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diff --git a/old/61346-0.txt b/old/61346-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index f957518..0000000 --- a/old/61346-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16646 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Boy Travellers in Mexico, by Thomas W. Knox - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Boy Travellers in Mexico -Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Northern and Central Mexico, Campeachey, and Yucatan - -Author: Thomas W. Knox - -Release Date: February 9, 2020 [eBook #61346] -[Most recently updated: October 30, 2021] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Annie R. McGuire - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN MEXICO *** - - - - -[Illustration: Book Cover] - - - - -[Illustration: MAP SHOWING STATES, BOUNDARIES, AND RAILWAYS OF MEXICO.] - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN - -MEXICO - -ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO -NORTHERN AND CENTRAL MEXICO, CAMPEACHEY, AND YUCATAN, WITH A -DESCRIPTION OF THE REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA -AND OF THE NICARAGUA CANAL - -BY - -THOMAS W. KNOX - -AUTHOR OF -"THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST" "IN SOUTH AMERICA" "IN RUSSIA" -"ON THE CONGO" AND "IN AUSTRALASIA" "THE YOUNG NIMRODS" -"THE VOYAGE OF THE 'VIVIAN'" ETC. - -Illustrated - -NEW YORK -HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE -1890 - - - - -BY THOMAS W. KNOX. - - * * * * * - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Five Volumes. Copiously Illustrated. -8vo, Cloth, $3.00 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume -complete in itself. - - I. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO JAPAN AND CHINA. - II. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO SIAM AND JAVA. With - Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Malay - Archipelago. - III. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO CEYLON AND INDIA. With - Descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine Islands, and Burmah. - IV. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO EGYPT AND PALESTINE. - V. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA. Adventures of Two Youths in a -Journey through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentine -Republic, and Chili; with Descriptions of Patagonia and Tierra del -Fuego, and Voyages upon the Amazon and La Plata Rivers. Copiously -Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Adventures of Two Youths in a -Journey in European and Asiatic Russia, with Accounts of a Tour across -Siberia, Voyages on the Amoor, Volga, and other Rivers, a Visit to -Central Asia, Travels among the Exiles, and a Historical Sketch of the -Empire from its Foundation to the Present Time. Copiously Illustrated. -8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey -with Henry M. Stanley "Through the Dark Continent." Copiously -Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN AUSTRALASIA. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey -to the Sandwich, Marquesas, Society, Samoan, and Feejee Islands, and -through the Colonies of New Zealand, New South Wales, Queensland, -Victoria, Tasmania, and South Australia. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, -Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN MEXICO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to -Northern and Central Mexico, Campeachey, and Yucatan, with a Description -of the Republics of Central America, and of the Nicaragua Canal. -Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE VOYAGE OF THE "VIVIAN" TO THE NORTH POLE AND BEYOND. Adventures of -Two Youths in the Open Polar Sea. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, -$2.50. - -HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. Two Volumes. Copiously Illustrated. -8vo, Cloth, $2.50 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume -complete in itself. - - I. THE YOUNG NIMRODS IN NORTH AMERICA. - II. THE YOUNG NIMRODS AROUND THE WORLD. - - * * * * * - -PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK. - -_Any of the above volumes sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of -the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._ - - * * * * * - -Copyright, 1889, by HARPER & BROTHERS.--_All rights reserved._ - - - - -PREFACE. - - -Until within the past few years, Mexico was a country not easily reached -from the principal cities of the United States, and our relations with -it were by no means intimate. Since the completion of the railway from -the frontier of Texas to the heart of the most northerly of the -Spanish-American republics, there has been a rapid development of -commercial and social relations between Mexico and the United States, -and the tide of travel from one country to the other is steadily -increasing year by year. These circumstances have led the author of "The -Boy Travellers" to believe that his young friends everywhere would -welcome a book describing the land of the Aztecs, its history and -resources, the manners and customs of its people, and the many curious -things to be seen, and adventures passed through, in a journey from one -end of that country to the other. - -In this belief he sought the aid of his and their friends, Frank and -Fred, immediately after their return from Australasia. Ever ready to be -of service, the youths assented to his request to make a tour of the -Mexican republic, in company with their guide and mentor, Doctor -Bronson, and the result of their journey is set forth in the following -pages. It is confidently hoped that the narrative will be found in every -particular fully equal to any of its predecessors in the series to which -it belongs. - -The methods on which the Boy Travellers have hitherto performed their -work have been adhered to in the present volume. In addition to his -personal acquaintance with Mexico and travels in that country, the -author has drawn upon the observations of those who have preceded and -followed him there. He has consulted books of history, travel, and -statistics in great number, has sought the best and most accurate maps, -and while his work was in progress he consulted many persons familiar -with Mexico, and was in frequent correspondence with gentlemen now -residing there. He has sought to bring the social, political, and -commercial history of the country down to the latest date, and to -present a truthful picture of the present status of our sister -republic. The result of his efforts he submits herewith to the judgment -of his readers. - -Many of the works that have been consulted are named in the text, but it -has not been convenient to refer to all. Among those to which the author -is indebted may be mentioned the following: Bishop's "Old Mexico and her -Lost Provinces," Griffin's "Mexico of To-day," Haven's "Our Next-door -Neighbor," Charnay's "Ancient Cities of the New World," Squier's -"Nicaragua" and "Central America," Wells's "Honduras," Stephens's -"Travels in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan," Baldwin's "Ancient -America," Wilson's "Mexico and its Religions," Abbott's "Hernando -Cortez," Prescott's "Conquest of Mexico," Ober's "Travels in Mexico," -Geiger's "Peep at Mexico," Gooch's "Face to Face with the Mexicans," -Chevalier's "Mexique Ancien et Moderne," and the hand-books of Janvier, -Conkling, and Hamilton. - -As in the other "Boy Traveller" volumes, the author is indebted to the -liberality of his publishers, Messrs. Harper & Brothers, for the use of -engravings that have appeared in previous publications relative to -Mexico and Central America, in addition to those specially prepared for -this book. As a result of their generosity, he has been enabled to add -greatly to the interest of the work, particularly to the younger portion -of his readers, for whom illustrations always have an especial charm. - - T. W. K. - NEW YORK, _June_, 1889. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.--PLANS FOR THE JOURNEY.--TO - MEXICO BY RAIL.--BAGGAGE, AND BOOKS ON THE COUNTRY.--BRUSHING - UP THEIR KNOWLEDGE OF SPANISH.--WESTWARD FROM NEW YORK.--A - HALT AT ST. LOUIS.--SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.--VISIT TO THE - ALAMO.--REMINISCENCES OF THE FALL OF THE ALAMO.--BATTLE OF - SAN JACINTO AND INDEPENDENCE OF TEXAS.--NOTES ON THE RAILWAYS - OF NORTHERN MEXICO.--OLD TEXAS AND MODERN - CHANGES.--"G. T. T."--PRESENT WEALTH OF THE STATE.--ARRIVAL - ON THE FRONTIER OF MEXICO. Page 1 - - CHAPTER II. - - HOTELS ON THE FRONTIER.--ACCOMMODATIONS AT LAREDO.--SMUGGLING - OVER THE BORDER.--LAREDO AS A RAILWAY CENTRE.--THE RIO GRANDE - AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--RIVERS BENEATH THE SANDS.--ENTERING - MEXICAN TERRITORY.--EXAMINATIONS AT THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.--MEXICAN - TARIFFS.--BRIBERY AMONG OFFICIALS.--LEAVING NUEVO LAREDO.--A - DREARY PLAIN.--FELLOW-PASSENGERS WITH OUR FRIENDS.--A MEXICAN - IRISHMAN.--PEOPLE AT THE STATIONS.--ADOBE HOUSES; HOW THEY ARE - MADE.--THE LAND OF MAÑANA.--POCO TIEMPO AND QUIEN - SABE.--LAMPASAS.--MESA DE LOS CARTUJANOS.--PRODUCTS OF NUEVO - LEON.--SADDLE AND MITRE MOUNTAINS.--MONTEREY. 15 - - CHAPTER III. - - THE AMERICAN INVASION OF TO-DAY.--MONTEREY AS A HEALTH RESORT; - ITS SITE AND SURROUNDINGS.--THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER PUBLIC - BUILDINGS.--CAPTURE OF MONTEREY BY GENERAL TAYLOR.--SHORT - HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR.--FROM CORPUS CHRISTI TO - MONTEREY.--THE ATTACK ON THE CITY.--CAPTURE OF THE FORTS AND - THE BISHOP'S PALACE.--FRANK RECITES A POEM.--LIEUT. U. S. - GRANT AND WHAT HE DID AT MONTEREY.--A STORY ABOUT JEFFERSON - DAVIS.--HOW JOHN PHENIX ESCAPED CASHIERING.--SIGHTS OF THE - CITY.--THE MARKET-PLACE AND WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--FRUITS, - BIRDS, POTTERY, ETC.--IN A MONTEREY HOUSE.--A PALATIAL - RESIDENCE. 31 - - CHAPTER IV. - - SOUTHWARD TO SALTILLO.--SANTA CATERINA.--REMARKABLE - CAVES.--SCENERY OF THE SIERRA MADRE.--WAY-SIDE ATTRACTIONS.--THE - CACTUS; ITS FLOWERS AND MANY VARIETIES.--SALTILLO.--THE - ALAMEDA.--MEXICAN CURRENCY.--THE BATTLE-FIELD OF BUENA VISTA.--BY - CARRIAGE AND SADDLE.--A NIGHT AT A HACIENDA.--MEXICAN - COOKERY.--TORTILLAS, PUCHERO, FRIJOLES, TAMALES, AND OTHER - EDIBLES.--HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR FROM MONTEREY TO BUENA - VISTA.--5000 AMERICANS DEFEAT 20,000 MEXICANS.--DESCRIPTION OF - THE FIELD.--COTTON FACTORY AT SALTILLO.--COTTON MANUFACTURES - IN MEXICO. 48 - - CHAPTER V. - - FROM SALTILLO TO JARAL.--A JOURNEY BY DILIGENCE.--PECULIARITIES - OF DILIGENCE TRAVEL.--BRIGANDAGE; HOW THE GOVERNMENT SUPPRESSED - IT.--ROBBERS TURNED INTO SOLDIERS.--STORIES OF BRIGANDS AND - THEIR WORK; THEIR TREATMENT OF PRISONERS.--A CASE OF - POLITENESS.--DINNER AT A WAY-SIDE INN.--CHILE CON - CARNE.--DESCRIPTION OF CHIHUAHUA.--THE SANTA EULALIA MINES; - ROMANTIC STORY OF THEIR DISCOVERY.--TORREON AND LERDO.--COTTON - IN TRANSIT.--STATISTICS OF COTTON IN MEXICO.--FRESNILLO.-- - CALERA.--A BAD BREAKFAST.--ARRIVAL AT ZACATECAS.--LODGED IN AN - OLD CONVENT. 66 - - CHAPTER VI. - - NAME, POPULATION, AND PECULIARITIES OF ZACATECAS.--THE - PILGRIMAGE CHAPEL.--A WEALTHY CATHEDRAL.--STREET SCENES.--MINES - OF ZACATECAS.--A DANGEROUS DESCENT.--THE PATIO PROCESS OF - REDUCING ORES.--TREADING ORE WITH MULES AND HORSES.--A SORRY - SIGHT.--THE MINERS; HOW THEY LIVE AND WORK.--STATISTICS OF - SILVER-MINING IN MEXICO.--ASTOUNDING CALCULATIONS.--FROM - ZACATECAS TO AGUAS CALIENTES.--FARM SCENES.--FARMING IN - MEXICO.--CONDITION OF LABORERS.--MEN AS BEASTS OF BURDEN.--AGUAS - CALIENTES.--A BEAUTIFUL CITY.--A PICTURESQUE POPULATION.--WOMEN - OF MEXICO. 85 - - CHAPTER VII. - - SOUTHWARD AGAIN.--CROSSING A BARRANCA.--BARRANCAS IN - MEXICO.--LAGOS AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--LEON, THE MANUFACTURING - CITY OF MEXICO.--SILAO.--ARRIVAL AT GUANAJUATO.--A SILVER - CITY.--THE VALENCIANO MINE.--AN UNHEALTHY PLACE.--BAD - DRAINAGE.--A SYSTEM OF RESERVOIRS.--THE CASTILLO DEL - GRENADITAS.--AN INDIAN'S ARMOR.--EXPERT THIEVES.--STEALING A - GRINDSTONE.--MARKET SCENES.--HEADS OF SHEEP AND GOATS.--SCHOOLS - AT GUANAJUATO.--EDUCATION IN MEXICO.--DOWN IN THE RAYAS - MINE.--SIGHTS UNDERGROUND.--AN INDIAN WATER-CARRIER.--HOW A SKIN - IS TAKEN WHOLE FROM A PIG.--THE REDUCTION HACIENDA.--MR. - PARKMAN'S MACHINE.--QUERETARO.--THE HERCULES AND OTHER - COTTON-MILLS. 102 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - AQUEDUCT AT QUERETARO.--THE RESULT OF A BANTER.--THE HILL OF - THE BELLS.--PLACE WHERE MAXIMILIAN WAS SHOT.--REVOLUTIONS IN - MEXICO.--FOREIGN INTERVENTION.--MAXIMILIAN BECOMES - EMPEROR.--THE "BLACK DECREE."--WITHDRAWAL OF FRENCH TROOPS - FROM MEXICO.--MAXIMILIAN'S DEFEAT, CAPTURE, AND DEATH.--HOW A - FRENCH NEWSPAPER CIRCUMVENTED THE LAWS.--PRONUNCIAMENTOS.-- - JUAREZ AS PRESIDENT.--THE ABRAHAM LINCOLN OF MEXICO.--A - WONDERFUL PROPHECY.--PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF JUAREZ.--RELIGION - IN MEXICO.--FORMER POWER OF THE CATHOLIC CHURCH.--THE LAWS OF - THE REFORM.--PROTESTANT CHURCHES AND PROTESTANT WORK.--MISSIONARY - MARTYRS.--MURDER OF REV. J. L. STEPHENS.--RELIGIOUS AFFAIRS AT - PRESENT. 116 - - CHAPTER IX. - - FROM QUERETARO TO THE CAPITAL.--PLAIN OF THE CAZADERO.-- - TULA.--THE GREAT SPANISH DRAINAGE-CUT.--DISASTROUS INUNDATIONS - OF MEXICO CITY.--A PUZZLE FOR ENGINEERS.--ARRIVAL AT THE - CAPITAL.--HOTEL LIFE.--RESTAURANTS AND THE MODE OF LIVING.-- - AMUSING STORIES OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT.--FONDAS AND FONDITAS.-- - MEN FOR CHAMBER-MAIDS.--ALMUERZO.--A MORNING STROLL ALONG THE - STREETS.--WOMEN ON THEIR WAY TO MASS.--THE MANTILLA.--SELLERS - OF SACRED THINGS.--DEALERS IN LOTTERY TICKETS.--LOTTERIES RUN - BY GOVERNMENT.--ATTENDING A DRAWING.--HOW THE AFFAIR WAS - CONDUCTED.--FLOWER-SELLERS. 132 - - CHAPTER X. - - THE CATHEDRAL OF MEXICO.--SITE OF THE AZTEC TEOCALLI.--HUMAN - SACRIFICES.--PANORAMA OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.--EXTENT AND - COST OF THE CATHEDRAL; CHAPELS AND ALTARS.--TOMB OF - ITURBIDE.--THE CAREER AND TRAGIC END OF ITURBIDE.--THE RICHEST - ALTAR IN THE WORLD.--GOLDEN CANDLESTICKS A MAN COULD NOT - LIFT.--THE AZTEC CALENDAR-STONE; ITS INTERESTING FEATURES; - INSCRIPTION ON THE STONE.--BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE AZTECS.--THE - TRIBE CALLED MEXICANS.--AZTEC LAWS AND CUSTOMS.--PREVALENCE OF - THE DEATH PENALTY.--AZTEC POSTING SYSTEM.--PICTURE-WRITING.-- - FLOWER-SHOW IN THE ZOCALO.--A FASHIONABLE ASSEMBLAGE.--WONDERFUL - WORK IN FEATHERS. 147 - - CHAPTER XI. - - LOST ARTS IN MEXICO.--GOLDSMITHS' WORK IN THE TIME OF - CORTEZ.--SILVER FILIGREE.--MODELLING IN WAX AND CLAY.--NATIVE - TASTE FOR MUSIC.--NATIONAL CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC.--MUSEUM - OF ANTIQUITIES.--THE SACRIFICIAL STONE.--SACRIFICES AMONG THE - ANCIENT MEXICANS.--GLADIATORIAL STONE.--A BRAVE SOLDIER.-- - OBSIDIAN KNIVES AND RAZORS.--AZTEC METALLURGY.--STATUE OF THE - GOD OF WAR.--SHIELD AND CLOAK OF MONTEZUMA.--AZTEC WARFARE AND - DOMESTIC LIFE.--RELICS OF HIDALGO AND MAXIMILIAN.--MAX'S STATE - COACH.--NATIONAL PALACE.--HALL OF THE AMBASSADORS.--MEXICAN - PAINTINGS.--THE MONTE DE PIEDAD.--AN EXTENSIVE PAWN-SHOP.-- - LOCKING UP MEN AS SECURITY.--FORMALITIES OF THE SALESROOM. 163 - - CHAPTER XII. - - MEXICAN POLITENESS.--FREE GIFTS OF HOUSES AND OTHER - PROPERTY.--AWKWARD MISTAKES.--AN ENGLISHWOMAN'S DILEMMA, AND - HOW SHE GOT OUT OF IT.--UNCLE FREDDY AND THE GOVERNOR OF - ACAPULCO.--THE GREAT MARKET; SIGHTS AND SCENES THERE.--ON THE - CANAL.--EXTENSIVE LOCAL COMMERCE.--THE CHINAMPAS, OR FLOATING - GARDENS.--AN EXCURSION ON THE LAKES.--SANTA ANITA, A PLACE OF - RECREATION.--EXPERTS IN DIVING.--THE HILL OF ESTRELLA.--THE - FESTIVAL OF FIRE; PRESCOTT'S DESCRIPTION OF THE FEARFUL - CEREMONY.--FISHING IN THE LAKES.--THE AXOLOTL.--FISH OR - REPTILE?--FLIES' EGGS AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD. 179 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - COURTSHIP IN MEXICO.--"PLAYING THE BEAR."--LOVERS' TROUBLES.--A - SHORT ROAD TO MATRIMONY.--PRESENTS TO THE EXPECTANT BRIDE.--THE - MARRIAGE CEREMONY.--TEDIOUS PRELIMINARIES.--CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS - MARRIAGES.--DIFFERENCES OF MARRIAGE AMONG THE COMMON PEOPLE AND - THE UPPER CLASSES.--A HAND-BOOK FOR LOVERS.--FUNERALS; HOW THEY - ARE MANAGED.--CARDS OF CONDOLENCE.--CEMETERIES.--MONUMENT TO - AMERICAN SOLDIERS.--ANNUAL DEATH-RATE IN MEXICO CITY.--PREVALENT - DISEASES.--DOMESTIC SERVANTS; THEIR NUMBER, WAGES, AND MODE OF - LIFE.--A PECULIAR LAUNDRY SYSTEM. 198 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - SCULPTURE AND PAINTING IN MEXICO.--NATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE - FINE ARTS.--BRIEF HISTORY OF MEXICAN ART.--CELEBRATED - PAINTINGS.--"LAS CASAS PROTECTING THE AZTECS."--"THE DEATH - OF ATALA."--HOW AN ARTIST MANAGED TO SELL A PICTURE.--FROM - ART TO PULQUERIAS.--THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF MEXICO.--THE - MAGUEY PLANT.--HOW PULQUE IS MADE.--COLLECTING THE SAP.-- - FERMENTING AGUAMIEL.--DAILY CONSUMPTION OF PULQUE IN THE CITY - OF MEXICO.--MANAGEMENT OF THE SHOPS.--ROMANTIC HISTORY OF THE - INVENTION OF PULQUE.--MEXICAN POLICE-COURTS.--NOVEL MODE OF - TRYING CASES.--THE BELEM PRISON.--CATALOGUE OF OFFENCES AGAINST - THE LAW.--AN ADROIT THIEF.--RUNNING THE GANTLET. 212 - - CHAPTER XV. - - THE PASEO DE LA REFORMA.--BRIGANDAGE NEAR THE CITY.--STATUE - OF CHARLES IV. OF SPAIN.--STATUE OF COLUMBUS.--A RELIC OF - MAXIMILIAN.--AQUEDUCTS FROM CHAPULTEPEC.--MONTEZUMA'S - TREE.--CHAPULTEPEC; ITS HEIGHT AND EXTENT.--MONTEZUMA'S - BATH.--THE PALACE.--"THE FEAST OF BELSHAZZAR."--NATIONAL - MILITARY COLLEGE.--MOLINO DEL REY.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ADVANCE - UPON MEXICO.--CAPTURE OF VERA CRUZ.--BATTLE OF CERRO - GORDO.--ENTERING THE VALLEY.--CONTRERAS AND CHURUBUSCO.-- - FALL OF CHAPULTEPEC.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ENTRANCE INTO THE - CITY.--TREATY OF PEACE.--GENERAL GRANT ON THE MEXICAN WAR. 229 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE.--A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF - MEXICO.--DEPARTURE OF CORTEZ FROM CUBA.--HE LANDS IN - YUCATAN.--FOUNDING THE CITY OF VERA CRUZ.--DEFEATING THE - TLASCALANS.--ENTRANCE TO TENOCHTITLAN.--RECEPTION BY - MONTEZUMA.--RETURN TO THE COAST.--EXPULSION OF THE - SPANIARDS.--BESIEGING THE CITY WITH THE AID OF THE - TLASCALANS.--CAPTURE OF THE CITY, AND DEATH OF GUATEMOZIN.-- - BEGINNING OF THE RULE OF THE VICEROYS.--THE CHURCH OF - GUADALUPE.--STORY OF THE MIRACULOUS APPARITION.--RELIGIOUS - AND POLITICAL HOLIDAY.--PILGRIMAGE TO GUADALUPE.--PENITENTES; - THEIR SELF-INFLICTED TORTURES. 248 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - AREA AND INHABITANTS OF MEXICO.--CHARACTER OF THE - POPULATION.--INDIANS, EUROPEANS, AND MESTIZOS; THEIR - RESPECTIVE NUMBERS AND CHARACTERISTICS.--INCLINATIONS - OF THE MIXED RACES.--TENDENCIES OF EDUCATED INDIANS.-- - PRESIDENT JUAREZ AS AN EXAMPLE.--HOW THE INDIANS LIVE.-- - HOW THE SPANIARDS TOOK POSSESSION OF THE LAND.--CREOLES AND - THEIR ORIGIN.--THE MESTIZOS.--LEPEROS AND THEIR CHARACTER.-- - ADROIT THIEVES.--PAWNING A CHURCH ORGAN.--THE LEPEROS AND THE - BRIGANDS.--CHURCH OF SAN DOMINGO.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE - INQUISITION IN MEXICO.--THE AUTO-DA-FÉ. 264 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL.--"THE WHITE WOMAN."--GEOGRAPHICAL - POSITION OF THE VOLCANO.--FIRST ASCENT BY WHITE MEN.-- - AMECAMECA.--HIRING HORSES AND BUYING PROVISIONS.--EQUIPMENT - FOR THE EXCURSION.--DANGER OF ROBBERS.--PEONS AND VOLCANEROS.-- - FIELDS OF BARLEY AND FORESTS OF PINE.--AN INDIAN TRADITION.-- - FATE OF THE GIANT AND GIANTESS.--ICE FROM POPOCATEPETL FOR THE - CITY OF MEXICO.--SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER.--SLEEPING AT - TLAMACAS.--ARRIVAL AT LA CRUZ.--THE ASCENT ON FOOT.-- - DIFFICULTIES OF CLIMBING IN THE RAREFIED AIR.--THE PICO DEL - FRAILE.--CAUGHT IN A CLOUD. 279 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - THE ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL CONTINUED.--LAST STEPS OF THE - UPWARD JOURNEY.--LOSS OF LIFE ON THE MOUNTAIN.--HOW THREE - INDIANS PERISHED.--THE CRATER OF THE VOLCANO.--HOW THE - SULPHUR-MINERS EXIST.--DANGERS OF THE CRATER.--THE - SOLFATARAS.--CAUGHT IN A STORM.--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.-- - SCENES IN THE CRATER.--A RAPID DESCENT.--TOBOGGANING ON A - GRAND SCALE.--HOW THE SULPHUR-MINE ORIGINATED.--NO ERUPTION - IN SEVEN THOUSAND YEARS.--RETURN TO AMECAMECA.--EXPLORATION - OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--TOMBS AND THEIR CONTENTS.-- - CURIOUS INSTANCE OF PRESERVATION.--MONTE SACRO.--"MODERN - ANTIQUITIES."--INDIANS WORSHIPPING THE VOLCANO.--EXPERIENCE - WITH A RATERO. 296 - - CHAPTER XX. - - RAPACIOUS CARGADORES.--OLD BOOK-STORES IN THE PORTALES.-- - PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL; THE PUPILS IN - ATTENDANCE.--THEATRES AND HOSPITALS.--A THEATRE SUPPORTING A - HOSPITAL.--THE BROTHERS OF CHARITY.--INSIDE THE THEATRES.--A - PERFORMANCE OF OPERA.--A MINOR THEATRE.--LISTENING TO A - MEXICAN PERFORMANCE.--BULL-FIGHTING IN MEXICO.--A - DISGRACEFUL SPORT.--ORIGIN OF THE BULL-FIGHT.--MARIONETTE - THEATRES.--THE PROCESSIONS.--MEXICAN LOVE FOR COCK-FIGHTING.-- - COMMINGLING OF RELIGIOUS CEREMONIALS AND AMUSEMENTS.--THE - POSADA AND THE PASTORELA; THEIR PECULIARITIES.--KILLING JUDAS. 312 - - CHAPTER XXI. - - EXCURSION TO TULA.--AN ANCIENT CITY OF THE TOLTECS.--CHURCH OF - THE TIME OF CORTEZ.--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TOLTECS.-- - TOLTEC KINGS, COURTS, AND KNIGHTHOOD.--RUINS OF THE TEMPLE AND - PALACE.--JOURNEY TO MORELOS.--INTEROCEANIC RAILWAY.--MORELOS - AND HIS SERVICES TO MEXICO.--CUAUTLA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS.-- - TERRIBLE RAILWAY ACCIDENT.--DOWN THE SOUTHERN SLOPE.--IN TIERRA - CALIENTE.--VISITING A SUGAR ESTATE.--TO YAUTEPEC AND - CUERNAVACA.--RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS.--SITUATION OF - CUERNAVACA.--OLD CHURCH AND PALACE OF CORTEZ.--A FORTUNATE - FRENCHMAN.--ROMANTIC INCIDENT IN THE CAPTURE OF CUERNAVACA. 328 - - CHAPTER XXII. - - OVERLAND TO ACAPULCO.--SCENES OF LONG AGO.--PRESENT MODE OF - TRAVEL.--TEN DAYS ON HORSEBACK.--WAY-SIDE ACCOMMODATIONS.-- - ACAPULCO'S HARBOR.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL.--EXCURSION TO - GUADALAJARA.--DOCTOR BRONSON LEFT BEHIND.--OLD BRIDGES AND - THEIR HISTORY.--BATTLE BETWEEN HIDALGO AND THE SPANIARDS.-- - STORIES ABOUT BRIGANDS.--SLAUGHTER BY PRIVATE ENTERPRISE.-- - HOW SEÑOR PEREZ SECURED PEACE.--ATTRACTIONS OF GUADALAJARA.-- - THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CHURCHES.--THE GREAT HOSPICIO.--WHAT - THE EARTHQUAKE DID.--PUBLIC SCHOOLS.--A DAY ON A CATTLE - HACIENDA.--A RODEO.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL. 348 - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT DIAZ; HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND - HISTORY.--A CHECKERED CAREER.--SAVED FROM THE SEA.--THE - FAITHFUL PURSER AND HIS REWARD.--CHARACTERISTICS OF DIAZ'S - ADMINISTRATION.--MADAME DIAZ.--A DIPLOMATIC MARRIAGE.--THE - ARMY AND NAVY OF MEXICO.--THE POSTAL SERVICE.--NEWSPAPERS - AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS.--PRINCIPAL WRITERS OF FICTION.--FROM - MEXICO TO PUEBLA.--HOW THE MEXICAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.-- - DIFFICULTIES OF ENGINEERING.--APIZACO.--THE CITY OF THE - ANGELS; ITS CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CURIOSITIES.--MANUFACTURES - OF PUEBLA.--BATTLE-FIELD OF CINCO DE MAYO. 364 - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - FURTHER SIGHTS IN PUEBLA.--ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.--SCHOOLS, - HOSPITALS, ASYLUMS, AND OTHER PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.--CHOLULA - AND ITS GREAT PYRAMID.--FIRST SIGHT OF THE PYRAMID; ITS - CHARACTER, SIZE, AND PECULIARITIES.--ANCIENT CHOLULA.-- - MASSACRE OF INHABITANTS BY CORTEZ.--RUMORS OF BURIED - TREASURES.--HOW A CRAFTY PRIEST WAS FOILED.--VISIT TO - TLASCALA.--THE STATE LEGISLATURE IN SESSION.--BANNER CARRIED - BY CORTEZ.--FIRST CHRISTIAN CHURCH IN AMERICA.--ANCIENT - PULPIT AND BAPTISMAL FONT.--A REVERED SHRINE.--FROM - TLASCALA TO APIZACO AND ONWARD TOWARDS THE GULF. 380 - - CHAPTER XXV. - - DOWN THE CUMBRES.--A MONSTER LOCOMOTIVE.--MALTRATA.--EL - BARRANCA DEL INFERNILLO.--IN THE TIERRA TEMPLADA.--PEAK - OF ORIZABA; HOW IT WAS ASCENDED.--AN OLD AND QUAINT TOWN.-- - EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ORIZABA.--FALLS OF THE RINCON - GRANDE.--MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES--CERRO DEL BORREGO.--THE - MEXICAN ARMY ROUTED.--CORDOBA.--HOW TO RUN A COFFEE - PLANTATION.--BARRANCA OF METLAC.--PASO DEL MACHO.--TIERRA - CALIENTE.--DRY LANDS NEAR THE SEA-COAST.--VERA CRUZ.-- - ZOPILOTES AND THEIR USES.--YELLOW FEVER; ITS SEASONS AND - PECULIARITIES.--NORTHERS AND THEIR BENEFITS. 394 - - CHAPTER XXVI. - - THE ALAMEDA OF VERA CRUZ.--TROPICAL GROWTHS.--THE PALO DE - LECHE AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--A DANGEROUS PLANT.--FOUNTAINS - AND WATER-CARRIERS.--GOVERNOR'S PALACE.--BRIEF HISTORY OF - VERA CRUZ.--PILLAGED BY PIRATES AND CAPTURED IN WARS.-- - FORTRESS OF SAN JUAN DE ULLOA.--HORRORS OF A MEXICAN - PRISON.--EXCURSION TO JALAPA.--THE NATIONAL BRIDGE.--CERRO - GORDO.--GENERAL SCOTT'S VICTORY.--JALAPA.--A CITY OF MISTS.-- - STAPLE PRODUCTS OF THE REGION.--JALAP AND ITS QUALITIES.-- - PRETTY WOMEN.--PECULIARITIES OF THE STREETS.--ORIZABA AND - PEROTE.--NEW RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.--TAMPICO AND ANTON - LIZARDO.--DELAYED BY A NORTHER.--DEPARTURE BY STEAMER.-- - FAREWELL TO VERA CRUZ. 410 - - CHAPTER XXVII. - - THE COATZACOALCOS RIVER.--ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC.--TEHUANTEPEC - RAILWAY AND SHIP-CANAL.--THE EADS SHIP-RAILWAY.--AN IDEA OF - CORTEZ.--PLANS OF CAPTAIN EADS.--A RAILWAY-CARRIAGE WITH 1200 - WHEELS.--SHIPS CARRIED IN TANKS.--ENGINEERING AND OTHER FEATURES - OF THE SHIP-RAILWAY.--MAHOGANY TRADE.--FIFTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS - FOR THREE LOGS.--FRONTERA AND TABASCO.--RUINS OF PALENQUE.-- - LORILLARD CITY.--EXPLORATIONS BY STEPHENS AND CHARNAY.--PALACE - OF PALENQUE.--TEMPLE OF THE CROSS.--TEMPLE OF LORILLARD.-- - REMARKABLE IDOL.--A REGION ABOUNDING IN RUINS.--REMAINS OF - MITLA.--PILLAR OF DEATH. 423 - - CHAPTER XXVIII. - - "THE MYSTERIOUS CITY;" STORIES AND RUMORS CONCERNING IT.-- - ACCOUNTS OF STEPHENS AND MORELET.--FATE OF TWO YOUNG - AMERICANS.--DON PEDRO VELASQUEZ.--CARMEN AND CAMPEACHY.-- - UNDERGROUND CAVES.--HOW LOGWOOD IS GATHERED; ITS COMMERCIAL - IMPORTANCE.--THE QUEZAL AND ITS WONDERFUL PLUMAGE.--SNAKES - AND SNAKE STORIES.--TRAVELLERS' TALES.--PROGRESO AND - SISAL.--HOW THE YUCATAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.--AGAVE SISALANA.-- - DISCOVERY AND CONQUEST OF YUCATAN.--A FEROCIOUS POPULATION.-- - REBELLIOUS INDIANS IN YUCATAN; HOW THEY TREAT VISITORS.-- - TOWNS AND VILLAGES DEPOPULATED. 439 - - CHAPTER XXIX. - - RAILWAY-STATION AT MERIDA.--PUBLIC CONVEYANCES.--THE - CALESA.--A RIDE THROUGH THE STREETS.--WHEN MERIDA WAS - FOUNDED.--PRACTICAL MODE OF DESIGNATING STREETS.--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS.--CASA MUNICIPAL.--DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE - PEOPLE.--INDIANS, SPANIARDS, AND MESTIZOS.--A CITY OF PRETTY - WOMEN.--CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAYA RACE.--THE MESTIZO - QUARTER.--SCENES IN THE MARKET.--BREAKFASTING AT A MEDIO - RESTAURANT.--EUCHRE OR YUCCA.--USES OF THE YUCCA PLANT.-- - GAMBLING IN YUCATAN.--LA LOTERIA; HOW IT IS PLAYED.--AMERICAN - COUNTERPART OF THE YUCATEO GAME.--A POPULAR ASSEMBLAGE. 454 - - CHAPTER XXX. - - POTTERY AND HAMMOCK MARKETS.--HAMMOCKS IN YUCATAN; THEIR - GENERAL USE FOR SLEEPING PURPOSES.--YUCATEO SALUTATIONS.--AN - AWKWARD SITUATION.--FASHIONABLE, MESTIZO, AND INDIAN BALLS.-- - CHARACTERISTIC INDIAN DANCES.--WORSHIP OF THE SUN AMONG THE - ANCIENT YUCATEOS.--NATIVE MUSIC.--ZOPILOTE DANCE.--VISIT TO A - HENEQUIN HACIENDA.--THE VOLAN COCHÉ.--A VEHICLE OF THE - COUNTRY.--A RACE AND HOW IT ENDED.--ARRIVAL AT THE HACIENDA.-- - THE SCRAPING AND BALING MACHINERY.--STARTING A PLANTATION.-- - PRICE OF THE FIBRE IN THE MARKET.--"NO MONEY IN THE - BUSINESS."--FIBRE-FACTORIES IN YUCATAN.--HOW THE OWNERS OF - ESTATES LIVE. 468 - - CHAPTER XXXI. - - FIRST NIGHT IN THE HAMMOCKS.--INSPECTING A CENOTÉ.-- - UNDERGROUND WATERCOURSES AND LAKES.--HOW CENOTÉS ARE - FORMED.--A SUBTERRANEAN BATH-HOUSE.--A NORIA.--WATER TAX ON - A DIRECT SYSTEM.--NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS.--A LIZARD THAT SHAKES - HIS TAIL OFF.--BITING A SHADOW, AND WHAT COMES OF IT.--JOURNEY - TO THE RUINS OF UXMAL.--A HEETZMEK.--YUCATEO MODE OF CARRYING - INFANTS.--BREAKFAST AT A HACIENDA.--GARDEN AT UAYALKÉ. EATING - TROPICAL LIZARDS.--FRED'S OPINION OF LIZARD STEWS.--BEES OF - THE COUNTRY.--SUPERFLUOUS INDUSTRY OF YUCATEO BEES.--EVENING - PRAYER AT A HACIENDA.--ARRIVAL AT UXMAL. 483 - - CHAPTER XXXII. - - A ROMANTIC LEGEND.--HOW THE KING WAS OVERCOME BY THE WITCH.-- - VISITING THE DWARF'S HOUSE; ITS POSITION AND PECULIARITIES.-- - HOUSE OF THE NUNS; ITS EXTENT AND CONSTRUCTION.--CASA DEL - GOBERNADOR.--DESTRUCTIVE AGENCIES AT WORK.--AT HOME IN A ROYAL - PALACE.--MAYA ARCHES.--TROPICAL TREES AND PLANTS.--DOUBLE-HEADED - DOG OF UXMAL.--GARAPATAS AND THE ANNOYANCE THEY CAUSED.--INSECT - PESTS OF YUCATAN.--DR. LE PLONGEON AND THE STATUE OF - CHAC-MOOL.--GHOSTS AND GHOST STORIES.--BIRDS OF YUCATAN.--AN - ANCIENT WATERING-PLACE. 498 - - CHAPTER XXXIII. - - A CHAPTER ON ARCHÆOLOGY.--NUMBER AND EXTENT OF THE RUINED - CITIES OF YUCATAN.--MAYAPAN, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL.--PYRAMID - OF MAYAPAN.--AKÉ AND ITS PICOTÉ.--AN ANCIENT WHIPPING-POST.-- - PYRAMIDS AT AKÉ.--HISTORICAL CONUNDRUMS.--KABAH AND ITS - MOUND.--SCULPTURE OF A MAN ON HORSEBACK.--CHICHEN-ITZA.-- - CHURCH, NUNNERY, CASTLE, AND TENNIS-COURT AT CHICHEN.-- - EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF THE SCULPTURES.--STORY OF THE CONQUEST - OF CHICHEN.--SKILFUL RETREAT OF THE SPANISH CAPTAIN.--OTHER - RUINED CITIES.--IDOLS OF COPAN.--PROBABILITIES OF CITIES YET - TO BE DISCOVERED. 513 - - CHAPTER XXXIV. - - CENTRAL AMERICA AND THE REPUBLICS COMPOSING IT; A SKETCH OF - THEIR HISTORY; AREA AND POPULATION.--SNAKES, LIZARDS, AND - OTHER CREEPING THINGS.--COSTA RICA AND ITS REVOLUTIONS.--A - PRESIDENT WHO COULDN'T READ.--HONDURAS AND ITS RESOURCES.-- - VISIT TO TEGUCIGALPA.--YUSCARAN AND ITS MINERAL WEALTH.-- - UNFORTUNATE FINANCIERING.--INTERESTING SOCIAL CUSTOMS.-- - INTEROCEANIC CANALS; THEIR PRESENT STATUS.--THE NICARAGUA - CANAL; SURVEYS, ESTIMATES, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE; - PROBABLE ADVANTAGES TO THE WORLD'S COMMERCE; TERMS OF THE - CONCESSION; ESTIMATED COST, REVENUES, AND SAVING OF - DISTANCES.--FAREWELL TO MEXICO.--THE END. 530 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - View of Popocatepetl _Frontispiece._ - Map of Mexico with its Railways _Front Cover._ - Route of the Boy Travellers in Mexico _Back Cover._ - A Next-door Neighbor 1 - The Mexican Frontier 3 - Scene on the Pennsylvania Railroad 4 - Street in El Paso 5 - Bridge over the Mississippi at St. Louis 7 - The Alamo Mission, San Antonio 8 - General Sam Houston, Liberator of Texas 9 - "G. T. T." 11 - Mexico, showing Present and Old Frontier 12 - A Group of Texan Hunters 13 - View in San Antonio, Texas 14 - On the Banks of the Rio Grande 15 - Indian Water-carriers 17 - An old Mexican Chapel by Moonlight 19 - View in Nuevo Laredo 20 - Watching the Frontier 21 - Landscape near the Border 22 - A Mexican Muleteer 23 - A Solid Silver Spur 23 - A Group of Adobe Houses 25 - The Land of Mañana 26 - The Threshing-floor 27 - Saddle Mountain, Monterey 29 - View of the Sierras 30 - View of Monterey 31 - The Plaza de Zaragoza 32 - General Taylor's Attack on Monterey, September 21, 1846 33 - The Bishop's Palace 35 - Z. Taylor 36 - Officers' Uniforms in 1860 39 - Mountain Scene near Monterey 41 - The Alameda, Monterey 42 - Native Pottery 43 - A Scene in the Market 44 - A Court-yard in Monterey 45 - A Window in Monterey 46 - View of Sierras from Bishop's Palace 47 - Santa Caterina, near Monterey 49 - The Organ Cactus 50 - Varieties of Cactus 51 - In the San Juan Valley 52 - A Solid Citizen 53 - On the Road to Buena Vista 55 - A Servant at the Hacienda 56 - Near the Kitchen 57 - Making Tortillas 58 - A Primitive Kitchen 59 - The Guide on the Battle-field 61 - The Battle of Buena Vista 63 - Boll of Mexican Cotton Plant 64 - Picking Cotton 65 - Departure of the Diligence 67 - On the Road 68 - Fight between Brigands and Soldiers 69 - Encampment of Brigands 71 - A King of the Road 72 - Cavalry Pursuing a Band of Robbers 73 - Hotel by the Way-side 75 - Street Scene at Jaral 77 - El Real de Santa Eulalia 78 - The Ravine where the Outcasts Lived 79 - On the Edge of the Cotton Field 80 - "Cotton is King" 81 - View in the Mining Region 83 - Convent and Fountain 84 - A Silver-producing Valley 86 - Cactus Growths near Zacatecas 87 - Field with Adobe Walls 88 - A Mexican Arastra 89 - Carrying Ore to the Reduction-works 90 - A Mexican Crusher 91 - Bringing Ore from the Mines 93 - Mexican Bellows 94 - Mexican Smelting-furnace 95 - An Old-fashioned Plough 96 - Farm-laborer in a Grass Cloak 97 - Hacienda near the City 98 - Prisoners at Work in the Jail 99 - Of Spanish Blood 100 - Indian Girls at a Spring 101 - A Dry Barranca 103 - Church of San Diego, Guanajuato 104 - Court-yard of a Mexican Tenement-house 105 - Superintendent's House at Silver Reduction-works 106 - A Ton of Silver 107 - A Mexican Beggar 108 - Old Convent now used as Barracks 109 - A Leading Citizen 110 - Prisoners Breaking Ore 111 - Sloping Ladders in a Silver-mine 112 - Opening a New Mine 113 - Entrance of a Mine Not in Operation 114 - A Cotton Factory, Queretaro 115 - Aqueduct of Queretaro 116 - Queretaro 118 - A Mexican Cavalry Soldier 120 - A Mexican Infantry Soldier 121 - Line of Defence held by Maximilian during the Siege of Queretaro 123 - First Protestant Church in Mexico 125 - Pueblo at Taos, New Mexico 126 - Garden of a Mexican Convent 127 - Interior of the First Methodist Episcopal Church, City of Mexico 128 - Rev. John L. Stephens, a Martyr Missionary 129 - In the Cathedral 130 - Mexican Priests 131 - Comparative Level of Lakes 132 - The Great Spanish Drainage-cut 133 - Young Girls of Tula 135 - Environs of Mexico 137 - A Member of the Church Party 139 - Transcontinental Profile of Mexico 140 - Interior Court-yard of a Mexican Hotel 141 - Street View in the Capital 142 - On the Way to Morning Mass 143 - A Modern Street Front 144 - Mexican Lottery Ticket 145 - Flower-girl 146 - The Cathedral, City of Mexico 148 - Moonlight View of Plaza and Cathedral 149 - Augustin de Iturbide, Grandson of the Liberator 151 - Granting Absolution in the Cathedral 153 - Ready for Mass 154 - Old Spanish Palace in the Calle de Jesus 154 - Church built by Cortez 155 - The Aztec Calendar-stone 156 - Indian Picture-writing 157 - Tenochtitlan, A.D. 1517 158 - First Cavalry Charge by Cortez 158 - A Flower-show in the Zocalo 159 - How the Mantilla is Worn 160 - The Trogon 161 - Near the Plaza 162 - Wax Model of Water-carrier 163 - Ancient Indian Pottery 164 - Mexican House-maid and Children 165 - The Sacrificial Stone 166 - One Form of Sacrificial Stone 167 - Sacrificial Collar 167 - The Form of Sacrifice 168 - Sculptures from Tizoc's Stone 169 - Gladiatorial Stone--from an Aztec Drawing 170 - Huitzilopochtli, the God of War 171 - The National Palace 173 - Gen. Manuel Gonzales, former President of Mexico 174 - Collateral in the Monte de Piedad 175 - To the Pawn-shop 176 - Occasional Patrons of the Monte de Piedad 177 - A Gift to Fred 179 - "My house and all it contains are yours" 181 - Seeing and Being Seen 182 - The Market-place, City of Mexico 184 - Interior of a House near the Market-place 185 - Mexican Bird-sellers 186 - View on the Canal 187 - Residence on the Banks of the Canal 188 - Sunday Diversions at Santa Anita 189 - Crew of a Cargo-boat 190 - Chinampas, or Floating Gardens 191 - Peon's House on a Chinampa 192 - Cactus Growths near the Hill of Estrella 193 - Rock Inscriptions made by Ancient Aztecs 194 - Home Scene near the Lake 195 - A Dead Fly 196 - Ruins of a Toltec House 197 - A Fortunate Bear 198 - Mexican Courtship 199 - Code-signalling with the Fan 200 - "There he is" 201 - A Student of "El Secretario" 202 - Mexican Wedding in the Country 203 - Flowers for a Lady 204 - Funeral of General Doblado, Guanajuato 205 - Soldiers' Monument in the American Cemetery 207 - Taking Things Easy 209 - A Charcoal Peddler 210 - A Mexican Wash-house 211 - The Landing of Columbus 212 - Mexican Sculpture--Door-way of Church of San José 213 - Las Casas Protecting the Aztecs 215 - The Death of Atala 217 - A Successful Artist at Work 218 - Maguey Plant 219 - The Tlachiquero 220 - Extracting Aguamiel 222 - A Glass of Aguardiente 223 - "Not caught yet" 224 - A Magistrate 225 - An Old Offender 226 - Scene of the Capture 228 - A Corner of Chapultepec 229 - Montezuma's Tree 230 - Statue of Columbus on the Paseo de la Reforma 231 - San Cosme Aqueduct 233 - Montezuma's Bath 234 - Chapultepec and its Gardens 235 - El Salto del Agua 236 - An Aztec Relic 237 - The Valley of Mexico, from the American Official Map 239 - View of the Fort of San Juan de Ulloa from Vera Cruz 240 - Battle of Cerro Gordo 241 - General Santa Anna 242 - Battle of Churubusco--Charge of the "Palmettos" 243 - Storming of Molino del Rey 244 - General Scott's Entrance into Mexico 245 - Captured at Chapultepec 246 - A Scene of Peace 247 - The Noche Triste Tree 248 - Departure of Cortez from Cuba 249 - The First Mass in the Temples of Yucatan 250 - Battle with the Indians 251 - First View of the Mexican Capital 252 - The Meeting of Cortez and Montezuma 253 - The Battle upon the Causeway 255 - The Capture of Guatemozin 256 - Ponce de Leon 257 - The Church of Guadalupe 258 - Statuette of the Virgin Mary 259 - Making a Pilgrimage Comfortably 261 - The Penitentes Walking on Cactus-leaves 262 - San Franciscan Mission 263 - Indian of Northern Mexico 264 - A Mestizo Woman 265 - Indian Girl Spinning Cotton 267 - Peddler of Wooden Trays 268 - Charcoal Vender 269 - Of the Old Aristocracy 270 - A Creole Residence 271 - Group of Mexican Horsemen 272 - A Society Belle 273 - A Mexican Grandee 274 - A Sermon in the Church 275 - Church of San Domingo 276 - Torture Chamber 277 - Prisoners of the Inquisition 278 - A Residence in the Foot-hills 279 - The Valley of Amecameca 280 - Iztaccihuatl, the White Woman 282 - Along the Trail 284 - Dwarf Pines at a High Elevation 285 - The Dome of Popocatepetl from Tlamacas 286 - Mexican Saw-mill 287 - Hacienda of Tomacoco 288 - Volcaneros (Miners) 289 - In the Pine Region 291 - El Pico del Fraile 292 - Not a Good Climber 294 - "No mountain for me!" 295 - "Hurrah for the top!" 296 - The Crater of Popocatepetl 297 - Bringing Ice from the Mountain 299 - Pack-train from Tlamacas 301 - An Improved Refinery 303 - Looking from the Top of Popocatepetl 304 - A Dangerous Place 305 - Ruins of Tlalmanalco 307 - Burial-ground of Tenenepanco 308 - Vases Found at Tenenepanco 309 - Caricature of an Aztec Warrior 310 - Ancient Aztec Vases 311 - Wants a Souvenir 312 - Ruins of San Lazero 313 - On the Way to Church 314 - Monks at their Musical Exercise 315 - A Belle of the Opera 316 - A Stage Brigand 317 - Tivoli Garden, San Cosme 319 - Teasing the Bull 320 - Picadores 320 - The Matador's Triumph 320 - The Final Blow 321 - Scenes at a Bull-fight 322 - A Bull-ring of the Highest Class 323 - A School on the Old Model 324 - Figure of Joseph (Procession of the Posada) 325 - The Railway Judas 327 - Warrior's Profile, found at Tula 329 - Church and Part of Plaza at Tula 330 - Toltec King and his Throne 331 - Ruins of a Toltec Palace 332 - The Pyramid of the Sun at Tula 333 - Parts of a Column, Tula 335 - Toltec Caryatid, Tula 336 - Native Hut on a Sugar Estate 337 - Henequin Plant 338 - Fight between Regulars and Insurgents 339 - Railway Crossing a Barranca 340 - A Product of Cuautla 341 - Travellers Resting 342 - Over the Hills 343 - A Scorpion of Cuernavaca 343 - A Church Going to Decay 344 - Mexican House with Tiled Roof 345 - Climbing the Heights 347 - A Way-side Shrine 348 - On the Road to Acapulco 349 - A Country Hotel 350 - Galleon of the Sixteenth Century 351 - Town and Castle of Acapulco 353 - A Scene on the Diligence Road 354 - An Interior Town 355 - At the Hacienda 356 - A Corner of the Market-place 357 - Court-yard of a Private House 359 - In the Poor Quarters 360 - Mexicans Planting Corn 361 - A Rodeo 362 - Driving a Herd 363 - President Porfirio Diaz 365 - View in Oajaca 366 - Saved from the Sea 367 - House with Tile Front 369 - American Residents of Mexico 371 - A Military Post 372 - A Country Post-office 373 - Compositor for _The Two Republics_ 374 - Surveying under Difficulties 376 - Ruins of the Covered Way to the Inquisition 377 - Cathedral of Puebla 378 - Street Scene in Puebla 379 - Part of Puebla 380 - Pyramid of Cholula 382 - View from the Top of the Pyramid 383 - Sport at Cholula 384 - Local Freight Train 385 - A Relic of the Past 386 - Indian Farm Laborers 387 - An Aztec Relic 388 - Interior of an Old Church 389 - First Christian Pulpit in America 390 - Old Baptismal Font, Tlascala 391 - Ancient Bells 392 - A Native Ploughman 393 - The "Portales," or Covered Walks 394 - Map of Railway between City of Mexico and Vera Cruz 395 - Double-ender Locomotive on Mexican Railway 397 - View of Orizaba 398 - The River at Orizaba 399 - Hill of El Barrago 401 - Orange Grove in Cordoba 402 - Coffee-drying 403 - Bridge of Attoyac 405 - In Tierra Caliente 406 - Vera Cruz, looking seaward 407 - After the Vomito 409 - A Coffee-carrier 410 - Fountain at Vera Cruz 412 - The Governor's Palace 413 - On the Way to the Fort 414 - The National Bridge.--Robbing a Coach 416 - Sketched at Rinconada 417 - Part of Jalapa 418 - A Narrow Street 419 - Exterior of a Church 421 - A Tourist 422 - On the River's Bank 423 - A Steamship on a Platform Car 424 - Plane and Elevation of Terminus 425 - Tank Carriage 426 - Section of Part of Cradle Carriage 427 - Map of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec 429 - Mahogany Hunters 430 - Travelling in Tabasco 431 - Plan of Part of the Palace at Palenque 433 - Medallion Bass-relief 434 - Idol in Temple at Lorillard City 435 - The Cross of Palenque 436 - Grand Hall at Mitla 437 - Exterior of Temple at Mitla 438 - In the Forest 439 - John L. Stephens 440 - Seeking the Mysterious City 441 - Campeachy Tobacco 443 - The Quezal 444 - Difficulties of Travel in Campeachy 445 - Map of Yucatan 447 - Tropical Railway Train and Station 448 - Flock of Pelicans 449 - Sisal-hemp 450 - Indians of Yucatan 451 - Retreating from Hostile Indians 453 - In the Outskirts 454 - The Calesa.--Entrance of a Merida House 455 - House built by Montejo 457 - Musical Instruments 458 - Municipal Palace and Square, Merida 459 - Dancing Scene 460 - Native Village in the Interior 461 - Fruit-sellers in the Market-place 463 - Sitting for her Portrait 464 - In the Market-place 465 - No more "Loteria" 467 - Hammock Lodgings in the Country 468 - View on a Back Street 469 - Scene in a Ball-room 471 - Indians Dancing 473 - Preparing for the Ball 475 - A Volan Coché 476 - A Street in Merida 477 - A Primitive Sugar-mill 479 - Railway-station in the Henequin District 480 - Storehouse at the Hacienda 481 - A Morning Run 482 - A Corner of the Hacienda 483 - An Underground Walk 484 - Formation of Stalactites 485 - At a Noria 487 - At Home in Merida 489 - Scene of the Heetzmek 490 - Garden of the Hacienda 491 - Native Village near Uxmal 493 - Hunting the Iguana 494 - What Perfumes the Honey 495 - The Sierra from the Garden of the Hacienda 496 - Side of Ancient Altar 497 - Archway of Las Monjas, Uxmal 498 - Hacienda of Uxmal 499 - Dwarf's House and East Wing of the Casa de las Monjas 501 - Façade of West Wing of Casa de las Monjas 503 - Ground-plan of Las Monjas 504 - Casa del Gobernador 505 - Ground-plan of Casa del Gobernador 506 - Statue of Double-headed Dog, Uxmal 507 - Decorations over Door-way of Casa del Gobernador 509 - An Unwelcome Visitor 510 - Statue of Chac-Mool 511 - Maya Arches 512 - Yucateo Sculpture 513 - Great Mound at Mayapan 514 - Circular Edifice at Mayapan 515 - Sculptured Head of Yucatan 517 - Pillars of Great Gallery, Aké 519 - Head of Incense-burner 520 - Maya Sculpture (Profile) 520 - Ruined Arch at Kabah 521 - Façade of El Castillo 522 - Bass-relief, Chichen-Itza 523 - Door-posts in Tennis-court 524 - Casa Colorada 525 - Head of War-god, from Copan 526 - Idol of Copan (from Stephens) 527 - Decoration over Door-way 528 - Map of Central America 529 - In a Central American Forest 530 - Government Palace, San José 531 - Central American Lodgings 533 - Banana Plantation in Costa Rica 534 - Don Bernardo de Soto, President of Costa Rica 535 - Gen. Luis Bogran, President of Honduras 536 - Tegucigalpa, Capital of Honduras 537 - Street in Yuscaran 538 - Old Bridge at Tegucigalpa 539 - Statue of Morazan, Tegucigalpa 540 - Bird's-eye View of the Nicaragua Canal 541 - Profile of Nicaragua Canal 542 - A Section of the Canal 543 - River San Juan at Toro Rapids 544 - Street in Greytown 545 - El Castillo, San Juan River 546 - View of Lake Nicaragua 547 - Mozo in Full Dress 548 - Fort San Carlos 549 - Native Boats, Lake Nicaragua 550 - Central American Hacienda 551 - Birds of Nicaragua 552 - - - - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS -IN -MEXICO. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.--PLANS FOR THE JOURNEY.--TO MEXICO BY -RAIL.--BAGGAGE, AND BOOKS ON THE COUNTRY.--BRUSHING UP THEIR KNOWLEDGE -OF SPANISH.--WESTWARD FROM NEW YORK.--A HALT AT ST. LOUIS.--SAN ANTONIO, -TEXAS.--VISIT TO THE ALAMO.--REMINISCENCES OF THE FALL OF THE -ALAMO.--BATTLE OF SAN JACINTO AND INDEPENDENCE OF TEXAS.--NOTES ON THE -RAILWAYS OF NORTHERN MEXICO.--OLD TEXAS AND MODERN CHANGES.-- -"G. T. T."--PRESENT WEALTH OF THE STATE.--ARRIVAL ON THE FRONTIER OF -MEXICO. - - -"I've news for you, Frank!" - -"Well, what is it?" - -"We're going to Mexico next week," answered Fred; "at any rate, that is -uncle's plan, and he will tell us all about it this evening." - -[Illustration: A NEXT-DOOR NEIGHBOR.] - -"The news is good news," was the reply; "for Mexico is one of the -countries that just now I want very much to see. We have heard a great -deal about it since the railway was completed to the capital; and then, -you know, the Mexicans are our neighbors." - -"That is true," said Fred; "here we've been going all over the rest of -the world, and haven't yet called on our neighbors, and next-door -neighbors too. But we're not alone in this, as it is probable that for -every inhabitant of the Northern States who has visited Mexico, a -hundred have been across the Atlantic." - -This conversation occurred between Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson -shortly after returning from their tour among the islands of the Pacific -Ocean and through New Zealand, Tasmania, and Australia. The accounts of -their journeys have appeared in several volumes, with which our readers -are or should be familiar.[1] - -[1] "The Boy Travellers in the Far East" (five volumes), and "The Boy -Travellers in South America," "The Boy Travellers in the Russian -Empire," "The Boy Travellers on the Congo," and "The Boy Travellers in -Australasia" (four volumes). See complete list at the end of this book. - -The youths waited with some impatience until evening, when they were to -hear from Doctor Bronson the details of the proposed trip. In the mean -time they devoted themselves to their Spanish grammars and dictionaries, -which they had not seen for months, owing to their occupation with other -matters. And we may here add that until their departure and while they -were on the road, every moment that could be applied to the study of the -language of the country whither they were bound was industriously -employed. By the time they crossed the border they were able to speak -Spanish very well, and had very little need of interpreters. - -"We shall go to Mexico by rail," said the Doctor, "and return by sea; at -any rate, that is my plan at present, but circumstances may change it. -It is my intention to visit the principal cities and other places of -interest, and also to give some attention to the antiquities of the -country and of Central America; exactly what places we shall see I -cannot say at this moment, nor how long we shall be absent." - -"What shall we need in the way of baggage?" one of the youths asked. - -"About what you need for a long journey north and south in the United -States," was the reply. "You will need clothing for hot weather as well -as for cold. We shall find it quite chilly in certain parts of the -_tierra fria_, or highlands, and warm enough in the _tierra caliente_, -or lowlands along the coast. You must have outer and under clothing -adapted to warm and cool climates, and your ulsters may be placed for -convenience in the same bundle with your linen dusters. Have a good -supply of under-clothing, as the facilities for laundry-work are not the -best, even in the large cities; but do not load yourselves with anything -not absolutely necessary, as the Mexican railways allow only -thirty-three pounds of baggage to a local passenger, and the charges for -extra weight are high. Passengers with through tickets from the United -States are entitled to one hundred and fifty pounds of baggage free. - -"Of course," continued the Doctor, "you will want some books on Mexico, -partly for historical research and partly for description. There is an -excellent guide-book which was written by Mr. Janvier, and there is -another by Mr. Conkling; get them both, and also 'Old Mexico and her -Lost Provinces,' by Mr. Bishop, 'Mexico of To-day,' by Mr. Griffin, and -'Our Next-door Neighbor,' by Bishop Haven. Don't forget Charnay's -'Ancient Cities of the New World,' and Prescott's 'Conquest of Mexico.' -You can read the latter book before we go; it is inconveniently large -for travelling purposes, and so we will leave it behind us, as we can -easily find it in the City of Mexico, in case we wish to refer to it -again. Abbott's 'Life of Hernando Cortez' is a more portable work, and -will serve to refresh your memory concerning what you read in Prescott's -volumes." - -[Illustration: THE MEXICAN FRONTIER.] - -The conversation lasted an hour or more, and by the time it ended the -boys almost felt that they were already in the land of the Aztecs. Their -dreams through the night were of ancient temples and modern palaces, -Aztec and Spanish warriors, snowy mountains and palm-covered plains, -mines of silver and other metals, fortresses, cathedrals, haciendas and -hovels, and of many races and tribes of men that dwell in the land they -were about to see. Fred declared in the morning that he had dreamed of -Montezuma and Maximilian walking arm in arm, and Frank professed to have -had a similar vision concerning Cortez and General Scott. - -For the next few days the youths had no spare time on their hands, and -when the start was made for the proposed journey they were well prepared -for it both mentally and materially. They had followed Doctor Bronson's -directions as to their outfit of clothing and other things, had procured -the books which he named, and, as we have already seen, had made a -vigorous overhauling of their Spanish grammars and phrase-books. - -[Illustration: SCENE ON THE PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD.] - -From New York there are several routes westward, as our readers are -pretty well aware, and the youths were a little puzzled to know which -one would be chosen. The mystery was solved by the Doctor on the day -before their departure. He announced that they would go to St. Louis by -the Pennsylvania Railroad, and from there to the frontier of Mexico by -the Missouri Pacific and Southern Pacific lines. "And now," said he, "I -will leave you to choose the route to the capital city, and you need not -decide until we reach St. Louis." - -The Doctor's suggestion compelled a study of the maps and a careful -reading of the guide-books and other literature pertaining to the -journey. The result of their study may be summed up as follows from an -entry which Frank made in his note-book: - -[Illustration: STREET IN EL PASO.] - -"The first railway which was opened from the United States to the City -of Mexico was the Mexican Central, which runs from El Paso, Texas, or -rather from Paso del Norte, Mexico, which is opposite to El Paso, on the -other side of the Rio Grande. Its length is 1224 miles, and it was -completed March 8, 1884, at the station of Fresnillo, 750 miles from -Paso del Norte, the line having been built from both ends at the same -time. Three years and six months were required for its construction, and -the line is said to have cost more than thirty-two millions of dollars; -eight miles of track were laid during the last day of the work before -the two ends of the line were brought together; and considering all the -disadvantages of the enterprise, it reflects great credit upon those who -managed it. - -"For more than four years the Mexican Central was the only all-rail -route for travellers from the United States to the City of Mexico, and -it had a practical monopoly of business. In 1888 two other lines were -opened; or perhaps we might say, another line and half of a third. These -are the Mexican National Railway, from Laredo, Texas, to Mexico City, a -distance of 825 miles, and the International Railway, from Piedras -Negras, Mexico, opposite Eagle Pass, Texas, to a point on the Mexican -Central, about half-way between El Paso and Mexico. The International is -the one which we call half a line, as it makes a new route into Mexico, -and from all we can learn a very good one too. - -"The Central is a standard-gauge road, four feet eight and one-half -inches wide, while the National is a narrow-gauge line, three feet -between the rails; the advantage of the National line is that it is much -shorter than the Central, as I will proceed to show. - -"From St. Louis to Mexico City, by way of Laredo, the distance is 1823 -miles, while by the Central line it is 2584 miles; there is thus a -saving of 761 miles, or about thirty hours in time. But the Central will -take us through five or six interesting cities, while the National only -goes near Monterey, San Luis Potosi, and Toluca. - -"Fred and I have decided to ask uncle to go by neither one route nor the -other, but to travel by both of them, and the International line in -addition; and this is the way we propose to do it: - -"We'll go from St. Louis to Laredo because of the saving of time and -distance, and then we'll go to Monterey, which is an interesting city, -by the National Railway. After we've done Monterey we'll go farther on, -to Saltillo, and there we can cross over to Jaral, about forty miles, -and find ourselves on the main line of the International Railway. There -the train will pick us up and carry us to Torreon, on the Mexican -Central Railway, and from there we can continue to the capital, seeing -the best part of the Central line, or rather of the country through -which it runs. The northern part of the route of the Central is said to -be dreary and uninteresting, and so we shall be able to avoid it by the -plan we have made." - -The scheme was duly unfolded to the Doctor, who promptly gave his -approval and commended the youths for the careful study they had made -of the railway system of northern Mexico. "Later on," said he, "we will -consider the subject of railways in other parts of Mexico, and I'm sure -you will be able to make some interesting notes about it for your -friends at home. Mexico was for a long time very backward in railway -enterprises, but in the past few years she has gone ahead very rapidly. -Ten years ago there were not five hundred miles of railway in the -country; now there are nearly, if not quite, five thousand miles, and in -ten years from this time there will be double that number. The Mexico of -to-day is very different from the Mexico of a quarter of a century ago." - -[Illustration: BRIDGE OVER THE MISSISSIPPI AT ST. LOUIS.] - -Our friends stopped a day in St. Louis, and another at San Antonio, -Texas, partly for sight-seeing purposes and partly for rest. At the -former city the great bridge over the Mississippi excited the wonder and -admiration of the youths, who heard with much interest the story of its -construction and the difficulties which the engineers encountered in -laying the foundations. At San Antonio they had their first glimpse of -Mexican life, as the city is quite Mexican in character, and at one time -was almost wholly so. Doctor Bronson told them that about one-third of -the inhabitants are of Mexican origin, and they could easily believe it -as they saw the Mexican features all about them on the streets, and -heard the Spanish language quite as often as any other. - -[Illustration: THE ALAMO MISSION, SAN ANTONIO.] - -The object of greatest interest to them was the Alamo, the old fort -which, in 1836, the Texans, who were fighting for independence, so -heroically but unsuccessfully defended. They were disappointed to find -that there is not much remaining of the fort, which originally consisted -of an oblong enclosure, about an acre in extent, with walls three feet -thick, and eight or ten feet high. "There were 144 men in the Alamo, and -they were besieged by 4000 Mexican troops under General Santa Anna," -said a gentleman who accompanied them to the spot. "The Mexicans had -artillery, and the Texans had none, and against such odds it was -hopeless to resist. Santa Anna sent a summons for them to surrender, and -throw themselves upon Mexican mercy, but they refused to do so, and -defied him and his army." - -As he paused a moment, Fred asked why they refused to surrender when the -odds were so much against them. - -"They knew what Mexican mercy was," said the gentleman. "It was -illustrated not long afterwards at Goliad, where Colonel Fannin -surrendered with 412 men as prisoners of war. They were promised to be -released under the rules of war, and one Sunday morning, when they were -singing 'Home, sweet home,' they were marched out and massacred, every -man of them. The slaughter lasted from six till eight, and then the -bodies of the slain were burned by orders of the general. It is proper -to say that the Mexican officers were generally disgusted with the -terrible business, but they were obliged to obey the orders of Santa -Anna, or be themselves shot down. His policy was one of extermination, -and he could have said on his death-bed that he left no enemies behind -him, as he had killed them all. - -"Well," continued their informant, "the siege of the Alamo began on the -23d of February, 1836, and lasted for thirteen days. Over 200 shells -were thrown into the fort in the first twenty-four hours, but not a man -was injured by them, while the Texan sharp-shooters picked off a great -number of the Mexicans. Santa Anna made several assaults, but was driven -back each time, and it is believed that he lost fully 1500 men in the -siege. On the morning of the 6th of March a final assault was made, and -the fort was captured; every man was killed in the fighting excepting -six who surrendered, and among the six was the famous Col. David -Crockett. Santa Anna ordered all of them to be cut to pieces, and -Crockett fell with a dozen sword-wounds after his own weapons had been -given up. Colonel Travis, who commanded the fort, was also killed, and -so was Colonel Bowie, who was ill in bed at the time, and was shot where -he lay. He was the inventor of the bowie-knife, which has been famous -through the West and South-west for a good many years. Only three -persons were spared from death, a woman, a child, and a servant." - -"How long was that before the battle of San Jacinto?" one of the youths -asked. - -[Illustration: GEN. SAM HOUSTON, THE LIBERATOR OF TEXAS.] - -"Less than seven weeks," was the reply, "and never was there a more -complete victory than at that battle. Gen. Sam Houston retreated slowly, -and was followed by the Mexican army. He burned a bridge behind his -enemies, and suddenly attacking them on the afternoon of April 21st, he -killed half their number and captured nearly all the rest. The war-cry -of the Texans was 'Remember the Alamo! remember Goliad!' and maddened by -the recollection of the cruelties of the Mexicans, they fought like -tigers, and carried everything before them. Santa Anna, disguised as a -soldier, was captured the next day; Houston had hard work to save him -from the fury of the Texans, but he was saved, and lived to fight again -ten years later. But the battle of San Jacinto ended the war, and made -Texas independent of Mexico." - -A ride of a hundred and fifty miles to the south-west from San Antonio -brought our friends to Laredo, on the banks of the Rio Grande, the -dividing line between the United States and Mexico. The ride was through -a thinly settled country, devoted principally to grazing, and there were -few objects of interest along the route. The time was varied with -looking from the windows of the car, with the perusal of books, and by -conversation concerning the Texan war for independence, to which the -thoughts of the party had naturally turned through their visit to the -Alamo at San Antonio. - -"Texas was a province of Mexico," said the Doctor, "in the early part of -the present century, the Spaniards having established missions and -stations there at the same time that the French established missions and -military posts in Louisiana. The territorial boundaries between France -and Spain were never very clearly defined; the two countries were in a -constant quarrel about their rights, and when we purchased the Louisiana -territory from France we inherited the dispute about the boundaries. -Adventurers from various parts of the United States poured into the -country, and the population was more American than Mexican; there were -many respectable men among the American settlers, but there was also a -considerable proportion of what might be called 'a bad lot.'" - -"I have read somewhere," said Frank, "a couplet which is said to have -been composed by a resident of the country fifty years ago, and to have -given the State its name. - - "'When every other land rejects us, - This is the land that freely takes us.'" - -[Illustration: "G. T. T."] - -"And I," said Fred, "have read somewhere that when a man ran away to -cheat his creditors, or for any more serious reason, it was commonly -said that he had 'gone to Texas.' When the sheriffs looked for somebody -whom they wished to arrest and were unable to find him, they indorsed -the warrant with the initial letters 'G. T. T.' before returning it to -the authorities who issued it. Sometimes an absconding debtor saved his -friends the trouble of looking for him by leaving on his door a card -bearing these interesting letters." - -"Undoubtedly," continued the Doctor, "there was a rough population in -Texas in those days, but the men composing it were not deficient in -bravery, and they had the spirit of independence in the fullest degree. -While the United States and Mexico were disputing about the boundaries, -the Texans set up a claim for independence, and the war which was ended -by the battle of San Jacinto was like our Revolutionary War a hundred -and more years ago. After Texas had secured her independence, she set up -a government of her own; she had a president and all the other officials -pertaining to a republic, and was recognized by England, France, and -other European countries. This did not last long, as her finances fell -into a deplorable condition, and the preponderance of Americans among -the population naturally led to a movement for annexation to the United -States. Annexation was followed by war with Mexico, and it grew out of -the old dispute about the boundaries. Mexico claimed all land west of -the Nueces River, while Texas claimed to own as far west as the Rio -Grande. Each country believed it was right, and our war with Mexico -resulted in the defeat of the Mexican armies, the occupation of their -capital, and the establishment of the right of the United States to all -territory east of the Rio Grande." - -"Texas is therefore one of the lost provinces of Mexico," said Frank. - -"Yes," was the reply; "it is one of them, and a very large one, as it -has an area of nearly three hundred thousand square miles, and is a -country of great future possibilities. But Texas was by no means the -greatest of the losses of Mexico by the war, as California, Nevada, -Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico were taken by us as compensation for our -trouble, and you know what they are to-day. About the time that the -treaty of peace was signed and the cession of territory made, gold was -discovered in California, and the wonderful wealth of the Pacific coast -and the Rocky Mountain region was rapidly developed. Look on the map in -Mr. Bishop's book and see what Mexico was before and after the war." - -[Illustration] - -The boys made a careful inspection of the map, and as it will be -interesting to their friends at home, we here reproduce it. - -"The Mexicans were severely punished for their cruelty to the Texans," -said Fred, "and were probably sorry for their butcheries at Goliad and -the Alamo when they sat down to think of the war and how it turned out. - -[Illustration: A GROUP OF TEXAN HUNTERS.] - -"The responsibility for those butcheries rests rather upon General Santa -Anna than on the officers and soldiers who executed his orders. He -started out in a war of extermination, and there is abundant evidence -that his officers loathed the work they had to perform. One of them, -writing from Goliad at the time of the massacre of Colonel Fannin and -his men, said, 'This day, Palm Sunday, has been to me a day of -heart-felt sorrow. What an awful scene did the field present when the -prisoners were executed and fell in heaps, and what spectator could view -it without horror!' It has been said that the feeble resistance that -Santa Anna's men made at the battle of San Jacinto was in consequence of -the willingness of officers and soldiers to be captured so that the -terrible war could come to an end." - -"Texas is now a very prosperous State," continued the Doctor; "the value -of its taxable property is nearly seven hundred millions of dollars, and -some authorities say it is more, and it has seven millions of cattle, -ten millions of sheep, and horses and mules in proportion. By the census -of 1880 it had a population of more than one and a half millions, and it -is probable that 1890 will give it more than two millions. Its area -would make five States as large as New York, thirty-three as large as -Massachusetts, and two hundred and twelve of the size of Rhode Island. -That it has changed greatly from the days before the annexation, and is -favorable to peace and good order, is shown by its liberal appropriation -for schools, its laws relative to the sale of intoxicating drinks, the -fines it imposes for carrying pistols and bowie-knives, and its -penalties for using them." - -There was further conversation about the south-west and its -peculiarities, when the train reached the frontier and attention was -turned to Mexico and the new land that they were about to visit. - -[Illustration: VIEW IN SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -HOTELS ON THE FRONTIER.--ACCOMMODATIONS AT LAREDO.--SMUGGLING OVER THE -BORDER.--LAREDO AS A RAILWAY CENTRE.--THE RIO GRANDE AND ITS -PECULIARITIES.--RIVERS BENEATH THE SANDS.--ENTERING MEXICAN -TERRITORY.--EXAMINATIONS AT THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.--MEXICAN TARIFFS.--BRIBERY -AMONG OFFICIALS.--LEAVING NUEVO LAREDO.--A DREARY -PLAIN.--FELLOW-PASSENGERS WITH OUR FRIENDS.--A MEXICAN IRISHMAN.--PEOPLE -AT THE STATIONS.--ADOBE HOUSES; HOW THEY ARE MADE.--THE LAND OF -_MAÑANA_.--_POCO TIEMPO_ AND _QUIEN SABE_.--LAMPASAS.--_MESA DE LOS -CARTUJANOS_.--PRODUCTS OF NUEVO LEON.--SADDLE AND MITRE -MOUNTAINS.--MONTEREY. - - -It was nine o'clock in the evening when the train reached Laredo from -San Antonio, and our friends found that they would have to pass the -night in the town. They had been recommended to patronize the Commercial -Hotel; their informant said he could not speak loudly in its praise. "It -is the least bad of the hotels in the place," said he, "and a great deal -better than sleeping on the ground in the open air, as you would have -been obliged to do here only a few years ago. In the language of the far -West, it beats nothing all out of sight." - -There was a sign of civilization in the shape of an omnibus, rather a -rickety and weak-springed affair, it is true, but still an omnibus, and -it carried them safely to the hotel, whither their baggage followed in a -wagon. The crowd around the station when the train arrived was a mixture -of American and Mexican, with a few Indians by way of variety. The -population of the frontier is quite a puzzle to the ethnologist at -times, and the work of classification is by no means easy. Some of the -patrons of the hotel were Mexicans of the better sort, and they mingled -freely with the Americans who had lived long enough in Texas to feel at -home. The Texas towns along the border contain a goodly number of -residents who are engaged in defrauding the revenue of Mexico by -engaging in the business of smuggling goods into that country; there is -also a fair amount of smuggling from Mexico into the United States, and -the customs officials on both sides are kept reasonably busy in seeing -that the rights of their respective nations are defended. The -peculiarity of revenue laws all the world over is that every country -considers it quite proper to violate those of any other, but is very -indignant if its own regulations are not respected. - -Supper at the hotel was endurable by hungry travellers, but would have -failed to meet the desires of the epicure; and the same may be said of -breakfast on the following morning. As the train for Mexico started at -eight o'clock,[2] there was not much time for sight-seeing after -breakfast, though sufficient to discover that Laredo was a comparatively -new town, whose existence was mainly due to the railways that lead to -it. There was a town there in the early days of the Spanish -colonization, but it was completely destroyed in the frontier troubles, -and the site was deserted until Texas became one of the United States. -The International and Great Northern Railway runs to San Antonio and -beyond: one division of the Mexican National Railway, known as the -Texas-Mexican, connects Laredo with Corpus Christi, on the Gulf of -Mexico, 160 miles away; and the next, called the Northern Division, -unites it with the City of Mexico. Other railways are projected, and -those who have corner or other lots in Laredo predict a great future for -the city. - -[2] Since the Boy Travellers made their journey through Mexico the -time-table of the Mexican National Railway has been changed. The express -train leaves Laredo at 6.35 P.M., and Nuevo Laredo at 8.20. Monterey is -reached at 2.40 A.M., and Saltillo, where passengers take breakfast, at -6.20. They dine at Catorce, sup at San Luis Potosi, and reach the City -of Mexico at 9.50 on the second morning after their departure from the -Rio Grande. - -[Illustration: ON THE BANKS OF THE RIO GRANDE.] - -The Rio Grande is not an imposing river at Laredo, and our young -friends were disappointed when they saw it. They had looked for a stream -of magnitude, as implied by the name, and were not prepared for one that -could be forded without much danger, and was so diminutive as to remind -them of those rivers of the Western States where it is necessary to use -a sprinkling-pot at certain seasons of the year to let strangers know -where the stream is. The Doctor told them that the Rio Grande was known -as the Rio Bravo in the lower part of its course, and Frank suggested -that it was because the river was very brave to come so far with such -poor encouragement. - -[Illustration: INDIAN WATER-CARRIERS.] - -"But the stream which now looks so insignificant," Doctor Bronson -explained, "is subject to periodical floods, owing to the melting of the -snows in the mountains where it takes its rise. They begin in April, -reach their greatest height in May, and subside in June, and while they -last they fill the whole bed of the stream, and overflow the banks -wherever they are low. Some of its tributaries at such times are roaring -floods, while ordinarily they are only dry beds, where not a drop of -water can be seen for many miles. But if you dig a few feet into the -sandy bed of these streams you will find water; emigrants travelling -through this country carry an empty barrel from which both heads are -removed, and by sinking this barrel into the sand they obtain a -plentiful supply of water. A knowledge of this fact has saved many -lives, and ignorance of it has caused deaths by thirst when suffering -might easily have been avoided." - -The first bridge erected by the railway company at Laredo was of wood; -it served its purpose until the first flood, when it was torn from its -foundations and carried away. The present bridge is a substantial one of -iron, and promises to last a long time. - -From Laredo the train moved slowly across the river, along a bridge -whose height was intended to make it secure against the severest floods, -until it reached the station of Nuevo Laredo, on the Mexican side, two -or three miles from Texan Laredo. Here there was an examination of -baggage by the Mexican customs officials; they were polite, and our -friends had learned from long experience in custom-houses to be polite -in return. The result was that the examination of their belongings was -very slight, while that of some of the passengers who displayed ill -manners was much more severe. The Doctor and the youths produced the -keys of their trunks and opened them before being asked to do so, and -promptly announced the contents of the receptacles. They had nothing -dutiable, and in a very few minutes the ordeal was ended. - -Frank made the following note about the Mexican custom-house: - -"Mexico is a land of high tariffs, and pretty nearly everything that can -be imported is taxed. Machinery was formerly imported free, but it is -now subject to duty, and so is almost everything except agricultural and -scientific instruments and books. There is also a duty on packages apart -from their contents, and there is a heavy duty on all kinds of -carriages. Baggage for personal use is admitted free of duty, unless -there is reason to suspect that the owner has an intention to sell; two -or three suits of clothing will pass without question, but ten or twelve -would be liable to detention and duty. The laws require that the -examination of baggage shall be conducted 'liberally, and with prudence -and moderation,' and certainly we have no occasion to complain of -discourtesy. In addition to clothing 'not excessive in quantity,' a -traveller may have two watches with their chains, a cane, an umbrella, -one or two pistols with equipments and cartridges, one hundred cigars, -forty small packages of cigarettes, a rifle or fowling-piece, one pound -of smoking tobacco or snuff, and any musical instruments in actual use -except pianos and organs. When a resident of the United States crosses -the Rio Grande into Mexican territory with his own carriage he must pay -the duties on the vehicle, or give a bond for their payment in case he -does not return to the United States. - -[Illustration: AN OLD MEXICAN CHAPEL BY MOONLIGHT.] - -"As the relations of the United States and Mexico increase in intimacy, -it is probable that there will be a reciprocity treaty; negotiations to -that end have been going on for some time, but are delayed by the usual -'hitches' that arise in such matters. At the entrance of Mexican cities -there is an examination something like the _octroi_ of European cities, -but so far as tourists are concerned it is very slight. They merely -declare that they have nothing dutiable, and are allowed to pass on. -There is an examination on leaving Mexico, as there is an export duty of -five per cent. on bullion, and a prohibition against taking antiquities -from the country. As a matter of fact, a good many antiquities are -carried away, but as the greater part of them are fictitious the -restriction is not rigidly enforced. - -[Illustration: VIEW IN NUEVO LAREDO.] - -"We have heard several stories about how the Mexican custom-house is -defrauded by the bribery of officials, but have no means of knowing if -they are true or false. Certainly we did not offer any money to the men -at the custom-house, and none of them intimated that he desired to be -bribed. If a quarter of the stories have any truth at all, there must be -a great deal of dishonesty along the frontier, but it is not confined to -the Mexicans. - -"Pack-trains loaded with dutiable goods start openly from the frontier -towns of Texas, ford the river, and make their way into the interior of -Mexico. The trade is so large that it could hardly be carried on without -official connivance. The author of 'Mexico of To-day' says in regard to -this subject: 'Those well informed with regard to trade interests agree -that a great deal of smuggling exists, owing to the high tariff and the -great frontier stretch that invites law-breakers. It is said that -millions more of American goods find their way into Mexico than show in -the statistics prepared by either Government.' - -"Another writer says: 'The traveller is permitted to enter all his -personal apparel free of duty; in fact everything that he really needs. -A great many things he does not need may be taken in also, for the -official's pay is meagre and he loves to gaze on the portraits of -American worthies as depicted on our national currency. It is well to -caution the traveller that he must, if requested, state to the proper -authorities his name and profession.'" - -In due time the train rolled out of Nuevo Laredo, and our friends were -contemplating the scenery of northern Mexico. For the first fifty or -sixty miles there was not much to contemplate, as the country consists -of a plain covered with chaparral, and one mile of it is very much like -any other. "A little of it goes a great ways," said Frank to Fred; and -after a brief study of the cactus and mesquite landscape, the youths -turned to their books or to observations upon the train and the -passengers accompanying them. - -As stated elsewhere, the National Railway is of three feet gauge, and -therefore it was to be expected that the cars would be narrow and -possibly inconvenient. But our friends found them roomy and comfortable; -there was a parlor-car with reclining-chairs, for which an extra price -was charged, and sleeping-cars all the way from Laredo to the City of -Mexico, just as sleeping-cars are run on other lines. - -[Illustration: WATCHING THE FRONTIER.] - -The passengers included several tourists like themselves, a few railway -agents, some mysterious characters who could not be "placed," and six or -eight men of business who cared nothing for scenery, politics, or -anything else pertaining to Mexico, except the facilities for commerce -and the duties upon imported goods. One of these individuals loudly -denounced the protective duties in the Mexican tariff system, and -declared that the country would never amount to anything until it -abolished its restrictions upon importations and opened its markets to -the world. In the discussion that followed, the fact was revealed that -he was a citizen of the United States, and interested in manufactures; -concerning the tariff system of his own country, he favored protection, -as it encouraged American industries and was the only system under which -the people who worked with their hands could make a living. Frank wanted -to ask him why he favored one system for Mexico and another for the -United States, but he modestly refrained from so doing; another -passenger asked the question, but it remained unanswered; and to this -day the youth has not been enlightened on the subject. - -[Illustration: LANDSCAPE NEAR THE BORDER.] - -Among the passengers were several Mexicans, whose nationality was -readily shown by their swarthy complexions and the peculiarities of -their dress. They wore the sombrero, or wide-brimmed hat of the country, -but it may here be remarked that of late years the American hat has come -somewhat into fashion and is less unpopular than of yore. Some of them -proved to be naturalized Mexicans rather than native born; one in -particular was a jolly Irishman who had been thirty years in Mexico, -spoke its language fluently, and had been so browned by the sun that his -complexion was fully up to the national standard. He joined Doctor -Bronson and the youths in conversation, and cordially invited them to -make a break in their journey and visit his hacienda. - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN MULETEER.] - -He had a Mexican wife, and was the owner of a large area of land, on -which he had so many cattle that he was unable to give their number -within two or three hundred. He said he came from Ireland to the United -States, drifted down to the frontier of Mexico just before the American -Civil War, and in order to avoid being mixed up in the troubles, he -crossed the boundary and sought shelter under a neutral flag. There he -had remained and prospered to such an extent that he had no wish to -return either to the United States or his native land. - -[Illustration: A SOLID SILVER SPUR.] - -Fred made note of the dress of a _haciendado_, or ranch-owner, who was -seated near him and might fairly be taken as the type of the dandy -horseman of Mexico. The man wore a suit of dark blue or blue-black -cloth, the suit consisting of two garments, a jacket and trousers. The -jacket was short and well fitted, and it was ornamented with large -buttons of silver; the trousers were close-fitting, and on the outer -seams were rows of silver buttons smaller than those that decorated the -jacket. The feet were incased in top-boots with high heels, and each -boot carried a large spur of solid silver; the spur is a cruel weapon, -with long rowels upon wheels as large as a half-dollar. The man's jacket -was open in front, displaying a frilled or ruffled shirt, white as snow, -and connected to the trousers at the waist by a _faja_, or sash, whose -predominating color was red. The Mexicans are fond of gaudy colors, and -the taste for them runs through all classes of the population. Though it -was not worn in the railway-train, we must not forget the _serape_, or -Mexican blanket, which is carried over the shoulders or on the arm, or -in the case of a mounted horseman, is thrown across the front of the -saddle. - -The sombrero of this haciendado was of a light gray color; the -head-covering may be of almost any color under the sun, but the -preference is nearly always for something bright. The crown may be -rounded off like the large end of an egg, or form a truncated cone, like -the crown of the hat worn by the Puritans, and it is encircled by three -or four turns of silver or gold cord. Gold or silver trimming around the -brim completes the ornamentation; altogether there is considerable -weight to the Mexican sombrero, but nobody seems to mind it. - -At the stations where the train halted from time to time, the travellers -obtained glimpses of men and things peculiar to the country. Horsemen -were in goodly proportion, as no Mexican who can afford a horse will be -without one; and sometimes when he cannot afford it, he manages to -possess the steed of his desires by the simple process of stealing it. -Wagons and pack-trains were not infrequent; and one of the picturesque -spectacles in connection with them was the muleteers, or mule-drivers, -who were almost invariably barefooted, wore but little clothing, and -carried the ropes and other apparatus needed for their professions in -bags slung over their shoulders or hung at their sides. Some of the -stations were frail buildings of wood, while others were of the adobe, -or sun-dried brick, the favorite construction material of Mexico and the -countries that once belonged to her. - -Fred was interested in the adobe, and learned on inquiry that its use is -a matter of great antiquity. The Mexican Indians made sun-dried bricks -long before Columbus discovered America, and it should be borne in mind -that some of the pyramids of Egypt, which have stood for thousands of -years, were of the same material. The bricks that the Egyptians -compelled the Israelites to make without straw were dried in the sun, -and therefore identical with the Mexican adobe. - -Fred asked his Irish-Mexican acquaintance how an adobe house was made, -and the gentleman kindly explained. - -[Illustration: A GROUP OF ADOBE HOUSES.] - -"An adobe house," said he, "costs very little, and it is warmer in -winter and cooler in summer than either wood or brick. It will last as -long as anybody can want it to. I know some adobe houses that are said -to be a hundred years old, and many that have stood twenty or thirty -years without any sign of decaying. - -"Adobe bricks are made of one-third clay-dust and two-thirds fine sand, -and it takes four men to form a brick-making team. One mixes the mass -with a little water so as to form it into a heavy mortar, two men carry -it in a hand-barrow to the place where the bricks are to be spread out -and dried, and the fourth man shapes the bricks in the mould. After -drying somewhat while flat on the ground, which has been previously -levelled and made smooth as a floor, the adobes are set up edgewise, -and stay so until the sun finishes them completely. They are laid in -mortar made from mud; and when a wall is two feet high, the work stops -for a week, to allow the mortar to be firmly set before putting more -pressure on it. When a week has passed, another height of two feet may -be laid, and so the work goes on until the building is finished. Then it -must wait a week before the roof is put on. You see, it takes time for -building an adobe house; but time is of no consequence in the land of -_mañana_." - -[Illustration: THE LAND OF MAÑANA.] - -"What is the meaning of mañana?" one of the youths asked. - -"It means 'to-morrow,'" was the reply; "and as you go through Mexico you -will hear the word in constant use. Ask a Mexican when he will do -anything--pay a bill, return the horse he borrowed, build a sheep-pen or -a corral for his cattle, get married, buy a new saddle, in fact do -anything that can be done--his answer is, 'Mañana.' Mexico is the land -of mañana, and the habit of procrastination is exasperating to a man of -any other nationality. You'll get used to it in time, but it takes a -long while to do so. It wouldn't be so bad if the man literally meant -what he said, and when to-morrow comes would do as he promised. The word -is used like the 'coming, sir' of the English waiter, or the '_tout de -suite_' of the French one, and means 'next week,' or 'next year,' or -more properly an indefinite time in the future." - -"There's another word, or rather two words, where the meaning is -identical with mañana, and the use the same. You'll hear them often in -Mexico, but more frequently in Central America and farther south." - -"What are they?" - -"_Poco tiempo_," was the reply; "the literal meaning is 'in a little -while,' but the practical usage is the same as that of mañana. Then -there's another lesson in language you may have gratis; ask a man any -question for which he does not know the answer, and his response will -be, '_Quien sabe?_' (who knows?). It is less exasperating than the other -words I've told you of, as it is simply a form of saying 'I don't -know.'" - -The youths made proper acknowledgment for the instruction they had -received, and took good care to remember it. - -The dreary plain ceased at length, and the mountains began to be -visible. About seventy-five miles from Laredo Frank's attention was -called to a _mesa_, or high table-land, a little beyond the station of -Lampasas. It is a mountain which spreads out flat like a table, and the -area on the top is said to be not far from 80,000 acres; its sides are -1400 feet high, and so nearly perpendicular that it is impossible to -ascend them, except in a few places. There is a path three miles long -leading to the summit; it is impassable for wheeled vehicles, and can -only be traversed by sure-footed quadrupeds or men. It is called the -_Meza de los Cartujanos_ (Carthusians), a tribe of Indians who probably -derived their name from a Benedictine monastery which was once -established there. The mesa is well watered, and its surface is divided -between forest and grass-land in such proportion as to make it an -excellent pasture. No fences are needed beyond a single gate at the top -of the path to keep the cattle from straying into the country below, -unless we include the division fences for the separation of herds. - -[Illustration: THE THRESHING-FLOOR.] - -From Lampasas to Monterey the country improved greatly, and for a -hundred miles or so the train wound through a valley where the scenery -was almost constantly picturesque, and the land showed signs of -agriculture and stock-raising. Near one of the stations the boys caught -sight of a threshing-floor, where horses were driven around in a circle -to tread out the grain with their hoofs. This is the primitive mode of -threshing, to which reference is made in the Bible; it is still in use -in various parts of southern Europe and also in Asia and northern -Africa. The American invasion of Mexico will doubtless introduce the -threshing-machine; in fact the machine has already been introduced, and -many of the raisers of wheat on a large scale have adopted it. - -In the cultivated districts many fruit-trees were seen, and Fred made -note of the fact that the orchards produced figs, pomegranates, lemons, -oranges, aguacates, and chirimoyas, in addition to most of the fruits of -the temperate zones. He learned that the State of Nuevo Leon, which they -were then traversing, produced tobacco, sugar, Indian-corn, wheat, -Mexican hemp, and similar things, and contained a million dollars' worth -of cattle and horses. It elevation is from 1000 to 2300 feet above the -level of the sea, and its climate ranks as temperate or semi-tropical. - -Lampasas is said to be a great resort for smugglers, who carry on a -regular business, with comparatively little disturbance by the -authorities. Probably the railway has interfered with them, and they can -hardly be expected to look upon it with a kindly eye. About thirty miles -beyond Lampasas is Bustamente, a town founded two hundred years ago by -the Spaniards as a frontier post against the Indians of the north, and -now the seat of a manufacturing interest that promises to increase. The -cloth of Bustamente has a high reputation throughout Mexico, and the -town contains a tribe of Indians descended from the Tlascalans, who -helped Cortez to conquer the Aztecs and make Guatemozin a prisoner. - -[Illustration: SADDLE MOUNTAIN, MONTEREY.] - -As the train approached Monterey, about four o'clock in the afternoon, a -mountain shaped like a saddle was pointed out on the left of the line. -"What do you suppose is the name of that mountain?" said the gentleman -who called attention to it, while the eyes of Frank and Fred were turned -in its direction. - -"I don't know, I'm sure," said Fred; "perhaps they named it for its -shape, and call it Saddle Mountain." - -"That's exactly what it is," was the reply; "it is called _La Silla_, or -The Saddle, and is a prominent landmark around Monterey." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE SIERRAS.] - -Then the gentleman pointed to a mountain on the right which he said was -called _Cerro de la Mitra_ (Mountain of the Mitre), from its resemblance -to the mitre worn by a bishop. Then between them, and farther away, he -pointed out the chain of the Sierras, and the youths realized that they -were in a region of mountains. - -The train wound through a cleft in the hills, and came to a halt at the -station of Monterey, a mile and a half from the city. It is proper to -remark that most of the towns and cities of Mexico require the railways -to stop outside the walls or limits, but for what especial reason, -unless to give occupation to the inhabitants in transporting passengers, -baggage, and freight, our young friends were unable to ascertain. The -custom is Spanish as well as Mexican, as the traveller in Spain will -vividly remember. - -There is a good supply of cabs and omnibuses at the station, and there -is a horse-railway connecting the city and the railway-station, so that -travellers have a choice of conveyances. The horse-railway was built by -an American, who obtained a concession from the Government and thought -he was making a wonderfully profitable investment. But the local -authorities hampered him with many restrictions; they compelled him to -carry a policeman on every car, and the policeman generally took the -side of those who did not pay their fare. It was fashionable to ride in -the cars, but not fashionable to pay, or, at any rate, it was optional -to pay or not. - -A good many foreigners who have settled in Mexico complain that their -enterprises are seriously interfered with by the authorities, national, -State, and local. Every town and village, according to the old Spanish -law and custom, has the right to levy tolls or taxes on everything that -passes through it, and on all business conducted within its limits. Then -the State or district can levy a tax, and the national government comes -in for a levy of its own in addition. The result is that every -enterprise is liable to be "taxed to death," and many a man who has -carried money to Mexico to engage in what promised to be a profitable -business has left it behind him in the hands of the various authorities. -Taxes, forced loans, and various expenses that can never be foreseen -swallow up all the profits and altogether too often the original -investment. Very few silver-mines in Mexico pay dividends to their -stockholders, and the few that are worth owning have no stock for sale. -The American saying that "it takes a gold-mine to work a silver-mine" -is as true of Mexico as of any other country. - -Our friends went to the Hotel Hidalgo, and found it endurable; it had -been recommended by one of their fellow-passengers on the train, who -showed his good faith in his recommendation by accompanying them -thither. Immediately after securing rooms and completing arrangements -for their stay, the party started for a drive around the city, which -boasts an age of more than three hundred years, having been founded in -1560, though it did not receive its present name until 1596. - -Monterey means "king mountain," or "mountain of the king," and the name -of the city was given in honor of Don Gaspar de Zuñiga, Conde de -Monterey, who was Viceroy of Mexico in 1596. The name given to the -settlement in 1560 was Santa Lucia; a little stream which crosses the -city from west to east preserves the original appellation, but -comparatively few of the inhabitants are aware of its origin. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -THE AMERICAN INVASION OF TO-DAY.--MONTEREY AS A HEALTH RESORT; ITS SITE -AND SURROUNDINGS.--THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--CAPTURE OF -MONTEREY BY GENERAL TAYLOR.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR.--FROM -CORPUS CHRISTI TO MONTEREY.--THE ATTACK ON THE CITY.--CAPTURE OF THE -FORTS AND THE BISHOP'S PALACE.--FRANK RECITES A POEM.--LIEUT. U. S. -GRANT AND WHAT HE DID AT MONTEREY.--A STORY ABOUT JEFFERSON DAVIS.--HOW -JOHN PHENIX ESCAPED CASHIERING--SIGHTS OF THE CITY.--THE MARKET-PLACE -AND WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--FRUITS, BIRDS, POTTERY, ETC.--IN A MONTEREY -HOUSE.--A PALATIAL RESIDENCE. - - -[Illustration: VIEW OF MONTEREY.] - -The first opportunity to see a Mexican city was afforded to our friends -at Monterey, and they fully enjoyed it. Every walk along the streets and -every drive in the city and its vicinity was full of interest, and there -was little that escaped their observation. Being the most northern city -of Mexico, Monterey has been much invaded by Americans during the last -decade, and many citizens of the United States are established there in -various lines of business. - -The city has been extensively advertised as a health resort, and -considerable numbers of invalids have gone there; a fair proportion of -them have breathed their last in Monterey or its neighborhood, but the -same may be said of many other health resorts in different parts of the -world. For the present, invalids would do well to think twice before -going to Monterey or any other part of Mexico in the hope of recovering -their health, as the accommodations for them are hardly such as they -require. A Mexican hotel may do well enough for a vigorous man, but it -is ill-suited to one who should be shielded from draughts, needs to sit -in front of a comfortable fire, and has a dread of damp walls and -similar adversities. The cooking is suited to robust stomachs rather -than to delicate ones, and the attendance leaves much to be desired. - -[Illustration: THE PLAZA DE ZARAGOZA.] - -Monterey is built in a plain surrounded by mountains, and the ground on -which it stands is somewhat broken or undulating in places. It has a -population of about forty thousand, and is said to be increasing every -year, in consequence of the impulse which the opening of the railway has -given it. Our friends visited the Ojo de Agua, a great spring that opens -in the centre of the city, and furnishes a copious supply of water; then -they went to the Plaza Mayor, a pretty garden, with an interesting -fountain in its centre; then to the Plaza de Zaragoza; and then to the -cathedral, which looks upon it, and has the Church of San Francisco as a -near neighbor. The church is the oldest religious edifice in the city. -It is said to have been founded in 1560, and though there is some -obscurity about the exact date, it is pretty certain to owe its -beginning to the sixteenth century. But of the old structure only the -foundations remain, the present building having been erected about 1730, -and it has undergone alterations at various periods since that time. - -[Illustration: GENERAL TAYLOR'S ATTACK ON MONTEREY, SEPTEMBER 21, 1846.] - -The cathedral is quite modern. It was dedicated in 1833, and at the time -of its dedication had been about thirty years in process of erection. -The walls are very thick, and its constructors must have possessed the -gift of foresight, and had in mind its possible uses for war purposes, -as it was converted into a powder-magazine at the time of General -Taylor's attack in 1846. Shot and shell fell thickly around it, but the -massive walls preserved it from destruction or serious injury, and saved -its contents from being blown up. The original site selected for the -cathedral was at the north of the city, and work was begun upon it, but -the place was abandoned for the present one. A fort was erected on the -abandoned site, and it was one of the chief obstacles to the capture of -the city by the Americans. - -Frank and Fred were especially interested in the war history of -Monterey; and as soon as the inspection of the Plaza Mayor and the -edifices around it had been completed, they asked to be taken to the -scene of the fighting between the American and Mexican armies. Their -guide took them first to the bridge of the Purisima, in the -north-eastern quarter of the city, where there was a sharp battle, in -which the Mexicans successfully resisted the Americans, and then to the -old citadel--the fort already mentioned. It is now in a ruinous -condition, and is generally spoken of as "the Black Fort." - -On the way to the citadel, Doctor Bronson tested the knowledge of the -youths concerning the events which made Monterey's name so well known in -the United States. In reply to his questions, Frank and Fred alternated -with each other in telling the following, Frank being the first to -speak: - -"General Taylor's army landed at Corpus Christi, in Texas, and marched -from there to Matamoras, on the Rio Grande, early in 1846. Before -crossing the Rio Grande they fought two battles--that of Palo Alto on -the 8th of May, and the battle of Resaca de la Palma on the following -day. General Taylor defeated the Mexicans in both battles, though his -army was much smaller than theirs, the Mexicans having about 6000 men -and the Americans 3000. After capturing Matamoras he advanced into -northern Mexico. On the Rio Grande he had been joined by a reinforcement -of troops, and when he came in front of Monterey he had between six and -seven thousand men." - -"Yes," said Fred, "the historians say he had 6645 officers and men -altogether, and that the Mexican army at Monterey under General Ampudia -contained fully 10,000 men." - -[Illustration: THE BISHOP'S PALACE.] - -"You have evidently been studying the History of the Mexican War very -carefully," the Doctor remarked, as the youths paused. - -"We've tried to, certainly," responded Fred, "as we believe we ought to -know what the relations have been between this country and ours, in -order to understand intelligently what we see. If we study to-day the -peaceful invasion of Mexico, we ought to know about the warlike one." - -Doctor Bronson nodded assent to this view, and the story of the war was -resumed. - -[Illustration] - -"General Taylor came in sight of Monterey on September 20th," said -Frank, "and immediately rode forward till he was within range of one of -the forts. A cannon was fired upon the group of officers that surrounded -the general, and immediately the army was ordered to advance and form a -camp opposite the city, but far enough away from the forts to be out of -range of the cannon. - -"The battle began the next morning, the 21st, the city being attacked on -the west by a division commanded by General Worth, whose monument stands -in front of Madison Square, in New York, and on the west by the rest of -the army under General Taylor. The Americans had no artillery heavier -than six-pounders, while the Mexicans had their forts filled with large -cannon; and they had a strong force of cavalry, while the Americans had -a very small one. The forts were attacked first, and one after the other -they were taken, till the only remaining one outside the city was the -Bishop's Palace, as it was called, though it was really a fort, as we -shall see when we get to it. - -"Partly by means of a cannon that was dragged up a hill which commanded -the Bishop's Palace, and partly by an attack of the infantry, the place -was captured, and our flag was over all the heights that overlooked the -city. It had taken two days to accomplish this, and a great many of our -soldiers had fallen, but the army had no idea of giving up the attack; -and when they had possession of the heights, they felt as sure of the -victory as though it was already won. - -"On the morning of the 23d of September, the third day of the battle, a -fire was opened on the city from the Bishop's Palace on the west, and -from two forts on the east, and at the same time the troops on each side -of the city began to force their way inside towards the Gran Plaza, in -the centre. The Mexicans fought desperately, and swept the streets with -such a fire of musketry that our men had to take shelter in the houses -and cut their way from house to house towards the Gran Plaza. It was -slow work, and when night came the troops had still two blocks to cut -through before getting to the plaza. They were getting ready for work -early the next morning when a flag of truce came from General Ampudia, -and the city was surrendered." - -"What was the loss of the Americans in the battle?" queried Doctor -Bronson, as Frank paused. - -"They lost 158 killed, and 368 wounded," answered Fred, "and the Mexican -loss was said to be fully one thousand." - -"And to what was the disparity of the losses attributed?" - -"It was thought," said Fred, "at least so I read in the account -published at that time, that the Western and South-western men who -fought under General Taylor were better marksmen than the Mexicans. The -Texas riflemen in particular were famous for their skill in shooting, -and their weapons were better than those of their enemies." - -"You've made a very good short history of the capture of Monterey," said -the Doctor, "and must write it down for the benefit of your friends at -home." - -The youths followed this bit of practical advice, and we are permitted -to publish their story. - -By the time the talk about the war was ended the party had reached the -citadel, which they visited with interest, and then proceeded to the -Bishop's Palace, now occupied as a military barrack, and in a bad state -of repair. While they stood looking down upon the city and the grassy -and bushy slope of the hill, Frank recited the following piece of verse, -which was written by Charles Fenno Hoffman shortly after the stirring -events commemorated in the lines: - - "We were not many--we who stood - Before the iron sleet that day; - Yet many a gallant spirit would - Give half his years, if he but could - Have been with us at Monterey. - - "Now here, now there, the shot it hailed - In deadly drifts of fiery spray; - Yet not a single soldier quailed - When wounded comrades round them wailed - Their dying shouts at Monterey. - - "And on, still on, our columns kept, - Through walls of flame, its withering way; - Where fell the dead, the living stept, - Still charging on the guns that swept - The slippery streets of Monterey. - - "The foe himself recoiled aghast - When, striking where he strongest lay. - We swooped his flanking batteries past, - And, braving full their murderous blast, - Stormed home the towers of Monterey. - - "Our banners on those turrets wave, - And there our evening bugles play, - Where orange-boughs above their grave - Keep green the memory of the brave - Who fought and fell at Monterey. - - "We were not many--we who pressed - Beside the brave who fell that day; - But who of us hath not confessed - He'd rather share their warrior rest - Than not have been at Monterey?" - -"There is one thing we must mention in our account of the battle," said -Fred, as they were returning from the Bishop's Palace to the city. - -"What is that?" Frank asked. - -"Why, we must say that there was a young officer here named U. S. Grant; -he was a second lieutenant of the Fourth Infantry, and was one of those -who charged up the side of the hill to the Bishop's Palace. He -afterwards became General Grant, whom all the world knows of, and whose -name will be remembered in America for all time." - -"I didn't think of that when I was talking about the battle," Frank -answered, "but I remember it all now. And I have read in one of the -books on Mexico that he was offered promotion for his conduct in the -battle, but declined it because another man was promoted at the same -time. In declining the offer he said, 'If Lieutenant ---- deserves -promotion I do not.'" - -[Illustration: OFFICERS' UNIFORMS IN 1860.] - -"And there's another thing that needs explanation," continued the youth, -"and that is the uniform of the officers and soldiers of our army in the -pictures of the battles in Mexico. It is quite unlike the uniform worn -in the Civil War fifteen years later, and now in use." - -"I will explain that," said the Doctor, and he did so in these words: - -"After peace had been declared and our army returned from Mexico, the -War Department realized that there were certain features of the uniform -and equipment of the men that might be changed to advantage. No action -was taken in the matter until Jefferson Davis was Secretary of War, -between 1853 and 1857; and I will here remark that Jefferson Davis -commanded a regiment of Mississippi Volunteers during the Mexican War, -and fought in this very battle of Monterey we have just been talking -about. Well, Mr. Davis sent a circular letter to the officers of the -army, stating that changes were contemplated, and asking for suggestions -from them, and the inducement was held out that those who suggested -changes which were adopted would be liberally compensated. - -"One of the circulars was received by Lieut. George H. Derby, who -afterwards obtained considerable literary reputation as 'John Phenix.' -Derby was a born humorist, and generally saw the ludicrous side of a -subject before anything else. In a short time after receiving the -circular he sent a variety of suggestions to the Department which were -very funny, to say the least. - -"He designed a hat which, in addition to covering the head, could be -used as a camp-kettle, a water-bucket, and a feed-bag for a horse, and -with the design for the article, which was to be made of sheet-iron, -there was a picture representing it applied to each of its proposed -uses. - -"Instead of the shoulder cross-belts, he proposed that the soldier -should have a leather belt around his waist, and to this belt should be -attached a stout hook with a shank six inches long, and the point of the -hook standing outward from the man's back. On this hook the soldier -could hang his knapsack or equipments when on the march. He could be -harnessed by means of it so as to drag a wagon or a cannon; and in an -assault on a fortress he could be made to drag a scaling-ladder up the -walls by means of this hook. Derby also proposed that the officers -should be provided with poles like rake-handles, ten or twelve feet -long, with rings at one end, and if a soldier should try to run away in -battle he could be dragged back to duty by means of the hook. - -"Derby was skilful with the pencil, and he sent a sketch of a -battle-field in which the various uses of the hook were depicted. To say -that Jefferson Davis was angry when he read the letter is to put the -case mildly; he turned red and blue with rage, and took the document to -a cabinet meeting that was being held on the afternoon of the day he -received Derby's communication. The members of the cabinet laughed over -the suggestions and pictures, and when Davis declared he would have -Derby cashiered for disrespect to the Secretary of War, they advised him -to say nothing. 'If the story gets out,' said one of them, 'you'll be -the laughingstock of the country from one end to the other, and will -never hear the end of it. And, besides, there's some originality about -the man, and he may yet send something that will be really useful.' - -[Illustration: MOUNTAIN SCENE NEAR MONTEREY.] - -"Mr. Davis cooled down, and the story didn't come out until years -afterwards. The result of the recommendations of various officers of the -army was that the old 'bellows-top' cap disappeared, and so did other -features of the soldier's uniform and equipment. That is why the picture -of the battle of Monterey is so unlike that of any of the battles of the -Civil War, so far as the uniforms of officers and men are concerned." - -The youths had a hearty laugh over the story of Lieutenant Derby's -suggestions. Frank thought they were too good to be lost, and he decided -to write them down at the first opportunity. - -[Illustration: THE ALAMEDA, MONTEREY.] - -On their return to the city the party visited the Alameda, which forms -a very pretty promenade and is well shaded with trees, though Frank -thought it appeared in rather a neglected condition. Then they drove to -the hot springs at Topo Chico, about three miles out from the city in a -northerly direction, and indulged in the luxury of a hot bath in natural -water. The manager of the establishment said that the baths had a -temperature of 106 degrees Fahrenheit, and possessed a high reputation -for curing nervous, rheumatic, and other diseases. The arrangements for -bathing were formerly very poor, but a new bath-house was erected in -1887, and resulted in a great increase of patronage. - -Of course a visit was paid to the market-place, and the novelties of the -spot received due attention. The most interesting features were the -fruit and flower markets. Doctor Bronson told the youths that the -Indians of Mexico had a passionate fondness for flowers long before the -arrival of their Spanish conquerors, and it continues to the present -time. There was a fine display of flowers, and the prices were so low -that Frank and Fred regretted that they did not know some fair ones to -whom they could send baskets and bouquets. Determined to do something by -way of patronizing the flower-sellers, they bought a quantity of flowers -and sent them to a hospital which their guide pointed out. "They may -serve to cheer some poor invalid," said Frank, "and the market is so -attractive that I want to encourage the trade." - -The semi-tropical character of Monterey was shown by the fruits, which -seemed to comprise the principal products of two zones, the tropical -and the temperate. There were all the fruits named in the last chapter -as growing in the region near Lampasas, together with three or four -others. Monterey is situated 1800 feet above the level of the sea, so -that it is cooler than other places in the same latitude but at a lower -elevation. Some of the fruits sold in the market of the city were not -grown in the immediate neighborhood, but in the lower regions to the -eastward. - -Fred called Frank's attention to the bird-sellers with their wares in -large wooden cages, evidently of home construction. The canary seems to -have spread pretty well over the world; his singing powers have made him -welcome everywhere he goes, and our young friends were not at all -surprised to find him in the market of Monterey. Several other varieties -of singing-birds were displayed, and the prices which were asked for -them seemed very low; but the Doctor whispered to the youths that if -they bought anything in the market they should not offer more than a -quarter of what was demanded, and gradually advance their figures to a -half or possibly three-fourths. In a country where time is of no value -everybody who has anything to sell expects to haggle about the price. - -[Illustration: NATIVE POTTERY.] - -Some of the pottery in the market was so good that the boys consulted -Doctor Bronson as to the advisability of sending home a few specimens -of it. The Doctor checked their enthusiasm by reminding them that they -were just then at the beginning of their journey, and it would be -prudent to delay purchases until reaching the capital. A few jars and -pots were selected and bargained for, more by way of practice in the -language and customs than for any other purpose, and they were left with -an American merchant, who undertook to ship them to New York. They were -all of Indian workmanship, the best having come, so the dealer said, -from Guadalajara. Mexican pottery deserves a higher rank among ceramics -than it has hitherto enjoyed, and some of the handiwork of the -descendants of the Aztecs would be worthy of admiration in any -collection. - -[Illustration: A SCENE IN THE MARKET.] - -There were scores and scores of patient mules standing with drooping -ears and waiting for their burdens to be removed. They were laden with -everything that an inhabitant of Monterey could want to buy--milk, -vegetables, fruits, fuel, hides, sugar, beans, wheat, iron-work, in fact -anything and everything that has a place in a market. Donkeys are the -beasts of burden at Monterey, and almost in the same category belong the -_cargadores_, or porters, who are licensed and numbered exactly like -cabs or drays in an American city. These men are identical with the -Turkish _hamals_; they carry heavy burdens with apparent ease, and it is -no uncommon sight to see one of them slowly creeping along with a piano, -an iron safe, or a barrel of wine on his back, or a lighter burden on -his head in the same way that the negro carries it. A gentleman who was -stopping at the hotel said he had known a cargador to transport a safe -weighing six hundred pounds without any apparent suffering a distance of -half a mile without stopping to rest. - -But the donkeys and cargadores do not have a monopoly of the local -carrying trade, as there are great numbers of carts drawn by oxen, that -have come in from the country with loads of produce seeking a market. -These carts are of rude construction, and their axles are rarely, if -ever, greased. They creak and groan in a manner that falls unpleasantly -on the ear and often suggests that the vehicles are animated beings -suffering beneath their burdens and endeavoring to make their grief -known. And this reminds us of something which Fred remarked to Frank -when the latter was wondering how the Mexicans could endure such a -continued complaint of the axles of their carts. - -[Illustration: A COURT-YARD IN MONTEREY.] - -"I've been thinking of the same thing," was the reply, "especially as -the Mexicans are opprobriously termed 'greasers' by the people of Texas -and the South-west generally. It's a sort of _lucus à non lucendo_, that -appellation of greaser, at least so far as their cart-axles are -concerned." - -[Illustration: A WINDOW IN MONTEREY.] - -After seeing the market, they strolled along some of the narrow streets, -which appeared gloomy enough, with their long stretches of masonry, -broken only here and there with a grated window or a balcony which -seemed to be a part of a prison, so heavily was it barred with iron. -Some of the larger and finer buildings have handsome windows, whose -design was evidently brought from Old Spain, and in turn obtained from -the Moors. Our friends were invited to a house which had formerly -belonged to one of the wealthy Spanish residents, but is now the -property of an American merchant. Fred thus describes it: - -"Like all the better class of houses in Monterey, this one is built in -the form of a hollow square. This style of architecture was brought from -Spain by the conquerors of the country, and it reminded us of houses in -Damascus and other cities of the Oriental world. The square encloses a -_patio_, or court-yard, and the rooms of the lower story open on the -patio; there is a colonnade surrounding the yard, and it is freely -ornamented with tropical plants and flowers, so that you seem at first -glance to have entered a conservatory. Vines climb around most of the -columns of the colonnade, and in the centre is a well in which hangs, -not the 'old oaken bucket' made famous in song, but an equally -substantial bucket of leather. The water drawn from the well is cool -and sweet, and from the length of the rope it is evident that the -excavation goes down to a great depth. Monterey is abundantly supplied -with water, and in this respect as well as in the appearance of some of -the interiors of the houses, it is entitled to be called the Damascus of -Mexico. - -"There is one house in Monterey, the residence of Don Patricio Milmo, -which has a double-arched court-yard and gallery, and is most liberally -supplied with plants and flowers, among which a botanist would enjoy -himself for many hours, and an ordinary mortal with no scientific -knowledge need not be far behind him. There are some very pretty marbles -in the neighborhood of Monterey, and they have been liberally used in -the ornamentation of this and other houses. Don Patricio is a wealthy -banker, and the owner of an immense area of land in Nuevo Leon, -including much of the building-ground in and around Monterey." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF SIERRAS FROM BISHOP'S PALACE.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -SOUTHWARD TO SALTILLO.--SANTA CATERINA.--REMARKABLE CAVES.--SCENERY OF -THE SIERRA MADRE.--WAY-SIDE ATTRACTIONS.--THE CACTUS; ITS FLOWERS AND -MANY VARIETIES.--SALTILLO.--THE ALAMEDA.--MEXICAN CURRENCY.--THE -BATTLE-FIELD OF BUENA VISTA.--BY CARRIAGE AND SADDLE.--A NIGHT AT A -HACIENDA.--MEXICAN COOKERY.--TORTILLAS, PUCHERO, FRIJOLES, TAMALES, AND -OTHER EDIBLES.--HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR FROM MONTEREY TO BUENA -VISTA.--5,000 AMERICANS DEFEAT 20,000 MEXICANS.--DESCRIPTION OF THE -FIELD.--COTTON FACTORY AT SALTILLO.--COTTON MANUFACTURES IN MEXICO. - - -On resuming their journey through Mexico, Doctor Bronson and his young -companions proceeded by the railway southward to Saltillo, sixty-seven -miles from Monterey. - -[Illustration: SANTA CATERINA, NEAR MONTEREY.] - -As they passed Santa Caterina, eight or ten miles beyond Monterey, one -of their fellow-passengers told them that there were some interesting -caves not very far from the station, and also near Garcia, thirteen -miles farther on. A remarkable hole in the mountain near Santa Caterina -was pointed out by the same gentleman, but in spite of his voluble -account of the attractive features of a journey there, they did not -consent to stop for the excursion. They also decided to allow the caves -of Garcia to take care of themselves, much to the disappointment of -their informant. - -The beauty of the scenery along the railway, almost from the very moment -of leaving Monterey, kept their eyes busy on both sides of the train. -The railway for some distance follows the San Juan Valley, which -diminishes in width as it ascends. The labored puffing of the locomotive -told that the grade was a steep one, and it was evident that the engine -was exerting all its powers. On most trains two locomotives are -required, and an extra one is always added unless the number of -carriages is small and their cargoes are light. - -The scenery of the Sierra Madre is remarkably fine, and surpassed by -that of very few railway routes in the world. Frank compared it to that -of the Brenner or Semmering passes of the Alps, and Fred said he was -reminded of the Blue Mountains in Australia, and the route traversed by -the railway between Colombo and Kandy, in Ceylon. But they agreed that -it differed in some respects from all these routes, and had a beauty -and grandeur of its own, just as did each of the places they had -mentioned. On each side of the valley the mountains rose very steeply, -and in many places they were nearly, if not quite, perpendicular. The -rocks were of various shades, in which red had a prominent place, and on -the steepest part of the slopes there was no place where vegetation -could cling. - -The best of the scenery was in the neighborhood of Garcia; beyond that -point it became less grand, as the mountains were farther away in the -widening valley, and the steep cliffs were less numerous. But the -ascent was steady, and brought the train to the plateau and to a much -higher elevation than that of Monterey. Monterey, as before stated, is -1800 feet above sea-level; Saltillo is at an elevation of 5200 feet, and -consequently the railway ascends 3400 feet in passing from the former to -the latter city. - -The old route of the diligence before the railway was built afforded an -exciting ride from San Gregario to Rinconada, as the descent was very -rapid and the coach went down the incline with great rapidity. At one -turn in the road there was a point where a misstep would have sent the -whole conveyance down a precipitous slope of a thousand feet into the -valley below. A thoughtful American who travelled that route years ago -regarded the possibilities of such a slide, and estimated that the -diligence, passengers and all, would be worth not more than nineteen -cents a bushel after making the descent into the yawning gulf. - -[Illustration: THE ORGAN CACTUS.] - -Frank and Fred wished they could gather some of the bright -cactus-flowers which abounded along the route. There are many varieties -of cactus in Mexico; in fact the country may be said to be the land of -the cacti. Botanists have described more than sixty species; they vary -in height and size from the little plant hardly larger than a spray of -clover up to the gigantic growths that rise more than thirty feet above -the ground. The flowers run from pure white to a deep scarlet and -purple, and some of the flowers are of great beauty. A peculiarity of -the cactus is that it thrives best in poor soils, and on a great part of -the ground where it grows few other vegetable products could maintain an -existence. The largest of the cactus family is scientifically known as -the _Candelabrum_, but the Mexicans call it the _Organo_, or organ; it -grows in straight hexagonal columns, and when many of these columns are -clustered together it bears quite a resemblance to a church organ with -its pipes. One variety of cactus nourishes the cochineal insect; another -is used for hedges, and owing to the sharp spines for which the plant is -noted, it forms an impervious barrier to man or quadruped. The cactus -generally has inside its flower a mass of edible substance, and in some -localities this cactus-fruit is collected and sold in the markets. - -[Illustration: VARIETIES OF CACTUS.] - -The cactus plant is not wholly inedible, as the donkeys of Mexico feed -on some of them, and the goat will also make a meal of the leaves and -stalks. But this is not to be wondered at when it is borne in mind that -the goat is popularly credited with dining upon tomato-cans, scraps of -tin, old boots, newspapers, umbrellas, and other articles not ordinarily -included among esculents. Of late years the cactus has been found useful -for paper-making, and thousands of tons of it are annually converted -into paper fibre. - -A little past eight o'clock in the evening the train rolled into -Saltillo, a city containing from fifteen to twenty thousand inhabitants, -the capital of the State of Cohahuila, and for some years the terminus -of the National Railway. There are several cotton factories at Saltillo -or in its immediate vicinity, and the place boasts of its serapes. -Evidently the boast is justified, as the serapes of Saltillo have a -reputation all through northern Mexico. Our friends improved the -opportunity to provide themselves with these needed articles of Mexican -travel, and through the rest of their journey they carried their -souvenirs of Saltillo and were well satisfied with them. - -They had been advised to go to the Hotel Tomasichi, but with the -condition that they must not expect anything remarkable in the way of a -hotel. The Doctor secured a carriage which was so rickety that it -threatened dissolution before reaching the Plaza Mayor, where the hotel -is situated, but by good-fortune it held together and landed them -safely. The proprietor of the hotel told them that there was only one -good carriage in the city, and if they wanted it for the next day it -would be well to order it at once. It belonged to Señor Sada, the owner -of the diligence that would take them to Jaral, where it connected with -the trains on the International Railway. The advice was taken, and the -one good carriage of Saltillo was ordered for the next day's driving in -and around the city. Six reals, or seventy-five cents, an hour was the -price of the vehicle, with a _gratification_ to the driver. - -[Illustration: IN THE SAN JUAN VALLEY.] - -By this time Frank and Fred were able to make all their financial -calculations in the currency of the country. Here is the list of values -which they had noted down and committed to memory: - -"The peso, or dollar, is divided into eight reals or reales, of the -value of 12-1/2 cents each. A medio real is 6-1/4 cents, a cuartillo is -3 cents, and a tlaco is 1-1/2 cents; 2 reals make a peseta (25 cents), -and 4 reals a toston (50 cents). Values are reckoned in centavos (100 -centavos make 1 peso), reals, or pesos until large sums are reached, -when they are counted in gold. Of gold coins there are the escudito de -oro, $1; escudo de oro, $2; pistola, $4; media onza de oro, $8; and onza -de oro (gold ounce), $16." - -American currency can be used without difficulty in the large cities, -but not elsewhere. Notes of the Banco National and the Bank of London, -Mexico, and South America can be carried in place of silver, which is -inconveniently heavy; but our friends were advised not to rely upon -bank-notes of any kind away from the lines of railway. - -[Illustration: A SOLID CITIZEN.] - -Doctor Bronson told the youths that a metric system of coinage was -established some years ago, but the common people were prejudiced -against it, and it had made comparatively little progress. Half and -quarter dollars are never spoken of as fifty and twenty-five centavos, -but as quatro reals or dos reals. - -We will return to Saltillo, where we left our friends while we made an -excursion among Mexican currency values. Their supper was a composite of -Mexican and Italian cookery, Tomasichi being an Italian and his cook a -native of Mexico. The chief had instructed the subordinate in the ways -of the kitchens of Rome and Naples, but not sufficiently to drive out -the ideas of the land of the Aztecs. Stimulated by curiosity and also by -a good appetite, the Doctor and his nephews made an excellent meal, or -at least it was good enough to make them wish to taste a dinner entirely -Mexican in character. We will see later on how they succeeded in their -experiment. - -The next morning they started in good season to inspect the city and its -surroundings. They found the Alameda much prettier than that of -Monterey, and some travellers have pronounced it the most attractive one -to be found in Mexico. The inhabitants are deservedly proud of it. It is -a popular resort at all hours, and especially in the evening, when -everybody goes out for a promenade. The Plaza Mayor is also an -attractive spot, and the youths wished to make a sketch of it from the -side opposite the cathedral, but decided not to take the time to do so, -as a photograph would answer their purpose. - -The general features of Saltillo are much like those of Monterey, and -consequently a detailed description of them is unnecessary. - -Before starting on the round of sight-seeing, Doctor Bronson made -inquiries concerning a visit to the battle-field of Buena Vista, which -is some ten miles south of Saltillo. The inquiries resulted in an -arrangement to see the spot made famous in the history of the Mexican -War, where 5000 Americans put 20,000 Mexicans to flight. - -The battle-field lies two or three miles south of the hacienda of Buena -Vista, and the road from Saltillo rises nearly a thousand feet before -reaching that place; consequently a journey thither must be done at a -slow pace, and it was decided to take two days, or rather a night and -part of two days, for the excursion. - -[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO BUENA VISTA.] - -Early in the afternoon the party started from Saltillo for the hacienda -of Buena Vista, which they reached before nightfall. The youths were -happy at the prospect of passing a night in a hacienda, and obtaining a -glimpse of rural Mexican life. - -[Illustration: A SERVANT AT THE HACIENDA.] - -The building where they were received was in the form of a hollow -square, like the houses of Monterey, already described. The entrance was -sufficiently broad to permit the admission of vehicles, and the carriage -was driven inside before the travellers alighted. According to Mexican -custom, a _mozo_, or servant, had been sent in advance to give notice of -the advent of the strangers and have the house in readiness. The -visitors were shown to rooms on the lower floor; the Doctor was assigned -to a room by himself, while the boys were lodged together in a large -room very meagrely furnished. The beds were straw-filled mattresses, -laid upon strips of rawhide stretched tightly across a frame, and the -boys pronounced it an excellent substitute for some of the "patent -spring mattresses" which are sold in American cities. The linen was -scrupulously clean, which is not always the case in Mexico, but the -supply of blankets was so light that it was evident the travellers were -expected to make use of their serapes to keep off the chill of the night -air. - -They did not stay long inside the room, as they were anxious to see the -surroundings of the place. So they wandered about, their first visit -being to the stable, which they found commodious enough for the most -fastidious horse in the world. "I have heard," said Fred, "that the -people of this country are more particular about their horses than about -themselves; a Mexican will take good care of his horse, but leave his -wife and children to go hungry and half clothed." - -"To judge by the difference between the rooms of the hacienda and the -stable," responded Frank, "the statement seems to be well founded. The -stable is certainly better ventilated, and the horses have no reason to -complain of their quarters. A Mexican depends so much on his horse that -he ought from very selfishness to be very careful of him." - -[Illustration: NEAR THE KITCHEN.] - -From the stable they wandered to the kitchen, where three or four native -women were at work preparing the meal which the strangers were to eat. - -The first thing to attract Frank's attention was a woman kneeling on the -floor over a flat stone raised at one end, on which she was rolling some -dough into very thin sheets. "That must be a tortilla-maker," said -Frank; "we have had tortillas several times since we came into the -country, but this is the first good chance I've had to see them made." - -From his observation at this kitchen, and from subsequent information, -the youth made the following note: - -[Illustration: MAKING TORTILLAS.] - -"Tortillas, or cakes, are made from corn-meal, which is ground by hand -on a flat stone called a _metate_, a word of Aztec origin. The corn is -soaked in lime-water till the hull can be separated from it, and then it -is pounded and rolled upon the metate until it is ground into meal. In -this work the woman uses a cylinder of stone something like the American -rolling-pin, or very often she uses a flat or slightly rounded stone, -with which she pounds and twists for hours. When the meal is -sufficiently ground a little water is added, and it is worked into -dough; the dough is then rolled or patted in the hand until it is almost -as thin as a knife-blade and formed into circular cakes. The cakes are -baked on an iron _comal_, or griddle, which has been previously held -over the fire until it is so hot that the cooking is done in a few -moments. They are not allowed to brown, and are best when served hot. -They are generally without salt or other seasoning, and are very -tasteless at first to a stranger; but after one has become accustomed to -tortillas he prefers them to any other kind of corn-cake." - -The equipment of the kitchen was exceedingly simple, and the youths -wondered how a French cook would get along with none but Mexican -utensils to get up a meal with. The stove, or cooking range, consisted -simply of a wall or bank of solid adobe about two feet high, and of the -same width; this bank was built up against one side of the kitchen, -which was ten or twelve feet square, and it extended the whole length of -that side. There were depressions in the bank, in which small fires of -charcoal or wood were burning; on these fires the pots, pans, and -griddles were placed, and the process of cooking went on. There was no -chimney, the smoke escaping, or being supposed to escape, through an -opening in the roof directly over the cooking range. - -[Illustration: A PRIMITIVE KITCHEN.] - -But the kitchen of the common people is less elaborate than this. It -consists simply of a mound of clay, perhaps a foot in height and a yard -in diameter, and depressed in the centre. Little fires in this -depression furnish the heat for cooking the food placed in the pots and -kettles, which are of common unglazed earthen-ware. The cook sits or -squats on the floor close by this primitive range, while the mistress of -the kitchen previously described stands, and can walk about at will -without the trouble of rising. - -In some parts of Mexico the cooking is done out-of-doors. This is -particularly the case in the southern portion, and in the season of -rains the weather often reduces culinary operations to a very limited -quantity. The more rain the less dinner, unless the food is eaten raw; -but as it consists largely of fruits, the inconvenience is less serious -than it might be otherwise. - -When our young friends went to dinner they found a repast that was -entirely Mexican in character. After it was over they made notes of what -they had seen and eaten, and this was the result: - -"We had tortillas, of course, and very good they were. The dinner began -with a soup, which was so good that we asked how it was made, as we -thought it might be tried by some of our cooks at home. Here is what -they told us: - -"'We start this soup with a chicken broth just as chicken broth is made -anywhere else. Then we take the meat of the chicken, the white part -only, after it has been boiled very tender, and pick it into little bits -of shreds. We take some pounded almonds, the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, -a little bread which has been soaked in milk, a little spice of some -kind, and plenty of pepper, and we mix the whole up together till it -forms a hard paste. We make this paste into little balls and drop them -into the soup when it is boiling hot and just before it is brought to -the table.' - -"If you want a good soup and a new one just try this. You may not hit -the seasoning the first time, but when you do you'll find you've -something worth eating. - -"After the soup we had a _puchero_, which is said to be a very popular -dish with the Mexicans, but we were not particularly fond of it. They -begin it by boiling mutton to make a broth, and then they throw in every -sort of garden vegetable cut in small pieces--apples, pears, squashes, -tomatoes, green corn, onions, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, red or green -peppers, in fact any and everything from the garden that is edible. -There is so much pepper in the mess that it burns your mouth like an -East Indian curry, but it is said to be good for the stomach and -climate. They tell us we'll like it after a while; and perhaps we shall, -but we certainly don't now. It's a good deal like the down East stew, -with the addition of the hashed peppers and tree-fruits. - -"Next we had a _tamal de casuella_, which was translated into 'corn-meal -pot-pie.' As nearly as we could make out, it is made by putting a -mixture of scalded meal, flour, eggs, and melted lard into a broth in -which chicken and pork have been boiled, so as to make a thin paste. -Then make a mixture of the boiled pork and chicken hashed reasonably -fine, along with red peppers and tomatoes, and cook them in lard. Next -you spread the paste on the bottom and sides of a dish that has been -well greased so as to prevent sticking, lay in your meat mixture, cover -with more of the paste, and bake it gently but thoroughly. For a hungry -man the dish ought to be very satisfying. - -"Our dinner ended with _frijoles_, or beans; and we remark here that -beans are the principal food of the Mexicans of the lower ranks of life, -and are largely used by the middle and upper classes. The great majority -of Mexicans eat them twice a day, and a dinner would be incomplete -without them. The annual crop of these beans in Mexico must be something -enormous, and its failure would be as bad as that of wheat in our -Northern States, potatoes in Ireland, or codfish along the New England -coast. - -"They cook them in various ways, but the favorite form is in a stew. -They are usually considered unwholesome if eaten on the day they are -cooked; they are always prepared with pepper, either green or red, and -the preparation is so hot with pepper that one seems to be eating -melted lead while partaking of _frijoles à la Mexican_. Peppers enter -into nearly all the Mexican cookery; an American who does not like them -told us that the proportions for a Mexican stew were one pound of meat, -one quart of water, and one pound of hashed peppers. It is a common -remark in Texas and Colorado that a wolf will not eat a dead Mexican -because he is so impregnated with pepper that even the stomach of that -voracious animal can't stand it." - -The Mexican dinner proved a digestible one; at all events Frank and Fred -slept soundly and were fully refreshed for the visit to the battle-field -on the following day. Saddle-horses were in readiness as soon as -breakfast was over, and the party made a good start. We will listen to -Fred's account of the excursion: - -[Illustration: THE GUIDE ON THE BATTLE FIELD.] - -"After the capture of Monterey, General Taylor remained for a while at -that city, and then marched upon Saltillo, which he occupied without -opposition. General Scott ordered the divisions of Worth and Twiggs to -join him at Vera Cruz for the advance upon the City of Mexico, and this -reduced Taylor's force to 5000 men, nearly all of them volunteers. The -Mexicans assembled a large army at San Luis Potosi, and advanced upon -Saltillo with 20,000 men, expecting to drive the Americans out of the -country. - -"On the 22d of February, 1847--Washington's birthday--General Taylor met -them at Buena Vista, or rather at the pass of La Angostura (the -narrows), three miles south of the hacienda which gives the name to the -battle. He occupied a position where he had great advantage, as a single -battery of artillery protected the entire front, while the flanks were -defended by steep gullies and ravines that the Mexicans could not hope -to pass, and by the mountains that rose on the east to a height of 2000 -feet. - -"There is a plateau to the east which Santa Anna, the Mexican commander, -tried to reach, as by gaining it he would be able to turn the pass where -the Americans were posted. Some of his troops advanced to it during the -afternoon of the 22d, but were driven back by the Americans; during the -night the Mexican army gained the plateau, and the Americans then -changed their position to the plain at the base, but continuing to hold -the entrance of the pass. - -[Illustration: THE BATTLE OF BUENA VISTA.] - -"On the morning of the 23d the fighting began in full earnest, the -Mexicans attacking in three heavy columns, which were directed on the -American left. The American line was broken on that side, but the centre -and right held their ground and drove the enemy back. Then the Americans -attacked the Mexican infantry on the right and drove it back. As a last -move, Santa Anna formed his whole force into a single column, which -drove the Americans back for some distance, until the Mexicans were -checked by the artillery. In this last part of the battle, when the -cause of the Americans seemed lost, General Taylor gave the celebrated -order, which has passed into history, 'Give them a little more grape, -Captain Bragg.' Captain Bragg's battery of artillery was stationed on -one of the little mounds or hillocks at the entrance of the defile, and -from that point he threw an iron hail among the advancing Mexicans that -drove them into disorder and flight. - -"The battle lasted all day, and when night came the two armies occupied -very nearly the same positions they held in the morning. The men slept -where they were, and General Taylor was uncertain whether the battle -would be resumed the next morning or not. When morning came it was seen -that the Mexican army had fled, and the whole ground where they were at -sunset was deserted. About 20,000 men had been beaten by less than 5000. -Their losses were placed at 2000, while that of the Americans was 746, -or about one-sixth their entire number. Gen. Lew. Wallace, in writing -about the battle, says that by every rule of scientific warfare the -Americans were beaten oftener than there were hours in the day, but they -did not know it; they rallied and fought, and rallied and fought again, -till they finally 'wrung victory from the hands of assured defeat.' - -"We spent two or three hours on the battle-field, visiting all the -points of interest and listening to the story as it was told by our -guide, an intelligent Mexican who was born in the vicinity, and has -latterly made it his business to show strangers over the ground. He said -there had been very few changes since the battle. The public road runs -straight through the battle-field, and it is easy to understand the -positions of the opposing armies. One thing we understood, after seeing -the ground, which we did not comprehend before: we had wondered why the -Mexicans made so little use of their cavalry, of which they had 4000, -and the Mexican horsemen are among the best in the world. When we saw -how the ground is cut up with _barrancas_, or deep ravines, making it -impossible for companies and regiments of mounted men to preserve their -formation, we did not wonder any more. - -"We returned to the hacienda in time for the mid-day meal, and in the -afternoon went back to Saltillo. The journey to Saltillo was quickly -made, as the road descends a good deal, and the horses went along at an -excellent pace." - -[Illustration: BOLL OF MEXICAN COTTON PLANT.] - -The rest of the day was spent in sight-seeing about Saltillo, including -visits to some of the cotton and other factories, for which the place is -famed. The machinery in the cotton factories is of foreign make--some of -it from England and some from the United States. The cloth made there is -of ordinary quality, and sells for a price that ought to give a fine -profit to the owners of the establishment. Frank asked about the wages -of the laborers in the mills, and found that they received from thirty -to fifty cents a day for twelve or fourteen hours' work, according to -their skill and the amount of labor they performed. - -It is estimated that about 30,000,000 pounds, or 60,000 bales, of cotton -are annually converted into cloth in Mexico. Most of the raw cotton is -grown in the country; and what with the cultivation of the product and -its manufacture into textiles, it is thought that 50,000 families are -supported by the cotton industry. Where the mills are carefully managed -they are profitable, and make a liberal return for the investment of -capital. - -[Illustration: PICKING COTTON.] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -FROM SALTILLO TO JARAL.--A JOURNEY BY DILIGENCE.--PECULIARITIES OF -DILIGENCE TRAVEL.--BRIGANDAGE; HOW THE GOVERNMENT SUPPRESSED -IT.--ROBBERS TURNED INTO SOLDIERS.--STORIES OF BRIGANDS AND THEIR WORK; -THEIR TREATMENT OF PRISONERS.--A CASE OF POLITENESS.--DINNER AT A -WAY-SIDE INN.--_CHILE CON CARNE_.--DESCRIPTION OF CHIHUAHUA.--THE SANTA -EULALIA MINES; ROMANTIC STORY OF THEIR DISCOVERY.--TORREON AND -LERDO.--COTTON IN TRANSIT.--STATISTICS OF COTTON IN -MEXICO.--FRESNILLO.--CALERA.--A BAD BREAKFAST.--ARRIVAL AT -ZACATECAS.--LODGED IN AN OLD CONVENT. - - -Bright and early the next morning our friends were ready for the journey -to Jaral, where they were to connect with the train on the International -Railway to carry them farther into Mexico. The distance is about forty -miles, and was to be made by diligence, as the railway from Jaral to -Saltillo was not then completed. They by no means regretted this, as a -ride in one of these vehicles would be a novelty. The boys had read and -heard a great deal about diligence travel in Mexico, and were more than -willing to have an experience of it. - -[Illustration: DEPARTURE OF THE DILIGENCE.] - -The start was made about seven o'clock in the morning, and there was a -considerable crowd in the street to see them off. The arrival and -departure of the diligence is an event in a Mexican town, though less so -than it was before the days of the railway. It is probable that by the -time this book is in the hands of the reader, the locomotive will have a -finished track between Saltillo and Jaral, and the diligence will be -known no more, except as a relic of past days. Those who have been -jolted for hours and days in these heavily built carriages and over bad -roads will give the heartiest kind of a welcome to the new order of -things. The diligence will long continue on many of the side roads in -Mexico, where it will not pay to build the railway, just as the -stage-coach still exists in parts of the United States; but the great -through routes have lost it for all time. - -Immediately on their arrival at Saltillo, before going to Buena Vista, -Doctor Bronson secured places for the trio in the diligence for Jaral; -at the diligence offices all through Mexico, the rule of "first come -first served" is followed as in a steamship or a Pullman car, and when -the vehicle is full the traveller whose place is unsecured must wait -for the next journey, extra carriages being very rarely put on. If the -weather is good, an outside seat (_el pescante_) is decidedly -preferable, as it affords a much better view of the scenery along the -route. American tourists generally take the chances of the weather, and -select outside places; but the native, who does not care for the -prospect, and desires nothing beyond making the journey as speedily as -possible, is quite content with the inside (_el interior_). - -[Illustration: ON THE ROAD.] - -Mexican roads are bad, and Mexican carriages are constructed with a view -to withstanding all the shaking that a rough road can give. The result -is that at the end of a long journey the traveller feels very much as -though he had been passed through a patent clothes-wringer or an -improved threshing-machine. But no such fear troubled our friends, as -the distance to Jaral was but forty-two miles, and the schedule time for -the journey seven hours. The road was bad enough, it is true, but the -youths heeded the advice of Doctor Bronson, and consoled themselves with -the reflection that it might have been a great deal worse than it was. - -They had read so much about brigandage in Mexico that the possibilities -of an encounter with highwaymen naturally came into their minds. At the -first opportunity they asked an American resident of Saltillo about the -state of the country through which they were to pass, and the liability -to an unpleasant encounter. - -[Illustration: FIGHT BETWEEN BRIGANDS AND SOLDIERS.] - -"There is hardly any danger on this line now," was the reply, "and it is -a long time since a robbery was committed. There is less brigandage in -Mexico to-day than there was a few years ago, but there is still too -much of it to make travelling altogether agreeable. The Government has -put down the system of robbery as much as possible, partly by capturing -and killing the brigands, and partly by hiring them to quit the business -and become respectable citizens." - -"That's a curious way to suppress crime," said one of the youths, "to -hire a man to be honest, after he has spent a good part of his life in -robbery." - -"It doesn't harmonize with our ideas of propriety," said the gentleman, -"but it had the desired effect at all events. General Diaz, when he -became President, induced the robber chiefs to quit the business they -were in, and enter the service of the Government; they were pardoned for -their misdeeds, commissioned as officers in the army, and appointed to -preserve order in certain districts. Their followers were enlisted as -soldiers to serve under their old leaders; each soldier receives $40 a -month, and furnishes his own horse and equipments. As they know the -whole country where they are on duty, they have effectually put down -brigandage in their districts; they are the best horsemen in the world, -and there's no finer body of cavalry anywhere than the Mexican -_Rurales_--the reformed brigands." - -"Doesn't it sometimes happen that they turn robbers temporarily, just to -keep themselves in practice?" - -"Yes, they have done so in several instances, but on the whole these -converted highwaymen have kept faith with the Government very fairly. -You must remember that brigandage has been a regular occupation for -centuries, and it cannot be broken up in a hurry. In some parts of the -country it was organized as a business, and many men who stood well in -the community were associated with the robbers, and received a -percentage of their earnings." - -"Did they take any part in the robberies?" - -"Not exactly with their own hands; but they used to notify the brigands -when valuable trains were to be on the road, and at what time they would -start; they acted as scouts or spies, if you please, and in this way -earned their right to a share of the plunder. - -"I was once captured and carried into the mountains by a party of -brigands who held me for a ransom. In the old times before Maximilian -came here, the Mexican brigands simply robbed travellers who made no -resistance, and killed those who resisted unsuccessfully. Maximilian -imported some Italians, who very soon turned robbers, and affiliated -with the Mexican bandits; they taught the Mexicans the Italian trick of -holding prisoners for ransom, and it was practised very extensively. - -[Illustration: ENCAMPMENT OF BRIGANDS.] - -"Well, the rascals carried me off to their retreat in the hills, and -made me write to my brother demanding five thousand dollars as ransom -for me. They threatened that in case it was not paid by a certain day I -would be shot, and my friends would receive my head as a proof that the -threat had been carried out. - -[Illustration: A KING OF THE ROAD.] - -"The letter was delivered by a respectable citizen, who was on friendly -terms with my brother and myself. I had dined at his house and he at -mine, and we had had several business transactions. It had been -intimated that he was friendly with the brigands, and this circumstance -proved it. My brother paid the money to him, and I was released and -allowed to come home. They treated me well while I was with them, but -kept a guard over me all the time with orders to kill me instantly in -case I attempted to escape." - -"I suppose they made you promise not to reveal the name of that man to -the authorities?" - -"Not at all; I could have done so, and he would have been tried and -convicted on the evidence of myself and brother. He would have been -shot without mercy, but the matter would not have ended there; the -brigands would have avenged his death and assassinated both of us within -a week, _sure_. - -[Illustration: CAVALRY PURSUING A BAND OF ROBBERS.] - -"In some respects the brigands were not so bad as they have been -painted," the gentleman continued. "The diligence companies have an -arrangement whereby a traveller can buy a letter of credit to pay his -bills with along the road, instead of carrying money, which would be a -temptation to robbers. His expenditures are indorsed on the letter of -credit by the company's agents, or he can draw a few dollars every night -upon his letter to pay his hotel bill with. But it is necessary to carry -some money in your pocket to pay the robbers for the trouble of stopping -and examining you; if they find absolutely nothing to reward them for -their efforts, you will very likely be killed as a warning to be more -considerate the next time you travel. If they should rob you of your -letter of credit, you can write or telegraph back to the agency where -you obtained it, and a telegraphic transfer will be made for the amount -remaining. - -"Their usual plan of operations is to rush out suddenly from the -road-side, and present pistols and guns in the faces of passengers and -drivers, with a suddenness that prevents resistance. The passengers are -ordered to alight, hold their hands in the air, then to lie down and -place their mouths to the ground, and in this attitude their pockets are -searched. The brigands are generally polite but firm, and in the -American phrase, 'they won't stand any nonsense.' When the examination -of pockets is completed they order the passengers to lie still for five -or ten minutes, perhaps for a quarter of an hour, and during that time -the fellows disappear from sight. If no resistance is offered no one is -harmed, except once in a while when a blood-thirsty brigand kills for -the sheer pleasure of it; but such fellows are soon apprehended, and -generally they are betrayed by their followers, who do not relish the -crimes that may be visited on their heads. - -"Sometimes they build a barricade across the road at a place where there -is a sharp turn, and in the confusion that follows the arrival of the -coach at the barricade they perform their work. In such cases the -robbers are concealed in the bushes all along the road-side, and the -passengers suddenly discover a dozen or more guns bearing on them at -once. Discretion is always advisable under such circumstances, and the -traveller who is prudent will surrender his valuables at once. - -"A friend of mine tells a story," he continued, "that illustrates the -politeness of the Mexican robbers. - -"He was travelling on horseback with a friend and a servant, and fell -into the hands of a band of brigands whose leader was named Manuel. The -fellows took everything of value that the travellers had, and then the -chief told the sufferers that he would give them a pass which would save -them from further molestation. Perhaps he was not altogether -disinterested in so doing, as the exhibition of the pass would save his -friends the trouble of searching an array of empty pockets and getting -nothing for their trouble. - -"Thereupon he wrote on a leaf of my friend's note-book something like -the following: - - "'DEAR GOMEZ,--This party has been thoroughly examined, and we've - left them nothing you want. Please allow them to go on without - delay.' - -[Illustration: HOTEL BY THE WAY-SIDE.] - -"Then he told them where they would be stopped, and was about to bid -them good-by when my friend suggested that he had nothing with which to -pay his expenses on the road. Manuel suggested that the travellers ought -not to want for anything, and immediately gave them five dollars, which -he placed in a neat pocket-book that he had taken from another traveller -the day before. They met the other robbers at the place designated, and -on presenting the pass were not interfered with in any way. My friend's -horse had become lame, and Gomez generously gave him a fresh horse, -stolen, no doubt, from somebody else, and turned the lame steed out by -the road-side." - -Other stories of the same sort were told, and the interview ended with -an account of how the American owner of a line of coaches between Vera -Cruz and Mexico City, away back in the forties, before the days of the -railway, made a bargain with the chief of the brigands commanding the -route, by which, in consideration of an annual subsidy, they were not to -molest his coaches or passengers. The subsidy was regularly paid, and -the brigands faithfully regarded their side of the bargain. When -General Scott was advancing from Vera Cruz upon the capital he made a -contract with this same American to supply the army with beef; and -through the efficient aid of his friends the brigands, he had no -difficulty in carrying out his contract. They stole cattle from all the -haciendas within a hundred miles of the route and kept him well -supplied. - -The road from Saltillo to Jaral follows a picturesque valley, and in the -forty-two miles between the two places makes a descent of nearly -fourteen hundred feet. Consequently there was more down-hill than up, -and the diligence went along in fine style. The driver was an -accomplished whip, and managed his team admirably. For a part of the way -the vehicle was drawn by horses; at the first station mules were -substituted, and our friends were unable to say which were the better -for the work. The driver explained that he preferred mules for the -reason that in case they ran away they would keep to the middle of the -road, while horses were apt to shy and turn to one side, thereby -endangering the safety of the diligence and its passengers. This -difference between horses and mules has been noted by drivers in other -parts of the world, and is said to be correct. - -The driver had an assistant, whose duty it was to throw stones at the -leading animals to encourage them to their work. He was a skilled -marksman and rarely missed his aim. Sometimes he threw the missiles -while seated on the box at the driver's side, and at others he ran -alongside the team or kept near the wheels of the coach. In either case -the result was the same, and the conveyance under his manipulations made -good progress. - -Crosses at several points on the road showed where travellers had been -killed by robbers. On all the roads of Mexico these crosses can be seen, -and on some routes they are painfully numerous. - -At noon a halt was made at a hacienda sufficiently long to enable the -passengers to have something to eat. They were supplied with _chile con -carne_, a stew of meat and peppers, very hot in two ways, and with the -ever-present tortillas and frijoles. The jolting over the road, combined -with the pure air of the Sierras, gave the travellers a vigorous -appetite, and they heartily enjoyed their road-side repast. The service -was somewhat primitive in character, and reminded our friends of -Delmonico's, in New York, solely by its contrasts. - -No brigands came to disturb the progress or the minds of the travellers, -and in due time they reached Jaral and were landed in safety. Fred made -the following practical note for the information of future travellers: - -"The fare between Saltillo and Jaral is $3.75. Twenty-five pounds of -baggage may be carried free by each passenger; for all excess he must -pay seventy-five cents for each twenty-five pounds. There is a daily -departure each way, and sometimes when the business demands it there are -two departures." - -[Illustration: STREET SCENE AT JARAL.] - -There was not a great deal to be seen at Jaral, but the youths did not -waste their time. They devoted themselves to obtaining information about -the country to the northward along the line of the International and -Central railways, and here is substantially what they ascertained: - -"A hundred miles to the north of where we now are is the city of -Monclova, which was for some time the terminus of the International -Railway. It was the capital of Texas and Cohahuila when they both formed -one State, before the war which gave Texas her independence. It is the -centre of a region rich in minerals, and of late years several -enterprising Americans have established themselves there, and are -developing the resources of the country. Some of the silver ore in the -Monclova district is so rich that it is sent to the United States and to -Europe to be reduced, and the transportation of this ore furnishes a -good business for the railway company. - -"About half-way from Monclova to the American frontier is the town of -Sabinas, which is the centre of a rich coal region. Mexico is in great -need of coal, and it is only recently that it was known that she had a -fine supply of it in her borders. It is found in a large part of the -Sabinas Valley. There are extensive mines at Hondo and San Felipe, -especially at Hondo, whence they are shipping large quantities for the -use of the railways in this country and Texas, and for the mines in the -interior of Mexico. - -"There is an abundance of iron ore near Monclova, not far from the -railway, and it is proposed to erect extensive iron-works at Sabinas for -its reduction. The railways seem to have waked up this sleepy country, -and if some Rip Van Winkle of other days could arise and look around -him, he would rub his eyes in astonishment. - -"If we had come into Mexico by the Central Railway we would have passed -through the State of Chihuahua (pronounced she-_waw_-waw); but we -wouldn't have seen much, as the train leaves El Paso in the evening, -runs through a desolate country, and reaches the city of Chihuahua for -breakfast in the morning. Mr. Janvier, the author of 'The Mexican -Guide,' says there is not much to be seen in the city, and advises -travellers not to stop there. According to his account, it is so overrun -by Americans that it cannot be called a typical Mexican town. It has -about 20,000 inhabitants, and no public buildings of importance, with -the exception of the Church of San Francisco, which was built by a tax -of one real on each pound of silver taken from the Santa Eulalia mines, -which are in the vicinity. Chihuahua was once the centre of a large -trade with the United States; and at one time when the road was -dangerous, armed caravans were made up periodically, just as they are -made up in Central Asia and other parts of the Old World at the present -time. - -[Illustration: EL REAL DE SANTA EULALIA.] - -"The silver-mines of Santa Eulalia are about fifteen miles from -Chihuahua, and have the reputation of being among the richest -silver-mines in the world. The district is fifteen or twenty miles -square, and contains, or once contained, a good many silver-mines, which -turned out fabulous amounts of the precious metal. Gen. Lew. Wallace has -visited and described some of these mines, and judging from his account -they must have been very rich. According to tradition, there was a time -when the Real de Santa Eulalia had 7000 inhabitants, and the city of -Chihuahua 70,000, all living, directly or indirectly, upon the product -of the mines. Since the Spaniards left Mexico the mines have not been -worked as extensively as before, and the operations now carried on there -are upon a limited scale. There is a prospect that some of the old glory -of the mines will be restored, now that northern Mexico is becoming -accustomed to American ways of mining, and is beginning to adopt them. - -[Illustration: THE RAVINE WHERE THE OUTCASTS LIVED.] - -"There is a romantic story concerning the way the mines were discovered. -About the year 1700, three scoundrels who had been driven out of -Chihuahua went to find refuge among the mountains of Santa Eulalia; they -must have been a very bad lot to be obliged to seek safety in that -region, which was infested by the Apache Indians, who were at war with -the white people, and would have made quick work of killing these -refugees if they had caught them. How they lived nobody knows; they were -obliged to shift their locality from time to time to prevent being found -by the Indians, and one day they came upon a ravine with precipitous -sides, where there was a good supply of water. - -"One of the men knew something about silver, and in looking around he -found a rich deposit of ore. They sent word by a friendly Indian to the -senior priest in Chihuahua that they would show him where he could get -enough silver to build the finest cathedral in the world, and would do -so on condition that he would absolve them from their sins, and obtain -their pardon from the authorities. - -"The bad men were absolved and pardoned, and kept their promise by -showing the way to the mines, which were immediately opened, and yielded -one hundred millions of dollars in eighty-six years. Enormous fortunes -were made by the owners; and there is a story that once on the visit of -a bishop who was to perform some religious service, the owner of one of -the mines entertained the holy man at his house. He laid a path of -silver bricks from his house to the door of the church, and when the -bishop proceeded to the church he walked all the way upon solid silver. -And the story ends by saying that the owner was careful to have the -bricks taken up as fast as the bishop lifted his feet from them." - -Leaving Jaral a little before noon, our friends proceeded by the -south-bound train of the International Railway to Torreon, a distance of -130 miles, which was accomplished in about five hours. At Torreon they -waited two hours for the train of the Mexican Central Railway, and while -looking about them the youths espied several car-loads of cotton, which -were about to leave by a freight train then being made up. - -[Illustration: ON THE EDGE OF THE COTTON FIELD.] - -Naturally, the sight of the cotton led to an inquiry concerning the -production of that article in Mexico and the uses made of it. The youths -learned that cotton is grown in about half the States of Mexico, the -largest quantity being produced in the State of Vera Cruz, while that of -Durango ranks next. In the early part of the century about one million -pounds of cotton were exported annually. Down to the time of the -independence of Mexico from Spain, the royal authorities allowed no -manufactures in the colony that would be likely to interfere with those -of the mother-country, and consequently the manufacture of cotton goods -was prohibited. After independence was secured, factories were built and -set in operation, and at present the production of cotton is not -sufficient to meet the demands of the manufacturers. - -[Illustration: "COTTON IS KING."] - -The best cotton is grown in the _tierra caliente_, but the plant thrives -in the table-land up to an elevation of 5000 feet. According to a -Mexican statistician, the average product is about 2000 pounds to the -acre, which is more than double the average of the cotton-growing region -of the United States. - -Torreon and its near neighbor, Lerdo, are the principal shipping-points -for the cotton grown in Durango. It is probable that the opening of the -railways will stimulate the growth of cotton in Mexico. The United -States and other cotton-growing countries may look for considerable -exportations of that product from Mexican seaports at no distant day. -The manufacture of cotton cloth in Mexico is encouraged by an import -duty on all foreign textiles that does not give much opportunity for -competition. German and English manufacturers have labored hard to -convince the Mexicans that they would be greatly benefited by allowing -other countries to do their manufacturing for them, but thus far the -Mexicans have remained obstinately adhesive to their protective tariff. - -The train left Torreon a few minutes before seven o'clock in the -evening, and consequently but little was seen of the country until the -following morning. Soon after daylight it reached Fresnillo, an -important mining town which dates from the middle of the sixteenth -century. A valuable silver-mine was opened at Fresnillo at that time, -but its operation was long ago abandoned. Fresnillo is the point at -which the two sections of the Mexican Central Railway were brought -together in 1884, and the route was completed for an unobstructed run of -the locomotive from the frontier of the United States to the capital of -Mexico. - -[Illustration: VIEW IN THE MINING REGION.] - -Our friends made their toilets in the sleeping-car as quickly as -possible, and then turned to a contemplation of the scenery through -which they were passing. On each side of the railway there was an -extensive plain, with a fringe of low mountains forming the horizon. -Straight ahead lay a range of mountains, which a friendly -fellow-passenger said was rich in silver and had made the fortunes of -Zacatecas and other towns. - -They stopped for breakfast at a small town bearing the name of Calera, -but neither Frank nor Fred could find that it was famous for anything, -not even for the quality of the meals supplied by its restaurant. Then -they rolled on towards Zacatecas, which they reached in about an hour -after leaving Calera. In approaching Zacatecas the train wound among the -mountains in numerous curves and bends, forming "mule-shoes" by the -dozen, and facing every point of the compass before coming to a halt. - -Zacatecas affords a good opportunity for studying silver-mining in -Mexico, and consequently it had been selected by Doctor Bronson as a -convenient stopping-place. By advice of the conductor, our friends rode -in the tram-way cars to the hotel, and intrusted their baggage to -cargadores, who were more than anxious for employment. The hotel in -which they lodged was formerly an Augustinian convent, and all the more -interesting for that reason. - -[Illustration: CONVENT AND FOUNTAIN.] - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -NAME, POPULATION, AND PECULIARITIES OF ZACATECAS.--THE PILGRIMAGE -CHAPEL.--A WEALTHY CATHEDRAL.--STREET SCENES.--MINES OF ZACATECAS.--A -DANGEROUS DESCENT.--THE PATIO PROCESS OF REDUCING ORES.--TREADING ORE -WITH MULES AND HORSES.--A SORRY SIGHT.--THE MINERS; HOW THEY LIVE AND -WORK.--STATISTICS OF SILVER-MINING IN MEXICO.--ASTOUNDING -CALCULATIONS.--FROM ZACATECAS TO AGUAS CALIENTES.--FARM SCENES.--FARMING -IN MEXICO.--CONDITION OF LABORERS.--MEN AS BEASTS OF BURDEN.--AGUAS -CALIENTES.--A BEAUTIFUL CITY.--A PICTURESQUE POPULATION.--WOMEN OF -MEXICO. - - -"What is the meaning of Zacatecas?" Fred asked while the train was -bearing them to the city of that name. - -Neither the Doctor nor Frank could answer the question, and so the -desired information was sought from the guide-book. - -[Illustration: A SILVER-PRODUCING VALLEY.] - -It was found that the name was derived from a tribe of Indians called -Zacatecas, and also from a grass that grows there, and is known in -Mexico as _zacate_. It should be remembered that the city is the capital -of the State of Zacatecas. As it stands in a ravine, where very little -grass of any kind can grow, it is probable that the appellation, so far -as the grass is concerned, belongs rather to the State than to the city, -which is the centre of the silver-mining district. - -The city, which has a population of about 30,000, is anything but -attractive, as its position in a deep ravine makes its streets very -narrow, and crowds the buildings closely together. Its streets are badly -paved, and it is so poorly supplied with water that the drains are not -properly washed. Frank thought it averaged a distinct and different -smell for each thousand of its inhabitants, and the youths were not -surprised to learn that the mortality, especially among the poorer part -of the population, is very great. The mountains rise all around and -above the city, and the extent of the silver business is shown by the -large number of buildings on the mountainsides, which mark the -reduction-works and the entrances to the mines. - -There is a ridge called the _Bufa_, or Buffalo, overlooking the city; it -is the site of a little church, or chapel, that was built there more -than a century and a half ago, and was at one time a favorite place of -pilgrimage. Ordinary offenders were required to do penance by ascending -on foot to the door of the chapel, and extraordinary ones made the -journey on their knees. The custom still prevails, though less so than -formerly. Frank and Fred saw several pilgrims making the ascent, but -were told that days, and even weeks, might elapse before another scene -of the same sort could be witnessed. - -The travellers paid a hasty visit to the cathedral of Zacatecas, which -was formerly very rich in ornaments; most of them were removed at the -time of the confiscation of the property of the Church by the -Government, and are not likely to be restored. It is said that the -baptismal font was of solid silver, and worth $100,000. The Jesuits have -on the side of the mountain a fine church, which presents a very -picturesque appearance and contains some interesting and valuable -paintings. - -The street scenes were much the same as at Monterey and Saltillo, with -the addition of groups of miners and men employed about the -reduction-works, droves of _burros_, or donkeys, laden with ore and -other things peculiar to the industry of the locality. The youths wished -to visit the mines and descend to the scene of operations underground, -and consequently were not inclined to devote much time to the public -buildings and the streets. They observed that the city had sufficient -enterprise to be lighted with electricity, and to have a telephone, an -exchange, and a fire department, though the scarcity of wooden -buildings seemed to afford very little use for the latter. - -[Illustration: CACTUS GROWTHS NEAR ZACATECAS.] - -They were advised not to go into the mines, as the descent must be made -by ladders which are not constructed like ordinary ones, but are nothing -more than logs set upright and notched alternately on opposite sides. -The miners ascend and descend very nimbly along these rude ladders, and -accidents are rare; but strangers find them dangerous. - -Frank and Fred were quite willing to take the risk, but the Doctor was -more prudent, and suggested that they would defer their visit to the -interior of a mine until they reached one with less liability to mishap. -But this did not interfere with a visit to one of the reduction-works, -for which a permit was readily obtained. - -[Illustration: FIELD WITH ADOBE WALLS.] - -"Before we make the visit," said the Doctor, "I want you to learn what -the patio process of reduction is, so that you can see intelligently. -The patio process is in use here, as it is throughout Mexico and South -America generally." - -In the hour they had at their disposal, Frank and Fred informed -themselves on the subject, and were able to write as follows: - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN ARASTRA.] - -"The patio process was invented in 1557 by Bartolomé de Medina, and is -so called because a patio, or yard, is required for its operation. The -ore is crushed and ground fine in _arastras_. An arastra is a mill where -an animal, generally a mule, walks in a circle and turns a millstone -that rolls upon a floor, on which the material to be ground is placed. -We have seen arastras at work several times since we came into Mexico; -and they are not unknown in the south-western part of the United States. - -"If there is any gold in the ore, fifty or sixty per cent. of it may be -saved by putting silver or copper amalgam into the arastras. Some of the -Mexican ores must be roasted to remove certain chemicals which they -contain, but this is not the case with all of them. The paste from the -arastras is spread in heaps on the floor of the patio; after it has -hardened somewhat by the evaporation of a part of the water it contains, -it receives a quantity of salt, which is in proportion to the amount of -silver in the ore. Then it is mixed by men with shovels and by the tread -of horses or mules, and a day or two later a mixture of copper vitriol -and salt is added. - -"Then follows more treading and mixing; then quicksilver is spread over -the mass and trodden in, and the next day there is another mixing and -treading. These performances are repeated on alternate days, quicksilver -being added one day and the mass being trodden the next, until the -treading has been repeated seven or eight times. The quicksilver unites -with the silver and forms an amalgam; the formation is carefully -watched, and when it has reached the proper condition the amalgam is -gathered up into hide or canvas bags. Some of the quicksilver is -squeezed out, and the rest is driven off by evaporation and condensed in -a pipe that runs into a tub of water." - -"There's a good deal more," said Fred, "but I'm afraid if we say too -much about the process we shall lead our young friends at home to skip -the whole story. So we've made it short." - -"You've said quite enough," replied the Doctor, "to give a general idea -of what the patio process is. Anybody who wants to know more can look it -up in books on mining, or in cyclopædias." - -[Illustration: CARRYING ORE TO THE REDUCTION-WORKS.] - -Armed with the information they had obtained, the youths were able to -understand intelligently the operations at the reduction-works that they -visited. Frank thought they could find a cheaper way of mixing up the -mass of ore than by treading it out with mules. Doctor Bronson told them -that methods had been adopted in California and Nevada whereby all this -work is done by machinery, but they were not generally approved in -Mexico. "The Mexicans," said he, "are slow to change; they have done -their work in this way for 300 years, and it is not easy to convince -them that there is anything better in the world. The Americans who buy -or lease mines in Mexico, and adopt the plans that suit themselves, will -afford some instruction by example; the Mexicans may learn by the -example, especially if they find that the new process enables their -competitors to make money out of a mine they cannot do anything with." - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN CRUSHER.] - -In one patio there were 120 horses at work, in gangs of twelve or -sixteen, treading out the ore. "They are sorry-looking brutes," said -Fred, "as their tails are shaved, and their bodies splashed with the -black mud through which they are walking. To us it looks like ordinary -mud, but to the eye of the expert I suppose it is altogether different, -as we are told that a mining superintendent can determine almost at a -glance how rich the mineral is. Evidently the horses don't know the -value of what they are treading, or they wouldn't look so dejected and -forlorn. Horses and mules that are old and useless for anything else are -bought for this work. The chemicals destroy their hoofs, and they do not -last a great while. If there were a Mexican Henry Bergh he would most -certainly try to put a stop to this cruelty.[3] - -[3] The youths were evidently unaware that there is a Mexican Society -for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Its headquarters are in the -City of Mexico; its president is Señor Vidal Castañeda y Nadal, and its -secretary Señor Eduardo L. Gallo. The society had done excellent work in -preventing cruelty to animals, and in addition to other things has -caused bull-fighting to be suppressed in several parts of the republic. - -"The men who are working among the horses are about as unprepossessing -in appearance as the animals. They wear only a shirt and trousers, and -both garments look as though cloth was dear when they were planned. The -trousers come only to the knee, and the sleeves of the shirt do not -reach the elbow. The men who work in the mines and about the reduction -establishments are carefully searched on quitting work, to make sure -that they do not carry off anything of value; their garments are without -pockets, and thus they have no places for storing away stolen property. -But in spite of the absence of pockets, they would manage to steal some -of the amalgam if they were not so closely watched and carefully -searched. - -"In some of the mines, they work with scarcely a thread about them, the -heat being so great that clothing cannot be borne with ease. The miners -generally work in small teams or gangs, and receive a portion of the ore -taken out in addition to their wages, which vary from thirty to fifty -cents a day. Sometimes the payment is altogether in ore, which is sold -at auction on stated days. - -"We asked if the miners ever gave trouble by striking, and were told -that they had not yet become sufficiently Americanized to form -themselves into labor unions. The people seem to be entirely content -with what they receive, and as they have very few wants, and do not try -to save anything from one week to another, it is not likely they will -change their ways in a hurry." - -"While we are on the subject," wrote Frank, in a letter describing the -visit to Zacatecas, "we may as well say what we learned about -silver-mining in general throughout Mexico. - -"Silver was known to the Aztecs before the Spanish Conquest, but they do -not seem to have made much use of it. They worked it into ornaments and -various small articles, but among the treasures of Montezuma seized by -Cortez the amount of silver was very small compared with that of gold. -The Spaniards had no idea of the immense value of the country when they -conquered it, so far as silver is concerned." - -"But they began developing the mines very soon after they captured the -country," Fred remarked. - -[Illustration: BRINGING ORE FROM THE MINES.] - -"Yes," responded Frank; "in the expedition commanded by Cortez there -were many men who were familiar with the mines of Old Spain, and they -were not long in finding the silver deposits of the New World. During -the sixteenth century the mines of Mexico were extensively worked, and -the working continued steadily down to the war for independence, when it -greatly fell off. At the time of Humboldt's visit, in 1803, about 3000 -distinct mines were in operation; Humboldt estimated that the product -of silver in Mexico from the Conquest, in 1521, down to 1804 amounted to -$2,027,952,000, and the estimate since that time brings the grand total -up to more than 4,000,000,000!" - -"What a lot of money!" exclaimed Fred. "Suppose we had it, and wanted to -take it to New York; how could we carry it?" - -[Illustration: MEXICAN BELLOWS.] - -"Wait a moment," was the reply, "and I'll tell you." - -Frank made a hasty calculation on a slip of paper, and then answered as -follows: - -"Roughly estimated, the weight of that value in silver would be -333,000,000 pounds, or 166,000 tons, estimating 2000 pounds to the ton. -If we had it in the City of Mexico we would have to engage 416 trains of -forty cars each, with ten tons of silver in each car, to take it to Vera -Cruz. From Vera Cruz we would need 166 steamships carrying a thousand -tons each, to take our precious freight to New York, and I'll let you -figure out how many warehouses we would need to store it in, and how -many policemen would be required to take care of it." - -"Well," said Fred, "there's one thing you've forgotten; remember that -the most of this silver has been brought from the mines on the backs of -mules or donkeys. Reckoning 100 pounds to a load, how many burros would -be needed to transport our fortune, supposing we had it?" - -Frank figured again, and found that the silver product of Mexico from -the Conquest to the present time would load three and a third million -burros; putting them in single file, and allowing each burro ten feet of -space, there would be 631 miles of them, and half a mile or so over. - -"Let's go into the business of silver-mining," said Fred; "just see -what a lot of money has been made by it, and with very crude methods of -reducing the ore! With the improved processes of modern times there must -be a fortune for everybody." - -"I don't know about it," replied his cousin; "anyway, we'll ask Doctor -Bronson's advice before we venture." - -[Illustration: MEXICAN SMELTING-FURNACE.] - -The appeal to the Doctor resulted in a good deal of sound information, -to the effect that silver-mining is generally unprofitable, and anybody -should think twice before venturing into it. "And so far as the Mexican -mines are concerned," he said, "there are very few of them that are -doing more than paying working expenses, and some do not do that. Fifty -or more American companies are engaged in this country at present; a few -have made money, but the majority have not yet received back what they -put into their enterprises, or any interest upon it. And unless I am -misinformed, it is next to impossible to buy a good mine here; if a -Mexican has a mine he is willing to sell, you may be pretty sure it -isn't worth buying. The same rule holds good in all mining regions the -world over, and is hardly necessary to discuss. The mining laws of -Mexico require that the owner of a mine must work it for four -consecutive months in each year, with four regular miners, under -penalty of forfeiture. Unless he complies with this law the mine -becomes the property of the Government and is sold at auction. - -"The laws of Mexico formerly prohibited foreigners not naturalized, or -provided with special licenses, from owning or working mines; but this -provision was repealed, and foreigners may now legally acquire mines in -any part of the republic, provided one of the partners in each mining -company resides in Mexico." - -From Zacatecas our friends proceeded in the direction of the capital, -their next stopping-place being at Aguas Calientes, 120 miles farther -south and nearly 2000 feet lower in elevation. Zacatecas is 8044 feet -above sea-level, while Aguas Calientes is 6179. - -For the first part of the journey the railway winds among the hills; -then it comes out into a rich and comparatively level country, where -great quantities of corn, wheat, barley, and wool are produced. The -plains and hill-sides were dotted with flocks of sheep, and the numerous -fields showed that the land was favorable to farming industries. - -[Illustration: AN OLD-FASHIONED PLOUGH.] - -Farming in Mexico is in a backward condition, the implements being -mainly of the primitive type. American ploughs, harrows, mowers, -reapers, and other farming implements and machines have been introduced, -as already mentioned, since the advent of the railways, but the Mexican -laborer does not take kindly to their use. - -It is said that on the haciendas where improved farming implements and -machinery have been introduced they have been maliciously destroyed or -put out of working order by the peons; their hostility to labor-saving -inventions is just as great as that of the same class of people in other -parts of the world. During the construction of the railways some of the -contractors brought a supply of wheelbarrows, to replace the gunny-sacks -with which the peons have been from time immemorial accustomed to carry -earth on their backs or heads. Being made to understand that they must -use the wheelbarrows instead of the sacks, they filled the vehicles with -earth and carried them on their heads. The contractors were obliged to -return to the use of the gunny-sack, as they found more work was done -with it than with the wheelbarrow. - -The Indians living in the neighborhood of the cities come down from -their homes in the hills, bringing on their backs large baskets filled -with garden vegetables, chickens, and other marketable things. The story -goes that when an Indian from the hills has sold his burden, he puts a -stone weighing fifty pounds or more in his basket, in order to give him -a "grip" with his feet on the ascending road which leads to his home. - -[Illustration: FARM-LABORER IN A GRASS CLOAK.] - -The agricultural laborers of Mexico are not an enterprising race, and -care nothing beyond supplying their daily wants. They were formerly held -in a condition of slavery, both before and after the Spanish Conquest; -but slavery was abolished soon after the war of independence, and -therefore the agricultural laborers, miners, and all other classes of -working-people, for the last fifty years and more, have been free. The -miners are said to be better workers than the farm-hands, as they are -not migratory in their habits, and generally spend their lifetime in -the places where they were born, unless compelled to go elsewhere in -search of employment. - -[Illustration: HACIENDA NEAR THE CITY.] - -Before the Conquest beasts of burden were unknown, and everything that -had to be transported was moved by human muscle. The priests imported -donkeys to take the place of men in carrying burdens, and from the -animals thus introduced the present race of burros is descended. Cattle, -sheep, horses, and hogs were brought from Spain previous to the -importation of donkeys, which did not make their advent until the -eighteenth century. Horses, cattle, and mules in great number are raised -in Mexico annually, but the stock-growers do not pay much attention to -other animals. - -The foregoing was learned by Frank and Fred during their ride from -Zacatecas to Aguas Calientes, and therefore this is its proper place in -the narrative. - -"There must be a hot spring where we are going," said Fred, "as _aguas -calientes_ means 'hot waters.'" - -"You are right," replied the Doctor; "there are hot springs in the city -and all through this region, and the baths of the city are famous, like -most hot baths, for their beneficial effects in rheumatism and other -diseases." - -[Illustration: PRISONERS AT WORK IN THE JAIL.] - -Of course a hot bath was one of the things to be sought, and the -travellers found it without difficulty. There was a bathing -establishment in the city, but they were advised to shun it and visit -the suburban baths, which were easily reached by the tram-way. The -temperature of the water is 106° Fahrenheit, and the supply is abundant. -The baths, combined with the general beauty of the place, have made -Aguas Calientes a popular health resort, and with the improved -accommodations that are sure to follow the advent of the railway the -popularity will increase. - -"It's the prettiest city we have seen since we came into Mexico," wrote -Frank in his note-book--"prettier than Monterey, Saltillo, or any other -of our halting-places. It abounds in gardens, and the people seem to -have a passionate fondness for flowers, if we may judge by the extent to -which they cultivate them. Around the city the country is fertile, and -there are finely cultivated fields, luxuriant vineyards, rich meadows, -and everything to please the eye. It is said that artists have a special -liking for this place, and now that I've seen it I'm not at all -surprised. - -"Whoever laid out this city had an eye to the picturesque, and realized -that land was plenty, as he gave it one large plaza and ten smaller -ones, and adorned several of the plazas with gardens. Then there are -some fine buildings belonging to the Government. There are thirteen -churches, a hospital, and a college; and I must not forget that there is -a jail, which is well patronized, and is said to be very attractive for -a jail. We have been through the market, which is supplied with more -fruit than we have seen since we left Monterey, together with several -varieties that we have not observed elsewhere. - -"They have a population of about twenty-five thousand here, and the -chief industry is in manufacturing. They make cloth of various kinds, -including some fine woollens, and we have seen handsome work in leather -and some very pretty pottery. Everybody we've talked with says that it's -a pity it is not the time of the annual fair, which lasts from the 23d -of April to the 10th of May, and brings in a large number of people from -the surrounding country. There are many curious costumes and customs to -be seen during the fair, which is a period of feasting for all who -attend it. Mr. Janvier says it resembles our Thanksgiving, as everybody -then lives upon _cacones_, or turkeys. The festival is of very ancient -date, and was held before the advent of the Spaniards. - -[Illustration: OF SPANISH BLOOD.] - -"In such a beautiful city we have looked for beautiful inhabitants, but -haven't found a great many, though it is proper to say we haven't been -able to hold a review of the whole population. While walking in one of -the gardens we saw several pretty girls of Spanish blood, accompanied by -their duennas; for, according to Spanish custom, no young girl is -allowed to walk out alone. They were dressed much after the fashion of -Paris or New York, except that they wore the lace veil or mantilla over -their heads, instead of the bonnet, which is the fashion with us. Their -taste seems inclined to gaudy colors, derived perhaps from the -luxuriance of nature around them. - -"The lower classes of the people are much more picturesque than the -upper, and the women more so than the men. Their skins are dark, and -their hair and eyes are invariably black. They keep their teeth white, -and are said to do so by a vigorous application of the juice of the -soap-plant. A piece of the stalk of this plant is chewed until it forms -a sort of brush; it contains a soapy juice that has cleansing properties -beneficial to the teeth. Many of the young women are pleasing to look -upon, but they are said to lose their good looks before reaching middle -life, for the reason, no doubt, that they have to do a great deal of -hard work. Their dress is a cheap calico, short in the skirt and -generally bright in color, with a loose jacket or waist. If their heads -are covered, it is with the _rebozo chiquito_, a scarf of silk or cotton -that is wrapped around the head and shoulders, and has a long fringe, -which falls down the back. The rebozo is very convenient for carrying a -baby, who is suspended there exactly as babies are carried in Japan." - -[Illustration: INDIAN GIRLS AT A SPRING.] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -SOUTHWARD AGAIN.--CROSSING A BARRANCA.--BARRANCAS IN MEXICO.--LAGOS AND -ITS PECULIARITIES.--LEON, THE MANUFACTURING CITY OF -MEXICO.--SILAO.--ARRIVAL AT GUANAJUATO.--A SILVER CITY.--THE VALENCIANO -MINE.--AN UNHEALTHY PLACE.--BAD DRAINAGE.--A SYSTEM OF RESERVOIRS.--THE -CASTILLO DEL GRENADITAS.--AN INDIAN'S ARMOR.--EXPERT THIEVES.--STEALING -A GRINDSTONE.--MARKET SCENES.--HEADS OF SHEEP AND GOATS.--SCHOOLS AT -GUANAJUATO.--EDUCATION IN MEXICO.--DOWN IN THE RAYAS MINE.--SIGHTS -UNDERGROUND.--AN INDIAN WATER-CARRIER.--HOW A SKIN IS TAKEN WHOLE FROM A -PIG.--THE REDUCTION HACIENDA.--MR. PARKMAN'S MACHINE.--QUERETARO.--THE -HERCULES AND OTHER COTTON-MILLS. - - -Satisfied with a day at Aguas Calientes, the party took the south-bound -trains and did not stop until reaching Silao, after a run of 130 miles. -An hour or more after leaving Aguas Calientes, they crossed the -barranca, or cañon, through which the Encarnacion River flows; the -bridge by which they crossed it is built of iron, and is more than 700 -feet long. It is fully 150 feet above the water, and the view as one -looks downward from the centre of the bridge is apt to cause dizziness -to a nervous traveller. - -[Illustration: A DRY BARRANCA.] - -"Perhaps you don't know what a barranca is," wrote Frank, in his next -letter to his mother. "Well, it's a deep channel which the water has -worn in its steady flow for thousands of years through the earth or soft -rock. The channel of Niagara River from the falls to Lewiston may be -called a barranca, and so may any similar cutting made by a stream, -whether large or small. Some of the Mexican barrancas are 2000 feet -wide, and 1000 or 1500 feet deep; their sides are almost precipitous, -and every year the waters wear a deeper way through the rock or earth. - -"Did you ever walk through a field, and come suddenly upon a ditch or -brook that was not visible a few yards away? Well, that's the case with -some of these barrancas. You come upon one without being aware that you -are near it; you may be galloping along enjoying the fresh air and the -pleasure of a ride, when all at once your horse stops, and as you draw -the reins you find yourself on the edge of a precipice, looking down -hundreds of feet, perhaps, to the turbid stream struggling along its -course. On the other side of the barranca the country is level again, -and you could gallop on without trouble but for the yawning chasm that -stands in your way. - -"The barrancas are crossed by descending to the stream along a sloping -road built with great ingenuity and at much expense; the stream is -passed by an ordinary bridge, and the high ground is reached again along -another sloping road. Barrancas have long been a serious obstacle to the -construction of wagon-roads in Mexico, and in recent years they have -taxed the ingenuity of railway engineers who sought to pass them." - -The first important city on the route was Lagos, which has a population -of 25,000 or thereabouts, and is devoted to manufacturing; farther on is -Leon, which is four times as large, and five or six times more -important, as it is the principal manufacturing city of the republic, -and was founded about 1550. Formerly there was a great fair held at Leon -annually for the sale of goods; it was similar to the great fairs of -Europe before the invention of the railway, but has dwindled in -importance as the railways have come in, and will probably be abandoned -before many years. - -"What do they make at Leon?" one may ask. For answer, Fred or Frank will -tell you that they make pretty nearly every kind of article that finds a -market in Mexico and can be fashioned by Mexican hands. There are -numerous tanneries there, and the leather which they produce is made -into boots, saddles, harnesses, leggings, and other things into whose -composition leather enters. There are factories for the manufacture of -cotton and woollen cloth, serapes, rebozos, and the like; there are -large shops where hats are made of every Mexican style and kind, and -sent to all parts of the republic; and there are soap factories, iron -founderies, cutlery establishments, tool-shops, and so on through a long -and possibly tiresome list. And it is safe to say that a popular vote of -the inhabitants of Leon would show an overwhelming majority in favor of -a protective tariff. Leonites are firm believers in protection to home -industries, and look frowningly on any movement to supplant their goods -with those of foreign make. - -[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAN DIEGO, GUANAJUATO.] - -About seven o'clock in the evening the train reached Silao, whence there -is a branch fifteen miles long to Guanajuato, or rather to Marfil, its -suburb. It was nearly nine o'clock when they reached the hotel at -Guanajuato; there was not much to be seen in the evening, and so the -time was passed mostly at the hotel, and devoted to a consideration of -the history of the place. The youths found that the site of Guanajuato -(pronounced Gwan-a-_what_-o) was given by one of the early viceroys to -Don Rodrigo Vasquez, who was one of the conquerors who came with Cortez; -the gift was a reward for Don Rodrigo's services in assisting to add -this valuable possession to the crown of Spain. According to tradition, -the discovery of silver was made here by accident some time in 1548, and -it immediately brought a crowd of adventurers in search of fortunes. For -a long time Guanajuato was one of the most productive silver districts -of Mexico; but since the Spanish domination ended, the product has -greatly diminished; the yield at present is about $6,000,000 annually, -and there are said to be something like 2000 mining claims in the -district. - -[Illustration: COURT-YARD OF A MEXICAN TENEMENT-HOUSE.] - -The most famous mine of Guanajuato is that of San José de Valenciano, -and it is said to have yielded in the days of its prosperity about -$800,000,000 worth of silver. When Humboldt visited it at the beginning -of this century he estimated that it produced one-fifth of the silver in -the world. It was "in bonanza," as the miners say, for about forty years -after it was opened, and paid enormous dividends to its owners in spite -of the heavy taxes exacted by the Government. From ten to twenty -thousand people were employed in and around the Valenciano mine when it -was in full operation. The galleries, chambers, and drifts of the mine -are said to be more extensive than all the streets of the city, and the -great _tiro_, or central shaft, is nearly 2000 feet deep. All the lower -part of the mine is now filled with water, and it cannot be removed -except at a cost so great that nobody is willing to undertake it. The -_veta madre_, or "mother-vein," on which the mine is located is pierced -by several other mines, and many persons believe that Guanajuato has -"seen its best days." - -[Illustration: SUPERINTENDENT'S HOUSE AT SILVER REDUCTION-WORKS.] - -Doctor Bronson arranged for his party to visit one of the mines where -the process of working could be seen; his application to the -_administrador_, or director, of the mine that they wished to see was -courteously received, and the desired permission granted at once. Fred -will tell the story of the excursion. - -[Illustration: A TON OF SILVER.] - -"While waiting for the pass from the administrador," said Fred, "we took -a look at the city, which has a population variously placed at from -fifty to seventy thousand, mostly dependent on the mines for their -support. The city stands in a ravine, and reminded us of Zacatecas. All -the world over, mining towns are almost always in mountain ravines or -valleys, and Guanajuato is no exception to the rule. - -"The streets are narrow, and badly paved with cobble-stones, and -locomotion with carriages is not at all easy. The little stream that -flows through the city is formed into three reservoirs at the upper end -of the ravine, one above the other. When the upper reservoir is filled, -the water overflows into the next below, and that in turn fills the -lower one. From the water thus collected the city and the mills below it -are supplied. When the rainy season begins, the floodgates are open, and -the waters rush in a torrent through the ravine and wash it thoroughly. -This is the only washing it gets until another year comes around; and -you will understand from this that Guanajuato is a very 'smelly' city, -and has a large death-rate. There isn't water enough for a good, healthy -system of sewerage; but this does not trouble the Mexicans very much. - -"In every Mexican town or city we have visited thus far, we have seen -women at the plaza and fountains and encountered troops of donkeys -carrying water. Water-carriers have no occupation here, as the liquid is -supplied through pipes, just as in New York or any other American city. -The concession to establish water-works was given to an enterprising -citizen, Señor Rocha, and he made a good deal of money by the operation. -He built walks and seats all around the reservoirs, and thus gave the -inhabitants an agreeable _paseo_, or promenade. - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN BEGGAR.] - -"Our guide showed us the Castillo del Grenaditas, which is an immense -building like a fortress, and now used as a _carcel_, or prison. It was -built in the early part of this century as a storehouse for grain for -public use in times of scarcity; its walls are several feet thick, and -it has a large court-yard in the centre. It was a place of refuge for -the Spaniards when Hidalgo made his pronunciamento in 1810 and set up a -revolution. Several hundred Spaniards fled to the Castillo and shut -themselves in. They made a vigorous defence, and the attacking force was -steadily repelled. Hidalgo tried many times to reach the gates, but -every time his men attempted it they were shot down. - -"At last an Indian, carrying a flat stone on his back as a shield -against the Spanish bullets, reached the gates and set them on fire. The -stone which he used in this exploit was shown to us, at least one that -purported to be the identical shield. The besiegers rushed in through -the gates, and the castle fell. A year or so afterwards Hidalgo was -captured and executed in Chihuahua. His head and the heads of three of -his companions were brought here and hung on hooks at the four corners -of the building. They were taken down and buried with high honors in -1823, but the hooks are still in position; the one on which Hidalgo's -head was placed was pointed out to us. - -"At almost every step along the streets we were accosted by men who had -all sorts of articles for sale. Shoes, clothing, spurs, cutlery, -rebozos, serapes, and similar things were offered, and the prices seemed -very low; but we were told not to offer more than half what was asked -for anything, and unless we really needed it we had better be careful -about offering anything at all. - -"We were cautioned to be watchful of our pockets, as there are expert -thieves in the city who could steal anything for which they set out. We -saw some grindstones in one of the shops, and asked our guide why they -were chained to the wall and the chains fastened with padlocks. He said -it was because there were men around who would steal them on general -principles. They had no use for them, nor any idea what they were for, -but as they were the heaviest articles to be seen, they were supposed to -be the most valuable! - -[Illustration: OLD CONVENT NOW USED AS BARRACKS.] - -"In the market we saw that the poor people of this mining city are -compelled to be very economical. When meat is not disposed of fresh, it -is dried and sold in that shape. The dried heads of sheep and goats were -piled on the ground to be sold as food; dried with the skin and horns -on, and the people stood around and haggled for them down to the -fraction of a cent. An important article of food here is boiled -_calabazas_, or pumpkins; and another staple of diet is gruel made of -coarse corn-meal. The guide said the head of a sheep or goat or the nose -of a bullock was added on Sunday to this very meagre diet, and the -miners and their families were quite contented with such food. Truly, -one half of the world doesn't know how the other half lives. - -"We were invited to visit one of the schools, but hadn't time to do so -any more than to look at the building as we went past it. A gentleman -whom we talked with told us that the State college is in a flourishing -condition, and has upwards of three hundred students, many of them of -pure Indian blood. Education among the people of Mexico is not very far -advanced, but is better than many people suppose. It has made great -progress in the last twenty years. Before that time it was very -backward, and a considerable part of the population could not read or -write. - -[Illustration: A LEADING CITIZEN.] - -"The Government seems to be thoroughly awake to the necessity of having -its population intelligent, in order to advance the interests of the -country. In all the towns and villages there are free schools supported -by the Government or by the local authorities, and in the cities there -are advanced schools and colleges and a great number of private schools. -Then there are technical and industrial schools, where trades are -taught, and military schools for those who desire a military education -and intend entering the army. In the cities free night schools for men -and women, similar to the night schools of New York and other American -cities, have been established. Some of them are well attended, but that -is not the case with all. - -"All of the Mexican States make liberal appropriations for public -primary schools, and they tell us that last year there was an aggregate -school attendance of 500,000. There must be an equal number of pupils in -the private schools and in schools maintained by churches, missions, and -benevolent societies, so that the whole attendance may be set down as an -even million. Of course this is not up to the standard of the United -States, especially of the northern portion, but it is a great advance -for Mexico, where forty years ago not one person in ten could read. It -is believed that fully one-half of the Mexican people to-day can read -and write, or certainly a large proportion of them. - -"Accompanied by our guide we drove to the Rayas Mine, or rather quite -near it. The administrador met us at his office near the entrance, and -assigned to us a guide who spoke English, though not very well. His -English was better than our Spanish, and as he seemed to prefer it, we -did not try to talk to him in his own tongue. We expected to descend by -a cage in the tiro, but found that the way to the vein was down a stone -staircase. The steps were slippery in places, and we had to be careful -about placing our feet, as any carelessness might result in a fall. -Frank began to quote the old Latin lines about _facilis descensus_, but -our guide said 'chestnoot,' which he said he learned from an American, -and Frank had nothing more to say on the subject. - -[Illustration: PRISONERS BREAKING ORE.] - -"We had a long and tiresome walk through the mine, and the dim light of -the lantern and candles only served to make the darkness visible until -our eyes became accustomed to it. When we reached the vein we were -unable to distinguish the rich ore from the worthless rock in which the -mineral lay, and soon made up our minds that we were as far as possible -from being experts in mining. - -"It was well for us that we laid aside our own clothes and put on some -garments especially intended for the underground excursion, as we were -splashed from head to foot with mud when we came out, and were -sorry-looking spectacles for a photograph gallery. Each of us had a -candle stuck to the top of his hat by a lump of wet clay. Every little -while one of us knocked off his candle, and then there was a halt until -it was adjusted. - -"We saw many of the peons at work, each with a candle fixed in his hat, -the fashion that has prevailed here since the mines were first opened. -Sometimes they were in little groups, who put their earnings into a -general pool, and sometimes they were working singly on spots allotted -to them by the superintendents. The guide told us that the men worked on -shares, half the ore taken out being the property of the owners of the -mine, and half going to the peon. The ore is placed in heaps. The shares -of the miners are sold at auction or private sale, or they may be -reduced and the proceeds turned over to the proper claimants after -taking out the cost of the reduction. The miners generally prefer the -system of direct sales, for the reason that they can more readily obtain -their pay in this manner than by waiting for the reduction of the ore -and extraction of the silver. - -[Illustration: SLOPING LADDERS IN A SILVER MINE.] - -"The hardest part of the work seemed to be the carrying of the bags of -ore up the long flights of slippery steps to the mouth of the mine. From -the lower levels the water is removed by pumping, and in some places it -is carried in pig-skins on the backs of naked Indians to where the pumps -are at work. A pig-skin filled with water on the back of a man climbing -up the sloping steps looked at a little distance like some strange -animal which has not yet been assigned a place in natural history. These -skins have the exact shape of the pig, and are without cut or seam, and -we naturally wondered how they were obtained so nearly whole as they -seemed to be. We had seen them before in the Mexican towns, as they are -in common use by the water-carriers, and one day we asked an American -resident how they skinned pigs in Mexico. - -"'Why,' said he, 'it's easy enough when you know how. They don't give -the pig anything to eat for a couple of days; then they tie him to a -tree by his tail, hold an ear of corn about three feet in front of his -nose, and so coax him out of his skin.' - -"Another man told us that the body of the animal is beaten with a club -till the bones are smashed to pieces, and the flesh reduced to a pulpy -mass, which is then drawn out through the neck, along with the fragments -of bone. This seems more probable than the other process; at any rate, -we give it the preference." - -[Illustration: OPENING A NEW MINE.] - -From the mine our friends went to one of the reduction haciendas, where -they saw the process of extracting silver from the ore, which has been -described on previous pages. There are about fifty reduction-mills at -Guanajuato, some worked by horse or mule power, others by water, and -others by steam. Three kinds of crushers are in use, the Mexican -arastra, the Chilian mill, and the American stamp-mill, all of which -have their advocates, who prefer them to the others. The patio process -is employed here as well as elsewhere, and hundreds of horses and mules -are annually worn out in treading the ores. An American named Parkman -made an improvement on this system by rolling a loaded barrel over and -through the mixture by means of horses or mules walking in a circle, as -in an old-fashioned cider-mill. The barrel mingles the ore and the -chemicals as well as the horses' feet could do it, and the injury to the -hoofs of the animals is prevented, as they do not come in contact with -the mass. Sometimes heavy wheels are used instead of the barrels, and -they are arranged on a graduated scale, so that they move slowly from -centre to circumference of the _torta_, or pulp heap, as they revolve, -and from circumference back to the centre again. In this way the entire -surface is gone over; the reduction of the mass takes from twenty to -thirty days, and is thoroughly done. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF A MINE NOT IN OPERATION.] - -From the hacienda they were taken to the mint, where silver coins are -made in the same manner as in mints in other parts of the world. The -machinery of the mint is of English construction, and several Englishmen -are or were connected with the establishment to superintend the more -delicate parts of the apparatus. From the mint they went to a hill -called the Cerro de San Miguel, which gave them an excellent view of the -city and the hills that surround it. The number of elegant residences in -sight convinced them that there is yet a great deal of wealth in -Guanajuato, notwithstanding the decline in the yield of silver from the -mines. - -The next stop in the journey towards the capital was made at Queretaro, -eighty-five miles from Silao, or one hundred from Guanajuato. It is a -city of from fifty to sixty thousand inhabitants; it has no mines on -which to base its prosperity, but is devoted to manufacturing, having -been famous for 200 years and more for its production of cotton goods. -The largest cotton-mill in Mexico is at Queretaro; it is known as the -Hercules, and stands in a ravine, about two miles from the city. It was -built by Señor Rubio, is enclosed by a high wall loop-holed for -musketry, and could stand an ordinary siege very fairly, provided the -besiegers brought no cannon. A defensive force of forty soldiers is -maintained at the mills, and they are armed with rifles and howitzers. - -[Illustration: A COTTON FACTORY, QUERETARO.] - -The Hercules mill employs about fifteen hundred operatives, all -Mexicans, with the exception of a few foreigners to look after the -general management of details and keep the machinery in order. Not far -from it is a smaller and older mill, which is surrounded with pretty -gardens that require a considerable annual expenditure to keep them in -order. Frank thought he would commend the plan to American mill-owners, -and suggest the addition of gardens to their establishments; Fred was of -opinion that the manufacturers of Lawrence and Fall River would not look -favorably upon the suggestion, as they were much more interested in -making the best possible showing in their bank accounts than in -beautifying their surroundings. - -The Queretaro mills are chiefly employed in turning out _manta_, a -variety of cheap cotton cloth, out of which the garments of the lower -classes of the population are made. The Hercules mill makes 6000 pieces -of cloth thirty yards long every week, and it pays the weavers about one -cent a yard. The employés make from two and a half to five dollars -weekly, and are furnished with lodgings, at very low rentals, close to -the mills. They work from 6 A.M. to 9.30 P.M., with half an hour's -intermission for breakfast, and an hour for dinner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -AQUEDUCT AT QUERETARO.--THE RESULT OF A BANTER.--THE HILL OF THE -BELLS.--PLACE WHERE MAXIMILIAN WAS SHOT.--REVOLUTIONS IN -MEXICO.--FOREIGN INTERVENTION.--MAXIMILIAN BECOMES EMPEROR.--THE "BLACK -DECREE."--WITHDRAWAL OF FRENCH TROOPS FROM MEXICO.--MAXIMILIAN'S DEFEAT, -CAPTURE, AND DEATH.--HOW A FRENCH NEWSPAPER CIRCUMVENTED THE -LAWS.--PRONUNCIAMENTOS.--JUAREZ AS PRESIDENT.--THE ABRAHAM LINCOLN OF -MEXICO.--A WONDERFUL PROPHECY.--PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF JUAREZ.--RELIGION -IN MEXICO.--FORMER POWER OF THE CATHOLIC CHURCH.--THE LAWS OF THE -REFORM.--PROTESTANT CHURCHES AND PROTESTANT WORK.--MISSIONARY -MARTYRS.--MURDER OF REV. J. L. STEPHENS.--RELIGIOUS AFFAIRS AT PRESENT. - - -[Illustration: AQUEDUCT OF QUERETARO.] - -One of the first things to attract the attention of the youths was the -aqueduct by which Queretaro is supplied with water. They learned on -inquiry that it was built by one of the citizens at an expense of half a -million dollars; the story goes that it was the result of a banter -between him and another wealthy Mexican, one offering to supply the city -with water if the other would build a shrine and saint of solid silver. -The offer was accepted, and the agreement carried out by both parties. - -The water comes from a mountain stream five miles from the city, and is -brought through a tunnel, and afterwards along a series of arches, some -of which are ninety feet high. It was finished in 1738, and has ever -since supplied Queretaro with an abundance of water. - -[Illustration: Church of the Cross. Hill of the Bells. - -QUERETARO.] - -The most interesting sight of Queretaro is the Cerro de las Campanas, or -Hill of the Bells, and thither our friends proceeded as soon as they had -partaken of the mid-day meal, which was ready on their arrival at the -hotel. There is a fine view from the hill, and they greatly enjoyed it; -but they were more interested in the spot where the last Mexican empire -came to an end. Three black crosses mark the place where Maximilian and -his generals, Miramon and Mejia, were shot on the morning of the 19th of -June, 1867. This was the last scene in the drama of the imperial -monarchy which Louis Napoleon sought to found in North America at the -time of the American Civil-War. - -Frank and Fred had already familiarized themselves with the history of -Maximilian's career in Mexico. Frank had committed a portion of the -story to paper, and with Fred's assistance it was completed during their -stay at Queretaro, and mailed homeward with their next batch of letters. -Here it is: - -"From the time Mexico established her independence of Spain down to -1860, there was a bitter hostility between the two parties into which -the influential portion of the population was divided--the Conservative -or Church party, and the Liberals. The Conservatives represented the -Catholic Church, whose religion was brought to Mexico by the priests -that accompanied Cortez and sought to convert the people from paganism. -They succeeded in great measure, and as long as the Spaniards were in -power the Church was in full control. It possessed a great part of the -wealth of the country; the most moderate estimate is that one-fourth of -all the property in the country belonged to the Church, and some -authorities say that the proportion was far greater. - -"When independence was established, the Liberals began active opposition -to the Church party, and the country was hardly ever at peace from one -end to the other. Revolutions followed each other with great rapidity. -Several Presidents were not allowed to enter upon the duties of their -office at all, and the first President to complete the full term for -which he was elected was Benito Juarez. Historians are not agreed as to -the number of revolutions that have taken place in Mexico; but it is -safe to say that they were not fewer than thirty-six in the limit of -forty years, most of them being accompanied by bloodshed. In that period -there were no less than seventy-three rulers, nearly all of them -exercising very brief authority, and some none at all. - -"As time went on, the hostility of the Church and Liberal parties to -each other grew more and more bitter, till it culminated in the War of -the Reform, between 1855 and 1858. In 1859 President Juarez proclaimed -the famous Laws of the Reform, which forbade priests to appear in public -wearing their robes of office, suppressed the monasteries and convents, -and gave the property of the Church to the Government. The value of this -property is said to have been more than $300,000,000. The Liberal army -captured the capital city six months after the proclamation of these -laws, and they were immediately put in operation, and with great -severity. - -"The country was deeply in debt, and in 1861 the Liberal Congress passed -a law suspending payment of the interest on its foreign debt. This gave -England, France, and Spain an excuse for sending a naval and military -force to Mexico; they captured Vera Cruz, and then an arrangement was -made which caused the withdrawal of England and Spain; but France -remained, and was evidently determined to conquer the country. The -French advanced towards the capital, which they captured June 9, 1863. -There were 40,000 French troops in Mexico, and they were joined by a -Mexican force which was in the interest of the Church party. - -"In July a congress of Mexican notables proclaimed that the Government -of Mexico should be an hereditary monarchy, under a Catholic prince, and -offered the crown to Maximilian, brother of the Emperor of Austria. -Maximilian accepted the offer, and came to Mexico with his wife, -Carlotta; they arrived in July, 1864, and were crowned Emperor and -Empress of Mexico, in the great cathedral of the capital city. The -Emperor selected Chapultepec as his imperial residence; a fine avenue -was laid out from the castle to the city, trees were planted, streets -were improved, and for a short time it seemed as if peace and prosperity -were coming to Mexico. - -"Juarez was still President of the Republic; he and his army were driven -far to the north, but they continued to fight, and in October, 1865, -Maximilian signed an order which became known as the 'Black Decree,' -condemning all Republican officers captured in battle to be shot as -brigands. Many of them, including several generals and colonels, were -shot accordingly, and this act exasperated the people. - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN CAVALRY SOLDIER.] - -"The American Civil War had ended; the United States Government put -60,000 troops along the western frontier of Texas, and then intimated -that the French forces must be withdrawn from Mexico. The diplomatic -correspondence lasted six months, and our Government threatened armed -intervention unless the French troops were recalled. They were -withdrawn; Maximilian had no foreign support, and his own army could not -cope successfully with the Republican forces. Juarez, with his army, -advanced towards the south, and the Imperial army marched to meet him, -and was defeated. A Republican army, under General Diaz, captured -Puebla, and put the Imperialists to flight. - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN INFANTRY SOLDIER.] - -"Carlotta went to France, and vainly besought Louis Napoleon to continue -his aid and keep a French army in Mexico. Then she asked the Pope to -exercise his influence, and finding that was of no use, she became -hopelessly insane. Maximilian started for the coast, intending to leave -the country; unwisely for himself, he changed his plans, and joined -General Miramon at Queretaro, where there were 5000 Imperial troops. -Queretaro was besieged by 20,000 troops, under General Escobedo; the -siege lasted two months, and ended on the 15th of May, when the key of -the position was captured, and the Emperor and his army surrendered. The -Emperor was taken on the Hill of the Bells, the very spot where he was -afterwards shot by order of the court-martial which condemned him to -death." - -[Illustration: LINE OF DEFENCE HELD BY MAXIMILIAN DURING THE SIEGE.] - -"A very concise history of the events of that time," said Doctor -Bronson, when Frank paused in reading their joint production; "have you -anything more to add to it?" - -"Yes, sir, we have," was the reply. "We have thought that the story of -the court-martial, and the last days and hours of Maximilian, would be -interesting, and ought to form a part of our narrative." - -"That is quite right," the Doctor answered, "and if you have not -finished it I will hear it some other time." - -On a subsequent occasion Fred presented the following, which was -heartily approved by Doctor Bronson as deserving a place in the -narrative of their journey through Mexico: - -"Maximilian was condemned to death on account of the 'Black Decree,' and -the officers who had carried out his orders were sentenced to the same -fate. The wife of General Miramon went to San Luis Potosi to intercede -with President Juarez for her husband's life. The Princess Salm-Salm -went at the same time to do a similar service for Maximilian. The -princess, in the account of her interview, says: 'I saw the President -was moved; he had tears in his eyes, but he assured me in a low, sad -voice, "I am grieved, madame, to see you thus on your knees before me, -but if all the kings and queens of Europe were in your place, I could -not spare that life. It is not I who take it, it is the people and the -law; and if I should not do its will, the people would take it, and mine -also."' - -"Miramon's wife told a similar story about the wish of the President to -be merciful and reprieve her husband. She says he was wavering when his -Minister of Foreign Affairs said, 'It is to-day or never that you will -consolidate the peace of the republic.' Then the President told her as -gently as he could that it was impossible to grant her request. - -"The Government of the United States asked that Maximilian's life be -spared, and the Emperor of Austria sent a similar request, but all to no -purpose. On the morning of the execution Maximilian rode in a coach with -his confessor from the prison to the Hill of the Bells, and Miramon and -Mejia, with their confessors, followed in another coach. An adobe wall -had been built up for the occasion, and the three men were placed in -front of it, and about ten paces from the firing party. Maximilian held -a crucifix in his hand, and looked intently upon it as the order to fire -was given. The President caused the remains of the ill-fated Emperor to -be carefully coffined, and they were sent home to Austria for interment -in the Imperial vault of the Hapsburgs. - -"President Juarez entered the city of Mexico on the 15th of July, less -than a month after Maximilian's death, and carried with him a train of -provisions for the relief of the suffering inhabitants. Great leniency -was shown to all who had served under Maximilian; nineteen of the -officers who had committed crimes or deserted from the Republican army -were shot, others were imprisoned, and some were ordered to leave the -country under pain of imprisonment in case they returned. The rank and -file of the soldiery were sent to their homes or incorporated into the -national army, and the President did everything in his power to bring -peace to the country; and since that time Mexico has been a peaceful -land compared with what it had been for the preceding forty years." - -When Fred completed the reading of his story Doctor Bronson said he was -reminded of an incident that happened at the time of the execution of -Maximilian. - -"I was in Paris," said he, "when the news came that the execution had -taken place. The French papers were not allowed to make any comment upon -the affair, except to execrate it and denounce the Mexicans in the -bitterest terms. Louis Napoleon would have caused the immediate -suspension of any paper that uttered a word in sympathy with the acts of -Juarez. - -"One of the liberal papers managed very skilfully to get around the -prohibition. It printed the telegram announcing that Maximilian had -been shot by order of a Mexican court-martial, and directly beneath the -telegram it printed the 'Black Decree' of October, 1865, to which you -have alluded, and with it two letters written by Maximilian's victims -just before they were led to execution. The decree and the letters were -copied from the French official newspapers, and therefore they could be -printed without risk of interference. There was not a word of editorial -comment, nor was any needed." - -"We said there had been peace in Mexico since the fall of the Empire," -continued Fred, "but our words deserve to be qualified. There have been -disturbances at different times and in various parts of the country. In -1871 there was something that almost threatened civil war in the shape -of a pronunciamento by General Diaz, and for a while things had a -serious aspect. General Diaz did not like the election of Juarez for a -third time; he proposed an assembly of notables to reorganize the -government, and that he (Diaz) should be commander-in-chief of the army -until the assembly had done its work. This would have been practically -equivalent to making him President, but the whole scheme was ended by -the sudden death of Juarez in July, 1872. - -"Lerdo de Tejado then became President, and for three years everything -was peaceful. Then came another revolution, which drove Lerdo from the -capital and installed Diaz in the Presidential chair. At the end of his -term Diaz was succeeded by General Gonzales, who was a poor man when he -became President, and a very rich one when he left the office. He left -it peaceably, and was succeeded, December 1, 1884, by Diaz, who has -shown himself a man of ability, and has managed the affairs of the -country very creditably. - -"There you have Mexican history boiled down," said Fred. "Perhaps it may -be tedious to some of the boys at home, and if it is, they know how to -skip." - -The conversation that followed this reading naturally turned upon -Mexican affairs. Doctor Bronson signified his readiness to answer any -questions the youths might ask, or, if he did not know the correct -answers, he would try to tell them where the desired information could -be obtained. - -"President Juarez was a native of Mexico, and not of Spanish descent, -was he not?" Frank asked. - -[Illustration: FIRST PROTESTANT CHURCH IN MEXICO.] - -"Yes," said the Doctor; "he was a full-blooded Indian, his parents -having been people in very humble circumstances. He has been called the -Washington or the Lincoln of Mexico; to him Mexico owes the Laws of the -Reform and the concessions that have brought railways into the country -and opened it up to commercial relations with the rest of the world. He -was the first Protestant President of the country, all his predecessors -having been of the Catholic faith. He is described by those who knew him -as a man rather below the average height, stoutly built without being -corpulent, exceedingly plain in dress, but always fastidiously neat. -Ordinarily he wore a dress-coat of black broadcloth, with other garments -to match, and on state occasions he substituted white gloves and cravat -for the every-day black ones. He used to ride in a plain coach, with no -liveried servants, which was quite a contrast to the grand turnout of -Maximilian, who had a state carriage like that of Louis XIV. - -"His complexion was Indian, and so were his features; his eyes were -small and black, and his face, which was always clean-shaven, bore an -expression of great firmness. He was not talkative, and was the same -determined, silent man in prosperity as in adversity. His faith in the -success of the republic was never shaken, even when he was living in an -adobe hut on the banks of the Rio Grande, with less than 500 followers, -and a reward offered by Maximilian for his head. When he arrived at El -Paso del Norte he was accompanied by only twenty-two friends, who have -since been called 'the immaculate.' - -"I have read somewhere,"[4] continued the Doctor, "a curious story -connected with his history. When Mexico was conquered by the Spaniards, -a priest of the Aztec temple at Taos, in New Mexico, kindled a fire upon -its altar, and planted a tree in front of the edifice. He prophesied -that when the tree died a new white race would come from the East and -conquer the land, and when the fire went out a new Montezuma would arise -and rule Mexico. The tree died in 1846, during our war with Mexico, and -the fire went out when the last of the Aztec priests of Taos died, in -the year that Juarez became President." - -[4] In "Our Sister Republic," by Albert S. Evans, p. 305. - -[Illustration: PUEBLO AT TAOS, NEW MEXICO.] - -"Was he ever imprisoned or banished, like the most of the leading men of -Mexico?" Frank asked. - -"Yes," was the reply. "He was a native of the State of Oajaca, where he -was educated in a seminary and studied law; he graduated with high -honors at the college, and for some years held the chair of natural -philosophy in that institution. In 1836, when he was thirty years old, -he was imprisoned by the Conservatives on account of his Liberal -principles. After his release he became Chief-judge of the Republic, and -held several other offices until 1853, when he was imprisoned and -banished by General Santa Anna, and lived two years in the United -States, suffering severe privations. Events brought him into Mexico -again, and from that time he did not leave the country until his death. -He was imprisoned a third time, in 1857, by Comonfort, but only for a -short while." - -"We have mentioned the Laws of the Reform, which were proclaimed by -President Juarez and caused the appropriation of the property of the -Church by the Government. Did the Church have much property besides the -convents, cathedrals, and Church buildings generally?" - -[Illustration: GARDEN OF A MEXICAN CONVENT.] - -"A great deal more than those," the Doctor answered. "The Church owned -real estate in vast extent both in the cities and the rural districts, -and some people say more than half the dwelling-houses in the city of -Mexico belonged to it. It had the reputation of being a very generous -landlord, as it rented its houses at a lower rate than similar property -could be had from private owners. On this subject I will quote from an -English writer who spent some time in Mexico a few years ago." - -Thereupon Doctor Bronson read the following from "Mexico To-day," by -Thomas U. Brocklehurst: - - "'The Church of Mexico has been all-powerful since its - commencement; it may be said to be the Government, the magistracy, - the army, and the master of the homes. Everything in Mexico has - been subservient to its dictatura. The priesthood has been entirely - free from the national courts of law, they have had courts of their - own, and the _fueros_, or privileges of the ecclesiastics, placed - them entirely beyond the reach of secular power. They levied taxes - and tithes of everybody and everything they had a mind to. The - extent to which the clergy accumulated wealth is almost incredible; - they are said to have possessed three-fourths of the whole property - of the country, consisting of lands and other real estate, rents, - mortgages, conventual buildings, and church ornaments. Moreover, - there were no bankers in Mexico except the clergy, so they had - complete power over the estates as well as the souls of the people. - - "'In 1850 Señor Lerdo de Tejara, Minister of Public Works, - published a statistical account of the revenues and endowments of - the Church, with the numbers of the clergy, monks, nuns, and - servants connected with the religious establishments. The details - he gives, like the evidence of the existing churches, and the - remains of the disused ones all over the country, quite support his - statement that the Church was possessed of three-fourths of the - property of the State.' - -"Another writer," continued Doctor Bronson, "says that the property of -the Church included about 900 rural estates and 25,000 blocks of city -property. When this property was confiscated and sold, the Church -authorities warned all good Catholics not to invest in it. The result -was that it went at very low prices, and fell into the hands of those -who cared nothing for the religion of the former owners. The Church -people probably see by this time that they made a mistake. Had they -allowed Catholics to buy the confiscated property, they could have got -it back again into their own hands with very little trouble, and at a -small valuation. Dwelling-houses, shops, and all sorts of ordinary -buildings, along with the rural estates and the convents, have been sold -for secular purposes, but the church edifices proper are permitted to -remain in the hands of their former authorities, and services go on -there without interruption. The Laws of the Reform allow freedom of -religious worship, and a Catholic has the same protection as the -adherent of any other faith." - -"Were there any Protestant churches in Mexico before the Laws of the -Reform were proclaimed?" Fred asked. - -"No," was the reply; "the Catholic Church did not permit them to exist -any more than the Puritans allowed a Quaker in their midst in the early -days of the Plymouth Colony. Human nature is the same all the world -over, and any religious body that has supreme control of a country is -pretty certain to exercise its power. You know the old explanation of -the difference between religion and superstition?" - -"What is that?" - -"Religion is what we believe; superstition is what others believe." - -The boys laughed, and said they had heard the definition before. Then -the Doctor continued: - -[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE FIRST METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, CITY OF -MEXICO.] - -"The Laws of the Reform tolerated all religions, and guaranteed freedom -of public worship. During the Mexican War our army was followed by -colporteurs, who distributed tracts and did other religious work. They -followed the example of the priests who accompanied Cortez, but, unlike -them, they did not succeed in converting the population. Missionary work -was begun by the American Baptists in 1863, and followed shortly after -by the Methodists, Congregationalists, and Presbyterians. There was much -opposition on the part of some of the priests, and in several instances -their ignorant followers were incited to hostility. You must remember -that the Mexican priests are not as intelligent, taken as a body, as the -Catholic priests of the United States; and understanding this, you will -not wonder at the open hostility displayed towards all other forms of -religion. - -[Illustration: REV. JOHN L. STEPHENS, A MARTYR MISSIONARY.] - -"In the early days of the Protestant missions the missionaries in Mexico -entered upon their duties at the risk of their lives. In 1872 a -missionary and his wife settled in Guadalajara. During the first few -weeks of their residence in the place they were stoned whenever they -appeared on the streets. The Governor came to their aid, and in time the -prejudice against them wore away. In November of the same year another -missionary, Rev. John L. Stephens, settled in Ahualuco, a town of five -thousand inhabitants, ninety miles from Guadalajara, and began his work. -On the 2d of the following March, at two o'clock in the morning, his -house was attacked, and he was murdered with a brutality which could not -have been excelled by Apaches or Sioux. One of his converts was killed -at the same time, and others barely escaped with their lives. - -[Illustration: IN THE CATHEDRAL.] - -"There have been other martyrs, and many cases of persecution. Hostility -has not ceased, but it is greatly diminished, and the Protestants have -obtained a foothold in Mexico. There are not far from 300 Protestant -congregations in the country, with 15,000 communicants and 30,000 -adherents. There are about 100 foreign missionaries, many of them -accompanied by their wives; as many more ordained native ministers; and -twice that number of unordained native helpers. There are many day, -Sunday, and theological schools, which have been established by the -missionaries; and there are printing establishments, which are sending -out religious matter for all who are willing to read it. There are more -than fifty church edifices, some of them built expressly for the -purpose, the others being old structures altered for Protestant use." - -[Illustration: MEXICAN PRIESTS.] - -In closing this talk on religious matters, Doctor Bronson remarked that -it would take many years for the quarrels between the Church party and -the Liberals to come to an end; but in the mean while Mexico would -continue on her progressive way, and all her friends, of whatever creed, -would be encouraged to hope for the best results. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -FROM QUERETARO TO THE CAPITAL.--PLAIN OF THE CAZADERO.--TULA.--THE GREAT -SPANISH DRAINAGE-CUT.--DISASTROUS INUNDATIONS OF MEXICO CITY.--A PUZZLE -FOR ENGINEERS.--ARRIVAL AT THE CAPITAL.--HOTEL LIFE.--RESTAURANTS, AND -THE MODE OF LIVING.--AMUSING STORIES OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT.--_FONDAS_ AND -_FONDITAS_.--MEN FOR CHAMBER-MAIDS.--_ALMUERZO_.--A MORNING STROLL ALONG -THE STREETS.--WOMEN ON THEIR WAY TO MASS.--THE MANTILLA.--SELLERS OF -SACRED THINGS.--DEALERS IN LOTTERY TICKETS.--LOTTERIES RUN BY -GOVERNMENT.--ATTENDING A DRAWING.--HOW THE AFFAIR WAS -CONDUCTED.--FLOWER-SELLERS. - - -From Queretaro to the City of Mexico is a distance of 150 miles. The -route of the railway lies through a region which is excellent both for -agriculture and stock raising. Frank and Fred wished to stop at one of -the cattle haciendas, but the Doctor said they would have an opportunity -to see one of these establishments at a later date; so they continued to -the capital without making a halt after leaving Queretaro. - -[Illustration: COMPARATIVE LEVEL OF LAKES.] - -They crossed the plain of the Cazadero, which obtains its name from an -incident of the Conquest. About the year 1540 the Indians organized a -great _cazadero_ (hunt) on this plain, to show their good-will towards -the first viceroy, Don Antonio de Mendoza. A great number of them -assembled, and the game was driven in from all directions and duly -slaughtered by the viceroy and his friends. Hunts of this sort are of -very ancient date; they are practised by aborigines in all parts of the -world, and even civilized man does not disdain them. Of the civilized -class are the kangaroo hunts in Australia, elephant hunts in Ceylon and -India, and the chase of wolves and other noxious animals in the Western -States of North America and in the Siberian provinces of Russia. - -At the edge of the plain of the Cazadero the train reached the foot of -the mountain chain that surrounds the valley of Mexico. The locomotive -breathed heavily as it ascended the slope dragging its burden behind it. -The speed was materially reduced from that by which the plain had been -traversed, and the reduction showed very plainly that the grade was -steep. Every turn in the road gave a picturesque view, and the youths -thoroughly enjoyed their ride towards the famous valley. - -[Illustration: THE GREAT SPANISH DRAINAGE-CUT.] - -The top of the ascent was reached at Tula, of which we shall have -something to say later on. Then the train entered a gorge, which Frank -and Fred specially wished to look at. It was the Tajo de Nochistongo, -the great Spanish drainage-cut, which was intended to save the city of -Mexico from inundation. - -From the windows of the car they shuddered as they looked into the cut, -and wondered if never an accident had happened from the falling away of -the earth. The cut is twelve and a half miles in length, and is the work -of human hands, not of nature. The railway enters the valley of Mexico -through this cut, and the track is laid on a shelf or bench along its -sides and high above the bottom. Our friends visited it a few days -later, and we will here include Frank's account of what he saw and -heard. - -"The city of Mexico stands in a valley which has no outlet, the water -that accumulates from the rains being evaporated by the heat of the sun -or absorbed in the volcanic soil. The city is in the lowest part of the -valley, and is therefore liable to be overflowed whenever the -evaporation and absorption are not sufficient to carry off the water -that accumulates. There are several lakes that cover a tenth part of the -area of the valley. The lowest of them is salt, as it has no outlet, but -the others which discharge into it are fresh. This salt lake is called -Tezcoco. It has an area of seventy-seven square miles, and its surface -ordinarily is only two feet lower than the level of the Plaza Mayor, or -great square of the city. In the days of the Aztecs the lake surrounded -the city, but it is now three miles away from it, owing to the recession -of the waters. Lake Chalco is three and a half feet higher than Tezcoco; -while Zumpango, the most northerly of all the lakes, is twenty-nine feet -higher than the Plaza Mayor. The lakes are separated by dikes, some of -which were built by the Aztecs before the arrival of the Spaniards, but -the greater number are of more recent construction, as we shall -presently see. - -"Now, it is evident that an unusual flood of water could raise Tezcoco -so that it would flood the city, and this is what has happened on five -different occasions--in 1553, 1580, 1604, 1607, and 1629. The last -inundation continued for five years, and caused an immense amount of -suffering and loss. The city was covered to a depth of three feet, and -the waters were finally carried off by an earthquake, which allowed them -to run away through the crevices that it formed. - -"Here's where we come to the history of the great cut of Nochistongo. -The Spanish Government consulted all the celebrated engineers of the -day, and they presented numerous plans for draining the city and -keeping it out of danger from inundations. Enrico Martinez presented the -plan which was adopted. It was to drain Lake Zumpango so that its waters -would not be poured into Tezcoco, but would run to the Gulf of Mexico by -way of Tula. For this purpose he proposed to make a tunnel through -Nochistongo, to carry off the superfluous water of Zumpango, or, rather, -of the river Cuatitlan, which flows into it. - -[Illustration: YOUNG GIRLS OF TULA.] - -"The tunnel was commenced in November, 1607, but when completed it was -found insufficient to drain the lake, and a new plan was needed. A Dutch -engineer was then brought in, and he naturally proposed a system of -dikes, similar to those of his own country and the dikes already built -by the Aztecs. He was allowed to carry out his scheme until the arrival -of a new viceroy in 1628. The new viceroy would not believe the accounts -which he heard of the floods that had occurred, and he ordered Martinez -to stop up the tunnel and allow the waters to take their original -course. He was soon convinced of his error, and ordered the tunnel to be -reopened. It was reopened and continued in use until the following June, -when Martinez found that it was being destroyed by the pressure of the -water, and he therefore closed it to save it from ruin. A disastrous -flood followed, and this was the one that lasted five years." - -"How did the people get around in that time?" Fred asked. - -"They were forced to use boats," was the reply; "but the getting about -was the least part of the trouble caused by the flood. Most of the -houses were of adobe, and these soon crumbled and fell. The loss was so -great that the Spanish Government ordered the site of the city to be -changed to higher ground, but on representations by the City Council of -the value of the permanent structures which would thus be rendered -useless, the order was countermanded. The city was restored after the -subsidence of the waters. It has been threatened several times since, -but though it has been in great danger the cut and the dikes have saved -it." - -"But how about the making of the tunnel into a cut?" - -"They put Martinez in prison as soon as the flood came, and he was kept -there for several years. Then it was determined to change the tunnel -into a cut, and he was released and put in charge of the work. It took -150 years to make it, and though nominally finished in 1789, it has -never been entirely completed. Thousands of Indians died during the work -of digging this enormous ditch. It was the greatest earthwork of its -time, and in fact the greatest down to the cutting of the Suez and -Panama canals. Here are the figures: - -"Length of the cut, 67,537 feet; greatest depth, 197 feet; greatest -breadth, 361 feet. The original tunnel of Martinez was four miles long, -eleven and a half feet wide, and fourteen feet high. Portions of the old -tunnel, or rather of its ruins, are visible to-day. There is a monument -to the memory of Martinez, which was erected a few years ago in one of -the public squares of the capital city; it might possibly console him -for his five years in prison if he could only come around and look at -it." - -[Illustration: ENVIRONS OF MEXICO.] - -As Frank paused, Doctor Bronson took up the subject and said that even -with the waters of Zumpango drained away there was still a liability of -the overflow of the lower lakes. He added that numerous projects had -been proposed. Some engineers were in favor of drying up Tezcoco -altogether by turning away the waters that flow into it; others advised -draining the waters into a lower part of the valley, if such could be -found; and others again proposed a long and large tunnel through the -mountains at so low a level that Tezcoco and the city could be -thoroughly drained. To this should be added a canal from the upper lakes -to flow through the city and wash out its sewers. - -"What will be done about it no one can safely predict," the Doctor -remarked. "The city is badly drained, its sewage is only partially -carried away, and such of it as the water removes is accumulated in Lake -Tezcoco, which is becoming dirtier and more shallow every year. No plan -has been proposed that has been pronounced successful, or to which there -is not a serious objection. Of course almost anything could be done with -unlimited money, but Mexico, like other cities and countries, has a -limit to the amount that might be expended for any given purpose." - -The smells that greeted the nostrils of the youths on their arrival at -the capital convinced them that the drainage of Mexico is little better -than no drainage at all. Fred remarked that if it were anywhere else -than in the very high region where it is (7602 feet above the sea), it -would have no need of drainage, as all the inhabitants would die of -pestilence. - -Emerging from the famous earth-cutting, our friends had their first view -of the snowy peaks of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, the great volcanoes -which lie to the east of the city of Mexico. They had read and heard -much of these famous mountains, and had formed many mental pictures of -them. To the credit of the volcanoes, it is proper to say that they -fully came up to the expectations which had been formed of them. - -The train sped on over the comparatively level region of the valley. For -several miles the Mexican Central Railway lies parallel to the Mexican -National line, and as there happened to be a train on the other track, -the passengers had the exhilaration of a race as a concluding feature of -their journey. - -They had left Queretaro a little before noon; it was seven o'clock in -the evening when the train rolled into the Buena Vista station outside -the city, and the journey over the Mexican Central Railway came to an -end. - -Doctor Bronson had telegraphed for a courier from the Hotel del Jardin -to meet them at the station, and the man was there in accordance with -his request. The key of one of the trunks was given up to meet the -requirements of the local custom-house, after the manner of the _octroi_ -of Paris and other Continental cities. Our friends had found this -regulation at all the towns where they had stopped on their route, but -the trunks had invariably been passed without being opened, on the -assurance that they contained no merchandise. - -The Hotel del Jardin proved to be quite satisfactory, so far as the -rooms were concerned, but there was not much to be said in favor of the -supper to which the travellers sat down, after removing the dust from -their garments and making themselves generally presentable. The boys -ascertained on inquiry that the hotel was built around the garden of an -old convent, and that a portion of it was really the convent edifice. -Some of the rooms are the former cells of the monks, and the youths -concluded that the monks were very comfortably lodged. - -[Illustration: A MEMBER OF THE CHURCH PARTY.] - -If all stories, or even a quarter of those that are told, are true, the -Mexican monks had an easy life of it whenever so inclined. No one doubts -that there were many honest and conscientious men among them, but there -is also little, if any, room for doubt that a great many men entered the -monasteries with hardly a spark of religious feeling about them, solely -for the purpose of getting a living without working for it. The number -of idlers among them was fully equal to the proportion to be found in -the ministry of the Church of England. A union of Church and State, -whether Protestant or Catholic, is certain to develop a large number of -adherents, who live in idleness at the expense of others, and bring -discredit upon honest and zealous workers. - -During their stay in the city of Mexico our friends found that it was -the better plan not to stipulate to take their meals in the hotel where -they had their rooms. They breakfasted, dined, and supped wherever they -pleased, and found the arrangement very satisfactory. In this way they -tried all the restaurants, from the most pretentious to those of the -second and third grades, and found the experiment an interesting one. -Here are Fred's notes upon hotel life in the capital: - -"We have visited all the hotels, and find them pretty much alike. As far -as we can ascertain, we could not improve our condition by changing from -the Hotel del Jardin, and so have concluded to stay where we are. We -have dropped somewhat into the fashion of the country--you know we -always do so when it is at all possible--but not altogether. We rise -about six in the morning, and have chocolate and a roll or two at seven, -and then we go out sight-seeing, shopping, or write letters until -eleven, when we have _almuerzo_, which is a solid meal corresponding to -the French _déjeûner à la fourchette_. So far we are in the line of the -Mexicans; this is their only solid meal, and late in the day they have -chocolate and some light refreshment just before going to theatre or -opera. We have so long been accustomed to at least two meals a day that -we take a second one similar to the almuerzo somewhere about six -o'clock. They tell us that it would not have been easy to obtain this -second meal ten or fifteen years ago, but so many foreigners have come -here of late that the restaurants are accustomed to it, especially those -patronized by foreigners. - -[Illustration: TRANSCONTINENTAL PROFILE OF MEXICO.] - -"They tell some funny stories about the hotel customs here. One is that -the advance agent of an excursion party went to a hotel and asked the -price of rooms. - -"'Two dollars a day,' was the reply. - -"'I have a party of sixty people,' said the agent; 'what terms will you -make?' - -"'It will be two dollars and a quarter a day for each one,' said the -landlord; 'sixty people will make a great deal of trouble.' - -"Another story was told by a gentleman who came to the city some years -ago and met a friend who had arrived one day before him. They left -together, and when they came to settle their bills the one who came -first, and had been there fourteen days, was charged for two weeks, at -ten dollars a week, twenty dollars. The other was charged two dollars -per day for thirteen days, twenty-six dollars. He protested, and in -reply to his protest the landlord explained that when a patron was there -fourteen days or more he was allowed weekly terms, but under fourteen -days he must pay by the day. 'Stay here another day,' said the landlord, -'and your bill will be twenty dollars.' - -"'Very well,' the stranger answered; 'I'll hold my room till to-morrow, -but as I have the money in my hand I may as well pay you now.' - -"The landlord accepted the money, made out a bill for twenty dollars, -and receipted it. But when he found the gentleman was really going away -immediately, he protested that the stranger would not be entitled to -weekly rates unless he actually occupied his room that night! - -[Illustration: INTERIOR COURT-YARD OF A MEXICAN HOTEL.] - -"All the chamber-maids here are men; we have an Indian mozo to look -after our rooms, and have not seen a woman about the house since we came -here, either as house-keeper, chamber-maid, or laundress. On each floor -there is a _muchacho_, who takes charge of the keys and is supposed to -be responsible for the safety of our belongings; and I'm glad to say we -have lost nothing during our stay. The mozo and muchacho both expect a -financial remembrance, and so do the waiters in the restaurants. Their -expectations are very reasonable, and they receive their gratuities with -a quiet dignity that is far preferable to the manner of the attendants -of hotels and restaurants in London or Paris. - -[Illustration: STREET VIEW IN THE CAPITAL.] - -"The almuerzo, which I mentioned as the heavy meal of the day, is so -important that the business houses and banks close from noon till -half-past two or three o'clock,' when everybody is taking breakfast, -dinner, and supper all in one. It is necessary to transact in the -forenoon any business that you have to do, as it is not at all certain -that men will get back to their offices again in the afternoon. The -leisurely ways of the Mexicans are not at all satisfactory to the -impetuous citizen from the Northern States of the Union. - -"The prices of the restaurants seem to us not much, if any, behind those -of Europe and of New York and Chicago. The _table-d'hôte_ dinner at the -best restaurants is one dollar, and sometimes more; but we have found a -restaurant, the Café Anglais, where the head-waiter speaks English, and -the manager seems to be specially desirous of attracting American -custom. At this restaurant the charge is one real for the seven o'clock -breakfast of chocolate and bread, and five reals for the eleven o'clock -breakfast; dinner is five reals; and all three of the meals are -furnished for thirty dollars a month, or one dollar a day. Of course we -do not want board by the month, nor to go among Americans, whom we did -not come here to see; we have been eating Mexican dishes at the -_fondas_, and for four reals have had excellent meals. _Fonda_ means -restaurant, and _fondita_ means café; fonda also means hotel, and a -hotel for travellers only. There is another kind of hotel or inn, for -horned cattle and horses as well as for human beings; establishments of -this kind are called _mesones_ or _posadas_." - -[Illustration: ON THE WAY TO MORNING MASS.] - -Bright and early on the morning following their arrival the youths were -out to see the sights of the Mexican capital. They did not wait for the -early breakfast, but on hearing the bell from a neighboring church tower -they sallied forth in time to see the streets filled with people on -their way to morning mass. Fred made note of the fact that women seemed -to be very much in the majority, and he was not surprised to learn -afterwards, in conversation with a gentleman who resided in the city, -that religion in Mexico has its greatest hold upon the women. "The men -are negligent of, or, as a general thing, indifferent to, religious -subjects," said his informant; "and were it not for the women of Mexico -the Church would have very little hold upon the population." - -[Illustration: A MODERN STREET FRONT.] - -The ladies were in mantillas, which are the rule of society for morning -mass, though not for promenades at later hours of the day. Since the -influx of foreigners, in the last decade or so, the fashions of Mexico -have undergone a change, and steadily approach the Parisian. But the -mantilla still holds its place for morning mass, and will probably do so -for a long while. Of course the priests might change it if they desired -to do so, but they are opposed to innovations, and were, speaking -generally, bitter opponents of the railway and telegraph. The mantilla -is a very becoming outside garment for a pretty woman whose brunette -complexion harmonizes with what she wears. Frank and Fred carried with -them for hours, if not for a longer period, the recollection of some of -the faces that came within the range of their vision on that morning -walk. - -They were frequently accosted by the sellers of crucifixes, rosaries, -and other things appertaining to the religion which was represented by -the people on their way to mass. Evidently the morning is the best time -for these venders to dispose of their wares, and they endeavor to make -the most of it. Rather incongruously, these dealers in sacred things -were jostled by the sellers of lottery tickets; these gentry pursue -their avocations at all hours and in all places and are very persistent. -They offer to sell you the ticket that will be sure to draw the highest -prize, and in every way possible exercise their ingenuity to persuade -you to buy. The tickets are of all prices, and one can invest much or -little, according to his means and inclination. - -Frank investigated the subject of lotteries in Mexico, and found that -they were a regular institution of the country; in fact, they are to be -found in pretty nearly all the countries of Spanish America. The -Government gives charters to certain associations, and very often runs -the lottery itself; the profits are large, and the Government makes a -handsome revenue from the business. The sale of tickets amounts to about -$3,000,000 a year in Mexico; and after deducting the value of the prizes -and the expense of conducting the enterprise, the net revenue to the -Government is not far from $800,000. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN LOTTERY TICKET.] - -Frank did not invest in the lottery, but he went to witness one of the -drawings. It took place in public, and seemed to be perfectly fair. The -numbers were drawn from the boxes by blind boys, who were brought from -one of the hospitals for the blind, and were accompanied by the -professor in charge of that institution. Sometimes, when a blind boy or -man cannot be easily obtained, the drawing is made by an Indian who -cannot read; and he is carefully blindfolded, so that there can be no -suspicion of fraud. - -Judging by the large attendance at the drawing, it is evident that the -lottery is very popular in Mexico. Nearly everybody seems to speculate -in the tickets, and when the drawing is made and the lucky number -announced, there is intense excitement. There is an old adage that -lightning does not strike twice in the same place. It would seem as if -the proverb should be reversed, as the story goes that Señor Manuel -Garcia, the owner of a hacienda near Manzanillo, won the highest prize -in the great National Lottery three times in succession. - -Flower-sellers were out in goodly number when the youths took their -morning walk, and the wares they offered were fresh and attractive. We -have already seen the fondness of the Mexicans for flowers, as shown at -Monterey and elsewhere in the north. The city offered no exception to -the rule, and the size and beauty of the bouquets, combined with their -low price, were calculated to astonish the visitors. For twenty-five -cents Frank bought a bouquet, which he sent to Doctor Bronson's room. It -was about two feet high and the same in diameter, and was composed -principally of roses of a dozen varieties. While Frank was paying for -his purchase Fred sniffed at it, and was surprised to find that in spite -of their beauty the roses had hardly any perfume. On inquiry, he learned -that this was the case with nearly all flowers in the Valley of Mexico, -and was supposed to be due to the rarity of the air. - -"We had some difficulty at first," said Fred, "in finding our way about -the city, for the reason that the names of some of the streets change at -each block. This plan, which is very annoying to a stranger, and even to -a resident, is being given up; and they told us that in a few years they -hoped to abandon it altogether. Just think what New York or Boston would -be with such a system as this!" - -[Illustration: FLOWER-GIRL.] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE CATHEDRAL OF MEXICO.--SITE OF THE AZTEC TEOCALLI.--HUMAN -SACRIFICES.--PANORAMA OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.--EXTENT AND COST OF THE -CATHEDRAL; CHAPELS AND ALTARS.--TOMB OF ITURBIDE.--THE CAREER AND TRAGIC -END OF ITURBIDE.--THE RICHEST ALTAR IN THE WORLD.--GOLDEN CANDLESTICKS A -MAN COULD NOT LIFT.--THE AZTEC CALENDAR-STONE; ITS INTERESTING FEATURES; -INSCRIPTION ON THE STONE.--BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE AZTECS.--THE TRIBE -CALLED MEXICANS.--AZTEC LAWS AND CUSTOMS.--PREVALENCE OF THE DEATH -PENALTY.--AZTEC POSTING SYSTEM.--PICTURE-WRITING.--FLOWER-SHOW IN THE -ZOCALO.--A FASHIONABLE ASSEMBLAGE.--WONDERFUL WORK IN FEATHERS. - - -"In Paris," said Frank in his note-book, "the Church of Notre Dame is -the first object of interest to the stranger. In Vienna he goes first to -St. Stephen's, and in Rome to St. Peter's. So in the capital of Mexico -we go first to the cathedral. - -"It is a magnificent building, and would do honor to any of the capitals -of Europe. The spot where it stands is historic; the Spaniards destroyed -the Aztec city that stood here, and built their own upon its ruins, and -where now stands the cathedral the Teocalli, or temple of the Aztecs, -was formerly to be seen. It is saddening to think of the rivers of blood -that flowed here in the sacrifices which the Aztecs deemed necessary to -their religious exercises. - -"The historical authorities say generally that 60,000 persons were -slaughtered in a single year on the altars of the Great Teocalli of -Tenochtitlan (the Aztec city that stood here and was destroyed by the -Spaniards); most of them were prisoners of war, but when there was not a -sufficient supply of prisoners the Aztecs themselves were chosen for -sacrifice. The Spaniards may have shown great cruelty in their treatment -of the people they conquered, but they did well to put a stop to this -terrible shedding of blood in the name of religion. - -"The Teocalli was a pyramid of earth, faced with stone, and is said to -have been 150 feet in height. Steps led around and up its sides, and -they were so arranged that in mounting to the top the pedestrian made a -complete circuit of the structure. On the summit was the sacrificial -altar, and this is supposed to have been very nearly where the centre of -the cathedral is at present. The sacrificial stone from the Teocalli is -now in the museum; it is shaped like a millstone, is three feet high by -nine in diameter, and is elaborately carved on the sides and upper -surface. There is a bowl in the centre, and a gutter leading from the -bowl to one side to permit the flow of blood from the victims. - -[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL, CITY OF MEXICO.] - -"But we are wandering from the cathedral in considering what preceded -it. The Teocalli was destroyed, and the materials were used for filling -up the neighboring canal; then a small church was erected, and followed -by a larger one, and this again was removed in 1573 to make room for the -present cathedral, which was completed ninety-four years later at an -expense of $2,000,000. It stands on the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor, -and is a very conspicuous object in the panorama of the city. Like most -Catholic cathedrals, it is in the shape of a cross, its greatest length -being 426 feet, and its greatest width 200 feet. It is 175 feet high, -and its towers rise to a height of 200 feet. We ascended to the top -of one of the towers, and advise all visitors to the city to do -likewise, as they will have from it one of the finest views in the -world. - -[Illustration: MOONLIGHT VIEW OF PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL.] - -"As we looked from the tower we agreed with Bishop Haven that never did -a city have such an environment. The whole city lay below us spread out -like a map; there are few chimneys in Mexico, and consequently there was -no smoke to mar the view, and we readily traced the streets and avenues, -stippled with the green of the squares and gardens that abound so -numerously. We looked over the plains and down upon the lakes, and then -our gaze swept to the mountains that surround the valley in a jagged -chain that covers nearly 200 miles of distance in its girdling course. -The snow-covered peaks of Popocatepetl and his sister and companion, -'The White Woman,' seemed to rise higher than we had before seen them, -and added a solemnity to the picture in addition to that which it -already possessed. North of the city rises the hill on which is built -the Church of Guadalupe, and on the west is that of Chapultepec. As we -looked on the latter we thought of the heroic attack upon the fortress -by the American army in our war with Mexico, while the former secured -our respect as one of the places which are sacred in the eyes of pious -Mexicans. - -"The $2,000,000 which I mentioned as the cost of the cathedral were for -the walls alone; at one time the wealth of the church, in silver and -gold and costly pictures, was something almost beyond calculation, but -it has been repeatedly plundered, and the aggregate work of the -despoilers has stripped off much of its magnificence, but even now it is -very rich, and as long as peace continues is likely to remain so. There -are six altars, fourteen chapels, and five naves; there are paintings by -famous artists of Spain, and there is a balustrade around the choir -which is said to weigh 50,000 pounds, and is so valuable that the church -authorities refused an offer to replace it with a balustrade of solid -silver of equal weight. The balustrade was made in Macao, China, and is -of tumbago, a composite of silver, copper, and gold. It was brought to -Acapulco, and transported thence on pack-mules to this city. - -"We visited the chapels in which the remains of some of the great men of -Mexico are buried, notably the chapel of San Felipe de Jesus, which -contains the tomb and monument of the unfortunate Iturbide, the first -emperor of Mexico. On the monument he is called 'The Liberator,' and we -are told that his birthday is remembered and honored, as it justly -deserves to be. We haven't yet told you who Iturbide was. - -"He was born in 1783, his parents having come from Spain shortly before -his birth, and settled at what is now Morelia, in Mexico. He became a -soldier, and fought in the wars against the revolutionary movements in -the first fifteen years of the present century. In 1816 he went into -private life, having been dismissed from the service in consequence of -quarrels with men high in power; then he began to dream of securing the -independence of Mexico; and when the revolutionary movement became -general in 1820, he joined it. He was soon at the head of the army, the -revolution succeeded, independence was acknowledged, and Iturbide was -proclaimed Emperor May 18, 1822, and crowned on the 21st of the -following July. - -[Illustration: AUGUSTIN DE ITURBIDE, GRANDSON OF THE LIBERATOR.] - -"But peace did not follow his coronation. There was a new revolution, -with Santa Anna at its head, and Iturbide was forced to abdicate the -throne and leave the country. He went to Italy, and afterwards to -England; but in 1824 the desire to regain his crown led him back to -Mexican soil, where he had been proclaimed a traitor and an outlaw. He -landed at Soto la Marina on the 14th of July, and was arrested. Five -days later he was shot by order of the military commander; as he fell he -assured the multitude that his intentions were not treasonable, and -exhorted them to religion, patriotism, and obedience to the Government. -And here his body rests, the judgment upon his conduct having been long -ago reversed. His grandson now lives in Washington. Maximilian, being -childless, chose young Iturbide, the grandson, to be his heir to the -throne of Mexico, but there is little likelihood that he will ever -ascend its steps; the atmosphere of Mexico does not seem favorable to -imperial plants. - -"In the days of its glory the high altar of this cathedral was the -richest in the world. There were candlesticks of solid gold upon it; -they were so heavy as to make a load for a strong man, and some were so -large that the strength of one man was not sufficient to raise them. The -other ornaments and appurtenances of the altar were of corresponding -richness and value, some of the crosses, pixes, and censers being -studded with diamonds, pearls, amethysts, sapphires, emeralds, and -rubies. There was a statue of the Assumption, which was of gold set with -diamonds, and is said to have cost more than $1,000,000. It is gone; and -so is a lamp which was valued at $70,000; and with them many other -things of great value have disappeared. Some one says that it cost $1000 -to clean that famous lamp, but the revolutionary troops cleaned it out -for nothing. The balustrades of tumbago remain undisturbed, possibly -because the real value of that metal was unknown at the time of the -looting of the cathedral. - -[Illustration: GRANTING ABSOLUTION IN THE CATHEDRAL.] - -"Like Catholic churches everywhere, the cathedral is always open, and -men and women come here for prayer whenever opportunity offers, in -addition to their attendance at mass. In nearly every chapel we saw one -or more kneeling figures. All classes meet here on common ground; and -the poor Indian may be seen worshipping side by side with the richly -clad and jewelled lady whose family is of the purest blood of Spain. On -great festivals the church is crowded, and the mingling is most -indiscriminate. At such times pickpockets are said to abound; and they -manage to steal handkerchiefs and purses while kneeling devoutly at the -side of those whose possessions they covet. Mexican thieves are quite -adroit, and some of their performances are, professionally considered, -worthy of the highest praise. - -"Before leaving the cathedral we inspected the famous calendar-stone of -the Aztecs, which is in the base of one of the towers. Fred will tell -you about it; my business is now with the churches." - -Frank added to his notes that in addition to the cathedral there were -forty-six large churches in the city, all of them broad and high, and -ornamented with domes or towers. One, the Sagrario, adjoins the -cathedral, and is connected with it by a large door; its façade is -richly, and, as Frank thought, rather grotesquely carved. - -[Illustration: READY FOR MASS.] - -One of the most fashionable churches is the Profesa, which is crowded -during Lent with the ladies of the best society, all arrayed in solemn -black, in accordance with the church-going custom already mentioned. Our -friends went there, and also to the Church of San Fernando, which is -near the cemetery, and is the resting-place of most of the illustrious -men of Mexico. Generals Miramon and Mejia, who were shot with -Maximilian, are buried there; San Fernando also contains a monument to -President Juarez, which is considered one of the best works of modern -sculpture. It was made by Manuel Islas, a Mexican sculptor. The -monumental group is in a small Greek temple, and represents the dead -President lying at full length, with his head resting on the knee of a -feminine figure, which represents Mexico. - -[Illustration: OLD SPANISH PALACE IN THE CALLE DE JESUS.] - -Doctor Bronson and the youths paid a visit one morning to the church -where the remains of Cortez the Conqueror rested at one time, and by -many are supposed to be resting to-day. It was the desire of Cortez, in -case of his death in Europe, to have his bones transported to the New -World. They were brought to Mexico in 1629, and rested quietly in this -church for nearly 200 years, when they were secretly removed, through -fear that the tomb would be violated by the Revolutionists, who had a -bitter hatred of everything Spanish. They were first placed in another -part of the church, and then sent to Italy, where they now are. From -present indications, the Mexicans are not likely to ask for their -return. - -[Illustration: CHURCH BUILT BY CORTEZ.] - -When we left the cathedral we gave a glance at the Aztec calendar-stone, -which Fred was to describe to us. Listen to his account: - -"The Aztec calendar-stone," writes Fred, "is exceedingly interesting, -both from its historic character and as a work of the sculptor's art. -Some say the name is incorrect, and that the stone is not intended for a -calendar. We will not enter into the dispute, but accept the name by -which the antiquity is best known. It is of circular shape, eleven feet -in diameter, and is said to weigh twenty-five tons. - -"A great deal has been written about this stone, and there has been a -wonderful amount of speculation and theory concerning it. I haven't -space or time to consider everybody's story, and will take that of Señor -Chavero, who, as we are told, is one of the best authorities, if not the -best of all. Señor Chavero says the stone was engraved in honor of the -sun, and for this reason it is often called 'The Stone of the Sun.' - -"According to this gentleman's account, the stone was made in the reign -of King Axayacatl, about 1479 of our era, and was originally placed -horizontally in the temple of Mexico. When the temple was destroyed by -Cortez after the Conquest, the stone lay for a while in the great -square. It was buried about the middle of the sixteenth century, and -remained beneath the surface of the plaza until 1790, when it was -unearthed and placed where it is now to be seen. - -[Illustration: THE AZTEC CALENDAR-STONE.] - -"Here is what Señor Chavero says of the meaning of the sculpture on the -stone: - -"'The face in the centre is the god-star throwing his light on the -earth, which is represented by the tongue protruding from his lips. He -has the pupils of his eyes turned upward, and they are seen through the -sacred mask that covers the upper part of his face. The hieroglyphics -on the diadem encircling the head represent the division of time and -the Mexican method of numbering the years. The civil year, like ours, -was 365 days. Each four years had different emblems repeated -successively, without reference to other chronological arrangements. The -first year was called _tochtl_, or rabbit; the second, _acatl_, or reed; -the third, _tecpatl_, or flint; the fourth, _calli_, or house. In -addition to these periods, the years were arranged by the number of -thirteen, four of such periods making fifty-two years, or a Mexican age, -when the Festival of Fire occurred. This was a most serious event for -the Mexicans, as the priests taught the people that the world might come -to an end and terrible demons would descend from above and eat up -mankind. - -"'The two claws on the dial at the sides of the mask represent -computations of numbers, for which the hand was used in a sort of -deaf-and-dumb alphabet. The large V-shaped ornaments denote four equal -divisions of the day, and the smaller ornaments of the same shape -indicate the division of the day into eight parts. The ornaments lying -between the V's represent eight divisions of the night. The twenty -ornaments in panels in the circle inside the V's are symbols of twenty -days, or one Mexican month. The rest of the stone is differently -interpreted by different writers, but they generally agree that it -represents the relations of the months to the year and the years to the -Mexican cycle.' - -[Illustration: INDIAN PICTURE-WRITING.] - -"And here is a good place," said Fred, "to make some notes about the -Aztecs. Properly speaking, they were only one of the tribes or nations -that occupied the plateau of Anahuac, or Mexico, at the time of the -Conquest by Cortez. They migrated from the north, the aggregate time -consumed in their migrations being nearly 200 years, and finally settled -in the Valley of Mexico, at a spot where they saw an eagle sitting on a -cactus and with a snake in his beak. This eagle and cactus have been -adopted as the symbol of Mexico, and are seen on the national flag and -on the coins. - -[Illustration: TENOCHTITLAN, A.D. 1517.] - -"The Aztecs found the valley occupied by the Toltecs, who had been there -for several centuries. They made war on the Toltecs, took possession of -the country, and proceeded to build a city on the site of the present -capital. It was called Tenochtitlan ('cactus on a stone'), and the -foundations were laid about A.D. 1324. Lake Tezcoco was then much higher -than it is now, and the new city was surrounded by water, and greatly -resembled Venice in the abundance of its canals. It could only be -approached on narrow causeways, and there was a fleet of boats on the -lakes which prevented attack by water. With this stronghold as a base, -the Aztecs gradually conquered all the surrounding people, so that they -had possession of the entire valley at the time of the arrival of -Cortez. - -[Illustration: FIRST CAVALRY CHARGE BY CORTEZ.] - -"One of the tribes of the Aztecs was called Mexicans, from Mexi, their -chief. This tribe seems to have become more powerful than the rest, -though originally it ranked as the seventh. It gave the name to the -whole people, and from the people the name passed to the country. - -"If you think the Aztecs, or ancient Mexicans, were a barbarous people, -look at some of their laws and customs. - -"They had a complete system of laws, and they had courts in all their -cities and towns to administer the laws. They had inns along the roads -for the free accommodation of travellers, and bridges or boats at the -crossings of rivers. Creditors could imprison their debtors; slaves -about to be sold might free themselves by seeking refuge in the royal -palace; and treason, embezzlement of taxes, and any crime against the -person of the sovereign would cause the death of the offender and all -his relatives to the fourth degree. Slander was punished by cutting off -the lips or ears, and death was the penalty for robbing in the market, -altering lawful measures, or removing the legal boundaries of land. -Prisoners of war were devoured, enslaved, or offered as sacrifices; and -there were two sorts of prisons: one for debtors and others not charged -with capital crimes, the other for condemned criminals and prisoners of -war. - -"They had no beasts of burden; and when Cortez landed with the few -horses that he brought on his ships, he struck terror to the hearts of -the people, who had never seen such an animal. All burdens were carried -on men's backs, and they had towers erected along the principal roads -for forwarding the King's despatches. These towers were about six miles -apart, and couriers were always standing ready to receive messages -which were brought from the last tower or station by a man running at -the top of his speed. Letters were carried three hundred miles in a day -by this method. This system is almost identical with that of the great -Khan of Cathay, as described by Marco Polo, except that the Khan had his -post-stations only three miles apart, instead of six. - -"I think I hear you ask something about their language and how they -wrote. Well, they had no written language like ours, with letters and -words, but they had a picture-writing, in which everything was -represented by drawings and paintings. They had records of this sort of -all their history, and their books and papers would have filled a large -library, but they were burned by the Spaniards, who thought it a sin to -allow these pagan documents to exist. Only a very few of the -picture-writings preceding the Conquest have been preserved. When Cortez -landed on the coast of Mexico, a full account and description of his -ships and men were sent to the King by means of these pictures. The -Aztec picture-writings have a remarkable similarity to the hieroglyphics -of the ancient Egyptians, and some writers believe that the Aztecs are -the lost tribes of Israel, who wandered to America and brought the -Egyptian form of writing with them. - -"That will do for the present about the Aztecs," said Fred. "If you want -more you must wait a while till I take breath." - -Fred made a sudden descent from the sixteenth to the nineteenth -century, and as he closed his note-book he suggested a stroll to the -grand plaza. - -[Illustration: A FLOWER-SHOW IN ZOCALO.] - -Frank assented, and away they went. It was the hour when fashionable -people were out for their daily airing, and the display was well worth -seeing. There was a flower-show in the Zocalo, a garden in the centre of -the plaza. It is not a relic of the Conquest, but of very modern origin, -as it was laid out by Maximilian, who had a good eye for the beautiful. -Many persons complain of the Zocalo, as it partially obstructs the view -of the cathedral. - -Frank and Fred found the flower-show very interesting, not only on -account of the floral products which they saw, but also because of the -artistic arrangement of the bouquets. Some of the bouquets contained -strawberries and other small fruits on account of the contrasts of -color, and there were many bunches and baskets with little flags, on -which were mottoes, patriotic, sentimental, and otherwise, so that all -reasonable tastes could be accommodated. There was a band of music -playing, and the fashionable population seemed to have assembled in the -Zocalo to see and be seen. - -[Illustration: HOW THE MANTILLA IS WORN.] - -Not the least interesting part of the show was the crowd of promenaders. -The ladies were in the fashions of Paris, perhaps six months after the -date of their issue in the French capital, and every young lady was -accompanied by her duenna, an elderly woman, who never for a moment left -the side of her charge, and scarcely removed her eyes from her. -Fashionable young, middle-aged, and old men were there, but the younger -seemed to be in the majority. Some of them wore the national costume, -the trousers and short jacket, ornamented with silver buttons, and the -broad-rimmed sombrero, covered with silver braid and embroidery; others -had adopted the walking costume of Europe; and from the number of these -it was evident that the old fashion is dying out. Frank and Fred thought -it a pity that such should be the case, as the Mexican dress is -picturesque, and certainly distinctive of its wearers. Some of the -ladies wore the mantilla in combination with their Parisian dresses, -while others had adopted the French bonnet, with all the delicacy of -trimming that adapts it for fine weather only. - -[Illustration: THE TROGON.] - -From the Zocalo the youths wandered to the shops along one side of the -square, where they lingered for some time among the curiosities which -were exposed for sale. The first thing to attract their attention were -the famous feather pictures which are made by the Indians, exactly as -they were made in the days before the Conquest. The secret of this work -has been handed down from father to son, and is known in its perfection -to a comparatively small number. - -"We saw some feather pictures," said Frank, "that were marvels of beauty -and skill. The brilliant plumage of the paroquet, humming-bird, trogon, -and other members of the ornithological family of Mexico, is used for -this work, and the colors are as skilfully blended as are the pigments -of an accomplished painter. Considering the time required for their -production, these pictures are wonderfully cheap, and we have bought -several to send as curios to our friends at home. The ancestors of the -feather artists of to-day made the famous feather cloak of Montezuma, -which excited alike the admiration and the cupidity of Cortez and his -companions." - -[Illustration: NEAR THE PLAZA.] - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -LOST ARTS IN MEXICO.--GOLDSMITHS' WORK IN THE TIME OF CORTEZ.--SILVER -FILIGREE.--MODELLING IN WAX AND CLAY.--NATIVE TASTE FOR MUSIC.--NATIONAL -CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC.--MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES.--THE SACRIFICIAL -STONE.--SACRIFICES AMONG THE ANCIENT MEXICANS.--GLADIATORIAL STONE.--A -BRAVE SOLDIER.--OBSIDIAN KNIVES AND RAZORS.--AZTEC METALLURGY.--STATUE -OF THE GOD OF WAR.--SHIELD AND CLOAK OF MONTEZUMA.--AZTEC WARFARE AND -DOMESTIC LIFE.--RELICS OF HIDALGO AND MAXIMILIAN.--MAX'S STATE -COACH.--NATIONAL PALACE.--HALL OF THE AMBASSADORS.--MEXICAN -PAINTINGS.--THE MONTE DE PIEDAD.--AN EXTENSIVE PAWN-SHOP.--LOCKING UP -MEN AS SECURITY.--FORMALITIES OF THE SALESROOM. - - -Fine as is the artistic taste of the Indians of Mexico to-day, it is far -behind that of the people whom Cortez found there. According to history -and tradition, their work in the precious metals surpassed that of any -of the goldsmiths of Europe; they fashioned gold and silver into the -shape of plants, birds, fishes, and quadrupeds, and their imitations -were marvellously correct in all their details. All this art seems to be -lost, with the exception of the working of silver filigree, which still -holds high rank. Cortez sent to Spain some exquisite specimens of Aztec -work in gold and silver; and the cupidity of the King, impelled by the -necessities of the Government, put all these precious works of -Occidental art into the melting-pot, the resort of the modern burglar -when he wishes to remove the trace of his depredations. - -[Illustration: WAX MODEL OF WATER-CARRIER.] - -All through their journey in Mexico the youths had been impressed with -the little figures, modelled out of wax or clay, representing the -various people of the country and their occupations. These statuettes -are made by uneducated savages with hardly any tools, colored with -native pigments, and baked in the sun or in primitive ovens. -Water-carriers, porters, muleteers, mozos of all names and kinds, -flower-sellers, beggars, street peddlers, basket-makers--all and many -more are represented. The figures are generally covered with cloth -tinted of the appropriate colors; but if not so tinted, the colors are -wrought into the plastic material of which the figure is composed. Our -young friends bought a goodly supply of these figures, and had them -carefully packed for transportation. Fred thought they were fully equal -in artistic design and workmanship to any of the figures they had seen -in Japan, China, or India representing the trades and occupations of the -far East. - -[Illustration: ANCIENT INDIAN POTTERY.] - -Mention has been made of the pottery of the Guadalajara Indians, which -is wrought into a great many fantastic forms. These Indians have great -ability in portraiture; they will model in a wonderfully short time a -statuette of an individual either from life or from a photograph. An -enterprising American once planned to take some of these people to the -principal cities of the United States and Europe, and open an -establishment for the manufacture of statuettes of individuals at ten or -twenty dollars each. His project was not carried out, for the reason -that the Indians refused to leave their homes. The native Mexican is -averse to changing his residence, and it requires a great inducement to -take him away from his native soil. - -The women show unusual dexterity with the needle, and their embroidery -equals that of the natives of India and other Eastern lands. They -display great industry and patience, and while seated in the -market-place beside the wares they offer for sale their spare moments -are generally devoted to stitching. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN HOUSE MAID AND CHILDREN.] - -"In no part of the world where we have been," said Frank, "have we found -a more musical people than the natives of Mexico. They 'catch on' to a -tune or air with great readiness, and gentlemen who live here tell us -they have known Indians to sing a common melody through without a -mistake after hearing it only once, and this, too, when they have no -scientific knowledge of music, or even of its first principles. They -learn readily to play upon musical instruments, and a street band can be -organized and trained in less time than a street band in any other part -of the world. Some of these bands are composed of boys of about fifteen -years of age, and their performances almost invariably excite the -admiration of musical strangers. - -"We are told that the Government is encouraging the musical tastes of -the people by giving free instruction to pupils in the National -Conservatory of Music, and supporting them during their studies by small -allowances of money. We have heard of pupils that came on foot for -hundreds of miles to be musically educated in the capital. In order to -secure admission to the Conservatory, they must pass an examination -similar to that of musical schools in other parts of the world. Mrs. -Gooch, the author of a book on Mexico, mentions two girls who walked -from Queretaro to the capital to present themselves as pupils in the -Conservatory. She says she heard them sing selections from Italian -opera, and the sweetness, strength, and range of their voices were far -beyond the average, and produced a profound impression upon the -audience." - -"Speaking of girls," said Fred, "reminds us that the Mexican children of -both the upper and lower classes treat their parents with the greatest -respect, and set an example that the children of the United States -might do well to follow. They remind us of Japanese and Chinese children -more than of any other we have seen, and are very much unlike the little -folks of English-speaking countries in this one particular. Since we -came into the country, whenever we have seen a badly behaved child we -have found that he belonged to a foreign family. Old people are -invariably cared for by their children, who would suffer all sorts of -privations rather than have their parents want for anything they can -possibly provide." - -[Illustration: THE SACRIFICIAL STONE.] - -Having seen and described the Aztec calendar-stone, Frank and Fred were -naturally drawn to the National Museum and to the sacrificial stone, -which has been mentioned, and is one of the great attractions of the -place. - -[Illustration: ONE FORM OF SACRIFICIAL STONE.] - -"It is a block of porphyry," said Fred, "like a huge millstone, three -feet high and ten feet across. All around the sides are relief figures -representing captives being held by the hair of the head. There are -fifteen of these groups, and they are said to represent fifteen -victories gained by one of the emperors over as many neighboring States. -A symbol in the corner of the panel of each group shows what city or -State is represented. The stone was made about the year 1486 of our era, -but its complete history is unknown. - -[Illustration: SACRIFICIAL COLLAR.] - -"Tizoc was the emperor whose deeds the stone commemorates, and it is -sometimes called Tizoc's Stone in consequence of this fact. The Stone of -Sacrifice is sometimes confounded with the Gladiatorial Stone, which was -generally placed in the courts of the temples, and was the scene of a -gladiatorial combat. Mr. Charnay, in 'Ancient Cities of the New World,' -says the captive, if a man of distinction, was tied to this stone and -allowed to fight with several opponents in succession; and if he -succeeded in defeating them all he was permitted to escape. They took -good care not to let this happen very often, as the numbers were against -him; and, furthermore, he had only a wooden sword ornamented with -feathers, while his enemies had weapons of obsidian, which were sharp as -steel. When he was vanquished, as he generally was, he was immediately -stretched on the Gladiatorial Stone or on the Stone of Sacrifice. A -wooden collar was placed across his neck to prevent his struggling, and -five priests held his head and limbs. Then a sixth priest, who wore a -scarlet mantle, opened the breast of the victim with a sharp knife of -itzli, or obsidian, tore out the heart, held it up to the sun for a -moment, and then cast it at the feet of the divinity to whom the temple -was dedicated. - -[Illustration: THE FORM OF SACRIFICE.] - -"While this was going on the multitude knelt in adoration of the -divinity. The body of the victim was thrown down from the stone to the -people, by whom it was divided to be served up at their feasts. The -difference between sacrifice on the Gladiatorial Stone and the Stone of -Sacrifice was that the latter was on the top of the temple, where -everybody could see it, while the former was in the court of the -edifice, and only accessible to a select few. - -[Illustration: SCULPTURES FROM TIZOC'S STONE.] - -"The same authority," continued Fred, "tells us that the Mexicans were -very punctilious about this ceremony even when they were the victims of -it. A soldier when captured was reserved for sacrifice. He would -consider himself disgraced, and would rather suffer death than be -liberated except after a gladiatorial combat. There is a story of a -chief who was captured and taken before Montezuma; he had a high -reputation as a warrior, and, on learning his name, the King treated him -with honor, spared his life, and offered him his liberty. The chief -refused the offer, and demanded that he should be devoted to the gods, -according to custom. After trying in vain to have him change his mind, -Montezuma ordered that the chief should be tied to the stone and -permitted to fight with some of the King's best soldiers, while the King -himself, accompanied by his officers, should witness the combat. The -chief killed eight men and wounded twenty; but he was finally -overpowered, and carried off to be sacrificed to the war-god -Huitzilopochtli." - -[Illustration: GLADIATORIAL STONE--FROM AN AZTEC DRAWING.] - -"But you haven't said what these knives were with which the priests -killed their victims," Frank remarked, as Fred paused. "What is -obsidian?" - -"It is a mineral substance," replied Doctor Bronson, to whom the -question was referred, "and is formed by the cooling of the lava from a -volcano. When lava cools it forms into obsidian and pumice. Everybody -knows what pumice-stone is. Obsidian is a substance hard enough to -scratch glass, and is capable of taking a high polish and a keen edge. -The Mexicans called it itzli, and used it for making knives, razors, -arrow-tips, saws, and other implements." - -"Did they have a knowledge of any of the metals besides gold and -silver?" - -"They had no knowledge of iron, but they made use of copper, and knew -how to temper it so as to make it nearly as hard as steel. They used it -for many of their implements, but they also had great skill in the use -of implements of stone, flint, obsidian, and other minerals. They knew -about lead and tin, but made little use of them, copper being their only -metal for making into tools. Knives, scissors, and hatchets of copper -were abundant. Bernal Diaz, who accompanied Cortez, mentions six hundred -hatchets of copper that were paid to the conqueror as tribute by one -tribe of natives. There are scissors in the Mexican museum which are -said to contain tin, copper, lead, and platinum, and Humboldt says the -Peruvian Indians made use of a similar alloy in making scissors and -other implements." - -[Illustration: HUITZILOPOCHTLI, THE GOD OF WAR.] - -Frank and Fred thanked the Doctor for the information they had received, -and then turned to contemplate the statue of the god of war to whom the -brave chief just mentioned was sacrificed. - -"It is a hideous statue," said Fred, "about ten feet high, and -appearing at first glance to be composed of heads and hands. It was -found in the great square not far from the calendar-stone, and after -close examination we found that it had a skirt of snakes. It was also -called the God of Death, and this significance is shown by a skull which -is sculptured near the centre. - -"Skulls and snakes were favorite objects of adoration with the Mexicans, -if we are to judge by the frequency with which we find them displayed. -It is said that there was a wall around the principal temple of -Tenochtitlan composed of colossal heads of snakes carved in stone; some -of these have been found and are preserved in the museum. There is a -coiled serpent there, covered with feathers instead of scales; it is -carved in stone and is a very creditable piece of sculpture. - -"They called our attention to a figure which is called the 'Indio -Triste,' or Sad Indian. It seemed to us that the name was not justified, -as the Indian was anything but sad. Mr. Brantz Mayer thinks this figure -was set on a wall or battlement, and held a candlestick or the staff of -a banner in its hand. It was found in the year 1828 in the street that -is now called Calle del Indio Triste in commemoration of the discovery. - -"Another interesting object was the shield of Montezuma, which has upon -it the feather-work for which the people are famous, and also his cloak -of the same material. It is evident that the feather-workers, wonderful -as they are, have degenerated since the time of the Conquest. They used -to make feather-cloth, and we have seen some curiosities in the shape of -scarfs, serapes, and rebozos ornamented with feathers, and said to be -very old. They make none of these things now, but confine themselves to -pictures on cards, where the feathers are made to adhere by means of -paste or wax. Each feather is handled separately, and none of the skin -is ever applied to the card. You can give them a design and they will -fill it up very quickly. - -"Well, perhaps we have tired you out among the curiosities of ancient -Mexico, and we will turn to more modern things. We could spend hours -among the weapons which illustrate the warfare of the ancient Mexicans, -and also the implements that reveal their domestic life and ways. Some -of the Aztec picture-writings, which we have already mentioned, are to -be seen in the museum, and after what we had heard of them we found them -very interesting. One of the specimens preserved here is supposed to -represent the migrations of the Aztec tribes. - -"Among the modern objects is the standard raised by Hidalgo in 1810, in -the revolution which ultimately resulted in the independence of Mexico -from Spain. The gun, handkerchief, and cane of Hidalgo are also shown, -together with other mementos of that hero. Then there are a portrait of -Cortez, and the standard which was carried at the head of his columns in -the conquest of Mexico; and there are the armor of some of his -companions, and portraits of the successive viceroys that ruled the -country by authority of the King of Spain. - -"Maximilian has been repeatedly brought to our minds by the relics of -his ill-fated reign. Here is his table service of silver; and they tell -us that the metal is not solid, but plated. The Mexicans consider it -typical of the plated empire which he undertook to set up in America -through the aid of the charlatan emperor, Louis Napoleon. His state -coach is also preserved and shown to visitors; evidently it is highly -prized, as the doors of the room where it is kept are always locked, and -a fee is required to open it. The vehicle is the finest in America, and -it even surpasses, so it is said, the state carriages of many of the -imperial and royal establishments of Europe. - -"It is lined with white silk brocade, and the trimmings are of heavy -silver thread. The wheels are so thickly gilded that you might suppose -them to be of solid gold, and the body of the coach is dark red in -color. The harness is in keeping with the coach, and altogether the -vehicle makes an interesting show. We are told that Maximilian -negotiated large loans in England to set up his empire here, and that -the debt he incurred forms one of the financial burdens now resting on -Mexico." - -[Illustration: THE NATIONAL PALACE.] - -From the museum our friends went to the palace, which occupies the -eastern side of the Plaza Mayor, and is said to be the largest building -in the city. Before the Conquest, Montezuma's palace stood on the site -which fell to Cortez when the conquerors drew lots for the possession of -the city of Tenochtitlan, or, rather, the place where it stood. Cortez -erected a building here which remained until 1692, when it was destroyed -in a great riot, and the present palace was begun. It has been added to -from time to time, so that now it is neither symmetrical nor handsome. -Several departments of the Government, including the Presidency, are -located in the building, and its great extent renders it of decided -utility. - -"We went through the palace in charge of a guide from the hotel," wrote -Frank in his journal, "and found it well worth the time and trouble of a -visit. In one respect it reminded us of the Capitol at Washington, as it -seemed to be the resort of office-seekers, claim-agents, lobbyists, and -all that sort of people which every resident of Washington knows so well -and so numerously. They were in all the patios, and in the corridors in -all directions. We asked how many rooms there are in the palace, but -nobody whom we asked could tell us, and after repeating the question -several times we gave it up. - -"Some of the rooms are magnificently furnished; they represent, to a -certain extent, the varying fortunes of Mexico under different rulers. -One room, called the Hall of Iturbide, has its walls hung in crimson -damask, and displays the Eagle and Serpent of Mexico; this room is not -far from the Hall of the Ambassadors, the largest room in the palace. -It is over 300 feet long, but is narrow in proportion to its length. In -this hall we saw portraits of the principal heroes of the Mexican War of -Independence, together with portraits of Juarez, Diaz, and other -Presidents. They are mostly by Mexican artists, some being well, and -others badly, painted. - -[Illustration: GEN. MANUEL GONZALES, FORMER PRESIDENT OF MEXICO.] - -"At the end of the hall is a painting, twenty-five feet long by ten in -height, representing the great battle of Puebla, of May 5, 1862, when -the French were so completely defeated--the battle commonly mentioned in -Mexican history as the _Cinco de Mayo_. It is by Miranda, a native -artist; and though it is not a fine specimen of painting, it is a -correct representation of the ground on which the battle was fought--at -least, so a gentleman says who has personally visited it. The scene -illustrated in the battle is the turning-point, when a regiment of -ragged Indians from Oajaca came into line, drove back the French, and -gave the victory to the Republicans. This battle is regarded as the -Waterloo or Gettysburg of the French in Mexico; it sealed the fate of -Maximilian's empire and re-established the republic. - -"Speaking again of Maximilian reminds us of a room which is on a corner -of the palace, so that it has two windows at right angles. This was his -favorite apartment, and in the latter part of his reign he used to pace -its floor for hours. An English visitor says he could look from it two -ways at once, though not the way to hold his throne. One window looks -upon the market-place, and the other on the Plaza Mayor; the room is now -the storage-place of relics, no one seeming to care to put it to any -other use." - -[Illustration: COLLATERAL IN THE MONTE DE PIEDAD.] - -From the palace to the pawn-shop may not seem a very natural step, -though Frank said it had probably been taken by more people than would -be willing to acknowledge it. Doctor Bronson and the youths took this -step at the city of Mexico, and it was not a very long one either. The -Monte de Piedad is not far from the National Palace; it corresponds to -the famous Mont de Piété of Paris, and is in most of its features -analogous to that French institution. Here is what Fred learned about -it: - -[Illustration: TO THE PAWN SHOP.] - -"It has been in operation for more than 150 years, and was founded by -Count de Regia Don Pedro Terreros, whose intentions were purely -philanthropic; he endowed it with $300,000 in the hope of relieving the -poor, and those in temporary need of money, from the oppression of the -_empeños_, or ordinary pawn shops. - -"According to the rules of the institution, the depositor gets one-third -the estimated value of his goods at an interest varying from three to -twelve and a half per cent. per annum. He must renew his tickets every -eight months, and when he ceases to pay interest upon his loans the -goods are kept for seven months, and then offered for sale at an -appraiser's valuation. If there is no offer for them in one month, the -appraisement is reduced, and then they are offered for another month. -The performance is repeated monthly for six months, and then the goods -are sold at auction. If they do not bring as much as the appraised -valuation, the appraisers must make up the deficiency out of their own -pockets! - -"Anything and everything of any value may be pawned here, and the vaults -have contained at different times money, jewels, and precious metals -sufficient to endow an empire. Not all the property here stored has been -pawned. Many valuables are brought here for safety, as the place is a -sort of fortress in its way, and most carefully guarded. - -"They showed us through the vaults where the diamonds, pearls, rubies, -and other precious stones are kept, and we saw more of these costly -baubles than we ever looked at before in a single hour. We glanced -through the vaults where pictures, silver plate, watches, clocks, -porcelain, and kindred things were stored, and then were taken to the -money vaults, which at times have contained millions of dollars in -silver and gold. The Monte de Piedad was, until a few years ago, a -regular banking institution, and its notes were 'good as gold' all -through Mexico. Its credit was impaired by the withdrawal of its -reserves by the Government, and its banking business received a severe -blow. - -[Illustration: OCCASIONAL PATRONS OF THE MONTE DE PIEDAD.] - -"Money is not loaned on real estate, or on anything else that cannot be -deposited within its vaults. They tell us that a foreign merchant once -came here to borrow money for business purposes, and was accompanied by -two friends who were to indorse his paper and 'go his security.' The -official into whose hands they fell said the establishment would make -the loan at the usual rates, but before completing the transaction he -showed the 'securities' the room in which they would be locked up until -the note was paid. We did not ask further particulars, but presume the -loan was not made. - -"The profits of the bank formerly went to the Church, but latterly they -have been used for establishing branches elsewhere in the city and all -over the country. The Monte de Piedad is a national institution and of -great value to the people. One dollar is the smallest amount loaned, and -the largest is $10,000, and the loans are said to average, large and -small, about sixteen dollars each. The number rarely falls below 200 -loans in a day, and sometimes rises to 2000. About one-third of the -articles deposited in the bank are never redeemed. - -"Sales of clothing are held on certain days of the month, of precious -stones on other days, and of pictures and statuary on others. While we -were looking through the room devoted to sales, Doctor Bronson saw an -article which he desired, and he at once offered to buy it at the price -which was marked upon the card attached to it. - -"'I must first offer it for sale,' said the official in charge of the -place. 'The law requires that I shall do so.' - -"So he held up the article and asked if anybody present would give more. - -"It happened at the time that there was no one in the room but ourselves -and the officials of the bank. The chances of any other offer were not -great, as neither Frank nor myself was likely to make a higher bid. -After a brief pause he handed the article over to Doctor Bronson and -received the money--rather, I should say, he received the money and -handed over the article, as the bank does not let anything out of its -possession until the cash has been paid into the proper hands." - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -MEXICAN POLITENESS.--FREE GIFTS OF HOUSES AND OTHER PROPERTY.--AWKWARD -MISTAKES.--AN ENGLISHWOMAN'S DILEMMA, AND HOW SHE GOT OUT OF IT.--UNCLE -FREDDY AND THE GOVERNOR OF ACAPULCO.--THE GREAT MARKET; SIGHTS AND -SCENES THERE.--ON THE CANAL.--EXTENSIVE LOCAL COMMERCE.--THE -_CHINAMPAS_, OR FLOATING GARDENS.--AN EXCURSION ON THE LAKES.--SANTA -ANITA, A PLACE OF RECREATION.--EXPERTS IN DIVING.--THE HILL OF -ESTRELLA.--THE FESTIVAL OF FIRE; PRESCOTT'S DESCRIPTION OF THE FEARFUL -CEREMONY.--FISHING IN THE LAKES.--THE AXOLOTL.--FISH OR REPTILE?--FLIES' -EGGS AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD. - - -[Illustration: A GIFT TO FRED.] - -"We have been much impressed and amused," said Fred in a letter to his -mother, "with the Mexican, or, rather, the Spanish, forms of politeness. -Whenever we are introduced to anybody, he immediately says, 'Remember -that your house is at No. -- on ---- Street,' notwithstanding that we -may have told him we are comfortably quartered at the hotel. In one day -a dozen or twenty houses were offered to us; and ever since then, if no -more than two or three are tendered between sunrise and bed-time, we -think it is a very poor day for business. Sometimes the form is varied -by saying, 'My house and all it contains are yours.' It would be better -if they would send us the title-deeds to the establishment, with a bill -of sale of the furniture acknowledged and receipted before a notary; but -thus far nobody has gone as far as that. - -"It is a form of politeness, and nothing more," the youth continued, -"and the people who offer us their houses are about as sincere as -Americans are when they say, 'Delighted to see you,' or, 'Happy to meet -you,' to the people they are introduced to in their own country; or as -the New York hostess who says to a departing guest, 'Must you go so -soon?' when she has really been wondering to herself why the visitor -tarried so long. - -"It seemed very odd until we got used to it and learned the real meaning -of the words, to be told on entering the dwelling of a man we had not -known five minutes, 'You are in your own house;' or that we were the -masters, and he was the humble guest. Doctor Bronson says they really -mean to have us make ourselves at home, and they certainly show great -hospitality; but it would be a sad mistake to take them literally and -act as though the place belonged to us. - -"Every time we admire anything--a piece of furniture, a garment, an -article of jewellery or bric-à-brac, or anything else of value--we are -immediately told that it belongs to us, and, if it is portable, that we -can carry it away with us. If we should be so boorish as to accept the -offer, the person who made it would not display any annoyance, however -much he might feel; he is too polite for that. - -"'What would they do under such circumstances?' I hear you ask. I can -best answer by telling a story we heard yesterday. - -"An English lady who had just arrived, and had not learned the forms of -Mexican politeness, one day admired a set of jewellery, which included a -very costly necklace of diamonds and other precious stones that had -belonged to the family for two or three hundred years. She was told that -the set of jewellery was hers, and believing they meant what they said, -she took it away with her when her call was ended. - -"Of course the story was at once told to the friend who had made the -introduction, and the latter at once went to the guileless stranger and -explained the situation. She returned the jewels immediately, with the -explanation that, on reaching home, she had found they did not match the -dress with which she expected to wear them. She added that she had a -fine set of jewellery which she thought would be an appropriate present -for one of the young ladies of the family, and she would send it with -great pleasure. A polite message was returned declining the offer, and -hoping it would be in the power of the family to render the English -visitor some distinguished services during her stay in the city. In this -way the whole difficulty was bridged over, and the parties were good -friends. - -"A similar story was told us regarding an American lady who visited -Mexico several years ago, and, through her ignorance of the local forms -of politeness, accepted the offer of a rare and beautiful shawl. Mutual -friends arranged the matter amicably; but the fair American was greatly -mortified when she learned the mistake she had made. - -[Illustration: "MY HOUSE AND ALL IT CONTAINS ARE YOURS."] - -"Doctor Bronson says there used to be a harmless lunatic in San -Francisco, and afterwards in New York, who went about the streets -dressed in the old Continental costume. With his long and snowy hair, -and quaint costume, he was a noticeable figure. He was under the belief -that he resembled Benjamin Franklin, and he used to exhibit a photograph -representing himself standing at the base of the Franklin monument in -Boston. - -"His passage by steamer was paid from San Francisco to New York by some -friends, and during the voyage the vessel spent a day at Acapulco. -'Uncle Freddy,' as he was called, went on shore with other passengers, -and was introduced to the Governor. The Governor made him the usual -offer of his house and everything it contained, and when the hour came -to go on board the steamer the recipient of the offer refused to -accompany the other passengers. He declared that the Governor had given -him the house, and he was going to remain and enjoy it for the rest of -his life. Explanations were useless; and after vainly trying to induce -him to change his mind, the passengers seized Uncle Freddy and carried -him bodily in their arms to the boat which lay in readiness to take them -to the ship. It was necessary to lock him in his room until they had -left their anchorage and were steaming outside the harbor. - -[Illustration: SEEING AND BEING SEEN.] - -"Of course you will naturally infer that the Spanish people are -insincere in their politeness, and certainly appearances are against -them. But they do not mean anything by it any more than the people of -the United States do in their polite ways of speaking. There is this -difference, that we do not go as far as the Spaniards in saying empty -words, and that is about all. Doctor Bronson says there's a good deal of -hollowness in society everywhere; that people could not get along at all -together, and there would be no society at all if everybody spoke -exactly what he thought at all times. - -"Think what would happen if Mrs. Smith should remark to Mrs. Brown when -the latter is leaving the house after a prolonged visit, 'I'm glad -you're going; you've staid too long,' instead of saying and acting -exactly the reverse; and think, too, what would happen if Mr. Jones, on -being introduced to Mr. Robinson, should say, 'I don't care a straw -whether I know you or not,' instead of 'Glad to make your acquaintance,' -or something of the sort." - -[Illustration: THE MARKET-PLACE, CITY OF MEXICO.] - -One of the attractions of the Mexican capital is the market-place. There -are several _mercados_, or markets, in the city, the principal one being -the Volador, which is close to the National Palace, and overlooked, as -already mentioned, by one of the windows of the room which was -Maximilian's favorite apartment. History says it was for a long time the -property of the family of Cortez, as it happened to be on a portion of -the land which he secured at the division of the spoils of conquest. For -nearly two hundred years the city paid rent to the heirs of the -conqueror, and only in comparatively recent times bought the site, and -now owns it in fee simple. - -Frank and Fred visited the market-place several times during their stay -in the city; in fact, it was one of their principal sources of -amusement. They were never tired of studying the ways of the natives who -throng the place and offer their wares for sale, and they realized the -force of what they read in one of the descriptions of Mexico, that the -markets had changed very little since the days of Montezuma and the -Aztec rule. - -[Illustration: INTERIOR OF A HOUSE NEAR THE MARKET-PLACE.] - -Here is what Bernal Diaz wrote of the market as he saw it in 1519: - -"We were astonished at the crowds of people and the regularity which -prevailed, as well as at the vast quantities of merchandise which those -who attended us were assiduous in pointing out. Each kind had its -particular place, which was designated by a sign. The articles consisted -of gold, silver, jewels, feathers, mantles, chocolate, skins dressed and -undressed, sandals, and great numbers of male and female slaves, some of -whom were fastened by the neck, in collars, to long poles. The meat -market was stocked with fowls, game, and dogs. Vegetables, fruits, -articles of food ready-dressed, salt, bread, honey, and sweet pastry -made in various ways, were also sold here. Other places in the square -were appointed to the sale of earthen-ware, wooden household furniture -(such as tables and benches), firewood, paper, sweet canes filled with -tobacco mixed with liquid amber, copper axes and working tools, and -wooden vessels highly painted. Numbers of women sold fish and little -loaves made of a certain mud which they find in the lakes, and which -resembles cheese. The makers of stone blades were busily employed -shaping them out of the rough material, and the merchants who dealt in -gold had the metal in grains as it came from the mines, in transparent -quills, and the gold was valued at so many mantles, or so many -_xiquipils_ of cocoa, according to the size of the quills. The entire -square was enclosed in piazzas, under which great quantities of grain -were stored, and where also were shops for various kinds of goods." - -[Illustration: MEXICAN BIRD-SELLERS.] - -"The description of the market by Bernal Diaz," wrote Fred in his -journal, "would answer very well for to-day, so far as the appearance of -the sellers and many of the buyers is concerned. They bring the produce -of their farms and gardens to market just as they brought it before -Columbus discovered America, and the chief difference to-day is that -slaves, gold, silver, feathers, and some other things named by Diaz are -not now offered for sale. The Indians bring fowls and vegetables just as -of old and in the same way--in baskets carried on their shoulders or on -those of their family. Since the introduction of the railway some -produce comes to Mexico by train, and in course of time the old custom -may disappear, but it will not do so in a hurry. - -[Illustration: VIEW ON THE CANAL.] - -"There is a canal from the lake to the city," wrote the youth, "and it -comes directly to the market-place, so that the natives bring their -boats close to where they sell their wares. Much of the dealing takes -place on board the boats or close to them, and the crowds that gather -around while a bargain is in progress are very interesting. Some of the -shops and stalls are at the very edge of the canal, so that the prows of -the boats stick in among them, and you realize what a serious matter it -would be to the market-people if by any accident the lake and the canal -should be dried up and disappear. The whole system of local supply would -be radically changed, and until a new order of things could be -established the inhabitants of the capital might run the risk of -starvation. - -"The busiest day of the market is on Sunday, and the noise of the place -is almost deafening. The ordinarily silent Mexican becomes very voluble -in the market-place when there is a prospect of making something by -talk. - -"The description we have given of the market of Monterey will answer for -this one, with the exception that you must multiply everything by ten or -twenty, and add several things we did not see there. One part of the -market is devoted to the sale of coffins; they are made on the spot, and -had a specially sombre appearance to us, as they are all painted black. -The shops in which they are made are in a narrow alley, and the workmen -engaged in the dreary industry seemed as unconcerned as did the makers -of furniture or picture-frames. - -"We hired a canoe and took a short ride on the canal. Its banks are low -and marshy; they are devoted to the culture of vegetables, and the -gardens had a luxuriant appearance, as though the soil was prolific. The -lake, as before said, is brackish and shallow; formerly it contained the -famous _chinampas_, or floating gardens, but when we asked for them we -were told they did not now exist, though the name is retained. We will -say more about them later on. - -"Disappointed in one of the objects of our journey, we settled down to -an enjoyment of the sights of the canal; but our pleasure was a good -deal marred by the number of smells the boatmen stirred up from the -bottom. - -[Illustration: RESIDENCE ON THE BANKS OF THE CANAL.] - -"How old the canal is nobody can tell; it was in use long before the -Conquest, for when Cortez came here the boats of the Aztecs were plying -on its waters, and he observed the activity of the local commerce when -he walked along the banks while he was the guest of Montezuma. There are -little villages near the canal; they are the homes of the people who -till the gardens and supply the markets of the city with vegetables, and -with grass for horses and other quadrupeds. - -[Illustration: SUNDAY DIVERSIONS AT SANTA ANITA.] - -"To see the chinampas it was necessary to go to Santa Anita, or better -still, to the lakes Xochimilco and Chalco. Santa Anita is a sort of -Coney Island without its ocean, a place of recreation for the middle and -lower classes, especially on Sundays and feast days. We went there on a -week-day, when it was comparatively quiet; a gentleman who lives here -says that on Sunday the place is crowded with people, all bent on -amusing themselves. The first thing they do on arriving is to deck -themselves with wreaths of poppies and other flowers, which are sold for -next to nothing and grow here in great abundance. After obtaining a -supply of flowers they dance, drink pulque, eat tamals and other Mexican -delicacies, and have a thoroughly good time as they understand it. There -are other villages of the same sort farther along the canal, but they -are not so well patronized by the Sunday excursionists as Santa Anita. - -"We seemed to 'take our lives in our hands' in starting on our journey -to the lakes, as we had a scene with the boatmen at the bank of the -canal which was anything but agreeable. We had been told that we ought -not to pay more than two dollars for a boat for the entire day; the men -began by demanding five or six dollars, and as all talked at once, and -each tried to persuade us to patronize him, and leave the others to look -elsewhere for patronage, we had an active time for a while. The men -would not abate their demands, and we walked away; then they reduced -their figures, and after ten or fifteen minutes spent in bargaining, we -secured a craft. It was about twelve feet long and four wide, -flat-bottomed, had an awning over the centre where we could sit in the -shade but could not stand erect, and was propelled by means of two -boatmen working poles in the bow. They pushed with their poles against -the bottom or sides of the canal, and thus sent the craft along, at the -same time stirring up the mud and several dozens of vile smells. - -"We met and passed other boats of the same kind, and also small -_chalupas_, or canoes, containing one or two persons, and resembling -narrow dugouts more than anything else. Then we met cargo-boats of -various kinds, some piled high with grass, and others with heaps of -baskets or sacks in the centre, and propelled by several men who -patiently poled the craft along. - -[Illustration: CREW OF A CARGO-BOAT.] - -"Frank made a sketch of the crew of one of the cargo-boats at their -work. While going forward they carried the poles horizontally above -their heads; on reaching the bow of the boat, each man fixed his pole in -the mud at the bottom, and then rested his shoulder firmly against the -upper end; this done, he walked slowly aft, thus propelling the boat; -and as one set of men went aft while the other was going forward, the -boat made steady progress through the water. Doctor Bronson said it was -a reminder of the navigation of the Mississippi before the days of -steam-boats. - -[Illustration: CHINAMPAS, OR FLOATING GARDENS.] - -"The chinampas as they exist to-day are in the neighborhood of Santa -Anita and along the sides of the canal all the way to the lake. The -ground is low and marshy, and in ancient times was probably a part of -the lake or of the great body of water that covered most of the valley. -The chinampas are masses of vegetation, reeds, and bushes covered with -soil above, and they are so loosely fastened that they rise and fall -with the changes of the height of water. They are said to have been -formerly drifted about by the winds and waves, and were then really -chinampas; now they are made fast by means of poles, and their owners -know where to find them. An excellent description of these marvels is to -be found on page 159 of Mr. Brocklehurst's book, and we take the liberty -of copying it: - -"'When a tract of vegetation, composed of reeds, water-plants, and -bushes interwoven and laced together, becomes so dense that it will bear -a superstructure, strips of turf twenty to thirty yards long by two -yards wide are cut from some suitable firm place, floated to it down the -canal, and laid upon it. This is repeated several times, and thus an -island is securely raised two to three feet above the level of the -water. A little soil is spread over it, and it becomes a _chinampa_, or -floating garden, on which Indian corn, vegetables, and flowers are -grown. The gardens vary in size from one to two hundred feet in length, -and from twenty to a hundred feet in width, according to the nature of -the vegetation which supports them. - -"'The Lakes Chalco and Xochimilco are covered with this sort of -vegetation. The lakes have a varying depth of from ten to fifteen feet, -and to secure the gardens in their proper places long willow poles are -driven through them into the ground below, where they soon take root. -The poles also throw out roots into the bed of the floating gardens, and -so hold them steady.' - -"It is said that thieves pursued by soldiers or the police have been -known to dive under these chinampas and come up on the other side. Any -enterprising citizen of the United States who thinks of coming to Mexico -for a life of crime would do well to become an expert swimmer and diver -before venturing into this country. - -[Illustration: PEON'S HOUSE ON A CHINAMPA.] - -"These gardens become firm enough in a few years to support men, -dwelling-houses, and even horned cattle and horses, although the water -continues to circulate freely beneath them. The Government taxes the -inhabitants or owners sufficiently to pay the expense of maintaining an -inspector and several assistants. The chinampas are separated by narrow -canals, and the duties of the inspecting party are to keep the canals -free from weeds, and see that the islands are properly fastened so that -they cannot drift about with the wind." - -We may add to the story of the youth that at the time of the Conquest -there were thousands of these chinampas, and they annually paid a good -revenue to the Aztec authorities. The Valley of Mexico appears to have -been more densely peopled at that time than it is to-day, as every inch -of solid earth was tilled to its fullest capacity, and the necessity -arose for utilizing the marshes and also the surface of the lakes. In -the days of Cortez the floating gardens covered Lake Tezcoco, but as -time has gone on they have disappeared from that brackish sheet, and are -now practically confined to the two lakes we have mentioned and the -canals leading to them. - -[Illustration: CACTUS GROWTHS NEAR THE HILL OF ESTRELLA.] - -Our young friends kept a sharp watch for the Hill of Estrella, and there -was a good-natured rivalry between them as to who should be the first to -discover it. Frank was the fortunate one in this instance, for he caught -a glimpse of the conical peak while Fred was looking in the wrong -direction. It is of porphyritic sandstone, and about 500 feet in height; -the sides are steep in some places, and here and there it is possible to -discover some of the old masonry which converted the hill into a huge -teocalli like the Pyramid of Cheops. - -[Illustration: ROCK INSCRIPTIONS MADE BY ANCIENT AZTECS.] - -The modern village is at the base of the hill, and there the youths -landed and engaged horses to carry them to the summit. The view is quite -extensive, and shows a wide area of lakes and valley, and the mountains -that engirdle them. But they would hardly have made the ascent of -Estrella for the view alone; it was rather because the place has an -ancient fame, and was at one time the most sacred in Mexico. - -"We have mentioned elsewhere," said Frank, "that the Mexicans had ages, -or cycles, of fifty-two years, and at the end of each cycle they had an -unusual ceremony, the Festival of Fire, which was not repeated till the -end of another cycle. Well, this hill was the scene of the ceremony, -which was held on the evening that the constellation of the Pleiades -approached the zenith. According to Prescott's history of the conquest -of Mexico, a procession of priests on that evening led a noble victim, a -captive of the highest rank, to be sacrificed on the hill of Estrella. -For five days previous the people had extinguished all their fires in -their temples and dwellings, broken their idols, and given themselves up -to despair, as they were taught that the world was coming to an end. - -"After the Pleiades had passed the zenith the victim was slaughtered, -and a new fire was kindled by the friction of sticks in his wounded -breast. Then couriers stood ready with torches, which were lighted at -the new fire, and from the hill of Estrella it was carried all through -the kingdom. For thirteen days following this event there was general -festivity everywhere; and the Festival of Fire may be considered the -national carnival of the Aztecs." - -Frank and Fred were naturally eager to ascertain what kind of fishes -were to be found in the lakes, and they learned in a very practical way. -Near Estrella they saw some men fishing with rod and line, and at their -suggestion one of the boatmen obtained some of the fish, which proved to -be a species of trout. They were not more than three or four inches -long, and in order to cook them the boatman made a charcoal fire in the -bottom of his craft. The fish were fried on the coals, and were -remarkably fat and juicy. The youths thought they had not in a long time -tasted anything so delicious, but the Doctor reminded them that they -were hungry, and since early in the morning had been out in the open -air. - -[Illustration: HOME SCENE NEAR THE LAKE.] - -There are several varieties of fish in the fresh-water lakes of the -Valley of Mexico, but in the salt or brackish Lake Tezcoco there is only -one kind, and some people think he is not entitled to be called a fish. -He is shaped like one, but has four legs and a long, eel-like tail. He -belongs more properly to the lizard family than to that of the fishes, -and is a disgusting object to contemplate. He grows to about ten inches -in length. Frank thought he should go hungry a long time rather than eat -of this reptile, who is called _axolotl_ in the Aztec tongue, and -_ajolote_ by the Spaniards. - -"Does anybody venture to eat this creature?" Fred asked. - -"Certainly," answered his informant; "the Indians eat its flesh, which -resembles that of an eel. White men who have got over their prejudice -say it is toothsome, and many a stranger has devoured axolotl under the -name of fried eel, and enjoyed it too." - -"There's a great deal in a name and in prejudice," was the youth's -commentary as he changed the subject to something else. - -That something was a peculiar article of food even stranger than -axolotl. Its scientific name is _Ahuatlea Mexicana_, and it consists of -the eggs of a peculiar fly, which are deposited on the reeds and rushes -growing in the shallow places along the borders of the lake. A traveller -who visited Mexico two and a half centuries ago wrote of this substance -as follows: - -"The Indians gathered much of this and kept it in Heaps, and made -thereof Cakes like unto Brick-bats, and they did eat this with as good a -Stomach as we eat Cheese; yea, and they hold Opinion that this Scum, or -Fatness, of the Water is the Cause that such great number of Fowl cometh -to the Lake, which in the winter Season is infinite." - -Custom has not changed in two hundred and fifty years. They sell these -"cakes like unto brick-bats" in the markets of Mexico to-day, and the -Indians eat the stuff with good relish. It bears some resemblance to -fine fish-roe; and after all, prejudice again being removed, and one -being hungry, it is not bad eating. The Indians gather these insects by -myriads and pound them into paste, which is afterwards wrapped in -corn-husks, and forms an article of food second only to the one just -mentioned. The laying capacity of the insect, which is about the size of -an ordinary fly, is something marvellous, surpassing the abilities of -the choicest fowls that ever were reared. - -[Illustration: A DEAD FLY.] - -"You may judge how abundant these insects are," said Frank, "when I -tell you they settle down so thickly on the water that we thought they -were shoals, or mud-banks! Fortunately for us, they didn't sting, nor -did they even settle on the boat." - -In one of his letters to the King describing the country he had -conquered Cortez gave a minute account of the lakes in the neighborhood -of Tenochtitlan, and naturally mentioned the fact that they had no -outlet. He solved the mystery of the disappearance of the waters by -gravely declaring that there was a large hole in the bottom of Lake -Tezcoco by which the lake was drained. A century later an engineer was -sent from Spain to find the hole in the bottom of the lake. He made many -surveys, but was unable to discover it, and finally concluded that the -surplus water was carried off by evaporation. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF A TOLTEC HOUSE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -COURTSHIP IN MEXICO.--"PLAYING THE BEAR."--LOVERS' TROUBLES.--A SHORT -ROAD TO MATRIMONY.--PRESENTS TO THE EXPECTANT BRIDE.--THE MARRIAGE -CEREMONY.--TEDIOUS PRELIMINARIES.--CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS -MARRIAGES.--DIFFERENCES OF MARRIAGE AMONG THE COMMON PEOPLE AND THE -UPPER CLASSES.--A HAND-BOOK FOR LOVERS.--FUNERALS; HOW THEY ARE -MANAGED.--CARDS OF CONDOLENCE.--CEMETERIES.--MONUMENT TO AMERICAN -SOLDIERS.--ANNUAL DEATH-RATE IN MEXICO CITY.--PREVALENT -DISEASES.--DOMESTIC SERVANTS; THEIR NUMBER, WAGES, AND MODE OF LIFE.--A -PECULIAR LAUNDRY SYSTEM. - - -One day while Frank and Fred were strolling along the streets, observing -the people and their ways, studying the architecture, and making other -observations, according to their custom, their attention was drawn to a -young man who was walking slowly up and down in front of a house. His -movements were so peculiar that Frank asked their guide what the man was -about. - -[Illustration: A FORTUNATE BEAR.] - -"Oh, he's playing the bear!" was the reply. - -"And what is 'playing the bear?' I would like to know," the youth -responded. - -"He's making love," the guide explained; "that's the Mexican way of -courtship." - -This was a subject of special interest to the youths, as they knew their -sisters and all the other young ladies at home would wish to know about -it. Accordingly, they proceeded to inform themselves concerning the -Mexican form of wooing, and here is the result of their inquiries: - -"Courtship in this country," wrote Frank, "is a serious matter, and -requires a great deal of patience. Young ladies are carefully secluded -from anything more than the most formal acquaintance with young men, and -there is no such thing here as the freedom of social manners that we -have at home. When a young man has fixed his thoughts upon a fair damsel -whom he has met at a party, or to whom he has been introduced in the -Zocalo, he begins his courtship by walking up and down the street in -front of her house and keeping his eyes fixed on one of the balconies, -which he has somehow ascertained is the proper one for his gaze. A hint -has been conveyed to the young lady that he will be there, and also to -her parents and sisters. This hint may be given by the priest, who -frequently serves as an intermediary; by some relative of the young man; -or by means of a note sent to the young lady herself through the medium -of the _portero_, or door-keeper, whose trouble must be paid for with -cash in advance. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN COURTSHIP.] - -"This promenading in front of the house is kept up for hours at a time -day after day, and also at night, and is what is called 'playing the -bear.' It is generally done on foot, but sometimes the lover appears on -horseback, the lady having been notified, through the subsidized -portero, at what hour he may be expected. - -[Illustration: CODE-SIGNALLING WITH THE FAN.] - -"The lover is observed by the lady and her mother and the other feminine -members of the family, who sit inside the window and are partially, if -not wholly, screened from sight. If the match is favored by the parents -the 'bear business' lasts only a month, or perhaps two or three months; -but if it is not so favored the lover may keep it up for a long time, or -until he gets discouraged and withdraws his suit. Of course it happens -here as in other countries that parental opposition occasionally -develops the young lady's affection, and then the young couple resort to -all sorts of stratagems to exchange _billets-doux_. Letters are raised -or lowered by means of strings, or transmitted through the hands of the -portero already mentioned. In the case of parental opposition the -portero runs a great risk, and consequently must be highly paid. -Courtship under such circumstances is a luxury that only the affluent -can afford. - -"When the proper time arrives, provided everything is running smoothly, -the young man, accompanied by a gentleman friend older than himself, -calls on the father of the girl, and makes a proposal for her hand. The -father says he will see about it, and the visitors take their leave. - -"The father asks the girl if she desires to marry the young man. However -much she may desire to do so she must profess indifference and say she -cannot tell until she has met him. Then he is invited to call, and when -he responds he is met by the entire family, including the servants. -After he becomes the _novio oficial_, or accepted lover, he has the -privilege of calling without a friend; but at no time is he ever left -for a moment alone with the young lady. All interviews must be in the -presence of a member of the family or of a duenna, no matter how long -the courtship may continue after the formal acceptance. - -[Illustration: "THERE HE IS."] - -"As the time for the marriage ceremony approaches the groom has a -serious matter to contemplate--the 'matter o' money' connected with -matrimony. He must furnish the house and home, and also buy the bridal -outfit. Not infrequently the parents of the bride relieve him of a part -of the expense, though they allow him to buy the jewels and bridal -dresses. One thing that he must provide, according to a -long-established custom, is an ivory-covered prayer-book; whatever else -he fails in he must not be negligent in this. Eight or ten weeks before -the ceremony, the pair must register at church, giving their names, -ages, etc., very much as they do in some of the American States. A -similar registry is made at the civil office. The banns must be -published for five Sundays, and the bride must state before the priest -and a notary that she marries 'of her own free-will.' The civil marriage -takes place a few days before the ceremony in the church, and when the -matter is ended the young couple are fairly launched into wedded life." - -"Hadn't you better say something," Fred remarked, "about the ceremony -itself?" - -"That's hardly necessary," replied Frank, "as it is not much unlike the -ceremony in all Catholic countries, and has been described over and over -again. There are some local customs, however, that may be worth noting; -for instance, a lady describes a wedding that she saw here in a church, -where the groom passed several gold coins into the bride's hands, as an -indication that she was to manage their financial affairs. But the -chances are more than even that he did not permit her to do anything of -the kind. When they knelt at the altar a silken scarf was put around -their shoulders and a silver cord around their necks, to indicate their -complete union." - -"A cynical commentator might say," observed Fred, "that the silver cord -indicated that the couple was united by financial considerations." - -"That's something I've nothing to do with," answered Frank, quietly; -"we'll go on with our description. But it is said that marriages in -Mexico depend more on social, family, or business matters than upon -sentiment." - -"After the church ceremony," he continued, "there is a festival to which -intimate friends are invited. Then the pair send cards to all friends -and reasonably intimate acquaintances announcing their marriage, and the -notice winds up with an equivalent for the 'at home' card of married -couples in the United States and England. - -[Illustration: A STUDENT OF "EL SECRETARIO."] - -"And one thing more," added Frank, "while we are on this subject. A -woman who never marries is not stigmatized as an 'old maid,' as is often -the case in the Northern States. Nobody ever thinks of suggesting that -she has never had an offer of marriage; the remark about her always is -that 'she is difficult to suit' even though no man may ever have thought -of showing her any attention. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN WEDDING IN THE COUNTRY.] - -"Of course, you understand that in the marriage just described I had the -upper classes in mind. Among the common people there is much less -ceremony and formality; marriages are generally arranged by the parish -priest, who conducts the principal part of the negotiations, and he has -also a great deal to say on the subject among the middle, or tradesman, -class. There is as much feasting and revelry as the parties can afford, -and generally more than is prudent for them. Sometimes matches are made -up by the parents of the young couple, without any consultation with -them; but as children in this country are obedient to their parents, -they are very unlikely to make any opposition to matches thus arranged." - -Frank invested a real in a pamphlet called "El Secretario de los -Amantes," or, to translate somewhat freely, "the hand-book of lovers." -It is probably the most widely circulated book in the Mexican republic, -and is as popular among young people as is "The Complete Letter-Writer," -among those whose education has not been all they could wish, and who -have occasion for epistolary correspondence. - -The earnest attention which was given to this little work as soon as it -fell into the hands of the youths led to a suspicion on the part of the -Doctor that Frank and Fred meditated a little love-making on their own -account, by way of experiment. But so far as we have been informed, -nothing of the kind occurred; should any later information on the -subject come to hand, it will be duly set forth in the second edition of -"The Boy Travellers in Mexico." - -The "Secretario" contains a code of cipher writing, forms for using -numerals in place of the letters of the alphabet, symbols for each of -the twenty-four hours of the day and night or the fractions thereof, and -the one-hand alphabet for deaf-mutes. The necessity for this alphabet in -love-making, and the practice that comes from it, may probably be the -reason why many Spanish-Americans occasionally make signs in -conversation, instead of speaking in words. There are chapters of advice -to lovers, and there is a full signal code for the use of the fan, the -handkerchief, the sombrero, and the glove. Spanish women have long been -famed for their skill with the fan, and for the conversations they can -conduct with its aid, and it has a very important place in the language -of love. - -[Illustration: FLOWERS FOR A LADY.] - -In most editions of the book there is a separate chapter on the language -of flowers and their various meanings accordingly as they are arranged -or combined with others. A love-story can be told in the skilful -construction of a bouquet--at least enough of it to form the opening -chapter. There is also a language of fruits, and Fred suggested that -there should be one of tortillas, frijoles, tamals, and other articles -of the Mexican cuisine. - -"Here is a wide range," said he, "for the author of 'El Secretario.' -Provide each of the lovers with a thermometer, and then the temperature -of a tortilla, as it is tossed into or out of a window, can be made to -express a great deal. Forty degrees Fahrenheit might mean, 'My love is -cold,' and one hundred and twenty degrees would say, 'I'm sighing like -the furnace.' Ninety degrees signifies, 'Look out for the old -gentleman,' and one hundred would literally say, 'I'm up to par.' The -new edition of the book, with the tortilla annex, ought to sell like--" - -"Like hot cakes," Frank remarked, and then the subject of matrimony was -dropped. - -The youths next considered the subject of the funeral, a ceremony with -which the Church has quite as much to do as with weddings. It was Fred's -turn to make an investigation, and commit his information to writing, -and the following is the result of his efforts: - -[Illustration: FUNERAL OF GENERAL DOBLADO, GUANAJUATO.] - -"One of the odd things about funerals in this city," wrote the youth, -"is that they go by rail to the cemetery. The enterprising manager of -the street railways formed his scheme, and then bought up all the -hearses, so as to compel the populace to adopt his plan. There was -opposition to it at first, but a short trial showed that it was much -more economical than the old system. There is a good service of funeral -cars, and they are graduated to suit all purses that have any money at -all in them. The range of prices is from three to one hundred and twenty -dollars; for the lowest sum a single car drawn by a mule is supplied, -and for the highest figure one may have a hearse-car, gorgeously draped, -plumed, and liveried, drawn by a pair of black horses, and with -attendants appropriately liveried and of most solemn countenance. The -hearse-car is followed by two, and perhaps three cars, containing the -mourners, friends of the deceased, and others, who go to make up the -funeral cortége, and these cars are as appropriately draped as the -hearse. Ranging between the highest and lowest figures are half a dozen -or even more 'outfits,' so that any desires can be met. - -"Another curious custom is that poor people rent handsome coffins to be -used during the funeral ceremony, the body being transferred to a plain -unpainted box as soon as it reaches the cemetery. - -"Funeral cards are printed in the newspapers along with the -advertisements, and sometimes they have been inadvertently placed among -the 'amusements.' They are also posted on the street corners and in -other places where they can be seen, and printed cards heavily bordered -with black are sent to relatives and friends. There is a fashionable -card form for a funeral as much so as for a wedding, and it would be a -great social blunder to vary from the conventional style. Friends and -relatives must respond to these cards, and any one who has a large -circle of acquaintance is obliged to write a good many notes of -condolence in the course of a year. - -"When we first arrived in the city we were somewhat surprised at the -large number of people in mourning, until we learned that mourning is -worn not only for relatives but for friends, and there is a prescribed -time for which it must be worn in each case. Suppose a school-girl's -father or mother dies, her companions put on mourning for fifteen days; -if the girl herself dies they go into mourning for a month. The same -rule holds throughout society, and there is also a rule that when one -visits a house where the family is in mourning, the visitor must be -costumed in mourning also. The result is that fashionable people are in -mourning for a goodly part of the year, and a mourning suit, or dress, -is a necessity for everybody's wardrobe. - -"It is not the custom generally for ladies to attend funerals, but they -send cards of condolence and make visits of _pésame_ (regret) -immediately after the ceremony. Families in mourning are secluded from -society very much as in other civilized countries. - -"The old cemeteries which are now in the city limits are closed, and no -more burials can be made there. They have a general resemblance to the -cemeteries that we described in chapter xxii. of 'The Boy Travellers in -South America.' Those who can afford permanent burial for their -relatives or friends take a perpetual lease of the niche where the -corpse is deposited; in such case the word _propiedad_ is placed over -the entrance, along with the date when the entombment was made. If only -a temporary lease is taken, the remains are removed at the end of five -years to make room for a new tenant. The bones are either buried in one -of the new cemeteries or thrown into a pit, where the bones of hundreds -who once breathed the air and walked the streets of Mexico are -indiscriminately mingled. The new cemeteries are laid out in modern -fashion; we visited those of Campo Florida and La Piedad and saw some -very tasteful tombs, which indicated to us both the tender remembrance -of the Mexicans for their dead and the skill of the designers of the -monuments. - -[Illustration: SOLDIERS' MONUMENT IN THE AMERICAN CEMETERY.] - -"We have also visited the English, French, German, and American -cemeteries; all of them have recently increased their population with -greater rapidity than formerly, owing to the influx of foreigners. In -the American cemetery our attention was specially drawn to the monument -which marks the resting-place of four hundred soldiers who fell in the -attack upon Mexico, the circumstance of their death being told by a -brief inscription. The English and American cemeteries are side by -side, and as time goes on it is probable that both will need additional -ground. - -"A medical publication here gives the annual death-rate of the city of -Mexico as about 37 in 1000, but it says that many Indians come here from -the lower lands and die of exposure and the effects of the rarefied air -at this great elevation. In one year recently there were 13,008 deaths, -of which 5577 were males and 6431 females; 4292 deaths were from -pneumonia, bronchitis, and pulmonary and tuberculous affections, and -there were 179 deaths from small-pox. Diseases of the lungs are dreaded, -and those who have resided here for any length of time take great -precautions against them. It is not considered safe to remove the hat in -the open air for any length of time, and a stranger should be very -particular about venturing into a draught. He should also take care not -to emerge suddenly from a dimly lighted room to the dazzling sunshine; -the air at this elevation is very pure, and the light is consequently -strong. We have been told that persons neglecting this precaution have -become permanently blind." - -[Illustration: TAKING THINGS EASY.] - -Frank and Fred had learned, before being long in Mexico, that there were -many things to be avoided in the rarefied air of the valley, or, if not -avoided, they should be taken with caution. Ascending stair-ways, or -other laborious exercise, at an elevation of 7600 feet had to be done -with deliberation, and the least unusual exertion was sure to put them -out of breath. They were more sedate in their walking than in New York -or other cities on or near the sea-level, and as for running, it was -quite out of the question. Frank said he was sure that much of the -traditional slowness of the people was due to their high elevation, and -the need of taking things easily. - -"Yes," replied Fred, "that's probably why this is the land of mañana. -The people don't like exertion, and so they put off till to-morrow -everything that can be postponed, together with many things that have -been positively promised for to-day." - -"If they had been in a more northerly climate," said Frank, "it is -probable that the Mexicans would be more advanced than we find them. -Their location in the tropics has not been to their advantage. The -opening of our railways will connect them with northern climes, and if -we can fill the Valley of Mexico with our atmosphere it may enable them -to breathe quicker than they do now." - -[Illustration: A CHARCOAL PEDDLER.] - -The attention of the youths was turned from the elevation and atmosphere -to some of the customs of the country, which they had learned from their -guide or from others. They were told that it was estimated that about -one-fifth the population was in household or domestic service in one -form or another, directly or indirectly. The direct form would include -those attached to a household, the indirect those who supply water, -wood, charcoal, and other necessities of life, or perform outside work -for families or individuals. The wages are low, but a great many -servants are employed, so that the aggregate foots up to a large amount. - -"There are from ten to twenty servants employed in a house," wrote Fred, -"and we are told that large establishments will have thirty or even -more. It is very much here as we found it in India--a great number of -people, each with an allotted thing to do, and a servant would risk -losing his place rather than do anything that belonged to another. - -"Here's a list," he added, "that I have copied from the description of a -Mexican household by an American visitor: _portero_, door-keeper; -_cochero_, coachman; _lacayo_, footman; _caballerango_, hostler; _mozo_, -man of all sorts of work; _cargador_, public carrier; _camarista_, -chamber-man in a hotel, or valet in a private house; _recamerera_, -chamber-maid in a private house; _ama de llaves_, house-keeper, -'mistress of the keys;' _cocinera_, cook; _galopina_, kitchen girl; -_pilmana_, nurse-maid. - -"There are other servants, such as the _molendera_, the woman who grinds -the corn (for making tortillas); the _costurera_, sewing-woman; or the -_planchadora_, ironing-woman. The most important servant is the -_portero_, who has general charge of the house, and sometimes of a large -building in which several families live. He is the exact counterpart of -the German door-keeper, and, like him, generally lives with his family -in a narrow retreat, which is situated so that he can command the -entrance and observe who comes in or goes out. Servants do not change -places as often as in England or the United States. It is by no means -rare for them to spend their entire lives with a family; their parents -before them served it, and their children will do so when they -themselves are gone. - -"The cook receives from two to five dollars a month, and chamber-maids -and seamstresses the same. The men-servants are paid from ten dollars a -month upwards, and out of their wages they are required to buy part of -their food, and in some cases all of it. At least this is the theory, -though the practice is that the employer really supports them, though -indirectly. Servants are nearly always in debt to their employers, and -this state of affaire is encouraged by law, as they are not allowed to -leave a place as long as they are in debt. The only way in which this -can be done is for the employer to assume the debt, pay the creditor, -and then collect the amount by holding back a portion of the servant's -wages each month till the obligation is discharged." - -When Fred read aloud the foregoing account of the Mexican servants and -their ways, Doctor Bronson suggested that he might add something about -the _lavanderas_, or laundresses. - -"That's so," replied the youth; "I had forgotten about them for the -moment." Then he sat down and wrote as follows: - -"Some of the houses have laundries, where the washing is done; but many -dwellings are not thus provided, and the clothes are taken outside to be -cleansed. In the smaller cities the washing is done on the banks of a -stream or lake; the clothes being first put into a tub or box and soaked -in water in which soap has been dissolved; then they are pounded with -sticks or stones and rubbed with the hands. The work is not done with -gentleness, and a few trips to the laundry generally wear out garments -made of ordinary material. Some of the lavanderas undertake to wash, -starch, and iron the clothes, while others attend only to the washing, -and leave the other work as a separate contract with the planchadora. -The employer is generally expected to furnish soap for washing clothes, -and very often the servants are supplied with it for their own use, in -addition to their wages." - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN WASH-HOUSE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -SCULPTURE AND PAINTING IN MEXICO.--NATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE FINE -ARTS.--BRIEF HISTORY OF MEXICAN ART.--CELEBRATED PAINTINGS.--"LAS CASAS -PROTECTING THE AZTECS."--"THE DEATH OF ATALA."--HOW AN ARTIST MANAGED TO -SELL A PICTURE.--FROM ART TO _PULQUERIAS_.--THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF -MEXICO.--THE MAGUEY PLANT.--HOW _PULQUE_ IS MADE.--COLLECTING THE -SAP.--FERMENTING _AGUAMIEL_.--DAILY CONSUMPTION OF _PULQUE_ IN THE CITY -OF MEXICO.--MANAGEMENT OF THE SHOPS.--ROMANTIC HISTORY OF THE INVENTION -OF _PULQUE_.--MEXICAN POLICE-COURTS.--NOVEL MODE OF TRYING CASES.--THE -BELEM PRISON.--CATALOGUE OF OFFENCES AGAINST THE LAW.--AN ADROIT -THIEF.--RUNNING THE GANTLET. - - -From laundries to the fine arts is a step from the practical to the -æsthetic. After finishing their account of Mexican domestic service, -Frank and Fred accompanied Doctor Bronson in a visit to the National -School of Fine Arts, which is commonly spoken of as the Academy of San -Carlos. It must not be understood that this was their first visit to -this excellent institution; they had been there several times, and it -was their intention to continue to look at the paintings in the Academy -whenever they had an hour or two to spare. - -[Illustration: THE LANDING OF COLUMBUS.] - -Within ten years after the arrival of Cortez a college was founded in -the city of Mexico by one of the Franciscan brothers, and to this -college departments of music and drawing were attached. This may be -considered the parent art school of Mexico, and from it is descended the -Academy of Fine Arts as we see it to-day. No great progress was made in -art matters until near the end of the sixteenth century, when a Spanish -artist, Sebastian Arteaga, came to Mexico, and was shortly followed by -Vasquez and Echave, the last-named being accompanied by his wife, who -was an accomplished painter, and is traditionally said to have been -Echave's teacher. - -The seventeenth century brought several artists from Spain, and they did -some good work; at the same time native talent began to assert itself, -and several artists and sculptors of Indian blood made for themselves -lasting names. In the eighteenth century the most noted artist, who was -also sculptor and architect, was Tresguerras, a native of Zelaya, in the -State of Guanajuato, on the line of the Mexican Central Railway, and he -deserves more than passing mention. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN SCULPTURE.--DOOR-WAY OF CHURCH OF SAN JOSÉ.] - -The Church of Our Lady of Carmen, at Zelaya, was designed by -Tresguerras, and is famous throughout Mexico for its beauty and artistic -proportions. The tower and dome are especially the admiration of -architects and artists, and the whole effect of the structure, whether -in a near or a distant view, is most agreeable. The interior is adorned -with frescoes and paintings in oil by Tresguerras, and he has been, not -inappropriately, styled "the Michael Angelo of Mexico." - -Frank and Fred gleaned the foregoing information from Mr. Janvier's -"Mexican Guide," during their first visit to the Academy, and they also -learned from the same excellent authority that the present Academy had -its actual beginning in 1779 through a school of engraving established -in the mint. The success of the engraving school and the general -interest in it caused the director of the mint to seek the permission of -the viceroy to establish schools of painting, sculpture, and -architecture; and the permission was readily granted. Later the matter -was referred to the King, who issued, in December, 1783, an order for -the foundation of the Academy. On the 4th of November, 1785, the formal -opening of the Academia de las Nobles Artes de San Carlos de la Nueva -España took place, and this is the institution which the youths visited -on repeated occasions whenever they had any spare time on their hands. -It is proper to say that the school was originally opened in the mint, -but in 1791 it was removed to the building where it now is. - -Like most other institutions of Mexico, it has had many ups and downs, -consequent upon the political changes through which the country has -passed. At present it has an allowance of about $35,000 annually from -the Government, and is regularly a Government affair, its name having -been changed in 1868 to the National School of the Fine Arts. Prizes are -given for meritorious work by the students, all tuition is free, and -there is an average attendance of about one hundred throughout the year. -One prize which is specially sought is an allowance of $600 a year for -six years to enable the recipient to study art in Italy. Within the last -few years night classes have been established for working-people, and -have been well attended. - -"We will not undertake to give you a list of all the paintings we saw," -wrote Frank, "nor even a part of them, as in any event it would be -tedious to anybody at a distance. The pictures are arranged in three -large galleries and two small ones, and they are grouped together -according to their age and the nativity of their painters. One gallery -contains paintings by the old masters of Europe, another is devoted to -old Mexican masters, and another to pupils of the Academy. - -[Illustration: LAS CASAS PROTECTING THE AZTECS.] - -"The finest picture in the last-named collection, that of the pupils of -the Academy, is by Felix Parra, and is entitled 'Las Casas protecting -the Aztecs.' Parra painted it before he had seen any country except -Mexico, and he received the first prize at the Academy of Rome on -account of the merit displayed in this work. I will not attempt to -describe the painting, but send a photograph by which you may judge of -it. The coloring is, of course, lost in the photograph, but you can get -an idea of the drawing and the sentiment of the picture. Las Casas is -represented standing on the steps of a teocalli, and at his feet is the -dead body of a Mexican chief, who has been slain by the Spaniards; while -an Aztec woman clings imploringly to the robe of the priest. - -"The painting is a historic one, and the story it illustrates is this: - -"Las Casas was a Spanish prelate who accompanied Columbus to the West -Indies and afterwards came to Mexico. He was horrified at the treatment -of the natives by their conquerors, and he crossed the ocean no less -than twelve times to intercede with the King of Spain in their behalf. -He was unsuccessful in nearly all his efforts, though he finally -persuaded the Emperor Charles V. to make some effort to redress the -wrongs which the Indians were suffering at the hands of the Spaniards. -He risked his life on many occasions on behalf of the natives, as we -read in Prescott's histories, and when the Emperor offered him the -bishopric of Cuzco, one of the richest appointments in the Spanish -colonies, he declined it and accepted that of Chiapas, one of the -poorest and most ignorant. He died in Madrid in 1566, at the age of -ninety-two years. - -"Every time we visit the gallery we linger in front of this picture, and -are never weary of admiring and studying it. Many good critics pronounce -it not only the best painting in the gallery where it hangs, but the -best in the entire collection of the Academy. This is high praise, -indeed, when we remember that the Academy has works by Leonardo da -Vinci, Murillo, Rubens, Correggio, and Velasquez. - -[Illustration: THE DEATH OF ATALA.] - -"Another fine painting of the modern Mexican school is the 'Death of -Atala.' Felix Parra is represented by other works in addition to the Las -Casas; one of these is 'The Massacre in the Temple,' which also has -historic value. It illustrates the butchery of the natives in the temple -by Alvarado, whom Cortez had left at the capital city while he -personally went to the coast to meet the ships and troops that had been -sent from Cuba to reinforce the invading army. As the history of Mexico -was closely identified with the Church down to within twenty years or -so, it naturally occurs that nearly all the paintings of former days are -of a religious character, just as we find the paintings in the galleries -of Europe." - -[Illustration: A SUCCESSFUL ARTIST AT WORK.] - -One day in their visit to the Academy the youths met a gentleman to whom -they had been previously introduced, and one of them asked if the -wealthy people of Mexico gave much encouragement to native art. - -"I'm sorry to say they do not," was the reply. "It has not yet become -the fashion to buy modern paintings, but some of our rich men are -setting the example, and as the country becomes developed and more -wealthy, the example may be followed. But just at present the best -patrons of art are the _pulque_ shops, and as their patrons are not very -critical, it does not require a high talent to meet their wants. In -private houses there is a greater demand for huge mirrors than for fine -paintings, and the value of the plate-glass mirrors in the city of -Mexico is far beyond that of the modern works of art to be found here. -Many an artist of fair promise has been obliged to abandon the dream of -his life, and obtain a living by painting for the _pulquerias_, or -selling silk and woollens behind the counter of a shop." - -The gentleman then told a story of a native artist who had painted a -canvas some eight feet by six, representing "The Landing of Columbus." -Months and months passed and he could not find a purchaser though he -lowered his price to half its original figure; then at the advice of a -friend he made a few changes in the ships, costumes, coloring, and -scenery, and entitled the picture "Evacuation of Mexico by the French." -In less than a week he found a customer who made not the least objection -to the price which was set upon the work. - -The mention of pulquerias naturally drew attention to those -establishments, which abound in Mexico as do beer shops in New York. -Fred undertook an essay concerning them and the substance in which they -deal. - -"Pulque is the product of the _Agave Mexicana_, or maguey plant," wrote -the youth, "and a description of Mexico without a reference to it would -be like 'Hamlet' without Hamlet. It is the beverage of Mexico as beer is -that of Germany and wine the drink of France. Along the line of the -railway, as we were coming southward, we passed many fields of maguey, -and several times we saw the collectors gathering the juice of the plant -for conversion into pulque. - -"Nobody knows when pulque was invented, as it was in use here centuries -before Cortez was born. There are many fables concerning it, and like -most fables of the kind, the discovery of the use which could be made of -the juice of the maguey is generally attributed to the gods. One more -practicable fable is that a Toltec noble discovered it and sent some of -the pulque to the King, by the hand of his daughter, Xochitl. The King -was so delighted with the drink and the maiden that he swallowed the -former and married the latter, and their son succeeded him as king. This -was the beginning of the downfall of the Toltecs and their extinction as -a nation, but the art of making pulque was not lost; the name of the -lovely Xochitl has been preserved in the Aztec name of the beverage, -_ochtl_. During our war with Mexico the soldiers under Generals Taylor -and Scott drank the liquid, and in attempting to pronounce its Aztec -name they generally got no nearer to it than 'cocktail.' They carried -the word back to the States, and Doctor Bronson tells us that it is -occasionally heard there at this day in clubs and hotels, where it is -applied to beverages in which spirits, bitters, and other ingredients -are mingled. - -[Illustration: MAGUEY PLANT.] - -"The maguey belongs to the cactus family of plants, and there are said -to be forty varieties of it. Twenty-two yield _aguamiel_, or -honey-water, from which pulque is made, and the others are used for -hedges and for making paper, cords, and other things. In former times -the natives are said to have had not less than a hundred uses for the -maguey plant in addition to its production of pulque. They made paper -from the pulp of the leaves, cords and thread from the fibre, needles -from the thorns, shingles and troughs from the leaves, and the little -clothing they wore was generally made from the thread derived from the -maguey. The leaves are sometimes ten feet long by a foot wide, and like -the leaves of the other members of the cactus family, they are of great -thickness. - -"When the maguey plant is about ten years old it sends up a single -stalk in the centre which often rises to a height of twenty-five or -thirty feet. This stalk is covered with flowers, hundreds and sometimes -thousands of them, and they are of a yellowish green color. After -blossoming the plant dies, very much as does the sago-tree and some -other tropical growths; a single blossoming is all that it is capable of -in its lifetime. And here is where the pulque comes in, or, rather, -comes out. - -[Illustration: THE TLACHIQUERO.] - -"The Indians watch the plants closely when the flower-stalk is expected -to appear, and just at the right time they cut out the centre of the -stem, leaving a hollow as large over as an ordinary washbowl but a good -deal deeper. The sap, which was intended to nourish the flower-stalk, -flows into this cavity, and flows so rapidly that it must be emptied -every few hours. The leaves on one side of the plant are cut away so -that the cavity can be reached, and then the _tlachiquero_, or -collector, makes his rounds. - -[Illustration: EXTRACTING AGUAMIEL.] - -"He is equipped with a gourd open at both ends; inserting the broad end -into the cavity, he sucks up the juice (_aguamiel_), and then deposits -it in a pig-skin hanging over his back, or in pig-skins or earthen jars -on the back of a donkey. - -"The aguamiel is carried to the central station of the establishment, -where it is poured into shallow vats of pig or cow skin. There it -ferments and becomes pulque, a vile-smelling liquid which is said to -taste like stale buttermilk; it is almost always repulsive to the -stranger, and sometimes one who comes within smelling distance of pulque -for the first time is made ill by it. A good maguey yields from eight to -fifteen pints daily, and continues to do so for three or four months; -and a good estate of maguey plants is more certain in the revenue it -brings to the owner than any other enterprise. The plants thrive in the -poorest soil where hardly anything else can live. - -"A scientific writer on this subject says: 'An analysis of aguamiel -gives glucose, sugar, and water as the principal ingredients; it froths -when shaken, gives an abundant precipitate with subacetate of lead, and -when filtered the resultant liquor is colorless. Pulque is the product -of the fermentation of aguamiel, is an alcoholic, mucilaginous liquid, -holding in suspension white corpuscles, which give it its color, and has -an odor and taste peculiar to itself. It is more or less sugary -according to its strength, and contains about six per cent. of alcohol.' - -"Pulque is sent from the estates along the railway in barrels and -pig-skins, and the amount consumed in the capital is about 80,000 -gallons daily. There is a pulque train daily to the city; we passed it -at a side-track, and easily detected its presence by the smell of -fermentation. - -"The pulque shops are as discernible to the nose as to the eye; they are -numerous in all the cities and large towns, and very properly are under -the eyes of the police. There are 820 of these shops in the city of -Mexico. They pay a license fee to the Government as do beer and wine -shops in European countries, and the law requires that they shall close -at 6 P.M.; and, what strikes a New Yorker with astonishment, it is -enforced, too. The city derives a revenue of a thousand dollars a day -from the pulque brought here for sale, in addition to what it receives -for shop licenses; the railway probably gets a thousand dollars also for -the daily transportation, and altogether the national drink of Mexico -costs a great deal of money. - -[Illustration: A GLASS OF AGUARDIENTE.] - -"Liquors called _mescal_ and _tequila_ are distilled from pulque, and -contain a larger percentage of alcohol. Then there is a stronger liquor, -called _aguardiente_ (burning water), which is literally described by -its name. Some gentlemen who have tasted it say that it is like -swallowing a torch-like procession or a whole collection of -Fourth-of-July fireworks." - -[Illustration: "NOT CAUGHT YET."] - -From pulquerias to police-courts is a very natural step, and one which -is taken by a good many natives of Mexico. Frank and Fred took it, -though not after the Mexican fashion, as their movement was voluntary, -while that of the native is performed by invitation, or demand, of the -police. The better classes of the population know next to nothing about -the police-courts or where they are held, and it was only after a great -deal of inquiry that the youths learned where and when to go. The guide -who had shown them the sights of the city claimed to be unable to tell -them, and when they ascertained for themselves, he was somewhat -unwilling to accompany them. It is barely possible that he had been -there on his own account altogether too often to make a voluntary visit -agreeable. - -They found the court in the municipal palace, at one side of the Plaza -Mayor. Ascending a staircase, they were shown into a waiting-room, and -beyond it there were several smaller rooms. Two or three gentlemen were -seated at a table in each of the rooms, and seemed to be busily engaged -in discussing something. Frank asked the guide what they were doing. - -[Illustration: A MAGISTRATE.] - -"One of them is a magistrate," was the reply; "and the others are the -lawyers, who are laying a case before him. One is the prosecutor, and -the other is for the defence." - -"But where are the accused and the policemen?" - -"They're down-stairs, or perhaps they haven't got to the palace yet. -They don't come into these rooms at all. The magistrate hears the case -through the lawyers, and doesn't have the prisoner brought before him, -as you do in your country." On further inquiry the youths learned that -the magistrates hear the cases in this way, and decide whether the -complaint shall be dismissed, the prisoner let off with a fine, or sent -to the Belem prison, at the edge of the city. - -Some of the prisoners were, as the guide said, "down-stairs;" but the -greater number were in a building separate from the palace, and situated -on a narrow street close by. There is a court in the prison building, in -which the magistrates hear cases in the same way as at the municipal -palace, without seeing the prisoner; they hear the testimony for and -against him, and decide accordingly. - -At the Belem prison they found another court, where cases were more -carefully considered; but they learned from a gentleman, with whom they -afterwards talked on the subject, that the Mexican courts are -overcrowded with work, and prisoners often have to wait weeks or -months, and even years, before their cases can be heard. A prisoner -against whom a serious accusation has been made can never learn when it -will be called to trial; his friends are not informed; and the only -thing they can do is to watch and wait day after day, or possibly pay -heavily to somebody for his influence with the authorities. Matters are -better now than previous to the Laws of the Reform, but they are still -far from what they should be. - -"We judged," said Fred, "that the Belem prison was greatly overcrowded, -as the court-yard was full of people, and so were the corridors that -overlooked the yard. The prisoners sleep on mats on the floor of the -dormitories, which are about 170 feet long. One hundred men lie in a row -on the mats along the floor of the dormitory, so that there must be very -little room to walk around. The fare of the prisoners consists of twelve -ounces of bread daily, one pound of meat, and a bowl of soup. Three -times a week they have stewed beans in addition to the other food. - -[Illustration: AN OLD OFFENDER.] - -"A prisoner whose sentence exceeds one month is compelled to work, but -he is paid for his labor; one-half his wages go to his family if he has -any, and the rest is saved up by the prison authorities until the man is -discharged, when the money is given to him. This seems to me an -excellent system, and it should be adopted in our own country. In that -case an ex-convict would have something to live upon for a while, -instead of being, as is too often the case, driven into crime to save -himself from starvation. - -"To show the character of Mexican offences, I will quote from the -records of the prison for one month. The whole number of prisoners was -1278, and they were charged with crimes as follows: - -"Thefts, 198; fighting, 109; stabbing, serious, 518; stabbing, slight, -313; wounding with sticks or clubs, 140. - -"Observe that two-thirds of the number were in prison for the use of the -knife, and you get an idea of the propensities of the lower classes of -the population. - -"We have already mentioned the adroitness of Mexican thieves, and we -heard several stories while visiting the prison that confirm what we -have heard. There's a saying here that if you drop a coin it will be -caught before it reaches the ground. They told us a story about the -Chief Magistrate of Mexico City which we were assured was entirely true; -it sounds like a 'chestnut,' but is good enough to be repeated. Here it -is: - -"The magistrate was one day on the street when he remarked to a friend -that he had left his watch hanging over the head of his bed at home. In -less than an hour a thief was at the door with a fat turkey; he said -that it was sent by the magistrate, who wished his wife to send him his -watch, which he had left at the head of his bed. - -"She sent the watch, and when his Honor came home that night he learned -of the trick that had been played. He consoled himself with the -reflection that he had a fat turkey for the next Sunday's dinner, and -would not be obliged to buy anything for that important meal. - -"But the next day an accomplice of the watch-stealer called and said the -magistrate had sent him to get the turkey, which they desired to produce -in court. The man who stole the watch had just been arrested, and the -turkey was needed to secure his conviction, as it was one of the -'properties' in the case. Of course it was promptly sent. - -"So the good man lost both his watch and his turkey, and never heard of -either of them again." - -There is a short road to justice called _ley de fuga_, which is -sometimes travelled in Mexico; it may be translated into "running the -gantlet." By Mexican law an officer has the right to shoot a prisoner -trying to escape. Sometimes, when bandits or murderers are captured, -they are allowed to try to escape, and in their effort to secure their -freedom they take the chances of being killed. Recently this disposition -was made of seven bandits who murdered a German named Müller in the -State of Durango, and then robbed his house, compelling Mrs. Müller to -show where the valuables were kept. They were captured while seated at -table in Müller's house after completing the robbery, a party of -soldiers happening to arrive there most opportunely. As their conviction -and execution were certain, they accepted the offer of the officers to -permit them to try the _ley de fuga_, but not one of them succeeded in -escaping. - -[Illustration: SCENE OF THE CAPTURE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -THE PASEO DE LA REFORMA.--BRIGANDAGE NEAR THE CITY.--STATUE OF CHARLES -IV. OF SPAIN.--STATUE OF COLUMBUS.--A RELIC OF MAXIMILIAN.--AQUEDUCTS -FROM CHAPULTEPEC.--MONTEZUMA'S TREE.--CHAPULTEPEC; ITS HEIGHT AND -EXTENT.--MONTEZUMA'S BATH.--THE PALACE.--"THE FEAST OF -BELSHAZZAR."--NATIONAL MILITARY COLLEGE.--MOLINO DEL REY.--GENERAL -SCOTT'S ADVANCE UPON MEXICO.--CAPTURE OF VERA CRUZ.--BATTLE OF CERRO -GORDO.--ENTERING THE VALLEY.--CONTRERAS AND CHURUBUSCO.--FALL OF -CHAPULTEPEC.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ENTRANCE INTO THE CITY.--TREATY OF -PEACE.--GENERAL GRANT ON THE MEXICAN WAR. - - -[Illustration: A CORNER OF CHAPULTEPEC.] - -One of the most attractive drives in the neighborhood of Mexico is along -the Paseo de la Reforma, the avenue leading to Chapultepec. In point of -fact, it is generally the first drive taken by a visitor, and he is -pretty certain to be favorably impressed with it. Chapultepec was a -royal residence before the Conquest; during the Spanish rule it was the -home of the viceroys, and since that time the President of the republic -has generally lived there when he could live at all in the city or its -vicinity. Maximilian selected it for the location of the Imperial -Palace, and enlarged the then existing buildings; the avenue leading to -it owes its origin to his ambition, and is a monument of his taste for -the beautiful. - -[Illustration: MONTEZUMA'S TREE.] - -Whether the ride to Chapultepec is taken by the tram-way or in a -carriage, the stranger will find it full of interest, and he would do -well to try both means of making the visit. If he is an equestrian he -will hire a saddle-horse, and make the excursion on horseback between -seven and nine o'clock in the morning, when it is the fashion to appear -thus on the Paseo. Doctor Bronson and his young friends followed the -prevailing custom, and through the aid of the manager of the hotel were -satisfactorily provided with steeds. But they were very modestly mounted -in comparison with some of the Mexican equestrians, whose saddles and -saddle-cloths were elaborately ornamented and said to have cost all the -way from one to two thousand dollars each. Some of the horsemen were -armed with sabres and revolvers--a souvenir of a custom which is no -longer necessary, but was emphatically so not many years ago. The road -to Chapultepec, and indeed the roads anywhere in the suburbs, were -infested with brigands, who used to rise up from unexpected spots as -though at the hand of a magician, and perform their work in a very -expeditious manner. - -The enterprising brigands were not content with robbing people on -horseback or in carriages, but occasionally devoted their energies to -kidnapping residents and holding them for ransom. As an illustration of -their performances Frank made note of the following story: - -"One evening while a gentleman was at dinner with his family, in the -suburb of Tacuba, a party of brigands appeared and commanded silence on -the part of all under pain of death. They harmed no one, and did not rob -the house, but they hurried the gentleman into a carriage, and drove -away with him. It was naturally supposed that he had been taken to a -place of concealment among the foot-hills of the mountains that encircle -the valley; but it turned out that his captors drove directly to the -city and secreted their victim in the cellar of a house. There he was -kept for several days, until the police were so closely on the track of -the kidnappers that they fled and left him to make his escape. -Subsequently they were captured and executed; but the circumstance was -not at all a pleasant one for suburban residents to contemplate." - -Fred observed that the Paseo de la Reforma begins at the equestrian -statue of Charles IV., very nearly a mile from the Plaza Mayor. It may -also be said to begin at the Alameda, a beautiful garden of poplar and -other trees, and occupying a historic site. The Alameda includes the -ancient Indian market-place and the Plaza del Quemadero, where the -victims of the Inquisition were burned to death on a stone platform -which was long since removed. Successive viceroys improved it, and -within the last few decades it has been planted with flowers and -otherwise beautified, so that it is now a very attractive spot. - -The statue of Charles IV. is a fine work of art, and notable as the -first bronze casting of any magnitude on this side of the Atlantic; -Humboldt pronounced it second only to the statue of Marcus Aurelius, and -it has received the unstinted praise of many critics who have seen it. -It was cast in 1802, and placed upon its pedestal in the following year. -During the War for Independence it was, in 1822, covered with a large -globe of boards painted blue, and in this condition it remained for two -years, when it was taken down and placed in the court-yard of the -University. In 1852, when the hostility to the Spaniards had somewhat -abated, the statue was restored to its pedestal, and has peacefully -rested there ever since. The casting is in a single piece, and weighs -thirty tons, and the height of horse and rider is only a few inches less -than sixteen feet. - -[Illustration: STATUE OF COLUMBUS ON THE PASEO DE LA REFORMA.] - -From the foot of the statue to the base of Chapultepec is a distance of -3750 yards; the Paseo de la Reforma runs straight as a sunbeam along -this measured length, and it has a width, including the sidewalks, of -fifty-six yards. At regular distances there are _glorietas_, circular -spaces like the _Rond-Point_ of the Champs-Elysées, in Paris, which are -intended for statues of men eminent in the history of Mexico; one of -them is already occupied with a statue of Columbus, who is represented -drawing away the veil that hides the New World. At the corners of the -pedestal are four life-size figures in bronze, and Frank and Fred were -pleased to observe that one of them represented the good missionary Las -Casas, who labored earnestly for the protection of the Indians. A statue -of Guatemozin, the last of the Aztec kings, is destined for the next -space, but had not been erected at the time of the visit of our friends; -the third space was intended for a statue of Cortez, and the fourth for -one of Juarez. The occupants of the other glorietas had not been named, -but they will be men famous in the history of Mexico. From present -indications Maximilian is not likely to be chosen as one of the heroes -to be preserved in bronze. The glorietas are 400 feet in diameter, and -surrounded with stone benches for the accommodation of pedestrian -visitors. - -The Paseo is lined with shade-trees, so that it affords pleasant walks; -the centre of the road-way is reserved for people on horseback, while -the carriages move along the sides. On pleasant afternoons the vehicles -are so numerous that the police have sufficient occupation to keep them -in proper line, and the turnout is a fine one in every way. Frank and -Fred compared the display one afternoon with that of London, Paris, and -New York, under similar circumstances, and after careful consideration -they agreed that the Mexican pageant was more attractive than any one of -the rest. - -"The ground is level, the road finely macadamized, and the way perfectly -straight; the horses and carriages are the best that can be procured; -the equestrians are splendidly mounted, and their apparel and equipments -are picturesque; the ladies are handsomely attired, and many of them -have pretty faces; the panorama of hills and mountains loses none of its -grandeur, and altogether we are in love with the Paseo de la Reforma." - -So wrote Frank, and his cousin gave his hearty indorsement of the -opinion thus presented. - -[Illustration: SAN COSME AQUEDUCT.] - -"Don't forget," said Fred, "to make mention of the aqueducts that supply -the city with water, as they are in sight from this drive. One comes -from back among the hills near the old convent of El Desierto, and the -other leads from a great spring at the foot of Chapultepec. The latter -aqueduct gave shelter to our soldiers during their attack on the gates -of the city after the storming of the castle; from one pillar to another -of the aqueduct they dodged the fire of the Mexican artillery and -infantry, and so gained the front of the gate-way." - -[Illustration: MONTEZUMA'S BATH.] - -"I'll not forget that," replied Frank, "nor the old cypresses under -which Montezuma is said to have sat and walked; but before we get to -them we'll mention that an American company proposes to make an -extension of the city of Mexico by building a suburb on the level tract -of land through which the Paseo runs. This was one of the dreams of -Maximilian, but he had no time or opportunity to put it into practical -shape. His idea has been taken up by the peaceful invaders from the -North, and if it is carried out as they propose, it will not be many -years before the land is materially transformed. Artesian wells have -been sunk in this level space and have found an abundance of water, and -the projectors of the suburb say they will have their own supply without -depending upon either of the aqueducts." - -[Illustration: CHAPULTEPEC AND ITS GARDENS.] - -"Chapultepec is a delightful spot," wrote Fred, "whether considered as a -public resort, a royal or Presidential residence, or for the panoramic -view presented to the visitor as he looks from its top. It is an -isolated rock, or hill, rising about 200 feet, and with a length of 1000 -or 1200 feet, and the top is crowned with the buildings, which have seen -many changes among their occupants as well as in themselves. The sides -are steep in some places, but gradual in others, the steep parts -predominating. All around the base are cypress-trees, whose age is -unknown; but they are certainly very old; and their venerable appearance -is increased by the moss that depends from their limbs. - -"The tree of the greatest interest to us was that which bears the name -of Montezuma. If tradition is correct, the Emperor sat beneath its -shade; and it was possibly while resting here that he received the news -of the approach of those strange white men who had landed upon the -coast, and rode upon animals the like of which were never before known -in America. It is a wonderful tree 170 feet high, and forty-six in -circumference. Like the other great trees of Chapultepec, it is a -cypress; and like the others, too, it is heavily draped with moss, as -though in mourning for the aboriginal ruler, whose kingdom was torn away -by the invader. - -[Illustration: EL SALTO DEL AQUA.] - -"From the tree of Montezuma we went to his bath, which is not far away, -and is the famous spring that fills the aqueduct already mentioned. The -water is cool and clear, and supplied the ancient Tenochtitlan, just as -in later days it was made to supply the Spanish city which rose on the -site of the Aztec one. The aqueduct through which the water flows is -exactly on the line of that of the Aztecs. The Spanish aqueduct was -begun in 1677, and has 904 arches from its starting-point at Chapultepec -to its terminus in the Salto del Agua, or Water-fall, in the city. The -water of Chapultepec is called _agua delgada_, or thin water; while that -supplied by the San Cosme aqueduct is _agua gorda_, or thick water. From -time immemorial the spring has been flowing, and it is supposed to be -fed by underground channels from the mountains. - -"After the tree and the baths we visited the palace, or such part of it -as was open to the public. There is not much worth seeing inside the -building, the most interesting feature about it being the view from the -roof. All the Valley of Mexico, with its girdle of mountains, was before -us; it was like the view from the cathedral tower, with the difference -that the city formed a part of the horizontal view in one direction, -while from the tower it lay beneath and around our feet; and the same -view that included the city embraced also the snowy peaks of -Popocatepetl and the 'White Woman,' which lay a little to the right of -the cluster of domes and roofs standing between us and the silvery sheet -of Tezcoco. In the opposite direction was Tacuba, the spot where Cortez -thought of rebuilding the city which was to rise in place of the -Tenochtitlan he had destroyed. It is to be regretted that he did not do -so, as the site is better adapted to a city; it admits of good drainage, -which the present one does not, and would undoubtedly be healthier. - -[Illustration: AN AZTEC RELIC.] - -"The present palace stands on the site of the one occupied by Montezuma. -Chapultepec was called the 'Hill of the Grasshopper' by the Aztecs, and -in their maps of the valley the hill is represented with a grasshopper -as large as itself perched on the top. We are wondering whether they -really had grasshoppers of that size. What a famine they would create if -they were as numerous as they are to-day in some parts of the West! - -"What a magnificent place this must have been in the time of Montezuma, -according to the description in Prescott's History! Here was an aviary -that alone required 300 attendants, and there was a menagerie of -corresponding extent. Then the King had granaries of immense extent, to -guard against suffering in case of famine; and there were armories with -weapons sufficient for a military force of thousands. The halls of the -palace were spacious, and the royal dining-table was supplied with -delicacies of all kinds from every part of the dominions. Fresh fish -were provided daily by a line of couriers in the same way that they -were supplied to the Khan of Tartary in the days of Marco Polo, and also -to the royal table of Japan. According to the accounts, the runners made -the journey from the coast to the city in very nearly the same time that -it is now made by the railway. - -"We were shown through the palace, which has large halls and galleries, -and is surrounded by terraces paved with marble and affording fine views -of the valley and mountains. Some of the halls and galleries are -elaborately ornamented, while others are quite plain; a portion of the -decorations ordered by Maximilian still remain, and others have been -covered or partly obliterated. The most interesting hall was the grand -saloon, where banquets are occasionally given. It is memorable for -having been the scene of Maximilian's 'Feast of Belshazzar,' as the -Mexicans call it--his grand banquet on his return from Orizaba, just -before he started for Queretaro, for capture, and for execution. Many of -the porcelain dishes marked with the imperial cipher were broken at this -banquet, and are kept as souvenirs by those who secured them. A friend -of ours in New York has one of them; it is part of a saucer, and was -given to him by a gentleman who was in Mexico shortly after the fall of -the Empire. - -"The national military college is at Chapultepec, and adjoins the palace -building. We were told that it is conducted on a plan similar to that of -our military academy at West Point, and contained between three and four -hundred students. There was a military school here at the time of our -war with Mexico. The cadets enlisted for the defence of Chapultepec, -fought splendidly, and many of them were killed in the battle. A few -years ago a monument commemorating their gallantry was erected in the -garden on the side of the hill, and it should be visited in honor of the -brave youths who fell here. - -"And this brings us to the incidents of the capture of Chapultepec. - -"'Do you see that large building back of the grove?' said our guide, -pointing his finger in an easterly direction. - -"We followed the direction with our eyes, and indicated that we saw it. - -[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF MEXICO, FROM THE AMERICAN OFFICIAL MAP.] - -"'Well,' said he, 'that is Molino del Rey, the King's Mill, and there's -where some of the hard fighting took place. Just beyond it is the Casa -Mata, and over there, and there, are the fields of Contreras and -Churubusco. From this point you can take in the whole range of General -Scott's battles in the valley that resulted in the fall of the city of -Mexico.' - -"We studied the situations, and since then we've read up the history of -the battles, and will try to tell you something of them." - -Frank and Fred kept their promise, and wrote an account which we are -permitted to give in their words: - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE FORT OF SAN JUAN DE ULLOA FROM VERA CRUZ.] - -"It will be remembered that before the battle of Buena Vista a part of -General Taylor's army was sent to join General Scott in his advance upon -the capital of the republic. General Scott proceeded to besiege Vera -Cruz and the Castle of San Juan de Ulloa, which protects it. The -fortress is a strong one, and the Mexicans were so confident of the -abilities of Vera Cruz to hold out against any force the Americans could -send against it that they left a garrison of only 5000 men, did not -provision the city against a siege, and neglected to send away the women -and children. The Americans besieged the city on the land side, the -whole army landing without accident or opposition. The siege began on -the 9th of March, 1847, and on the 26th of the same month the city and -castle surrendered. - -[Illustration: BATTLE OF CERRO GORDO.] - -"Then began the march towards the capital as soon as the provision -trains could be made ready. The Mexicans made no opposition until the -Americans reached the foot of the mountains, where the battle of Cerro -Gordo was fought on the 18th of April, the Mexicans being commanded by -General Santa Anna, and the Americans by General Twiggs. The Mexicans -were defeated with a loss of 1000 killed and wounded and 3000 prisoners, -including five generals and many other officers. General Santa Anna fled -from the battle-field on a baggage mule, and the Mexicans were very much -demoralized. - -[Illustration: GENERAL SANTA ANNA.] - -"Perote and Puebla were occupied soon after the victory of Cerro Gordo, -and then the army halted in its advance to wait for reinforcements which -were on their way from the United States. It was not until the beginning -of August that General Scott was ready to move towards the capital, and -when he gave the order it was with only 10,738 men to follow him. -Colonel Childs, with 1400 men, was left at Puebla, which was a very -important point on the road by which supplies were to be forwarded. - -"Three days the army struggled up the eastern slope of the mountains -that surround the valley. When they looked down on the beautiful valley, -with its lakes glistening in the sun, the towers of the city rising in -the centre of the level expanse, the black fields of lava, the hills -rising here and there, the green expanse of cultivated land, and the -causeways covered with people, the soldiers gave a loud cheer, and in -spite of the fatigue of the ascent were ready to dash forward to battle. - -"To oppose them General Santa Anna had assembled an army of three times -their number, and erected forts to guard every approach to the city. -After carefully surveying the ground, General Scott decided to advance -to the south of the lakes. If he had continued on by the National Road, -which leads from Mexico to Vera Cruz, he would have encountered the -fortress of El Peñon, on which fifty-one guns had been mounted. The -engineers said he would lose one-third his army in capturing the fort, -and hence his decision to go to the south of the lakes. - -"General Worth's division advanced to San Augustin, nine miles from the -city, where there is a large field of lava known as the Pedregal, which -artillery or cavalry could not cross. The Mexicans had intrenched camps -at Contreras and also at San Antonio, and General Scott decided to -attack both these points at once. Generals Twiggs and Pillow were to -advance upon Contreras while General Worth moved towards San Antonio. - -"During the night of the 19th of August it rained, and the men camped -without fires. Early in the morning of the 20th the order to march was -given. The Mexicans were taken a good deal by surprise. Contreras was -won by a sharp fight that did not last long, and the invaders pushed on -to San Angel, which was evacuated as they approached. Some of the -cannon taken by the Americans were those which were lost at Buena Vista, -and the men who lost them were the very ones who had the good-fortune to -make the capture. - -[Illustration: BATTLE OF CHURUBUSCO.--CHARGE OF "THE PALMETTOS."] - -"San Antonio was abandoned before the Americans reached it, but a stand -was made at Churubusco, farther on; this was attacked in front and rear -at the same time. Santa Anna considered it the key of the Mexican -position, and the place was defended by 30,000 men. They made a good -defence, and at one time it looked as though the assailants would be -repulsed. Some of the most gallant fighting of the day was performed by -a South Carolina regiment ('The Palmettos') in a charge upon a Mexican -force largely their superior in numbers and backed by a battery of -artillery. - -"Churubusco and Contreras had fallen, and it would have been easy for -the Americans to advance and take possession of the city before the -Mexicans had recovered from their panic. Under injudicious advice, -General Scott offered an armistice, to enable negotiations for peace to -be made; it was promptly accepted and lasted a fortnight, but resulted -in nothing. When Santa Anna felt that he had repaired his damages, he -sent an insulting message to General Scott, and hostilities were -resumed. - -[Illustration: STORMING OF MOLINO DEL REY.] - -"Very early on the morning of September 8th the advance began, the -troops moving in the direction of the Casa Mata and the Molino del Rey. -The Molino was attacked by the artillery and afterwards by the infantry. -At one time the Americans recoiled under the shower of bullets and their -heavy loss in men and officers, but it was only for a moment. The Molino -was carried, the Mexican cavalry behind it was put to flight, and the -road was clear to Chapultepec, the home of the Montezumas and the -viceroys. For four days the army rested, and on the 12th the order to -advance was given. - -[Illustration: GENERAL SCOTT'S ENTRANCE INTO MEXICO.] - -"The cannonade against Chapultepec began at daybreak on the morning of -the 13th, and at eight o'clock General Quitman advanced along the Tacuba -road, and General Pillow from the Molino del Rey. The Mexicans fought -stubbornly, but the Americans pressed on, and while the garrison was -occupied in one direction an attack was made in another, and the -position was taken. When the Mexicans fell back to the city, General -Scott ordered the pursuit to be continued on both the roads leading from -Chapultepec to the city gates of Belem and San Cosme. Away went the -pursuers; and here, as stated elsewhere, they found great advantage -from the aqueducts. Springing from one archway to another, they managed -to dodge the Mexican bullets and get close to the gates. There they -adopted the plan of boring through the houses, as they had done at -Monterey, and in this manner by sunset they were practically, though not -literally, in possession. - -[Illustration: CAPTURED AT CHAPULTEPEC.] - -"This was the end of the fighting. At midnight a party of Mexican -officers came out with a flag of truce and proposed the surrender of the -city, and at the same time the remnant of the Mexican army marched out -of the northern gate and fled to Guadalupe Hidalgo. On the morning of -September 14th General Scott entered the city, and, surrounded by his -staff and principal officers, rode in triumph to the Grand Plaza through -the crowd of men that thronged the streets and scowled as they clutched -their knives and muttered threats against '_Los Yanqueis!_' He was -followed by six thousand men of his army; their uniforms were ragged and -soiled with mud, but their weapons were in ready condition for service, -which happily was no longer needed. - -"Negotiations for peace were begun immediately, and on February 2, 1848, -the treaty was signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo. It was ratified in the -following May, and as soon as it could be done conveniently, Mexico was -evacuated by the American troops, and the two nations became friends -again. And we shall all hope that the friendship will never be broken. - -"Commenting on the war with Mexico, General Grant said: 'For myself, I -was bitterly opposed to the measure [the annexation of Texas], and to -this day regard the war which resulted as one of the most unjust ever -waged by a stronger upon a weaker nation. It was an instance of a -republic following the bad example of European monarchies, in not -considering justice in their desire to acquire additional territory.'" - -[Illustration: A SCENE OF PEACE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE.--A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF -MEXICO.--DEPARTURE OF CORTEZ FROM CUBA.--HE LANDS IN YUCATAN.--FOUNDING -THE CITY OF VERA CRUZ.--DEFEATING THE TLASCALANS.--ENTRANCE TO -TENOCHTITLAN.--RECEPTION BY MONTEZUMA.--RETURN TO THE COAST.--EXPULSION -OF THE SPANIARDS.--BESIEGING THE CITY WITH THE AID OF THE -TLASCALANS.--CAPTURE OF THE CITY, AND DEATH OF GUATEMOZIN.--BEGINNING OF -THE RULE OF THE VICEROYS.--THE CHURCH OF GUADALUPE.--STORY OF THE -MIRACULOUS APPARITION.--RELIGIOUS AND POLITICAL HOLIDAY.--PILGRIMAGE TO -GUADALUPE.--_PENITENTES_; THEIR SELF-INFLICTED TORTURES. - - -[Illustration: THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE.] - -The tree of Montezuma and the traditions connected with it called the -attention of the youths to another famous tree of Mexico. It was the -_Arbol de la Noche Triste_, or tree of the mournful night. - -When it was mentioned to Doctor Bronson the latter said: - -"Before we go there I wish you to inform yourselves about the tree, so -that we can talk intelligently concerning its historical associations." - -Frank and Fred promised to comply with his request; and in their case a -promise was equivalent to its performance. - -A day was set for the excursion to Popotlan, where the tree stands. On -the morning of that day Frank said they were ready with their story; it -was presented to the Doctor at the breakfast-table, and pronounced -satisfactory. Here it is as it was read by Fred: - -[Illustration: DEPARTURE OF CORTEZ FROM CUBA.] - -"Those who have studied history carefully know that Cortez sailed from -Cuba to make the conquest of Mexico. He had a fleet of eleven vessels; -the largest of them was of one hundred tons, three were of seventy tons -each, and the rest were open barks. His whole force consisted of one -hundred and ten seamen, five hundred and fifty-three soldiers, two -hundred Indians, and a few Indian women for servants. His regular -soldiers consisted of sixteen horsemen, thirty musketeers, and -thirty-two cross-bowmen; all the rest of the soldiers were armed with -swords and spears. In addition to these he had fourteen pieces of -artillery, with an abundance of ammunition; and he had sixteen horses, -which were the first ever seen in America. This was the force with which -he started for the conquest of a people numbering millions, and ruled -by a king, with a large army equipped with spears and bows and arrows, -and protected by coats of mail of thick wadding. - -[Illustration: THE FIRST MASS IN THE TEMPLES OF YUCATAN.] - -"He landed first on Cozumel Island, near the coast of Yucatan, where he -proceeded to convert the natives to Christianity. He did it in a very -summary way: by calling on the natives to destroy their idols and -embrace the new religion. When they declined to do so, he set his -soldiers to breaking and overturning the idols and throwing them out of -the temples. Then he erected an altar, reared a cross and an image of -the Virgin, and ordered one of the priests who accompanied him to -celebrate mass, which was done in the presence of his kneeling -followers. - -[Illustration: BATTLE WITH THE INDIANS.] - -"From Yucatan he sailed for the coast of Mexico, which he reached at the -mouth of the Tabasco River. Here he landed, and after a fight with the -Indians, which was won chiefly by the terror inspired by his horses and -the sound of the guns, which the natives took for thunder, he occupied -Tabasco. Shortly afterwards he had another battle with a force which his -historians estimated at 40,000. This army he defeated, and he celebrated -mass on the battle-field in thanks for his triumph over the heathen. - -"'Then,' writes Diaz, 'after dressing our wounds with the fat of the -Indians whom we found dead, and having placed good guards round our -post, we ate our supper and went to our repose.' - -"Peace was arranged with the Indians on condition that they should -submit to the authority of Cortez, and accept the religion he brought -them. They had no alternative, and immediately became Christians. When -this was accomplished he continued along the coast of Mexico, and laid -the foundations of Vera Cruz. There he first heard of the Emperor -Montezuma, and the story of his great wealth determined Cortez to make -the conquest of Mexico." - -"That was where he burned his ships," remarked Frank, as Fred paused for -a moment. - -"Yes," answered Fred, "he burned his ships partly in order to make -retreat impossible, and partly that he might increase his force with the -110 seamen. He left a small garrison at Vera Cruz, and then advanced -towards the city. Taking part with the tribes who had been annoyed by -the tax-collectors of Montezuma, he secured their friendship. He -conquered the Tlascalans in four severe battles, and then induced them -to join him in a march upon Montezuma's capital, as they were not on -good terms with the Aztecs; but he could not prevail upon them to -renounce their religion and adopt Christianity. - -[Illustration: FIRST VIEW OF THE MEXICAN CAPITAL.] - -"He reached Tenochtitlan, Montezuma's capital, in November, 1518, with -6000 Indian allies, in addition to his force of Spaniards. Ambassadors -from Montezuma met him on the road, and he was welcomed with great -courtesy and ceremony. A palace was assigned to him, and he immediately -fortified it. While he was laying his plans for taking possession of the -country and its immense store of gold, he learned that his garrison at -Vera Cruz had been attacked and one of his soldiers killed; and not only -was the soldier killed, but his head was sent to Montezuma. - -"The death of one soldier may not be thought a very serious matter," -Fred remarked, by way of explanation, "but it was so for Cortez. Down to -that time the Mexicans supposed the Spaniards were supernatural beings; -they were the children of the sun, and therefore immortal, but the -receipt of the head of the slain soldier undeceived them. - -[Illustration: THE MEETING OF CORTEZ AND MONTEZUMA.] - -"He at once took Montezuma prisoner, and having captured the men who -attacked Vera Cruz, he burned them alive in the public square in front -of the palace. Montezuma took the oath of allegiance to the King of -Spain, and was set at liberty after paying an enormous amount of gold -and precious stones by way of ransom. - -"Just as Cortez thought everything was quiet he learned that the -Governor of Cuba had sent an army under Narvaez to deprive him of the -command of the country. As the army was much larger than his own, the -situation was desperate; but Cortez was equal to it. - -"He left 200 men in the city under charge of one of his officers, and -then hastened to the coast, where he defeated and killed Narvaez, and -added his men to his own forces. Thus the army of 900 men, with eighty -horses and twelve pieces of artillery, that had been sent to conquer -Cortez became really his reinforcement. He returned with them to Mexico, -where, meantime, the people had risen against the Spaniards, killed -Montezuma, and under their new emperor, Cuitlahua, driven the invaders -out of the city. If you want a brilliant account of the evacuation of -the city, you will find it in Prescott's History; it is too long to be -given here. - -"There is a reminiscence of the terrible retreat," continued Fred, -"which is shown to every visitor to the city. It is the Salto de -Alvarado, or Alvarado's Leap, in the street which bears the name of that -warrior. They tell us that where the line of house-fronts is broken, and -shut off by an iron railing, was formerly a canal in the ancient city of -Tenochtitlan. This is said to be the exact spot where Alvarado leaped -across the canal, and saved himself from the death which overtook so -many of his comrades. He commanded the rear-guard, and was one of the -few who escaped. Bernal Diaz says the opening was so wide, and the sides -so high, that no man in the world could have jumped across, no matter -how strong might be his limbs." - -"Now we are coming to the Noche Triste tree," remarked Frank. - -"Yes," answered Fred. "Cortez is said to have sat all night under this -tree at the time of the evacuation, lamenting over his misfortunes and -laying plans for the future. - -"Do you think it is really so?" Fred asked, turning to Doctor Bronson. - -"The legend is a romantic one," the Doctor replied, "and I would not -care to disturb it; but if I read the character of Cortez correctly, he -was not the man to sit down and mourn under any circumstances. Quite -likely he stopped under the tree on that eventful night of July 1, 1520; -but it is more probable that he was planning what to do next instead of -wasting his time in vain lamentations. It is time to go now," said he, -glancing at his watch, "and we'll have the rest of the story at the foot -of the famous tree." - -Fred folded his manuscript and consigned it to his pocket, and then the -trio, accompanied by their guide, proceeded to Popotla by the railway. -Taking a car at the west side of the Plaza Mayor, they reached Popotla -in little more than half an hour from the time of their departure. They -passed through Tacuba, which was anciently an important town, but is now -a suburb of the great city, with a population of between two and three -thousand. - -The tree is a species of cedar, called _Ahuehuete_ by the Indians, and -_Sabino_ by the Spaniards. Down to a few years ago it was in fine -condition, but one night a fire was kindled against it and seriously -injured its trunk. Several of its limbs have since died and been -removed; and to prevent its utter destruction by relic-hunters, the tree -has been surrounded by an iron railing, and is carefully watched by a -policeman. Visitors may pick up any twigs lying outside the railing, but -they are forbidden to tear anything from the tree, however -insignificant. - -After inspecting the tree, and commenting upon the fact that it was -certainly old enough for Cortez to have sat a whole night beneath it and -indulged in any amount of lamentation, our friends resumed the story of -the Conquest. - -"During the retreat," continued Fred, "the rear-guard of the Spaniards -was destroyed; the retreat lasted for six days, and then a battle was -fought, on the 7th of July, 1520, on the plains of Otumba. Here Cortez -was victorious, but he was not strong enough to attempt to retake the -city. - -"He went to Tlascala, where he assembled a large force of natives, and -again marched upon the capital. Meantime the Mexicans prepared for -defence, and the Emperor having died of small-pox, which the Spaniards -introduced, the throne was taken by Guatemozin, the son-in-law of -Montezuma. Guatemozin assembled a large army and fortified the -causeways, so that he believed the place impregnable; but he was not -equal to the warlike skill of the Spanish commander. - -[Illustration: THE BATTLE UPON THE CAUSEWAY.] - -"Cortez had again been 'reinforced' by the Governor of Cuba; the latter -had sent two ships to the aid of Narvaez, of whose fate he was ignorant, -and when these ships arrived at Vera Cruz they were seized, and the men -of the expedition were easily induced to join Cortez. - -"Approach by land being so well guarded, Cortez decided to attack the -city by water. Timber for thirteen brigantines was prepared on the other -side of the mountains, and carried on the shoulders of 8000 Tlascalans -to the bank of a small stream flowing into one of the lakes. There the -boats were put together, and though the Mexicans made many attacks, they -were always defeated. - -"Each boat carried a piece of artillery and twenty-five Spaniards, and -the fleet was sufficient to wipe the war-canoes of the Mexicans out of -existence. When all was ready the fleet moved to the attack, and at the -same time the land forces proceeded against the city along three of the -causeways. - -[Illustration: THE CAPTURE OF GUATEMOZIN.] - -"Altogether the siege of the city lasted seventy-seven days; it ended on -the 13th of August, 1521, and that day may be taken as the commencement -of the reign of the Spaniards in Mexico. Guatemozin attempted to escape -in a boat, but was captured and treated as a prisoner of distinction. -The Mexicans again endeavored to drive out their invaders, but were -unsuccessful, and Guatemozin was put to death under circumstances of -great cruelty. He was burned on a bed of coals by order of Cortez, along -with several of his nobles and leading men. - -"And this ends our story of the conquest of Mexico," said Fred. "Those -who think it dry reading are at liberty to skip, but if they have read -thus far there will be no need of doing so." - -"What became of Cortez after the Conquest?" Doctor Bronson asked. - -"He was rewarded by the King with the appointment of Governor and -Captain-general of Mexico, and a marquisate with a large revenue. But -his success aroused jealousy, as it generally does, and while he was -busy with the conquest of the outlying provinces of Mexico his property -was seized, and his retainers were imprisoned. He returned to Spain in -consequence of this, was received with distinction, and returned to -Mexico for new enterprises, but he found himself under the orders of a -viceroy, who had been sent to rule over him. - -"He went back to Spain once more, where, with great difficulty, he -obtained an audience with the King, and was very coldly received. He -soon dropped out of sight, and the closing years of his life were passed -in utter obscurity in Seville." - -"Very much like the closing years of the life of Columbus," Frank -remarked. - -[Illustration: PONCE DE LEON.] - -"Yes," added the Doctor, "and you may continue the parallel further -among American discoverers and conquerors. Americus Vespucius, or -Amerigo Vespucci, died in poverty; Balboa and Sir Walter Raleigh were -beheaded; Pizarro was assassinated; Magellan was killed in battle; and -De Soto never lived to know the value of his discovery of the -Mississippi. Hendrick Hudson was forced into an open boat at sea by a -band of mutineers, and never heard of afterwards; and Captain John Smith -died in retirement after having passed some time in a French prison. -Ponce de Leon, who went to Florida to find the fabled fountain of youth, -was mortally wounded in a fight with the natives of that country, and -his followers were forced into a disastrous retreat." - -Absorbed with the train of thought aroused by Doctor Bronson's remark, -the youths silently accompanied that gentleman on the return trip to the -city. Frank concluded that he would never lead an expedition for the -discovery of a new world, and Fred decided that he did not care to make -a name in history by the conquest of a country that had done him no -harm. - -[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF GUADALUPE.] - -In the afternoon they went to the hill which is notable for the church -bearing the name of "Our Lady of Guadalupe." It is about three miles -from the city, and in a direction opposite to that of Chapultepec. The -present road is comparatively modern, the old one having been given up -to the line of railway from the capital to Vera Cruz. The new road and -the old one are parallel; the former has fourteen shrines along the -way-side, where pilgrims to the church used to pause to say their -prayers, but the new one is not so well provided. The tram-cars run at -a rapid rate, the mules often dashing into a gallop, but coming suddenly -to a halt when the conductor blows his horn. - -The youths inquired as to the origin of the church, which is the most -famous of all the places of worship in the country, and the object of -many a pilgrimage every year. The result of their inquiries was the -following story: - -"The Church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe stands on the spot where the -Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a poor shepherd, an Indian named -Juan Diego, in 1531, ten years after the capture of the city of -Tenochtitlan by Cortez. He lived in a mud hut near the base of the hill, -and one day, his father being ill, he went to obtain medicine for him, -and was stopped by the Virgin, who upbraided him for the slowness of the -Mexicans in accepting the religion which the conquerors offered them. -She announced that she was to be the patron saint of the Indians, and -told him to go and tell the bishop what he had seen and heard. - -"He went to the house of Zumarraga, who was then Bishop of Mexico, but -was turned away unbelieved and almost unheard. The Virgin appeared to -him again, and told him to gather some roses from the top of the rock -and carry them in his blanket to the bishop. He did so, and when the -blanket was opened the picture of Mary was found to be painted upon it, -and surrounded by the imprint of the roses. The bishop was incredulous -at first, but when he reflected that the Indian could not paint, and was -too poor to employ an artist, he accepted the miracle, and it was soon -after adopted by the nation. - -"It was not easy to identify the spot, and so the Virgin appeared again -and stamped her foot upon the ground. Immediately there burst forth a -spring which is said to possess wonderful healing properties, and it has -continued to flow ever since. A small chapel was immediately erected, -and soon afterwards the foundations of the church were laid. Pope -Clement VII. officially proclaimed Our Lady of Guadalupe to be the -patron saint of Mexico, and the adoration of the picture spread -throughout the whole of America and also to Catholic Europe. - -"At one time," said Frank, in his account of the visit, "the church of -Guadalupe was one of the richest in Mexico, second only to the great -cathedral; but the greater part of its treasure was taken by the Liberal -Government, and coined into money, at the time of the confiscation of -Church property. The golden frame of the picture of the Virgin was -carried away, but afterwards returned. The altar railing, of solid -silver, was not disturbed. Its value must be very great, as it is -massive, and the metal is said to be of the highest standard. - -[Illustration: STATUETTE OF THE VIRGIN MARY.] - -"The original painting is kept in an iron frame above the high altar, -and is shown only on rare occasions. By paying a fee to the sacristan we -obtained a view of it. The material on which the painting appears is of -a very coarse fabric, but the picture is distinct, and its colors seem -to be admirably preserved. Copies of the picture are to be seen -everywhere. Hardly a house in the country is without one of them, and -they are for sale in all shapes and kinds to suit the most economical -purse. Peddlers offer them to you on the streets, and no pious Mexican -would be without at least one image of the patron saint of his country. - -[Illustration: MAKING A PILGRIMAGE COMFORTABLY.] - -"Pilgrimage to this place is constantly going on, but the great and -especial day of the year is the 12th of December, the anniversary of the -miraculous appearance. On that day thousands of pilgrims are here from -all parts of Mexico and Central America, and at the conclusion of the -ceremonies there is an exhibition of fireworks in front of the church. -After this display the natives perform the _mitate_, one of their -ancient dances, in one of the halls attached to the church. The high -dignitaries of the church are present at the fireworks and also at the -dance. According to what we learned of it, the mitate has a resemblance -to some of the dances in the Hindoo temples of India. We are told that -the priests facilitated the adoption of the Catholic religion by -permitting the natives to retain some of their heathen customs, and the -mitate is one of them. - -"In the War for Independence the picture of Our Lady of Guadalupe was -borne on the banners of the insurgents, and their rallying cry was -'Guadalupe.' The priest Hidalgo, who originated the insurrection, was so -identified with the shrine and its use during the war that his name was -incorporated with it and given to the town which surrounds the church. -After the independence of the country was secured it was decreed that -December 12th should be kept as a national holiday, and consequently the -date is political as well as religious. The treaty of peace between the -United States and Mexico was signed here on February 2, 1848, and is -consequently known in history as the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo." - -This is the church to which the Emperor Maximilian walked with bare feet -from the city, three miles away. He established a title and decoration -of the Order of Guadalupe, and during his brief reign it was conferred -upon distinguished and other persons who had rendered, or might render, -services to the empire or its ruler. - -The mention of the devotional act of Maximilian in walking barefooted to -the church of Guadalupe reminded one of the youths of an account he had -read not long before of the way in which many of the pilgrims to the -shrine were accustomed to inflict self-torture in days gone by. They -lashed themselves and one another with whips, gashed their flesh with -knives, and in other ways personally injured themselves. Of late years -the practice has fallen into disuse, but occasionally a _Penitente_, as -he is called, may be seen punishing himself for some real or fancied -sin. - -[Illustration: THE PENITENTES WALKING ON CACTUS-LEAVES.] - -Doctor Bronson told the youths that in some parts of the country a -favorite act of the Penitentes is to walk over cactus-leaves, or to -crawl upon them on their bare knees. A cross is set up, in the yard of a -church and the ground in front of it is strewn with the thorny cactus. -On this dreadful pavement the Penitentes walk to the foot of the cross, -and believe that when they have accomplished the journey they have -expiated all the sins committed by them since the last ceremony of the -same kind was held. The Doctor said the priests had tried to abolish -this practice, which was established by the old Franciscan missionaries -about 200 years ago, but it has so strong a hold upon the Indians that -they refuse to give it up. - -When the missionaries established the Order of Penitentes, their -principal dogma was that no sin could be forgiven without confession -and expiation. The society increased in numbers, and at length became -practically independent of the Church; it adopted several dogmas of its -own, one of them being the converse of the original, and to the effect -that no sin could be so great that it could not be washed away by -expiation. This new dogma gave the priests much trouble, especially -among the natives of New Mexico and the neighboring provinces of the -republic. - -[Illustration: SAN FRANCISCAN MISSION.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -AREA AND INHABITANTS OF MEXICO.--CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION.--INDIANS, -EUROPEANS, AND MESTIZOS; THEIR RESPECTIVE NUMBERS AND -CHARACTERISTICS.--INCLINATIONS OF THE MIXED RACES.--TENDENCIES OF -EDUCATED INDIANS.--PRESIDENT JUAREZ AS AN EXAMPLE.--HOW THE INDIANS -LIVE.--HOW THE SPANIARDS TOOK POSSESSION OF THE LAND.--CREOLES AND THEIR -ORIGIN.--THE MESTIZOS.--LEPEROS AND THEIR CHARACTER.--ADROIT -THIEVES.--PAWNING A CHURCH ORGAN.--THE LEPEROS AND THE BRIGANDS.--CHURCH -OF SAN DOMINGO.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE INQUISITION IN MEXICO.--THE -_AUTO-DA-FÉ_. - - -On the day following the visit to the church of Guadalupe Doctor Bronson -was occupied with some business matters that rendered his movements -somewhat uncertain. Frank and Fred thought it a good opportunity to make -some statistical notes about Mexico which they had been for some time -contemplating, but had postponed in consequence of there being no hurry -about the matter. The figures were at hand whenever they chose to use -them, and so they had no anxiety on the subject. - -[Illustration: INDIAN OF NORTHERN MEXICO.] - -"First," said Fred, "we will see the extent of the country, learn how -large the population is, and of what it is composed." - -"Very well," was Frank's reply; "you may put down the figures and other -memoranda as I read them off." - -The youths settled down to their work, Fred at table with note-book and -pencil, and Frank with an array of books before him. For an hour or two -their heads were, as Dr. Holmes says, "ant-hills of units and tens," as -we shall see from the following, which they have permitted us to copy: - -"Mexico lies between the 15th and 33d parallels of latitude, and the -86th and 117th meridians of longitude. Its greatest length is only a -trifle less than 2000 miles, and its greatest width 750 miles. At the -Isthmus of Tehuantepec it narrows to 140 miles; and this is the place -where Captain Eads proposed to make a railway for transporting ships -from one ocean to the other. We'll have something to say about this -proposition in another place. - -"We cannot find that there has ever been an exact survey of the country -or a careful census of the inhabitants. No two authorities agree -concerning the area and population; but an average of the best of them -shows that the country measures about 800,000 square miles, and has -10,500,000 inhabitants. It is divided into twenty-seven States, one -Territory, and one federal district; the federal district includes the -capital city, and may be regarded as the equivalent of the District of -Columbia in the United States, though it is much larger in area. - -[Illustration: A MESTIZO WOMAN.] - -"One-half the population consists of mestizos, or 'mixed people;' -one-sixth are Europeans or their creole descendants; and one-third and -more are of pure Indian blood. The following figures are from the last -census: - - Indians 3,200,000 - Europeans and their descendants 1,500,000 - Mestizos--mixed races 5,800,000 - ---------- - Total 10,500,000 - -"Señor Garcia Cubas, a Mexican gentleman who has written a statistical -work about Mexico, published at the office of the Minister of Public -Works, says of the different races of people in the country: 'The -difference of dress, customs, and language shows the heterogeneous -character of the population.... The habits and customs of the people -that make up the creole portion of the population are essentially -European, and conform particularly to the fashions of the French, with -some features borrowed from the Spanish. Their national language is -Spanish; French is considerably used; and English, German, and Italian -are receiving increased attention. The nearest descendants of the -Spanish, and those less mixed up with the natives of Mexico, belong by -their complexion to the white race. The natural inclination of the mixed -races to the habits and customs of the whites and creoles, as well as -their estrangement from those of the natives, is the reason that many of -them figure in the most important associations of the country, by their -learning and intelligence, including in this number the worthy members -of the middle classes. From this powerful coalition the force of an -energetic development naturally results, which is inimical to the Indian -race. Many of the natives themselves contribute to this fatal -consequence, as they have joined the body I have referred to, and -founded new families with the habits and customs of the upper classes.'" - -"President Juarez may be cited as an example of the pure Indian of -Mexico," Fred remarked, "who leaves behind him the traditions and -customs of his race, and adopts those of the enlightened classes." - -"I presume so," replied Frank, "and every Indian who has adopted the -dress and ways of the European, and identified himself with the -nineteenth century habits of thought, is helping to assimilate the -aboriginal race with the new one. In this way the population will in -time become essentially European, but it will take hundreds of years to -bring about such a state of things. Railways, commerce, education, and -liberal ideas will accomplish it; and the Mexico of the twentieth -century promises to be a great improvement upon that of the eighteenth. -There is now no political distinction on account of race, and the social -one cannot last much longer." - -Having given utterance to this sage remark, Frank blushed at his -audacity in hazarding a prophecy, and referred again to the books before -him. - -"Wouldn't it be well," said Fred, "to say something about the natives, -and compare them with the Indians of the Western States and Territories -of our own country?" - -"It certainly would," responded Frank, "and so here goes: - -[Illustration: INDIAN GIRL SPINNING COTTON.] - -"The Mexican Indian is not much unlike the American one in general -appearance, as he is of a brown or olive color, and has little or no -beard. His cheek-bones are high, and he has slender limbs and a broad -chest. Owing to his having been so long accustomed to carrying burdens -on his back, he is inclined to stoop, while the American Indian stands -erect. The Mexican Indian is also liable to stoutness, while the -American one is not. His dress is pretty much the same in all parts of -the country, varied, of course, by the conditions of the climate. Short -and wide trousers of coarse cotton cloth, a loose jacket of the same -material, a serape or blanket for cool weather or at night, a straw -hat, and a pair of sandals form his costume. The different tribes are -distinguished by the colors of the clothing, but this distinction is -slowly being effaced." - -"Now a few words about the creoles," suggested Fred. - -[Illustration: PEDDLER OF WOODEN TRAYS.] - -"But I have not done with the Indians yet," replied Frank, "as this is a -good place to say something about their houses. We have mentioned them -in another place, but I want to add that in the hot country the Indian -dwelling is made of wood, thatched with palm or banana leaves, while in -the uplands it is of adobe, with a flat roof covered with clay supported -by beams and stamped or beaten hard. A fire is generally kept burning -day and night, and near it are the cooking utensils, which cost -altogether only a few dollars at most. The hut has no furniture except a -few stools and some mats of cane or rushes, which serve as beds at night -and seats by day. A whole family lives in a space which we should -consider small for one person and altogether too restricted for two. - -"When the Spaniards conquered the country they took possession of the -lands and everything else; they allowed the Indians only sufficient -space for their villages, and a plot of ground 3600 feet square for -agricultural purposes, which all the inhabitants of a village were to -cultivate in common. They still have this common garden, but the -majority of them abandon their rights in it, and earn their living by -hiring out with land-owners or miners. In former times a Spaniard spoke -of himself as _gente de razon_, or man of intelligence, while he -designated the Indian as _gente sin razon_, a man of no understanding. -The Indians accepted this distinction, and often speak of themselves in -this way. Of course this is not the case with the superior ones, who -have adopted the European ways of living. - -[Illustration: CHARCOAL VENDER.] - -"Now I come to the creoles," said Frank, "who are either Europeans or -people of European parentage. They were formerly the ruling class of -Mexico in every sense of the expression, but since the Revolution and -the Laws of the Reform their position is changed, as they are compelled -to recognize the equality of the educated Indian, which in olden times -they absolutely refused to do. When Juarez, who, as already stated, was -an Indian of pure blood, became President it was a great shock to the -sensibilities of many of the old aristocrats, but they survived it -because they were compelled to do so. The hostility has generally died -out, but a good deal of it lingers and will remain for many -generations." - -[Illustration: OF THE OLD ARISTOCRACY.] - -"I am reminded," said Fred, "of a transaction which is attributed to the -Pilgrim Fathers of New England when they landed at what is now -Plymouth." - -"What is that?" - -"They are said to have held a meeting, and passed the following preamble -and resolution: - -"'_Whereas_, it has been decreed that the saints shall inherit the -earth; - -"'It is therefore _Resolved_, that we are the saints.'" - -"The Spanish conquerors of Mexico evidently did not think it worth -while to pass any resolutions or hold any meetings," answered Frank, -with a laugh. "They went ahead and inherited the earth without bothering -themselves about formalities. The Indians were considered to have no -rights that the white men were required to respect, and were made to -understand that it was owing to the great mercy and tenderness of the -Spaniards that the natives were not slaughtered down to the last of the -race. And there is little doubt that they would have been slaughtered -had they not been needed for menial work and to make life easy for the -newcomers. - -[Illustration: A CREOLE RESIDENCE.] - -"As before stated, the creoles have the manners, customs, and dress of -Spain to a large extent, though they follow the fashions of France in -several particulars. The account of a Mexican courtship shows how the -women are secluded, as in Spain. The men have the Spanish taste for -gaming, bull-fights, and gallantry, and they have lost little of the -polite forms for which Andalusia is famous. Where their means permit -they are princely in their hospitality, and no grandee of Castile could -stab his intimate friend with a stiletto more gracefully than can the -Mexican creole in case of a misunderstanding. That the creole women are -pretty and possessed of most fascinating manners is the testimony of all -who have seen them. - -"In regard to the mestizos," said Frank, "I will quote a few words from -'Mexico and the Mexicans,' and let you write them down." - -Fred assented, whereupon Frank slowly read out the following: - -"The noblest of the Aztecs fell in battle with the Spaniards. Their -property fell into the hands of the victors, who at the same time became -possessed of the families of those who had fallen. The rude warriors -married the dusky daughters, who became their equals by baptism. It was -not considered a _mésalliance_ to marry a noble Aztec girl. The sons of -Montezuma, who were educated in Spain, received the title of count. The -Indian aristocracy adopted Christianity, and became amalgamated with the -new population. - -[Illustration: GROUP OF MEXICAN HORSEMEN.] - -"The mestizo is thus the child of a white father and an Indian mother. -He is a magnificent horseman; one might take him for an Arab as, lance -in hand, he rushes past upon his light steed. In the warmer regions he -wears, on Sundays, a carefully plaited white shirt, wide trousers of -white or colored drilling, fastened round the hips by a gay girdle, -brown leather gaiters, and broad felt hat, with silver cord or fur band -around it. The mestizos include the great majority of the _rancheros_, -or farmers, and the _arrieros_, or mule-drivers; many of them are -educated, and take a leading part in law, politics, and medicine, where -they often attain high rank. They are excellent soldiers, especially on -horseback, and it is this class of Mexicans that have given the Mexican -cavalry its high reputation." - -"How about the leperos?" queried Fred. "Don't they belong among the -mestizos?" - -"Yes," was the reply, "that is what the books I am looking at say of -them. They come from the union of the worst of the two races, and are -said to possess the vices of both with the good qualities of neither. -They are the class from which the thieves and beggars of Mexico are -recruited. One writer says, 'A lepero is a thief from infancy, and is -able to steal as soon as he leaves his mother's arms.' The Chief of -Police says that nine out of ten of the men and boys selling lottery -tickets or newspapers on the streets are thieves and pickpockets, and -their legitimate business is simply a cloak for the illegal one. - -"Another authority says that on the line of the Mexican Railway from -Vera Cruz to the capital nothing that two men can lift is left -out-of-doors after dark. All car-couplings must be carried into the -stations; and the rascals used to steal the spikes that held the rails -to the ties until the company adopted the plan of riveting them to the -rails after they were driven into place. - -"Brantz Meyer tells about an Englishman who was walking along one of the -principal streets of Mexico, when he suddenly felt his hat rising from -his head. He looked up and saw it sailing towards the window from which -the thief had caught it by the dexterous use of a hook. - -"Another story that he tells is about a Mexican who was stopped on the -road by three others, who robbed him of his cloak. They told him to wait -where he was and he would be able to make something by doing so; out of -curiosity he waited, and in a little while an accomplice of the thieves -came and handed him a pawn ticket. He accompanied the gift with a -graceful bow, and explained that the cloak had been pawned for thirty -dollars. 'We wanted the money and not the cloak,' the thief explained, -'and as the garment is worth at least a hundred dollars, you can redeem -it and make seventy dollars by the transaction.' - -"There was once a lepero who pretended to be converted by the preaching -and teaching of a missionary, and the good man gave him employment as -janitor of the church. One day an organ was delivered at the church, and -the missionary appointed a time when it should be exhibited to his -friends. The party assembled accordingly, and the missionary was -surprised to find that the janitor was absent. He was still more -surprised when he found that the organ had followed the janitor's -example and was missing. The janitor had carried it away during the -night to a neighboring empeño, and pawned the instrument for whatever he -could obtain on it." - -[Illustration: A SOCIETY BELLE.] - -We may add to Frank's account of this gentry that the brigands were of -the lepero class, though very often they had leaders of a higher rank in -life. The Government has executed a good many of them in its efforts to -break up the system of highway robbery, and altogether the natural -instincts of the leperos have been greatly curbed in recent years. They -are almost always armed with either knife or pistol, and make ready use -of these weapons on frequent occasions. At nearly every festival or -assemblage of any kind, fights among leperos form a part of the -proceedings. It is not customary to interfere between the combatants, -the bystanders forming a circle and looking calmly on until one of them -falls. - -[Illustration: A MEXICAN GRANDEE.] - -Fred laid aside his pencil and note-book, while Frank closed the volumes -he had consulted. This done, the youths went out for a stroll, intending -to submit the result of their labors to the Doctor when next they met -him. - -[Illustration: A SERMON IN THE CHURCH.] - -Their walk took them to the Church of San Domingo, which was once a -magnificent building, but has suffered greatly in its proportions and -decorations in recent years. It was the church of the Dominican order of -priesthood, and had a large convent near it. The convent, or more -properly monastery, has been destroyed, and the church has lost some of -its parts by reason of the extension of streets which were needed for -the business of the city. - -[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAN DOMINGO.] - -Close to the church is the School of Medicine, which is partly supported -by Government and partly by fees received from the students. The -building was interesting to Frank and Fred because it was once the -tribunal of the Inquisition, which was established in Mexico in 1571, -and suppressed in 1813. Immediately after the suppression of the -Inquisition the building was converted into a prison; afterwards it was -the office of the Government lotteries, and then a barrack for soldiers. -The Mexican Congress met here for a time; and in 1854 the building was -adapted to its present use as a School of Medicine. - -One day the youths accompanied Doctor Bronson in a visit to the school, -and while he was busy with medical matters they accompanied their guide -in looking up the few traces that remain of the Inquisition. Some of the -cells where prisoners were confined were shown to them, and also the -room where they were tried. After their return from the inspection the -youths tried to obtain a full history of the Inquisition, but were -unsuccessful. Doctor Bronson told them that no satisfactory and -impartial history of it had ever been written, all the works that have -appeared on the subject being either very hostile or very friendly. - -"Briefly we may say," added the Doctor, "that the Inquisition was -formally established in the thirteenth century, and came to an end in -the first part of the nineteenth; but trials and punishment for heresy -had taken place as early as the fourth century. The Inquisition was more -powerful in Spain than in any other country of Europe; and it never had -any hold of consequence outside of Spain, Italy, and France, and the -colonies of Spain. One historian (Llorente) says that during the whole -period of the Spanish Inquisition--from 1483 to 1808--31,912 persons -were burned alive, 17,659 were burned in effigy, and 291,456 were -subjected to rigorous pains and penalties. The accuracy of his -statements is doubted, Prescott considering them greatly exaggerated and -his figures most improbable; and other writers share Prescott's opinion. - -"The decree by which the Inquisition was established in Mexico -especially exempted the Indians from its operations, and thereby secured -its popularity among them, as the public burning of Spanish and other -heretics afforded much amusement to the natives, and was a sort of -substitute for the human sacrifices of the Aztecs, which the Conquest -had abolished. The Mexican Inquisition was under the special charge of -the Dominican order, the same as in Spain, and hence was associated with -the Church of San Domingo. - -"There is," continued the Doctor, "a popular misapprehension concerning -the _auto-da-fé_, or profession of faith. It is generally believed to be -the burning of the condemned, whereas the _auto-da-fé_ was simply the -public ceremony that followed the secret trial by the Inquisition. The -members of the tribunal, and all others assembled with them, made a -public _auto-da-fé_, or profession of their faith in Christianity and -the doctrines of the Church. After this was done the list of the -condemned was read, together with the punishments accorded to them, and -then the victims were handed over to the civil authorities for -punishment. The trial and sentence were the work of the Church, but the -punishment was that of the civil power only. - -"The first _auto-da-fé_ in Mexico was in 1574, when 'twenty-one -pestilent Lutherans' were burned, and from that time on the public -burnings were frequent. How many people perished in these affairs is not -known; but it must not be understood that all the victims who suffered -were burned alive. In most instances, even where the body of the -condemned man was burned, he was killed by strangling; thus in one case -where fifteen persons perished, fourteen were first strangled, and only -one was burned alive. The penalty of death by burning was visited only -upon heretics and sorcerers. - -"And here," added the Doctor, "is a photograph of four victims of the -Inquisition, whose skeletons were found in the wall of the building -which was the seat of the tribunal in Mexico. They are supposed to have -been built into the wall at the time of its construction, but nothing is -actually known concerning them. - -[Illustration: TORTURE CHAMBER.] - -"The trials of accused persons were always held in secret; the -unfortunates were not permitted to see their accusers, or even know -their names. The punishments were death by fire or on the scaffold, -imprisonment for life or shorter terms, with or without hard labor, -forfeiture of property, civil infamy, and in mild cases public -retraction and penance. Accused persons might be tortured to make them -confess their guilt, and an accomplice might be a witness against an -accused individual." - -"What a horrible system!" exclaimed Frank. - -"Yes," replied the Doctor, "but you must remember that it was very -nearly the same form of procedure as that of the civil tribunals of the -same countries and times, and not unlike what is known in some parts of -the world at the present day. And, furthermore, remember that while the -Inquisitors of Spain and Mexico were doing the deeds which have been -proven against them, persecution was by no means unknown in England and -America. Perhaps at the very hour when a victim of the Inquisition was -being put to death in Mexico, the Christian people of Salem, -Massachusetts, were hanging somebody accused of being a witch, or the -English Puritans, under Cromwell, were putting Charles I. to death!" - -[Illustration: PRISONERS OF THE INQUISITION.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL.--"THE WHITE WOMAN."--GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF -THE VOLCANO.--FIRST ASCENT BY WHITE MEN.--AMECAMECA.--HIRING HORSES AND -BUYING PROVISIONS.--EQUIPMENT FOR THE EXCURSION.--DANGER OF -ROBBERS.--PEONS AND VOLCANEROS.--FIELDS OF BARLEY AND FORESTS OF -PINE.--AN INDIAN TRADITION.--FATE OF THE GIANT AND GIANTESS.--ICE FROM -POPOCATEPETL FOR THE CITY OF MEXICO.--SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER.--SLEEPING -AT TLAMACAS.--ARRIVAL AT LA CRUZ.--THE ASCENT ON FOOT.--DIFFICULTIES OF -CLIMBING IN THE RAREFIED AIR.--THE PICO DEL FRAILE.--CAUGHT IN A CLOUD. - - -[Illustration: A RESIDENCE IN THE FOOT-HILLS.] - -It was the most natural thing in the world that the daily view of the -snow-covered mountains, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, roused in the -youths a desire to ascend to the top of the former. Doctor Bronson was -not ambitious to undertake the expedition, but he encouraged the youths -in their desire, and arranged to accompany them as far as the foot of -the cone, where the saddle-horses are left. Frank was appointed the -historian of the affair, and performed his work in a manner that -secured the hearty commendation of the Doctor. Our readers may judge for -themselves of the young man's literary abilities; we have not changed a -line or a word of his account, which was as follows: - -"Popocatepetl means 'The Mountain that Smokes,' and Iztaccihuatl is _La -Mujer Blanca_, or 'The White Woman.' The name of the great volcano is -generally shortened to 'Popo' or 'Old Popo,' and for the sake of saving -time and space I shall follow the fashion occasionally, and not give the -name in full. - -[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF AMECAMECA.] - -"The name of 'The White Woman' comes from the resemblance of the top of -the ridge to the body of a woman lying upon a bier and covered with a -shroud. The face is quite perfect, but the rest of the figure requires -considerable aid from the imagination. Old Popo is not altogether a -smoking mountain, as there are times when no smoke comes from it, though -it constantly throws out fumes of sulphur; in one sense it may be called -an active volcano, while in another it should not be so designated. -According to the historians, it was quite lively during the first years -of the Conquest, but for a very long time it has been peaceful enough, -and only at rare intervals shows any signs of a return to business -activity. - -[Illustration: IZTACCIHUATL, THE WHITE WOMAN.] - -"Geographically it is forty-five miles from the city of Mexico in a -south-southeasterly direction; it is in latitude 19° north and longitude -98° 30' west, and according to the measurements of Humboldt and others, -it is 17,540 feet high. The latest Mexican atlas makes it 17,884 feet; -General Ochoa, the owner of the crater, says it is 19,673 feet, and -still another measurement gives the height of the summit at 21,373 feet. -You may take your choice of these figures. - -"Popocatepetl was first ascended in 1522 by Francisco Montano, who was -lowered 450 feet into one of the craters by means of ropes. He did not -succeed in reaching the summit, nor did several other explorers who made -the attempt during the time of Cortez. - -"It used to be a much more tedious journey to the summit of Popo, as it -was necessary to go on horseback about sixty miles from the city of -Mexico, and the expedition required a large outlay for horses, guides, -and escort, and consumed from ten to fifteen days. Now the railway is a -great help in the matter, and we utilized it to the utmost. Before the -railway was opened, the journey to Amecameca was made by diligence. - -"Two American gentlemen, Colonel Watson and Mr. Arms, both of New York, -were stopping at the hotel with us, and on learning that we wished to -visit Popocatepetl, they invited us to join them. Of course we accepted -at once, and Colonel Watson offered to make all the arrangements about -horses and guides. His first step was to obtain a letter of introduction -from General Ochoa, who owns the crater of the volcano and carries on an -extensive business of mining for sulphur; the letter was addressed to -his agent and major-domo at Amecameca, Don Domingo Zela, and asked him -to facilitate the movements of the party in any way in his power, and -allow us to sleep in his _rancho_ at Tlamacas. - -"Colonel Watson went to Amecameca one morning accompanied by Fred, who -was to act as interpreter, as the colonel was a little rusty in his -Spanish. Doctor Bronson, Mr. Arms, and I followed the next day, and the -colonel had everything ready for us on our arrival. We went by the -Morelos Railway, starting from the station of San Lazero at 7.30 in the -morning, and reaching Amecameca in about two hours. The distance is -fifty-eight kilometres, or thirty-six miles. - -"The town is of goodly size, and has a prosperous appearance. It was -once the resort of robbers, who occasionally dashed out upon the roads -in the direction of the city, and after plundering everybody who came in -their way they retired as speedily as they came. The people of the town -screened them whenever they were pursued by the military, and some very -vigorous action was necessary before the business was broken up. Most of -the three thousand inhabitants are Indians, and since the advent of the -railway and the consequent increase in the number of visitors they show -a laudable ambition to make the most that they can out of the strangers -who come within their reach. - -"Through the aid of Don Domingo Zela, Colonel Watson had secured a -sufficient number of horses and mules to give everybody a good mount, -and also for the transportation of the baggage. He had engaged some -_volcaneros_, or mountaineers, men whose ordinary occupation is the -transportation of sulphur from the mines in the crater; they know every -inch of the way, and are accustomed to all the peculiarities of the -mountain. Nobody should attempt to ascend Popocatepetl without a -sufficient number of volcaneros; one to each traveller is none too many. - -"Then there were several peons, or general servants, and there were -arrieros to look after the animals and see that none of them were lost. -Altogether we made quite a cavalcade, and must have presented an -imposing appearance to the crowd that assembled to see us off. - -"It did not take long to pack our baggage on the mules; we did not have -a large quantity, and, moreover, it was in bags or bundles suitable for -the pack-saddle. It included heavy blankets for keeping us warm at -Tlamacas--where we were to spend two nights close to the -snow-line--heavy overcoats, canned meats and other provisions, and our -travelling-bags containing the little odds and ends that one wishes for -his own use. We were told that we could get most of the things we needed -at Amecameca, but it might happen that the usual supply-shop would be -'out' just then, and we had better make sure by procuring in the city -the things that we wanted. Then we had goggles to protect our eyes from -the glare of the sun on the snow, thick mittens and mufflers to keep out -the cold from hands and faces, and heavy woollen stockings to put over -our boots to prevent slipping on the ice. - -"The boots that we wore were not our ordinary ones, but heavy affairs -specially made for the purpose, and having sharp nails in the soles to -give us a good grip on the ice. We did not put them on until reaching -the snow-line, and when we came back we gave them to the volcaneros as -souvenirs of our visit. If the fellows were sharp they probably sold the -boots at a good price to the first party of tourists who happened along -without this sort of an equipment. - -[Illustration: ALONG THE TRAIL.] - -"There was some difficulty in getting away, as Colonel Watson's horse -insisted upon having a private dance just to show off his ability, and -as the dance took place in the midst of the other horses, it made a -disturbance until we could get out of the way. The example became -contagious, and very soon some of the other horses joined in the dance, -but we managed to quiet them all down without accident. - -"We had been warned in the city that robbers occasionally interfered -with visitors between Amecameca and Tlamacas, and if we could procure an -escort it would be a wise precaution, and possibly save us from plunder -or a fight. Colonel Watson brought a letter to the commander of the -_Rurales_, or Rural Guards, at Amecameca, and that gentleman kindly gave -us an escort of four men to accompany us to Tlamacas and back, waiting -there while we were making the ascent of the mountain. Quite possibly -these fellows had been brigands, and may have carried on business in -this very place, but this was no affair of ours. They served us -faithfully, and we were not interfered with in any way. - -[Illustration: DWARF PINES AT A HIGH ELEVATION.] - -"That robberies have been committed, and murder too, was evident from -the great number of crosses along the road. There is said to have been a -time when a man known to have five dollars, or even one dollar, in his -pocket was not safe along this route. There were men who were ready to -commit murder for a trifling amount; anybody who wanted to be rid of the -presence of another had only to mention it to one of this gentry, and -accompany the mention with a suggestion that it would be worth five or -ten dollars to have the obnoxious individual disappear. In a day or two -he would be found dead by the way-side; a slight stir would be made by -the police, but if no reward was offered for the murderer the affair was -soon forgotten. - -"At any rate, that is what the chief volcanero, who acted as our guide, -told us, when we asked him about the crosses. But before we go out of -Amecameca, or Ameca, as it is often called, let me say that it is a very -pretty place, and reminded us of Interlachen or Meiringen, in -Switzerland. It is 8000 feet above the level of the sea, lies in a sort -of valley, and has an abundant supply of water, which rolls down from -the mountain and sparkles in numerous rivulets that flow through every -street. The water serves to keep the streets clean, and the clean -streets seem to have impelled the inhabitants to keep their houses in -presentable condition; the walls are white or in bright colors, and -altogether Amecameca is one of the most attractive little towns we have -seen since we crossed the Rio Grande. - -[Illustration: THE DOME OF POPOCATEPETL FROM TLAMACAS.] - -"There was a crowd of people in the Plaza Mayor, and in the -market-place, and the people seemed to move around more actively than in -the capital. Perhaps it was the greater purity of the air, though one -might think that its increased rarity would have an enervating effect. -Anyhow, it was cooler at Ameca than in the city, and that may have been -the cause of it. Many persons predict that this little town at the foot -of the great mountain will be a fashionable resort at no distant day, as -it certainly has many attractive features. - -"We had a ride of fifteen miles to the rancho of Tlamacas, where we were -to spend the night. The pack-mules went off in advance, while we sat -down to a good breakfast which the colonel had ordered in the Hotel -Ferrocarril. Then we mounted our horses, and after the dance I have -mentioned we got away. - -"Our road led among fields of barley, the lines between them being shown -by hedges of maguey or other members of the cactus family, and now and -then by rows of poplar and willow trees. The way ascended with more or -less steadiness, and after a time we passed from the cultivated ground -into forests of pine and other mountain trees. Some parts of the lower -hills were devoted to pastures, and the cattle in them were in good -condition. They are nourished upon a rich bunch-grass that grows here; -and scattered about here and there we saw a good many thistles, together -with beds of mountain flowers. We passed a few haciendas, the last being -that of Tomacoco, where there is a church very much in ruins. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN SAW-MILL.] - -"The pine forest begins after we leave the plain, and as we go up among -the hills the pines are reduced in size, as they always are on the sides -of high mountains. Our horses have hard work to scramble up the steep -path, but they are evidently accustomed to it and toil on bravely. The -guide warns us to be very careful in case we dismount, as the horses -have a trick of snatching their bridles out of one's hands and starting -down the mountain at the best speed they can make. Fred's horse tried -this and succeeded, but he didn't go far, as he was caught by one of the -soldiers, who happened to be in the rear, where the path was narrow. - -[Illustration: HACIENDA OF TOMACOCO.] - -"Do not suppose that the trees were small; some of them were two feet -and more in diameter and seventy or eighty feet high, and the air was -full of the sweet resinous odor for which a pine forest is famous and -that is so welcome to most nostrils. For one, I do not know a more -charming perfume than that of a forest of pines; and Fred agrees with me -in this. It was difficult to realize that we were in Mexico. Had I been -brought here blindfolded, and then asked to guess where we were, I -should have named New England, Wisconsin, or California long before -thinking of the land of the Aztecs. We passed several saw-mills of the -most primitive character. They were operated by two men, one standing -above the log and the other below it, and alternately pushing and -pulling the saw. The cutting was done by the downward stroke of the -saw, as in the ordinary saw-mills of the Eastern States. - -[Illustration: VOLCANEROS (MINERS).] - -"Higher and higher seemed the great mountain as we slowly zigzagged in -his direction. Sometimes he was hidden from our view by the trees or the -shape of the hills, and again he came suddenly before us and seemed to -signal us to persevere. Up and up we went; and when we reached Tlamacas -we were 13,000 feet above the sea, or more than 4000 feet above the town -whence we set out in the forenoon. - -"Our guide told us that there is a tradition among the Indians that Old -Popo and the White Woman were once living beings. They were a giant and -giantess, and for some disobedience of the gods they were changed into -mountains. The giantess was struck dead, and that is why she lies -stretched out on her bier and covered with a white robe; Old Popo was -the giant, and he was merely rooted to the spot where he stood. He shows -his grief by occasionally shedding tears of lava, which rolls down in -great floods, and in the sobbing and sighing that form a part of his -weeping he breathes huge volumes of smoke. Sometimes his grief is so -great that he shakes in agony, and then the whole earth is moved. -Evidently he doesn't feel as badly now as he used to, as he has behaved -very well for three centuries and more. - -"It was lucky we brought a supply of bedding and provisions, for there -was absolutely nothing at Tlamacas except some huts of rough boards and -stone. The rancho stands in a valley, and we descended quite a little -distance before reaching it; this descent seemed to us a waste of labor, -as we would be obliged to make up for it by another ascent. - -"Several times during the day we met donkeys and mules laden with ice -and sulphur, the two commodities which are produced by the great -mountain. Ice is cut from the places where it accumulates. The city of -Mexico has long been supplied from here, just as the cities at the base -of Mount Etna are supplied from that famous volcano. It is packed upon -mules or donkeys and carried to the railway or to the canal at Chalco, -whence it is brought to its destination. The sulphur is taken from the -crater, as we shall presently see, brought as far as the snow-line on -the backs of men, or slid down the steep side of the mountain; and from -there it goes to the railway on the backs of beasts of burden. - -"Ice-machines in the city have somewhat interfered with the business of -the Indians who bring ice from the mountain, and may possibly break it -up altogether. The ice is like that from glaciers all the world over, -and resembles snow more than it does the product of the New England -lakes and rivers in the winter season. It is sold in the city as _nieve_ -(snow), and the boys who peddle ice-cream in the capital call out, -'_Nieve! tome nieve_!' as they go about with their wares. - -"We managed to sleep fairly well in the huts at Tlamacas, and were tired -enough to go to rest very early. From our supply of canned provisions we -made up an excellent supper, and there was a material addition to it in -the shape of some fresh chickens, which one of our muleteers had brought -along just as a speculation. He argued to himself that we would be glad -to buy chickens in addition to the stock of food we had on hand, and so -we were. We gladly paid him double what the chickens would have cost at -Amecameca. Mr. Arms suggested that possibly the chickens had cost the -man nothing, as they were probably taken from a chicken-house during the -night while the legitimate owner was slumbering. - -[Illustration: IN THE PINE REGION.] - -"The thermometer went down to forty-two degrees during the night, and -when we started in the morning it was forty-seven degrees. The volcanero -was to call us at five o'clock; and for fear he would not be around at -that hour, Colonel Watson set an alarm clock, which he had stowed away -in his hand-bag. The clock fired itself off at five and waked everybody, -the volcanero included. - -[Illustration: EL PICO DEL FRAILE.] - -"We shivered in the sharp air of the morning while taking coffee and -biscuits for an early breakfast, and were mounted and off before six -o'clock. Between us and the volcano there was a strip of pines and then -a stretch of black volcanic sand up to the snow-line. It was a hard -struggle for our poor horses, and Fred and I wished to dismount and -spare them the exertion; but the guide warned us to save all our -strength for the climb that we would be compelled to make on foot, so we -stuck to our saddles in spite of our sympathy for the suffering brutes. - -"We had a magnificent view as we ascended, and Doctor Bronson, who went -no farther than the snow-line, said he was amply paid for his fatigue, -even though he was obliged to forego the view from the top. We looked -down into the Valley of Puebla, we studied the landscape as though it -were an out-spread map, and we watched the sunlight playing on the hills -and on the great cone that dazzled before us. Many times Fred and I were -reminded of our ascent of Fusiyama, but we found the scene far more -grand and extensive. The summit of Fusiyama is nearly four thousand feet -lower than that of Old Popo, and it can be readily understood that the -monarch of Mexico far surpasses that of Japan in grandeur. Fusiyama, -too, does not exhibit any valleys like those of Mexico and Puebla, deep -set in the encircling mountains, and gemmed with lakes that flash in the -clear sunlight. And, furthermore, it has no towering peak like that of -Orizaba to pierce the horizon, and no masses of mountains at nearly all -the points of compass to suggest that the earth was once a raging sea -that had suddenly become petrified. - -"We reached the side of a deep barranca, and descended to where a stream -dashed along a rocky bed. Then we slowly climbed the other side of the -barranca, and a little way above it we came to the limit of the trees. -They did not dwindle to tiny dwarfs a foot or so in height, as we often -find them on mountains, but stopped all at once while yet of respectable -size, though much smaller than when we first entered the pine forest. -Beyond the barranca we entered the worst of the volcanic sand, and our -horses stopped repeatedly to take breath as they waded through it. - -"In about two hours after leaving Tlamacas we came to a rocky ridge on -which was a cross. - -"'This is La Cruz,' said our guide, 'and here you must leave your -horses. They can go no farther.' - -"We dismounted. According to Humboldt's figures, we were 15,000 feet -above the level of the sea, and 2500 below the summit of the volcano. We -were 1000 feet higher than the summit of Fusiyama, nearly as high as -that of Mont Blanc, and 9000 feet above that of Mount Washington, and -yet we still had almost half a mile of perpendicular height to make -before reaching our destination! - -"There was a wide strip of sand between us and the snow-line, and -through this we walked painfully, slipping and sliding backward almost -as fast as we went on. Our progress was very slow, and the effort -required was great. Fred and I were glad that Doctor Bronson did not try -it, as he would have been sure to break down long before the snow-line -was reached. Mr. Arms is spare and tall and a fine walker, and Colonel -Watson is a small man, full of youthful vigor. It was fortunate that -they were, and it was also fortunate that Fred and I had had experience -in hill climbing, and then, too, we were younger than either of the -others. - -[Illustration: NOT A GOOD CLIMBER.] - -"When we reached the edge of the snow we sat down and rested. Some of -the peons had fallen behind, and we prided ourselves that we had shown -the Mexicans that Americans know how to climb high mountains without -turning back for want of breath. - -"We ate some of the solid food and drank some of the cold tea we had -bottled expressly for the occasion before leaving Tlamacas. When we had -thoroughly rested and refreshed ourselves we put on our spiked shoes, -covered them with the woollen stockings, and, armed with alpenstocks and -aided each by a volcanero, we attacked the great icy cone of the giant -Popocatepetl. The volcaneros carried our overcoats and had them ready to -wrap around us whenever we stopped. - -"Fortunately for us, the snow was in the best condition for ascending; -it was like a very hard drift, softened by the sun just enough to give a -good foothold but not sufficiently to let our feet sink more than an -inch or so below the surface. Our principal guide went ahead and we -followed in his tracks; every few minutes we paused to rest and breathe, -and long before we reached the crater the lightness of the air was such -that our halts were longer than our periods of ascent. - -"The blood rose to our faces, our veins throbbed, and for a time our -heads seemed on the verge of bursting. We appreciated the advice of a -gentleman in the capital, that no one with the least tendency to heart -trouble, or one with weak lungs or a tendency to corpulence, should -undertake the ascent of the volcano; and if we were to add anything to -the advice, it would be that everybody else should refrain from making -the attempt; it is the hardest venture we ever made in mountain -climbing, and we certainly would not again undertake it or urge a friend -to do so. - -"We left to one side the Pico del Fraile, a pinnacle of porphyry that -shoots up into the air like the spire of a church. There was a deep -chasm like an enormous moat at the side of the Pico, and we asked our -guide if anybody had ever passed the chasm and climbed to the dizzy top. -His face wore a smile of incredulity as he pronounced the feat -impossible, and furthermore said there was nothing there to pay for the -effort. Colonel Watson asked him, in sheer bravado, if he would -undertake to escort us there, but he shook his head without making any -audible reply. It is quite possible that he suspected the colonel of -'chaffing.' - -"Suddenly we were enveloped in a cloud so dense that we could see only a -few yards in any direction. The guide ordered us to keep close together; -and if by any accident we should become separated, we were to call out -immediately, and also keep our faces and feet directed to the ascent of -the mountain. We obeyed his instructions, but it was our good-fortune -that the cloud did not long remain to trouble us. It disappeared as -suddenly as it had come, and we had a fine view of the Valley of Puebla -and of the great mountain, the White Woman. As we rose to and above its -level it lost all resemblance to the recumbent figure that gives its -name, and became nothing but a broken mass of rocks and snow-drifts." - -[Illustration: "NO MOUNTAIN FOR ME!"] - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -THE ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL CONTINUED.--LAST STEPS OF THE UPWARD -JOURNEY.--LOSS OF LIFE ON THE MOUNTAIN.--HOW THREE INDIANS -PERISHED.--THE CRATER OF THE VOLCANO.--HOW THE SULPHUR-MINERS -EXIST.--DANGERS OF THE CRATER.--THE SOLFATARAS.--CAUGHT IN A -STORM.--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--SCENES IN THE CRATER.--A RAPID -DESCENT.--TOBOGGANING ON A GRAND SCALE.--HOW THE SULPHUR-MINE -ORIGINATED.--NO ERUPTION IN SEVEN THOUSAND YEARS.--RETURN TO -AMECAMECA.--EXPLORATION OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--TOMBS AND THEIR -CONTENTS.--CURIOUS INSTANCE OF PRESERVATION.--MONTE SACRO.--"MODERN -ANTIQUITIES."--INDIANS WORSHIPPING THE VOLCANO.--EXPERIENCE WITH A -RATERO. - - -"The snow hardened a good deal as we neared the summit," continued -Frank; "in fact it was much more like ice than snow, and the walking -became more difficult every minute. In some places it was as smooth as -glass, and but for our outside stockings and the spikes in our shoes we -would have been constantly slipping. Even as it was we had a good many -falls, but nobody was seriously hurt by them. There was no danger of a -long slide down the mountain, as the guide took us along a route where -there were many hummocks, or pillars of ice, so that we brought up -against them whenever we had the misfortune to fall down. - -[Illustration: "HURRAH FOR THE TOP!"] - -"Our woollen mittens were a great protection to our hands, which often -came in contact with these pillars and would have been cut by them, as -their tops and edges were sharp. We are told that persons who have made -the ascent without gloves or mittens have had their hands so badly -lacerated that they could not be used for days afterwards. - -"We had no serious accidents, which is not always the case with parties -making the ascent of Old Popo. Sometimes the snow slides down in the -form of avalanches, and occasionally the sand does the same thing. To be -caught by one of these avalanches is almost certain death, but happily -the guides know the mountain and its peculiarities so well that such -accidents are rare. Parties have been overwhelmed by storms of hail in -the same way that a party on Mont Blanc lost their lives several years -ago. Considerable areas of sand and snow are sometimes set in motion by -the tread of one's feet upon them, and the unfortunate climber who has -caused it is carried down and dashed to death on the rocks below. - -"One story that we heard was of three Indians who were descending the -volcano. One of them saw a depression in the snow like a furrow, and -thought it offered an easy footing. He went to it, and suddenly -disappeared from the sight of his companions. As they moved towards the -place to ascertain what had happened, they felt the crust sinking -beneath them, and had barely time to scramble back before a considerable -area disappeared in a crevasse. No trace of the missing Indian was ever -found. - -"It seemed as though our toil would never end, when suddenly Fred, who -was in advance, gave a shout and sat down. He swung his hat in the air, -and I wondered what he meant by it. - -"'Here we are!' shouted Fred; 'we're at the crater.' - -[Illustration: THE CRATER OF POPOCATEPETL.] - -"I hurried up as fast as I could, and sure enough there it was, a great -chasm a thousand or more feet deep, and fully half a mile across. The -sides narrow somewhat, so that a little way down you can make out pretty -nearly all of the outline. The bottom of the crater can be called flat -in a general way, though it is the farthest possible from the ideal of a -ball-room floor. Steam and the vapors of sulphur rise from solfataras -scattered over the bottom, and from these solfataras the sulphur is -constantly forming. The supply is inexhaustible, as the formation goes, -on a great deal faster than the miners can remove the product. - -"We scrambled down perhaps 200 feet, to where the edge of the crater -hung over like a precipice. Here there is a _malacate_, or apparatus for -hoisting out the sulphur. The men working in the sulphur-mines descend -and ascend by this apparatus; in fact there is no other way of getting -in or out of the crater. - -"Our guide told us that the men run great risks, as stones are -constantly falling from the sides of the crater, whence they are -dislodged by the frost and by the action of the steam and sulphur jets. -Rumblings like the premonitions of an earthquake are frequently heard, -and sometimes the ground trembles so much as to make one's footing -unsteady. In addition to this is the effect of the sulphur, which rots -the clothes of the men, and causes their teeth to fall out. They sleep -in caves in the sides of the crater, and on two or three occasions a -caveful of men has been overwhelmed and killed by the stony avalanche. -Altogether the place did not appear attractive as a residence, and I was -not surprised to learn that the men receive high wages, and even at the -rate of pay they are not easily obtained. They remain a month at a time -in the crater without leaving it, and are then replaced by new men and -allowed a vacation among their friends in the country at the base of the -mountain. - -[Illustration: BRINGING ICE FROM THE MOUNTAIN.] - -"We could have been lowered down by the malacate, but concluded not to -make the attempt. We could not do so without spending the night in the -crater, and this we were not prepared for; Doctor Bronson would be -waiting for us, and would fear some accident had happened; though, as -for that matter, we could have sent one of the peons to tell him; and -furthermore, we thought we should run more risk than we would be -compensated for by the experience. A party of three gentlemen went down -there a few weeks before we did, and one of them became exhausted, and -his life was saved with great difficulty. Our guide said, whether -truthfully or not we don't know, that a German gentleman died there a -few years ago, and since then the miners do not desire visitors among -them. - -"The crater is not at the top of the mountain, the highest point of -Popocatepetl being to the west of this great chasm, and about 1000 feet -more elevated. It is a sharp cone, and so difficult of ascent that few -have succeeded in reaching the summit. There is some dispute as to -whether it has actually been ascended, as the Government offers a reward -of $500 to any one who proves that he has been to its top. Some American -gentlemen in the capital city say it has been done, but the difficulty -of officially proving the accomplishment of the feat would be more than -the value of the reward. Hence it is not claimed at all; and -consequently, the negative testimony favors the assumption that no one -has yet scaled the height of Popocatepetl. - -"We remained nearly two hours on the summit, shivering in the cold air -in spite of our thick overcoats, while at the same time the heat of the -sun scorched our faces. While we were there a _borrasca_, or storm, came -on, and the air was suddenly darkened. We sought shelter beneath a -projecting rock, and watched the cloud of snow as it eddied and whirled -around the crater. At such times it becomes so dark in the crater that -the men cannot work; they retire to their caves and wait till the storm -is over. At the same time the fires of the solfataras become very -distinct, and recall the description of Dante's Inferno. - -"The storm lasted about twenty minutes and then cleared away, the sun -coming out as brightly as ever and the air growing comparatively still. -These storms are rarely of long duration, but they are to be dreaded -whenever they come; the temperature falls far below the freezing-point, -and the wind blows a gale. But down in the crater it is warm enough, in -consequence of the steam and heat from the solfataras. The snow melts as -soon as it strikes the bottom, and renders walking a matter of -difficulty. - -"The story of our descent of the mountain is quickly told. The workmen -had dug a straight trench in the volcanic sand, and it is down this -trench that they send the sulphur by the simple force of gravity. It is -placed in sacks, the sacks are piled on a _petate_, or mat of bulrush, -and when once started the mat and its cargo slide down with great -velocity. - -"For two reals each of us hired a petate of one of the men at the -hoisting-works, and with our volcaneros to guide the impromptu -toboggans, we went down with great rapidity and ease and without -accident. It reminded us of the descent of Vesuvius; the sand is much -like that of the famous volcano of Naples, and we were very glad to be -able to make use of it. - -"I said we came without accident; for the sake of exactness I must add -that Colonel Watson was pitched out of his vehicle at the end of his -ride, and stopped with his head and shoulders buried in the sand. Fred -had a similar experience, with the difference that he went in feet -foremost; as neither suffered any injury, and was ready to laugh over -the mishap, my original statement holds good. - -[Illustration: PACK-TRAIN FROM TLAMACAS.] - -"The Doctor had gone back to the sulphur rancho at Tlamacas, and thither -we followed him as soon as we found our horses. It was too late to get -to Amecameca that evening, and so we had another night among the sulphur -refiners. The sulphur is brought here just as it is dug from the crater -of the volcano; it is refined at Tlamacas and made ready for market, and -is sent thence to Amecameca on the backs of donkeys or mules. General -Ochoa says that in spite of its abundance he cannot compete at the coast -towns with the sulphur from Mediterranean ports, and his only market is -in the interior of Mexico. He intends to place some improved machinery -at the edge of the crater, so as to reduce the expense of hoisting out -the crude material; and in this way he hopes to lower his price. His -plan is to run his machinery by means of the jet of air from one of the -large solfataras, which he estimates at twenty horse-power. - -"While we were absent on the mountain General Ochoa's agent told Doctor -Bronson the following story about how the general came to own the -mountain: - -"'Serious attention to the richness and abundance of sulphur in the -crater of Popocatepetl was first called by Baron von Humboldt; the -existence of sulphur in the crater was known long before, as the -Spaniards seem to have made use of it in the time of the Conquest. In -one of his letters to the Emperor Cortez says, "As for sulphur, I have -already made mention to your Majesty of a mountain in this province from -which smoke issues; out of it sulphur has been taken by a Spaniard, who -descended seventy or eighty fathoms, by means of a rope attached to his -body below his arms; from which source we have been enabled to obtain -sufficient supplies, although it is attended with danger." There is -other evidence that the conquerors obtained sulphur from the mountain, -but their methods were of the most primitive character. - -[Illustration: AN IMPROVED REFINERY.] - -"'About the year 1850, an enterprising Mexican named Corchado visited -the crater, and brought away samples of the sulphur, which he carried to -Puebla. A company was formed, and a considerable amount of sulphur was -taken out, but owing to lawsuits and political troubles, the enterprise -was soon abandoned. When General Ochoa was a student in the mining -section of the military college his tutor was a gentleman who had known -Baron Humboldt, and was greatly impressed with his remarks about the -value of the sulphur deposits in the volcano. Through this gentleman's -advice the general applied to the Government for permission to work the -deposits, and he obtained a concession that gave him control of the -mountain down to the limit of vegetation. Afterwards he purchased the -rancho of Tlamacas, and established a refinery there; he has spent a -great deal Of time in the crater, and as he is an able geologist he has -much to say about it that is interesting.' - -"According to his theory, which is based on the lignite formed at the -bottom of the crater, there has not been an eruption of Popo for seven -thousand years; by that he means an eruption on a scale corresponding to -the size of the mountain, and not an occasional disturbance, in which -the crater throws up a few discharges of stones and an unusual quantity -of steam and sulphur vapors. In Prescott's 'History of the Conquest of -Mexico' there is an account of an eruption in 1521, taken from a letter -of Diego Ordaz, one of the captains under Cortez; but modern writers -think that Ordaz mistook a violent thunder-storm on the summit of the -volcano for an eruption. From what we saw at the crater we can readily -believe that he made such a mistake. - -[Illustration: LOOKING FROM THE TOP OF POPOCATEPETL.] - -"The view from the top of the mountain was the grandest we have ever -taken, and one we will never forget while we live. The air is so clear -that distance is strangely diminished; towns and villages that seem to -lie at our feet are really many, many miles away, and as we looked to -the eastward our guide told us that the streak of silver bordering the -horizon was the Gulf of Mexico. Mountain, valley, table-land, lakes, -plain, forest, all were spread before us, and in the range of vision -from the top of Popocatepetl an area of twenty thousand square miles is -said to be included. On one side of the mountain you can look down into -the _tierra caliente_ of the coast region, while on the other the eye is -lost among the mountains and table-lands that stretch away until lost in -the limitless distance." - -So ends Frank's account of their visit to the great mountain of Mexico. - -[Illustration: A DANGEROUS PLACE.] - -The party returned to Amecameca, and determined to remain there a day or -two to make some explorations in the vicinity, and also to rest from -their fatigues. During their stay Fred found the following description -of a visit to the crater of Popocatepetl by an artist, Mr. Frank -Kellott, which he carefully copied into his note-book. We have obtained -the youth's permission to copy the account, and it is certain to -interest our readers. - -"We followed a narrow foot-path," said Mr. Kellott, "until we reached a -shelf, where we were seated in a skid and let down by a windlass 500 -feet or so to a landing-place. From this we clambered down to a second -windlass and a second skid, which was the most fearful of all, because -we were dangling about, without anything to steady ourselves, as we -descended before the mouth of one of those yawning caverns which are -called _respiraderos_, or 'breathing-holes' of the crater. They are so -called from the fresh air and horrid sounds that continually issue from -them. But we shut our eyes and clung to the rope as we whirled round and -round in mid-air until we reached another landing-place about 500 feet -lower. From this point we clambered down as best we could until we came -among the men digging up cinders from which sulphur, in the form of -brimstone, is made. - -"We took no measurements while in the crater, and heights and distances -can only be given approximately. We only know that all things are on a -scale so vast that Old Pluto might here have forged new thunder-bolts, -and Milton's Satan might have here found the material for his sulphurous -bed. All was strange and wild and frightful. - -"We crawled into several of the breathing-holes, but nothing was there -except darkness visible. The sides and bottom were for the most part -polished by the molten mass which had passed through them, and if it had -not been for the ropes around our waists, we should have slipped and -fallen we knew not whither. The stones we threw in were lost to sound -unless they hit upon a projecting rock and fell from shelf to shelf. The -deep darkness was fearful to contemplate. What must have been the effect -when each one of these breathing-holes was vomiting up liquid fire and -sulphur into the basin where we stood? How immeasurable must be the lake -whose overflowings fill such a cavity as this!" - -The region around the base of Popocatepetl seems to have been densely -peopled at some remote period, if we may judge by the ruins that lie -scattered about, by the numerous tombs on the hills and in the valleys, -and by the great quantity of pottery brought to light by excavations. -Some antiquarians who have made researches here think that the cradle of -the human race is to be found in Mexico, and that the people of this -region gave the arts and sciences to Egypt and the rest of the Old -World. - -This conundrum was a perplexing one for our young friends. They did not -try to solve it, but contented themselves with investigations on their -own account. - -The first object of their attention was Monte Sacro, which is in the -town of Amecameca. It is a volcanic hill about 300 feet high, and -contains a grotto that was turned into a hermitage at the time of the -Conquest. A church was built there and a cemetery laid out, and as the -traditions of the old time became mingled with those of later days, the -place acquired great sanctity. It abounds in tombs, some of them very -old, and there were strange figures upon many of these resting-places of -the dead, which none of the party could decipher. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF TLALMANALCO.] - -At Tlalmanalco, a few miles from Amecameca, there are the ruins of a -convent which was begun in the time of Cortez, but was never finished. -There are the fragments of walls, with a portico formed by five arches; -these arches are supported by slender columns, which are covered with -delicate carvings and suggest an Oriental character; they reminded our -friends of what they had seen in temples in India, and Fred was so -interested in them that he made a sketch of the ruins. According to M. -Charnay, the carvings were executed by Indian artists, after designs -furnished by the Spaniards. That the arches have stood so long is proof -of the excellence of their construction. - -[Illustration: BURIAL-GROUND OF TENENEPANCO.] - -All around this place great quantities of pottery have been unearthed. -The story goes that thousands of vases and other precious things were -found during the construction of the railway; they were divided among -the contractors and are widely scattered, few, if any, of them ever -having reached the National Museum. - -[Illustration: VASES FOUND AT TENENEPANCO.] - -Quantities of so-called antiquities were offered to our friends, but -they had been warned long before and did not purchase any. The -"antiquities" are modern, and so great is the demand for them that a -considerable number of people is employed in their manufacture. The -dealers heighten the imposition by enjoining great caution on the part -of the purchaser, lest the Government shall ascertain that he is in -possession of the precious relic, and despoil him of it. - -A few years ago an enterprising antiquarian spent several days in the -neighborhood of Tlamacas, on the very foot of Popocatepetl. Among other -places, he examined the cemetery of Tenenepanco, which seems to have -been of considerable extent; he opened a great many tombs, and found -that the bodies had mostly been buried in a sitting posture, after the -manner of many ancient people. A curious circumstance which he -discovered was that while the bones were so decayed that they crumbled -to dust on being touched, the brain was very often intact and well -preserved. He attributed this condition to the high elevation and the -peculiar salts in the soil; one brain in particular was in perfect -condition, while all the skull was mouldered away. He was in some doubt -at first, but an examination showed that there was no mistake; the two -lobes were there, and the lines of the blood-vessels were distinctly -traceable. The same chemical combination that destroyed the bones -preserved the soft tissues of the body. - -He took out a great number of vases, cups, marbles, necklaces, toy -chariots, kitchen utensils, beads, caricatures of warriors, and many -other things illustrating the life of the people who made them. Some of -the cups were beautifully decorated, but unfortunately their exposure to -the air caused the colors to fade. Ordinary utensils of earthen-ware -were very soft when brought to light, and had to be handled with the -greatest care, but they hardened by exposure and were solid enough after -a few hours. - -[Illustration: CARICATURE OF AN AZTEC WARRIOR.] - -The youths learned that one tribe of Indians was accustomed to worship -the great volcano as a deity at the time of the Conquest, and the -practice is still maintained. They have caves in the forest on the -easterly side of the mountain, and once a year they go there to perform -their worship; no stranger is allowed to accompany them, and any one who -persists in following them runs the risk of his life. Some years ago, so -the story runs, an inquisitive white man followed a party of these -Indians into the forest, and was never seen again. What became of him is -a mystery; the Indians claimed that they knew nothing of his fate, and -there is no positive proof to the contrary. - -Frank had an experience of the skill of the Mexican thief during his -stay at Amecameca. He had dismounted from his horse in front of the -Hotel Ferrocarril, and while he was busy arranging the stirrup on one -side of the saddle, a thief crept up and stole the other one. He not -only stole the stirrup but the strap that held it, and the youth was -obliged to invest in another. - -"I'm surprised you've had nothing of the kind before," said the -proprietor of the hotel when he heard of the occurrence. "That was the -work of a _ratero_." - -"What is a ratero?" Frank asked. - -"He's a thief peculiar to this part of Mexico," was the reply, "or -rather, I should say he belongs to the whole country, and the finest -quality of him is produced around here. He will open and rob a trunk -while carrying it on his back between the hotel and the railway-station; -he will cut off the lining of a railway-carriage in less than two -minutes, steal railway-ties, and anything else that he can lift; and as -for ordinary thefts, his superior cannot be found anywhere. Several -years ago the authorities of this town decided to light it with -petroleum lamps, but the very first night they did so the lamps were -stolen by the rateros, and the town was in darkness as it had been -before." - -Frank was able to add a few notes to what he and Fred had already -ascertained about Mexican thieves. The youths discussed the subject, and -came to the conclusion that the tropics produced more adroit pilferers -than the temperate zones, at least such had been their experience. - -"It is no wonder," said Fred, "that these people have become experts in -stealing. Think how they have been despoiled by the Spaniards, who stole -their country and all it contained, and reduced the people to the -condition of a subject race. No wonder they have sought to revenge -themselves on their conquerors, and their mildness of conduct is to be -greatly admired, in view of what they have suffered. The condition of a -Mexican peon is such that, if I may be permitted the paradoxical -statement, he is obliged to steal in order to make an honest living." - -Thus musing, they returned to the city with the Doctor and their late -companions in the ascent of Popocatepetl. - -[Illustration: ANCIENT AZTEC VASES.] - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -RAPACIOUS CARGADORES.--OLD BOOK-STORES IN THE PORTALES.--PUBLIC SCHOOLS -IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL; THE PUPILS IN ATTENDANCE.--THEATRES AND -HOSPITALS.--A THEATRE SUPPORTING A HOSPITAL.--THE BROTHERS OF -CHARITY.--INSIDE THE THEATRES.--A PERFORMANCE OF OPERA.--A MINOR -THEATRE.--LISTENING TO A MEXICAN PERFORMANCE.--BULL-FIGHTING IN -MEXICO.--A DISGRACEFUL SPORT.--ORIGIN OF THE BULL-FIGHT.--MARIONETTE -THEATRES.--THE PROCESSIONS.--MEXICAN LOVE FOR -COCK-FIGHTING.--COMMINGLING OF RELIGIOUS CEREMONIALS AND -AMUSEMENTS.--THE POSADA AND THE PASTORELA; THEIR PECULIARITIES.--KILLING -JUDAS. - - -[Illustration: WANTS A SOUVENIR.] - -The train by which our friends returned to the capital left Amecameca at -1.20 in the afternoon, and reached the San Lazero station at 4 o'clock. -A crowd of cargadores swooped down on the baggage, and for a time -threatened to disappear with it in as many directions as there were -single pieces, but by dint of watchfulness and energy it was rescued and -placed in charge of a runner from the hotel. The Morelos, or -Interoceanic Railway, the one by which the party had travelled, is -distinctively a Mexican line; it was built by Mexican capital, or -capital borrowed by Mexicans, and the management is Mexican throughout. -When finished it will be literally what its name implies, as it will -connect the Atlantic Ocean at Vera Cruz with the Pacific at Acapulco. At -the time our friends were in Mexico work was being pushed on the eastern -division of the line (between Vera Cruz and the capital), and its -managers were confident of completing it by the end of 1890 or 1891. At -last accounts the completion of the western division (from the capital -to Acapulco) was very much in the future. - -It seemed to Frank and Fred that they had been away from the city for a -month or two, when in reality they had been gone less than a week. The -next morning they were out early to ascertain if any changes had taken -place during their absence--whether any new buildings had been erected -or old ones demolished, new streets opened, or new avenues laid out. -They strolled through the _portales_, and stopped at the little shops -established between the arches of the covered way that shelters the -sidewalks from sun and rain, to bargain for old books and odds and ends -of curiosities. Fred had received a letter from a friend at home asking -him to pick up certain old books if they were to be found, and he made -many inquiries for the volumes. One after another, he found them, and -the search roused in him a fever for book-buying which did not abate -until he had invested several dollars in antique specimens of the -printer's art. - -"How does it happen that so many old books are sold at these stalls in -the portales?" he said to Doctor Bronson on his return to the hotel. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF SAN LAZERO.] - -"It comes from the confiscation of the Church property," was the reply. -"For three centuries the churches and monasteries had been gathering a -fine collection of books for their libraries, and the confiscation of -ecclesiastical buildings under the Laws of the Reform threw the most of -these libraries into the market. Some of them were bought for -speculation and others for private use; in either case they were pretty -sure to drift sooner or later into the hands of the dealers. Gentlemen -familiar with the subject say that Mexico is to-day the best place in -the world for a book-collector to find what he is looking for." - -From the portales the youths extended their walk through several of the -principal streets, and reached the hotel just in time for breakfast. On -their way they passed a school just as the pupils were going in, and -this circumstance gave a hint on which they acted at once. - -[Illustration: ON THE WAY TO CHURCH.] - -They proceeded to collect information concerning the public schools, in -addition to what they had already learned. They found that there were in -the capital 101 free secular schools, with an aggregate attendance of -7400 pupils; then there were thirty-seven Protestant and twenty-four -Catholic schools, all free--the former with 1300 pupils, and the latter -with 4000. The Catholic schools are held in large buildings, as will be -readily seen from the number of pupils in the twenty-four schools; -while the Protestant establishments are on a smaller scale. There are -something more than 100 private schools for primary instruction, with an -average of thirty pupils to each school. All the wealthy families have -their children taught by private tutors or governesses, but the grade of -their education is not high. The whole number of educational -establishments in the city is a little short of 300, with an attendance -in the aggregate of about 16,000. - -[Illustration: MONKS AT THEIR MUSICAL EXERCISE.] - -Mention has already been made of the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts, -the Conservatory of Music, the Military Academy, and the Medical -College. To these should be added the Law School and the preparatory -schools and colleges of Architecture, Theology, Commerce, and Astronomy. -Some of these have been founded by the Government in recent times, while -others are descended from those established by the Catholic Church in -its days of prosperity. - -Of some twenty hospitals and asylums of different names and kinds, fully -two-thirds are the successors of benevolent institutions founded by the -Church. The oldest is the hospital of Jesus Nazareno, and was founded by -Cortez; he left a large endowment for it, and the hospital is still -supported by it in spite of many attempts by governments and individuals -to break his will. The last effort in this direction was in 1885, when -the will was sustained by the Mexican courts. The bad management of the -hospital in its early days led to the founding of the San Hipolito -hospital by Bernardo Alvarez in 1567. The pious people that joined him -became a regular monastic order under the name of Brothers of Charity. -The order was suppressed in 1820; the hospital fund passed into the -hands of the municipality, and afterwards went to the general -government. Since that time the city has managed the hospital, and -provided the necessary funds for it. - -[Illustration: A BELLE OF THE OPERA.] - -One of the theatres in the city (the Teatro Principal) owes its -beginning to the necessity for money to support the Hospital Real, -which was in the hands of the Brothers of Charity during the seventeenth -century. The first theatre was in the hospital building, and the players -were hired by the Brothers. Tradition says that the noise made by the -performers and audiences seriously disturbed the sick, while the -management of a theatre by a religious order caused a great scandal -among pious people. The Brothers argued that, no matter what the origin -of the money was, it was used for a good purpose, and they continued to -enjoy the revenues of the theatre until the hospital was discontinued. -The theatre, and with it part of the hospital, was burned one night in -1722, after the performance of "The Ruin and Burning of Jerusalem." The -common people regarded the conflagration as a sign of heavenly -disapproval, but the Brothers rebuilt immediately. A few years later -they rebuilt again; and in 1752 they laid the foundation of the present -theatre, and finished it in the following year. It has been changed so -much since that time that very little now remains of the original -edifice. - -[Illustration: A STAGE BRIGAND.] - -The theatre is one of the institutions of Mexico, and liberally -patronized. On this subject Frank wrote the following: - -"The Teatro Principal is not what its name implies, as it is not the -principal theatre at all. It may have been so when it was the only one, -but it certainly has not been of much account in late years. The most -fashionable theatre is the Nacional. Italian and French opera are given -there, and the place is open for one thing or another pretty much the -whole year. It is the fashion to have the commencement exercises of the -military and other colleges in the Teatro Nacional, and since we came -here there has been a grand concert in the building. - -"We went to the opera one night. The performance was fairly good, but -nothing remarkable, and we came away with the impression that the -Mexicans go there more to see and be seen than to listen to the -performance. The ladies were in full evening costume, and the men -seemed to be about equally divided between dress-coats and -double-breasted ones. There are boxes on two balconies and also around -part of the parquet. The prices for seats and boxes vary according to -the attraction, and the house is said to be generally well filled. - -"Most of the men left their seats between the acts, some of them to -smoke cigarettes in the lobby, and others to call on their lady friends -in the boxes or send packages of _dulces_ (sweetmeats) to them. The -pretty women in the boxes seemed to enjoy being stared at, if we could -judge by the way they smiled when opera-glasses were aimed at them. Many -of the men paid no attention to the performance, but constantly eyed the -beauties, and eyed them with their lorgnettes instead of their natural -organs of sight. They came back just before the curtain rose on each -act, and then each man stood up and made a survey of the horizon of -boxes, reminding us of the quartermaster of a ship at sea looking for a -sail. They tell us that the Mexican belles feel slighted if they are not -thus stared at, and there is a keen rivalry among them as to who shall -be the recipient of the greatest amount of attention. - -"We have been accustomed in other parts of the world," continued the -youth, "to hear the voice of the prompter at the opera, but we were not -prepared for it in an ordinary theatre where the performance was a play -in dialogue and not a musical one. We went one night to the Hidalgo -Theatre to see and hear a Mexican play. The prompter pronounced every -sentence before the actor did, and it was heard all through the house. -It completely spoiled the play for us, and we left before it was over. -What we liked a good deal better was the arrangement of the office, -where there were five or six ticket-sellers seated in a row behind a -grating, so that there was no delay in getting places. - -"They showed us a plan of the theatre in which the seats were marked by -pegs in holes. We selected three places, paid our money, and then the -ticket-seller drew out the pegs and handed them to us. The pegs were -numbered to correspond with the places, and we handed them to the usher -as checks for our seats. We found that we could buy seats for a single -act or for two acts, or three, just as we liked, on the same plan as in -some of the cities of Europe. - -"In addition to the theatre and opera, the Mexicans inherit the Spanish -love for the bull-fight. This form of sport has had its ups and downs in -the capital. It was abolished in the federal district for some time, but -was recently re-established or permitted, and now there are bull-rings -at the northern end of the Paseo and in San Cosme. There is always a -large attendance, but it is chiefly of the lower classes of the -population. - -[Illustration: TIVOLI GARDEN, SAN COSME.] - -"We have seen a bull-fight, but it was not a real one. It was given at a -marionette theatre, and was said to be an excellent representation of -the actual performance. The figures were about four inches high, and -operated by cords invisible to the audience. It was interesting and -funny, and we had a good laugh while looking at it. During Lent this -marionette theatre has exhibitions called _Los Processiones_, in which -long processions of various church dignitaries and characters are drawn -slowly along a stage or walk extending the whole length of the room. At -the time we saw the miniature bull-fight the walk had been removed, and -the stage was at the end of the hall. The audience was of the lower -class of natives, and we kept a good watch over our pockets. - -"The real bull-fight was something we did not want to see, and we -refused several invitations to witness it. It is a brutal, degrading -sport, from our point of consideration; but probably the Spaniards and -Mexicans would not agree with us. - -[Illustration: TEASING THE BULL.] - -"Mr. Brocklehurst, the author of 'Mexico To-day,' says the bull-fight -here is almost as attractive as in Spain, and the sporting men of Mexico -have their preferences in regard to the _ganderias_, the farms on which -bulls are raised, just as the same class in England have their favorite -stables for horses. The bulls are of proper age for fighting at from -three to five years; they are reared as carefully as race-horses in -other countries, and brought to the plaza during the night before the -day on which they are to do battle. - -"On their arrival they are shut in a dark pen, and when wanted for the -fight they are driven from this pen, one by one, to the _toril_, which -opens into the arena. The ring is a great amphitheatre, without a roof, -and the seats _al sol_ (on the sunny side) are only half the price of -those _al sombre_ (on the shady side). To the discredit of the people be -it said, the seats are generally well filled to witness this cruel -sport, and the great mass of the people seem to be more interested in it -than in the choice of a President or the opening of a new railway. - -"The performance begins with a procession of the fighters, and then the -master of ceremonies asks the judge for the key of the toril, which is -thrown to him. He then goes to the toril and lets in the bull, the band -and all other persons not concerned in the fight having judiciously -retired from the ring. - -[Illustration: PICADORES.] - -"The _picadores_, or mounted men, are on miserable horses, whose eyes -are bandaged so that they cannot see the bull; as the animal enters he -looks around in astonishment at the horses and their riders, at the -_capeadores_, with their scarlet cloaks to attract the bull's attention, -and at the _banderilleros_, whose duty it is to stick darts in the -animal to enrage him. Sometimes the darts have fire-crackers attached in -addition to the long ribbons with which they are always ornamented. - -[Illustration: THE MATADOR'S TRIUMPH.] - -"The most cruel part of the performance, and one which generally sickens -the foreign spectator, is when the poor, broken-down, and blindfolded -horses are gored by the maddened animal which has been brought into the -ring only to be killed. The most interesting part of it is when, after -killing several horses, and being worried for half an hour by his -tormentors, the bull is turned over to the _matador_, who, after several -feints and skilfully avoiding the charges of the animal, plants his -sword up to the hilt between the bull's shoulders. The matador is a hero -who is worshipped by the populace as much as is the champion base-ball -player in the United States, or the jockey in England who wins the -Derby. Once in a while a matador is killed by his four-footed adversary; -an occurrence of this kind adds interest to the sport, though it may -plunge the whole country into grief. - -[Illustration: THE FINAL BLOW.] - -"Next to the matador, the men who run the greatest risk are the -picadores, the fellows who fight on horseback. They are protected by -leather armor, which impedes their movements, and when a horse is thrown -down by the bull they often fall with him, and are unable to extricate -themselves. When this occurs, the capeadores, who are also called -_chulos_, endeavor to draw away the bull's attention by waving their -cloaks in front of him; the ruse generally succeeds, and the unfortunate -picador is assisted out of his dangerous position as quickly as -possible. Sometimes the bull will not be diverted from his attack on -horse and rider, and it is in such cases that the picador may be gored, -perhaps to death. If he is hurt but not killed, the spectators show -their appreciation of his bravery by tossing silver dollars into the -ring; and a wounded picador has been known to gather up a hatful of -these welcome coins before retiring. - -[Illustration: SCENES AT A BULL-FIGHT.] - -"A priest is always waiting in a room near the toril, in order to offer -the last sacrament to any luckless combatant who may be fatally injured. -When a bull is killed his body is dragged off by a team of richly -ornamented mules; these mules form part of the procession that opens the -performance, but they never seem to manifest any special pride in their -work. - -"We are told that the spectators are often wild with excitement over the -incidents of a bull-fight; they smash the furniture and railings, and -have been known to wreck a considerable portion of the wood-work of the -ring in their fury. Sombreros by the dozen, of all kinds and values, are -thrown into the arena, and a gentleman tells us he has seen hundreds of -spectators leaving the place bareheaded at the end of an exciting day. -From four to six bulls are killed at a performance--four being the usual -number--and ten or twelve horses. - -[Illustration: A BULL-RING OF THE HIGHEST CLASS.] - -"That will do for the national sport of Mexico," concluded the youth; -"it is only given because a description of the country would be -incomplete without it. Doctor Bronson says that bull-fighting was -originally a compromise with the Roman custom of gladiatorial combats, -and furnished a substitute that met the desire of the populace to -witness bloodshed. It was brought to Mexico by the Spaniards, partly as -a reminiscence of their home country, and partly to take the place of -the human sacrifices of the Aztecs. It has become a part of the life of -the people, and the government that endeavors to suppress it would run -the risk of being overturned." - -[Illustration: A SCHOOL ON THE OLD MODEL.] - -From theatres and bull-fights the conversation naturally turned to the -other amusements of the Mexicans. That the people are fond of gambling -the youths had already learned, also that one of their sports was -cock-fighting. Game-cocks are carefully trained for the work they are -expected to perform, and fights between them are of frequent occurrence. -A traveller in Mexico tells how he once visited a school where each of -the pupils had a game-cock, which he carried constantly with him, and -during school hours the birds were supposed to be tied up so that they -could not get at each other. The noonday recess was generally devoted to -a battle between two of the feathered champions, and sometimes the -teacher, who possessed several game-birds, joined in the sport with his -pupils. - -Cockpits are more numerous than bull-rings, for the reason that their -construction is inexpensive. Only a few posts and a thatched roof are -necessary. The birds are placed in the centre of a ring, and the excited -spectators crowd as closely as possible to the ropes in order to witness -the sport. Pretty nearly all the money in their possession changes hands -during or at the end of the performance, and sometimes the peons are so -warmed up to the business that they wager their hats, coats, and nearly -all their garments, together with everything else they possess. - -The religious observances of the country are closely mixed up with -amusements, as the festivities established by the Church are almost -invariably combined with entertainments in greater or less variety. In -this respect they have their counterpart in the Christmas festivities of -most Protestant countries. - -"They can't have Christmas here as we do," Frank remarked to Fred, while -they were discussing the subject. - -"Why so?" Fred asked. - -"Because," was the reply, "they have no chimneys, and consequently no -way for Santa Claus to get into the house after the time-honored -fashion." - -"That's so," answered Fred; "but you may be sure they have their fun, -and quite as much as we do. We'll look into that subject, and find out -about it." - -Fred investigated, and here is the result of his inquiries: - -"The Mexicans have a longer Christmas than we do, as it begins on the -17th of December, and lasts until New Year's Day. During their Christmas -they have an amusement called the _posada_, or inn; it is based upon -occurrences of the time when Cæsar Augustus ordered the whole world to -be taxed, and Joseph and Mary came to Judea from Galilee to be enrolled. -Bethlehem was so filled with strangers that they wandered from inn to -inn for nine days without finding accommodations, and then sought -shelter in the stable in which Christ was born. - -[Illustration: THE FIGURE OF JOSEPH (PROCESSION OF THE POSADA).] - -"In commemoration of the nine days of wandering, Mexican posadas last -nine days. In many houses processions are formed, and the people of a -family join in it, carrying tapers and singing litanies; figures of -Joseph and Mary are carried in front of each procession, and every door -that is passed on the round is knocked upon in the effort to obtain -shelter. The sound of the litanies is to be heard all over the city; -court-yards and windows are hung with numerous lanterns, and all the -public places are richly ornamented, and abound with pleasure-seekers. - -"The principal sport of the posada is breaking the _pinate_, an earthen -jar filled with dulces. The jar is richly decorated on the outside, and -ornamented with ribbons of paper. The pinates are made in the shape of -all known and many unknown birds and beasts, and also in the shape of -dolls, some of them being of great size. Peddlers go about the streets -with these things suspended from a pole, and the number sold at -Christmas-time is very large. - -"When the ceremonial procession is over the party goes to the patio, or -to a large room of the house, and there the fun begins. A pinate is -suspended from the ceiling, or from a cord stretched across the patio, -and then one of the party, blindfolded and armed with a stick, sets -about breaking the pinate; sometimes half a dozen are blindfolded at -once, and then the fun is lively. When the pinate is broken the dulces -fall to the floor, and everybody scrambles for them. Altogether, the -game reminds us of blind-man's-buff and some of our other home sports. - -"A good many people omit the religious part of the posada and come at -once to the jug-breaking. In wealthy families posadas often cost many -hundreds or even thousands of dollars; the ladies receive handsome and -valuable presents, and the broken pinates have been known to yield -showers of rings and gold coins, instead of the regulation sweetmeats. -The affair concludes with a grand dance, and the participants do not -reach home until a very late, or early, hour. - -"All through the Christmas and New-year festivities there are grand -balls, dinners, theatre parties, and the like; everybody indulges in -festivity according to his means, and not infrequently beyond them; and -when the affair is over, and the realities of life come again, the -tradesmen who seek to collect their bills make the time doubly serious. -In some parts of the country the _pastorela_, or pastoral, takes the -place of the posada; the amusements are pretty much the same, the -principal difference being that another incident of the nativity is -taken as the ground-work of the ceremonial. - -[Illustration: THE RAILWAY JUDAS.] - -"Another popular festival is on the last day of Holy Week, which is -devoted to the death of Judas. Effigies of Judas abound everywhere; they -are hung on trees and from windows, on lamp-posts, balconies--in fact, -everywhere they can be made to hang. You see them on the front of every -locomotive on that day, and on many another vehicle; in fact, it would -be easier to say where Judas is not than where he is. The figures are of -all dimensions, but usually of life size. They are filled with fireworks -of various sorts, so that they explode when a match is touched to them. -If from any cause they do not explode, they are torn in pieces when they -fall to the ground. In thus destroying them the people indicate their -detestation of the betrayer of his Master. Not infrequently the figures -that are hung from private houses have thirty silver dollars pasted upon -them, as a reminder of the thirty pieces of silver which were the -traitor's price. Of course there is a lively scramble for these coins -when the Judas falls to the ground." - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -EXCURSION TO TULA.--AN ANCIENT CITY OF THE TOLTECS.--CHURCH OF THE TIME -OF CORTEZ.--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TOLTECS.--TOLTEC KINGS, COURTS, -AND KNIGHTHOOD.--RUINS OF THE TEMPLE AND PALACE.--JOURNEY TO -MORELOS.--INTEROCEANIC RAILWAY.--MORELOS AND HIS SERVICES TO -MEXICO.--CUAUTLA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS.--TERRIBLE RAILWAY ACCIDENT.--DOWN -THE SOUTHERN SLOPE.--IN TIERRA CALIENTE.--VISITING A SUGAR ESTATE.--TO -YAUTEPEC AND CUERNAVACA.--RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS.--SITUATION OF -CUERNAVACA.--OLD CHURCH AND PALACE OF CORTEZ.--A FORTUNATE -FRENCHMAN.--ROMANTIC INCIDENT IN THE CAPTURE OF CUERNAVACA. - - -One of the volumes in which our young friends were interested during -their stay in Mexico was "The Ancient Cities of the New World," by M. -Charnay. The perusal of this book led them to wish to visit Tula, which -is famous for having been a city of the Toltecs, and a flourishing place -at the time of the Conquest. - -Leaving the city of Mexico at half-past seven o'clock one morning by the -Central Railway, they reached Tula at 9.40 A.M.; the distance is about -fifty miles, and the route is the same as already described, through the -Nochistongo cut. The returning train at 4.40 P.M. brought them back to -the city at seven o'clock, and the trio unanimously voted that they had -passed a most agreeable and instructive day. The heads of the youths -were filled with archæology, and they felt themselves almost competent -to write a history of the Toltecs and their migrations, in spite of the -obscurity of many of the traditions about this remarkable people. - -Instead of a history, they acted upon Doctor Bronson's suggestion, and -contented themselves with an account of what they had seen, with a few -supplementary notes by way of explanation. From this account we will -make a few selections. - -[Illustration: WARRIOR'S PROFILE, FOUND AT TULA.] - -"Tula now has a population of less than 2000," said Frank in his -note-book; "but according to the histories, it was a rival of -Tenochtitlan, the ancient name of the city of Mexico, at the time of the -Conquest. The inhabitants were firm supporters of Cortez, and among the -first people to accept the new religion and become his allies. Its -ancient name was Tollan, which is said to mean 'the place of reeds,' and -also 'the place of many people.' Cortez built a church there very soon -after he conquered the place. There is a church now standing which was -begun in 1553 and completed eight years later. - -"It is one of the best built churches in Mexico; at any rate, one of the -best that we have seen. Doctor Bronson thought it must have been -intended as a fortress as well as a church, as the walls in some places -are seven feet thick, and built in the most substantial manner. And it -wasn't a small building either, as it is 192 feet long by 41 wide. The -body of the church is more than 80 feet high, and it has a tower whose -top is 125 feet from the ground. The architects that came with Cortez -evidently understood how to erect substantial buildings. - -[Illustration: CHURCH AND PART OF PLAZA AT TULA.] - -"Exactly how many inhabitants there were in Tula when Cortez came nobody -seems to know; but it is certain, from the extent of the ruins, that the -city covered a wide area. There is a small and not particularly clean -river that winds through a plain around the base of Mount Coatepetl, -and the city stretched over this plain and was dominated by the -mountain. Great quantities of sculpture have been found here in -ploughing the fields or clearing the bed of the river, and explorers and -antiquarians have done a great deal of work with profitable results. -Some of the 'finds' have been taken to the museum in Mexico, some have -gone out of the country, and a good many large pillars and pieces of -statues remain in Tula to interest and instruct the visitor. - -[Illustration: TOLTEC KING AND HIS THRONE.] - -"According to the historians, the Toltecs founded Tula, or Tollan, in -the year 648. We have told elsewhere how the discovery of pulque brought -about the ruin of the nation, but whether this is really so or not the -historians cannot say positively. At any rate, the ruins of Tula are of -great antiquity, and as we walked and stood among them we tried to make -a mental picture of what was to be seen here a thousand years ago. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF A TOLTEC PALACE.] - -"We imagined that we saw a long line of soldiers, armed with spears, -light javelins, bows and arrows, and also with clubs studded with copper -or silver nails. They were protected by cotton tunics thickly quilted, -that must have been very warm when the wearers were marching, but -evidently made an excellent armor. They had leggings of the same -material, and they had wadded capes over their shoulders, but kept their -arms bare for greater facility in handling their weapons. We pictured -their king wrapped in a thick mantle knotted across his breast, with his -hands bare, and his feet protected by sandals. These sandals were held -in place by a thong passing between the first and second toes--exactly -after the style of the foot-gear worn by the Japanese at the present -time. His head was covered with a conical cap resembling that of the -Persians, and his ears were ornamented with heavy rings that glistened -through his long hair. - -"At one side of the field where the soldiers are standing in -battle-array we see some buildings which they tell us are storehouses -where grain is laid away in times of abundance as a provision against a -period of famine. This was a custom of the Toltecs, and on several -occasions saved them from great suffering. - -"One building which we cannot clearly make out is a tennis-court, so M. -Charnay says, and if we have any doubt about it now we can be convinced, -as one of the tennis-rings is still in place. Then there is a temple on -the top of a hill, and the procession that is going towards the temple -is in honor of a warrior who is receiving the honor of knighthood. - -"You will be interested in learning that they had a regular system of -knighthood here centuries before Columbus discovered America. When a -candidate was to be presented the knights accompanied him to the temple -in a solemn procession. At the temple a priest pierced the cartilage of -his nose with an eagle's claw, and then twigs were inserted in the wound -to keep the flesh from uniting as the sore healed. He was clad in a -coarse tunic, and then they painted him black all over, gave him one -tortilla and a little water once a day to save him from starvation, and -compelled him to lie on a mat on the cold ground. They allowed him to -sleep only a few minutes at a time, and waked him by a prod with a -thorn. Several times a day they sat down and feasted in front of him, -called him every mean name their language contained, and heaped all -sorts of insults upon him. They kept this up for sixty days; if he lost -his temper at any time and 'talked back' at their insults, or asked for -any of their food, the ceremony stopped and he wasn't made a knight. - -"If he held out bravely and patiently to the end of the sixty days, he -was then taken to the Temple again, and the whole order of the knights -received him with high honors. His mean garments were removed from him -by the oldest knight in the assemblage, and he was decorated with the -insignia of the order and dressed in fine clothes. The use of the hole -in his nose was now apparent, as the jewel that indicated his rank was -hung there. The Apache and other south-western Indians occupy the -country dwelt in by the Toltecs before their migration to Mexico. These -Indians wear ornaments in their noses, and are supposed to have derived -the custom from the ancient inhabitants. - -[Illustration: THE PYRAMID OF THE SUN AT TULA.] - -"So much for the past. Let us see what there is here now. Here are the -ruins of the Temple of the Sun, where the people worshipped that great -luminary; they made offerings of fruits and flowers, and sometimes of -birds, and, unlike the Aztecs, they did not indulge in human sacrifices. -The temple is now only a heap of stones partly overgrown with trees, and -it is said that a great deal of material was taken from it for building -the houses of the Tula of to-day. - -"We went from the temple to the ruins of the palace. These ruins were -unearthed by M. Charnay, and cover a considerable area of ground. The -guide who accompanied us was the same that aided the author of 'Ancient -Cities of the New World,' and he pointed out the different rooms in the -palace and their probable uses. One room, he said, was supposed to have -been devoted to a sort of 'Happy Family' of wild and domestic animals, -as it was the fashion of those times for every palace to have a -menagerie attached to it. Then they had coops and cages for turkeys, -ducks, and other fowls destined for the table, yards for goats and other -domestic quadrupeds, tanks for fish, and chambers for reptiles and birds -of prey. Servants' quarters were arranged very much as in modern -palaces; and altogether the Toltec kings had a good deal of comfort -about their residences. - -[Illustration: PARTS OF A COLUMN, TULA.] - -"In the plaza we saw some broken columns, which appear to have been -wrought with a great deal of skill and carefully mortised together. -There was also the lower portion of a caryatid. Fred made a sketch of it -with the guide standing at one side, so that you can see the proportions -of the figure. Only the legs and feet remain, and they are more than -seven feet high. Taking this height for a calculation, the head of the -complete figure before it was broken must have been nearly twenty feet -from the ground. - -[Illustration: TOLTEC CARYATID, TULA.] - -"The Toltecs built their houses of uncut stone laid in mud, and covered -with hard cement; this cement seems to have been of an excellent -composition, as it is well preserved in spite of the centuries that have -elapsed since the city was built. The floors are levelled with the same -cement, and some of them are smooth enough for skating-rinks. The palace -that we visited contains thirty or forty rooms, and there is a smaller -palace in another part of the town which we did not see. One of the -Toltec stone basins is used as a baptismal font for the church, and the -ruins supplied much of the material of which the walls are composed. - -"We dined fairly well at the Hotel de Diligencias, having taken the -precaution to order the dinner as soon as we arrived. We allowed -ourselves scant time for the meal, as we wished to utilize our stay as -much as possible in seeing the sights of Tula. If we ever turn -excavators of ruins, we will come to Tula and see what can be found. Our -interest is somewhat stimulated by the story that an Indian boy once -found a jar here containing 500 gold coins; he was ignorant of their -value, and sold the entire lot for a few coppers. If you hear of our -doing anything of this sort, please let us know." - -On their return to the city Doctor Bronson found at the hotel a letter -which contained an invitation to visit a sugar plantation in the State -of Morelos; the invitation included the youths, and was accepted at -once. Immediate acceptance was necessary, as the proprietor of the -estate was to leave the city on the following morning, and wished the -visitors to accompany him, and on their part they desired the pleasure -and advantage of his company on the road. - -The party took the morning train on the Interoceanic Railway, the line -by which they went to Amecameca on their excursion to Popocatepetl. -Their destination was Cuautla (pronounced Kwat-la) or Cuautla-Morelos, -as it is officially designated. - -"It was named in honor of the patriot Morelos," said Señor Domingo, the -gentleman whose sugar estate our friends were going to visit. - -"I have seen his name in the list of Mexicans who have made their names -famous," replied Fred, "and must refresh my memory concerning him." - -[Illustration: NATIVE HUT ON A SUGAR ESTATE.] - -"I will save you the trouble of consulting the histories," the gentleman -answered, "by giving you a brief sketch of his life." - -The youths bowed their acknowledgments of his courtesy as Señor Domingo -continued: - -"You doubtless know about the insurrection led by the priest Hidalgo, in -1810, which was the beginning of the War for Independence. Well, Morelos -was one of the curates under Hidalgo, and when the insurrection began he -joined in it, and raised a force of patriots to oppose the Spaniards and -drive them from the country. He began with five negro slaves as the -nucleus of his army, and soon had a following of several thousands. He -was successful at first, and his defence of Cuautla was one of the most -heroic affairs known in Mexican history. - -"Morelos had taken his position in the town, and was attacked by the -Spanish general Calleja, in February, 1812. He repulsed the attack, and -then the Spaniards laid siege to the place. For more than two months the -siege was kept up; provisions grew very scarce and the besieged were -near the point of starvation. Rats sold for one dollar each, and a cat -was worth five or six dollars. Lizards became valuable, and a fair-sized -one was worth two dollars, and could not be readily obtained at that -price." - -"Was the patriot army forced to surrender?" Frank asked. - -"No," was the reply, "it held out for sixty-two days, and then Morelos -managed on a dark and rainy night to evacuate the place and retreat. He -fought several other battles, but was finally captured. He was tried for -treason, and condemned to death, and it is notable that his conviction -was one of the last acts of the Inquisition in Mexico. Morelos was shot -in December, 1815; his memory is preserved in the name of the State we -are about to visit, and also in that of his native city, Valladolid, -which is now called Morelia." - -[Illustration: HENEQUIN PLANT.] - -"To be shot for treason seems to be the fate of the majority of Mexican -leaders," one of the youths remarked. - -"Yes," was the reply. "An intimate friend of Morelos, and one of his -ablest officers, was the priest Matamoras. He was captured and shot by -Iturbide, in 1814, and in revenge for his execution Morelos is said to -have butchered 200 Spanish prisoners. And Iturbide, as you know, was -disposed of in the same way, when he set foot on Mexican soil after his -banishment. It may seem strange to you to see the portraits of Iturbide, -Morelos, and Matamoras side by side in the public hall at Cuautla, and -to know we revere them all as heroes; but it shows you the ups and downs -of Mexican history better than anything else I know of." - -The conversation just related occurred as the train was wending its way -from Mexico to Amecameca. Beyond that town there were numerous curves in -the railway line, and the youths were interested in studying the rapidly -changing panorama as the train wound among the mountains in its descent -from Ozumba to Cuautla. Before the ride was ended they declared that -they had nowhere seen a more crooked railway, and expressed unfeigned -admiration for the engineer that built it. - -But their admiration was checked when Señor Domingo pointed out the -scene of one of the most terribly fatal accidents known in the history -of railway management. - -[Illustration: FIGHT BETWEEN REGULARS AND INSURGENTS.] - -"This is the place," said he, as they reached the deep barranca of -Malpais. "The railway was opened on the 18th of June, 1881, and there -was an excursion from the city, with a grand banquet at Cuautla. -President Diaz and nearly all the notable men of Mexico were on the -excursion and banqueting party; in fact there was hardly any government -left in the capital on that day. The banquet was given in an old -convent, which had been converted into a railway-station, and a very -good station it makes. - -"There was a regiment of soldiers at Cuautla at the time, and just six -days after the excursion and the opening of the line it was ordered to -the city. The soldiers were placed on platform cars, and several other -cars loaded with barrels of aguardiente were attached to the train. - -[Illustration: RAILWAY CROSSING A BARRANCA.] - -"It was dusk when the train started, and the night came on very dark and -rainy. The soldiers broke open some of the barrels of the fiery liquid, -and drank heavily to keep out the effects of the rain. The foundations -of the bridge at this barranca had been badly built, and were made -unsafe by a flood; when the train came along, the bridge gave way and -the cars were thrown into the abyss. The barrels of aguardiente took -fire, the cartridges in the belts of the soldiers exploded, the men who -were not killed outright or stunned by the fall were crazy with drink -and excitement, and shot and stabbed each other; many were swept away by -the torrent, and altogether the accident was the most horrible ever -known upon a railway, so far as I have read or heard. More than three -hundred lives were lost, and many persons think the real number was not -much below five hundred." - -[Illustration: A PRODUCT OF CUAUTLA.] - -Frank and Fred shuddered as they looked from the windows of the car -into the deep barranca, where the stream was rushing along in its wild -fury. The fallen train, inky darkness, the tropical storm, men crazed -with drunkenness, burning aguardiente, exploding cartridges, knives, -bayonets, and loaded rifles combined to make a picture terrible to -contemplate. - -[Illustration: TRAVELLERS RESTING.] - -The change from the Valley of Mexico to the warm country south of the -encircling mountains is very perceptible in the distance between Ozumba -and Cuautla, and more so where the line continues to Yautepec, fifteen -miles farther on. Cuautla is eighty-five miles from Mexico City, and -before the railway was opened it was very difficult of access. - -The railway, as before stated, is entirely Mexican in character; it is a -narrow-gauge line, and owes its existence to the owners of the sugar -estates in the region of which Cuautla and Yautepec are the commercial -centres. Through the political influence of these men a Government -concession and subsidy were obtained, with extra subventions for speedy -constructions. To the insecure character of the work, owing to the speed -with which the line was built, may be attributed the accident at the -Malpais barranca. - -Cuautla has about 12,000 inhabitants, and is 3500 feet above the level -of the sea; the rapidity of the descent of the railway will be realized -when it is remembered that Amecameca is nearly 5000 feet higher up in -the air, and less than fifty miles away. That the region is tropical a -glance from the car windows as the station is approached will readily -show. - -Cuautla contains a very good and venerable church, and a well-built -town-hall; the alameda is pretty, and when these have been seen the -stranger has practically finished with the place. Señor Domingo did not -allow our friends an opportunity to inspect the town, as his carriage -was waiting at the station and they were off in a few minutes. They did -not see the sights of Cuautla until their return. - -[Illustration: OVER THE HILLS.] - -They had breakfasted lightly before starting in the morning, and -substantially at Ozumba; it was half-past three in the afternoon when -they ended their railway ride, and the drive to the sugar estate -occupied fully two hours. The drive was along roads lined with tropical -trees and plants, and among plantations of bananas, sugar-cane, oranges, -and other products of the warm region. The air was dense and hot, and by -no means an agreeable change from the pure atmosphere of the Valley of -Mexico. - -Sugar is the chief product of the State of Morelos, the annual yield -being over 60,000,000 pounds, or 30,000 tons. Next to sugar comes corn, -the value of the corn product being nearly two-thirds as much as that of -the sugar. Coffee, rice, wheat, and fruits are the remaining yields of -the soil; and there are several silver-mines in Morelos, but they are -not of great repute. The story is that they swallow up a great deal more -than they produce, and are only worked when a capitalist happens along -who has a few hundreds of thousands he is willing to part with. - -[Illustration: A SCORPION OF CUERNAVACA.] - -A late and bountiful dinner was served at the plantation, and after a -pleasant evening with the family of their host the strangers retired to -rest. They were out early the next morning, ready for an investigation -of the sugar-making process as it is conducted in Mexico. - -Here is what Fred wrote on the subject: - -"We have seen sugar-making in several parts of the world, so that there -is nothing particularly new to us here. They have the most improved -machinery for crushing, boiling, and refining, and there is a portable -railway for transporting the sugar-cane to the mills. This railway is -shifted from one part of the estate to another as it is wanted, and the -saving of horse or other quadrupedal power is very great. The peons -appear to be well fed and happy; but it must be remembered that it takes -very little to support this class of the population. Nearly all the -sugar consumed in Central Mexico is grown in the State of Morelos and -the tropical region which immediately borders it. It is said that the -business is less profitable now than in former times, owing to the low -price of sugar. - -[Illustration: A CHURCH GOING TO DECAY.] - -"The process of making sugar has been described so often that it would -be superfluous to give it a place here. Some of the estates date from -the time of Cortez, and we were shown a building that was erected about -1540, if the tradition concerning it is correct. Of course the processes -for obtaining sugar from the cane have greatly improved since that time, -and the sugar-makers of three hundred years ago would be very much -astonished if they could wake up and see what is going on here now." - -Doctor Bronson and his nephews spent two or three days around Cuautla, -and then continued on to Yautepec, where they took horses for a five -hours' ride to Cuernavaca. They took the advice of Señor Domingo, and -spent the night at Yautepec, so as to make the horseback journey in the -early hours of the day, and thus escape the heat of noon. - -"We had a rough ride," said Frank, "but were amply repaid for it, not -only by the scenery along the way but by the quaint and picturesque -position of Cuernavaca. It has a commanding site on a promontory -projecting into the Valley of Cuernavaca, several hundred feet above it. -The valley is exceedingly fertile, and so is the ground on which the -town, with its twelve or fourteen thousand inhabitants, is located. -There was a town here when Cortez came to Mexico, and it was captured -and converted to Christianity before the siege of Tenochtitlan was -begun. - -[Illustration: MEXICAN HOUSE WITH TILED ROOF.] - -"There is a wonderful supply of tropical fruits, and also, we regret to -say, of tropical insects, the scorpion having a prominent place among -them. The widest street is the Calle Nacional, and the most interesting -buildings are the church and the palace of Cortez. The conqueror had a -grant of land from the King, which included the Valley of Cuernavaca; he -established his private residence here, and had a large estate, where he -introduced the cultivation of the sugar-cane and other useful growths of -the hot lands. His palace is now used as the public building of the -State of Morelos, which has its capital here; it has been changed a good -deal since his time, and we had some doubt as to the veracity of the -guide, who pointed out the different rooms and told the uses which the -great warrior made of them. - -"The church is well worth seeing, and according to the historians it was -founded in 1529, along with a convent of the order of San Francisco. -There is another church, which was built by a Frenchman who came to -Mexico a poor boy and was so successful in mining enterprises that he -accumulated a fortune of $40,000,000. He spent a million dollars in -building the church, and another million in making a garden which is one -of the finest in Mexico, though it is far from being what it was in its -best days. We went through it and were fairly enraptured with what it -contains. The whole flora of the tropics seem to have been gathered in -this garden, and not only that of the tropics, but also of a large part -of the temperate zone. - -"This fortunate Frenchman was named Joseph de la Borde, which is changed -in Spanish into José de la Borda. Lest you might think of coming here to -make his acquaintance, I will add that he was born in the year 1700, and -therefore isn't around very much just now. - -"Cuernavaca means 'cow's horn,' but we looked in vain for something to -remind us of the weapon of the favorite animal of the farm-yard. It was -explained to us that the word is a corruption of Quauhnahuac, which -means 'where the eagle stops.' This was a better definition, as the site -of Cuernavaca is one which an intelligent eagle might select for -building his nest, provided there were no human beings around to molest -him. The ill-fated Maximilian followed the supposed example of the -eagle, as he was fond of coming here; it was his favorite dwelling-place -whenever he could snatch a few days from the cares of state. Most of the -houses are roofed with red tiles, which make a fine contrast with the -foliage of the tropical and semi-tropical trees. - -"We visited the springs of Guadalupe which supply the town with water, -and found some charming scenery among the neighboring hills. Cuernavaca -lies between two barrancas, with very steep sides, and thereby, or -therein, hangs a bit of history. The barrancas offer an excellent -protection against assault, and when the army of Cortez came here there -seemed to be no point of access. You must remember that Cortez had no -Krupp or Armstrong cannon with which he could lie off at his ease to -batter the town to pieces and care nothing for the intervening chasms. - -"The Spaniards were at bay for some time, till at last some of the -soldiers found a place where two trees had fallen across the barranca, -and made a perilous but possible bridge. Over this passage-way they -crept, one by one, some of them growing dizzy and falling off, to be -dashed to death on the rocks below. Silently they effected the transit, -formed their ranks on the other side, and then, with the blare of -trumpets and the fire of musketry, they dashed forward and captured the -town. How it must have astonished the people when the position they had -considered impregnable was thus captured by the white men from beyond -the sea!" - -[Illustration: CLIMBING THE HEIGHTS.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -OVERLAND TO ACAPULCO.--SCENES OF LONG AGO.--PRESENT MODE OF TRAVEL.--TEN -DAYS ON HORSEBACK.--WAY-SIDE ACCOMMODATIONS.--ACAPULCO'S HARBOR.--RETURN -TO THE CAPITAL.--EXCURSION TO GUADALAJARA.--DOCTOR BRONSON LEFT -BEHIND.--OLD BRIDGES AND THEIR HISTORY.--BATTLE BETWEEN HIDALGO AND THE -SPANIARDS.--STORIES ABOUT BRIGANDS.--SLAUGHTER BY PRIVATE -ENTERPRISE.--HOW SEÑOR PEREZ SECURED PEACE.--ATTRACTIONS OF -GUADALAJARA.--THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CHURCHES.--THE GREAT -HOSPICIO.--WHAT THE EARTHQUAKE DID.--PUBLIC SCHOOLS.--A DAY ON A CATTLE -HACIENDA.--A RODEO.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL. - - -[Illustration: A WAY-SIDE SHRINE.] - -At Cuernavaca our friends learned that they were on the road from Vera -Cruz and Mexico to Acapulco, and the youths greatly wished to continue -to the Pacific Ocean. It is the old route of commerce between Spain and -Asia, and was travelled for hundreds of years by long trains of -pack-mules laden with the products of the Orient on their way to Europe, -and with those of Mexico and Europe destined for Asia. It seems -incredible that such a route should have been so long maintained across -the continent, with no track for wheeled vehicles, over mountains and -through deep gorges, with the dangers of robbers, pestilence, and the -hundred accidents that are liable to occur in such a country and such a -time; but so it was. Over this route were carried the cargoes of many -richly freighted galleons; along these dangerous path-ways thousands of -soldiers marched to glory or the grave, and hundreds if not thousands of -civilians went in search of new lands from which they could gather the -wealth they coveted. - -[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO ACAPULCO.] - -It is eighty leagues, or 240 miles, from Cuernavaca to Acapulco, the -port which once enjoyed a profitable commerce but is to-day of -comparatively little moment. Spasmodic efforts have been made at -different times for the construction of a wagon-road, but they have -never been carried far. There is a wagon-road between Cuernavaca and -Mexico City, a distance of about forty-five miles, and over this a -diligence runs three times a week each way, and wagons laden with -merchandise pass in fair number. But the business of the route is less -than it was two hundred years ago; the Mexicans hope for a revival when -the railway is completed from Vera Cruz to Acapulco, and a line of -steamers between Acapulco and China is under consideration. - -Doctor Bronson's plans did not include the overland journey to Acapulco, -and by way of consolation the youths determined to write a description -of the route from what they could learn from others. By consulting those -who had made the journey, and by references to some of the volumes in -their possession, they composed the following: - -"There is no regular system of hiring horses and baggage-mules for the -journey, and the traveller must make his bargain with an arriero. A -horse to carry himself, and a mule for the baggage, will cost about -forty dollars, twenty for each animal; if there are several persons in a -party the price can be reduced somewhat. It should be carefully -stipulated that the arriero pay his own expenses and those of his -animals, or the traveller will find himself mulcted for a considerable -sum as he goes along. The arriero will want to be paid in advance, a -demand that should be strenuously refused; the affair can be compromised -by paying half down, and the other half at the end of the journey, which -is ordinarily made in ten days. - -"As we start from Cuernavaca we find ourselves on a carriage-road, and -wonder how it happens that we were told we must go in the saddle. The -reason is soon apparent, as the carriage-road comes to an end after a -little while. It reminds us of that famous turnpike somewhere in the -Western States that began with a macadamized road fifty feet wide, and -steadily dwindled till it became only a squirrel-track and ran up a -tree, or a similar road that terminated in a gopher-hole. One gentleman -says the route from Cuernavaca to Acapulco is spoken of as a _bueno -camino de pajaros_ (a good road for birds), and he is about right. - -"The country is rough and the scenery wild and interesting, except that -one wearies of mountains and valleys after seeing a few hundreds of -each. Portions of the way as we leave Cuernavaca behind us are through -the sugar region. We pass large fields of cane and meet trains of mules -laden with sugar. At irregular intervals we find villages or isolated -houses, and in the construction of these buildings we observe that the -cane is very prominent. Houses in this region are mostly built of cane, -and their roofs are heavily thatched to keep out the heat of the -tropical suns and the heavy downpour of tropical rains. - -[Illustration: A COUNTRY HOTEL.] - -"This is the regular routine: We make an early start in the daybreak, -take a long rest in the middle of the day, then ride in the late -afternoon, and put up in a meson, or inn, or in the hut of some -villager. The accommodations are of the most primitive character, but -they are the best the country can afford, and we accept them without -murmuring. For food, we have eggs, chickens, fried bananas, tortillas, -and always the national dish, frijoles. We can get milk in the morning -but not at night, as they milk their cows only once a day. - -"Some of the rivers are fordable, others have been bridged, and others -swollen by rains must be crossed in boats. Some of the boats are large -enough to ferry our animals along with ourselves, while at the crossing -of others we are transported in dugouts, and the horses and mules are -compelled to swim. Of course in such a case everything must be removed -from the backs of the animals, and this causes a considerable delay. We -think ourselves fortunate in getting through in ten days when all the -hinderances of progress are considered. In some places there is -absolutely no track, as we follow the beds of streams, where at each -rise all traces of previous travellers are washed away. In the time of -floods these river-beds are abandoned, and the banks of the streams are -followed. - -[Illustration: GALLEON OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY.] - -"Years and years before New England and New York were settled the -Spaniards were traversing this route with long trains of beasts of -burden, laden with the treasures of the East. If you want to know what -they carried, read Bret Harte's poem of 'The Lost Galleon:' - - "'In sixteen hundred and forty-one - The regular yearly galleon, - Laden with odorous gums and spice, - India cotton and India rice, - And the richest silks of far Cathay, - Was due at Acapulco Bay. - - * * * * * - - "'The trains were waiting outside the walls, - The wives of the sailors thronged the town, - The traders sat by their empty stalls, - And the Viceroy himself came down. - The bells in the town were all atrip, - Te Deums were on each father's lip, - The limes were ripening in the sun - For the sick of the coming galleon. - - "'All in vain. Weeks passed away, - And yet no galleon saw the bay; - India goods advanced in price; - The Governor missed his favorite spice; - The señoritas mourned for sandal - And the famous cottons of Coromandel; - And some for an absent lover lost, - And one for a husband tempest-tossed; - - * * * * * - - "'And all along the coast that year - Votive candles were scarce and dear.' - -"A thousand mules and donkeys were required for the transport of the -freight of one of these galleons; a cargo was often valued at -$2,000,000, and the return one to the East was of equal worth. The -return cargo consisted mostly of silver, cochineal, cocoa, and other -Mexican products, together with European goods from Spain. The cargoes -from Asia were taken to the city of Mexico, and whatever did not find a -market there was sent to Spain by way of Vera Cruz. The old chroniclers -say that the Mexicans had the first selection of the goods, and often -aroused the jealousy of their friends in Spain in consequence. - -[Illustration: TOWN AND CASTLE OF ACAPULCO.] - -"Well, here we are at Acapulco, and for the last time dismount from our -steeds. We look upon the blue waters of the little harbor, but can see -no galleon at anchor, only a few sailing-ships and one of the steamers -of the Pacific Mail Company, which has just come into port and lies -fuming uneasily, as though impatient to continue her voyage. Were it not -for the semi-monthly visits of the Pacific mail steamers, Acapulco would -have no regular connection with the rest of the world. The place has a -population of three or four thousand only, and it has a fort on an -island which lies opposite the town, cutting off the long swell of the -Pacific Ocean, and forming one of the best harbors on the western coast -of Mexico." - -[Illustration: A SCENE ON THE DILIGENCE ROAD.] - -Frank and Fred returned with Doctor Bronson to the city of Mexico by -diligence. The road is rough, and they were severely jolted in their -eight hours' ride; they managed to shorten the rough part to six hours -by leaving the diligence at Tlalpan and coming thence to the city by the -tram-way. - -Hardly had the youths shaken the dust of the road from their garments -than they looked around for "new worlds to conquer." Their attention was -drawn to Guadalajara (pronounced gwa-da-la-_ha_-ra), a city that is not -often visited by tourists, for the reason that it lies off the main -route of travel. It is the capital of the State of Jalisco, has a -population of some eighty or ninety thousand, contains a fine cathedral, -and other public buildings, and altogether is worth a good deal more -than a passing thought. - -"We can go there by train," said Frank, "as the branch line from the -Mexican Central Railway at Irapuato has been recently opened." - -"How long will it take us to get there?" queried Fred. - -"About twenty-two hours," was the reply. "We can leave here at 8.10 -P.M., and if not delayed, the north-bound train will get us to Irapuato -at 6.57 the next morning. The train for Guadalajara leaves Irapuato at -8.40 A.M., and we are due in that city at 6 P.M." - -"But perhaps Uncle will not wish to go there; what will we do in that -case?" - -"Why, go alone, to be sure, if he can spare us the time." - -The plan was duly laid before Doctor Bronson, who at once gave his -permission for the youths to make the excursion without him. He did not -care particularly for it, and said he would be satisfied to look at -Guadalajara through their eyes. - -They immediately secured places in the Pullman sleeping-car for -Irapuato, and were off by the train that evening. By good-fortune they -were introduced during the day to a Mexican gentleman, Señor Sanchez, -who had a large hacienda near Guadalajara, and was then on his way to -it. - -With the customary politeness, he informed the youths that his "house -and all it contained were theirs;" he followed up the formality by -inviting them to spend a day or two with him, either on their outward or -return journey. They took the hint, and concluding that he desired to -have a little time to himself on his arrival, they arranged to stop off -on their return from Guadalajara. - -It is 353 kilometres from Mexico City to Irapuato, and 260 from that -station to Guadalajara, a total of 613 kilometres, or 380 miles. The -country from Irapuato is for the most part broken, but it contains few -high mountains, and here and there the youths found themselves looking -across plains of considerable extent. The region is well peopled, and -there are several towns or cities along the route, each of them -containing upwards of 5000 inhabitants. There are many _arroyos_ and -barrancas that severely taxed the abilities of the engineers, but they -are insignificant when compared with the great barrancas between -Guadalajara and the western coast. Construction parties are at work on -the western section of the route, and in due time the locomotive from -Guadalajara will sound its whistle at San Blas, on the shore of the -Pacific Ocean. - -[Illustration: AN INTERIOR TOWN.] - -"There are some interesting bridges along the old diligence-road," said -Mr. Sanchez, "that have excited the admiration of travellers. A few -miles this side of Guadalajara there is a stone bridge of nineteen -arches which crosses the Rio Grande de Santiago. Nobody can tell when it -was built; it bears at one place the date 1740, but whether that refers -to the construction or to the repair of the bridge I am unable to say. -At each end there are the statues of the King and Queen of Spain at the -time of erection, but they are so worn by time and defaced by vandals -that they cannot be recognized. - -[Illustration: AT THE HACIENDA.] - -"There is another old structure near Zapotlanejo, called the Bridge of -Calderon, which crosses a narrow but deep arroyo. It is of interest to -the student of Mexican history, as it is the point at which the patriot -Hidalgo, with 80,000 Indians, was defeated by a few hundred Spaniards. -His men were armed only with bows and arrows and spears, in addition to -a few old muskets and some wooden cannon that burst at the first fire; -the Spaniards were well armed, and had six or eight cannon, which -wrought havoc among the followers of the patriot priest. They were so -ignorant of the power of gunpowder that they rushed up to the cannon and -crowded their hats into the muzzles, in the expectation that they would -thus prevent the pieces from going off. Thousands of them were mowed -down, and finally the remnant were driven from the field. This was the -last great battle fought by Hidalgo; he retreated to Chihuahua with a -hundred followers, and not long afterwards was betrayed, captured, and -executed. - -"The country around here was formerly terribly infested with brigands," -he continued, "but they are rarely heard of now. A large number were -killed off by the Government troops, others by private enterprise, and -finally those that remained were induced to quit the business of -robbery, and become members of the Rural Guard." - -"You mention private enterprise as a way of getting rid of brigands," -Fred remarked. "I do not understand it exactly." - -[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE MARKET-PLACE.] - -"I can best explain the matter by giving an illustration," Señor Sanchez -replied. "There is a hacienda called Venta de Los Pagarros about -twenty-five miles from Tepotitlan, which belongs to Señor Perez. It is -twenty miles long, and there are nearly 50,000 head of cattle upon it. -Señor Perez bought it for a very low price, as the robbers had driven -away the former occupants, and nobody dared live there. He strengthened -his buildings so that nothing but artillery could do anything against -them, and then he organized his men into a military force and armed and -drilled them till they were excellent soldiers. They were all well -mounted, and he had thus a force of 200 men about him, ready to start at -an hour's notice by day or night. When a band of robbers was heard of, -it was pursued and hunted down, and no prisoners were taken. In two -years nearly 100 robbers were killed by Perez and his men, and the -country became quiet. Other proprietors followed his example and brought -about a peaceful state of affairs." - -"That is very much the plan on which the owners of the great mills at -Queretaro protected themselves," Fred remarked, and then the -conversation changed to other topics. - -There were broad fields of wheat and barley visible from the windows of -the train, and Fred observed that the fields were separated, and -protected from the incursions of cattle, by fences or hedges of cactus. -Their new friend explained that it was the cheapest fence in the world -to make; they had only to take the long shoots of the organ cactus, cut -them into proper lengths, and stick these lengths, or sections, into a -trench where the fence was to be. The dirt piled around the end of the -sections serves to keep them in place, they soon take root and grow, and -as they live for a hundred years or so the owner has no further trouble -with them. No animal larger than a rabbit can get through such a fence, -and it is equally impervious to a man unless armed with a hatchet. - -Señor Sanchez left the train at a station about forty miles east of -Guadalajara. The youths named a day when they would visit him, and then -continued their journey to the city. - -For what they saw and did in Guadalajara we will refer to Fred's -note-book: - -"It is a handsome city," said the youth, "and we are not surprised to -learn that it is considered next to Mexico in importance. It has a dozen -or more fine churches, and its cathedral, which was completed in 1618, -is one of the oldest in the country, and is considered next to those of -the capital and Puebla in point of wealth and grandeur. It occupies one -side of the Grand Plaza, has two tapering steeples and a handsome dome, -and altogether is well calculated to impress every beholder, whatever -may be his religious leanings. - -"The interior reminded us of the cathedral of Mexico in a general way, -though the detail is greatly varied. What surprised us most was the high -altar, which is thirty feet high and broad in proportion, and as rich as -carving and precious metals can make it. It was made in Rome, and hauled -here, we cannot tell how, over the terrible roads between this place and -Vera Cruz. Some of the blocks weigh several tons, and we shuddered as we -thought what an expenditure of muscle, human and quadrupedal, must have -been required to bring these masses of stone from the sea-coast 500 -miles away. - -[Illustration: COURT-YARD OF A PRIVATE HOUSE.] - -"The building has suffered from the elements, the cupolas of the towers -having been thrown down by an earthquake in 1818. Some time in the -sixties lightning struck the cathedral during service, and two of the -organists were killed by the shock. There are many valuable paintings in -the cathedral, and in the vaults beneath it are the bones of the bishops -and priests that have died here during the last 300 years and more. - -"We visited several other churches, and went to the great hospital of -San Miguel de Belan, which is generally known as 'The Belan.' It is -near the centre of the city, and covers, or rather encloses within its -walls, about eight acres of ground. It was founded about 100 years ago, -and at one time had a very large revenue; but successive revolutions and -robberies have plundered it of nearly all its possessions. It had an -income of $1,000,000 a year in its best days, but has barely ten or -fifteen thousand at present. - -[Illustration: IN THE POOR QUARTERS.] - -"It is the best constructed hospital edifice we ever saw, and we're very -sorry Doctor Bronson is not here to see and appreciate it. The buildings -are only one story high, so that the patients, doctors, and nurses have -no stairs to climb, and the rooms are twenty-five feet from floor to -ceiling, and well ventilated. The thick walls and roof make the place -warm in winter and cool in summer; and they told us there is no -artificial heating, and but little change of temperature throughout the -year. - -"There is another immense establishment, called the Hospicio de -Guadalajara, which is an asylum rather than a hospital, and an asylum -for everybody. It was founded about the same time as the Belan hospital, -by some gentlemen of immense wealth, and they are said to have expended -eight or ten millions of dollars in building and endowing it. Sixteen -hundred people are accommodated there, from infants only a few hours old -up to people who are nearing the end of a century of life. It has -sixteen departments that comprise an Infant Asylum, Reform School, -Juvenile School, Orphan Asylum, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Blind Asylum, Home -for the Aged and Indigent, High-schools for Boys and Girls, School of -Arts, Schools of Trades, Workshops, College, and Hospital! - -"We saw boys in the workshop making shoes, clothes, hats, and other -articles of wear, while others were at work at carpentering, and still -others were setting type and working a printing-press of the -old-fashioned kind. In the girls' section there were classes in sewing, -knitting, lace-making, and the like; and there were classes of young -women who were learning fine embroidery, music, and painting, to fit -them for governesses in families. It would take too long to write down -all we saw and heard, and you might get tired before you read it -through. We couldn't help wishing that some of our very rich men would -endow just such establishments in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and -other large cities of the United States, and take their reward in the -knowledge that they had done a great deal of practical good. - -"We were told that the city has an excellent system of public education, -and many of its people think it is the best in the whole country. There -are twenty primary day schools, five evening schools, and two -high-schools or _liceos_, one for boys and one for girls. The girls' -high-school is in an old convent which was confiscated at the time of -the Reform, and is admirably adapted to its uses. The boys' high-school -is in an equally spacious building, and the two schools have each four -or five hundred pupils, with a proportionate number of teachers. The -boys' school has a library of 30,000 volumes, gathered mainly from the -monasteries and convents. Then there are a School of Arts and Industries -and a School of Painting similar to that of San Carlos, though somewhat -smaller. - -[Illustration: MEXICANS PLANTING CORN.] - -"They have an opera-house and theatre here, and of course such an -enlightened city as Guadalajara must have a bull-ring. This ring is -equal to the principal one at the capital, and the 'sport' in it is -liberally patronized. There are four large cotton-factories here, and -there is a considerable industry in making pottery. We have mentioned -elsewhere the pottery of Guadalajara, which is famous throughout the -country and largely exported. We have bought a considerable number of -the clay statuettes that are sold here; they represent all the -industries and characters of Mexico, the prominent men of the country, -and in fact of the whole world. Statuettes twelve inches in height and -well modelled and colored are worth about twenty-five cents each, and -you can buy smaller ones as low down as a cent or even half a cent -apiece. They offered to make busts or statuettes of Frank and myself -for three dollars each, and have them ready in two days, but we declined -the proposal. - -"As for the people and the sights and scenes of the streets, they are so -much like what we have described elsewhere that I will not venture upon -an account for fear of repetition. We will say good-by to this -interesting city, and return to the capital, stopping a day at the -hacienda of Señor Sanchez." - -[Illustration: A RODEO.] - -They kept their promise and visited that hospitable gentleman, who -organized a _rodeo_, or cattle-muster, for their benefit. The -_vaqueros_, or herdsmen, rode away in different directions, and after an -absence of an hour or two reappeared driving numbers of cattle before -them. These cattle were assembled in a large drove, and there was a -continuous pawing, bellowing, and dashing here and there as long as they -were together. The vaqueros showed their skill in lassoing the animals, -seizing them by the leg or horn according to previous announcements of -their intentions. The performance ended with a contest of skill in -picking up hats or other objects on the ground. Frank placed a silver -dollar edgewise on the ground, and half a dozen vaqueros, one after the -other, endeavored to secure it. - -The first, second, and third missed it by only a fraction of an inch. -The fourth tumbled it over but did not catch it. It was set up again for -the fifth, who missed, and saw the coin taken in by the sixth and last -as he rode past at a gallop. - -Their host pressed the youths to remain longer, but they felt that they -might interfere with Doctor Bronson's plans by so doing, and therefore -declined the invitation. They returned to the capital without any other -break in their journey, and were warmly congratulated by the Doctor on -the good use they had made of their time. - -[Illustration: DRIVING A HERD.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT DIAZ; HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND HISTORY.--A -CHECKERED CAREER.--SAVED FROM THE SEA.--THE FAITHFUL PURSER AND HIS -REWARD.--CHARACTERISTICS OF DIAZ'S ADMINISTRATION.--MADAME DIAZ.--A -DIPLOMATIC MARRIAGE.--THE ARMY AND NAVY OF MEXICO.--THE POSTAL -SERVICE.--NEWSPAPERS AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS.--PRINCIPAL WRITERS OF -FICTION.--FROM MEXICO TO PUEBLA.--HOW THE MEXICAN RAILWAY WAS -BUILT.--DIFFICULTIES OF ENGINEERING.--APIZACO.--THE CITY OF THE ANGELS; -ITS CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CURIOSITIES.--MANUFACTURES OF -PUEBLA.--BATTLE-FIELD OF _CINCO DE MAYO_. - - -It was a fortunate thing for the youths that they did not remain another -day at the cattle-hacienda of Señor Sanchez. After listening to a short -account of what they had seen, Doctor Bronson told them that he had a -pleasurable surprise in store for the next day. - -"If it's a surprise," said Frank, "I suppose we must wait and ask no -questions." - -"There's no occasion for secrecy," responded the Doctor. "The American -Minister has arranged for me to have an interview to-morrow with the -President of the Republic, and you can accompany me." - -"That is a pleasurable surprise, indeed," said Frank, and Fred promptly -expressed a similar opinion. - -"I am to go to the legation at eleven o'clock," continued Doctor -Bronson, "and meet the Minister, who is to present me to the President. -The interview is fixed for half-past eleven at the National Palace." - -It is unnecessary to add that Frank and Fred were ready at the appointed -time, and that a carriage left the door of the hotel early enough to -deposit the trio at the door of the legation a few minutes before -eleven. The arrival at the palace was duly arranged, and the party was -in the anteroom of the President when an official came to call them to -an audience with the President. - -The time of the chief of a nation is valuable, and the interview was -over in about twenty minutes. There was nothing official about it, and -the visitors came away much pleased with the way they had been received. -The conversation ran upon general topics; it related chiefly to what the -strangers had seen during their visit to the country, and some pleasant -allusions on the part of the President to the United States and a few of -its public men. He did not follow the customary form of politeness by -saying that his house and all it contained were theirs, but as they rose -to leave he shook hands with them cordially, and said that if he could -be of any service during the rest of their stay, he hoped they would not -hesitate to apply to him through his and their friend, the American -Minister. - -[Illustration: PRESIDENT PORFIRIO DIAZ.] - -"A more courteous gentleman than President Diaz," wrote Frank, "it would -be difficult to find, and I believe this is the testimony of his -opponents as well as of his friends. Perhaps you would like to know -something about his history; well, here it is: - -"Porfirio Diaz was born in August, 1830, in Oajaca, and was educated -there. He began the study of law, but in the war between the United -States and Mexico he entered the army and fought in defence of his -country. He remained in the army and studied military science for -several years, when he went back to law again, on account of the triumph -of the party that gave the Dictatorship of Mexico to Santa Anna. He -fought in the revolution that drove Santa Anna away in 1855, and a few -years later he joined the Liberal party in the War of the Reform. He -continued with the Liberals during the French occupation; at the capture -of Puebla by the French, in 1863, he was made prisoner, but escaped. He -was then given the command of the Liberal army, but accepted it on the -condition that he should soon be replaced, as he was afraid that his -youth might cause the older generals to be jealous of him. - -[Illustration: VIEW IN OAJACA.] - -"He fought all through the war under great discouragements, was captured -a second time, and a second time escaped. After the retirement of the -French from Mexico, in 1867, he rapidly increased his army, and -besieged and captured Puebla; then he laid siege to the city of Mexico -at the same time that Maximilian was being besieged by another part of -the Liberal army at Queretaro. In the following autumn he was a -candidate for the Presidency, but was defeated by Juarez; then he laid -plans for a revolution, but was unsuccessful and obliged to flee from -the country. He went to New Orleans, and after a time was permitted to -return; then he was concerned in another revolution, and went again into -exile, whence he was called back by his friends in Oajaca, who had -revolted against the Government. - -[Illustration: SAVED FROM THE SEA.] - -"In his return he ran a great risk, as he was obliged to come to Mexico -by way of Vera Cruz. He took passage under an assumed name, and remained -in his room on the steamer under pretence of being sea-sick. When the -steamer was leaving Tampico he suspected that his identity had been -discovered by the officers of a Mexican regiment, which had been taken -on board at that port. Discovery and arrest meant execution, and he -jumped overboard and endeavored to swim to the shore, which was about -ten miles away. The captain thought he was a lunatic, and sent a boat -after him; he fought against being rescued, but was taken into the boat -and returned to the ship. The purser took charge of him, and Diaz -immediately told who he was, and asked for protection. - -"The purser promised it. The colonel of the regiment suspected that Diaz -was on board, and in the hearing of the latter offered $50,000 for -information that would lead to his capture. Diaz tells how his heart -sank when he heard the offer, and how it beat with satisfaction when -the purser replied that he knew nothing about the insurgent leader. - -"The purser smuggled him on shore disguised as a coal-heaver, and Diaz -reached Oajaca in safety. After his elevation to the Presidency one of -the first things he did was to appoint that purser a consul to represent -Mexico at a French seaport, and afterwards gave him the consulship at -San Francisco. - -"The Oajaca revolution was successful; Lerdo, who was then (1876) -President, was driven out of the country, and there was a very disturbed -state of affairs for a time. It ended in the election of Diaz as -President; he held the office from May, 1877, till November, 1880, when -he was succeeded by President Gonzales, the Constitution then in force, -and originally proposed by Diaz, forbidding the President to succeed -himself. He succeeded Gonzales in 1884 for a second term of four years; -in 1887 the Constitution was modified so as to permit the President to -serve for a third term, and in consequence of this modification he was -again elected in that year. On the 1st of December, 1888, he took the -oath of office, in accordance with the Constitutional provisions, and -began his third term, which will expire December 1, 1892. - -"There you have a personal history boiled down. President Diaz is a -thorough believer in general education, and in railways, telegraphs, and -other modern enterprises; in this belief he has been bitterly opposed by -the Reactionary party, which is principally composed of the old -aristocracy. In his first term concessions were granted for the -construction of railways by American companies, and other concessions -have been made since that time. One writer who is not particularly -friendly to the President says: 'Under the administration of Diaz -manufactures have increased, the resources of the country have been -developed, commerce has multiplied, education has been advanced, the -revenues have been appropriated to the purposes for which they were -designed, travel is safe, bandits have been dispersed, and railroads and -telegraphs are extending.' And from all we can learn this is by no means -an overstatement of the case." - -For the benefit of his young lady friends at home Fred added to Frank's -sketch that President Diaz had been twice married, his present wife -being the daughter of Hon. Romero Rubio, Secretary of the Interior. She -is said to be a beauty of the brunette type, charming in manners, an -accomplished linguist, speaking several languages, of which English is -one, and an exquisite judge of feminine apparel. Her dresses are made by -Worth, the famous man-milliner of Paris, and therefore she may justly be -considered the leader of fashion in the capital of Mexico. Her duties -are less onerous than those of the wife of the President of the United -States, as there are no receptions similar to those of the White House, -and consequently the Mexican capital is free from the social ferment -which is constantly going on at Washington. - -[Illustration: HOUSE WITH TILE FRONT.] - -Doctor Bronson added a note to the effect that there was a considerable -amount of diplomacy in the marriage of President Diaz with his present -wife. Her father was one of the leaders of the Church party, and the -marriage strengthened Diaz with the Conservatives by making them less -hostile to him and his policy; the party was further conciliated when -Señor Rubio became Secretary of the Interior, and other members of the -old opposition were provided with places under the Government. But -though the hostility of the Church party has been diminished it still -exists; its leaders are ready to take advantage of any mistake of the -Government, and if they could again obtain control they would speedily -overthrow the present Constitution, whose authority they have never -acknowledged. - -"The hostility of the two political parties in Mexico to each other," -added the Doctor, "is far greater than that between the two great -parties of the United States. The Liberal party in Mexico believes in -general education, in the construction of railways, the encouragement of -manufacturing and other commercial enterprises, and a complete -separation of Church and State. The Clerical party believes in the -condition of affairs which existed before 1858, in a union of Church and -State, and the control of education by the Church, and it has been a -steady and consistent opponent of the railways that connect Mexico with -the United States. It looks with alarm upon the present influx of -foreigners and the adoption of their ideas by the Mexicans. It is -proper to add that this alarm is shared by many adherents of the Liberal -party, who fear that their country is being denationalized, and will -some day be gathered into the fold of the United States." - -[Illustration: AMERICAN RESIDENTS OF MEXICO.] - -Frank and Fred examined the Constitution of Mexico, and found that it -had many points of resemblance to that of the United States. Each of the -States has the right to manage its own local affairs, but all are bound -together for general governmental purposes. The central government -consists of legislative, judicial, and executive branches, as in the -United States; the President is the executive head, and the Senate and -House of Representatives form the legislative branches. There are two -Senators for each State, and one Representative for every forty thousand -inhabitants; Senators and Representatives alike receive $3000 a year. -Congress meets on April 1st and September 16th, and each of its sessions -lasts two months. During the interim between the sessions a permanent -committee of both Houses remains at the capital. Representatives must be -twenty-five years of age, and Senators thirty years, and both must be -residents of the States they represent. All religions are tolerated, but -no ecclesiastical body is allowed to acquire landed property. - -Regarding the army and navy Fred wrote as follows: - -"The President is commander-in-chief of the military and naval forces, -just as he is in the United States. According to the official figures, -the war footing of the army comprises 3700 officers and 160,963 men; -these are divided into 131,523 infantry, 25,790 dragoons, and 3650 -artillerymen. On a peace footing the army includes about 30,000 men of -all arms of the service, including the Rurales, who keep the brigands in -order, as we have described elsewhere. A friend at my elbow says the -officers are almost as numerous as the privates, and he has known a -garrison where there were twenty-nine officers and only twenty-seven -soldiers. - -[Illustration: A MILITARY POST.] - -"The navy won't take long to describe, as it contains three small -gunboats and two larger ones. The small gunboats each carry one 20-pound -gun, and the larger boats two guns of the same calibre. They are -unarmored vessels, are not fast, and from all we can learn we don't -think the navy of the United States need have any fear of that of -Mexico, at any rate, after we complete some of the ships we are now -building." - -[Illustration: A COUNTRY POST-OFFICE.] - -"While we are considering public matters," wrote Frank, "let us look at -the Postal Department. There are about 1200 post-offices in the -republic, or one for every 8750 inhabitants; in the United States we -have a post-office for every 1200 inhabitants, or seven times as many as -Mexico in proportion to the population. The number of pieces of mail -matter handled in a year in Mexico is an average of two to each -inhabitant, while in the United States the average is fifty-one. The -Mexican mails are increasing in importance every year, and will continue -to do so as the people become better educated. The extension of the -railways causes many new post-offices to be established, and also many -telegraph offices. There are more than 20,000 miles of telegraph and 500 -telegraph offices; 14,000 miles of telegraph belong to the Government, -and the remaining portion is the property of private companies, -railways, and individuals. - -"If you want an example of progress look at the railways. Mexico had 379 -miles of iron roads in 1879, while in 1887 it had 3962 miles open for -traffic, including 92 miles of city and suburban lines. The length of -railway completed and in operation at the end of 1888 was something more -than 4600. Competent authorities say that by the end of 1889 the length -of railways in operation in Mexico will exceed 5000 miles. A great many -concessions for railways have been granted by the Government for lines -that are not likely to be constructed in the life of the present -generation. At one time there seemed to be a mania for railway -concessions, and the holder of a permission to build a line over an -impracticable route, between two insignificant points, believed that he -would be able to sell it for a fortune to an English or American -corporation. - -"Newspapers and other publications have increased in the last few years, -but not as rapidly as have the railways. The number is constantly -changing, new publications being started and old ones discontinued; and -sometimes the starting and discontinuance are very close together, as is -the case in other parts of the world. Altogether there are about 300 -newspapers in the republic, and of this number fully one-third are -published in the capital. Mexico City has as many newspapers as New York -or Chicago in proportion to its population, but their circulation is not -by any means as large; Mexican publishers are not obliged to stretch -their consciences by making affidavits every morning as to the hundreds -of thousands of copies they printed on the previous day, or the -hogsheads of ink they used for each edition. But though they may not -print and sell as many copies as the New York dailies, it is certain -that the Mexican papers are steadily gaining in circulation and -influence, and the future is full of promise for them. - -[Illustration: COMPOSITOR FOR "THE TWO REPUBLICS."] - -"The capital city has a daily paper called _The Two Republics_, which -is printed in English; it is specially interesting to strangers, as it -has a list of the things and places they wish to see, and contains -time-tables of the railways. Sometimes it has special despatches from -the United States and other parts of the outside world, but as it has no -competitor and its circulation could not be greatly increased by a large -expenditure, it wisely studies economy to an extent that would not -succeed in New York. There's a weekly paper called _The Mexican -Financier_, printed in English and Spanish; it circulates all over the -world, and is an excellent authority for everything relating to -railways, banking, and commercial matters in general. The _Financier_ -discusses important questions relating to the affairs of the Government, -attacks abuses of every kind, and suggests ways in which the prosperity -of the country and the welfare of the people may be improved. - -"The French population is large enough to have a daily paper in its own -language, and the Germans have a weekly one. There are twelve or fifteen -dailies in Spanish, and they represent all shades of politics. Generally -it pays better for a newspaper to be on the side of the Government than -against it; but some of the opposition papers are profitable, and edited -with much ability. The style of opposition writing here is to attack -very savagely, and sometimes the editors find themselves in prison on -account of the bitterness of their editorials and their sweeping charges -against public men and measures. Some of the editorials we have read -since we came here surpass anything in New York or Chicago papers in the -heat of political campaigns, and that is saying a great deal. The -editor-in-chief of _El Monitor Republicano_ served a sentence of seven -months in the Penitentiary for a too free use of his pen. He was -charged with exciting sedition; he was ably defended, and his case was -carried to the highest court in the country, which affirmed the decree -of the lower courts. - -"You couldn't remember them all if we should give a list of the daily -papers in Mexico, and so we refrain; still worse off would you be with -the names of thirty or more weekly papers, and as many monthlies and -other periodicals. You can find publications here on almost any topic -that one could name, and you can find an abundance of romances, at least -that is what they tell us. The popular novels deal mostly with Mexican -life, manners, and history; a friend tells us that we should read -'Guadalupe,' by Irenio Paz, 'Calvario y Tabor,' by Vincente Riva -Palacio, and 'Paisajes y Leyendes,' by Ignacio Manuel Altamirano. The -first is a novel, describing Mexican home scenes and life; the second is -chiefly concerned with the reign of Maximilian, and the sufferings of -the people during the foreign invasion; and the third is an account of -the manners and customs of the Mexican people in former times and at -present. We intend to get these books, and read them at our leisure on -the way home." - -The delightful and interesting visit of our friends to the Mexican -capital came to an end, as all things must. Farewell calls were made -upon friends and acquaintances, and early one morning the trio left the -hotel for the station of the Mexican Railway, as the line from the -capital to Vera Cruz is called. The daily passenger train leaves at 6.30 -A.M., and reaches Vera Cruz, or rather is due there, at 7.33 P.M. The -distance is 263 miles, and there is a branch line to Puebla twenty-nine -miles in length. - -The manager of the hotel told our friends that it was advisable for them -to procure tickets, and check their trunks in the afternoon preceding -their departure, else there might be mistakes and consequent delay in -getting away. Assisted by one of the runners of the hotel, Frank -attended to these formalities, and completed them to his entire -satisfaction. Tickets were taken to Puebla, and baggage checked to that -place; the trunks were carefully weighed, and all exceeding thirty-three -pounds to each passenger was heavily charged for. Frank remarked that -evidently the managers of the line were not running it for fun, but to -make money. - -"And well they may," said an American gentleman who was talking with the -Doctor when the youth returned from the station. "This line of railway -is one of the most expensive in the world," he continued, "partly in -consequence of the difficult engineering over the mountains and partly -by reason of the wastefulness of its builders. According to the report -of the Minister of Finance, its total cost was $36,319,526, or at the -rate of more than $123,000 per mile; it was built with English capital, -aided by Mexican subsidies. - -"It was begun in 1852, though there had been a concession for a line as -early as 1837. The concession included a Government subsidy, and one of -the conditions was that construction should be pushed from both ends of -the line towards the middle. This necessitated the transportation to the -city of Mexico of rails, locomotives, cars, and all sorts of building -material over the old diligence-road; the transport of these things gave -employment to great numbers of men and animals, but increased the cost -enormously, probably twice what it would have otherwise been. The work -was suspended several times by revolutions, wars, lack of funds, change -of government, and other obstacles; and the line was not completed until -the end of 1872. It was inaugurated by President Lerdo, on the 1st of -January, 1873, having been solemnly blessed by the Archbishop of Mexico -the previous day. - -[Illustration: SURVEYING UNDER DIFFICULTIES.] - -"When you see the section between Boca del Monte and Orizaba, where the -railway descends 4,000 feet in twenty-five miles, with numerous curves -of 300 feet radius and gradients of three or four per cent., you will -not wonder that a great deal of money was expended in crossing the -mountains. While the surveys were being made it was frequently necessary -to lower the engineers by means of ropes over the precipices, and the -workmen were often suspended in this way until they could cut deep -enough into the side of the mountain to obtain a foothold." - -There was not much of interest along the railway line as the train -rolled out of the capital. Our friends found themselves skirting Lake -Tezcoco, and they had a near and farewell view of the famous church of -Guadalupe; in order to avoid heavy grades, the railway takes a -circuitous course, and is much longer than the wagon-road connecting the -capital with Puebla. For many miles it is bordered on both sides by -fields of maguey; Frank and Fred estimated that the acres of maguey -plants they had seen since entering the country were sufficient to -supply pulque enough for a population three times as large as that of -the republic at the present time. - -As they neared Apizaco they saw some changes in the general aspect of -the country, but it was still the _tierra fria_, or cold region, in -which they had been so long sojourning. At Apizaco they changed to -another train, which took them over the branch line to Puebla, landing -them at the station of that city at the hour of noon. They sought the -Hotel Diligencias, and found it a comfortable establishment, from a -Mexican point of view. - -Puebla is a city of 70,000 inhabitants; it is old and wealthy, and its -cathedral is one of the finest in Mexico--some do not hesitate to give -it higher rank than the cathedral of the capital. Our friends went the -usual round of sight-seeing in the city, and according to custom, one of -the first things they saw was the cathedral. - -"Stop a moment," said Frank, "the cathedral was not the first object to -attract our attention. Our eyes had been fixed upon the great volcano, -Popocatepetl and his white sister; they are in full view from the city -and much nearer than at Mexico, so that they are far more impressive. -Then, too, we had a view of the noble peak of Orizaba, of which we -shall have more to say later on. - -"Puebla has so many churches," continued Frank, "that you can't expect -us to visit all of them. We went to the cathedral, which was consecrated -in 1649, and therefore is a venerable building; additions have been made -to it at various times since then, and within the last two or three -years a handsome monument to Pope Pio Nono has been erected on the -terrace on which the cathedral stands. The building has two fine towers; -we climbed to the top of one of them, and had a fine view. Fred and I -did the climbing, while the Doctor remained below. - -"You can judge of the richness of the interior when I tell you that the -high altar cost more than $110,000. There are eighteen bells in the -tower, the largest of them weighing nine tons, and an inscription on the -tower tells that this large bell cost $100,000. The chapels abound in -sculpture and paintings, and if we should make a list of them, without -any comment whatever, I'm afraid you would find it too long for patient -perusal. The cathedral is 323 feet long by 100 wide, and occupies an -imposing position which is well calculated to impress the beholder. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF THE COVERED WAY TO THE INQUISITION.] - -"We visited two other churches, the San Francisco and La Compañia, and -found them well worth the time we devoted to them, and a great deal more -than we could spare. Our guide showed us the ruins of the covered way to -the Inquisition; for Puebla, no less than the city of Mexico, had a -branch of this institution of the Church. Puebla has always been noted -as a religious city; it was founded as an antidote to heathen Cholula, -which is only a few miles away, and its full name is Puebla de los -Angeles--'Town of the Angels.' Before the Laws of the Reform went into -force four-fifths of the valuation of real estate and other property in -Puebla belonged to the Church, and one-fifth to private individuals. - -[Illustration: CATHEDRAL OF PUEBLA.] - -"Puebla has extensive manufactures of cotton cloth, glassware, and -pottery. Like Guadalajara, it is famous for its pottery, and it is also -famous for glazed tiles, which have been liberally used for ornamenting -the houses, both inside and out. Domes of churches and their outer and -inner walls are covered with these tiles, and the same is the case with -many private buildings. The effect is very pretty, though sometimes too -gaudy for our taste; but then, you know, the Mexicans are fond of color. -Another famous manufacture of Puebla is braided straw-work. Baskets and -mats were offered to us in great quantity and variety, and we found them -so pretty that we invested a handful of dollars in these articles. They -will come in very well at Christmas-time for friends whom we wish to -remember. - -"The city has a Plaza Mayor, a Zocala, an Alameda, and a Paseo, just -like any and every Mexican city. We gave a glance at them, and then went -to the battle-ground of the _Cinco de Mayo_ (5th of May, 1862). It is on -the hill of Guadalupe, and from one point we have a view of three -snow-covered volcanoes, together with a fourth mountain that just barely -misses reaching the snow-line. A much more important battle than that of -the _Cinco de Mayo_ was fought here April 2, 1867, when General Porfirio -Diaz, now President, stormed Puebla and captured the imperial garrison." - -[Illustration: STREET SCENE IN PUEBLA.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -FURTHER SIGHTS IN PUEBLA.--ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.--SCHOOLS, -HOSPITALS, ASYLUMS, AND OTHER PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.--CHOLULA AND ITS -GREAT PYRAMID.--FIRST SIGHT OF THE PYRAMID; ITS CHARACTER, SIZE, AND -PECULIARITIES.--ANCIENT CHOLULA.--MASSACRE OF INHABITANTS BY -CORTEZ.--RUMORS OF BURIED TREASURES.--HOW A CRAFTY PRIEST WAS -FOILED.--VISIT TO TLASCALA.--THE STATE LEGISLATURE IN SESSION.--BANNER -CARRIED BY CORTEZ.--FIRST CHRISTIAN CHURCH IN AMERICA.--ANCIENT PULPIT -AND BAPTISMAL FONT.--A REVERED SHRINE.--FROM TLASCALA TO APIZACO AND -ONWARD TOWARDS THE GULF. - - -[Illustration: PART OF PUEBLA.] - -"In the height of its glory," said Fred, "Puebla contained more than -ninety churches. In 1869 it had sixty churches, nine monasteries, -twenty-one collegiate houses, thirteen nunneries, and numerous chapels -and shrines. The confiscation of ecclesiastical property has reduced the -number of the churches to little more than twenty, abolished the -nunneries and all the monasteries except two, which are really -hospitals or almshouses for old and disabled priests. Some of the -confiscated buildings have been sold for private uses, and others -converted into schools, hospitals, libraries, and other Government -establishments for local, State, or general government use. - -"Doctor Bronson had a letter of introduction to the superintendent of -the Hospital de Dementes, or Insane Asylum, which is in the building -that was formerly the nunnery of Santa Rosa. We accompanied the Doctor -when he went to deliver the letter, and were politely received and shown -through the establishment. The hospital appears to be well managed, and -Doctor Bronson was much interested in it. Of course the building was -particularly attractive to Frank and myself, as we wanted to see how the -nuns were lodged in the olden times. They certainly had a most -delightful home so far as the eye was concerned, and I don't wonder that -the nunneries in Mexico were popular among the women. The decorations -everywhere were of beautiful tiles; the courts and their walls, the -walls of rooms, the ceilings, the oratories, the bath-rooms, and even -the kitchens and cooking stoves, were all covered with finely painted -and glazed tiles. It is easy to keep such rooms clean, and we certainly -have never seen a cleaner and neater building anywhere. We did not ask -whether the attractions of the place had any beneficial effect upon the -insane patients, but certainly they ought to have. - -"From all we could observe, the city is admirably provided with -hospitals, schools, and asylums, and no doubt the fact that so many -suitable buildings were ready at hand had something to do with their -number. Then, too, the Church had made liberal provision for the sick -and suffering, and the Government here, as in other cities, had the -good-sense not to undo the philanthropic work which was so long carried -on under religious auspices. In the general hospital half the patients -are treated by allopathy and half by homoeopathy. The advocates of -either system can readily demonstrate its superiority over the other, as -they can in other countries besides Mexico." - -[Illustration: PYRAMID OF CHOLULA.] - -Every visitor to Puebla should go to Cholula, and particularly to its -great pyramid, which is, in some respects, the most remarkable edifice -on the American continent. In point of fact, very few visitors fail to -see it, and many of them go to Cholula before doing anything else. - -"It is an easy excursion," wrote Frank, "as Cholula is only six or seven -miles from Puebla, and can be reached by a tram-way which deposits you -at the very foot of the great pyramid. A special car for sixteen persons -or a smaller number can be had for ten dollars, and it is as much -subject to your orders as a private carriage would be. As we were three -instead of sixteen, we decided to go in the ordinary way, paying fifty -cents each for the round trip. The cars afford a fine view, and -altogether we greatly enjoyed the excursion. - -"We took a guide from the hotel, and he called our attention to the -various buildings and other objects, of which there were so many that -they are considerably confused in our recollection. We crossed the -Attoyac Valley, which abounds in fields of grain, and is dotted with -ruined churches and monasteries, one of the latter having been converted -into an iron-foundery and another into a cotton-mill. There is an old -Spanish bridge crossing the Attoyac River, and the Mexicans have shown -their ability to utilize the water-power of the stream by building -several mills upon it. - -"We had not gone far before our eyes took in the mound, or pyramid of -Cholula, and also the great volcanoes of Popocatepetl and the White -Woman all in one view. The mound did not seem insignificant, although -backed by these great mountains; they are thirty miles away, though -they seem much nearer, while the pyramid is close upon our horizon and -steadily swells into the sky as we approach it. - -"This is a good place for a bit of history. Cholula was an important -city, and covered a large area, when Cortez came to Mexico; under the -conquerors it had at one time fifty churches and other ecclesiastical -buildings, but now it has dwindled to a population of less than 5000, -and most of its former edifices are in ruins. The great pyramid is the -principal monument of the Aztecs, and in fact it is the best preserved -of their monuments to-day in all Mexico. For a picture of what it was -when Cortez looked from its summit, we have read with great interest the -description in Prescott's History. Here it is: - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE PYRAMID.] - -"'Nothing could be more grand than the view which met the eye from the -truncated summit of the pyramid. Towards the north stretched the bold -barrier of porphyry rock, which Nature has reared round the Valley of -Mexico, with the huge Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl standing like two -sentinels to guard the entrance of this enchanted region. Far away to -the south was seen the conical head of Orizaba soaring high into the -clouds, and nearer, the barren, though beautifully shaped Sierra de -Malinche, throwing its broad shadows over the plains of Tlascala. Three -of these volcanoes, higher than the highest peak in Europe, and shrouded -in snows which never melt under the fierce sun of the tropics, at the -foot of the spectator the sacred city of Cholula, with its bright towers -and pinnacles sparkling in the sun, reposing amidst gardens and verdant -groves. Such was the magnificent prospect which met the eye of the -conquerors, and may still, with slight change, meet that of the modern -traveller, as he stands on the broad plateau of the pyramid, and his eye -wanders over the fairest portion of the beautiful plateau of Puebla.' - -[Illustration: SPORT AT CHOLULA.] - -"We are quite willing to adopt Prescott's description for our own, as -the scene is the same to-day as in the time of Cortez, except that there -is little left of the sacred city of Cholula, with its spires and -pinnacles, its gardens and verdant groves. The pyramid is a stupendous -structure, and worthy a place by the side of the great pyramids of -Egypt. It was long thought to be a natural mound, but all the -excavations that have been made in it show that it is an artificial -work, built by time and patience and the muscle of many thousands of -men. Its interior is of earth, and its exterior was once stone and -adobe, but time has covered much of the outside with earth, in which -trees, grass, and bushes have taken root and grow luxuriantly. - -"The car stopped at the foot of the pyramid, and there we alighted. -There is a sloping road leading to the summit; it was built by the -Spaniards, and in its construction much of the old masonry was removed. -We ascended partly by this road, and partly by steps, pausing several -times on the way in order to rest and take in the ever-changing view. We -did not take the measurements of the mound, and therefore must give you -the figures of others. - -"Humboldt says the mound is 1400 feet square, covering forty-five acres -of ground, and 160 feet high; another authority makes it 177 feet high, -and 1425 feet square. Another, and probably the most exact measurement, -gives the following figures: - -"North line, 1000 feet; east line, 1026 feet; south line, 833 feet; and -west line, 1000 feet. - -"The summit is a platform, or plateau, measuring 203 by 144 feet, and -having an area of not far from one acre. This plateau has a stone -parapet around it, and there is a chapel in the centre; the mound was -evidently built in four stories, like some of the oldest pyramids of -Egypt; but they are less distinct than the stories or stages of the -famous pyramid of Sakkara, on the banks of the Nile, which is said to -have been built by the children of Israel during their captivity. - -[Illustration: LOCAL FREIGHT TRAIN.] - -"The sides of the pyramid correspond to the cardinal points of the -compass, north, south, east, and west; and in this respect the structure -resembles the great pyramid of Cheops. Nobody can tell when it was -built; the Aztecs found it here when they came, and the Indians whom -they conquered said it was not the work of their ancestors. The Aztecs -dedicated it to their god Quetzalcoatl, and every year they sacrificed -on the summit of the mound thousands of victims in the manner we have -described in our account of Tenochtitlan. When the Spaniards came here -they found a statue of the Aztec deity on the place where the chapel -now stands; one of the first acts of Cortez was to destroy the statue, -and order the erection of a church in its place. - -[Illustration: A RELIC OF THE PAST.] - -"In his report to the King, Cortez said the city of Cholula contained -20,000 houses and the suburbs as many more. The people received him -kindly, but he learned, or pretended to learn, that they were plotting -against him. So he called a meeting of all the dignitaries, under -pretence of a consultation, and when they were assembled he ordered a -general massacre. Six thousand of the people were slain, and for two -days the city was given over to be pillaged by the Spaniards and their -allies the Tlascalans, who were bitter enemies of the Cholulans. The -Tlascalans were, of course, gratified with the slaughter and pillage, -but Cortez offended them deeply when he refused to permit the sacrifice -of the prisoners captured in the affair. - -"We remained nearly two hours on the summit of the mound enjoying the -magnificent view, and trying to picture the place as it was in and -before the days of Cortez, and shuddering as we thought of the blood -that had been shed there in sacrifices and by the swords of the -conquerors. Fred made a sketch of the view, and then we descended and -looked through the village, which contained very little of interest; -next we took a Mexican dinner at the Fonda de la Reforma, a small but -clean restaurant on the Plaza Mayor. The plaza is as large as that of -the capital city, but so little used that it is grass-covered in many -places. There were few people there when we saw it, but they told us -that it is quite lively on market-day, when everybody in the town comes -there; there is a Zocala in the centre of the plaza, but it offered so -few attractions that we did not visit it. We strolled through the ruined -churches, and our guide told us that one of them, the Capilla Real, -which consists of three churches in one, was built for the especial -accommodation of the Indians. The massacre which Cortez ordered is -supposed to have begun on the plaza, but no one knows the exact spot. - -[Illustration: INDIAN FARM LABORERS.] - -"The natives have a tradition that there are vast amounts of treasure -concealed in the pyramid of Cholula, and we remark that this tradition -seems to prevail concerning old structures in all parts of the world. We -heard it in Egypt, India, Japan, China, Palestine, and other countries, -and presume we shall continue to hear it wherever we go until we give up -travelling and settle down to home life. - -"Mr. Brocklehurst tells a good story about a priest who once learned -through the confessional that one of his parishioners had discovered the -cave where Montezuma's treasures were hidden. He explains that there is -a belief common through Mexico that at the time of the invasion -Montezuma hid all his treasures, and afterwards he and his high-priest -put to death all that assisted in the hiding, so that only they two -should possess the secret. - -"The priest persuaded the Indian to show him the cave, but it was only -on the condition that he should be blindfolded while going to it. The -priest thought to outwit the Indian, and so he managed to drop the beads -from his rosary, one by one, as he walked along; in fact he had provided -himself with several rosaries, so that he would have beads enough for -the road. - -"The priest saw the treasures in the cave and then walked home -blindfolded, as he had come. When home was reached, the Indian remarked -to his reverence, 'You had the misfortune to break your rosary, and drop -the beads on the road; I picked them up, and if you count them you'll -find they're all here.' And to this day no white man has found out where -those treasures are concealed. - -[Illustration: AN AZTEC RELIC.] - -"Secrets are preserved generation after generation by these people; -there may or may not be any treasures of Montezuma in the caves around -Mexico, but if the Indians know of their existence and the place of -their concealment, and believe it their duty not to reveal the -hiding-place, nothing can ever wring the secret from them. Persuasion, -threats, punishment, torture, have been tried repeatedly upon these -primitive people, but all to no purpose. - -"There is a document among the records of Tlascala which says a tribe of -Tlascalans brought in large quantities of gold-dust, and gave to the -Church enough to make and pay for the crown of the Virgin of Guadalupe. -The Spaniards tried to find out whence it was obtained, but the Indians -would not reveal the locality of the placer. Losing all patience, they -tied up several of the Indians, and flogged them 'within an inch of -their lives.' The Indians bore the pain without a murmur, and within a -week the whole tribe left for Guatemala, and with them all who knew the -location of the placer. To this day it has not been revealed." - -From Puebla our friends went to Tlascala, which is interesting on -account of its connection with the Conquest of Mexico by Cortez. -According to history and legend, it was an important city when Cortez -landed at Vera Cruz; now it has barely 4000 inhabitants, and the greater -part of its public buildings have disappeared. When Montezuma learned of -the approach of Cortez he asked permission to send ambassadors to him -through Tlascala, which was then at war with the Mexicans; the crafty -Tlascalans gave the desired permission, but at the same time despatched -an embassy to negotiate an alliance with the Spaniards, and join hands -with them in subjugating the Mexicans. Of course this was exactly what -Cortez wished, and the treaty was made before Montezuma could be heard -from. - -[Illustration: INTERIOR OF AN OLD CHURCH.] - -"We went by the morning train towards Apizaco," said Fred, "and stopped -at the station of Santa Anna, nineteen miles from Puebla. There we found -a tram-car, which carried us to our destination, three or four miles -from the line of the railway. It took us through the curious and sleepy -little town of Santa Anna, where not even the dogs showed any signs of -activity, with the exception of one that was biting a flea. Then we -passed some ruined churches, went at full speed into the valley of the -Attoyac, passed another town whose name I've forgotten, and pulled up at -Tlascala in front of the hotel where we expected to have breakfast and -pass the night. It was not a prepossessing hotel, but we thought it -might be endured for our brief stay; the result was better than we -anticipated, as the food, thoroughly Mexican, proved toothsome, and the -beds were hard enough to get us up early in the morning without any -summons from a night porter. - -"The State Legislature was in session, for Tlascala is the capital of -the State of the same name, which happens to be the smallest -commonwealth of the Mexican union. We looked in upon the meeting and -found the members seated in two rows, facing each other; there were -eight of them, and all were smoking as unconcernedly as though in their -own homes. Doctor Bronson told us that smoking is permissible at all -times in the Mexican Congress, and therefore the State Legislatures only -follow the example which is set by the higher body. At one end of the -hall is a railing which shuts off a space for the President and his -secretaries, and close by the rail there is a tribune where the members -stand when making speeches. - -"After looking at the Legislature and listening for a few minutes to a -discussion relative to an appropriation for making a road from somewhere -to somewhere else, we looked at the curiosities in the Legislative -building, which seems to be quite a museum in its way. They showed us -the banner which Cortez carried in his conquest of Mexico, and -afterwards presented to the Tlascalans in acknowledgment of the great -services they had rendered him. It is about ten feet long and forked, or -'swallow-tailed,' at the end; the fine and heavy silk of which it is -made was once a beautiful crimson; but it has faded to the complexion of -a decoction of badly made coffee; and the tassels and cords are -somewhat frayed and worn. Considerable sums of money have been offered -for this banner on behalf of Spain, but the Tlascalans have refused all -propositions for its sale. We saw also the grant of arms to the city -signed by Charles V. of Spain, and the city charter bearing the -signature of Philip II. and dated at Barcelona, May 10, 1585. - -"There is a mass of official documents, all of great age, that we had no -time to examine, but which would be of great interest to a student of -Mexican history. They showed us the treasure chest, which had four -locks; and it was explained that anciently the city was ruled by four -chiefs, each of whom had a key to one of the locks. Each of these chiefs -had a palace of his own, and when the Spaniards came they destroyed the -palaces and erected churches upon their sites. Time is destroying the -churches, and only their ruins remain to show where the palaces were. - -"One of the documents preserved here is the Spanish translation of an -order commanding that 80,000 picked men should march with Cortez against -Mexico. Cortez personally gave orders for the translation of this -historic paper. In the same room is the war-drum of the Tlascalans--a -hollow log two and a half feet long and six or eight inches in -thickness, and covered with curious carvings. - -[Illustration: FIRST CHRISTIAN PULPIT IN AMERICA.] - -"The object of greatest interest to us was the first Christian church -and the first Christian pulpit erected on American soil. They told us -that the structure now standing is the original one built by order of -Cortez; it is in good preservation, and evidently has been well cared -for. On the pulpit is an inscription which relates that the church was -the first erected in 'New Spain.' Not far from the pulpit is the font in -which the four chiefs of Tlascala were baptized in 1520; it is cut from -a single block of black lava, resembles a huge bowl, and is of very -creditable workmanship. The portraits of these four chiefs are preserved -in the Legislative building, and each of them has 'Señor Don' prefixed -to his Indian name; other portraits are in the same building, and there -are many paintings in the church, but few that we saw possess any merit -beyond that of an ordinary tavern-sign. - -[Illustration: OLD BAPTISMAL PONT, TLASCALA.] - -"While we were strolling about the town," continued Fred, "we saw some -Indians coming in from the mountains with logs of wood which were to be -cut into planks, and beams already shaped and finished. We judged that -these timbers weighed not less than 400 pounds apiece, and some of them -little, if any, below 500 pounds. They carried these timbers as they -carry most other burdens, slung over their backs and supported by straps -crossing their foreheads. These are the descendants of the people that -carried over the mountains the timber for the brigantines of Cortez -which he launched on Lake Tezcoco and used for the reduction of -Tenochtitlan. We examined a beam that one of the carriers had placed on -the ground, and found it to be of hard pine, twenty feet long, ten -inches wide, and six inches thick. You may make your own calculation as -to its weight if you think our estimates too high. - -[Illustration: ANCIENT BELLS.] - -"There are several old churches in Tlascala in addition to the one we -have mentioned, and we visited some of them more to pass away the time -than with the expectation of finding anything of interest. - -"In the afternoon we went to the shrine of Ocatlan, which is on a hill a -mile or more from the grand plaza. This, we learned, was similar to the -church of Guadalupe near the capital, as it commemorates the miraculous -appearance of the Virgin to a poor, ignorant, but benevolent Indian -named Juan Diego, in the years not long after the Conquest. The shrine -is mostly of modern construction, and is greatly revered by the Indians, -who come here in large numbers from all the surrounding country." - -The party spent the night at Tlascala and left the place in season to -connect with the train from Puebla, which meets the downward train at -Apizaco from Mexico for Vera Cruz. Their trunks went by the train of the -previous day, and were waiting for them in care of the Apizaco -station-master. They had an abundance of time for breakfast at the -junction; the through trains stop there twenty minutes for meals, and -our travellers arrived fully a quarter of an hour in advance of the -train by which they were to depart. - -Apizaco is eighty-six miles from the city of Mexico. For the next sixty -miles of the journey there was nothing of special interest along the -route, which traverses the table-land at an elevation of nearly 8000 -feet above the sea. The highest point on the line is at the siding of -Ococotlan, between the stations of Guadalupe and Soltepec, where the -elevation is 8333 feet. At Esperanza, near the edge of the great -plateau, 152 miles from Mexico City, the barometer shows a height of -7900 feet. Here they met the up-train from Vera Cruz, which had left -that city at 5.30 A.M., and was due in the capital at 7.30 P.M. - -Just beyond Esperanza the train reached Boca del Monte, or "Mouth of the -Mountain," and here began the descent to the _tierra caliente_. What our -young friends saw in this descent will be told in the next chapter. - -[Illustration: A NATIVE PLOUGHMAN.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - -DOWN THE _CUMBRES_.--A MONSTER LOCOMOTIVE.--MALTRATA.--EL BARRANCA DEL -INFERNILLO.--IN _THE TIERRA TEMPLADA_.--PEAK OF ORIZABA; HOW IT WAS -ASCENDED.--AN OLD AND QUAINT TOWN.--EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF -ORIZABA.--FALLS OF THE RINCON GRANDE.--MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES.--CERRO -DEL BORREGO.--THE MEXICAN ARMY ROUTED.--CORDOBA.--HOW TO RUN A COFFEE -PLANTATION.--BARRANCA OF METLAC.--PASO DEL MACHO.--_TIERRA -CALIENTE_.--DRY LANDS NEAR THE SEA-COAST.--VERA CRUZ.--ZOPILOTES AND -THEIR USES.--YELLOW FEVER; ITS SEASONS AND PECULIARITIES.--NORTHERS AND -THEIR BENEFITS. - - -[Illustration: THE "PORTALES," OR COVERED WALKS.] - -The plateau terminates suddenly at Boca del Monte, and here begins the -descent of the _cumbres_. At Esperanza the train exchanged the ordinary -locomotive for a monster one of great power; it looked like two -locomotives placed end to end with a tender between them, and was -specially built to take the trains over the extraordinary grades on this -part of the road. High speed was out of the question, or at all events -dangerous, and in descending the slope the train moved not faster than -fifteen miles an hour. The schedule time of the ascent is twelve miles -an hour, and the Brobdingnagian locomotive is taxed to the utmost of its -ability. - -[Illustration: MAP OF RAILWAY BETWEEN CITY OF MEXICO AND VERA CRUZ.] - -Frank learned from one of the officials of the road that there are no -fewer than 148 bridges between Vera Cruz and Mexico, and on the branch -to Puebla. These bridges are of various lengths, the longest being the -Puente de Soledad, which measures 742 feet. The longest of the tunnels -is 350 feet, and there are fifteen tunnels in all. - -"Nowhere else in the world," wrote Frank, "have we seen finer -engineering work than on this railway. It reminded us of the railway -from Bombay to Poonah in India, the line from Colombo to Kandy in -Ceylon, and the Saint Gothard and Semmering railways in the Alps. We -looked down from dizzy heights where the train would have been ground to -atoms had it rolled from the track into the abysses below; we crept -along the edges of precipices, or in niches cut in perpendicular walls -of rock; we crossed deep chasms upon slender bridges; we darted into -tunnels in rapid succession, and swept around curves so sharp that it -seemed as though the brakeman on the rear of the train might have shaken -hands with the engine-driver. We looked into the beautiful Valley of -Maltrata, which lay spread far below us, a gem of floral and arboreal -beauty among the rugged hills; and we wound and turned among the -sinuosities of the track so that our locomotive faced to all points of -the compass a dozen times over in a single hour. In a direct distance of -two and a half miles, as the bird flies, the railway goes twenty miles; -looking down, we saw the track far beneath our level, and looking up we -could trace its zigzags along the slopes and precipices. It was the -railway passage of the Alps, the Caucasus, the Sierra Nevadas, the -Indian Ghauts, and the Blue Mountains of Australia all in one. - -[Illustration: DOUBLE-ENDER LOCOMOTIVE ON MEXICAN RAILWAY.] - -"We stopped a few minutes at the station of Maltrata, which is on an -artificial platform that was built up from the slope; it was originally -intended as a passing-point for the up and down trains, and for several -years after the completion of the line the daily trains each way met at -Maltrata. From this point onward the descent was as rapid as before; the -locomotive held the train back instead of pulling it, and the brakes -kept up a continual grinding against the wheels. We shuddered to think -what would have been the result if the brakes had given way and the -locomotive failed to restrain us. But in such an event our agony would -have been brief, as the whole business would have been ended in a few -minutes. They told us that once when a freight train was climbing the -mountain two of the rear wagons became detached and started down the -slope. Fortunately there was no one on these wagons to lose his life; -they jumped the track at one of the curves, and were dashed a thousand -feet or more down a steep hill-side into a rocky valley. - -"A little distance below Maltrata we skirted one side of the Barranca -del Infernillo, a great chasm which made our heads swim as we looked -into it. Twelve miles from Maltrata we reached Orizaba, where we had -arranged to spend a day, and therefore we left the train as it drew up -at the station. - -"We observed a change in the vegetation as we descended the slope; we -had left the _tierra fria_ behind us, and were now in the _tierra -templada_, or temperate region. The maguey and cactus gave way to darker -and richer verdure, which was certainly far more pleasing to the eye -than the scanty vegetation of the great plateau. Orizaba is 4000 feet -above sea-level, 181 miles from the capital of the republic, and -eighty-two from Vera Cruz. It has 20,000 inhabitants, and is a favorite -resort of the people of Vera Cruz in the hot and sickly season. - -"We expected to have a fine view of the peak of Orizaba from the town of -the same name; but in this we were disappointed, as there is no part of -the great volcano visible from here, except a thin strip of white over -the top of a nearer and lower mountain; even this strip cannot be seen -from all parts of the town, but only by climbing to the roof of the -hotel or the tower of one of the churches. - -"Doctor Bronson asked if we wished to ascend the peak of Orizaba; we -gave a prompt negative to his question, partly for the reason that his -plans would not permit us to stay here long enough, and partly because -the sensation was pretty well exhausted at Popocatepetl. The ascent is -quite as difficult as that of Old Popo; Orizaba is a beautiful peak, -shaped like a sugar-loaf, and wearing constantly a mantle of purest snow -upon its regular and beautiful cone. According to Humboldt, it is 17,378 -feet high; a party of American officers ascended it in 1848; three years -later a Frenchman named Doignon followed their example, and found the -flagstaff they left there, with the torn fragments of the American flag -which marked their visit. - -"There was a town here at the time of the Conquest, and Cortez left a -small garrison to hold it when he pushed on to Mexico. It has an -agreeable climate, the frequent rains and the mists from the Gulf -keeping it well moistened, so that the trees, plants, and green things -generally are in a high state of luxuriance. Coffee and tobacco are -grown here in large quantities. The town has quite a manufacturing -industry, and contains the repair and construction shops of the railway -company. We greatly enjoyed a stroll through the streets, which seemed -rather dull and sleepy after those of the capital. Most of the houses -are covered with red tiles, which give the city a very picturesque -appearance when it is looked upon from the heights surrounding it. Like -all old towns of Mexico, it has an abundant supply of churches, and the -inhabitants are mostly of the Catholic faith. Not many years ago it was -unsafe for a Protestant woman to appear on the streets wearing a hat or -bonnet of foreign make; she was liable to be pelted with mud and stones, -and her life was by no means out of danger. A milder feeling prevails at -present, and the old bigotry is steadily passing away. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF ORIZABA.] - -"We made a pleasant excursion in the environs of the city, which are -very attractive, owing to the luxuriance of the vegetation. Fields of -coffee, tobacco, sugar-cane, oranges, and bananas alternate with each -other and show the mildness of the climate of Orizaba; some of the -plantations are of great extent, and we received many invitations to -make a leisurely visit and spend whatever time we liked in their -examination. - -"One of the sights of the place which we were told not to omit were the -falls of the Rincon Grande, about three miles from the city. We did not -omit the falls, and will always hold them in pleasant recollection. The -Rio de Agua Blanco, which supplied the water for the falls, is a deep -and swift stream coming from the mountains to the eastward of Orizaba. -Much of its course is through a deep cañon; but where the falls begin, a -part of the river flows along the surface of the mesa which forms one -side of the ravine, and breaks over the side to join the main stream -below. - -"The fall is perhaps fifty feet from top to bottom, and a cloud of mist -rises like that from Niagara or Montmorency. Both sides of the fall are -bordered with a luxuriance of tropical verdure, rendered especially -luxuriant by the moisture from the plunging waters. The trees are -covered with bunches of Spanish moss, some of them several feet in -length, and by numerous parasitical plants, nearly all gaudy with -flowers. Some of the trees are so completely in the grasp of the -parasites that hardly anything of the original trunk or limbs can be -seen. They showed us one tree that had been killed by the parasites; the -wood had decayed and crumbled, and the vines were so thick where it had -stood that they remained erect as though unaware that their former -support had passed away. - -"We saw the falls from above and also from below; and while both views -were interesting, each had an especial beauty of its own. The shrubbery -was so dense that we could walk only in the paths that had been cut for -the purpose; and the growth of vegetation is so rapid that these paths -require to be trimmed out several times a year. There is no possibility -of straying from the path, for the simple reason that it is impossible -to proceed in the dense undergrowth except by the aid of a _machete_. -Though at an elevation of 4000 feet above the sea, Orizaba has a -tropical climate; its location places it in the _tierra templada_, but -its temperature and characteristics would seem to include it in the -_tierra caliente_. And not only its temperature but its mosquitoes give -it a tropical character, as they are of the kind with which the -traveller in equatorial regions has a disagreeable familiarity. - -[Illustration: THE RIVER AT ORIZABA.] - -"There's a pretty river flowing through Orizaba, and it is useful to the -inhabitants in many ways. When we saw it there was not much water in its -bed, but they tell us that at some periods it is a rushing torrent of -great force and volume. It turns several mills, and is the resort of the -women whose duty it is to cleanse the soiled linen of the rest of the -inhabitants. Laundry-work here is about as it is in the rest of Mexico, -and the rough handling of shirts and other garments by the lavanderas -converts them into rags in a very short time. This is good for the -cotton-factories of Orizaba, which turn out a fair quality of goods, but -are said to be unprofitable for their owners. We have better reports of -the flouring-mills here, and also of a paper-mill which was established -by an American several years ago. As the Mexicans become better educated -the demand for paper is likely to increase; at present it does not take -a large number of mills to supply their wants in this respect. - -[Illustration: HILL OF EL BORREGO.] - -"The people of this city are less eager to point out the hill of El -Borrego than are the Pueblans to indicate the scene of the battle of -_Cinco de Mayo_. The latter was a Mexican victory, while the battle of -Borrego was a disastrous defeat. Four or five thousand Mexicans were -surprised and put to flight by a few hundred French troops. The French -say there were not over one hundred in the attacking party. It was a -night surprise, and the French had all the advantages of a nocturnal -assault. In justice to the Mexicans it should be added that the -assailants were old soldiers, while the surprised army was composed of -raw recruits, who are proverbially easy to throw into a panic, -especially in the darkness. The same troops made a good record for -themselves later in the war." - -From Orizaba our friends continued their railway journey into the -_tierra caliente_, passing Fortin and Cordoba, the latter the centre of -a coffee-growing district of considerable importance. A German gentleman -who had a coffee estate near Cordoba was in the carriage with Doctor -Bronson and the youths, and gave them some account of the industry; -Fred made notes of his remarks, and afterwards wrote them out in full, -with the following result: - -"Cordoba is less important now than it has been, owing to the decline in -the prices of sugar and coffee; it was founded in the early part of the -seventeenth century, and for a long time its industries were the growing -of sugar-cane and tobacco. Coffee is a comparatively recent -introduction; we produce annually in the Cordoba district about -10,000,000 pounds of coffee, and five times as much tobacco, and our -coffee and tobacco have a high reputation in the market. Coffee grows in -the lower regions of Mexico, and up to elevations of four, or even five, -thousand feet; the best site for a plantation is about 3000 feet above -sea-level; but it must be remembered that the coffee-tree requires a -great deal of moisture, and unless a region is warm and wet it will not -answer for a successful experiment." - -[Illustration: ORANGE GROVE IN CORDOBA.] - -Frank asked how soon after a plantation was started the trees would -begin to bear. - -The gentleman replied that he had seen coffee-trees bearing two years -after they were planted, and it was very common to gather fair crops -from trees three years old. But they could not be relied upon for a -profitable yield until they were four or five years old, and they -continue to bear for twenty years. When a plantation is five years old -it does not cost much to keep it up, but before that time it is a heavy -outlay, with little or slight return. - -[Illustration: COFFEE-DRYING.] - -"You may grow tobacco or bananas between the young coffee-trees when you -set them out," he continued, "and the profit from these products will -cover a part of your expenses. In fact you should set out enough bananas -or plantains to shelter the young plants, which are liable to be injured -by the sun and rain and wind in their infancy. The coffee-tree would -grow to a height of twenty or twenty-five feet if we permitted it to do -so; we cut it off about six feet from the ground, and thus force the -vigor into the branches; we want it low enough to pick from without too -much reaching or climbing, and this would not be the case if we allowed -the tree to run up as it would naturally." - -Then he gave the youths an account of the harvesting of the crop, and -its preparation for market, but as this has already been described -elsewhere[5] Fred did not make a record of it. The culture of coffee is -pretty nearly the same all the world over wherever the plant is grown. - -[5] See "The Boy Travellers in Ceylon and India," chap. xix. - -The conversation with the coffee-grower had not prevented our friends -from observing the scenery which lies between Orizaba and Cordoba along -the line of the railway. They were especially impressed with the -engineering which was required for crossing the barranca of Metlac; this -barranca is about 200 feet deep, by twice that width, and the first -thought of the engineers was to throw a bridge directly across it. A -bridge of a single span of 400 feet would be very costly, and piers 200 -feet in height to support a lighter structure could not be built without -great expense. Consequently the plan was adopted of descending to where -the barranca is less wide and high before attempting to span it. - -"The bridge," wrote Frank, "is on eight piers of iron, resting on -masonry, and it curves in its course from one side of the barranca to -the other on a radius of 325 feet. It is 400 feet long and 92 feet high; -the railway is cut into the slope of the barranca on each side, and as -it nears the bridge it enters a tunnel that curves so as to give the -necessary approach. The incline of the railway on each side of the -barranca is about three feet in a hundred, and for quite a distance the -opposite tracks are almost parallel to each other. The sides of the -barranca are covered with a dense growth of tropical trees and -underbrush, and the picture it presents is very attractive to the -traveller, however disheartening it may have been to the men who planned -the railway. Many a railway engineer in Mexico has regretted that -barrancas were ever invented, and, on the other hand, has congratulated -himself that their number is no larger than it is." - -[Illustration: BRIDGE OF ATTOYAC.] - -From Cordoba to Paso del Macho the fine scenery continued, the train -winding among hills and mountains, disappearing into tunnels, crossing -deep valleys upon graceful bridges, and steadily unfolding a panorama of -great beauty. Frank made note of the bridge of Attoyac, 330 feet long; -the Chiquihuite bridge, 220 feet long; and that of San Alego, three -miles before reaching Paso del Macho, which is 318 feet long. In twenty -miles there was a descent of 1200 feet, and the scenery steadily assumed -more and more a tropical aspect. - -But beyond Paso del Macho the country changed again and grew sterile, as -though they were once more in the region of the _tierra fria_. - -"How is this?" queried Fred. "Here we are coming all the time nearer the -sea both in elevation and distance; I thought we should have it a -perfect forest of tropical growths all the way to Vera Cruz." - -[Illustration: IN TIERRA CALIENTE.] - -"Those who have studied the subject," answered the Doctor, "say that -this strip of land along the coast is not touched by the moist vapors -which blow inland from the sea. They are attracted by the mountains and -highlands, and blow over this region to shed their moisture at a greater -elevation." - -Evidently the youths were disappointed, but they consoled themselves -with the reflection that they were not intending to settle in the -country, and therefore it didn't matter much to them what it was. Paso -del Macho is about 1500 feet above sea-level, and forty-seven miles from -Vera Cruz. The slope of the land from here onward is regular, and no -unusual engineering skill was required for the construction of the -railway. Fred noted the names of four stations, Camaron, Soledad, Purga, -and Tejeria, before they reached Vera Cruz; but there was nothing -attractive about any of those places to render them worthy of further -record. Historically, Soledad is memorable as the scene of the -convention between generals Prim and Doblado in 1862, which led to the -occupation of the country by the French troops and the invitation to -Maximilian to become Emperor of Mexico. Fred asked if there was any -monument at Soledad to commemorate the event, and was not at all -surprised at receiving a negative answer. - -[Illustration: VERA CRUZ, LOOKING SEAWARD.] - -Night had fallen when they rolled into the station at Vera Cruz. Fred -watched for the fortifications, of which he had read so much, and was -disappointed to learn that they had followed the fate of the walls of -most European cities and been levelled out of existence. Modern -artillery has rendered all defences of this kind of no value for -military purposes, and it is an act of common-sense to destroy them and -make practical use of the ground they occupy. - -The air was close and warm and offered no inducements for a stroll. By -the time our friends had located themselves at the Hotel de Diligencias, -which was said to be the principal one, and partaken of a not very -appetizing supper, they had more thoughts of bed than of anything else. - -Next morning the youths were out in good season for the local sights. -The first objects of interest were the _zopilotes_, or vultures, that -act as a street-cleaning bureau, in taking possession of everything -edible (from their point of view) in the refuse of the streets. Frank -and Fred had seen these birds before on many occasions, but never in -such numbers; they are analogous to the turkey-buzzards of the Southern -States of North America, and are said to be scientifically of the genus -_Cathartes_. They roosted on the house-tops, and walked through the -streets, constantly on the lookout for something in their line. They are -protected by law, and are faithful scavengers, working without pay other -than board and lodging. They lodge in the open air, and board upon what -no other living creature would eat, so that they are inexpensive -luxuries. They have never been charged, like street-cleaning bureaus -elsewhere, with obtaining money under fraudulent contracts. - -"The streets were quiet," wrote Fred, "and we were not surprised to -learn that the population of Vera Cruz is under 20,000 and not -particularly prosperous, although for a long time nine-tenths of the -foreign commerce of the country passed through this port. Since the -railways from the United States were opened to the capital the trade of -the city has greatly declined. Most of the business is in the hands of -foreigners, so that the chief connection a Mexican has with it is to -handle the goods as they are transferred from ship to railway or -warehouse. The streets are straight and mostly narrow, and the open -drains require to be constantly flushed, to keep down the stenches and -unhealthy miasmas. In the sickly season the drains are nightly supplied -with disinfectants to keep off that dreaded scourge the _vomito_, or -yellow-fever. - -[Illustration: AFTER THE VOMITO.] - -"We had heard much of the unhealthiness of Vera Cruz, and particularly -of the vomito, which sometimes carries off hundreds of victims in a -single week, and makes the road to the cemetery the best travelled one -in the whole city. Forty or fifty deaths a day are by no means uncommon; -the old inhabitants do not seem to mind it, as they claim that a person -who has once had the fever is ever after safe from it. A few years ago -Dr. Trowbridge, the American Consul, was removed from the office which -he had held for twelve years; his successor arrived during the -prevalence of yellow-fever, and died on the thirteenth day of his -occupation of his new place. Dr. Trowbridge and his family had the fever -lightly when they first arrived, and never afterwards suffered from it. - -"They tell us that yellow-fever is most dangerous in summer months, and -least so in the winter. It is not advisable for a stranger to come here -in the sickly season, and so well is this recognized that the betting -men of Vera Cruz are said to make wagers as to the probable length of -life of a visitor from Europe or North America when the vomito is -prevalent. A Yankee whom we met up-country says that when he came to -Vera Cruz a polite individual called upon him at the hotel and solicited -his patronage, 'which he was sure to need.' He did not feel very -comfortable on learning that the polite man was an undertaker, and fled -from the city by first train. It used to be said that a life insurance -policy was vitiated if the holder remained more than twenty-four hours -at Vera Cruz. - -"Yellow-fever is as dangerous for the Mexican from the table-lands as it -is to the North American, and some authorities say that the stranger -from over the sea is less liable to it than the Mexican from the _tierra -fria_. It begins in May, is worst in August and September, and then -declines to December, when it practically disappears under the influence -of the strong 'northers' that blow during the autumn equinox. Were it -not for these northers Vera Cruz would be altogether too unhealthy for -human habitation." - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - -THE ALAMEDA OF VERA CRUZ.--TROPICAL GROWTHS.--THE _PALO DE LECHE_ AND -ITS PECULIARITIES.--A DANGEROUS PLANT.--FOUNTAINS AND -WATER-CARRIERS.--GOVERNOR'S PALACE.--BRIEF HISTORY OF VERA -CRUZ.--PILLAGED BY PIRATES AND CAPTURED IN WARS.--FORTRESS OF SAN JUAN -DE ULLOA.--HORRORS OF A MEXICAN PRISON.--EXCURSION TO JALAPA.--THE -NATIONAL BRIDGE.--CERRO GORDO.--GENERAL SCOTT'S VICTORY.--JALAPA.--A -CITY OF MISTS.--STAPLE PRODUCTS OF THE REGION.--JALAP AND ITS -QUALITIES.--PRETTY WOMEN.--PECULIARITIES OF THE STREETS.--ORIZABA AND -PEROTE.--NEW RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.--TAMPICO AND ANTON LIZARDO.--DELAYED -BY A NORTHER.--DEPARTURE BY STEAMER.--FAREWELL TO VERA CRUZ. - - -The walk of our young friends took them to the Alameda, which proved -unusually attractive, as it was filled with tropical plants and trees to -which their eyes had not been accustomed in the upland region. They -welcomed the palm-trees as old friends; the palm does not flourish in -Mexico at a greater elevation than 1500 feet above the level of the sea -excepting under peculiarly favorable circumstances. The palms of Vera -Cruz are finely developed, but they do not attain the size of those at -Medellin, twelve miles down the coast. Medellin is a summer resort of -the Veracruzanos; they go there for recreation during the hot season, or -at least such of them as cannot afford the longer journey to Orizaba and -the mountain regions. - -Many of the trees and bushes in the Alameda were bright with flowers. As -if there were not enough floral products growing in sight, several -flower-sellers came around with their wares, which they persistently -offered to the visitors. Frank asked for the _palo de leche_, but the -flower-sellers did not have it, though one enterprising dealer -endeavored to substitute a common blossom in its place, with the gravest -assurance that it was the article sought. - -"I haven't heard of that flower before," said Fred. "Why were you asking -for it?" - -"I read about it last night," was the reply, "and had a curiosity to see -what it was like." - -"Well, what did you read that was interesting?" - -"The description said that the term _palo de leche_ means simply 'milky -plant,' and is applied to several plants from whose stems a milky -substance exudes. We have the same kind of plant in the North, such as -the milk-weed and its kindred. There are many varieties of the palo de -leche in Mexico, and they belong to the family of _Euphorbia_. - -"One kind is used by the Indians for fishing; they throw the leaves into -the water and the fishes are stupefied and rise to the surface, where -they are easily taken before the effect of the narcotic has passed away. -The same writer says that if the milk is thrown upon a fire it gives out -fumes which produce nausea and severe headaches that often last for -several hours. Taken internally, the milk of some of the Euphorbia is a -deadly poison; it will produce death or insanity, according to the size -and preparation of the dose or the condition of the person to whom it is -administered. There is a popular belief among the Mexicans that the -insanity of the ex-Empress Carlotta was caused by this poison. While -many deny this and point to the fact that she became insane after going -to Europe, they admit that the palo de leche is to be feared when in the -hands of unscrupulous persons. On the other hand, it is claimed that the -Indians can so prepare and use the poison as to regulate the time at -which it will cause death or insanity." - -"If that is the case," replied Fred, "it is no wonder that the -flower-sellers do not deal in what you wanted. Perhaps it would not be -altogether safe for a Mexican to ask for it, as he might be suspected of -evil designs and bring the police nearer than would be comfortable." - -The subject of palo de leche was dropped and the walk continued. - -[Illustration: A COFFEE-CARRIER.] - -At a fountain they saw quite a group of men and quadrupeds, and a glance -showed that the same system of water supply prevails here as in most -other cities of Mexico. Water is carried by the _aguadores_ either on -their own backs or on those of donkeys. An aguador who possesses a -donkey is an aristocrat in his line of business, and looks down upon the -poor wretch who is obliged to be his own beast of burden. The mule and -donkey are important animals at Vera Cruz, and a good part of the -carrying business is in their hands--or on their backs. - -[Illustration: FOUNTAIN AT VERA CRUZ.] - -Frank and Fred paused to look at the Governor's Palace, an imposing -edifice of two stories with a high tower at one corner. There are wide -balconies on each of the stories, where the occupants can sit in the -shade and enjoy the cool breeze whenever it happens to blow. A drawback -to sitting there is the presence of the mosquitoes, which fill all the -space not taken up by the Governor and his household. Not only do the -inhabitants of Vera Cruz maintain a constant warfare with mosquitoes, -but they associate intimately with fleas, ticks, and other bodily -annoyances. Official station offers no exemption; the insect pests are -indiscriminate in their attentions, and light on the brow of the -Governor or the general in command of the post just as readily as on -that of the humblest peon. If there is any difference it is in favor of -the peon, as his tougher skin renders him less inviting to the -diminutive assailants. - -[Illustration: THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE.] - -"Vera Cruz has had an interesting history," wrote Fred in his journal. -"It was founded by Cortez in 1519, who gave it the name of Villa Rica de -la Vera Cruz (the rich city of the true cross). The original site was a -little north of the present one, and altogether the location of the -city has been changed three times. The last change occurred in the year -1600, and brought it to where the first buildings were erected by the -Spaniards before Cortez made the formal location of what he intended as -the maritime metropolis of the New World. - -"The city has suffered in a great many ways. Leaving out the annual -visitation of yellow-fever, which we have already mentioned, it has had -occasion to mourn the advent of buccaneers, pirates, hostile fleets and -armies, and occasional conflagrations and hurricanes. In 1568, and again -in 1683, it was sacked by pirates, and many of its inhabitants were -killed. In 1618 it was nearly burned to the ground by a fire that broke -out during a northerly gale. In 1822 and 1823 it was bombarded by the -Spaniards, who held the Castle of San Juan de Ulloa, on the island -opposite the city, in the struggle of the Mexicans for independence. In -1838 it was bombarded by the French, and nine years later by the -Americans. The latter captured it by coming ashore on the beach some -distance below the city and attacking it from the land side, so that the -surrender was rendered imperative. Some of the Mexicans complained that -General Scott did not 'fight fair,' as he made his attack where they -were least prepared for defence. Evidently they expected him to march -up to the muzzles of their guns instead of going around to the -undefended rear of the city as he did. - -"The shipping in the harbor was destroyed by a hurricane in 1856, and it -has suffered serious damage in other years. President Juarez was -besieged here in 1859 by General Miramon; two years later the city was -taken by the French and Imperialists, and remained in their hands until -1867, when the death of Maximilian and the collapse of the Empire -restored it to Mexican possession." - -[Illustration: ON THE WAY TO THE FORT.] - -After breakfast the party arranged to visit the fortress which stands on -the island of San Juan, already mentioned. At the mole, or pier, the -only one of which Vera Cruz can boast, they hired a boat in which they -were rowed to the fort; the distance is nearly a mile, and our friends -were easily able to understand the unsafe character of the harbor of -Vera Cruz. It is little better than an open roadstead; when high winds -prevail landing from or embarking upon a steamer is impossible, and -during heavy northers steamers sometimes put to sea for safety. There -are no docks where vessels can lie; everything must be discharged or -received by boats or lighters, and the uncertainties of the weather make -the time of a steamer's departure very uncertain. The dangerous -character of the harbor is said to cause the insurance companies to -increase their rates when Vera Cruz is given as a vessel's destination. - -"The fort is a grim-looking place," said Frank; "its walls are thick -enough to justify the belief of its builders that it was impregnable. -Whatever it may have been in ancient times, it is not of much -consequence at present, and short work would be made of it by modern -artillery. No attempt is made to keep it in condition to resist a -determined attack, all the cannon which it possesses being of ancient -date; many of these cannon would be quite as dangerous to the garrison -as to the enemy in case they were discharged. The story goes that it -cost so much to build the fort that the King of Spain once called for a -telescope, and pointed it at the west. - -"'For what is your Majesty looking?' inquired one of his officers of -state. - -"'I am looking for San Juan de Ulloa,' he answered; 'I have spent so -much money on it that I ought to see the fort standing out on the -western sky.' - -"Our guide pointed out some great rings of copper that were built into -the wall of the fortress on the face next to the city. These rings were -intended for ships to tie to under protection of the guns, but in the -past two hundred years the water has become so shoal that only a small -boat can come near enough to make any use of the fastenings. There are -large court-yards inside the fort, where a whole regiment could parade, -and the casemates are sufficiently capacious to hold a garrison six -times as large as the Government keeps here. Parts of the walls are -broken down, and no effort is made to keep them in repair. The chief use -of the once celebrated fort is as a prison; they told us that about -sixty or seventy prisoners were kept there, some of them being sentenced -for life. We looked into some of the vacant dungeons, and thought them -the most horrible places of imprisonment we had ever seen. They are -badly ventilated, very little light can enter them, and the walls are -damp and almost dripping with moisture. Escape is out of the question, -as the water around the island swarms with sharks, and a prisoner who -should attempt to get away by swimming to the shore would be eaten by -these monsters of the sea." - -An excursion of a pleasanter character was made to the city of Jalapa -(ha-_la_-pa--_a_ as in father); it should be called a journey rather -than an excursion, as it consumed no less than three days. Jalapa is -seventy-four miles from Vera Cruz and 4000 feet above the sea, and one -of the prettiest places in Mexico. Our friends were obliged to rise at a -very early hour, as the train starts at 5 A.M.; they went by steam for -sixteen miles to Tejeria, and there changed to a tram-car, drawn by -mules, for a ride of sixty miles. The old diligence-road between Vera -Cruz and the capital passes through Jalapa, but it is not much used -since the completion of the railway. - -[Illustration: THE NATIONAL BRIDGE.--ROBBING A COACH.] - -General Scott marched by that road, and the youths were on the watch for -_El Puente Nacional_, or the National Bridge, where he was sharply -resisted by the Mexican army. It is thirty-five miles from Vera Cruz, -and is an immense viaduct, built in the early part of the present -century, when the road to the capital was begun. In the happy days of -brigandage it was the favorite spot for stopping coaches and plundering -passengers; many a traveller has given up his valuables at this spot, -under the potent influence of a pistol in the hands of a Mexican -"road-agent." - -"Sixty miles by mule-power was a long distance," said Fred, "and we -wondered how it was to be accomplished. The mules went along at a good -pace, considering that it was an ascending grade; they were urged by the -whip in the hands of the driver, and he was certainly not a merciful -one, perhaps for the reason that the mules belonged to the railway -company and not to himself. Part of our ride was through a comparatively -desert region, and we rejoiced that it was early in the morning while -the sun was not high and hot. The train was composed of three cars; each -car had four mules for its motive power, and the vehicles were divided -into first, second, and third class. First class fare is $6.63; second -class, $4.08; and third class not far from $2.00. My memorandum for -third class is so blurred that I cannot make the figures out to a -certainty. The mules were changed every two hours, and seemed very well -satisfied when their terms of service were ended. - -[Illustration: SKETCHED AT RINCONADA.] - -"We stopped at Rinconada, where we breakfasted, and changed mules for -the second time, the first change having been made at the National -Bridge. The second station from Rinconada was Cerro Gordo, where General -Scott defeated the Mexicans in 1847. It is a narrow pass bordered by -high hills, and connects the lowlands of the coast with the regions of -the _tierra templada_. How an army could get through the pass in the -face of anything like determined and intelligent opposition by a force -superior in numbers, it is difficult to understand. An English writer -who has visited the spot says of it as follows: 'That 10,000 Americans -should have been able to get through the mountain passes, and to reach -the capital at all, is an astonishing thing; and after that, their -successes in the Valley of Mexico follow as a matter of course. They -could never have crossed the mountains but for a combination of -circumstances.' - -"After passing Cerro Gordo, in which we had no such difficulties as -beset General Scott, we found ourselves in a less tropical region than -the one behind us. Cornfields were numerous, and so were fields of -barley; that we had not left the region of warmth altogether was evident -by the sugar-cane and the coffee-trees that abounded in many places. -They continued up to and into Jalapa, whither our mules went at a -gallop, and came to a halt about half-past four in the afternoon. Twelve -hours for a journey of seventy-four miles, up a slope of 4000 feet, and -sixty miles of the distance by mule-power, isn't so bad after all. - -[Illustration: PART OF JALAPA.] - -"There was a drawback to the interest of the scene in the shape of a -cloud of mist in which we were enveloped as we entered the city; but the -wind swept it away and we had some beautiful views; then it came on -again, to our aggravation, and in fact it kept up a sort of peep-show -performance all the time we were there. They told us that a good deal of -rain falls at Jalapa, and when there is no rain there is generally a -mist of more or less density. We were reminded of Ireland and Scotland, -and in more ways than one; the mists that obstruct the view are the -glory of Jalapa in keeping everything green, even to our memory of it. -It does not rain, nor is the sky obscured all the time, else there would -be no ripening of fruit in the gardens; and the gardens of Jalapa are -among the finest in the world. - -"The great staple of Jalapa is coffee, but there is a large product of -sugar; and as for plantains, bananas, mangoes, and similar fruits, they -are to be had in abundance and for little more than the asking. We -looked for that old-fashioned drastic medicine, jalap, which takes its -name from the city, but were told it is no longer exclusively produced -here. Doctor Bronson says the drug was introduced into England from -Mexico in 1609, and was in use for 200 years before the plant from which -it came was known. It belongs to the same family as the 'four-o'-clock' -of our gardens, and grows wild in the mountains in the neighborhood of -Jalapa. As this city was then the centre of commerce in this article, -the name adhered to it, just as the name of Calicut adhered to the cloth -called calico, which originally came from that town of India. - -"Another staple for which Jalapa is famous is pretty women; but so far -as we have been able to observe, it has no monopoly of them against the -other cities of Mexico. They have been praised by many travellers, and -there is a Mexican saying that '_Las Jalapeños son muy halagüeñas_' -('the women of Jalapa are very charming.') We have seen many pretty -faces, and if the weather had been uninterruptedly fine perhaps we could -have seen more. - -[Illustration: A NARROW STREET.] - -"The streets resemble those of Spain more than do any we saw in Mexico, -Puebla, or Vera Cruz; they are narrow, crooked, and irregular, and -separating solid old buildings with thick walls and heavily grated -windows. The city has about 15,000 inhabitants, and there is said to -have been an Indian town here at the time of Cortez's arrival. The -houses cling to the hill-side as though afraid of falling off, and there -is a good deal of uphill and down-hill in a walk through the streets; in -fact it seems to be uphill no matter which way you go. An excellent -feature about the streets is their cleanliness. - -"Another vegetable product of the region around Jalapa is the vanilla, -which was cultivated here long before the Conquest. The Indians had -practically a monopoly of it at one time, but its cultivation has spread -to other parts of Mexico and Central America, and also to distant -countries. The best quality still comes from this part of Mexico, and -the Indians show great skill in harvesting and curing the pods. The -drying of the pods takes a long time, and if any mistake is made in the -process, it greatly injures the value of the product. - -"We had a fine view of the peak of Orizaba and the famous mountain of -Perote, which, from its shape, is known as the _cofre_, or casket. At -the base of this mountain is the town of Perote, which was famous during -the Mexican War as the place where some Americans were imprisoned. -Doctor Bronson says there was a novel of that time called 'The Prisoner -of Perote,' which had a very large circulation. - -"Downhill is easier than uphill all the world over, and nowhere more so -than on a tram-way. We started from Jalapa at seven in the morning, and -went flying down the road, turning curves at a gallop, dashing on as -though pursued by a Nemesis or a pack of wolves, and raising clouds of -dust wherever the roads were dry. Our hair stood on end half the -time--figuratively at least; and I wished the mules could have told us -what they thought of such recklessness. We breakfasted again at -Rinconada, and at a little past four in the afternoon rolled into Vera -Cruz." - -Jalapa is to be connected with Puebla and the city of Mexico by the -Interoceanic Railway, perhaps before these words appear in print, as a -part of the line is already built and work is being pushed on the -remainder. As has been shown on previous pages, it is the intention to -carry the railway through to the Pacific Ocean by making use of the line -already completed from the capital to Morelos and Yautepec. Another -Pacific line has been surveyed from Puebla through the State of Oajaca, -and a part of the road has been built. - -On their return trip from Jalapa to Vera Cruz our friends made the -acquaintance of a railway engineer who had been at work upon the line -from Tampico westward. He was enthusiastic about the future of Tampico, -and predicted that when the railway had formed its connection with the -National and Central lines Vera Cruz would be "out in the cold," as he -expressed it. "Tampico has," said he, "a harbor that can be greatly -improved by dredging away a part of the bar, which is now dangerous; the -town is five miles up a river, and affords the shelter which a ship -cannot find at Vera Cruz. With the dredging I mentioned, the port can be -used by the same class of vessels that now go to Vera Cruz. Tampico will -get all the business when the railway is completed and the line opened -to the capital." - -[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF A CHURCH.] - -Filled with the idea of the importance of Tampico and the ruin that -awaited Vera Cruz, before leaving the latter city Frank had a -conversation with an advocate of another port of future importance. The -new claimant for commercial favors was Anton Lizardo, which lies some -distance down the coast and was selected as the starting-point of the -Mexican Southern Railway. It is claimed to be in a healthy locality, and -to have a fairly good harbor capable of improvement by the use of the -dredge and the construction of piers at which vessels may lie. General -Grant was the President of the Mexican Southern Railway, and since his -death the enterprise has languished, and our friends were unable to -learn that it showed any positive signs of activity. - -It was Doctor Bronson's intention to leave Vera Cruz on the day -following their return from Jalapa, but his plans were rudely upset by a -norther, which set in furiously and for two days cut off all -communication with the ships in harbor or out of it. Frank and Fred -climbed to the top of the highest tower they could find, and watched the -waves breaking on the walls, and also on the long line of beach north -and south of the city. At times the island of San Juan de Ulloa seemed -to be half buried in the spray; the ships rose and fell unpleasantly as -they tugged at their anchors, and some of them took the course of -prudence and steamed away seaward. Two or three small craft were torn -from their moorings and driven ashore; that similar accidents may befall -larger vessels was painfully evidenced by an English steamer which lay -high and dry on the beach, where she had been wrecked in a norther a few -weeks before. - -But all things have an end, and so did the gale, which blew itself out -after cleansing the city of all miasmatic impurities, and rendering it -healthy for a while. The sea went down, and as soon as the steamer on -which they were to leave had completed her cargo and was ready for sea, -the travelling trio went on board. An hour later they were moving over -the dark waters of the Gulf of Mexico, with their faces turned in the -direction of the equator. - -[Illustration: A TOURIST.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - -THE COATZACOALCOS RIVER.--ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC.--TEHUANTEPEC RAILWAY -AND SHIP-CANAL.--THE EADS SHIP-RAILWAY.--AN IDEA OF CORTEZ.--PLANS OF -CAPTAIN EADS.--A RAILWAY-CARRIAGE WITH 1200 WHEELS.--SHIPS CARRIED IN -TANKS.--ENGINEERING AND OTHER FEATURES OF THE SHIP-RAILWAY.--MAHOGANY -TRADE.--FIFTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS FOR THREE LOGS.--FRONTERA AND -TABASCO.--RUINS OF PALENQUE.--LORILLARD CITY.--EXPLORATIONS BY STEPHENS -AND CHARNAY.--PALACE OF PALENQUE.--TEMPLE OF THE CROSS.--TEMPLE OF -LORILLARD.--REMARKABLE IDOL.--A REGION ABOUNDING IN RUINS.--REMAINS OF -MITLA.--PILLAR OF DEATH. - - -The steamer on which our friends were embarked was a small one engaged -in the coasting trade. She drew less than twelve feet of water, and was -therefore able to enter the shallow harbors of some of the Mexican and -Central American ports where large vessels cannot go. On the morning -after leaving Vera Cruz she was off the mouth of the Coatzacoalcos -River, and a little after sunrise she crossed the bar and steamed slowly -against the current of that tropical stream. - -[Illustration: ON THE RIVER'S BANK.] - -Dense forests, broken here and there by clearings, covered the banks of -the river, and reminded our young friends of the Menam River, in Siam, -or the Me-Kong, in Cambodia. Thirty miles from the mouth of the river -brought them to Minatitlan, a tumble-down village or town with a few -hundred inhabitants, who are chiefly engaged in doing nothing, if one is -to judge by appearances. The business of Minatitlan is not large, and is -chiefly connected with trade in mahogany and other tropical woods. - -The river and the town have an international importance, as they are on -the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, which has long been under consideration as -the route for a canal to connect the Atlantic with the Pacific. The -width of the isthmus from ocean to ocean is 143 miles, but by making use -of the rivers on either side the length of a canal would be little, if -any, more than 100 miles. The route has been surveyed at different -times, notably in 1870, by Captain Shufeldt of the United States Navy, -who declared that there was no insurmountable obstacle to the -construction of a ship-canal. - -Recently the Mexican Government has given to an English company a -concession for a railway across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. One of the -surveyors of this company was a passenger on the steamer with our -friends, who fell into conversation with him during dinner, and learned -many things of interest. The engineer told them that work was to begin -immediately on the railway, and they hoped to have it completed by the -end of 1889. - -Doctor Bronson recalled the fact that in 1842 a concession was granted -to Don José de Garay for the Tehuantepec Railway, but nothing was -accomplished, for the simple reason that the money for the work could -not be obtained. As soon as the Garay concession fell through, the -United States Government offered $15,000,000 for the right of way across -the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, but the offer was declined. During the -California gold excitement a Tehuantepec transit line was established. -Steamers ran between the isthmus and San Francisco on the Pacific side, -and to New York and New Orleans on the Atlantic. Passengers were carried -across the neck of land in stage-coaches. The enterprise proved -unprofitable, and was abandoned after a few years. - -[Illustration: A STEAMSHIP ON A PLATFORM CAR.] - -What interested Frank and Fred more than anything else at this point was -the suggestion that huge ships might yet be transported across the -isthmus, not by canal but on a railway. Their new-found friend told them -about the project of Capt. James B. Eads, an enterprising American -engineer, and referred them for further information to an article in -_Harper's Magazine_ for November, 1881. With their usual good-fortune -they found a copy of the magazine in the hands of the purser of the -steamer. Aided by it and the points given them by the engineer, together -with some from Doctor Bronson, they wrote the following while the -steamer was continuing her voyage from Minatitlan. - -"Any one who thinks the idea of a ship-railway here is a new one is -grievously mistaken. It originated with no less a personage than the -conqueror Cortez, who visited the isthmus, examined the river -Coatzacoalcos, made soundings, and walked across from ocean to ocean, -with a view to establishing a portage by which ships could be carried -overland for the commerce between Spain and the far east of Asia. - -[Illustration: PLANE AND ELEVATION OF TERMINUS.] - -"Cortez reported favorably upon the enterprise, and suggested a broad -road carefully graded by which ships could be transported on rollers or -wheels from one ocean to the other. It must be remembered that the ships -of his day were much smaller than those of the present time, and their -transportation a hundred miles overland would not have been a very -difficult matter. - -[Illustration: TANK CARRIAGE.] - -"Somehow the Spanish Government did not favor the proposal sufficiently -to authorize the expenditure of the necessary cash. The matter slumbered -until 1814, nearly 300 years, when the Government consented to the -undertaking, but the revolution then going on prevented anything like -actual work on the road. The Garay Railway concession in 1842 was the -next project. Three canal concessions have since been made to Mexicans -and one to Americans; then came the concession to Captain Eads for a -ship-railway, and last of all is the concession already mentioned for an -ordinary railway to be built by an English company. - -"We will remark here that if concessions would build railways Mexico -would have been gridironed with them long before this. It is probable -that two or three hundred concessions have been granted in the last ten -years, and nine-tenths of them are not likely to go beyond the -'permission to build' which the concession grants. - -"The idea of Captain Eads was that wherever a canal can be built to -float a ship a railway may be built to carry one. His theory was laughed -at by a great many people, but has been accepted by eminent engineers -all over the world who have carefully studied his plans. Like every -novel scheme, it has met with much opposition, and many objections have -been made to it; but they are chiefly by men whose minds are not -scientific. It should be borne in mind that the steam-railway, the -steam-boat, the ocean steamship, the telegraph, in fact every great -enterprise of modern times, has encountered similar opposition, and in -some instances has had no support even from scientific minds. Doctor -Bronson says there is fair reason to believe that the ship-railway of -Captain Eads will be in operation before the end of the century, and -vessels of five or six thousand tons will safely pass over dry land from -one ocean to the other. - -[Illustration: SECTION OF PART OF CRADLE CARRIAGE. - -Scale 1 inch to the foot.] - -"Captain Eads proposed to build a line of twelve rails, with a grade of -not more than fifty feet to the mile at each end. The line descends into -the water, to enable ships to be placed in the cradles in which they are -to rest during the transit. The grade of one foot in a hundred, or -fifty-two and eight-tenths feet to the mile, would carry the line to a -depth of thirty feet in a length of 3000 feet. Here the ship, in a -landlocked basin, will be floated to a cradle and made fast. The cradle -and ship together will be hauled out by means of stationary engines on -land, just as ships are hauled upon marine-railways or dry-docks. - -"The cradle is an enormous platform car 300 feet long, or it may be a -tank of the same length in which a ship can float. In either case it -will be the width of twelve rails spaced to standard gauge (4 feet -8-1/2 inches), and will have 100 wheels on each rail, or 1200 wheels in -all. This will give a pressure of five tons to each wheel, supposing the -cradle to be carrying a ship of 4000 tons, which is no more than the -burden of the wheel of an ordinary freight car with its load. Thus is -answered the objection which has been made, and very naturally, about -the enormous pressure upon the cars and road-bed. Taking the area into -consideration, the pressure is no greater than that upon an ordinary -railway when a loaded train goes over it. - -"The cradle will be drawn along the railway by four locomotives, each of -them as powerful as five ordinary freight locomotives of the -Pennsylvania or other great railway company. Of course there can be no -curves on the railway, as the cradle can be no more flexible than the -ship. All bends on the line will be made at turn-tables; but the nature -of the country is such that only two of these, or possibly three, will -be needed." - -The youths paused at this point to look at the drawings which showed the -design for supporting the cradle on its carriage. Fred observed that the -axle of each wheel was independent, and that there was a pair of springs -above each and every wheel. He asked Doctor Bronson why it was so many -springs were needed, as it was evident that with twelve hundred wheels -there would be twenty-four hundred springs. - -"I suppose," was the reply, "that it is to facilitate the change of the -carriage from a level to a grade, or _vice versâ_. In going from an up -grade to a level there would be a greater pressure at the ends than in -the centre, and the same would be the case in going from a level to a -down grade. The springs are intended to regulate this; the railway is -intended to form an upward incline from each end towards the centre, -where there will be a level of several miles." - -Frank asked how fast the train, if train it could be called, was -expected to run in making the transit of the isthmus with a ship. - -"From eight to ten miles an hour," replied the Doctor. "Captain Eads -proposed not to keep a vessel more than twelve hours out of the water, -and he thought it quite likely the time might be reduced to ten hours." - -[Illustration] - -Then the youths looked at the map and studied out the course of the -proposed ship-railway. Frank slowly dictated while Fred jotted down the -names of the places mentioned. - -"The bar at the mouth of the river must be dredged out so as to admit -ships, which will then find plenty of water up to a point called Ceiba -Bonita, on the Uspanapan River, which runs into the Coatzacoalcos just -below Minatitlan. There the ship-railway will begin, and it runs in a -straight line to the mountains, where there is a depression only 650 -feet high. In fact there are two of these depressions, and either of -them may be taken. These are the passes of Chivela and Tarifa. By the -former the railway may run to the town of Tehuantepec, and there make a -bend by turn-table, and continue to the Pacific Ocean; and by the latter -pass it may go to Salinas Cruz, which lies on a lagoon, where a harbor -must be dredged out." - -"And how much will be the cost of this great work?" one of the youths -asked. - -"I believe the estimate is seventy-five millions of dollars," was the -reply, "including the construction of the railway and its equipment with -cradles, tanks, locomotives, and everything else needed for operating -the line. - -"The saving of distance," continued Doctor Bronson, "for a ship going by -the Isthmus of Tehuantepec instead of Cape Horn from New York to -Hong-Kong is 8245 miles, and from New Orleans to Hong-Kong 9900 miles. -The route from England to the ports of Eastern Asia and Australia is -also considerably shortened, and there can be little doubt that the -completion and successful operation of the ship-railway would be of -great advantage to the commerce of the world." - -[Illustration: MAHOGANY HUNTERS.] - -While at Minatitlan the youths saw a vessel loading with mahogany logs -for a port in Europe, and they naturally made inquiries about the wood -and where it was procured. They learned that it grew on marshy ground in -the valleys of rivers in Southern Mexico, Honduras, and Central America -generally, and also in the West India Islands, tropical South America, -and tropical Asia and Africa. - -"It is," said their informant, "the most valuable of all the tropical -trees, as you will see when I tell you the prices at which it is sold. -Logs fifteen feet long and thirty-eight inches square have been sold for -two or three thousand dollars each, and in one instance three logs from -one tree brought $15,000." - -Frank asked if that was the regular price for the timber or only an -exceptional one. - -"In these cases it was exceptional," was the reply, "the value depending -upon the peculiar 'curl,' or grain of the wood. But the work of getting -out the logs is so great that unless high prices were paid for all -mahogany the business would be abandoned. The mahogany-cutters search -through the forest for trees, and then they build roads, often for many -miles, to haul the logs to the banks of the rivers. The logs are usually -from ten to sixteen feet long and two to three feet square; the length -of the logs will depend upon that of the tree and the number of cuttings -that can be made to the best advantage. The largest log I ever heard of -was cut in Honduras; it was seventeen feet long, fifty-seven inches -broad, and sixty-four inches deep; it weighed more than fifteen tons, -and was cut into 5421 feet of inch plank. Reduced to veneering -one-sixteenth of an inch thick, it would have covered very nearly two -acres." - -Fred observed that the logs were square instead of round, and asked why -it was. - -"There are two reasons for it," was the reply. "The first object is to -reduce the weight as much as possible without injury to the wood, and -hence the workman 'square' the logs roughly as soon as they have been -divided into lengths. In the second place, the squaring makes them less -liable to roll while upon the rough carts by which they are brought -through the forests to the rivers, where they are floated down to the -places of shipment. The cutting and hauling are done in the dry season, -and the work is timed so that it will be completed when the rainy season -sets in. Then the rivers swell and the logs are floated; the system is -in many respects analogous to lumbering operations in Maine, Minnesota, -and other Northern States of America." - -After leaving the Coatzacoalcos River, the steamer headed for Frontera, -at the mouth of the river Tabasco, but she did not remain long enough -for our friends to go on shore, much to the disappointment of Frank and -Fred. They were consoled by a fellow-passenger, who told them that the -place was hot and unhealthy, and they would run the risk of taking the -fever by passing no more than a few hours on land. Another consideration -was that the anchorage was six miles from town, and the fare to the -shore was four dollars each way--at least that was what the boatmen -demanded. - -[Illustration: TRAVELLING IN TABASCO.] - -The Tabasco is a river of considerable size, and navigable for quite a -distance inland by small steamers. The capital of the State of Tabasco -is San Juan Bautista, about fifty miles from the mouth of the river. By -continuing up the stream the traveller can reach a point whence an -overland journey will bring him to the ruins of Palenque, one of the -archæological wonders of the western continent. - -"We didn't care much for the modern part of Tabasco," said Fred, "as it -would not have been much unlike what we have already seen, but we did -want ever and ever so much to go to Palenque. We have read the -descriptions of the ruins by Stephens, who visited them in 1839-40, and -by Charnay, who went there in 1882. Both gentlemen agree that they are -wonderful to look at, even from the point of view of an ordinary -traveller. - -[Illustration: PLAN OF PART OF THE PALACE AT PALENQUE.] - -"They tell us of a ruined palace 238 feet long by 180 deep, and standing -on a mound or platform of earth and stone forty feet high and measuring -about 100 feet each way more than the palace does. The palace was built -of stone laid in a mortar of lime and sand, and seems to have been -covered with stucco in various colors. There is a great quantity of -bass-reliefs and hieroglyphics; many of these have been injured by time -and the Indians, but on the other hand a great number are still -perfect. Nobody can yet tell the exact extent of the city as it was in -the time of its glory. A dense forest has grown over the spot, and it -would take an army of men to remove the huge trees and clear away the -ground. - -[Illustration: MEDALLION BASS-RELIEF.] - -"You may ask how old the city is and when it was abandoned. That, as -well as the city's extent, is a conundrum. Some writers think it was -inhabited as late as the time of the Conquest. This is the theory of M. -Charnay; and a traveller who preceded him in 1774 says he discovered -'eighteen palaces, twenty great buildings, and 167 houses in a single -week,' which is more than can be found by one person in the same time -nowadays. According to the account of the expedition of Cortez to -Honduras, he must have passed quite close to the site of Palenque, but -his faithful chronicler, Bernal Diaz, makes no mention of the city, nor -is it referred to in the conqueror's reports to the King. - -"M. Charnay made explorations through this region, and to the south-east -of Palenque he visited the ruins of another city; this he named in honor -of Mr. Pierre Lorillard, of New York, who had defrayed the expenses of -the expedition. He had hoped to be the first explorer of these ruins; -but on reaching the spot he found himself preceded by an enterprising -Englishman, Mr. Alfred Maudsley, of London. The latter generously -proposed that the Frenchman should name the town, call himself the -discoverer, in fact do anything he pleased, since he (Maudsley) was only -an amateur travelling for pleasure, and not for scientific purposes. -Charnay accepted the offer in so far as the naming of the place was -concerned, but he could hardly call himself the discoverer, as it had -been previously visited by residents of Tenosiqué, the nearest modern -town of any consequence, and one of them had described it in writing and -by drawings. - -[Illustration: IDOL IN TEMPLE AT LORILLARD CITY.] - -"One of the interesting objects found at Lorillard was an idol that has -a remarkable resemblance to the idols in the Buddhist temples of Asiatic -countries. It was in a temple that was greatly ruined. There are fifteen -or twenty temples and other buildings at Lorillard, and it is quite -possible that others may be found by a careful examination of the -forest. M. Charnay pronounced the idol one of the finest ever discovered -in tropical America. It represented a figure sitting in the attitude of -Buddha, with the hands resting on the knees; the head was surmounted by -an enormous head-dress intended to represent a cluster of feathers -surrounding and rising above a medallion and diadem. The garments worn -by the bust are a sort of cape covered with pearls and having a -medallion in front and on each side. There are heavy bracelets on the -arms, and there is a girdle around the waist with a medallion similar to -that which decorates the cape. - -"The sacred character of the statue or idol is indicated by the -circumstance that all around it, and in fact all through the temple, -were many bowls of coarse clay, which were used for burning incense. -Some of the bowls contained copal, which was the substance used for -incense, and the walls of the temples were black with the smoke from the -offerings. - -[Illustration: THE CROSS OF PALENQUE.] - -"A singular feature about these temples, and also those at Palenque, is -the presence of the cross among the bass-reliefs and hieroglyphics. This -circumstance has given rise to the supposition that the temples were -built long after the Conquest, and that the natives had been converted -to Christianity; but the most careful students of the subject say that -the cross was a symbol of the Toltecs long before Columbus or Cortez was -born. The famous sculpture at Palenque was in the temple of the same -name, and represents a Roman cross on the top of which a bird is -perched; a man at one side presents an offering to the bird, and the -spaces beneath the arms of the cross are covered with hieroglyphics that -have not been deciphered. - -"The whole sculpture on which this cross appears was upon three stones -placed side by side in the wall of the temple. One of them is still -there, the second is in the Smithsonian Institution at Washington, and -the third, which is the central one with the cross upon it, has been -taken to Las Playas, in the State of Tabasco. - -"The whole country is said to abound with ruins that have never been -seen by white men, and some of which are not even known to the Indians -of to-day. It is certain that this region once contained a dense and -highly civilized population, and the ruins that have been explored show -that they had a good knowledge of the principles of architecture and -sculpture. Exactly who they were has not been revealed, but explorers -and scientists are slowly penetrating the secret, and in course of time -the history of these primitive people will be given to the world. - -[Illustration: GRAND HALL AT MITLA.] - -"The cities at Palenque and Lorillard were of Toltec origin; the Toltecs -were in Mexico previous to the Aztecs, as we have already mentioned, and -it is fair to presume that these cities now in crumbling ruins were -older than the Tenochtitlan which Cortez captured from the Aztecs. In -the State of Oajaca are the ruins of Mitla, an Aztec city, and they are -extensive enough to show that a powerful people once lived there. - -"The ruins at Mitla are in two groups, each consisting of four -buildings fronting on a square like the plaza of modern times. There is -a hall with six columns of stone in the centre, each column being about -twelve feet high, and tapering towards the top like a slender -sugar-loaf. It is supposed to have formed a central support for the roof -that rested at its edges upon the walls, which are parallel to each -other. The walls are built of rough stones laid with cement, and they -seem to have been covered originally with stucco. - -[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF TEMPLE AT MITLA.] - -"On the outside the buildings at Mitla were built up with blocks of hewn -stone, and covered with a mosaic laid in stucco, and composed of stone -of different colors. The doors and windows are square, and have lintels -of hewn stone, and altogether the buildings had quite a resemblance to -those of the ancient Egyptians. - -"There is a tradition at Mitla that vast amounts of treasure are -concealed in the temples and surrounding grounds, and the earth has been -repeatedly dug over in the search for these things. Under one of the -temples is a chamber, in which there is an upright column of stone, -called the 'Pillar of Death.' The natives believe that any Indian who -clasps his arms around this pillar will die in a short time, but white -men are not in any such danger." - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - -"THE MYSTERIOUS CITY;" STORIES AND RUMORS CONCERNING IT.--ACCOUNTS OF -STEPHENS AND MORELET.--FATE OF TWO YOUNG AMERICANS.--DON PEDRO -VELASQUEZ.--CARMEN AND CAMPEACHY.--UNDERGROUND CAVES.--HOW LOGWOOD IS -GATHERED; ITS COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE.--THE QUEZAL AND ITS WONDERFUL -PLUMAGE.--SNAKES AND SNAKE STORIES.--TRAVELLERS' TALES.--PROGRESO AND -SISAL.--HOW THE YUCATAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.--_AGAVE SISALANA_.--DISCOVERY -AND CONQUEST OF YUCATAN.--A FEROCIOUS POPULATION.--REBELLIOUS INDIANS IN -YUCATAN; HOW THEY TREAT VISITORS.--TOWNS AND VILLAGES DEPOPULATED. - - -While considering the accounts of the ruins of ancient cities in Mexico -and the countries bordering it, our young friends came upon allusions to -a "mysterious city," somewhere in the unexplored region of tropical -forests lying to the southward. Their curiosity was excited, and they -wondered if such a city really existed. - -[Illustration: IN THE FOREST.] - -They found that two explorers, Stephens and Morelet, believed in its -existence, and though they tried hard to reach it were unable to do so. -Stephens learned of it from the _cura_ of Quiche, a native town of -Guatemala, who claimed to have looked upon the city from the wall of -rock surrounding the valley where it stands. He had heard of it many -years before at the village of Chajul. He was then young, and had -climbed to the top of the ridge which the Indians indicated, and from -his elevated stand-point looked down upon the plain and the white walls -and towers of the city glistening in the sun. It covered a large area, -and its people were advanced in the arts and capable of making a -vigorous defence against all intruders. - -[Illustration: JOHN L. STEPHENS.] - -"Wouldn't that be an expedition worth making?" said Frank to Fred, after -they had read the account in Mr. Stephens's book. "Just think of it! to -be able to discover the mysterious city which no white man has ever -returned from!" - -"Yes, that's the tradition concerning it," was the reply. "Several white -men have gone there, but no one has ever returned from it to tell the -story of what he saw." - -"Writers on the subject are not very encouraging," said Frank, "as they -assert that the Indians in this mysterious city murder every white man -who comes within their boundaries. Not even the Spanish _padres_ are -permitted to enter, and they are usually able to go where no other white -man dare try to penetrate." - -Frank read and reread all the attainable descriptions of the mysterious -city, and his imagination was fired almost to the degree of explosion. -"The inhabitants understand," he remarked, "that a white race has -conquered the rest of the country, but they are determined not to be -conquered. They have no coin or other circulating medium, no horses, -cattle, mules, or other domestic animals except fowls, and they keep -these underground so that the crowing of the cocks will not be heard." - -Probably Frank's belief was largely influenced by the circumstance that -such a careful explorer as Stephens accepted the story as true; in -speaking of it he uses these words: "I conceive it to be not impossible -that in this secluded region may exist, at this day, unknown to white -men, a living, aboriginal city, occupied by relics of the ancient race, -who still worship in the temples of their fathers." - -[Illustration: SEEKING THE MYSTERIOUS CITY.] - -In writing an introduction to the narrative of the travels of Arthur -Morelet, who spent several years in that country, and evidently believed -in the existence of the mysterious city, Mr. E. G. Squier says as -follows: - -"There is a region lying between Chiapas, Tabasco, Yucatan, and the -Republic of Guatemala, and comprising a considerable portion of each of -those States, which, if not entirely blank, is only conjecturally filled -up with mountains, lakes, and rivers. It is almost as unknown as the -interior of Africa itself.... Within its depths, far off on some unknown -tributary of the Usumasinta, the popular tradition of Guatemala and -Chiapas places the great aboriginal city, with its white walls shining -like silver in the sun, which the cura of Quiche affirmed he had seen -with his own eyes from the tops of the mountains of Quezaltenango." - -A Guatemalan gentleman, Don Pedro Velasquez, claims to have accompanied -two young gentlemen of Baltimore, who succeeded in reaching the -mysterious city a few years after the account of Stephens was published. -Having once reached the city they were not harmed; but when they -attempted to escape they were seized, and one of them was sacrificed on -the altar of the Sun, after the manner of the Aztec sacrifices already -described. The other made his escape, but was so badly wounded that he -died in the forest. Don Pedro and a few Indians who accompanied the -young gentlemen managed to get away with their lives, but only by -running great risks. The account he gives of their adventures is not -very clear, and it has not secured a prominent place in the history of -scientific explorations. - -A few years ago an enterprising American naturalist, Mr. F. A. Ober, was -on the borders of this unexplored region, and was greatly tempted to -venture alone in search of the mysterious city, and particularly to -learn about the fauna and flora that abound in its vicinity. It would -have been madness for him to have undertaken the journey, and he wisely -refrained from doing so; he is still of opinion that the examination of -this unknown and unconquered region offers a fine field for the -naturalist, and for societies engaged in promoting scientific -investigation. - -After mature deliberation Frank and Fred concluded that the exploration -of this unknown region was not practicable just at that time, but they -would keep it in mind, and perhaps might lead an expedition thither at -some future day. - -Doctor Bronson suggested that in the mean while they could amuse -themselves by reading "The Phantom City," a romance based upon the -stories told by Stephens and others. He thought that the romance might -contain hints which would be useful in case they should fit out their -expedition. "At all events," said he, "it is an interesting story, and -will well repay perusal." - -The steamer made a brief halt at Carmen, an insignificant town on an -island on the coast, and then proceeded to Campeachy, where she anchored -about five miles from shore. There was quite a ground-swell on the sea, -which would have made a journey to the shore somewhat uncomfortable, -with the possibility, in case the wind increased, of being detained -there until the next steamer happened along. So our friends concluded to -acquaint themselves with Campeachy by looking at it from the deck of -the vessel; all day they lay there, and long before the sun went down -the youths were impatient to be on their way. - -As they looked upon the white walls of the city glistening in the sun, -it was no great stretch of the imagination for them to believe they were -repeating the experience of the cura of Quiche, and gazing from the top -of the mountain chain which he claims to have ascended. They learned -that Campeachy was once of more importance than it is to-day; it has a -population of 20,000, and is built of a white limestone that is very -abundant in the neighborhood. Its houses are nearly all of but one story -in height, and the city is surrounded by walls which were built by the -Spaniards when they founded a settlement here. - -An interesting feature of Campeachy is the great number of subterranean -caves in the hills on which it stands, some of them natural and some -artificial. These caves were made by the Indians long ago; most of them -have been explored in search of treasure, of which very little was -obtained. Numerous skulls and skeletons were found there, and it is -evident that the caves were used as burial-places, and are much like the -catacombs of Oriental countries. A few of them have been utilized as -cellars by the inhabitants, but only a few; the Indians of to-day have a -good many superstitions concerning the caves, and look with an -unfriendly eye upon any one who desecrates them. - -[Illustration: CAMPEACHY TOBACCO.] - -A lighter came alongside with some cargo for the steamer, and Frank made -a note of what it brought. There were hides of cattle, deer-skins, sugar -in bags made of the _pita_ plant, bales of that textile product, -beeswax, and a considerable quantity of Campeachy cigars. The tobacco -grown in the States of Campeachy and Tabasco is of very good quality, -and the cigars are often sold for "Havanas" in foreign markets. - -Frank learned that logwood is an important article of trade on this part -of the coast, but it is mostly shipped on sailing-vessels, on account of -the lower charge for freight. Carmen has a considerable commerce in -logwood, which grows so extensively that there is no immediate danger of -the exhaustion of the supply, especially as its cultivation has extended -to other countries by planting the seed or transplanting the young -trees. - -"Logwood is used for dyeing purposes," wrote Frank, after he had -informed himself concerning it, "and also in medicine. There is a belief -that it is used by wine-makers in coloring claret quite as much as for -dyeing cloth or leather. The tree is usually about twenty-five feet high -and fifteen inches in diameter. Only the 'heart' of the trunk contains -the dyeing substance, and this is the part exported, the outer sap-wood -being cut off in the forest as soon as the tree is felled. The -logwood-cutters have a hard life, and their business is less profitable -of late years, owing to the extensive use of aniline dyes." - -[Illustration: THE QUEZAL.] - -A passenger who came on board the steamer at Campeachy had as part of -his baggage a cage containing a bird of remarkable plumage. It presented -a variety of colors--green, golden, red, and white--and its tail -feathers were so long that they seemed out of all proportion to the size -of the creature's body. Frank and Fred were immediately attracted to it, -and asked what it was. - -"It is a _quezal_, or _quetzal_," was the reply, "which was at one time -the sacred and imperial bird of Mexico. The one you see here is not a -fine specimen. Sometimes you find these birds with the tail feathers -four feet long; and in ancient times none but the emperors were -permitted to wear them. Perhaps you saw the feather cloak of Montezuma -in the museum at the capital? Well, the feathers that adorn that cloak -came from the quezal, and the bird is so rare that it takes a long time -to gather feathers enough to make a single garment. - -[Illustration: DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVEL IN CAMPEACHY.] - -"The quezal is still regarded with much respect by the Indians of this -part of the country and of Central America, but less so than in the days -of the Montezumas. As it darts through the forest its feathers flash -like a moving rainbow, and remind us of the accounts that Eastern -travellers have given of the bird-of-paradise. It is rarely taken alive, -and is so shy that the hunter can only approach it with difficulty. - -"This region abounds in birds," continued his informant, "and also with -less pleasing things to meet--snakes. Some of the serpents are large and -others are venomous. It is a fortunate thing for travellers in the -forest that the snake seeks safety in flight when he can do so, and does -not voluntarily attack man. Birds and small animals are his prey, and he -takes them after the same fashion as the serpents of the rest of the -world." - -Fred asked what was the most dangerous of the serpents of this tropical -region. - -"The worst I know of," was the reply, "is the _vivora de sangre_, which -causes the blood of man or beast to sweat through the pores of the body -until the veins are exhausted and the victim dies in a state of utter -weakness. It is literally a case of bleeding to death, though not in the -ordinary way of opening the veins." - -Then he told of another serpent called the _mica_, or whipping-snake, -which when irritated flattens its head upon the ground and seems to -fasten it there. Then it lashes on either side with its tail like a -whip, and it strikes a blow of wonderful force when its size is -considered. - -Then followed an extended conversation upon the natural history of -Campeachy and the regions bordering it, but the youths did not take -further notes, and so we are unable to repeat what was said. Some of the -stories of the traveller were impressed on the mind of Frank more on -account of their improbability than for any other peculiarity. - -He told about serpents thirty feet long that suspended themselves from -trees which overhung path-ways, and swooped down upon cattle, sheep, and -other animals that came within their reach. Frank asked if human beings -were exempt from their attacks, and the stranger replied that those who -ate plenty of _chili colorado_ with their food were not disturbed, or at -any rate the snake would not swallow them, as he wasn't fond of red -pepper. He might kill them before finding out the fact, but as soon as -he had done so he would respectfully turn aside and seek other game. - -Then followed a story about another variety of snake that kills a bird -on its nest and then proceeds to coil affectionately about the eggs and -hatch them out. When the young birds appear he cares for them tenderly, -bringing them food in the daytime, and at night nestling over them to -protect their unfeathered bodies from the cold and dampness. - -"And I suppose," said Frank, "that when he has reared them to a suitable -size he proceeds to eat them up." - -As to that the stranger could give no information, and accordingly the -youth concluded that the narrative was not based upon personal -observation. - -From Campeachy the steamer held her course to Progreso, the principal -port of Yucatan. That honor formerly belonged to Sisal, but the -advantages of Progreso caused it to be preferred, and now it is the seat -of commerce. Not that the harbor amounts to much, as the shallow coast -prevents vessels of more than a few feet draught from coming anywhere -near it. The passengers were landed in a large row-boat that danced -very uneasily upon the waves and disturbed the digestion of some who -thus far had borne the movements of the sea without objection. It was a -long pull to the shore, but they reached it in safety and resigned -themselves to the custom-house officials who were waiting at the -landing-place. - -[Illustration] - -The inspection was not very rigorous, as the passengers were from -another Mexican port and not from foreign lands; in fact it was nothing -more than a form, and was quickly over. Then the strangers had a -half-hour in which to inspect the town of Progreso; they inspected it -and had fifteen minutes to spare. The place is simply a shipping-point, -and nobody lives there except those whose business connects them with -marine matters. It is surrounded by swamps and is damp and unhealthy. It -was desirable to get away from it as soon as possible, as it seemed an -excellent spot for incorporating fever-germs into the system. The -population is less than 2000, not including the tenants of the -cemetery, which is said to be liberally patronized. - -[Illustration: TROPICAL RAILWAY TRAIN AND STATION.] - -Merida, the capital, is about thirty miles from Progreso, and connected -with it by railway. The train rolled slowly along, taking nearly three -hours for the journey; but as it has no competition it has no occasion -to hurry. Passengers sometimes complain of the snail-like speed, and are -told that they can possibly do better by getting out and walking. Our -friends made no complaint, as they realized that even at a pace not -exceeding ten miles an hour it was much better than no railway at all. -The engine and cars were of American make, and the conductor was a New -Yorker who had become so bronzed by the sun as to be readily taken for a -Mexican. - -"This railway was built like a good many other lines in Mexico," said a -passenger on the train who fell into conversation with Doctor Bronson -and the youths. "All the material was brought from foreign countries and -landed at Progreso; it was then hauled in carts to Merida, and the line -was built _from_ Merida _towards_ the sea. The same ideas prevailed as -in the case of the line between Vera Cruz and the city of Mexico; the -peace of the country would be endangered if the railway should be -constructed from the sea-coast inland. - -"The story goes that the contractor received a liberal subsidy from the -Government only on condition that he built from Merida, and as he began -to use the line as soon as he had five or six miles completed, he made -money by the operation. There is another story, that he was allowed to -charge a high price for passengers while the road was under -construction, but must come down to a low figure when it was completed. - -"The result was that the contractor stopped work before reaching the -coast, and did not resume for a long time; there was a mile or so of -unfinished road, and this gave him an excuse for exorbitant rates for -passengers. Complaints were so numerous that the Government was obliged -to interfere and compel him to carry out the spirit as well as the -letter of his contract." - -[Illustration: FLOCK OF PELICANS.] - -Frank watched from one side of the train while Fred kept a sharp eye out -on the other. Soon after starting, the train passed a lagoon which -abounded in aquatic birds--duck, teal, egrets, herons, curlews, snipe, -pelicans, and the like. Were it not for the liability to fevers, owing -to the unhealthy miasmas rising from the lagoon, the region would be an -attractive one for sportsmen. Even with its drawbacks a fair number of -hunters find their way there, and some of them praise the locality in -glowing terms. After passing the lagoon the road reaches the coral rock -which is the foundation of Yucatan and supports a thin and rather dry -soil. - -The youths thought they were again among fields of the maguey plant and -haciendas for pulque-making as soon as the solid ground was reached, but -their new acquaintance undeceived them. - -[Illustration: SISAL-HEMP.] - -"These fields that stretch for miles in every direction between the -coast and the capital," said he, "are not covered with the maguey from -which pulque is made, but with _henequin_. Henequin belongs to the aloe -family, as does the maguey, and it is from this plant that a variety of -fibre like hemp is produced. When Sisal was the seaport the product took -its name; it is known in commerce as sisal-hemp, though very little of -it comes directly from that place at present. It grows, like the maguey, -on rocks or very thin soil where nothing else can flourish, and it -requires no water or but very little. Take away the henequin plant and -the fibre made from it, and Yucatan would be seriously crippled in its -commerce. Considerable corn is raised, but it is mostly needed for home -consumption. The value of the sisal-hemp export is above three millions -of dollare annually, sometimes exceeding and sometimes falling below -that figure. - -"Yucatan has no rivers," he continued, "and the planters depend entirely -upon rains for irrigation. These are supplied by the moisture from the -Gulf of Mexico, and if this should fail the country would soon become a -desert." - -The gentleman then gave some information relative to the cultivation of -henequin and the preparation of the fibre which we will reserve for a -later page, when the youths have had an opportunity to see the process. -Fred made note of the fact that the plant was indigenous to Yucatan, and -used for the production of fibre long before the advent of the whites. -Its exportation in large quantities is a matter of recent times, and is -steadily increasing. - -Henequin is grown from shoots which are cut from the base of the old -plants. Three years after the shoots are set out the plant is large -enough for a first crop of leaves to be cut; the cutting goes on for -twelve or fifteen years, and in the mean time new shoots are set out -every year, so that a plantation is constantly being renewed. When the -plant is at its full size the leaves are four or five feet long. After -a plantation is fairly under way, and producing regularly, it requires -very little attention. - -[Illustration: INDIANS OF YUCATAN.] - -The scientific name of sisal-hemp is _Agave Sisalensis_ or _Agave -Sisolana_; properly speaking, it is not hemp at all, and reminds us of -the peddler of "hot mutton-pies" who replied, when a customer complained -that his wares were frozen, "hot mutton-pies is the name of 'em." The -true hemp is an annual plant, supposed to be a native of India, whence -its culture has spread through the world, and it has no resemblance -whatever to henequin, or Agave Sisalana. - -While we have been talking on this and other topics the train has been -rolling on towards Merida. Frank recorded in his note-book that Yucatan -was first seen by the eye of a white man in 1506, and was first visited -and partially explored in 1517 by Hernandez de Cordova. The visit of -Cordova was not altogether encouraging, as the Indians killed or wounded -all but one of his companions, among the wounded being Bernal Diaz, the -historian of Cortez. Not discouraged by his injuries, Diaz came the -following year to Yucatan with Grijalva, and in 1519 with Cortez to the -same country and Mexico. - -Mexico and its treasures attracted attention for the next decade or two, -and very little thought was given to Yucatan. In 1537 a settlement was -effected; but the Spaniards were opposed by a ferocious people, and -found time for nothing but fighting until 1540, when they defeated the -natives in a great battle on the present site of Merida. After -conquering the country they found they had achieved a barren victory, as -Yucatan contained neither gold nor silver, the object of all the Spanish -conquests in the New World. - -After their defeat the Indians seem to have accepted the situation, and -acknowledged themselves vassals of the Spaniards. They became -Christians, like the people of Mexico, and though they may have been -somewhat perplexed in their endeavors to reconcile the precepts and -practices of the religion of the white men from beyond the sea, they did -not find it worth while to argue vigorously with their masters. From an -exceedingly warlike race they became a peaceable one, though they might -have been otherwise had their country contained gold and silver mines, -in which they would have been put to work as slaves. - -According to history, they did not forget all the arts of war or lose -their instinct for it. In 1761, and again in 1847, they rebelled against -the Government and made a great deal of trouble; and even at the present -time there is a section of the country where the Indians are living in -open hostility to the authorities. A few thousand of them in the eastern -part of Yucatan have made a great deal of trouble, causing towns and -villages to be abandoned in consequence of the raids which they make at -irregular intervals. Several times they have come into the neighborhood -of Merida and caused a great deal of excitement. - -Frank and Fred heard terrible stories about these Indians, and were -cautioned not to go anywhere near their country. "If they get hold of a -white man," said their informant, "they cut him to pieces immediately -without waiting for any explanation, or else they take him to one of -their villages and torture him in the most cruel manner for the -amusement of the women and children. They live among the hills, swamps, -and forests of the south-eastern part of the country, and though several -expeditions have been sent against them, it seems impossible to -penetrate to their retreats. They have a very little trade with the -English residents of British Honduras, but refuse to allow them to enter -their country; one Englishman who had dealt with them for several years -ventured to go there, and was never seen or heard of again. - -"They are constantly making threats of destroying Merida, and as these -stories are circulated they greatly alarm the timid portion of the -inhabitants. It is not likely that they really intend anything of the -kind, as they would probably be defeated, but they know the value of -rumors and keep them constantly circulating. In this way they have -diminished the population and business of Valladolid more than one-half. -It was once a prosperous city, but is now languishing, and many of its -houses are in ruins." - -[Illustration: RETREATING FROM HOSTILE INDIANS.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - -RAILWAY-STATION AT MERIDA.--PUBLIC CONVEYANCES.--THE _CALESA_.--A RIDE -THROUGH THE STREETS.--WHEN MERIDA WAS FOUNDED.--PRACTICAL MODE OF -DESIGNATING STREETS.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--_CASA MUNICIPAL_.--DRESS AND -MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE.--INDIANS, SPANIARDS, AND MESTIZOS.--A CITY OF -PRETTY WOMEN.--CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAYA RACE.--THE MESTIZO -QUARTER.--SCENES IN THE MARKET.--BREAKFASTING AT A MEDIO -RESTAURANT.--EUCHRE OR YUCCA.--USES OF THE YUCCA PLANT.--GAMBLING IN -YUCATAN.--_LA LOTERIA_; HOW IT IS PLAYED.--AMERICAN COUNTERPART OF THE -YUCATEO GAME.--A POPULAR ASSEMBLAGE. - - -[Illustration: IN THE OUTSKIRTS.] - -The train rolled into Merida and halted under the walls of an old -convent that has been converted into a public hospital. As the -passengers emerged from the station Frank and Fred were impressed with -the listlessness of the cab-drivers, who did not seem to care whether -they obtained customers or not. They stood or sat idly near their -vehicles, and one was sound asleep on his box, where he evidently did -not wish to be disturbed for so trivial a matter as earning a living. - -[Illustration: THE CALESA.--ENTRANCE OF A MERIDA HOUSE.] - -The carriages in waiting were of various kinds. That which first caught -the eyes of the youths was a _calesa_, a sort of chaise carrying two -persons, the driver being seated on the horse; the shafts were of -unusual length, and the weight was so placed that fully one-third of it -rested on the animal, in addition to that of the driver. The wood-work -was bright with paint and gilding, and over the frame was drawn a cover -of white linen to ward off rain and dust together with the heat of the -sun, which is by no means light in Yucatan. Fred suggested that it was a -wise provision of nature to seat the driver on the horse, as he could -not conveniently go to sleep there. - -A somewhat rickety carriage to hold four persons was secured, and in -this conveyance the travellers proceeded to the only hotel of which -Merida can boast. Until recently the place had no hotel whatever, and -strangers were obliged to hunt lodgings for themselves or apply to their -consular representative or a foreign merchant. Even as it is, a letter -of introduction to a resident is a very useful document. Few travellers -go to Merida, and the universal testimony of those who have been there -is that the residents are hospitable. The same may be said generally of -the inhabitants of the towns, villages, and haciendas throughout -Yucatan. - -The streets of Merida are broader than those of many other Mexican -cities, but their pavement does not attract attention by its excellence. -The houses are of stone, and mostly but a single story in height. The -entrance is generally through an arched door-way into a court-yard, and -the windows that face the street are invariably grated and nearly all -without glass. The construction of the houses suggests Moorish and -Spanish architecture, together with some features peculiar to the -dwellings of the natives. - -Merida stands on the site of a native city, where a great and decisive -battle was fought in 1540. According to the Spanish historians, there -were 200 Spaniards against 40,000 Indians. Doubtless the figures are not -exact, but it is quite likely that the defeated army was vastly superior -in numbers to the invaders. The Spaniards had, of course, the advantage -of fire-arms, as they had in the conquest of Mexico, and we have seen in -previous pages what a great advantage it was. The Indians had only -spears, swords, and bows and arrows, and their bodily defences were -tunics of wadded cotton. These tunics were efficient against their own -kind of weapons, but of little use to repel a musket-ball. The cannon of -the Spaniards created terrible havoc among them, and one chronicler says -that when the Indians were heavily massed the cannon-balls tore through -them and mowed down hundreds at every discharge. - -Where is now the Plaza Mayor was a mound of stone and earth at the time -of the Conquest. On the top of the mound was an altar, on which -sacrifices were made; but the natives were not as much addicted to them -as were the people of Mexico. This very circumstance had much to do with -the success of Cortez in his conquest. The Aztecs sought to take their -enemies alive in order to sacrifice them on their altars; and it is said -that Cortez himself was in their hands on two occasions. They might -easily have killed him, but while they were leading him away uninjured, -in order that he should be kept for sacrifice, he was rescued by his -followers. - -The mound referred to was torn down for the sake of the building -material it contained; and the same was the case with many other mounds -and pyramids in its neighborhood. Very much of the material of which -Merida is constructed was obtained from these edifices. - -The streets cross each other at right angles, and Frank observed -something which he thought quite original in the naming of the streets. -Here is his memorandum on the subject: - -"For the convenience of the Indians who could not read or write Spanish, -or anything else, in fact, the streets were named after birds and -beasts. In addition to the Spanish name in letters there was the figure -of the creature after which the street was called. The Street of the Ox -had the figure of an ox in stone or plaster, or painted on the wall; the -Street of the Flamingo presented a tall flamingo with a beak of fiery -red, and the Street of the Elephant had a well-moulded figure of that -animal with enormous trunk and tusks. The idea is a capital one, and I'm -surprised it has been so little utilized." - -"It is utilized more than you think," said Doctor Bronson, when Frank -called his attention to the subject. "You remember that in Russia and -other countries where large numbers of the population cannot read, the -shop-keepers ornament their signs with pictures of the things they have -to sell; and the custom is by no means unknown in our own land. A -watch-maker hangs out a wooden watch, a boot-maker displays a boot or -shoe, and a druggist shows a mortar and pestle. You remember how -convenient it was in the far East, for the servants who did not know a -single Roman letter, that the canned fruits, meats, and vegetables from -America and England bore on their labels a picture of the article -contained in the can?" - -"Certainly, I do remember," replied the youth. "After all, there's -nothing new under the sun, though the application of the idea here is -something we have not before seen." - -[Illustration: HOUSE BUILT BY MONTEJO.] - -There are twelve or fifteen squares, or plazas, in the city, the most -important being, of course, the central one known as the Plaza Mayor. -The cathedral and the _Casa Municipal_, or City Hall, face upon this -square, and on one side of it is the oldest house in the city, dating -from 1549. The city was founded in 1542 by Don Francisco de Montejo, the -son of the Governor of the Province of Yucatan, and bearing exactly the -same name. Montejo, junior, was lieutenant-governor and captain-general, -and the old house just mentioned, which is one of the sights of Merida, -was built by him. The façade is ornamented with sculptures, which are -said to have been made by Indians after designs supplied by the -Spaniards. They represent the conquerors trampling on the bodies of -natives, who have been made non-resistant by the removal of their heads. -It was probably the idea of Montejo that the sight of these sculptures -would deter the Indians from any further resistance to the white men who -came from beyond the sea, and brought the Christian religion to replace -the paganism which they found here. - -[Illustration: MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.] - -The hotel in which our friends were lodged is also on the great square, -directly opposite the old house of Montejo, which was the first building -to which the youths gave special attention. Most of the buildings -fronting the square are of more than one story; in fact, the best -architecture of the place may be said to be in that neighborhood. The -Casa Municipal is an imposing building of two stories, with broad -porticos supported on arches. It has a high tower, from which watchmen -are supposed to be constantly on the lookout for fires; though, owing to -the material used in the construction of Merida, and the absence of -stoves and furnaces, fires are of exceedingly rare occurrence. - -[Illustration; MUNICIPAL PALACE AND SQUARE, MERIDA.] - -"The first thing to attract our attention as we strolled through the -streets," wrote Fred, "was the dress of the people. The men--I am -speaking of the native Indians--wear cotton trousers, or drawers, which -are tight at the waist, and descend to the knee or below it. Sometimes -they have shirts on their backs and sometimes none; but in the latter -case a man is reasonably certain to have one folded away in his hat, to -be worn on state occasions or when the rules of society demand. Some of -them wear a long shirt and no trousers, and altogether the wardrobe of a -native of the lower class is not costly. Frequently we see men with one -leg of the trousers rolled up and the other hanging down, and it is a -comical sight when a half a dozen thus arrayed are grouped together. A -very noticeable feature about the shirt is that it is worn with the -'flaps' outside, like a carter's frock or 'jumper,' and not inside, as -in northern countries. - -"The dress of the women is a skirt hanging from the waist to the ground, -and a white _uipil_, or outer garment, that hangs from the shoulders to -the ground, like a loose wrapper. It is the traditional dress of 300 -years ago, and the fashion has not changed at all in that time. On -Sundays and feast days both sexes are arrayed in spotless white, but on -other days their garments are apt to be more or less dingy. Compared to -the Mexicans, the Yucateos, as the people of Yucatan are called, are -wonderfully cleanly in their dress and ways, and it is as rare to see a -dirty Yucateco as it is to see a clean Aztec. The uipil of the women has -short sleeves, and is not as high in the neck as the close-fitted dress -of New England, but is a modest and neat-looking dress, and the -whiteness of the material makes a fine contrast with the dark skin of -the wearer. - -[Illustration: DANCING SCENE.] - -"Many of the women are pretty, and we do not wonder that the Spanish -conquerors were loud in their praises of the comeliness of the feminine -part of the inhabitants of Yucatan. Their eyes are black as coals, and -their sight is as sharp as that of the traditional Indian everywhere; -altogether the people have a close resemblance to the Malay race, and we -have but to close our eyes a moment to imagine ourselves once more in -Batavia or Singapore. - -"The people are of the Maya race, and here, in the name, we have a near -approach to 'Malay.' By some they are supposed to be an ancient people -who lived here before the advent of the Toltecs, which happened about -the twelfth century; others believe them to be a combination of two -races, the Toltecs from the west and another race from the islands of -the Caribbean Sea. Landa, Stephens, Squier, and other writers say the -Mayas were the most civilized people of America; they had an alphabet -and a literature, cultivated the soil, had rude machinery for -manufacturing textile and other fabrics, possessed sailing-vessels, and -had a circulating medium which corresponded to the money of the Old -World. - -"The great temples of Palenque and other cities of this part of the -world were built by this people, or by tribes and races closely allied -to them; we have shown by our accounts of Palenque and Lorillard City -that these temples were of no mean architecture, and we shall have more -to say when we come to the ruined cities of Yucatan. - -"According to the Spanish historians, the people were ruled despotically -by a king, and were divided into nobles, priests, common people, and -slaves. The king, nobles, and priests held the greater part of the -lands; the land of the common people was held on the communistic -principle, and each man had enough to cultivate for the support of his -family. The commoners were obliged to supply the noble with fish, game, -salt, and other things he wanted; to cultivate his land, and follow him -to war whenever he chose to go on a campaign. In fact the condition of -the peasants in Yucatan was much like that of the subjects of a rajah of -India before the English took possession of the country, or of a daimio -of Japan. They had nothing they could call their own, not even their -lives, and their condition was not at all improved by the conquest of -the country by the Spaniards, except that they were not liable to be -taken for sacrificial purposes, according to the ancient custom. - -[Illustration: NATIVE VILLAGE IN THE INTERIOR.] - -"Slavery has been abolished, and imprisonment for debt is no longer -allowed by law; but every man between the ages of twenty-one and fifty -can be drafted for military service. When so employed he receives six -cents a day and supplies his own food! - -"Merida has a population of about 50,000, by far the greater number of -them being of Indian blood either pure or mixed. There is a large -proportion of mestizos, or half-castes, and they are the handsomest part -of the population. We have seen some mestizo women who could compete -successfully in a beauty show including Mrs. Langtry and all the other -'professionals' of the day. The mestizos inhabit a part of the town by -themselves, where their thatched huts stand in quarter-acre lots planted -with grass and trees. These huts are said to be very much like those -occupied by the Indians before the Conquest. - -"You know we always go to the market-place in every strange city that we -visit, and may be sure we did not omit that of Merida. It is not unlike -the market-places of Mexican cities in general, but has some features -peculiarly its own. - -"Half the population of the city seemed to have gathered there--Indians, -mestizos, Spaniards, foreigners, and dogs; and there was a hum of voices -which never ceased for an instant. The manners of the natives are more -pleasing than those of the people in the markets of Mexico. They chat -good-naturedly and with many a smile, as though they enjoyed coming to -the market without regard to whether they sell anything or not. A great -deal of bargaining is necessary in making purchases, for the Indian has -no notion of the value of time; and for the matter of that, the tropical -resident, whatever his nationality, is rarely in a hurry. We passed many -picturesque groups, fruit-sellers with their wares in broad baskets, -their heads wrapped in rebozos either white or colored, and their eyes -shining like little globes of polished anthracite set in their brown -skins. - -[Illustration: FRUIT-SELLERS IN THE MARKET-PLACE.] - -"These fruit-sellers were so numerous near the entrance of the market -that it was no easy matter to get past them into the open space beyond. -A _medio_ would buy all the oranges, bananas, or mangoes that one would -care for. Frank and I invested two medios (twelve cents) in oranges, and -distributed them to a lot of boys that were strolling through the place. -They took the fruit with an air of gratitude combined with dignity, and -during the rest of our stay several of them followed us about in the -hope that our princely generosity would be renewed. - -[Illustration: SITTING FOR HER PORTRAIT.] - -"The square where the market was held was filled with little shelters to -keep off the heat of the sun. These shelters were made by sticking up -poles so as to hold a piece of matting or common cloth in a horizontal -position. Under each of these impromptu tents a vender was seated, -generally a woman or a girl, and the articles for sale were spread on -the ground. Eggs, fruit, lettuce, peas, beans, and kindred products of -the garden were thus displayed; and the wonder seemed to be that nobody -trod upon the wares, which were certainly endangered by careless feet. -Mules and donkeys with large panniers on each side brought loads of -things to be disposed of, but the greater part of the burdens were borne -on the backs of men. Occasionally a man on horseback appeared in the -market, and once in a while a policeman showed himself, though his -presence did not appear to be needed at all. We did not hear or see -anything that approached a quarrel, and were told that fights were of -very rare occurrence. - -"Some of these shelters are restaurants on a small scale, and one day we -went to the market to take a medio breakfast, being assured that it was -one of the sensations of the country. We sought one of the most -attractive restaurants we could find, and squatted on the ground close -to the one individual who was proprietor, _chef_, head-waiter, waiter, -and everybody else. Our breakfast was a stew of frijoles, chile con -carne, and tortillas. It was served to us in _jicaras_, or half-shells -of some kind of tree-fruit whose name we did not learn. No spoons or -forks were supplied. We used the tortillas for spoons, and afterwards -devoured them in true Mexican style. As Sam Weller said of veal-pie, a -medio breakfast in a Yucateo restaurant is 'werry fillin'' at the price. -The Yucateos are as devoted to the tortilla as are the inhabitants of -the rest of Mexico, and the native cooks are expert in its manufacture. - -[Illustration: IN THE MARKET-PLACE.] - -"While in the market we met our acquaintance of the railway-train. His -first question was as to whether we had seen how the natives practise -gambling, and his second, 'Have you tried euchre?' - -"We thought it a singular question, and Frank replied that neither of us -played that or any other game of cards. - -"He laughed and said, 'I don't mean euchre; I mean yucca.' - -"We looked rather puzzled I'm sure, and then with another laugh he -pointed to a pile of something that looked very much like 'ruta-baga' -turnips, such as cattle are fed with in some parts of the United States. - -"'That,' said he, 'is yucca, and it belongs to the same family as the -maguey and henequin.' As soon as he said this we remembered to have seen -the plant in Mexico. We had just been talking about the fondness of the -people for gambling, and hence our misunderstanding. - -"We bought a medio's worth of the article and tasted it. The flavor was -something like that of a sweet turnip, and not at all disagreeable. I -can readily understand that one might become fond of it, and our friend -said that it was quite nutritious. The root is eaten by the natives, the -fibres furnish a textile fabric like henequin, and soap is made from the -stalk and leaves. Recently an enterprising American has manufactured a -preparation for the hair from the yucca plant, and it is said to possess -remarkable powers for restoring hair to heads that for years have been -as smooth as an ostrich-egg. - -"While on the subject of gambling we will mention the popular amusement -of _la loteria_, or 'the lottery.' - -"Our guide took us into a large hall, which is open to the public, or -rather to anybody who can force his way through the dense crowd at the -door. All classes seemed to have assembled there; rich and poor were -seated at the same tables, and their object seemed to be amusement -rather than gain. The stakes were very small, ordinarily a medio, and in -a few instances _dos reales_. The room was hot as an oven, brilliantly -lighted, every foot of standing and sitting room was occupied, and white -people of all grades in life, gentlemen as well as ladies, negroes, -Indians, and mestizos crowded together at the tables, which were in two -rows the whole length of the hall. - -"The amusement is licensed by the Government, which sells sheets of -paper for a real each on which the game is played. It is done by a -combination of numbers all the way from one to ninety. These numbers are -arranged on the paper or cards in different combinations, no two cards -being alike. - -"Each player buys a card and places it in front of him on the table. -Then a hat or a basket is passed around, and each one puts in his medio -or whatever else the stake may be. When the money has all been collected -and the amount of the stake announced, the game begins. In addition to -his card each player has a pile of grains of corn in front of him, and a -stick with which to rap on the table when the time to do so arrives. - -"The object is to get a row of five numbers on the cards from the -numbers which are drawn, and the one who first gets a row wins the -purse. On a platform, in full view of everybody, is a man with a bag -containing wooden or ivory balls, on which the numbers from one to -ninety are painted. When the game is to begin, this man draws a ball -from the bag and announces the number upon it, and the player who finds -that number on his card places a grain of corn over the figures. One -after another, numbers are called out in a voice that rises above all -the confusion of sounds with which the place is filled, and each time a -number is called it is marked with the corn. - -"Everybody is intently watching his card, and there is a crowd of -spectators looking over the shoulders of the players. Men, women, -children--white, black, yellow, and all other colors possible to -humanity--are there; and so are all the dresses of Yucatan, from the -uniform of the high official and the satin or silk of the grand dame of -society down to the cotton garb of the Indian, and quite likely his bare -shoulders with no garb at all. Three-fourths of those present are -smoking, and the atmosphere is like a morning fog, only a great deal -worse. - -"By-and-by somebody raps sharply on the table with his stick to indicate -that he has made a row of five numbers, and stands up in his place. Then -the man on the platform calls the drawn numbers again, and if the -announcement of the row is correct the winner takes the purse. As the -stake is small, he does not win a great deal; but evidently he is the -envy of his less fortunate neighbors. - -"Mistakes occur sometimes, and then there is a tumult, in which knives -may be drawn and things become very lively for the bystanders. We did -not stay long in the place, you may be sure, but we came away convinced -that la loteria is less ruinous to the pockets of the players than many -other games of chance. - -"An American gentleman with whom we talked on the subject said that this -game is not unlike one known in some other parts of the world under the -name of 'keno.' He told us that there were many other forms of gambling -in Yucatan, most of them being forbidden by the Government, and -consequently played less openly than the lottery. He told us that there -was heavy gambling in the clubs; in some of them the play is only for -gold, silver being considered too insignificant and bulky for the -amusement of gentlemen. - -"We thought it was very much to the credit of the people of Merida that -the utmost good-nature seemed to prevail in the dense crowd at the hall -we visited. We did not hear a rude word, or witness a rude act of any -kind; and the only exceptions, we are told, is when there is a quarrel -growing out of the drawing of the numbers from the bag." - -[Illustration: NO MORE "LOTERIA."] - - - - -CHAPTER XXX. - -POTTERY AND HAMMOCK MARKETS.--HAMMOCKS IN YUCATAN; THEIR GENERAL USE FOR -SLEEPING PURPOSES.--YUCATEO SALUTATIONS.--AN AWKWARD -SITUATION.--FASHIONABLE, MESTIZO, AND INDIAN BALLS.--CHARACTERISTIC -INDIAN DANCES.--WORSHIP OF THE SUN AMONG THE ANCIENT YUCATEOS.--NATIVE -MUSIC.--ZOPILOTE DANCE.--VISIT TO A HENEQUIN HACIENDA.--THE _VOLAN -COCHÉ_; A VEHICLE OF THE COUNTRY.--A RACE AND HOW IT ENDED.--ARRIVAL AT -THE HACIENDA.--THE SCRAPING AND BALING MACHINERY.--STARTING A -PLANTATION.--PRICE OF THE FIBRE IN THE MARKET.--"NO MONEY IN THE -BUSINESS."--FIBRE-FACTORIES IN YUCATAN.--HOW THE OWNERS OF ESTATES LIVE. - - -[Illustration: HAMMOCK LODGINGS IN THE COUNTRY.] - -"The market we have described," wrote Fred, "is for the sale of articles -of food only. There is another market where pottery, cotton fabrics, and -other miscellaneous wares are sold, and still another which is entirely -given up to the makers and venders of hats and hammocks. Hammock-making -is a great industry in Yucatan, and thousands of these articles are sent -to New York, London, and other foreign ports. A curious circumstance -about this industry is that the best hammocks are those for home -consumption; the foreign markets are unwilling to pay the prices of the -fine qualities, and consequently none are sent away except upon special -orders. When you next buy a Yucatan hammock in New York you may make up -your mind that it is one in which only a very poor man here would sleep. - -[Illustration: VIEW ON A BACK STREET.] - -"Hammocks are in use for sleeping purposes all through this country, and -the natives prefer them to beds. Our personal experience is that a -hammock is a very good thing to lounge in, or even to take a nap, but -for an all-night sleep it doesn't give the rest and refreshment to the -tired body that we find in a bed. But habit has a great deal to do with -this, as with many other things of life; a Japanese pillow is torture to -a European quite as much as the European one is to a Japanese. - -"The advantages claimed for a hammock are that the sleeper is protected -from many insects that would trouble him in a bed, and the opportunity -for the air to circulate, which is a very desirable matter in a hot -country. Both these arguments are well founded, and so is the further -one that the hammock-sleeper can carry his bed with him, as it weighs -only a few ounces and can be rolled into a small parcel. - -"We asked the prices and were staggered at the figures. In New York we -think $2 a good price, and the majority of the hammocks sold there bring -$1 or $1.50 each. The cheapest they showed us was $7, and they had them -all the way up to $15, $18, $20, $25, and even $30. The dealer said that -if these were not fine enough for our purpose we might have them made to -order, and he could give us something superb for $50. We bought some of -the cheapest kind, and they were far better than anything we ever saw at -home. The best qualities are made of very fine fibre, and if care is -taken with them they last for several years. - -"While walking along the streets near the market we met some ladies to -whom we had been introduced. They recognized and saluted us; they were -on the opposite sidewalk, and at first we thought they were beckoning -for us to cross over to their side. Then we remembered what we had been -told about the Yucateo form of salutation, and replied by raising our -hats and bowing. This is what they did: - -"Each lady raised her hand until it was on a level with her eyes, and -then she 'wiggled' her fingers back and forth in a way that is -impossible to describe in words. It is very much what one would do in -our country if she wished to speak to you, and we can readily believe -what we have been told, that this form of salutation is a great puzzle -to the stranger. - -"One day an Englishman, who was thus saluted, went up to his fair -recognizer, a lady to whom he had been presented at a party on the -previous evening, and stood waiting for her to begin the conversation. -She was accompanied by another lady, neither of whom could speak -English, while the Englishman did not know a word of any language but -his own. The situation was awkward, and after both had pronounced -several phrases that the other side could not comprehend, the Englishman -bowed and proceeded to walk away. The lady repeated the Merida -salutation, and this puzzled the stranger more than ever, as he supposed -she wished him to follow. He gallantly complied, and walked demurely -along till he happened to meet the gentleman who had introduced him. -Explanations followed, and all parties concerned had a good laugh over -the occurrence. It is probable that the Englishman's laugh was less -hearty than that of the others, as he could not fail to be somewhat -mortified at his awkward misunderstanding. - -"In the fashionable hours for strolling on the paseo everybody is there, -and no matter how often you meet any one whom you know you are expected -to salute. This keeps everybody on the alert, as the turns of the paseo -are likely to bring the same individuals face to face every few minutes. - -[Illustration: SCENE IN A BALL-ROOM.] - -"It was our good-fortune to be in Merida in the season of dancing, and -we were invited to go to a ball, in fact to several balls. We went first -to an aristocratic one, which was given in the Casino, a large, -two-storied building, with balconies or verandas all around, and -brilliantly lighted. It is built around a court-yard planted with -tropical trees and flowers in great profusion, and is a very attractive -place. - -"The ball-room occupied three sides of the upper story of the building, -while the fourth contained the dressing and supper rooms. The orchestra -was in the corridor just outside the dancing-hall, and while everybody -could hear the music, very few could see the musicians. We got there -before the dance began and while the ladies were coming out of the -dressing-rooms and taking seats at the side of the ball-room, very much -as they are seated in other countries. We observed that the gentlemen -held the ladies by the hand as they escorted them to their seats, and -not by giving them their arms as we do. - -"It was a real beauty show when the ladies were ranged along the wall, -and they seemed to know it just as well as did their admirers, who -congregated at one end of the hall and in the corridors, and smoked -cigarettes. The gentlemen chatted with each other with more or less -animation, but watched the line of señoritas, whose eyes sparkled like -diamonds and were a sharp contrast to their pearly white teeth. Under -the light the señoritas' complexions were as glowing as that of a young -English girl; of course, we cannot say how much of it is due to nature, -and how much to cosmetics. They all had splendid heads of coal-black -hair, arranged in the tasteful way for which Spanish ladies are famous. - -"The music struck up for a waltz, and then each gentleman advanced -towards the lady of his choice, and whirled her away for the round of -the hall. The theory of these balls is that everybody knows everybody -else, and the gentlemen did not ask the ladies whether they wanted to -dance or not. Of course, it is to be presumed that they were there with -that object in view, but we thought it would be more graceful if they -had been consulted before being lifted from their seats and set in -motion. - -"We had wondered how it was possible for people to dance in this hot -atmosphere, but when we heard how slowly the music played, and saw that -the waltz was only a slow gliding and sliding over the floor, as though -the waltzers were not more than half awake, we wondered no longer. It is -nothing like the exciting whirl of a waltz in northern countries; and -the same may be said of the other dances of this very select assemblage. -We remained half an hour or so, and then went to the mestizo ball, where -it was a good deal more animated. - -"The mestizo girls wore the white dresses already described; some of -them had only a few ribbons or flowers for ornaments, while others were -loaded down with bracelets, rings, and other ornaments, in which -diamonds had a more or less prominent part. A gentleman who was with us -said many of the diamonds were hired for the occasion, and he had no -doubt that a good share of them were paste. The men were the most -comical sights you can imagine, as they all wore their hats, and the -most of them had their shirts waving outside, after the custom of the -country. Some of them had coats and jackets. A man thus clad was looked -upon as an aristocrat; but to be so considered he was obliged to suffer -some inconvenience, as the outer garment is a serious burden in the -heavy tropical atmosphere, made doubly oppressive by the heat of the -room. Two or three men carried their jackets on their arms, and some -flung them into a corner at the risk of never finding them again. - -"The musicians were native Indians, who played with perfect time and -melody, as though they had graduated from the schools of the most -accomplished masters of Europe. All these people are natural musicians; -a very little instruction suffices for them, and with careful training -they ought to be able to astonish the world. The men and women dance to -perfection; we did not see a false step taken during the time we looked -on at the ball, and yet it is not likely that any of the dancers ever -had the advantage of a professional instructor. The members of the -orchestra at the mestizo ball were dressed in the shirt and drawers -already mentioned, and, like the dancing men of the party, retained -their hats all the time they played. - -"The dances were more interesting than those of the fashionable ball, -inasmuch as the latter were European in character, while those of the -mestizos had a peculiarity of their own. One was called the zopilote, or -buzzard dance; a man and a woman each carrying a handkerchief which they -twirled above their heads, and in all sorts of directions whirled and -twisted themselves along the floor, all the while keeping perfect time -to the music of the performers. It reminded us very much of one of the -national dances of the Russians, which is often given by the ballet -troupes of the imperial theatres of Moscow and St. Petersburg, and may -be seen in its simplicity in almost any town or village of the great -northern empire. - -[Illustration: INDIANS DANCING.] - -"But more interesting to us than either of the balls we have mentioned -was that of the Indians, where they were indulging in historic dances -which have been preserved from ancient times. When we entered the room, -which was pretty well filled with people who respectfully made way for -us, the performance had already begun. We will remark here that the -ancient Yucateos, like the Parsees, were worshippers of the sun; the -reverence for that luminary has descended to this day, though it is by -no means preserved in its former purity. - -"Mr. Ober, the author of 'Travels in Mexico,' seems to have witnessed a -better performance of this dance than we did, as he saw the beginning, -which we did not see, so we will quote his account, which is as follows: - -"'The first thing these Indians did was to spread a banner in the centre -of the room, on which was painted a figure of the sun, with two people -kneeling in adoration of it. The chief of this band of about twenty -Indians then suspended from his neck a bright-colored representation of -the sun stamped on tin. At the foot of the banner-staff crouched an old -man, with a drum made by stretching the skin of a calf or goat over one -end of a hollow log; at the side of the drum hung the shell of a -land-tortoise, and the old man beat the drum and rattled the shell in -unison. The article with which he beat the drum attracted my attention, -and I examined it and found it to be the gilded horn of a deer. This -hollow drum, with turtle-shell and deer's antler, fully confirms the -statement that the music is aboriginal; for one of the old chroniclers, -in an account of a terrible battle with the Indians of Campeachy, -writing not long after the event, says that they made a most horrible -and deafening noise with these instruments: "They had flutes and large -sea-shells for trumpets, and turtle-shells, which they struck with -deer's horns." - -[Illustration: PREPARING FOR THE BALL.] - -"'After the banner was spread, the band ran around it in a crouching -attitude; in one hand each held a rattle, and in the other a fan of -turkey feathers, with a handle formed by the foot and claw of the bird. -Each one wore a wire mask, with a handkerchief over his head, and a -mantle embroidered with figures of animals, and hung with small -sea-shells. The costume was that of the mestizo women--a skirt from the -waist to the ankles, with their peculiar dress over it--just such an one -as was worn by their ancestors centuries ago, and by the ancient -Egyptians. On their feet they wore sandals, tied on with hempen rope. -The chief was distinguished by a high crown of peacock feathers. He -chanted something in the Maya language, and they replied, and then the -music struck up a weird strain and they danced furiously, assuming -ludicrous postures, yet all having seeming significance, shaking their -rattles and fans to right and left, and all keeping perfect time. After -nearly half an hour of dancing they stopped at a signal from the chief, -and gathered about the banner, gazing upon the image of the sun with -looks of adoration. - -"'This was the dance of sorrow or supplication; after it came the dance -of joy, an Indian fandango; then the flag was furled and the floor -occupied by two couples.'" - -Their night in the round of balls caused our friends to sleep rather -late the next morning. While they were at breakfast an invitation came -to visit a henequin hacienda near the city, in the company of one of the -owners, to whom they had been introduced. It is hardly necessary to say -that they accepted at once. - -[Illustration: A VOLAN COCHÉ.] - -They were to start at an early hour on the following morning, and at the -appointed time a _volan coché_ was announced at the door. Frank's -description of this vehicle will be interesting to our readers. - -"It is the travelling carriage of Yucatan, and well adapted to the bad -roads of the country. It consists of a shallow box on two wheels, the -box being suspended on leather springs and having a thick mattress -spread over the bottom and just filling it. One or two Europeans form a -load for one of these carriages, but it will easily hold half a dozen -natives of assorted sizes. There are no seats; one is obliged to lie at -full length or sit Turkish fashion, and hold on with one or both hands. -Doctor Bronson says the volan coché is warmly recommended for -dyspeptics, as it is guaranteed to kill or cure them in a very short -time. - -"The driver sits on the foot-board, very much as in a Canadian calèche, -and if there is any baggage it is piled on a projecting frame behind the -passengers. The carriage has a top to shelter passengers from sun and -rain, and there are curtains to be let down or rolled up as one may -wish. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN MERIDA.] - -"Three mules are the regulation team for a volan coché. They are -harnessed abreast, and under the control of a vigorous driver they get -over the roads with commendable rapidity, when all things are -considered. There is a great deal of swing to the vehicle, and it -overturns occasionally, though not often. The roads of Yucatan are not -at all good; one man told us they were made by Cortez three and a half -centuries ago, and have never had a dollar of expenditure for repairs -since they were constructed." - -As our friends went to the door they met their host, who had just -descended from the carriage and was ready for them. Frank and Fred -wondered if all four of them, the host and his three guests, were to -ride in one coché, and while the wonderment continued another vehicle of -the same kind came dashing around the corner. - -Their entertainer, Mr. Honradez, suggested that Doctor Bronson and -himself would ride in one carriage, while the two youths occupied the -other. As they were to spend a night at the hacienda, each of the -travellers carried a small hand-bag, and these articles, added to some -cushions which Mr. Honradez had thoughtfully placed in the seatless -vehicles, added considerably to the comfort of the ride. - -Away they dashed along the rough streets of Merida and out through the -thickly shaded suburbs. They met dozens of natives bringing into the -city loads of country produce to sell in the market-place; the bearers -bent beneath their burdens, and many of them had travelled all night in -order to reach the city in the morning. The most conspicuous of these -porters were the sellers of _ramon_, the branches of a tree that serve -as food for horses and mules, which eat the leaves and twigs of ramon as -they do grass or hay. According to its bulk, the stuff is very light, -and a ramon-seller is completely hidden beneath his apparently enormous -but really comfortable load. - -"Mr. Honradez made things interesting," said Fred, "by getting up a race -between our two carriages. He promised two reals to the driver who would -get first to a village which he named, and the fellows went at it in -earnest. They stood up on the shafts of their vehicles and yelled at -their mules; at the same time they were not sparing of their whips, and -the result was that the poor beasts went at a furious gallop for a mile -or more. Our driver got in advance, and as we saw that the race would be -kept up as long as the teams could run, Frank and I suggested to him -that we would give him three reals to let the other man win. He -immediately accepted the offer and dropped to the rear, shouting -something in Maya to his competitor as the latter passed him. After that -we went on at a more respectable pace, and were heartily glad that the -breakneck speed was not kept up. - -"At the village, the name of which I have forgotten, we rested ten or -fifteen minutes and then went on, reaching the hacienda just as the -forenoon was beginning to be uncomfortably warm. The great heat of -Yucatan renders it desirable to make all journeys in the night as much -as possible, and hence our early start from Merida. - -[Illustration: A PRIMITIVE SUGAR-MILL.] - -"The hacienda covers a large area of ground, there being thousands of -acres devoted to the culture of henequin. Then there is a considerable -amount of sugar and corn grown on the place--enough for the use of all -the employés, and something more besides. In the sugar-making industry -the machinery is primitive, the cane being crushed in a mill propelled -by oxen in the old-fashioned way, and the sugar obtained from the juice -by the processes of half a century ago. The real profit of the hacienda -is in the production of fibre, and in this the latest machinery is in -use. The old process of making fibre by hand is altogether discarded as -unprofitable, and the stripping of the leaves of the henequin is -performed by great machines built in the United States or England, and -driven by a powerful steam-engine of American make. - -"The machinery is not at all complex, and it is evident that no great -ingenuity was required to invent it. The scraper consists of a large -wheel armed with strong and blunt knives all around its rim. The -henequin leaves are pressed against this rim, and by means of a lever, -worked by the hand and foot of an Indian, the knives, drawn by the -swiftly revolving wheel, remove in an instant the pulp which covers the -fibre and lay it bare. Considerable dexterity is required for this work, -and we looked on in admiration at the deftness of the Indian who -performed it. - -"The pulp being removed, the fibre is taken from the leaf in long strips -like a 'hank' of very fine silk thread of a beautiful green tinge. It is -made into small bundles and placed in the sun to dry. In drying it loses -its color and becomes white and silky, and when thoroughly dried it is -ready for baling. The only care requisite in the drying process is to -see that it does not get wet by the rain, and that all its natural -moisture is expelled. Unless this is the case it will ferment after -baling, and fermentation means a great reduction in the commercial value -of the article. - -[Illustration: RAILWAY-STATION IN THE HENEQUIN DISTRICT.] - -"We watched the machine turning out the fibre, and then went to the -baling-house, where the stuff was being put up by a cotton-press into -bales of about 450 pounds each. In this condition it is shipped to -market; one scraper, requiring the labor of four men to tend it, will -produce about one bale of fibre daily, provided the leaves are of fairly -good size and quality and the workmen are not novices. The average value -of henequin fibre is about $20 a bale, delivered at the nearest -railway-station; of course it has its ups and downs, like any other -commodity in the world." - -After our friends had looked at the machines and partaken of a hearty -breakfast--the fact is that the breakfast came before the inspection of -the scraping and baling departments--they took a siesta, according to -the custom of the country, until the cool hours of the afternoon. Then -they mounted horses and accompanied Mr. Honradez in a ride over the -estate and through the fields of henequin plants. As they rode along, -and paused occasionally to contemplate objects of especial interest, the -gentleman explained some of the features of the business. - -[Illustration: STOREHOUSE AT THE HACIENDA.] - -"If you have decided to go into an enterprise of this sort," said he, -"you must first get your land by buying it from the Government or a -private owner, who is generally the descendant of somebody who obtained -an immense grant in consequence of some real or fancied service to the -Spanish Crown. The land is covered by a sort of scrub, which must be -cleared away. The clearing is effected by cutting and burning, the -cutting being done one season and the burning the next. Then the young -plants are set out in holes dug in the thin soil; they are set about -eight feet apart, and take root at once. You have doubtless learned -already that the plants are in condition for cutting when they are five -years old, and will yield leaves annually for fifteen or twenty years. A -good planter will so arrange it that new plants are constantly coming to -maturity; and this he will do by setting out a certain quantity of new -ones every year." - -Frank asked how many leaves were required for a bale of fibre. - -"From six to eight thousand," was the reply, "according as they are -large or small. Their size depends considerably upon the amount of rain -which falls in the few weeks preceding the time they are cut." - -"Is all the fibre made at the hacienda sent out of the country?" queried -Fred. - -"Not literally all," said the gentleman, "but for practical purposes the -whole of it is exported. Four-fifths of our product is sent to the -United States, where it is used for cordage, bagging, and many other -things of the same sort, and most of the rest to Europe. There are two -or three small factories here in Yucatan for making coarse cloth, ropes, -and twine out of the fibre; they are owned by Americans or Englishmen, -and their machinery is of foreign make, mostly American. With the -exception of the overseer, engineer, and machinist, all the employés are -natives, many of them being mestizo girls, who are as skilful as the -girls of any other country in tending the looms where the cloth is -woven. These factories purchase their fibre from the haciendas, but -their consumption is small. The Indians use a great deal of fibre in -making articles for their personal needs, but they generally scrape it -by hand. They are very conservative, and if permitted to have their own -way they would destroy every machine in the country before sunset -to-morrow." - -[Illustration: A MORNING RUN.] - -It was evening before the ride was concluded, and the party returned to -the hacienda, where a dinner of substantial character awaited them. Of -course Mr. Honradez insisted that there was "no money in the business," -and said he would be glad to sell out for less than what his estate had -cost him. But Fred made a mental note of the fact that he did not name -any price at which he would sell, and that he lived in princely style -both at the hacienda and in Merida. He had two sons at school in Paris, -a daughter was being educated in Merida by a specially imported -governess, and the gentleman himself spent a good half of his time in -other countries. From these facts, and from information of various kinds -that reached them, the youths concluded that the henequin culture was -profitable; and in this view they have many supporters both in the -country and out of it. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI. - -FIRST NIGHT IN THE HAMMOCKS.--INSPECTING A _CENOTÉ_.--UNDERGROUND -WATERCOURSES AND LAKES.--HOW CENOTÉS ARE FORMED.--A SUBTERRANEAN -BATH-HOUSE.--A _NORIA_.--WATER TAX ON A DIRECT SYSTEM.--NATIVE -SUPERSTITIONS.--A LIZARD THAT SHAKES HIS TAIL OFF.--BITING A SHADOW, AND -WHAT COMES OF IT.--JOURNEY TO THE RUINS OF UXMAL.--A HEETZMEK.--YUCATEO -MODE OF CARRYING INFANTS.--BREAKFAST AT A HACIENDA.--GARDEN AT -UAYALKÉ.--EATING TROPICAL LIZARDS.--FRED'S OPINION OF LIZARD -STEWS.--BEES OF THE COUNTRY.--SUPERFLUOUS INDUSTRY OF YUCATEO -BEES.--EVENING PRAYER AT A HACIENDA.--ARRIVAL AT UXMAL. - - -"Would you like to see a _cenoté_?" said Mr. Honradez, just before our -friends retired for the night. - -"Certainly," replied Doctor Bronson for himself and the youths, while -the latter wondered what a cenoté was. - -[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE HACIENDA.] - -"Well, I'll show you one in the morning," was the reply. Then there was -an exchange of wishes all around for a pleasant slumber, and in a little -while everybody was in bed, or rather in hammock. Our friends had -brought their hammocks as part of their baggage, and when they were -ready to retire they found those useful articles stretched in the -corridor of the principal dwelling of the hacienda, in a place that -afforded ample ventilation. - -Whether it was owing to the expected cenoté or the unrestful character -of a night's novitiate in a hammock we are unable to say, but the youths -were up somewhat earlier than usual and eager to begin the day. Doctor -Bronson was not far behind them, and they did not have to wait long for -their host. When he appeared he was followed by a mozo carrying an -armful of towels, and after a hearty greeting led the way to a small -house at a little distance from the stables of the hacienda. - -Fred suggested to his cousin, while their host was in conversation with -Doctor Bronson, that the cenoté was probably some kind of game, and they -would quite likely have it for breakfast. "Perhaps," said he, "they keep -it alive and kill it when wanted, and this house may be the place where -it is shut up." - -"I think it's something to wear," replied Frank, "and the house is the -store-room. Possibly, though, it's some kind of vegetable like celery or -onions. Anyway, we'll find out soon." - -They were speedily enlightened on the subject. On reaching the house in -question, Mr. Honradez explained that it was the entrance to a private -cenoté of his own. - -"You are already aware," said he, "that there are no rivers in Yucatan, -and have learned from experience that we have plenty of water, -notwithstanding the absence of streams. Beneath the calcareous formation -on which the whole of the peninsula stands there are streams and lakes -of water, which are reached through natural or artificial openings in -the surface rock. These openings, whether natural or artificial, are -called cenotés, and some of them are of great depth. Sometimes they are -mere pits or wells, and, on the other hand, there are cenotés which form -large grottos with lakes of considerable area. The water is clear and -cool and entirely wholesome. We use the cenotés for obtaining our supply -of water and also for bathing. - -"This is our bathing-house," he continued, "and I've brought you here -for your morning bath. You will find bathing-trousers in the rooms, and -can undress and come down as soon as you like." - -He showed them the way into their dressing-rooms, and then disappeared -into a room of his own. When the youths reappeared, in appropriate -costume, their host called to them from somewhere down in the interior -of the earth, and they proceeded in the direction of the voice. - -[Illustration: AN UNDERGROUND WALK.] - -By a sloping and slippery stair-way cut in the rock they descended some -thirty-five or forty feet till they reached a pool of clear water over -which the rock rounded in a high dome nearly to the surface. A hole two -or three feet in diameter and covered with an iron grating opened in the -centre of the dome, and gave light enough to show the interior of the -place very fairly. Many stalactites hung from the roof, and stalagmites -stood up wherever they could find standing room. From the grotto where -our friends found themselves little nooks and small grottos opened, so -that the spot was by no means unattractive. Numerous lizards clung to -the rock or swam in the water; and these crawling and slimy things took -away many of the merits the bathing-place might have possessed. - -[Illustration: FORMATION OF STALACTITES.] - -"The lizards do no harm," said Mr. Honradez, "but they are not pleasant -to look at, and we would gladly drive them out if we could. There is a -curious bird called the 'toh' which lives in the cenotés; it has a soft -plumage, and sports a long tail of only two feathers, which have nothing -on their stems until the very tip is reached. If you look sharp you may -possibly see an eyeless fish similar to the fishes which are found in -the Mammoth Cave in Kentucky." - -The youths looked in every direction, and though Frank thought he saw -one of these strange members of the finny tribe he was unable to capture -it. Frank asked if the cenotés communicated with each other or were -separately supplied from the rains sinking into the ground. - -"We cannot say that all of them are connected," was the reply; "but it -is certain that some of them are. Many contain streams with perceptible -currents, and it has been observed that at times the cenotés are full of -alligators, while at others none can be found there. As the alligator -cannot pierce its way through solid rock, there must be channels which -connect with large bodies of water where the alligators live." - -At the suggestion of alligators Frank and Fred intimated that they did -not care to stay long in the water, and their search for eyeless fish -was abandoned in favor of the larger game. Mr. Honradez laughed, and -said there was not the slightest danger, as no alligator larger than a -rat could possibly make its way into the place where they were, as all -the entrance channels were very small. - -Thus reassured, they remained tranquil, and enjoyed the plunge and swim -in the cool water. Meanwhile their host explained that these sources of -water supply had been known from very ancient times; long before the -Conquest the inhabitants built their towns near the water-holes, and at -the present time any one desiring to establish a hacienda seeks first a -good cenoté, and locates his buildings near it. - -On returning from the bath the host showed them the well which supplied -the hacienda with water. Peons drew the water in buckets at the end of a -long rope passing over a windlass, and poured it into a large trough, -whence it was taken by the servants from the kitchen, or allowed to flow -in pipes to the engine-house, stables, or wherever else it was needed. - -[Illustration: AT A NORIA.] - -"In nearly every village throughout Yucatan," said Mr. Honradez, "you -will find a well of this sort in the public square; it is called a -_noria_, and the usual mode of drawing water is by an endless rope -passing over a wheel and carrying small buckets. These bring up the -water from below, and as they turn over the wheel they pour their -contents into a trough. The system is almost an exact copy of that in -use in Egypt centuries before Yucatan was heard of. The rude machine is -propelled by a mule walking in a circle and driven by a boy. The mule is -invariably an old one, fit for no other work, and sometimes a horse or -ox, likewise old and poor, is found in its place." - -"I suppose the village pays for the mule and the driver," one of the -youths remarked. - -"Yes," was the reply; "and the payment is by direct taxation. Every -person who takes a jar of water is expected to leave a handful of corn -in payment. This corn goes for the support of the boy and the animal, -and to judge by the condition of the beast, the lion's share of the tax -is taken by the boy." - -The conversation about the curious wells of Yucatan came to an end with -several stories concerning them. One was that in the town of Tabi there -is a large cenoté which shows down in the depths of the water when the -sun is at the meridian the perfect figure of a palm-tree, trunk, leaves, -and all being fully delineated. In another town there is a cenoté where, -according to the early chroniclers, any one dies instantly who enters -the water without holding his breath. It is needless to say that bathing -there is not at all popular. Other subterranean pools contain poisonous -lizards which cause violent and even fatal headaches by merely biting -the shadow of any person who passes them. Another lizard, when wounded, -is said to throw its tail at its assailant; it detaches and throws it a -distance of several yards, and if it strikes the flesh will cause death. -Many of the cenotés are reputed to be the haunts of demons and fairies, -the bad spirits being much more numerous than the good ones. - -In the cool hours of the afternoon our friends started on their return -to Merida, and late in the evening drew up in front of the hotel. Their -host urged them to remain a week or two at the hacienda; with the -politeness customary to the country, he told them that the place and -everything about it were theirs--a declaration which was certainly in -earnest, so far as a prolonged visit was concerned. But they were -anxious to continue their investigations of Yucatan, and having already -arranged to go to Uxmal with an American gentleman residing at Merida, -were unable to remain longer with Mr. Honradez. - -[Illustration: AT HOME IN MERIDA.] - -The second morning after their return they started for the ruins of -Uxmal, which are about sixty miles from Merida. Doctor Bronson and Mr. -Burbank, his American friend, rode in one volan coché, and Frank and -Fred in another. A cart with the needed supply of provisions and cooking -utensils had left on the previous day, and was to meet them at Uxmal, -which contains no hotel or other accommodation for travellers. Lodgings -are taken in some of the deserted and ruined buildings; and with a -suitable equipment and a supply of food, one can get along very -comfortably. - -The road presented the same scenes as the one they had taken a few days -before, and therefore does not need special description. At the first -village on the road the vehicles halted to allow the panting mules to -take breath and water, and our friends descended from their cramped -positions to stretch their limbs. Mr. Burbank spoke a few words to some -of the natives that gathered around them, and then asked the strangers -to go with them to see a _heetzmek_. - -[Illustration: SCENE OF THE HEETZMEK.] - -Wondering what a heetzmek was, they followed to a house a few yards -away, where a woman was walking around the dwelling carrying a very -young child astride her hip. Having completed the circuit, she repeated -it again and again, till she had walked five times around the dwelling, -carrying the child as before. - -"This is a ceremony which corresponds to the christening of infants in -other countries," said the gentleman. "The woman that you see is the -baby's godmother; the position in which the Yucateos carry their -children astride the hip is like that of India and some other Asiatic -countries. The heetzmek is performed when the infant is about four -months old. - -"The natives believe in the magic of the number five. You have seen the -woman walk five times around the house as she carries the child. Five -eggs have been buried in hot ashes, and as they break they will rouse -the five senses of the infant; if they fail to open, it will be of only -ordinary intelligence, but their breaking will insure extraordinary -mental ability." - -"Probably," remarked Frank, "they take good care to have the ashes hot -enough to make sure that the eggs will burst." - -"If they are as intelligent as they want the child to be, they certainly -will," replied Mr. Burbank. "In addition to the egg test there is a -further ceremony of putting into the infant's hands the implements it -will use when matured. The godmother is held in great respect by the -whole family, and especially by the child for whom she has stood -sponsor." - -The heetzmek over, the journey was continued, the mules having rested -sufficiently. - -It was nine o'clock in the forenoon, and about twenty-five miles of the -journey had been made when the walls of the hacienda of Uayalké came in -sight. The appetites of the youths were on a keen edge, and Frank -remarked to Fred that he could breakfast off the hind-leg of a donkey, -if only that ordinarily unattractive viand were presented. - -"I think I scent breakfast," responded Fred. "They are famed for their -hospitality in Yucatan, and we'll probably find what we want at this -hacienda." - -His prediction was verified, for hardly had he ceased speaking when the -foremost carriage turned towards the yard of the hacienda, followed very -naturally by the other. The drivers unhitched their mules beneath a -wide-spreading tree in front of the residence of the manager, and -proceeded to make themselves at home. The _mayordomo_ came out and -welcomed the strangers, and without waiting for a suggestion from Mr. -Burbank, whom he knew, he sent a servant to order breakfast. In a very -short time it was ready, and the travellers sat down; tortillas, -frijoles, stewed chicken, eggs, and fruit, disappeared in due course, -and the keen appetites were keen no longer. - -"How about the posterior limb of the _equus asinus_ now?" whispered Fred -to Frank, as they left the table. - -"_Non possumus_," was the only answer that occurred to Frank. His views -on the subject of edible things had materially changed in the last hour. - -The youths made note of the fact that the hacienda of Uayalké was a -large and evidently a very prosperous one. The manager told them that -they had several thousand acres of land in henequin, and there were more -than 1200 men and women employed about the establishment and in the -fields. The engines and machinery were more ponderous and powerful than -at the hacienda already described; and the buildings of the -establishment, together with the huts of the laborers, formed quite a -settlement. There was a deep cenoté, from which a troop of women were -drawing water, by means of a wheel, with buckets on an endless rope; as -fast as their jars were filled they carried them away in the direction -of the garden, where the water was used for keeping bright the orange -and other trees that cannot live without water. - -[Illustration: GARDEN OF THE HACIENDA.] - -The garden, thus invigorated, was like a spot of green in a desert, and -reminded the youths of some of the oases they had visited in their -Oriental journeyings. Frank compared it to Biskra, in the Great Sahara, -and Fred declared that he saw a striking resemblance to some of the -gardens at the edge of the Libyan Desert. Beyond the garden in every -direction was the dry and repellent land covered with the hardy -henequin, which needs no water, or but the merest trifle of it. - -They did not see an idler about the place, every one from the manager -down seeming to be fully occupied. Mr. Burbank said that no hacienda in -the whole country was better managed than this, and there was none where -the laborers were better satisfied with their employer and employment. -He added that here, as everywhere else in Yucatan, the laborers were -constantly in debt to the establishment, and therefore were unable to -quit work suddenly or "go on strike." A laborer who is in debt cannot -change employers, unless the new one assumes the responsibility of the -obligation to the old; and to bring this about requires considerable -negotiation. - -After a stay of two hours and more at the hacienda, the journey was -continued. Six or seven miles farther on the travellers reached the -cenoté of Mucuyché, and made a brief halt to examine it. The cavern is -about forty feet deep, and the entrance is surrounded by a garden kept -green by the water drawn from the never-failing source. Our friends -descended by means of steps cut in the rock. These steps were overhung -by stalactites, which furnished convenient holding-ground for nests of -swallows and hornets in great numbers. What particularly pleased the -youths was that they found here an abundance of the blind fishes that -they sought in vain in their first exploration of underground Yucatan. -There was the same abundance and variety of lizards and other creeping -things as before; some of them were of goodly size, and Fred learned -that they were iguanas, and that they often appeared at table. - -"I suppose you drive them away as soon as possible," he replied. "They -are not pleasant things to look at when one is eating." - -"On the contrary," Mr. Burbank answered, "the iguana is a delicacy of -which I have often partaken. He appears at table, not in his live state, -but after passing through the hands of the cook." - -[Illustration: NATIVE VILLAGE NEAR UXMAL.] - -Fred thought he did not want any iguana then or at any other time, and -his mind was firmly made up on the subject. His views changed two or -three days later when, after eating heartily of a delicious stew, which -secured the praises of both Frank and himself, he learned that the stew -aforesaid was nothing less than the despised iguana. He quietly remarked -that great allowance must be made for prejudice, and then dismissed the -subject. - -Two hours before sunset they reached a hacienda, where they received -the same cordial reception as at Uayalké. It had been intended to -complete the journey to Uxmal that day, but as the hour was late and -darkness would certainly overtake them before their destination could be -reached, Mr. Burbank decided to accept the pressing invitation of the -mayordomo to spend the night there. - -[Illustration: HUNTING THE IGUANA.] - -The mules were unharnessed and led away to the stables, where they were -bountifully fed on fresh grass cut and brought by the peons. There was a -fine garden here filled with all sorts of tropical trees; and not the -least interesting sight in the place was a large number of beehives of a -very primitive character. They were nothing else than sections of a -hollow log cut off with a saw, and the ends closed with dried mud, or -with boards fitted in, like the head of a barrel. - -[Illustration: WHAT PERFUMES THE HONEY.] - -Frank and Fred stood at a respectful distance as they looked at the -beehives. They were mindful of the proverb which refers to the prudence -of the burnt child; and having been stung by the honey insects on -several occasions, they did not wish a repetition of the experience. Mr. -Burbank walked fearlessly up to the hives and called to the youths to -follow him. - -"Please excuse us," replied Frank; "the bees may recognize you, as -you've been here before, but they don't know us." - -"Never mind _them_," the gentleman answered, with a laugh. "The bees in -this country are stingless, and you run no risk in making their -acquaintance." - -Thus assured, the youths advanced and found themselves unharmed. The -bees circled about them in great numbers, but "left no sting behind." -Mr. Burbank told them that the hives were emptied every six or eight -weeks, and thus the bees were kept busy the year round. Why they collect -honey in a country where flowers are perpetually in bloom he could not -understand. "It speaks well for the industry of the insect," he -remarked; "he has no occasion to work, and only does so from the force -of ancestral habit. He has some imitators among the human race, but by -no means so generally as many of us might wish." - -While discussing the subject of bee-keeping in Yucatan they were called -to supper, which was an excellent one, of purely Mexican character. -Turtle soup, chile con carne, frijoles, tortillas, and other national -dishes were served in abundance, and the meal ended with honey from the -beehives which they had investigated. Frank and Fred had observed a -delicious fragrance as they entered the room where supper was served, -and were unable at first to discover its origin. All the scent of the -finest flowers of Yucatan seemed to be gathered there. They looked -around for floral baskets or bouquets, but none were visible. When the -honey was served they found that this it was which furnished the -fragrance, and they asked Mr. Burbank about it. - -"You are quite right," he answered; "it is the perfume of the honey that -fills your nostrils. In some seasons of the year it is much greater than -now; it spreads over the whole house, and is as powerful as musk or any -other famous perfume of the Old World." - -[Illustration: THE SIERRA FROM THE GARDEN OF THE HACIENDA.] - -Just as they rose from the supper-table the bell of the chapel rang for -_oracion_, or evening prayer, which was attended by our friends and all -the laborers and everybody else about the establishment. When the -service was ended each of the worshippers said "_Buenos noches, señor_" -(good-night, sir) to each of the strangers. Everybody went early to bed, -and by nine o'clock the whole place was in the deepest silence. This -remark will not apply to all seasons of the year; during the periods of -_fiestas_, or festivals, late hours are generally kept, and early rising -is not assiduously practised. - -The hammocks of the travellers were slung in a corridor, and the free -circulation of air and the coolness of night, together with the fatigues -of a long ride over rough roads, insured sound sleep. In the morning -chocolate was served before six o'clock, and a little after that hour -the carriages were on their way. No direct payment for the hospitality -of the hacienda was in order, but indirect compensation was made in the -shape of fees to the mayordomo and the servants who had waited upon the -strangers. - -Soon after leaving the hacienda the road ascended, and Frank ascertained -from the driver, who spoke Spanish fairly, that they were climbing the -sierra, a hilly ridge hardly worthy the name of mountain, though called -so by courtesy. It is the highest ground of Yucatan, and therefore the -inhabitants are to be excused for calling it a mountain, as they would -otherwise be without one. - -From the top of the ridge they looked over a considerable area of -country covered with the scrub forest for which the country is noted, -and dotted here and there with the ruins of cities, which indicate the -existence of a numerous population in previous centuries. Down the other -side of the ridge they went at breakneck pace, the cochés being tossed -from side to side with such violence that the youths were compelled to -hang on with both hands to prevent being thrown out and left by the -road-side. Several times the vehicle narrowly escaped overturning; and -this, too, close to chasms where an upset would have sent them almost -perpendicularly down a hundred feet or so, and reduced vehicle, mules, -passengers, and baggage to an average value of fifty cents a bushel. And -the curious thing about the whole business was that on reaching level -ground the driver reined in his team and proceeded at a more dignified -pace. - -[Illustration: SIDE OF ANCIENT ALTAR.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII. - -A ROMANTIC LEGEND.--HOW THE KING WAS OVERCOME BY THE WITCH.--VISITING -THE DWARF'S HOUSE; ITS POSITION AND PECULIARITIES.--HOUSE OF THE NUNS; -ITS EXTENT AND CONSTRUCTION.--_CASA DEL GOBERNADOR_.--DESTRUCTIVE -AGENCIES AT WORK.--AT HOME IN A ROYAL PALACE.--MAYA ARCHES.--TROPICAL -TREES AND PLANTS.--DOUBLE-HEADED DOG OF UXMAL.--GARAPATAS AND THE -ANNOYANCE THEY CAUSED.--INSECT PESTS OF YUCATAN.--DR. LE PLONGEON AND -THE STATUE OF CHAC-MOOL.--GHOSTS AND GHOST STORIES.--BIRDS OF -YUCATAN.--AN ANCIENT WATERING-PLACE. - - -[Illustration: ARCHWAY OF LAS MONJAS, UXMAL.] - -At nine o'clock they reached the hacienda of Uxmal, where they were -invited to breakfast. The invitation was accepted, and immediately after -the conclusion of the meal the party continued to the ruins, which were -about a mile farther on. The mayordomo invited them to make the place -their home as long as they were in the neighborhood. Mr. Burbank gave an -evasive answer to the invitation, at the same time earnestly thanking -their host for his courtesy. To decline absolutely might seem a -rudeness, and to accept would not accord with their arrangement to live -at the ruins of the ancient city. - -[Illustration: HACIENDA OF UXMAL.] - -On reaching the ruins the party halted to consider what should first be -investigated. Doctor Bronson asked the youths if they had any -suggestions to make, whereupon Frank intimated that he desired above -everything else to visit the Dwarf's House. - -"Why so?" queried the Doctor. - -"On account of the very pretty legend connected with it," replied Frank. -"It is given by Stephens, Charnay, and others who have been here, but -the best form of it is by Mrs. Le Plongeon." - -Then he read the following from "New and Old in Yucatan:" - -"'During the reign of a certain Maya king there lived a woman who was -both feared and respected, for she was a wonderful sorceress. A son was -born to her, and he became a great favorite, for he was good and clever, -though very small--in fact, a dwarf. Finally he became so -popular--probably the people fawned on him to please the formidable -witch--that the King grew jealous, and sought his destruction by giving -him difficult tasks, so that, failing, he might be accused of -disobedience. But, thanks to his mother, the boy always succeeded. - -"'One day the King, out of patience, ordered the boy to build in one -night a high mound and a house on the top. The youth was at his wits' -end, but went, as usual, to seek maternal aid. "Oh, mother, mother! I -shall surely die, for the King has ordered me to do more than I can -possibly accomplish;" and he told her his trouble. - -"'"Never mind, my child, don't be alarmed. In the morning the house will -be there." - -"'It was, and from that day to this has been called the Dwarf's House. -The King was enraged. He sent for the dwarf. "I am greatly pleased with -the house. Now I want to break six cocoyoles" (small and _very_ hard -cocoanuts about the size of a walnut) "on your head, and then I will -give you my daughter in marriage." - -"'The dwarf declined to accept the offer on these conditions. The -monarch insisted. "I want you to marry my daughter, and you must accept -my conditions." - -"'Again the poor dwarf sought his mother in despair. "There is no hope -for me now." - -"Oh yes, there is," replied the clever witch. "You go back to his -Majesty and tell him that you accede to his request provided he -afterwards allows you to break six cocoyoles on his own head." - -"'And to this the King publicly agreed, because he was determined to -kill the dwarf with the first cocoyol. - -"'Then the sorceress rubbed her son's head with something that made it -so hard nothing could possibly hurt it. - -"'The King arrived, and the dwarf, in the presence of all the people, -laid his head on a stone. With another the King broke the cocoyol on the -head of his intended victim--broke all six of them--but the dwarf rose -unhurt. - -"'Then it was the turn of the monarch to lay his proud head down, and as -his scalp was not prepared, the dwarf broke his skull, and thus got rid -of his enemy. The agreement had been faithfully carried out, so the -public had nothing to say. The dwarf then married the princess and -became king.'" - -Of course the marriage of the dwarf to the princess was the end of the -story, and Frank so intimated. As the Dwarf's House was visible from -where they stood--in fact it is the most prominent object as the ruins -are approached--the party went to it at once. - -"It stands on an artificial mound about 100 feet high," wrote Fred, in -describing the visit, "and therefore was quite a task for the dwarf to -accomplish in a single night. Do you doubt the truth of the story? Well, -here is the mound with the house upon it, and anywhere around here you -may gather cocoyoles in whatever number you like. Could there be any -further proof needed than these facts? - -[Illustration: DWARF'S HOUSE AND EAST WING OF THE CASA DE LAS MONJAS.] - -"We climbed to the top by a broad staircase of stone, and it was by no -means an easy climb. The steps are narrow and some of them have become -displaced, so that we were all tired enough to sit down when we reached -the house. The tradition is that when the priests threw the bodies of -the victims of sacrifice from the altars they rolled to the bottom of -the steps without stopping. The staircase is very wide, sixty or seventy -feet; and this great width, combined with the narrow steps, makes it a -dangerous one to ascend. A single misstep would send one rolling -downward, like the sacrificial victims. - -"The house was evidently a place of worship, and in this respect -corresponds to the teocallis of the Mexicans, which we have already -described. Although generally known as the Dwarf's House, it is -frequently called the House of the Prophet; and there is a tradition -that prophecies were issued from it, as from the temples of ancient -Greece and Rome. - -"It is seventy feet long and twelve wide, and is covered with sculpture, -some of it greatly injured by time, while the rest is well preserved. -There are many hieroglyphics that form an interesting study for the -archæologist. Several travellers have given translations of them, and I -believe that each one is able to demonstrate that his predecessors were -all wrong. We will not attempt to decipher them, as we do not wish to -run the risk of our work being overturned by the next comer. - -"The building has three rooms; Doctor Bronson says that some of the -sculptures on the walls of these rooms are masonic symbols, and he -wonders if the race that erected the building were acquainted with the -mystic rite. Who can tell? - -"Lower down is a sanctuary of two small but very high-ceiled rooms, and -having some fine sculpture on the outside. Over the entrance of the -sanctuary is the carved head of a mastodon, showing that the people were -acquainted with that animal, or at all events had his correct likeness. -There are masonic emblems on a cornice that extends around the -sanctuary, and on the lower part of the cornice are rings cut in stone, -from which curtains were suspended during the ceremonies that were -performed inside the building. - -"We spent an hour or more inspecting the building and its sculptures, -and then gave quite a little time to the magnificent panorama that was -revealed from the top of the mound; indeed we had considerable enjoyment -of it while resting from the fatigue of the ascent. - -"The pyramid rises from a plain, and at the elevation where we stood or -sat we embraced with our eyes a wide area. All the principal buildings -of Uxmal were at our feet, and we looked and listened attentively while -Mr. Burbank pointed them out. - -"Nearest and to the west is the _Casa de las Monjas_, or 'House of the -Nuns,' but whether it was really a nunnery or is only called so for -convenience we are unable to say. On a broad and high terrace to the -south is the _Casa del Gobernador_, or 'House of the Governor,' and -there is a building close by called the 'House of the Turtles.' Turtles -did not live there, but figures of them are on the sculptures that adorn -the building. There were several other heaps of ruins, of which I noted -the names of only two, the 'House of the Old Woman,' and the 'House of -the Pigeons.' - -"When we had finished our inspection of the Dwarf's House we descended -the steeply sloping pyramid, picking our way very carefully to avoid -accidents. Except where the stones are so thick as to afford no clinging -ground for vegetation, the sides of the mound are covered with bushes, -which are occasionally cut away by the proprietor of Uxmal. - -[Illustration: FAÇADE OF WEST WING OF CASA DE LAS MONJAS.] - -"We went first to the House of the Nuns, which is a building about 280 -feet square, with a large court-yard in the centre. There is a high -gate-way on the south side by which we entered the house; the house has -eighty-eight rooms or apartments opening into the court-yard, but no -doors opening to the outside. As we entered the court our attention was -drawn to the sculptures on the interior façades of the building; on one -side there is a representation of two enormous serpents, so immense in -size that they run the whole length of the edifice, their exact -measurement being 173 feet. Their bodies are twisted together, and in -the spaces between the folds are many strange hieroglyphics. We seemed -to be once more in India, or some other Eastern country, where serpent -worship once prevailed and is by no means unknown at the present day. - -[Illustration: GROUND-PLAN OF LAS MONJAS.] - -"Mr. Burbank told us that the ruins have suffered a good deal in recent -years, and at the rate they are being destroyed there will be little -more than a few heaps of rubbish remaining here when the next century -begins. Nearly every visitor to them thinks he must carry away -something, and most people are not at all particular about defacing the -hieroglyphics or other sculptures. A large quantity of stone has been -taken from the ruins for building purposes at the Uxmal hacienda; and -the Indians do not seem to have any reverence, or but very little, for -the homes of their by-gone ancestors. There are the usual traditions -about buried treasures in the buildings, and every little while somebody -tries to find them. Nothing of value has ever been discovered, but the -digging that forms a necessary part of every search is a serious injury -to the sculptures and walls. - -"The hand of man is ably aided in the work of destruction by the -tropical vegetation; around the building it is so thick that all access -would soon be cut off if the rapidly growing mass were not occasionally -cut away in places where paths are desired. The roof is overgrown with -yuccas and other plants, that convert it into a sort of hanging garden; -their roots, swelling in the crevices between the stones, are rapidly -breaking down the walls and converting the whole into a shapeless mass -of ruins." - -[Illustration: CASA DEL GOBERNADOR.] - -The next spot of interest was the Casa del Gobernador, which has been -alluded to in Fred's account of the view from the top of the pyramid. -Our friends went there and found not only an extensive ruin, but what -was of practical importance, the servants that had been sent on in -advance from Merida with the cart and camping equipments. They had -already taken possession of the best rooms in the house, and were -clearing them out for occupation. - -One room served for kitchen and servants' quarters, and the other for -parlor, dining-saloon, dormitory, _salon de conversacion_, -reception-room, library, café, art-gallery, and wardrobe. A flat stone -made a very fair table, and other stones served in place of chairs; -hammocks were slung by means of ropes from one wall to another, and -altogether the place was comfortable enough for a temporary home. - -The kitchen apparatus was not extensive, but it sufficed for the -preparation of satisfactory meals, doubtless rendered appetizing by the -exercise which the strangers were getting in the open air. In the -middle of the day it was too hot to wander about a great deal; the time -was passed in writing, reading, or possibly in the siesta, for which all -tropical and semi-tropical countries are more or less famed. - -[Illustration: GROUND-PLAN OF CASA DEL GOBERNADOR.] - -It fell to Frank to speak of the Governor's House, which he did as -follows: - -"The Governor's House, or Royal Palace, as it is also called, is on the -uppermost of three terraces (it could not well be on either of the lower -ones), and is 322 feet long by 39 in depth. The building is about 25 -feet high, and had a flat roof. Some of the ceilings were supported by -triangular arches, and others by beams; the beams have rotted away and -disappeared, but the stone arches remain intact. The roof was originally -covered with cement. The ancient Mayas seem to have possessed a very -good quality of cement; but it was hardly equal to that of some of the -Eastern nations. - -"The top of the building is overgrown with yuccas and other plants, just -like the House of the Nuns, and from the top of each of the three towers -small trees shoot high into the air. There is not much ornament on the -lower part of the walls, but the upper portion is profusely decorated; -it is thought that the walls, as high as the cornice, about ten feet -from the base, were covered with stucco or cement; and this has been -removed by the climate, or possibly torn off during the wars that may -have prevailed here. - -"The cornice runs around the building just above the three door-ways -that give entrance to the place. Above this cornice the whole wall is -covered with sculpture, and I can best describe it by copying what was -written by Stephens nearly fifty years ago: 'There is no rudeness or -barbarity in the design or proportions; on the contrary, the whole wears -an air of architectural symmetry and grandeur; and as the stranger -ascends the steps and casts a bewildered eye along its open and desolate -doors, it is hard to believe that he sees before him the work of a face -in whose epitaph, as written by historians, they are called ignorant of -art, and said to have perished in the rudeness of savage life. If it -stood at this day on its grand artificial terrace in Hyde Park, or the -Garden of the Tuileries, it would form a new order, I do not say -equalling, but not unworthy to stand side by side with, the remains of -Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman art.' - -"One of the interesting features of the Governor's House and other -buildings of Uxmal is the 'Maya Arch,' which is formed without a -key-stone. The sides are built up with stones projecting one beyond the -other, and a flat stone is laid across the top. In spite of its -violation of the principles on which builders say the arch is based, the -work of the Mayas has withstood the ravages of time to a remarkable -degree. Specimens of this arch are found here in the Governor's House, -and in other parts of Uxmal; in fact they can be seen at Palenque, -Chichen-Itza, and other historic places in Yucatan and neighboring -countries. The archway of Las Monjas is an admirable specimen of this -work, and we send you a photograph of it so that you may judge for -yourself. - -[Illustration: STATUE OF DOUBLE-HEADED DOG, UXMAL.] - -"There was formerly a stone figure here representing a double-headed -dog, but it has been carried away. It was found in a mound of earth at -the corner of the second terrace, and not far from the House of the -Turtles. While we were walking about the terrace Mr. Burbank cautioned -us not to fall into one of the ancient reservoirs, or storehouses, which -are much easier to enter than to leave. They are a sort of stone jug on -a colossal scale--vaults or cisterns ten or twelve feet square and as -many deep, with an opening two feet across at the top. - -"A friend of his fell into one of these jugs while incautiously walking -about. He was stout in figure, and slipped into the hole, with no -surrounding space to spare. When they came to get him out it was -necessary for him to remove the greater part of his clothing in order -that he could be hoisted from his prison; and even then the work was not -accomplished until the sides of the opening had been greased. At any -rate, that's the story Mr. Burbank told us. - -[Illustration: DECORATIONS OVER DOOR-WAY OF CASA DEL GOBERNADOR.] - -"We have mentioned the House of the Turtles, which is so called on -account of a row of turtles ornamenting its façade. It is on the corner -of the second terrace, and is supposed to have been the kitchen of the -Palace. Fred thinks that if it was really a kitchen the ornamentation -will go far to prove that the governor, whoever he was, had a fondness -for turtle soup, like a good many governors of modern times. Wouldn't it -be funny if turtle soup should prove to have had its origin in Yucatan? -Doctor Bronson says that though the Yucateos may have had the article, -they did not invent it, as turtle soup was known to the ancient Romans -many centuries ago." - -Frank and Fred found that a residence in a royal palace had its -drawbacks, especially when night came and the bats appeared in large -numbers. Furthermore, there were lizards and other creeping things in -great abundance, and some of them were especially repulsive. - -One of the worst annoyances of their visit to Uxmal was that whenever -they moved about they became covered with garapatas. The garapata is a -tick so small that it is hardly perceptible to the naked eye, but it is -capable of making a bite or sting like that of a red ant or a hot -needle. Frank and Fred were reminded of their troubles in Ceylon, when -they became covered with land-leeches in their journey to Adam's Peak. -Mr. Burbank told them that the best antidote to the garapatas was to -rub one's body with petroleum before venturing where the insects -abounded, and that they should change their clothing every time they -came in from a walk. - -Here is Frank's note concerning these pests of Yucatan: - -"They cause a frightful itching, and whenever the fangs of the insect -break off in the skin, and they do so very often, the wound is liable to -fester and be some time in healing. Their attentions are not confined to -humanity; they attack dogs and other animals, and the poor creatures are -sometimes killed by them. M. Charnay gives an account of how a pet dog -belonging to the wife of the consul at Merida suffered from the bites -of these insects while out one day in the country. The little animal -rolled on the grass and howled in agony, but the garapatas kept on with -their biting as though it was all fun to them." - -[Illustration: AN UNWELCOME VISITOR.] - -Fred asked Mr. Burbank how many kinds of insects, troublesome and -otherwise, Yucatan could boast, but the gentleman was unable to say with -any exactness. "There is enough of them to go around," said he, "among -the whole population, and some varieties go around with surprising -activity when the heat and languor of the climate are considered. And if -you camp out and sleep on the ground you may quite possibly be roused by -a snake trying to get into bed with you and coiling around your arm or -leg." - -Our young friends were especially ambitions to discover a statue or some -other interesting relic of the by-gone race, and so make themselves -distinguished as explorers. But their inquiries as to the possibility -and advisability of such a proceeding were greatly discouraged when they -learned of the experience of Dr. Le Plongeon. - -[Illustration: STATUE OF CHAC-MOOL.] - -"You doubtless saw the statue of Chac-Mool, the god of fire, in the -museum at the capital?" said Mr. Burbank. - -"Certainly," replied Fred. - -"Well," continued Mr. Burbank, "Dr. Le Plongeon found that statue at -Chichen-Itza, where he made extensive excavations at his own expense. It -was nine feet in length--too large to be hidden in his coat-pocket, or -in any other ordinary way--and therefore he could not take it out of the -country. The Government claims all antiquities, no matter by whom they -are found, and the officials immediately took possession of Dr. Le -Plongeon's 'find,' and paid no attention to his protest. - -"The same explorer dug up a statue here in the summer of 1881, and -describes it as the finest ever discovered in Central America. He and -his wife were working alone when the treasure was unearthed, and with -the recollections of the Chac-Mool experience before them, they -immediately covered up the precious discovery, and removed all trace of -their work. - -"Learning wisdom by their experience, I would advise against any serious -expenditure of time and money in exploring the remains of Uxmal or any -other of the sixty or more ruined cities of Yucatan. If you find -anything of value it will go into the hands of the Mexican Government -and adorn the museum at the national capital. Antiquities of no value -can be taken to New York or elsewhere after paying certain duties upon -them for exportation." - -Frank and Fred thought the advice excellent, and thanked Mr. Burbank for -it. They confined their investigations to making sketches and -photographs of the sculptures, and measuring the buildings and the -apartments in them. They did not undertake any digging operations, and -listened calmly to the stories of the natives concerning the vast amount -of treasures supposed to be concealed in the ruins of the buildings. - -It may be remarked here that the natives were very unwilling to remain -around the ruins at night, and all of them who could do so hurried to -the hacienda of Uxmal immediately after sunset. They believe that the -ghosts of the former occupants revisit the ruins at night, and treat -with great severity any one whom they find there. - -In support of their belief they told several stories of how Indians who -had ventured to spend the night in the ruins had disappeared and no -trace of them had ever been found. In other cases their dead bodies were -found in some of the rooms of the old buildings, and in each instance -the marks on their throats showed that they had been strangled at the -hands of the ghosts. A dead Indian was found in a tree-top, where it was -impossible to have climbed, or been placed by human hands; the inference -was that the ghosts had killed the rash man, and then carried his body -into the tree-top as a warning to future intruders. - -For cooking and drinking purposes our friends obtained water from a -small pond, or _aguada_, which is supposed to have been the -watering-place of Uxmal in the days of its glory. It is now partly -overgrown with aquatic plants, and is a favorite haunt of the birds, or, -rather, one of their haunts, as there are several ponds in the -neighborhood of the ruins. - -By skilful use of a shot-gun, which formed part of their outfit, the -youths obtained several ornithological specimens, which they carefully -skinned and preserved. Like the majority of tropical birds, their -plumage was brilliant, that of the crimson flycatcher being especially -so. Coots were numerous, and formed an agreeable addition to the bill of -fare of Uxmal, though our friends were unanimous in the belief that the -coots of Yucatan were far behind their namesakes of the Northern States -in the matter of edibility. - -[Illustration: MAYA ARCHES.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII. - -A CHAPTER ON ARCHÆOLOGY.--NUMBER AND EXTENT OF THE RUINED CITIES OF -YUCATAN.--MAYAPAN, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL.--PYRAMID OF MAYAPAN.--AKÉ AND -ITS _PICOTÉ_.--AN ANCIENT WHIPPING-POST.--PYRAMIDS AT AKÉ.--HISTORICAL -CONUNDRUMS.--KABAH AND ITS MOUND.--SCULPTURE OF A MAN ON -HORSEBACK.--CHICHEN-ITZA.--CHURCH, NUNNERY, CASTLE, AND TENNIS-COURT AT -CHICHEN.--EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF THE SCULPTURES.--STORY OF THE CONQUEST -OF CHICHEN.--SKILFUL RETREAT OF THE SPANISH CAPTAIN.--OTHER RUINED -CITIES.--IDOLS OF COPAN.--PROBABILITIES OF CITIES YET TO BE DISCOVERED. - - -As before stated, the most interesting of the mined buildings of Uxmal -are the Dwarf's House, the House of the Nuns, and the Governor's House, -and these three we have already described. The ruins of other cities are -not far away, and when they had finished with Uxmal our friends -proceeded to visit those that were the most convenient. The information -obtained in their personal explorations, added to what they gathered -from residents of the country and the books already mentioned, was -embodied in the following joint work of Frank and Fred: - -[Illustration: YUCATEO SCULPTURE.] - -"There are not less than sixty ruined cities in Yucatan whose location -is known; who can tell how many more are hidden in the dense forests of -the rarely visited country of the rebellious Indians, and awaiting the -efforts of the explorers? - -"To describe all these ruins would be a difficult task; and besides, it -would be dreary reading for anybody who is not an eager student of -archæology. We will touch only upon some of the most important. - -[Illustration: GREAT MOUND AT MAYAPAN.] - -"About thirty miles from Merida are the ruins of Mayapan, which is said -to have been the ancient capital of the country. They are spread over an -extensive plain, and though covering a considerable area, are less -interesting than the ruins of Uxmal. The ground is covered with a dense -growth of trees and plants, and every explorer who devotes any attention -to Mayapan is obliged to incur quite an outlay for labor in cutting -paths and clearing up the ground. We did not go there, but gathered our -information from a gentleman who has been on the spot several times. - -"He told us that the most conspicuous object at Mayapan is a pyramid, -not unlike that on which the Dwarf's House at Uxmal was built. It is -100 feet square at the base, and about sixty feet high; it is ascended -by a stone staircase similar to that of the pyramid of the Dwarf's House -and about twenty-five feet wide. There is no building on the top of the -mound, only a stone platform, and explorers do not agree as to whether -there was ever any edifice there or not. Excavations have been made at -several places in the mound, and subterranean chambers discovered. Their -use cannot be positively determined; of course there are the usual -stories about the concealment of treasures within the mounds, but -nothing has ever been found there. - -[Illustration: CIRCULAR EDIFICE AT MAYAPAN.] - -"It is the general belief that most of the buildings of Mayapan were of -wood or sun-dried brick, instead of stone, as most of them have -disappeared. There is one curious-looking edifice still in position--a -circular structure twenty-five feet in diameter, and standing on a -pyramidal foundation thirty-five feet high. If you want a detailed -description of it look in Baldwin's 'Ancient America,' where there is a -picture which shows how it looks to-day. - -"Dr. Le Plongeon made an extensive and careful study of Mayapan, which -is supposed to have been founded by the Mayas in the fifth century. -There was a constant warfare for centuries between the rulers of Mayapan -and Uxmal, and the fortunes of war alternated from one to the other. -According to the chronicles, King Cocom of Mayapan, with all his sons -but one, was murdered by his nobles in 1446, nearly a hundred years -before the Spaniards conquered the country, and fifty years before -America was discovered by Columbus. When the Spaniards came they found -Mayapan in ruins, and the early Spanish writers obtained the traditions -concerning it from the people in the surrounding country. - -"The Mayas say that the first man of the human race was made out of -earth and grass, the former supplying his flesh and bones, and the -latter his skin." - -At this point Frank asked if the "greenness" of many members of the race -was attributable to their grassy origin, as given by the Mayas. Fred -dismissed the question as trifling and irrelevant, and then the history -proceeded. - -"Dr. Le Plongeon was convinced that the Mayas had a knowledge of -astronomy, as he found two stone columns on the platform of the mound -with a line marked in the pavement between them. These columns, or -stelæ, are perfectly 'Oriented' according to the points of the compass, -and by means of them the hour of the day could be told, and also the -time of the sun's declination. The apparatus was similar to that of the -ancient Egyptians and Chaldeans; the Mayas divided their astronomical -year into twelve months of thirty days each, and added five days when -the sun reached its greatest declination and was said to be 'at rest.' - -"The doctor found in the ruins of Mayapan a stone slab bearing -inscriptions which referred to the god of fire; these inscriptions seem -to have been identical with those of the ancient Egyptians for their sun -god, and of the Assyrians for their corresponding deity. Certainly it is -a very curious circumstance that these people, so far apart in time and -distance, seem to have hit upon the same form of worship and of -astronomical calculations. - -"We will leave Mayapan now and turn to another ruined city called Aké. -These ruins are about the same distance from Merida as those of Mayapan, -the former lying to the east and the latter to the south. They are on a -hacienda belonging to Don Alvaro Peon, who is always ready to facilitate -the visit of any one who desires to explore the ruins. - -[Illustration: SCULPTURED HEAD OF YUCATAN.] - -"The ruins include those of several large buildings, which are presumed -to have been palaces, a small pyramid and a large one, together with -some other structures, all grouped around an open space or plaza. In the -centre of this plaza is a stone pillar called a _picoté_; and what do -you suppose was its use? - -"It was a stone of punishment, or whipping-post; it was in use -throughout this country both before and after the Conquest, and, in -fact, it is not unknown to-day. The culprit was stripped and tied to -this post and then publicly whipped, very much as in some of the United -States within the memory of men now living. M. Charnay says there is a -picoté in use to-day at the Indian village of Tumbala, near Palenque, -and presumably it can be found in other Indian villages. The funny part -of the business is that the Indians believe a sound thrashing at the -picoté makes a man's conscience clean, and to secure such a state of -mental affairs they often come forward and ask to be whipped when nobody -knows of anything to entitle them to punishment. - -"We don't care for any picoté just now, and so we'll drop it. There is -at Aké a small pyramid about forty feet high, and built of large stones -that were put together without cement. There was once a house on top, -but it has crumbled away, and the sides of the pyramid are a good deal -dilapidated. Then there is a large pyramid with a broad top, and on this -top are three rows of stone pillars about ten feet apart one way and -fifteen feet the other. The esplanade on which these pillars stand -measures fifty by two hundred feet; the pillars are built up of flat -stones about three feet square by fifteen inches thick, and there are -ten stones in each perfect pillar. We have said there are thirty-six -pillars, but only twenty-nine are standing, and from several of these -some of the stones have been displaced. - -[Illustration: PILLARS OF GREAT GALLERY, AKÉ.] - -"Now, what was the use of these pillars? This is a conundrum that has -excited all visitors, and nobody has been able to make an explanation -that has not been overthrown by some one else. Some have argued that the -pillars and the stones of which they are composed were intended to mark -certain epochs of time; one writer says the pillars were built up by -placing single stones there at intervals, so arranged that each pillar -would take 200 years for its construction. According to this theory, the -erection of the thirty-six pillars would cover a period of 7200 years, -and thus make the foundation of the edifice older than that of the -oldest of the pyramids of Egypt. - -"Opposed to this theory is that of the explorers who believe the -pillars, or columns, were the supports of the roof of a temple. The -roof, they say, was of perishable material and disappeared ages ago, but -the stones remain. The columns are from fourteen to sixteen feet high, -and the work of putting the stones in place was by no means small. The -builders understood architectural principles, and that they lived and -died long, long ago there can be no doubt. When it was that they lived -no one has yet been able to say positively. - -"In some of its features this great pyramid of Aké is one of the wonders -of Yucatan. The platform on which the columns are ranged is reached by a -stone staircase that seems to have been built for giants. It measures -137 feet from one side to the other, the steps are more than four feet -from front to rear, and each step is sixteen inches high. When you bear -in mind that the steps of a staircase of modern construction are usually -about nine inches high, you will understand what a 'getting upstairs' it -is to ascend this great pyramid. - -"A fierce battle was fought here between the Spaniards and Mayas at the -time of the Conquest, and the remains of a Spanish fort or redoubt can -be distinctly traced. - -"From Aké we will turn to Kabah, which lies a few miles to the south of -Uxmal. Kabah was a large and very old city. How large it was nobody can -say exactly, as a dense forest covers the site, and a great deal of -cutting is required to visit any part of it. Every fresh visitor to -Kabah discovers something new whenever and wherever he penetrates the -forest. Some of the recent explorers have found many ruined buildings -that escaped the observation of Stephens, who thought he had examined -the entire extent of the city. - -[Illustration: HEAD OF INCENSE-BURNER.] - -"There is a stone-faced mound at Kabah nearly 200 feet square at the -base, and with a row of ruined apartments all around it. A few hundred -yards from the mound is a terrace about twenty feet high and measuring -150 by 200 feet on the top. There is a ruined building on this esplanade -which was evidently of great beauty and large proportions when it was -built. It was beautifully ornamented, according to the account of Mr. -Stephens, who says, 'The cornice running over the door-ways, tried by -the severest rules of art recognized among us, would embellish the -architecture of any known era.' He calls attention to the fact that -while at Uxmal the walls were smooth below the cornice, those at Kabah -were covered with decorations from top to bottom. - -"In addition to the mound and the terrace Mr. Stephens described three -other large buildings, which he thought must have been palaces. One of -them was three stories in height, each story being narrower and shorter -than the one below it. It was 147 feet long by 106 wide, and built in a -manner that would be creditable to any architect of any age or country. - -"Another building on a high terrace was 164 feet long but quite narrow -in proportion, and a peculiarity of it was that it had wide door-ways, -with pillars in the centre for support. One terrace 800 feet by 100 was -found, with several fine buildings upon it. The work of making the -terraces alone, without considering the buildings, must have been -something enormous. But all trace of the builders has gone, and no one -can tell to-day what is their history. - -[Illustration: MAYA SCULPTURE (PROFILE).] - -"A few years ago (June, 1881), Mr. Aymé, the American Consul at Merida, -visited Kabah and made a remarkable discovery. He found on one of the -walls of a ruined building a rude painting of a man mounted on a horse. -As the horse was unknown in Yucatan until after the arrival of the -Spaniards, M. Charnay argues from this discovery that the ruins of Kabah -are not of great antiquity, and that the painting was made during or -since the Conquest by a native artist. On the other hand, Dr. Le -Plongeon argues that the work is of very great age, and he refers to -some of the hieroglyphics in proof of his belief. - -"You can take your choice between two experts, one placing the age of -the painting at less than 400 years, and the other at two or three -thousand years and perhaps more. For our part we prefer to believe in -the one who maintains that Kabah was an old city when the Romans built -the Coliseum, and had begun to decay long before Mohammed founded the -religion of Islam. - -[Illustration: RUINED ARCH AT KABAH.] - -"We must not forget to mention a beautiful arch at Kabah which is -wonderfully suggestive of the triumphal arches of the Romans and other -European nations. It stands apart from the other structures, and this -fact leads explorers to believe that it was built to commemorate an -important event in the history of the people or of one of its rulers. -The centre of the arch has fallen in, but the massive columns remain and -show that it was firmly built. The arch is not the straight-sided one of -the Mayas, but curves like the Greek and Roman arch. What a pity the -crown is gone, so that we do not know whether it was built with a -key-stone or not! - -[Illustration: FAÇADE OF EL CASTILLO.] - -"From Kabah let us go to Chichen-Itza. We will go in imagination rather -than in reality, as the ruins are in the region of the rebellious -Indians, and it isn't safe at all times to venture there. Let us call -the place Chichen 'for short.' - -[Illustration: BASS-RELIEF, CHICHEN-ITZA.] - -"It lies about thirty miles west of Valladolid, which was once a -prosperous city and contained the first cotton-mill ever erected in -Yucatan. Valladolid was deserted at the time of the rebellion of the -Indians in 1846, and has never regained its former population. The ruins -of Chichen cover an area of about two square miles, and have been -explored by Stephens, Norman, Charnay, Le Plongeon, and others; and the -historians say that the Spanish army that conquered Yucatan occupied the -ruins and found them useful as a fortification against the Indians. - -"There is a building at Chichen which resembles the House of the Nuns at -Uxmal, and has the same name. It seems to have been erected at different -periods, and some of the explorers think a portion of it was altogether -destroyed and afterwards rebuilt, as the style of architecture is -different. The ornamentation is more elaborate than that of the House of -the Nuns at Uxmal. Over the door is a medallion representing a priest -with a head-dress of feathers; and there is a row of similar heads -running around the whole length of the frieze of the northern façade. -The upper story is ornamented with panels cut into the stone, and having -a raised figure in the centre. You can best understand this design if -you look at a picture which we have taken from 'The Ancient Cities of -the New World.' - -"Connected with this building is one which the Spaniards call the -Church; it has only one room, and is twenty-six feet long by fourteen -wide and thirty-one high, and the outside is covered with carved -ornaments. Not a great way from it is a circular building twenty-two -feet in diameter and sixty feet high, and having four doors that are -placed exactly towards the cardinal points of the compass. The building -is on a mound, and is approached by a grand staircase forty feet wide -and having a balustrade formed of bodies of serpents twined together. -Serpents have a prominent place in the ornamentation of Chichen, as they -appear in one form or another on nearly all the buildings. - -[Illustration: DOOR-POSTS IN TENNIS-COURT.] - -"A very interesting building is the one which Stephens called the -Gymnasium or Tennis-court. It consists of two parallel walls 30 feet -thick, 274 feet long, and 120 feet apart, and in each wall there are -stone rings, or circles, four feet across, with holes one foot seven -inches in diameter in the centre. These holes are opposite each other -and twenty feet from the ground, and it is supposed that a game -something like tennis was played in the space between the walls. -Baldwin's 'Ancient America' says there were similar courts in other -cities of Yucatan and Central America, but no account of the games has -come down to us. - -[Illustration: CASA COLORADA.] - -"The Casa Colorada, or Red House, is a building that would be creditable -to the architects of any country and time, though it is not a large -edifice. It measures forty-three feet by twenty-three, and appears to -have been elaborately ornamented originally, but has been greatly -defaced by time, and also by the Indians, who formerly lived in the -vicinity. Before the Indian rebellion there was a town near Chichen -called Pisté; its inhabitants used to go to Chichen to practise shooting -against the ruined edifices there. Many of the buildings show the marks -of bullets, and it is probable that the people of that town caused quite -as much destruction as did the Indians. - -"But the most conspicuous of all the buildings of Chichen is El -Castillo, or The Castle, which stands on an artificial hill, and is -reached by a wide and long staircase, so overgrown with weeds and -brushwood as to make the climbing difficult. It is the building usually -occupied by explorers, as it offers a good place of defence against any -marauding bands of Indians; whether it was a castle or not in the olden -times is a question, but it has certainly served as one in the days -since the rebellion of the Indians. - -"This is a good place to repeat a story given by one of the Spanish -historians about an incident at the time of the Conquest. Under the -command of Montejo, an officer under Cortez, the Spaniards occupied -Chichen for two years, and were engaged in constant fights with the -Indians. Montejo lost 150 of the 400 men whom he took there originally, -and finally the Indians laid regular siege to the place, and pressed -Montejo so hard that he was forced to retreat. - -[Illustration: HEAD OF WAR-GOD, FROM COPAN.] - -"But it was no easy matter to get away, as the Indians would be sure to -fall upon the Spaniards in their flight, and probably destroy the entire -force. So they waited until a moonless and stormy night, and under cover -of the darkness managed to get away and be several hours on the road -before their absence was discovered. - -"In order to deceive the Indians, Montejo caused the feet of the horses -to be muffled with cloths, and lest they might find by the silence that -the place was evacuated, he left a dog tied to a pole on which were a -bell and a piece of meat. Every time the dog tried to reach the meat he -rang the bell, and thus the Indians supposed all the while that the -Spaniards were still behind the walls of Chichen. It was not until -daylight that they discovered their mistake, and then there was not time -to overtake the fugitives before they reached the territory of a -friendly chief. - -"Let us return to the Castle of Chichen. The pyramid on which it stands -is 175 feet square at the base, and 68 feet high; the staircase is -thirty-nine feet wide, and contains ninety steps. The building is about -forty feet square and twenty-one feet high, and its internal -arrangements show that it was probably a temple, like most of the -edifices of similar character throughout Mexico. - -"The walls of the Castle are covered with inscriptions and sculptures, -and the greater part of them forcibly remind the visitor of the work of -the ancient Egyptians. The columns which support the sanctuary present -bass-reliefs of men supposed to be priests; and these figures are -repeated on the walls along with other sculptures. And to make a long -story short, and avoid the risk of being tedious, we will say that all -the buildings of Chichen are elaborately ornamented. Tradition is that -when the Spaniards came here there were many mural paintings in -beautiful colors, but the pious invaders thought it their duty to -destroy these pagan symbols, and so covered them with stucco and -whitewash! Had they left them alone we might have learned much more than -we now know about the ancient inhabitants of Yucatan. - -[Illustration: IDOL OF COPAN (FROM STEPHENS).] - -"We haven't space to describe all the sculptures, or even a quarter of -them, but must refer anybody who is interested in the subject to the -books of the explorers. And we must do the same for the other ruined -cities of Yucatan and the countries near it; Palenque with its palace, -Copan with its great wall and its wonderful idols and other sculptures, -Tikal with its temples constructed of large blocks of stone laid in -cement, each merits a separate chapter, but we have no room for it. - -"The same may be said of other places, and it is quite possible that -there are dozens of cities buried in the tropical forests of which -absolutely nothing is now known. We may hope for a revelation of the -mysteries of the ancient cities of the New World whenever the work of -discovery is undertaken on an extensive scale. - -[Illustration: DECORATION OVER DOOR-WAY.] - -"Explorations have hitherto been made by individuals, whose means did -not permit the employment of a sufficient number of men for clearing -away the dense undergrowth and making the necessary excavations. The -natives are not well disposed towards explorers, and, as we have already -seen, some of the ruined cities are in the regions where the Indians are -in control. There is a large area which is practically unknown, and can -only be opened up by a force of men sufficiently large to take care of -itself against all local opposition. Only by the liberality of wealthy -men and societies, or aided by the arms of disciplined soldiers, can the -work be thoroughly accomplished." - -Here the youths closed their account of the antiquities of Yucatan. -Frank carefully read what they had written, and as he paused at the end -of the narrative, Fred remarked, - -"Perhaps we may have an opportunity some time to make the explorations -we have suggested." - -"Let us hope so," replied Frank, with a "far-away" sigh as he spoke. - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV. - -CENTRAL AMERICA AND THE REPUBLICS COMPOSING IT; A SKETCH OF THEIR -HISTORY; AREA AND POPULATION.--SNAKES, LIZARDS, AND OTHER CREEPING -THINGS.--COSTA RICA AND ITS REVOLUTIONS.--A PRESIDENT WHO COULDN'T -READ.--HONDURAS AND ITS RESOURCES.--VISIT TO TEGUCIGALPA.--YUSCARAN AND -ITS MINERAL WEALTH.--UNFORTUNATE FINANCIERING.--INTERESTING SOCIAL -CUSTOMS.--INTEROCEANIC CANALS; THEIR PRESENT STATUS.--THE NICARAGUA -CANAL; SURVEYS, ESTIMATES, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE; PROBABLE -ADVANTAGES TO THE WORLD'S COMMERCE; TERMS OF THE CONCESSION; ESTIMATED -COST, REVENUES, AND SAVING OF DISTANCES.--FAREWELL TO MEXICO.--THE END. - - -After completing their description of the ruined cities of Yucatan, -Frank and Fred looked around for something new to occupy their -attention. They were not long in finding it. - -"I wish we could extend our journey to Central America," said Fred. - -[Illustration: IN A CENTRAL AMERICAN FOREST.] - -"So do I," answered his cousin, "but I'm afraid Doctor Bronson would not -consent. His plans do not include a journey farther south than Yucatan, -and besides, I don't think he would relish the idea of making a trip -through a region where the comforts of travel are as limited as they are -between here and Panama." - -They sounded the Doctor on the subject, but did not receive any -encouragement. His arrangements were such that he was to be in New York -by a date that would make it impossible to accomplish the proposed -journey. - -The youths cheerfully assented to the situation, and consoled themselves -by collecting a fair stock of information about Central America and -entering it in their note-books; Frank said this was the next best thing -to seeing the country for themselves. - -[Illustration: GOVERNMENT PALACE, SAN JOSÉ.] - -"Central America," wrote Frank, "is about 900 miles long, and varies -from 30 to 300 miles in width. It extends south about eleven degrees -from the eighteenth parallel of north latitude, and is therefore -entirely in the tropics. The geographers give it an area of 175,000 -square miles, and a population of something less than three millions, -the greater portion being native-born Indians. The whites and creoles -are nearly all of Spanish descent, as the country was conquered and -occupied by the Spaniards soon after the Conquest of Mexico." - -Fred suggested that a census of the snakes, lizards, birds, and beasts -of Central America would give a large population, as it was known to -abound in those things to a very liberal extent. He declared in advance -that he would not accept the office of animal census-taker, as he had -understood that the serpents were numerous and dangerous, as is the case -in tropical countries generally. - -"I was reading this morning," said he, "of a snake of the constrictor -species that was killed close to a hacienda where the writer of the -narrative was stopping. It was fourteen feet long, and not unusually -large of its kind. The people of the hacienda said it was fortunate that -the creature had been despatched, as it would quite likely have killed -one of the children; and they related many stories about babies being -swallowed by these serpents. - -"The same traveller, Mr. Wells, tells about a ceremony that he witnessed -where a tamagasa, one of the most deadly snakes of Central America, was -burned alive in the public square of a village. Two natives had found -the snake basking in the sun; one threw his poncho over the reptile -while the other held its head to the ground with a forked stick till its -mouth could be sewed up, so that it could do no harm. The snake was -about three feet long. The ceremony took place in the evening, and the -village priest pronounced a malediction upon the creature before it was -consigned to the flames. No remedy is known for the bite of this -serpent, nor for that of the taboba, another venomous product of Central -America." - -"To go on with the country," said Frank, when Fred paused at the end of -his snake story, "we will remark that Central America comprises five -republics which are independent of each other, Costa Rica, Honduras, -Guatemala, San Salvador, and Nicaragua. Down to 1823 they were colonies -of Spain; in that year they formed themselves into a federal republic of -States and declared their independence. They continued thus until 1839, -when they dissolved their federation and became independent of each -other. Since then they have united again on two or three occasions, but -have not remained so for any length of time. Several attempts at a -federation (one of them in 1888), have resulted in nothing. Now and then -the republics have wars among themselves, but the rest of the world goes -on as if nothing had happened, as the moon did when the dog barked at -it. - -"The governments of the States of Central America are republican in -form, modified by revolution and assassination; happily these -modifications are not applied as frequently nowadays as in former times, -but they are by no means unknown. To show how revolutions are started -and how they sometimes turn out, let us take a page from the history of -Costa Rica." - -[Illustration: CENTRAL AMERICAN LODGINGS.] - -Thereupon Frank read from "The Capitals of Spanish America" the account -of how the Government of that republic was overthrown, and a new one -established in 1871. Substantially it was as follows: - -The Congress of Costa Rica had caused a railway to be surveyed from -ocean to ocean across the State. It was necessary to seek foreign aid -for the construction of the line, and the two banking houses at San -José, the capital city, were rivals for the appointment of Government -agent to negotiate the loan. - -The defeated banker was, like his rival, an Englishman (married to a -Costa Rican lady), and the capital of his bank was English. In revenge, -and with a view to business, he determined to overthrow the Government -and set up one of his own. - -To this end he negotiated with a cowboy named Thomas Guardia, who had -made a reputation as commander of a small force of cavalry in a war with -Nicaragua, to head a revolution, under promise of money and position. -The army of the republic comprised about 250 men, and they were easily -overcome by Guardia, who assembled half that number of cowboys and rode -suddenly into San José one morning, capturing the whole place by -surprise. It was one of the "revolutions before breakfast," to which -Central America is accustomed. - -[Illustration: BANANA PLANTATION IN COSTA RICA.] - -Guardia imprisoned all the Government officials who did not run away, -and appointed himself Dictator. Among the fugitives was the -constitutional President, and therefore it was necessary to hold an -election for a new President, Guardia being made provisional President -until the election could be held. The English banker, who had started -the revolution, named his father-in-law as the candidate for President, -and it was expected that he would be elected without opposition. - -Guardia concluded, from his experience as Dictator, that it was not a -bad thing to be President, and when the election came off he ordered his -officers to secure the position for him, and leave the banker's -father-in-law out in the cold. He was unanimously elected; 2000 votes -were cast in a population of 200,000, and Guardia received them all. - -He was unable to read or write when he became President, but he was a -man of decided ability, called wise counsellors to aid him, did -everything he could for the advancement of his country, and altogether -made an excellent ruler for the little republic. - -[Illustration: DON BERNARDO DE SOTO, PRESIDENT OF COSTA RICA.] - -The present President of Costa Rica is Don Bernardo de Soto, who was a -favorite of Guardia, and is a man of good education. He graduated at the -college in San José, and completed his studies in Europe; and since his -elevation to the high office he has shown ability and intelligence in -the management of public affairs. - -During their investigation of Central America the youths met Mr. Wilson, -of New York, an old friend of Doctor Bronson's, who had just returned -from a visit to Honduras. He readily replied to all the questions that -were propounded by Frank and Fred, and his answers may be summed up as -follows: - -[Illustration: GEN. LUIS BOGRAN, PRESIDENT OF HONDURAS.] - -"I found Honduras very interesting," said Mr. Wilson, "and was sorry -that I could not remain longer. The country seems to have great promise, -as it is exceedingly fertile, and the mountain regions contain great -quantities of gold and silver. All tropical fruits grow there in -abundance, and there might be a large product of coffee and sugar. At -present the exports consist chiefly of cattle, mahogany, hides, and -rubber, of a total value of about two millions of dollars annually, and -the imports are nearly as much. The expenses of conducting the -government are not far from one million dollars a year, sometimes -exceeding the revenue, and sometimes falling below it. - -"Honduras has been unfortunate financially," continued the gentleman, -"as it contracted a loan in England for building a railway across the -country from ocean to ocean, and the greater part of the money went into -private hands and not in the most honest way imaginable. Twenty-seven -million dollars' worth of bonds were negotiated in London, under the -guarantee of the Government, and all that the country has to show for -this large amount of money is about sixty miles of poorly built railway. -Since 1872 the interest on this loan has not been paid, and probably it -never will be; in the negotiations the Government and the purchasers of -the bonds were deceived, and the country never obtained more than a -small fraction of the benefit that was promised. - -[Illustration: TEGUCIGALPA, CAPITAL OF HONDURAS.] - -"Negotiations are now going on for wiping out the debt by issuing new -bonds for a part of it, and creating a new loan by which the -Interoceanic Railway can be completed and other railways constructed. -The President of Honduras, General Bogran, is a man of great enterprise, -and has done much for the country since he took possession of his -office. His predecessor had built a fine boulevard from the capital part -way to the Pacific coast, but from that point there was only a -mule-track, the same that had been there for three hundred years. -General Bogran made a contract with some American engineers to build a -wagon-road from the coast to the end of this boulevard, and another from -the capital, Tegucigalpa, to Yuscaran, the centre of the principal -mining district." - -[Illustration: STREET IN YUSCARAN.] - -"Please tell us about the mines of Honduras," said Frank, as Mr. Wilson -paused for a moment. - -"Certainly, I'll do so with great pleasure," was the reply. "Honduras -was the first part of the main-land of North America visited by Columbus -and his companions, and as soon as Cortez had completed the conquest of -Mexico and established himself firmly on its soil he proceeded to the -subjugation of Honduras. From the time of the Conquest down to 1820 the -mines of Honduras yielded enormously of gold and silver; the Government -took as its share twenty per cent. of the gross product, and whenever a -district proved to be unusually rich the King acknowledged the -good-fortune by 'decorating' the place. This was a much more economical -proceeding than reducing the taxes or granting a sum in money for public -improvements. - -"Perhaps you don't understand me," said Mr. Wilson, as he observed a -puzzled expression on the faces of the youths. "When I was at -Tegucigalpa I examined some old documents in the Government library, and -came upon one containing the following paragraph: - -"'The flourishing state of the mining interests and the large returns -they brought the Crown influenced the King, so that on the 17th day of -July, 1768, there was given to the _pueblos_ (villages) of San Miguel, -Tegucigalpa, and Heredia the honorable title of _villas_ (cities).' - -"A decree of that sort is exactly like conferring a decoration on an -individual," continued the gentleman. "It costs nothing to the giver, -and makes the recipient proud of his distinction, at least that is -supposed to be the purpose of a decoration. - -[Illustration: OLD BRIDGE AT TEGUCIGALPA.] - -"To show you how rich were the mines of Honduras, let me instance the -Guayabilla mine in the Yuscaran district. It is about fifty miles east -of Tegucigalpa, and near the line of Nicaragua, at an elevation of 3250 -feet above the sea-level. In the old days the ore was so rich that the -owners of the mine did not reduce any that yielded less than sixty -dollars per ton, and after the mine was deserted $60,000 was obtained -from it by a gentleman who now lives in the country. From 1812 to 1817 -the King's fifths from this mine amounted to $400,000, so that in five -years the product of the mine was $2,000,000. In 1837 the mine had been -worked to a depth of 300 feet, when the miners were impeded by water. -Accordingly they prepared to abandon the mine, and did so by removing -the pillars for the sake of the ore they contained. Of course the mine -caved in soon after the pillars were removed, and the same was the case -with other mines that were similarly maltreated." - -Fred asked Mr. Wilson how many productive mines there were in Honduras -during the time of its occupation by the Spaniards. - -"As to that I cannot say exactly," was the reply, "but at a rough -calculation there were not fewer than fifty in the Yuscaran district -that were once active and paid royalties to the King. In the Choluteca -and Tegucigalpa districts there were fully 100 mines, so that we may -safely count 150 in all. Under the enlightened policy of President -Bogran Americans and other foreigners have interested themselves in the -mineral wealth of Honduras, and several of the mines are now being -operated with modern appliances, which give promise of great results. -Some of them are producing ore in such quantities as to fully justify -their former reputation. Under the old system there was no arrangement -for getting rid of superfluous water and foul air. Modern pumping and -ventilating machinery has been adopted, and the old annoyances that -hindered operations or suspended them altogether will be of -comparatively little consequence." - -"Please tell us something about Tegucigalpa, the capital city," said -Frank. - -[Illustration: STATUE OF MORAZAN, TEGUCIGALPA.] - -"It received its name," said Mr. Wilson, "from two Indian words -signifying 'mountain of silver.' It is about 3000 feet above sea-level, -and eighty miles from the seaport, on the Bay of Fonseca. It has -15,000 inhabitants, its houses are of adobe, and the streets narrow and -paved with stone. The most interesting structures are the cathedral and -an old bridge over the Rio Grande, the latter consisting of seven -massive arches that appear to be as strong to-day as when first erected. -In the public square there is a bronze equestrian statue of Francisco -Morazan, who is honored as the liberator of Central America, as Bolivar -is of South America. He was born in Honduras in 1799, was foremost in -the war of independence, became President or General-in-chief of the -Republic of Central America in 1835, was exiled in 1840, and -assassinated in 1842." - -"His history is not unlike that of the majority of patriots in Spanish -America," remarked Frank, as Mr. Wilson paused. - -Frank then asked about the people and their customs. Mr. Wilson said -they were not materially different from those of other Spanish American -countries. The dress of the natives is practically the same as that of -the natives of Yucatan, while that of the higher classes follows in a -general way the fashions of Paris. "While I was at Tegucigalpa," said -he, "I attended a fashionable ball, which was quite a social event, as -the President and his Ministers were there. The gentlemen were in -evening dress, as they would have been at a ball in New York, and the -ladies were robed as for an evening reception in Paris or London. - -"Upon entering the salon each guest was presented with handsomely -painted egg-shells by servants who carried them about on trays. These -shells were filled with gold and silver tinsel. Gentlemen broke them -over the heads of ladies whom they wished to favor with their -attentions, and the ladies did likewise towards the gentlemen. Nearly -all the ladies and some of the gentlemen carried atomizers filled with -perfumery. When one found an atomizer aimed at his face it was the -proper thing to stand firm, receive the spray without wincing, and then -join in the laugh which followed. The effect of the egg-shells and -atomizers was to make the party very sociable and agreeable and break -the ice of formality." - -Mr. Wilson was called away at this moment, and consequently the talk -about Honduras came suddenly to an end. - -[Illustration: BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE NICARAGUA CANAL.] - -Then the youths turned their attention to Nicaragua, and especially to -the proposed ship-canal which is to make use of Lake Nicaragua for a -part of its route. On this subject they questioned Doctor Bronson, and -received the following reply: - -[Illustration: PROFILE OF NICARAGUA CANAL.] - -"The idea of an interoceanic canal originated soon after the Spanish -Conquest. In 1550 Galvo, a Portuguese navigator, presented a plan for -such a canal, and pointed out four possible routes, those of Darien, -Panama, Nicaragua, and Tehuantepec, and it is a singular circumstance -that no other routes have been discovered since his time. The world's -commerce then and for more than 200 years afterwards was not sufficient -to justify the construction of a canal, and the first step towards such -a work was taken in 1779, when Lord Nelson seized the mouth of the San -Juan River, in Nicaragua, as a preliminary to the control of the river -and lake, and the opening of a water-way across the isthmus. - -[Illustration: A SECTION OF THE CANAL.] - -"Very soon after Lord Nelson's action a Spanish exploring expedition -arrived at the mouth of the San Juan, and the complications arising -between the English and Spanish Governments prevented any active -operations towards the making of the canal. In 1823 the President of -Nicaragua opened negotiations with the Government of the United States -with that object in view, but nothing was accomplished. In 1826 the -Government of Mexico made a preliminary survey of the Isthmus of -Tehuantepec to ascertain the possibility of a canal across it, and two -years later the Government of New Grenada permitted a survey of the -Isthmus of Panama for the same object. In 1844 Nicaragua gave a -concession to a Belgian company, which accomplished nothing; and in the -same year Louis Philippe authorized a survey of the Isthmus of Panama. - -[Illustration: RIVER SAN JUAN AT TORO RAPIDS.] - -"In 1849 an Irish adventurer published a book in England in which he -declared that he had crossed and recrossed the Isthmus of Darien several -times, and that there would be only three or four miles of deep cutting -for the entire distance. On the basis of this book, some English -capitalists sent an engineer, who made an equally rose-colored report -that resulted in the formation of an English company, with a capital of -$75,000,000. The engineer does not seem to have crossed the isthmus at -all, and only penetrated a few miles into the interior. The Darien route -was explored by Lieutenant Strain, of the United States Navy, in 1854, -who demonstrated that the reports of the English engineer were -'conspicuously inexact,' and a canal would cost very much more than his -estimates. - -"In 1849 negotiations between the Government of Nicaragua and our -Minister to that country led to the formation of an American company, of -which Commodore Vanderbilt was a stockholder, with the object of making -a canal by the Nicaragua route. Col. O. W. Childs and a staff of -assistants surveyed the route, but the enterprise was broken up by the -filibustering expedition of Walker, 'the gray-eyed man of destiny,' -which caused the Nicaraguan Government to revoke the concession. - -[Illustration: STREET IN GREYTOWN.] - -"From this time onward the interest of Americans in the canal project -continued active. Several exploring expeditions were sent out by -individuals and associations, Mr. Frederick M. Kelley, a wealthy New -Yorker, sending out four expeditions, and spending $125,000 out of his -own pocket. Between 1870 and 1875 the United States Government sent out -nine expeditions for the survey of canal routes between the Atlantic and -Pacific oceans, and altogether a valuable amount of information was -gathered on the subject. - -"In 1876 Lieut. Bonaparte Wyse obtained a concession from the Government -of Colombia for a canal at Panama. His concession was transferred to M. -De Lesseps, the famous builder of the Suez Canal; and you know all about -the history of the Panama Canal, as it has been recorded in the daily -newspapers and other publications. - -[Illustration: EL CASTILLO, SAN JUAN RIVER.] - -"An impartial consideration of the various reports upon the surveys of -all the routes has shown that the most favorable one for a ship-canal -from ocean to ocean is that across Nicaragua. This was the decision of a -commission appointed by President Grant, and consisting of Commodore -(since Admiral) Daniel Ammen, Chief of the Bureau of Navigation, Gen. -A. A. Humphreys, Chief of the United States Engineer Corps, and Mr. -C. P. Patterson, Superintendent of the Coast Survey. Briefly, their -report said: 'The Nicaragua route possesses, both for the construction -and maintenance of a canal, greater advantages, and offers fewer -difficulties from engineering, commercial, or economical points of view, -than any one of the other routes shown to be practicable.' - -"Careful scientific surveys have been made of the Nicaragua route. The -first was in 1872 and 1873, by Commander Hatfield and Commander Lull, of -the United States Navy; and the second, in 1880, by Civil Engineer A. G. -Menocal, also of the United States Navy. In 1884 the same officer, with -several able assistants, made another survey; with all the figures and -descriptions of the different surveys, the nature of the work to be -accomplished in cutting the canal can be readily understood." - -For further information Doctor Bronson referred the youths to the -printed reports of Mr. Menocal and Commander Lull, which he had in his -possession, and also to articles in _Harper's Weekly_ and _Harper's -Magazine_. Frank and Fred made a careful study of the subject, and the -substance of what they learned may be set down as follows: - -The route of the proposed canal will be entirely through the State of -Nicaragua, except for a small part of the eastern division, where it -will be on the south bank of the San Juan River, which is the dividing -line between Nicaragua and Costa Rica. The latter State has agreed to -all the conditions named by Nicaragua in its concession to the American -company that is undertaking the work, so that the question of boundary -will not interfere with the enterprise. - -In March, 1887, a contract was signed with the Republic of Nicaragua by -a representative of the Nicaragua Canal Association of New York, -securing to the association the exclusive right of way for the -construction of a ship-canal between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. -The company is allowed two and a half years from the date of the -contract for beginning operations; it has a grant of 1,000,000 acres of -land, and immunity from taxation and all imposts of every kind for a -period of ninety-nine years. It is believed that the entire work will be -completed and the canal made ready for the passage of ships within six -years from the commencement of the dredging and digging. - -[Illustration: VIEW ON LAKE NICARAGUA.] - -The length of the canal will be 170 miles from ocean to ocean. Of this -distance there will be 130 miles of navigation on Lake Nicaragua and the -San Juan River, leaving only forty miles for excavation or cutting. The -surface of Lake Nicaragua is 110 feet above the level of the sea, and to -reach or descend from this elevation there will be four locks between -each end of the lake and the ocean from which it is separated. The lake -is 110 miles long by 35 wide, and is a beautiful sheet of water in a -basin 8000 square miles in extent. The plans are for locks 650 feet long -and 65 feet wide, which will float any ship now in existence. - -[Illustration: MOZO IN FULL DRESS.] - -For convenience of description we will suppose the canal to be in three -divisions, eastern, middle, and western. The eastern division begins at -Greytown, on the Caribbean Sea, at the mouth of the San Juan River, and -extends to the Arroyo de las Cascades, a distance of nineteen and -one-half miles. This division contains sixty-three per cent. of the -excavation required for the whole canal; it will include the digging of -a channel through the low lands of the coast, and then through rising -ground and hills, where locks must be made to raise the canal to the -level of the lake. - -At the end of the eastern division a dam across the San Juan River will -fill the channel of that stream to a depth sufficient for the passage of -sea going vessels, and also create a lake, or basin, where ships may -pass each other, and also halt for repairs if any are needed. In some -places the river must be dredged to reach the requisite depth, but these -points are not numerous or difficult. The river is 1000 feet wide, so -that ships will have plenty of room for moving either way, and there -will be about eighty-three miles of river navigation from the dam to the -lake. - -On Lake Nicaragua the distance from the head of the San Juan River to -the beginning of the western division is fifty-six and one-half miles, -and here there is abundant depth of water except in one place where some -rock-blasting and dredging will be needed. - -Rio Lajas, on the western shore of the lake, will be the end of the -middle, or navigable, portion of the canal, and the beginning of the -western division, which extends seventeen and one-quarter miles to the -Pacific Ocean. On this division ships coming from the east will descend -by four locks, while those from the west will rise by the same means. -The last of the locks, the one nearest the Pacific, will have a varying -depth to accommodate itself to the rise and fall of the ocean tide, -which is about nine feet. The entrance of this lock will be of a funnel -shape, and a port will be formed by throwing out jetties on each side of -the little bay of Brito, and converting it into a secure harbor. - -At the eastern end of the canal jetties will be thrown out in the same -way to form a harbor at the mouth of the San Juan River close to the old -harbor of Greytown, which has been partially filled by the sands brought -down by the river, and has a depth of only twenty-one feet at its -entrance. The current of the river will be utilized for washing out the -entrance of this harbor, just as that of the Mississippi was utilized by -Captain Eads for deepening the passes of the great "Father of Waters" at -its mouth. - -Frank and Fred made careful note of the above, and then asked Doctor -Bronson how much it was expected the canal would cost, and how the -profits had been calculated. - -[Illustration: FORT SAN CARLOS.] - -"The estimates of the engineers," was the reply, "place the cost of the -whole work at $60,000,000 in round figures; some of them make it ten or -twelve millions less, but as estimates nearly always fall short of the -actual cost, we will suppose that the figures are $100,000,000. I think -it is safe to say the canal can be built for that amount of money." - -"How does that compare with the Suez and the Panama canals?" Fred asked. - -"The cost of the Suez Canal was $100,000,000, and it has been a very -profitable enterprise. Double that amount of money has been expended on -the Panama Canal, and only one-fourth the work is done; even if it -should ever be completed, the revenues cannot be sufficient to pay a -good dividend on the cost after deducting the running expenses. The -Nicaragua Canal will have a great advantage over the one at Panama, for -the reason that the latter is in the region of equatorial calms, while -the former is within the sweep of steady winds. Consequently the Panama -Canal will be of little use for sailing-ships, and they would all be -attracted to the Nicaragua route." - -[Illustration: NATIVE BOATS, LAKE NICARAGUA.] - -"What is the estimate of the amount of business of the Nicaragua Canal, -and the revenues from it?" queried Frank. - -"I can best answer that question," replied the Doctor, "by quoting from -a writer in _Harper's Magazine_. He says the wheat trade between our -Pacific coast and Europe requires a million tons of shipping, and as -each ship must pass twice through the canal, this trade alone would be -two millions of tons a year. The coasting trade between the Atlantic and -Pacific ports of the United States would add another million tons, and -the tea trade between Europe and China and Japan, the guano and nitrate -trade of South America, the whaling trade of the Pacific, the wool trade -between Australia and Europe, would altogether bring the business of the -canal up to five or six millions of tons a year. At two dollars a ton, -the toll that is charged by the Suez Canal, there would be a revenue of -ten or twelve million dollars without considering the growth of the -world's commerce from year to year. It is estimated that the running -expenses and repairs to the canal would not exceed half a million -dollars annually, so that there would be a good profit on the outlay of -$100,000,000." - -Fred asked what saving of distances would be effected by the canal. - -[Illustration: CENTRAL AMERICAN HACIENDA.] - -"Between the Atlantic and Pacific ports of the United States," was the -reply, "the saving would be 8000 or 9000 miles over the Cape Horn route. -From New York to ports in Asia and Australasia there would be a saving -of 500 to 3000 miles over any route except by Suez, and between Europe -and Japan sailing-vessels will save 3000 miles by taking the Nicaragua -route. There can be no reasonable doubt that the world's commerce will -be greatly benefited by the opening of the proposed canal, and in a few -years we may see it operated to its full capacity, of every year passing -eleven thousand ships from ocean to ocean." - -Fred was ready with another question, but before it was put a friend -called to tell them that a steamer for Havana and New York had just -arrived at Progreso, and would leave in a few hours. - -Nicaraguan canals and all other Central American subjects were dropped, -and preparations immediately made for departure. Already their farewell -calls had been made on friends and acquaintances at Merida, baggage was -quickly in readiness, they were at the station in ample time for the -train, and before sunset were on the deck of the steamer, which speedily -put her machinery in motion, and steamed away to the eastward. - -[Illustration: BIRDS OF NICARAGUA.] - -And so ended the tour of the Boy Travellers in Mexico. The land of the -Aztecs and Toltecs disappeared in darkness and distance, and when -morning dawned only sea and sky were visible from the deck of the -vessel. - -"Wonder what country we will see next?" said Fred. - -"Quien sabe?" was the laconic reply. - -THE END. - - - - -INTERESTING BOOKS FOR BOYS. - - * * * * * - -BOUND VOLUMES OF HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE for 1887, 1888, and 1889. -Handsomely Bound in Illuminated Cloth, $3.50 each. _Bound Volumes for_ -1880, 1881, 1882, 1883, 1884, 1885, _and_ 1886 _are out of stock_. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN MEXICO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to -Northern and Central Mexico, Campeachy, and Yucatan. With a Description -of the Republics of Central America and of the Nicaragua Canal. By -THOMAS W. KNOX. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN AUSTRALASIA. 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