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diff --git a/6104-h/6104-h.htm b/6104-h/6104-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8855822 --- /dev/null +++ b/6104-h/6104-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6044 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="us-ascii"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + Station Life in New Zealand, by Lady Barker. + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Station Life in New Zealand, by Lady Barker + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Station Life in New Zealand + +Author: Lady Barker + +Release Date: June 4, 2009 [EBook #6104] +Last Updated: February 1, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND *** + + + + +Produced by P. J. Riddick, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + STATION LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Lady Barker. + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h3> + 1883 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a href="#link2H_PREF"> Preface. </a> <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> + Letter I. </a> Two months at sea—Melbourne <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> Letter II. </a> Sight-seeing in + Melbourne <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> Letter III. </a> On + to New Zealand <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> Letter IV. </a> First + introduction to "Station life" <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> + Letter V. </a> A pastoral letter <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2H_4_0007"> Letter VI. </a> Society—houses + and servants <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> Letter VII. </a> A + young colonist—the town and its neighbourhood <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2H_4_0009"> Letter VIII. </a> Pleasant days at + Ilam <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> Letter IX. </a> Death + in our new home—New Zealand children <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2H_4_0011"> Letter X. </a> Our station home <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> Letter XI. </a> Housekeeping, and + other matters <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> Letter XII. </a> My + first expedition <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> Letter XIII. </a> Bachelor + hospitality—a gale on shore <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> + Letter XIV. </a> A Christmas picnic, and other doings <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> Letter XV. </a> Everyday station + life <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> Letter XVI. </a> A + sailing excursion on Lake Coleridge <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> + Letter XVII. </a> My first and last experience of "camping + out" <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> Letter XVIII. </a> A + journey "down south" <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> Letter XIX. + </a> A Christening gathering—the fate of Dick <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> Letter XX. </a> the New Zealand + snowstorm of 1867 <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> Letter XXI. </a> Wild + cattle hunting in the Kowai Bush <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> + Letter XXII. </a> The exceeding joy of "burning" <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> Letter XXIII. </a> Concerning a + great flood <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> Letter XXIV. </a> My + only fall from horseback <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> Letter + XXV. </a> How We lost our horses and had to walk home <br /><br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Preface. + </h2> + <p> + These letters, their writer is aware, justly incur the reproach of egotism + and triviality; at the same time she did not see how this was to be + avoided, without lessening their value as the exact account of a lady's + experience of the brighter and less practical side of colonization. They + are published as no guide or handbook for "the intending emigrant;" that + person has already a literature to himself, and will scarcely find here so + much as a single statistic. They simply record the expeditions, + adventures, and emergencies diversifying the daily life of the wife of a + New Zealand sheep-farmer; and, as each was written while the novelty and + excitement of the scenes it describes were fresh upon her, they may + succeed in giving here in England an adequate impression of the delight + and freedom of an existence so far removed from our own highly-wrought + civilization: not failing in this, the writer will gladly bear the burden + of any critical rebuke the letters deserve. One thing she hopes will + plainly appear,—that, however hard it was to part, by the width of + the whole earth, from dear friends and spots scarcely less dear, yet she + soon found in that new country new friends and a new home; costing her in + their turn almost as many parting regrets as the old. + </p> + <p> + F. N. B. <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Letter I: Two months at sea—Melbourne. + </h2> + <p> + Port Phillip Hotel, Melbourne. September 22d, 1865. .... Now I must give + you an account of our voyage: it has been a very quick one for the immense + distance traversed, sometimes under canvas, but generally steaming. We saw + no land between the Lizard and Cape Otway light—that is, for + fifty-seven days: and oh, the monotony of that time!—the monotony of + it! Our decks were so crowded that we divided our walking hours, in order + that each set of passengers might have space to move about; for if every + one had taken it into their heads to exercise themselves at the same time, + we could hardly have exceeded the fisherman's definition of a walk, "two + steps and overboard." I am ashamed to say I was more or less ill all the + way, but, fortunately, F—— was not, and I rejoiced at this + from the most selfish motives, as he was able to take care of me. I find + that sea-sickness develops the worst part of one's character with + startling rapidity, and, as far as I am concerned, I look back with + self-abasement upon my callous indifference to the sufferings of others, + and apathetic absorption in my individual misery. + </p> + <p> + Until we had fairly embarked, the well-meaning but ignorant among our + friends constantly assured us, with an air of conviction as to the truth + and wisdom of their words, that we were going at the very best season of + the year; but as soon as we could gather the opinions of those in + authority on board, it gradually leaked out that we really had fallen upon + quite a wrong time for such a voyage, for we very soon found ourselves in + the tropics during their hottest month (early in August), and after having + been nearly roasted for three weeks, we plunged abruptly into mid-winter, + or at all events very early spring, off the Cape of Good Hope, and went + through a season of bitterly cold weather, with three heavy gales. I + pitied the poor sailors from the bottom of my heart, at their work all + night on decks slippery with ice, and pulling at ropes so frozen that it + was almost impossible to bend them; but, thank God, there were no + casualties among the men. The last gale was the most severe; they said it + was the tail of a cyclone. One is apt on land to regard such phrases as + the "shriek of the storm," or "the roar of the waves," as poetical + hyperboles; whereas they are very literal and expressive renderings of the + sounds of horror incessant throughout a gale at sea. Our cabin, though + very nice and comfortable in other respects, possessed an extraordinary + attraction for any stray wave which might be wandering about the saloon: + once or twice I have been in the cuddy when a sea found its way down the + companion, and I have watched with horrible anxiety a ton or so of water + hesitating which cabin it should enter and deluge, and it always seemed to + choose ours. All these miseries appear now, after even a few days of the + blessed land, to belong to a distant past; but I feel inclined to lay my + pen down and have a hearty laugh at the recollection of one cold night, + when a heavy "thud" burst open our cabin door, and washed out all the + stray parcels, boots, etc., from the corners in which the rolling of the + ship had previously bestowed them. I was high and dry in the top berth, + but poor F—— in the lower recess was awakened by the douche, + and no words of mine can convey to you the utter absurdity of his + appearance, as he nimbly mounted on the top of a chest of drawers close + by, and crouched there, wet and shivering, handing me up a most + miscellaneous assortment of goods to take care of in my little dry nest. + </p> + <p> + Some of our fellow-passengers were very good-natured, and devoted + themselves to cheering and enlivening us by getting up concerts, little + burlesques and other amusements; and very grateful we were for their + efforts: they say that "anything is fun in the country," but on board ship + a little wit goes a very long way indeed, for all are only too ready and + anxious to be amused. The whole dramatic strength of the company was + called into force for the performance of "The Rivals," which was given a + week or so before the end of the voyage. It went off wonderfully well; but + I confess I enjoyed the preparations more than the play itself: the + ingenuity displayed was very amusing at the time. You on shore cannot + imagine how difficult it was to find a snuff-box for "Sir Anthony + Absolute," or with what joy and admiration we welcomed a clever substitute + for it in the shape of a match-box covered with the lead out of a + tea-chest most ingeniously modelled into an embossed wreath round the lid, + with a bunch of leaves and buds in the centre, the whole being brightly + burnished: at the performance the effect of this little "property" was + really excellent. Then, at the last moment, poor "Bob Acres" had to give + in, and acknowledge that he could not speak for coughing; he had been + suffering from bronchitis for some days past, but had gallantly striven to + make himself heard at rehearsals; so on the day of the play F—— + had the part forced on him. There was no time to learn his "words," so he + wrote out all of them in large letters on slips of paper and fastened them + on the beams. This device was invisible to the audience, but he was + obliged to go through his scenes with his head as high up as if he had on + a martingale; however, we were all so indulgent that at any little <i>contretemps</i>, + such as one of the actresses forgetting her part or being seized by + stage-fright, the applause was much greater than when things went + smoothly. + </p> + <p> + I can hardly believe that it is only two days since we steamed into + Hobson's Bay, on a lovely bright spring morning. At dinner, the evening + before, our dear old captain had said that we should see the revolving + light on the nearest headland about eight o'clock that evening, and so we + did. You will not think me childish, if I acknowledge that my eyes were so + full of tears I could hardly see it after the first glimpse; it is + impossible to express in a letter all the joy and thankfulness of such a + moment. Feelings like these are forgotten only too quickly in the jar and + bustle of daily life, and we are always ready to take as a matter of + course those mercies which are new every morning; but when I realized that + all the tosses and tumbles of so many weary days and nights were over, and + that at last we had reached the haven where we would be, my first thought + was one of deep gratitude. It was easy to see that it was a good moment + with everyone; squabbles were made up with surprising quickness; shy + people grew suddenly sociable; some who had comfortable homes to go to on + landing gave kind and welcome invitations to others, who felt themselves + sadly strange in a new country; and it was with really a lingering feeling + of regret that we all separated at last, though a very short time before + we should have thought it quite impossible to be anything but delighted to + leave the ship. + </p> + <p> + We have not seen much of Melbourne yet, as there has been a great deal to + do in looking after the luggage, and at first one is capable of nothing + but a delightful idleness. The keenest enjoyment is a fresh-water bath, + and next to that is the new and agreeable luxury of the ample space for + dressing; and then it is so pleasant to suffer no anxiety as to the + brushes and combs tumbling about. I should think that even the vainest + woman in the world would find her toilet and its duties a daily trouble + and a sorrow at sea, on account of the unsteadiness of all things. The + next delight is standing at the window, and seeing horses, and trees, and + dogs—in fact, all the "treasures of the land;" as for flowers—beautiful + as they are at all times—you cannot learn to appreciate them enough + until you have been deprived of them for two months. + </p> + <p> + You know that I have travelled a good deal in various parts of the world, + but I have never seen anything at all like Melbourne. In other countries, + it is generally the antiquity of the cities, and their historical + reminiscences, which appeal to the imagination; but <i>here</i>, the + interest is as great from exactly the opposite cause. It is most wonderful + to walk through a splendid town, with magnificent public buildings, + churches, shops, clubs, theatres, with the streets well paved and lighted, + and to think that less than forty years ago it was a desolate swamp + without even a hut upon it. How little an English country town progresses + in forty years, and here is a splendid city created in that time! I have + no hesitation in saying, that any fashionable novelty which comes out in + either London or Paris finds its way to Melbourne by the next steamer; for + instance, I broke my parasol on board ship, and the first thing I did on + landing was to go to one of the best shops in Collins Street to replace + it. On learning what I wanted, the shopman showed me some of those new + parasols which had just come out in London before I sailed, and which I + had vainly tried to procure in S——, only four hours from + London. + </p> + <p> + The only public place we have yet visited is the Acclimatization Garden; + which is very beautifully laid out, and full of aviaries, though it looks + strange to see common English birds treated as distinguished visitors and + sumptuously lodged and cared for. Naturally, the Australian ones interest + me most, and they are certainly prettier than yours at home, though they + do not sing. I have been already to a shop where they sell skins of birds, + and have half ruined myself in purchases for hats. You are to have a + "diamond sparrow," a dear little fellow with reddish brown plumage, and + white spots over its body (in this respect a miniature copy of the Argus + pheasant I brought from India), and a triangular patch of bright yellow + under its throat. I saw some of them alive in a cage in the market with + many other kinds of small birds, and several pairs of those pretty grass + or zebra paroquets, which are called here by the very inharmonious name of + "budgerighars." I admired the blue wren so much—a tiny <i>birdeen</i> + with tail and body of dust-coloured feathers, and head and throat of a + most lovely turquoise blue; it has also a little wattle of these blue + feathers standing straight out on each side of its head, which gives it a + very pert appearance. Then there is the emu-wren, all sad-coloured, but + quaint, with the tail-feathers sticking up on end, and exactly like those + of an emu; on the very smallest scale, even to the peculiarity of two + feathers growing out of the same little quill. I was much amused by the + varieties of cockatoos, parrots, and lories of every kind and colour, + shrieking and jabbering in the part of the market devoted to them; but I + am told that I have seen very few of the varieties of birds, as it is + early in the spring, and the young ones have not yet been brought in: they + appear to sell as fast as they can be procured. But before I end my letter + I must tell you about the cockatoo belonging to this hotel. It is a famous + bird in its way, having had its portrait taken several times, descriptions + written for newspapers of its talents, and its owner boasts of enormous + sums offered and refused for it. Knowing my fondness for pets, F—— + took me downstairs to see it very soon after our arrival. I thought it + hideous: it belongs to a kind not very well known in England, of a + dirtyish white colour, a very ugly-shaped head and bill, and large bluish + rings round the eyes; the beak is huge and curved. If it knew of this last + objection on my part, it would probably answer, like the wolf in Red + Riding Hood's story, "the better to talk with, my dear"—for it is a + weird and knowing bird. At first it flatly refused to show off any of its + accomplishments, but one of the hotel servants good-naturedly came + forward, and Cocky condescended to go through his performances. I cannot + possibly-tell you of all its antics: it pretended to have a violent + toothache, and nursed its beak in its claw, rocking itself backwards and + forwards as if in the greatest agony, and in answer to all the remedies + which were proposed, croaking out, "Oh, it ain't a bit of good," and + finally sidling up, to the edge of its perch, and saying in hoarse but + confidential whisper, "Give us a drop of whisky, <i>do</i>." Its voice was + extraordinarily distinct, and when it sang several snatches of songs the + words were capitally given, with the most absurdly comic intonation, all + the <i>roulades</i> being executed in perfect tune. I liked its sewing + performance so much—to see it hold a little piece of stuff + underneath the claw which rested on the perch, and pretend to sew with the + other, getting into difficulties with its thread, and finally setting up a + loud song in praise of sewing-machines just as if it were an + advertisement. + </p> + <p> + By the next time I write I shall have seen more of Melbourne; there will, + however, be no time for another letter by this mail; but I will leave one + to be posted after we sail for New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter II: Sight-seeing in Melbourne. + </h2> + <p> + Melbourne, October 1st, 1865. I have left my letter to the last moment + before starting for Lyttleton; everything is re-packed and ready, and we + sail to-morrow morning in the <i>Albion</i>. She is a mail-steamer—very + small after our large vessel, but she looks clean and tidy; at all events, + we hope to be only on board her for ten days. In England one fancies that + New Zealand is quite close to Australia, so I was rather disgusted to find + we had another thousand miles of steaming to do before we could reach our + new home; and one of the many Job's comforters who are scattered up and + down the world assures me that the navigation is the most dangerous and + difficult of the whole voyage. + </p> + <p> + We have seen a good deal of Melbourne this week; and not only of the town, + for we have had many drives in the exceedingly pretty suburbs, owing to + the kindness of the D——s, who have been most hospitable and + made our visit here delightful. We drove out to their house at Toorak + three or four times; and spent a long afternoon with them; and there I + began to make acquaintance with the Antipodean trees and flowers. I hope + you will not think it a very sweeping assertion if I say that all the + leaves look as if they were made of leather, but it really is so; the hot + winds appear to parch up everything, at all events, round Melbourne, till + the greatest charm of foliage is more or less lost; the flowers also look + withered and burnt up, as yours do at the end of a long, dry summer, only + they assume this appearance after the first hot wind in spring. The suburb + called Heidelberg is the prettiest, to my taste—an undulating + country with vineyards, and a park-like appearance which, is very + charming. All round Melbourne there are nice, comfortable, English-looking + villas. At one of these we called to return a visit and found a very + handsome house, luxuriously furnished, with beautiful garden and grounds. + One afternoon we went by rail to St. Kilda's, a flourishing bathing-place + on the sea-coast, about six miles from Melbourne. Everywhere building is + going on with great rapidity, and you do not see any poor people in the + streets. If I wanted to be critical and find fault, I might object to the + deep gutters on each side of the road; after a shower of rain they are + raging torrents for a short time, through which you are obliged to splash + without regard to the muddy consequences; and even when they are dry, they + entail sudden and prodigious jolts. There are plenty of Hansoms and all + sorts of other conveyances, but I gave F—— no peace until he + took me for a drive in a vehicle which was quite new to me—a sort of + light car with a canopy and curtains, holding four, two on each seat, <i>dos-a-dos</i>, + and called a "jingle,"—of American parentage, I fancy. One drive in + this carriage was quite enough, however, and I contented myself with + Hansoms afterwards; but walking is really more enjoyable than anything + else, after having been so long cooped up on board ship. + </p> + <p> + We admired the fine statue, at the top of Collins Street, to the memory of + the two most famous of Australian explorers, Burke and Wills, and made + many visits to the Museum, and the glorious Free Library; we also went all + over the Houses of Legislature—very new and grand. But you must not + despise me if I confess to having enjoyed the shops exceedingly: it was so + unlike a jeweller's shop in England to see on the counter gold in its raw + state, in nuggets and dust and flakes; in this stage of its existence it + certainly deserves its name of "filthy lucre," for it is often only half + washed. There were quantities of emus' eggs in the silversmiths' shops, + mounted in every conceivable way as cups and vases, and even as + work-boxes: some designs consisted of three or five eggs grouped together + as a centre-piece. I cannot honestly say I admired any of them; they were + generally too elaborate, comprising often a native (spear in hand), a + kangaroo, palms, ferns, cockatoos, and sometimes an emu or two in + addition, as a pedestal—all this in frosted silver or gold. I was + given a pair of these eggs before leaving England: they were mounted in + London as little flower-vases in a setting consisting only of a few + bulrushes and leaves, yet far better than any of these florid designs; but + he emu-eggs are very popular in Sydney or Melbourne, and I am told sell + rapidly to people going home, who take them as a memento of their + Australian life, and probably think that the greater the number of + reminiscences suggested by the ornament the more satisfactory it is as a + purchase. + </p> + <p> + I must finish my letter by a description of a dinner-party which about a + dozen of our fellow-passengers joined with us in giving our dear old + captain before we all separated. Whilst we were on board, it very often + happened that the food was not very choice or good: at all events we used + sometimes to grumble at it, and we generally wound up our lamentations by + agreeing that when we reached Melbourne we would have a good dinner + together. Looking back on it, I must say I think we were all rather + greedy, but we tried to give a better colouring to our gourmandism by + inviting the captain, who was universally popular, and by making it as + elegant and pretty a repast as possible. Three or four of the gentlemen + formed themselves into a committee, and they must really have worked very + hard; at all events they collected everything rare and strange in the way + of fish, flesh, and fowl peculiar to Australia, the arrangement of the + table was charming, and the delicacies were all cooked and served to + perfection. The ladies' tastes were considered in the profusion of + flowers, and we each found an exquisite bouquet by our plate. I cannot + possibly give you a minute account of the whole menu; in fact, as it is, I + feel rather like Froissart, who, after chronicling a long list of + sumptuous dishes, is not ashamed to confess, "Of all which good things I, + the chronicler of this narration, did partake!" The soups comprised + kangaroo-tail—a clear soup not unlike ox-tail, but with a flavour of + game. I wish I could recollect the names of the fish: the fresh-water ones + came a long distance by rail from the river Murray, but were excellent + nevertheless. The last thing which I can remember tasting (for one really + could do little else) was a most exquisite morsel of pigeon—more + like a quail than anything else in flavour. I am not a judge of wine, as + you may imagine, therefore it is no unkindness to the owners of the + beautiful vineyards which we saw the other day, to say that I do not like + the Australian wines. Some of the gentlemen pronounced them to be + excellent, especially the equivalent to Sauterne, which has a wonderful + native name impossible to write down; but, as I said before, I do not like + the rather rough flavour. We had not a great variety of fruit at dessert: + indeed, Sydney oranges constituted its main feature, as it is too late for + winter fruits, and too early for summer ones: but we were not inclined to + be over-fastidious, and thought everything delicious. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter III: On to New Zealand. + </h2> + <p> + Christchurch, Canterbury, N. Z. October 14th, 1865. As you so particularly + desired me when we parted to tell you <i>everything</i>, I must resume my + story where in my last letter I left it off. If I remember rightly, I + ended with an attempt at describing our great feast. We embarked the next + day, and as soon as we were out of the bay the little <i>Albion</i> + plunged into heavy seas. The motion was much worse in her than on board + the large vessel we had been so glad to leave, and all my previous + sufferings seemed insignificant compared with what I endured in my small + and wretchedly hard berth. I have a dim recollection of F—— + helping me to dress, wrapping me up in various shawls, and half carrying + me up the companion ladder; I crawled into a sunny corner among the boxes + of oranges with which the deck was crowded, and there I lay helpless and + utterly miserable. One well-meaning and good-natured fellow-passenger + asked F—— if I was fond of birds, and on his saying "Yes," + went off for a large wicker cage of hideous "laughing Jackasses," which he + was taking as a great treasure to Canterbury. Why they should be called + "Jackasses" I never could discover; but the creatures certainly do utter + by fits and starts a sound which may fairly be described as laughter. + These paroxysms arise from no cause that one can perceive; one bird + begins, and all the others join in, and a more doleful and depressing + chorus I never heard: early in the morning seemed the favourite time for + this discordant mirth. Their owner also possessed a cockatoo with a great + musical reputation, but I never heard it get beyond the first bar of "Come + into the garden, Maud." Ill as I was, I remember being roused to something + like a flicker of animation when I was shown an exceedingly seedy and + shabby-looking blackbird with a broken leg in splints, which its master + (the same bird-fancying gentleman) assured me he had bought in Melbourne + as a great bargain for only 2 pounds 10 shillings! + </p> + <p> + After five days' steaming we arrived in the open roadstead of Hokitika, on + the west coast of the middle island of New Zealand, and five minutes after + the anchor was down a little tug came alongside to take away our steerage + passengers—three hundred diggers. The gold-fields on this coast were + only discovered eight months ago, and already several canvas towns have + sprung up; there are thirty thousand diggers at work, and every vessel + brings a fresh cargo of stalwart, sun-burnt men. It was rather late, and + getting dark, but still I could distinctly see the picturesque tents in + the deep mountain gorge, their white shapes dotted here and there as far + back from the shore as my sight could follow, and the wreaths of smoke + curling up in all directions from the evening fires: it is still bitterly + cold at night, being very early spring. The river Hokitika washes down + with every fresh such quantities of sand, that a bar is continually + forming in this roadstead, and though only vessels of the least possible + draught are engaged in the coasting-trade, still wrecks are of frequent + occurrence. We ought to have landed our thousands of oranges here, but + this work was necessarily deferred till the morning, for it was as much as + they could do to get all the diggers and their belongings safely ashore + before dark; in the middle of the night one of the sudden and furious + gales common to these seas sprang up, and would soon have driven us on the + rocks if we had not got our steam up quickly and struggled out to sea, + oranges and all, and away to Nelson, on the north coast of the same + island. Here we landed the seventh day after leaving Melbourne, and spent + a few hours wandering about on shore. It is a lovely little town, as I saw + it that spring morning, with hills running down almost to the water's + edge, and small wooden houses with gables and verandahs, half buried in + creepers, built up the sides of the steep slopes. It was a true New + Zealand day, still and bright, a delicious invigorating freshness in the + air, without the least chill, the sky of a more than Italian blue, the + ranges of mountains in the distance covered with snow, and standing out, + sharp and clear against this lovely glowing heaven. The town itself, I + must say, seemed very dull and stagnant, with little sign of life or + activity about it; but nothing can be prettier or more picturesque than + its situation—not unlike that of a Swiss village. Our day came to an + end all too soon, and we re-embarked for Wellington, the most southern + town of the North Island. The seat of government is there, and it is + supposed to be a very thriving place, but is not nearly so well situated + as Nelson nor so attractive to strangers. We landed and walked about a + good deal, and saw what little there was to see. At first I thought the + shops very handsome, but I found, rather to my disgust, that generally the + fine, imposing frontage was all a sham; the actual building was only a + little but at the back, looking all the meaner for the contrast to the + cornices and show windows in front. You cannot think how odd it was to + turn a corner and see that the building was only one board in thickness, + and scarcely more substantial than the scenes at a theatre. We lunched at + the principal hotel, where F—— was much amused at my + astonishment at colonial prices. We had two dozen very nice little + oysters, and he had a glass of porter: for this modest repast we paid + eleven shillings! + </p> + <p> + We slept on board, had another walk on shore after breakfast the following + morning, and about twelve o'clock set off for Lyttleton, the final end of + our voyaging, which we reached in about twenty hours. + </p> + <p> + The scenery is very beautiful all along the coast, but the navigation is + both dangerous and difficult. It was exceedingly cold, and Lyttleton did + not look very inviting; we could not get in at all near the landing-place, + and had to pay 2 pounds to be rowed ashore in an open boat with our + luggage. I assure you it was a very "bad quarter of an hour" we passed in + that boat; getting into it was difficult enough. The spray dashed over us + every minute, and by the time we landed we were quite drenched, but a good + fire at the hotel and a capital lunch soon made us all right again; + besides, in the delight of being actually at the end of our voyage no + annoyance or discomfort was worth a moment's thought. F—— had + a couple of hours' work rushing backwards and forwards to the Custom + House, clearing our luggage, and arranging for some sort of conveyance to + take us over the hills. The great tunnel through these "Port Hills" (which + divide Lyttleton from Christchurch, the capital of Canterbury) is only + half finished, but it seems wonderful that so expensive and difficult an + engineering work could be undertaken by such an infant colony. + </p> + <p> + At last a sort of shabby waggonette was forthcoming, and about three + o'clock we started from Lyttleton, and almost immediately began to ascend + the zig-zag. It was a tremendous pull for the poor horses, who however + never flinched; at the steepest pinch the gentlemen were requested to get + out and walk, which they did, and at length we reached the top. It was + worth all the bad road to look down on the land-locked bay, with the + little patches of cultivation, a few houses nestling in pretty recesses. + The town of Lyttleton seemed much more imposing and important as we rose + above it: fifteen years ago a few sheds received the "Pilgrims," as the + first comers are always called. I like the name; it is so pretty and + suggestive. By the way, I am told that these four ships, sent out with the + pilgrims by the Canterbury Association, sailed together from England, + parted company almost directly, and arrived in Lyttleton (then called Port + Cooper) four months afterwards, on the same day, having all experienced + fine weather, but never having sighted each other once. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we reached the top of the hill the driver looked to the harness + of his horses, put on a very powerful double break, and we began the + descent, which, I must say, I thought we took much too quickly, especially + as at every turn of the road some little anecdote was forthcoming of an + upset or accident; however, I would not show the least alarm, and we were + soon rattling along the Sumner Road, by the sea-shore, passing every now + and then under tremendous overhanging crags. In half an hour we reached + Sumner itself, where we stopped for a few moments to change horses. There + is an inn and a village here, where people from Christchurch come in the + warm weather for sea-air and bathing. It began to rain hard, and the rest + of the journey, some seven or eight miles, was disagreeable enough; but it + was the <i>end</i>, and that one thought was sufficient to keep us + radiantly good-humoured, in spite of all little trials. When we reached + Christchurch, we drove at once to a sort of boarding-house where we had + engaged apartments, and thought of nothing but supper and bed. + </p> + <p> + The next day people began calling, and certainly I cannot complain of any + coldness or want of welcome to my new home. I like what I have seen of my + future acquaintances very much. Of course there is a very practical style + and tone over everything, though outwardly the place is as civilized as if + it were a hundred years old; well-paved streets, gas lamps, and even + drinking fountains and pillar post-offices! I often find myself wondering + whether the ladies here are at all like what our great grandmothers were. + I suspect they are, for they appear to possess an amount of useful + practical knowledge which is quite astonishing, and yet know how to + surround themselves, according to their means and opportunities, with the + refinements and elegancies of life. I feel quite ashamed of my own utter + ignorance on every subject, and am determined to set to work directly and + learn: at all events I shall have plenty of instructresses. Christchurch + is a very pretty little town, still primitive enough to be picturesque, + and yet very thriving: capital shops, where everything may be bought; + churches, public buildings, a very handsome club-house, etc. Most of the + houses are of wood, but when they are burned down (which is often the + case) they are now rebuilt of brick or stone, so that the new ones are + nearly all of these more solid materials. I am disappointed to find that, + the cathedral, of which I had heard so much, has not progressed beyond the + foundations, which cost 8,000 pounds: all the works have been stopped, and + certainly there is not much to show for so large a sum, but labour is very + dear. Christchurch is a great deal more lively and bustling than most + English country towns, and I am much struck by the healthy appearance of + the people. There are no paupers to be seen; every one seems well fed and + well clothed; the children are really splendid. Of course, as might be + expected, there is a great deal of independence in bearing and manner, + especially among the servants, and I hear astounding stories concerning + them on all sides. My next letter will be from the country, as we have + accepted an invitation to pay a visit of six weeks or so to a station in + the north of the province. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter IV: First introduction to "Station life." + </h2> + <p> + Heathstock, Canterbury, November 13th, 1865. I have just had the happiness + of receiving my first budget of English letters; and no one can imagine + how a satisfactory home letter satisfies the hunger of the heart after its + loved and left ones. Your letter was particularly pleasant, because I + could perceive, as I held the paper in my hands, that you were writing as + you really felt, and that you were indeed happy. May you long continue so, + dearest. + </p> + <p> + F—— says that this beautiful place will give me a very + erroneous impression of station life, and that I shall probably expect to + find its comforts and luxuries the rule, whereas they are the exception; + in the mean time, however, I am enjoying them thoroughly. The house is + only sixty-five miles from Christchurch, nearly due north (which you must + not forget answers to your south in point of warmth). Our kind friends and + hosts, the L——s, called for us in their comfortable and large + break, with four horses. Mr. L—— drove, F—— sat on + the box, and inside were the ladies, children, and a nurse. Our first + stage was to Kaiapoi, a little town on the river Waimakiriri, where we had + a good luncheon of whitebait, and rested and fed the horses. From the + window of the hotel I saw a few groups of Maories; they looked very ugly + and peaceable, with a rude sort of basket made of flax fibres, or buckets + filled with whitebait, which they wanted us to buy. There are some + reserved lands near Kaiapoi where they have a very thriving settlement, + living in perfect peace and good-will with their white neighbours. When we + set off again on our journey, we passed a little school-house for their + children. + </p> + <p> + We reached Leathfield that evening, only twenty-five miles from + Christchurch; found a nice inn, or accommodation-house, as roadside inns + are called here; had a capital supper and comfortable beds, and were up + and off again at daylight the next morning. As far as the Weka Pass, where + we stopped for dinner, the roads were very good, but after that we got + more among the hills and off the usual track, and there were many sharp + turns and steep pinches; but Mr. L—— is an excellent whip, and + took great care of us. We all got very weary towards the end of this + second day's journey, and the last two hours of it were in heavy rain; it + was growing very dark when we reached the gate, and heard the welcome + sound of gravel under the wheels. I could just perceive that we had + entered a plantation, the first trees since we left Christchurch. Nothing + seems so wonderful to me as the utter treelessness of the vast Canterbury + plains; occasionally you pass a few Ti-ti palms (ordinarily called + cabbage-trees), or a large prickly bush which goes by the name of "wild + Irishman," but for miles and miles you see nothing but flat ground or + slightly undulating downs of yellow tussocks, the tall native grass. It + has the colour and appearance of hay, but serves as shelter for a + delicious undergrowth of short sweet herbage, upon which the sheep live, + and horses also do very well on it, keeping in good working condition, + quite unlike their puffy, fat state on English pasture. + </p> + <p> + We drove through the plantation and another gate, and drew up at the door + of a very large, handsome, brick house, with projecting gables and a + verandah. The older I grow the more convinced I am that contrast is + everything in this world; and nothing I can write can give you any idea of + the delightful change from the bleak country we had been slowly travelling + through in pouring rain, to the warmth and brightness of this charming + house. There were blazing fires ready to welcome us, and I feel sure you + will sufficiently appreciate this fact when I tell you that by the time + the coal reaches this, it costs nine pounds per ton. It is possible to get + Australian coal at about half the price, but it is not nearly as good. + </p> + <p> + We were so tired that we were only fit for the lowest phase of human + enjoyment—warmth, food, and sleep; but the next morning was bright + and lovely, and I was up and out in the verandah as early as possible. I + found myself saying constantly, in a sort of ecstasy, "How I wish they + could see this in England!" and not only see but feel it, for the very + breath one draws on such a morning is a happiness; the air is so light and + yet balmy, it seems to heal the lungs as you inhale it. The verandah is + covered with honeysuckles and other creepers, and the gable end of the + house where the bow-window of the drawing-room projects, is one mass of + yellow Banksia roses in full blossom. A stream runs through the grounds, + fringed with weeping willows, which are in their greatest beauty at this + time of year, with their soft, feathery foliage of the tenderest green. + The flower beds are dotted about the lawn, which surrounds the house and + slopes away from it, and they are brilliant patches of colour, gay with + verbenas, geraniums, and petunias. Here and there clumps of tall trees + rise above the shrubs, and as a background there is a thick plantation of + red and blue gums, to shelter the garden from the strong N.W. winds. Then, + in front, the country stretches away in undulating downs to a chain of + high hills in the distance: every now and then there is a deep gap in + these, through which you see magnificent snow-covered mountains. + </p> + <p> + The inside of the house is as charming as the outside, and the perfection + of comfort; but I am perpetually wondering how all the furniture—especially + the fragile part of it—got here. When I remember the jolts, and + ruts, and roughnesses of the road, I find myself looking at the pier-glass + and glass shades, picture-frames, etc., with a sort of respect, due to + them for having survived so many dangers. + </p> + <p> + The first two or three days we enjoyed ourselves in a thoroughly lazy + manner; the garden was a never-ending source of delight, and there were + all the animals to make friends with, "mobs" of horses to look at, + rabbits, poultry, and pets of all sorts. About a week after our arrival, + some more gentlemen came, and then we had a series of picnics. As these + are quite unlike your highly civilized entertainments which go by the same + name, I must describe one to you. + </p> + <p> + The first thing after breakfast was to collect all the provisions, and + pack them in a sort of washing-basket, and then we started in an American + waggon drawn by a pair of stout cobs. We drove for some miles till we came + to the edge of one of the high terraces common to New Zealand scenery: + here we all got out; the gentlemen unharnessed and tethered the horses, so + that they could feed about comfortably, and then we scrambled down the + deep slope, at the bottom of which ran a wide shallow creek. It was no + easy matter to get the basket down here, I assure you; we ladies were only + permitted to load ourselves, one with a little kettle, and the other with + a tea-pot, but this was quite enough, as crossing the creek by a series of + jumps from one wet stone to another is not easy for a beginner. + </p> + <p> + Mr. L—— brought a large dog with him, a kangaroo-hound (not + unlike a lurcher in appearance), to hunt the wekas. I had heard at night + the peculiar cry or call of these birds, but had not seen one until + to-day. "Fly" put up several, one after another, and soon ran them down. + At first I thought it very cruel to destroy such a tame and apparently + harmless creature, but I am assured that they are most mischievous, and + that it would be useless to turn out the pheasants and partridges which + Mr. L—— has brought from England, until the numbers of the + wekas are considerably reduced. They are very like a hen pheasant without + the long tail feathers, and until you examine them you cannot tell they + have no wings, though there is a sort of small pinion among the feathers, + with a claw at the end of it. They run very swiftly, availing themselves + cleverly of the least bit of cover; but when you hear a short sharp cry, + it is a sign that the poor weka is nearly done, and the next thing you see + is Fly shaking a bundle of brown feathers vehemently. All the dogs are + trained to hunt these birds, as they are a great torment, sucking eggs and + killing chickens; but still I could not help feeling sorry when Fly, + having disposed of the mother, returned to the flax-bush out of which he + had started her, and killed several baby-wekas by successive taps of his + paw. + </p> + <p> + I have wandered away from my account of the picnic in the most + unjustifiable manner. The gentlemen were toiling up the hill, after we had + crossed the creek, carrying the big basket by turns between them; it was + really hard work, and I must tell you in confidence, that I don't believe + they liked it—at least I can answer for one. I laughed at them for + not enjoying their task, and assured them that I was looking forward with + pleasure to washing up the plates and dishes after our luncheon; but I + found that they had all been obliged, in the early days of the colony, to + work at domestic drudgery in grim and grimy earnest, so it had lost the + charm of novelty which it still possessed for me. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we reached a pretty sheltered spot half-way up the hill among + some trees and ferns, and by the side of the creek, we unpacked the + basket, and began collecting dry wood for a fire: we soon had a splendid + blaze under the lee of a fine rock, and there we boiled our kettle and our + potatoes. The next thing was to find a deep hole in the creek, so + over-shadowed by rocks and trees that the water would be icy cold: in this + we put the champagne to cool. The result of all our preparations was a + capital luncheon, eaten in a most romantic spot, with a lovely view before + us, and the creek just like a Scotch burn, hurrying and tumbling down the + hill-side to join the broader stream in the valley. After luncheon, the + gentlemen considered themselves entitled to rest, lying lazily back among + the fern and smoking, whilst we ladies sat a little apart and chatted: I + was busy learning to knit. Then, about five, we had the most delicious cup + of tea I ever tasted, and we repacked the basket (it was very light now, I + assure you), and made our way back to the top of the terrace, put the + horses in again, and so home. It was a long, bright, summer holiday, and + we enjoyed it thoroughly. After a voyage, such an expedition as this is + full of delight; every tree and bird is a source of pleasure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter V: A pastoral letter. + </h2> + <p> + Heathstock, December 1st, 1865. All I can find to tell you this month is + that I have seen one of the finest and best wool-sheds in the country in + full work. Anything about sheep is as new to you as it is to me, so I + shall begin my story at the very beginning. + </p> + <p> + I am afraid you will think us a very greedy set of people in this part of + the world, for eating seems to enter so largely into my letters; but the + fact is—and I may as well confess it at once—I am in a chronic + state of hunger; it is the fault of the fine air and the outdoor life: and + then how one sleeps at night! I don't believe you really know in England + what it is to be sleepy as we feel sleepy here; and it is delightful to + wake up in the morning with the sort of joyous light-heartedness which + only young children have. The expedition I am going to relate may fairly + be said to have begun with eating, for although we started for our twelve + miles' drive over the downs immediately after an excellent and somewhat + late breakfast, yet by the time we reached the Home Station we were quite + ready for luncheon. All the work connected with the sheep is carried on + here. The manager has a nice house; and the wool-shed, men's huts, dip, + etc., are near each other. It is the busiest season of the year, and no + time could be spared to prepare for us; we therefore contented ourselves + with what was described to me as ordinary station fare, and I must tell + you what they gave us: first, a tureen of real mutton-broth, not hot water + and chopped parsley, but excel-lent thick soup, with plenty of barley and + meat in it; this had much the same effect on our appetites as the famous + treacle and brimstone before breakfast in "Nicholas Nickleby," so that we + were only able to manage a few little sheeps' tongues, slightly pickled; + and very nice <i>they</i> were; then we finished with a Devonshire junket, + with clotted cream <i>a discretion</i>. Do you think we were much to be + pitied? + </p> + <p> + After this repast we were obliged to rest a little before we set out for + the wool-shed, which has only been lately finished, and has all the newest + improvements. At first I am "free to confess" that I did not like either + its sounds or sights; the other two ladies turned very pale, but I was + determined to make myself bear it, and after a moment or two I found it + quite possible to proceed with Mr. L——round the "floor." There + were about twenty-five shearers at work, and everything seemed to be very + systematically and well arranged. Each shearer has a trap-door close to + him, out of which he pushes his sheep as soon as the fleece is off, and + there are little pens outside, so that the manager can notice whether the + poor animal has been too much cut with the shears, or badly shorn in any + other respect, and can tell exactly which shearer is to blame. Before this + plan was adopted it was hopeless to try to find out who was the + delinquent, for no one would acknowledge to the least snip. A good shearer + can take off 120 fleeces in a day, but the average is about 80 to each + man. They get one pound per hundred, and are found in everything, having + as much tea and sugar, bread and mutton, as they can consume, and a cook + entirely to themselves; they work at least fourteen hours out of the + twenty-four, and with such a large flock as this—about 50,000—must + make a good deal. + </p> + <p> + We next inspected the wool tables, to which two boys were incessantly + bringing armfuls of rolled-up fleeces; these were laid on the tables + before the wool-sorters, who opened them out, and pronounced in a moment + to which <i>bin</i> they belonged; two or three men standing behind rolled + them up again rapidly, and put them on a sort of shelf divided into + compartments, which were each labelled, so that the quality and kind of + wool could be told at a glance. There was a constant emptying of these + bins into trucks to be carried off to the press, where we followed to see + the bales packed. The fleeces are tumbled in, and a heavy screw-press + forces them down till the bale—which is kept open in a large square + frame—is as full as it can hold. The top of canvas is then put on, + tightly sewn, four iron pins are removed and the sides of the frame fall + away, disclosing a most symmetrical bale ready to be hoisted by a crane + into the loft above, where it has the brand of the sheep painted on it, + its weight, and to what class the wool belongs. Of course everything has + to be done with great speed and system. + </p> + <p> + I was much impressed by the silence in the shed; not a sound was to be + heard except the click of the shears, and the wool-sorter's decision as he + flings the fleece behind him, given in one, or at most two words. I was + reminded how touchingly true is that phrase, "Like as a sheep before her + shearers is dumb." All the noise is <i>outside</i>; there the hubbub, and + dust, and apparent confusion are great,—a constant succession of + woolly sheep being brought up to fill the "skillions" (from whence the + shearers take them as they want them), and the newly-shorn ones, white, + clean, and bewildered-looking, being turned out after they have passed + through a narrow passage, called a "race," where each sheep is branded, + and has its mouth examined in order to tell its age, which is marked in a + book. It was a comfort to think all their troubles were over, for a year. + You can hear nothing but barking and bleating, and this goes on from early + morning till dark. We peeped in at the men's huts—a long, low wooden + building, with two rows of "bunks" (berths, I should call their) in one + compartment, and a table with forms round it in the other, and piles of + tin plates and pannikins all about. The kitchen was near, and we were just + in time to see an enormous batch of bread withdrawn from a huge brick + oven: the other commissariat arrangements were on the same scale. Cold tea + is supplied all day long to the shearers, and they appear to consume great + quantities of it. + </p> + <p> + Our last visit was to the Dip, and it was only a short one, for it seemed + a cruel process; unfortunately, this fine station is in technical parlance + "scabby," and although of course great precautions are taken, still some + 10,000 sheep had an ominous large S on them. These poor sufferers are + dragged down a plank into a great pit filled with hot water, tobacco, and + sulphur, and soused over head and ears two or three times. This torture is + repeated more than once. + </p> + <p> + I was very glad to get away from the Dip, and back to the manager's house, + where we refreshed ourselves by a delicious cup of tea, and soon after + started for a nice long drive home in the cool, clear evening air. The + days are very hot, but never oppressive; and the mornings and evenings are + deliciously fresh and invigorating. You can remain out late without the + least danger. Malaria is unknown, and, in spite of the heavy rains, there + is no such thing as damp. Our way lay through very pretty country—a + series of terraces, with a range of mountains before us, with beautiful + changing and softening evening tints creeping over the whole. + </p> + <p> + I am sorry to say, we leave this next week. I should like to explore a + great deal more. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter VI: Society.—houses and servants. + </h2> + <p> + Christchurch, January 1866. I am beginning to get tired of Christchurch + already: but the truth is, I am not in a fair position to judge of it as a + place of residence; for, living temporarily, as we do, in a sort of + boarding-house, I miss the usual duties and occupations of home, and the + town itself has no place of public amusement except a little theatre, to + which it is much too hot to go. The last two weeks have been <i>the</i> + gay ones of the whole year; the races have been going on for three days, + and there have been a few balls; but as a general rule, the society may be + said to be extremely stagnant. No dinner-parties are ever given—I + imagine, on account of the smallness of the houses and the inefficiency of + the servants; but every now and then there is an assembly ball arranged, + in the same way, I believe, as at watering-places in England only, of + course, on a much smaller scale. I have been at two or three of these, and + noticed at each a most undue preponderance of black coats. Nearly all the + ladies were married, there were very few young girls; and it would be a + great improvement to the Christchurch parties if some of the pretty and + partnerless groups of a London ball-room, in all their freshness of + toilette, could be transferred to them. What a sensation they would make, + and what terrible heart-aches among the young gentlemen would be the + result of such an importation! There were the same knots of men standing + together as at a London party, but I must say that, except so far as their + tailor is concerned, I think we have the advantage of you, for the + gentlemen lead such healthy lives that they all look more or less bronzed + and stalwart—in splendid condition, not like your pale dwellers in + cities; and then they come to a ball to dance, arriving early so as to + secure good partners, and their great ambition appears to be to dance + every dance from the first to the last. This makes it hard work for the + few ladies, who are not allowed to sit down for a moment, and I have often + seen a young and pretty partner obliged to divide her dances between two + gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + Although it tells only against myself, I must make you laugh at an account + of a snub I received at one of these balls. Early in the evening I had + danced with a young gentleman whose station was a long way "up country," + and who worked so hard on it that he very seldom found time for even the + mild dissipations of Christchurch; he was good-looking and gentlemanly, + and seemed clever and sensible, a little <i>brusque</i>, perhaps, but one + soon gets used to that here. During our quadrille he confided to me that + he hardly knew any ladies in the room, and that his prospects of getting + any dancing were in consequence very blank. I did all I could to find + partners for him, introducing him to every lady whom I knew, but it was in + vain; they would have been delighted to dance with him, but their cards + were filled. At the end of the evening, when I was feeling thoroughly done + up, and could hardly stand up for fatigue, my poor friend came up and + begged for another dance. I assured him I could scarcely stand, but when + he said in a <i>larmoyante</i> voice, "I have only danced once this + evening, that quadrille with you," my heart softened, and I thought I + would make a great effort and try to get through one more set of Lancers; + my partner seemed so grateful, that the demon of vanity, or coquetry, or + whatever it is that prompts one to say absurd things induced me to fish + for a compliment, and to observe, "It was not worth while taking all the + trouble of riding such a distance to dance only with me, was it?" + Whereupon my poor, doleful friend answered, with a deep sigh, and an + accent of profound conviction, "No, indeed it was <i>not</i>!" I leave you + to imagine my discomfiture; but luckily he never observed it, and I felt + all the time that I richly deserved what I got, for asking such a stupid + question. + </p> + <p> + The music at these balls is very bad, and though the principal room in + which they are given, at the Town Hall, is large and handsome, it is + poorly lighted, and the decorations are desolate in the extreme. I am + afraid this is not a very inviting picture of what is almost our only + opportunity of meeting together, but it is tolerably correct. Visiting + appears to be the business of some people's lives, but the acquaintance + does not seem to progress beyond incessant afternoon calls; we are never + asked inside a house, nor, as far as I can make out, is there any private + society whatever, and the public society consists, as I have said, of a + ball every now and then. + </p> + <p> + My greatest interest and occupation consist in going to look at my house, + which is being cut out in Christchurch, and will be drayed to our station + next month, a journey of fifty miles. It is, of course, only of wood, and + seems about as solid as a band-box; but I am assured by the builder that + it will be a "most superior article" when it is all put together. F—— + and I made the little plan of it ourselves, regulating the size of the + drawing-room by the dimensions of the carpet we brought out, and I + petitioned for a little bay-window, which is to be added; so on my last + visit to his timber-yard, the builder said, with an air of great dignity, + "Would you wish to see the <i>h</i>oriel, mum?" The doors all come + ready-made from America, and most of the wood used in building is the + Kauri pine from the North Island. One advantage, at all events, in having + wooden houses is the extreme rapidity with which they are run up, and + there are no plastered walls to need drying. For a long time we were very + uncertain where, and what, we should build on our station; but only six + weeks after we made up our minds, a house is almost ready for us. The + boards are sawn into the requisite lengths by machinery; and all the + carpentering done down here; the frame will only require to be fitted + together when it reaches its destination, and it is a very good time of + year for building, as the wool drays are all going back empty, and we can + get them to take the loads at reduced prices; but even with this help, it + is enormously expensive to move a small house fifty miles, the last + fifteen over bad roads; it is collar-work for the poor horses all the way, + Christchurch being only nine feet above the sea-level, while our future + home in the Malvern Hills is twelve hundred. + </p> + <p> + You know we brought all our furniture out with us, and even papers for the + rooms, just because we happened to have everything; but I should not + recommend any one to do so, for the expense of carriage, though moderate + enough by sea (in a wool ship), is enormous as soon as it reaches + Lyttleton, and goods have to be dragged up country by horses or bullocks. + There are very good shops where you can buy everything, and besides these + there are constant sales by auction where, I am told, furniture fetches a + price sometimes under its English value. House rent about Christchurch is + very high. We looked at some small houses in and about the suburbs of the + town, when we were undecided about our plans, and were offered the most + inconvenient little dwellings, with rooms which were scarcely bigger than + cupboards, for 200 pounds a year; we saw nothing at a lower price than + this, and any house of a better class, standing in a nicely arranged + shrubbery, is at least 300 pounds per annum. Cab-hire is another thing + which seems to me disproportionately dear, as horses are very cheap; there + are no small fares, half-a-crown being the lowest "legal tender" to a + cabman; and I soon gave up returning visits when I found that to make a + call in a Hansom three or four miles out of the little town cost one pound + or one pound ten shillings, even remaining only a few minutes at the + house. + </p> + <p> + All food (except mutton) appears to be as nearly as possible at London + prices; but yet every one looks perfectly well-fed, and actual want is + unknown. Wages of all sorts are high, and employment, a certainty. The + look and bearing of the immigrants appear to alter soon after they reach + the colony. Some people object to the independence of their manner, but I + do not; on the contrary, I like to see the upright gait, the well-fed, + healthy look, the decent clothes (even if no one touches his hat to you), + instead of the half-starved, depressed appearance, and too often cringing + servility of the mass of our English population. Scotchmen do particularly + well out here; frugal and thrifty, hard-working and sober, it is easy to + predict the future of a man of this type in a new country. Naturally, the + whole tone of thought and feeling is almost exclusively practical; even in + a morning visit there is no small-talk. I find no difficulty in obtaining + the useful information upon domestic subjects which I so much need; for it + is sad to discover, after all my house-keeping experience, that I am still + perfectly ignorant. Here it is necessary to know <i>how</i> everything + should be done; it is not sufficient to give an order, you must also be in + a position to explain how it is to be carried out I felt quite guilty when + I saw the picture in <i>Punch</i> the other day, of a young and + inexperienced matron requesting her cook "not to put any lumps into the + melted butter," and reflected that I did not know how lumps should be kept + out; so, as I am fortunate enough to number among my new friends a lady + who is as clever in these culinary details as she is bright and charming + in society, I immediately went to her for a lesson in the art of making + melted butter without putting lumps into it. + </p> + <p> + The great complaint, the never-ending subject of comparison and + lamentation among ladies, is the utter ignorance and inefficiency of their + female servants. As soon as a ship comes in it is besieged with people who + want servants, but it is very rare to get one who knows how to do anything + as it ought to be done. Their lack of all knowledge of the commonest + domestic duties is most surprising, and makes one wonder who in England + did the necessary things of daily cottage life for them, for they appear + to have done nothing for themselves hitherto. As for a woman knowing how + to cook, that seems the very last accomplishment they acquire; a girl will + come to you as a housemaid at 25 pounds per annum, and you will find that + she literally does not know how to hold her broom, and has never handled a + duster. When you ask a nurse her qualifications for the care of perhaps + two or three young children, you may find, on close cross-examination, + that she can recollect having once or twice "held mother's baby," and that + she is very firm in her determination that "you'll keep baby yourself o' + nights; mem!" A perfectly inexperienced girl of this sort will ask, and + get, 30 pounds or 35 pounds per annum, a cook from 35 pounds to 40 pounds; + and when they go "up country," they hint plainly they shall not stay long + with you, and ask higher wages, stipulating with great exactness how they + are to be conveyed free of all expense to and from their place. + </p> + <p> + Then, on the other hand, I must say they work desperately hard, and very + cheerfully: I am amazed how few servants are kept even in the large and + better class of houses. As a general rule, they, appear willing enough to + learn, and I hear no complaints of dishonesty or immorality, though many + moans are made of the rapidity with which a nice tidy young woman is + snapped up as a wife; but that is a complaint no one can sympathise with. + On most stations a married couple is kept; the man either to act as + shepherd, or to work in the garden and look after the cows, and the woman + is supposed to attend to the indoor comforts of the wretched + bachelor-master: but she generally requires to be taught how to bake a + loaf of bread, and boil a potato, as well as how to cook mutton in the + simplest form. In her own cottage at home, who did all these things for + her? These incapables are generally perfectly helpless and awkward at the + wash-tub; no one seems to expect servants to know their business, and it + is very fortunate if they show any capability of learning. + </p> + <p> + I must end my long letter by telling you a little story of my own personal + experience in the odd ways of these girls. The housemaid at the + boarding-house where we have stayed since we left Heathstock is a fat, + sonsy, good-natured girl, perfectly ignorant and stupid, but she has not + been long in the colony, and seems willing to learn. She came to me the + other day, and, without the least circumlocution or hesitation, asked me + if I would lend her my riding-habit as a pattern to give the tailor; + adding that she wanted my best and newest. As soon as I could speak for + amazement, I naturally asked why; she said she had been given a + riding-horse, that she had loaned a saddle, and bought a hat, so now she + had nothing on her mind except the habit; and further added, that she + intended to leave her situation the day before the races, and that it was + "her fixed intent" to appear on horseback each day, and all day long, at + these said races. I inquired if she knew how to ride? No; she had never + mounted any animal in her life. I suggested that she had better take some + lessons before her appearance in public; but she said her mistress did not + like to spare her to "practise," and she stuck steadily to her point of + wanting my habit as a pattern. I could not lend it to her, fortunately, + for it had been sent up to the station with my saddle, etc.; so had she + been killed, as I thought not at all unlikely, at least my conscience + would not have reproached me for aiding and abetting her equestrian freak. + I inquired from every one who went to the races if they saw or heard of + any accident to a woman on horseback, and I most anxiously watched the + newspapers to see if they contained any notice of the sort, but as there + has been no mention of any catastrophe, I suppose she has escaped safely. + Her horse must have been quieter and better broken than they generally + are. F—— says that probably it was a very old "station screw." + I trust so, for her sake! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter VII: A young colonist.—the town and its neighbourhood. + </h2> + <p> + Christchurch, March 1866. I must begin my letter this mail with a piece of + domestic news, and tell you of the appearance of your small nephew, now + three weeks old. The youth seems inclined to adapt himself to + circumstances, and to be as sturdy and independent as colonial children + generally are. All my new friends and neighbours proved most kind and + friendly, and were full of good offices. Once I happened to say that I did + not like the food as it was cooked at the boarding-house; and the next + day, and for many days after, all sorts of dainties were sent to me, + prepared by hands which were as skilful on the piano, or with a pencil, as + they were in handling a saucepan. New books were lent to me, and I was + never allowed to be without a beautiful bouquet. One young lady used + constantly to walk in to town, some two or three miles along a hot and + dusty road, laden with flowers for me, just because she saw how thoroughly + I enjoyed her roses and carnations. Was it not good of her? + </p> + <p> + Christchurch has relapsed into the quietude, to call it by no harsher + name. The shearing is finished all over the country, and the "squatters" + (as owners of sheep-stations are called) have returned to their stations + to vegetate, or work, as their tastes and circumstances may dictate. Very + few people live in the town except the tradespeople; the professional men + prefer little villas two or three miles off. These houses stand in grounds + of their own, and form a very pretty approach to Christchurch, extending a + few miles on all sides: There are large trees bordering most of the + streets, which give a very necessary shade in summer; they are nearly all + English sorts, and have only been planted within a few years. Poplars, + willows, and the blue gum grow quickest, are least affected by the high + winds, and are therefore the most popular. The banks of the pretty little + river Avon, upon which Christchurch is built, are thickly fringed with + weeping willows, interspersed with a few other trees, and with clumps of + tohi, which is exactly like the Pampas grass you know so well in English + shrubberies. I don't think I have ever told you that it has been found + necessary here to legislate against water-cress. It was introduced a few + years since, and has spread so rapidly as to become a perfect nuisance, + choking every ditch in the neighbourhood of Christchurch, blocking up + mill-streams, causing meadows to be flooded, and doing all kinds of + mischief. + </p> + <p> + Towards Riccarton, about four miles out of town, the Avon shows like a + slender stream a few inches wide, moving sluggishly between thick beds of + water-cress, which at this time of year are a mass of white blossom. It + looks so perfectly solid that whenever I am at Ilam, an insane desire to + step on it comes over me, much to F——'s alarm, who says he is + afraid to let me out of his sight, lest I should attempt to do so. I have + only seen one native "bush" or forest yet, and that is at Riccarton. This + patch of tall, gaunt pines serves as a landmark for miles. Riccarton is + one of the oldest farms in the colony, and I am told it possesses a + beautiful garden. I can only see the gable-end of a house peeping out from + among the trees as I pass. This bush is most carefully preserved, but I + believe that every high wind injures it. + </p> + <p> + Christchurch is very prettily situated; for although it stands on a + perfectly flat plain, towards the sea there are the Port Hills, and the + town itself is picturesque, owing to the quantities of trees and the + irregular form of the wooden houses; and as a background we have the most + magnificent chain of mountains—the back-bone of the island—running + from north to south, the highest peaks nearly always covered with snow, + even after such a hot summer as this has been. The climate is now + delicious, answering in time of year to your September; but we have far + more enjoyable weather than your autumns can boast of. If the atmosphere + were no older than the date of the settlement of the colony, it could not + feel more <i>youthful</i>, it is so light and bright, and exhilarating! + The one drawback, and the only one, is the north-west wind; and the worst + of it is, that it blows very often from this point. However, I am assured + that I have not yet seen either a "howling nor'-wester," nor its exact + antithesis, "a sutherly buster." + </p> + <p> + We have lately been deprived of the amusement of going to see our house + during the process of cutting it out, as it has passed that stage, and has + been packed on drays and sent to the station, with two or three men to put + it up. It was preceded by two dray-loads of small rough-hewn stone piles, + which are first let into the ground six or eight feet apart: the + foundation joists rest on these, so as just to keep the flooring from + touching the earth. I did not like this plan (which is the usual one) at + all, as it seemed to me so insecure for the house to rest only on these + stones. I told the builder that I feared a strong "nor'-wester" (and I + hear they are particularly strong in the Malvern Hills) would blow the + whole affair away. He did not scout the idea as much as I could have + wished, but held out hopes to me that the roof would "kep it down." I + shall never dare to trust the baby out of my sight, lest he should be + blown away; and I have a plan for securing his cradle, by putting large + heavy stones in it, somewhere out of his way, so that he need not be hurt + by them. Some of the houses are built of "cob," especially those erected + in the very early days, when sawn timber was rare and valuable: this + material is simply wet clay with chopped tussocks stamped in. It makes + very thick walls, and they possess the great advantage of being cool in + summer and warm in winter. Whilst the house is new nothing can be nicer; + but, in a few years, the hot winds dry up the clay so much, that it + becomes quite pulverized; and a lady who lives in one of these houses told + me, that during a high wind she had often seen the dust from the walls + blowing in clouds about the rooms, despite of the canvas and paper, and + with all the windows carefully closed. + </p> + <p> + Next week F—— is going up to the station, to unpack and + arrange a little, and baby and I are going to be taken care of at Ilam, + the most charming place I have yet seen. I am looking forward to my visit + there with great pleasure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter VIII: Pleasant days at Ilam. + </h2> + <p> + Ilam, April 1866. We leave this to-morrow for the station in the most + extraordinary conveyance you ever saw. Imagine a flat tray with two low + seats in it, perched on four very high wheels, quite innocent of any step + or means of clambering in and out, and drawn, tandem-fashion, by two stout + mares; one of which has a little foal by her side. The advantage of this + vehicle is that it is very light, and holds a good deal of luggage. We + hope to accomplish the distance—fifty miles—in a day, easily. + </p> + <p> + Although this is not my first visit to Ilam, I don't think I have ever + described it to you. The house is of wood, two storeys high, and came out + from England! It is built on a brick foundation, which is quite unusual + here. Inside, it is exactly like a most charming English house, and when I + first stood in the drawing-room it was difficult to believe: that I was at + the other end of the world. All the newest books, papers, and periodicals + covered the tables, the newest music lay on the piano, whilst a profusion + of English greenhouse flowers in Minton's loveliest vases added to the + illusion. The Avon winds through the grounds, which are very pretty, and + are laid out in the English fashion; but in spite of the lawn with its + croquet-hoops and sticks, and the beds of flowers in all their late summer + beauty, there is a certain absence of the stiffness and trimness of + English pleasure-grounds, which shows that you have escaped from the + region of conventionalities. There are thick clumps of plantations, which + have grown luxuriantly, and look as if they had always been there. A curve + of the opposite bank is a dense mass of native flax bushes, with their + tall spikes of red blossom filling the air with a scent of honey, and + attracting all the bees in the neighbourhood. Ti-ti palms are dotted here + and there, and give a foreign and tropical appearance to the whole. There + is a large kitchen garden and orchard, with none of the restrictions of + high walls and locked gates which fence your English peaches and apricots. + </p> + <p> + The following is our receipt for killing time at Ilam:—After + breakfast, take the last <i>Cornhill</i> or <i>Macmillan</i>, put on a + shady hat, and sit or saunter by the river-side under the trees, gathering + any very tempting peach or apricot or plum or pear, until luncheon; same + thing until five o'clock tea; then cross the river by a rustic bridge, + ascend some turf steps to a large terrace-like meadow, sheltered from the + north-west winds by a thick belt of firs, blue gums, and poplars, and play + croquet on turf as level as a billiard-table until dinner. At these games + the cockatoo always assists, making himself very busy, waddling after his + mistress all over the field, and climbing up her mallet whenever he has an + opportunity. "Dr. Lindley"—so called from his taste for pulling + flowers to pieces—apparently for botanical purposes—is the + tamest and most affectionate of birds, and I do not believe he ever bit + any one in his life; he will allow himself to be pulled about, turned + upside down, scratched under his wings, all with the greatest + indifference, or rather with the most positive enjoyment. One evening I + could not play croquet for laughing at his antics. He took a sudden + dislike to a little rough terrier, and hunted him fairly off the ground at + last, chasing him all about, barking at him, and digging his beak into the + poor dog's paw. But the "Doctor's" best performance is when he imitates a + hawk. He reserves this fine piece of acting until his mistress is feeding + her poultry; then, when all the hens and chickens, turkeys, and pigeons + are in the quiet enjoyment of their breakfast or supper, the peculiar + shrill cry of a hawk is heard overhead, and the Doctor is seen circling in + the air, uttering a scream occasionally. The fowls never find out that it + is a hoax, but run to shelter, cackling in the greatest alarm—hens + clucking loudly for their chicks, turkeys crouching under the bushes, the + pigeons taking refuge in their house; as soon as the ground is quite + clear, Cocky changes his wild note for peals of laughter from a high tree, + and finally alighting on the top of a hen-coop filled with trembling + chickens, remarks in a suffocated voice, "You'll be the death of me." + </p> + <p> + I must reverse the proverb about the ridiculous and the sublime, and + finish my letter by telling you of Ilam's chief outdoor charm: from all + parts of the garden and grounds I can feast my eyes on the glorious chain + of mountains which I have before told you of, and my bedroom window has a + perfect panoramic view of them. I watch them under all their changes of + tint, and find each new phase the most beautiful. In the very early + morning I have often stood shivering at my window to see the noble outline + gradually assuming shape, and finally standing out sharp and clear against + a dazzling sky; then, as the sun rises, the softest rose-coloured and + golden tints touch the highest peaks, the shadows deepening by the + contrast. Before a "nor'-wester" the colours over these mountains and in + the sky are quite indescribable; no one but Turner could venture upon such + a mixture of pale sea-green with deep turquoise blue, purple with crimson + and orange. One morning an arch-like appearance in the clouds over the + furthest ranges was pointed out to me as the sure forerunner of a violent + gale from the north-west, and the prognostic was fulfilled. It was formed + of clouds of the deepest and richest colours; within its curve lay a bare + expanse of a wonderful green tint, crossed by the snowy <i>silhouette</i> + of the Southern Alps. A few hours afterwards the mountains were quite + hidden by mist, and a furious gale of hot wind was shaking the house as if + it must carry it off into the sky; it blew so continuously that the trees + and shrubs never seemed to rise for a moment against it. + </p> + <p> + These hot winds affect infants and children a good deal, and my baby is + not at all well. However, his doctor thinks the change to the station will + set him all right again, so we are hurrying off much sooner than our kind + friends here wish, and long before the little house in the hills can + possibly be made comfortable, though F—— is working very hard + to get things settled for us. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter IX: Death in our new home—New Zealand children. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, Malvern Hills, May 1866. I do not like to allow the first + Panama steamer to go without a line from me: this is the only letter I + shall attempt, and it will be but a short and sad one, for we are still in + the first bitterness of grief for the loss of our dear little baby. After + I last wrote to you he became very ill, but we hoped that his malady was + only caused by the unhealthiness of Christchurch during the autumn, and + that he would soon revive and get on well in this pure, beautiful mountain + air. We consequently hurried here as soon as ever we could get into the + house, and whilst the carpenters were still in it. Indeed, there was only + one bedroom ready for us when I arrived. The poor little man rallied at + first amazingly; the weather was exquisitely bright and sunny, and yet + bracing. Baby was to be kept in the open air as much as possible, so F—— + and I spent our days out on the downs near the house, carrying our little + treasure by turns: but all our care was fruitless: he got another and more + violent attack about a fortnight ago, and after a few hours of suffering + he was taken to the land where pain is unknown. During the last twelve + hours of his life, as I sat before the fire with him on my lap, poor F——kneeling + in a perfect agony of grief by my side, my greatest comfort was in looking + at that exquisite photograph from Kehren's picture of the "Good Shepherd," + which hangs over my bedroom mantelpiece, and thinking that our sweet + little lamb would soon be folded in those Divine, all-embracing Arms. It + is not a common picture; and the expression of the Saviour's face is most + beautiful, full of such immense feminine compassion and tenderness that it + makes me feel more vividly, "In all our sorrows He is afflicted." In such + a grief as this I find the conviction of the reality and depth of the + Divine sympathy is my only true comfort; the tenderest human love falls + short of the feeling that, without any words to express our sorrow, God + knows all about it; that He would not willingly afflict or grieve us, and + that therefore the anguish which wrings our hearts is absolutely necessary + in some mysterious way for our highest good. I fear I have often thought + lightly of others' trouble in the loss of so young a child; but now I know + what it is. Does it not seem strange and sad, that this little house in a + distant, lonely spot, no sooner becomes a home than it is baptized, as it + were, with tears? No doubt there are bright and happy days in store for us + yet, but these first ones here have been sadly darkened by this shadow of + death. Inanimate things have such a terrible power to wound one: though + everything which would remind me of Baby has been carefully removed and + hidden away by F——'s orders, still now and then I come across + some trifle belonging to him, and, as Miss Ingelow says— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "My old sorrow wakes and cries." +</pre> + <p> + Our loss is one too common out here, I am told: infants born in + Christchurch during the autumn very often die. Owing to the flatness of + the site of the town, it is almost impossible to get a proper system of + drainage; and the arrangements seem very bad, if you are to judge from the + evil smells which are abroad in the evening. Children who are born on a + station, or taken there as soon as possible, almost invariably thrive, but + babies are very difficult to rear in the towns. If they get over the first + year, they do well; and I cannot really call to mind a single sickly, or + even delicate-looking child among the swarms which one sees everywhere. + </p> + <p> + I cannot say that I think colonial children prepossessing in either + manners or appearance, in spite of their ruddy cheeks and sturdy limbs. + Even quite little things are pert and independent, and give me the idea of + being very much spoiled. When you reflect on the utter absence of any one + who can really be called a nurse, this is not to be wondered at. The + mothers are thoroughly domestic and devoted to their home duties, far more + so than the generality of the same class at home. An English lady, with + even an extremely moderate income, would look upon her colonial sister as + very hard-worked indeed. The children cannot be entrusted entirely to the + care of an ignorant girl, and the poor mother has them with her all day + long; if she goes out to pay visits (the only recognized social duty + here), she has to take the elder children with her, but this early + introduction into society does not appear to polish the young visitors' + manners in the least. There is not much rest at night for the + mater-familias with the inevitable baby, and it is of course very + difficult for her to be correcting small delinquents all day long; so they + grow up with what manners nature gives them. There seems to me, however, + to be a greater amount of real domestic happiness out here than at home: + perhaps the want of places of public amusement may have something to do + with this desirable state of affairs, but the homes seem to be thoroughly + happy ones. A married man is an object of envy to his less fortunate + brethren, and he appears anxious to show that he appreciates his good + fortune. As for scandal, in the ordinary acceptation of the word, it is + unknown; gossip there is in plenty, but it generally refers to each + other's pecuniary arrangements or trifling peculiarities, and is all + harmless enough. I really believe that the life most people lead here is + as simple and innocent as can well be imagined. Each family is occupied in + providing for its own little daily wants and cares, which supplies the + mind and body with healthy and legitimate employment, and yet, as my + experience tells me, they have plenty of leisure to do a kind turn for a + neighbour. This is the bright side of colonial life, and there is more to + be said in its praise; but the counterbalancing drawback is, that the + people seem gradually to lose the sense of larger and wider interests; + they have little time to keep pace with the general questions of the day, + and anything like sympathy or intellectual appreciation is very rare. I + meet accomplished people, but seldom well-read ones; there is also too + much talk about money: "where the treasure is, there will the heart be + also;" and the incessant financial discussions are wearisome, at least to + me. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter X: Our station home. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, July 1866. We are now in mid-winter, and a more delicious + season cannot well be imagined; the early mornings and evenings and the + nights are very cold, but the hours from 10 A.M. till 5 P.M. are + exquisitely bright, and quite warm. We are glad of a fire at breakfast, + which is tolerably early, but we let it out and never think of relighting + it until dark. Above all, it is calm: I congratulate myself daily on the + stillness of the atmosphere, but F—— laughs and says, "Wait + until the spring." I bask all day in the verandah, carrying my books and + work there soon after breakfast; as soon as the sun goes down, however, it + becomes very cold. In an English house you would hardly feel it, but with + only one plank an inch thick, a lining-board and canvas and paper, between + you and a hard frost, a good fire is wanted. We burn coal found twelve + miles from this; it is not very good, being only what is called "lignite." + I don't know if that conveys to you a distinct impression of what it + really is. I should say it was a better sort of turf: it smoulders just in + the same way, and if not disturbed will remain many hours alight; it + requires a log of dry wood with it to make a really good blaze. Fuel is + most difficult to get here, and very expensive, as we have no available + "bush" on the Run; so we have first to take out a licence for cutting wood + in the Government bush, then to employ men to cut it, and hire a drayman + who possesses a team of bullocks and a dray of his own, to fetch it to us: + he can only take two journeys a day, as he has four miles to travel each + way, so that by the time the wood is stacked it costs us at least thirty + shillings a cord, and then there is the labour of sawing and cutting it + up. The coal costs us one pound a ton at the mouth of the pit, and the + carriage exactly doubles its price; besides which it is impossible to get + more, than a small quantity at a time, on account of the effect of the + atmosphere on it. Exposure to the air causes it to crumble into dust, and + although we keep our supply in a little shed for the purpose, it is wasted + to the extent of at least a quarter of each load. We are unusually + unfortunate in the matter of firing; most stations have a bush near to the + homestead, or greater facilities for draying than we possess. + </p> + <p> + You tell me to describe my little house to you, so I must try to make you + see it, only prefacing my attempt by warning you not to be disgusted or + disappointed at any shortcomings. The house has not been built in a pretty + situation, as many other things had to be considered before a picturesque + site: first it was necessary to build on a flat (as the valleys here are + called), not too far off the main track, on account of having to make the + road to it ourselves; the next thing to be thought of was shelter from the + north-west wind; then the soil must be fit for a garden, and a good creek, + or brook, which would not go dry in the summer, close at hand. At present, + everything out of doors is so unfinished that the place looks rather + desolate, and it will be some years before our plantations can attain a + respectable size, even allowing for the rapid growth in this climate. The + first step is to obtain shelter from our enemy the "nor'-wester," and for + this purpose we have planted quantities of broom in all directions; even + the large beds for vegetables in the garden have a hedge of Cape broom on + the exposed side; fortunately, the broom grows very quickly in spite of + the wind, and attains to a luxuriant beauty rarely seen in England. We + have put in many other trees, such as oaks, maples, etc., but not one is + higher than this table, except a few poplars; the ground immediately + outside the house has been dug up, and is awaiting the spring to be sown + with English grass; we have no attempt at a flower-garden yet, but have + devoted our energies to the vegetable one,—putting in fruit trees, + preparing strawberry and asparagus beds, and other useful things. Out of + doors matters would not even be as far advanced towards a garden and + plantation as they are if we had commenced operations ourselves, but the + ground has been worked since last year. I am glad we have chosen to build + our house here instead of at the homestead two miles off; for I like to be + removed from the immediate neighbourhood of all the work of the station, + especially from that of the "gallows,"—a high wooden frame from + which the carcases of the butchered sheep dangle; under the present + arrangement the shepherd brings us over our mutton as we want it. + </p> + <p> + Inside the house everything is comfortable and pretty, and, above all + things, looks thoroughly home-like. Out of the verandah you pass through a + little hall hung with whips and sticks, spurs and hats, and with a + bookcase full of novels at one end of it, into a dining-room, large enough + for us, with more books in every available corner, the prints you know so + well on the walls, and a trophy of Indian swords and hunting-spears over + the fireplace: this leads into the drawing-room, a bright, cheery little + room—more books and pictures, and a writing-table in the "<i>h</i>oriel." + In that tall, white, classical-shaped vase of Minton's which you helped me + to choose is the most beautiful bouquet, made entirely of ferns; it is a + constant object for my walks up the gullies, exploring little patches of + bush to search for the ferns, which grow abundantly under their shelter by + the creek. I have a small but comfortable bedroom, and there is a little + dressing-room for F—— and the tiniest spare room you ever saw; + it really is not bigger than the cabin of a ship. I think the kitchen is + the chief glory of the house, boasting a "Leamington range" a luxury quite + unknown in these parts, where all the cooking is done on an American + stove,—a very good thing in its way, but requiring to be constantly + attended to. There is a good-sized storeroom, in which F—— has + just finished putting me up some cupboards, and a servants' room. It is + not a palace is it? But it is quite large enough to hold a great deal of + happiness. Outside, the premises are still more diminutive; a little + wash-house stands near the kitchen door, and further up the enclosure is a + stable, and a small room next it for saddles, and a fowl-house and + pig-stye, and a coal-shed. Now you know everything about my surroundings; + but—there is always a <i>but</i> in everything—I have one + great grievance, and I hope you will appreciate its magnitude. + </p> + <p> + It was impossible for F—— to come up here when the house was + first commenced, and the wretch of a builder deliberately put the + drawing-and dining-room fireplaces in the corner, right up against the + partition wall, of course utterly destroying the comfort as well as the + symmetry of the rooms. I am convinced some economy of bricks is at the + bottom of this arrangement, especially as the house was built by contract; + but the builder pretends to be surprised that I don't admire it, and says, + "Why, it's so oncommon, mum!" I assure you, when I first saw the + ridiculous appearance of the drawing-room pier-glass in the corner, I + should liked to have screamed out at the builder (like the Queen in "Alice + in Wonderland"), "Cut off his head!" + </p> + <p> + When we were packing up the things to come here, our friends expressed + their astonishment at our taking so many of the little elegancies of life, + such as drawing-room ornaments, pictures, etc. Now it is a great mistake + not to bring such things, at all events a few of them, for they are not to + be bought here, and they give the new home a certain likeness to the old + one which is always delightful. I do not advise people to make large + purchases of elegancies for a colonial life, but a few pretty little + trifles will greatly improve the look of even a New Zealand up-country + drawing-room. + </p> + <p> + You have asked me also about our wardrobes. Gentlemen wear just what they + would on a Scotch or English farm; in summer they require perhaps a + lighter hat, and long rides are always taken in boots and breeches. A lady + wears exactly what would be suitable in the country in England, except + that I should advise her to eschew muslin; the country outside the home + paddock is too rough for thin material; she also wants thick boots if she + is a good walker, and I find nails or little screws in the soles a great + help for hill-walking. A hat is my only difficulty: you really want a + shady hat for a protection against the sun, but there are very few days in + the year on which you can ride in anything but a close, small hat, with + hardly any brim at all, and even this must have capabilities of being + firmly fastened on the head. My nice, wide-brimmed Leghorn hangs idly in + the hall: there is hardly a morning still enough to induce me to put it on + even to go and feed my chickens or potter about the garden. This being + winter, I live in a short linsey dress, which is just right as to warmth, + and not heavy. It is a mistake to bring too much: a year's supply will be + quite enough; fresh material can easily be procured in Christchurch or any + of the large towns, or sent out by friends. I find my sewing-machine the + greatest possible comfort, and as time passes on and my clothes need + remodelling it will be still more use ful. Hitherto I have used it chiefly + for my friends' benefit; whilst I was in town I constantly had little + frocks brought to me to tuck, and here I employ it in making quilted cloth + hats for my gentlemen neighbours. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XI: Housekeeping, and other matters. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, September 1866. I am writing to you at the end of a fortnight + of very hard work, for I have just gone through my first experience in + changing servants; those I brought up with me four months ago were nice, + tidy girls and as a natural consequence of these attractive qualities they + have both left me to be married. I sent them down to Christchurch in the + dray, and made arrangements for two more servants to return in the same + conveyance at the end of a week. In the meantime we had to do everything + for ourselves, and on the whole we found this picnic life great fun. The + household consists, besides F—— and me, of a cadet, as they + are called—he is a clergyman's son learning sheep-farming under our + auspices—and a boy who milks the cows and does odd jobs out of + doors. We were all equally ignorant of practical cookery, so the chief + responsibility rested on my shoulders, and cost me some very anxious + moments, I assure you, for a cookery-book is after all but a broken reed + to lean on in a real emergency; it starts by assuming that its unhappy + student possesses a knowledge of at least the rudiments of the art, + whereas it ought not to disdain to tell you whether the water in which + potatoes are to be boiled should be hot or cold. I must confess that some + of my earliest efforts were both curious and nasty, but E ate my numerous + failures with the greatest good-humour; the only thing at which he made a + wry face was some soup into which a large lump of washing-soda had + mysteriously conveyed itself; and I also had to undergo a good deal of + "chaff" about my first omelette, which was of the size and consistency of + a roly-poly pudding. Next to these failures I think the bread was my + greatest misfortune; it went wrong from the first. One night I had + prepared the tin dish full of flour, made a hole in the midst of the soft + white heap, and was about to pour in a cupful of yeast to be mixed with + warm water (you see I know all about it in theory), when a sudden panic + seized me, and I was afraid to draw the cork of the large champagne bottle + full of yeast, which appeared to be very much "up." In this dilemma I went + for F——. You must know that he possesses such extraordinary + and revolutionary theories on the subject of cooking, that I am obliged to + banish him from the kitchen altogether, but on this occasion I thought I + should be glad of his assistance. He came with the greatest alacrity; + assured me he knew all about it, seized the big bottle, shook it + violently, and twitched out the cork: there was a report like a + pistol-shot, and all my beautiful yeast flew up to the ceiling of the + kitchen, descending in a shower on my head; and F—— turned the + bottle upside down over the flour, emptying the dregs of the hops and + potatoes into my unfortunate bread. However, I did not despair, but mixed + it up according to the directions given, and placed it on the stove; but, + as it turned out, in too warm a situation, for when I went early the next + morning to look at it, I found a very dry and crusty mass. Still, nothing + daunted, I persevered in the attempt, added more flour and water, and + finally made it up into loaves, which I deposited in the oven. That bread + <i>never</i> baked! I tried it with a knife in the orthodox manner, always + to find that it was raw inside. The crust gradually became several inches + thick, but the inside remained damp, and turned quite black at last; I + baked it until midnight, and then I gave it up and retired to bed in deep + disgust. I had no more yeast and could not try again, so we lived on + biscuits and potatoes till the dray returned at the end of the week, + bringing, however, only one servant. Owing to some confusion in the + drayman's arrangements, the cook had been left behind, and "Meary," the + new arrival, professed her willingness to supply her place; but on trial + being made of her abilities, she proved to be quite as inexperienced as I + was; and to each dish I proposed she should attempt, the unvarying answer + was, "The missis did all that where I come from." During the first few + days after her arrival her chief employment was examining the various + knick-knacks about the drawing-room; in her own department she was greatly + taken with the little cottage mangle. She mangled her own apron about + twenty times a day, and after each attempt I found her contemplating it + with her head on one side, and saying to herself, "'Deed, thin, it's as + smooth as smooth; how iver does it do it?" A few days later the cook + arrived. She is not all I could wish, being also Irish, and having the + most extraordinary notions of the use, or rather the abuse, of the various + kitchen implements: for instance, she will poke the fire with the toasting + fork, and disregards my gentle hints about the poker; but at all events + she can both roast mutton and bake bread. "Meary" has been induced to wash + her face and braid up her beautiful hair, and now shines forth as a very + pretty good-humoured girl. She is as clever and quick as possible, and + will in time be a capital housemaid. She has taken it into her head that + she would like to be a "first-rater," as she calls it, and works + desperately hard in the prosecution of her new fancy. + </p> + <p> + I have never told you of the Sunday services we established here from the + first week of our arrival. There is no church nearer than those in + Christchurch, nor—I may mention parenthetically—is there a + doctor within the same distance. As soon as our chairs and tables were in + their proper places, we invited our shepherds and those neighbours + immediately around us to attend service on Sunday afternoon at three + o'clock. F—— officiates as clergyman; <i>my</i> duties + resemble those of a beadle, as I have to arrange the congregation in their + places, see that they have Prayer-books, etc. Whenever we go out for a + ride, we turn our horses' heads up some beautiful valley, or deep gorge of + a river, in search of the huts of our neighbours' shepherds, that we may + tell the men of these services and invite them to attend. As yet, we have + met with no refusals, but it will give you an idea of the scantiness of + our population when I tell you that, after all our exertions, the + "outsiders" only amount to fourteen, and of these at least half are + gentlemen from neighbouring stations. With this number, in addition to our + own small group, we consider that we form quite a respectable gathering. + The congregation all arrive on horseback, each attended by at least two + big colley dogs; the horses are turned into the paddock, the saddles + deposited in the back verandah, and the dogs lie quietly down by their + respective masters' equipments until they are ready to start homewards. + There is something very wild and touching in these Sunday services. If the + weather is quite clear and warm, they are held in the verandah; but unless + it is a very sunny afternoon, it is too early in the year yet for this. + </p> + <p> + The shepherds are a very fine class of men as a rule, and I find them most + intelligent; they lead solitary lives, and are fond of reading; and as I + am anxious to substitute a better sort of literature in their huts than + the tattered yellow volumes which generally form their scanty library, I + lend them books from my own small collection. But, as I foresee that this + supply will soon be exhausted, we have started a Book Club, and sent to + London for twenty pounds' worth of books as a first instalment. We shall + get them second-hand from a large library, so I hope to receive a good + boxful. The club consists of twenty-eight members now, and will probably + amount to thirty-two, which is wonderful for this district. At the close + of a year from the first distribution of the books they are to be divided + into lots as near as possible in value to a pound each, the parcels to be + numbered, and corresponding figures written on slips of paper, which are + to be shaken up in a hat and drawn at random, each member claiming the + parcel of which the number answers to that on his ticket. This is the + fairest way I can think of for the distribution, and every one seems + satisfied with the scheme. The most popular books are those of travel or + adventure; unless a novel is really very good indeed, they do not care + about it. + </p> + <p> + The last little item of home news with which I must close this month's + budget is, that F—— has been away for a few days on a skating + excursion. A rather distant neighbour of ours called on his way up to the + station far back among the hills, and gave such a glowing account of the + condition of the ice in that part of the country, that F——, + who is very fond of the amusement, was persuaded to accompany him. Our + friend is the son of the Bishop, and owns a large station about twenty-six + miles from this. At the back of his run the hills rise to a great height, + and nestled among them lie a chain of lakes, after the largest of which + (Lake Coleridge) Mr. H——'s station is named. On one of the + smaller lakes, called by the classical name of "Ida," the ice attains to a + great thickness; for it is surrounded by such lofty hills that during the + winter months the sun hardly touches it, and it is commonly reported that + a heavily-laden bullock-dray could cross it in perfect safety. F——was + away nearly a week, and appears to have enjoyed himself thoroughly, though + it will seem to you more of hard work than amusement; for he and Mr. H——, + and some other gentlemen who were staying there, used to mount directly + after breakfast, with their skates tied to their saddle-bow, and ride + twelve miles to Lake Ida, skate all through the short winter's day, + lunching at the solitary hut of a gentleman-farmer close by the lake, and + when it grew dusk riding home again. The gentlemen in this country are in + such good training through constant exercise, that they appear able to + stand any amount of fatigue without minding it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XII: My first expedition. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, October 1866. This ought to be early spring, but the weather + is really colder and more disagreeable than any which winter brought us; + and, proverbially fickle as spring sunshine and showers are in England, + ours is a far more capricious and trying season. Twice during this month + have I been a victim to these sudden changes of climate; on the first + occasion it was most fortunate that we had reached the shelter of a + friendly and hospitable roof, for it was three days before we could + re-cross the mountain-pass which lay between us and home. One beautiful + spring morning F—— asked me if I would like to ride across the + hills, and pay my first visit to some kind and old friends of his, who + were among the earliest arrivals in the province, and who have made a + lovely home for themselves at the foot of a great Bush on the other side + of our range. I was delighted at the idea, for I have had very little + opportunity of going about since we came here, owing to the short winter + days and the amount of occupation at home consequent on a new + establishment. + </p> + <p> + Directly after breakfast, the horses were caught and saddled, and we + started in high spirits. As we rode up the long, sunny valley stretching + away for miles at the back of the house, F—— pointed out to + me, with all a sheep-farmer's pride, the hundreds of pretty little + curly-fleeced lambs skipping about the low hill-sides. After we passed our + own boundary fence we came upon a very bad track,—this is the name + by which all roads are called, and they do not deserve a better,—but + it was the only path to our destination. The air was mild and balmy, and + the sun shone brightly as we slowly picked our way across bogs and creeks, + and up and down steep, slippery hill-sides; but just as we reached the + lowest saddle of the range and prepared to descend, a cold wind met us. In + an instant the sunshine was overclouded, and F——, pointing to + a grey bank of cloud moving quickly towards us, said, "There is a + tremendous sou'-wester coming up; we had better push on for shelter, or + you'll be drowned:" but, alas! at each step the road grew worse and worse; + where it was level the ground was literally honeycombed with deep holes + half full of water, and at last we came to a place where the horse had to + descend a flight of stone steps, each step being extremely slippery and + some way below the other; and at the bottom of this horrible staircase + there was a wide jump to be taken, the spring being off the lowest step, + and the jump upwards alighting on a steep bank up which the horses + scrambled like cats. Getting wet through appeared to me a very minor evil + compared to the dangers of such a road, but F—— urged me + forward, with assurances that the horse knew the path perfectly well and + could carry me at a gallop quite safely; but it was impossible to infuse + sufficient courage into my drooping heart to induce me to go faster than a + walk. + </p> + <p> + All this time the storm drew rapidly nearer, the wind blew in icy cold + gusts, the hail came down in large stones, pelting our faces till they + tingled again; it was nearly an hour before we rode up to the hospitable, + ever-open porch door of Rockwood. I was immediately lifted off my saddle + by kind and strong arms, and carried with frozen limbs and streaming habit + into the kitchen, for I was as unfit for the drawing-room as my own + water-spaniel. A blazing wood fire was hastily lighted in one of the + bed-rooms, and thither the good hostess conveyed me. I emerged from that + apartment the most extraordinary figure you ever saw. Imagine me arrayed + in a short and very wide crinoline, over which was a bright-coloured + linsey petticoat; an old pilot-coat for a jacket, huge carpet slippers on + my feet, and my dripping hair hanging loose over my shoulders! I assure + you, I looked like the portraits in books of travel, of the Tahitian women + when they first assumed clothes; and the worst of it was, that I had to + remain in this costume for three whole days. To return was impossible, the + storm from the S.W. raged all that evening. When we opened our eyes next + morning, snow was lying some inches deep, and still falling fast; there + was no cessation for forty-eight hours, and then we had to give it time to + thaw a little, so that it was Sunday morning before we started on our + homeward ride. In the meantime, nothing could afford a greater contrast to + the wild weather out of doors than the snug brightness within. Blazing + logs of pine and black birch made every room warm and cheery; all day we + chatted and amused ourselves in different ways (I learned to make a + capital pudding, and acquainted myself with the mysteries of "junket"); in + the evenings we had whist for an hour, and then either round games or + songs. The young men of the house have nice voices and a great feeling for + music, and some of the trios and glees went very well indeed. The only + thing which spoilt my enjoyment was the constantly recurring remembrance + of that terrible road. F—— tried to comfort me by assurances + that the snow would have filled up the worst places so much that I should + not see them, but, strange to say, I failed to derive any consolation from + that idea; however, we accomplished the journey back safely, but with many + slips and slides. As soon as we came on our own run, F——began + to look out for dead lambs, but fortunately there were not many for him to + mourn over; they must have taken shelter under the low hills, to leeward + of the storm. + </p> + <p> + The second ride was much longer, and if possible a more disagreeable one. + It began just in the same way; we were again decoyed out by sunshine and + soft air for a ride round the run, starting about half-past ten. The + scenery was beautiful, and we enjoyed ourselves immensely. The track lay + along our own boundary fence most of the way, and we had ridden about ten + miles, when we stopped at one of our shepherds' huts, technically called + an out station, and accepted his offer of luncheon. He gave us capital + tea, with an egg beaten up in it as a substitute for milk, cold mutton, + bread, and a cake; the reason of these unwonted luxuries was that he kept + fowls, and I was very jealous at seeing two broods of chickens out, whilst + mine are still in the shell. This man is quite an artist, and the walls of + his but were covered with bold pen-and-ink sketches, chiefly reminiscences + of the hunting-field in England, or his own adventures "getting out" wild + cattle on the Black Hills in the north of the province: he leads an + extremely-solitary existence, his dogs being his only companions; his + duties consist in riding daily a boundary down the gorge of the river, + which he has to cross and re-cross many times: and he has to supply the + home station and our house with mutton, killing four or five sheep a week. + He is employed out of doors all day, but has plenty of time in the + evenings for reading I found him well-informed and intelligent, and he + expresses himself exceedingly well. We rested here an hour, and as we went + outside and prepared to mount, F—— said, "I really believe + there is <i>another</i> sou'-wester coming up," and so there was: we could + not go fast, for we were riding over a dry river-bed, composed entirely of + loose large stones. Every few hundred yards we had to cross the river + Selwyn, which was rising rapidly, as the storm had been raging in the + mountains long before it reached us; on each side were high, steep hills, + and in some places the river filled up the gorge entirely, and we had to + ride in the water up to our saddle-girths. All this time the rain was + coming down in sheets, but the wind grew colder and colder; at last the + rain turned into snow, which speedily changed us and our horses into white + moving figures. Eight long weary miles of this had we, only able to trot + the last two, and those over very swampy ground. In your country a severe + cold would probably have been the least evil of this escapade, but here no + such consequence follow a good wetting; the houses are so little real + protection from the weather, that you are forced to live as it were in the + open air, whether you like it or not, and this hardens the constitution so + much, that it is not easy to take cold from a little extra exposure. Men + are apt to be careless and remain in their wet things, or stand before a + fire till their clothes dry on them; and whenever I scold any one for + being foolish, he always acknowledges that if he does but change when he + comes into a house, he <i>never</i> catches cold from any amount of + exposure to the severest weather. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XIII: Bachelor hospitality.—a gale on shore. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, November 1866. We have lately made a much longer excursion + than those I told you of last, month, and this time have been fortunate in + meeting with fine weather above all, our expedition has been over + perfectly level ground, and on a good "track," which has greatly increased + its charms in my eyes. A fortnight ago early summer set fairly in, and + some bachelor neighbours took advantage of the change to ride over to see + us, and arrange a plan for the following week. It all fitted in nicely, + for F—— was obliged to go to Christchurch at that time, and + the first idea of the expedition originated in my saying how dull I was at + the station when he was away. I can get on very well all day; with my + various employments—feeding the chickens, taking the big dogs out + for a walk, and so on: but after the house is quiet and silent for the + night, and the servants have gone to bed, a horrible lonely eerie feeling + comes over me; the solitude is so dreary, and the silence so intense, only + broken occasionally by the wild, melancholy cry of the weka. However, I am + very rarely tried in this way, and when I am it can't be helped, if that + is any consolation. + </p> + <p> + I forget whether I told you that we left all "evening things," and other + toilette necessaries which would not be wanted up country, behind us in + Christchurch, so as to avoid the trouble of sending any luggage backwards + or forwards. It is necessary to mention this, to account for the very + light marching order in which we travelled. It was a lovely summer morning + on which we left home, meaning to be away nearly a week, from Monday till + Saturday. We were well mounted, and all our luggage consisted of my little + travelling-bag fastened to the pommel of my saddle, containing our brushes + and combs, and what is termed a "swag" in front of F——'s + saddle; that is, a long narrow bundle, in this instance enclosed in a neat + waterproof case, and fastened with two straps to the "D's," which are + steel loops let in in four places to all colonial saddles, for the purpose + of carrying blankets, etc.; they derive their name apparently from their + resemblance to the letter. In this parcel our most indispensable garments + were tightly packed. We cantered gaily along on the way to Christchurch, + the horses appearing to enjoy the delicious air and soft springy turf as + much as we did. There was a river and half-a-dozen creeks to be crossed; + but they are all quite low at this time of year. As we stood in one of + them to let the horses drink and cool their legs, I saw a huge eel hidden + under the shadow of a high overhanging bank, waiting till the evening to + come out and feed upon the myriads of flies and little white moths that + skim over the surface of the water. + </p> + <p> + It is considered a great advantage to our station that there is only the + river Selwyn (of which the Maori name is the Wai-kiri-kiri) between us and + town, not only for our own convenience, but because it is easy to take + sheep across it, and it offers no difficulties to the wool drays. This + river has a very good reputation, and is very rarely dangerous to cross; + whereas the Rakaia and the Rangitata towards the south, and the + Waimakiriri towards the north, of Christchurch, are most difficult, and + always liable to sudden freshes. The general mode of crossing the larger + rivers is by a boat, with the horse swimming behind; but accidents + constantly occur from the foolhardiness of people attempting to ford them + alone on horseback: they are lost in quicksands, or carried down by the + current, before they can even realize that they are in danger. The common + saying in New Zealand is, that people only die from drowning and + drunkenness. I am afraid the former is generally the result of the latter. + </p> + <p> + From the first our road lay with our backs to the hills; but as we + cantered along the plains, I was often obliged to turn round and admire + their grand outlines. The highest ranges were still snow-white, and made a + magnificent background against the summer sky. An easy twelve miles' ride + brought us to a charming little station, called by the pretty native name + of Waireka; here lived our three bachelor hosts, and a nicer or more + comfortable home in a distant land could not be desired. The house has + been built for some years, consequently the plantations about it and the + garden have grown up well, and the willows, gum-trees, and poplars shelter + it perfectly, besides giving it such a snug home look. It stands on a vast + plain, without even an undulation of the ground near it; but the mountains + form a grand panoramic view. There is a large wide verandah round two + sides of the house, with French windows opening into it; and I could not + help feeling impatient to see my own creepers in such luxuriant, beauty as + these roses and honeysuckles were. It was half amusing and half pathetic + to notice the preparations which had been made to receive a lady guest, + and the great anxiety of my hosts to ensure my being quite as comfortable + as I am at home. Much had been said beforehand about the necessity of + making up my mind to rough it in bachelor quarters, so I was surprised to + find all sorts of luxuries in my room, especially a dainty little + toilette-table, draped with white cloths (a big wooden packing-case was + its foundation). Its ornaments were all sorts of nondescript treasures, + placed in boxes at the last moment of leaving the English hall or rectory + by careful loving hands of mothers and sisters, and lying unused for years + until now. There was a little china tray, which had been slipped into some + corner by a child-sister anxious to send some possession of her "very own" + out to the other end of the world; there was a vase with flowers; a + parti-coloured pin-cushion of very gay silks, probably the parting gift of + an old nurse; and a curious old-fashioned essence bottle, with + eau-de-cologne; the surrounding country had been ransacked to procure a + piece of scented soap. The only thing to remind me that I was not in an + English cottage was the opossum rug with which the neat little bed was + covered. The sitting-room looked the picture of cosy comfort, with its + well-filled book-shelves, arm-chairs, sofa with another opossum rug thrown + over it, and the open fireplace filled with ferns and tufts of the white + feathery Tohi grass in front of the green background. We enjoyed our + luncheon, or rather early dinner, immensely after our ride; and in the + afternoon went out to see the nice large garden (such a contrast to our + wretched little beginnings), and finally strolled on to the inevitable + wool-shed, where the gentlemen had an animated "sheep talk." I rather + enjoy these discussions, though they are prefaced by an apology for + "talking shop;" but it amuses me, and I like to see the samples of wool, + which are generally handed about in the heat of a great argument, the long + white locks are so glistening, and soft, and crinkly. + </p> + <p> + My five-o'clock tea was duly remembered, and then, as there was nothing + more to see out of doors within a short distance, I proposed that I should + make a cake. The necessary ingredients were quickly collected. I had + relays of volunteers to beat up the eggs, and though I suffered great + anxiety until it was cut at supper, it turned out satisfactorily. The + worst of my cookery is, that while I always follow the same directions + most carefully, there is great uncertainty and variety about the result. + In the evening we played round games. But we all went early to bed, as, we + had to be up betimes, and in the saddle by seven o'clock, to catch the + 9-30 train at Rolleston; twenty miles off. We had a beautiful, still + morning for our ride, and reached the station—a shed standing out on + the plain—in time to see our horses safely paddocked before the + train started for Christchurch. The distance by rail was only fifteen + miles, so we were not long about it; and we walked to the hotel from the + railway-station in the town. A bath and breakfast were both very + enjoyable, and then F—— went out to transact his business, and + I employed myself in unpacking and <i>ironing</i> a ball-dress for a + party, to which we were engaged that evening. There was also another ball + the following night. The second was a very late one, and we had scarcely + an hour's sleep before we were obliged to get up and start by the 6 A.M. + train back to Rolleston, where we remounted our horses and rode to dear + little Waireka in time for breakfast. By the evening I was sufficiently + rested to make another cake, which also, happily, turned out well. + </p> + <p> + We intended to return home the next day (Friday), but a terrific + "nor'-wester" came on in the night, and it was impossible to stir out of + the house; it was the severest gale since our arrival, and it is hardly + possible to give you a correct idea of the force and fury of the wind. Not + a glimpse of the mountains was to be seen; a haze of dust, as thick as any + fog, shut everything out. The sheep had all taken refuge under the high + banks of the creeks. It is curious that sheep always feed head to wind in + a nor'-west gale, whereas they will drift for miles before a sou'-wester. + The trees bent almost flat before the hot breath of this hurricane, and + although the house was built of cob, and its walls were very thick and + solid, the creaking and swaying of the shingled roof kept me in perpetual + alarm. The verandah was a great protection; and yet the small + river-pebbles, of which the garden-walk was made, were dashed against the + windows like hailstones by each gust. We amused ourselves indoors by the + study and composition of acrostics, and so got through an imprisonment of + two days, without a moment's cessation of the wind; but towards sunset on + Saturday there were signs of a lull, and about midnight the gale dropped; + and we heard the grateful, refreshing sound of soft and continuous rain, + and when we came out to breakfast on Sunday morning everything looked + revived again. It is a most fortunate meteorological fact that these very + high winds are generally succeeded by heavy rain; everything is so parched + and shrivelled up by them that I do not know what would become of the + vegetation otherwise. We held a council, to determine what had better be + done about returning home, and finally decided to risk a wet ride sooner + than disappoint the little congregation; for should it prove a fine + afternoon, those who lived near would certainly come; so we mounted after + breakfast. + </p> + <p> + I was wrapped in one of the gentlemen's macintoshes, and found the ride + far from disagreeable. As we neared our own station we began to look out + for signs of disaster; and about half a mile from the house saw some of + the vanes from the chimneys on the track; a little nearer home, across the + path lay a large zinc chimney-pot; then another; and when we came close + enough to see the house distinctly, it looked very much dwarfed without + its chimneys. There had been a large pile of empty boxes at the back of + the stable; these were all blown away in the gale. One huge packing-case + was sailing tranquilly about on the pond, and planks and fragments of zinc + were strewn over the paddock. The moment we reached the house, Mr. U——, + the gentleman-cadet of whom I have told you, came out, with a melancholy + face, to tell me that a large wooden cage, full of the canaries which I + had brought from England with me, had been blown out of the verandah, + though it was on the most sheltered side of the house. It really seemed + incredible at first, but the cage was lying in ruins in the middle of the + paddock, and all my birds except one had disappeared. It happened in the + middle of the night, and Mr. U——described, very amusingly, + that when he was awakened by the noise which the cage made against a wire + fence (which it just "topped" in passing), he sprang out of his bed in the + attic, and clambered out of the window, expecting to find the very heavy + sort of staircase-ladder in its place; but it was "over the hills and far + away," so he had a drop of about twelve feet to the ground, which + thoroughly aroused him. He went into the verandah to see if the cage was + safe, and was nearly knocked down by a big tin bath, ordinarily kept + there, which was just starting across country. As soon as he missed the + cage he very pluckily went after it, being able to keep sight of it by the + fitful gleams of moon-light, and he was just in time to rescue the poor + little surviving canary. We could not help laughing at the recital of all + the mischief which had been done, but still it is very tiresome, and the + garden looks, if possible, more wretched than ever. There is no shelter + for it yet, and my poor green-peas are blown nearly out of the ground. It + rained hard all the evening, so our congregation was confined to the home + party. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XIV: A Christmas picnic, and other doings. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, December 1866. It is too late to wish you a merry Christmas + and a happy New Year in this letter. In order to allow them to reach you + in time I should have sent my good wishes in October's letter; I must + remember to do so next year. I am writing on the last days of the month, + so I shall be able to tell you of our own Christmas doings; though, first, + I must describe the festivities attending a "coming of age in the Bush," + to which we were invited about the middle of this month. How strange + Christmas picnics and balls will appear in your eyes, before which still + dangle probably the dear old traditional holly and ivy! I am obliged to + preface all my descriptions with an account of a ride, if I am to begin, + according to your repeated injunctions, at the very beginning; for a ride + is quite certain to be both the beginning and end of each excursion, + simply because we have no other means of going about, except on our feet. + The ride upon this occasion was to Rockwood, where the birthday party was + to assemble, but the road had not now so many terrors for me. In + consequence of the fine dry weather, most of the bad places were safer and + firmer, and the numerous creeks were only shallow sparkling streamlets + over which a child could jump, instead of the muddy noisy wide brooks of + three months ago. The day on which we started, this time, was a great + contrast to the former one. When we reached the saddle I have before told + you of, instead of being met and nearly driven back by a violent "sutherly + buster," we stopped before beginning the steep descent to admire the + exquisite view before us. + </p> + <p> + Close on our right hand rose the Government bush out of which we get our + firewood, standing grand and gloomy amid huge cliffs and crags; even the + summer sunshine could not enliven it, nor the twitter and chirrup of + countless birds. In front, the chain of hills we were crossing rolled down + in gradually decreasing hillocks, till they merged in the vast plains + before us, stretching away as far as the eye could reach towards the + south, all quivering in the haze and glare of the bright sunlight. The + background, extending along the horizon, was formed of lofty mountains + still glistening white against the dazzling blue sky. Just at our feet the + Rockwood paddocks looked like carpets of emerald velvet, spread out among + the yellowish tussocks; the fences which enclose them were either golden + with broom and gorse, or gay with wild roses and honeysuckle. Beyond these + we saw the bright patches of flowers in the garden, and nothing could be + more effective than the white gable of the house standing out against the + vast black birch forest which clothed the steep hill-sides for miles—the + contrast was so picturesque between the little bit of civilization and + culture and the great extent of wild, savage scenery around it. After the + utter treelessness of our own immediate neighbourhood, the sight of such a + mass of foliage is a joy to my eyes. + </p> + <p> + The day following our arrival was <i>the</i> birthday, and we prepared to + enjoy every hour of it. The party assembled was a very large one, + consisting, however, chiefly of gentlemen, for the utmost exertions in the + district could not produce more than five ladies altogether, and two of + those had come an immense way. Directly after breakfast we all sallied + forth, the ladies equipped in light cotton dresses (muslin is too thin for + the bush) and little sailor hats,—we did not want shady ones, for + never a gleam of sun can penetrate into a real New Zealand Bush, unless in + a spot which has been very much cleared. Strong boots with nails in the + soles, to help us to keep on our feet up the steep clay hill-sides, and a + stout stick, completed our equipment; perhaps we were not very smart, but + we looked like going at all events. I can answer for myself that I enjoyed + every moment of that long Midsummer holiday most intensely, though I fear + I must have wearied our dear, charming host, by my incessant questions + about the names of the trees and shrubs, and of the habits and ways of the + thousands of birds. It was all so new and so delightful to me,—the + green gloom, the hoarse croak of the ka-ka, as it alighted almost at our + feet and prepared, quite careless of our vicinity, to tear up the loose + soil at the root of a tall tree, in search of grubs. It is a species of + parrot, but with very dingy reddish-brown plumage, only slightly enlivened + by a few, scarlet feathers in the wing. The air was gay with bright green + parroquets flitting about, very mischievous they are, I am told, taking + large tithe of the fruit, especially of the cherries. Every now and then + we stood, by common consent, silent and almost breathless to listen to the + Bell-bird, a dingy little fellow, nearly as large as a thrush with the + plumage of a chaffinch, but with such a note!—how can I make you + hear its wild, sweet, plaintive tone, as a little girl of the party said, + "just as if it had a bell in its throat;" but indeed it would require a + whole peal of silver bells to ring such an exquisite chime. Then we crept + softly up to a low branch, to have a good look at the Tui, or Parson-bird, + most respectable and clerical-looking in its glossy black suit, with a + singularly trim and dapper air, and white wattles of very slender feathers—indeed + they are as fine as hair-curled coquettishly at each side of his throat, + exactly like bands. All the birds were quite tame, and, instead of + avoiding us, seemed inclined to examine us minutely. Many of them have + English names, which I found very tantalising, especially when, the New + Zealand Robin was announced, and I could only see a fat little ball of a + bird, with a yellowish-white breast. Animals there are none. No quadruped + is indigenous to New Zealand, except a rat; but then, on the other hand, + we are as free from snakes and all vermin as if St. Patrick himself had + lived here. Our host has turned several pheasants into this forest, but + they increase very slowly on account of the wekas. However, the happiness + of this morning was made complete by our putting up two splendid + rocketers. + </p> + <p> + We could only make our way by the paths which have been cut through the + Bush; a yard off the track it is impossible to stir for the dense + undergrowth. In the ravines and steep gullies formed by the creeks grow + masses of ferns of all sorts, spreading like large shrubs, and contrasting + by their light bright green with the black stems of the birch-trees around + them. There are a few pines in this bush, but not many. I can give you no + idea of the variety among the shrubs: the koromika, like an Alpine rose, a + compact ball of foliage; the lance-wood, a tall, slender stem, straight as + a line, with a few long leaves at the top, turned downwards like the barb + of a spear, and looking exactly like a lance stuck into the ground; the + varieties of matapo, a beautiful shrub, each leaf a study, with its + delicate tracery of black veins on a yellow-green ground; the mappo, the + gohi, and many others, any of which would be the glory of an English + shrubbery: but they seem to require the deep shelter of their native Bush, + for they never flourish when transplanted. I noticed the slender the large + trees have of the ground, and it is not at all surprising, after such a + gale as we had three weeks ago, to see many of the finest blown down in + the clearings where the wind could reach them. They do not seem to have + any tap-root at all, merely a very insufficient network of fibres, seldom + of any size, which spreads a short way along the surface of the ground As + long as a Bush is undisturbed by civilization, it appears to be impervious + to wind or weather; but as soon as it is opened and cleared a little, it + begins to diminish rapidly. There are traces all over the hills of vast + forests having once existed; chiefly of totara, a sort of red pine, and + those about us are scattered with huge logs of this valuable wood, all + bearing traces of the action of fire; but shepherds, and explorers on + expeditions, looking for country, have gradually consumed them for fuel, + till not many pieces remain except on the highest and most inaccessible + ranges. + </p> + <p> + It was a delightful, and by no means unacceptable surprise which awaited + us on the other side, when, on emerging from a very thick part of the + Bush, we came on a lovely spot, a true "meeting of the waters." Three + broad, bright creeks came rushing and tumbling down from the densely + wooded hills about to join and flow on in quite a good-sized river, amid + boulders and a great deal of hurry and fuss,—a contrast to the + profound quiet of our ramble hitherto, the silence of which was only + broken by the twitter and whistle of the birds. Never a song can you hear, + only a sweet chirrup, or two or three melodious notes. On the opposite + bank of the river there was the welcome sight of several hampers more or + less unpacked, and the gleam of a white tablecloth on the moss. + Half-a-dozen gentlemen had formed themselves into a commissariat, and were + arranging luncheon. We could see the champagne cooling in a sort of little + bay, protected by a dam of big stones from being carried down the stream. + It all looked very charming and inviting, but the next question was how to + get across the river to these good things. Twelve or fourteen feet + separated us, hungry and tired wanderers as we were, from food and rest; + the only crossing-place was some miles lower down, near the house in fact; + so even the most timid amongst us scouted the idea of retracing our steps. + The only alternative was to make a bridge: one of the gentlemen who were + with us carried an axe in case of emergency, and in a moment we heard the + sharp ringing sounds foretelling the fall of a tree. In the mean-time, + others of the party were dragging out fallen logs—of course small + and manageable ones—and laying them from one huge boulder to + another, working up to their knees in water. So many of these prostrate + trunks were "convenient," that a cry soon arose to the woodman to "spare + the trees," for there were quite enough on the ground. However, two + substantial poles had been felled, and these were laid over the deepest + and most dangerous part of the current. The bridge was soon declared + passable, and loud shouts from the opposite side proclaimed that luncheon + was quite ready. I was called, as having a most undeserved reputation for + "pluck," to make trial of the aerial-looking fabric. I did not like it at + all, and entreated some one else to lead the forlorn hope; so a very quiet + young lady, who really possessed more courage in her little finger than I + do in my whole body, volunteered to go first. The effect from the bank was + something like tight-rope dancing, and it was very difficult to keep one's + balance. Miss Kate, our pioneer, walked on very steadily, amid great + applause, till she reached the middle of the stream, where fortunately the + water was shallow, but strewed with masses of boulders. She paused an + instant on the large rock on which the ends of the saplings rested, and + then started afresh for the last half of her journey. The instant she put + her foot on the second part of the bridge, it gave way with a loud crash; + and the poor girl, with great presence of mind, caught at the tree she, + had just crossed, and so saved herself from a ducking. Of course, she had + plenty of help in an instant, but the difficulty was to regain any sort of + footing. She could not drop into the water, and there was apparently no + way of dragging herself up again; but one of the gentlemen crept on hands + and knees along the unbroken part of the bridge, and eventually helped her + up the sides of the large boulder which acted as a pier, and from which + the log had slipped. From the other side they now pushed across tall, slim + trees, freshly cut, and the rest of the passage was safe enough. I did not + like the mode of transit at all, though I got over without a slip, but it + requires a steady head to cross a noisy stream on two slippery round poles—for + really the trees were little thicker—laid side by side, bending with + every step. It was a great comfort to me all luncheon-time to know that we + were not to return by the same path through the Bush. We had a good rest + after lunch: I lay back on a bed of fern, watching the numbers of little + birds around us; they boldly picked up our crumbs, without a thought of + possible danger. Presently I felt a tug at the shawl on which I was lying: + I was too lazy and dreamy to turn my head, so the next thing was a sharp + dig on my arm, which hurt me dreadfully. I looked round, and there was a + weka bent on thoroughly investigating the intruder into its domain. The + bird looked so cool and unconcerned, that I had not the heart to follow my + first impulse and throw my stick at it; but my forbearance was presently + rewarded by a stab on the ankle, which fairly made me jump up with a + scream, when my persecutor glided gracefully away among the bushes, + leaving me, like Lord Ullin, "lamenting." + </p> + <p> + We sauntered home slowly, gathering armfuls of, fern and a large variety + of a stag's-head moss so common on the west coast of Scotland; and as soon + as we had had some tea, the gentlemen went off with their towels to bathe + in the creek, and the five ladies set to work at the decorations for the + ball-room, weaving wreaths and arranging enormous bouquets very rapidly: + we had such a wealth of flowers to work with that our task was not + difficult. The most amusing part of the story is, however, that the ball + took place in my bed-room! A very pompous lady of my acquaintance always + prefaces the slenderest anecdote with these words, "And it happened in + this wise," so I think I shall avail myself of the <i>tour de phrase</i>. + </p> + <p> + It happened in this wise, then:-a large well-proportioned room had been + added to the house lately; it was intended for a drawing-room, but for + some reason has only been used as a spare bed-room, but as it may possibly + return to its original destination, very little bed-room furniture has + been put in it, and many of its belongings are appropriate to a + sitting-room. We called in the servants, the light cane bedstead was soon + deposited under the shade of a tree in the garden, the washing-stand was + similarly disposed of, and an hour's work with hammer and nails and a ball + of string turned the room into a perfect bower of ferns and flowers: great + ingenuity was displayed in the arrangement of lights, and the result was a + very pretty ball-room. + </p> + <p> + We are always eating in this country, so you will not be surprised to hear + that there was yet another meal to be disposed of before we separated to + dress in all sorts of nooks and corners. White muslin was the universal + costume, as it can be packed flat and smooth. My gown had been carried + over by F—— in front of his saddle in a very small parcel: I + covered it almost entirely with sprays of the light-green stag's-head, + moss, and made a wreath of it also for my hair. I think that with the + other ladies roses were the most popular decoration, and they looked very + fresh and nice. I was the universal <i>coiffeuse</i>, and I dressed all + the girls' heads with flowers, as I was supposed to be best up in the + latest fashions. In the meantime, the piano had been moved to the + bay-window of the ball-room, and at ten o'clock dancing commenced, and may + be truly said to have been kept up with great spirit until four o'clock: + it only ceased then on account of the state of exhaustion of the + unfortunate five ladies, who had been nearly killed with incessant + dancing. I threw a shawl over my head, and sauntered alone up one of the + many paths close to the house which led into the Bush. Tired as I was, I + shall never forget the beauty and romance of that hour,—the + delicious crisp <i>new</i> feeling of the morning air; the very roses, + growing like a red fringe on the skirts of the great Bush, seemed awaking + to fresh life and perfume; the numbers of gay lizards and flies coming out + for their morning meal, and, above all, the first awakening of the myriads + of Bush-birds; every conceivable twitter and chatter and chirrup; the last + cry of a very pretty little owl, called, from its distinctly uttered + words, the "More-pork," as it flitted away before the dawn to the highest + trees: all made up a jubilant uproar compared to which one of the Crystal + Palace choruses is silence. I sat down on a fallen tree, and listened and + waited: every moment added to the lovely dawn around me, and I enjoyed to + the full the fragrant smells and joyous sounds of another day in this + fresh young land. + </p> + <p> + All too soon came a loud "coo-ee" from the house, which I allowed them to + repeat before I answered; this was to tell me that the ball-room was + deserted, and had been again turned into a bed-room. When I opened my eyes + later, after a six hours' nap, the room looked like a fairy bower, the + flowers still unfaded. We had another picnic the next day up the gorge of + a river, amid very wild and beautiful scenery; but everything had been + arranged so as to make the expedition an easy one, out of consideration to + the weary five. The day after this we rode home again, and I had to set to + work directly to prepare for my own Christmas party to the shepherds and + shearers,—for we have just commenced to muster the sheep, and the + shearing will be in full force by Christmas Day. One great object I have + in view in giving this party is to prevent the shearers from going over to + the nearest accommodation-house and getting tipsy, as they otherwise + would; so I have taken care to issue my invitations early. I found great + difficulty in persuading some of the men to accept, as they had not + brought any tidy clothes with them; and as the others would be decently, + indeed well dressed, they did not like putting in a shabby appearance. + This difficulty was obviated by F—— hunting up some of the + things he had worn on the voyage, and rigging-out the invited guests. For + two days before the great day I had been working hard, studying recipes + for pies and puddings, and scouring the country in search of delicacies. + Every lady was most kind, knowing that our poor, exposed garden was + backward; I had sacks of green peas, bushels of young potatoes, and + baskets of strawberries and cherries sent to me from all round the + country; I made poor F—— ride twenty miles to get me a sirloin + of beef, and, to my great joy, two beautiful young geese arrived as a + present only the day before. It is a point of honour to have as little + mutton as possible on these occasions, as the great treat is the complete + change of fare. I only ventured to introduce it very much disguised as + curry, or in pies. We were all up at daylight on Christmas morning, and + off to the nearest little copse in one of the gullies, where a few shrubs + and small trees and ferns grow, to gather boughs for the decoration of the + washhouse. Marvels were done in the carpentering line to arrange tables + around its walls. The copper, which at first presented such an obstacle to + the symmetry of the adornments, became their chief glory; it was boarded + over, its sides completely hidden by flags and ferns, and the dessert + placed on it peeped out from a bower of greenery. I don't know how we got + our own breakfast; from eleven o'clock there was the constant announcement + "A horseman coming up the flat;" and by twelve, when I as beadle announced + that all was ready, a large congregation of thirty-six came trooping into + my little drawing-room. As soon as it was filled the others clustered + round the door; but all could hear, I think. F—— began the + service; and as the notes of the Christmas Anthem swelled up, I found the + tears trembling in my eyes. My overwhelming thought was that it actually + was the very first time those words had ever been sung or said in that + valley—you in England can hardly realize the immensity of such a + thought—"the first time since the world was made." I think the next + sensation was one of extreme happiness; it seemed such a privilege to be + allowed to hold the initial Christmas service. I had to grasp this idea + very tight to keep down the terrible home-sickness which I felt all day + for almost the first time. There are moments when no advantages or + privileges can repress what Aytoun calls "the deep, unutterable woe which + none save exiles feel." + </p> + <p> + The service only lasted half an hour, beginning and ending with a hymn; + there were three women present besides me—my two servants, and the + nice young wife of a neighbouring shepherd. It was a sultry day, not a + breath of air; but still it is never oppressive at this elevation. We + wound up a big musical-box, set it going in the banqueting-hall (late + washhouse), and marshalled the guests in they were extremely shy as a + rule, and so we soon went away and left them to themselves. They ate + incessantly for two hours—and I hope they enjoyed themselves; then + the men lounged about the stables and smoked, and the three women cleared + away a little. F—— and our gentlemen guests got up athletic + sports in the shade which seemed very popular, though it appeared a great + deal of trouble to take on such a hot day. As the sun sank below the hills + it grew much cooler, and my two maids came with a shamefaced request to be + allowed to dance in the kitchen. I inquired about the music?—that + was provided for by a fiddle and some pipes; so I consented, but I found + they wanted me to start them. I selected as my partner a very decent young + farmer who lives near, but has left his farm and is at work branding our + sheep all shearing-time. The pride and delight of his mate was much + greater than my partner's; he stood near his friend, prompting him through + the mazes of the most extraordinary quadrille you ever saw, with two extra + figures. Then there was an endless polka, in which everybody danced, like + Queen Elizabeth, "high and disposedly;" but the ball ended at nine + o'clock, and we were given some cold dinner, for which we were all very + ready. The next morning saw the remains of the festivity cleared away, and + every one hard at work again; for this is our very busiest season. The + work of the station, however, is carried on at the homestead two miles + off. F—— is there all day long, but I see nothing of it. While + the shearers' hearts were tender, I asked them to come over to church on + Sunday, and they have promised to do so: I lend them quantities of books + and papers also, so as to keep them amused and away from the + accommodation-house. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XV: Everyday station life. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, January 1867. You tell me to describe our daily home-life and + domestic surroundings. I dare say it: will appear to be a monotonous and + insignificant existence enough when put on paper, but it suits me exactly; + and, for the first time in my life, I have enough to do, and also the + satisfaction of feeling that I am of some little use to my + fellow-creatures. A lady's influence out here appears to be very great, + and capable of indefinite expansion. She represents refinement and culture + (in Mr. Arnold's sense of the words), and her footsteps on a new soil such + as this should be marked by a trail of light. Of course every improvement + must be the work of time, but I find my neighbours very willing to help me + in my attempts. + </p> + <p> + A few lines will be sufficient to sketch a day's routine. The first of my + duties is one I especially delight in. I am out very early with a large + tin dish of scraps mixed with a few handfuls of wheat, and my appearance + is the signal for a great commotion among all my fowls and ducks and + pigeons. Such waddling and flying and running with outstretched wings to + me: in fact, I receive a morning greeting from all the live-stock about + the place. I am nearly knocked down by the big sheep-dogs; the calves come + rushing with awkward gambols towards me for a bit of the fowls' bread, + whilst the dogs look out for a bone; but, in the midst of the confusion, + the poultry hold their own; indeed, an anxious hen eager to secure a + breakfast for her chicks will fly at a big dog, and beat him away from a + savoury morsel. I think I ought not to omit mentioning the devotion of a + small pig; it is an exact illustration of the French proverb which speaks + of the inequality of love, for I am quite passive and do not respond in + the least to the little beastie's affection, which is the most absurd + thing you ever saw, especially as it proceeds from so unromantic an + animal. Late in the spring (that is to say, about November last) we were + all returning from a great pig-hunting expedition, when I saw one of the + party coming down a steep hill near the house with a small and + glossy-black wild pig under each arm; he was very proud of his captives, + placed them in a box with some straw, and fed them like babies out of a + bottle. We laughed at him very much; but when he went away he begged so + earnestly that the pigs should be reared that we promised to keep them. In + a few days they became perfectly tame, and were very handsome little + creatures; and one of them attached itself to me, following me all about, + even into the house (but <i>that</i> I really could not stand), + accompanying me in all my walks, and, as far as it could, in my rides. + Many a time have I seen poor little piggy carried down a creek by the + current, squealing piteously, but it was evidently a case of "many waters + cannot quench love," for a little further on piggy would appear, very much + baked, but holding out gallantly, till sheer exhaustion compelled him to + give in, when he would lie down under a tussock, apparently dying; but, as + we were coming home in the dusk, Helen, my pretty bay mare, has given many + a shy at piggy starting up from his shelter with gambols and squeals of + joy. + </p> + <p> + It is always a great temptation to loiter about in the lovely fresh + morning air, but I have to be dressed in time for prayers and breakfast at + nine; directly after breakfast I go into the kitchen; sometimes, it is + only necessary to give orders or instructions, but generally I find that + practice is much better than precept, and I see to the soup myself, and + make the pudding—the joint can take care of itself. + </p> + <p> + You have often asked me what we have to eat, so this will be a good + opportunity of introducing our daily bill of fare, prefacing it with my + recorded opinion that here is no place in the world where you can live so + cheaply and so well as on a New Zealand sheep station, when once you get a + start. Of course, it is expensive at first, setting everything going, but + that would be the case in any country. I will begin at the very beginning:—Porridge + for breakfast, with new milk and cream <i>a discretion</i>; to follow—mutton + chops, mutton ham, or mutton curry, or broiled mutton and mushrooms, not + shabby little fragments of meat broiled, but beautiful tender steaks off a + leg; tea or coffee, and bread and butter, with as many new-laid eggs as we + choose to consume. Then, for dinner, at half-past one, we have soup, a + joint, vegetables, and a pudding; in summer, we have fresh fruit stewed, + instead of a pudding, with whipped cream. I was a proud and happy woman + the first day my cream remained cream, and did not turn into butter; for + generally my zeal outran my discretion, and I did not know when to leave + off whipping. We have supper about seven; but this is a moveable feast, + consisting of tea again, mutton cooked in some form of entree, eggs, bread + and butter, and a cake of my manufacture. I must, however, acknowledge, + that at almost every other station you would get more dainties, such as + jam and preserves of all sorts, than we can boast of yet; for, as Littimer + says to David Copperfield, "We are very young, exceedingly young, sir," + our fruit-trees, have not come into full bearing, and our other resources + are still quite undeveloped. + </p> + <p> + However, I have wandered away terribly from my first intention of telling + you of the daily occupations to a description of our daily food. After I + have finished all my little fussings about the house, I join F—— + who has probably been for some time quietly settled down at his + writing-table, and we work together at books and writing till dinner; + after that meal, F—— like Mr. Tootes, "resumes his studies," + but I go and feed my fowls again, and if I am very idly disposed I sit on + a hencoop in the shade and watch the various tempers of my chickens and + ducklings. A little later F—— and I go out for some hours: if + it is not too hot, he takes his rifle and we go over the hills + pig-stalking, but this is really only suitable exercise for a fine + winter's day; at this time of year we either go for a walk or a ride, + generally the latter—not a little shabby canter, but a long + stretching gallop for miles and miles; perhaps stopping to have a cup of + tea with a neighbour twelve or fifteen miles off, and then coming slowly + home in the delicious gloaming, with the peculiar fresh crisp feeling + which the atmosphere always has here the moment the sun sets, no matter + how hot the day has been. I can hardly hope to make you understand how + enjoyable our twilight hours are, with no fear of damp or malaria to spoil + them; every turn of the track as we slowly wind up the valley showing us + some beautiful glimpse of distant mountain peaks, and, above all, such + sunset splendours, gradually fading away into the deep, pure beauty of a + summer night. + </p> + <p> + In one of our rides the other day, after crossing a low range of hills, we + suddenly dropped down on what would be called in England a hamlet, but + here it is designated by the extraordinary name of a "nest of cockatoos." + This expression puzzled me so much when I first heard it, that I must give + you as minute an explanation as I myself found necessary to the + comprehension of the subject. + </p> + <p> + When a shepherd has saved a hundred pounds, or the better class of + immigrant arrives with a little capital, the favourite investment is in + freehold land, which they can purchase, in sections of twenty acres and + upwards, at 2 pounds the acre. The next step is to build a sod but with + two rooms on their property, thatching it with Tohi, or swamp grass; a + door and a couple of window-frames all ready glazed are brought from + Christchurch in the dray with the family and the household goods. After + this rough and ready shelter is provided, the father and sons begin + fencing their land and gradually it all assumes a cultivated appearance. + Pig-sties and fowl-houses are added; a little garden, gay with common + English flowers, is made in front of the house, whose ugly walls are + gradually hidden by creepers, and the homestead looks both picturesque and + prosperous. These small farmers are called Cockatoos in Australia by the + squatters or sheep-farmers, who dislike them for buying up the best bits + of land on their runs; and say that, like a cockatoo, the small freeholder + alights on good ground, extracts all he can from it, and then flies away + to "fresh fields and pastures new." But the real fact is, that the poor + farmer perhaps finds his section is too far from a market, so he is forced + to abandon it and move nearer a town, where the best and most productive + land has been bought up already; and he has to begin again at a + disadvantage. However, whether the name is just or not, it is a recognized + one here; and I have heard a man say in answer to a question about his + usual occupation, "I'm a Cockatoo." + </p> + <p> + This particular "nest" appeared to me very well off, comparatively + speaking; for though the men complained sadly of the low price of their + wheat and oats, still there was nothing like poverty to be seen. Ready + money was doubtless scarce, and an extensive system of barter appeared to + prevail; but still they all looked well fed and well clothed; sickness was + unknown among them, and it did one's heart good to see the children—such + sturdy limbs, bright fearless eyes, and glowing faces. They have abundance + of excellent food. Each cottager has one or two cows, and the little ones + take these out to pasture on the hills, so they are in the open air nearly + all day: but their ignorance is appalling! Many of them had never even + been christened; there was no school or church within thirty miles or + more, and although the parents seemed all tidy, decent people, and + deplored the state of things, they were powerless to help it. The father + and elder sons work hard all day; the mother has to do everything, even to + making the candles, for the family; there is no time or possibility of + teaching the children. The neighbouring squatters do not like to encourage + settlers to buy up their land, therefore they carefully avoid making + things pleasant for a new "nest," and the Cockatoos are "nobody's + business;" so, as far as educational advantages go, they are perfectly + destitute. + </p> + <p> + When I mentioned my discovery of this hamlet, and my dismay at the state + of neglect in which so many fine intelligent-looking children were growing + up, every one warned me not to interfere, assuring me the Cockatoo was a + very independent bird, that he considered he had left all the Ladies + Bountiful and blanket and coal charities behind him in the old country; + that, in short, as it is generally put, "Jack is as good as his master" + out here, and any attempt at patronage would be deeply resented. But I + determined to try the effect of a little visiting among the cottages, and + was most agreeably surprised at the kind and cordial welcome I received. + The women liked to have some one to chat to about their domestic affairs, + and were most hospitable in offers of tea, etc., and everywhere + invitations to "come again" were given; so the next week I ventured to + invite the men over to our Sunday services. Those who were fond of reading + eagerly accepted the offer to join the book-club, and at last we started + the educational subject. Many plans were discussed, and finally we + arranged for one woman, who had received an excellent education and was + quite fitted for the post, to commence a day-school; but this entailed so + much loss of her valuable time that the terms she is obliged to ask seem + disproportionately high to the people's means. She wants 2 shillings and 6 + pence a week with each child, and this is terrible heavy on the head of a + family who is anxious and willing to give them some "schooling." However, + the plan is to be tried, and I have promised to start them with books, + slates, copybooks, etc. It was quite touching to hear their earnest + entreaties that F—— would come over on Sunday sometimes and + hold a service there, but I tried to show them this could not be managed. + The tears actually came into their eyes when I talked of the happiness it + would be to see a little church and school in their midst; and the almost + invariable remark was, "Ah, but it'll be a far day first." And so I fear + it will—a very far day; but I have often heard it said, that if you + propose one definite object to yourself as the serious purpose of your + life, you will accomplish it some day. Well, the purpose of my life + henceforward is to raise money somehow or somewhere to build a little + wooden school-room (licensed for service, to be held whenever a missionary + clergyman comes by), and to pay the salary of a schoolmaster and mistress, + so that the poor Cockatoo need not be charged more than threepence a week + for each child. The Board of Education will give a third of the sum + required, when two-thirds have been already raised; but it is difficult to + collect subscriptions, or indeed to induce the squatters to listen to any + plan for improving the condition of the small farmers, and every year + which slips away and leaves these swarms of children in ignorance adds to + the difficulty of training them. [Note: Since this was written, a + school-house, also used as a church, has been built in this district by + private subscription and Government aid. A clergyman, who lives some + twenty-five miles away, rides over and holds service once a month.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XVI: A sailing excursion on Lake Coleridge. + </h2> + <p> + Lake Coleridge, February 1867. A violent storm of wind and rain from the + south-west keeps us all indoors to-day, and gives me time to write my + letter for the Panama mail, which will be made up to-morrow. The + post-office is ten miles off, and rejoices in the appropriate name of + "Wind-whistle;" it stands at the mouth of a deep mountain gorge, and there + never was such a temple of the winds. + </p> + <p> + This bad weather comes after a long spell of lovely bright summer days, + and is very welcome to fill up the failing creeks in the lower ranges of + hills. I must tell you how much we have been enjoying our visit here. F—— + knows this part of the country well, but it is quite new to me, and a + great contrast to the other scenery I have described to you We had long + talked of paying Mr. C. H—— a visit at his bachelor cottage on + his station far back among the high ranges of hills, but no time was + fixed, so I was rather taken by surprise when last week he drove up to + Broomielaw in a light American waggon with a pair of stout horses, and + announced that he had come to take us to his place next day. There was no + reason against this plan, and we agreed at once; the next morning saw us + on the road, after an early breakfast. We had to drive about thirty-five + miles round, whereas it would have been only twenty miles riding across + the hills; but our kind host thought that it would be much more + comfortable for me to be able to take a carpet-bag in the carriage instead + of the usual system of saddle-bags one is obliged to adopt travelling on + horseback. We made our first stage at the ever-hospitable station of the C——'s, + on the Horarata, but we could not remain to luncheon, as they wished, + having to push on further; and, as it turned out, it was most fortunate we + took advantage of the first part of the day to get over the ground between + us and our destination, for the gentle breeze which had been blowing since + we started gradually freshened into a tremendous "nor'-wester," right in + our teeth all the rest of our way. The poor horses bent their heads as low + as possible and pulled bravely at their collars, up hill the whole time. + Among the mountains the wind rushed with redoubled fury down the narrow + gorges, and became icily cold as we neared the snowy ranges. It was + impossible to see the hills for the thick mist, though I knew we must have + a magnificent view before us. We took refuge for an hour just to rest the + horses, at Windwhistle, and I certainly expected the house to come down + whilst we were there. I can hardly tell you anything of the rest of the + drive, for I was really frightened at my first experience of a "howling + nor'-wester" out of doors, and Mr. H—— made me sit down at the + bottom of the carriage and heaped over me all the cloaks and shawls we had + brought. It was delightful to find ourselves under shelter at last in a + pretty bright snug room, with lots of books and arm-chairs, and a blazing + fire; <i>this</i>, you must remember, in midsummer. + </p> + <p> + The next morning was perfectly calm, and the lake as serene as if no storm + had been dashing its water in huge breakers against the beach only a few + hours before. The view from the sitting-room was lovely: just beneath the + window there was a little lawn, as green as possible from the spray with + which the lake had washed it yesterday; beyond this a low hedge, an open + meadow, a fringe of white pebbly beach, and then a wide expanse of water + within one little wooded island, and shut in gradually from our view by + spurs of hills running down to the shore, sometimes in bold steep cliffs, + and again in gentle declivities, with little strips of bush or scrub + growing in the steep gullies between them. The lake extends some way + beyond where we lose sight of it, being twelve miles long and four miles + broad. A few yards from the beach it is over six hundred feet deep. + Nothing but a painting could give you any idea of the blue of sky and + water that morning; the violent wind of yesterday seemed to have blown + every cloud below the horizon, for I could not see the least white film + anywhere. Behind the lower hills which surround the lake rises a splendid + snowy range; altogether, you cannot imagine a more enchanting prospect + than the one I stood and looked at; it made me think of Miss Procter's + lines— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "My eyes grow dim, + As still I gaze and gaze + Upon that mountain pass, + That leads—or so it seems— To some far happy land + Known in a world of dreams." +</pre> + <p> + All this time, whilst I was looking out of the window in most unusual + idleness, Mr. H—— and F—— were making constant + journeys between the boat-house and the store-room, and at last I was + entreated to go and put on my hat. While doing this I heard cupboards + being opened, and a great bustle; so when I reached the shore I was not so + much surprised as they expected, to see in the pretty little sailing-boat + (which was moored to a primitive sort of jetty made out of a broken old + punt) the materials for at least two substantial meals, in case of being + kept out by a sudden head-wind. I was especially glad to notice a little + kettle among the <i>impedimenta</i>, and there were cloaks and wraps of + all kinds to provide against the worst. Four gentlemen and I made up the + crew and passengers, and a very merry set we were, behaving extremely like + children out for a holiday. The wind was a trifle light for sailing, so + the gentlemen pulled, but very lazily and not at all in good "form," as + the object of each oarsman seemed to be to do as little work as possible. + However, we got on somehow, a light puff helping us now and then, but our + progress was hardly perceptible. I had been for a long time gazing down + into the clear blue depth of water, every now and then seeing a flash of + the white sand shining at the bottom, when I was half startled by our host + standing suddenly up in the bow of the boat; and then I found that we were + a couple of miles away from our starting-point, and that we had turned a + corner formed by a steep spur, and were running right into what appeared a + grove of rata-trees growing at the water's edge. The rata only grows in + the hills and near water; it is a species of broad-leaf myrtle, with a + flower exactly like a myrtle in character, but of a brilliant deep scarlet + colour, and twice as large. + </p> + <p> + When the bowsprit touched the rata-branches, which drooped like a curtain + into the water, Mr. H—— made a signal to lower the mast, and + parting the thick, blossom-covered foliage before us, with both hands, the + way the boat had on her sent us gently through the screen of scarlet + flowers and glossy green leaves into such a lovely fairy cove! Before us + was a little white beach of fine sparkling sand, against which the water + broke in tiny wavelets, and all around a perfect bower of every variety of + fern and moss, kept green by streams no thicker than a silver thread + trickling down here and there with a subdued tinkling sound. We all sat + quite silent, the boat kept back just inside the entrance by the steersman + holding on to a branch. It was a sudden contrast from the sparkling + sunshine and brightness outside, all life and colour and warmth, to the + tender, green, profound shade and quiet in this "Mossy Hum," as the people + about here call it. Do not fancy anything damp or chilly. No; it was like + a natural temple—perfect repose and refreshment to the eyes dazzled + with the brilliant outside colouring. Centuries ago there must have been a + great landslip here, for the side of the mountain is quite hollowed out, + and Nature has gradually covered the ugly brown rent with the thickest + tapestry of her most delicate handiwork. I noticed two varieties of the + maiden-hair, its slender black stem making the most exquisite tracery + among the vivid greens. There was no tint of colour except green when once + we passed the red-fringed curtain of rata-branches, only the white and + shining fairy beach and the gleaming threads of water. As we sat there, + perfectly still, and entranced, a sort of delicious mesmeric feeling stole + over me; I thought of the lotus-eater's chant, "There is no joy but calm," + with, for, the first time in my life, a dim perception of what they meant, + perhaps; but it was over all too quickly: prosaic words of direction to + back water called us from shade to light, and in a moment more we were in + front of the rata-trees, admiring their splendid colouring, and our little + boat was dancing away over the bright waves, with her white wings set and + her bows pointed towards the little toy island in the middle of the lake; + it was no question now of rowing, a nice fresh breeze from the south (the + <i>cold</i> point here) sent us swiftly and steadily through the water. + What a morning it was! The air was positively intoxicating, making you + feel that the mere fact of being a living creature with lungs to inhale + such an atmosphere was a great boon. We have a good deal of disagreeable + weather, and a small proportion of bad weather, but in no other part of + the world, I believe, does Nature so thoroughly understand how to make a + fine day as in New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + A little after mid-day we ran our boat to the lee of the island, and: + whilst she was steadied by the same primitive method of holding on to + branches of manuka and other scrub, I scrambled out and up a little cliff, + where a goat could hardly have found footing, till I reached a spot big + enough to stand on, from whence I anxiously watched the disembarkation of + some of the provisions, and of the gridiron and kettle. In a few moments + we were all safely ashore, and busy collecting dry fern and brushwood for + a fire; it was rather a trial of patience to wait till the great blaze had + subsided before we attempted to cook our chops, which were all neatly + prepared ready for us. Some large potatoes were put to bake in the ashes; + the tin plates were warmed (it is a great art not to overheat them when + you have to keep them on your lap whilst you eat your chop). We were all + so terribly hungry that we were obliged to have a course of bread and + cheese and sardines <i>first</i>; it was really quite impossible to wait + patiently for the chops. The officiating cook scolded us well for our + Vandalism, and the next moment we detected him in the act of devouring a + half-raw potato. The fragments of our meal must have been a great boon to + the colony of wekas who inhabit the island, for as they increase and + multiply prodigiously their provisions must often fall short in so small a + space. No one can imagine how these birds originally came here, for the + island is at least two miles from the nearest point of land; they can + neither swim nor fly; and as every man's hand is against them, no one + would have thought it worth while to bring them over: but here they are, + in spite of all the apparent impossibilities attending their arrival, more + tame and impudent than ever. It was dangerous to leave your bread + unwatched for an instant, and indeed I saw one gliding off with an empty + sardine tin in its beak; I wonder how it liked oil and little scales. They + considered a cork a great prize, and carried several off triumphantly. + </p> + <p> + After luncheon there was the usual interval of rest, and pipes on the part + of the gentlemen. I explored a little, but there is nothing very pretty or + abundant in the way of wild flowers in the parts of New Zealand which I + have seen. White violets and a ground clematis are the only ones I have + come across in any quantity. The manuka, a sort of scrub, has a pretty + blossom like a diminutive Michaelmas daisy, white petals and a brown + centre, with a very aromatic odour; and this little flower is succeeded by + a berry with the same strong smell and taste of spice. The shepherds + sometimes make an infusion of these when they are very hard-up for tea; + but it must be like drinking a decoction of cloves. + </p> + <p> + About three o'clock we re-embarked, and sailed a little higher up the lake + beyond the point where we lose sight of it from Mr. H——'s + house, every moment opening out fresh and more beautiful glimpses. Quite + the opposite end of the shore is fringed with a thick deep forest, and + another station has been built there, at which, I am told, the scenery is + still more magnificent. At first I was inclined to wonder where the sheep + live amid all this picturesque but mountainous country: however, I find + that between and among these hills stretch immense valleys (or "flats," as + they are called here), which are warm and sheltered in winter, and afford + plenty of food for them; then, in summer, they go up to the mountains: but + it is very difficult to "muster" these ranges. I am almost ashamed to + confess to another meal before we returned home, but there was a lovely + tempting spot in a little harbour, and so we landed and boiled some water + and had a capital cup of tea. You require to be out as we were from + morning till night in such an air as this to know what it is to feel + either hungry or sleepy in perfection! The next day we made a similar + excursion, exploring the opposite shore of the lake; but, before we + started, our host distrusted the appearance of certain clouds, and sent + round horses to meet us at the point where we were going to lunch; and it + was just as well he did so, for a stiff breeze sprang up from the + south-west, which would have kept us out all night. So we mounted the + horses instead of re-embarking, having first secured the boat, and + cantered home. We passed several smaller lakes; there is a perfect chain + of them among these hills, and I was much amused at the names bestowed on + them, according to the tastes or caprice of the station-owners whose runs + happen to include them: for instance, two are called respectively + "Geraldine" and "Ida," whilst three, which lie close together, rejoice in + the somewhat extraordinary names of "the World," "the Flesh," and "the + Devil." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XVII: My first and last experience of "camping out." + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, April 1867. I have nothing to tell you this mail, except of a + rather ridiculous expedition which we made last week, and which involved + our spending the whole night on the top of the highest hill on our run. + You will probably wonder what put such an idea into our heads, so I must + preface my account by a little explanation. Whenever I meet any people who + came here in the very early days of the colony—only sixteen years + ago, after all!—I delight in persuading them to tell me about their + adventures and hardships during those primitive times, and these + narratives have the greatest fascination for me, as they always end + happily. No one ever seems to have died of his miseries, or even to have + suffered seriously in any way from them, so I find the greatest delight in + listening to the stories of the Pilgrims. I envy them dreadfully for + having gone through so much with such spirit and cheerfulness, and ever + since I came here I have regretted that the rapid advance of civilization + in New Zealand precludes the possibility of being really uncomfortable; + this makes me feel like an impostor, for I am convinced that my English + friends think of me with the deepest pity, as of one cut off from the + refinements and comforts of life, whereas I really am surrounded by every + necessary, and many of its luxuries, and there is no reason but that of + expense why one should not have all of these. + </p> + <p> + One class of narratives is peculiarly attractive to me. I like to hear of + benighted or belated travellers when they have had to "camp out," as it is + technically called; and have lived in constant hope of meeting with an + adventure which would give me a similar experience. But I am gradually + becoming convinced that this is almost impossible by fair means, so I have + been trying for some time past to excite in the breasts of our home party + and of our nearest neighbours an ardent desire to see the sun rise from + the top of "Flagpole," a hill 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, and + only a: couple of miles from the house. As soon as they were sufficiently + enthusiastic on the subject, I broached my favourite project of our all + going up there over-night, and camping out on the highest peak. Strange to + say, the plan did not meet with any opposition, even from F——, + who has had to camp out many a winter's night, and with whom, therefore, + the novelty may be said to have worn off. Two gentlemen of the proposed + party were "new chums" like myself, and were strongly in favour of a + little roughing; new-chums always are, I observe. F—— + hesitated a little about giving a final consent on the score of its being + rather too late in the year, and talked of a postponement till next + summer, but we would not listen to such an idea; so he ended by entering + so heartily into it, that when at last the happy day and hour came, an + untoward shower had not the least effect in discouraging him. + </p> + <p> + There was a great bustle about the little homestead on that eventful + Tuesday afternoon. Two very steady old horses were saddled, one for me and + the other for one of the "new chums," who was not supposed to be in good + form for a long walk, owing to a weak knee. Everything which we thought we + could possibly want was heaped on and around us after we had mounted; the + rest of the gentlemen, four in number, walked, and we reached the first + stage of our expedition in about an hour. Here we dismounted, as the + horses could go no further in safety. The first thing done was to see to + their comfort and security; the saddles were carefully deposited under a + large flax-bush in case of rain, and the long tether ropes were arranged + so as to ensure plenty of good feed and water for both horses, without the + possibility of the ropes becoming entangled in each other or in anything + else. Then came a time of great excitement and laughing and talking, for + all the "swags" had to be packed and apportioned for the very long and + steep ascent before us. + </p> + <p> + And now I must tell you exactly what we took up. A pair of large double + blankets to make the tent of,—that was one swag, and a very unwieldy + one it was, strapped knapsack fashion, with straps of flax-leaves, on the + back, and the bearer's coat and waistcoat fastened on the top of the + whole. The next load consisted of one small single blanket for my sole + use, inside of which was packed a cold leg of lamb. I carried the luncheon + basket, also strapped on my shoulders, filled with two large bottles of + cream, some tea and sugar, and, I think, teaspoons. It looked a very + insignificant load by the side of the others, but I assure you I found it + frightfully heavy long before I had gone half-way up the hill. The rest + distributed among them a couple of large heavy axes, a small coil of rope, + some bread, a cake, tin plates and pannikins, knives and forks, and a fine + pigeon-pie. Concerning this pie there were two abominable propositions; + one was to leave it behind, and the other was to eat it then and there: + both of these suggestions were, however, indignantly rejected. I must not + forget to say we included in the commissariat department two bottles of + whisky, and a tiny bottle of essence of lemon, for the manufacture of + toddy. We never see a real lemon, except two or three times a year when a + ship arrives from the Fiji islands, and then they are sixpence or a + shilling apiece. All these things were divided into two large heavy + "swags," and to poor F—— was assigned the heaviest and most + difficult load of all—the water. He must have suffered great anxiety + all the way, for if any accident had happened to his load, he would have + had to go back again to refill his big kettle; this he carried in his + hand, whilst a large tin vessel with a screw lid over its mouth was + strapped on his back also full of water, but he was particularly charged + not to let a drop escape from the spout of the kettle; and I may mention + here, that though he took a long time about it, for he could not go as + straight up the hill as we did, he reached the top with the kettle full to + the brim—the other vessel was of course quite safe. All these + packings and repackings, and the comfortable adjustment of the "swags," + occupied a long time, so it was past five when we began our climb, and + half-past six when we reached the top of the hill, and getting so rapidly + dark that we had to hurry our preparations for the night, though we were + all so breathless that a "spell" (do you know that means <i>rest</i>?) + would have been most acceptable. The ascent was very steep, and there were + no sheep-tracks to guide us; our way lay through thick high flax-bushes, + and we never could have got on without their help. I started with a stick, + but soon threw it aside and pulled myself up by the flax, hand over hand. + Of course I had to stop every now and then to rest, and once I chose the + same flax-bush where three young wild pigs had retired for the night, + having first made themselves the most beautiful bed of tussock grass + bitten into short lengths; the tussocks are very much scattered here, so + it must have been an afternoon's work for them; but the shepherds say + these wild pigs make themselves a fresh bed every night. + </p> + <p> + The first thing to be done was to pitch the tent on the little flat at the + very top of the hill: it was a very primitive affair; two of the thinnest + and longest pieces of totara, with which Flagpole is strewed, we used for + poles, fastening another piece lengthwise to these upright sticks as a + roof-tree: this frame was then covered with the large double blanket, + whose ends were kept down on the ground by a row of the heaviest stones to + be found. The rope we had brought up served to tie the poles together at + the top, and to fasten the blanket on them; but as soon as the tent had + reached this stage, it was discovered that the wind blew through it from + end to end, and that it afforded very little protection. We also found it + much colder at the top of this hill than in our valley; so under these + circumstances it became necessary to appropriate my solitary blanket to + block up one end of the tent and make it more comfortable for the whole + party. It was very little shelter before this was done. The next step was + to collect wood for a fire, which was not difficult, for at some distant + time the whole of the hill must have been covered by a forest of totara + trees; it has apparently been destroyed by fire, for the huge trunks and + branches which still strew the steep sides are charred and half burnt. It + is a beautiful wood, with a strong aromatic odour, and blazed and crackled + splendidly in the clear, cool evening air, as we piled up a huge bonfire, + and put the kettle on to boil. It was quite dusk by this time, so the + gentlemen worked hard at collecting a great supply of wood, as the night + promised to be a very cold one, whilst I remained to watch the kettle, + full of that precious liquid poor F—— had carried up with such + care, and to prevent the wekas from carrying off our supper, which I had + arranged just inside the tent. In this latter task I was nobly assisted by + my little black terrier Dick, of whose sad fate I must tell you later. + </p> + <p> + By eight o'clock a noble pile of firewood had been collected, and we were + very tired and hungry; so we all crept inside the tent, which did not + afford very spacious accommodation, and began our supper. At this point of + the entertainment everybody voted it a great success; although the wind + was slowly rising and blowing from a cold point, and our blanket-tent did + not afford the perfect warmth and shelter we had fondly credited it with. + The gentlemen began to button up their coats. I had only a light serge + jacket on, so I coaxed Dick to sit at my back and keep it warm; for, + whilst our faces were roasted by the huge beacon-fire, there was a keen + and icy draught behind us. The hot tea was a great comfort, and we enjoyed + it thoroughly, and after it was over the gentlemen lit their pipes, and I + told them a story: presently we had glees, but by ten o'clock there was no + concealing the fact that we were all very sleepy indeed; however, we still + loudly declared that camping out was the most delightful experiment. F—— + and another gentleman (that kind and most good-natured Mr. U——, + who lives with us) went outside the tent, armed with knives, and cut all + the tussocks they could feel in the darkness, to make me a bed after the + fashion of the pigs; they brought in several armfuls, and the warmest + corner in the tent was heaped with them; I had my luncheon-basket for a + pillow, and announced that I had turned in and was very comfortable, and + that camping out was charming; the gentlemen were still cheery, though + sleepy; and the last thing I remember was seeing preparations being made + for what a Frenchman of my acquaintance always will call a "grogs." When I + awoke, I thought I must have slept several hours. Though the fire was + blazing grandly, the cold was intense: I was so stiff I could hardly move; + all my limbs ached dreadfully, and my sensations altogether were new and + very disagreeable. I sat up with great difficulty and many groans, and + looked round: two figures were coiled up, like huge dogs, near me; two + more, moody and sulky, were smoking by the fire; with their knees drawn up + to their noses and their hands in their pockets, collars well up round + their throats—statues of cold and disgust. To my inquiries about the + hour, the answer, given in tones of the deepest despondency, was "Only + eleven o'clock, and the sun doesn't rise till six, and its going to be the + coldest night we've had this year." The speaker added, "If it wasn't so + dark that we'd break our necks on the way, we might go home." + </p> + <p> + Here was a pretty end to our amusement. I slowly let myself down again, + and tried to go to sleep, but that relief was at an end for the night; the + ground seemed to grow harder every moment, or, at all events, I ached + more, and the wind certainly blew higher and keener. Dick proved himself a + most selfish doggie; he would creep round to leeward of <i>me</i>, whilst + I wanted him to let me get leeward of him, but he would not consent to + this arrangement. Whenever I heard a deeper moan or sigh than usual, I + whispered an inquiry as to the hour, but the usual reply, in the most + cynical voice, was, "Oh, you need not whisper, nobody is asleep." I heard + one plaintive murmur "Think of all our warm beds, and of our coming up + here from choice." I must say I felt dreadfully ashamed of myself for my + plan; it was impossible to express my contrition and remorse, for, always + excepting Mr. U——, they were all too cross to be spoken to. It + certainly was a weary, long night. About one o'clock I pretended to want + some hot tea, and the preparation for that got through half an hour, and + it warmed us a little; but everybody still was deeply dejected, not to say + morose. After an interval of only two hours more of thorough and intense + wretchedness we had a "grogs," but there was no attempt at conviviality—subdued + savageness was the prevailing state of mind. I tried to infuse a little + hope into the party, by suggestions of a speedy termination to our misery, + but my own private opinion was that we should all be laid up for weeks to + come with illness. I allotted to myself in this imaginary distribution of + ills a severe rheumatic fever; oh! how I ached, and I felt as if I never + could be warm again. The fire was no use; except to afford occupation in + putting on wood; it roasted a little bit of you at a time, and that bit + suffered doubly from the cold when it was obliged to take its share of + exposure to the wind. I cannot say whether the proverb is true of other + nights, but this particular night, certainly, was both darkest and coldest + just before dawn. + </p> + <p> + At last, to our deep joy, and after many false alarms, we really all + agreed that there was a faint streak of grey in the east. My first impulse + was to set off home, and I believe I tried to get up expressing some such + intention, but F—— recalled me to myself by saying, in great + surprise, "Are you not going to stop and see the sun rise?" I had quite + forgotten that this was the avowed object of the expedition, but I was far + too stiff to walk a yard, so I was obliged to wait to see what effect the + sunrise would have on my frozen limbs, for I could not think of any higher + motive. Presently some one called out "There's the sea," and so it was, as + distinct as though it were not fifty miles off; none of us had seen it + since we landed; to all of us it is associated with the idea of going home + some day: whilst we were feasting our eyes on it a golden line seemed + drawn on its horizon; it spread and spread, and as all the water became + flooded with a light and glory which hardly seemed to belong to this + world, the blessed sun came up to restore us all to life and warmth again. + In a moment, in less than a moment, all our little privations and + sufferings vanished as if they had never existed, or existed only to be + laughed at. Who could think of their "Ego" in such a glorious presence, + and with such a panorama before them? I did not know which side to turn to + first. Behind me rose a giant forest in the far hills to the west—a + deep shadow for miles, till the dark outline of the pines stood out + against the dazzling snow of the mountains behind it; here the sky was + still sheltering the flying night, and the white outlines looked ghostly + against the dull neutral tints, though every peak was sharply and clearly + defined; then I turned round to see before me such a glow of light and + beauty! For an immense distance I could see the vast Canterbury plains; to + the left the Waimakiriri river, flowing in many streams, "like a tangled + bunch of silver ribbons" (as Mr. Butler calls it in his charming book on + New Zealand), down to the sea; beyond its banks the sun shone on the + windows of the houses at Oxford, thirty miles off as the crow would fly, + and threw its dense bush into strong relief against the yellow plains. The + Port Hills took the most lovely lights and shadows as we gazed on them; + beyond them lay the hills of Akaroa, beautiful beyond the power of words + to describe. Christchurch looked quite a large place from the great extent + of ground it appeared to cover. We looked onto the south: there was a + slight haze over the great Ellesmere Lake, the water of which is quite + fresh, though only separated from the sea by a slight bar of sand; the + high banks of the Rakaia made a deep dark line extending right back into + the mountains, and beyond it we could see the Rangitata faintly gleaming + in the distance; between us and the coast were green patches and tiny + homesteads, but still few and far between; close under our feet, and + looking like a thread beneath the shadow of the mountain, ran the Selwyn + in a narrow gorge, and on its bank stood the shepherd's hut that I have + told you once afforded us such a good luncheon; it looked a mere toy, as + if it came out of a child's box of playthings, and yet so snug for all its + lonely position. On the other hand lay our own little home, with the faint + wreath of smoke stealing up through the calm air (for the wind had dropped + at sunrise). Here and there we saw strings of sheep going down from their + high camping-grounds to feed on the sunny slopes and in the warm valleys. + Every moment added to our delight and enjoyment; but unfortunately it was + a sort of happiness which one can neither speak of at the time, nor write + about afterwards: silence is its most expressive language. Whilst I was + drinking in all the glory and beauty before me, some of the others had + been busy striking the tent, repacking the loads, very much lighter + without the provisions; and we had one more excellent cup of tea before + abandoning the encampment to the wekas, who must have breakfasted + splendidly that morning. Our last act was to collect all the stones we + could move into a huge cairn, which was built round a tall pole of totara; + on the summit of this we tied securely, with flax, the largest and + strongest pocket-handkerchief, and then, after one look round to the west—now + as glowing and bright as the radiant east—we set off homewards about + seven o'clock; but it was long before we reached the place where we left + the horses, for the gentlemen began rolling huge rocks down the sides of + the hills and watching them crashing and thundering into the valleys, + sometimes striking another rock and then bounding high into the air. They + were all as eager and excited as schoolboys, and I could not go on and + leave them, lest I should get below them and be crushed under a small + stone of twenty tons or so. I was therefore forced to keep well <i>above</i> + them all the time. At last we reached the spur where the horses were + tethered, re-saddled and loaded them, and arrived quite safely at home, + just in time for baths and breakfast. I was amused to see that no one + seemed to remember or allude to the miseries and aches of that long cold + night; all were full of professions of enjoyment. But I noticed that the + day was unusually quiet; the gentlemen preferred a bask in the verandah to + any other amusement, and I have reason to believe they indulged in a good + many naps. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XVIII: A journey "down south." + </h2> + <p> + Waimate, May 1867. In one of my early letters from Heathstock I told you + that the Hurunui, which is the boundary of that run, marks the extreme + north of the Province of Canterbury; and now I am writing to you from the + extreme south. I hope you do not forget to reverse in your own mind the + ordinary ideas of heat and cold, as connected with those points of the + compass. The distance from our house to this is about 160 miles, and we + actually took two days and a half to get here!—besides, into these + miles was compressed the fatigue of a dozen English railway journeys of + the same length. But, I suppose, as usual, you will not be satisfied + unless I begin at the very beginning. The first difficulty was to reach + the point where we were to join the coach on the Great South Road. It was + less than thirty miles, so we could easily have ridden the distance; but + the difficulty was to get our clothes all that way. They could not be + carried on horseback, and just then the station-dray was particularly + employed; besides which it would have taken three days to come and go,—rather + a useless expenditure of the man's time, as well as of the horses' legs, + where only two little portmanteaus were concerned. Fortunately for us, + however, this is a country where each man is ready and willing to help his + neighbour, without any inquiry as to who he is; so the moment our dilemma + was known various plans were suggested for our assistance, of which this + was the one selected:— + </p> + <p> + On a certain bright but cold Wednesday afternoon, F—— and I + and our modest luggage started in a neighbour's "trap" for the station I + have already mentioned on the Horarata, where Mr. C. H—— and I + stopped on our way to Lake Coleridge. It is on the plains at the foot of a + low range of downs, and about twelve miles from us. You cannot imagine a + more charming little cottage <i>ornee</i> than the house is, capable of + holding, apparently, an indefinite number of people, and with owners whose + hospitality always prompts them to try its capabilities to the utmost. A + creek runs near the house, and on its banks, sloping to the sun, lies a + lovely garden, as trim as any English parterre, and a mass of fruit and + flowers. Nothing can be more picturesque than the mixture of both. For + instance, on the wall of the house is a peach-tree laden every autumn with + rosy, velvet-cheeked fruit; and jasmine and passion-flowers growing + luxuriantly near it. Inside all is bright neatness and such a welcome! As + for our supper, on this particular day it comprised every dainty you can + imagine, and made me think of my housekeeping with shame and confusion of + face. We had a very merry evening, with round games; but there was a + strong prejudice in favour of going to bed early, as we all had to be up + by three o'clock: and so we were, to find a delicious breakfast prepared + for us, which our kind hostess was quite disappointed to see we could not + eat much of. Coffee and toast was all I could manage at that hour. We + started in the dark, and the first thing we had to cross was a dry + river-bed, in which one of the horses lay deliberately down, and refused + to move. This eccentricity delayed us very much; but we got him into a + better frame of mind, and accomplished our early drive of sixteen miles in + safety, reaching the accommodation-house, or inn, where the coach from + Christchurch to Timaru changes horses for its first stage, by six o'clock. + There we had a good breakfast, and were in great "form" by the time the + coach was ready to start. These conveyances have a world-wide celebrity as + "Cobb's coaches," both in America and Australia, where they are invariably + the pioneers of all wheeled vehicles, being better adapted to travel on a + bad road, or no road at all, than any other four-wheeled "trap." They are + both strong and light, with leathern springs and a powerful break; but I + cannot conscientiously say they are at all handsome carriages; indeed I + think them extremely ugly and not very comfortable except on the box-seat + next the driver. Fortunately, this is made to hold three, so F—— + and I scrambled up, and off we started with four good strong horses, + bearing less harness about them than any quadrupeds I ever saw; a small + collar, slender traces, and very thin reins comprised all their + accoutrements. The first half of the journey was slow, but there was no + jolting. The road was level, though it had not been made at all, only the + tussocks removed from it; but it was naturally good—a great + exception to New Zealand roads. The driver was a steady, respectable man, + very intelligent; and when F——could make him talk of his + experiences in Australia in the early coaching days, I was much + interested. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the Rakaia and the Rangitata in ferry-boats, and stopped on the + banks of the Ashburton, to dine about one o'clock, having changed horses + twice since we started from "Gigg's," as our place of junction was + elegantly called. Here all my troubles began. When we came out of the + little inn, much comforted and refreshed by a good dinner, I found to my + regret that we were to change drivers as well as horses, and that a very + popular and well known individual was to be the new coachman. As our + former driver very politely assisted me to clamber up on the box-seat, he + recommended F—— to sit on the outside part of the seat, and to + put me next the driver, "where," he added, "the lady won't be so likely to + tumble out." As I had shown no disposition to fall off the coach hitherto, + I was much astonished by this precaution, but said nothing. So he was + emboldened to whisper, after looking round furtively, "And you jest take + and don't be afraid, marm; <i>he</i> handles the ribbings jest as well + when he's had a drop too much as when he's sober, which ain't often, + however." This last caution alarmed me extremely. The horses were not yet + put in, nor the driver put <i>up</i>, so I begged F—— to get + down and see if I could not go inside. But, after a hasty survey, he, said + it was quite impossible: men smoking, children crying, and, in addition, a + policeman with a lunatic in his charge, made the inside worse than the + outside, especially in point of atmosphere; so he repeated the substance + of our ex-driver's farewell speech; and when I saw our new charioteer + emerge at last from the bar, looking only very jovial and tolerably steady + as to gait, I thought perhaps my panic was premature. But, oh, what a time + I had of it for nine hours afterwards! The moment the grooms let go the + horses' heads he stood up on his seat, shook the reins, flourished his + long whip, and with one wild yell from him we dashed down a steep cutting + into the Ashburton. The water flew in spray far over our heads, and the + plunge wetted me as effectually as if I had fallen into the river. I + expected the front part of the coach to part from the back, on account of + the enormous strain caused by dragging it over the boulders. We lurched + like a boat in a heavy sea; the "insides" screamed; "Jim" (that was the + driver's name) swore and yelled; the horses reared and plunged. All this + time I was holding on like grim death to a light iron railing above my + head, and one glance to my left showed me F—— thrown off the + very small portion of cushion which fell to his share, and clinging + desperately to a rude sort of lamp-frame. I speculated for an instant + whether this would break; and, if so, what would become of him. But it + took all my ideas to keep myself from being jerked off among the horses' + heels. We dashed through the river; Jim gathered up the reins, and with a + different set of oaths swore he would punish the horses for jibbing in the + water. And he did punish them; he put the break hard down for some way, + flogged them with all his strength, dancing about the coach-box and + yelling like a madman. Every now and then, in the course of his bounds + from place to place, he would come plump down on my lap; but I was too + much frightened to remonstrate; indeed, we were going at such a pace + against the wind, I had very little breath to spare. + </p> + <p> + We got over the first stage of twenty miles at this rate very quickly, as + you may imagine; but, unfortunately, there was an accommodation-house + close to the stables, and Jim had a good deal more refreshment. Strange to + say, this did not make him any wilder in manner—that he could not + be; but after we started again he became extremely friendly with me, + addressing me invariably as "my dear," and offering to "treat me" at every + inn from that to Timaru. I declined, as briefly as I could, whereupon he + became extremely angry, at my doubting his pecuniary resources apparently, + for, holding the reins carelessly with one hand, though we were still + tearing recklessly along, he searched his pockets with the other hand, and + produced from them a quantity of greasy, dirty one-pound notes, all of + which he laid on my lap, saying, "There, and there, and there, if you + think I'm a beggar!" I fully expected them to blow away, for I could not + spare a hand to hold them; but I watched my opportunity when he was + punishing the unfortunate fresh team, and pounced on them, thrusting the + dirty heap back into his great-coat pocket. At the next stage a very tidy + woman came out, with a rather large bundle, containing fresh linen, she + said, for her son, who was ill in the hospital at Timaru. She booked this, + and paid her half-crown for its carriage, entreating the drunken wretch to + see that it reached her son that night. He wildly promised he should have + it in half-an-hour, and we set off as if he meant to keep his word, though + we were some forty miles off yet; but he soon changed his mind, and took a + hatred to the parcel, saying it would "sink the ship," and finally tried + to kick it over the splash-board. I seized it at the risk of losing my + balance, and hugged it tight all the way to Timaru, carrying it off to the + hotel, where I induced a waiter to take it up to the hospital. + </p> + <p> + After we had changed horses for the last time, and I was comforting myself + by the reflection that the journey was nearly over, we heard shouts and + screams from the inside passengers. F—— persuaded Jim with + much trouble to pull up, and jumped down to see what was the matter. A + strong smell of burning and a good deal of smoke arose from inside the + coach, caused by the lunatic having taken off both his boots and lighted a + fire in them. It was getting dark and chilly; the other passengers, + including the policeman, had dozed off and the madman thought that as his + feet were very cold, he would "try and warm them a bit;" so he collected + all the newspapers with which his fellow-travellers had been solacing the + tedium of their journey, tore, them up into shreds, with the addition of + the contents of a poor woman's bundle, and made quite a cheerful blaze out + of these materials. It was some time before the terrified women could be + induced to get into the coach again; and it was only by Jims + asseverations, couched in the strongest language, that if they were not + "all aboard" in half a minute, he would drive on and leave them in the + middle of the plains, that they were persuaded to clamber in to their + places once more. + </p> + <p> + How thankful I was when we saw the lights of Timaru! I was stunned and + bewildered, tired beyond the power of words to describe, and black and + blue all over from being jolted about. The road had been an excellent one, + all the way level and wide, with telegraph-poles by its side. We shaved + these very closely often enough, but certainly, amid all his tipsiness, + Jim bore out his predecessors remark. Whenever we came to a little dip in + the road, or a sharp turn, as we were nearing Timaru, he would get the + horses under control as if by magic, and take us over as safely as the + soberest driver could have done; the moment the obstacle was passed, off + we were again like a whirlwind! + </p> + <p> + I was not at all surprised to hear that upsets and accidents were common + on the road, and that the horses lasted but a very short time. + </p> + <p> + We found our host had driven in from his station forty-five miles distant + from Timaru, to meet us, and had ordered nice rooms and a good dinner; so + the next morning I was quite rested, and ready to laugh over my miseries + of the day before. Nothing could be a greater contrast than this day's + journeying to yesterday's. A low, comfortable phaeton, and one of the most + agreeable companions in the world to drive us, beautiful scenery and a + nice luncheon half-way, at which meal F—— ate something like + half a hundred cheese-cakes! The last part of the road for a dozen miles + or so was rather rough; we had to cross a little river, the Waio, every + few hundred yards; and a New Zealand river has so much shingle about it! + The water can never quite make up its mind where it would like to go, and + has half-a-dozen channels ready to choose from, and then in a heavy fresh + the chances are it will select and make quite a different course after + all. + </p> + <p> + This is late autumn with us, remember, so the evenings close in early and, + are very cold indeed. It was quite dark when we reached the house, and the + blazing fires in every room were most welcome. The house is very unlike + the conventional station pattern, being built of stone, large, very well + arranged, and the perfection of comfort inside. There is no hostess at + present; three bachelor brothers do the honours, and, as far as my + experience goes, do them most efficiently. Our visit has lasted three + weeks already, and we really must bring it to a termination soon. The + weather has been beautiful, and we have made many delightful excursions, + all on horseback, to neighbouring stations, to a fine bush where we had a + picnic, or to some point of view. I can truly say I have enjoyed every + moment of the time, indoors as well as out; I was the only lady, and was + petted and made much of to my heart's content. There were several other + guests, and they were all nice and amusing. One wet day we had, and only + one. I must tell you an incident of it, to show you what babies grown-up + men can be at the Antipodes. We worked hard all the morning at acrostics, + and after my five o'clock tea I went upstairs to a charming little boudoir + prepared for me, to rest and read; in a short time I heard something like + music and stamping, and, though I was <i>en peignoir</i>, I stole softly + down to see what was going on; when I opened the door of the general + sitting-room a most unusual sight presented itself,—eight bearded + men, none of them very young, were dancing a set of quadrilles with the + utmost gravity and decorum to the tunes played by a large musical-box, + which was going at the most prodigious pace, consequently the dancers were + flying through the figures in silence and breathless haste. They could not + stop or speak when I came in, and seemed quite surprised at my laughing at + them; but you have no idea how ridiculous they looked, especially as their + gravity and earnestness were profound. + </p> + <p> + This is one of the very few stations where pheasants have been introduced, + but then, every arrangement has been made for their comfort, and a + beautiful house and yard built for their reception on a flat, just beneath + the high terrace on which the house stands. More than a hundred young + birds were turned out last spring, and there will probably be three times + that number at the end of this year. We actually had pheasant twice at + dinner; the first, and probably the last time we shall taste game in New + Zealand. There is a good deal of thick scrub in the clefts of the + home-terrace, and this affords excellent shelter for the young. Their + greatest enemies are the hawks, and every variety of trap and cunning + device for the destruction of these latter are in use, but as yet without + doing much execution among them, they are so wonderfully clever and + discerning. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XIX: A Christening gathering.—the fate of Dick. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, June 1867. We reached home quite safely the first week of this + month, and I immediately set to work to prepare for the Bishop's visit. We + met him at a friend's house one day, just as we were starting homewards, + and something led to my telling him about the destitute spiritual + condition of my favourite "nest of Cockatoos." With his usual energy, as + well as goodness, he immediately volunteered to come up to our little + place, hold a service, and christen all the children. We were only too + thankful to accept such an offer, as we well knew what an inducement it + would be to the people, who would take a great deal of trouble and come + from far and near to hear our dear Bishop, who is universally beloved and + respected. + </p> + <p> + For a week beforehand the house smelt all day long like a baker's shop + about noon on Sunday, for pies, tarts, cakes, etc., were perpetually being + "drawn" from the oven. I borrowed every pie-dish for miles round, and, as + on another occasion I have mentioned, plenty of good things which our own + resources could not furnish forth came pouring in on all sides with offers + to help. F—— and I scoured the country for thirty miles round + to invite everybody to come over to us that Sunday; and I think I may + truly say everybody came. When I rode over to my "nest" and made the + announcement of the Bishop's visit, the people were very much delighted; + but a great difficulty arose from the sudden demand for white frocks for + all the babies and older children. I rashly promised each child should + find a clean white garment awaiting it on its arrival at my house, and + took away a memorandum of all the different ages and sizes; the "order" + never could have been accomplished without the aid of my sewing-machine. I + had a few little frocks by me as patterns, and cut up some very smart + white embroidered petticoats which were quite useless to me, to make into + little skirts. In spite of all that was going on in the kitchen my maids + found time to get these up most beautifully, and by the Saturday night the + little bed in the spare room was a heap of snowy small garments, with a + name written on paper and pinned to each. The Bishop also arrived quite + safely, late that evening, having driven himself up from Christchurch in a + little gig. + </p> + <p> + It is impossible for you to imagine a more beautiful winter's morning than + dawned on us that Sunday. A sharp frost over-night only made the air + deliciously crisp, for the sun shone so brightly, that by nine o'clock the + light film of ice over the ponds had disappeared, and I found the Bishop + basking in the verandah when I came out to breakfast, instead of sitting + over the blazing wood-fire in the dining-room. We got our meal finished as + quickly as possible, and then F—— and Mr. U—— set + to work to fill the verandah with forms extemporised out of empty boxes + placed at each end, and planks laid across them; every red blanket in the + house was pressed into service to cover these rough devices, and the + effect at last was quite tidy. By eleven o'clock the drays began to arrive + in almost a continual stream; as each came up, its occupants were taken + into the kitchen, and given as much as they could eat of cold pies made of + either pork or mutton, bread and hot potatoes, and tea. As for teapots, + they were discarded, and the tea was made in huge kettles, whilst the milk + stood in buckets, into which quart jugs were dipped every five minutes. I + took care of all the women and children whilst F—— and Mr. U—— + looked after the men, showed them where to put the horses, etc. All this + time several gentlemen and two or three ladies had arrived, but there was + no one to attend to them, so they all very kindly came out and helped. We + insisted on the Bishop keeping quiet in the drawing-room, or he would have + worked as hard as any one. I never could have got the children into their + white frocks by two o'clock if it had not been for the help of the other + ladies; but at last they were all dressed, and the congregation—not + much under a hundred people—fed, and arranged in their places. There + had been a difficulty about finding sufficient godmothers and godfathers, + so F—— and I were sponsors for every child, and each parent + wished me to hand the child to the Bishop; but I could not lift up many of + the bigger ones, and they roared piteously when I touched their hands. I + felt it quite a beautiful and thrilling scene; the sunburnt faces all + around, the chubby, pretty little group of white-clad children, every one + well fed and comfortably clothed, the dogs lying at their masters feet, + the bright winter sunshine and dazzling sky, and our dear Bishops + commanding figure and clear, penetrating voice! He gave us a most + excellent sermon, short and simple, but so perfectly appropriate; and + after the service was over he went about, talking to all the various + groups such nice, helpful words. + </p> + <p> + The truest kindness was now to "speed the parting guest," so each dray + load, beginning with those whose homes were the most distant, was + collected. They were first taken into the kitchen and given a good meal of + hot tea, cake, and bread and butter, for many had four hours' jolting + before them; the red blankets were again called into requisition to act as + wraps, besides every cloak and shawl I possessed, for the moment the sun + sunk, which would be about four o'clock, the cold was sure to become + intense. We lived that day in the most scrambling fashion ourselves; there + was plenty of cold meat, etc., on the dining-room table, and piles of + plates, and whenever any of the party were hungry they went and helped + themselves, as my two servants were entirely occupied with looking after + the comfort of the congregation; it was such a treat to them to have, even + for a few hours, the society of other women. They have only one female + neighbour, and she is generally too busy to see much of them; besides + which, I think the real reason of the want of intimacy is that Mrs. M—— + is a very superior person, and when she comes up I generally like to have + a chat with her myself. It does me good to see her bonny Scotch face, and + hear the sweet kindly "Scot's tongue;" besides which she is my great + instructress in the mysteries of knitting socks and stockings, spinning, + making really good butter (not an easy thing, madam), and in all sorts of + useful accomplishments; her husband is the head shepherd on the next + station. They are both very fond of reading, and it was quite pretty to + see the delight they took in the Queen's book about the Highlands. + </p> + <p> + To return, however, to that Sunday. We were all dreadfully tired by the + time the last guest had departed, but we had a delightfully quiet evening, + and a long talk with the Bishop about our favourite scheme of the church + and school among the Cockatoos, and we may feel certain of his hearty + cooperation in any feasible plan for carrying it out. The next morning, + much to our regret, the Bishop left us for Christchurch, but he had to + hold a Confirmation service there, and could not give us even a few more + hours. We were so very fortunate in our weather. The following Sunday was + a pouring wet day, and we have had wind and rain almost ever since; it is + unusually wet, so I have nothing more to tell you of our doings, which + must seem very eccentric to you, by the way, but I assure you I enjoy the + gipsy unconventional life immensely. + </p> + <p> + You must not be critical about a jumble of subjects if I record poor + Dick's tragical fate here; it will serve to fill up my letter, and if ever + you have mourned for a pet dog you will sympathise with me. I must first + explain to you that on a sheep station strange dogs are regarded with a + most unfriendly eye by both master and shepherds. There are the proper + colleys,—generally each shepherd has two,—but no other dogs + are allowed, and I had great trouble to coax F—— to allow me + to accept two. One is a beautiful water-spaniel, jet black, Brisk by name, + but his character is stainless in the matter of sheep, and though very + handsome he is only an amiable idiot, his one amusement being to chase a + weka, which he never catches. The other dog was, alas! Dick, a small + black-and-tan terrier, very well bred, and full of tricks and play. We + never even suspected him of any wickedness, but as it turned out he must + have been a hardened offender. A few weeks after he came to us, when the + lambing season was at its height, and the low sunny hills near the house + were covered with hundreds of the pretty little white creatures, F——used + sometimes to come and ask me where Dick was, and, strange to say, Dick + constantly did not answer to my call. An evening or two later, just as we + were starting for our walk, Dick appeared in a great hurry from the back + of the stable. F—— went up immediately to him, and stooped + down to examine his mouth, calling me to see. Oh, horror! it was all + covered with blood and wool. I pleaded all sorts of extenuating + circumstances, but F—— said, with: judicial sternness, "This + cannot be allowed." Dick was more fascinating than usual, never looking at + a sheep whilst we were out walking with him, and behaving in the most + exemplary manner. F—— watched him all the next day, and at + last caught him in the act of killing a new-born lamb a little way from + the house; the culprit was brought to me hanging his tail with the most + guilty air, and F—— said, "I ought to shoot him, but if you + like I will try if a beating can cure him, but it must be a tremendous + one." I was obliged to accept this alternative, and retreated where I + could not hear Dick's howls under the lash, over the body of his victim. A + few hours after I went to the spot, lifted Dick up, and carried him into + my room to nurse him; for he could not move, he had been beaten so + severely. For two whole days he lay on the soft mat I gave him, only able + to lap a little warm milk; on the third morning he tried to get up, and + crawled into the verandah; I followed to watch him. Imagine my dismay at + seeing him limp to the place where the body of his last victim lay, and + deliberately begin tearing it to pieces. I followed him with my little + horsewhip and gave him a slight beating. I could not find it in my heart + to hit him very hard. I carefully concealed this incident from F——, + and for some days I never let Dick out of my sight for a moment; but early + one fine morning a knock came to our bed-room door, and a voice said, + "Please, sir, come and see what's the matter with the sheep? there's a + large mob of them at the back of the house being driven, like." Oh, my + prophetic soul! I felt it was Dick. Whilst F—— was huddling on + some clothes I implored him to temper justice with mercy, but never a word + did he say, and sternly took his gun in his hand and went out. I buried my + head in the pillows, but for all my precautions I heard the report of a + shot in the clear morning air, and the echo ringing back from all the + hills; five minutes afterwards F—— came in with a little blue + collar in his hand, and said briefly, "He has worried more than a dozen + lambs this morning alone." What could I say? F——'s only + attempt at consolation was, "he died instantly; I shot him through the + head." But for many days afterwards I felt quite lonely and sad without my + poor little pet—yet what could have been done? No one would have + accepted him as a present, and it flashed on me afterwards that perhaps + this vice of his was the reason of Dick's former owner being so anxious to + give him to me. I have had two offers of successors to Dick since, but I + shall never have another dog on a sheep station, unless I know what Mr. + Dickens' little dressmaker calls "its tricks and its manners." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XX: the New Zealand snowstorm of 1867. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, August 1867. I have had my first experience of real hardships + since I last wrote to you. Yes, we have all had to endure positive hunger + and cold, and, what I found much harder to bear, great anxiety of mind. I + think I mentioned that the weather towards the end of July had been + unusually disagreeable, but not very cold This wet fortnight had a great + deal to do with our sufferings afterwards, for it came exactly at the time + we were accustomed to send our dray down to Christchurch for supplies of + flour and groceries, and to lay in a good stock of coals for the winter; + these latter had been ordered, and were expected every day. Just the last + few days of July the weather cleared up, and became like our usual most + beautiful winter climate; so, after waiting a day or two, to allow the + roads to dry a little, the dray was despatched to town, bearing a long + list of orders, and with many injunctions to the driver to return as + quickly as possible, for all the stores were at the lowest ebb. I am + obliged to tell you these domestic details, in order that you may + understand the reason of our privations. I acknowledge, humbly, that it + was not good management, but sometimes accidents <i>will</i> occur. It was + also necessary for F—— to make a journey to Christchurch on + business, and as he probably would be detained there for nearly a week, it + was arranged that one of the young gentlemen from Rockwood should ride + over and escort me back there, to remain during F——'s absence. + I am going to give you all the exact dates, for this snow-storm will be a + matter of history, during the present generation at all events: there is + no tradition among the Maoris of such a severe one ever having occurred; + and what made it more fatal in its financial consequences to every one + was, that the lambing season had only just commenced or terminated on most + of the runs. Only a few days before he left, F—— had taken me + for a ride in the sheltered valleys, that he might see the state of the + lambs, and pronounced it most satisfactory; thousands of the pretty little + creatures were skipping about by their mothers' side. + </p> + <p> + I find, by my Diary, July 29th marked, as the beginning of a + "sou'-wester." F—— had arranged to start that morning, and as + his business was urgent, he did not like to delay his departure, though + the day was most unpromising, a steady, fine drizzle, and raw atmosphere; + however, we hurried breakfast, and he set off, determining to push on to + town as quickly as possible. I never spent such a dismal day in my life: + my mind was disturbed by secret anxieties about the possibility of the + dray being detained by wet weather, and there was such an extraordinary + weight in the air, the dense mist seemed pressing everything down to the + ground; however, I drew the sofa to the fire, made up a good blaze (the + last I saw for some time), and prepared to pass a lazy day with a book; + but I felt so restless and miserable I did not know what was the matter + with me. I wandered from window to window, and still the same unusual + sight met my eyes; a long procession of ewes and lambs, all travelling + steadily down from the hills towards the large flat in front of the house; + the bleating was incessant, and added to the intense melancholy of the + whole affair. When Mr. U—— came in to dinner; at one o'clock, + he agreed with me that it was most unusual weather, and said, that on the + other ranges the sheep were drifting before the cold mist and rain just in + the same way. Our only anxiety arose from the certainty that the dray + would be delayed at least a day, and perhaps two; this was a dreadful + idea: for some time past we had been economising our resources to make + them last, and we knew that there was absolutely nothing at the + home-station, nor at our nearest neighbour's, for they had sent to borrow + tea and sugar from us. Just at dusk that evening, two gentlemen rode up, + not knowing F—— was from home, and asked if they might remain + for the night. I knew them both very well; in fact, one was our cousin T——, + and the other an old friend; so they put up their horses, and housed their + dogs (for each had a valuable sheep-dog with him) in a barrel full of + clean straw, and we all tried to spend a cheerful evening, but everybody + confessed to the same extraordinary depression of spirits that I felt. + </p> + <p> + When I awoke the next morning, I was not much surprised to see the snow + falling thick and fast: no sheep were now visible, there was a great + silence, and the oppression in the atmosphere had if possible increased. + We had a very poor breakfast,—no porridge, very little mutton (for + in expectation of the house being nearly empty, the shepherd had not + brought any over the preceding day), and <i>very</i> weak tea; coffee and + cocoa all finished, and about an ounce of tea in the chest. I don't know + how the gentlemen amused themselves that day; I believe they smoked a good + deal; I could only afford a small fire in the drawing-room, over which I + shivered. The snow continued to fall in dense fine clouds, quite unlike + any snow I ever saw before, and towards night I fancied the garden fence + was becoming very much dwarfed. Still the consolation was, "Oh, it won't + last; New Zealand snow never: does." However, on Wednesday morning things + began to look very serious indeed: the snow covered the ground to a depth + of four feet in the shallowest places, and still continued to fall + steadily; the cows we knew <i>must</i> be in the paddock were not to be + seen anywhere; the fowl-house and pig-styes which stood towards the + weather quarter had entirely disappeared; every scrap of wood (and several + logs were lying about at the back) was quite covered up; both the + verandahs were impassable; in one the snow was six feet deep, and the only + door which could be opened was the back-kitchen door, as that opened + inwards; but here the snow was half-way over the roof, so it took a good + deal of work with the kitchen-shovel, for no spades could be found, to dig + out a passage. Indoors, we were approaching our last mouthful very + rapidly, the tea at breakfast was merely coloured hot water, and we had + some picnic biscuits with it. For dinner we had the last tin of sardines, + the last pot of apricot jam, and a tin of ratifia biscuits a most + extraordinary mixture, I admit, but there was nothing else. There were six + people to be fed every day, and nothing to feed them with. Thursday's + breakfast was a discovered crust of dry bread, very stale, and our dinner + that day was rice and salt—the last rice in the store-room. The snow + still never ceased falling, and only one window in the house afforded us + any light; every box was broken up and used for fuel. The gentlemen used + to go all together and cut, or rather dig, a passage through the huge + drift in front of the stable, and with much difficulty get some food for + the seven starving horses outside, who were keeping a few yards clear by + incessantly moving about, the snow making high walls all around them. + </p> + <p> + It was wonderful to see how completely the whole aspect of the surrounding + scenery was changed; the gullies were all filled up, and nearly level with + the downs; sharp-pointed cliffs were now round bluffs; there was no + vestige of a fence or gate or shrub to be seen, and still the snow came + down as if it had only just begun to fall; out of doors the silence was + like death, I was told, for I could only peep down the tunnel dug every + few hours at the back-kitchen door. My two maids now gave way, and sat + clasped in each other's arms all day, crying piteously, and bewailing + their fate, asking me whenever I came into the kitchen, which was about + every half-hour, for there was no fire elsewhere, "And oh, when do you + think we'll be found, mum?" Of course this only referred to the ultimate + discovery of our bodies. There was a great search to-day for the cows, but + it was useless, the gentlemen sank up to their shoulders in snow. Friday, + the same state of things: a little flour had been discovered in a + discarded flour-bag, and we had a sort of girdle-cake and water. The only + thing remaining in the store-room was some blacklead, and I was + considering seriously how that could be cooked, or whether it would be + better raw: we were all more than half starved, and quite frozen: very + little fire in the kitchen, and none in any other room. Of course, the + constant thought was, "Where are the sheep?" Not a sign or sound could be + heard. The dogs' kennels were covered several feet deep; so we could not + get at them at all. Saturday morning: the first good news I heard was that + the cows had been found, and dragged by ropes down to the enclosure the + horses had made for them-selves: they were half dead, poor beasts; but + after struggling for four hours to and from a haystack two hundred yards + off, one end of which was unburied, some oaten hay was procured for them. + There was now not a particle of food in the house. The servants remained + in their beds, declining to get up, and alleging that they might as well + "die warm." In the middle of the day a sort of forlorn-hope was organized + by the gentlemen to try to find the fowl-house, but they could not get + through the drift: however, they dug a passage to the wash-house, and + returned in triumph with about a pound of very rusty bacon they had found + hanging up there; this was useless without fuel, so they dug for a little + gate leading to the garden, fortunately hit its whereabouts, and soon had + it broken up and in the kitchen grate. By dint of taking all the lead out + of the tea-chests, shaking it, and collecting every pinch of tea-dust, we + got enough to make a teapot of the weakest tea, a cup of which I took to + my poor crying maids in their beds, having first put a spoonful of the + last bottle of whisky which the house possessed into it, for there was + neither, sugar nor milk to be had. At midnight the snow ceased for a few + hours, and a hard sharp frost set in; this made our position worse, for + they could now make no impression on the snow, and only broke the shovels + in trying. I began to think seriously of following the maids example, in + order to "die warm." We could do nothing but wait patiently. I went up to + a sort of attic where odds and ends were stowed away, in search of + something to eat, but could find nothing more tempting than a supply of + wax matches. We knew there was a cat under the house, for we heard her + mewing; and it was suggested to take up the carpets first, then the + boards, and have a hunt for the poor old pussy but we agreed to bear our + hunger a little longer, chiefly, I am afraid, because she was known to be + both thin and aged. + </p> + <p> + Towards noon on Sunday the weather suddenly changed, and rain began to + come down heavily and steadily; this cheered us all immensely, as it would + wash the snow away probably, and so it did to some degree; the highest + drifts near the house lessened considerably in a few hours, and the + gentlemen, who by this time were desperately hungry, made a final attempt + in the direction of the fowl-house, found the roof, tore off some + shingles, and returned with a few aged hens, which were mere bundles of + feathers after their week's starvation. The servants consented to rise and + pluck them, whilst the gentlemen sallied forth once more to the + stock-yard, and with great difficulty got off two of the cap or top rails, + so we had a splendid though transitory blaze, and some hot stewed fowl; it + was more of a soup than anything else, but still we thought it delicious: + and then everybody went to bed again, for the house was quite dark still, + and the oil and candles were running very low. On Monday morning the snow + was washed off the roof a good deal by the deluge of rain which had never + ceased to come steadily down, and the windows were cleared a little, just + at the top; but we were delighted with the improvement, and some cold weak + fowl-soup for breakfast, which we thought excellent. On getting out of + doors, the gentlemen reported the creeks to be much swollen and rushing in + yellow streams down the sides of the hills over the snow, which was + apparently as thick as ever; but it was now easier to get through at the + surface, though quite solid for many feet from the ground. A window was + scraped clear, through which I could see the desolate landscape out of + doors, and some hay was carried with much trouble to the starving cows and + horses, but this was a work of almost incredible difficulty. Some more + fowls were procured to-day, nearly the last, for a large hole in the roof + showed most of them dead of cold and hunger. + </p> + <p> + We were all in much better spirits on this night, for there were signs of + the wind shifting from south to north-west; and, for the first time in our + lives I suppose, we were anxiously watching and desiring this change, as + it was the only chance of saving the thousands of sheep and lambs we now + knew lay buried under the smooth white winding-sheet of snow. Before + bedtime we heard the fitful gusts we knew so well, and had never before + hailed with such deep joy and thankfulness. Every time I woke the same + welcome sound of the roaring warm gale met my ears; and we were prepared + for the pleasant sight, on Tuesday morning, of the highest rocks on the + hill-tops standing out gaunt and bare once more. The wind was blowing the + snow off the hills in clouds like spray, and melting it everywhere so + rapidly that we began to have a new anxiety, for the creeks were rising + fast, and running in wide, angry-looking rivers over the frozen snow on + the banks. All immediate apprehension of starvation, however, was removed, + for the gentlemen dug a pig out of his stye, where he had been warm and + comfortable with plenty of straw, and slaughtered him; and in the loft of + the stable was found a bag of Indian meal for fattening poultry, which + made excellent cakes of bread. It was very nasty having only ice-cold + water to drink at every meal. I especially missed my tea for breakfast; + but felt ashamed to grumble, for my disagreeables were very light compared + to those of the three gentlemen. From morning to night they were wet + through, as the snow of course melted the moment they came indoors. All + the first part of the last week they used to work out of doors, trying to + get food and fuel, or feeding the horses, in the teeth of a bitter wind, + with the snow driving like powdered glass against their smarting hands and + faces; and they were as cheery and merry as possible through it all, + trying hard to pretend they were neither hungry nor cold, when they must + have been both. Going out of doors at this stage of affairs simply meant + plunging up to their middle in a slush of half-melted snow which wet them + thoroughly in a moment; and they never had dry clothes on again till they + changed after dark, when there was no more possibility of outdoor work. + </p> + <p> + Wednesday morning broke bright and clear for the first time since Sunday + week; we actually saw the sun. Although the "nor-wester" had done so much + good for us, and a light wind still blew softly from that quarter, the + snow was yet very deep; but I felt in such high spirits that I determined + to venture out, and equipped myself in a huge pair of F——'s + riding-boots made of kangaroo-skin, well greased with weka-oil to keep the + wet out, These I put on over my own thick boots, but my precautions "did + nought avail," for the first step I took sank me deep in the snow over the + tops of my enormous boots. They filled immediately, and then merely served + to keep the snow securely packed round my ankles; however, I struggled + bravely on, every now and then sinking up to my shoulders, and having to + be hauled out by main force. The first thing done was to dig out the dogs, + who assisted the process by vigorously scratching away inside and + tunnelling towards us. Poor things! how thin they looked, but they were + quite warm; and after indulging in a long drink at the nearest creek, they + bounded about, like mad creatures. The only casualties in the kennels were + two little puppies, who were lying cuddled up as if they were asleep, but + proved to be stiff and cold; and a very old but still valuable collie + called "Gipsy." She was enduring such agonies from rheumatism that it was + terrible to hear her howls; and after trying to relieve her by rubbing, + taking her into the stable-and in fact doing all we could for her—it + seemed better and kinder to shoot her two days afterwards. + </p> + <p> + We now agreed to venture into the paddock and see what had happened to the + bathing-place about three hundred yards from the house. I don't think I + have told you that the creek had been here dammed up with a sod wall + twelve feet high, and a fine deep and broad pond made, which was cleared + of weeds and grass, and kept entirely for the gentlemen to have a plunge + and swim at daylight of a summer's morning; there had been a wide trench + cut about two feet from the top, so as to carry off the water, and + hitherto this had answered perfectly. The first thing we had to do was to + walk over the high five-barred gate leading into the paddock just the + topmost bar was sticking up, but there was not a trace of the little + garden-gate or of the fence, which was quite a low one. We were, however, + rejoiced to see that on the ridges of the sunny downs there were patches, + or rather streaks, of tussocks visible, and they spread in size every + moment, for the sun was quite warm, and the "nor'-wester," had done much + towards softening the snow. It took us a long time to get down to where + the bathing-place <i>had been</i>, for the sod wall was quite carried + away, and there was now only a heap of ruin, with a muddy torrent pouring + through the large gap and washing it still more away. Close to this was a + very sunny sheltered down, or rather hill; and as the snow was rapidly + melting off its warm sloping sides we agreed to climb it and see if any + sheep could be discovered, for up to this time there had been none seen or + heard, though we knew several thousands must be on this flat and the + adjoining ones. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we got to the top the first glance showed us a small dusky + patch close to the edge of one of the deepest and widest creeks at the + bottom of the pad-dock; experienced eyes saw they were sheep, but to me + they had not the shape of animals at all, though they were quite near + enough to be seen distinctly. I observed the gentlemen exchange looks of + alarm, and they said to each other some low words, from which I gathered + that they feared the worst. Before we went down to the flat we took a + long, careful look round, and made out another patch, dark by comparison + with the snow, some two hundred yards lower down the creek, but apparently + in the water. On the other side of the little hill the snow seemed to have + drifted even more deeply, for the long narrow valley which lay there + presented, as far as we could see, one smooth, level snow-field. On the + dazzling white surface the least fleck shows, and I can never forget how + beautiful some swamp-hens, with their dark blue plumage, short, pert, + white tails, and long bright legs, looked, as they searched slowly along + the banks of the swollen creek for some traces of their former haunts; but + every tuft of tohi-grass lay bent and buried deep beneath its heavy + covering. The gentlemen wanted me to go home before they attempted to see + the extent of the disaster, which we all felt must be very great; but I + found it impossible to do anything but accompany them. I am half glad and + half sorry now that I was obstinate; glad because I helped a little at a + time when the least help was precious, and sorry because it was really + such a horrible sight. Even the first glance showed us that, as soon as we + got near the spot we had observed, we were walking on frozen sheep + embedded in the snow one over the other; but at all events their misery + had been over some time. It was more horrible to see the drowning, or just + drowned, huddled-up "mob" (as sheep <i>en masse</i> are technically + called) which had made the dusky patch we had noticed from the hill. + </p> + <p> + No one can ever tell how many hundred ewes and lambs had taken refuge + under the high terrace which forms the bank of the creek. The snow had + soon covered them up, but they probably were quite warm and dry at first. + The terrible mischief was caused by the creek rising so rapidly, and, + filtering through the snow which it gradually dissolved, drowned them as + they stood huddled together. Those nearest the edge of the water of course + went first, but we were fortunately in time to save a good many, though + the living seemed as nothing compared to the heaps of dead. We did not + waste a moment in regrets or idleness; the most experienced of the + gentlemen said briefly what was to be done, and took his coat off; the + other coats and my little Astrachan jacket were lying by its side in an + instant, and we all set to work, sometimes up to our knees in icy water, + digging at the bank of snow above us—if you can call it digging when + we had nothing but our hands to dig, or rather scratch, with. Oh, how hot + we were in five minutes! the sun beating on us, and the reflection from + the snow making its rays almost blinding. It was of no use my attempting + to rescue the sheep, for I could not move them, even when I had <i>scrattled</i> + the snow away from one. A sheep, especially with its fleece full of snow, + is beyond my small powers: even the lambs I found a tremendous weight, and + it must have been very absurd, if an idler had been by, to see me, with a + little lamb in my arms, tumbling down at every second step, but still + struggling manfully towards the dry oasis where we put each animal as it + was dug out. The dear doggies helped us beautifully, working so eagerly + and yet so wisely under their master's eye, as patient and gentle with the + poor stiffened creatures as if they could feel for them. I was astonished + at the vitality of some of the survivors; if they had been very far back + and not chilled by the water, they were quite lively. The strongest sheep + were put across the stream by the dogs, who were obedient to their + master's finger, and not to be induced on any terms to allow the sheep to + land a yard to one side of the place on the opposite bank, but just where + they were to go. A good many were swept away, but after six hours' work we + counted 1,400 rescued ones slowly "trailing" up the low sunny hill I have + mentioned, and nibbling at the tussocks as they went. The proportion of + lambs was, of course, very small, but the only wonder to me is that there + were any alive at all. If I had been able to stop my scratching but for a + moment, I would have had what the servants call a "good cry" over one + little group I laid bare. Two fine young ewes were standing leaning + against each other in a sloping position, like a tent, frozen and + immoveable: between them, quite dry, and as lively as a kitten, was a dear + little lamb of about a month old belonging to one; the lamb of the other + lay curled up at her feet, dead and cold; I really believe they had hit + upon this way of keeping the other alive. A more pathetic sight I never + beheld. + </p> + <p> + It is needless to say that we were all most dreadfully exhausted by the + time the sun went down, and it began to freeze; nothing but the sheer + impossibility of doing anything more in the hardening snow and approaching + darkness made us leave off even then, though we had not tasted food all + day. The gentlemen took an old ewe, who could not stand, though it was not + actually dead, up to the stable and killed it, to give the poor dogs a + good meal, and then they had to get some more rails off the stock-yard to + cook our own supper of pork and maize. + </p> + <p> + The next morning was again bright with a warm wind; so the effect of the + night's frost soon disappeared, and we were hard at work directly after + breakfast. Nothing would induce me to stay at home, but I armed myself + with a coal-scoop to dig, and we made our way to the other "mob;" but, + alas! there was nothing to do in the way of saving life, for all the sheep + were dead. There was a large island formed at a bend in the creek, where + the water had swept with such fury round a point as to wash the snow and + sheep all away together, till at some little obstacle they began to + accumulate in a heap. I counted ninety-two dead ewes in one spot, but I + did not stay to count the lambs. We returned to the place where we had + been digging the day before, and set the dogs to hunt in the drifts; + wherever they began to scratch we shovelled the snow away, and were sure + to find sheep either dead or nearly so: however, we liberated a good many + more. This sort of work continued till the following Saturday, when F—— + returned, having had a most dangerous journey, as the roads are still + blocked up in places with snow-drifts; but he was anxious to get back, + knowing I must have been going through "hard times." He was terribly + shocked at the state of things among the sheep; in Christchurch no + definite news had reached them from any quarter: all the coaches were + stopped and the telegraph wires broken down by the snow. He arrived about + mid-day, and, directly after the meal we still called dinner, started off + over the hills to my "nest of Cockatoos," and brought back some of the men + with him to help to search for the sheep, and to skin those that were dead + as fast as possible. He worked himself all day at the skinning,—a + horrible job; but the fleeces were worth something, and soon all the + fences, as they began to emerge from the snow, were tapestried with these + ghastly skins, and walking became most disagreeable, on account of the + evil odours arising every few yards. + </p> + <p> + We forgot all our personal sufferings in anxiety about the surviving + sheep, and when the long-expected dray arrived it seemed a small boon + compared to the discovery of a nice little "mob" feeding tranquilly on a + sunny spur. It is impossible to estimate our loss until the grand muster + at shearing, but we may set it down at half our flock, and <i>all</i> our + lambs, or at least 90 per cent. of them. Our neighbours are all as busy as + we are, so no accurate accounts of their sufferings or losses have reached + us; but, to judge by appearances, the distant "back-country" ranges must + have felt the storm more severely even than we have; and although the snow + did not drift to such a depth on the plains as with us, or lie so long on + the ground, they suffered just as much,—for the sheep took shelter + under the high river-banks, and the tragedy of the creeks was enacted on a + still larger scale; or they drifted along before the first day's gale till + they came to a wire fence, and there they were soon covered up, and + trampled each other to death. Not only were sheep, but cattle, found dead + in hundreds along the fences on the plains. The newspapers give half a + million as a rough estimate of the loss among the flocks in this province + alone. We have no reliable news from other parts of the island, only vague + rumours of the storm having been still more severe in the Province of + Otago, which lies to the south, and would be right in its track; the only + thing which all are agreed in saying is, that there never has been such a + storm before, for the Maories are strong in weather traditions, and though + they prophesied this one, it is said they have no legend of anything like + it ever having happened. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XXI: Wild cattle hunting in the Kowai Bush. + </h2> + <p> + Mount Torlesse, October 1867. We are staying for a week at a charming + little white cottage covered with roses and honeysuckles, nestled under + the shadow of this grand mountain, to make some expeditions after wild + cattle in the great Kowai Bush. I am afraid that it does not sound a very + orderly and feminine occupation, but I enjoy it thoroughly, and have + covered myself with glory and honour by my powers of walking all day. + </p> + <p> + We have already spent three long happy days in the Bush, and although they + have not resulted in much slaughter of our big game, still I for one am + quite as well pleased as if we had returned laden with as many beeves as + used to come in from a border foray. I am not going to inflict an account + of each expedition on you; one will serve to give an idea of all, for + though there is no monotony in Nature, it may chance that frequent + descriptions of her become so, and this I will not risk. + </p> + <p> + Our ride over here was a sufficiently ridiculous affair, owing to the + misbehaviour of the pack-horse, for it was impossible upon this occasion + to manage with as little luggage as usual, so we arranged to take a + good-sized carpet-bag (a most unheard-of luxury), and on each side of it + was to be slung a rifle and a gun, and smaller bags of bullets, shot, and + powder-flasks, disposed to the best advantage on the pack-saddle. This was + all very well in theory, but when it came to the point, the proper steady + old horse who was to bear the pack was not forthcoming! He had taken it + into his head to go on a visit to a neighbouring run, so the only + available beast was a young chestnut of most uncertain temper. The process + of saddling him was a long one, as he objected to each item of his load as + soon as it was put on, especially to the guns; but F—— was + very patient, and took good care to tie and otherwise fasten everything so + that it was impossible for "Master Tucker" (called, I suppose, after the + immortal Tommy) to get rid of his load by either kicking or plunging. At + last we mounted and rode by a bridle-path among the hills for some twelve + miles or so, then across half-a-dozen miles of plain, and finally we + forded a river. The hill-track was about as bad as a path could be, with + several wide jumps across creeks at the bottom of the numerous deep + ravines, or gullies as we call them. F—— rode first—for + we could only go in single file—with the detestable Tucker's bridle + over his arm; then came the chestnut, with his ears well back, and his + eyes all whites, in his efforts to look at his especial aversion, the + guns; he kicked all the way down the many hills, and pulled back in the + most aggravating manner at each ascent, and when we came to a creek sat + down on his tail, refusing to stir. My position was a most trying one; the + track was so bad that I would fain have given my mind entirely to my own + safety, but instead of this all my attention was centred on Tucker the + odious. When we first started I expressed to F—— my fear that + Tucker would fairly drag him off his own saddle, and he admitted that it + was very likely, adding, "You must flog him." This made me feel that it + entirely depended on my efforts whether F—— was to be killed + or not, so I provided myself with a small stock-whip in addition to my own + little riding-whip, and we set off. From the first yard Tucker objected to + go, but there were friendly sticks to urge him on; however, we soon got + beyond the reasonable limits of help, and I tried desperately to impress + upon Tucker that I was going to be very severe: for this purpose I + flourished my stock-whip in a way that drove my own skittish mare nearly + frantic, and never touched Tucker, whom F—— was dragging along + by main force. At last I gave up the stock-whip, with its unmanageable + three yards of lash, and dropped it on the track, to be picked up as we + came home. I now tried to hit Tucker with my horse-whip, but he flung his + heels up in Helen's face the moment I touched him. I was in perfect + despair, very much afraid of a sudden swerve on my mare's part sending us + both down the precipice, and in equal dread of seeing F—— + pulled off his saddle by Tucker's suddenly planting his fore-feet firmly + together: F—— himself, with the expression of a martyr, + looking round every now and then to say, "Can't you make him come on?" and + I hitting wildly and vainly, feeling all the time that I was worse than + useless. At last the bright idea occurred to me to ride nearly alongside + of the fiendish Tucker, but a little above him on the hill, so as to be + able to strike him fairly without fear of his heels. As far as Tucker was + concerned this plan answered perfectly, for he soon found out he had to + go; but Helen objected most decidedly to being taken off the comparative + safety of the track and made to walk on a slippery, sloping hill, where + she could hardly keep her feet; however, we got on much faster this way. + Oh, how tired I was of striking Tucker! I don't believe I hurt him much, + but I felt quite cruel. When we came to the plain, I begged F—— + to let me lead him; so we changed, and there was no holding back on the + chestnut's part then; it must have been like the grass and the stones in + the fable. I never was more thankful than when that ride was over, though + its disagreeables were soon forgotten in the warm welcome we received from + our bachelor hosts, and the incessant discussions about the next day's + excursion. + </p> + <p> + We had finished breakfast by seven o'clock the following morning, and were + ready to start. Of course the gentlemen were very fussy about their + equipments, and hung themselves all over with cartridges and bags of + bullets and powder-flasks; then they had to take care that their + tobacco-pouches and match-boxes were filled; and lastly, each carried a + little flask of brandy or sherry, in case of being lost and having to camp + out. I felt quite unconcerned, having only my flask with cold tea in it to + see about, and a good walking-stick was easily chosen. My costume may be + described as uncompromising, for it had been explained to me that there + were no paths but real rough bush walking; so I dispensed with all little + feminine adornments even to the dearly-loved chignon, tucked my hair away + as if I was going to put on a bathing-cap, and covered it with a Scotch + bonnet. The rest of my toilette must have been equally shocking to the + eyes of taste, and I have reason to believe the general effect most + hideous; but one great comfort was, no one looked at me, they were all too + much absorbed in preparations for a great slaughter, and I only came at + all upon sufferance; the unexpressed but prevailing dread, I could plainly + see, was that I should knock up and become a bore, necessitating an early + return home; but I knew better! + </p> + <p> + An American waggon and some ponies were waiting to take the whole party to + the entrance of the bush, about four miles off, and, in spite of having to + cross a rough river-bed, which is always a slow process, it did not take + us very long to reach our first point. Here we dismounted, just at the + edge of the great dense forest, and, with as little delay as possible in + fine arrangements, struck into a path or bullock-track, made for about + three miles into the bush for the convenience of dragging out the felled + trees by ropes or chains attached to bullocks; they are not placed upon a + waggon, so you may easily imagine the state the track was in, ploughed up + by huge logs of timber dragged on the ground, and by the bullocks' hoofs + besides. It was a mere slough with deep holes of mud in it, and we + scrambled along its extreme edge, chiefly trusting to the trees on each + side, which still lay as they had been felled, the men not considering + them good enough to remove. At last we came to a clearing, and I quite + despair of making you understand how romantic and lovely this open space + in the midst of the tall trees looked that beautiful spring morning. I + involuntarily thought of the descriptions in "Paul and Virginia," for the + luxuriance of the growth was quite tropical. For about two acres the trees + had been nearly all felled, only one or two giants remaining; their stumps + were already hidden by clematis and wild creepers of other kinds, or by a + sort of fern very like the hart's-tongue, which will only grow on the bark + of trees, and its glossy leaves made an exquisite contrast to the rough + old root. The "bushmen"—as the men who have bought twenty-acre + sections and settled in the bush are called—had scattered English + grass-seed all over the rich leafy mould, and the ground was covered with + bright green grass, kept short and thick by a few tame goats browsing + about. Before us was the steep bank of the river Waimakiriri, and a few + yards from its edge stood a picturesque gable-ended little cottage + surrounded by a rustic fence, which enclosed a strip of garden gay with + common English spring flowers, besides more useful things, potatoes, etc. + The river was about two hundred yards broad just here, and though it + foamed below us, we could also see it stretching away in the distance + almost like a lake, till a great bluff hid it from our eyes. Overhead the + trees were alive with flocks of wild pigeons, ka-kas, parroquets, and + other birds, chattering and twittering incessantly and as we stood on the + steep bank and looked down, I don't think a minute passed without a brace + of wild ducks flying past, grey, blue, and Paradise. These latter are the + most beautiful plumaged birds I ever saw belonging to the duck tribe, and, + when young, are very good eating, quite as delicate as the famous + canvas-back. This sight so excited our younger sportsmen that they + scrambled down the high precipice, followed by a water-spaniel, and in + five minutes had bagged as many brace. We could not give them any more + time, for it was past nine o'clock, and we were all eager to start on the + serious business of the day; but before we left, the mistress of this + charming "bush-hut" insisted on our having some hot coffee and scones and + wild honey, a most delicious second breakfast. There was a pretty little + girl growing up, and a younger child, both the picture of health; the only + drawback seemed to be the mosquitoes; it was not very lonely, for one or + two other huts stood in clearings adjoining, and furnished us with three + bushmen as guides and assistants. I must say, they were the most + picturesque of the party, being all handsome men, dressed in red flannel + shirts and leathern knickerbockers and gaiters; they had fine beards, and + wore "diggers' hats," a head-dress of American origin—a sort of + wide-awake made of plush, capable of being crushed into any shape, and + very becoming. All were armed with either rifle or gun, and one carried an + axe and a coil of rope; another had a gun such as is seldom seen out of an + arsenal; it was an old flint lock, but had been altered to a percussion; + its owner was very proud of it, not so much for its intrinsic beauty, + though it once had been a costly and splendid weapon and was elaborately + inlaid with mother-of-pearl, but because it had belonged to a former Duke + of Devonshire. In spite of its claims to consideration on this head as + well as its own beauty, we all eyed it with extreme disfavour on account + of a peculiarity it possessed of not going off when it was intended to do + so, but about five minutes afterwards. + </p> + <p> + It was suggested to me very politely that I might possibly prefer to + remain behind and spend the day in this picturesque spot, but this offer I + declined steadily; I think the bushmen objected to my presence more than + any one else, as they really meant work, and dreaded having to turn back + for a tired "female" (they never spoke of me by any other term). At last + all the information was collected about the probable whereabouts of the + wild cattle—it was so contradictory, that it must have been + difficult to arrange any plan by it,—and we started. A few hundred + yards took us past the clearings and into the very heart of the forest. We + had left the sun shining brightly overhead; here it was all a "great green + gloom." I must describe to you the order in which we marched. First came + two of the most experienced "bush-hands," who carried a tomahawk or light + axe with which to clear the most cruel of the brambles away, and to notch + the trees as a guide to us on our return; and also a compass, for we had + to steer for a certain point, the bearings of which we knew—of + course the procession was in Indian file: next to these pioneers walked, + very cautiously, almost on tiptoe, four of our sportsmen; then I came; and + four or five others, less keen or less well armed, brought up the rear. I + may here confess that I endured in silence agonies of apprehension for my + personal safety all day. It was so dreadful to see a bramble or wild + creeper catch in the lock of the rifle before me, and to reflect that, + unless its owner was very careful, it might "go off of its own accord," + and to know that I was exposed to a similar danger from those behind. + </p> + <p> + We soon got on the fresh tracks of some cows, and proceeded most + cautiously and silently; but it could hardly be called walking, it was + alternately pushing through dense undergrowth, crawling beneath, or + climbing over, high barricades made by fallen trees. These latter + obstacles I found the most difficult, for the bark was so slippery; and + once, when with much difficulty I had scrambled up a pile of <i>debris</i> + at least ten feet high, I incautiously stepped on some rotten wood at the + top, and went through it into a sort of deep pit, out of which it was very + hard to climb. On comparing notes afterwards, we found, that although we + had walked without a moment's cessation for eleven hours during the day, a + pedometer only gave twenty-two miles as the distance accomplished. Before + we had been in the bush half an hour our faces were terribly scratched and + bleeding, and so were the gentlemen's hands; my wrists also suffered, as + my gauntlets would not do their duty and lie flat. There were myriads of + birds around us, all perfectly tame; many flew from twig to twig, + accompanying us with their little pert heads on one side full of + curiosity; the only animals we saw were some wild sheep looking very + disreputable with their long tails and torn, trailing fleeces of six or + seven years' growth. There are supposed to be some hundreds of these in + the bush who have strayed into it years ago, when they were lambs, from + neighbouring runs. The last man in the silent procession put a match into + a dead tree every here and there, to serve as a torch to guide us back in + the dark; but this required great judgment for fear of setting the whole + forest on fire: the tree required to be full of damp decay, which would + only smoulder and not blaze. We intended to steer for a station on the + other side of a narrow neck of the Great Bush, ten miles off, as nearly as + we could guess, but we made many detours after fresh tracks. Once these + hoof-marks led us to the brink of such a pretty creek, exactly like a + Scotch burn, wide and noisy, tumbling down from rock to rock, but not very + deep. After a whispered consultation, it was determined to follow up this + creek to a well-known favourite drinking-place of the cattle, but it was + easier walking in the water than on the densely-grown banks, so all the + gentlemen stepped in one after another. I hesitated a moment with one's + usual cat-like antipathy to wet feet, when a stalwart bushman approached, + with rather a victimised air and the remark: "Ye're heavy, nae doot, to + carry." I was partly affronted at this prejudgment of the case, and partly + determined to show that I was equal to the emergency, for I immediately + jumped into the water, frightening myself a good deal by the tremendous + splash I made, and meeting reproving glances; and nine heads were shaken + violently at me. + </p> + <p> + Nothing could be more beautiful than the winding banks of this creek, + fringed with large ferns in endless variety; it was delightful to see the + sun and sky once more overhead, but I cannot say that it was the easiest + possible walking, and I soon found out that the cleverest thing to do was + to wade a little way behind the shortest gentleman of the party, for when + he disappeared in a hole I knew it in time to avoid a similar fate; + whereas, as long as I persisted in stalking solemnly after my own tall + natural protector, I found that I was always getting into difficulties in + unexpectedly deep places. I saw the bushmen whispering together, and + examining the rocks in some places, but I found on inquiry that their + thoughts were occupied at the moment by other ideas than sport; one of + them had been a digger, and was pronouncing an opinion that this creek was + very likely to prove a "home of the gold" some day. There is a strong + feeling prevalent that gold will be found in great quantities all over the + island. At this time of the year the water is very shallow, but the stream + evidently comes down with tremendous force in the winter; and they talk of + having "found the colour" (of gold) in some places. We proceeded in this + way for about three miles, till we reached a beautiful, clear, deep pool, + into which the water fell from a height in a little cascade; the banks + here were well trodden, and the hoof-prints quite recent; great excitement + was caused by hearing a distant lowing, but after much listening, in true + Indian fashion, with the ear to the ground, everybody was of a different + opinion as to the side from whence the sound proceeded, so we determined + to keep on our original course; the compass was once more produced, and we + struck into a dense wood of black birch. + </p> + <p> + Ever since we left the clearing from which the start was made, we had + turned our backs on the river, but about three o'clock in the afternoon we + came suddenly on it again, and stood on the most beautiful spot I ever saw + in my life. We were on the top of a high precipice, densely wooded to the + water's edge. Some explorers in bygone days must have camped here, for + half-a-dozen trees were felled, and the thick brush-wood had been burnt + for a few yards, just enough to let us take in the magnificent view before + and around us. Below roared and foamed, among great boulders washed down + from the cliff, the Waimakiriri; in the middle of it lay a long narrow + strip of white shingle, covered with water in the winter floods, but now + shining like snow in the bright sunlight. Beyond this the river flowed as + placidly as a lake, in cool green depths, reflecting every leaf of the + forest on the high bank or cliff opposite. To our right it stretched away, + with round headlands covered with timber running down in soft curves to + the water. But on our left was the most perfect composition for a picture + in the foreground a great reach of smooth water, except just under the + bank we stood on, where the current was strong and rapid; a little + sparkling beach, and a vast forest rising up from its narrow border, + extending over chain after chain of hills, till they rose to the glacial + region, and then the splendid peaks of the snowy range broke the deep blue + sky line with their grand outlines. + </p> + <p> + All this beauty would have been almost too oppressive, it was on such a + large scale and the solitude was so intense, if it had not been for the + pretty little touch of life and movement afforded by the hut belonging to + the station we were bound for. It was only a rough building, made of slabs + of wood with cob between; but there was a bit of fence and the corner of a + garden and an English grass paddock, which looked about as big as a + pocket-handkerchief from where we stood. A horse or two and a couple of + cows were tethered near, and we could hear the bark of a dog. A more + complete hermitage could not have been desired by Diogenes himself, and + for the first time we felt ashamed of invading the recluse in such a + formidable body, but ungrudging, open-handed hospitality is so universal + in New Zealand that we took courage and began our descent. It really was + like walking down the side of a house, and no one could stir a step + without at least one arm round a tree. I had no gun to carry, so I clung + frantically with both arms to each stem in succession. The steepness of + the cliff was the reason we could take in all the beauty of the scene + before us, for the forest was as thick as ever; but we could see over the + tops of the trees, as the ground dropped sheer down, almost in a straight + line from the plateau we had been travelling on all day. As soon as we + reached the shingle, on which we had to walk for a few hundred yards, we + bethought ourselves of our toilettes; the needle and thread I had brought + did good service in making us more presentable. We discovered, however, + that our faces were a perfect network of fine scratches, some of which <i>would</i> + go on bleeding, in spite of cold-water applications. Our boots were nearly + dry; and my petticoat, short as it was, proved to be the only damp + garment: this was the fault of my first jump into the water. We put the + least scratched and most respectable-looking member of the party in the + van, and followed him, amid much barking of dogs, to the low porch; and + after hearing a cheery "Come in," answering our modest tap at the door, we + trooped in one after the other till the little room was quite full. I + never saw such astonishment on any human face as on that of the poor + master of the house, who could not stir from his chair by the fire, on + account of a bad wound in his leg from an axe. There he sat quite + helpless, a moment ago so solitary, arid now finding himself the centre of + a large, odd-looking crowd of strangers. He was a middle-aged Scotchman, + probably of not a very elevated position in life, and had passed many + years in this lonely spot, and yet he showed himself quite equal to the + occasion. + </p> + <p> + After that first uncontrollable look of amazement he did the honours of + his poor hut with the utmost courtesy and true good-breeding. His only + apology was for being unable to rise from his arm-chair (made out of half + a barrel and an old flour-sack by the way); he made us perfectly welcome, + took it for granted we were hungry—hunger is a very mild word to + express my appetite, for one—called by a loud coo-ee to his man + Sandy, to whom he gave orders that the best in the house should be put + before us, and then began to inquire by what road we had come, what sport + we had, etc., all in the nicest way possible. I never felt more awkward in + my life than when I stooped to enter that low doorway, and yet in a minute + I was quite at my ease again; but of the whole party I was naturally the + one who puzzled him the most. In the first place, I strongly suspect that + he had doubts as to my being anything but a boy in a rather long kilt; and + when this point was explained, he could not understand what a "female," as + he also called me, was doing on a rough hunting expedition. He + particularly inquired more than once if I had come of my own free will, + and could not understand what pleasure I found in walking so far. Indeed + he took it so completely for granted that I must be exhausted, that he + immediately began to make plans for F—— and me to stop there + all night, offering to give up his "bunk" (some slabs of wood made into a + shelf, with a tussock mattress and a blanket), and to sleep himself in his + arm-chair. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, Sandy was preparing our meal. There was an open hearth + with a fine fire, and a big black kettle hanging over it by a hook + fastened somewhere up the chimney. As soon as this boiled he went to a + chest, or rather locker, and brought a double-handful of tea, which he + threw into the kettle; then he took from a cupboard the biggest loaf, of + bread I ever saw—a huge thing, which had been baked in a camp-oven—and + flapped it down on the table with a bang; next he produced a tin milk-pan, + and returned to the cupboard to fetch out by the shank-bone a mutton-ham, + which he placed in the milk-dish: a bottle of capital whisky was + forthcoming from the same place; a little salt on one newspaper, and + brown, or rather <i>black</i>, sugar on another, completed the + arrangements, and we were politely told by Sandy to "wire in,"—digger's + phraseology for an invitation to commence, which we did immediately, as + soon as we could make an arrangement about the four tin plates and three + pannikins. I had one all to myself, but the others managed by twos and + threes to each plate. I never had a better luncheon in my life; everything + was excellent in its way, and we all possessed what we are told is the + best sauce. Large as the supplies were, we left hardly anything, and the + more we devoured the more pleased our host seemed. There were no chairs; + we sat on logs of trees rudely chopped into something like horse-blocks, + but to tired limbs which had known no rest from six hours' walking they + seemed delightful. After we had finished our meal, the gentlemen went + outside to have half a pipe before setting off again; they dared not smoke + whilst we were after the cattle, for fear of their perceiving some unusual + smell; and I remained for ten minutes with Mr——. I found that + he was very fond of reading; his few books were all of a good stamp, but + he was terribly hard-up for anything which he had not read a hundred times + over. I hastily ran over the names of some books of my own, which I + offered to lend him for as long a time as he liked: and we made elaborate + plans for sending them, of my share in which I took a memorandum. He + seemed very grateful at the prospect of having anything new, especially + now that he was likely to be laid up for some weeks, and I intend to make + every effort to give him this great pleasure as soon as possible. + </p> + <p> + We exchanged the most hearty farewells when the time of parting came, and + our host was most earnest in his entreaties to us to remain; but it was a + question of getting out of the bush before dusk, so we could not delay. He + sent Sandy to guide us by a rather longer but easier way than climbing up + the steep cliff to the place where the little clearing at its edge which I + have mentioned had been made; and we dismissed our guide quite happy with + contributions from all the tobacco-pouches, for no one had any money with + him. We found our way back again by the notches on the trees as long as + the light lasted, and when it got too dark to see them easily, the + smouldering trunks guided us, and we reached the clearing from which we + started in perfect safety. Good Mrs. D—— had a bountiful tea + ready; she was much concerned at our having yet some three miles of bad + walking before we could reach the hut on the outskirts of the bush, where + we had left the trap and the ponies. When we got to this point there was + actually another and still more sumptuous meal set out for us, to which, + alas! we were unable to do any justice; and then we found our way to the + station across the flat, down a steep cutting, and through the river-bed, + all in the dark and cold. We had supper as soon as we reached home, + tumbling into bed as early as might be afterwards for such a sleep as you + Londoners don't know anything about. + </p> + <p> + I have only described one expedition to you, and that the most + unsuccessful, as far as killing anything goes; but my hunting instincts + only lead me to the point of reaching the game; when it comes to that, I + always try to save its life, and if this can't be done, I retire to a + distance and stop my ears; indeed, if very much over-excited, I can't help + crying. Consequently, I enjoy myself much more when we don't kill + anything; and, on the other occasions, I never could stop and see even the + shot fired which was to bring a fine cow or a dear little calf down, but + crept away as far as ever I could, and muffled my head in my jacket. The + bushmen liked this part of the performance the best, I believe, and acted + as butchers very readily, taking home a large joint each to their huts, a + welcome change after the eternal pigeons, ka-kas, and wild ducks on which + they live. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XXII: The exceeding joy of "burning." + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, December 1867. I am quite sorry that the season for setting + fire to the long grass, or, as it is technically called, "burning the + run," is fairly over at last. It has been later than usual this year, on + account of the snow having lain such an unusual time on the ground and + kept the grass damp. Generally September is the earliest month in which it + begins, and November the latest for it to end; but this year the shady + side of "Flagpole" was too moist to take fire until December. + </p> + <p> + It is useless to think of setting out on a burning expedition unless there + is a pretty strong nor'-wester blowing; but it must not be <i>too</i> + violent, or the flames will fly over the grass, just scorching it instead + of making "a clean burn." But when F—— pronounces the wind to + be just right, and proposes that we should go to some place where the + grass is of two, or, still better, three years' growth, then I am indeed + happy. I am obliged to be careful not to have on any inflammable + petticoats, even if it is quite a warm day, as they are very dangerous; + the wind will shift suddenly perhaps as, I am in the very act of setting a + tussock a-blaze, and for half a second I find myself in the middle of the + flames. F—— generally gets his beard well singed, and I have + nearly lost my eyelashes more than once. We each provide ourselves with a + good supply of matches, and on the way we look out for the last year's + tall blossom of those horrid prickly bushes called "Spaniards," or a + bundle of flax-sticks, or, better than all, the top of a dead and dry + Ti-ti palm. As soon as we come to the proper spot, and F—— has + ascertained that no sheep are in danger of being made into roast mutton + before their time, we begin to light our line of fire, setting one large + tussock blazing, lighting our impromptu torches at it, and then starting + from this "head-centre," one to the right and the other to the left, + dragging the blazing sticks along the grass. It is a very exciting + amusement, I assure you, and the effect is beautiful, especially as it + grows dusk and the fires are racing up the hills all around us. Every now + and then they meet with a puff of wind, which will perhaps strike a great + wall of fire rushing up-hill as straight as a line, and divide it into two + fiery horns like a crescent; then as the breeze changes again, the tips of + flame will gradually approach each other till they meet, and go on again + in a solid mass of fire. + </p> + <p> + If the weather has been very dry for some time and the wind is high, we + attempt to burn a great flax swamp, perhaps, in some of the flats. This + makes a magnificent bonfire when once it is fairly started, but it is more + difficult to light in the first instance, as you have to collect the dead + flax-leaves and make a little fire of them under the big green bush in + order to coax it to blaze up: but it crackles splendidly; indeed it sounds + as if small explosions were going on sometimes. But another disadvantage + of burning a swamp is, that there are deep holes every yard or two, into + which I always tumble in my excitement, or in getting out of the way of a + flax-bush which has flared up just at the wrong moment, and is threatening + to set me on fire also. These holes are quite full of water in the winter, + but now they contain just enough thin mud to come in over the tops of my + boots; so I do not like stepping into one every moment. We start numerous + wild ducks and swamp-hens, and perhaps a bittern or two, by these + conflagrations. On the whole, I like burning the hill-sides better than + the swamp—you get a more satisfactory blaze with less trouble; but I + sigh over these degenerate days when the grass is kept short and a third + part of a run is burned regularly ever spring, and long for the good old + times of a dozen years ago, when the tussocks were six feet high. What a + blaze they must have made! The immediate results of our expeditions are + vast tracts of perfectly black and barren country, looking desolate and + hideous to a degree hardly to be imagined; but after the first spring + showers a beautiful tender green tint steals over the bare hill-sides, and + by and by they are a mass of delicious young grass, and the especial + favourite feeding-place of the ewes and lambs. The day after a good burn + thousands of sea-gulls flock to the black ground. Where they spring from I + cannot tell, as I never see one at any other time, and their hoarse, + incessant cry is the first sign you have of their arrival. They hover over + the ground, every moment darting down, for some insect. They cannot find + much else but roasted lizards and, grasshoppers, for I have never seen a + caterpillar in New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + In the height of the burning season last month I had Alice S—— + to stay with me for two or three weeks, and to my great delight I found + our tastes about fires agreed exactly, and we both had the same grievance—that + we never were allowed to have half enough of it; so we organized the most + delightful expeditions together. We used to have a quiet old station-horse + saddled, fasten the luncheon-basket to the pommel with materials for a + five o'clock tea, and start off miles away to the back of the run, about + three o'clock in the afternoon, having previously bribed the shepherd to + tell us where the longest grass was to be found—and this he did very + readily, as our going saved him the trouble of a journey thither, and he + was not at all anxious for more work than he could help. We used to ride + alternately, till we got to a deserted shepherd's hut in such a lovely + gully, quite at the far end of the run! Here we tied up dear quiet old + Jack to the remnants of the fence, leaving him at liberty to nibble a + little grass. We never took off the saddle after the first time, for upon + that occasion we found that our united strength was insufficient to girth + it on again properly, and we made our appearance at home in the most + ignominious fashion—Alice leading Jack, and I walking by his side + holding the saddle <i>on</i>. Whenever we attempted to buckle the girths, + this artful old screw swelled himself out with such a long breath that it + was impossible to pull the strap to the proper hole; we could not even get + it tight enough to stay steady, without slipping under him at every step. + However, this is a digression, and I must take you back to the scene of + the fire, and try to make you understand how delightful it was. Alice said + that what made it so fascinating to her was a certain sense of its being + mischief, and a dim feeling that we might get into a scrape. I don't think + I ever stopped to analyse my sensations; fright was the only one I was + conscious of, and yet I liked it so much. When after much consultation—in + which I always deferred to Alice's superior wisdom and experience—we + determined on our line of fire, we set to work vigorously, and the great + thing was to see who could make the finest blaze. I used to feel very + envious if my fire got into a bare patch, where there were more rocks than + tussocks, and languished, whilst Alice's was roaring and rushing up a + hill. We always avoided burning where a grove of the pretty Ti-ti palms + grew; but sometimes there would be one or two on a hill-side growing by + themselves, and then it was most beautiful to see them burn. Even before + the flames reached them their long delicate leaves felt the wind of the + fire and shivered piteously; then the dry old ones at the base of the stem + caught the first spark like tinder, and in a second the whole palm was in + a blaze, making a sort of heart to the furnace, as it had so much more + substance than the grass. For a moment or two the poor palm would bend and + sway, tossing its leaves like fiery plumes in the air, and then it was + reduced to a black stump, and the fire swept on up the hill. + </p> + <p> + The worst of it all was that we never knew when to leave off and come + home. We would pause for half an hour and boil our little kettle, and have + some tea and cake, and then go on again till quite late, getting well + scolded when we reached home at last dead-tired and as black as little + chimney-sweeps. One evening F—— was away on a visit of two + nights to a distant friend, and Alice and I determined on having splendid + burns in his absence; so we made our plans, and everything was favourable, + wind and all. We enjoyed ourselves very much, but if Mr. U—— + had not come out to look for us at ten o'clock at night, and traced us by + our blazing track, we should have had to camp out, for we had no idea + where we were, or that we had wandered so many miles from home; nor had we + any intention of returning just yet. We were very much ashamed of + ourselves upon that occasion, and took care to soften the story + considerably before it reached F——'s ears the next day. + </p> + <p> + However much I may rejoice at nor'-westers in the early spring as aids to + burning the run, I find them a great hindrance to my attempts at a lawn. + Twice have we had the ground carefully dug up and prepared; twice has it + been sown with the best English seed for the purpose, at some considerable + expense; then has come much toil on the part of F—— and Mr. U—— + with a heavy garden-roller; and the end of all the trouble has been that a + strong nor'-wester has blown both seed and soil away, leaving only the + hard un-dug (I wonder whether there is such a word) ground. I could + scarcely believe that it really was all "clean gone," as children say, + until a month or two after the first venture, when I had been straining my + eyes and exercising my imagination all in vain to discover a blade where + it ought to have been, but had remarked in one of my walks an irregular + patch of nice English grass about half a mile from the house down the + flat. I speculated for some time as to how it got there, and at last F—— + was roused from his reverie, and said coolly, "Oh, that's your lawn!" When + this happens twice, it really becomes very aggravating: there are the + croquet things lying idle in the verandah year after year, and, as far as + I can see, they are likely to remain unused for ever. + </p> + <p> + Before I close my letter I must tell you of an adventure I have had with a + wild boar, which was really dangerous. F—— and another + gentleman were riding with me one afternoon in a very lonely gully at the + back of the run, when the dogs (who always accompany us) put up a large, + fierce, black, boar out of some thick flax-bushes. Of course the hunting + instinct, which all young Englishmen possess, was in full force instantly; + and in default of any weapon these two jumped off their horses and picked + up, out of the creek close by, the largest and heaviest stones they could + lift. I disapproved of the chase under the circumstances, but my timid + remonstrances were not even heard. The light riding-whips which each + gentleman carried were hastily given to me to hold, and in addition F—— + thrust an enormous boulder into my lap, saying, "Now, this is to be my + second gun; so keep close to me." Imagine poor me, therefore, with all + three whips tucked under my left arm, whilst with my right I tried to keep + the big stone on my knee, Miss Helen all the time capering about, as she + always does when there is any excitement; and I feeling very unequal to + holding her back from joining in the chase too ardently, for she always + likes to be first everywhere, which is not at all my "sentiments." The + ground was as rough as possible; the creek winding about necessitated a + good jump every few yards; and the grass was so long and thick that it was + difficult to get through it, or to see any blind creeks or other pitfalls. + <i>Mem</i>. to burn this next spring. + </p> + <p> + The pig first turned to bay against a palm-tree, and soon disabled the + dogs. You cannot think what a formidable weapon a wild boar's tusk is—the + least touch of it cuts like a razor; and they are so swift in their jerks + of the head when at bay that in a second they will rip up both dogs and + horses: nor are they the least afraid of attacking a man on foot in + self-defence; but they seldom or ever strike the first blow. As soon as he + had disposed of both the dogs, who lay howling piteously and bleeding on + the ground, the boar made at full speed for the spur of a hill close by. + The pace was too good to last, especially up-hill; so the gentlemen soon + caught him up, and flung their stones at him, but they dared not bring + their valuable horses too near for fear of a wound which probably would + have lamed them for life; and a heavy, rock or stone is a very + unmanageable weapon. I was not therefore at all surprised to see that both + shots missed, or only very slightly grazed the pig; but what I confess to + being perfectly unprepared for was the boar charging violently down-hill + on poor unoffending me, with his head on one side ready for the fatal + backward jerk, champing and foaming as he came, with what Mr. Weller would + call his "vicked old eye" twinkling with rage. Helen could not realize the + situation at all. I tried to turn her, and so get out of the infuriated + brute's way; but no, she would press on to meet him and join the other + horses at the top of the hill. I had very little control over her, for I + was so laden with whips and stones that my hands were useless for the + reins. I knew I was in great danger, but at the moment I could only think + of my poor pretty mare lamed for life, or even perhaps killed on the spot. + I heard one wild shout of warning from above, and I knew the others were + galloping to my rescue; but in certainly less than half a minute from the + time the boar turned, he had reached me. I slipped the reins over my left + elbow, so as to leave my hands free, took my whip in my teeth (I had to + drop the others), and lifting the heavy stone with both my hands waited a + second till the boar was near enough, leaning well over on the right-hand + side of the saddle so as to see what he did. He made for poor Helen's near + fore-leg with his head well down, and I could hear his teeth gnashing. + Just as he touched her with a prick from his tusk like a stiletto and + before he could jerk his head back so as to rip the leg up, I flung my + small rock with all the strength I possessed crash on his head: but I + could not take a good aim; for the moment Helen felt the stab, she reared + straight up on her hind-legs, and as we were going up-hill, I had some + trouble to keep myself from slipping off over her tail. However, my rock + took some effect, for the pig was so stunned that he dropped on his knees, + and before he could recover himself Helen had turned round, still on her + hind-legs, as on a pivot, and was plunging and jumping madly down the + hill. I could not get back properly into my saddle, nor could I arrange + the reins; so I had to stick on anyhow. It was not a case of fine riding + at all; I merely clung like a monkey, and F——, who was coming + as fast as he could to me, said he expected to see me on the ground every + moment; but, however, I did not come off upon that occasion. Helen was + nearly beside herself with terror. I tried to pat her neck and soothe her, + but the moment she felt my hand she bounded as if I had struck her, and + shivered so much that I thought she must be injured; so the moment F—— + could get near her I begged him to look at her fetlock. He led her down to + the creek, and washed the place, and examined it carefully, pronouncing, + to my great joy, that the tusk had hardly gone in at all—in fact had + merely pricked her—and that she was not in the least hurt. I could + hardly get the gentlemen to go to the assistance of the poor dogs, one of + which was very much hurt. Both F—— and Mr. B—— + evidently thought I must have been "kilt intirely," for my situation + looked so critical at one moment that they could scarcely be persuaded + that neither Helen nor I were in the least hurt. I coaxed F—— + that evening to write me a doggerel version of the story for the little + boys, which I send you to show them:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + St. Anne and the pig. + You've heard of St. George and the dragon, + Or seen them; and what can be finer, + In silver or gold on a flagon, + With Garrard or Hancock designer? + + Though we know very little about him + (Saints mostly are shrouded in mystery), + Britannia can't well do without him, + He sets off her shillings and history. + + And from truth let such tales be defended, + Bards at least should bestow them their blessing, + As a rich sort of jewel suspended + On History when she's done dressing. + + Some would have her downstairs to the present, + In plain facts fresh from critical mangle; + But let the nymph make herself pleasant, + Here a bracelet, and there with a bangle + + Such as Bold Robin Hood or Red Riding, + Who peasant and prince have delighted, + Despite of all social dividing, + And the times of their childhood united. + + Shall New Zealand have never a fable, + A rhyme to be sung by the nurses, + A romance of a famous Round Table, + A "Death of Cock Robin" in verses? + + Or shall not a scribe be found gracious + With pen and with parchment, inditing + And setting a-sail down the spacious + Deep day stream some suitable writing; + + Some action, some name so heroic + That its sound shall be death to her foemen, + And make her militia as stoic + As St. George made the Cressy crossbowmen; + + A royal device for her banners, + A reverse for her coinage as splendid, + An example of primitive manners + When all their simplicity's ended? + + Here it is, ye isles Antipodean! + Leave Britain her great Cappadocian; + I'll chant you a latter-day paean, + And sing you a saint for devotion, + + Who on horseback slew also a monster, + Though armed with no sharp lance to stab it, + Though no helmet or hauberk ensconced her, + But only a hat and a habit. + + This dame, for her bravery sainted, + Set up for all times' adoration, + With her picture in poetry painted, + Was a lady who lived on a station. + + Her days—to proceed with the story + In duties domestic dividing, + But, or else she had never won glory, + She now and then went out a-riding. + It chanced, with two knights at her stirrup, + She swept o'er the grass of the valleys, + Heard the brooks run; and heard the birds chirrup, + When a boar from the flax-bushes sallies. + + The cavaliers leaped from their horses; + As for weapons, that day neither bore them; + So they chose from the swift watercourses + Heavy boulders, and held them before them. + + They gave one as well to the lady: + She took it, and placed it undaunted + On the pommel, and balanced it steady, + While they searched where the animal haunted. + + A bowshot beyond her were riding + The knights, each alert with his missile, + But in doubt where the pig went a-hiding, + For they had not kept sight of his bristle. + + When—the tale needs but little enlarging + One turned round by chance on his courser; + To his horror, the monster was charging + At the lady, as if to unhorse her. + + But his fears for her safety were idle, + No heart of a hero beat stouter: + She poised the stone, gathered her bridle— + A halo, 'tis said, shone about her. + + With his jaws all extended and horrid, + Fierce and foaming, the brute leapt to gore her, + When she dropped the rock full on his forehead, + And lo! he fell dying before her. + + There he lay, bristling, tusky, and savage; + Such a mouth, as was long ago written; + Made Calydon lonely with ravage, + By such teeth young Adonis was bitten. + + Then praise to our new Atalanta, + Of the chase and of song spoils be brought her, + Whose skill and whose strength did not want a + Meleager to finish the slaughter. + + She is sung, and New Zealand shall take her, + Thrice blest to possess such a matron, + And give thanks to its first ballad-maker, + Who found it a saint for a patron. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XXIII: Concerning a great flood. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, February 1868. Since I last wrote to you we have been nearly + washed away, by all the creeks and rivers in the country overflowing their + banks! Christchurch particularly was in great danger from the chance of + the Waimakiriri returning to its old channel, in which case it would sweep + away the town. For several hours half the streets were under water, the + people going about in boats, and the Avon was spread out like a lake over + its banks for miles. The weather had been unusually sultry for some weeks, + and during the last five days the heat had been far greater, even in the + hills, than anyone could remember. It is often very hot indeed during the + mid-day hours in summer, but a hot night is almost unknown; and, at the + elevation we live, there are few evenings in the year when a wood-fire is + not acceptable after sunset; as for a blanket at night, that is seldom + left off even in the plains, and is certainly necessary in the hills. + Every one was anxiously looking for rain, as the grass was getting very + dry and the creeks low, and people were beginning to talk of an Australian + summer and to prophesy dismal things of a drought. On a Sunday night about + eleven o'clock we were all sauntering about out of doors, finding it too + hot to remain in the verandah; it was useless to think of going to bed; + and F—— and Mr. U—— agreed that some great change + in the weather was near. There was a strange stillness and oppression in + the air; the very animals had not gone to sleep, but all seemed as + restless and wakeful as we were. I remember we discussed the probability + of a severe earthquake, for the recent wave at St. Thomas's was in + everybody's mind. F—— and I had spent a few days in + Christchurch the week before. There was a regular low-fever epidemic + there, and, he had returned to the station feeling very unwell; but in + this country illness is so rare that one almost forgets that such a thing + exists, and we both attributed his seediness to the extraordinary heat. + </p> + <p> + When we were out of doors that Sunday evening, we noticed immense banks + and masses of clouds, but they were not in the quarter from whence our + usual heavy rain comes; and besides, in New Zealand clouds are more + frequently a sign of high wind than of rain. However, about midnight F—— + felt so ill that he went in to bed, and we had scarcely got under shelter + when, after a very few premonitory drops, the rain came down literally in + sheets. Almost from the first F—— spoke of the peculiar and + different sound on the roof, but as he had a great deal of fever that + night, I was too anxious to notice anything but the welcome fact that the + rain had come at last, and too glad to hear it to be critical about the + sound it made in falling. I came out to breakfast alone, leaving F—— + still ill, but the fever going off. The atmosphere was much lightened, but + the rain seemed like a solid wall of water falling fast and furiously; the + noise on the wooden roof was so great that we had to shout to each other + to make ourselves heard; and when I looked out I was astonished to see the + dimensions to which the ponds had. swollen. Down all the hill-sides new + creeks and waterfalls had sprung into existence during the night. As soon + as I had taken F—— his tea and settled down comfortably to + breakfast, I noticed that instead of Mr. U—— looking the + picture of bright good-humour, he wore a troubled and anxious countenance. + I immediately inquired if he had been out of doors that morning? Yes, he + had been to look at the horses in the stable. Well, I did not feel much + interest in them, for they were big enough to take care of themselves: so + I proceeded to ask if he had chanced to see anything of my fifty young + ducks or my numerous broods of chickens. Upon this question Mr. U—— + looked still more unhappy and tried to turn the conversation, but my + suspicions were aroused and I persisted; so at last he broke to me, with + much precaution, that I was absolutely without a duckling or a chicken in + the world! They had been drowned in the night, and nothing was to be seen + but countless draggled little corpses, what Mr. Mantilini called "moist + unpleasant bodies," floating on the pond or whirling in the eddies of the + creek. That was not even the worst. Every one of my sitting hens was + drowned also, their nests washed away; so were the half-dozen beautiful + ducks, with some twelve or fourteen eggs under each. I felt angry with the + ducks, and thought they might have at any rate saved their own lives; but + nothing could alter the melancholy returns of the missing and dead. My + poultry-yard was, for all practical purposes, annihilated, just as it was + at its greatest perfection and the pride and joy of my heart. All that day + the rain descended steadily in torrents; there was not the slightest break + or variation in the downpour: it was as heavy as that of the Jamaica <i>seasons</i> + of May and October. F——'s fever left him at the end of twelve + hours, and he got up and came into the drawing-room; his first glance out + of the window, which commanded a view of the flat for two or three miles, + showed him how much the waters had risen since midnight; and he said that + in all the years he had known those particular creeks he had never seen + them so high: still I thought nothing of it. There was no cessation in the + rain for exactly twenty-four hours; but at midnight on Monday, just as + poor F—— was getting another attack of fever, it changed into + heavy, broken showers, with little pauses of fine drizzle between, and by + morning it showed signs of clearing, but continued at intervals till + midday. The effect was extraordinary, considering the comparatively short + time the real downpour had lasted. The whole flat was under water, the + creeks were flooded beyond their banks for half a mile or so on each side, + and the river Selwyn, which ran under some hills, bounding our view, was + spread out, forming an enormous lake. A very conspicuous object on these + opposite hills, which are between three and four miles distant, was a bold + cliff known by the name of the "White Rocks," and serving as a landmark to + all the countryside: we could hardly believe our eyes when we missed the + most prominent of these and could see only a great bare rent in the + mountain. The house was quite surrounded by water and stood on a small + island; it was impossible even to wade for more than a few yards beyond + the dry ground, for the water became quite deep and the current was + running fast. F——'s fever lasted its twelve hours; but I began + to be fidgety at the state of prostration it left him in, and when Tuesday + night brought a third and sharper attack, I determined to make him go to + town and see a doctor during his next interval of freedom from it. + </p> + <p> + Wednesday morning was bright and sunny, but the waters had not much + diminished: however, we knew every hour must lessen them, and I only + waited for F——'s paroxysm of fever to subside about mid-day to + send him off to Christchurch. I had exhausted my simple remedies, + consisting of a spoonful of sweet spirits of nitre and a little weak + brandy and water and did not think it right to let things go on in this + way without advice: he was so weak he could hardly mount his horse; indeed + he had to be fairly lifted on the old quiet station hack I have before + mentioned with such deep affection, dear old Jack. It was impossible for + him to go alone; so the ever-kind and considerate Mr. U—— + offered to accompany him. This was the greatest comfort to me, though I + and my two maids would be left all alone during their absence: however, + that was much better than poor F—— going by himself in his + weak state. Six hours of sunshine had greatly abated the floods, and as + far as we could see the water was quite shallow now where it had + overflowed. I saw them set off therefore with a good hope of their + accomplishing the journey safely. Judge of my astonishment and horror + when, on going to see what the dogs were barking at, about two hours + later, I beheld F—— and Mr. U—— at the garden + gate, dripping wet up to their shoulders, but laughing very much. Of + course I immediately thought of F——'s fever, and made him come + in and change; and have some hot tea directly; but he would not go to bed + as I suggested, declaring that the shock of his unexpected cold bath, and + the excitement of a swim for his life, had done him all the good in the + world; and I may tell you at once; that it had completely cured him: he + ate well that evening, slept well, and had no return of his fever, + regaining his strength completely in a few days. So much for kill-or-cure + remedies! + </p> + <p> + It seems that as soon as they neared the first creek, with very high + banks, about a mile from the house, the water came up to the horses' + fetlocks, then to their knees, but still it was impossible to tell exactly + where the creek began, or rather, where its bank ended; they went very + cautiously, steering as well as they could for where they imagined the + cutting in the steep bank to be; but I suppose they did not hit it off + exactly, for suddenly they went plump into deep water and found themselves + whirling along like straws down a tremendous current. Jack was, however, + quite equal to the occasion; he never allows himself to be flurried or put + out by anything, and has, I imagine, been in nearly every difficulty + incident to New Zealand travelling. Instead, therefore, of losing his head + as Helen did (Mr. U—— was riding her), and striking out wildly + with her forelegs to the great danger of the other horse, Jack took it all + as a matter of course, and set himself to swim steadily down the stream, + avoiding the eddies as much as possible: he knew every yard of the bank, + and did not therefore waste his strength by trying to land in impossible + places, but kept a watchful eye for the easiest spot. F—— knew + the old horse so well that he let him have his head and guide himself, + only trying to avoid Helen's forelegs, which were often unpleasantly near; + his only fear was lest they should have to go so far before a landing was + possible that poor old Jack's strength might not hold out, for there is + nothing so fatiguing to a horse as swimming in a strong current with a + rider on his back, especially a heavy man. They were swept down for a long + distance, though it was impossible to guess exactly how far they had gone, + and F—— was getting very uneasy about a certain wire fence + which had been carried across the creek; they were rapidly approaching it, + and the danger was that the horses might suddenly find themselves + entangled in it, in which case the riders would very likely have been + drowned. F—— called to Mr. U——to get his feet free + from the stirrups and loosened his own; but he told me he was afraid lest + Mr. U—— should not hear him above the roaring of the water, + and so perhaps be dragged under water when the fence was reached. However, + Jack, knew all about it, and was not going to be drowned ignominiously in + a creek which would not have wet his hoofs to cross three days before. A + few yards from the fence he made one rush and a bound towards what seemed + only a clump of Tohi bushes, but they broke the force of the current and + gave him the chance he wanted, and he struggled up the high crumbling bank + more like a cat than a steady old screw. Helen would not be left behind, + and, with a good spur from Mr. U——, she followed Jack's + example, and they stood dripping and shivering in shallow water. Both the + horses were so <i>done</i> that F—— and Mr. U—— + had to jump off instantly and loose the girths, turning them with their + nostrils to the wind. It was a very narrow escape, and the disagreeable + part of it was that they had scrambled out on the wrong side of the creek + and had to recross it to get home: however, they rode on to the next + stream, which looked so much more swollen and angry, that they gave up the + idea of going on to Christchurch that night, especially as they were wet + through to their chins, for both horses swam very low in the water, with + only their heads to be seen above it. + </p> + <p> + The next thing to be considered was how to get back to the house. It never + would do to risk taking the horses into danger again when they were so + exhausted; so they rode round by the homestead, crossed the creek higher + up, where it was much wider but comparatively shallow (if anything could + be called shallow just now), and came home over the hills. Good old Jack + had an extra feed of oats that evening, a reward to which he is by no + means insensible; and indeed it probably is the only one he cares for. + </p> + <p> + The Fates had determined, apparently, that I also should come in for my + share of watery adventures, for we had an engagement of rather long + standing to ride across the hills, and visit a friend's station about + twelve miles distant, and the day we had promised to go was rather more + than a week after F——'s attempted journey. In the meantime, + the waters had of course gone down considerably, and there was quite an + excitement in riding and walking about our own run, and seeing the changes + the flood had made, and the mischief it had done to the fencing;—this + was in process of being repaired. We lost very few sheep; they were all up + at the tops of the high hills, their favourite summer pasture. + </p> + <p> + I think I have told you that between us and Christchurch there is but one + river, a most peaceable and orderly stream, a perfect pattern to the + eccentric New Zealand rivers, which are so changeable and restless. Upon + this occasion, however, the Selwyn behaved quite as badly as any of its + fellows; it was not only flooded for miles, carrying away quantities of + fencing near its banks, and drowning confiding sheep suddenly, but at one + spot about four miles from us, just under the White Rocks, it came down + suddenly, like what Miss Ingelow calls "a mighty eygre," and deserted its + old timeworn bed for two new ones: and the worst of the story is that it + has taken a fancy to our road, swept away a good deal of it, breaking a + course for itself in quite a different place; so now, instead of one nice, + wide, generally shallow river to cross, about which there never has been + an evil report, we have two horrid mountain torrents of which we know + nothing: no one has been in yet to try their depth, or to find out the + best place at which to ford them, and it unfortunately happened that F—— + and I were the pioneers. When we came to the first new channel, F——with + much care picked out what seemed the best place, and though it was a most + disagreeable bit of water to go through, still we managed it all right; + but when we came to the next curve, it was far worse. Here the river took + a sharp turn, and came tearing round a corner, the colour and consistency + of pea-soup, and making such a noise we could hardly hear ourselves speak + standing close together on the bank; once in the stream, of course it + would be hopeless to try to catch a word. I am ashamed to say that my + fixed idea was to turn back, and this I proposed without hesitation; but F—— + has the greatest dislike to retracing his steps, and is disagreeably like + Excelsior in this respect; so he merely looked astonished at my want of + spirit, and proceeded very calmly to give me my directions, and the more + he impressed the necessity of coolness and caution upon me, the more I + quaked. He was to go over first, alone; I was to follow, having first + tucked my habit well up under my arm, and taken care that I was quite free + so as not to be entangled in any way <i>if</i> Helen should be swept away, + or if a boulder should come down with the stream, and knock her feet from + under her: I was not to be at all frightened (!), and I was to keep my + eyes fixed on him, and guide Helen's head exactly by the motion of his + hand. He plunged into the water as soon as he had issued these encouraging + directions; I saw him floundering in and out of several deep holes, and + presently he got safe to land, dripping wet; then he dismounted, tied Leo + to a flax bush, and took off his coat and big riding-boots,—I + thought, very naturally to dry them, but I should have been still more + alarmed, if possible, had I known that this was to prepare to be ready to + swim to my help in case of danger. As it was, my only hope was that Helen + might not like the look of the angry flood, and would refuse to go in;—how + I should have blessed her for such obstinacy!—but no, she was eager + to rejoin her stable companion, and plunged in without hesitation. I found + it much worse even than I dreaded; the water felt so resistless, as if it + <i>must</i> sweep me right out of the saddle; I should like to have + clutched Helen's mane or anything to have kept me on, but both hands were + wanted to hold the reins quite low down, one on each side of her withers, + so as to guide her exactly according to F——'s pilot-hand on + the opposite bank: steering implicitly by this I escaped the holes and + rocks which he had come against, and got over safely, but trembling, and + with chattering teeth. F——said, quite disdainfully, "You don't + mean to say you're really frightened?" So then I scolded him, rather + incoherently, and demanded to be praised for coming at all! I wrung my + habit out as well as I could, F—— poured the water out of his + boots, and we proceeded, first over a plain, and then to climb a high + steep hill. I wonder if you have any idea how disagreeable and dangerous + it is to go zigzag up the side of a mountain after such rain as we have + had. The soil was just like soap, nothing for the horses' hoofs to take + hold of, not a pebble or a tuft of grass; all had been washed away, and + only the slippery clay remained. As usual, F—— went first and + I followed, taking care not to keep below him, lest he and Leo should come + "slithering" (that is the only word for it) down upon me; but, alas, it + was Helen and I who slithered! Poor dear, all her legs seemed to fly from + under her at once, and she came down on her side and on my legs. I felt + the leaping-crutch snap, and found my left shoulder against the ground; I + let go the reins, and thought we had better part company, but found I + could not move for her weight; <i>she</i> struggled to get up, and we both + slipped down, down—down: there was no reason why we should not have + gone on to the bottom of the hill, when a friendly tussock afforded her an + instant's resting-place for her hind hoofs, and she scrambled to her feet + like a cat. I found myself still on her back; so I picked up my reins and + tried to pretend that I had never thought of getting off. F—— + dared not stir from his "bad eminence;" so Helen and I wended our slippery + way up to him, and in answer to his horrified "Where is your habit?" I + found I was torn to ribbons; in fact, my skirt was little more than a + kilt, and a very short one too! What was to be done? We were only three or + four miles from our destination, so we pushed on, and at the last I + lingered behind, and made F—— go first and borrow a cloak or + shawl. You would have laughed if you had heard my pathetic adjurations to + him to be sure to bring it by himself. I was so afraid that some one else + would politely insist on accompanying him. But it was all right, though + even with this assistance it was very difficult to arrange matters so as + to be tolerably respectable. My hostess was shocked at my tattered, wet + plight, and dried me, and dressed me up till I was quite smart, and then + we had a very pleasant day, and, best of all, came home by a different + road, so as to avoid the slippery descent and the rivers in the dark; but + I still mourn for my habit!-it was my last. Three have disappeared, owing + to unfortunate accidents, this year, and now I am reduced to what can be + contrived out of a linsey dress. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XXIV: My only fall from horseback. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, June 1868. The autumn has passed away so quickly that I can + hardly believe the winter has reached us so soon—the last winter we + shall spend in New Zealand. I should like to have been able to boast, on + my return to England, that in three years' constant riding, on all sorts + of horses, good, bad, and indifferent, and over abominable roads, I had + escaped a fall; but not only have I had a very severe one, but it was from + my own favourite Helen, which is very trying to reflect upon. However, it + was not in the least her fault, or mine either; so she and I are still + perfectly good friends. + </p> + <p> + We had been spending two days up at Lake Coleridge, as a sort of farewell + visit, and on our way down again to Rockwood, a distance of about twenty + miles, we stopped to lunch, by invitation, at a station midway. There was + so much to be seen at this place that we loitered much longer than was + prudent in the short days, and by the time we had thoroughly inspected a + beautiful new wool-shed with all the latest improvements (from which F—— + could hardly tear himself away), the fish-ponds elaborately arranged for + the reception of the young trout expected from Tasmania and the charming + garden well sheltered by a grove of large wattle-trees, it was growing + dusk, and we prepared to push on as fast as possible; for nothing is more + disagreeable than being caught in the dark on a New Zealand track, with + its creeks and swamps and wire fences: the last are the most dangerous + obstacles, if you get off the track, or if the gate through the fence has + been placed for convenience a few yards on one side of it; the horses + cannot see the slender wires in the dark, and so fall over them, injuring + themselves and their riders most seriously sometimes. Having still about + eight miles to go, we were galloping gaily over a wide open plain, our + only anxiety arising from the fast failing daylight; but the horses were + still quite fresh, and, as the French idiom would have it, devoured the + ground at a fine pace; when, in an instant, the ground appeared to rise up + to meet me, and I found myself dragged along on the extreme point of my + right shoulder, still grasping both reins and whip. I was almost under the + feet of the other horse, and I saw Helen's heels describing frantic + circles in the air. F—— shouted to me to let go, which it had + never occurred to me to do previously. I did so, and jumped up instantly, + feeling quite unhurt, and rather relieved to find that a fall was not so + dreadful after all. I then saw the cause of the accident: the handle of a + little travelling-bag which had been hung over the pommel of my saddle had + slipped over the slight projection, and as it was still further secured by + a strap through the girth, it was dangling under poor Helen, whose frantic + bounds and leaps only increased the liveliness of her tormentor. I never + saw such bucks and jumps high into the air as she performed receiving a + severe blow from the bag at each; it was impossible to help laughing, + though I did not see how it was all to end. She would not allow F—— + to approach her, and was perfectly mad with terror. At last the girths + gave way, and the saddle came off, with the bag still fastened to it; the + moment she found herself free, she trotted up to me in the most engaging + manner, and stood rubbing her nose against my arm, though she was still + trembling all over, and covered with foam. + </p> + <p> + By this time I had made the discovery that I could not raise my right arm; + but still a careful investigation did not tell me it was broken, for it + gave me no pain to touch anywhere, except a very little just on the point + of the shoulder. F—— now went to pick up the saddle and the + reins; it was difficult to find these latter in the fast gathering + darkness and I held his horse for him. To my horror I found after standing + for a moment or two, that I was going to faint; I could not utter a word; + I knew that if my fast-relaxing fingers let go their hold of the bridle + the horse would set off towards home at a gallop, Helen would assuredly + follow him, and we should be left eight miles from the nearest shelter to + find our way to it, with a deep creek to cross. F—— was fifty + yards off, with his back to me, searching for some indispensable buckle; + so there was no help to be got from him at the moment. I exerted every + atom of my remaining strength to slip the bridle over my left arm, which I + pressed against my waist; then I sat down as quietly as I could, not to + alarm the horse, bent forward so as to keep my left arm under me lest the + bridle should slip off, and fainted away in great peace and comfort. The + cold was becoming so intense that it soon revived me, and F——, + suspecting something was wrong, came to relieve me of the care of the + horse, and contrived to get the girths repaired with the ever-ready flax, + and the bag secured in a very short time. But when it came to mounting + again, that was not so easy: every time I tried to spring, something + jarred horribly in the socket where the arm fits into the shoulder, and + the pain was so great that I had to lie down on the ground. It was now + nearly seven o'clock, quite dark, and freezing hard; we were most anxious + to get on, and yet what was to be done? I could not mount, apparently, and + there was no stone or bank to stand on and get up by for an immense way. + At last F—— put me up by sheer strength. I found myself so + deadly sick and faint when I was fairly in the saddle that it was some + time before I could allow Helen to move; and never shall I forget the + torture of her first step, for my shoulder was now stiffening in a most + unpleasant way. F—— said it would be easier to canter; so we + set off at full speed, and the cold air against my face kept me from + fainting as we went along, though I fully expected to fall off every + moment; if Helen had shied, or stumbled, or even capered a little, I + should have been on the ground again. In my torture and despair, I + proposed to be left behind, and for F—— to ride on and get + help; but he would not hear of this, declaring that I should die of cold + before he could get back with a cart, and that it was very doubtful if he + should find me again on the vast plain, with nothing to guide him, and in + the midnight darkness. Whenever we came to a little creek which we were + obliged to jump, Helen's safe arrival on the opposite bank was announced + by a loud yell from me, caused by agony hardly to be described. The cold + appeared to get <i>into</i> the broken joint, and make it so much worse. + </p> + <p> + At last we reached Rockwood, and never was its friendly shelter more + welcome. Everything that could be thought of was done to alleviate my + sufferings; but I resembled Punch with his head on one side, for I had a + well-defined and gigantic hump on my back, and my shoulder was swollen up + to my ear. The habit-body was unpicked, as it was impossible to get it off + any other way. Of course, the night was one of great agony; but I thought + often, as I paced the room, how much better it was to have a blazing fire + to cheer me up, and some delicious tea to put my lips to "when so + dispoged" (like the immortal Mrs. Gamp), than to be lying on the open + plain in a hard frost, wondering when F—— and his cart would + arrive. + </p> + <p> + The next day we returned home, much against our host's wish; and I walked + all the way, some six miles of mountain road, for I could not bear the + idea of riding. F—— led the horses, and we arrived quite + safely. His first idea was to take me down to a doctor, but the motion of + driving was greater agony than riding, as the road was rough; so after the + first mile, I entreated to be taken back, and we turned the horses' heads + towards home again; and when we reached it, I got out all my little books + on surgery, medicine, etc., and from them made out how to set my shoulder + in some sort of fashion, with F——'s help. Of course it is + still useless to me, but I think it is mending itself; and after a week I + could do everything with my left hand, even to writing, after a fashion. + The only thing I could <i>not</i> do was to arrange my hair, or even to + brush it; and though F—— was "willing," he was so exceedingly + awkward, that at last, after going through great anguish and having it + pulled out by handfuls, I got him to cut it off, and it is now cropped + like a small boy's. He cuts up my dinner, etc. for me; but it is a very + trying process, and I don't wonder at children often leaving the nasty + cold mess half eaten. I shall be very glad to be able to use my own knife + again. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter XXV: How We lost our horses and had to walk home. + </h2> + <p> + Broomielaw, November 1868. This will actually be my last letter from the + Malvern Hills; and, in spite of the joy I feel at the hope of seeing all + my beloved ones in England, I am <i>so</i> sorry to leave my dear little + happy valley. We have done nothing but pay farewell visits lately; and I + turn for a final look at each station or cottage as we ride away with a + great tightness at my heart, and moisture in my eyes, to think I shall + never see them again. You must not be jealous at the lingering regrets I + feel, for unless you had been with me here you can never understand how + kind and friendly all our neighbours, high and low, have been to us from + the very first, or how dearly I have grown to love them. I don't at all + know how I am to say good-bye to my dear Mrs. M——, the + shepherd's wife I told you of. I believe she will miss me more than any + one; and I cannot bear to think of her left to pass her days without the + help of books and papers, which I was always so glad to lend her. I often + walk down the valley to take tea with her of an afternoon and to say + good-bye, but I have not said it yet. I wish you could see her parlour as + I saw it yesterday afternoon—her books in a bookcase of her + husband's manufacture, very nice and pretty; her spinning-wheel in the + comer; the large "beau-pot" of flowers in the window; and such a tea on + the table!—cream like clots of gold, scones, oat-cakes, all sorts of + delicacies! She herself is quite charming—one of Nature's ladies. I + have given her, as a parting gift, a couple of Scotch views framed; and + they hang on the wall as a memento of places equally dear to both of us. + </p> + <p> + It is a sorrow to me to leave the horses and dogs and my pet calves and + poultry; even the trees and creepers I go round to look at, with the + melancholy feeling of other owners not loving them so much as I have done. + However, I must not make my last letter too dismal, or you will feel that + I am not glad enough to return to you all. My only apology is, I have been + so <i>very</i> happy here. + </p> + <p> + Now for our latest adventure, as absurd as any, in its way. Have I ever + told you that our post-office is ten miles off, with an atrocious road + between us and it? I know you will throw down this letter and feel rather + disgusted with me for being sorry to leave such a place, but we don't mind + trifles here. Lately, since our own establishment has been broken up, we + have been living in great discomfort; and among other things we generally, + if not always, have to go for our own letters twice a week. Upon this + occasion F—— and I had ridden together up the gorge of the + Selwyn rather late in the afternoon, to avoid the extreme heat of the day. + When we reached the shepherd's hut I have before mentioned, and which is + now deserted, I proposed to F—— to go on over the hills alone + and leave me there, as I was very hot and tired, and he could travel much + quicker without me—for I am ashamed to say that I still object to + riding fast up and down slippery hills. I cannot get rid of the idea that + I shall break my neck if I attempt it, whereas F—— goes on + over the worst road just as if it was perfectly level. Excuse this + digression, for it is a relief to me to be a little spiteful about his + pace whenever I have an opportunity, and it will probably be my last + chance of expressing my entire disapproval of it. + </p> + <p> + Helen was tied up to a post, and F——, after helping me to + dismount, set off at a canter over the adjoining swamp on his way to cross + the chain of hills between the river and the flat where the great + coach-road to the West Coast runs. I had brought the ingredients for my + five o'clock tea (without which I am always a lost and miserable + creature), and I amused myself, during my solitude, by picking up dry bits + of scrub for my fire; but I had to go down the river-bank for some + driftwood to make the old kettle, belonging to the hut, boil. I could not + help wondering how any human being could endure such solitude for years, + as the occupant of a hut like this is necessarily condemned to. In itself + it was as snug and comfortable as possible, with a little paddock for the + shepherd's horse, an acre or so of garden, now overgrown with self-sown + potatoes, peas, strawberry, raspberry, and gooseberry plants, the little + thatched fowl-house near, and the dog-kennels; all giving it a thoroughly + home-like look. The hoarse roar of the river over its rocky bed was the + only sound; now and then a flock of wild ducks would come flying down to + their roosting-place or nests among the Tohi grass; and as the evening + closed in the melancholy cry of the bittern and the weka's loud call broke + the stillness, but only to make it appear more profound. On each side of + the ravine in which the hut stands rise lofty hills so steeply from the + water's edge that in places we can find no footing for our horses, and + have to ride in the river. At this time of the year the sheep are all upon + the hills; so you do not hear even a bleat: but in winter, they come down + to the sunny, sheltered flats. + </p> + <p> + It appeared to me as if I was alone there for hours, though it really was + less than one hour, when F—— returned with a large bundle of + letters and papers tied to his saddle-bow. Tea was quite ready now; so he + tied up his horse next Helen, and we had tea and looked at our letters. + One of the first I opened told me that some friends from Christchurch, + whom I expected to pay us a visit soon, were on their way up that very + day, and in fact might be expected to arrive just about that hour. I was + filled with blank dismay, for not only did the party consist of three + grown-up people—nay, four—but three little children. I had + made elaborate plans in my head as to how and where they should all be + stowed away for a fortnight, but had naturally deferred till the last + moment to carry out my arrangements, for they entailed giving up our own + bedroom, and "camping" in the dining-room, besides wonderful substitutes + of big packing-cases for cribs, etc. etc. But, alas! here we were eight + miles from home and nothing done, not even any extra food ordered or + prepared. The obvious thing was to mount our horses and return as fast as + ever we could, and we hastened out of the hut to the spot where we had + left them both securely tied to the only available post, through which + unfortunately five wires ran, as it was one of the "standards" of a fence + which extended for miles. Just as we came out of the hut in a great + bustle, our evil destiny induced F——'s horse to rub its nose + against the top wire of the fence; and in this process it caught the bar + of its snaffle-bit, and immediately pulled back: this made all the wires + jingle. Helen instantly took alarm, and pulled back too: fresh and + increased vibration, extending up the hill-side and echoing back an + appalling sound, was the result of this movement. In an instant there were + both the horses pulling with all their force against the fence, terrified + to death; and no wonder, for the more they pulled the more the wires + jingled. F—— did all he could to soothe them with + blandishments. I tried to coax Helen, but the nearer we drew the more + frantically they backed and plunged, and the more the noise increased—till + it was a case of "one struggle more and I am free;" and leaving their + bridles still fastened to the fatal fence by the reins, we had the + satisfaction of seeing both our horses careering wildly about—first + celebrating their escape from danger by joyous and frantic bounds and + kicks, and then setting off down the gorge of the river as hard as they + could go. I fairly sat down and whimpered a little, not only at the + thought of our eight miles' walk over shingle with a deep river to be + crossed nine times, but at the idea of my poor little guests arriving to + find no supper, no beds, "no nothing." + </p> + <p> + F—— tried to cheer me up, and said the only thing was to get + home as quick as possible; but he did not expect to find that our friends + had arrived, for it had been very hazy over the plains all day, and + probably had rained hard in Christchurch; so he thought they would not + have started on their journey at all. But I refused to accept any comfort + from this idea, and bemoaned myself, entirely on their account, + incessantly. When we came to the first crossing, F—— picked me + up and carried me over dry-shod, and this he did at all the fords; but in + one we very nearly came to grief, for I was tilted like a sack over his + shoulder, and when we were quite in the middle, and the water was very + deep, up to his waist, he kept hoisting my feet higher and higher, quite + forgetting that there was plenty more of me on the other side of his + shoulder; so it ended in my arms getting very wet, which he did not seem + to think mattered at all so long as my feet were dry; whereas I rather + preferred having my feet than my head plunged into a surging, deafening + yellow current. At the entrance of the gorge is a large stockyard, and + near to it, at least a mile or two off, a large mob of horses is generally + to be found feeding. We heard great neighing and galloping about amongst + them as we came out of the gorge; it was much too dark to distinguish + anything, but we guessed that our horses had joined these, and the sounds + we heard were probably those of welcome. But the whole mob set off the + moment we came near, and crossed the river again, entailing a tenth + wetting upon poor F——. I was posted at the entrance of the + gorge, with instructions to shout and otherwise keep them from going up by + the route we had just come; but it was more than an hour before F——could + get round the wary brutes, so as to turn them with their heads towards the + stockyard. Of course, he had to bring up the whole mob. My talents in the + shouting line were not called out upon this occasion, for they all trotted + into the stockyard of their own accord, and I had nothing to do but put up + the slip-rail as fast as I could with only one available arm, for though + it is better, I cannot use the other yet. When F—— came up we + both went into the yard, and could soon make out the two horses which had + their saddles on—that was the only way we could distinguish them in + the dark. It was now nearly eleven o'clock, and though warm enough it was + very cloudy, not a star to be seen. We fastened on the patched up bridles + as well as we could by feeling, and mounted, and rode home, about three + miles more, as fast as we could. When we entered the flat near our own + house, we heard loud and prolonged "coo-ees" from all sides. The servants + had made up their minds that some terrible misfortune had happened to us, + and were setting out to look for us, "coo-eeing" as they came along. F—— + pointed out to me, with a sort of "I-told-you-so" air, that there was no + light in the drawing-room—so it was evident our friends had not + arrived; and when we dismounted I found, to my great joy, that the house + was empty. All our fatigue was forgotten in thankfulness that the poor + travellers had not been exposed to such a cold, comfortless reception as + would have awaited them if they had made their journey that day. I must + tell you, they arrived quite safely the next evening, but very tired, + especially the poor children; however, everything was ready, and the + little boys were particularly pleased with their box beds, greatly + preferring the difficulties of getting in and out of them to their own + pretty little cribs at home. Such are boys all over the world! + </p> + <p> + Next month we leave this for ever, and go down to Christchurch to make our + final arrangements for the long voyage of a hundred days before us. As the + time draws near I realize how strong is the tie which has grown, even in + these few short years, around my heart, connecting it with this lovely + land, and the kind friends I have found in it. F—— feels the + parting more deeply than I do, if possible, though for different reasons; + he has lived so long among these beautiful hills, and is so accustomed to + have before his eyes their grand outlines. He was telling me this the + other day, and has put the same feelings into the following verses, which + I now send you. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A farewell. + The seamen shout once and together, + The anchor breaks up from the ground, + And the ship's head swings to the weather, + To the wind and the sea swings round; + With a clamour the great sail steadies, + In extreme of a storm scarce furled; + Already a short wake eddies, + And a furrow is cleft and curled + To the right and left. + + Float out from the harbour and highland + That hides all the region I know, + Let me look a last time on the island + Well seen from the sea to the snow. + The lines of the ranges I follow, + I travel the hills with my eyes, + For I know where they make a deep hollow, + A valley of grass and the rise + Of streams clearer than glass. + + That haunt is too far for me wingless, + And the hills of it sink out of sight, + Yet my thought were but broken and stringless, + And the daylight of song were but night. + If I could not at will a winged dream let + Lift me and take me and set + Me again by the trees and the streamlet; + These leagues make a wide water, yet + The whole world shall not hide. + + Now my days leave the soft silent byway, + And clothed in a various sort, + In iron or gold, on life's highway + New feet shall succeed, or stop short + Shod hard these maybe, or made splendid, + Fair and many, or evil and few, + But the going of bare feet has ended, + Of naked feet set in the new + Meadow grass sweet and wet. + + I will long for the ways of soft walking, + Grown tired of the dust and the glare, + And mute in the midst of much talking + Will pine for the silences rare; + Streets of peril and speech full of malice + Will recall me the pastures and peace + Which gardened and guarded those valleys + With grasses as high as the knees, + Calm as high as the sky: + + While the island secure in my spirit + At ease on its own ocean rides, + And Memory, a ship sailing near it, + Shall float in with favouring tides, + Shall enter the harbours and land me + To visit the gorges and heights + Whose aspects seemed once to command me, + As queens by their charms command knights + To achievements of arms. + + And as knights have caught sight of queens' faces + Through the dust of the lists and the din, + So, remembering these holiest places + In the days when I lose or I win, + I will yearn to them, all being over, + Triumphant or trampled beneath, + To this beautiful isle like a lover, + To her evergreen brakes for a wreath, + For a tear to her lakes. + + The last of her now is a brightening + Far fire in the forested hills, + The breeze as the night nears is heightening, + The cordage draws tighter and thrills, + Like a horse that is spurred by the rider + The great vessel quivers and quails, + And passes the billows beside her, + The fair wind is strong in her sails, + She is lifted along. + + THE END. +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Station Life in New Zealand, by Lady Barker + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND *** + +***** This file should be named 6104-h.htm or 6104-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/0/6104/ + +Produced by P. 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