves and half filled + the entrance-veranda. The only way in which the night-watchman could keep + the hourly observations was to dig his way out frequently with a shovel. + In the early morning hours of the 5th the wind abated and veered right + round from south through east to north-east, from which quarter it + remained as a fresh breeze with falling snow. By 7 A.M. the air was still, + and outside there was a dead world of whiteness; flocculent heaps of down + rolling up to where glimpses of rock streaked black near the skyline of + the ridges, striated masses of livid cloud overhead, and to the horizon + the dark berg-strewn sea, over which the snow birds fluttered. + </p> + <p> + We did not linger over the scenery, but set to work to hoist to the head + of the mainmast the aerial, which had been hurriedly put together. The job + occupied till lunch-time, and then a jury-mast was fixed to the southern + supporting mast, and by dusk the aerial hung in position. Bickerton was + the leading spirit in the work and subsequently steadied the mainmast with + eighteen wire stays, in the determination to make it stable enough to + weather the worst hurricane. The attempt was so successful that in an + ordinary fifty-mile "blow" the mast vibrated slightly, and in higher winds + exhibited the smallest degree of movement. + </p> + <p> + At eight o'clock that night, Jeffryes, who felt so benefited by his rest + that he was eager to commence operating once more, had soon "attuned" his + instrument to Macquarie Island, and in a few minutes communication was + reestablished. + </p> + <p> + We learned from the Governor-General, Lord Denman, that her Majesty the + Queen was "graciously pleased to consent to the name 'Queen Mary Land' + being given to newly discovered land." The message referred to the tract + of Antarctic coast which had been discovered and mapped by Wild and his + party to the west. + </p> + <p> + On August 6 Macquarie Island signalled that they had run short of + provisions. The message was rather a paradox: " Food done, but otherwise + all right." However, on August 11, we were reassured to hear that the + 'Tutanekai', a New Zealand Government steamer, had been commissioned to + relieve the party, and that Sawyer through ill-health had been obliged to + return to Australia. A sealing-ship, the 'Rachel Cohen', after battling + for almost the whole month of July against gales, in an endeavour to reach + the island, with stores for our party and the sealers, had returned + damaged to port. + </p> + <p> + Marvellous to relate we had two calm days in succession, and on the 6th + the snow lay so deeply round the Hut that progression without skis was a + laborious flounder. The dogs plunged about in great glee, rolling in the + snow and "playing off" their surplus energy after being penned for a long + spell in the shelter. + </p> + <p> + On skis one could push up the first slopes of the glacier for a long + distance. Soft snow had settled two feet thick even on the steep icy + downfalls. The sea to the north was frozen into large cakes between which + ran a network of dark water "leads." With glasses we could make out in the + near distance five seals and two tall solitary figures which were + doubtless Emperor penguins. During the whole day nimbus clouds had hung + heavily from the sky, and snow had fallen in grains and star-like + crystals. Gradually the nimbus lightened, a rift appeared overhead, + and,the edges of the billowy cumulus were burnished in the light of the + low sun. The sea-horizon came sharply into sight through fading mist. + Bergs and islands, from being ghostly images, rose into sharp-featured + reality. The masts and Hut, with a dark riband of smoke floating from the + chimney, lay just below, and two of the men were walking out to the + harbour-ice where a seal had just landed, while round them scampered the + dogs in high spirits. That was sufficient to set us sliding downhill, + ploughing deep furrows through the soft drift and reaching the Hut in + quick time. + </p> + <p> + During August we were able to do more work outside, thus enlarging our + sphere of interest. Bage, who had been busy up till August 8 with his + daily magnetograph records, ran short of bromide papers and now had to be + contented with taking "quick runs" at intervals, especially when the + aurora was active. His astronomical observations had been very + disappointing owing to the continuous wind and drift. Still, in September, + which was marked by periods of fine weather, a few good star observations + were possible. Shafts were sunk in the sea-ice and up on the glacier, just + above the zone where the ice was loaded with stones and debris—the + lower moraine. The glacier shaft was dug to a depth of twenty-four feet, + and several erratics were met with embedded in the ice. In this particular + part the crystalline structure of the ice resembled that of a gneiss, + showing that it had flowed under pressure. I was able to make measurements + of ablation on the glacier, to take observations of the temperature and + salinity of the sea-water, and to estimate the forward movement of the + seaward cliffs of the ice-cap. + </p> + <p> + Geological collecting now became quite a popular diversion. With a slight + smattering of "gneiss," "felspar," "weathered limestone," "garnets," and + "glacial markings" the amateurs went off and made many finds on the + moraines, and the specimens were cached in heaps, to be later brought home + by the dogs, some of which were receiving their first lessons in + sledge-pulling. + </p> + <p> + Rather belated, but none the less welcome, our midwinter wireless + greetings arrived on August 17 from many friends who could only imagine + how much they were appreciated, and from various members of the Expedition + who had spent the previous year in Adelie Land and who knew the meaning of + an Antarctic winter. A few evenings later, Macquarie Islanders had their + reward in the arrival of the 'Tutanekai' from New Zealand with supplies of + food, and, piecing together a few fragments of evidence "dropped in the + ether," we judged that they were having a night of revelry. + </p> + <p> + The wind was in a fierce humour on the morning of August 16, mounting to + one hundred and five miles per hour between 9 and 10 A.M., and carrying + with it a very dense drift. + </p> + <p> + We were now in a position to sit down and generalize about the wind. It is + a tiresome thing to have it as the recurring insistent theme of our story, + but to have had it as the continual obstacle to our activity, the opposing + barrier to the simplest task, was even more tedious. + </p> + <p> + A river, rather a torrent, of air rushes from the hinterland northward + year after year, replenished from a source which never fails. We had + reason to believe that it was local in character, as apparently a gulf of + open water about one hundred miles in width—the D'Urville Sea—exists + to the north of Adelie Land. Thus, far back in the interior—back to + the South Geographical Pole itself—across one thousand six hundred + miles of lofty plateau—is a zone of high barometric pressure, while + to the north lies the D'Urville Sea and beyond it the Southern Ocean—a + zone of low pressure. As if through a contracted outlet, thereby + increasing the velocity of the flow, the wind sweeps down over Adelie Land + to equalize the great air-pressure system. And so, in winter, the chilling + of the plateau leads to the development of a higher barometric pressure + and, as the open water to the north persists, to higher winds. In summer + the suns shines on the Pole for six months, the uplands of the continent + are warmed and the northern zone of low pressure pushes southward. So, in + Adelie Land, short spells of calm weather may be expected over a period of + barely three months around the summer solstice. This explanation is + intentionally popular. The meteorological problem is one which can only be + fully discussed when all the manifold observations have been gathered + together, from other contemporary Antarctic expeditions, from our two + stations on the Antarctic continent, and from Macquarie Island; all taken + in conjunction with weather conditions around Australia and New Zealand. + Then, when all the evidence is arrayed and compared, some general truths + of particular value to science and, maybe, to commerce, should emerge. + </p> + <p> + Of one thing we were certain, and that was that Adelie Land was the + windiest place in the world. To state the fact more accurately: such + wind-velocities as prevail at sea-level in Adelie Land are known in other + parts of the world only at great elevations in the atmosphere. The average + wind-velocity for our first year proved to be approximately fifty miles + per hour. The bare figures convey more when they are compared with the + following average annual wind-velocities quoted from a book of reference: + Europe, 10.3 miles per hour; United States, 9.5 miles per hour; Southern + Asia, 6.5 miles per hour; West Indies, 6.2 miles per hour. + </p> + <p> + Reference has already been made to the fact that often the high winds + ceased abruptly for a short interval. Many times during 1913 we had + opportunities of judging this phenomenon and, as an example, may be quoted + September 6. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + A diagrammatic sketch illustrating the meteorological conditions at the + main base, noon, September 6, 1913 + </p> + <p> + On that day a south-by-east hurricane fell off and the drift cleared + suddenly from about the Hut at 11.20 A.M. On the hills to the south there + was a dense grey wall of flying snow. Whirlies tracked about at intervals + and overhead a fine cumulus cloud formed, revolving rapidly. Over the + recently frozen sea there was an easterly breeze, while about the Hut + itself there were light northerly airs. Later in the day the zone of + southern wind and drift crept down and once more overwhelmed us. Evidently + the "eye" of a cyclonic storm had passed over. + </p> + <p> + During September the sea was frozen over for more than two weeks, and the + meteorological conditions varied from their normal phase. It appeared as + if we were situated on the battlefield, so to speak, of opposing forces. + The pacific influence of the "north" would hold sway for a few hours, a + whole day, or even for a few days. Then the vast energies of the "south" + would rise to bursting-point and a "through blizzard" would be the result. + </p> + <p> + On September 11, although there was a wind of seventy miles per hour, the + sea-ice which had become very solid during a few days of low temperature + was not dispersed. Next day we found it possible to walk in safety to the + Mackellar Islets. On the way rushes of southerly wind accompanied by a + misty drift followed behind us. Then a calm intervened, and the sun + momentarily appeared and shone warmly. Suddenly from the north-west came + breezy puffs which settled into a light wind as we went north. On the way + home we could not see the mainland for clouds of drift, and, when + approaching the mouth of the boat-harbour, these clouds were observed to + roll down the lower slopes of the glacier and, reaching the shore, rise + into the air in columns. They then sailed away northward at a higher + altitude, almost obscuring the sun with a fine fog. On the same night the + "south" had gained the mastery, and the wind blew with its accustomed + strength. + </p> + <p> + Again, on September 24, McLean had a unique experience. He was digging ice + in a fifty-mile wind with moderate drift close to the Hut and, on + finishing his work, walked down to the harbour-ice to see if there were + any birds about. He was suddenly surprised to leave the wind and drift + behind and to walk out into an area of calm. The water lapped alongside + the ice-foot, blue in the brilliant sunlight. Away to the west a few miles + distant a fierce wind was blowing snow like fine spume over the brink of + the cliffs. Towards the north-west one could plainly see the junction + between calm water and foam-crested waves. To the south the drift drove + off the hills, passed the Hut, and then gyrated upwards and thinned away + seawards at an altitude of several hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + The wind average for September was 36.8 miles per hour, as against 53.7 + for September of the previous year. There were nine "pleasant" days, that + is, days on which it was possible to walk about outside and enjoy oneself. + On the 27th there was a very severe blizzard. The wind was from the + south-east: the first occasion on which it had blown from any direction + but south-by-east at a high velocity. The drift was extremely dense, the + roof of the Hut being invisible at a distance of six feet. Enormous ramps + of snow formed in the vicinity, burying most of the cases and the + air-tractor sledge completely. The anemograph screen was blown over and + smashed beyond all repair. So said the Meteorological Notes in the October + number of the 'Adelie Blizzard'. + </p> + <p> + Speaking of temperature in general, it was found that the mean-temperature + for the first year was just above zero; a very low temperature for a + station situated near the Circle. The continual flow of cold air from the + elevated interior of the continent accounts for this. If Adelie Land were + a region of calms or of northerly winds, the average temperature would be + very much higher. On the other hand, the temperature at sea-level was + never depressed below-28 degrees F., though with a high wind we found that + uncomfortable enough, even in burberrys. During the spring sledging in + 1912 the lowest temperature recorded was -35 degrees F. and it was hard to + keep warm in sleeping-bags. The wind made all the difference to one's + resistance. + </p> + <p> + There was an unusually heavy snowfall during 1913. When the air was + heavily charged with moisture, as in midsummer, the falls would consist of + small (sago) or larger (tapioca) rounded pellets. Occasionally one would + see beautiful complicated patterns in the form of hexagonal flakes. When + low temperatures were the rule, small, plain, hexagonal stars or spicules + fell. Often throughout a single snowfall many types would be precipitated. + Thus, in September, in one instance, the fall commenced with fluffy balls + and then passed to tapioca snow, sago snow, six-rayed stars and spicules. + </p> + <p> + Wireless communication was still maintained, though September was found to + be such a "disturbed" month—possibly owing to the brilliant aurorae—that + not a great many messages were exchanged. Jeffryes was not in the best of + health, so that Bickerton took over the operating work. Though at first + signals could only be received slowly, Bickerton gradually improved with + practice and was able to "keep up his end" until November 20, when + daylight became continuous. One great advantage, which by itself justified + the existence of the wireless plant, was the fact that time-signals were + successfully received from Melbourne Observatory by way of Macquarie + Island, and Bage was thus able to improve on his earlier determinations + and to establish a fundamental longitude. + </p> + <p> + During this same happy month of September, whose first day marked the + event of "One hundred days to the coming of the Ship" there was a great + revival in biological work. Hodgeman made several varieties of bag-traps + which were lowered over the edge of the harbour-ice, and many large + "worms" and crustaceans were caught and preserved. + </p> + <p> + On September 14 Bickerton started to construct a hand-dredge, which was + ready for use by the next evening. It was a lovely, cloudless day on the + 16th and the sea-ice, after more than two weeks, still spread to the north + in a firm, unbroken sheet. We went out on skis to reconnoitre, and found + that the nearest "lead" was too far away to make dredging a safe + proposition. So we were contented to kill a seal and bring it home before + lunch, continuing to sink the ice-shaft above the moraine for the rest of + the day. + </p> + <p> + The wind rose to the "seventies" on September 17, and the sea-ice was + scattered to the north. On the 19th—a fine day—there were many + detached pieces of floe which drifted in with a northerly breeze, and on + one of these, floating in an ice-girt cove to the west, a sea-leopard was + observed sunning himself. He was a big, vicious-looking brute, and we + determined to secure him if possible. The first thing was to dispatch him + before he escaped from the floe. This Madigan did in three shots from a + Winchester rifle. A long steel-shod sledge was then dragged from the Hut + and used to bridge the interval between the ice-foot and the floe. After + the specimen had been flayed, the skin and a good supply of dogs' meat + were hauled across and sledged home. On the 30th another sea-leopard came + swimming in near the harbour's entrance, apparently on the look-out for + seals or penguins. Including the one seen during 1912, only three of these + animals were observed during our two years' sojourn in Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + Dredgings in depths up to five fathoms were done inside the boat harbour + and just off its entrance on five separate occasions between September 22 + and the end of the month. Many "worms," crustaceans, pteropods, asteroids, + gastropods and hydroids were obtained, and McLean and I had many + interesting hours classifying the specimens. The former preserved and + labelled them, establishing a small laboratory in the loft above the + "dining-room." The only disadvantage of this arrangement was that various + "foreign bodies" would occasionally come tumbling through the interspaces + between the flooring boards of the loft while a meal was in progress. + </p> + <p> + Some Antarctic petrels were shot and examined for external and internal + parasites. Fish were caught in two traps made by Hodgeman and myself in + October, but unfortunately the larger of the two was lost during a + blizzard. However, on October 11 a haul of fifty-two fish was made with + hand-lines off the boat harbour, and we had a pleasant change in the menu + for dinner. They were of the type known as Notothenia, to which reference + has already been made. + </p> + <p> + By October 13, when a stray silver-grey petrel appeared, every one was on + the qui vive for the coming of the penguins. In 1912 they had arrived on + October 12, and as there was much floating ice on the northern horizon, we + wondered if their migration to land had been impeded. + </p> + <p> + The winds were very high for the ensuing two days, and on the 17th the + horizon was clearer and more "water sky" was visible. Before lunch on that + day there was not a living thing along the steep, overhanging ice-foot, + but by the late afternoon thirteen birds had effected a landing, and those + who were not resting after their long swim were hopping about making a + survey of the nearest rookeries. One always has a "soft spot" for these + game little creatures—there is something irresistibly human about + them—and, situated as we were, the wind seemed of little account now + that the foreshores were to be populated by the penguins—our + harbingers of summer and the good times to be. Three days later, at the + call of the season, a skua gull came flapping over the Hut. + </p> + <p> + It was rather a singular circumstance that on the evening of the 17th, + coincident with the disappearance of the ice on the horizon, wireless + signals suddenly came through very strongly in the twilight at 9.30 P.M., + and for many succeeding nights continued at the same intensity. On the + other hand, during September, when the sea was either firmly frozen or + strewn thickly with floe-ice, communication was very fitful and uncertain. + The fact is therefore suggested that wireless waves are for some reason + more readily transmitted across a surface of water than across ice. + </p> + <p> + The weather during the rest of October and for the first weeks of November + took on a phase of heavy snowfalls which we knew were inevitable before + summer could be really established. The winds were very often in the + "eighties" and every four or five days a calm might be expected. + </p> + <p> + The penguins had a tempestuous time building their nests, and resuming + once more the quaint routine of their rookery life. In the hurricanes they + usually ceased work and crouched behind rocks until the worst was over. A + great number of birds were observed to have small wounds on the body which + had bled and discoloured their feathers. In one case a penguin had + escaped, presumably from a sea-leopard, with several serious wounds, and + had staggered up to a rookery, dying there from loss of blood. Almost + immediately the frozen carcase was mutilated and torn by skua gulls. + </p> + <p> + On October 31 the good news was received that the 'Aurora' would leave + Australia on November 15. There were a great number of things to be + packed, including the lathe, the motor and dynamos, the air-tractor + engine, the wireless "set" and magnetic and meteorological instruments. + Outside the Hut, many cases of kerosene and provisions, which might be + required for the Ship, had been buried to a depth of twelve feet in places + during the southeast hurricane in September. So we set to work in great + spirits to prepare for the future. + </p> + <p> + McLean was busy collecting biological specimens, managing to secure a + large number of parasites from penguins, skua gulls, giant petrels, snow + petrels, Wilson petrels, seals and an Emperor penguin, which came up on + the harbour-ice. On several beautiful days, with a sea-breeze wafting in + from the north, large purple and brown jelly-fish came floating to the + ice-foot. Many were caught in a hand-net and preserved in formalin. In his + shooting excursions McLean happened on a small rocky ravine to the east + where, hovering among nests of snow and Wilson petrels, a small + bluish-grey bird,* not unlike Prion Banksii, was discovered. Four + specimens were shot, and, later, several old nests were found containing + the unhatched eggs of previous years. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** On arrival in Australia this bird proved to be new to science. +</pre> + <p> + On the highest point of Azimuth Hill, overlooking the sea, a Memorial + Cross was raised to our two lost comrades. + </p> + <p> + A calm evening in November! At ten o'clock a natural picture in shining + colours is painted on the canvas of sea and sky. The northern dome is a + blush of rose deepening to a warm terra-cotta along the horizon, and the + water reflects it upward to the gaze. Tiny Wilson petrels flit by like + swallows; seals shove their dark forms above the placid surface; the shore + is lined with penguins squatting in grotesque repose. The south is pallid + with light—the circling sun. Adelie Land is at peace! + </p> + <p> + For some time Madigan, Hodgeman and I had been prepared to set out on a + short sledging journey to visit Mount Murchison and to recover if possible + the instruments cached by the Eastern Coastal and the Southern Parties. It + was not until November 23 that the weather "broke" definitely, and we + started up the old glacier "trail" assisted by a good team of dogs. + </p> + <p> + Aladdin's Cave was much the same as we had left it in the previous + February, except that a fine crop of delicate ice-crystals had formed on + its walls. We carried with us a small home-made wireless receiving set, + and arrangements were made with Bickerton and Bage to call at certain + hours. As an "aerial" a couple of lengths of copper wire were run out on + the surface of the ice. At the first "call" Madigan heard the signals + strongly and distinctly, but beyond five and a half miles nothing more was + received. + </p> + <p> + Resuming the journey on the following day, we made a direct course for + Madigan Nunatak and then steered southeast for Mount Murchison, pitching + camp at its summit on the night of November 28. + </p> + <p> + On the 29th Madigan and Hodgeman made a descent into the valley, on whose + southern side rose Aurora Peak. The former slid away on skis and had a + fine run to the bottom, while Hodgeman followed on the sledge drawn by + Monkey and D'Urville, braking with an ice-axe driven into the snow between + the cross-bars. Their object was to find the depot of instruments and + rocks which the Eastern Coastal Party were forced to abandon when + fifty-three miles from home. They were unsuccessful in the search, as an + enormous amount of snow had fallen on the old surface during the interval + of almost a year. Indeed, on the knoll crowning Mount Murchison, where a + ten-foot flagpole had been left, snow had accumulated so that less than a + foot of the top of the pole was showing. Nine feet of hard compressed snow + scarcely marked by one's footsteps—the contribution of one year! To + such a high isolated spot drift-snow would not reach, so that the annual + snowfall must greatly exceed the residuum found by us, for the effect of + the prevailing winds would be to reduce it greatly. + </p> + <p> + On the third day after leaving Mount Murchison for the Southern Party's + depot, sixty-seven miles south of Winter Quarters, driving snow commenced, + and a blizzard kept us in camp for seven days. When the drift at last + moderated we were forced to make direct for the Hut, as the time when the + Ship was expected to arrive had passed. + </p> + <p> + Descending the long blue slopes of the glacier just before midnight on + December 12, we became aware of a faint black bar on the seaward horizon. + Soon a black speck had moved to the windward side of the bar—and it + could be nothing but the smoke of the 'Aurora'. The moment of which we had + dreamt for months had assuredly come. The Ship was in sight! + </p> + <p> + There were wild cheers down at the Hut when they heard the news. They + could not believe us and immediately rushed up with glasses to the nearest + ridge to get the evidence of their own senses. The masts, the funnel and + the staunch hull rose out of the ocean as we watched on the hills through + the early hours of a superb morning. The sun was streaming warmly over the + plateau and a cool land breeze had sprung up from the south, as the + 'Aurora' rounded the Mackellar Islets and steamed up to her old anchorage. + We picked out familiar figures on the bridge and poop, and made a bonfire + of kerosene, benzine and lubricating oil in a rocky crevice in their + honour. + </p> + <p> + The indescribable moment was when Davis came ashore in the whale-boat, + manned by two of the Macquarie Islanders (Hamilton and Blake), Hurley and + Hunter. They rushed into the Hut, and we tried to tell the story of a year + in a few minutes. + </p> + <p> + On the Ship we greeted Gillies, Gray, de la Motte, Ainsworth, Sandell and + Correll. It was splendid to know that the world contained so many people, + and to see these men who had stuck to the Expedition through "thick and + thin." Then came the fusillade of letters, magazines and "mysterious" + parcels and boxes. At dinner we sat down reunited in the freshly painted + ward-room, striving to collect our bewildered thoughts at the sight of a + white tablecloth, Australian mutton, fresh vegetables, fruit and cigars. + </p> + <p> + The two long years were over—for the moment they were to be effaced + in the glorious present. We were to live in a land where drift and wind + were unknown, where rain fell in mild, refreshing showers, where the sky + was blue for long weeks, and where the memories of the past were to fade + into a dream—a nightmare? + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV LIFE ON MACQUARIE ISLAND + </h2> + <h3> + By G. F. Ainsworth + </h3> + <p> + Left on an island in mid-ocean! + </p> + <p> + It suggests the romances of youthful days—Crusoe, Sindbad and all + their glorious company. Still, when this narrative is completed, + imagination will be seen to have played a small part. In fact, it is a + plain tale of our experiences, descriptive of a place where we spent + nearly two years and of the work accomplished during our stay. + </p> + <p> + The island was discovered in 1810 by Captain Hasselborough of the ship + 'Perseverance', which had been dispatched by Campbell and Sons, of Sydney, + under his command to look for islands inhabited by fur seals. Macquarie + Islands, named by Hasselborough after the Governor of New South Wales, + were found to be swarming with these valuable animals, and for two years + after their discovery was made known, many vessels visited the place, + landing gangs of men to procure skins and returning at frequent intervals + to carry the proceeds of their labours to the markets of the world. + </p> + <p> + The slaughter of the seals was so great that the animals were almost + exterminated within a few years. One ship is known to have left Macquarie + Island with a cargo of 35,000 skins during the first year of operations. + High prices were obtained for them in London and China, and many American, + British and Sydney firms were engaged in the enterprise. + </p> + <p> + The value of a skin is determined by the condition of the fur, which is + often damaged by the animals fighting amongst themselves. Furthermore, at + a certain season of the year, the seals moult, and if taken within a + certain time of this natural process, the skin is almost valueless. These + facts were ignored by the sealers, who killed without discrimination. + </p> + <p> + Again, both male and female, old and young were ruthlessly slaughtered, + with the obvious result—the extermination of the species. If + supervision had been exercised and restrictions imposed, there is no doubt + that the island would still have been used by the fur seal as a + breeding-ground. During our stay none were seen, but Mr. Bauer, who acts + as sealing herdsman and who had visited the island in that capacity each + summer for eleven years, stated that he had seen odd ones at infrequent + intervals. + </p> + <p> + Associated as the island has been since the year 1812 with sealing and oil + ventures, it follows that a history has been gradually developed; somewhat + traditional, though many occurrences to which we shall refer are well + authenticated. + </p> + <p> + It might be supposed from the foregoing, that a good deal is known about + the place, but such is not the case, except in a general sense. Several + scientific men from New Zealand, recognizing the importance of the island + as a link between Australasia and Antarctica, visited it at different + times within the past twenty years, only remaining long enough to make a + cursory examination of the eastern side. They had to depend on the + courtesy of the sealing ships' captains for a passage, and the stormy + conditions which are ever prevalent made their stay too brief for any + exhaustive work. + </p> + <p> + A Russian Antarctic expedition, under Bellingshausen's command, called + there in 1821 and stayed for two days, collecting a few bird and animal + specimens. They referred to the island as being "half-cooled down," in a + short but interesting account of their visit, and remarked upon the large + number of sea-elephants lying on the shores. + </p> + <p> + In 1840 the ship 'Peacock', one of the exploring vessels of the American + Expedition under Wilkes, landed several men after much difficulty on the + south-west of the island, but they remained only a few hours, returning to + their ship after securing some specimens of birds. Expressing astonishment + at the "myriad of birds", they remarked, "Macquarie Islands offer no + inducement for a visit, and as far as our examination showed, have no + suitable place for landing with a boat." + </p> + <p> + The next call of an Antarctic expedition was made by Captain Scott in the + 'Discovery' in November 1901. He, with several naturalists, landed on the + eastern side to collect specimens, but remained only a few hours. He + refers to the penguins, kelp-weed and tussock grass; certainly three + characteristic features. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis, during his search for charted sub-antarctic islands, when + connected with Sir Ernest Shackleton's expedition, called there in the + 'Nimrod' in 1909. He landed a party of men who secured several + sea-elephants and some penguins. + </p> + <p> + It will thus be seen that very little had been done which was + scientifically important or generally interesting. Sealers came and went + as a matter of business, and probably the arduous nature of their work and + the rugged topography of the island combined to prevent the more curious + from exploring far afield. + </p> + <p> + Captain Scott was desirous of establishing a base on Macquarie Island in + 1910, but circumstances compelled him to abandon the idea. And so it came + that we five men of Dr. Mawson's Expedition were landed on December 22, + 1911, with a programme of work outlined by our leader. H. Hamilton was + biologist, L. R. Blake surveyor and geologist, C. A. Sandell and A. J. + Sawyer were wireless operators, the former being also a mechanic, and I + was appointed meteorologist and leader of the party. + </p> + <p> + We stood on the beach in the dusk, watching the boat's party struggle back + to the 'Aurora', which lay at anchor one and a half miles from the + north-west shore. Having received a soaking landing in the surf and being + tired out with the exertions of the day, we started back to our temporary + shelter. We had not gone very far when a mysterious sound, followed by a + shaking of the earth, made us glance at each other and exclaim, "An + earthquake!" The occurrence gave rise to a discussion which carried us to + bed. + </p> + <p> + Seeing that we were to spend a long time on the island, the question of + building a hut was the first consideration. Through the kindness of Mr. + Bauer, who had just left the island in the s.s. 'Toroa', we were able to + live for the time being in the sealers' hut. + </p> + <p> + It was urgent to get the wireless station into working order as soon as + possible. The masts and operating-hut had been erected during the stay of + the 'Aurora', but there yet remained the building of the engine-hut and + the installation of the machinery and instruments, as well as the + construction and erection of the aerial. Accordingly we proceeded with the + living-hut and the job on Wireless Hill at the same time, working on the + hill most of the day and at the hut in the evening. + </p> + <p> + Wireless Hill rose to three hundred and fifty feet in height, and formed + part of a peninsula running in a northeasterly direction from the main + island. It had been chosen by Mr. Hannam of the Adelie Land party because + of its open northerly aspect, and because "wireless" waves would probably + have a good "set-off," southward to the Main Base in Antarctica. + </p> + <p> + Just a few yards from the base of the hill on its southwestern side was a + huge rock, upon the easterly side of which we decided to build our + dwelling. The timbers for the hut had been cut and fitted in Hobart, so + all that remained for us was to put them together. + </p> + <p> + After working at high pressure until December 30, we were able to + establish ourselves in a home. The doorway faced to the east, and the rock + protected the small place from the strong westerly weather which is + invariable in these latitudes. The dimensions were twenty feet by thirteen + feet, the front wall being nine feet six inches high, sloping to seven + feet six inches at the back. All the timbers were of oregon and deal, and + particular attention was paid to bracing and strengthening the building, + which rested on piles just clear of the sandy surface. The inside was + lined and ceiled, and the roof of galvanized iron was set flush with the + front wall, fascia boards along the front and sides being designed to keep + the fine snow from blowing under the corrugations and lodging on the + ceiling. "George V Villa" was fixed upon as the name, but the hut was + never at any time referred to as the villa, and in future will always be + known as the Shack. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Plan of Hut—Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + Twelve live sheep had been landed, and these had been driven on to + Wireless Hill so as to be accessible. We decided to kill one for + Christmas, so on December 24 Sandell and I, leaving the others at work on + the Shack, started out. + </p> + <p> + The hillsides are deeply ravined and the slopes covered with a dense + growth of tussock, which renders progress uncertain and laborious. Our + experience was a foretaste of many to come. We found the sheep huddled + together in a deep gully on the eastern side, and drove them round to the + front of the hill, where one was caught, killed and dressed. + </p> + <p> + Christmas Day dawned fine and sunny, and we decided to make some attempt + at a dinner. Blake produced a plum pudding, and this, together with roast + mutton and several kinds of vegetables, washed down with a little claret, + constituted our first Christmas dinner. + </p> + <p> + The sealing schooner, Clyde, had been wrecked without loss of life on + November 14, 1911, on the east coast, and was now lying on the beach + nearly half a mile away. A two-hundred-gallon tank had been saved from the + wreck and we managed on Christmas morning, after two hours of carrying and + trundling, to place it at the end of the Shack. This was a valuable find, + ensuring in the future a constant, convenient supply of rain water. + Further, we made use of the timber of the wreck for building, and the + broken pieces strewn about were stored up as firewood. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th we all went to the wireless station, and, as Sandell had the + aerial made, we pulled it into position. In the afternoon I unpacked all + my instruments and started them off so as to make sure that all were + working correctly. I did not intend to record any observations till + January 1, 1912, and therefore did not erect the meteorological screen + until the 28th. + </p> + <p> + On moving into our abode domestic arrangements were made. With regard to + cooking, each man took duty for a week, during which he was able to write + up his work and to wash and mend clothes. To Hamilton and Sandell, who had + had previous experience, frequent appeals were made as to methods of + cooking various dishes, but by degrees each one asserted his independence. + There were several cookery books for reference and each week saw the + appearance of some new pudding, in each instance prefaced by the boast: + "This is going to be the best pudding ever turned out on the island!" The + promise was not always made good. + </p> + <p> + We had a good deal of difficulty at first in making bread and several + batches were very "heavy" failures. This difficulty, however, was soon + overcome and, after the first few months, the cooking standard was high + and well maintained. Our stove was very small and only two loaves of bread + could be cooked at once. It frequently happened, therefore, that the + others, which would go on rising in the tins, overflowed; a matter which + could only be set right by experience. + </p> + <p> + On New Year's Day, 1912, we carried timber in relays from the wreck to the + top of Wireless Hill, so that the building of the engine-hut could be + started. The next few days were occupied in getting food-stuffs, + medicines, stationery, clothing and other necessaries over to the Shack + from the landing-place on the beach. Blake and Hamilton unpacked their + instruments and appliances, fitting up a small laboratory and photographic + dark-room in one corner of the hut. + </p> + <p> + Some kind Hobart friend had sent four fowls to me on the day of sailing, + requesting me to take them to Macquarie island. They were housed in one of + the meteorological screens, but on the third day from Hobart a heavy sea + broke on board, upset the temporary fowl-house and crushed the rooster's + head. The three hens were landed safely and appeared to be thoroughly + reconciled to their strange surroundings, though the presence of so many + large birds soaring about overhead had a terrifying effect on them for + several days. They did not appear to pick up much food amongst the grass, + but scratched away industriously all the same. I must say that they were + very friendly and gave the place quite a homely aspect. One of them was + christened "Ma" on account of her maternal and somewhat fussy disposition. + </p> + <p> + On the first Sunday in the new year all except myself went along the coast + towards West Point. The party reported immense numbers of sea-elephants, + especially young ones. They also saw many wekas and three ducks, shooting + nine of the former for the kitchen. + </p> + <p> + The wekas or Maori hens are small, flightless birds, averaging when full + grown about two and three-quarter pounds. They were introduced twenty-five + years ago by Mr. Elder, of New Zealand, a former lessee of the island, and + multiplied so fast that they are now very numerous. They live among the + tussocks, and subsist for the most part upon the larvae of the kelp-fly, + small fish and other marine life which they catch under the stones along + the rocky shores at low tide. They are exceedingly inquisitive and + pugnacious and may easily be caught by hand. + </p> + <p> + Usually, when disturbed, they will pop under a rock, and on being seized + immediately commence to squeak. This is sufficient to bring every weka + within a quarter of a mile hurrying to the spot, and, in a few minutes, + heads may be seen poking out of the grass in every direction. The man + holding the bird then crouches down, preferably just on the border of the + tussock, holding the protesting bird in one hand. Soon there will be a + rustle, then a rush, and another furious weka will attack the decoy. The + newcomer is grabbed and, if the birds are plentiful, five or six of them + may be taken in one spot. + </p> + <p> + Their call is peculiarly plaintive and wild and may be heard night and + day. Though we saw and caught innumerable young ones of all sizes, we were + never able to find the nests of these Maori hens. + </p> + <p> + A depot of stores had been laid by the 'Aurora' at Caroline Cove, twenty + miles from the Shack at the south end of the island, and it was deemed + advisable to lay several more intermediate food-depots along the east + coast. + </p> + <p> + The sealers had a motor-launch which they kindly placed at our disposal, + and a supply of stores was put on board for transport. At 8 A.M., January + 9, Sandell, Blake, Sawyer and Hamilton started out accompanied by two + sealers who offered to point out the positions of several old huts along + the coast. These huts had been built by sealing gangs many years ago and + were in a sad state of disrepair. + </p> + <p> + The first call was made at Sandy Bay, about five miles from the Shack. + Stores were landed and placed in the hut, and the party proceeded to + Lusitania Bay, eleven miles farther on, where they stayed for the night. + At this place (named after an old sealing craft, the 'Lusitania') there + were two huts, one being a work-hut and the other a living-hut. They had + not been used for sixteen years and, as a result, were found to be much + dilapidated. In the locality is a large King penguin rookery, the only one + on the island, and two dozen eggs were obtained on this visit, some fresh + and some otherwise. + </p> + <p> + As the next morning was squally, it was decided that the stores should be + deposited in the hut at the south end; a distance of five miles across + country. Through bog and tussock it took the party four hours to + accomplish this journey. The hut was found in the same condition as the + others and a rather miserable night was spent. A short distance from this + spot is situated the largest penguin rookery on the island. On returning + to the launch, the six men had a quick run of three hours back to the + north end. + </p> + <p> + During the absence of the party I had been busy erecting a stand for the + anemo-biagraph. Ordinarily, such an instrument is kept in a house, the + upper section only being exposed through the roof. The Shack was in a + position too sheltered for my purpose, so I built a place for the + anemo-biagraph behind a low rock well out on the isthmus. + </p> + <p> + Sandell and Sawyer reported on the 16th that the wireless station was + ready for testing. Therefore, on the following day, the three of us + erected a small set on the farthest point of the peninsula—North + Head. The set had been made in order to test the large station. Sawyer + then returned to the operating-hut and received signals sent from North + Head by Sandell, who in return received Sawyer's signals, thus showing + that so far everything was satisfactory. It was thought, after the tests, + that the "earth" was not by any means good and Sawyer erected a + counterpoise, which, however, failed to give anything like the "earth" + results. More "earths" (connexions by wire with the ground) were now put + in from day to day, and on the 27th Sawyer noted an improvement. + Successful tests were again made on the 30th. The wireless men now + expected communication with Australia. + </p> + <p> + Blake and Hamilton were soon making inroads, each on his own particular + sphere of work. On the 17th a baseline was laid down on the plateau, and + Blake was able to commence his survey of the island. He had already made + some geological investigations in the vicinity of North Head and West + Point, as well as for a short distance along the east coast. Hamilton had + visited nearly all the penguin rookeries in the vicinity, and already had + several fine specimens. Marine collecting occupied part of his time and + plant life promised to provide an interesting field. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + The north end of Macquarie Island + </p> + <p> + From the intermediate position that Macquarie Island occupies relative to + Australasia and the Antarctic continent, it was highly important that its + biology should be fully determined. Investigation of the marine and + terrestrial fauna and flora shows several facts indicating the part this + island has played in the supposed connexion of the great land masses of + the southern hemispheres. It is an established fact that the flora of New + Zealand has strong sub-antarctic and South American affinities and the + problem is to account for this distribution. Many forms of plant and + animal life are circumaustral, being found in all suitable sub-antarctic + situations. To account for this fact two theories have been advanced, + namely, the Relict theory (Dahl, Schenck and others) and the Antarctic + theory. + </p> + <p> + The first theory supposes that the inhabitants of the sub-antarctic + islands are the remnants of groups of animals developed in some northern + land-mass, and driven south by more highly developed forms. Again, that + these sub-antarctic islands have always been separated from continents, + and that the distribution of life on the former must have proceeded over + wide stretches of sea. + </p> + <p> + The Antarctic theory accounts for the distribution and similarity of + sub-antarctic fauna and flora by establishing a connexion between the + sub-antarctic islands and the Antarctic continent. At the same period, the + Antarctic continent was assumed to be connected by land with South + America, South Africa and Australia, and the similar life forms now found + in these continents were driven northward by a subsequent colder period. + This theory is strengthened by several facts, chief of which are, (1) the + existence of an Antarctic continent, and (2) the comparatively shallow + waters between it, South Africa, Australia and South America. + </p> + <p> + Whichever theory is adopted, it is evident that our scientific + opportunities were unique. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th, Sandell, Sawyer and I decided to climb on to the main ridge + or plateau of the island. We had already discovered that the easiest way + to get on to the hills was to follow up one of the many ravines or gullies + which run down to the sea. This necessitates walking in water most of the + way, but one soon gets accustomed to wet feet on Macquarie Island. + </p> + <p> + The slopes rise in a series of terraces which are generally soggy and + covered with tussock (pleurophyllum) and with scattered cushions of + Azorella. The summit of the ridge is a barren waste, over which loose + rocks are scattered in every direction, while a wavy effect due to the + action of wind is plainly visible over the surface of the ground. The + steep, descending sides are very soft and sodden, supporting a scanty + growth of vegetation, including the small burr known as the "biddy-bid." + </p> + <p> + Hundreds of tarns and lakes are visible along the plateau-like ridge which + extends throughout the length of the island. Several of the lakes are half + a mile long and very deep. The tarns are, for the most part, shallow with + hard stony bottoms. The water is beautifully fresh and apparently contains + no life. + </p> + <p> + Skua gulls were plentiful and washed themselves, with a great flapping of + wings, in the shallow waters at the edge of the lakes. They paid + particular attention to our dog "Mac," swooping down and attempting to + strike her with their wings. A yelp at intervals came from Mac if they + were successful, though the former, if she were quick enough, would spring + at the bird and retaliate by getting a mouthful of feathers. + </p> + <p> + We eventually came out on to a point about seven hundred feet high, + overlooking the west coast, and it could be seen that the space between + the base of the hills and the ocean was occupied by a plain which sloped + very gradually to the beach. Here and there across its surface were huge + mounds of earth and rock and, occasionally, a small lakelet fringed with a + dense growth of tussock and Maori cabbage. + </p> + <p> + A descent was made to explore the place. A fairly large volume of water + flowed rapidly downward by several deep gullies and, coming to the + terrace, cut narrow, sinuous channels which were soon lost to view in the + tussocks. Examination of the watercourses revealed that this tract was + simply a raised beach covered with sodden peat and carrying a rather + coarse vegetation. The ground was decidedly springy and shook to our + tread; moreover, one sank down over the ankles at each step. Occasionally + a more insecure area was encountered, where one of us would go down to the + thighs in the boggy ground. + </p> + <p> + As the shore approached we came to thick tussock and Maori cabbage, and + the travelling became much rougher. A group of earthy mounds and rock was + sighted some distance away and we decided to reach them and have our + lunch. A nearer view showed us a large opening in one of these prominences + and we scrambled up to examine it. + </p> + <p> + Inside there was a small cave, high in front but sloping sharply towards + the back for a distance of thirty-five feet. The roof and walls were + blackened by smoke, and spikes and nails driven into crevices were + evidences that the place had once been occupied. Eagle Cave it is called + and its story was afterwards related to us. + </p> + <p> + Between thirty and forty years ago the schooner 'Eagle', in attempting to + make the island, had been caught in a gale and wrecked on the rock-bound + western coast. As far as can be learned, there were nine men and a woman + on board, all of whom were saved. They lived in this cave for almost two + years, subsisting upon what they could catch. Decayed tussock grass, a + foot in depth, now covers the floor, showing that some attempt had been + made to improve the comfort of the place, while bones lying strewn about + in all directions indicate that gulls, penguins and cormorants must have + supplied a good deal of their food. It is presumed that some of them made + a journey to North Head periodically to look out for relief, as a + well-defined track to that point is still visible in places. + </p> + <p> + The tale, however, has its tragic side, for the woman died on the very day + when the rescuing ship called at the island. She was buried on the + isthmus, not far from our Shack. One would think that death was rather a + relief from such an existence as this unfortunate woman must have endured, + but, at the same time, it seems hard that she did not live to participate + in the joy of deliverance. + </p> + <p> + We ate our lunch and had a smoke, after which we decided to walk homewards + along "Feather Bed" terrace. A few minutes after leaving the cave, Sawyer + and Sandell caught three young ducks, which they carried back, intending + to rear them, but they died several days later. A weary tramp brought us, + thoroughly tired, to the Shack, where Hamilton had an excellent meal + awaiting us. + </p> + <p> + The weather during January was rather trying. Precipitation in the form of + either rain, hail, sleet or snow occurred on twenty-six days, sometimes + all forms being experienced on the same day. As a result, the supply of + water was well maintained; in fact, the amount caught exceeded the + consumption and we finished the month with the tank almost full. Gales + were experienced on eight days, the maximum wind-force being forty-two + miles an hour. The sky was mostly heavily clouded or absolutely overcast + and on many days the sun was not seen. Fog hung about the hills almost + continuously, and driving mist accompanied the northerly winds. + </p> + <p> + January 24 was a glorious day, calm and sunny, with a maximum temperature + of 51.3 degrees F. The habit of former days induced Sandell and myself to + have a dip in the surf, but as the temperature of the water was about 42 + degrees F., we stayed in as many seconds. The mean temperature for the + month was 44.9 degrees F.; the minimum being 35.5 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + My first view of the island when the 'Aurora' arrived in December 1911 + left rather an agreeable impression. The day of our approach was marked by + fine calm weather and the dark-green tussock-clad hillsides were rather + attractive. On the other hand, one was immediately struck with the entire + absence of trees, the steep precipices, cliffs and the exceedingly rugged + nature of the coastline. + </p> + <p> + Closer scrutiny shows that the tussock grass radiates closely from a + semi-decayed mass of leaf-sheaths, with the blades of grass shooting + upwards and outwards as high as three or four feet. Scattered through it + are patches of Stilbocarpa polaris, locally known as Maori cabbage. It is + of a more vivid green than the tussock and is edible, though somewhat + stringy and insipid. Our sheep ate it readily, even nibbling the roots + after the plant had been cropped down. + </p> + <p> + There were several Victoria penguin colonies round about the rocky faces + of the hills in the vicinity of the Shack, and their hubbub and cackling + uproar were something to remember. The rearing of the young appeared to be + rather a busy process. The young ones look like bundles of down and seem + to grow at a remarkable rate, while the attempt of the parent to shelter + the usual two chicks is a very ludicrous thing to watch. + </p> + <p> + The material for the nest made by these birds seems to depend almost + entirely on its immediate surroundings. The rookery is established on a + broken rocky face close to the water's edge and the nests are made under + rocks, in niches and passages, as well as amongst the tussock growing on + the rocks. Those under the rocks are constructed of small stones and a few + blades of grass, while those in the passages and fissures are usually + depressions in soft mud. Amongst the tussock a hole is first made in the + soft earth and then neatly lined with blades of grass. + </p> + <p> + The birds lay two or three eggs of a white or greenish-white colour, but I + have never seen three chicks hatched. The eggs are edible, and we used + many dozens of them during our stay. + </p> + <p> + The period of incubation is about five weeks, and male and female take + turns at sitting. A young one is fed by placing its beak within that of + the parent bird where the food—mainly crustaceans—is taken as + it regurgitates from the stomach of the latter. + </p> + <p> + Although the smallest species on the island, the Victoria penguins are the + most spiteful, and a scramble through the rookery invites many pecks and + much disturbance. They have a black head and back, white breast and yellow + crest, the feathers of which spread out laterally. During the moulting + season they sit in the rookery or perched on surrounding rocks, living + apparently on their fat, which is found to have disappeared when at last + they take to the sea. They come and go with remarkable regularity, being + first seen about the middle of October, and leaving during the first week + of May. The same rookeries are occupied year after year, and the departure + of the birds adds to the general desolation during the winter months. + </p> + <p> + Their destination on leaving the land is still a mystery. Although they + are never seen, it is conjectured that they spend the winter at sea. Their + natural enemy in the waters round Macquarie Island is the sea-leopard, and + the stomachs of all specimens of this animal taken by us during the + penguin season contained feathers. + </p> + <p> + The presence of numerous bones just at the rear of the Shack pointed to + the fact that here must have been at one time the site of a King penguin + rookery. As many of our potatoes and onions were sprouting in the bags, I + determined to dig a portion of this area and plant the most "progressive" + of these vegetables. The sandy soil did not appear to contain much + nutriment, but I thought that something might be gained by giving it a + trial. + </p> + <p> + On the night of February 2, Sawyer reported that he had heard the + Wellington wireless operator calling Suva station, but, as no further + signals were heard from anywhere, he was inclined to the idea that it was + the experience of a "freak night." In explanation of this term, I may say + that it is used in reference to nights on which the atmospheric conditions + are abnormally favourable for wireless work. + </p> + <p> + The news was particularly encouraging, and for the next few days we were + on the tip-toe of expectation. + </p> + <p> + In the early morning of the 5th a howling gale sprang up and, increasing + in force as the day wore on, rendered work impossible. A tremendous sea + worked up, and the ocean for a distance of a mile from shore was simply a + seething boil of foam. Huge waves dashed on shore, running yards beyond + the usual marks, and threatening to sweep across the isthmus. Masses of + tangled kelp, torn from the outlying rocks, washed backwards and forwards + in the surf or were carried high up among the tussocks. The configuration + of the shingly beach changed while one looked at it. The tops of the waves + could be seen flying over Anchor Rock, seventy feet high, and spray was + blowing right across the isthmus. + </p> + <p> + On the advice of the sealers we had shifted our stores farther back from + the beach and it was just as well we did so, as the waves reached to + within a few feet of the nearest box. Meanwhile I began to wonder how our + benzine and lubricating oil were faring. Both had been stacked in cases + among the tussock and rocks, well back from the waters of Aerial Cove on + the western side of Wireless Hill. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, Hamilton, Sandell and I went round in that direction the + following morning, while Sawyer made his way up to the wireless station to + see if there were any damages there. We worked along round the cliff-front + through a cave rejoicing in the name of "Catch Me," from the fact that the + waves rushed into it, frequently catching and thoroughly wetting any + unfortunate taken off his guard. A massive rock, evidently broken from the + roof, lay right across its centre, while on either side of the obstruction + were masses of greasy decaying kelp. We were "caught" and floundered about + in the kelp while the water surged around us. Arriving at the Cove, we + found that several cases were missing. One was discovered buried in kelp, + and a little later we came upon a tin battered almost out of recognition. + The loss was not serious, but the precaution was taken to shift the oil + still farther back. + </p> + <p> + While we were engaged on this task, Sawyer appeared on the front of the + hill above and signalled to us that the aerial had been blown down. The + three-inch rope keeping the aerial taut had broken off close to the bridle + and torn the halyard with it. It meant that some one would have to climb + the mast to pass a rope through the block, and the wind was at this time + too strong for anything to be done. + </p> + <p> + On February 7, Blake and Hamilton, who had been making preparations for + several days past, set out for Sandy Bay, intending to do some work in + that locality. Their blankets, sleeping-bag, instruments and other gear + made rather heavy swags, but they shouldered them in true Murrumbidgee + style and tramped away. + </p> + <p> + Sandell, Sawyer and I went up Wireless Hill to fix the aerial. Sandell, + the lightest of the three, was being hoisted up the first section of the + mast with some one-and-a-half-inch rope when the hauling-line gave way. + Fortunately, he had a strap securing him to the mast, otherwise his fall + would have been from twenty feet. This was the only rope we had, so we had + to think of some other means of reaching the top. After a short + discussion, I suggested that decking-spikes should be secured from the + wreck of the Clyde and driven into the mast at intervals. The idea was + followed with great success, and Sandell was able to run the halyard + through the block at the top (ninety feet). The aerial was then hauled + into position, the stay-wires were tightened, an extra "dead man" was put + in and the station was once more ready for work. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton returned from Sandy Bay on the 11th laden with botanical trophies + and four specimens of a small land bird which we had never before seen. He + and Blake, who remained behind, had fixed up the hut there so that it + afforded decent shelter. + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 13th what we had long expected happened. Wireless + communication was established for the first time, with a ship—s.s. + 'Ulimaroa'. Sandell and Sawyer were complimented on their success. + </p> + <p> + On the following night communication was held with Sydney, s.s. + 'Westralia', s.s. 'Ulimaroa' and H.M.S. 'Drake'; the latter very + courteously sending us time-signals. We heard that a wireless station had + just been established in Melbourne, and that the Hobart station would be + working in about one month. It was with the latter station that we + expected to do most of our business. There was great joy in the camp now + that this stage of practical efficiency was reached and because we were no + longer isolated from the world. + </p> + <p> + Blake came back from Sandy Bay on the 16th with news that he had almost + finished the survey of that section. Foggy or misty weather gave him a + good deal of trouble in getting sights with the theodolite, and it became + part of his future programme to devote the "impossible" days to plotting + data, writing up field-notes, and making geological collections. + </p> + <p> + The afternoon of the 17th was fine, and I went along the beach towards + West Point and found it very rough travelling. Hundreds of sea elephants, + mostly of the season's young, lay about in the tussock or amongst the + rocks. The young, silver-grey in colour, looked very sleek and fat. The + adults consorted in groups of from eight to ten, packed closely and fast + asleep. They seemed to fairly luxuriate in a soft, swampy place and were + packed like sardines in some of the wallows. + </p> + <p> + Large numbers of skua gulls, creating a dreadful din, drew my attention to + a spot amongst the rocks, and, on nearing it, I found them squabbling + around the carcase of a xiphoid whale, about sixteen feet long, which had + been cast up apparently only a few hours before. + </p> + <p> + The skuas, as they are commonly called, are large brown birds which resort + to the island in great numbers for the purpose of breeding. They stay + longer than any other migrant, being absent only three months during the + depth of winter. Returning early in August, they do not start nesting + until the beginning of October. The nests, nicely made of grass and plant + leaves, are generally built on the terraces and slopes amongst the hills. + The ideal site, however, is a pleurophyllum flat adjoining a penguin + rookery. Two or three eggs of a brown or greenish-brown colour with darker + spots or blotches are laid about the end of October, and, from this time + till the chicks are reared, the parent exhibits much annoyance at the + presence of any person in the vicinity. They utter shrill cries and swoop + down continuously in an attempt to strike the invader with their wings. + Several of our party received black eyes as a result of attacks by skuas. + </p> + <p> + The young grow rather quickly, and not much time elapses before they leave + the nest to stagger round and hide amongst the vegetation. The parents fly + down and disgorge food, which is immediately devoured by the young ones. + The skuas are bare-faced robbers and most rapacious, harassing the + penguins in particular. They steal the eggs and young of the latter and + devour a great number of prions—small birds which live in holes in + the ground. The skuas are web-footed, but are very rarely seen in the + water. + </p> + <p> + Towards the end of the month, Blake spent two days at Sandy Bay and then + returned to work up his results. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton, in order to get into close touch with another species of + penguin, stayed several days at "The Nuggets," two and a half miles down + the eastern coast. A creek flows into the sea at this point, and many + Royal penguin rookeries are established along its course. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, many improvements had been effected in the interior of the + Shack. Shelves lined the walls wherever it was convenient to have them, + and many perishable foodstuffs had been brought inside. Comfort, after + all, is but a relative matter, and, as far as we were concerned, it was + sufficient. + </p> + <p> + Our clothing was all that could be desired, with the exception, perhaps, + of the boots. In the equipment were included one pair of sea-boots, one + pair of raw hide kneeboots and two pairs of rawhide hunting boots. The + latter were not heavy enough, and soon showed the effect of travelling + from a water-logged surface to one of rock and vice versa. In fact, our + boots were very rarely dry on Macquarie Island. + </p> + <p> + An event of some moment occurred on the 28th. The fowls, in order to + justify our confidence in them and as a return for our constant care, + commenced to lay and, strange to say, all began to lay at the same time. + Ma, who was greatly concerned during the turn of affairs, suffered from + prolonged attacks of cackling. + </p> + <p> + During the opening days of March, Blake and Hamilton were engaged in field + work down the island. They went as far as "The Brothers," a rocky + promontory about two miles south of Sandy Bay. Wekas were so plentiful + that they lived almost entirely on them. Blake, on returning to the Shack, + had a badly blistered heel which kept him indoors for a few days. + Hamilton, who had secured a goodly number of specimens, had to attend + immediately to their preservation. + </p> + <p> + There were many rats on the island and we frequently heard them scuttling + about on the ceiling of the Shack and slithering down between the lining + and the wall. Hitherto they had contented themselves by doing this, but on + the night of the 7th several of them flopped one after another into the + hut, awakening the inmates. On getting out to investigate I found a hole + through the lining, about seven feet from the floor, and two or three were + rustling about on the shelves. After much shifting of boxes and searching + behind tins, the intruders were killed. + </p> + <p> + On March 10 our station held communication with Suva at a distance of two + thousand four hundred miles; a remarkable performance for a + one-and-a-half-kilowatt wireless set. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton and I set out for West Point and Eagle Cave on the 11th with the + object of examining the flora of the locality and, incidentally, to shoot + ducks which frequent the pools on the "Feather Bed" terrace. The weather + was dull and misty and the walk very uncomfortable. We made our way across + this treacherous tract, often sinking kneedeep. As we neared the first + pool a duck rose and immediately paid the penalty. Although we saw at + least two hundred, only one was shot, owing to the fact that there is no + cover about and the ducks are too easily scared. + </p> + <p> + Close to Eagle Cave Hamilton gathered some plant specimens and, after + lunching, we set off home. Light, steady rain set in about 3 P.M. and wet + us thoroughly. We travelled back along the coast, finding it fearfully + rough but not so tiring as walking on the terrace. + </p> + <p> + Heavy snow fell during the night of the 11th. Among other things we learnt + by wireless that Amundsen had returned to Hobart with the news that he had + reached the South Pole. + </p> + <p> + Blake had just recovered from his blistered heel when he had the + misfortune to meet with a slight accident. He and Hamilton were engaged + cutting a track through the tussock from the Shack to the beach, when the + spade wielded by Hamilton struck Blake's foot, cutting through the boot + and inflicting a wound on the great toe. It was treated antiseptically and + bound up; Blake being laid up for a few days. + </p> + <p> + Cooking was still on the up grade. Everybody, as his turn arrived, + embarked on something new. Blake turned out a magnificent meat pudding + during his week, and Sawyer manufactured a salmon kedgeree. Sandell's + treacle pudding and Hamilton's soda rolls and date pudding were all + equally good, while I fairly surpassed myself with a roly-poly and some + pancakes. + </p> + <p> + Hitherto, Sawyer and Sandell had been coming down to the Shack each night + after finishing the wireless work, but on account of the bad weather they + determined to sleep up there and, with that end in view, each built a bunk + for himself; Sawyer, in the operating-hut, had ample room for the + improvement, but Sandell had more difficulty in the engine-hut, finding it + necessary to add a small structure to the original one. + </p> + <p> + Good wireless work was now being done, and almost every ship trading to + eastern Australian ports gave us a "call up." Much difficulty was + experienced with the mast's stays, which frequently required tightening on + account of the "deadmen" working loose in the yielding peaty soil. There + were seven stays required for each mast, and Sandell spent much time in + attending to them. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton had found, some weeks previously, several nests of the sooty + albatross along the cliff-front on the eastern side of Wireless Hill, and + on the 21st he visited them for the purpose of photographing the young in + the nest. They were still in the downy stage, and vomited vigorously on + being approached. + </p> + <p> + These birds build their nests on ledges along the face of a steep cliff + and always betray the whereabouts of their nesting-place by wheeling and + soaring around the vicinity. When sitting, the bird utters piercing calls + for its mate and is thereby easily located. They make a nest of grass, + generally at the root of a tussock growing on the cliff-front, and when + the building is in progress the two birds sit side by side entwining their + necks, rubbing beaks and at intervals uttering their harsh cries. One can + approach and catch them quite easily, either at this time or when sitting. + The female lays one large white egg, which has a peculiar and rather + disagreeable odour. They have beautiful slaty or bluish-gray plumage with + a dark soot-black head, while encircling the eye is a white ring which + stands out conspicuously from the dark feathers surrounding it. Like most + other sea-birds they have the rather revolting habit of vomiting + quantities of partly digested food and fluid when an attempt is made to + get close to them. In this respect old and young are alike. Their food is + procured at sea, and consists of the small forms of marine life. + </p> + <p> + Sandell and Hamilton went round to Aerial Cove on the 25th to collect + shells and to search for the missing lubricating oil. When coming home, + after a successful day, they discovered a cave quite close to Catch Me. A + lantern was secured from the Shack and they went back to examine it. It + penetrated for a considerable distance and opened out on the hill side + about eighty feet above sea-level. Many rocks hung down from overhead, and + altogether it appeared a very unsafe place. Blake went along later and + collected specimens from its floor. + </p> + <p> + We built a kind of annex to the Shack out of the cases of provisions; each + case being numbered and a list being drawn out setting forth the contents + of the case. This list was nailed on to the wall inside, and besides being + convenient for procuring the provisions, gave the cook, in a coup-d'oeil, + exact information and afforded him a glorious scope. + </p> + <p> + With regard to the coal-supply, our allowance at Macquarie Island had been + reduced by one-half, on account of the large amount of wreckage lying on + the beach. The weekly cook limited himself to three briquettes, and these + he supplemented with sea elephant blubber and wood, which he gathered and + cut up for use. + </p> + <p> + Each man commenced his cooking week on Saturday morning, and continued + until the following Friday night, when, after having cleared up, washed + the towels and cleaned the stove, he retired. The incoming cook, who for + half an hour had been prowling about keenly observant of "overlooked" + dirty "things" and betraying every sign of impatience to make a start, + proceeded at once to set a batch of bread, sufficient for one week, which + was baked early on Saturday morning. Five loaves had to be baked, and as + only two could be dealt with at a time, the chance of producing at least + one doughy loaf was reasonably high until every one became a master baker. + </p> + <p> + For a time we had been rather hard put to it in the matter of having + baths, but the disability had been overcome by means of sawing a cask in + two; an expedient which answered very well. The bath was also used as a + wash-tub, each man taking charge as his cooking week came round. The + clothes were dried inside the Shack along a number of strings arranged at + the back of the stove. Darning and mending took a little time, and our + experiences in this direction were such as to demonstrate the wisdom of + putting in "a stitch in time." + </p> + <p> + In going over to the meteorological screen one morning I saw a giant + petrel flapping about in the tussock, gorged to such an extent that it + could not rise. I killed the loathsome bird with the rib-bone of a sea + elephant, and Hamilton made a fine specimen of it later on. + </p> + <p> + These birds, properly called giant petrels, are usually known as "nellies" + or "stinkers"; the latter title being thoroughly justified on account of + the disagreeable smell which comes from them. As may be inferred from the + name, they are the largest of all the petrels, and measure about seven + feet from tip to tip when on the wing. The colour ranges through various + shades from almost pure white to a dark greyish-brown; some even appearing + almost black. Very large and ungainly when on the ground, they become most + graceful when in the air, and soar about without the slightest effort even + on the stormiest days. I have seen them flying into a forty-mile wind with + absolute ease, never moving a wing, but occasionally adjusting their + balance. They are gross scavengers, and eat apparently for the sake of + eating. A carcase on the rocks or beach attracts them in large numbers, + and very soon they can be seen pulling and tearing at it until thoroughly + gorged, when they waddle away into the water and sit there wholly unable + to rise till digestion takes place. If disturbed, they immediately + disgorge and fly off. They nest on the ground and lay one large white egg. + When sitting, they are reluctant to leave the nest and will squat there, + vomiting evil-smelling, partly digested food and fluid at any intruder. + The young, even in the downy stage, have the same habit. + </p> + <p> + When mating they go on with a queer kind of performance, which consists of + running around each other on the shore with wings outspread as if + displaying their charms, finally flying off or waddling into the water. + </p> + <p> + The persistently windy weather during March had an effect on everything + exposed to its force. Sandell discovered on the 29th that the rope holding + the wireless aerial had cut through, leaving only one strand, which now + bore all the strain. It was just a matter of days before it would part, + and, with a view to preventing a repetition of February's happening, we + went up to lower the aerial, but the frayed portion of the rope would not + pass through the block, so we had to leave it as it was and wait for the + inevitable. + </p> + <p> + Exceptionally low tides at the end of the month gave Hamilton a fine + opportunity of collecting marine specimens, and he secured amongst many + other things some striking anemones. Some difficulty was experienced in + preserving them, as they lost colour and shrivelled up. But a special line + of treatment was attended by fairly successful results. They were put in + shallow dishes into which sea-water was poured. Very soon they attached + themselves to the bottom and began to expand, finally opening out to the + fullest extent. With a view to narcotizing them while in this condition, + menthol was applied to the water but did not seem to have much effect. + Chloral hydrate was found to give the best results. It killed them all, + but, before dying, they elongated and detached themselves from the bottom + of the dish; after which they were taken out and placed in formalin for + preservation. + </p> + <p> + Blake had very little opportunity of doing much survey work during the + month, as he was hampered by a sore foot and the weather was wretched. He + therefore spent most of his time plotting data, making geological + investigations and collecting and naming specimens. + </p> + <p> + He and Hamilton had so far confined their attention to the northern half + of the island, and had resolved to complete the study of this area before + tackling the southern half. + </p> + <p> + The weather throughout the month was rather severe, and only two days were + really appreciated. Precipitation occurred on twenty-five days, but the + worst feature was the continuity of strong winds, which however did not + reach gale-force on more than three occasions. Much snow and hail fell, + the former accompanying winds with a southerly component, while with the + north-westers came the depressing mist or misty rain which is such a + characteristic of the place. Temperatures, as might have been expected, + were beginning to go down, and we experienced several very cold days. The + average temperature for March was 41.8 degrees, while the highest was 46.9 + degrees and the lowest 35.3 degrees F. on the 24th. + </p> + <p> + At 10 P.M. on April 1 the rope supporting the aerial parted. Sawyer and + Sandell were on duty at the time, but of course suspended operations + immediately. As before, the halyard also carried away and Sandell + henceforth resolved to shackle one end of the aerial to the mast, using a + short length of chain instead of the rope. The wreck of the Clyde was once + more our standby, providing a suitable length of chain and four shackles. + After completing this job, they had very little subsequent trouble with + the aerial. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton and Sawyer caught several three-pound fish on April 2, and + Sandell served them in good style. They were good eating, but, + unfortunately, were very much worm-infested. These parasitical worms are + about an inch and a half long and taper to a point at each end. They + penetrate right through the flesh and are plainly noticeable after the + fish is cooked. One has to dodge the worms as the meal proceeds: either + that or persuade oneself that they do not matter. + </p> + <p> + The flowing contours of the land in the vicinity of "The Nuggets" + suggested glacial action to Blake, and on the 4th, while making geological + investigations in that locality, he lit upon a well-defined basal moraine. + Needless to say he was very interested in the discovery, and brought home + a number of polished, striated boulders as convincing evidence of his + theory. + </p> + <p> + It was rather disappointing to find that the vegetables we had planted + were making little progress. They would shoot up at first very strongly, + like the "seed which fell on stony ground," but, as soon as a gale arose, + the tops turned black and shortly afterwards withered away. It was + apparently an effect of the salt spray which, in rough weather, used to + blow across the isthmus. Hamilton planted some willows and other cuttings, + which shared the same fate. + </p> + <p> + The winter had now arrived in real earnest, and the months which followed + were punctuated by a succession of gales, while we came to recognize that + it was an exceptional day when the hills were not shrouded in mist. The + only thing to do was to brace oneself up for the ordeal and to put a good + foot forward. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI A LAND OF STORM AND MIST + </h2> + <h3> + by G. F. Ainsworth + </h3> + <p> + A Heavy north-west gale was experienced on April 12, the wind attaining a + force of over fifty miles an hour. + </p> + <p> + As usual, a tremendous sea worked up very quickly, and sheets of spray + shredded across the isthmus. About 2 P.M. the wind shifted to west and + later to south-west; these changes being accompanied by fierce hail and + squalls of snow. During the night the wind moderated, heavy snow fell and, + when morning dawned, all the pools were frozen over and the island was + draped in white. It was the heaviest fall we had so far experienced. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th Hamilton and I shot several gulls for specimens. + </p> + <p> + The Dominican or black-backed gulls are very numerous and remain on the + island all the year round. They are rather pretty, being snow-white, + except on the upper part of the wings and back. Ordinarily their food is + obtained from the water, but at Macquarie Island they live almost entirely + upon the carcases left by the sealers, and are usually seen defending + their rights against skuas and giant petrels. They build nests of tussock + on rocks close to the water or maybe on the ground. Three eggs, much like + those of the skua in colour, but with a greener tint and smaller, are + laid, but generally only two are hatched. The young leave the nest early + and hide amongst the rocks, whither the old ones come to feed them. + </p> + <p> + We now considered it advisable to prepare for the winter, and with that + end in view papered the inside of the Shack in various places. As the cold + winds were particularly searching, all faulty joints in the lining were + pasted over with any kind of paper we could find. A leak down the outside + of the stove-pipe was remedied, after a good deal of trouble, by soldering + a collar round the pipe where it passed through the roof. Firing was an + important consideration, so each man now brought home several loads of + driftwood every day, until we had enough to keep us going for some months. + There was a complete boot-mending outfit which was put to a good deal of + use, for the weathered rocks cut the soles of our boots and knocked out + the hobnails. Our supply of the last-named did not last long, and several + of the party used strips of hoop-iron in their stead. + </p> + <p> + Blake found it necessary to make a kind of work-desk in his section, and + accordingly had a thorough rearrangement. He shifted his bunk up to a + height of about five and a half feet, very close to the ceiling; a fact + which necessitated some wriggling and squirming on his part to get into + the sleeping-bag. There was a fine open space left underneath, and he + managed to fix up his table very neatly. + </p> + <p> + Although they had intended to leave the work on the southern half of the + island until the spring, Hamilton and Blake set out for Lusitania Bay on + April 28 to make a short reconnoitring trip. It was thought advisable to + spend a few days down there, to improve the hut and generally speaking to + have a look-round. Both men had already visited the place and depoted some + provisions there. At 8 A.M. they started off, carrying their blankets, + sleeping-bags and a few other articles. Their proposal was to go along the + coast as far as Sandy Bay and from thence along the hill-tops for the + remaining ten miles. + </p> + <p> + Hail and snow-squalls succeeded each other at frequent intervals, and by + the time they reached Sandy Bay, all hope of proceeding along the + hill-tops was dissipated. They therefore kept near the coast. The going + was frightfully rough and the weather was very bad, so on making Green + Valley they camped in a small cave for the night. The floor was covered + with tussock, and, by searching amongst the rocks, enough pieces of + wreckage were found to keep the fire going. On the whole they passed a + fairly comfortable night. Mac proved a bit troublesome by persisting in + her attempts to curl up on or between the sleeping-bags, and by finally + eating the jam which had been saved for breakfast. The weather was quite + as bad next morning, but, after a meal of dry biscuit and cocoa, they + pushed on, taking four and a half hours to do the six miles. The next day + was spent making the hut weather-proof and fixing up a couple of bunks. + The provisions which had been cached were in good order and abundance of + firewood lay around, in the shape of old barrel-staves. Just close to the + living-hut was a works-hut containing boilers and digestors which years + ago had been used for procuring penguin oil, while there was a rookery a + few yards away from which the victims had come. + </p> + <p> + This rookery was the resort of King penguins, the largest of the four + species which are to be found on the island. They are magnificently + coloured birds, being bluish-grey on the back while the head is + greenish-black and on each side of the neck there is a brilliant yellow + band, shading to a greenish-yellow on the upper part of the breast, and + gradually merging into the glossy white of the lower part of the body. + They attain to a height of about three feet and weigh thirty pounds + approximately. The site of their rookery is a stony flat about a hundred + yards from the water, and here are collected between five and six thousand—all + that remain on the island. + </p> + <p> + They make no nest, the single egg laid being supported on the feet, and + kept in position and incubated in a kind of skin pouch which conceals it + from view. One would never guess the egg was there, for, on being + disturbed, the bird shuffles along, carrying it in the manner described. + The egg is large, tapering very much at one end and resembling a pear in + shape. They lay during December and January, and the young are hatched in + about six weeks. A peculiar feature about the young birds is that the + parents feed them for two seasons. They are covered with a coarse, + greyish-brown furry growth, and a year-old chick looks bigger than the old + bird. This furry growth is lost during the second year and the adult + plumage replaces it. The young utter a peculiar sound, something between a + squeak and a whistle. It is probable that the King penguins were never so + numerous as the Royal or Victoria penguins, but the fact remains that they + have not yet recovered from the wholesale slaughter to which they must + have been subjected over sixteen years ago. + </p> + <p> + Down on a strip of shingly beach the birds parade, when not in the rookery + or at sea getting food. Their proceedings strike one as being + extraordinarily human, while the dignity and gravity of the participants + are beyond description. On one occasion, a large number marching along the + beach were seen to halt suddenly and talk excitedly. Three birds then left + the main body, consulted together for a short time, and then separated. + The other birds immediately separated into three companies, and each + company stood behind one of the three already mentioned, who were now some + distance apart. The individuals of each party then talked among themselves + for several minutes, after which two parties joined forces and marched + off, leaving the third party staring after them. + </p> + <p> + I have lost myself for the time being amongst the penguins and shall now + return to Blake and Hamilton, who climbed on to the hill-tops the + following morning to spy out the land. The island is generally speaking + higher, and all the more elevated peaks are on the southern half. + </p> + <p> + They saw numerous rabbits, of which many were black, and Mac had the day + of her life amongst them. These animals were introduced to the island + about twenty-five years ago, and have gradually withdrawn to the lonelier + southern part, though occasionally odd ones are seen about the northern + end. They are very tame and live in holes amongst the rocks or make + burrows in the gully banks and broken hill sides. + </p> + <p> + Many lakes, frozen over, were seen, several of which were fairly large. + Altogether, the topography is similar to that of the northern end. + </p> + <p> + In an endeavour to improve the evening fare, a sweet broth consisting of + biscuit, milk, jam and sugar was tried but it was not a success; Hamilton + remarking that "even Blake had only one helping." On the following morning + they started for the Shack and chose the route on the hilltops, as the + ground was frozen hard; and, though there were frequent snow-drifts into + which they floundered occasionally, the surface for travelling was much + better than along the coast. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton slipped and hurt his ankle on the trip, and the boots of both + were just about worn out. They apprehended no difficulty in completing + their prospective work. Blake pointed out that the chart of the island + shows Lusitania Bay as being rather a large indentation, whereas in + reality it is almost a straight stretch of coast. + </p> + <p> + An earthquake shock was felt at 9.15 P.M. on the 27th. I was sitting in + the Shack writing up records at the time, and it seemed as if somebody had + struck the south-west end of the place a severe blow with a bag of sand. + Immediately afterwards a crashing sound, apparently some distance away on + the eastern side, indicated that some rocks on the cliff-front had been + dislodged. + </p> + <p> + Much rough weather was experienced during the month, and it rained, hailed + and snowed on twenty-five days. The wind attained moderate to fresh + gale-force on six days, and fog and mist were almost invariable. The + lowest temperature recorded was 32.7 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + The average relative humidity for the four months ending April 30 was 93 + per cent., leading to copious condensation on the instruments exposed to + the air. It was necessary, therefore, constantly to attend and frequently + clean the thermographs, hygrometers and the wireless plant. In the case of + the latter, loss of power occurred in the form of "brush discharge," and + Sawyer had to take great care in order to guard against this accident. He + shellacked the condensers and other exposed parts and found the proceeding + rather effective. I noticed that the drifting snow and misty rain managed + to get down the opening leading to the liquid surface of the + anemobiagraph, thus altering the zero of the recording apparatus. When + this happened the instrument had to be dismantled and set right. + </p> + <p> + We found it necessary to use sea elephant blubber in the stove in order to + warm the Shack, and a very small piece put on the fire at intervals always + ensured a good heat. Sea elephants had become scarce, so, in order to lay + in a supply of fuel for the next few weeks, we went round to Aerial Cove + on the 3rd and killed the largest animal we could find, afterwards + carrying the blubber round to the Shack. We came through Catch Me and had + the same old experience. Hamilton examined the contents of the stomach of + the sea elephant and found gravel, stones, cuttlefish, beaks and "worms" + in abundance. + </p> + <p> + A violent north-west gale during the early morning hours of the 4th + reached a maximum velocity of fifty-two miles an hour at 5.20 A.M., but at + 8 A.M. it began to weaken rapidly and an hour later had shifted to + west-south-west, coming from that point as a moderate gale for the rest of + the day. As was usual with winds having any southerly component, snow and + squalls of soft hail were experienced. With the exception of the + wind-vane, which was blown a few yards into the tussock, nothing was + damaged. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon Blake and I had a trip down to the moraine which he had + found a few days previously. After a heavy one and a half hours' walk, the + last half-mile of which was along a creek bed, with water ankle-deep all + the way, we reached the spot: the site of one of the large penguin + rookeries up on the hills at the back of "The Nuggets." The sun showed + between squalls, and Blake took some interesting photographs of rocks + showing striae and other glacial characteristics. We battled with one + enormous boulder for some time before getting it into a suitable position + for the camera, and afterwards walked right through the glacial area. The + U-shaped character of the valleys was very pronounced, while boulder-clay + obtruded itself everywhere on our notice. + </p> + <p> + Hobart wireless station was by this time in working order, a fact which + greatly facilitated wireless business. Sandell took the engine to pieces + early in the month and gave it, as well as the fittings, a thorough + overhaul and cleaning. We received a message on the 7th, saying that the + 'Aurora' was leaving Hobart on the 13th for a sub-antarctic cruise and + would call at the island. At the same time I was requested to send a list + of articles required. I found, after going through the stock and + consulting each member, that we needed nothing but strong boots, + cartridges, dungaree trousers, coarse salt, cigarettes and fresh + vegetables. + </p> + <p> + A persistent area of high pressure affected the weather conditions of the + island to the extent of shrouding us in fog from the 6th to the 10th + inclusive, and we did not catch a glimpse of the sun during that period. + The average daily temperature-range during this time was only 2.3 degrees. + Such conditions have a rather depressing effect on the spirits, but the + cheering news we received on the 7th made some amends for the lack of + sunshine. + </p> + <p> + The sun appeared at last on the 11th and shone strongly, so Blake and I + went up to Wireless Hill to take some "shots" with the theodolite. I + noticed four of our sheep on the front of the hill, and, as there should + have been nine, Sandell and I, after finishing with Blake, walked out to + North Head to see if the others were all right. We found them on the + north-east side of the hill and drove them up to the rest of the flock. + </p> + <p> + From the hill-top we could see Hamilton engaged in skinning a large sea + leopard on the coast, so we climbed down to render any necessary + assistance. It was a beautifully marked animal, about eleven feet long, + and made a fine specimen. + </p> + <p> + Sea leopards frequent Macquarie Island in great numbers from the late + winter to the early summer, and may be seen lying about, sleeping close to + the water and apparently always very tired. They do not give birth to the + young there, and from observations I concluded that they were born at sea. + We had taken female specimens on several occasions, apparently within a + few hours of parturition, and as none had been seen with newly born young, + and no islands lay within several hundred miles, it was presumed that the + birth took place in the water. Until the young one is weaned, its habitat + is evidently in the water as we never saw an adult suckling its offspring. + </p> + <p> + Sea leopards—long, lithe creatures with a reptilian cast of head—are + remarkably quick in the water. If one is disturbed on shore it opens its + mouth very wide, revealing a wicked-looking row of teeth in each jaw; the + canine teeth or tusks being very long and slightly curved. + </p> + <p> + Unlike sea elephants and seals they are solitary animals, and should + several of them be found on a small gravelly patch of beach they are seen + to be as far as possible from one another. We have never seen them attempt + to fight on the shore, but the gaping wounds and scars with which they are + frequently covered indicate that they treat each other very severely in + the water. They live on penguins, gulls, shags and fish. + </p> + <p> + I saw several shags on one occasion very busy fishing, and between diving + intervals they would sit on the water. Suddenly one disappeared under the + water and the rest flew off; but in a few seconds the one which had + disappeared was thrown into the air and caught by a sea leopard, who + played in this fashion with the maimed bird for several minutes before + devouring it. + </p> + <p> + A few days previously we had received a request from Mr. D. C. Bates, the + New Zealand Meteorologist, for a daily weather report, and from the 12th + onwards a message was sent nightly to Wellington, a distance of about + eleven hundred miles. In acknowledging these reports, subsequently, the + office referred to their immediate value in the issue of daily forecasts, + and expressed indebtedness to the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + The two species of penguins which leave the island during the winter + months had disappeared, and silence now reigned where formerly were busy, + noisy colonies. The departure of the migrants made the place seem lonelier + and, during the depths of winter when snow covers the ground and the birds + and animals are few in number, a more dreary spot would be difficult to + find. + </p> + <p> + The weather conditions were now rather severe, and as Sawyer and Sandell + worked from 8 P.M. till 2 or 3 A.M. every night and slept at the wireless + station, they were exempted from the necessity of coming down to get + breakfast during their cooking weeks. They now rested till about noon, and + arrived at the Shack every day in time for lunch. Hamilton, Blake and I, + each outside his own cooking week, took it in turns to prepare breakfast. + </p> + <p> + Blake's fieldwork at the north end, more particularly in the vicinity of + West Point and North Head, was just about finished. West Point proved to + be an area of gabbro, a coarse-grained eruptive rock representative of + basic rocks, while North Head was composed of basic agglomerate, and + volcanic bombs were numerous. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton had got together a good collection of bird specimens, and was now + in quest of skeletons. + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 13th we witnessed a rather pretty auroral + manifestation. It assumed the appearance of a Noah's ark cloud, that is, + stretching from opposite points on the horizon and appearing to converge + at each one of these points. The light was a pale yellow, no other tint + being visible. In addition, a nebulous glow appeared at intervals in the + south. + </p> + <p> + We heard on the 16th that the 'Aurora' had sailed on that day from Hobart + and would arrive at Macquarie Island in about three weeks; oceanographical + work being carried out on the trip down. This was indeed cheerful news, + and we began to look forward to her arrival. + </p> + <p> + A fresh west-south-west gale during the early morning hours of the 17th + was accompanied by soft hail and snow-squalls, and the temperature at 9 + A.M. was 31.2 degrees F. The ground was covered with snow and all the + pools were frozen over, but at 9 P.M. there was a rapid shift of the wind + to the north-west and the snow almost disappeared. Soft hail, generally a + little larger than tapioca and of the same shape, frequently fell. These + little pellets are formed of compressed snow and are commonly supposed to + be frozen cloud-particles mixed with raindrops compacted by a high wind. + </p> + <p> + On the following night, Blake and I went up to wireless Hill to take star + observations. It was very dark and the hill-front was slippery, frequent + falls being the rule. Just after setting up the instrument, the wind + freshened to such an extent that it was impossible to do anything, so we + descended very wet and muddy to the Shack, having had a rough passage. The + reason for this was that I fell on the lantern and extinguished the light. + </p> + <p> + We were supplied with two hurricane lamps which do not by any means + deserve their title as they blow out in even a moderately strong wind. + Sandell made a lantern for his own use, declaring that it was impossible + for any wind to blow it out. I firmly believed him, as it was a little + binnacle lamp placed inside a small oatmeal tin into which a cleaned + photographic plate had been fixed and with holes punched in the bottom and + top of the tin for ventilation. It was thus a lamp with two covers, and + frequent demonstrations of its ability to survive heavy blows were made by + the inventor. + </p> + <p> + During the next three days a forty-mile wind accompanied by snow, hail and + sleet was experienced and the maximum temperature on the 25th did not + reach freezing-point, the ground being firmly frozen and snow-covered. + During the evening of the last-named date the wind shifted to north-west, + and by noon on the 26th no snow remained, except on the hills. + </p> + <p> + In anticipation of the 'Aurora's arrival, Blake and Hamilton collected + some stores together in the hope that Captain Davis would transport them + down to Lusitania Bay, thus obviating the necessity of carrying them down + on foot. As Blake reckoned that he would remain there fully three months + and Hamilton about two months, it was thought that such another + opportunity might not present itself. + </p> + <p> + Through the courtesy of the naval officials, H.M.S. Drake sent us + time-signals twice a week, and though we had so far heard no sound from + Adelie Land, there was a possibility that they could receive messages from + us. Sawyer therefore sent out time-signals as a matter of routine. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton made a trip to the west coast on the 28th and returned with + thirteen wekas. Sawyer did not care for these birds, but each of the + others could account for one at a meal. They seem to be better eating if + plucked like a fowl and roasted, but the plucking takes too long and we + generally skinned and boiled them. It is advisable to hang them for + several days before cooking as it certainly makes them tender. + </p> + <p> + Rough, stormy weather prevailed during the greater part of the month and + the wind reached the force of a gale on nine days. Much snow, soft hail + and sleet fell and some very cold days were experienced. The average + temperature was 40 degrees, the maximum being 44.7 degrees and the minimum + 27.8 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + A heavy snowfall occurred during the early morning hours of June 3, and + the temperature was below freezing-point all day. In the afternoon we had + rather an enjoyable time tobogganing down a steep talus-slope on the east + coast. A considerable struggle was necessary in order to get the sledge to + the top, but the lightning slide to the bottom more than compensated for + the labour. + </p> + <p> + We made wireless inquiries concerning the 'Aurora' at night, and were + informed by Hobart that a search for the Royal Company Islands was + included in her programme. It was therefore presumed that she was engaged + in prosecuting this search and would probably not reach us for some days. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton killed a very fine sea leopard on the 5th and the skin, apart + from being unscarred, was handsomely marked. It should make a splendid + specimen. The stomach contained more than the usual number of worms and + one specimen of tape-worm, seven inches long and three-eighths of an inch + wide, was preserved. + </p> + <p> + Everything was going along in the usual placid manner on the 7th, when, as + we were just taking our seats for lunch, some one rushed in with the + information that the 'Aurora' was in sight. There was a scramble to + various points of vantage and she was soon observed coming up the east + coast very slowly. At 2.30 P.M. she dropped anchor in North-East Bay, but, + as it was blowing strongly and a nasty sea was running, no boat was + launched, though one may imagine how anxiously we watched for some + movement in that direction. As soon as it became dark a message was + "Morsed" to us to the effect that a boat would bring mails and goods + ashore in the morning if the weather moderated, and with that we had to be + content. Needless to say, business ashore was for the time being + paralysed, but a message was sent to the Secretary in Hobart advising him + of the Ship's arrival. + </p> + <p> + True to his intimation of the previous night, Captain Davis brought a boat + ashore at 9.30 A.M. and with him came several visitors who were to be our + guests for some days. They were Mr. E. R. Waite, Curator of the Canterbury + Museum and his taxidermist, and Mr. Primmer, a cinematographer. + Conspicuous in the boat was a well-laden mail bag and no time was lost in + distributing the contents. Letters, papers, and magazines were received by + every member of the party, and all the news was "good." Some stores were + brought along and, after getting these ashore, we took the visitors across + to the Shack and invited them to make themselves at home. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis also came along to the Shack and afterwards looked over the + wireless station. He returned to the ship just after lunch, and Sandell, + Sawyer and Blake took the opportunity of going on board. Hamilton, in the + meantime, piloted the visitors on a short trip round to Aerial Cove, + introducing them to Catch Me, where they were duly baptized. They + afterwards climbed up Wireless Hill and had a look at the station, + returning to the Shack much impressed with the rough nature of the + country. + </p> + <p> + Blake went off to the ship again, taking the stores which had been got + ready for transport to Lusitania Bay, as the captain had agreed to land + them when he visited there in a few days' time. + </p> + <p> + Amongst the cases which were landed was one containing the recording + apparatus for the tide-gauge. The other parts of this instrument had been + left on the island in December, but for some reason the clock and charts + had gone astray and were not found till the vessel was being unloaded in + Adelie Land. Some thermometers and a Robinson anemometer had also been + overcarried and, when they came to light, the latter was immediately + placed in commission. + </p> + <p> + Captain Davis sent a boat ashore on the morning of the 12th with an + invitation to come on board and lunch. I accordingly went out to the + vessel and, after lunching, had a thorough look over her, mentally + contrasting her spick-and-span appearance at the time with what it had + been when I left her in December. I went ashore again in the afternoon and + assisted the visitors to get their loads down to the boat, as they were + returning to the ship, which was leaving next morning on a sounding trip + down the island. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th we started to carry the stores across to the Shack on our + backs. We soon realized that seventy or eighty pounds was not a light load + over a half-mile stretch of rough, shingly beach, but succeeded in + transporting the onions, apples and potatoes before finishing for the + night. The other articles were brought over during the next two + afternoons. + </p> + <p> + The tide-gauge pipe, weighing about six hundredweights, and the box for + the housing of the recording gear had been landed in December round in + Aerial Cove, where a site had been chosen for the erection of the gauge. + Experience showed me that the place was unsuitable, so I took Hamilton, + Sandell and Sawyer round to the cove on the 15th and we decided, as we had + no boat, that it was impossible to carry the pipe round to the east coast. + </p> + <p> + I had been making some tidal observations on an upright, fixed in a + comparatively quiet spot on the east coast, and it was here that I + contemplated erecting the gauge. Two snow-gauges, eight inches each in + diameter, were amongst the meteorological equipment and it appeared that + if these two were soldered together a suitable pipe could be made. + Further, the pipe was to be protected from the violence of the seas by + planks fixed round it. Sandell agreed with the idea and forthwith set + about soldering the two together and making a suitable float, the one + supplied being too wide. All that now remained was to erect the gauge. + </p> + <p> + The two following afternoons were devoted to stowing the new stores. We + carried everything across and stacked them at the south-west end of the + Shack. Unfortunately, the boots which we had ordered did not come, but + Captain Davis let us have five pairs of light bluchers out of the ship's + stores, and we reckoned that these with extra soles and a few hobnails + would hold out till August or September, when a sealing vessel was + expected. + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' returned from the south of the island on the 19th and + reported having had a rough experience in the north-east to south gale + which blew on the two previous days. The wind came out of the north-east + very suddenly on the 17th, and some very strong squalls were experienced. + A calm prevailed for several hours in the evening, but a south-east gale + then sprang up and blew all day on the 18th, gradually working into the + south and dying away during the night. + </p> + <p> + Early on the 20th the 'Aurora' steamed out of the bay, bound north as we + thought, but she returned again in the evening, and we signalled to know + if anything were wrong. They replied, "All well, but weather very bad + outside." She lay at anchor in the bay all next day as it was snowing and + blowing very hard from the south-west, but at 8.45 A.M. on the 22nd she + disappeared in the north and we did not see her again for some months. A + few hours after her departure the wind increased in force, and a + continuous gale raged for the next five days. + </p> + <p> + Sandell and I now made a start at erecting the tide-gauge, and after the + lapse of five days got the instrument into position. We could work on it + only at low tide, for much rock had to be chipped away and numerous wire + stays fixed. The work was therefore of a disagreeable character. Its + appearance when finished did not by any means suggest the amount of + trouble we experienced in setting it up, but the fact that it stood the + heavy seas for the following eighteen months without suffering material + damage was a sufficient guarantee that the work had been well done. + </p> + <p> + A tremendous sea was running on the 25th as a result of the previous two + days' "blow" and a heavy gale still persisting. Spray was scudding across + the isthmus, and the sea for a mile from the shore was just a seething + cauldron. The wind moderated somewhat on the 26th, but strong squalls were + experienced at intervals throughout the day, and on the 27th a strong wind + from the south-west brought rather heavy snow. + </p> + <p> + On the following day a westerly gale sprang up which shifted suddenly to + south-south-west and south-west in the evening and was accompanied by + fierce hail and snow-squalls throughout the night. Without moderating to + any extent the gale continued to blow on the 29th and passed through west + to west-north-west, finally lasting till the end of the month. + </p> + <p> + Something in the nature of a "tidal" wave occurred during the night of the + 28th, for, on rising the following morning, I was considerably astonished + to see that the sea-water had been almost across the isthmus. To effect + this, a rise of twenty or twenty-five feet above mean sea-level must have + taken place and such a rise appeared abnormally high. Our coal heap, which + we had hitherto regarded as perfectly safe from the sea, was submerged, as + shown by the kelp and sand lying on top of it, and the fact that seven or + eight briquettes were found fifteen feet away from the heap. + </p> + <p> + Nothing at the wireless station was damaged and work went on as usual. The + wind used to make a terrific noise in the aerial wires, but this did not + affect the transmission of messages. The howling of the wind round the + operating-hut interfered with the receiving, at times making it extremely + difficult to hear signals; particularly on nights not favourable for + wireless work. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton was at this time concentrating his attention on shags or + cormorants. This species of cormorant is peculiar to the island, being + found nowhere else. They are blue-black, with a white breast, and on the + head they have a small black crest. At the top of the beak are golden + lobes, while the skin immediately round the eye is pale blue. They remain + on the shores of the island all the year and nest on the rocks in or very + close to the water. They form rookeries and build nests of grass, laying + three eggs about the end of November. The period of incubation is six + weeks. They live entirely on fish, and, on that account, neither the birds + nor the eggs are palatable. They are very stupid, staring curiously till + one gets almost within reach of them, when they flap heavily into the + water. They are easily caught when sitting on the nest, but a shag + rookery, like most other rookeries, is by no means a pleasant place in + which to linger. + </p> + <p> + I had the satisfaction of getting the first record from the tide-gauge on + the first day of July, but the clock worked erratically, requiring some + attention. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton had a lobster-pot set some distance from the shore and anchored + to a float, but unfortunately the pot was lost in the rough seas at the + end of June. He had a couple of fish-traps also, but, in view of this + disaster, he decided to set these in Aerial Cove, where the water was + quieter. Having a couple of sea leopard heads which required macerating, + he baited the trap with them and lowered it into the water, securing it to + the rock with a steel wire. + </p> + <p> + Taking advantage of a bright sun on the following day, Blake and Hamilton + went to "The Nuggets" and took some geological and biological photographs, + which on being developed turned out well. They had occasion to enter one + of the unoccupied huts down there and found a wild cat a little more than + half grown, which they caught and carried home with them. He was of the + usual tabby colour and by no means fierce, quickly yielding to the coaxing + treatment of his captors. He made himself quite at home in the Shack, and + we looked forward to a display of his prowess as a rat-catcher. + </p> + <p> + A bright display of the aurora occurred on the night of July 4, the + ribbons and streamers of light being well defined and occasionally + slightly coloured. We could establish no connexion between this + extraordinary outburst and the fact that it occurred on American + Independence night, but it was certainly the most energetic manifestation + of the phenomenon we had so far witnessed. Many "glows" had been seen, and + also a few displays of the arch-shaped form, but none had shown much + activity or rapid movement. + </p> + <p> + The operator was requested by the Pennant Hills high-power wireless + station at Sydney to listen for signals tapped out during the daytime, and + Sawyer spent a couple of hours on certain mornings assisting in these + tests, which were attended with some success. We occasionally received + press news from land stations or from ships passing across the Tasman Sea, + but it was only a brief summary of the cable news: enough to whet one's + curiosity, rarely ever satisfying it. + </p> + <p> + Very cold, rough weather was experienced on the 6th and 7th and a + temperature of 26 degrees F. occurred on the latter date, while the + maximum did not reach freezing-point. Much snow and soft hail fell, and + the ground set hard. The weather interfered to some extent with the + tide-gauge clock, and it became so unsatisfactory that I took it to pieces + on the 9th and gave it a thorough cleaning, after which it had a new lease + of life. + </p> + <p> + We received a message on the 11th saying that the 'Aurora' had arrived in + Dunedin, "all well," but had experienced a very rough voyage which greatly + interfered with the dredging and sounding programme. + </p> + <p> + Our tank water gave out for the first time on the 12th. The precipitation + for a fortnight had been in the form of dry powdery snow and soft hail, + the wind blowing it off the roof before it had a chance to thaw, thus + robbing us of our usual water-supply. For a while we had to use swamp + water, which contained a good many insects of various kinds and had a + distinctly peaty flavour. Finding good water running from the hill-tops + down a deep gully on the east coast, three-quarters of a mile away, we + carried drinking water from there, using the other for washing up. + </p> + <p> + The 13th was a most delightful day—bright sun, very little wind and + fresh exhilarating air. Blake and Hamilton went out early on a + photographing excursion, and, later on, the latter shot and skinned a + white giant petrel. + </p> + <p> + During the third week of July a very low tide exposed rocks, ordinarily + submerged, and Hamilton was occupied all the week in collecting marine + organisms, worms and plants and then preserving, bottling and labelling + them. + </p> + <p> + A most peculiar sight was witnessed on the 17th. Aerial Cove is a + favourite nesting-place for shags, and they may be seen in twos and threes + flying round in that direction almost any time during the day; but on this + particular day a kind of wholesale exodus from the cove took place, and + large flocks of them followed each other for a couple of hours. They + congregated on the rocks along the east coast, or settled in the water in + scores; the latter fact suggesting that the probable reason for this + extraordinary behaviour was the presence of unusual shoals of fish. + </p> + <p> + We used to relax and have a game of cards occasionally, while our small + organ became a medium of much enjoyment. All the members except one played + well enough to enjoy themselves and to give pleasure to the others. There + was a distinct predilection in favour of "ragtime" and I must say I liked + to hear that music at frequent intervals. Any one who plays a musical + instrument knows that the mood of the player is generally reflected in the + character of the music, particularly when he sits down and plays in a + casual way. + </p> + <p> + The pursuit and killing of a sheep had now become something in the nature + of an experience, and when Sandell and I went hunting for one on the 20th, + we realized it before we reached home. The flock was very timid, and when + disturbed on North Head invariably came past the wireless station close to + the engine-hut. Sandell concealed himself there with a gun, while I went + out to startle the animals. They did not fail to do their part, but + Sandell missed and the shot frightened them. He then rushed out and fired + another shot as they were running, managing to hit one, which immediately + dropped behind and ran to the edge of the cliff. We did not want to shoot + the sheep at this moment, as it would have fallen about two hundred feet, + so we cautiously approached to drive it away. The poor creature simply + took a leap out into space and landed on the talus below, down which it + rolled to the water's edge. We scrambled down and skinned it, having to + carry the carcase along the rocks at the base of the cliffs, and getting + many duckings on the way. + </p> + <p> + On July 26 I went round to Aerial Cove with Hamilton to have a look at the + fish-trap, but it had disappeared, the wire having broken, apparently + through the continual friction against rock. He had previously caught some + fish in it, and it was rather a misfortune to lose it so soon. + </p> + <p> + During the last week of the month we all had our hair cut. On arrival at + the island, several of us had it shorn very closely with the clippers and + had not trimmed it since then, growth being very slow. We had a proper + hair-cutting outfit and either Blake, Hamilton or Sandell acted as barber. + </p> + <p> + Blake was an expert with the needle and did some really neat mending, + while with the aid of some woollen thread and a mug he darned holes in his + socks most artistically. He was the authority on how, when and where to + place a patch or on the only method of washing clothes. The appearance of + his articles when washed, compared with mine, made me wonder. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton was busy, about this time, dredging in swamp pools and securing + specimens of the rockhopper or gentoo penguin. + </p> + <p> + The small gentoo penguins, like the King penguins, do not migrate and are + few in numbers. They form diminutive colonies, which are always + established on mounds amongst the tussock, or on the hill sides not far + from the water. Their eggs, which are globular in shape, are about the + best of the penguin eggs for eating, and if their nests are robbed the + birds will generally lay again, although I think they could not lay more + than four eggs. They build their nests of grass and plant leaves, and + occasionally have been known to establish a fresh rookery after their + first one has been robbed. They are more timid than any other species of + penguin, and leave the nests in a body when one ventures into the rookery. + The skuas take advantage of this peculiarity to the length of waiting + about till a chance presents itself, when they swoop down, pick up an egg + with their beak and fly off. The penguin makes a great fuss on returning + to find that the eggs are gone, but generally finishes up by sitting on + the empty nest. We have frequently put ten or a dozen eggs into one nest + and watched the proprietress on her return look about very doubtfully and + then squat down and try to tuck the whole lot under herself with her beak. + </p> + <p> + Weather conditions were rough enough during July, but occasionally a + fairly quiet day would occur. High winds were experienced on ten days, the + greatest hourly average for any twenty-four hours being thirty-two miles, + but no day averaged less than ten miles. Precipitation occurred on + twenty-one days, mostly in the form of snow and soft hail. The mean + temperature was 37.7 degrees, with extremes of 43.3 degrees and 26 degrees + F. The average percentage of cloud was 78; somewhat less than usual and + due to the greater frequency of south-west winds, which almost always + bring a broken sky. + </p> + <p> + Now that our life was one of smooth routine I devoted a good deal of time + to reducing the meteorological observations. Hourly pressure and + temperature readings as well as descriptive remarks, averages and other + details required to be summarized, and this occupied a considerable amount + of time, so I made a practice of spending a couple of hours each day on + the work, whenever possible, hoping thereby to pick up the "leeway." I did + not take too kindly to inactive writing in the Shack, but the weather + conditions were such that I was glad to stay indoors, though that meant + enduring the inevitable cold feet. The floor of the Shack was never warm, + and of course there were no carpets. + </p> + <p> + Mac developed a great animosity against the rats and thoroughly enjoyed + rooting them out on all occasions. The only explanation of their presence + on the island is that they had arrived in the ships which were wrecked + along the coasts. They got into the Shack several times, and we simply + brought in Mac and shifted things about till she caught them. + </p> + <p> + Rough weather occurred during the first week of August, and with + occasional temporary weakenings a gale blew throughout, reaching fifty + miles an hour at different times. Snow, hail and sleet fell every day, and + on the 3rd the temperature was below freezing-point all day. The Shack, + which always shook a little in exceptionally heavy gales, now vibrated a + good deal in a forty-mile wind, no doubt feeling the effects of the + beating it had undergone. + </p> + <p> + Blake found a cave running through North Head and went round, on the 5th, + to examine it. He proved it to be about sixty yards from opening to + opening, and to widen out very much inside; the roof being about fifteen + feet above the floor. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton and Sandell went along the coast on the 6th and brought home a + dozen Maori hens for the pot. Hamilton secured some spiders, parasites on + birds and many beetles under the moss and stones on the site of a penguin + rookery, besides shooting a few terns. + </p> + <p> + The tern is a very pretty bird with light grey plumage, a black head and + red beak and feet. We found no nests on the island, though the fact that + the birds remain throughout the year implies that they breed there. They + fly very fast while not appearing to do so, but their movements are by no + means graceful. They flit about over the water close to the shore, every + now and then dipping down picking up morsels and keeping up a constant, + shrill squeaking. + </p> + <p> + The sea was so high on the 7th that it reached the weight of the + tide-gauge and, lifting it up, unshipped the recording gear, as the steel + wire flew off the wheel before the latter could take up the slack. I + deemed it advisable to use stout cord instead of wire in the future and + made a protective slot for the weight. I had blocked up the seaward side + of the pipe with rocks, but found that these caused a deposit of silt so I + had to get into the water at low tide and shift them all out again to + clean away the accumulation of sand. + </p> + <p> + Very heavy snow fell during the afternoon, the flakes being the size of + half a crown. A fresh north-north-west wind dropped to a calm at 4 P.M. + and almost immediately it began to snow, the island being quite white by + 5.30 P.M. + </p> + <p> + Bright sunny intervals alternated with light snow-squalls on the 10th, and + the temperature was below freezing-point all day. It was pleasant to be + out of doors, and I walked along to the west coast to see if there were + any signs of activity amongst the sea elephants. + </p> + <p> + An unmistakable sign of the near approach of the breeding season was the + presence of an enormous old bull, almost too fat to move, lying on the + beach. Very few small ones were seen, as, on the arrival of the adult + males and females for the breeding season, the young ones leave for a + while, presumably in order to get fat for the moulting period, or because + they are afraid of the bulls, who are particularly savage at this time. + The full-grown bulls attain to a length of twenty feet, and have a fleshy + proboscis about eight or ten inches in length hanging over the mouth, + suggesting the trunk of an elephant. It is from this fact that they derive + the name of sea elephant. + </p> + <p> + There is a considerable disparity in size between the adult male and + female, the latter very rarely exceeding eleven feet, though we have seen + a few twelve and thirteen feet long. The females have no snout development + and some of them facially very much resemble a bull terrier. The adults + are called bulls and cows, while, curiously enough, in the sealers' + phrase, the offspring are referred to as pups. The places where large + numbers of them gather together during the breeding season are known as + rookeries! "Rookery" appears to me to be inapplicable to a herd of sea + elephants, though "pup" supplies a more apt description of the young. + </p> + <p> + The pups, born during September or early October, are covered with a long, + black, wavy fur, which they lose when about two months old, and in its + place comes a growth of silver-grey hair, which changes later into the + ordinary brown colour of the full-grown animal. + </p> + <p> + The old males and females leave the island about the end of January, and + are not seen again (except a few stray ones) till August in the case of + the males, and until September in the case of the females. + </p> + <p> + The fact that the bulls arrive first leads one to the conclusion that + their feeding-grounds must lie at a considerable distance and, in the + journey therefrom, the males, being the stronger, should arrive before the + females, who are heavy with young and probably make a somewhat leisurely + progress, feeding by the way. + </p> + <p> + The rookeries vary in size, containing from half a dozen to four or five + hundred cows; in the last case, of course, being an aggregation of smaller + rookeries, each with its proprietor, in the shape of an old bull, lying in + or somewhere near the centre. The normal rookery, as far as I could judge, + seemed to be one that contained about forty cows, but once the nucleus was + formed, it was hard to say how many cows would be there before the season + ended, as females keep arriving for a period of about three weeks. + </p> + <p> + The young vary in length from three and a half to four and a half feet, + are born within a few days of arrival and suckled for about a month, + becoming enormously fat. The cow, who has not eaten during the whole of + this time and has become very thin, then leaves the pup, but remains in + the rookery for about two days, after which she escapes to sea, remaining + there till the beginning of January, when she returns to the island to + moult. The pups when weaned get such rough usage in the rookery that they + soon make off into the tussock and sleep for about a month, living on + their fat and acquiring a new coat. The noise in one of the large + rookeries is something to remember—the barking of the pups, the + whimpering and yelping of the mothers and the roaring of the bulls. + </p> + <p> + Another feature in connexion with the rookery is the presence of what may + be called unattached bulls, which lie around at a little distance from the + cows, and well apart, forming a regular ring through which any cow wishing + to desert her pup or leave the rookery before the proper time has very + little chance of passing, as one of these grips her firmly with his + powerful flipper and stays her progress. The lord of the harem, in the + meantime, hastens to the scene of the disturbance, whereupon the other + bull decamps. + </p> + <p> + The sea immediately in the vicinity of a large rookery is generally + swarming with unattached bulls, who may be seen with their heads out of + the water eyeing each other and keeping a bright look out for escaping + cows. Now and again one may see a bull in the water gripping a cow with + his flipper, despite her struggles, and roaring at a couple of others who + show up menacingly quite close to him. + </p> + <p> + It may be remarked that towards the end of the season changes in the + proprietorship of a rookery are rather rapid, as continuous raids are made + by individuals from the outside. The need of continuous vigilance and the + results of many encounters eventually lead to the defeat and discomfiture + of the once proud proprietor. + </p> + <p> + I have never seen two bulls fight without first indulging in the usual + preliminaries, that is, roaring and advancing a few yards and repeating + the performance till within striking distance. Then both animals rear high + up, supporting themselves on the lower part of the body, and lunge + savagely with their whole weight each at his opponent's head or neck, + tearing the thick skin with their teeth and causing the blood to flow + copiously. Several lunges of this kind generally finish the battle, + whereupon the beaten one drops to his flippers and makes all haste towards + the water, glancing fearfully behind him on the way. We have seen bulls + with their snouts partly torn off and otherwise injured, but worse + injuries must occur in the rare, desperate battles which sometimes take + place between two very much enraged animals. + </p> + <p> + When a bull in the centre of a rookery has occasion to rush at an + interloper, he does so without regard to anything in his way, going over + cows and pups alike and very often crushing some of the latter to death. + Again, it seems as if all the outlying bulls recognize the noise of the + rookery bull, because each time he roars they all lift up their heads and + take notice, whereas others who have just been roaring have not the + slightest regard paid to them, except perhaps by one immediately + concerned. + </p> + <p> + The bull, during the breeding season, will on provocation attack a man, + and it is surprising how quickly the former covers the ground. But on the + whole he is an inoffensive animal. It is, of course, impossible to venture + into a rookery, as the cows are very savage when they have the pups with + them, but one can approach within a few yards of its outskirts without + danger. Their food consists of cuttlefish, crabs and fish, and it is + probable that they frequent the ocean where this food is plentiful, when + they are absent from the island. + </p> + <p> + It has been stated that these animals are nearly extinct, but a visit to + Macquarie Island during the breeding season would be enough to convince + anybody to the contrary. There are thousands of them, and though about + seven hundred are killed during a season, the increase in numbers each + year, on Macquarie Island alone, must be very great. + </p> + <p> + The skuas were now returning to the island and their numbers and + corresponding clamour were daily increasing. They were the noisiest and + most quarrelsome birds we had, but their advent, we hoped, marked the + return of less rigorous weather. + </p> + <p> + Blake left for Lusitania Bay on the 17th, intending to spend several + months there in order to survey and geologically examine the southern end, + so we gave him a send-off dinner. He had a very rough trip to the place, + having to spend two nights in a cave about six miles from his destination, + as a result of getting lost in a dense fog. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton made a wire fish-trap to replace the one which he had lost, and + succeeded in getting a few fish on lowering it for the first time. He + discovered parasitical mites all over them on the outside, and the flesh + contained many worms. + </p> + <p> + A heavy north-north-west gale was experienced on the 26th, but the weather + during the last three days of August was very quiet, either calms or light + winds prevailing, and we took the opportunity to do some work on Wireless + Hill. All the wire stays were tightened, and various ropes which appeared + to require attention were renewed, while, as a final improvement, the + aerial was hauled as tight as we could make it. + </p> + <p> + We heard on July 31 that the 'Rachel Cohen', a sealing-vessel, had sailed + for Macquarie Island and was bringing a few articles for us, so there was + something to which we could look forward in the immediate future. + </p> + <p> + The most remarkable feature of the month's weather was the wind, as gales + blew on eleven days, and on seven other days the velocity reached + twenty-five miles per hour. Precipitation occurred on twenty-seven days, + and the average percentage of cloud was eighty-four. The mean temperature + was 38.1 degrees with extremes of 45.3 degrees and 26 degrees F. A + prolonged display of auroral light occurred on the night of the 17th, + though no colours other than the light lemon-yellow of the arch and + streamers could be seen. + </p> + <p> + Bull elephants were now arriving in great numbers, and these monsters + could be seen lying everywhere on the isthmus, both up in the tussock, on + the beaches, and among the heaps of kelp. Now and again one would lazily + lift a flipper to scratch itself or heave its great bulk into a more + comfortable position. + </p> + <p> + The island is the habitat of two kinds of night-birds, one kind—a + species of petrel (Lesson's)—being much larger than the other, both + living in holes in the ground. They fly about in the darkness, their cries + resembling those made by a beaten puppy. The smaller bird (apparently + indigenous and a new species) was occasionally seen flying over the water + during the day, but the larger ones come out almost exclusively at night. + A light attracts them and Hamilton, with the aid of a lantern and a + butterfly-net, tried to catch some. Others swooped about, well out of + range, shrieking the while in an uncanny way. Numbers of them were secured + afterwards by being dug out of their holes, Mac being just as keen to + locate them as Hamilton was to secure them. They cannot see well during + the day, and seem to have almost lost the use of their feet. They lay two + small, white, thin-shelled eggs at the end of their burrow; and in certain + parts of the island, where the burrows are numerous, the sound made by + hundreds of them at once, during the nesting season, somewhat resembles + that made by a high-power Marconi wireless set at close range. + </p> + <p> + Before Blake left Lusitania Bay, I promised to see that the hut on Sandy + Bay was re-stocked with provisions by the middle of the month, so, on the + 8th, Hamilton, Sandell and I carried a supply of stores down there, + leaving a note which informed him that we expected the 'Rachel Cohen' to + arrive any day, and asking him to return to the Shack. On the way down we + came upon a vast quantity of wreckage piled up on the beach, midway + between "The Nuggets" and Sandy Bay. This was all that remained of the + sealing schooner, 'Jessie Nichol', which had been wrecked on December 21, + 1910. Three men were drowned, their bodies being interred among the + tussock, each marked by a life belt and a small board on which the name + was roughly carved. + </p> + <p> + On our homeward trip we caught some wekas for the pot and duly arrived at + the Shack, tired, wet and hungry. + </p> + <p> + Next day, while sitting in the Shack reducing records, I heard a yell from + Hamilton to the effect that the 'Rachel Cohen' was in sight, and about an + hour later she dropped anchor in North-East Bay. + </p> + <p> + The sea was fairly smooth and no time was lost in bringing a boat ashore + with the mails, of which each man received a share. A gang of sealers was + landed with a view to obtaining sea elephant and penguin oil. I had + wirelessed asking for a dinghy to be sent down, which would enable + Hamilton to do more marine work; and it now came to hand. Further, we + received an additional supply of photographic material and some rubber + tubing for the anemometer, but the much needed boots did not arrive. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th a strong southerly gale sprang up and compelled the 'Rachel + Cohen' to seek safety in flight; so she slipped her cable and put to sea. + She had not yet landed all the sealers' stores and was forced to hang + about the island till the weather moderated sufficiently for her to return + to an anchorage. + </p> + <p> + The gentoo penguins, which had been observed at the beginning of the month + building their nests, commenced to lay, and the first ten eggs were + collected by us on September 18. Many sea elephant rookeries were now + well-formed as the cows began to arrive about the 11th and were soon + landing in large numbers. The first pups were heard on the 20th, and Bauer + and I walked along to the rookery from which the barking came and had a + look at the newcomers. There were only four, none of which was more than a + few hours old, but they yapped their displeasure, and the mothers made + frantic lunges at us when we approached to get a close view of them. + </p> + <p> + The sealers always gave the animals time to form their rookeries and then + killed the bulls for oil. A well-conditioned full-grown animal yields + about half a tun of oil, and as the commodity when refined has a market + value of from L20 to L25 per tun, it will be seen that the industry is a + profitable one. The cows being small never have a very thick coating of + blubber, but I have seen bulls with blubber to a depth of eight inches, + and some of them yield nearly two thousand pounds, though I should + estimate the average yield at about one thousand one hundred pounds. The + sealers in the early days used to obtain the oil by cutting the blubber up + into very small pieces and melting it down in "try " pots. These pots, + many of which may be still seen about the island, were made of very thick + iron and the fuel used was the refuse taken from the pot itself. In the + present method steam digestors are used, and the oil from the melted + blubber is drawn off, after steam has been passing for twelve hours. Coal + is brought down by the sealing-vessel to be used as fuel. The "elephant + season" lasts only about three months, and within about four weeks of its + conclusion, the "penguin season" begins; the same gang of men being + employed as a rule. The most difficult operation in connexion with both of + these industries is undoubtedly the loading and unloading of the vessel. + If auxiliary power were used, the ship could then steam to within half a + mile of the shore, but as it is, a sailing-vessel has to anchor about two + miles off and the oil is towed in rafts over that distance. + </p> + <p> + We heard sounds from Adelie Land wireless station for the first time on + September 25, 1912, but the signals were very faint and all that we could + receive was: "Please inform Pennant Hills." Sawyer called them repeatedly + for several hours, but heard no acknowledgment. Every effort was made to + get in touch with them from this time forward, Sawyer remaining at the + instrument until daylight every morning. + </p> + <p> + The Royal penguins returned to the island on the 27th and immediately + commenced to make their way to the rookeries. They had been absent since + April and were very fat after their long migration. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th Blake and Hamilton started out in the dinghy for Lusitania + Bay. They had already made a step and sprit, and, with a calico sail + hoisted, the frail craft ran before a light breeze. Having a fair wind + they made good headway along the coast, dropping in at a gentoo penguin + rookery en route, and collecting about two hundred and twenty eggs. Mac + was a passenger and was a very sick dog all the trip. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after their departure, the 'Rachel Cohen', which had been blown + away on the 18th, reappeared and again anchored. The captain reported + having seen numerous icebergs, some of which were very large, about thirty + miles to the eastward of the island. The sealers immediately commenced to + get away the rest of their stores and coal and also to put some oil aboard + the vessel, but on the following day the wind increased to such an extent + that, in attempting to reach the ship with a raft of oil, they were blown + down the coast and had to beach the boat several miles away. + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 29th Adelie Land wireless station was again heard + tapping out a message apparently with the hope that some station would + receive it. All we got was: "Having a hell of a time waiting for calm + weather to put up more masts." Sawyer again repeatedly called, but they + evidently could not hear him as no reply was received, and the above + message was repeated time after time. + </p> + <p> + The weather during September was not quite so rough as that of the + previous two or three months, but misty days were very frequent. Gales + were experienced on six days and strong winds on nine days, but several + quiet periods occurred. The average temperature was 38.6 degrees, with + extremes of 44.7 degrees and 26 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + October was ushered in by a strong gale and rather heavy rain-squalls. The + 'Rachel Cohen' had a severe buffeting, though she was lying on the lee + side of the island. + </p> + <p> + Just about three-quarters of a mile to the west of the Shack were two + large sea elephant rookeries, very close to each other, and on the 3rd + Sandell and I went along to see what was happening there. We found about + two hundred and fifty cows in the nearer one, and, as closely as we could + count, about five hundred in the adjacent colony. The babel of sounds made + one feel thankful that these noisy creatures were some distance from the + Shack. Nearly all the cows had pups, some of which had reached a fair + size, while others were only a few hours old. We saw several dead ones, + crushed out almost flat, and some skuas were busily engaged gorging + themselves on the carcases. These birds are indeed professional + plunderers, and will venture almost anywhere in pursuit of food. + </p> + <p> + During the evening we again heard Adelie Land station working, and the + burden of their message to an apparently chance audience was: "We do not + seem able to get Macquarie Island, all is well, though bad weather has so + far prevented any attempt at sledging." + </p> + <p> + Sawyer again called them at regular intervals for the rest of the night, + but, as before, got no response. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton and Blake were busy at Lusitania Bay during the first two weeks + of October securing sea elephant specimens and collecting eggs. They + visited Caroline Cove where is established a giant petrel rookery + containing about four hundred birds, and gathered a large number of eggs—purely + specimens, as they are no use otherwise. + </p> + <p> + The 'Rachel Cohen' finally left us on the 8th, expecting to pay another + visit in December for the purpose of taking off the sea elephant oil + procured by the sealers. Sandell and I visited the gentoo penguin colony + in Aerial Cove during the afternoon, for the purpose of getting a few + eggs. We found plenty there and collected as many as we required. On + returning to the empty nests, the birds would first of all peer round to + assure themselves that the eggs were really missing, and then throw their + heads back, swaying them from side to side to the accompaniment of loud, + discordant cries. + </p> + <p> + Several of us started out on the 10th to visit the west coast for the + purpose of getting some wekas and, incidentally, to make any observations + possible. We saw thousands of sea elephants along the coast and passed + many rookeries of various sizes. There were a large number of wekas about, + but after shooting fourteen we were satisfied with our bag. + </p> + <p> + A westerly gale during the night proved too much for the aerial, and down + it came. Blake and Hamilton were away, so Sawyer, Sandell and I went up, + and after much battling and frequent use of the "handy billy" succeeded in + fixing things. We also re-tightened the wire stays and thoroughly + overhauled the ropes. Snow and sleet fell all the time, making the task + most disagreeable. + </p> + <p> + About the middle of the month the Royal penguins commenced to lay, and on + the 17th Sandell and I went to their rookeries at "The Nuggets" and + collected about fifteen dozen eggs, which we buried in a hole in the bank + of the creek for preservation. This species of penguin is the one which is + killed for oil, not because it is any fatter than the others, but because + it lives in such large colonies. There is one rookery of these birds on + the south end of the island which covers an area of sixteen and a half + acres, whilst at "The Nuggets" there are numbers of them scattered along + the banks of a creek which reaches the sea, aggregating ten acres. At the + latter place are situated the oil works belonging to the sealers. + </p> + <p> + From careful observation I should say that the number of birds killed + during the season would not total one hundred and fifty thousand. The + method of killing—by blows from a heavy club—is about as + humane as any that could be adopted, and the yearly increase in numbers in + the only rookeries that are being worked is certainly greater than the + decrease due to the depredations of the sealers. Apart from this, there + are acres of rookeries on the island from which not a single bird is + taken, and they go on year after year adding thousands upon thousands to + their already vast numbers. + </p> + <p> + This species resembles the others in habits, and I shall not describe them + at any length. They are of the same colour as the Victoria penguins, but + have a more orderly crest. Their rookeries are always on or very close to + a running stream which forms the highway along which they travel to and + fro. There is no policeman on duty, but a well-ordered procession is + somehow arranged whereby those going up keep to one side and those coming + down keep to the other. Once they are in the rookery, however, different + conditions obtain. Here are fights, squabbles and riots, arising from + various causes, the chief of which appears to be a disposition on the part + of some birds to loiter about. During the nesting time much disorder + prevails, and fights, in which beaks and flippers are energetically used, + may be seen in progress at various places throughout the rookery. The + nests are made of small stones, and occasionally, a bone or two from the + skeleton of some long-dead relative forms part of the bulwarks. The + attempt on the part of some birds to steal stones from surrounding nests + is about the most fruitful cause of a riot, and the thief generally gets + soundly thrashed, besides which all have a peck at him as he makes his way + with as much haste as possible from the danger-zone. As the season + advances, these rookeries become covered with filthy slush, but it seems + to make no difference to the eggs, as the chicks appear in due course. + When the moulting process is in full swing the rookeries are very crowded, + and feathers and slush then become mixed together, making the place + anything but fragrant. + </p> + <p> + A fifty-four mile gale from the west-north-west blew down on us on the + 20th, but shortly after noon it weakened, and, towards evening, with the + shifting of the wind to southwest, came squalls of sleet and snow and a + drop in temperature. Hamilton returned from Lusitania Bay in the dinghy on + the 21st, but Blake stopped there as he had not yet finished his work in + that locality. The dinghy was well laden with specimens of various kinds + and, on the way up, some wood and pickets were left at Green Valley for + future requirements. + </p> + <p> + On the 25th Sandell and I visited the west coast, but, instead of going + the usual way, we walked down the east coast and went up the creek at "The + Nuggets" with a view to having a look at the penguin colonies along its + course, finally crossing over the hills and getting into another creek, + which we followed all the way down to the west coast. Along this creek + were numerous waterfalls, one of which was quite sixty feet in height with + wind-blown spray frozen white on the rocks on either side. We came across + several giant petrel rookeries, and were treated to a display of the + "stinker's" ability to make himself objectionable. A pair of sooty + albatrosses were seen nesting on the front of a rocky steep, but on + climbing up we found that they had not yet laid. After catching some wekas + and taking a few photographs we returned to the Shack. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of the month several of us crossed the hills to the west + coast in search of plants and birds' eggs. We secured a number of plant + specimens—a further sign of the arrival of spring—including + two which bore a very small flower, and were most successful in obtaining + skuas', giant petrels' and sooty albatrosses' eggs. + </p> + <p> + During the evening I received a message from Captain Davis stating that + the 'Aurora' would visit us in about three weeks' time and inquiring if we + needed any supplies. This was entirely unexpected, as we thought that no + more would be seen of the Ship until she came to take us home at the end + of March 1913. + </p> + <p> + Earthquake shocks were felt at 1.55 A.M. and 9.35 A.M. on October 28, but + did no damage other than to bring down some loose rock. Auroral displays + were rather frequent but not very pronounced, and in most cases could only + be classed as "glows." + </p> + <p> + A bright sunny morning on the 3rd induced Hamilton and me to make a + photographic excursion along the coast. Hitherto only still-life photos + had been taken, but with the sunlight we were then having, any work was + possible, so we determined to have some "shots" at the sea elephants. They + were rather difficult subjects, strange to say, but we spent some time + amongst them and did famously, till a snow-squall made us suspend + operations. + </p> + <p> + We heard the discordant but mournful cry of a sooty albatross coming from + the cliff-front, so Hamilton climbed up and, after scrambling about for a + while, succeeded in finding a nest, which contained one egg. This led him + to look along the cliffs fronting the east coast, and on the following + morning he found several nests and caught two birds, both of which were + taken by hand while on the nest. They had beautiful plumage and made very + fine specimens. + </p> + <p> + Blake returned from Lusitania Bay during the afternoon of the 4th and + reported that he required only four or five days to complete the survey. + The configuration of the island at the southern end is vastly different to + that shown in the published charts, and this became more apparent as + Blake's figures were plotted. + </p> + <p> + The news that Piastre had won the Melbourne Cup was flashed about all over + the southern ocean during the evening, and we picked it up; but as this + was the first we had heard of the animal, nobody seemed much interested. + It certainly gave a turn to the conversation, and quite a sporting tone + permeated the discussions of the ensuing two or three days. + </p> + <p> + The subjects of discussion were usually those of environment, and most of + our talk centred round sea elephants, sea-leopards, penguins, + temperatures, wind, wireless telegraphy, fish, aurorae, exploration, + ships, Queensland and New Zealand. Sea elephants and penguins do offer + scope for a considerable amount of conversation, as one observes them + under such different circumstances, and they are so odd that something + remarkable is always associated with the sight of them. The weather, being + practically the bete noire of our existence, came in for a good deal of + abuse. Wireless telegraphy is a mighty interesting subject at all times, + and we passed many hours of our stay in discussing its future. All the + members were, allegedly, fishermen of some calibre, and when I have said + that, anybody with a knowledge of the man who claims ability as an angler + will know what all the others, in turn, had to receive with restrained and + respectful admiration. The advantages of settlement in Queensland were so + apparent to at least one member of the party that he simply could not + understand why thousands were not annually killed in the rush to get to + this, "the greatest of all the Australian States." Good old silky oak! + </p> + <p> + The scenery of New Zealand was almost as well known to us as to anybody + who has lived in the country all his life, and three of us had never been + there. We have sat round the Shack sometimes and only the roar of a sea + elephant outside reminded us that we were not, as we imagined, at a Maori + "tangi." The wages to be earned there, the delights of travelling, the + legislators, Rotorua, kauri pine, and the moon they've got in Auckland—we've + heard of all these and marvelled at them. "Kapai te Maori!" + </p> + <p> + Blake and Hamilton went to Sandy Bay in the dinghy on the 6th in order to + complete some work. They improved the hut there, to the extent of making a + fire-place and laying barrel-staves on the floor, afterwards bringing a + boat-load of timber from the 'Jessie Nichol' wreck and rigging up a board + bunk sufficiently large to accommodate both of them. + </p> + <p> + While walking down to the 'Clyde' wreck for some wood on the 7th I saw a + strange bird on the beach, and, returning to the Shack for the gun, I got + him at the second shot. He was a land bird and had evidently been blown + out of his course, as none of his kind had been seen before on the island. + </p> + <p> + On getting up on the following morning I found poor old Ma lying dead, and + the feathers which lay about indicated that she had been the victim of a + savage assault, but whether at the teeth of a dog or the beak of a skua I + was unable to determine. This was most unfortunate, as the hens had all + started to lay again two days previously; but apart from this she was a + funny old creature and one could almost hold a conversation with her, so + we regretted her loss. However, to make amends for this disaster the + Victoria penguins started to lay on the same day, and as several of their + rookeries were only a few minutes' walk from the Shack, the position was + much the same as if we owned a poultry farm. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton returned from Sandy Bay on the 17th and immediately set about + collecting shags' eggs. He visited Aerial Cove for the purpose but did not + get enough, and was compelled to go to West Point, where he gathered + twenty-four dozen for specimens. He now had a collection of eggs of all + birds which nest on the island, with the exception of the weka and the + tern. + </p> + <p> + At 6.30 P.M. on November 22 the 'Aurora' steamed into North-East Bay and + dropped anchor. Hamilton, Blake and Sawyer launched the dinghy and pulled + out to receive the mails, which they brought ashore for distribution. All + on board were well and Captain Davis sent word to say he would land in the + morning, bringing our goods and some visitors—Professor Flynn of + Hobart and Mr. Denny. + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' next day steamed round North Head and took a series of + soundings between the main island and the Judge and Clerk. These latter + islets lie about eight miles to the north of North Head, and are merely + rocks about eighty feet high upon which thousands of shags and other birds + have established rookeries. On the following morning we said good-bye to + the Ship, which weighed anchor and steamed away, leaving us once more to + our own devices. + </p> + <p> + All the flowering plants were now showing their extremely modest blooms, + and the tussock looked like a field of wheat, each stem having a decided + ear. The gentoo penguins, as well as the giant petrels, had hatched their + eggs, and the parent birds were shouldering full responsibilities. + </p> + <p> + Blake and Hamilton were now prepared for another visit to the southern + end. Blake had almost completed the chart of the island, and the + difference between it and the published chart was very striking. In the + latter case the south end was shown as being six miles wide, whereas it is + in reality only a little more than two miles across, and the width of the + island is nowhere more than three and a half miles. About twenty miles + from the southern end lie two islets known as the Bishop and Clerk. The + former, which is the larger, is covered with a growth of tussock, while + the latter is mainly bare rock. + </p> + <p> + A distinct rise in temperature was noticeable during November and the mean + worked out at 41.6 degrees, while the extremes were 49 degrees and 82 + degrees F. Strong winds were recorded on thirteen days and six short-lived + gales occurred. We had less precipitation than during any previous month, + as thirteen dry days were experienced. The average cloudiness was 93 per + cent.; largely due to the frequent foggy or misty weather. + </p> + <p> + On December 2, at 10 A.M., Blake and I packed our sleeping-bags and + blankets and started for Sandy Bay. The swags weighed only thirty-five + pounds each and we made a rather quick trip. + </p> + <p> + After repairing the dilapidated shack, we sallied out for the purpose of + catching our evening meal, and with the aid of Mac soon succeeded in + getting eight wekas. A sea elephant was then killed, and the blubber, + heart and tongue taken; the first-named for use as fuel and the others for + food. We cleaned the wekas and put them in the pot, cooking the whole lot + together, a proceeding which enabled us to forgo cooking a breakfast in + the morning. The beach was swarming with young sea elephants and many + could be seen playing about in a small, shallow lagoon. + </p> + <p> + Just south of the hut there is a sandy spit and one of the only stretches + of beach on the island, where thousands of penguins from the adjacent + rookeries were congregated, amongst them being three King penguins, which + were easily distinguishable on account of their great size. + </p> + <p> + Feeling a little weary, I sought the hut about 9 P.M. and turned into the + sleeping-bag, which was placed on a board bottom covered with tussock, + which was by no means uncomfortable. The old place smoked so much that we + decided to let the fire die down, and as soon as the smoke had cleared + away, the imperfections of the hut became apparent; rays of moonlight + streaming through countless openings in the walls and roof. + </p> + <p> + We rose at 6.30 A.M. While Blake lit the fire, I went out to fill the + billy at a small stream running out of the hills about sixty yards away. + After breakfast we set out for Green Valley, but had not gone very far + when it began to blow very hard from the south, straight in our faces, and + we scrambled on towards our destination amidst squalls of snow, hail and + sleet. Eventually we reached the valley and had a somewhat meagre lunch in + a small cave. The title "cave" rather dignifies this hole in the rock, but + it was the only friendly spot in a most inhospitable locality, and we were + inclined to be generous, + </p> + <p> + On the whole, the length of coast we had traversed was found to be as + rough as any on the island. There is not a stretch of one hundred yards + anywhere that can be termed "good going." In many places we found that the + steep cliffs approached very close to the water, and the mournful cry of + the sooty albatross could be heard coming from points high on the face of + the cliffs, while the wekas were so tame that one could almost walk up and + catch them. + </p> + <p> + A large creek whose banks are overhung with a coarse growth of fern makes + its way out of the hills and runs into Sandy Bay. Just a little to the + south of this creek Blake discovered a terminal moraine about two hundred + yards in length and fifty feet wide. It rests on sandstone about fifteen + feet above the present sea-level and the boulders consist of polished and + sub-angular blocks of sandstone and porphyry of various sizes. It + evidently belongs to the valley or to a later stage of glaciation. The + rocks along the coast are all a volcanic series, and basic dykes are + visible in many places. + </p> + <p> + We arose at 7 A.M. next day and breakfasted on porridge, weka, fried + heart, "hard-tack" and cocoa. Leaving the hut shortly afterwards we + climbed on to the hills and travelled south for several miles in order to + fix the position of some lakes and creeks. There was one lake in the + vicinity about half a mile long and to all appearances very deep. It lay + between two steep hills, and the grassy bank at one end and the small + sloping approach at the other gave it an artificial appearance, while the + water was beautifully clear and perfectly fresh. At the sloping end, + dozens of skuas were busily engaged washing themselves and the flapping of + their wings in the water made a remarkable noise, audible at a + considerable distance on the hill-tops. On returning to the hut at Sandy + Bay several rabbits secured by Mac were cleaned and put on to boil. + </p> + <p> + Next morning a dense mist shrouded the island till about 11 A.M., but the + weather becoming fine and bright, we started for the west coast about + noon. During our progress along the bed of a creek, Blake discovered what + was believed to be a glacial deposit containing fossil bones, and + considerable time was spent in examining this and attempting to extract + whole specimens, thereby making it too late to proceed to the west. On + returning to the hut we decided to pack the swags. We reached home just in + time for tea, finding that nothing unusual had occurred during our four + days' absence. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton and Blake went out fishing in the dinghy on the 9th and made a + remarkable haul of fish, sixty in number, ranging in size from a few + ounces to twelve and a half pounds. They were all of the same species, + somewhat resembling rock cod, but as usual they were covered with external + parasites, and their flesh was full of worm-cysts. Hamilton preserved a + number of them and the rest were cooked, but we did not relish them very + much and the one meal was enough. + </p> + <p> + On December 11 we had a hard gale all day, the anemometer recording + "bursts" of over fifty miles an hour frequently, while the average + exceeded forty miles an hour throughout. Twelve months ago on that day we + had made our first landing on the island from the 'Aurora', but vastly + different weather conditions prevailed at the time. + </p> + <p> + Christmas Day was now very close at hand, and as Blake and Hamilton were + going to celebrate at the other end of the island, whence they had gone on + the 10th, Sawyer, Sandell and I arranged a little "spread" for ourselves. + Sawyer produced a cake which he had received in the recent mail, and some + friend had forwarded a plum pudding to Sandell, so on Christmas Day these, + with a boiled ham, some walnuts, mince rolls and a bottle of stout were + spread on the table, which had been decorated with tussock stuck in sea + elephants' tusks. The highest temperature registered on the island during + our stay—51.8 degrees F.—was recorded on Christmas Day, and + the sun seemed so warm that Sandell and I ventured into the sea for a dip, + but the temperature of the water was not high enough to make it an + agreeable experience. + </p> + <p> + During the evening of the 26th we received a message saying that the + 'Aurora' had left Hobart on her trip south to bring back the two parties + from Antarctica, but no mention of picking us up on the return journey was + made. + </p> + <p> + The King penguins and "night birds" had laid by this time, and Hamilton + added more eggs to his collection. He found for the first time a colony of + mutton birds near the south end. He also came upon a mollymawk rookery on + the south-western point of the island, and managed to take one of the + birds by hand. + </p> + <p> + Blake and he had an accident in the dinghy on the 29th, fortunately + attended by no serious results. They had gone from Lusitania Bay to the + south end, and, while attempting to land through the surf, the boat struck + a rock and capsized, throwing them into the water. They had many things in + the boat but lost only two billies, two pannikins, a sounding line and + Hamilton's hat, knife and pipe. Their blankets floated ashore in a few + minutes, and the oars came floating in later in the day. After the capsize + Hamilton managed to reach the boat and turn her over, and Blake made for a + kelp-hung rock, but, after pulling himself up on to it, was immediately + washed off and had to swim ashore. The boat was afterwards found to be + stove-in in two places, though the breaks were easily patched up + subsequently. + </p> + <p> + New Year's Eve came and with keen anticipations we welcomed the advent of + 1913. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII THROUGH ANOTHER YEAR + </h2> + <h3> + by G. F. Ainsworth + </h3> + <p> + We had now thrown a year behind and the work we set out to accomplish was + almost finished; so it was with pleasurable feelings that we took up the + burden of completion, looking forward to the arrival of April 1913 which + should bring us final relief and the prospects of civilisation. I shall + deal with the first three months of the year as one period, since almost + all the field-work, except photography, had been done, and, after the + return of Blake and Hamilton from Lusitania Bay on January 8, our life was + one of routine; much time being devoted to packing and labelling specimens + in anticipation of departure. + </p> + <p> + The first business of the year was to overhaul the wireless station, and + on the 6th, Sawyer, Sandell and I spent the day laying in a supply of + benzine from Aerial Cove, changing worn ropes, tightening stay-wires, + straightening the southern masts and finally hauling the aerial taut. + These duties necessitated much use of the "handy billy," and one has but + to form an acquaintance with this desirable "person" to thoroughly + appreciate his value. + </p> + <p> + Blake and Hamilton returned on January 8 and reported that their work was + finished at the southern end. Thenceforth they intended to devote their + time to finishing what remained to be done at the northern end and in + adding to their collections. Blake, for instance, resolved to finish his + chart of the island, and, if time permitted, to make a topographical + survey of the locality, as it was of great geological interest. Hamilton + made the discovery that a number of bird specimens he had packed away were + mildewed, and as a result he was compelled to overhaul the whole lot and + attend to them. He found another colony of mutton birds on North Head, the + existence of which was quite unexpected till he dug one out of a burrow + thought to contain "night-birds." + </p> + <p> + About the middle of January I endeavoured to do a little meteorological + work with the aid of some box-kites manufactured by Sandell. But though a + number of them were induced to fly, we had no success in getting them up + with the instruments attached. They all had a habit of suddenly losing + equilibrium and then indulging in a series of rapid dives and plunges + which usually ended in total wreckage. + </p> + <p> + The 'Rachel Cohen' again visited the island on January 26, but this time + she anchored off "The Nuggets," whither the sealers had gone to live + during the penguin season. We could see the ship lying about a mile + offshore, and walked down to get our mails and anything else she had + brought along for us. I received a letter from the Secretary of the + Expedition saying that he had made arrangements for us to return by the + 'Rachel Cohen' early in April, and the news caused a little excitement, + being the only definite information we had had concerning relief. + </p> + <p> + The end of the first month found Blake and Hamilton both very busy in + making suitable boxes for specimens. Many of the larger birds could not be + packed in ordinary cases, so Hamilton had to make specially large ones to + accommodate them, and Blake's rock specimens being very heavy, extra + strong boxes had to be made, always keeping in view the fact that each was + to weigh not more than eighty pounds, so as to ensure convenient handling. + </p> + <p> + After a silence of about four months, we again heard Adelie Land on + February 3, but the same old trouble existed, that is, they could not hear + us. Sawyer called them again and again, getting no reply, but we reckoned + that conditions would improve in a few weeks, as the hours of darkness + increased. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton and I made a trip to the hill-tops on the 4th for the purpose of + taking a series of plant and earth temperatures which were of interest + biologically, and while there I took the opportunity of obtaining + temperatures in all the lakes we saw. Hamilton also took some panoramic + photographs from the various eminences and all of them turned out well. + </p> + <p> + During the evening Adelie Land sent out a message saying that Dr. Mawson + had not yet returned to the Base from his sledging trip and Sawyer + received it without difficulty, but though he "pounded away" in return for + a considerable time, he was not heard, as no reply or acknowledgment was + made. + </p> + <p> + The 'Rachel Cohen' remained till the 5th, when a northerly gale arose and + drove her away. As she had a good cargo of oil on board no one expected + her to return. We had sent our mail on board several days previously as + experience had shown us that the sailing date of ships visiting the island + was very uncertain. + </p> + <p> + Sandell met with a slight though painful accident on the 7th. He was + starting the engine, when it "backfired" and the handle flying off with + great force struck him on the face, inflicting a couple of nasty cuts, + loosening several teeth, and lacerating the inside of his cheek. A black + eye appeared in a day or two and his face swelled considerably, but + nothing serious supervened. In a few days the swelling had subsided and + any anxiety we felt was at an end. + </p> + <p> + We now had only two sheep left, and on the 8th Blake and I went to kill + one. Mac accompanied us. Seeing the sheep running away, she immediately + set off after them, notwithstanding our threats, yells and curses. They + disappeared over a spur, but shortly afterwards Mac returned, and, being + severely thrashed, immediately left for home. We looked for the sheep + during the rest of the day but could find no trace of them, and though we + searched for many days it was not till five weeks had elapsed that we + discovered them on a small "landing" about half-way down the face of the + cliff. They had apparently rushed over the edge and, rolling down, had + finally come to a stop on the ledge where they were found later, alive and + well. + </p> + <p> + On the 8th Adelie Land was heard by us calling the 'Aurora' to return at + once and pick up the rest of the party, stating also that Lieutenant + Ninnis and Dr. Mertz were dead. All of us were shocked at the grievous + intelligence and every effort was made by Sawyer to call up Adelie Land, + but without success. + </p> + <p> + On the following day we received news from Australia of the disaster to + Captain Scott's party. + </p> + <p> + Blake, who was now geologizing and doing topographical work, discovered + several lignite seams in the hills on the east coast; he had finished his + chart of the island. The mainland is simply a range of mountains which + have been at some remote period partly submerged. The land meets the sea + in steep cliffs and bold headlands, whose general height is from five + hundred to seven hundred feet, with many peaks ranging from nine hundred + and fifty to one thousand four hundred and twenty feet, the latter being + the height of Mount Hamilton, which rears up just at the back of Lusitania + Bay. Evidence of extreme glaciation is everywhere apparent, and numerous + tarns and lakes are scattered amongst the hills, the tops of which are + barren, wind-swept and weather-worn. The hill sides are deeply scored by + ravines, down which tumble small streams, forming cascades at intervals on + their hurried journey towards the ocean. Some of these streams do not + reach the sea immediately, but disappear in the loose shingly beaches of + peaty swamps. The west coast is particularly rugged, and throughout its + length is strewn wreckage of various kinds, some of which is now one + hundred yards from the water's edge. Very few stretches of what may be + called "beach" occur on the island; the foreshores consisting for the most + part of huge water-worn boulders or loose gravel and shingle, across which + progress is slow and difficult. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + A Section across Macquarie Island through Mt. Elder + </p> + <p> + Apparently the ground shelves very rapidly under the water, as a sounding + of over two thousand fathoms was obtained by the 'Aurora' at a distance of + eight miles from the east coast. The trend of the island is about eleven + degrees from true north; the axis lying north by east to south by west. At + either end are the island-groups already referred to, and their connexion + with the mainland may be traced by the sunken rocks indicated by the + breaking seas on the line of reef. + </p> + <p> + A very severe storm about the middle of the month worked up a tremendous + sea, which was responsible for piling hundreds of tons of kelp on the + shore, and for several days tangled masses could be seen drifting about + like small floating islands. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th an event occurred to which we had long looked forward, and + which was now eagerly welcomed. Communication was established with the + Main Base in Adelie Land by wireless! A message was received from Dr. + Mawson confirming the deaths of Ninnis and Mertz, and stating that the + 'Aurora' had not picked up the whole party. Sawyer had a short talk with + Jeffryes, the Adelie Land operator, and among other scraps of news told + him we were all well. + </p> + <p> + Hamilton killed a sea elephant on the 22nd. The animal was a little over + seventeen feet long and thirteen and a half feet in girth just at the back + of the flippers, while the total weight was more than four tons. It took + Hamilton about a day to complete the skinning, and, during the process, + the huge brute had to be twice turned over, but such is the value of the + nautical handy-billy that two men managed it rather easily. When the skin + had been removed, five of us dragged it to the sealers' blubber-shed, + where it was salted, spread out, and left to cure. + </p> + <p> + We had communication with Adelie Land again on the 26th, and messages were + sent and received by both stations. Dr. Mawson wirelessed to the effect + that the 'Aurora' would, after picking up Wild's party, make an attempt to + return to Adelie Land if conditions were at all favourable. + </p> + <p> + Finding that provisions were running rather short on the last day of + February, we reduced ourselves to an allowance of one pound of sugar per + week each, which was weighed out every Thursday. Altogether there were + only forty-five pounds remaining. Thenceforth it was the custom for each + to bring his sugar-tin to the table every meal. The arrangement had its + drawbacks, inasmuch as no sugar was available for cooking unless a levy + were made. Thus puddings became rareties, because most of us preferred to + use the sugar in tea or coffee. + </p> + <p> + March came blustering in, accompanied by a sixty-four-mile gale which did + damage to the extent of blowing down our annexe, tearing the tarpaulin off + the stores at the back and ripping the spouting off the Shack. A high sea + arose and the conformation of the beach on the north-western side of the + isthmus was completely changed. Numbers of sea elephants' tusks and bones + were revealed, which had remained buried in the shingle probably for many + years, and heaps of kelp were piled up where before there had been clean, + stony beach. Kelp is a very tough weed, but after being washed up and + exposed to the air for a few days, begins to decay, giving forth a most + disagreeable smell. + </p> + <p> + At this time we caught numerous small fish amongst the rocks at the + water's edge with a hand line about four feet long. It was simply a matter + of dropping in the line, watching the victim trifle with destiny and + hauling him in at the precise moment. + </p> + <p> + Wireless business was now being done nightly with Adelie Land, and on the + 7th I received a message from Dr. Mawson saying that the party would in + all probability be down there for another season, and stating the + necessity for keeping Macquarie Island station going till the end of the + year. This message I read out to the men, and gave them a week in which to + view the matter. The alternatives were to return in April or to remain + till the end of the year. + </p> + <p> + I went through the whole of the stores on the 10th, and found that the + only commodities upon which we would have to draw sparingly were milk, + sugar, kerosene, meats and coal. The flour would last till May, but the + butter allowance would have to be reduced to three pounds per week. + </p> + <p> + It was on the 12th that we found the lost sheep, but as we had some wekas, + sufficient to last us for several days, I did not kill one till the 15th. + On that day four of us went down towards the ledge where they were + standing, and shot one, which immediately toppled off and rolled down some + distance into the tussock, the other one leaping after it without + hesitation. While Blake and Hamilton skinned the dead sheep, Sandell and I + caught the other and tethered it at the bottom of the hill amongst a patch + of Maori cabbage, as we thought it would probably get lost if left to roam + loose. However, on going to the spot next day, the sheep was nearly dead, + having got tangled up in the rope. So we let it go free, only to lose the + animal a day or two later, for it fell into a bog and perished. + </p> + <p> + On March 22 a lunar eclipse occurred, contact lasting a little over three + hours from 9.45 P.M. till within a few minutes of 1 A.M. on the 23rd. The + period of total eclipse was quite a lengthy one, and during the time it + lasted the darkness was intense. Cloud interfered for a while with our + observations in the total stage. No coronal effect was noted, though a + pulsating nebulous area appeared in front of the moon just before contact. + </p> + <p> + A message came on the 27th saying that the 'Rachel Cohen' was sailing for + Macquarie Island on May 2, and would bring supplies as well as take back + the men who wished to be relieved, and this was forwarded in turn to Dr. + Mawson. + </p> + <p> + He replied, saying that the 'Aurora' would pick us up about the middle of + November and convey us to Antarctica, thence returning to Australia; but + if any member wished to return by the 'Rachel Cohen' he could do so, + though notification would have to be given, in order to allow of + substitutes being appointed. All the members of the party elected to stay, + and I asked each man to give an outline of the work he intended to pursue + during the extended period. + </p> + <p> + During March strong winds were recorded on fourteen days, reaching + gale-force on six occasions. The gale at the beginning of the month was + the strongest we had experienced, the velocity at 5.40 A.M. on the 1st + reaching sixty-four miles per hour. Precipitation occurred on twenty-six + days and the average amount of cloud was 85 per cent. A bright auroral + display took place on the 6th, lasting from 11.20 till 11.45 P.M. It + assumed the usual arch-form stretching from the south-east to south-west, + and streamers and shafts of light could be observed pulsating upwards + towards the zenith. + </p> + <p> + We now started on what might be called the second stage of our existence + on the island. In the preceding pages I have endeavoured to give some idea + of what happened during what was to have been our full period; but + unforeseen circumstances compelled us to extend our stay for eight months + more, until the 'Aurora' came to relieve us in November. As the routine + was similar in a good many respects to that which we had just gone + through, I shall now refer to only the more salient features of our life. + </p> + <p> + The loyalty of my fellows was undoubted, and though any of them could have + returned if he had felt so inclined, I am proud to say that they all + decided to see it through. When one has looked forward hopefully to better + social conditions, more comfortable surroundings and reunion with friends, + it gives him a slight shock to find that the door has been slammed, so to + speak, for another twelve months. Nevertheless, we all found that a strain + of philosophy smoothed out the rough realities, and in a short time were + facing the situation with composure, if not actual contentment. + </p> + <p> + We decided now to effect a few improvements round about our abode, and all + set to work carrying gravel from the beach to put down in front of the + Shack, installing a sink-system to carry any waste water, fixing the + leaking roof and finally closing up the space between the lining and the + wall to keep out the rats. + </p> + <p> + We expected the 'Rachel Cohen' to leave Hobart with our stores on May 2, + and reckoned that the voyage would occupy two weeks. Thus, it would be six + weeks before she arrived. I was therefore compelled on the 10th to reduce + the sugar allowance to half a pound per week. We were now taking it in + turns to go once a week and get some wekas, and it was always possible to + secure about a dozen, which provided sufficient meat for three dinners. + Breakfast consisted generally of fish, which we caught, or sea elephant in + some form, whilst we had tinned fish for lunch. + </p> + <p> + Sandell installed a telephone service between the Shack and the wireless + station about the middle of April, the parts all being made by himself; + and it was certainly an ingenious and valuable contrivance. I, in + particular, learned to appreciate the convenience of it as time went on. + The buzzer was fixed on the wall close to the head of my bunk and I could + be called any time during the night from the wireless station, thus + rendering it possible to reply to communications without loss of time. + Further, during the winter nights, when auroral observations had to be + made, I could retire if nothing showed during the early part of the night, + leaving it to Sandell, who worked till 2 or 3 A.M. to call me if any + manifestation occurred. + </p> + <p> + We had heavy gales from the 12th to the 17th inclusive, the force of the + wind during the period frequently exceeding fifty miles per hour, and, on + the first-mentioned date, the barometer fell to 27.8 inches. The usual + terrific seas accompanied the outburst. + </p> + <p> + Finding that there were only eight blocks of coal left, I reduced the + weekly allowance to one. We had a good supply of tapioca, but neither rice + nor sago, and as the sealers had some of the latter two, but none of the + former, we made an exchange to the extent of twelve pounds of tapioca for + eight pounds of rice and some sago. Only fifteen pounds of butter remained + on the 20th, and I divided this equally, as it was now one of the + luxuries, and each man could use his own discretion in eating it. As it + was nearing the end of April, and no further word concerning the movements + of the 'Rachel Cohen' had been received, I wirelessed asking to be + immediately advised of the exact date of the vessel's departure. A reply + came that the ship would definitely reach us within two months. I + answered, saying we could wait two months, but certainly no longer. + </p> + <p> + With a view to varying the menu a little, Blake and I took Mac up on the + hills on April 26 to get some rabbits and, after tramping for about six + hours, we returned with seven. In our wanderings we visited the penguin + rookeries at "The Nuggets," and one solitary bird sat in the centre of the + vast area which had so lately been a scene of much noise and contention. + </p> + <p> + On May 1 I took an inventory of the stores and found that they would last + for two months if economically used. Of course, I placed confidence in the + statement that the 'Rachel Cohen' would reach the island within that time. + </p> + <p> + With the coming of May wintry conditions set in, and at the end of the + first week the migrants had deserted our uninviting island. Life with us + went on much the same as usual, but the weather was rather more severe + than that during the previous year, and we were confined to the Shack a + good deal. + </p> + <p> + The sealers who were still on the island had shifted back to the Hut at + the north end so that they were very close to us and frequently came over + with their dog in the evenings to have a yarn. The majority of them were + men who had "knocked about" the world and had known many rough, + adventurous years. One of them in particular was rather fluent, and we + were often entertained from his endless repertoire of stories. + </p> + <p> + On the 23rd, finding that there were seventy-seven and a half pounds of + flour remaining, and ascertaining that the sealers could let us have + twenty-five pounds, if we ran short, I increased the allowance for bread + to twelve and a half pounds per week, and this, when made up, gave each + man two and three-quarter pounds of bread. Our supply of oatmeal was very + low, but in order to make it last we now started using a mixture of + oatmeal and sago for breakfast; of course, without any milk or sugar. + </p> + <p> + Just about this time Mac gave birth to six pups and could not help us in + obtaining food. She had done valuable service in this connexion, and the + loss in the foraging strength of the party was severely felt for several + weeks. She was particularly deadly in hunting rabbits and wekas, and + though the first-named were very scarce within a few miles of the Shack, + she always managed to unearth one or two somewhere. Hut-slippers were made + out of the rabbit skins and they were found to be a great boon, one being + able to sit down for a while without his feet "going." + </p> + <p> + June arrived and with it much rough, cold weather. A boat was expected to + come to our relief, at the very latest, by the 30th. We had a very chilly + period during the middle of the month, and it was only by hand-feeding the + "jacket" of the wireless motor that any work could be done by the station, + as the tank outside was almost frozen solid. + </p> + <p> + The tide-gauge clock broke down towards the end of the month, and though I + tried for days to get it going I was not successful. One of the springs + had rusted very badly as a result of the frequent "duckings" the clock had + experienced, and had become practically useless. + </p> + <p> + We had ascertained that the 'Rachel Cohen' was still in Hobart, so on the + 23rd I wirelessed asking when the boat was to sail. The reply came that + the 'Rachel Cohen' was leaving Hobart on Thursday, June 26. + </p> + <p> + Our supply of kerosene oil was exhausted by the end of the month, despite + the fact that the rule of "lights out at 10 P.M." had been observed for + some time. Thus we were obliged to use sea elephant oil in slush lamps. At + first we simply filled a tin with the oil and passed a rag through a cork + floating on the top, but a little ingenuity soon resulted in the + production of a lamp with three burners and a handle. This was made by + Sandell out of an old tea-pot and one, two or three burners could be lit + as occasion demanded. During meal times the whole three burners were used, + but, as the oil smoked and smelt somewhat, we generally blew out two as + soon as the meal was finished. This was the "general" lamp, but each man + had, as well, one of his own invention. Mine was scornfully referred to as + the "house-boat," since it consisted of a jam tin, which held the oil, + standing in a herring tin which caught the overflow. + </p> + <p> + At the end of June, Blake and I surveyed all the penguin rookeries round + about "The Nuggets" and, allowing a bird to the square foot, found that + there must have been about half a million birds in the area. The sealers + kill birds from these rookeries to the number of about one hundred and + thirty thousand yearly, so that it would seem reasonable to suppose that, + despite this fact, there must be an annual increase of about one hundred + thousand birds. + </p> + <p> + The end of the month arrived and, on making inquiries, we found that there + was no news of the 'Rachel Cohen' having left Hobart. We had enough flour + to last a fortnight, and could not get any from the sealers as they + possessed only three weeks' supply themselves. However, on July 8, Bauer + came across and offered to let us have some wheatmeal biscuits as they had + a couple of hundredweights, so I readily accepted twenty pounds of them. + We now had soup twice a day, and managed to make it fairly thick by adding + sago and a few lentils. Cornflour and hot water flavoured with cocoa made + a makeshift blanc-mange, and this, with sago and tapioca, constituted our + efforts towards dessert. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th I received a message stating that the 'Rachel Cohen' had + sailed on July 7; news which was joyfully received. We expected her to + appear in ten or twelve days. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th we used the last ounce of flour in a small batch of bread, + having fully expected the ship to arrive before we had finished it. Next + day Bauer lent us ten pounds of oatmeal and showed us how to make oatmeal + cakes. We tried some and they were a complete success, though they + consisted largely of tapioca, and, according to the respective amounts + used, should rather have been called tapioca cakes. + </p> + <p> + When the 22nd arrived and no ship showed up, I went across to see what the + sealers thought of the matter, and found that they all were of opinion + that she had been blown away to the eastward of the island, and might take + a considerable time to "make" back. + </p> + <p> + On this date we came to the end of our meats, which I had been dealing out + in a very sparing manner, just to provide a change from sea elephant and + weka. We had now to subsist upon what we managed to catch. There were + still thirty-five tins of soup, of which only two tins a day were used, so + that there was sufficient for a few weeks. But we found ourselves running + short of some commodity each day, and after the 23rd reckoned to be + without bread and biscuit. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture many heavy blows were experienced, and on the 24th a + fifty-mile gale accompanied by a tremendous sea beat down on us, giving + the 'Rachel Cohen' a very poor chance of "making" the island. Our last tin + of fruit was eaten; twelve tins having lasted us since March 31, and I + also shared the remaining ten biscuits amongst the men on the 24th. We + were short of bread, flour, biscuits, meats, fish, jam, sugar and milk, + but had twenty tins of French beans, thirty tins of cornflour, some + tapioca, and thirty tins of soup, as well as tea, coffee and cocoa in + abundance. We had not been able to catch any fish for some days as the + weather had been too rough, and, further, they appeared to leave the + coasts during the very cold weather. + </p> + <p> + Sea elephants were very scarce, and we invariably had to walk some + distance in order to get one; each man taking it in turn to go out with a + companion and carry home enough meat for our requirements. We were now + eating sea elephant meat three times a day (all the penguins having + migrated) and our appetites were very keen. The routine work was carried + on, though a great deal of time was occupied in getting food. + </p> + <p> + Bauer very generously offered to share his biscuits with us, but we + fellows, while appreciating the spirit which prompted the offer, + unanimously declined to accept them. We now concluded that something had + happened to the ship, as at the end of July she had been twenty-four days + out. + </p> + <p> + On August 3 we had a sixty-three-mile gale and between 1 and 2 A.M. the + velocity of the wind frequently exceeded fifty miles per hour. Needless to + say there was a mountainous sea running, and the Rachel Cohen, if she had + been anywhere in the vicinity, would have had a perilous time. + </p> + <p> + A message came to me on August 6 from the Secretary of the Expedition, + saying that the 'Rachel Cohen' had returned to New Zealand badly damaged, + and that he was endeavouring to send us relief as soon as possible. I + replied, telling him that our food-supply was done, but that otherwise we + were all right and no uneasiness need be felt, though we wished to be + relieved as soon as possible. + </p> + <p> + Splendid news came along on the 9th to the effect that the New Zealand + Government's steamer 'Tutanekai' would tranship our stores from the + 'Rachel Cohen' on the 15th and sail direct for the island. + </p> + <p> + Sawyer now became ill and desired me to make arrangements for his return. + I accordingly wired to the Secretary, who replied asking if we could + manage without an operator. After consulting Sandell, I answered that + Sandell and I together could manage to run the wireless station. + </p> + <p> + Everybody now looked forward eagerly to the arrival of the 'Tutanekai', + but things went on as before. We found ourselves with nothing but sea + elephant meat and sago, with a pound-tin of French beans once a week and + two ounces of oatmeal every morning. + </p> + <p> + We heard that the Tutanekai did not leave as expected on the 15th, but + sailed on the afternoon of the 17th, and was coming straight to Macquarie + Island. She was equipped with a wireless telegraphy outfit, which enabled + us on the 18th to get in touch with her; the operator on board stating + that they would reach us early on the morning of the 20th. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 19th we gave Sawyer a send-off dinner; surely the + poorest thing of its kind, as far as eatables were concerned, that has + ever been tendered to any one. The fare consisted of sea elephant's tongue + "straight," after which a bottle of claret was cracked and we drank + heartily to his future prosperity. + </p> + <p> + At 7.30 A.M. on the 20th the 'Tutanekai' was observed coming up the east + coast, and as we had "elephanted" at 6 A.M. we were ready to face the day. + I went across to the sealers' hut and accompanied Bauer in the launch to + the ship, which lay at anchor about a mile from the shore. We scrambled on + board, where I met Captain Bollons. He received me most courteously, and, + after discussing several matters, suggested landing the stores straight + away. I got into the launch to return to the shore, but the wind had + freshened and was soon blowing a fresh gale. Still, Bauer thought we + should have no difficulty and we pushed off from the ship. The engine of + the launch failed after we had gone a few yards, the boat was blown + rapidly down the coast, and we were eventually thrown out into the surf at + "The Nuggets." The Captain, who witnessed our plight, sent his launch in + pursuit of us, but its engines also failed. It now became necessary for + the crew of the whale-boat to go to the assistance of the launch. However, + they could do nothing against the wind, and, in the end, the ship herself + got up anchor, gave the two boats a line and towed them back to the former + anchorage. The work of unloading now commenced, though a fairly heavy surf + was running. But the whaleboat of the 'Tutanekai' was so dexterously + handled by the boatswain that most of our stores were landed during the + day. + </p> + <p> + Sawyer went on board the 'Tutanekai' in the afternoon, thus severing his + connexion with the Expedition, after having been with us on the island + since December 1911. On the following morning, some sheep, coal and flour + were landed, and, with a whistled good-bye, the 'Tutanekai' started north + on her visit to other islands. + </p> + <p> + Our short period of stress was over and we all felt glad. From that time + onwards we ate no more elephant meat "straight." A sheep was killed just + as the 'Tutanekai' left, and we had roast mutton, scones, butter, jam, + fruit and rice for tea. It was a rare treat. + </p> + <p> + All the stores were now brought up from the landing-place, and as I had + put up several extra shelves some weeks previously, plenty of room was + found for all the perishable commodities inside the Shack. + </p> + <p> + The beginning of September found me fairly busy. In addition to the + meteorological work, the results of which were always kept reduced and + entered up, I had to work on Wireless Hill during the evening and make + auroral observations on any night during which there was a display, + attending to the stores and taking the week of cooking as it came along. + </p> + <p> + Blake and Hamilton went down the island for several days on September 3, + since they had some special observations to make in the vicinity of Sandy + Bay. + </p> + <p> + The sea elephant season was now in progress, and many rookeries were well + formed by the middle of the month. The skuas had returned, and on the 19th + the advance-guard of the Royal penguins arrived. The gentoos had + established themselves in their old "claims," and since the 12th we had + been using their eggs for cooking. + </p> + <p> + Early in September time-signals were received from Melbourne, and these + were transmitted through to Adelie Land. This practice was kept up + throughout the month and in many cases the signals were acknowledged. + </p> + <p> + Blake and Hamilton returned to the Shack on the 24th, but left again on + the 30th, as they had some more photographic work to do in the vicinity of + Green Valley and Sandy Bay. + </p> + <p> + Blake made a special trip to Sandy Bay on October 30 to bring back some + geological specimens and other things he had left there, but on reaching + the spot found that the old hut had been burned to the ground, apparently + only a few hours before, since it was still smouldering. Many articles + were destroyed, among which were two sleeping-bags, a sextant, gun, + blankets, photographic plates, bird specimens and articles of clothing. It + was presumed that rats had originated the fire from wax matches which had + been left lying on a small shelf. + </p> + <p> + On November 9 we heard that the 'Aurora' would leave Hobart on the 19th + for Antarctica, picking us up on the way and landing three men on the + island to continue the wireless and meteorological work. + </p> + <p> + We sighted the 'Rachel Cohen' bearing down on the island on November 18, + and at 5.15 P.M. she came to an anchorage in North-East Bay. She brought + down the remainder of our coal and some salt for Hamilton for the + preservation of specimens. + </p> + <p> + On the next night it was learned that the 'Aurora' had left Hobart on her + way South, expecting to reach us about the 28th, as some sounding and + dredging were being done en route. + </p> + <p> + Everybody now became very busy making preparations for departure. Time + passed very quickly, and November 28 dawned fine and bright. The 'Rachel + Cohen', which had been lying in the bay loading oil, had her full + complement on board by 10 A.M., and shortly afterwards we trooped across + to say good-bye to Bauer and the other sealers, who were all returning to + Hobart. It was something of a coincidence that they took their departure + on the very day our ship was to arrive. Their many acts of kindness + towards us will ever be recalled by the members of the party, and we look + upon our harmonious neighbourly association together with feelings of + great pleasure. + </p> + <p> + A keen look-out was then kept for signs of our own ship, but it was not + until 8 P.M. that Blake, who was up on the hill side, called out, "Here + she comes," and we climbed up to take in the goodly sight. Just visible, + away in the north-west, there was a line of thin smoke, and in about half + an hour the 'Aurora' dropped anchor in Hasselborough Bay. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII THE HOMEWARD CRUISE + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We bring no store of ingots, + Of spice or precious stones; + But what we have we gathered + With sweat and aching bones. + KIPLING. +</pre> + <p> + As we sat in the wardroom of the 'Aurora' exchanging the news of months + long gone by, we heard from Captain Davis the story of his fair-weather + trip from Hobart. The ship had left Australian waters on November 19, and, + from the outset, the weather was quite ideal. Nothing of note occurred on + the run to Macquarie Island, where a party of three men were landed and + Ainsworth and his loyal comrades picked up. The former party, sent by the + Australian Government, were to maintain wireless communication with Hobart + and to send meteorological reports to the Commonwealth Weather Bureau. A + week was spent at the island and all the collections were embarked, while + Correll was enabled to secure some good colour photographs and Hurley to + make valuable additions to his cinematograph film. + </p> + <p> + The 'Aurora' had passed through the "fifties" without meeting the usual + gales, sighting the first ice in latitude 63 degrees 33' S., longitude 150 + degrees 29' E. She stopped to take a sounding every twenty-four hours, + adding to the large number already accumulated during her cruises over the + vast basin of the Southern Ocean. + </p> + <p> + All spoke of the clear and beautiful days amid the floating ice and of the + wonderful coloured sunsets; especially the photographers. The pack was so + loosely disposed, that the ship made a straight course for Commonwealth + Bay, steaming up to Cape Denison on the morning of December 14 to find us + all eager to renew our claim on the big world up North. + </p> + <p> + There was a twenty-five-knot wind and a small sea when we pulled off in + the whale-boat to the ship, but, as if conspiring to give us for once a + gala-day, the wind fell off, the bay became blue and placid and the sun + beat down in full thawing strength on the boundless ice and snow. The + Adelians, if that may be used as a distinctive title, sat on the warm deck + and read letters and papers in voracious haste, with snatches of the + latest intelligence from the Macquarie Islanders and the ship's officers. + No one could erase that day from the tablets of his memory. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon the motor-launch went ashore, and the first of the + cargo was sent off. The weather remained serene and calm, and for the next + six days, with the exception of a "sixty-miler" for a few hours and a land + breeze overnight, there was nothing to disturb the embarkation of our + bulky impedimenta which almost filled the outer Hut. Other work went on + apace. The skua gulls, snow and Wilson petrels were laying their eggs, and + Hamilton went ashore to secure specimens and to add to our already + considerable collection of bird skins. Hunter had a fish-trap lowered from + the forecastle, used a hand dredge from the ship, and did tow-netting + occasionally from the launch in its journeys to and from the land. Hurley + and Correll had bright sunshine to ensure good photographic results. Bage + and Hodgeman looked after the transport of stores from the Hut, and + Gillies, Bickerton and Madigan ran the motor-launch. McLean, who was now + in possession of an incubator and culture tubes, grew bacteria from + various sources—seals and birds, soils, ice and snow. Ainsworth, + Blake and Sandell, making their first acquaintance with Adelie Land, were + most often to be seen quarrying ice on the glacier or pulling loaded + sledges down to the harbour. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Mackellar Islets + </p> + <p> + On the 18th a party of us went off to the Mackellar Islets in the + motor-launch, taking a tent and provisions, intending to spend two days + there surveying and making scientific observations. + </p> + <p> + These islets, over thirty in number, are clustered mainly in a group about + two miles off shore. The group is encircled by rocky "outposts," and there + are several "links" to the southern mainland. Under a brilliant sun, + across the pale blue water, heaving in a slow northerly swell, the + motor-launch threaded her way between the granite knobs, capped with solid + spray. The waves had undermined the white canopies so that they stood + immobile, perched on the dark, kelp-fringed rocks, casting their pallid + reflections in the turquoise sea. Steaming into a natural harbour, + bordered by a low ice-foot on which scores of Weddell seals lay in + listless slumber, we landed on the largest islet—a succession of + salt-encrusted ridges covered by straggling penguin rookeries. The place + just teemed with the sporadic life of an Antarctic summer. + </p> + <p> + It was calculated that the Adelie penguins exceeded one hundred and fifty + thousand in number over an area of approximately one hundred acres. Near + the landing-place there were at least sixty seals and snow petrels; skua + gulls and Wilson petrels soon betrayed their nests to the biologists. + </p> + <p> + The islets are flat, and afford evidence that at one time the continental + ice-cap has ridden over them. The rock is a hard grey gneiss. A rough + plane-table map of the group was made by Hodgeman and myself. + </p> + <p> + Our scheme of local exploration was now continued to the west. For two + years we had looked curiously at a patch of rocks protruding beneath the + ice-cap eight miles away, within Commonwealth Bay. It had been + inaccessible to sledging parties, and so we reserved Cape Hunter, as it + was ultimately called, for the coming of the Ship. + </p> + <p> + The anchor was raised on the forenoon of the 22nd, and by midday the + 'Aurora' steamed at half-speed along the ramparts of the glacier, stopping + about four miles from the Cape, after sounding in four hundred and + twenty-four fathoms. Through field-glasses much had already been seen; + enough to arouse an intense interest. + </p> + <p> + One could not but respond to the idea that here was a new world, flawless + and unblemished, into which no human being had ever pried. Here were open + secrets to be read for the first time. It was not with the cold eye of + science alone that we gazed at these rocks—a tiny spur of the great + unseen continent; but it was with an indefinable wonder. + </p> + <p> + In perfect weather a small party set off in the launch towards a large + grounded berg which appeared to lie under the ice-cliffs. Approaching it + closely, after covering two miles, we could see that it was still more + than a mile to the rocks. + </p> + <p> + Penguins soon began to splash around; Wilson petrels came glancing + overhead and we could descry great flocks of Antarctic petrels wheeling + over cliff and sea. Reefs buried in frothing surge showed their glistening + mantles, and the boat swerved to avoid floating streamers of brash-ice. + </p> + <p> + The rocky cliffs, about eighty feet in height at the highest point, were + formed of vertically lying slate rocks—a very uniform series of + phyllite and sericite-schist. At their base lay great clinging blocks of + ice deeply excavated by the restless swell. One island was separated from + the parent mass by a channel cut sheer to the deep blue water. Behind the + main rocks and indenting the ice-cliff was a curving bay into which we + steered, finding at its head a beautiful cove fringed with a heavy + undermined ice-foot and swarming with Adelie penguins. Overhanging the + water was a cavern hollowed out of a bridge of ice thrown from the glacier + to the western limit of the rock outcrop. + </p> + <p> + Hurley had before him a picture in perfect proportion. The steel-blue + water, paled by an icy reflection, a margin of brown rocks on which the + penguins leapt through the splashing surf, a curving canopy of ice-foot + and, filling the background, the cavern with pendent icicles along its + cornice. + </p> + <p> + The swell was so great that an anchor had to be thrown from the stern to + keep the launch off shore, and two men remained on board to see that no + damage was done. + </p> + <p> + At last we were free to roam and explore. Over the first ridge of rocks we + walked suddenly into the home of the Antarctic petrels! There had always + been much speculation as to where these birds nested. Jones' party at our + western base had the previous summer at Haswell Island happened upon the + first rookery of Antarctic petrels ever discovered. Here was another spot + in the great wilderness peopled by their thousands. Every available nook + and crevice was occupied along a wide slope which shelved away until it + met the vertical cliffs falling to the ocean. One could sit down among the + soft, mild birds who were fearless at the approach of man. They rested in + pairs close to their eggs laid on the bare rock or among fragments of + slate loosely arranged to resemble a rest. Many eggs were collected, and + the birds, losing confidence in us, rose into the air in flocks, gaining + in feathered volume as they circled in fear above this domain of rock and + snow which had been theirs for generations. + </p> + <p> + In adjoining rookeries the Adelie penguins, with their fat, downy cheeks, + were very plentiful and fiercer than usual. Skuas, snow and Wilson petrels + were all in their accustomed haunts. Down on the low ice-foot at the mouth + of a rocky ravine, a few seals had effected a landing. Algae, mosses and + lichens made quite a display in moist localities. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving for the ship, we "boiled the billy" on a platform of slate + near the cove where the launch was anchored and had a small picnic, + entertained by the penguins playing about in the surf or scaling the + ice-foot to join the birds which were laboriously climbing to the + rookeries on the ridge. The afternoon was so peaceful and the calm hot + weather such a novelty to us that we pushed off reluctantly to the + 'Aurora' after an eventful day. + </p> + <p> + Those on board had had a busy time dredging, and their results were just + as successful as ours. A haul was made in two hundred and fifty fathoms of + ascidians, sponges, crinoids, holothurians, fish and other forms of life + in such quantity that Hunter and Hamilton were occupied in sorting the + specimens until five o'clock next morning. Meanwhile the 'Aurora' had + returned to her old anchorage close to Cape Denison. + </p> + <p> + The sky banked up from the south with nimbus, and early on the 23rd a + strong breeze ruffled the water. There were a few things to be brought off + from the shore, while Ainsworth, Sandell and Correll were still at the + Hut, so that, as the weather conditions pointed to a coming blizzard, I + decided to "cut the painter" with the land. + </p> + <p> + An hour later the motor-launch, with Madigan and Bickerton, sped away for + the last load through falling snow and a rising sea. Hodgeman had battened + down the windows of the Hut, the chimney was stuffed with bagging, the + veranda-entrance closed with boards, and, inside, an invitation was left + for future visitors to occupy and make themselves at home. After the + remainder of the dogs and some miscellaneous gear had been shipped, the + launch put off and came alongside in a squally wind through thick showers + of snow. Willing hands soon unloaded the boat and slung it in the davits. + Every one was at last safe on board, and in future all our operations were + to be conducted from the ship. + </p> + <p> + During the night the wind rose and the barometer fell, while the air was + filled with drifting snow. On the 24th—Christmas Eve—the + velocity of the wind gradually increased to the seventies until at noon it + blew with the strength of a hurricane. Chief Officer Blair, stationed with + a few men under the fo'c'sle-head, kept an anxious eye on the anchor chain + and windlass. + </p> + <p> + About lunch time the anchor was found to be dragging and we commenced to + drift before the hurricane. All view of the land and lurking dangers in + the form of reefs and islets were cut off by driving snow. + </p> + <p> + The wind twanged the rigging to a burring drone that rose to a shriek in + the shuddering gusts. The crests of the waves were cut off and sprayed in + fine spindrift. With full steam on we felt our way out, we hoped to the + open sea; meanwhile the chain cable and damaged anchor were slowly being + hauled in. The ship's chances looked very small indeed, but, owing to the + good seamanship of Captain Davis and a certain amount of luck, disaster + was averted. Soon we were in a bounding sea. Each time we were lifted on a + huge roller the motor-launch, swinging in the davits, would rise and then + descend with a crash on the water, to be violently bumped against the + bulwarks. Everything possible was done to save the launch, but our efforts + proved fruitless. As it was being converted into a battering ram against + the ship itself it had to be cut away, and was soon swept astern and we + saw no more of it. + </p> + <p> + Most unexpectedly there came a lull in the wind, so that it was almost + calm, though the ship still laboured in the seas. A clearance in the + atmosphere was also noticeable for Cape Hunter became discernible to the + west, towards which we were rapidly drifting. This sight of the coast was + a great satisfaction to us, for we then knew our approximate position ** + and the direction of the wind, which had veered considerably. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** It should be borne in mind that compasses are unreliable in the +vicinity of the magnetic pole. +</pre> + <p> + The lull lasted scarcely five minutes when the wind came back from a + somewhat different quarter, north of east, as violent as ever. The "eye" + of the storm had passed over us, and the gale continued steady for several + days. That night the struggle with the elements was kept up by officers + and crew, assisted by members of the shore party who took the lee-wheel or + stood by in case of emergency. + </p> + <p> + "December 25. Christmas Day on the high seas off Adelie Land, everything + wet and fairly miserable; incipient mal de mer, wind 55-60; snowing! When + Davis came down to breakfast and wished us a Merry Christmas, with a smile + at the irony of it, the ward-room was swaying about in a most bewildering + fashion." + </p> + <p> + Towards evening, after the 'Aurora' had battled for hours slowly to the + east, the sea went down somewhat and some drifting ice was sighted. We + continued under full steam, pushing forward to gain the shelter of the + Mertz glacier-tongue. It was now discovered that the fluke of the anchor + had broken off short, so great had been the strain imposed upon it during + the height of the hurricane. + </p> + <p> + On Boxing Day the ship was in calmer water heading in a more southerly + direction so as to come up with the land. Fog, fine snow and an overcast + sky made a gloomy combination, but during the afternoon the fog lightened + sufficiently for us to perceive the mainland—a ghostly cliff + shrouded in diaphanous blink. By 10 P.M. the Mertz glacier was visible on + the port bow, and to starboard there was an enormous tilted berg which + appeared to be magnified in the dim light. + </p> + <p> + Allowing a day for the weather to become clearer and more settled, we got + out the trawl on the 28th and did a dredging in three hundred fathoms + close to the glacier-tongue. Besides rocks and mud there were abundant + crinoids, holothurians, corals, crustaceans and "shells." In addition, + several pieces of fossilized wood and coaly matter were discovered + scattered through the "catch." + </p> + <p> + Bage, under Davis's direction, took temperatures and collected water + samples at fifty, seventy-five, one hundred, two hundred and three hundred + fathoms, using the Lucas sounding-machine on the fo'c'sle. The temperature + gradient from the surface downwards appeared to give some indication of + the depth of ice submerged in the glacier-tongue alongside which we were + lying. + </p> + <p> + On the 29th a cold south-easter blew off the ice-cliffs and the sun was + trying to pierce a gauzy alto-stratus. The 'Aurora' steamed north-east, it + being our intention to round the northern limit of the Mertz Glacier. + Gradually a distant line of pack, which had been visible for some time, + closed in and the ship ran into a cul-de-sac. Gray, who was up in the + crow's-nest, reported that the ice was very heavy, so we put about. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding southward once more, we glided along within a stone's throw of + the great wall of ice whose chiselled headlands stood in profile for + miles. There was leisure to observe various features of this great + formation, and to make some valuable photographic records when the low + south-western sun emerged into a wide rift. Hunter trailed the tow-net for + surface plankton while the ship was going at half-speed. + </p> + <p> + At ten o'clock the ship had come up with the land, and her course was + turned sharply to the north-west towards a flotilla of bergs lying to the + east of the Way Archipelago, which we intended to visit. + </p> + <p> + On December 30, 1913, the 'Aurora' lay within a cordon of floating ice + about one mile distant from the nearest islet of a group scattered along + the coast off Cape Gray. + </p> + <p> + Immediately after breakfast a party of eight men set off in the launch to + investigate Stillwell Island. The weather was gloriously sunny and every + one was eager at the prospect of fresh discoveries. Cape Hunter had been + the home of the Antarctic petrels, and on this occasion we were singularly + fortunate in finding a resort of the Southern Fulmar or silver-grey + petrels. During the previous summer, two of the eastern sledging parties + had for the first time observed the breeding habits of these birds among + isolated rocks outcropping on the edge of the coast. But here there was a + stronghold of hundreds of petrels, sitting with their eggs in niches among + the boulders or ensconced in bowers excavated beneath the snow which lay + deep over some parts of the island. + </p> + <p> + The rock was a gneiss which varied in character from that which had been + examined at Cape Denison and in other localities. All the scientific + treasures were exhausted by midday, and the whale-boat was well laden when + we rowed back to the ship. + </p> + <p> + Throughout a warm summer afternoon the 'Aurora' threaded her way between + majestic bergs and steamed west across the wide span of Commonwealth Bay, + some fifteen miles off the land. At eleven o'clock the sky was perfectly + clear and the sun hung like a luminous ball over the southern plateau. The + rocks near the Hut were just visible. Close to the "Pianoforte Berg" and + the Mackellar Islets tall jets of fine spray were seen to shoot upward + from schools of finner whales. All around us and for miles shoreward, the + ocean was calm and blue; but close to the mainland there was a dark + curving line of ruffled water, while through glasses one could see trails + of serpentine drift flowing down the slopes of the glacier. Doubtless, it + was blowing at the Hut; and the thought was enough to make us thankful + that we were on our good ship leaving Adelie Land for ever. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of December 31, 1913, Cape Alden was abeam, and a strong + wind swept down from the highlands. Bordering the coast there was a linear + group of islets and outcropping rocks at which we had hoped to touch. The + wind continued to blow so hard that the idea was abandoned and our course + was directed towards the north-west to clear a submerged reef which had + been discovered in January 1912. + </p> + <p> + The wind and sea arose during the night, causing the ship to roll in a + reckless fashion. Yet the celebration of New Year's Eve was not marred, + and lusty choruses came up from the ward-room till long after midnight. + Next morning at breakfast our ranks had noticeably thinned through the + liveliness of the ship, but it is wonderful how large an assembly we + mustered for the New Year's dinner, and how cheerfully the toast was drunk + to "The best year we have ever had!" + </p> + <p> + On January 2, 1914, fast ice and the mainland were sighted. The course was + changed to the south-west so as to bring the ship within a girdle of loose + ice disposed in big solid chunks and small pinnacled floes. A sounding + realized two hundred fathoms some ten miles off the coast, which stretched + like a lofty bank of yellow sand along the southern horizon. On previous + occasions we had not been able to see so much of the coastline in this + longitude owing to the compactness of the ice, and so we were able to + definitely chart a longer tract at the western limit of Adelie Land. + </p> + <p> + The ice became so thick and heavy as the 'Aurora' pressed southward that + she was forced at last to put about and steer for more open water. On the + way, a sounding was made in two hundred and fifty fathoms, but a dredging + was unsuccessful owing to the fact that insufficient cable was paid out in + going from two hundred and fifty fathoms to deeper water. + </p> + <p> + Our north-westerly course ran among a great number of very long tabular + bergs, which suggested the possibility of a neighbouring glacier-tongue as + their origin. + </p> + <p> + At ten o'clock on the evening of the 2nd, a mountain of ice with a high + encircling bastion passed to starboard. It rose to a peak, flanked by + fragments toppling in snowy ruin. The pyramidal summit was tinged the + palest lilac in the waning light; the mighty pallid walls were streaked + and blotched with deep azure; the green swell sucked and thundered in the + wave-worn caverns. Chaste snow-birds swam through the pure air, and the + whole scene was sacred. + </p> + <p> + A tropical day in the pack-ice! Sunday January 4 was clear and perfectly + still, and the sun shone powerfully. On the previous day we had entered a + wide field of ice which had become so close and heavy that the ship took + till late in the evening to reach its northern fringe. + </p> + <p> + From January 5 onwards for two weeks we steamed steadily towards the west, + repeatedly changing course to double great sheets of pack which streamed + away to the north, pushing through them in other places where the welcome + "water-sky showed strong" ahead, making "southing" for days following the + trend of the ice, then grappling with it in the hope of winning through to + the land and at last returning to the western track along the margin of + brash which breaks the first swell of the Southern Ocean. + </p> + <p> + The weather was mostly overcast with random showers of light snow and mild + variable winds on all but two days, when there was a "blow" of forty miles + per hour and a considerable sea in which the ship seemed more active than + usual. + </p> + <p> + Many soundings were taken, and their value lay in broadly [...] Of course, + too, we were supplementing the ship's previous work in these latitudes. + </p> + <p> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + </p> + <p> + Section Illustrating The Moat In The Antarctic Continental Shelf + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + One successful dredging in eighteen hundred fathoms brought up some large + erratics and coaly matter, besides a great variety of animal life. It was + instructive to find that the erratics were coated with a film of manganese + oxide derived from the sea-water. Several tow-nettings were taken with + large nets automatically closing at any desired depth through the medium + of a "messenger." Small crustaceans were plentiful on the surface, but + they were if anything more numerous at depths of fifty to one hundred + fathoms. Amongst the latter were some strongly phosphorescent forms. The + flying birds were "logged" daily by the biologists. Emperor and Adelie + penguins were occasionally seen, among the floes as well as sea-leopards, + crab-eater and Weddell seals. + </p> + <p> + Friday January 16 deserves mention as being a day full of incident. In the + morning a thin, cold fog hung along the pack whose edge determined our + course. Many petrels flew around, and on the brash-ice there were dark + swarms of terns—small birds with black-capped heads, dove-grey backs + and silvery-white breasts. They were very nervous of the ship, rising in + great numbers when it had approached within a few hundred yards. One + startled bird would fly up, followed by several more; then a whole covey + would disturb the rest of the flock. Hamilton managed to shoot two of them + from the fo'c'sle, and, after much manoeuvring, we secured one with a long + hand-net. + </p> + <p> + Soon after, there was a cry of "killer whales!" from the stern. Schools of + them were travelling from the west to the east along the edge of the pack. + The water was calm and leaden, and every few seconds a big black + triangular fin would project from the surface, there would be a momentary + glimpse of a dark yellow-blotched back and then all would disappear. + </p> + <p> + We pushed into the pack to "ice ship," as the water-supply was running + low. Just as the 'Aurora' was leaving the open water, a school of finner + whales went by, blowing high jets of spray in sudden blasts, wallowing for + a few seconds on the surface, and diving in swirls of foam. These finners + or rorquals are enormous mammals, and on one occasion we were followed by + one for several hours. It swam along with the ship, diving regularly + underneath from one side to another, and we wondered what would happen if + it had chosen to charge the vessel or to investigate the propeller. + </p> + <p> + Close to a big floe to which the ship was secured, two crab-eater seals + were shot and hauled aboard to be skinned and investigated by the + biologists and bacteriologist. When the scientists had finished their + work, the meat and blubber were cut up for the dogs, while the choicer + steaks were taken to the cook's galley. + </p> + <p> + After lunch every one started to "ice ship" in earnest. The sky had + cleared and the sun was warm and brilliant by the time a party had landed + on the snow-covered floe with baskets, picks and shovels. When the baskets + had been filled, they were hoisted by hand-power on to a derrick which had + been fixed to the mizen mast, swung inboard and then shovelled into a + melting tank alongside the engine-room. The melter was a small tank + through which ran a coil of steam pipes. The ice came up in such quantity + that it was not melted in time to keep up with the demand, so a large heap + was made on the deck. + </p> + <p> + Later in the afternoon it was found that holes chipped in the sea-ice to a + depth of six or eight inches filled quickly with fresh water, and soon a + gang of men had started a service with buckets and dippers between these + pools and the main hatch where the water was poured through funnels into + the ship's tanks. The bulwarks on the port side of the main hatch had been + taken down, and a long plank stretched across to the floe. At nine o'clock + work was stopped and we once more resumed our western cruise. + </p> + <p> + It was found that as the region of Queen Mary Land approached, heavy pack + extended to the north. While skirting this obstacle, we disclosed by + soundings a steep rise in the ocean's floor from a depth of about fifteen + hundred fathoms to within seven hundred fathoms of the surface, south of + which there was deep water. It was named "Bruce Rise" in recognition of + the oceanographical work of the Scottish Expedition in Antarctic seas. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th, in latitude 62 degrees 21' S., longitude 95 degrees 9' E., + the course ran due south for more than seven hours. For the two ensuing + days the ship was able to steer approximately south-west through + slackening ice, until on the 19th at midday we were in latitude 64 degrees + 59' S., longitude 90 degrees 8' E. At length it appeared that land was + approaching, after a westward run of more than twelve hundred miles. + Attempts to reach the charted position of Totten's Land, North's Land, + Budd Land and Knox Land had been successively abandoned when it became + evident that the pack occupied a more northerly situation than that of the + two previous years, and was in most instances thick and impenetrable. + </p> + <p> + At 10 P.M. on the 19th, the ice fields still remaining loose and + navigable, a dark line of open water was observed ahead. From the + crow's-nest it was seen to the south stretching east and west within the + belt of pack-ice—the Davis Sea. We had broken through the pack less + than twenty-five miles north of where the 'Gauss' (German Expedition, + 1902) had wintered. + </p> + <p> + All next day the 'Aurora' steamed into the eye of an easterly wind towards + a low white island, the higher positions of which had been seen by the + German Expedition of 1902, and charted as Drygalski's High Land. Dr. + Jones' party had, the year before, obtained a distant view of it and + regarded it as an island, which proved to be correct, so we named it + Drygalski Island. To the south there was the dim outline of the mainland. + Soundings varied between two hundred and three hundred fathoms. + </p> + <p> + On January 21, Drygalski Island was close at hand, and a series of + soundings which showed from sixty to seventy fathoms of water deepening + towards the mainland proved beyond doubt that it was an island. In shape + it is like a flattened dome about nine miles in diameter and twelve + hundred feet in height, bounded by perpendicular cliffs of ice, and with + no visible evidence of outcropping rock. + </p> + <p> + The dredge was lowered in sixty fathoms, and a rich assortment of life was + captured for the biologists—Hunter and Hamilton. A course was then + made to the south amidst a sea of great bergs; the water deepening to + about four hundred fathoms. + </p> + <p> + During the evening the crevassed slopes of the mainland rose clear to the + south, and many islets were observed near the coast, frozen in a wide + expanse of bay-ice. Haswell Island, visited by Jones, Dovers and Hoadley + of the Western Party, was sighted, and the ship was able to approach + within eight miles of it; at ten o'clock coming up to flat bay-ice, where + she anchored for the night. Before we retired to bunk, a Ross seal was + discovered and shot, three-quarters of a mile away. + </p> + <p> + Next day, January 22, an unexpected find was made of five more of this + rare species of seal. Many Emperor penguins were also secured. It would + have been interesting to visit the great rookery of Emperor penguins on + Haswell Island, but, as the ship could only approach to within eight miles + of it, I did not think it advisable to allow a party to go so far. + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 22nd, the 'Aurora' was headed northeast for the + Shackleton Ice-Shelf. In the early hours of the 28rd a strong gale sprang + up and rapidly increased in violence. A pall of nimbus overspread the sky, + and blinding snow commenced to fall. + </p> + <p> + We had become used to blizzards, but on this occasion several factors made + us somewhat apprehensive. The ship was at least twenty-five miles from + shelter on an open sea, littered with bergs and fragments of ice. The wind + was very strong; the maximum velocity exceeding seventy miles per hour, + and the dense driving snow during the midnight hours of semi-darkness + reduced our chances of navigating with any certainty. + </p> + <p> + The night of the 23rd had a touch of terror. The wind was so powerful + that, with a full head of steam and steering a few points off the eye of + the wind, the ship could just hold her own. But when heavy gusts swooped + down and the propeller raced on the crest of a mountainous wave, Davis + found it impossible to keep steerage-way. + </p> + <p> + Drift and spray lash the faces of officer and helmsman, and through the + grey gloom misty bergs glide by on either hand. A long slow struggle + brings us to a passage between two huge masses of ice. There is a shock as + the vessel bumps and grinds along a great wall. The engine stops, starts + again, and stops once more. The yards on the foremast are swung into the + wind, the giant seas are broken by the stolid barriers of ice, the engine + commences to throb with its old rhythm, and the ship slowly creeps out to + meet the next peril. It comes with the onset of a "bergy-bit" which + smashes the martingale as it plunges into a deep trough. The chain stay + parts, dragging loose in the water, while a great strain is put by the + foremast on the bowsprit. + </p> + <p> + Early on the 24th the ship was put about and ran with the wind, while all + hands assembled on the fo'c'sle. The crew, under the direction of Blair, + had the ticklish job of replacing the chain stay by two heavy blocks, the + lower of which was hooked on to the lug which secured the end of the stay, + and the upper to the bowsprit. The running ropes connecting the blocks + were tightened up by winding the hauling line round the capstan. When the + boatswain and two sailors had finished the wet and chilly task of getting + the tackle into position, the rest put their weight on to the capstan bars + and the strain on the bowsprit was relieved. The fo'c'sle, plunging and + swaying in the great waves, was encased in frozen spray, and along all the + ropes and stays were continuous cylinders of ice. The 'Aurora' then + resumed her easterly course against the blizzard. + </p> + <p> + Saturday January 24 was a day of high wind, rough seas, watery decks, + lively meals and general discomfort. At 11.30 P.M. the waves had + perceptibly decreased, and it was surmised that we were approaching the + berg, about thirty miles in length, which lay to the west of the + Shackleton Ice-Shelf. + </p> + <p> + At 6 A.M. on the 25th the sun managed to glimmer through the low rack + flying from the east, lighting up the carven face of an ice-cliff along + which the 'Aurora' was coasting. Up and down we steamed until the + afternoon of the 26th, when the wind lulled away to nothing, and the grey, + even pall of cloud rose and broke into fleecy alto-cumulus. + </p> + <p> + At the southern extremity of the long berg, fast bay-ice extended up to + the land and for twenty miles across to the shelf on which the Winter + Quarters of the Western Party had been situated. Further progress to the + south was blocked, so our course was directed to the north along the + western border of the berg. + </p> + <p> + When not engaged in sounding, dredging, or tow-netting members of the land + party found endless diversion in trimming coal. Big inroads had been made + in the supply of more than five hundred tons, and it now became necessary + to shift many tons of it from the holds aft to the bunkers where it was + accessible to the firemen. The work was good exercise, and every one + enjoyed the shift below, "trucking"and "heaving." Another undoubted + advantage, in the opinion of each worker, was that he could at least + demand a wash from Chief Engineer Gillies, who at other times was forced + to be thrifty with hot fresh water. + </p> + <p> + After supper on the 28th it was evident that we had reached a point where + the shelf-ice veered away to the eastward and a wide tract of adhering + sea-ice barred the way. The floe was exceedingly heavy and covered with a + deep layer of soft snow. Emperor and Adelie penguins, crab-eater and + Weddell seals were recognized through glasses along its edge. As there was + a light obscuring fog and dusk was approaching, the 'Aurora' "hung up" for + the night. + </p> + <p> + On January 29 the ship, after a preliminary trawling had been done in + three hundred and twenty fathoms, pushed into the floe and was made fast + with an ice-anchor. Emperor penguins were so plentiful in the + neighbourhood that many specimens were secured for skins. + </p> + <p> + A sea-leopard was seen chasing a crab-eater seal quite close to the bow of + the ship. The latter, after several narrow escapes, took refuge on an + ice-foot projecting from the edge of the floe. + </p> + <p> + Advantage was taken of a clearing in the weather to walk over the sea-ice + to a berg two and a half miles away, from the summit of which it was hoped + that some sign of land might be apparent. Away in the distance, perhaps + five miles further on, could be seen an immense congregation of Emperor + Penguins—evidently another rookery. No certain land was visible. + </p> + <p> + The cruise was now continued to the north-west in order to skirt a + collection of bergs and floe, with the ultimate object of proceeding in an + easterly direction towards Termination Ice-Tongue at the northern limit of + the Shackleton Shelf-Ice. + </p> + <p> + A glance at the map which illustrates the work done by the Western Party + affords the best idea of the great ice-formation which stretches away to + the north of Queen Mary Land. It is very similar in character to the + well-known Ross Barrier over which lay part of Scott's and Amundsen's + journeys to the South Pole. Its height is remarkably uniform, ranging from + sixty to one hundred feet above the water-level. When allowance has been + made for average specific gravity, its average total thickness should + approximate to six hundred feet. From east to west the formation was + proved to be as much as two hundred miles, with one hundred and eighty + miles between its northern and southern limits. + </p> + <p> + This vast block of ice originates fundamentally from the glacial flow over + the southern hinterland. Every year an additional layer of consolidated + snow is added to its surface by the frequent blizzards. These annual + additions are clearly marked in the section exposed on the dazzling white + face near the brink of the ice-cliff. There is a limit, however, to the + increase in thickness, for the whole mass is ever moving slowly to the + north, driven by the irresistible pressure of the land-ice behind it. Thus + the northern face crumbles down into brash or floats away as part of a + berg severed from the main body of the shelf-ice. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of January 30 we had the unique experience of witnessing + this crumbling action at work—a cataclysm of snow, ice and water! + The ship was steaming along within three hundred yards of a cliff, when + some loose drifts slid off from its edge, followed by a slice of the face + extending for many hundreds of feet and weighing perhaps one million tons. + It plunged into the sea with a deep booming roar and then rose + majestically, shedding great masses of snow, to roll onwards exposing its + blue, swaying bulk shivering into lumpy masses which pushed towards the + ship in an ever-widening field of ice. It was a grand scene enacted in the + subdued limelight of an overcast day. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon the 'Aurora' changed her north-westerly course round + to north-east, winding through a wonderful sea of bergs grounded in about + one hundred and twenty fathoms of water. At times we would pass through + narrow lanes between towering walls and emerge into a straight wide avenue + along which these mountains of ice were ranged. Several were rather + remarkable; one for its exquisite series of stratification lines, another + for its facade in stucco, and a third for its overhanging cornice fringed + with slender icicles. + </p> + <p> + On January 31 a trawling was made in one hundred and twelve fathoms. Half + a ton of life emptied on the deck gave the biologists occupation for + several days. Included in the catch were a large number of monstrous + gelatinous ascidians or "sea-squirts." Fragments of coal were once more + found; an indication that coaly strata must be very widely distributed in + the Antarctic. + </p> + <p> + The pack was dense and in massive array at the extremity of Termination + Ice-Tongue. Davis drove the ship through some of it and entered an open + lead which ran like a dark streak away to the east amid ice which grew + heavier and more marked by the stress of pressure. + </p> + <p> + Our time was now limited and it seemed to me that there was little chance + of reaching open water by forcing a passage either to the east or north. + We therefore turned on our tracks and broke south-west back into the Davis + Sea, intending to steam westward to the spot where we had so easily + entered two weeks previously. + </p> + <p> + On February 4 the pack to the north was beginning to thin out and to look + navigable. Several short-cuts were taken across projecting "capes," and + then on February 5 the 'Aurora' entered a zone of bergs and broken floe. + No one slept well during that night as the ship bumped and ground into the + ice which crashed and grated along her stout sides. Davis was on watch for + long hours, directing in the crow's nest or down on the bridge, and + throughout the next day we pushed on northwards towards the goal which now + meant so much to us—Australia—Home! + </p> + <p> + At four o'clock the sun was glittering on the great ocean outside the + pack-ice. Many of us climbed up in the rigging to see the fair sight—a + prevision of blue skies and the calm delights of a land of eternal summer. + Our work was finished, and the good ship was rising at last to the long + swell of the southern seas. + </p> + <p> + On February 12, in latitude 55 degrees S, a strong south-wester drove + behind, and, with all sails set, the 'Aurora' made eight knots an hour. + The last iceberg was seen far away on the eastern horizon. Albatrosses + followed in our wake, accompanied by their smaller satellites—Cape + hens, priors, Lesson's and Wilson petrels. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving the ice, Sandell and Bickerton had fixed an aerial between + the fore and mizen masts, while the former installed a wireless + receiving-apparatus within the narrow limits of his cabin. There was no + space on the ship to set up the motor-engine, dynamos and other + instruments necessary for transmitting messages over a long distance. + </p> + <p> + As the nights began to darken, Sandell listened eagerly for distant + signals, until on February 16, in latitude 47 degrees S, the "calls" of + three ships in the vicinity of the Great Australian Bight were recognized. + After this date news was picked up every night, and all the items were + posted on a morning bulletin pinned up in the ward-room. + </p> + <p> + The first real touch of civilization came unexpectedly early on the + morning of February 21. A full-rigged ship on the southern horizon! It + might have been an iceberg, the sails flashed so white in the morning sun. + But onward it came with a strong south-wester, overhauled and passed us, + signalling "'Archibald Russell', fifty-four days out from Buenos Ayres, + bound for Cape Borda." It was too magical to believe. + </p> + <p> + On February 26 we gazed on distant cliffs of rock and earth—Kangaroo + Island—and the tiny cluster of dwellings round the lighthouse at + Cape Borda. Then we entered St. Vincent's Gulf on a clear, hot day, + marvelling at the sandy-blue water, the long, flat mainland with its + clumps of trees and the smoke of many steamers. + </p> + <p> + The welcome home—the voices of innumerable strangers—the + hand-grips of many friend—it chokes one—it cannot be uttered! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX I + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THE STAFF + + The Ship's Officers + + J. K. Davis Master of S. Y. 'Aurora' and Second-in + Command of the Expedition. + J. H. Blair First Officer during the later stages of + the Expedition. + P. Gray Second Officer. + C. P. de la Motte Third Officer. + F. J. Gillies Chief Engineer. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Macquarie Island Party + + G. F. Ainsworth Leader: Meteorologist. + L. R. Blake Geologist and Cartographer. + H. Hamilton Biologist. + C. A. Sandell Wireless Operator and Mechanic. + A. J. Sawyer Wireless Operator. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Main Base Party + + Dr. D. Mawson Commander of the Expedition. + Lieut. R. Bage Astronomer, Assistant Magnetician and + Recorder of Tides. + C. T. Madigan Meteorologist. + Lieut. B. E. S. Ninnis In charge of Greenland dogs. + Dr. X. Mertz In charge of Greenland dogs. + Dr. A. L. McLean Chief Medical Officer, Bacteriologist. + F. H. Bickerton In charge of air-tractor sledge. + A. J. Hodgeman Cartographer and Sketch Artist. + J. F. Hurley Official Photographer. + E. N. Webb Chief Magnetician. + P. E. Correll Mechanic and Assistant Physicist. + J. G. Hunter Biologist. + C. F. Laseron Taxidermist and Biological Collector. + F. L. Stillwell Geologist. + H. D. Murphy In charge of Expedition stores. + W. H. Hannam Wireless Operator and Mechanic. + J. H. Close Assistant Collector. + Dr. L. A. Whetter Surgeon. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Western Base Party + + F. Wild Leader. + A. D. Watson Geologist. + Dr. S. E. Jones Medical Officer. + C. T. Harrisson Biologist. + M. H. Moyes Meteorologist. + A. L. Kennedy Magnetician. + C. A. Hoadley Geologist. + G. Dovers Cartographer. + + In addition to these were the following gentlemen who accompanied + the Expedition for a portion of the time only or who joined later. + + S. N. Jeffryes Wireless Operator, who relieved + W. H. Hannam during 1913. + E. R. Waite (Curator, Canterbury Museum, Christchurch), + Biologist, first Sub-Antarctic cruise of + 'Aurora'. + Professor T. T. Flynn (Hobart University), Biologist, second + Sub-Antarctic cruise of 'Aurora'. + J. van Waterschoot Marine Artist, second Antarctic cruise of + van der Gracht 'Aurora'. + Captain James Davis Whaling authority, second Antarctic cruise + of 'Aurora'. + C. C. Eitel Secretary, second Antarctic cruise of 'Aurora'. + N. C. Toucher, and later Served in the capacity of Chief Officer + F. D. Fletcher on the 'Aurora' during the earlier voyages. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + + Signatures of members of the land parties in Antarctica and at + Macquarie Island +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [Accounts of the members of the expedition, in alphabetical order.] + + G. F. AINSWORTH, thirty** years of age, single, was born in Sydney, + New South Wales. His services were loaned to the expedition by the + Commonwealth Meteorological Bureau, Melbourne. For a period of two + years he acted as leader of the Macquarie Island Party, carrying out + the duties of Meteorologist. In the summer of 1913-1914 he visited + the Antarctic during the final cruise of the 'Aurora'. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** The ages refer to the date of joining the Expedition and are but + approximate. + + R. BAGE, twenty-three years of age, single, was a graduate in + Engineering of Melbourne University and a lieutenant in the Royal + Australian Engineers. A member of the Main Base Party (Adelie Land) + and leader of the Southern Sledging Party, he remained in the + Antarctic for two years. During the first year he was in charge of + chronometers, astronomical observations and tidal records, and + throughout the second year continued the magnetic work and looked + after stores. + + F. H. BICKERTON, F.R.G.S., twenty-two years of age, single, was born + at Oxford, England. Had studied engineering: joined the Expedition + as Electrical Engineer and Motor Expert. A member of the Main Base + Party and leader of the Western Sledging Party, he remained in the + Antarctic for two years, during which time he was in charge of the + air-tractor sledge, and was engineer to the wireless station. For + a time, during the second year, he was in complete charge of the + wireless plant. + + J. H. BLAIR, twenty-four years of age, single, was born in Scotland. + For five years he served with the Loch Line of Glasgow as apprentice + and third mate. As second mate he joined A. Currie and Company, of + Melbourne, in the Australian-Indian trade, reaching the rank of first + mate, in which capacity he acted during the final Antarctic cruise of + the 'Aurora' in the summer of 1913-14. + + L. R. BLAKE, twenty-one years of age, single, was born in England, + but had lived for many years in Queensland previous to joining the + Expedition. Before accompanying the Macquarie Island Party as + Geologist and Cartographer, he obtained leave from the Geological + Survey Department, Brisbane. He visited the Antarctic during the + final cruise of the 'Aurora' in the summer of 1913-1914. + + J. H. Close, F.R.G.S., forty years of age, married, was born in + Sydney, New South Wales. During the South African War he saw active + service in Rhodesia, and at the time of the Expedition's departure was + a teacher of physical culture at Sydney. A member of the Main Base + Party (Adelie Land) and of several sledging parties, he spent two + summers and one winter in the Antarctic. + + P. E. CORRELL, nineteen years of age, single, was a student in + Science of the Adelaide University. He joined the Expedition + as Mechanician and Assistant Physicist. He was a member of the Main + Base Party accompanying the Eastern Coastal Party during their + sledging journey. He spent three summers and one winter in the + Antarctic, acting as colour photographer during the final cruise of + the 'Aurora'. + + J. E. DAVIS, twenty-eight years of age, single, was master of the + 'Aurora' and Second-in-Command of the Expedition. Born in Ireland and + educated in England, he served his apprenticeship on the Liverpool + owned sailing-ship, 'Celtic Chief', obtaining his certificate + as second mate before joining the barque 'Westland' trading between + England and New Zealand. His next post was that of second officer on + the training ship 'Port Jackson', following which he joined Sir Ernest + Shackleton's Expedition (1907-1909) as chief officer of the 'Nimrod', + acting subsequently as master. Throughout the whole period of the + Australasian Antarctic Expedition (1911-1914) Captain J. K. Davis + commanded the 'Aurora' during five cruises. + + G. DOVERS, twenty-one years of age, single, of Sydney, New South Wales, + was completing his term for Licensed Surveyor in the service of the + Commonwealth Government when he joined the Expedition. He was in + the Antarctic for two summers and one winter, being stationed with the + Western Party (Queen Mary Land). A member of several sledging parties, + he acted as Cartographer to the party which reached Gaussberg. + + F. J. GILLIES, thirty-five years of age, single, was born at Cardiff, + Wales. He served his apprenticeship as an engineer on the steamers of + John Shearman and Company and P. Baker and Company of Cardiff. For + six years previous to joining the Expedition he was in the Indian trade. + Throughout the five cruises of the 'Aurora' between 1911 and 1914 F. J. + Gillies was Chief Engineer. + + P. GRAY, twenty-two years of age, single, was born and educated in + England. He served on the 'Worcester' as cadet captain for eighteen + months and as apprentice on the 'Archibald Russell', of Glasgow, and + in the New Zealand Shipping Company. In 1909 he entered the Peninsula + and Oriental Company and reached the rank of third officer, joining + the Australasian Antarctic Expedition as second officer of the 'Aurora'. + Throughout five cruises, from 1911 to 1914, he served in this capacity. + + H. HAMILTON, twenty-six years of age, single, was born at Napier, New + Zealand. Graduate of the Otago University. Besides being employed on + the New Zealand Geological Survey, he acted as Entomological Collector + to the Dominion Museum at Wellington. A member of the Macquarie + Island Party, of which he was the Biologist for two years, H. Hamilton + visited the Antarctic during the final cruise of the 'Aurora' in the + summer of 1913-1914. + + W. H. HANNAM, twenty-six years of age, single, was of Sydney, New + South Wales, and joined the Expedition in charge of the arrangements + for a wireless telegraphic system. He was in the Antarctic at the + Main Base (Adelie Land) for two summers and a winter, and was + successful in transmitting wireless messages for a short time during + 1912 through Macquarie Island to Australia, assistant magnetician for + a time. + + C. T. HARRISSON, forty-three years of age, married, was born in + Hobart, Tasmania. For many years previous to joining the Expedition + he had done illustrative and artistic work and had been engaged on a + survey and in botanical and other scientific observations on the west + coast of Tasmania. Stationed with the Western Base (Queen Mary Land) + he acted as Biologist and Artist, accompanying F. Wild on his main + eastern journey and several other sledging parties. + + C. A. HOADLEY, twenty-four years of age, single, was a graduate in + Mining Engineering of Melbourne University. A member of F. Wild's + Western Party (Queen Mary Land), he took part in several sledging + journeys and was Geologist of the party who explored westwards to + Gaussberg. + + A. J. HODGEMAN, twenty-six years of age, single, was born at + Adelaide, South Australia. For four years he was an articled + architect, and for five years a draughtsman in the Works and Buildings + Department, Adelaide. A member of the Main Base Party (Adelie Land), + he took part in several sledging journeys, and throughout two years + in the Antarctic acted in the capacity of Cartographer and Sketch + Artist, as well as that of Assistant Meteorologist. + + J. G. HUNTER, twenty-three years of age, single, was a graduate in + Science of Sydney University, New South Wales. A member of the Main + Base Party (Adelie Land) he carried on the work of Biologist during + two summers and one winter; and in the same capacity accompanied + the 'Aurora' in her final summer cruise 1911-1914. + + J. F. HURLEY, twenty-four years of age, single, was of Sydney, New + South Wales. He had been the recipient of many amateur and professional + awards for photographic work before joining the Expedition. At the + Main Base he obtained excellent photographic and cinematographic records + and was one of the three members of the Southern Sledging Party. He + was also present on the final cruise of the 'Aurora'. + + S. N. JEFFRYES, twenty-seven years of age, single, of Towoomba, + Queensland, was a qualified operator of the Australasian Wireless + Company. During the second year (1913) he took W. H. Hannam's place + in charge of the wireless plant, wintering at the Main Base (Adelie + Land). + + S. E. JONES, twenty-four years of age, single, was a graduate in + Medicine of Sydney University, New South Wales. A member and Medical + Officer of F. Wild's Western Base (Queen Mary Land), he took part in + several sledging journeys during 1912 and was leader of the party who + explored westward to Gaussberg. + + A. L. KENNEDY, twenty-two years of age, single, was a student in + Science of Adelaide University, South Australia. Receiving special + tuition, he acted as Magnetician at the Western Base (Queen Mary + Land) during the year 1912. He was a member of several sledging + parties and accompanied F. Wild on his main eastern journey as + Cartographer. + + C. F. LASERON, twenty-five years of age, single, had gained a + Diploma in Geology at the Technical College, Sydney, New South Wales, + and for some years was Collector to the Technological Museum. At the + Main Base (Adelie Land), during 1912, he acted as Taxidermist and + general Collector, taking part, as well, in sledging journeys to the + south and east of Winter Quarters. + + C. T. MADIGAN, twenty-three years of age, single, was a graduate in + Science (Mining Engineering) of Adelaide University, South Australia. + Through the courtesy of the Trustees of the Rhodes Scholarship, the + necessary leave to accompany the Expedition was granted just as he + was on the eve of continuing his studies at Oxford University. A + member of the Main Base Party (Adelie Land) he acted as Meteorologist + for two years, and during the second year (1913) was also in charge of + the Greenland dogs. An important journey in the spring and one to + the east in the summer were made under his leadership, and the Party, + left in Adelie Land in 1913, was to have been under his charge, but + for my return. + + D. MAWSON, thirty years of age, single, was the Organiser and Leader + of the Australasian Antarctic Expedition and was, previous to it, a + member of Sir Ernest Shackleton's Antarctic Expedition of 1907-1909, + being one of the party under Professor David which reached the South + Magnetic Pole. A graduate in Science and Engineering of Sydney and + Adelaide Universities, he had filled for some time the post of + Lecturer in Mineralogy and Petrology at the Adelaide University. + The only survivor of a party sledging to the east from the Main Base + in the summer of 1912-1913. + + A. L. McLEAN, twenty-six years of age, single, was a graduate in Arts + and Medicine of Sydney University; New South Wales. He acted as + Chief Medical Officer at the Main Base (Adelie Land) and carried out + observations in Bacteriology and Physiology during the first year. + In 1913 (the second year) he was Biologist, Ice-Carrier and Editor of + the 'Adelie Blizzard'. He took part in a sledging journey along the + eastern coast in the summer of 1912-1913. + + X. MERTZ, twenty-eight years of age, single, of Basle, Switzerland, + was a graduate in Law of the Universities of Leipzig and Berne. Prior + to joining the Expedition he had gained the Ski-running Championship + of Switzerland and was an experienced mountaineer. At the Main Base + (Adelie Land) he was assisted by B. E. S. Ninnis in the care of + the Greenland dogs. On January 7, 1913, during a sledging journey, + he lost his life, one hundred miles south-east of Winter Quarters. + + C. P. DE LA MOTTE, nineteen years of age, single, of Bulli, New + South Wales, had early training at sea on the barque 'Northern Chief' + of New Zealand, obtaining his certificate as second mate in March + 1911. During the eight months prior to joining the Expedition he + served as fourth officer on the S.S. 'Warrimoo' of the Union Steamship + Company of New Zealand. Throughout the five cruises of the 'Aurora' + between 1911 and 1914, C. P. de la Motte was third officer with the + Ship's party. + + M. H. MOYES, twenty-five years of age, single, of Koolunga, South + Australia, was a graduate in Science of Adelaide University. With the + Western Base Party (Queen Mary Land) he acted as Meteorologist and + took part in several sledging journeys in the autumn and spring of + 1912. During the summer of 1912-1913, through an unavoidable + accident, he was left to carry on work alone at Winter Quarters for + a period of nine weeks. + + H. D. MURPHY, thirty-two years of age, single, of Melbourne, + one-time Scholar in History of Oxford University. At the outset he + was to have been leader of a third Antarctic Base which was eventually + amalgamated with the Main Base (Adelie Land). Here he had charge of + the stores and during the early summer of 1912 was leader of the + Southern Supporting Party. + + B. E. S. NINNIS, twenty-three years of age, single, was educated at + Dulwich, England, and entered His Majesty's Army, having a commission + as Lieutenant in the Royal Fusiliers prior to joining the Expedition + in London. At the Main Base (Adelie Land) he was assisted by X. Mertz + in the care of the Greenland dogs. On December 14, 1912, while on a + sledging journey, he lost his life by falling into a crevasse three + hundred miles east of Winter Quarters. + + C. A. SANDELL, twenty-five years of age, single, of Surrey, England, + studied electrical engineering for some years and then came to + Australia in 1909 and entered the Commonwealth Branch of Telephony. + Having a practical knowledge of wireless telegraphy he joined the + Expedition as a Wireless Operator and Mechanic and was stationed with + the Macquarie Island Party for two years. After the departure of A. + J. Sawyer in August 1913, he was in complete charge of the wireless + station. C. A. Sandell visited the Antarctic during the final + cruise of the 'Aurora' in the summer of 1913-1914. + + A. J. SAWYER, twenty-six years of age, single, was born in New + Zealand. Having had considerable experience in wireless telegraphy, + he joined the Expedition as an operator from the Australasian Wireless + Company. At the Macquarie Island Station he was chief wireless until + August 1913, when on account of illness he returned to New Zealand. + + F. L. STILLWELL, twenty-three years of age, single, was a graduate + in Science of Melbourne University, Victoria. A member of the Main + Base Party (Adelie Land) he acted as Geologist. F. L. Stillwell + was leader of two sledging parties who did detail work for about sixty + miles along the coast eastward of Winter Quarters. + + A. D. WATSON, twenty-four years of age, single, was a graduate in + Science of Sydney University, New South Wales. A member of the + Western Base Party (Queen Mary Land) he acted as Geologist. A. D. + Watson took part in several sledging journeys, accompanying F. Wild + in his main eastern trip during the summer of 1912-1913. + + E. N. WEBB, twenty-two years of age, single, was an Associate of + Civil Engineering of Canterbury University College, and, for the + five months previous to joining the Expedition, carried out magnetic + observations under the Carnegie Institute of Washington, U.S.A. At + the Main Base (Adelie Land) E. N. Webb was Chief Magnetician, + accompanying the Southern Sledging Party. + + L. A. WHETTER, twenty-nine years of age, single. He graduated at + Otago University, New Zealand, and joined the Expedition as Surgeon, + acting in that capacity at the Main Base (Adelie Land) during 1912. + He accompanied a sledging party which explored to the westward of + Winter Quarters. + + F. WILD, thirty-eight years of age, single, was Leader of the Western + Base Party (Queen Mary Land). He joined the Merchant Service in + 1889 and the Navy in 1900, served on an extended sledge journey + during the National Antarctic Expedition (Capt. R. F. Scott) of + 1901-1904, and was one of the Southern Party of Sir Ernest + Shackleton's Expedition from 1907-1909. During the Australasian + Expedition he opened up a new tract of country—Queen Mary Land. + + I desire to make special mention of the Ship's Party who faced the + rigorous conditions of Antarctica and the stormy Southern Ocean, + during five separate voyages, with a cheerfulness and devotion to duty + which will always stand to their lasting credit. In regions of heavy + pack-ice and sudden blizzard winds, Captain Davis piloted the Ship + safely through many situations of extreme danger. In a report to me + on the work of the Ship he writes an appreciative note:— + + "I wish to draw particular attention to the loyal way in which the + officers and men of the 'Aurora' supported me. Messrs. Toucher, + Fletcher, Blair, Gray, de la Motte, and Gillies, in their respective + positions, carried out the duties assigned to them with ability and + cheerfulness, often under very trying conditions. + + "Mr. Gillies not only looked after the engines but assisted + materially in the deep-sea work by the invention of a new form of + sounding driver which was used successfully during the various + cruises of the 'Aurora'. + + "The Chief Officer was in charge of the stores and equipment of the + Expedition on board the vessel, in addition to his ordinary executive + duties. Messrs. Toucher, Fletcher and Blair served in this capacity + on different voyages. + + "Mr. P. Gray, as Second and Navigating Officer, and Mr. C. P. de + la Motte, as Third Officer, acted capably and thoroughly throughout + the Expedition." + APPENDIX II + + Scientific Work +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + It should be remarked that there is no intention of furnishing + anything more than a suggestion of the general trend of the scientific + observations of the Expedition. The brief statement made below + indicates the broad lines on which the work was conducted and in some + cases the ground which was actually covered. It may thus give the + general reader a clue to the nature of the scientific volumes which + will serve to record permanently the results amassed during a period + of more than two years. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Terrestrial Magnetism + + 1. Field Work. + + (a) Dip determinations were made at Macquarie Island, on the eastern + and southern journeys from the Main Base (Adelie Land) and on a + short journey from the Western Base (Queen Mary Land). + + (b) Declination by theodolite observations was determined at + Macquarie Island and at intervals on all sledging journeys in the + Antarctic. + + (c) Rough observations of magnetic variation were made daily on the + 'Aurora' during her five cruises. + + 2. Station Work. + + (a) Regular magnetograph records were kept at the Main Base (Adelie Land) + for a period of eighteen months. A system of term days for quick runs + was also followed; Melbourne, Christchurch, and other stations co + operating. In connexion with the magnetograph work, Webb conducted + regular, absolute observations throughout the year 1912. Bage continued + the magnetograph records for a further six months in 1913, observed + term days, and took absolute observations. + + (b) At the Western Base (Queen Mary Land) Kennedy kept term days in + the winter, using a magnetometer and dip-circle. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Biology + + 1. Station Collections. + + (a) At Macquarie Island, Hamilton worked for two years amongst a rich + fauna and a scanty but interesting flora. Amongst other discoveries + a finch indigenous to Macquarie Island was found. + + (b) In Adelie Land, Hunter, assisted by Laseron, secured a large + biological collection, notwithstanding the continuous bad weather. + Dredgings from depths down to fifty fathoms were made during the + winter. The eggs of practically all the flying birds known along + Antarctic shores were obtained, including those of the silver-grey + petrel and the Antarctic petrel, which were not previously known; + also a variety of prion, of an unrecorded species, together with its + eggs. + + (c) At the Western Base (Queen Mary Land) eggs of the Antarctic and + other petrels were found, and a large rookery of Emperor penguins was + located; the second on record. Harrisson, working under difficulties, + succeeded in trapping some interesting fish on the bottom in two + hundred and fifty fathoms of water. + + 2. Ship Collections. + + (a) A collection made by Mr. E. R. Waite, Curator of the Canterbury + Museum, on the first Sub-Antarctic cruise. + + (b) A collection made by Professor T. T. Flynn, of Hobart, on the + second Sub-Antarctic cruise. + + (c) A collection made by Hunter, assisted by Hamilton, in Antarctic + waters during the summer of 1913-1914. This comprised deep-sea + dredgings at eleven stations in depths down to one thousand eight + hundred fathoms and regular tow-nettings, frequently serial, to + depths of two hundred fathoms. Six specimens of the rare Ross seal + were secured. A large collection of external and internal parasites + was made from birds, seals and fish. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Geology + + (a) A geological examination of Macquarie Island was made by Blake. + The older rocks were found to be all igneous. The Island has been + overridden in comparatively recent times by an ice-cap travelling + from west to east. + + (b) Geological collections at the Main Base. In Adelie Land the rocky + outcrops are metamorphic sediments and gneisses. In King George V + Land there is a formation similar to the Beacon sandstones and dolerites + of the Ross Sea, with which carbonaceous shales and coaly strata are + associated. + + (c) Stillwell met with a great range of minerals and rocks in the + terminal moraine near Winter Quarters, Adelie Land. Amongst them was + red sandstone in abundance, suggesting that the Beacon sandstone + formation extends also throughout Adelie Land but is hidden by the + ice-cap. A solitary stony meteorite was found by a sledging party + lying on the ice of the plateau. + + (d) In the collections made by Watson and Hoadley at the Western + Base (Queen Mary Land) gneisses and schists were ascertained to be + the predominant types. + + (e) A collection of erratics was brought up by the deep-sea trawl in + the course of dredgings in Antarctic waters. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Glaciology + + (a) Observations of the pack-ice, coastal glaciers and shelf-ice from + the 'Aurora' during her three Antarctic cruises. + + (b) Observations of the niveous and glacial features met with on the + sledging journeys from both Antarctic bases. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Meteorology + + (a) Two years' observations at Macquarie Island by Ainsworth + + (b) Two years' observations in Adelie Land by Madigan. + + (c) One year's observations in Queen Mary Land by Moyes. + + (d) Observations by the Ship on each of her five voyages. + + (e) Observations during the many sledging journeys from both + Antarctic Bases. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Bacteriology, etc. + + In Adelie Land, McLean carried out many months of steady work in + Bacteriology, Haematology and Physiology. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Tides + + Self-recording instruments were run at Macquarie Island by Ainsworth + and at Adelie Land by Bage. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Wireless and Auroral Observations + + A very close watch was kept upon auroral phenomena with interesting + results, especially in their relation to the "permeability" of the + ether to wireless waves. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Geographical Results + + 1. The successful navigation by the 'Aurora' of the Antarctic pack + ice in a fresh sphere of action, where the conditions were practically + unknown, resulting in the discovery of new lands and islands. + + 2. Journeys were made over the sea-ice and on the coastal and upland + plateau in regions hitherto unsurveyed. At the Main Base (Adelie + Land) the journeys aggregated two thousand four hundred miles, and at + the Western Base (Queen Mary Land) the aggregate was eight hundred + miles. These figures do not include depot journeys, the journeys of + supporting parties, or the many miles of relay work. The land was + mapped in through 33 degrees of longitude, 27 degrees of which were + covered by sledging parties. + + 3. The employment of wireless telegraphy in the fixation of a + fundamental meridian in Adelie Land. + + 4. The mapping of Macquarie Island. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS] + + A Section of the Antarctic Plateau from the Coast to a Point Three + Hundred Miles Inland, along the Route followed by the Southern + Sledging Party (Adelie Land) + + A Section across the Antarctic Continent through the South Magnetic + Pole from the D'Urville Sea to the Ross Sea; Compiled from Observations + made by the British Antarctic Expedition (1907-1909) and by the + Australian Antarctic Expedition (1911-1914) +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Oceanography + + 1. By soundings the fringe of the Antarctic Continent as well as the + Continental Shelf has been indicated through 55 degrees of longitude. + + 2. The configuration of the floor of the ocean southward of Australia + and between Macquarie Island and the Auckland Islands has been broadly + ascertained. + + 3. Much has been done in the matter of sea-water temperatures and + salinities. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS] + + A Section of the Floor of the Southern Ocean between Tasmania + and King George V Land + + A Section of the Floor of the Southern Ocean between Western + Australia and Queen Mary Land +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + APPENDIX Ill + + An Historical Summary** +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** For this compilation reference has been largely made to Dr. H. R. + Mill's "The Siege of the South Pole." Several doubtful voyages + during the early part of the nineteenth century have been omitted. + + 1775. James Cook circumnavigated the Globe in high southern + latitudes, discovering the sub-antarctic island of South Georgia. + He was the first to cross the Antarctic Circle. + + 1819. William Smith, the master of a merchant vessel trading between + Montevideo and Valparaiso, discovered the South Shetland Islands. + + 1819. Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen, despatched in command of an + Expedition by the Emperor, Alexander I of Russia, with instructions + to supplement the voyage of Captain Cook, circumnavigated the + Antarctic continent in high southern latitudes. The first discovery + of land south of the Antarctic Circle was made, namely, Peter I Island + and Alexander I Land (also an island), in the American Quadrant of + Antarctica. + + 1820. Nathaniel Palmer, master of an American sealing-vessel, sighted + new land to the south of the South Shetland Islands. It seems clear + that he was the first to view what is now known as the Palmer + Archipelago (1820-21). + + 1823. James Weddell, a British sealer, sailing southward of the + Atlantic Ocean, reached 74 degrees 15' south latitude in the American + Quadrant, establishing a "farthest south" record. + + 1830. John Biscoe, a whaling master of the British firm of Enderby + Brothers, sailed on a voyage circumnavigating the Antarctic Regions. + Enderby Land was discovered south of the West Indian Ocean in the + African Quadrant of Antarctica. This was apparently a part of the + Antarctic continent. New land was also met with to the south of + America and charted as Graham's Land, Biscoe Island and Adelaide + Island. + + Kemp, a sailing master of Enderby Brothers, extended Biscoe's + discoveries shortly after by the report of land east of, and + adjacent to, Enderby Land. + + Neither of these discoveries has yet been proved, though Enderby Land + (Biscoe) undoubtedly exists. + + 1839. John Balleny, another of Enderby's whaling captains, discovered + the Balleny Islands within the Antarctic Circle, in the Australian + Quadrant of Antarctica, and gave a vague description of an appearance + of land to the westward. This has been charted on maps, without + adequate evidence, as Sabrina Land. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + + Antarctic Land Discoveries Preceding 1838 + + Note. This and the two following maps of the series illustrate land + discoveries only. In cases where the existence of land once reported + has since been disproved no record at all is shown +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1837. Jules Sebastian Cesar Dumont D'Urville, was despatched by King + Louis Philippe of France for the prosecution of scientific researches + on a voyage round the World. His cruise in the Antarctic resulted in + the charting of Joinville Island and Louis Philippe Land to the south + of America (American Quadrant) and the discovery of a portion of the + Antarctic continent, named Adelie Land, southward of Australia + (Australian Quadrant). + + 1838. Charles Wilkes, United States Navy, in accordance with a bill + passed by Congress, set out on an exploring expedition to circumnavigate + the World. His programme included the investigation of the area of + the Antarctic to the south of Australia—the Australian Quadrant. + The squadron composing this American expedition first visited the + Antarctic regions in the American Quadrant, and then proceeded eastward + round to the Australian Quadrant from which, after a long cruise, they + returned, reporting land at frequent intervals in the vicinity of the + Antarctic Circle between longitudes 157 degrees 46' E. and 106 degrees + 19' E. He shares with D'Urville the full honour of the discovery of + Adelie Land. Some of the supposed landfalls known to be non-existent. + + 1839. James Clark Ross proceeded south in charge of a scientific + expedition fitted out by the Admiralty at the instance of the British + Association for the Advancement of Science and approved of by the Royal + Society. His aim was to circumnavigate the Antarctic regions and to + investigate the Weddell Sea. The geographical results were fruitful; + the Ross Sea, the Admiralty Range and the Great Ice Barrier were + discovered and some eight hundred miles of Antarctic coastline were + broadly delineated. + + 1844. T. E. L. Moore was detailed by the Admiralty to supplement + the magnetic work of Ross and to explore to the southward of Africa + and of the Indian Ocean, but no additions were made to geographical + knowledge. + + 1872. Eduard Dallmann, whilst engaged in whaling with a German + steamer to the southward of America, added some details to the map of + the Palmer Archipelago but did not go further south than 64 degrees + 45' S. Iatitude. + + 1874. The 'Challenger' scientific expedition, under the command of + George Strong Nares, in the course of their voyage from the Cape to + Australia during the circumnavigation of the World penetrated within + the Antarctic Circle in longitude 78 degrees 22' E. + + 1892. A fleet of four Scottish whalers cruised through the north + western part of the Weddell Sea. Scientific observations were made + by W. S. Bruce and others, but no geographical discoveries were + recorded. + + 1892. C. A. Larsen, master of a Hamburg whaler, added important + details to the geography of the American Quadrant of Antarctica on + the western side of the Weddell Sea. + + 1894. Evensen, master of another Hamburg whaler, brought back further + information of the American Quadrant on the Pacific Ocean side. + + 1895. H. J. Bull organized a whaling venture and with Leonard + Kristensen, master of the ship, revisited the Ross Sea area where + a landing was made at Cape Adare (Australian Quadrant). This was the + first occasion on which any human being had set foot on the Antarctic + continent. + + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + + Antarctic land Discoveries Preceding 1896 (A. J. Hodgeman) +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1897. Adrien de Gerlache sailed from Belgium on a scientific exploring + expedition to the American Quadrant. Important additions were made to + the map, but the ship became frozen into the pack-ice and drifted about + for a whole year south of the Antarctic Circle. The members of this + expedition were the first to experience an Antarctic winter. Antarctic + exploration now entered upon a new era. + + 1898. Carstens Egeberg Borchgrevink led an expedition, fitted out by + Sir George Newnes; its objective being the Ross Sea area. Further + details were added to the map, but the most notable fact was that the + expedition wintered at Cape Adare, on the mainland itself. The Great + Ross Barrier was determined to be thirty miles south of the position + assigned by Ross in 1839. + + 1898. Chun of Leipsig, in charge of the 'Valdivia' Expedition, carried + out oceanographical researches far to the south, in the vicinity of + Enderby Land (African Quadrant), though he did not come within sight + of the continent. + + 1901. Robert Falcon Scott, in command of the 'Discovery' Expedition, + organised by the Royal Geographical Society and Royal Society with + the co-operation of the Admiralty, in accordance with a scheme of + international endeavour, passed two winters at the southern extremity + of the Ross Sea and carried out many successful sledging journeys. + Their main geographical achievements were: the discovery of King + Edward VII Land; several hundred miles of new land on a "farthest + south" sledging journey to latitude 82 degrees 17' S.; the discovery + of the Antarctic plateau; additional details and original contributions + to the geography of the lands and islands of the Ross Sea. + + 1901. A German national expedition, led by Erich von Drygalski, set + out for the region south of the Indian Ocean. After a small party + had been stationed on Kerguelen Island, the main party proceeded + south close to the tracks of the Challenger. They came within sight + of Antarctic shores but were frozen into the pack-ice for a whole + year. Kaiser Wilhelm II Land was discovered close to the junction + between the Australian and African Quadrants. + + 1901. A Swedish national expedition, planned and led by Otto + Nordenskjold, wintered for two years on Snow Hill Island in the + American Quadrant, and did much valuable scientific work. + + 1902. William Speirs Bruce organized and led a Scottish expedition to + the Weddell Sea, southward of the Atlantic Ocean. The party effected + notable oceanographic researches and wintered at the South Orkney + Islands, but were foiled in their attempt to penetrate the pack-ice. + During the second season, conditions were more favourable and the ship + reached Coats Land in 74 degrees 1' S. Iatitude. + + 1903. Jean Charcot organized and led a French expedition to the + American Quadrant and there added many details to the existing chart. + + 1907. Ernest Henry Shackleton organized and led a British + expedition with the main object of reaching the South Geographical + Pole. His party wintered at Cape Royds, McMurdo Sound, and two main + sledging parties set out in the early summer. E. H. Shackleton's + party ascended the Antarctic plateau and penetrated to within ninety + seven geographical miles of the South Pole, discovering new land beyond + Scott's "farthest south." T. W. Edgeworth David's party reached the + South Magnetic Polar Area, filling in many details of the western coast + of McMurdo Sound. + + 1908. Jean Charcot organized and led a second French expedition to + extend the work accomplished in 1903 in the American Quadrant. He was + successful in discovering new land still further to the south. + Loubet, Fallieres and Charcot Lands, towards and beyond Alexander I + Land, were added to the map of Antarctica. + + 1910. Roald Amundsen organized an expedition for scientific research + in the vicinity of the North Pole but changed his plans, eventually + heading for the South Pole. The expedition wintered on the Ross + Barrier near King Edward VII Land, from which point he set out and + attained the South Geographical Pole, mapping in new land on the way. + Another party visited King Edward VII Land. + + 1910. Robert Falcon Scott led a second Antarctic expedition, the main + object of which was to reach the South Geographical Pole. The + principal party wintered near his old winter quarters at Hut Point, + McMurdo Sound. A second party was landed at Cape Adare. Scott + reached the Pole soon after the Norwegian Amundsen, but he and his + party perished on the return journey. Other parties added details to + the map of Victoria Land. Oates Land was sighted from the ship to the + westward of Cape Adare in the Australian Quadrant. + + 1910. A Japanese expedition sailed to the Ross Sea, but on account of + the lateness of the season was forced to turn back without landing. + The winter was spent at Sydney, New South Wales. Next year a summer + visit was made to the South, but no additional land discoveries were + made. + + 1911. A German expedition, led by Wilhelm Filchner, proceeded to the + Weddell Sea; the South Pole being its objective. The party + succeeded in reaching further south in that region than any previous + navigators and discovered new land, to be named Prince Luitpold Land. + They were driven northwards amongst the pack in a blizzard and spent + the winter frozen in south of Coats Land. + + [TEXT ILLUSTRATION] + + A Map of the Antarctic Regions as Known at the Present Day + 1915 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + APPENDIX IV + + Glossary + + Oceanography. The study of the ocean, including the shape and + character of its bed, the temperature and salinity of the water at + various depths, the force and set of its currents, and the nature of + the creatures and plants which haunt its successive zones. + + Neve. [n,e acute, v, e acute] The compacted snow of a snow-field; + a stage in the transition between soft, loose snow and glacier-ice. + + Sastrugi. The waves caused by continuous winds blowing across the + surface of an expanse of snow. These waves vary in size according to + the force and continuity of the wind and the compactness of the snow. + The word is of Russian derivation (from zastruga [sing.], zastrugi + [pl.] ), denoting snow-waves or the irregularities on the surface of + roughly-planed wood. + + Ice-foot. A sheath of ice adhering along the shores of polar lands. + The formation may be composed of attached remnants of floe-ice, + frozen sea-spray and drift-snow. + + Nunatak. An island-like outcrop of rock projecting through a sheet of + enveloping land-ice. + + Shelf-ice. A thick, floating, fresh water ice-formation pushing out + from the land and continuous with an extensive glacier. Narrow + prolongations or peninsulas of the shelf-ice may be referred to as + ice-tongues or glacier-tongues. + + Barrier is a term which has been rather loosely applied in the + literature of Antarctic Exploration. Formerly it was used to + describe a formation, which is mainly shelf-ice, known as the Great + Ross Barrier. Confusion arose when "Barrier" came to be applied to + the seaward ice-cliff (resting on rock) of an extensive sheet of + land-ice and when it was also employed to designate a line of + consolidated pack-ice. Spelt with a small "b" the term is a + convenient one, so long as it carries its ordinary meaning; it seems + unnecessary to give it a technical connotation. + + Blizzard. A high wind at a low temperature, accompanied by drifting, + not necessarily falling snow. + + Floe or Floe-ice. The comparatively flat, frozen surface of the sea + intersected by cracks and leads (channels of open water). + + Pack or Pack-ice is a field of loose ice originating in the main from + broken floe, to which may be added material from the disintegration + of bergs, and bergs themselves. + + Brash or Brash-ice. Small, floating fragments of ice—the debris of + larger pieces—usually observed bordering a tract of pack-ice. + + Bergschrund has been "freely rendered" in the description of the + great cleft between the lower part of the Denman Glacier and the + Shackleton Shelf-Ice (Queen Mary Land). In a typical glacier, "the + upper portion is hidden by neve and often by freshly fallen snow + and is smooth and unbroken. During the summer, when little snow + falls, the body of the glacier moves away from the snow-field and a + gaping crevasse of great depth is usually established, called a + 'Bergschrund', which is sometimes taken as the upper limit of the + glacier" ("Encyclopaedia Britannica"). + + Sub-Antarctica. A general term used to denote the area of ocean, + containing islands and encircling the Antarctic continent, between the + vicinity of the 50th parallel of south latitude and the confines of + the ice-covered sea. + + Seracs are wedged masses of icy pinnacles which are produced in the + surface of a glacier by dragging strains which operate on crevassed + areas. A field of such pinnacles, jammed together in broken + confusion, is called serac-ice + + The following colloquial words or phrases occurring in the narrative + were largely determined by general usage: + To depot = to cache or to place a stock of provisions in a depot; + drift = drift-snow; + fifty-mile wind = a wind of fifty miles an hour; + burberry = "Burberry gabardine" or specially prepared wind-proof + clothing; + whirly (pi. whirlies) = whirlwind carrying drift-snow and pursuing a + devious track; + night-watchman = night-watch; + glaxo = "Glaxo" (a powder of dried milk); + primus = primus stove used during sledging; + hoosh = pemmican and plasmon biscuit "porridge"; + tanks = canvas bags for holding sledging provisions; + boil-up = sledging meal; + ramp = bank of snow slanting away obliquely on the leeward side of an + obstacle; + radiant = an appearance noted in clouds (especially cirro-stratus) + which seem to radiate from a point on the horizon + + The following appended list may be of biological interest: + + Birds Aves + + Emperor penguin Aptenodytes forsteri + King penguin Aptenodytes patagonica + Adelie penguin Pygoscelis adeliae + Royal penguin Catarrhactes schlegeli + Victoria penguin Catarrhactes pachyrynchus + Gentoo or Rockhopper penguin Pygoscelis papua + + Wandering albatross Diomedea exulans + Mollymawk or Black-browed albatross Diomedea melanophrys + Sooty albatross Phoebetria fuliginosa + Giant petrel or nelly Ossifraga gigantea + MacCormick's skua gull Megalestris maccormicki + Southern skua gull Megalestris antarctica + Antarctic petrel Thalassoeca antarctica + Silver-grey petrel or southern fulmar Priocella glacialoides + Cape pigeon Daption capensis + Snow petrel Pagodroma nivea + Lesson's petrel Oestrelata lessoni + Wilson petrel Oceanites oceanicus + Storm petrel Fregetta melanogaster + Cape hen Majaqueus oequinoctialis + Small prion or whale bird Prion banksii + Crested tern Sterna sp. + Southern black-backed or Dominican gull Larus dominicanus + Macquarie Island shag Phalacrocorax traversi + Mutton bird Puffinus griseus + Maori hen or "weka" Ocydromus scotti +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Seals Pinnipedia + + Sea elephant Macrorhinus leoninus + Sea-leopard Stenorhynchus leptonyax + Weddell seal Leptonychotes weddelli + Crab-eater seal Lobodon carcinophagus + Ross seal Ommatophoca rossi + + Whales and Dolphins Cetacea + + Rorqual, finner, or blue whale Balaenoptera sibbaldi + Killer whale Orca gladiator +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + APPENDIX V + + Medical Reports +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Western Base (Queen Mary Land) + + by S. E. Jones, M.B., CH.M. + + There was a very marked absence of serious illness during the whole + period of our stay at the Base. After the 'Aurora' left Adelie Land + on January 19, 1912, for her western cruise, an epidemic of influenza + broke out. It should be noted that one case occurred on the voyage + south from Hobart, and then an interval of almost a month occurred + before the infection spread. An interesting feature of the outbreak + was the fact that the recovery of those who were convalescing, when + we arrived at Queen Mary Land, was much more rapid than was the case + with those whose convalescence occurred on the Ship. + + By the careful use of snow-goggles during the summer, snow-blindness + was practically prevented, and such cases as occurred yielded quickly + when zinc and cocaine tablets were used and the eyes obtained rest. + An undoubted factor in the causation of snow-blindness is the strain + caused by the continual efforts at visual accommodation made + necessary on dull days when the sun is obscured, and there is a + complete absence of all light-and-shade contrast. + + Although frostbites were frequent during the winter months, immediate + attention to the restoration of circulation prevented the occurrence + of after-effects, so that no one suffered the loss of any more tissue + than the superficial epithelium. The nose, ears, fingers and toes + were the parts which suffered first. + + Our supplies of food were excellent in point of view of variety. Some + tinned onions were responsible for several mild attacks of poisoning, + but these were not used after our first experience. There was no sign + of scurvy in any form. + + Hoadley, on one occasion, had an unpleasant experience. He was alone + in the hut sleeping one night when he awoke to find the room filled + with smoke. On going outside he found that the chimney had become + blocked with snow; as the fire was banked, the hut was filled with the + gases from the imperfect combustion of the coal. It was three or four + days before Hoadley recovered from his experience, having marked + symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. + + On my return from the Western Depot journey I found that Wild was + suffering from an attack of herpes zoster. The illness came on while + he was out sledging, and he suffered severely from the pain and + irritation. + + Beyond a few cases of minor illness, and one or two accidents, there + was nothing of serious moment to report. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Main Base (Adelie Land) + + by A. L. McLean, M.B., CH.M., B.A. + + Throughout the whole period of the Expedition—from December 2, 1911, + to February 26, 1914—the health of the expedition was remarkably + good. Undoubtedly Antarctica has a salubrious climate, and it is + simply because one returns in a measure to the primitive that such an + ideal result is obtained. + + The first thing to resist is the cold, and additional clothing is the + first and adequate means to such an end. No one needs to be specially + inured to a rigorous climate. If he has a normal circulation he + immediately reacts to a new set of temperature conditions, and in a + few weeks may claim to be acclimatized. Most of the members of the + expedition were Australians, so that the change of latitudes was + rather abrupt but none the less stimulating and healthful. + + Appetite for food had suddenly a new piquancy, hard manual work was + a pleasure in a novel and wonderful environment, the intellect and + imagination were quickened and the whole man embodied the mens sana + in corpore sano. That is why illness was practically unknown for more + than two years; and, further, it may be said with partial truth that + in the high sense of physical and mental fitness he possessed for a + time, lies the explanation of the proverbial desire of an explorer + to return to the ice-lands. + + Regular monthly examinations of the blood were made from the date of + leaving Hobart in December 1911 until October 1912, with an interval + of about nine weeks between the first and second examinations. The + haemoglobin or red colouring-matter went up with a leap and then very + steadily increased in amount during the winter months in Adelie Land. + The blood pressure became slightly more marked, the weight increased, + but as one might have expected, the resistance to ordinary civilized + germs was decreased. With regard to weight, the maximum amount gained + by a single individual during a period of eight weeks was almost two + stones, and every one became heavier by as much as ten pounds. As + clinical evidence of the loss in immunity may be quoted the epidemic + of influenza to which Dr. S. E. Jones referred. As well, it was noted + that several members had attacks of "boils" during the voyage + southward; in Adelie Land during 1912 there were two instances of acute + abscesses on the fingers (whitlows) and one jaw abscess. It appears as + if, with its new and unbounded energy of function, the body attempts to + throw oft its waste products. Then, too, experimental observations of + opsonic index pointed towards the lowering of resistance, and, by the + way, it was rather a remarkable fact that after a few months in Adelie + Land, staphylococcus pyogenes aureus—a common germ in civilization- + could not be cultivated artificially from the throat, nose or skin, of + six individuals from whom monthly bacteriological cultures were made. + + Within the Hut, at a temperature which ranged from 40 degrees to + 45 degrees F., the number of micro-organisms continuously increased, + if the exposure of agar plates at regular intervals (by night) gave + a true indication. The organisms were staphylocci albi, bacilli, yeasts, + and moulds; the latter overgrowing the plate after it had been for forty + eight hours in the incubator. + + Frostbites were common, but, perhaps for that reason, were not regarded + seriously. No one suffered permanent harm from being frost-bitten, + though in several cases rather extensive blisters formed and nails and + skin were lost. + + Whilst the Hut was being built, minor casualties often occurred; the + common remedy being to cover the injured part with a small piece of + gauze surrounded by adhesive tape; for open wounds will not heal + when exposed to the cold. The Greenland dogs had small accidents and + ailments which often required treatment. + + On sledging journeys snow-blindness was an affection which sooner or + later caught every one in an unguarded moment. That moment was when + he ceased to use goggles if the light were at all trying to his eyes. + Prevention came first, and then the "zinc and cocaine" cure. + + Adelie Land can only be regarded as an intolerable country in which + to live, owing to the never-ceasing winds. Usage and necessity + helped one to regard the weather in the best possible light; for the + sake of a few hours of calm which might be expected to occasionally + intervene between the long spells of the blizzards. It is, therefore, + with regret and some diffldence that I speak of the illness of Mr. S. + N. Jeffryes, who took up so conscientiously the duties of wireless + operator during the second year (1913); but upon whom the monotony + of a troglodytic winter life made itself felt. It is my hope that he + is fast recovering his former vigour and enthusiasm.** + + So many miles of sledging were done at both Antarctic Bases in a + climate which is surely without a parallel in the history of polar + travelling, the Ship was so often in jeopardy during her three main + cruises to the South, that we feel the meagre comment should be made + on our providential return to civilization with the loss of two + comrades whose memory will ever be imperishable to each one of us. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** With the advent of summer, Jeffryes became normal, but unfortunately + suffered a temporary relapse upon his return to Australia.—D. M. + APPENDIX VI + + Finance + + A General reference was made to the finances of the expedition in the + Introduction. Here is an extended statement which, more fully amplified + with a detailed list of donations, will be again published when + additional funds have been raised to pay off the debit balance and + establish equilibrium. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + GRANTS AND DONATIONS + + AUSTRALIA, January 1911: L + + Australasian Association for the Advancement of Science, L1000; + R. Barr Smith (South Australia), L100; Hugh Denison (Sydney), + L1000; Samuel Hordern (Sydney), L1000 (subsequently increased + to L2500)........................... 4,000 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + LONDON, June 1911: + + S. Hordern (Sydney), L1500 (second donation); Roderick Murchison + (Melbourne), L1000; W. A. Horn (South Australia), L1000; + Lord Strathcona, L1000; Eugene Sandow, L1050; Imperial Government, + L2000; Royal Geographical Society, L500; Lionel Robinson (Sydney), + L250; C. D. Mackellar, L150; G. P. Doolette, L150; G. Buckley, + L150; Lord Denman, L100; Madame Melba (Melbourne), L100; + S. Y. Buchanan, L100 (later increased to L200); Daily Mail,L100; + Messrs. Bullivants L100, &c., aggregating an additional L593.. 9,843 + + AUSTRALIA, October 1911: + + Sydney: Government grant, L7000; collected by L. + Professor David, L50; 'Sydney Morning Herald', + L100; Professor David's own donation and + lecture proceeds, L100............... 7,250 + + Melbourne: Government grant, L6000; collected by + Professor Masson, L70............... 6,070 + + Adelaide: Government grant, L5000; collected by + Mr. Piper, L250 (including Angus L100, Simpson L85, + Scarfe L50).................... 5,250 + + Hobart: Government grant, L500; collected, L55... 555 + Commonwealth grant 5,000 + ________ + 24,125 + + Carried forward...... 37,968 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + LONDON, 1913: Brought forward...... 37,969 + + Sir Lucas Tooth, L1000 (Sydney); Imperial Treasury, L1000; + Royal Geographical Society, L100; S. Y. Buchanan, L100; + Lady Scott, L100; Commander Evans, L100; other members of + Scott Expedition and general subscriptions, L227....... 2,627 + + Australia, 1913: + + Commonwealth grant, L5000; collected by Professor David + (approximately), L50...................... 5,050 + + Australia, 1914: + + Collected by Professor Masson (approximately), L80; + G. J. R. Murray (Adelaide), L100; Sir Samuel Way, L50..... 230 + + Collected in London, 1914.................... 10 + + Total moneys donated L45,885 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Assets realized and added to the fund: + + Sale of photos and newspaper articles, L490; sale + of ship and materials, L3699; lectures, films, &c., L726..... 4,915 + + Bills Owing ...... 5,932 5,932 + + Assets to be realized: + L + + In hand.................. 560 + Owing .................. 340 + Anticipated sale of gear......... 570 + —— + 1,470 + + Debit balance............. 4,462 + Total cost ** of Expedition........... 56,732 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + There is therefore a deficit of L4462 to be made up by the royalty + on the sale of the book, lectures, donations, &c., and the cost of + the publication of the scientific results, which will be approximately + L8000, has yet to be defrayed. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** An estimate of the cost of the expedition should also take + account of donations in kind, which, as can be gathered, were numerous. + Facilities offered by harbour boards and valuable assistance extended + in the matter of docking and repairing the 'Aurora', particularly in + the case of the State of Victoria, and to a less extent in New South + Wales. + + Then there were valuable contributions of coal, particularly by Mr. + J. Brown of Newcastle (N.S.W.), Mr. H. D. Murphy (Melbourne), + and the Lithgow Collieries Company. + APPENDIX VII +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Equipment + + Clothing + + With regard to the clothing, the main bulk was of woollen material + as supplied by Jaeger of London. This firm is unexcelled in the + production of camel's-hair garments and has supplied most polar + expeditions of recent years with underclothing, gloves, caps, and + the like. From the same firm we also secured heavy ski-boots, + finnesko-crampons, and the blankets which were used at Winter Quarters + at both Antarctic Bases. Some of the Jaeger woollens were damaged + by sea water on the voyage from London to Australia and were replaced + by Eagley goods; an Australian brand, which proved very satisfactory. + The Ship's Party were outfitted with Kaipoi woollens (New Zealand). + + Outer garments were made up to our design from Jaeger fleece by + tailors in Hobart. The suit consisted of a single garment, to be worn + with combination underclothing, and was calculated to meet the + requirements of a severe climate. + + An over-suit of wind-proof material, which may be worn when required, + is a necessary adjunct to woollen clothing. Such a suit should have + the additional properties of being light, strong, not readily + absorbing moisture, and not affected by the cold. Burberry + gabardine was found to possess all these properties, and two complete + suits were made up for each man. One suit consisted of three pieces, + whilst the other was made of two; the blouse-jacket and helmet of the + latter being combined. + + Furs, which were obtained from Norway, were restricted to sleeping + bags, finnesko or fur-boots, and wolfskin mitts (Lapland). + + The outfit of clothing for the party at Macquarie Island and on the + Ship, respectively, differed from that used in the Antarctic. Warmer + temperatures and wet conditions had to be taken into account, and so + rubber boots, oilskins, and rubberized materials were provided as + outer coverings. + + Food + + The food-stuffs were selected with at least as much consideration as + was given to any of the other requisites. The successful work of an + expedition depends on the health of the men who form its members, and + good and suitable food reduces to a minimum the danger of scurvy; a + scourge which has marred many polar enterprises. Thus our + provisioning was arranged with care and as a result of my previous + experience in the Antarctic with Sir Ernest Shackleton's Expedition. + + A summary which may be of possible use to future expeditions is + appended below: + + In the matter of canned meats we had some six tons of the excellent + Australian article supplied by the Sydney Meat Preserving Company, + Ramornie Meat Company (N.S.W.), Baynes Brothers (Brisbane), and the + Border (rabbit) Preserving Company of South Australia. For use on + the Ship three tons of salt beef and pork served to replenish the + "harness cask," largely obtained in Melbourne from Cook and Sons. + + For a ton of sauces and pickles we were indebted to Brand and Company + (London) and to Mason and Company (London). + + Of course fresh meat was consumed as far as possible; a number of + live sheep being taken by the 'Aurora' on each cruise. Some of these + were killed and dressed after reaching 60 degrees south latitude and + supplied our two Antarctic Bases with the luxury of fresh mutton + about once a week throughout a year. + + One ton of preserved suet came from the firms of Hugon (Manchester) + and Conrad (Adelaide). + + Almost all our bacon and ham, amounting to well over one ton, was of + the Pineapple Brand (Sydney), and to the firm which supplied them we + are indebted alike for the quality of its goods and for its generosity. + + Soups in endless variety, totalling two tons, came chiefly from the + Flemington Meat Preserving Company (Melbourne). + + Fours tons of canned fish were supplied by C. & E. Morton (London). + + Variety in vegetables was considered important. We decided to reduce + the amount of dried vegetables in favour of canned vegetables. About + six and a half tons of the latter in addition to one ton of canned + potatoes were consumed; from Laver Brothers (Melbourne) and Heinz + (Pittsburgh). There were one and a half tons of dried vegetables. + In addition, large quantities of fresh potatoes and other vegetables + were regularly carried by the 'Aurora', and many bags of new and old + potatoes were landed at the Main Base. In the frozen condition, the + former kept satisfactorily, though they were somewhat sodden when + thawed. The old potatoes, on the other hand, became black and useless, + partly owing to the comparatively high temperature of the ship's hold, + and in part to the warmth of the sun during the first few weeks in + Adelie Land. + + Canned fruits, to the extent of five tons, were supplied by Jones + Brothers (Hobart) and Laver Brothers (Melbourne). This stock was eked + out by some two and a half tons of dried fruits, chiefly from South + Australia. + + The management of Hartley (London) presented us with two tons of jam, + and James Keiller and Son (London) with one ton of marmalade. + + Of the twelve tons of sugar and half a ton of syrup consumed, all were + generously donated by the Colonial Sugar Refining Company (Sydney). + + For milk we were provided with two tons of Glaxo (a dry powder) which + was used at the land bases, and a ton and a half of Nestle's condensed + variety for use on the ship. + + Three tons of cereal meals, largely from Parsons (Sydney), were + consumed. + + As one might have expected, the amount of flour used was enormous. + In the thirteen tons of this commodity from Colman (London) there were + three varieties, self-rising, plain, and wheatmeal flour, encased in + stout metal linings within strong, well-finished cases of a convenient + size. Until required, the cases of flour were used to solidify the + break-wind on the southern side of the Hut. + + Bird and Company (Birmingham) more than satisfied our needs in the + matter of baking powder, custard powder, jelly crystals, and the + like. + + There was over half a ton of fancy biscuits of excellent quality and + great variety, for which we were indebted to Jacob and Company + (Dublin), Arnott Brothers (Sydney), and Patria Biscuit Fabriek + (Amsterdam). "Hardtack," the name by which a plain wholemeal + biscuit of good quality, made by Swallow and Ariell (Melbourne) was + known, constituted the greater part of the remaining two and a half + tons of ordinary biscuits. "Hardtack" was much appreciated as a + change from the usual "staff of life"—soda bread. + + For sledging we had secured one ton of biscuits specially prepared + by the Plasmon Company (London) containing 30 per cent. of plasmon. + These, together with one ton of pemmican and half a ton of emergency + ration prepared by the Bovril Company (London), are specially referred + to in the chapter on sledging equipment. + + Butter was an important item; the large stock of two and a half tons + coming from the Colac Dairying Company (Melbourne). The butter was + taken fresh in fifty-six lb. blocks, packed in the usual export + cases. On the 'Aurora' it was carried as deck-cargo, and at the Main + Base was stacked in the open air on the southern side of the Hut. At + the end of the second year (1913) it was still quite good; a fact + which speaks well for the climate as a refrigerator. Of Australian + cheese we used half a ton, and this was supplied in forty-pound + blocks. + + The firm of Messrs. Cadbury, well known for their cocoa and eating + chocolate, supplied us with these commodities, and receive our + unqualified praise for the standard of the articles and the way in + which they were packed. The total consumption was one ton of cocoa + and half a ton of chocolate. + + The three-quarters of a ton of tea was donated by "Te Sol" + (Guernsey) and Griffiths Brothers (Melbourne). In both cases the + articles were well packed and much appreciated. Half a ton of coffee + was used, partly supplied from London and partly donated by + Griffiths Brothers. + + Rose's (London) lime juice, as an antiscorbutic, was mainly reserved + for consumption on the Ship. This lime juice was much in favour as a + beverage. + + Other supplies, taken in bulk, and for which we are indebted to the + manufacturers, are: one ton of Cerebos Salt, half a ton of Castle + salt, one ton of Sunlight Soap, our complete requirements in toilet + soap from Pears, candles from Price, matches from Bryant and May + including special sledging vestas, and dried milk from the Trufood + Company. + + Sweets, which were used for dessert and on special occasions, were + presented by the firms of Fuller and Batger of London, and by Farrah + of Harrogate, &c. There were also small quantities of aerated waters, + ales, wines, and whisky for each Base.** At the Main Base, at least, + there was no demand for whisky until penguin omelettes became + fashionable. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** * Donated by Schweppes, Kopke, Burgoyne, and others. + + The smokers were well provided for by a generous donation of Capstan + tobaccos, cigarettes and cigars from the British American Tobacco + Company in London. At a later date, when our Macquarie Island party + was formed, the Sydney branch of the same firm met our added needs + with the same generosity. + + There are many other items which have not yet found a place in this + summary which cannot be acknowledged severally, but for which we are + none the less grateful. Mention is made of the following: Horlick's + Malted Milk, Neave's Health Diet, Brown and Polson's Cornflour, + International Plasmon Company's Plasmon chocolate and Plasmon powder, + Bovril and lime juice nodules manufactured by Bovril Limited, + Colman's Mustard and Groats, Flemington Meat Company's desiccated + soups, Seager's meats, Nestle's nut-milk chocolate, Escoffier's soups, + &c. + + The cooking range which served us well for two years in the Hut at + Adelie Land was from J. Smith and Wellstood (London); others were + presented by Metters (Adelaide). + + The total supply of foods purchased and donated aggregated quite one + hundred tons, exclusive of packing. Much of this was assembled in + London. In Australia the Government Produce Department of Adelaide + rendered valuable assistance. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + TABLE OF FOOD-SUPPLIES FOR A TWELVE-MAN BASE + + The following are the food requirements for a party of twelve men + wintering in the Antarctic. It is our own store list, with slight + modifications where these are found desirable. The figures are based + on the supposition that unlimited quantities of seal and penguin meat + can be had on the spot, and, furthermore, are ample for a second + year's requirements should the party be unavoidably detained. The + fare during the second year might be somewhat less varied, but would + otherwise be sufficient. Health was, of course, the first + consideration in this selection, but economy was also studied. The + quantities are stated in pounds weight. + + lbs. + Meats, tinned—Corned beef, 216; roast beef, 72; roast mutton, 72; + boiled mutton, 72; Irish stew, 216; assorted meats, 168, including + mutton cutlets, haricot mutton, ox tail, ox tongue, sausages, and + brawn; sheep's tongues, 288; special meats, 192, including rabbit, + hare, duck, fowl, and turkey................... 1296 + + Live sheep—16 sheep to be dressed south of 60 degrees S. latitude + (weight not included) + + Suet, tinned—400......................... 400 + + Bacon and Ham—Bacon in sides, packed in salt, 250; ham, 250... 500 + + Fish, tinned—Salmon, 360; haddocks, 96; kippered herrings, 216; + herrings in tomato sauce, 72; fresh herrings, 72; sardines, 300; + cods' roe, curried prawns, &c., 72.............., 1188 + + Soups, assorted tinned, 1152.................. 1152 + + Vegetables, fresh, in wooden cases—new potatoes, 1200; onions, + 3601560 + Tinned—potatoes, 864; onions, 216; peas, 450; + French beans, 450; spinach, 360; cabbage, 144; beetroot, 288; + carrots, 288; parsnips, 144; turnips, 108; celery, 144; + leeks, 72; champignons, 144; Boston baked beans, 144; + tomatoes, 288..................... 3240 + + Cereals and Dried Vegetables, &c.—Split peas, 112; lentils, 56; + marrowfat peas, 56; haricot beans, 56; barley, 72; rice, 252; + tapioca, 144; semolina, 56; macaroni, 56; rolled oats, 648; + cornflour, 156........................ 1664 + + Flour, including plain, wholemeal, and self-rising...... 4480 + Biscuits, &c.—Plasmon wholemeal, 1344; plain wholemeal, 560; + assorted sweet, 560; cake tinned, 224; plum pudding, 224.... 1712 + + Fruit, tinned in syrup—peaches, 288; pears, 288; plums, 288; + apricots, 288; pineapples, 288; apples, 288; gooseberries, 216; + cherries, 216; mulberries, 48; strawberries, 48; red currants, 48; + black currants, 48; raspberries, 48............... 2400 + + Dried fruits—Prunes, 112; apples, 112; peaches, 56; nectarines, 56; + apricots, 56; raisins seeded, 224; currants, 112; figs, 224; + dates, 112; candied peel, 56.................. 1120 + + Sweets, &c.—Eating chocolate (chiefly for sledging) 504; assorted + sweets, 168; crystallized fruits, 56; assorted nuts, 84..... 812 + + Milk—as dried powder, 2400................... 2400 + + Butter—in 56 lb. export cases, 1456.............. 1456 + + Cheese—in original blocks or tins, 240............. 240 + + Cocoa, Tea, and Coffee—Cocoa, 576; tea, 288; coffee, 288.... 1152 + + Sugar, Jam, &c.—Sugar, 3584; jam, 1456; marmalade, 448; + honey, 576; syrup, 288..................... 6352 + + Sauces, Pickles, &c.—Tomato sauce, 180; Worcester sauce, 135; + sweet pickles, 162; mango chutney, 81; assorted pickles + (first quality) 216; vinegar, 210............... 984 + + Cooking requisites—Baking powder (in addition to that in + selfrising flour) 56; sodium bicarbonate, 1; ground mixed spice, 3; + ground ginger, 4; whole cloves, 1; nutmegs, 2; assorted essences, 10; + desiccated cocoanut, 12; mixed dried herbs, 2; dried mint, 6; dried + parsley, 1; onion powder, 9; curry powder, 30; mustard, 30; black + pepper, 12; white pepper, 12; table salt, 784.......... 975 + + Soap, &c.—Soap, 448; soda, 168................. 616 + + (16 tons approx.) 35,699 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Note. These weights are exclusive of packing. When high southern + latitudes can be reached within three weeks, fresh eggs may be taken + with advantage, preferably unfertilized, but care should be taken to + freeze them as soon as possible, and not to allow them to thaw again + until required for use. It is advisable to take small quantities + of whisky, ale, wines and lime juice. Matches, candles, soap, and + other toilet requirements, kerosene and fuel are not reckoned with + here, appearing in a more general stores' list. Certain medical + comforts, such as malted milk and plasmon, may also be included. + + Medical Equipment + + The medical equipment consisted of a complete outfit of Burroughs + and Wellcome's drug's, dressings, &c., and Allen and Hanbury's + surgical instruments. Sets, varying in character with particular + requirements, were made up for the Ship and for each of the land + parties. Contained within the fifty-five boxes was a wonderful + assortment of everything which could possibly have been required + on a polar expedition. There was in addition a set of Burroughs + and Wellcome's medicines for the treatment of dogs. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Scientific Equipment + + The scope of our projected scientific work necessitated extensive + purchases, and these were amplified by loans from many scientific + bodies and individuals. + + Instruments for surveying and navigation were loaned by the Royal + Geographical Society and by the Admiralty, while many theodolites, + chronometers, and half-chronometer watches were manufactured to order. + + An assortment of oceanographical gear was generously supplied through + H. S. H. The Prince of Monaco, from the Institut Oceanographique + of Monaco. Dr. W. S. Bruce made similar donations and supervised the + construction of our largest deep-sea dredge. The three-thousand + fathom tapered steel cables and mountings, designed to work the + deep-water dredges, were supplied by Messrs. Bullivant. Appliances + were also loaned by Mr. J. T. Buchanan of the 'Challenger' Expedition + and by the Commonwealth Fisheries Department. The self-recording + tide-gauges we employed were the property of the New South Wales + Government, obtained through Mr. G. Halligan. + + The taxidermists' requirements, and other necessaries for the + preservation of zoological specimens, were for the most part purchased, + but great assistance was rendered through Professor Baldwin-Spencer + by the National Museum of Melbourne and by the South Australian Museum, + through the offices of Professor Stirling. Articles of equipment for + botanical work were loaned by Mr. J. H. Maiden, Director of the + Botanical Gardens, Sydney. + + A supply of heavy cameras for base-station work and light cameras for + sledging was purchased; our stock being amplified by many private + cameras, especially those belonging to F. H. Hurley, photographer of + the Expedition. Special Lumiere plates and material for colour + photography were not omitted, and, during the final cruise of the + 'Aurora', P. E. Correll employed the more recent Paget process for + colour photography with good results. + + The programme of magnetic work was intended to be as extensive as + possible. In the matter of equipment we were very materially assisted + by the Carnegie Institute through Dr. L. A. Bauer. An instrument + was also loaned through Mr. H. F. Skey of the Christchurch Magnetic + Observatory. A full set of Eschenhagen self-recording instruments + was purchased, and in this and in other dispositions for the magnetic + work we have to thank Dr. C. Chree, Director of the National Physical + Laboratory, and Dr. C. C. Farr of University College, Christchurch. + Captain Chetwynd kindly assisted in arrangements for the Ship's + compasses. + + Two complete sets of Telefunken wireless apparatus were purchased from + the Australasian Wireless Company. The motors and dynamos were got + from Buzzacott, Sydney, and the masts were built by Saxton and Binns, + Sydney. Manilla and tarred-hemp ropes were supplied on generous terms + by Melbourne firms (chiefly Kinnear). + + The meteorological instruments were largely purchased from Negretti + and Zambra, but a great number were loaned by the Commonwealth + Meteorological Department (Director, Mr. H. A. Hunt) and by the + British Meteorological Office (Director, Dr. W. N. Shaw). + + For astronomical work the following instruments were loaned, besides + transit-theodolites and sextants: a four-inch telescope by the + Greenwich Observatory through the Astronomer Royal: a portable + transit-theodolite by the Melbourne Observatory through the + Director, Mr. P. Baracchi; two stellar sidereal chronometers by + the Adelaide Observatory through the Astronomer, Mr. P. Dodwell. + + The apparatus for bacteriological and physiological work were got in + Sydney, in arrangements and suggestions for which our thanks are due + to Dr. Tidswell (Microbiological Laboratory) and Professor Welsh, of + Sydney University. + + Artists' materials were supplied by Winsor and Newton, London, while + the stationery was partly donated by John Sands, Limited, Sydney + + Geological, chemical, and physical apparatus were all acquired at the + instance of the several workers. + + Adjuncts, such as a calculating machine, a typewriter, and duplicator + were not forgotten.** +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ** Acceptable donations of various articles were made by the firms of + Ludowici, Sydney; Allen Taylor, Sydney; Sames and Company, Birmingham; + Gamage, London; Gramophone Company, London; the Acetylene Corporation, + London; Steel Trucks Ltd., &c. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + **Through the offices of Mr. C. A. Bang we are indebted to "De + Forenede Dampskibsselskab," of Copenhagen, for the transport of the + dogs from Greenland. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Apart from the acquisition of the instruments, there were long + preparations to be made in the arrangement of the scientific programme + and in the training of the observers. In this department the + Expedition was assisted by many friends. + + Thus Professor W. A. Haswell (Biology), Professor T. W. Edgeworth + David (Geology), and Mr. H. A. Hunt (Meteorology), each drew up + instructions relating to his respective sphere. Training in + astronomical work at the Melbourne Observatory was supervised by + Mr. P. Baracchi, Director, and in magnetic work by the Department + of Terrestrial Magnetism, Carnegie Institute (Director, Dr. L. A. + Bauer). Further, in the subject of magnetics, we have to thank + especially Mr. E. Kidston of the Carnegie Institute for field + tuition, and Mr. Baldwin of the Melbourne Observatory for + demonstrations in the working of the Eschenhagen magnetographs. + Professor J. A. Pollock gave us valuable advice on wireless and + other physical subjects. At the Australian Museum, Sydney, Mr. + Hedley rendered assistance in the zoological preparations. In the + conduct of affairs we were assisted on many occasions by Messrs. W. + S. Dun (Sydney), J. H. Maiden (Sydney), Robert Hall (Hobart), G. + H. Knibbs (Melbourne),and to the presidents and members of the + councils of the several Geographical Societies in Australia—as well, + of course, as to those of the Royal Geographical Society, London. + + In conclusion, the proffered, disinterested help, of all the above + and many other friends contrived to make our scientific equipment + well-nigh complete and eminently up-to-date. + INDEX + + Abrasion effects of drift snow, + Abruzzi expedition 1900, rations + Absolute Hut, the + Acetylene Corporation, London, (note) + Adare, Cape + Adelaide Island +.........University + 'Adelie Blizzard' +........Land; + the main base at; glaciation of; hurricanes of; Wilkes' + account of; the Hut; drifts; wireless installation at; + clothing for; Empire Day in; temperatures + Admiralty Range + Aerial Cove, depot + Aeroplane sledge. See Air-tractor sledge + Ainsworth, G F., + "Life on Macquarie Island;" "A Land of Storm and Mist," + "Through Another Year;" picked up by the 'Aurora', + the home journey; account of + Air-tractor sledge, the; + Aladdin's Cave; + Albatross + Alden, Cape, + Alexander I Island, + Alexandra, Queen + Allen and Hanbury, Messrs. + Alligator Nunatak. + 'Amakura', the + American expedition under Wilkes +........ Quadrant, the, accessibility; whaling industry in + Amundsen, Captain; sledging dogs presented by +..........dog + Anchor Rock + Anemobiagraph, the + Anemometers + Anemones, preservation of + Angas Mr. C. + "Annie Hill," + Antarctic theory of distribution of flora + Antarctica, history of discovery + 'Anthology of Australian Verse, An' + Anthony, Messrs., of Melbourne + 'Archibald Russell', the + Arnott Bros., Messrs. + Asia, Southern, wind velocities + 'Astrolabe', D'Urville's journey in the + Astronomer Royal, the + Astronomical Hut, the + "Atmospherics," + Auckland Islands + 'Aurora', the S.Y. plan and section; adaptation and fitting out; + from Macquarie Island to Adelie Land; the first ice; landing of + cargo at main base; new lands; food carried by the; return of the; + observations secured on the; deep-sea soundings; at Macquarie Island; + arrival at Port Lyttleton; at Melbourne; second deep-sea cruise; + departure from Hobart, Christmas; visit to the main base, Adelie Land; + reception by Wild; relief of Wild's party; arrival in Hobart; papers + brought by the; stores laid at Caroline Cove; visits to Macquarie + Island; at Dunedin; leaves Hobart on Southern trip to bring back the + two parties; wireless communication with; the Homeward Cruise; list + of ship's officers +.........Peak + Auroral phenomena + Australasian Association for Advancement of Science, + Australian ensign hoisted + Avalanche Rocks + Avalanches,~ + Azimuth Hill; + memorial cross on + + Bacteriology, work of the expedition, + Bage, R., at the main base; work at the hut; the tide-gauge; + transit house; food experiences; search for the dogs; + with the Southern Sledging Party; return to the hut; + on building a tent; snow-blindness; return to Aladdin's Cave; + note left by, at Cathedral Grotto; return from the south; + visit to the 'Aurora'; the relief expedition; winter work; + wireless work; magnetograph records; the home journey; + account of + Baldwin, Mr. + Baldwin-Spencer, Professor + Balleny Islands + John + Bang, C. A. (note) + Baracchi, Mr. P. + Barometer, movements of the + "Barrier," the, at the Winter Quarters + "Barrier-formations," + Barron, Lady +........Sir Harry + Barr-Smith, Mount +......Mr. Robert + Basilisk, dog + Bass Strait + Bates, Mr. D. C.; request for weather reports + Batger, Messrs. + Bauer, Dr. L. A. + Mr., Sealer at Macquarie Island + Baynes Bros., Messrs. + + "Beaufort scale" of wind-pressure + Belgian Antarctic expedition + Bellingshausen, expedition of 1821 + "Benzine Hut," + Bergschrund + Betli, dog + Bickerton, F. H., at main base; work at the hut; erection of the + wireless installation; food experiences; "bus driver"; + the air-tractor sledge; the Western sledging expedition; + on tent pitching; his birthday; the relief party; winter work + at the hut; wireless work; dredge constructed by; the home journey; + account of + Biology, work of the expedition + Bird & Coy, Messrs. + Birds, Antarctic, weight in relation to wing areas + Birthday Camp + Biscoe Island +........John, work + Bishop and Clerk, islet + Black Sunday + Blair, J. H., Chief Officer on the 'Aurora' + Blake, Cape +...... L R., work on Macquarie Island; visit to Sandy Bay; + accident to; visits to Lusitania Bay; photographs taken by + visits to the 'Aurora'; specimens obtained; sheepkilling; + the home journey; account of + Blizzard, puppy +.........the + 'Blizzard, The', poem + Blood-pressure, observations by McLean, + "Blue Billys," + "Board-sliding," + Bollons, Captain + Borchgrevinck + Borda, Cape + Border (Rabbit) Preserving Coy. + Bovril Coy., the + Brand & Coy., Messrs. + Bridge-playing at Western Base + Bristow, Captain + British Antarctic expedition + British Expedition + British Meteorological Office + "Brothers (The)," + Brown, Mr. John + Brown & Polson, Messrs. + Bruce, Dr. W. S. +........Rise + Bruni Island + Bryant & May, Messrs. + Buchanan, Mr. J. Y.; +..........S. Y. + Buckley, Mr. G. + Budd Land; + Buenos Ayres + Bull, H. J. + Bullivant, Messrs. + Burberry, the + Burroughs & Wellcome, Messrs. + Buzzacott, Messrs. + + Cadbury, Messrs. + Camp Cove + Campbell & Sons, Messrs. + Camping + "Cannonading," + Canterbury Museum, Christchurch + Cape Town + Carbohydrates, definition of the term (note) + Cardiff to Hobart, the journey + Carnegie Institute + Carnley Harbour + Caroline Cove, Macquarie Island + Carr, Cape + Caruso, dog + Castor, dog + Cat, wild + Catch Me Cave + Cathedral Grotto, the + 'Challenger' expedition + Charcot, Jean +.........Land + Chetwynd, Captain + Chocolate as barter + Chree, Dr. C., + Christchurch, New Zealand +...........Magnetic Observatory + 'Christmas Carol, A' +...........Day, Dr. Mawson's; with the Southern Sledging Party; + Madigan's account; with Bickerton's party; at Hobart; + with Wild's party; with S. E. Jones's party; + Ainsworth's account; on the homeward journey + Chun, Professor, of Leipsic + Close, J. H., at Main Base; at Aladdin's Cave; journey to the West; + and the Near Eastern Party; journey to Commonwealth Bay; + return from the East; back to Australia; account of + Clothing for the expedition + Clyde, wreck of the + Coal-supply, difficulties of + Coats Land + Cocoa, value of, + Colac Dairying Coy. + Colman, Messrs. + Colonel, dog + Colonial Sugar Refining Coy. + Commonwealth Bay +.............Fisheries Department +.............Meteorological Department +.............Weather Bureau, reports to + Cormorant. See Shag + Compass, variations of the; the bearing of the sun and the + magnetic needle compared + Conrad, Messrs. + Cook, Captain James + Copenhagen + Coronae, lunar + Correll, P. E., at Main Base; and the tide-gauge; + production of 'The Washerwoman's Secret; + the Eastern Coastal Party; at Horn Bluff, + the search party; return to Australia; + photographs taken by; the homeward journey; + account of +.........Nunatak + Cote Clarie + Crampons, use of + Crippen, dog + Crown Fuel Company, briquettes + + 'Daily Graphic' +.......'Mail' + Dallman, Eduard + Danish Geographical Society + Darwin, Charles + David Island +......Professor T. W. Edgeworth + Davis, Captain J. K., appointment; arrival at Hobart; work of stowage; + the journey to Macquarie Island; voyage in the Nimrod; + at Macquarie Island; events on board; narrative quoted; return + of the 'Aurora'; his decision regarding Wild's party; "The Ship's + Story"; mission to London; visits to Macquarie Island; + the homeward cruise; account of +.......Captain James, of Hobart, joins the 'Aurora'; efforts to recover + ship's lost chain; account of +.......Sea + "DeadBeat Gully," + Deakin, Hon. Alfred + Declination of the magnetic needle + Decouverte, Cape + Delay Point + Denison, Cape; +..........Mr. Hugh + Denman Glacier, the +........Lord, messages to Antarctica; Finance + Denny, Mr., visit to Macquarie + D'Entrecasteaux Channel + Depot Bay + Depots maintained by the New Zealand Government + Derwent River, the; + Dietetics + Disappointment Island + 'Discovery', voyage of the +...........Cape + Dixson Island + Mr. Hugh + Dodwell, Mr. P. + Dogs for the expedition, journey to Hobart; at the hut; harness for the; + food for the; at Aladdin's Cave; with the sledging parties; + the lost; used for food; presented to the 'Aurora' by Amundsen; + with the Western Party; pups; quarrels + Dolerite (note) + Dominion Meteorological Office + Doolette, Mr. G. P. + Dovers, G., member of Wild's party; depot-laying party formed; + surveying work; at Haswell Island; account of + 'Drake', H.M.S., wireless communication with + Drift gauge, a + Drift snow; abrasion effects of; electrical effects of + Drygalski Island (note) +..........Professor; + Ducks + Dun, W.S. + 'Dundonald', barque + Dunedin + D'Urville Sea; + + 'Eagle' Cave +........schooner, wreck + Earthquake shocks at Macquarie Island + Eastern Barrier +........Coastal Party, formation; account of, by Madigan; + instruments cached by + Eclipse, lunar, + Eitel, Mr. C. C. + Elder, Mr. +.......Mount + 'Eliza Scott', the + Empire Day, at the Western Base; on Adelie Land + 'Encyclopaedia Britannica', use of + 'Endeavour', the + Enderby Island +........Land + Equinox, effects of the + Equipment of the expedition + Erebus Cove + "Erratics," + Esperance, Port + Esquimaux, dogs of the; method with snow-blindness, + Euphausia + Evans, Commander + Evensen, work of + + Farr, Dr. C. C. + Fallieres Land + 'Fantome', H.M.S. + Far-Eastern Party, the; the return of + Farrah, Messrs. + Fats, definition of term, (note) + "Feather Bed" terrace + Fiala, quoted + Figure of Eight Island + Filchner, Wilhelm + Finance of the expedition + Finnesko footwear + Fisher, Hon. Andrew, +........wireless message to + Fishing + Fix, dog + Flag depot + Flagstaff Point, Carnley Harbour + Flemington Meat Preserving Coy. + Fletcher, F. D. + Flora, Antarctic, theories concerning + 'Flying Fish', the +........Fox, working of the + Flynn, Professor T. T. + Foehn effect + Food, for sledging journey, dietetics; rations; items; + table of supplies + Fram, dog +......voyage of the + Franklin, dog + Freshfield, Cape + Fuller, Messrs. + Fusilier, dog + + Gadget, dog + Gamage, Messrs (note) + 'Gauss', expedition of the + Gaussberg + Geographical results of the expedition + Geological work of the expedition + George, dog +........V, King, wireless message to, + Georgia, South; + Gerlache, Adrien de +..........Cape + German Scientific Expedition; expedition of 1902, see Gauss + Gillies, F., chief engineer of the 'Aurora' +.........Nunataks + Ginger, dog +......Bitch, dog, + Glacier, the continental, + Glacier-ice, structural composition + Glacier-tongues + Glaciology, work of the expedition + Glaxo + Gloves + Goggles for snow-blindness + Golf at Western Base + Gracht, Mr. Van Waterschoot van der + 'Grafton', wreck of the + Graham's Land + Gramophone Coy., London, (note) + Grampuses + Grandmother, dog + Gray, Cape +......P., second officer 'Aurora' + Great Australian Bight +.....Britain, Antarctic Expeditions +.....Ross Barrier; + Greely expedition of 1882 + Green Valley + Greenland, dogs from +..........pup + Greenwich Observatory + Griffiths Brothers, Messrs. + "Grottoes (The)," the hut at the Western Base, building; return + of the sledging party; entrance and tunnels; the igloo; + clearing the tunnels; return of the Western depot party; + preparations for the Eastern summer journey; return of Wild; + distances from; return of Jones's party; the flagstaff + Guano deposits + Gulls, Dominican or black backed +.......skua + + Haines, Mr., taxidermist + Haldane, dog + Hall, Robert + Halligan, Mr. G. + Hamilton, H., life at Macquarie Island; visits to Sandy Bay; + biological work; reception of the 'Aurora'; + erection of the tide gauge; a dinghy for; visits to + Lusitania Bay; photographs by; home journey; account of +.........Mount + Hangar + Hannan, W. H., at Main Base; work at the hut; wireless work; + the drift gauge; as magnetician; working of the air-tractor + sledge; the wireless at Winter Quarters; return to Australia; + account of + Harbour Board, Hobart + Harness, sledging, + Harrisson, C. T.; member of Wild's party; visit to the capsized berg, + account; Hippo depot; meteorological work at The Grottoes; + included in the Eastern summer journey; winch contrived by; + account + Hartley, Messrs. + Hasselborough Bay +..............Captain + Haswell Island +............Professor W. A. + Hedley, Mr. C. + Heinz, Messrs. + Helen Glacier + Henderson, Professor G. C.. + Henderson Island + Hens, Cape + 'Hinemoa', rescue by + 'Hints to Travellers' + Hippo Nunatak + Hoadley, C. A., member Wild's party; party to lay depot formed; + main western journey starting November; geological work; + at Haswell Island; account + Hobart + Hodgeman, A. J., at Main Base; work at hut; Near Eastern Party; + the cairn; return to the hut; journey of the Near Eastern + Party; trip to Aladdin's Cave; on tent-pitching; investigation + of snow ramp; the relief party; winter work at the hut; + journey to Mount Murchison; the home journey; map of Mackellar + Islets; account of + Holliman, Captain, + Holman, Hon., W. A. + Hoosh + Hordern, Mr. Samuel + Horlick, Messrs. + Horn Bluff + "Horn Bluff," by C. T. Madigan + Horn, Mr. W. A. + Hoyle, pup + Hugon, Messrs. + Hunt, Mount +......Mr. H. A. + Hunter, Cape +........J. G., at Main Base; biological work; parasitology; + sledging; production of 'The Washerwoman's Secret'; + the Southern Supporting Party; expansion of the cave; + return from the south; return to Australia; arrival + with the 'Aurora'; fishing;the homeward journey; + account of + " Huntoylette," + Hurley, J. F., Main Base; camera work; observations; rescue of the dogs; + production of 'The Washerwoman's Secret; the Southern + Party; the cairn;pitching tent; "Lot's Wife"; + the 'Christmas Carol'; snow-blindness; return from the + south; arrival with the 'Aurora'; sledging + Hurricane-walking + Hut, the Main Base, temperature; tunnels; the nightwatchman's duty +......Point, McMurdo Sound + Hutchinson, sealer of Macquarie Island + + Ice, Arctic and Antarctic compared; the first; pack-ice; bergs; + structural composition + "Ice floods," + "Ice islands," + Ice-shafts, digging of + "Icing-ship," + 'Illustrated London News' + Insect hunting + + Jack, dog + Jackson, Port + Jacob & Coy., Messrs. + Jaeger fleece + Japanese Antarctic expedition + Jappy, dog + Jeffreys Deep + Jeffryes, S. N., wireless operator + 'Jessie Nichol', wreck + John Bull, dog + Johnson, dog + Joinville Island + Jones, Dr. S. E., autopsy on the dogs; member of Wild's party; party + formed to lay a depot on September; Wild's instructions + to; main western journey starting November; "Linking + up with Kaiser Wilhelm Land," account by; discovery + of Antarctic petrels; view of Drygalski Island; account + of; medical report for Western Base +........Bros., Messrs. + Journalists' Association + Joyce, Mr. E., delivery of the dogs; + Judge and Clerk, islet of; soundings + Junction Corner + + Kaiser Wilhelm I Land, linking up with, account by Dr. S. E. Jones + Kangaroo Island + Keiller, Messrs. James & Son + Kelp + Kembla, Port + Kemp, work of + Kennedy, [A. L.] member of Wild's party; attempted trip with Wild for + the minimum thermometer; Eastern summer journey; blocked on + the ice-shelf with Wild; observations; account of + Kerguelen Island + Kidston, Mr. E. + King Edward V Land +.....George V Land, naming of; map + King' Birthday, at Western Base +................Island + Kinsey, Mr. J. J. + Kite, work with + Knibbs, G. H. + Knox Land + Kristensen, Leonard + + Lake-ice + Lamp, a non-magnetic + Lampwick, uses of + Larson, C. A. + Laseron, C. F., Main Base; biological work; collection of petrel + skin; at Aladdin's Cave; production of The 'Washerwoman's + Secret'; the Southern Supporting Party; recording + Webb's observations; expansion of the Cave; journey + to Commonwealth Bay December 9; collection of eggs + and birds; return from the east; back to Australia; + account of + Lassie, dog + Lever Brothers, Messrs. + Lewis, Sir Elliott + Lithgrow Colleries + "Lot's Wife," + Loubet Land + Louis Phillippe Land + Lucas Sounding-machine + Lucas-Tooth, Sir Robert + Ludowici, Messrs. (note) + Lusitania Bay; +..........the, sealing boat + Lyttleton, Port, arrival of the 'Aurora' + + "M. H. S. Championship, " the start + Mac, dog + McClintock, expedition of 1850; rations + Mackay, Dr. F. A. + Mackellar Islet + Mackellar Library +..........the Hon.C.D. + McLean, Dr. A. L., autopsy on the dogs; at Main Base; electrical + observations; lines on 'The Blizzard'; erection of + the wireless; observations regarding seals; at + Aladdin's Cave; blood-pressure, observations; + at Cathedral Grotto; expedition of the Eastern Coastal + Party; snow-blindness; at Horn Bluff; photographs taken + by; return of; the relief expedition; winter work at + the Hut; founding of 'The Adelie Blizzard'; on illness + of Jeffryes; a wind episode; dredging operations; + biological specimen; the home journey; account; + medical report for Main Base + McMurdo Sound, wind velocities, chart; the Scott expedition + Macquarie Island, the base at; "Life on Macquarie Island," by G. F. + Ainsworth; "A Land of Storm and Mist," by G. F. Ainsworth; + "Through Another Year," by G. F. Ainsworth; + Macquarie Island Party, list of + Madigan, C. T., at Main Base; meteorological observations; at the Hut; + electrical observation; spring exploits; journey to the + west, September 1912; sledging; the Eastern Coastal Party; + return to the Hut; his account of the expedition of the + Eastern Coastal Party; "Horn Bluff and Penguin Point" by; + depot of; visit to the 'Aurora'; care of the dogs; winter + work at the Hut; journey to Mount Murchison; the home + journey; account +...........Nunatak + Magnetic Flat, the +.........meridian +.........needle, use for steering purposes +.........Pole, North +.........Pole, South, observations regarding the; Bage's search for; + chart + Magnetograph House; work of the magnetician + Magnetometer, the + Maiden, Mr. J. H. + Main Base, Adelie Land, visit of the 'Aurora'; wireless installation at +...........Base Party, list of; return of members to Australia + Maori cabbage (Stilbocarpa polaris) +......hens, see Wekas + Martelli, Mr., assistant harbourmaster, Hobart + Mary, dog +......Queen, message to Antarctica + Mason Coy., Messrs. + Masson Island +.......Professor, efforts to raise funds, + Mawson, Dr., plans for the expedition; party of + Medical equipment for the expedition +........reports + Melba, Mme. + Melbourne, arrival of the 'Aurora'; wireless calls; time signals from +...........Observatory + Memorial cross on Azimuth Hill + Men, choice of, for a polar campaign + Mertz, Dr. Xavier, appointment; at Hobart, care of the dogs; at Main + Base; meteorological observations; skiing; cooking; + at Aladdin's Cave; journey to the southeast, September 11; + the Far Eastern Party; the return journey; illness and + death; Bage's parting from; meeting with the Eastward + Coastal Party; Captain Davis's inquiries after; message + to his relatives; account of +........Glacier +........Glacier-tongue + Meteorology, work of the expedition; meteorological chart for April + 1913 + Meteorite found + Midsummer Day, temperature + Midwinter Day at Western Base + Mikkel, dog + Mill, Dr. H. R., "Siege of the South Pole," +.........Rise + Minerals of Adelie Land + Mitts + Mollymawk rookery + Monaco, Prince of + Monagasque trawl + Monkey, dog + Moore, T. E. L. + 'Morning Herald', Sydney + Morton, Messrs. C. & E. + Motte, C. P de la + Moyes, M. H., member of Wild's party; account of + Moraine, terminal, Adelie Land + 'Morning', the, British expedition, + Murchison, Mount; +...........Mr. Roderick + Murphy, H. D., at Main Base; erection of the wireless installation; + at Aladdin's Cave; journey to the southeast September 11; + observations; formation of the Southern Supporting Party; + return to the Hut; composition of party at Cathedral + Grotto; return from the south; visit to the 'Aurora'; + return to Australia; account of + Murphy, H. D. (senior) + Murray, G. J. H. + Mutton birds + + Nansen, expedition in the 'Fram'; 'Farthest North'; use of the primus + stove, +........dog + Nares, Captain G. S. + National Museum, Melbourne +.........Physical Laboratory, London + Near Eastern Party + Neave, Messrs. + Negretti & Zambra, Messrs. + Nestle, Messrs. + Neve + New Zealand, depots maintained by; flora of, theories regarding + Newnes, Sir George + Nightbirds + 'Nimrod', the, voyages; + Ninnis Glacier +.......Lieut. B. E. S., appointment; care of the dogs; at the Main Base; + clothing artifices; spring exploits; journey + to the southeast, September 11; the Far Eastern + Party; his death in the crevasse; Bage's parting + from; flag planted by; Captain Davis's inquiries + after; message to his relatives; account of + "Nodules (The)," + Nordensyold, Otto + North, Cape +.......East Bay; +.......End +.......Head + Northcliffe Glacier + North's Land + Notothenia + "Nuggets (The)" + + Oates Land + Observation Point + Oceanography, results of expedition + Oil, seal, methods of the sealers + Organ Pipe Cliffs + + Pack-ice; + Palmer Archipelago +.......Nathaniel + Parisitology + Parsons, Messrs. + Parties for sledging, arrangement + Patria Biscuit Fabriek + Partridge & Twiss, Messrs. + Pavlova, dog + 'Peacock', the; + Peary, dog + Pemmican + Penguin Hill + "Penguin Point," by C. T. Madigan + Penguin rookeries; + Penguins +........Adelie +........an Albino Penguin +........Emperor +........Gentoo +........King +........Royal +........Victoria, + Pennant Hills + 'Perseverance', the + Peter I Island + Petrel Rookeries + Petrels +........Antaretic +........Giant +........Lesson's +........Silver-grey or Southern Fulmar +........Snow +........Wilson + Petrol, amount carried + Pianoforte Berg + "Piecrust" + Pigeons, Cape + Piper, Mr. + Plasmon + Pollock, Professor J. A. + 'Porpoise', the + Posadowsky Bay + Possession Nunataks + Primmer, Mr. + Primus heater, the + Prince Luitpold Land + Prion Banksii + Proteins, value of + "Puffometer," the + Punch + + Quarantine Station, Hobart + Queen Mary Land + Queen's Wharf, Hobart + + Rabbits + 'Rachel Cohen', the + Ramornie Meat Coy. + Rations, daily polar; for the Far Eastern Party; for the sledge journey + from the Western Base + Rats + Reid, Sir George, +......Glacier + Robinson, Lionel +......Bay +......anemometer, the + "Rock Flour," + Rocks, effect of wind and rain on +.......igneous + Rose Island +.....Messrs. + Ross Barrier +......dog +......Expedition +......Port +......Sea, the + Royal Company Island +......Geographical Society. + Royds, Cape + Russian Antarctic Expeditions + + Sabrina Land + 'Sabrina', the + Sails, value of + St. Elmo's fire + St. Vincent's Gulf + Sames & Coy. + Sandell, C. A., Wireless work at Macquarie Island; cooking; lantern + made by; visit to the 'Aurora'; erection of the + tide-gauge; sheepkilling; as barber; an accident to; + telephone installed by; lamp made by; the home journey; + account of + Sandow, dog +........Mr. Eugene + Sandy Bay, Hobart +...........Enderby Island +...........Macquarie Island + "Sarcophagus," the + Sastrugi + Sawyer, A. J., wireless operator at Macquarie Island; visits to the + 'Aurora'; erection of the tide-gauge; leaves Macquarie + Island; visit to the 'Tutanekai; account of + Saxton & Binns, Messrs. + Scarfe, Mr. + Scientific equipment for the expedition, +...........work of the expedition + 'Scotia', the + Scott, Captain, work of; voyage of the 'Discovery; voyage in the + 'Terra Nova'; rations allowed by; stay in Antarctica; + at McMurdo Sound; the disaster to; on Macquarie Island, +........Islands +........Lady +........the dog + Scott Expedition Staff + Scottish Antarctic Expedition + Sea, temperature, effect of snow on + Sea bears + Sea-elephants; rookeries of the + Seager, Messrs. + Sea-ice + Sea-leopards + Sealers of Macquarie Island; methods of the + Sea-lions + Seals +......Crabeater +......Fur +......Hair +......Ross +......Weddell + Sewing-machine, Wild's need of a + Shack, the + Shackleton Expedition +...........Ice-Shelf, the; establishment of the Western Base on; + winter and spring on; Western Party blocked on, + Wild's narrative; the 'Aurora' at +...........the dog + Shags + Shaw, Dr. W. N. + Shelf-ice + Shell Brand benzine and Shell kerosene + Shoe Island + " Shuteye," practice of + Signatures of members of land parties + Simpson, Mr. + Skeats, Professor E., examination of the meteorite + Skey, Mr. H. F. + Skiing + Sledge, the air-tractor + Sledging; preparation of equipment; wood for sledges; harness for; + a load; camping + Smith & Wellstood, Messrs. +.......William, work of + Snow, temperatures + Snow-blindness + Snow drift, electrical effects + Snow gauges +.....Hill Island + Soundings, Lucas automatic sounding machine + South Australian Museum +......Orkney Islands +......Shetland Islands + Southern Cross Depot, declination of the needle at +.........Ocean +.........Party; instruments cached by +.........Supporting Party, + 'Sphere', the + Spratt, Messrs., care of the dogs + Steel Trucks Ltd. + Stewart Island (New Zealand) + Stillwell, F. L., at Main Base; geological researches; map of Winter + Quarters; records; production of 'The Washerwoman's + Secret'; finding an albino penguin; the Near Eastern + Party; his sledge; pitching tent; journey of the Near + Eastern Party; the search party; return to Australia; + account of +...........Island + Stirling, Professor + Storm Bay + Strathcona, Lord +............Mount + Sun, the midnight; display of rings and arcs + Suva, wireless station + Swallow & Ariell, Messrs. + Sweep, dog + Swiss Confederation Day +.......the dog + Switzerland, the dog. + Sydney, Wilkes's expedition started from; Cathedral of; wood from; + the harbour; wireless communication with +........Meat Preserving Coy. + 'Sydney Morning Herald', donation + + Tasman Sea + Tasmania, hospitality of; soundings + Taylor, Mr. Allen + "Te Sol," + Tea + Temperature, Foehn effect; in Adelie Land + Tent-pitching; Bickerton on + 'Terebus and Error in Eruption' + Termination Ice Tongue +............Land + Terns + 'Terra Nova', Scott's voyage + Terrestrial magnetism, work of the expedition + "The Steps" + Theodolite, use of the + Tich, dog + Tide-gauge, Bage's; use on Macquarie Island + Tides, work of the expedition + Tidswell, Dr. + Tiger, dog + Tooth, Sir R. Lucas +.......Lady Helen—see Helen Glacier + 'Toroa', s.s. + Totten's Land + Toucher, N. C. + Transit House + Trawl, Monagasque + Trawling, experiences of the 'Aurora' + Tussock grass + 'Tutanekai', the, relief of Macquarie Island + + 'Ulimaroa', s.s., the + Umbrella aerial, use of the + Union Jack, hoisting the + University College, Christchurch + Urville, Dumont D', expedition under +.........the dog + + 'Valdivia' expedition + "Veranda Club" + Verran, Hon. J. + Vickers & Coy., Messrs. + Victoria Land + Vincennes, the + + Waite, Mr. E. R. + 'Washerwoman's Secret, The' + "Watersky," + Watkins, Lieut., aviator + Watson, A. D., at the Western Base; attempted trip with Wild for the + minimum thermometer; preparation for the Eastern summer + journey; blocked on the ice-shelf with Wild; fall into + a crevasse +..........Bluff + Watt, Hon. W. + Way Archipelago +..............map +......Sir Samuel + Weather, the, as a conversational subject + Webb, E. N., at Main Base; care of the dogs; work at the Magnetograph + House; photo-work; magnetic ice-cave of; his first camp; + formation of the Southern Sledging Party; observations of + the needle; use of the theodolite; building a break-wind; + the toasts on Christmas Day; sighting Aladdin's Cave; + return from the south; return to Australia; account of + Weddell, James, work +.........Sea + Wekas + Wellington, Mount +.............wireless communication with + Welsh, Professor + Western Base, the party at; winter and spring at the; establishment and + adventures by F. Wild; the geological shaft; "The Glacier + Tongue"; Wild's party blocked on the Ice Shelf; linking + up with Kaiser Wilhelm II Land, account by Dr. S. E. Jones; + medical reports from + West Point + Western Sledging Party + 'Westralia', s.s., + Whalebirds + Whales + Whetter, Dr. L. A., at Main Base; the "Toggle King"; journey to the west; + the Western Party; meteorological work; preparations for + the air-tractor sledge trip; his birthday; on tent + pitching; investigations of a snow ramp; return; return + to Australia; account of + "Whirlies," + Wild, Frank, the work at Hobart; working of the "flyingfox"; incidents + on board; leader of the Western Base; the winter station on + the ice shelf; rations for the expedition; arrangements with + the 'Aurora'; return to Aladdin's Cave; his party at Western + Base; relief of; reception of the 'Aurora'; winter and spring; + land mapped out by; blocked on the ice shelf, narrative + Wilkes, discoveries of; charts; Knox Land, + Wilkes's Land + Willesden-drill, tents + Williamstown, Victoria + Wind, velocities + Winds, Bay of + Winsor & Newton, Messrs. + Winter quarters, Adelie Land +.............Stillwell's map + Wireless Hill, establishment of the station; +.........installation range, in the Antarctic; report of Captain Davis; + messages received by Hannam on the 'Aurora'; messages from, + and to, Adelie Land; effect of ice on intensity of waves; + work of the expedition; telefunken apparatus + Worms, parasitical, in fish + + 'Zelee', the + Zip, the dog + Zoological investigations +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><a name="linkillust" id="linkillust"></a> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + ILLUSTRATIONS + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <img alt="sunarcs (2K)" src="images/sunarcs.gif" height="318" + width="254" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt1 (22K)" src="images/txt1.gif" + height="775" width="616" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt2 (6K)" + src="images/txt2.gif" height="318" width="433" /> <br /> <br /> <img + alt="txt3 (21K)" src="images/txt3.gif" height="844" width="640" /> <br /> + <br /> <img alt="txt4 (18K)" src="images/txt4.gif" height="480" width="681" /> + <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt5 (18K)" src="images/txt5.gif" height="486" + width="688" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt6 (13K)" src="images/txt6.gif" + height="474" width="703" /> <br /><br /> <img alt="txt7 (14K)" + src="images/txt7.gif" height="498" width="668" /> <br /><br /> <img + alt="txt8 (14K)" src="images/txt8.gif" height="501" width="729" /> <br /><br /> + <img alt="txt9 (9K)" src="images/txt9.gif" height="303" width="751" /> + <br /><br /> <img alt="txt10 (18K)" src="images/txt10.gif" height="518" + width="640" /> <br /><br /> <img alt="txt11 (29K)" src="images/txt11.gif" + height="558" width="695" /> <br /><br /> <img alt="txt12 (11K)" + src="images/txt12.gif" height="367" width="640" /> <br /><br /> <img + alt="txt13 (14K)" src="images/txt13.gif" height="458" width="640" /> <br /><br /> + <img alt="txt14 (15K)" src="images/txt14.gif" height="529" width="640" /> + <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt15 (9K)" src="images/txt15.gif" height="726" + width="478" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt16 (12K)" src="images/txt16.gif" + height="535" width="469" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt17 (22K)" + src="images/txt17.gif" height="815" width="500" /> <br /> <br /> <img + alt="txt18 (5K)" src="images/txt18.gif" height="404" width="639" /> <br /> + <br /> <img alt="txt19 (10K)" src="images/txt19.gif" height="408" + width="626" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt20 (6K)" src="images/txt20.gif" + height="382" width="643" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt21 (18K)" + src="images/txt21.gif" height="764" width="480" /> <br /> <br /> <img + alt="txt22 (12K)" src="images/txt22.gif" height="742" width="448" /> <br /> + <br /> <img alt="txt23 (19K)" src="images/txt23.gif" height="800" + width="504" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt24 (3K)" src="images/txt24.gif" + height="193" width="474" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt25 (4K)" + src="images/txt25.gif" height="359" width="443" /> <br /> <br /> <img + alt="txt26 (20K)" src="images/txt26.gif" height="742" width="518" /> <br /> + <br /> <img alt="txt27 (4K)" src="images/txt27.gif" height="222" width="461" /> + <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt28 (9K)" src="images/txt28.gif" height="722" + width="524" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt29 (5K)" src="images/txt29.gif" + height="218" width="460" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt30 (17K)" + src="images/txt30.gif" height="815" width="640" /> <br /> <br /> <img + alt="txt31 (11K)" src="images/txt31.gif" height="470" width="640" /> <br /> + <br /> <img alt="txt32 (11K)" src="images/txt32.gif" height="437" + width="659" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt33 (20K)" src="images/txt33.gif" + height="650" width="640" /> <br /> <br /> <img alt="txt34 (19K)" + src="images/txt34.gif" height="605" width="632" /> <br /> <br /> <img + alt="txt35 (20K)" src="images/txt35.gif" height="608" width="629" /> <br /> + <br /> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Home of the Blizzard, by Douglas Mawson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HOME OF THE BLIZZARD *** + +***** This file should be named 6137-h.htm or 6137-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/3/6137/ + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling, and David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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