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diff --git a/old/60992-h/60992-h.htm b/old/60992-h/60992-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index a527886..0000000 --- a/old/60992-h/60992-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8268 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" -"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> - -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en" xml:lang="en"> - <head> <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> -<title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Letters of Richard Ford. -</title> -<style type="text/css"> - p {margin-top:.2em;text-align:justify;margin-bottom:.2em;text-indent:4%;} - -.c {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - -.cb {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;font-weight:bold;} - -.ditto {margin-left:1em;margin-right:.5em;} - -.indd {padding-left:3em;text-indent:-2em;padding-bottom:0%;} - -.indd2 {padding-left:3em;font-size:90%;padding-top:0%;} - -.fint {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;text-decoration:overline; -margin-top:2em;font-size:80%;} - -.hang {text-indent:-2%;margin-left:2%;} - -.lftspc {margin-left:.25em;} - - ul {list-style-type:none;text-indent:-1em; -margin:.2em auto .2em 5em;} - -.nind {text-indent:0%;} - -.r {text-align:right;margin-right: 5%;} - -.rt {text-align:right;} - -small {font-size: 70%;} - -big {font-size: 130%;} - - h1 {margin-top:5%;text-align:center;clear:both; -font-weight:normal;} - - h2 {margin-top:4%;margin-bottom:2%;text-align:center;clear:both; - font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;} - - h3 {margin:4% auto 2% auto;text-align:center;clear:both;} - - hr {width:90%;margin:2em auto 2em auto;clear:both;color:black;} - - hr.full {width: 60%;margin:2% auto 2% auto;border-top:1px solid black; -padding:.1em;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:none;border-right:none;} - - table {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;border:none;} - -th {padding-top:1em;padding-bottom:.5em;} - - body{margin-left:4%;margin-right:6%;background:#ffffff;color:black;font-family:"Times New Roman", serif;font-size:medium;} - -a:link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - - link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - -a:visited {background-color:#ffffff;color:purple;text-decoration:none;} - -a:hover {background-color:#ffffff;color:#FF0000;text-decoration:underline;} - -.smcap {font-variant:small-caps;font-size:100%;} - - img {border:none;} - -.blockquot {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;} - -.caption {font-weight:normal;} -.caption p{font-size:75%;text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - -.figcenter {margin-top:3%;margin-bottom:3%;clear:both; -margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - @media handheld, print - {.figcenter - {page-break-before: avoid;} - } - -.footnotes {border:dotted 3px gray;margin-top:5%;clear:both;} - -.footnote {width:95%;margin:auto 3% 1% auto;font-size:0.9em;position:relative;} - -.label {position:relative;left:-.5em;top:0;text-align:left;font-size:.8em;} - -.fnanchor {vertical-align:30%;font-size:.8em;} - -div.poetry {text-align:center;} -div.poem {font-size:90%;margin:auto auto;text-indent:0%; -display: inline-block; text-align: left;} -.poem .stanza {margin-top: 1em;margin-bottom:1em;} -.poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - -.pagenum {font-style:normal;position:absolute; -left:95%;font-size:55%;text-align:right;color:gray; -background-color:#ffffff;font-variant:normal;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;text-indent:0em;} -@media print, handheld -{.pagenum - {display: none;} - } - -</style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's The letters of Richard Ford, 1797-1858, by Richard Ford - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The letters of Richard Ford, 1797-1858 - -Author: Richard Ford - -Editor: Rowland E. Prothero - -Release Date: December 22, 2019 [EBook #60992] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LETTERS OF RICHARD FORD *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="[Image of the -book's cover is unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="c">THE LETTERS OF<br /> -RICHARD FORD</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border:3px outset gray;"> -<tr class="c"><td class="smcap"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents</a><br /> -<a href="#INDEX">Index</a><br /> -<a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS">Illustrations</a><br /></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i">{i}</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii">{ii}</a></span> </p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> -<a name="ill_001" id="ill_001"></a> -<a href="images/ill_002_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_002_sml.jpg" width="349" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><i>Richard Ford</i></p> - -<p><i>from a sketch by J. F. Lewis in 1832</i></p> - -<p><i>Emery Walker Ph. Sc.</i></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span></p> - -<h1> -THE LETTERS OF<br /> -RICHARD FORD</h1> - -<p class="c">1797-1858<br /> -<br /> -<br /> -EDITED BY<br /> -<br /> -ROWLAND E. PROTHERO, M.V.O.<br /> -<br /><small> -FORMERLY FELLOW OF ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE, OXFORD<br /> -AUTHOR OF “THE LIFE OF DEAN STANLEY”<br /> -“THE PSALMS IN HUMAN LIFE,” ETC. ETC.<br /></small> -<br /> -<br /> -WITH PORTRAITS AND ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> -<br /> -<br /> -NEW YORK<br /> -E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY<br /> -1905<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span><br /><br /> -<small> -PRINTED BY<br /> -HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD.,<br /> -LONDON AND AYLESBURY,<br /> -ENGLAND<br /></small> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">{v}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Sixty</span> years ago, few men were more widely known in the world of art, -letters, and society than Richard Ford, the author of the <i>Handbook for -Spain</i>. A connoisseur of engravings, an admirable judge of painting, the -interpreter to this country of the genius of Velazquez, he had no rival -as an amateur artist. From his sketches Roberts made many of his best -drawings; some were reproduced by Telbin, others appeared in the -<i>Illustrated London News</i> and the <i>Landscape Annuals</i> of the day, or -supplied illustrations to such books as Byron’s <i>Childe Harold</i> and -Lockhart’s <i>Spanish Ballads</i>. One of the first critics who appreciated -the beauties of the ceramic products of Italy, he formed a fine -collection of Gubbio and Majolica ware, and the works of Giorgio and the -Della Robbias. The contents of his Spanish Library, to which many of the -prizes of the Heber sale found their way, were as rich as they were rare -and curious. His taste was no less varied than sound, and few art -treasures in clay, metal, and marble, were beyond his ken. Nor was his -knowledge of the mysteries of cookery less profound, and Amontillado -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span>sherry and Montanches hams were introduced by him into this country. -Well and widely read, gifted with a wonderful memory and a keen sense of -humour, possessed of an extraordinary faculty for happy, unexpected -turns of expression, full of curious anecdotes and adventures, he was a -delightful talker. Entirely without the jealousy of the professed wit, -he was an equally admirable listener. No man was a more welcome guest in -society, none had more friends or fewer enemies.</p> - -<p>His father, Sir Richard Ford (born 1759, died 1806), a friend of William -Pitt, M.P. for East Grinstead (1789), and for Appleby (1790), at one -time Under-Secretary of State for the Home Department, became Chief -Police Magistrate at Bow Street, and the creator of the mounted police -force of London. His mother (born 1767, died 1849) was the daughter of -Benjamin Booth, whose wife, Jane Salwey, was the only child and heiress -of Richard Salwey of the Moor, near Ludlow, in Shropshire. To Lady Ford -descended the whole of the Salwey property. Herself an excellent artist, -she inherited from her father, not only his love of art, but a fine -collection of paintings, including examples of the Dutch and Italian -Schools, and of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and a number of the best works of -Richard Wilson, the landscape painter.</p> - -<p>Richard, the eldest son of Sir Richard and Lady Ford, was born at 129, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span>Sloane Street, Chelsea, in 1796. Educated at Winchester, and Trinity -College, Oxford, he was called to the Bar at Lincoln’s Inn in 1822. But -he never practised. He had inherited from his grandfather and mother a -love of the fine arts; his passion for travelling was strong; he had no -need to pursue his profession. To a young man of his temperament and -easy circumstances, the Continent, so long closed to English travellers -by the Napoleonic wars, opened an alluring field. He travelled in France -and Italy, where he laid the foundation of his own collection of books, -paintings, and engravings. His additions to the pictures which he had -inherited, chiefly belonged to the Spanish School. Among them were fine -examples of Zurbaran, Ribalta, and Velazquez. Of the latter, the -portrait of Mariana of Austria, second wife of Philip IV. of Spain, is -reproduced in this volume (to face p. 218). The picture was given by -Ferdinand VII. to the Canon Cepero, in exchange for two Zurbarans in the -Madrid Gallery.</p> - -<p>In 1824 Richard Ford married Harriet Capel, a daughter of the Earl of -Essex, who, as Lord Malden, had been an intimate friend of his father. -The remaining facts of his life are sufficiently told in his letters.</p> - -<p>The letters from Richard Ford printed in this volume are almost entirely -selected from those which he wrote to Henry Unwin Addington, who in 1830 -was Envoy Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span> at the Court of Madrid. -They were carefully preserved by Addington, and at his death were left -by him to his wife, with directions that she should leave them to the -widow of Richard Ford. It is by Mrs. Ford’s wish that they are now -published.</p> - -<p>For the Index I am indebted to Mr. G. H. Holden, Assistant Librarian at -All Souls’ College, Oxford.</p> - -<p class="rt"> -ROWLAND E. PROTHERO.<br /></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I: SEVILLE</a><br /><br /> -(NOVEMBER 1830-MAY 1831)</th></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">Political Condition of Spain—Ford as a Traveller—Life -at Seville—Journey to Madrid by <i>Diligence</i>—Don -Quixote’s Country—Return to Seville</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II: THE ALHAMBRA</a><br /><br /> -(MAY-NOVEMBER 1831)</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">The Alhambra—Addington’s Visit—Tour to Alicante, -Valencia, Barcelona, Zaragoza, Madrid—Return to -the Alhambra</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_34">34</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III: SEVILLE REVISITED</a><br /><br /> -DECEMBER 1831-DECEMBER 1832</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">Return to Seville—Execution of Torrijos—Question of -Spanish Intervention in the Affairs of Portugal—Tarifa—Salamanca -and North-Western Spain—Succession -to the Spanish Crown</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_68">68</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV: SEVILLE AND GRANADA</a><br /><br /> -(JANUARY-SEPTEMBER, 1833)</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">Seville—Granada—Tetuan—Festivities at Madrid—Return -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x">{x}</a></span>to England</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_109">109</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V: EXETER</a><br /><br /> -1833-1837</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">Death of Ferdinand VII.—Exeter—Projected Book on -Spain—Purchase of Heavitree House—Marriage of -Lord King and of Addington—First Article in the -<i>Quarterly Review</i>—Death of Mrs. Ford</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_133">133</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI: HEAVITREE, NEAR EXETER</a><br /><br /> -(1837-1845)</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">Literary Work—Engagement and Second Marriage—Articles -in the <i>Quarterly Review</i>—Preparations for -a Tour on the Continent—Promise to Write the -<i>Handbook for Travellers in Spain</i>—Delays and -Interruptions—George Borrow—Reviews of the -<i>Zincali</i> and the <i>Bible in Spain</i>—Suppression of the -First Edition of the <i>Handbook</i>—Final Publication—The -<i>Felicidade</i></span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_158">158</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII: HEAVITREE AND LONDON</a><br /><br /> -1845-1858</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><span class="smcap">Success of the <i>Handbook</i>—<i>Gatherings from Spain</i>—Illness -and Death of his Wife—Marriage with -Miss Mary Molesworth—Telbin’s “Diorama of the -Duke of Wellington’s Campaigns”—Francis Clare -Ford and the Diplomatic Service—Death of Sir William -Molesworth—Failing Health—Marriage of Clare -Ford—Last Article in the <i>Quarterly Review</i>, and -Last Letter to Addington—Death at Heavitree, -August 31st, 1858</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_201">201</a></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a>: -<a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#X">X</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_221">221</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_001">Richard Ford (æt. 35)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#ill_001"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Sketch in Chalk by J. L. Lewis, R.A.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_002">“Jaca Cordovese,” 1832</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_9"><i>Facing</i> 9</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Sketch by J. L. Lewis, R.A.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_003">Bill payable to the Duke of Wellington against money received by Richard Ford from the Duke’s Spanish Estates</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_36"><span class="ditto">“</span> 36</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_004">Patio de los Leones</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_40"><span class="ditto">“</span> 40</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Drawing by Harriet Ford, 1832.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_005">Patio de la Mezquita</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_82"><span class="ditto">“</span> 82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Drawing by Harriet Ford, 1832.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_006">A Shooting Excursion</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_108"><span class="ditto">“</span> 108</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Sketch by J. L. Lewis, R.A. (Lewis rides in front, Ford in the middle, José Boscasa on a baggage donkey.)</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_007">Harriet Ford, first wife of Richard Ford</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_156"><span class="ditto">“</span> 156</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_008">Richard Ford (æt. 43)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_172"><span class="ditto">“</span> 172</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Picture painted in Rome by Antonio Chatelain, 1840.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_009">Margaret Henrietta Ford</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_186"><span class="ditto">“</span> 186</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Water-colour Sketch by Marianne Houlton, 1854.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_010">Lady Ford, mother of Richard Ford</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_206"><span class="ditto">“</span> 206</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From a Painting by Ramsay Richard Reinagle, R.A.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd"><a href="#ill_011">Doña Margarita Mariana of Austria, wife of Philip IV. of Spain</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_218"><span class="ditto">“</span> 218</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd2"><i>From the Painting by Velasquez in the possession of Richard Ford.</i></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br /><br /> -SEVILLE<br /><br /> -(NOVEMBER 1830-MAY 1831)</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Political Condition of Spain—Ford as a Traveller—Life at -Seville—Journey to Madrid by <i>Diligence</i>—Don Quixote’s -Country—Return to Seville</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> September 15th, 1830, Richard Ford wrote from London to his friend -Henry Unwin Addington, the British Plenipotentiary at Madrid, announcing -his intention to winter in Spain. The letter was sent by the hand of Mr. -Wetherell, who had been encouraged by the Spanish Government to set up a -tannery at Seville. He imported workmen and machinery, and established -his premises in the suppressed Jesuit convent of San Diego. But the -Government proved faithless, its promises were unfulfilled, the convent -was taken from him, and the unfortunate Wetherell, with many of his -compatriots, lies buried in the garden near the dismantled tannery.</p> - -<p>Cea Bermudez, whose opinion Ford quotes, was at that time the Spanish -Ambassador in England. As Prime Minister under Ferdinand VII. he had -proved too Liberal for his master (1825); so at a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span> later period (1832-3) -he showed himself, in the same capacity, too Conservative for Queen -Christina.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>September 15 [1830]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>Mr. Wetherell will take this to Madrid, on his way to Seville, -where I am shortly bound myself on account of Mrs. Ford’s health. -She is condemned to spend a winter or two in a warm climate, and we -have decided on the south of Spain for this year. We shall sail -very soon, as a friend of mine, Captain Shirreff, who is appointed -Port-admiral at Gibraltar, gives us a passage out.</p> - -<p>News we have none, as grass is growing in the deserted streets of -London; other news are not safely sent <i>por la delicadeza de las -circunstancias politicas</i>. But with them you are well acquainted by -the newspapers, which, if you could contrive occasionally to send -to me confidentially, and not to be shown, when at Seville, would -be the greatest favour our King’s representative could show to one -of his humble subjects on his travels.</p> - -<p>I am in hopes all will be quiet in Spain. Cea Bermudez thinks so, -and hinted to Lord Dudley, who told me, that they were going to do -everything that could be fairly expected by the Liberals. I am -praying the Queen may produce a son.</p> - -<p>I have seen much here of the Consul at Malaga,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span> Mr. Mark; if I am -to believe him, Malaga is a second Paradise. The Duke of Wellington -says Granada is charming; he has given us a letter to O’Lawlor, who -manages his property at Soto de Roma. Washington Irving tells us we -shall be able to be lodged in the Alhambra, as he was, which will -tempt me to pass next summer there.</p> - -<p>It is a serious undertaking to travel into Spain with three -children and four women, and a great bore to break up my -establishment here, but it must be done.</p> - -<p class="r"> -S[u] S[eguro] S[ervidor], <br /> -<span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<p>Political conditions, at the time when Richard Ford landed in Spain with -his wife and children, threatened the outbreak of civil war. In 1812 the -Cortes, sitting at Cadiz, then almost the only spot which was not -occupied by a foreign force, had promulgated the forms and phrases of -parliamentary government. Few praised, few blamed the new Constitution, -which was foreign in spirit and founded on French models; few asked the -reason why <i>Plaza de la Constitucion</i> was inscribed on the principal -squares. To the mass of the Spanish people, constitutions were parchment -unrealities. Caring less for theories of government than for the just -administration of existing laws, they gained from the action of the -Cortes nothing that they desired. Their deepest convictions were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span> -loyalty to the Church and to the Crown, and to these prejudices the -Constitution only opposed definitions. Every class that suffered by the -proposed reforms was mistrustful, if not hostile. The clergy, the -functionaries, the nobles, were either outraged in their opinions, or -attacked in their interests, or curtailed of their authority.</p> - -<p>When Ferdinand VII. returned to power in March 1814, he pressed his -advantage home. A restoration is often worse than a revolution. It was -so in Spain. Ferdinand rejected the Constitution, removed the -restrictions on his despotism, and restored the Inquisition. But he had -gone too far. Don Rafael del Riego stirred to rebellion the ill-paid -troops assembled on the Isla de Leon for the unpopular expedition to -South America. <i>El Himno de Riego</i>, the <i>Marseillaise</i> of Spain, written -by Evaristo San-Miguel and composed by La Huerta, caught the ears of the -people; even the <i>Tragala</i>, or <i>Ça ira</i> of Spanish revolutionists, was -sung in Madrid, and from 1820 to 1823 the Constitution was forced upon -the King. But with the help of France he had regained his despotic -authority, and used it with blind ferocity.</p> - -<p>In 1829 Ferdinand, till then childless, had married as his fourth wife, -Christina of Naples. The expected birth of a child alarmed the -retrograde party of extreme clericals and ultra-royalists which had -rallied round the King’s brother and presumptive heir, Don Carlos. At -the same time, the Constitutionalists or Liberals, encouraged by the -French Revolution of 1830, returned from exile, or emerged from their -hiding-places, and risings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span> in favour of political reform agitated the -North and the South of Spain. The general unrest was increased by the -Civil War in Portugal, where the Liberal adherents of Maria da Gloria, -the daughter of Pedro IV., waged war against the Absolutists who -supported her uncle Dom Miguel.</p> - -<p>Threatened on the one side by reactionary tendencies, and on the other -by political innovations, the weak and bankrupt Government rested -securely on the torpor of the Spanish people. With all his faults, -Ferdinand, fat, good-natured, jocose in a ribald fashion, affecting the -national dress, feeding on <i>puchero</i>, an eager sportsman, devoted to -smoking his thick Havana cigars, and to his beautiful queen, had few -personal enemies. He knew the temper of his country well. He did -nothing, and it was the interest of neither party to precipitate the -impending crisis. He was “the cork in the beer bottle,” as he said -himself, and only when he was “gone, would the beer foam over.” On -October 10th, 1830, his daughter Isabella was born. In her favour the -Salic law of succession was set aside. Don Carlos retired to Portugal, -and the Cortes swore to Isabella the oath of allegiance as Princess of -the Asturias and heiress to the throne. Three months later (September -29th, 1833), Ferdinand died. Isabella was proclaimed Queen, under the -guardianship of her mother, Doña Christina. Civil war at once broke out, -the Liberals supporting Christina, and the Carlists fighting under the -standard of legitimacy.</p> - -<p>But, apart from disturbed political conditions, the moment at which Ford -visited the country was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span> exceptionally favourable. Entrenched behind the -Pyrenees, isolated from the rest of Europe, Spain, in lazy pride, -watched from her Castle of Indolence the progress of other nations. Few -travellers crossed her borders. Travelling carriages were unknown -luxuries; it was only possible to post from Irun to Madrid. The system -of passports and police surveillance was vexatious. Except on the main -lines, the inns were bad, the by-roads were almost impassable for -wheeled carriages, the country was infested with robbers, and all these -obstacles were magnified by literary travellers. Thus Spain, repelling -intercourse with other nations, was thrown back upon herself. Yet this -isolation did not unite the separate provinces in any community of -national feeling. The contrary was the case. Bound together in -provincial clanship, the inhabitants knew themselves and their -neighbours, not as Spaniards, but as Arragonese or Castilians, -Andalusians or Catalans. The climate, soil, and products of the barren -dusty centre did not present more striking variations from those of the -rich luxuriant south than did the distinctive dress, language, customs, -and habits of the natives of the respective provinces. Here were the -sandals, the wide breeches, the bright sash, the many-coloured plaid, -the gay handkerchief of the half-oriental Valencian; here the red cap of -the Catalan, trousered to the armpits; here the broad-brimmed hat, -figured velvet waistcoat, richly worked shirt, and embroidered gaiters -of the Leonese; here the filigree buttons, silver tags and tassels which -studded the jacket of the Andalusian dandy, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span> starved for weeks on a -crust and onion that he might glitter in a gay costume, for a few hours -on a saint’s day, under his blue sky and brilliant sun. And everywhere, -in the foreground of every rural scene, stood the ass, the companion and -the helpmate of the Spanish peasant.</p> - -<p>Distinctions of dress were but the outward expression of a variety of -deeper differences. To the artist, the historian, the sportsman, and the -antiquary,—to the student of dialects, the observer of manners and -customs, the lover of art, the man of sentiment, Spain in 1830 offered -an enchanting field, an almost untrodden Paradise. In Ford all these -interests were combined, not merely as tastes, but as enthusiasms. He -revelled in the country and its people with the unflagging zest of his -richly varied sympathies. He learned to speak the Spanish of the place -in which he happened to be, and of the people with whom he chanced to be -talking. The inveterate exclusiveness of the aristocracy, the ingrained -mistrust of the lower orders, the professional suspicion of the bandit -or the smuggler broke down before the charm of his manners and -appearance. Quick to observe, and prompt to adopt, the customs, -ceremonies, and courtesies of Spanish society, he found the houses of -the grandees at his disposal. Rural Dogberries, jealous of their -authority, who could not be driven by rods of iron, submitted to be led -by the silken thread of his civility. José Maria, the bandit King of -Andalusia, made him free of his country, and over his wide district Ford -rode for miles, if not by his side, at least under his personal -protection.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span> Even the smuggler, by the fireside of a country inn, laid -aside his blunderbuss, and, over a bottle of wine and a cigar, gave him -his confidence. He was, in fact, a born traveller. If necessary, he was -master of every intonation with which the mule driver of La Mancha can -pronounce the national oath. But with him these occasions were rare. He -knew that money made the mare and the driver to go, and that a joke, a -proverb, or a cigar, was the best oil for reluctant wheels. Travelling -mainly on horseback, he was independent of roads. Mounted on “Jaca -Cordovese,” threading his way by bridle-paths and goat-tracks, he -penetrated to the most inaccessible of the towns which were plastered -like martins’ nests against the tawny rocks of Spain. Never looking for -five feet in a cat, or expecting more from Spanish inns than they could -offer, he encountered every inconvenience with good temper, and -accumulated in his wanderings the mass of insight, incident, and -adventure, which he stored in his note-books and embodied in his -<i>Handbook to Spain</i>.</p> - -<p>Ford’s second letter to Addington (November 27th, 1830) announces his -arrival, and is dated from “Plazuela San Isidoro, No. 11, Seville,”—the -Athens and the Capua of Spain. The house which he occupied seems to have -belonged to the Mr. Hall Standish who left to Louis Philippe the fine -collection of Spanish pictures which were formerly deposited in the -<i>Musée Standish</i> at the Louvre.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>We are all safely arrived at Seville, in spite of the Bay of -Biscay, and all the dangers and perils -</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a name="ill_002" id="ill_002"></a> -<a href="images/ill_003_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_003_sml.jpg" width="500" height="318" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>JACA CORDOVESE.</p> - -<p> -[<i>To face p. 9.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>“I [R. F. -rode more than 2000 miles on this Horse.”]</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">supposed to abound in this quiet country by the good people in -England. We had rather a long passage—twenty days—but were in a -good ship with a good captain, an old friend of mine, who is now -employed in cleaning that Augean Stable of jobs and -mismanagement—the Bay of Gibraltar. We were as comfortable as the -wretched nature of ships will allow of; man-cook, doctor, cow, -sheep, and chickens contributed thereunto.</p> - -<p>We were right glad to be landed at the Rock, and spent eight or ten -days there very agreeably in seeing the lions and monkeys, guns and -garrisons, and in going to balls and batteries. When I come to -Madrid, I will let you into a few of the secrets I heard at the -Rock. The old general<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and his lady (an old friend of my -mother’s) were very civil and good-natured to us. We found their -house very agreeable. Having clambered all over the Rock, we began -to feel the epidemic under which the garrison labours, namely, -<i>bore</i>, and the feeling of being shut up on so small a space. We -therefore took an English brig and proceeded to Cadiz.</p> - -<p>By the way, before you leave Spain, you should see the Straits of -Gibraltar. I never yet have seen any scenery to equal the African -coast, so bold and mountainous. Cadiz is charming, clean and tidy,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span> -abounding in all good things, the result of <i>a free trade</i>,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> if -you and the Spaniards would but think so. Thence in the steamer to -Seville, where we are finally settled in an excellent house which I -have taken of Mr. Hall Standish. It has the advantages of a garden, -a fireplace, and a southern exposure, which make it perfectly warm; -the climate delicious, everybody very civil.</p> - -<p>We have brought letters to all the governors and grandees, and one -from a gentleman who was of some consequence, the Duke of -Wellington, to his old friend, the Marquis de las Amarillas, the -<i>beau idéal</i> of a Spanish caballero.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> We intend spending the -winter here.</p> - -<p>I am in treaty for a <i>grande chasse</i> near this place, where the -<i>assistente</i> goes, and also am about to take the best box at the -theatre. You will think I have discovered a mine of gold; but all -this may be done for much less than the weekly bills in London, and -I hope to save at least half my income.</p> - -<p>Pray consider this house at your disposal if ever you may be -inclined to come to Seville; I think we shall be able to make you -comfortable.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span></p> - -<p>At Seville Ford remained for the next six months. There he laid the -foundations of his unrivalled knowledge of Spanish life. There, -sketchbook in hand, he studied the various styles of architecture, both -ecclesiastical and civil, of which the city was an epitome, sketching -the Prout-like subjects which every turn of the labyrinthine streets -afforded. There he studied the ceremonial, origin, and meaning of the -religious functions, nowhere more magnificent, and especially of the -quaint pageants of Holy Week. He learnt by heart the pictures in the -cathedral, the churches, the university, the museum, the private -galleries, and picked up for himself not a few of the treasures of -Spanish art. Under the crumbling battlements and long arches of the -aqueduct at the <i>Plaza de la Carne</i> he watched the Easter sales of -paschal lambs, reminded of Murillo by living originals, as the children -led off their lambs decorated with ribbons, or as shepherds strode by, -holding the animals by the four legs so as to form a tippet round their -necks. With much gossip and cigar-smoking he ransacked the shop of the -Greek Dionysio, the tall, gaunt bookseller in the <i>Calle de Genoa</i>, for -rare volumes, or chaffered with the jewellers in the arcades of the -<i>Plaza</i> for Damascene filigree and cinque-cento work, or bargained at -the weekly markets of <i>La Feria</i> among the piled-up stalls of fish, -fruit, flesh and fowl. At Seville he learned the useful art of ridding -himself of the importunity of beggars. There also he masqueraded at the -carnivals, flirted with the Andalusian beauties in the <i>Plaza del -Duque</i>, and mastered, in the best of schools, the intricacies of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span> -art of bull-fighting. At the fair of Mairena he noted every detail of -the glittering dresses of the <i>majos</i>, the dandies who there displayed -their finest dresses and feats of horsemanship. He revelled in the -colours and costumes, the grouping and attitudes of the washerwomen, who -screamed and chattered in the <i>Corral del Conde</i>. He followed with the -keenest interest every step in the national <i>bolero</i> at the theatre, -every movement of the wilder saraband, danced to the accompaniment of -castanets and tambourines by the gipsies in the suburb of <i>Los Humeros</i>. -Among the horse-dealers, jockeys, and cattle-dealers, who thronged the -<i>Alameda Vieja</i>, he had many friends, and from them probably learned -some of the secrets of horse-keeping which he knew to perfection. For -his pencil he found endless subjects on the sunny flats beyond the -Moorish walls in the groups of idlers, who, under the vine trellises, -played cards the livelong day for wine or love or coppers; or in the -suburb of <i>La Macarena</i>, the home of the agricultural labourer, where -the women, clad in the rainbow rags of picturesque poverty, and the -naked urchins, rich in every variety of brown and yellow, gathered in -front of their hovels behind their carts and implements and animals.</p> - -<p>Of society in Seville he saw as much as there was to be seen. Writing to -Addington in November or December 1830, he says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>This place is dull enough for people inclined to balls and dinners; -but we are very well pleased. The climate delicious beyond -description, open<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span> doors and windows, with the sun streaming in. We -have had a good deal of rain, but no cold. I have a good fireplace -in my sitting-room, which is a rarity here, and indeed is not much -wanted. The habits of the natives are very unsocial, never meeting -in each other’s houses, and only going to the theatre Thursdays and -Mondays. Politics, and a want of money, contribute much to this, -and, more, their natural indolence and love of hugger-muggery at -home in their shawls and over the <i>Brasero</i>. Their customs are -droll and inconvenient. Nothing more so than that of visiting in -grand costume, white gloves and necklaces, from 12 to 2; then they -dine, and what they do afterwards, God knows. The day is pretty -well consumed in doing nothing. However, we dine at half-past 5, -and contrive to get a morning for walking, sketching, reading, etc.</p> - -<p>The principal people are very civil, especially the <i>Assistente</i>, -Arjona, and a General Giron, Marquis of Amarillas, a friend of the -Duke of Wellington. They talk politics to <i>me</i>; but that is a -subject nobody touches on here.</p> - -<p>As far as I can see, mixing much with bankers, <i>canonigos</i>, and -grandees, there is no appearance whatever of anything unpleasant, -and I am sure at Cadiz still less; either they do not talk about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span> -these matters, or do not care. I am inclined to think the latter. I -saw a captain of an English brig yesterday, twelve days from -Plymouth, who says that everything is quite quiet in the south-west -part of England—no burnings or meetings.</p> - -<p>I have had no news yet from my <i>Whig friends</i> in London. Now would -be the time for me to be looking out for something; but there are -ten Pigs no doubt for every Teat, and the Whigs are much more -hungry from long abstinence than the Tories who have been sucking -away this fifty years. I will venture to opine that they will not -meddle with you. Lord Palmerston is a great friend of Lord Dudley’s -and they were in office together, and I am sure Lord D. is a good -friend of yours. I hope they won’t for all sorts of reasons, and a -selfish one of looking forward to paying you a visit at Madrid next -April.</p> - -<p>I am going on Sunday to the Coto del Rey for a week’s shooting, the -<i>Assistente</i> having ordered an officer to go with me and see that I -have the best of it and good lodgings in the <i>Palacio</i>.</p> - -<p>Mr. Williams<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> has a very fine collection of pictures of the -Spanish school, which I own disappoints me, a sort of jumble of -Rubens<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span> and Carlo Maratti. However, I have not seen much yet.</p> - -<p>My wife is better already, and the children in a wonderful state of -health; we positively live in the open air; the air is good, the -water better, and the bread superlative. I don’t see what they want -here except money, which is after all something, but nothing to so -<i>rich</i> a man as your very humble servant is in Seville.</p></div> - -<p>A later letter (January 1st, 1831) is in the same strain:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Many thanks for the Galignanis, always most acceptable, whether -early or late, many or few. One can’t expect in Spain to keep pace -with the march of intellect and English mail. I trust civilisation -will be long getting in here, for it is now an original Peculiar -People, potted for six centuries, as was well said. Luckily the -robbers and roads will stop much advance of improvement. I have too -much respect for Ambassadors and their privileges to presume to -expect anything out of the way. <i>La forme, il faut s’y tenir.</i> If -you can get me a Galignani, well; if not, well. I have a great mind -to write to Paris at once, as I see they never touch any of my -letters. If they did I should go to Arjona, who is a great friend -of mine.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span></p> - -<p>I am just returned from a shooting excursion at the <i>Coto del Rey</i>, -where he sent me, with a captain to attend on me; a magnificent -sporting country and full of woodcocks.</p> - -<p>We go on in our humdrum manner, for there is absolutely no society -whatever; dinners of course not, but not even a <i>Tertulia</i> [“at -home” or <i>Conversazione</i>]. They meet twice a week at the theatre. -The great bore is the visiting for all the <i>fine ladies</i> (what -would Lʸ. Jersey or Lʸ. Cowper think of them?). They have -condescended to quit their <i>braseros</i> and call on my wife, partly -to see the strange monster they conceive her to be, and partly to -show their laces, white gloves, and trinkets. They call about 2 -o’clock, dressed out for a ball, with fans, and all their wardrobe -on their back; visits interminable. Some bring Mr. Fernando White -as their dragoman, which is rather droll, as his English is -infinitely less intelligible than their Spanish. Then we return the -visits, my wife in mantilla and white gloves, according to -etiquette. What a contrast between these fine ladies at home and -abroad! No Cinderella changes more rapidly. There they are, -squatting over their <i>brasero</i>, unwashed, undressed, cold and -shivering, and uncomfortable, wrapped up in a shawl in their great -barnlike, unfurnished houses; a matted rush and a few<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span> chairs the -inventory of their chattels. A book is a thing I have not yet set -eyes on, nor anything which indicates the possession of those -damnable, heretical accomplishments, reading and writing. They are -very civil and gracious, and everything is at our disposition, -especially as they see we have eyes, hands, and faces, like other -mortals. Of course I am considered to be a milor, and am known by -the name of the Don Ricardo.</p> - -<p>We have had many letters from England; all seem very uncomfortable -there about the way things are going on. After all, it will turn -out, as I said in England, the only place to be quiet in is Spain. -Lady Jersey is broken-hearted; Lady Lyndhurst ruined,—they have -just £1200 a year, which won’t pay her coiffeur. Lord Lyndhurst<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> -expected to the last to have been Chancellor; Lords Carnarvon, -Dudley, and Radnor indignant. The new Ministry thought to be very -Grey, too much so.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> They will cut down all the good things, till, -as old Tierney said, it will be a losing concern to come in. Lord -Castlereagh used to say, in the good old times, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span> the dark days -of Nicolas, that “the cake was not then too large for the wholesome -aliment of the constitution.”</p> - -<p>Great doings in the cathedrals, churches, and convents: much -bell-ringing, processions, great consumption of incense, torches, -and tapers. I wonder how the lower orders manage to keep -themselves, as every day seems to be a holiday. The most active -branch of commerce is the sale of the water of the Alameda, which -seems to agree with the Sevillian as well as it would with a trout.</p> - -<p>Everything appears to me to be in a state of profound repose, all -dead and still.</p></div> - -<p>An enthusiastic sportsman, Ford found that the neighbourhood swarmed -with game—with partridges, hares, rabbits, quail, curlew, and plover. -Snipe and woodcock abounded. Within a mile from Seville, he could with -ease kill ten couple of snipe in a morning: in every half-acre copse he -counted on flushing five or six woodcock. Behind a pasteboard horse, or -concealed in a country cart, he stalked the bustards drawn up in long -lines on the plains that bordered the Guadalquivir. The Coto del Rey, a -royal preserve about thirty miles from Seville, abounded not only with -the smaller game of the country, but also deer and wild boars. With most -of the smaller winged game he had the field to himself, and his skill, -armed with a double-barrelled Purdey, and using detonators, seemed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span> -the countrymen almost demoniacal. The natives themselves rarely fired at -game in motion, partly because ammunition was extravagantly dear, partly -because, with their flint and steel guns, a quarter of a minute elapsed -between pulling the trigger and the discharge of the piece. Spaniards -shot rather for the pot than for sport. In partridge shooting decoys -were used, and the birds killed on the ground. Hares were shot in -cleared runs or on their forms, and rabbits as they paused in creeping -to the edges of woods.</p> - -<p>In the occupations and amusements which Seville and its neighbourhood -afforded, Ford passed his time agreeably enough. Though not yet the -vehement Tory that he became in later life, he congratulated himself on -having left England, then in the throes of Parliamentary Reform. Nor was -he alone in his gloomy forebodings. Even the prospects of Spain seemed -to him, by comparison, peaceful. Yet already revolutionary movements -were on foot within his immediate neighbourhood. In his next three -letters from Seville (February 2nd; February, undated; March 25th, -1831), he refers to the attempts of General Torrijos to stir up a -Liberal rising in Andalusia, their failure, and their punishment.</p> - -<p>From his safe refuge at Gibraltar, Torrijos had issued a proclamation, -calling on the Spanish people to rise against the tyranny of the -Government. On January 24th, 1831, he followed up this manifesto by -landing near Algeciras with two hundred followers. Confronted by -superior numbers, he was compelled to re-embark for Gibraltar.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span> Six -weeks later, March 3rd, 1831, his emissaries won over six hundred of the -sailors and soldiers quartered at Cadiz. A riot took place: the -Governor, Oliver y Hierro, was killed; the movement threatened to become -general. But the rising was soon quelled. The mutineers endeavoured to -join Manzanares in the hills round Ronda. On their march they were -attacked by Quesada, the Captain-General of Andalusia, at Vejer, a -Moorish town scrambling up the rocky cliffs from the river Barbate, -sixteen miles from Cadiz. “Prodigies of valour” were performed by the -royalist troops, whose losses were one man killed, two wounded, and two -bruised. The rebels were defeated. A few escaped to the coast; the -majority were either killed with arms in their hands or as prisoners. -The followers of Manzanares had dwindled to twenty men; Manzanares -himself was murdered by a goatherd, and his companions were spared at -Quesada’s request. The only results of these badly planned invasions -were the creation of courts martial, the multiplication of spies, -wholesale executions, and the establishment of a reign of terror.</p> - -<p>Quesada, in spite of his magniloquent bulletin, was a man of mark. Under -Queen Christina’s regency he was appointed Captain-General of Madrid. -Borrow, who speaks of him as “a very stupid individual, but a great -fighter,”<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> was yet stirred to enthusiasm by the energy and courage of -the “brute bull,” to whom he devotes some of his most picturesque pages. -Almost single-handed, Quesada repressed the military riots at Madrid -(August 11th<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span> and 12th, 1836). “No action,” says Borrow, “of any -conqueror or hero on record is to be compared with this closing scene of -the life of Quesada; for who, by his single desperate courage and -impetuosity, ever stopped a revolution in full course? Quesada did; he -stopped the revolution at Madrid for one entire day, and brought back -the uproarious and hostile mob of a huge city to perfect order and -quiet. His burst into the Puerta del Sol was the most tremendous and -successful piece of daring ever witnessed. I admired so much the spirit -of the ‘brute bull’ that I frequently, during his wild onset, shouted -‘Viva Quesada!’<span class="lftspc">”</span><a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> A few days afterwards Quesada was murdered by the -nationals at a village near Madrid. Portions of his body were brought -back to the city, and in the coffeehouse of the <i>Calle del Alcalá</i> the -mangled fingers and hand of the murdered man were stirred in a huge bowl -of coffee, which was drunk to the accompaniment of a grisly song.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>February 2, 1831.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I send you a proclamation issued this morning. People do not seem -inclined to believe it, and think Torrijos had at least two -thousand men. If he had, there must have been a vast propagation -going on in the bay this winter, and armed revolutionists must have -sprung out of the seaweed like so many soldiers of Cadmus. When I -was there, I heard much of them from General Don, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span> Town Major, -and Shirreff (the Captain of the Port, who brought us out), and the -outside number was computed at six hundred, without arms or money. -I believe the people would have no objection here to a change, if -it could be accomplished by the act of God, or anyhow without -putting them to expense or trouble. They are afraid of everything, -I am told—hot water, cold water, shaving, talking, or indeed doing -anything. As for their ignorance, it is the result of leaving the -mind constantly fallow, and the sharpest Spaniard would get dull, -with their 2-o’clock dinners and habits of living. I find them all -<i>slow</i> in the movements of mind and body. The climate of this place -is most delicious; the rains are over, and the last ten days have -been more charming than any July in England, the sun so warm as -really to be almost oppressive. Spring is coming on rapidly; the -trees are budding, and the vegetation makes gigantic strides. We -have not had above ten days’ cold all the winter, and that a degree -of cold varying between 36 and 46.</p> - -<p>I have had many letters from England, and fear that people are very -uncomfortable there. The tone and feeling I collect from the mass -of letters are far from satisfactory. I believe we are now in the -only quiet place. If ever you should see any real clouds<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span> in the -horizon, pray give me a timely hint, as I have a wife and three -children here, and Gibraltar is a very snug place in stormy -weather. I am going to write to Shirreff, and will beg him to let -me know the rights of this Spanish business at Gibraltar, and -communicate them to you.</p> - -<p>There is nothing doing; we live a humdrum life, never going out, -neither to the theatre, which is really insupportably dull, nor to -the <i>Alameda</i>. We dine late, and are much occupied with those -damnable heretical inventions—reading and writing, with those -incomprehensible ones to Spaniards—drawing and music, for not even -the guitar is played. I have made a large collection of drawings of -this most picturesque old town; my wife is hard at work with her -guitar, and will play you some real Spanish airs when she gets to -Madrid.</p> - -<p>There is no such thing as a <i>drawing master</i>. The natives are -interested and surprised at all our proceedings, and verily believe -we have all arrived from the moon.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>February</i> (undated) 1831.<br /> -</p> - -<p>We are here blockaded by the waters, and almost cut off from all -communications. The country from the top of the Giralda looks like -Venice, and in many of the streets people go about in boats. The -state of the poor is very lamentable, and they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span> are distributing -bread, etc. Still, the suburb of Triana has risen, and a troop of -soldiers has been obliged to be sent there. However, the rain has -ceased, and there is a prospect of better weather. I hear -occasionally from England, where things are settling down, but -people seem to expect a continental war, in consequence of the -Polish revolution. However, you are much more in the light than I -can possibly be. Is it true that Sir Frˢ. Burdett is dead? I hope -not, as he is a great friend of mine and a most agreeable and -perfect gentleman, tho’ <i>not</i> a Tory, <i>con licencia de usted</i> -[begging your Honour’s pardon]. People seem to think Parliament -will be dissolved after all.</p> - -<p>This is a sad, dull town for news, as I see nobody, and nobody sees -anybody. I have got into a mess by asking some of the <i>Grandees</i> to -dinner, and giving them a Spanish dinner and using some <i>Spanish</i> -plates. God knows I have neither plates nor plate. They have -thought what I meant as a compliment was meant to turn them into -ridicule. However, I have gravely explained the matter, and stand -right again, <i>rectus in curia</i>, having afforded conversation to -this excellent and industrious Capital for some few days.</p> - -<p>Certainly to us who have seen England, France, Germany, and Italy, -this <i>is</i> a curious country, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span> the people are not attainted by -the march of intellect. However, I am much inclined to like them -better than the French, the Germans, or the Italians.</p> - -<p>My wife is <i>pretty</i> well; she did not expect such a tremendous -visitation of rain and damp as we have undergone. As soon as she is -delivered of her precious burden, she will set out for Madrid, and -hopes to find your Excellency there. In spite of all our Whig -friends, I am a rank Tory in hoping to see you at your post, and am -not quite sure that some of the Tory principles I imbibed in very -early youth do not remain, in spite of Brooks’s, and the dangerous -company I have kept since marriage. I am not sure if I should not -prefer the Canning System to all others; you will despise that as a -half-measure. However, here I have no politics, nor care much to -have any anywhere.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>March 25, 1831.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>At length I am able to announce the safe confinement of my wife, -who on the 22nd presented me with another boy to consume my -substance in these hard times. My wife had an excellent time, and -everything was managed in the Spanish fashion, much to her -satisfaction. She is doing quite well. Owing to her confinement -having taken place so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span> much later than we expected, I am afraid she -must give up all thoughts of coming to Madrid, as the journey is -too long for one so newly confined. I think of coming myself after -the raree show of the Holy Week here is over, so very likely may -set out in the <i>diligence</i> about the 7th or 8th of April.</p> - -<p>We are all very quiet here. The Captain-General is come back, so I -conclude all the row near Gibraltar is put down. Indeed, the thing -seems to be rather ridiculous. We have a flaming account of the -<i>bizarria</i> and wonderful gallantry of the troops—how they stood -firm under a most tremendous fire, the result of which was one man -killed, two wounded, one horse ditto, and two men with contusion. -They were in a sad stew the night the news of the assassination of -the Cadiz Governor arrived; but since that all has been most -tranquil, and now Quesada is come back, the Liberals will be in -such a fright as will even surprise a Spaniard.</p> - -<p>Many thanks for the Galignanis. The debates are most interesting. -It is a sweeping measure, and if the Ministry go out on it, the -country will go with them. Those who succeed will not be on a bed -of roses. I hardly think they can carry it, with the present state -of the House.</p> - -<p>I am in hopes, now Quesada is come back, that they will let the -processions go on as usual. There<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span> was some talk that this year -they would not; it would be a hard case not to see the whole game -played.</p> - -<p>I have just seen a friend of mine, Captain Bigge, who was very -ill-used at Cadiz, and threatened with arrest unless he left the -town. Quesada, the Captain-General here, is very civil to him. The -people in Madrid must be crazy to offend such a man as Quesada, -whose presence and name <i>only</i> put down the affair at Cadiz. Here -they say that they have refused him the pardon he asked for for -some of the revolutionists. He is so annoyed that they expect he -will resign; if so, the Lord have mercy upon the ruling powers. As -long as he is here all will go right. They are arresting and -shooting away in Cadiz, and they say an order is arrived for all -those settled there since 1822 to leave the place in forty-eight -hours; they will all join José Maria or turn Liberals. Some low -rumours are afloat that Cadiz will no longer be a free port. <i>Quem -Deus vult perdere, prius dementat</i>. The only man to conciliate and -consult is Quesada, as far as this part of the world goes, as he is -a fair straightforward man of common sense, and equally respected -by all parties, and his name alone is a host in a country where -everybody is afraid of everything and everybody.</p> - -<p>Many thanks for your hospitable offer. I shall<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span> certainly come -alone to Madrid, and may Providence protect your Excellency from -the reductions of the Whigs for many a year! Depend upon it, the -general feeling in Andalusia is against these cold-blooded military -executions, and no one more so than Quesada, who is the <i>magnus -Apollo</i> here, and the only person of whom the Spanish Government -might say <i>sic me servavit</i>. The processions of the Holy Week are -all stopped,—much to my sorrow, as I am told they were most -curious, delightful relics of superstition, which I am very fond -of, very picturesque and barbarous.</p></div> - -<p>In April 1831 Ford paid his proposed visit to Addington at Madrid. The -two following letters announce his intended departure (April 2nd) and -his safe return to Seville (May 14th).</p> - -<p>The <i>diligences</i>, though only introduced into Spain in 1821, were -admirably managed. Travelling over excellent main roads, drawn by teams -of eight, twelve, or sometimes fifteen mules, they were lighter, more -roomy, and faster than those in France. As compared with English -stage-coaches, a traveller<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> considered them to be more comfortable -than our own, and equally regular in their working. Posting was almost -unknown, and people who in England would have hired post-horses, -travelled by the public coaches. Even royal personages did<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span> not disdain -their use. The journey from Seville to Madrid occupied four and a-half -days, a few hours every evening being allowed for sleep on the journey. -The fares varied with the places, ranging from £9 in the <i>berlina</i> to £5 -10<i>s.</i> on the outside.</p> - -<p>The living portions of the equipage were picturesque in the extreme. The -mules, whose harness was adorned with skeins and tassels of gay-coloured -worsted, were shorn smooth, except on the flanks and cruppers, where the -hair was allowed to grow in fantastic patterns. The driver wore a -sugarloaf-shaped, broad-brimmed hat over a bright silk handkerchief, -tied round his head so that the tails hung down behind. He was clothed -in a short jacket of brown cloth, embroidered on the back and arms with -vases and flowers, and breeches of blue plush, adorned with stripes and -filigree buttons, bound at the knees with cords and tassels of silk. His -neck was open, with a turn-down collar, and a gaudy tie passed loosely -through a ring. His waist was girt with a yellow sash. His legs were -encased in stockings and embroidered gaiters, and his feet shod with -brown boots of untanned calfskin. Mounting to his perch, gathering the -skein of reins in his hand, cracking his whip, calling on each of the -mules by her high-sounding name, he set his team in motion,—his helper, -a humble imitator of his master in the matter of dress, running by the -side of the animals, encouraging, reviling, or pelting them, with -unerring aim, from the stones with which he had filled his sash. So the -<i>diligence</i> rattled past the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span> Tobacco Factory out of the city gate, -under the Moorish wall, through an arch of the Roman aqueduct, and on to -the great high road to Madrid.</p> - -<p>One part of the journey, at least, was full of interest to Ford. He -carried <i>Don Quixote</i> with him on all his travels, knew the book by -heart, and now found himself passing through the barren district of La -Mancha. Here was Argamasilla de Alba, the village of Don Quixote, and -the site of the prison in which, as tradition wrongly asserted, -Cervantes wrote his book. Here, with its neighbouring well, was the -<i>Venta de Quesada</i>, scarcely changed in external aspect since it was the -scene of the knighting of the “lantern-jawed” Don; here was El Toboso, -where Dulcinea lived; here the Sierra, where the knight did penance; -here, at the mouth of the gorge of Despeña-perros, was the Venta de -Cardenas, which perhaps suggested the name of Cardenio for the “Ragged -one of the Sorry Countenance,” and, above the pass, was the spot where -he told his tale. Valdepeñas was still littered with the wine-swollen -pig-skins, which Don Quixote attacked; the waterless uplands bristled -with windmills; and in every village toiled numbers of brown-clad, -sandal-shod Sancho Panzas.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="rt"> -<i>April 2 [1831].</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I venture to take up a moment of your time, to say that I have -taken my place in the <i>diligence</i> for Thursday next, and shall, in -due time, God willing, arrive in Madrid on <i>Monday the 11th</i>. I -accept with great thankfulness the offer you make of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span> giving me a -room in your house, and will give you no trouble, I assure you.</p> - -<p>No doubt you have had a long protest, etc., etc., from -Brackenbury<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> on the subject of Captain Bigge’s ill-usage at -Cadiz. Now, as Bigge is an old friend of mine, I can tell you <i>en -confidence</i> something about it. In the first place, he thinks -neither of Liberals nor Constitutions, but only where he can get -the best cigars. He was dining with me, and talking of his Cadiz -adventures, when he let out that he was a friend of Torrijos and -Calderon; that his passport was signed the <i>3rd of March</i>, the -fatal day; that he had told a girl he was dancing with in Cadiz -last Carnival to beware of the Ides of March, and not to venture -out on the 3rd. Now, all this being duly reported to the police, in -such a moment as this, was enough to make them treat him as a -suspected person,—very unjustly, but, still, on these sort of -matters Spaniards do not understand how <i>young</i> men talk in -England. I just mention all this to put you <i>au courant</i>.</p> - -<p>We have also here a Captain Cook, a navigator<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span> (but not <i>the</i> -Captain Cook). He is a great geologist and stuffer of little birds, -a tall, stiff man, with a sort of philosophical hat, that Buckland -or Cuvier might wear. Now you know what you have to expect in -Madrid.</p> - -<p>I have had a most civil letter from General O’Lawlor, of Granada -(having sent him a letter his master, the great Duke, gave me). He -has procured me the refusal of the Alhambra; but it is represented -to be in a ruinous condition, and, as my children and English -servants have no taste for the Moorish picturesque, but a great -notion of the more humble gratification proceeding from a -comfortable house and well-appointed kitchen, I am rather inclined -to put up with the unromantic reality of some good ready-furnished -house.</p> - -<p>Meantime <i>vive valeque</i>! I hope very shortly to pay my personal -respects to your Excellency.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="rt"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>May 14</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I arrived safely this morning here after a very prosperous journey, -and rather an interesting one, through Talavera, Merida, and -Badajoz. Talavera, a very curious old <i>Spanish</i> town in a most -picturesque state of dirt and decay; Merida, where I remained two -days, full of Roman remains, an aqueduct grander than anything I -ever saw in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span> Italy; Badajoz, well worth seeing, a magnificent -position, and fine old castle, which we have pretty well knocked -about. They were all rather in a fuss there (as being the frontier -town) as to what was going on in Portugal, and very particular -about all strangers coming in and going out. Thence to Sevilla over -the Sierra Morena, a glorious, wild, uncultivated, uninhabited -country, full of hawks, partridges, and cistus. The hills, being -covered with the white flower, looked like <i>Epinards sucrés</i>. I -found my spouse much better than I expected.</p> - -<p>Messrs. de Custine<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> and de Barbe are, I believe, still here. -They have been taking a great many people up here lately for -political reasons, but no executions.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /><br /> -THE ALHAMBRA<br /><br /> -(MAY-NOVEMBER 1831)</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><span class="smcap">The Alhambra—Addington’s Visit—Tour to Alicante, Valencia, -Barcelona, Zaragoza, Madrid—Return to the Alhambra</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">When</span> Ford wrote to Addington in April 1831, he was hesitating between a -furnished house at Granada or rooms in the ruined palace of the -Alhambra. Poetry conquered prose; comfort gave way to romance. His -letter of June 7th, 1831, announces that he had installed himself in the -palace.</p> - -<p>Granada and the Alhambra are places which seem to rise above the prosaic -level of the working world and catch the last gleams of mediæval -romance. The very mention of their names conjures up pageants of -chivalry and splendid visions of departed glory. Soil and climate -increase the fascination and deepen the spell which is cast upon the -imagination. The verdure of a northern climate spreads itself beneath -the cloudless azure of the south. Olive-yards, orange-groves, and -vineyards clothe the hills, gardens embroider the valleys, billows of -corn wave in the plains, of that enchanted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span> region over which hung the -celestial Paradise of Mahomet. Here, hemmed in between the mountains and -the sea, and narrowed within the space of ten years, till its events -assume the distinctness and unity of an epic, was concentrated the final -struggle which closed the drama of Moorish domination in Spain. Every -spot recalls some scene in the conflict, and the “last sigh of the Moor” -still whispers on the heights above Granada. In that Holy War historical -truth outrivalled romantic fiction; the manners, customs, creeds of the -East and the West contended for supremacy; the splendour of steel-clad -chivalry met the roar and crash of artillery; the Middle Ages were -locked in the death-grapple with modern civilisation.</p> - -<p>The journey from Seville to Granada followed the high road to Madrid as -far as Andujar. Leaving the <i>diligence</i> at that place, the Fords drove -from Andujar to Granada by way of Jaen in a <i>coche de colleras</i>. Their -carriage was a huge machine belonging to the seventeenth century, -carved, gilded, and richly painted, set on wheels which were as -extravagantly high behind as they were low in front. It was drawn by -four mules, driven by the voice, whip, and stones of the driver -(<i>majoral</i>) and his helper (<i>zagal</i>). But the picturesque novelty of the -expedition was the guard of six <i>Miquelites</i> who accompanied the -carriage. These men, drawn from a regular body which was organised -throughout Spain for the protection of travellers, are said to derive -their name from Miquel de Prats, a bravo in the train of Cæsar Borgia. -Well armed with short guns, swords, and pistols, dressed in a sort<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span> of -uniform of blue jackets trimmed with red, they were all young men picked -for their strength and activity. Many of them had previously been -smugglers or bandits, and were held in wholesome dread by their former -colleagues.</p> - -<p>Thus escorted, the journey was performed without risk, and Ford, with -his wife and family, safely lodged in the Alhambra. The palace, -whitewashed by the monks and purified from Moslem abominations, or -wrecked by Charles V. to supply materials for new palaces, had fallen -into neglect and decay. It had been an asylum for debtors, a hospital -for invalid soldiers, a prison for galley-slaves. From 1798 onwards it -was the official residence of Spanish governors, who made good use of -their opportunity for plunder. The dados were broken up to make firewood -for cooks and bakers; the tiles were torn up and worked into shop -fronts; the leaden pipes which supplied the fountains were sold. A -donkey was stabled in the chapel, sheep were folded in the courtyards, -poultry penned in the halls. The French invaders converted it into a -barrack, a powder magazine, a store for plundered goods, and, when they -evacuated it, blew up eight of the Moorish towers. The work of gutting -the place was continued by the Spaniards, who tore down doors, wrenched -off locks, and carried off panes of glass. When Ford was there -galley-slaves were at work converting, to the chink of their chains, a -part of the building into a storehouse for salt fish. The first real -attempt to restore the Alhambra was made by a peasant woman, Francisca -de Molina, the “Tia Antonia” of Washington Irving.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a name="ill_003" id="ill_003"></a> -<a href="images/ill_004_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_004_sml.jpg" width="500" height="211" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>BILL PAYABLE TO THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON AGAINST MONEY -RECEIVED BY RICHARD FORD FROM THE DUKE’S SPANISH ESTATES.</p> - -<p> -[<i>To face p. 36.</i><br /> -</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span></p> - -<p>She worked with her own hands to repair the ravages of her predecessors, -cleared away rubbish, set the famous lions on their legs in the -courtyard, and reigned, with her two chattering mercenary nieces, the -crabbed Queen and lioniser of the Alhambra. In the rooms which she had -occupied Ford was lodged.</p> - -<p>From the Alhambra, more beautiful, probably, in its ruin than in its -restoration, most of the letters contained in this chapter were written. -Here Ford entertained Addington, and to the Alhambra he returned in -November, 1831, from the tour which he describes.</p> - -<p>Ten miles from Granada is the Sota de Roma, or Wood of the Pomegranate, -an estate of 4000 acres, conferred by the Cortes on the Duke of -Wellington in gratitude for his victory at Salamanca. Owing to -difficulties of exchange, Ford had arranged that the Duke should receive -his income in England, while he drew an equivalent sum from the Duke’s -Spanish estates. The agent was General O’Lawlor, an Irish gentleman in -the Spanish military service. Don José, as Ford calls him, had married a -wealthy heiress from Malaga, the “Dionysia” of the letters, and had made -profitable investments of her money in the lead mines of Berja. Ford -found the society of the O’Lawlors pleasant, as also were the -green-gages in the garden attached to the old rambling house which was -the agent’s residence.</p> - -<p>His letters show little trace of the disturbed condition of the country. -Yet all round him were signs of the reign of terror produced by panic of -rebellion. One execution struck him, in all its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span> circumstances, as -peculiarly brutal. By express orders from Madrid, a young woman of good -birth, Mariana de Pineda,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> was, in May 1831, garrotted at Granada. -Pardon was offered her if she would reveal the names of her accomplices. -She refused, and died by the hand of the public executioner. Her alleged -crime was the possession of a partially embroidered flag of green silk, -the Constitutionalist colours. Whether she was guilty or not seems to be -doubtful. It was at least alleged that the flag had been placed in her -house by a Government <i>employé</i>, Ramon Pedroza, whose suit she had -rejected. A column near the Triunfo now marks the site of her sacrifice -to a longing for liberty.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Alhambra</span>, <i>June 7 [1831]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>I am almost tempted to go down a crumbling staircase, which leads -from my kitchen into the <i>Sala de los Embajadores</i>, to indite my -epistle from a <i>local conveniente a sa Ecc</i>. I am busy up here with -a troop of painters and carpenters putting the part of the Alhambra -given up to the Alcaide, and by him to me, into order: no small -task, I can assure you, for, what with time, the French, and the -barbarous Spaniards, all this enchanted spot is going the way of -everything in Spain. To attempt any account of it would be -impossible, either by pen or pencil. No previous idea can come up -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span> the exquisite beauty of the Alhambra. Here we are, with the -most delicious breezes from the snowy mountain above us, perfumed -by a thousand groves and gardens of vine, orange, and pomegranate, -carolled by nightingales, who daily and nightly sing in the dark -grove to the tune of “Ally Croker,”<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> all by the side of gushing -streams and never-failing fountains. Here summer cometh not—<i>not</i> -in the way that it appears <i>not to come</i> in Castille; but, while -all below in the town and <i>Vega</i> are roasting, broiling, and -baking, we neither know it nor feel it.</p> - -<p>The journey here was very prosperous. <i>Esposa y sa servidor</i> -started alone in the <i>diligence</i> to Cordova. The heat without -intense, inside (<i>six inside</i>) infernal. Ecija, another hell, and -well deserves to be called <i>La sartenilla</i> [the frying-pan] <i>de -Andalucia</i>. We remained at Cordova three days; in the ancient -<i>mezquita</i> a wood of pillars, some eight hundred odd, to say -nothing of the holy chapel of the Moslems, <i>La Ceca</i>, which is -finer and better preserved than anything even here, owing to the -<i>purification of Sn. Fernando’s</i> monks, which was simply daubing -over with plaster of Paris all the painted arabesque and delicate -damascene work of the Moor. A few years ago all this -impurification<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span> was removed, and the worshippers of Mahomet and the -fine arts made happy. Thence to Andujar per <i>diligence</i>. Thence in -a <i>coche</i> with nine <i>Miquelites</i> to Granada, by Jaen. The road to -Jaen through ploughed fields, uninhabited except by the gang of the -<i>Botiga</i>, the José Maria of Jaen; but we neither saw nor heard of -him, and duly arrived, well shaken, at the worst inn in Spain. Jaen -very striking and picturesque. I was much bored by the -<i>commandante</i>, one Downie, who has forgotten English, but came to -pay me a visit.</p> - -<p>Thence to Granada, through the mountains, the most beautiful road -(<i>quoad</i> road) possible, a thing to delight Macadam. The scenery to -delight any son of Adam with or without a Mac, full of torrents, -rivers, rocks, precipices, goats, vines, figs, lights and shades, -etc., but wanting in good accommodation for man or beast. So we -went direct the seventeen leagues, seventeen mortal mountain -leagues, at a pull, twenty-three hours <i>en coche</i>; think of that, -Master Brook!<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> The <i>Miquelites</i>, being well supplied with strong -cigars of the worst Royal fabrication, ran and sang the whole way.</p> - -<p>Arrived here at a most excellent inn, the best I have seen in -Spain, and forgot all our woes at</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a name="ill_004" id="ill_004"></a> -<a href="images/ill_005_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_005_sml.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>PATIO DE LOS LEONES.</p> - -<p> -[<i>To face p. 40.</i><br /> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Harriet Ford, 1832.</p></div> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">the first sight of the Albaicin, Generalife, and Alhambra, with the -cold, snowy, sparkling Sierra glistening in the blue cloudless sky. -Then such an <i>airecillo</i>: not the one in the <i>calle Alcalá</i> that -goes through your <i>Capa</i> and upper Benjamin in the twinkling of a -bedpost, but a mild, gentle, refreshing, reinvigorating breeze. -Then such a profusion of tree and water. General O’Lawlor, very -civil, has procured me the Governor’s suite of apartments in the -Alhambra, one staircase of which leads into the <i>Sala de los -Embajadores</i> (as aforesaid), where I hope and trust to have the -honour of receiving the present one of his B.M. The other leads to -the <i>Patio de los Leones</i>, which beat Pidcock’s lions, and are -lions worth seeing.</p> - -<p>All very quiet. They were prepared to rise had the thing succeeded -at Cadiz, but as that did <i>not</i>, they think little about it, but -eat their ices as usual.</p> - -<p>There has been a horrid execution here, which was calculated to -excite a revolution anywhere. A beautiful widow, connected with -high families, was <i>garrotted</i>, solely for a Constitutional flag, -with a half-embroidered motto, having been found in her possession. -She refused to give any account of it herself, or any accomplices. -The matter was sent to Madrid, and down came, to the equal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span> horror -and surprise of every one, an order for her execution! a woman -executed for such an offence <i>anno</i> 1831! They certainly manage -these things differently in Spain.</p> - -<p>If you come, you must do so <i>per diligence</i> to Andujar, and thence -ride in two days across the country with three or four of these -stout <i>Miquelites</i>. You will find every comfort in the inn, and I -am now constructing a sort of a grate, the sweet vision of Your -Excellency’s excellent, super-excellent, <i>rost-bif</i> ever floating -before my eyes as the hour of 6 approaches. I cannot promise such -fare as it was my lot to consume at Madrid, and which sent me back -to the conjugal embrace <i>Epicuri de grege porcum</i>. But you shall -dine in the fabled palace of the Moorish kings: the fountains shall -play, and a band of <i>Gitanas</i> shall dance their half-voluptuous -dance around you; you shall drink the purest, coldest water from -the Moorish cistern, which is opposite my window, and which I am -supplied with <i>gratis</i>: (it costing to the public an <i>ocharo per -cantaro</i>);<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> you shall eat the delicious ice, the <i>Queso de -albaricoqui</i>; and, last of all, a most hearty welcome from</p> - -<p class="r"> -S. S. S. y amigo,<br /> -R. F.<br /> -</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>P. S.—<i>Mr. Sᵗᵉ Barbe</i>, <i>el ingles afrancesado</i>, and Mr. de -Custine, <i>el Frances inglesado</i>, being duly dressed as <i>majos</i> by -Pindar of Seville, departed for Tariffa, where the Marquis tells me -he is going to write “some poem about the good Guzman.” They are -then coming here. I shall entertain them in the Alhambra, and be -immortalised in a note by this poetical Marquis.</p> - -<p>My wife thinks she can manage a room and a sort of a bed for you -and your man. It appears inhospitable in me to talk of the inn, but -the Alhambra is but a ruin; however, you shall choose yourself. -<i>Utrum horum mavis accipe.</i></p></div> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Alhambra</span>, <i>June 15 [1831]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am very sorry that, at this distance from my worthy friend the -<i>Assistente</i>, there is no chance of extracting from him the -information you want, which I think I could have managed at Seville -in a <i>careless</i> way. If I were to write to him, he would instantly -be alarmed, and attach great importance to it. I enclose a letter -to Lord Dudley for Mr. de Gersdorf (?) instead of one to Lord -Essex; a letter to Lord Essex would be of no use, for he has now -totally abandoned and shut up Cassiobury, which <i>was</i> very well -worth seeing when he lived there; secondly, he lives entirely in a -set of his own, and I know from long experience hates nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span> like -the sight of a foreigner;—as he expresses himself, “damn all -foreigners; none shall put their foot in my house.”</p> - -<p>I am comfortably settled here, after much painting and -whitewashing, and, if you can steal away from Madrid, can give you -a tidy bedroom and sitting-room, with a view out of the windows -quite unequalled. The difference in the thermometer here and in the -town below is some 6 or 8 degrees; then we have always such a -delicious breeze, and such a constant trickling and splashing of -fountains. I am sorry to say that the <i>Lions</i> are all adry, and the -flowers in the courtyard past dying; a wall fell down the other -day, which supported the aqueduct, which used to supply these cool -courts. They are fast repairing it, but it is a work of great -extent, and the Spaniards do not do things in an offhand style here -any more than at Madrid. We have had a rare party of English -Tigers, looking at the Lions; they flock out from Gibraltar, now -the communication is again open, and astonish the natives in their -red jackets, redder faces, and the quantity of undiluted wine they -consume. Captain Pascoe, a gentlemanlike man, <i>aide-de-camp</i> to -General Don, has been here.</p> - -<p>We are going to be regaled with more executions—two officers who -were found tampering with their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span> troops. (They deserve it; but poor -Mariana! who might have been spared.)</p> - -<p>It is impossible to describe, either by pen or pencil, the -extraordinary freshness and beauty of this spot, so take time by -the forelock, and, as Ovid says:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0"><i>Nil mihi rescribas, attamen, ipse veni.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Alhambra</span>, <i>Sunday, 14th June, /31</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am delighted to hear that you are really coming here; you will -find at least a clean bed, and a clean dinner, with no oil or -garlic.</p> - -<p>You must put up with the unfurnished, whitewashed sort of way we -are living in, which is unlike the gorgeous mansion in Alcala -Street.</p> - -<p>Everything is arranged, and you will find a <i>coche</i> at Andujar, and -a sufficient number of <i>Miquelites</i>. They have lately taken so many -robbers, executed some, banished others, that the road is quite -safe. I should recommend your buying some cigars at Andujar, which, -being duly distributed to the men, <i>majorals</i>, and innkeepers, will -act like magic. I expended a dollar in them on my journey, and am -celebrated in <i>los cuatro reinos</i> as the greatest and most affable -milor ever seen since the ‘grand Lord’ commanded in Spain.</p> - -<p>I have written to Downie, to get the inn ready for you, and to -provide, if possible, some partridges,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span> and not have you bothered -with ceremony, guards, or visits,—all which he nevertheless will -doubtless inflict on you, calculating by the Rule of 3 principle. -If he did such and such things for a simple milor, what will he do -for an <i>embajador</i>?</p> - -<p>I have duly instructed O’Lawlor on your being left quiet, which I -think you will be, at least in the Alhambra, as no Spaniard has -courage to face the hill, or any wish to see anything of their much -superior predecessors, the Moors.</p> - -<p>The 20th, or thereabouts, is the time to go up the Sierra Nevada. I -am thinking of taking my wife that trip, so you may imagine it is -not attended with much difficulty. It is a glorious mountain, -though the dog-days have played the devil with the snow. Still -there is enough left to swear by, and to cool one’s wine. By God’s -blessing, a quarter-cask of sherry has made its appearance in -Granada, otherwise you would have got nothing but <i>Bara</i>, a sort of -clarety-porty wine, not bad in water, but very disagreeable to -British officers, as they find it too weak to drink in goblets this -hot weather. The weather has been very hot, but getting -cooler,—down to 72 at night.</p> - -<p>You will have a terrible bad road to Jaen, and I should set out -very early, before 4, and get into<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span> Jaen before the great heat of -the day. Set out again early for Campillo de la Arena, half way to -Granada. I remained there four or five hours in the day, and came -on in the night, getting here very early in the morning. I would, -however, not recommend that to you. You had better sleep at -Campillo, where you will get <i>partridges</i>, on asking if there are -any to be bought in the village.</p> - -<p>By setting out betimes, you will get here in nine or ten hours, and -I will take care and have a <i>roast pavito</i> [young cock turkey], -which is equivalent to a London fowl, ready for you.</p> - -<p>My wife is frightened at the thoughts of our cuisine, but I assure -her that you are an ex-dyspeptic, and not very difficult, rather -more in that you do <i>not</i> eat than in what you do.</p> - -<p>My Spanish servant (who calls himself my <i>major duomo</i>) wants me to -borrow a service of plate, and have the dinners sent up from the -inn!! Lord deliver us! They are curious people, <i>muy Etiqueteros</i> -(I can’t even spell the word), and think we are as great asses as -themselves. What we have here are delicious eggs—laid under your -window, fine fruit, tolerable mutton, good bread and water, and a -jack for roasting, the only one in Granada, to say nothing of cool -breezes, cool fountains (though<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span> they don’t play), much shade, many -nightingales (though they don’t sing now), and plenty of snow, and -a view, from the windows and all about, passing all understanding; -but you will see with your own eyes and hear with your own ears, so -no more for the present.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Alhambra</span>, <i>June 22 [1831]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>I am going to give you proper and business-like answers to your six -questions, and I think satisfactory ones to all.</p> - -<p>1. The inn is the best in Spain, but very crowded and very <i>hot</i>, a -long way from the Alhambra, and all up hill—quite out of the -question, except early and late. You may, to be sure, ride up, and -General O’Lawlor will send you a horse whenever you want; but I -enclose you a plan of my dwelling up here, which is very spacious, -and where I can accommodate you well and without the least -inconvenience. You will then see the Alhambra in your -dressing-gown, cool and comfortable, and never get heated or tired. -You will, too, be within reach of the Generalife, which, if -possible, is more beautiful than the Alhambra. It is about as high -above the Alhambra as the Alhambra is above the town; but a -tolerable shady walk through fig-trees, vines and pomegranates.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span></p> - -<p>2. The getting here will be <i>easily</i> accomplished in a -<i>coche</i>—that is, every bone will be broken, but, however, get here -you will. I should take the <i>diligence</i> to Baylen, and thence in -one day to Jaen in the <i>coche</i>. The road, I am told, is tolerable. -I came from Andujar, which would be out of your way—the road the -most infernal ever seen. From Jaen to Granada it is magnificent; -Macadam never made a better, and the scenery most beautiful and -picturesque. We came in one day—that is, left Jaen early, 3 a.m., -arrived at Campillo de Arenas about 1, halted till 5, eating salad -and <i>Guisado de Perdices</i> at the Venta; thence <i>per</i> night to -Granada, where we arrived about 4 a.m. The whole journey from Jaen -takes about twenty hours <i>en route</i>. You might do it quicker -without <i>Miquelites</i>, as it is a long pull (seventeen leagues) for -men to walk in one day; thermometer at 3000, and up hill. Now if -your plans really do ripen into reality, what you should do is -this: let me know the day you leave Madrid; the third night you -will get to Andujar or Baylen. I will send over the identical -<i>coche</i> which brought us, a roomy one with four mules, and an -excellent <i>majoral</i>, who will buy you partridges at the Venta, etc. -The cost will be 29 dollars for the six days there and back. I will -manage with O’Lawlor that a troop of <i>Miquelites</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span> eight or nine, -shall be picked men, and sent with the <i>coche</i>. I gave them 25 -dollars for nine men eight days. They generally get a <i>pezeta</i> -apiece, but half a dollar is what they well deserve, as they are -fine fellows.</p> - -<p>3. I know the <i>commandante</i> at Jaen, who will choose the best. The -said <i>commandante</i>, Downie, the d—st bore in Jaen, Spain, or -anywhere, will call upon you and plague your heart out with bad -English, etc.</p> - -<p>My silver watch is excellent, and cost three dollars at Madrid. I -should think you might buy Mr. Pearson’s, who bought one too for -one dollar.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> - -<p>4. I hear there is some shooting here; but August is very hot, -except up in the Sierra Nevada, where I propose going, as the view -is superb—Mediterranean, Atlantic, Africa, etc. The Pico de Valeta -is easily ascended in August.</p> - -<p>5. The post comes in very regularly twice a week, and goes out the -day after—from Madrid in three days and a half. The letters do not -appear to be opened.</p> - -<p>6. Plenty of hats, white and black straw and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span> chip, in Granada; the -men here are the greatest dandies in Spain, and are not at all ill -dressed.</p> - -<p>I should not think you will be much bothered. O’Lawlor is a -sensible man, and does not bore one, but is very civil, and will be -of great use in every way, and a <i>banker</i> besides. As he has to -remit money to the Duke of Wellington, he is glad of good bills on -London.</p> - -<p>Your journey here will take you six days; there is not much, I -believe, in Granada to be seen. I seldom go there, except in the -cool dark night, to eat ices. <i>This</i> is the place; you will <i>see</i> -it in a morning; but the more one lives in it, the more delightful -it is. The walks about are charming. If you live in the town, you -will not see much more of the Alhambra than those brutes the -natives, who think it <i>fabrica antiqua, obra de los arabes</i>, to -which they seem to have an antipathy.</p> - -<p>You must make up your mind to fare but indifferently here when -compared to your own good <i>ménage</i>; but we can, at all events, -serve you up a clean dinner, and without any poisonous matters. At -all events you must not think of going to the inn; you may as well -stay where you are, as far as the Alhambra is concerned.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Ever most sincerely, <br /> -<span class="smcap">Rich. Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>July 27 [1831]</i>, <span class="smcap">Alhambra</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am afraid, as you say nothing about your journey to Granada, that -you have had bad news from home; all work and no play. How unlucky -all this business about the free trade of Cadiz, and the voluminous -speculations thereon by my friend the Proconsul; to say nothing of -despatches from Hopner to plague your heart out. Well, well! <i>no -tiene remedio</i>. I only mention all this, as it is considered -unlucky here not to ascend the <i>Pico de Valeta</i> about this time, in -some of these three or four “glorious days” of July, glorious Dog -Days; <i>son en canicula</i>. However, we managed to keep our -thermometer under 80, which is not more than the heat at Paris, as -I see <i>per</i> Galignani—for which accept my greatest thanks—that -true pabulum of an Englishman. The three received yesterday were -very amusing: the debate on the reform, Macaulay’s essay -oratorical, Porchester’s discourse peninsular and historical, -Wetherell droll and coarsish, some <i>lucid intervals</i>, as was said -of that part of his shirt which always appears between his breeches -and waistcoat; Peel sentential and sonorous in the Joseph Surface -school; and bravo! old Sir Francis Burdett, who gave him a sound -drubbing. For all that, I would vote against the bill, professing -myself a <i>bit by bit</i> reformer. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span> Tories may thank themselves, -for the people could not but see, after that Bassetlaw job,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> -that they would do nothing for them.</p> - -<p>Monʳ de Sᵗᵉ Barbe and A. Custine, Esq., have duly started for -Madrid with his unfinished MSS. By speaking bad English, the one is -forgetting his French—the other, the wholesome vernacular tongue -as expressed in Hampshire. I don’t think they took kindly to the -Alhambra; however, you will see and hear. I have begged the Marquis -de Sᵗᵉ Barbe to give you some account of my <i>Local</i> and poor means -of receiving so great a personage as your Excellency. I can only -say that it will be <i>con muchisimo agrado</i>. Mrs. Ford has got a -Pajes,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> and there is a dark glancing Spaniard washing clothes in -the Alhambra, to whom you may pour forth your amatory <i>rondeñas</i>.</p> - -<p>I rather think that, about the middle of September, I shall come up -to Madrid with my spouse for a very few days, show her Toledo and -the Escurial, and return by a short cut (to diddle <i>Castaños</i>)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span> -through Zaragoça, Barcelona, and Valencia. This little trip will -occupy very well a couple of the autumnal months; and then on to -Malaga; and should any rows take place, and the consular protection -of the apostolic Mark be insufficient, I shall place myself under -the batteries of Gibraltar: so much for plans. If you have time, -you may let me have a line as to yours, whether we have any chance -of your visit. You really should come, for, depend on it, the old -woman of the Alhambra, in whose house we are living, will never let -the Governor turn her out again, and if you do not live in the -Alhambra, you may as well remain in the Calle de Alcalá.</p></div> - -<p>During Addington’s stay at the Alhambra, Ford, his wife, and their guest -ascended the Picacho de la Veleta, “the watch-point,” the second highest -peak (12,459 feet) of the Sierra Nevada. The greater part of the ascent -to the top of the conical peak, about twenty miles, was ridden, the -party sleeping for the night at the Cortijo del Puche.</p> - -<p>After Addington had left, the Fords started (September 9th, 1831) on an -expedition to eastern Spain, Mrs. Ford on a donkey, her husband on -horseback, and their servant Pasqual in a one-horse, two-wheeled, -covered cart. They made their way over the mountains by Elche, the “City -of Palms,” to Alicante; thence by San Felipe de Xativa, the birthplace -of Ribera (Spagnoletto) and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span> Pope Alexander VI., and the prison of his -son Cæsar Borgia, to Valencia.</p> - -<p>At Valencia Ford stayed several days, delighting in the pictures of -Vicente Joanes<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> and Francisco Ribalta.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> Thence he made his way by -Murviedro (Saguntum) to Tarragona and Barcelona. On the road from -Barcelona to Tarragona they turned aside to see Montserrat, spent a -night in the convent on the jagged saw-like hills, dropped down on -Manresa and the famous <i>cueva de san Ignacio</i>, visited the salt mines at -Cardona, rejoined the high road and the <i>diligence</i>, and so reached -Zaragoza.</p> - -<p>Zaragoza, the pilgrim city of Arragon, “the Ephesus of Mariolatry,” as -Ford calls it in his <i>Handbook</i>, has two cathedrals, the <i>Seu</i>, and <i>El -Pilar</i>. The latter marks the spot where the Virgin, standing on a jasper -pillar, bade St. James build a chapel in her honour. At the time of -Ford’s visit to the city its houses were still riddled and pitted with -shot-marks. They were the honourable scars of two memorable sieges, of -which Agustina, “La Artillera,” the maid of Zaragoza who snatched the -match from a dying artilleryman and fired upon the French, and Tio -Jorge, “Gaffer George,” who organised the peasants for the defence, were -the real heroes. The first siege lasted from June 15th to August 15th, -1808. Led, as they believed, by the Virgin of the Pillar, the -inhabitants fought with desperate courage. It was in the convent of -Santa Engracia that the French effected a lodgment. On August 15th, -those of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span> the invaders who survived had retreated, after blowing up the -monastery and leaving it in ruins. The attack was renewed on December -20th. Four marshals of France directed the operations of the siege. Shot -and shell, plague and famine, did their work within the walls. On -February 20th, 1809, after holding out for sixty-two days, Zaragoza -surrendered to Marshal Lannes.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Saturday, 3rd Sept. [1831]</i>, <span class="smcap">Alhambra</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I hope you got quite safely to Andujar in that tremendous machine -you started in. We are off on Thursday for Alicante: Pasqual in a -<i>Tartana</i>, wife on the <i>Burra</i>, and your humble servant on -<i>Cavallo</i>. With a troop of Miquelites we shall, I trust, get safely -to Alicante, and publish in due time a rival account of Mr. -Inglis,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> another traveller <i>ingles</i>.</p> - -<p>My wife kisses your hands, I your feet, offering you my -kitchenmaid, four children, and the <i>Burra</i>, and anything else.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Valencia</span>, <i>Saturday, 24 Sept. [1831]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>We arrived here yesterday, having ridden from Granada to Alicante, -and thence to Xativa, a most magnificent mountain ride, full of old -towns, perched on rocks, and sheltered by ruined castles, narrow -defiles, precipices and torrents. The accommodation and roads -infinitely better<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span> than we had been led to expect, so that my wife, -riding on the foal of an ass, arrived at Alicante hardly fatigued.</p> - -<p>San Philipe de Xativa is one of the most picturesque towns in -Spain, not even excepting Granada. The famous country about -Valencia may be very fertile, and rich, and extremely agreeable to -the eye of the proprietor, but very little so to the traveller, as -the mulberry and olive trees on each side of the road, in so flat a -country, completely intercept the view.</p> - -<p>I see in the papers that you have had to interfere for some English -artist, who was taken up for sketching the Palace at Madrid, which -you will probably have to do some day for me, as I was nearly taken -to the Alcalde for drawing some palm trees at Elche; but, on -telling the officer that he and the Alcalde might go to <i>Carrajo</i>, -and refusing to go, the thing passed off; to be sure, I had six of -the Alhambra invalids with me, and might have ordered them to bring -the Alcalde to me, which would have been the best way after all. I -shall remain here four or five days, and thence proceed to -Barcelona and Zaragoça, to either of which places, if any crumbs of -comfort fall from your table in the way of Galignani, they may be -addressed, at all events to the latter place, Zaragoça.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span></p> - -<p>I left Dionysia in great force, and Don José much delighted at the -honour of your Excellency’s visit. The Captain-General wrote me two -notes after you were gone, one addressed to me as <i>Gentilhombre de -S. M. Britanica</i> and the second to Lord Ricardo Fort. There is no -saying what I might not have come to be had I remained there a few -days longer.</p> - -<p>Valencia seems to be a nice place; the women as pretty here as the -Granadinas are ugly.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Ever most truly yours, <br /> -<span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Valencia</span>, <i>Wed., 28th [Sept. 1831]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>Here we are still, and shall remain until Friday, when we go over -to Murviedro, to potter about the ruined Saguntum till the Saturday -<i>diligence</i> comes through to take us on to Tarragona. As far as my -<i>finances</i> are concerned, I had perhaps better not have come here, -for I have been tempted by a certain picture of Ribalta, and have -given 11,000 reals for it, a large sum here, or anywhere; but it is -a stupendous picture, and of the very grandest finest class, and -worth £500. However, tell not this in Gath or Askalon, for I always -make it a rule <i>crier au pauvre</i>, which an extravagance like this -would infallibly contradict. I have just<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span> written to that worthy -Israelite, Ravasa, to send me a credit of 4000 reals to Zaragoça, -Burgos, and Valladolid in case of accidents, and have referred him -again to you to say a word as to my being a <i>solvent</i> person, -though I am afraid, after the Gold Rosario of the Senora and the -Ribalta of Milor, you will rather hesitate this time. However, if -you still think me responsible, write a line to Ravasa to tell him -that he may venture his monies, and that I will honestly repay him -when I reach Madrid.</p> - -<p>We go to Barcelona, and by Zaragoça and Segovia to Madrid, where I -hope we shall arrive about the first week in November.</p> - -<p>This is a very nice place, and I regret that it is impossible to -convey my <i>impedimenta</i> here, as I should much have liked to have -spent the winter here, instead of Gibraltar, where I take refuge to -escape the protection of His M. Consul at Malaga, from whom I have -had such a letter which I am keeping for your amusement. Chico’s -motto of “there is no conqueror but God”<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> is nothing to the -account Mark gives of himself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span></p> - -<p>The pictures they possess here are endless, almost as many as at -Seville; but, if possible, even still more neglected and unknown, -not unknown only by the natives, but by the dignitaries and heads -of the churches, and going to ruin from neglect, damp, dust, and -smoke. No information of any kind is ever to be obtained; “<i>No sé</i>” -[I don’t know] the universal answer. The fine pictures are kept -merely as objects of idolatry, not as matters of art, and called as -such; if you ask for the Virgin of Juanes, the sacristan or curate -knows nothing about it; but ask for the <i>Purissima</i> and up goes a -curtain in a minute.</p> - -<p>The women are very pretty indeed, fairer than the Andalucians, -quite as small feet and much better shoes, not so tight or pointed. -I do not know when the seventh commandment has run such risks.</p> - -<p>To-morrow, Friday, we go to Murviedro and thence to Barcelona.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Ever most sincerely, <br /> -<span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Barcelona</span>, <i>Oct. 9</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Your letter with the papers reached this place quite safely, as did -we some four or five days ago; and, being heartily tired of these -Catalonians, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span> are neither Spaniards nor French, are going to -set out to-morrow for the Salt Mountain at Cardona and the -monastery of Monserrat, and thence to Zaragoça, where we expect to -arrive the 16th, and proceed directly afterwards to Madrid, as we -find we shall have much difficulty in crossing the country to -Burgos. I hope we may manage to get to <i>La Corte</i> about Saturday, -the 22nd, <i>si Dios quiere</i> [God willing], and shall be both proud -and happy to be installed in the Duchess’s dry dock.</p> - -<p>This is a fine town, but not Spanish. The troops have shoes instead -of sandals, and, I believe, stockings. They can roast at the inn, -and have mustard and French wines. The women wear mantillas over -caps, and commit divers other equally un-Spanish atrocities; people -stupid and ill-mannered; a horrid language; all the discomforts and -prohibitions of Spain, without being made up for by the curious and -original people of the South; women ugly and coarse; men in large -high trousers, looking like Cruickshank’s prints of “nobody, all -legs.” Everything in perfect order and quiet. The name of the Conde -de España does here what that of Quesada does in Andalucia. They -are all frightened about the cholera, and the quarantine -regulations most severe. The Captain-General has sent to England -for <i>four gallons</i> of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span> Cajeput oil, which for a population of more -than 100,000 is a fair stock.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Zaragoça</span>, <i>Oct. 18</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>We arrived here quite safely on Sunday in a tremendous storm of -rain, having stuck in the mud divers times during our journey, and -being extricated by the spades of peasants and many supplications -to the <i>Santissima Virgen del Pilar</i>, whose effigy I have bought in -consequence.</p> - -<p>On our arrival here, to my utter dismay and discomfiture, I found -no letter from V. E., and, worse, no letter of credit from that -arch-circumcised dog, Ravisa, to whom I had written from Valencia -at the same time as I wrote you, but which letters must, from some -Spanish mismanagement, have never reached their destination. Well! -here we are with about 800 reals in our pocket,—no means of -getting any more, the bill to pay, and the places to Madrid some -600 or 700 more. I had, like a fool, refused a letter of credit -from my Barcelona banker, trusting to that Philistine Ravisa. -Henceforward I have vowed before the <i>Pilar</i> of Zaragoça never to -trust to Jew or Christian again. In this quandary, the post to-day -from Madrid having brought no letter, I have despatched my -eloquent, mellifluous-tongued Pasqual, who has persuaded<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span> the -<i>diligence</i> to take us to Madrid without our paying here, my wife, -Pasqual, and the luggage to be detained in pledge at the office -until the dollars are regularly booked up. It would be a rare -opportunity for a husband who wanted to break up his establishment -to leave these tender pledges unredeemed; but I do not propose -doing so if your Excellency will interfere, and this is <i>dignus -vindice nodus</i>. My plan is to start on Friday; we are to arrive at -Madrid on Sunday, time uncertain, somewhere between 12 and 5. Will -you therefore be so good as to put up 600 or 700 reals in a paper -directed to me, and leave it with your porter? I shall get out at -the P. de Alcalá, pass your door, take the cash, and hasten to -liberate the pledges from the magazines of the <i>diligence</i>, and -proceed from their prison to the sumptuous quarters you have -prepared for us.</p> - -<p>We made an interesting tour into the mountains on leaving -Barcelona, first to Monserrat, where we slept in the convent, and -spent the next day in wandering about the rocks and hermitages,—a -most wonderful rock, and scenery well worth of itself the journey -to Monserrat from Granada. Thence we proceeded to Manresa, and on -to Cardona to the celebrated Salt Mountain, which stands out of the -ground like a huge lump of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span> <i>confiture</i>, peach, apricot, and lemon, -all candied over with little pearly globules of salt—a true -Spanish mine, as they have absolutely nothing to do but knock off -lumps, put them into a bag, pound them and eat them—no salt-pans, -refining, corporations, or any other tedious processes. Thence we -rode over a wild mountain, sometimes up the bed of dry rivers, -sometimes through torrents, generally over rock, and never over -road, to Igualada, and so on in the <i>diligence</i> to Zaragoça, a -gloomy, old, dirty, brick-built town, but truly Spanish; many -things very well worth seeing—the Virgen del Pilar and the -positions during the siege, the great lions. As to the siege, they -seem neither to know nor care much about it, though, really, here -the Spaniards might be proud of their truly Moorish exploits of -<i>fighting well behind a wall</i>. I met two well-dressed men on the -walk to Sᵗᵃ Engracia, and made Pasqual ask them (to prevent the -possibility of being misunderstood) where Sᵗᵃ Engracia was, and, -though it was close by, and the famous Quartel of the French, they -shrugged their shoulders with the true Spanish shrug, and muttered -out the usual true meaning of said shrug—<i>No sé!</i> Fine, honest, -downright simplicity of ignorance! <i>Viva la España, viva la Stˢᵃ Vⁿ -del Pilar y S.E. mille años!</i> But do not forget <i>los 600 reales</i>; -for, if my wife<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span> is knocked down for a dollar at the <i>diligence</i> -sale of unredeemed pledges, it will be entirely the fault of the -want of these 600 <i>reales</i>. So farewell.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Ever most sincerely, <br /> -<span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<p>A letter dated Saturday, November 19th, 1831, announces the return of -Ford and his wife to the Alhambra.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>We arrived safely at the Alhambra this afternoon, after rather an -uncomfortable ride from Andujar. As you predicted it would rain, it -did, and we got into Jaen wet one evening to set out the next -morning in a Scotch mist, which lasted all the way to Campillo, -where we put up in the worst posada in Spain, which pray commend to -Col. Oxholm, who has a list of them. At Jaen we saw Don Carlos -[Downie], whose heart, body, and soul are at your service. I called -on the <i>Intendente</i> to enquire after his precious health, and -praise his cigars, both of which he felt, as he ought, highly -flattered, and Jaen is at your <i>disposicion</i>, whenever you choose -to have it.</p> - -<p>Don Carlos very fat, talking bad English and worse Spanish, -delighted with your visit and the dinner he gave you, which was, -like his <i>Tertulia</i>, a contribution from all the houses in Jaen, as -he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span> sent round to everybody to say the great man was to dine with -him, and begging them to send him their best wine and the best dish -of their own dinner to his. I did not see “God’s Face,” which is -only shewn to representatives of Kings and Bishops.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p> - -<p>We rode a pretty ride from Campillo this morning through Benalua, -which you may inform the Duchess of San Lorenzo is in a high state -of preservation; a sort of town on the side of a hill, which looks -as if giants had been pelting each other with pigsties.</p> - -<p>At Valdepeñas we fell in with three ’pon-honourish, well-fleshed -English, journeying on to the Corte, a trio, which will relieve you -when you have had enough of <i>duets</i>, the order of travelling in -Spain since the unnatural alliance of those modern Pyladeses and -Oresteses, St. Barbe and Custine, Eden<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> and Martin, Meara and -Heaphy, all hunting in couples, to say nothing of a more proper -marital couple, who have lately drawn so largely on your -good-nature and hospitality.</p> - -<p>I have not had time to throw myself at the feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span> of Dionysia, being -fully occupied with the joys of paternity, having a small -boarding-school now romping about, to the utter discomfiture of any -intelligible writing or spelling.</p> - -<p>Pray let us hear of that horrid cholera, whether the last news in -Galignani is confirmed. The smallest donations in that way -thankfully received.</p> - -<p>Excuse this scrawl, which is just to notify to you that we have -escaped José Maria and Botiga, and are always your secure servants. -What a sheet of paper to write, as Don Carlos says, “to such a -great man as we never had in Jaen.” You will become a Carlista.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br /><br /> -SEVILLE REVISITED<br /><br /> -DECEMBER 1831-DECEMBER 1832</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Return to Seville—Execution of Torrijos—Question of Spanish -Intervention in the Affairs of Portugal—Tarifa—Salamanca and -North-Western Spain—Succession to the Spanish Crown.</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> December the Fords returned from the Alhambra to a house which they -had taken in the Calle de los Monsalvos at Seville. There they spent the -winter of 1831-2. A letter dated December 10th, 1831, announces their -return, and their life resumed its previous course.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>We have at length arrived here safely, God be praised! through the -deepest ploughed fields, worst <i>Ventas</i>, and stoutest gangs of -robbers in all Spain. We have been six mortal days on the journey, -doing some 36 leagues at an expense of 6000 or 7000 reals, having -to feed 29 persons every night, ravenous wolves who never ate -before and probably never will again, unless some <i>Milor</i> or -<i>Embajador</i> should make that journey. José Maria was <i>muy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span> -politico</i>, and neither the chink of my dollars nor the black eye -and red lip of Sarah could tempt him to come down from a hill, -where we saw him and his drawn up in a line about a mile off, as we -passed through <i>his</i> country—his it is in every sense of the word.</p> - -<p>When we passed through Jaen, we saw Don Carlos [Downie], who -regaled us with good English and better wine of the country, of -which he had prepared a choice barrel to be sent to your Excellency -<i>q. Dios guarde y Lord Palmerston</i>.</p> - -<p>I have got into a magnificent house, larger even than yours, and -very comfortable in every respect. It belongs to the Mˢ. de la -Granja, who, I believe, is General O’Neil (being interpreted). If -so, make my respects to him, and tell him I will use it well, and -pay the rent duly and truly on the appointed days, and it is such a -rent as will enable him to cut a figure at the <i>Corte</i>. Don José -[O’Lawlor] invited us to dinner, to our great surprise; grand -dinner <i>de cent Couverts</i>, to meet fiscals and the Lord knows who; -the dinner not bad, as he is a wise man, and knows how to deal with -Englishmen.</p> - -<p>Famous shooting here, I am told—snipe, woodcock, rabbit, -<i>chorlito</i> [curlew or gray plover], <i>alcaravan</i> [bittern], -bustards, etc. So if you like to put yourself in the <i>diligence</i>, -here is a <i>Casa</i> at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span> your <i>disposicion</i>, a warm, sunny suite of -rooms, and a decent bottle of sherry; an excellent clergyman, a -friend of mine, will provide you with books at a monthly -subscription. Captain Heaphy and his hairsplitting prigmatic friend -have, thank God! passed through into the keeping of that great man, -Don Brackenbury. I met the Polish polished Russian Cheffhttinschkwi -on his way up to the Alhambra. I could be of no use to him -<i>unfortunately</i>, as I was going to leave the town the next morning. -Captain Martin and Sir Eden are daily expected here. The <i>Gallego</i> -Standish has bought two pictures here at tremendous prices—a -Murillo £400, a Velazquez £200.</p> - -<p>Have you ascertained the exact use of those curious spears we saw -in the Armeria? I conclude, when you have, you will draw on me by -the hands of that worthy Israelite, Don Ravarra or Ravisa (I forget -which, though often lectured for it by you), and I will duly honour -the bill.</p> - -<p>My wife begs to thank you for the good-natured way you put up with -the inconvenience a marital pair must have inflicted on your B.A. -habits.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Dec. 27, 1831.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>My wife is very far from well, in a sad state of nervousness and -weakness, the result of over-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span>excitement in travelling and -over-exertions in drawing in the Alhambra. The doctors leave all to -<i>naturaleza</i> and asses’ milk, having a congenial feeling for that -animal.</p> - -<p>Sir Eden and Captain Martin are here, having taken up their winter -quarters in Seville.</p> - -<p>I am only awaiting an answer from my landlord, General O’Neil, to -put up a fireplace in the Quarto, which is destined for my -<i>despacho</i> [office] and for your habitation when you come here in -the spring. I wished to make a necessary, a roasting jack, and this -fireplace, three things rather usual, and thought in England to be -rather necessary, in large houses. I have had great difficulty with -the <i>administrador</i>, who, after offering me his house, kissing my -hand, and laying himself at my wife’s feet, proceeded rather to -protest against these innovations, viewing them in the light of -dilapidations, especially the <i>comun</i>, which he assured me no -<i>clean Spaniard</i> would use, as they preferred a pan in their -bedrooms, and that, when I left the house, he should be at the -expense of restoring matters to their former state of comfort and -cleanliness.</p> - -<p>The jack, however, is up, and the turkeys are roasting.</p> - -<p>The weather is delicious, fine clear sky, 66 and 67 in the sun, -open windows and doors, and plenty<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span> of dry crackling olive-wood -(cheap) for the mornings and evenings.</p> - -<p>Don Julian [Williams] in great force, in a consular coat with G.R. -buttons, which would shame an ambassador. We are going to Cadiz -(Don Julian and I) on a visit to a still greater man, Don Brackʸ., -to taste sherry at Xeres, and look after a few pictures. The -Alhambra we left in a <i>cruel</i> state of repair, the <i>Patio de -Leones</i> and <i>Sala de los Abencerrages</i> one mass of ruin, rubbish, -and dirt. They are re-tiling the whole of it, and the ladders of -the <i>presidarios</i> [convicts] are every day knocking off part of the -delicate stucco work. The Governor is going to repair the wall, and -remove the garden from the <i>Patio</i>. They say the powder will be -removed from the Palace of Carlos V. As the Spaniards do not work -with the rapidity of lightning, I take it a stray <i>Rayo</i> may get -the start of them, and send old Frascita and Dolorosita to the -devil.</p></div> - -<p>Once more political troubles disturbed Ford’s peace. So long as General -Torrijos remained safe in his refuge at Gibraltar, he was a source of -uneasiness to the Government. A trap was set to lure him to Spanish -soil. A former friend, General Vicente Gonsalez Moreno, Captain-General -of Malaga, opened a correspondence with him, professing Liberal -sympathies, and promising the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span> support of the troops. With about fifty -companions, among whom was a young Irishman named Robert Boyd, Torrijos -landed near Malaga, December 4th, 1831. Moreno was prepared for their -arrival. The farmhouse in which the party sheltered for the night was -surrounded by soldiers. Resistance was useless, and Torrijos and his -friends surrendered the following morning. Six days later, Sunday, -December 11th, all the prisoners were drawn up on the beach below the -Carmen Convent at Malaga, and shot. Moreno was rewarded by being made -Captain-General of Granada. Disgraced by Queen Christina, he -subsequently joined the Carlists, and was murdered at Urdax, September -6th, 1839, by some Navarrese soldiers, in the act of escaping to France. -It is said that he begged for a confessor and a brief respite. The only -answer to his prayer was that he should have such mercy as he had -himself shown to Torrijos, and he was instantly bayoneted and shot.</p> - -<p>Every reasonable effort was made by Mark, Addington, and Lord -Palmerston, to save Robert Boyd. But it was in vain. Boyd was the first -person buried in the Protestant cemetery outside Malaga, to the east of -the town. Up to this time Protestants who died at Malaga were buried on -the sea-shore beyond low-water mark. The new burial ground, laid out by -Mark, the British Consul, was the first spot in Spain which the -authorities allowed to be enclosed for the interment of heretics.</p> - -<p>The death of Torrijos relieved the Government from one danger. But -another cause of anxiety<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span> arose. Spain threatened to intervene in the -affairs of Portugal. In April 1831 Dom Pedro resigned the throne of -Brazil, and returned to Europe to vindicate the Constitutional Charter, -and restore to his daughter, Maria da Gloria, the crown which the -Regent, her uncle, Dom Miguel, had seized. In July 1832 Pedro occupied -Oporto, and held it for a year against all the attacks of Dom Miguel, -both by land and sea. Spain at first favoured the cause of Miguel and -the Absolutists. Her army of observation was assembling on the frontier; -armed intervention seemed imminent. But the health of Ferdinand VII. was -failing fast. At his death, it was plain that the crown would be claimed -by Don Carlos, who was in avowed sympathy with Miguel. Christina saw -that she must rally to her daughter’s support the Spanish Moderates, and -she was disinclined to aid the Portuguese Government to crush the party -on which she herself was relying in Spain. Thus the danger of war was -averted.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Janʸ. 11, 1832</i>, <span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I have had a magnificent, <i>grandis Epistola</i> from Mark, who is gone -wild about the Malaga events, and the execution of Mr. Boyd. In his -heart, I believe he was as glad as a young surgeon to get a subject -for his new churchyard. He certainly has a hankering after my -wife’s body, not her live body, but, hearing of her ill health, -tried all in his power to get me to Malaga to have a pretty female -specimen in his sepulchral museum. I must try<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span> and get you a copy -of a letter, which is circulating here, from one of the monks of -the convent, where the victims were taken, to a friend here. Mark -is mentioned as coming in a <i>coche</i> in uniform to take Mr. Boyd’s -body, over which he read prayers. Mark’s Epistle concludes with -crumbs of comfort for you. “No man of honour can be otherwise than -disgusted in serving near such men as are seen in command here, and -I shall use all possible means in my power <i>to quit the country</i> as -soon as it can be done.” <i>Feliz viage y vaya v. con Dios</i>. Meantime -he threatens me with a visit, <i>cum duodecim Marcis</i>, pretty dears, -who will certainly convey their sweet persons to the <i>Fonda</i>, as I -can’t take in woman-kind.</p> - -<p>The weather is most delicious here, sunny and balmy, and winter is -gone. I am meditating a shooting excursion with Martin and Eden, -not having the fear of José Maria in my eyes. I understand the -officers kidnapped near Gibraltar have paid the fine; they had much -better cross over to Africa, where both travelling and shooting, -and indeed all the comforts of civilised life, are much more easily -obtained than in Spain.</p> - -<p>José Maria has sent to Quesada, offering to give up business on -being secured a pardon; I suspect he has sold the <i>goodwill</i> of his -vocation to his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span> second in command, one Juan Cavallero. Quesada -told me this, and that he took no notice of the application. -Everybody here outrageous at Don Moreno and the <i>Deshonra</i> on -Spanish <i>buena fé</i>!! The English papers you are so beneficent as to -send me, as usual, are gone stark staring crazy about Don Boyd. -Certainly, if anybody of the party deserved shooting, it is a -meddling <i>Foreigner</i>, who must have known the existence of the -decree under which all rebels, taken <i>in flagrante delicto</i>, were -liable to summary punishment.</p> - -<p>I have taken no steps about your wine yet, as the dealer has shown -somewhat of the <i>Moreno</i>, a little <i>mala fé</i>, in some transactions -I have had with him. I hope soon to go to Xeres, and will then -taste all the wines in all the cellars, till I am carried off dead -drunk.</p> - -<p>My wife does not mend, and I am rather uneasy about her, and shall -be more so, if this delightful change of weather does nothing. I -shall take her down to Cadiz and try sea air, <i>sub consule Branco</i>, -who is detained at Gibraltar, not daring to go by land, as, if they -could catch a <i>consul</i>, they would ask more ransom than for the -whole staff of Sir Houston.</p> - -<p>We are all crazy here about pictures, such buying and selling. By -the time Mecænas Standish and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span> that eminent connoisseur, Captain -Cook, arrive, the market will be cleaned out. Sir William Eden is -<i>muy pegajoso</i> and <i>bizarro</i> [very attractive and full of spirits]. -I did not suspect that he was such an amateur and collector. In -short, we are buying things here at double what they are worth in -England.</p> - -<p>I have received splendid letters from the Mˢ de la Granja and his -<i>sobrino</i>, the Colonel. The Marques in a sad way about the -dilapidations of jacks, fireplaces, and <i>comun</i>, damned English -revolutionary nuisances. The poor <i>administrador</i> quite frantic -about changes in a house, which had remained in genuine discomfort -since the days of the Moors,—an argument he thought to put me and -my fire out with. “If,” says he, “these things had been wanted, the -very great families who always have lived here would have done -them.”</p> - -<p>Meantime, whenever you like to come here, you can really be -decently lodged and fed, and return by Badajoz and Talavera, a very -interesting route.</p> - -<p>We are expecting the Conde de los Andes here from Granada, where -Don Moreno, the “complete Spanish letter writer,” goes to replace -him.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Saturday 14th</i> [<i>Jan. 1832</i>], <span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I think I can assure you, on the best authority, that no troops -have been sent from this place, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span> from hereabouts, to the -Portuguese frontier, and that, rather, they are diminishing than -increasing their forces, disbanding the militia regiments. At the -cannon foundry they are occupied more in repairs than in casting -cannon. I believe they have about a hundred pieces ready, with -carriages, etc., etc.</p> - -<p>Here all is, as usual, perfectly quiet and tranquil, I have seen -several persons this day, all of whom give the same account of the -absence of all military movements.</p> - -<p>There has been a fulsome address voted by the Chapter of the -Cathedral of Malaga to Don Moreno, which, with his reply, has been -printed. I am sorry Don Julio O’Niel considers me so troublesome; -but he will think otherwise when the term expires and he loses so -good a tenant and so excellent a rent. He has a sad character here -as to money matters, and as for his <i>administrador</i> he is still -more; <i>arcades ambo</i>.</p> - -<p>We have had very fine weather lately, and I am meditating a week’s -shooting with Los Señores Eden and Martin, as we hear rare accounts -of the woodcocks.</p> - -<p>My wife does not mend. The doctors come daily, take their fee, and -say all must be <i>dejado a la Naturaleza</i>. Of what use are they, -then?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span></p> - -<p>I am sorry you see so many clouds brewing for the Easter week, as -we shall have a dull Carnival, and none of the Saints and -Saintesses will come out in the streets. Even war will be better -than the cholera.</p> - -<p>I have no news here. The days glide on in a sort of <i>far niente</i>, -with the tinkling of my wife’s guitar, and the crying of my -nursery, all of whose teeth have taken to plague them and their -parents. These are blessings you know not. <i>Fortunati nimium.</i></p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Feb. 1 [1832]</i>, <span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Captain Martin and Eden are setting out for Badajoz and Lisbon, -where they will probably get into some disagreeable scrape; rather -a bad time to visit Portugal, to say nothing of the wet rain and -cold Ventas.</p> - -<p>We have an arrival of three officers from the garrison, two of -which were of the party taken up into the mountains by José Maria, -who wanted to rob them again, as, hearing they were at Xeres, he -proceeded yesterday to rob the <i>diligence</i>, thinking to catch them; -but they had luckily taken the steamer. This is a serious system -for travellers, now he finds the English will pay handsome ransoms.</p> - -<p>There is an order come here to prepare thirty<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span> cannon <i>forthwith</i>. -The number they have quite ready, with men, mules, etc., is not -above eight or ten; but I am told, if money was forthcoming, they -could soon get ready above a hundred. No troops have moved from -this place.</p> - -<p>The Conde de los Andes has not arrived here yet; I heard from Don -José [O’Lawlor], who is now performing the functions of -Captain-General at Granada, that Dionysia is rather ailing.</p> - -<p>We are all here going on in the usual humdrum way, <i>sin novedad</i>, -and without any news. The weather mild and open. The swallows -flying about, and the storks looking out for lodgings on the church -towers, all of which, the learned say, is a sign that winter is -over.</p> - -<p>I am expecting Shirreff from Gibraltar, to occupy the <i>Sala del -Embajador</i> in my <i>Palacio</i>, where I hope in the summer you will -come and take up your quarters. They tell me this is a most -delicious summer house, and that Seville and the <i>Andaluças</i> should -be seen in the genial month of May or June.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Wednesday, 15 Feb. 1832</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>They are all in a bustle here with <i>warlike</i> movements and -preparations; artillery ordered off to Badajoz, infantry and -cavalry to Salamanca. I heard to-day that the militia regiments and -the Royalists are to be called out. Some of the troops<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span> went -to-day, and others are to follow to-morrow. The <i>partidas</i> [parties -of soldiers] which were in <i>José Maria’s</i> country are coming in, -and <i>he</i> will then be <i>de facto</i> absolute king of the countries -between Cadiz, Sevilla, and Granada. They say General Monet, of -Algeciras, a General O’Donnel, and the Captain-General of -Valladolid, are to command this <i>cordon sanitaire</i> on the frontiers -of Portugal. All this will probably be stale news to you. I do not -think they can send much very effective stuff from hence, either in -cavalry, artillery, or troops. The <i>pesetas</i> are unusually scarce, -and the <i>derechos de Puerta</i> [tolls, <i>octrois</i>] weighing everybody -down. The Conde de los Andes has been here for a few days, and is -now gone back to his Quartel at Cadiz. Captain Martin and Sir -William Eden will be in the thick of the row, as they started some -ten days ago for Badajoz, with the intention of going on to -Portugal. If they fall into the hands of that truculent youth, Dom -Miguel, you will have to claim them, if alive, and Mark, if dead, -for his new burying ground. That eminent undertaker is on his way -to visit <i>me</i> and Seville. I am much honoured, and only regret that -you should not be here to gain a “few hints” as to governing -Spaniards.</p> - -<p>I am quite sorry that you are bothered with so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span> many -“suspicious-looking letters” for me. They are quite as unwelcome to -me. One of them was from a Valentian <i>azulejo</i> [tile] manufacturer, -begging me to intercede with you to get him an order for painted -tiles from the Grand Señor at Constantinople. Many thanks for the -papers. The debate very interesting. Lord Aberdeen seems to be gone -demented, and the great Duke, if weak in body, perfectly sound in -his intellect. I suspect my friends the Whigs are rather at a -discount. There must be a screw loose. The only good of all these -<i>trastornos</i> [disturbances] is the exchange on England being so -delightfully low. They are, here and at Cadiz, looking out for -bills on England, it is said, to remit them to Lisbon.</p> - -<p>My wife is busy as ever with the Alhambra, and is a little better, -but still most wretchedly thin and weak.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Saturday</i>, <span class="smcap">Sevilla</span> [<i>21 Feb. 1832</i>].<br /> -</p> - -<p>I enclose you an exact account of the military movements which have -taken place here; you will receive the same account by next post -from a <i>greater man</i> from Cadiz. This is a copy of what Don Julian -writes to him this post; but, as possibly it may interest you to -have even this information without loss of time, I send it you -also.</p> - -<p>Don Julian (who is the best of God’s creatures)</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a name="ill_005" id="ill_005"></a> -<a href="images/ill_006_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_006_sml.jpg" width="500" height="369" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>PATIO DE LA MEZQUITA.</p> - -<p> -[<i>To face p. 82.</i><br /> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Drawn by Harriet Ford, 1832.</p></div> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">never likes troubling any one, still less so great a man as your -Excellency, as his instructions are to correspond with Don -Brakenbury, otherwise he would, in these sort of cases, write -directly to you.</p> - -<p>The weather here is delicious, like English October. Ronda Hills -are covered with snow, which is unusual: Don José writes from -Granada that the Vega is wrapt in a fleecy mantle and the Picacho -inaccessible. Captain Cook duly arrived <i>per diligence</i>; we shall -shortly forward him to Cadiz. I wish I could say as much of Don -Mark, who is expected.</p> - -<p>My spouse mends very slowly; I wish she got on as well as the -Alhambra <i>azulejo</i> drawings.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -(<span class="smcap">Enclosure.</span>)<br /> -</p> - -<p>Wednesday, the 15th inst. (February 1832). Part of the Escuadron de -Artilleria Volante left this city for Valencia de Alcantara by the -Badajoz road, consisting of</p> - -<ul> -<li>4 pieces (8-pounders),</li> -<li>8 furgones (artillery waggons),</li> -<li>1 fragua (forge),</li> -</ul> - -<p class="nind">with the Escuadron maniobrero del Regimento de Caballeria del -Principe, consisting of 115 men, well mounted, for the same -destination.</p> - -<p>Thursday, the 16th inst. The 2nd battalion of the Regimenᵗᵒ de -Ynfanteria de Africa 6º de Linea left this for Madrid, consisting -of nearly 900 men,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span> including officers, having been completed with -men taken from the 1st and 3rd battalions.</p> - -<p>Observations. The Escuadron de Artilleria Volante, which consists -of 12 pieces, for want of horses, could only send off the 4 pieces -above-mentioned, although the orders were for the entire Escuadron -to proceed to Valencia de Alcantara. Exertions are making to get it -completed, that it may be able to proceed.</p> - -<p>The Regimᵗᵒ de Caballeria del Principe, although it consists of -above 300 men, could send only 115, also for want of horses.</p> - -<p>The 1st and 3rd battalions of the Regimᵗᵒ de Ynfanteria de Africa, -remaining here, have only from 300 to 400 men, and the battalion -that has gone to Madrid, it is said, will be replaced by one -battalion of Ynfanteria de la Regna, which is to come from Ceuta.</p> - -<p>The Regimᵗᵒ Provincial de Sevilla is to be called together as soon -as shoes and various articles of clothing, of which they are much -in want, can be got ready.</p></div> - -<p>At the end of February, 1832, Ford started alone on a riding expedition -through the south-west corner of Spain, visiting Tarifa, Algeciras, -Xeres, and Ronda. The story of Tarifa is the one great incident in the -wretched reign of Sancho IV., called <i>El Bravo</i>, King of Castile and -Leon (1284-1295). The castle had been taken in 1292 by Alonzo Perez de -Guzman, who held it against the Moors. His only son, a child of nine, -was brought under the walls of the castle by the Infante Juan, a -traitor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span> and renegade. Juan threatened to kill the boy if Guzman would -not surrender to the Moors. Guzman drew his own dagger, threw it down to -Juan, and replied, “Better is honour without a son than a son with -dishonour.” The boy was murdered before the father’s eyes; but the -castle remained in Christian hands. King Sancho rewarded the defender -with the “canting” name of <i>El Bueno</i>, and with all the lands between -the Guadalete and the Guadairo. From Guzman sprang the family of Medina -Sidonia, who take their ducal title from the name of a hill fort some -twenty miles from Cadiz.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>March 31, 1832</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Since I wrote last, I have been scampering over the mountains of -Ronda, not having the fear of José Maria in my eyes. I went first -to Cadiz to see the consular pictures and drink the consular -sherry, both very fine, <i>cosas de gran gusto</i>. Thence by Vejer to -Tarifa to see the castle of Guzman <i>el Bueno</i>, and the eye of many -a dark Tarifenia. They go about there, as they do at Tangiers, -covering their faces with a black <i>manta</i>; one black eye shines out -and goes clean through one like a bullet. Thence to Gibraltar, -where your despatches have set the General and his staff on the -alert, and the dogs of war are looking forward to be slipped. The -first thing General Houston told me was how he regretted that -General<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span> Monet<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> <i>had left Algeciras for Seville</i>, which was news -to me who had come from Algeciras that morning, and was going back -to dine with the said General Monet. General Monet, all pacific, -and, as he has had some experience as to what took place in the -last business, his opinion was a fair set-off against <i>el ingles</i>. -However, they know as much about Spain in Gibraltar as people in -Plymouth do about Algeciras, or those in Algeciras about Plymouth.</p> - -<p>I was strongly advised by all my friends on the Rock not to venture -back into Spain, but send forthwith for my family. I did, however, -venture, and proceeded to Ronda, through a wild mountain country, -full of smugglers and robbers (though one implies the other). The -ride was very striking. The old Moorish towns with Moorish names -perched like the nests of eagles on almost inaccessible pinnacles. -Indeed, they are still Moors, talking Spanish. Ronda, with its -<i>tajo</i> or cleft between the old town and the new one, is a thing -worth being robbed in order to have seen.</p> - -<p>Thence to Xeres through Grazalema, the hotbed of José Maria and -<i>contrabandistas</i>. I there had a long interview with Frasquito de -la Torre and his eleven robbers. They are now all <i>hombres de -bien</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span> <i>indultados y en persecucion de los malhechores</i>; they have -undertaken to clear Andalucia of <i>Ladrones</i>, a plant that all the -armed agriculturists in Europe will never weed from so fertile a -soil; a fine set of picturesque well-dressed <i>Majos</i>. I had, -however, six soldiers given me by General Monet, and would have -shown fight; but they showed me all sort of civility, giving me -wine and presenting me to their wives, who are not worth our pretty -<i>Sevillañas</i>. Thence to Xeres, full of sherry, which is better -discussed out of a decanter than in an epistle. The Duke of San -Lorenzo has a magnificent Alcazar there, and, were I him, I should -cut Madrid, and take to drinking dry Amontillado in my Moorish -palace.</p> - -<p>Mrs. O’Lawlor has presented the General with a little girl, born on -the 25th. Don Carlos Downie has presented him with twenty-four -robbers from the neighbourhood of Jaen, who will be duly hung, <i>si -Dios quiere</i>.</p> - -<p>All the authorities here, Arjona, Quesada, General Flegres (these -two know something about the Raya [frontier] de Portugal), are -quite confident about peace, and that Spain will not interfere. I -hope you will give me a hint, <i>verbum sapienti et ab Sapiente</i>, as -to when you think the climate of Gibraltar more favourable for the -welfare of my family than that of Seville.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span></p> - -<p>We have Captain Cook here. Sʳ. Eden has just returned from Lisbon. -Everything most perfectly quiet there. He was much struck by the -admirable appearance of the Portuguese troops. Pedro will get a -licking if he does not look sharp. I should not be sorry, who want -to remain another year in Spain; and then they may both go to -<i>Carrajo</i> or <i>the Carracas</i>, or wherever and whenever they like.</p> - -<p>All perfectly quiet at Badajoz.</p> - -<p>I find my wife very unwell and in great anxiety about the little -baby (who was born at Seville last year). It has been alarmingly -ill within these few days, and I fear there is not much chance that -it will live. I am the more distressed on my wife’s account, as it -has thrown her back very much, and intercepted the slow progress of -her recovery.</p></div> - -<p>As the following letter shows (May 12th) Ford did not remain long in -Seville. Two months were spent in an expedition along the frontier of -Spain and Portugal and in the north from Lugo to Bilbao. The first part -of his road took him by Merida, with its magnificent Roman remains, over -the Tagus by the famous bridge at Alcantara, through Placencia to -Salamanca. From Placencia he rode over the hills to the Jeronymite -Convent of San Yuste, where Charles V., empire-sick, retired to die -(September 21st, 1558). In the same neighbourhood and also visited by -Ford, was the square-built palace of Abadia, where the Duke of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span> Alva -withdrew from public life, in the society of Lope de Vega, to lay out -his gardens in terraces and adorn them with Italian statuary.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>May 12, 1832.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I am going to set out to-morrow for Zafra and Merida, and thence -through Placencia, Alcantara, Ciudad Rodrigo to Salamanca, where I -shall finish my education. If I see anything <i>interesting</i> to you -on the <i>Raya</i> of Portugal I will take care and forward a despatch. -If this finds you in Madrid, you will much oblige me by letting -Alphonso walk to that arch-Hebrew, Ravassa, to desire him to send -me a credit on Ciudad Rodrigo, Salamanca and Valladolid, and write -to me at Ciudad Rodrigo the names of the bankers. You may remember -what a state of poverty and destitution the Jew left me in at -Zaragoça for want of diplomatic <i>garantias</i>. I have written to the -circumcised dog this post. When I reach Salamanca, I shall settle -my future plans. Much will depend on whether the cholera should -take a fancy about that time to travel in Spain, in which case I -shall get back here through Madrid as quickly as I can, as I would -rather meet José Maria than the Cholera.</p> - -<p>My wife has relinquished all thoughts of leaving Seville this -spring, as our last baby continues in rather a precarious state, -and she is unwilling to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span> leave him; otherwise we should have gone -to Malaga and Granada. Seville is free from English; Heaphy <i>el -feroz</i>, and O’Meara <i>el Majadero</i> [gawk], (what a knack they have -at <i>soubriquets</i>!) are gone to Murcia; S Eden and Martin <i>per</i> -steamer to England; Cook and Baring return to Madrid on Thursday. -They have been detained here by another ball I have been giving, to -the horror of the <i>dévotes</i>, during the <i>Rogativas</i>, for which, -they say, all those who attended will be carried off by a -particular and express cholera. Meantime the ball was very well -attended; and by most beautiful and bewitching <i>Andaluças</i>, as -Baring and Cook will tell you. By the way, we are expecting the -famous French dandy, Charles de Mornay, who is coming from Morocco, -where he has been as <i>Plenipo</i>. He will enlighten the Madrid -dandies by some outlandish Paris coat <i>couleur de cholera morbus</i>; -if you fall in with him, and can get over his outward appearance, -you will find him very tolerable. He is an acquaintance of mine, -and friend of my wife, which may be predicated of all his English -<i>connoissances</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Salamanca</span>, <i>June 6 [1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Here I am in this venerable university, completing my education, -and endeavouring to make amends for the sad waste of time during -the years<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span> mis-spent at Oxford in earning the honour of a M.A. This -peaceful habitation of the Muses is disturbed by the piping of the -fife and the beating of the “soul-stirring” drum. The empty -colleges are filled with soldiers, who are inscribing on the walls -<i>carrajo</i>, and the usual words by which that class of people show -their proficiency in the art of writing.</p> - -<p>Everything very quiet in Portugal; in Merida there may be 400 or -500 men; in Placencia as many cuirassiers; in Ciudad Rodrigo a -company of artillery and about 1200 men. Here there are artillery -from Seville, some cavalry, and altogether about 4000 to 4500 men. -This army on the frontier, including Badajoz, I should state as -under 10,000. They are very well appointed in all respects, and -seem fine troops—full, however, of <i>quintas</i> [balloted men] and -young lads.</p> - -<p>I have seen much of General Sarsfield, which is more than anybody -else has. He seems to think that there is no chance of anything -taking place in Portugal, except in case of a general war.</p> - -<p>This is a charming old town. I have been over the field of battle. -The identical guide who was with Lord Wellington lives still in -Arapiles.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span> Would you believe it? not a single Spaniard, though -they have been here two months, has ever been over to see the scene -of battle. They, I suppose, know full well how very little they had -to do with it.</p> - -<p>I have been wandering over the mountains to the mines of Rio Tinto, -to Zafra and Merida, and thence across the uninhabited plain of -Estremadura to Alcantara, a magnificent Roman bridge in a most -picturesque situation, reminding me much of Toledo. Thence through -Coria to Placencia, and to the convent of Yuste, where Charles V. -died. The monks received me with great hospitality, lodged me in -the imperial quarters, and gave me a bed in the room in which -Charles died, and I did not see his ghost.</p> - -<p>Thence through Capara (a beautiful Roman arch) to Abadia, a ruined -palace of the great Duke of Alva. Thence over the mountains through -the romantic valley of Jurdes to the celebrated convent of Las -Batuecas, a mountain scene of the grandest description. Thence to -the ruined town of Ciudad Rodrigo, and so on to Salamanca; where I -have been living much with the Prior, a great ally of the Duke of -Wellington, and who furnished him with the most important -intelligence during the war. I am now going to Benavente, thence to -Santiago,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span> Oviedo, Leon, and so to Madrid, <i>viá</i> Burgos and -Valladolid. Please God, I hope to arrive in the <i>Corte</i> early in -July.</p> - -<p>Pray be so kind as to put aside the Galignanis since May, as these -are most interesting times, and I am longing to read the debates. -If I can be of any service, <i>manda V. E. con toda franqueza a su -criado</i>; and write either to Lugo, Oviedo, or Leon, in case you -wish anything done in the mountains or a prayer said for your sins -at Compostella.</p> - -<p>I have good accounts of my wife at Seville, who is broiling while I -am shivering under the blasts of Castille, attended with cold and -rain—worse weather than the most inclement June in England. Sad -work for an artist, as the wind blows one’s paper to rags and the -rain wets it through, to say nothing of the chance of being shot as -a spy or laid in the Red Sea as the ghost of Mr. Boyd.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Madrid</span>, <i>Thursday [July 13, 1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I arrived here this morning, having left Bilbao on Tuesday, which -is not bad work this warm weather. I am very sorry not to meet you -here, to talk over my pilgrimage and travels, which have been -rather interesting. I have been absent from my spouse and children -so long that my marital and paternal feelings are getting impatient -for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span> Seville, where I hope to arrive next week, leaving this -<i>Corte</i> on Tuesday by the <i>Malle de Poste</i>. This is an excellent -and most rapid mode of travelling, as we came from Vitoria nearly a -gallop all the way. I hope this autumn, if Dom Pedro allows you, -that you will come down and look at our pretty Sevillanas.</p> - -<p>I have been looking over the batch of Galignanis, and have many -thanks to give you for having preserved them for me; any you can -henceforth spare for Seville pray send me. I saw nothing worth -writing to you about on my tour in political matters. There are -about two thousand men at Zamora, and, altogether, I should reckon -the Spanish force to be about twelve thousand men—good troops and -well appointed with everything. The general feeling everywhere is -that they will not pass the frontier.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Madrid</span>, <i>Tuesday, 17th [July 1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am off this night <i>per Malle de Poste</i> to Seville. I am very -sorry that we have not met in Madrid, but hope in the autumn we may -meet in the marble court of my house in the sweet south. You will -do well to come down and dissipate a little after your fatigues -with Dom Pedro. <i>Dulce est desipere</i> in Seville. Will you be so -kind as to forward the enclosed to the Duke of Wellington, whenever -you<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span> have a safe conveyance? It contains a letter which a friend of -his gave me at Salamanca.</p> - -<p>A Mr. Lewis,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> a clever artist whose father I know well, has been -recommended to me by Henry Wellesley. He is about to make a sort of -picturesque tour of Spain, having orders for young ladies’ albums -and from divers booksellers who are illustrating Lord Byron. Will -you be so good as to get his passport <i>viséd</i> in manner that he may -not be shot or hung as a spy? I think, if it were <i>viséd</i> in your -Embassy in Spanish, it would be quite sufficient in a sort of form -like this:—</p> - -<p>“El contenido artista Ingles viaja en España con el unico objeto de -estudiar y debujar y siendo sujeto de confianse se le recommienda a -las auctoridades civiles y militares de su Transitu.”</p> - -<p>I had a sort of <i>visé</i> like this from Quesada, which operated like -magic. To be sure, they took me for your Excellency in disguise, or -at least for a Field-Marshal. This place is very hot, dusty and -glaring, and I shall be glad to repose under my orange trees and -vines in the shade, and listen to the splashing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span> of waters, the -domestic details of my spouse, and the crying of my children, all -which pass a single gentleman’s belief.</p> - -<p>I see nothing new except the Velazquez, which are more -extraordinary every time I meet them.</p></div> - -<p>Ford missed seeing Addington at Madrid, because the Ambassador was in -attendance on the Court at La Granja, where momentous events were taking -place which affected the destiny of Spain for the next half-century.</p> - -<p>In May 1713 the first Bourbon King of Spain, Philip V., had decreed the -establishment of a modified form of the Salic law of succession. Women -were not absolutely excluded from the throne; but, only if male heirs -failed, could they succeed to it. As the law stood, thus modified, Don -Carlos, the brother of Ferdinand VII., was the legal heir, rather than -Ferdinand’s daughter Isabella.</p> - -<p>But in 1789, on the accession of Charles IV., the Cortes was summoned to -take the oath of allegiance. When they assembled, the President informed -them that the King desired them to exercise their constitutional rights, -and to request him to decree the abolition of the Salic law of 1713. The -restoration of the old Spanish law of succession, which allowed females -to succeed, failing male heirs of the same degree, was welcome to a -nation which remembered the reign of Queen Isabella. The Cortes -therefore begged Charles IV. to abolish the Salic law and to restore the -ancient rule. But the enactment was never perfected by publication.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p> - -<p>Early in 1830 Ferdinand VII. had hopes of a child. It was therefore -determined to act on the address of the Cortes of 1789, and to publish -the decree. Accordingly, in March 1830, the decree was solemnly -proclaimed at Madrid; the Salic law was abolished, and the ancient rule -of succession restored. By this change Don Carlos could only succeed if -Ferdinand remained childless; if a child were born to him, whatever its -sex, it inherited the throne. Isabella was born in October 1830, and a -second daughter in January 1832. But the King’s health made it probable -that he would have no further issue, and round the legality of the -decree of 1830 centred the intrigues of two masterful women, Maria -Francisca of Braganza, the wife of Don Carlos, and Carlota of Naples, -the wife of Ferdinand’s younger brother, Francisco de Paula.</p> - -<p>At the end of the summer of 1832 Ferdinand seemed to be dying. Queen -Christina was nursing him at La Granja. Young and inexperienced, worn -out with fatigue, she was no match for the reactionary Ministers who -surrounded her husband. Their advice was plain and urged with -persistency. If the decree of 1830 were not repealed, Spain would be -torn by civil war, and deluged with blood. The King yielded. In -September 1832, on what was supposed to be his death-bed, he signed a -secret document, revoking his decree, restoring the Salic law, and thus -constituting Don Carlos heir to the throne.</p> - -<p>The news reached Dona Carlota among the bull-fights and receptions in -Andalusia which Ford describes. She hurried to Madrid, vehemently -reproached Calomarde, the Minister of Justice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span> extorted from him the -document, tore it to shreds, and soundly boxed his ears. Calomarde, -utterly cowed, could only murmur, “White hands, Madam, can never -dishonour.” The King recovered. New Ministers were appointed. The old -ones were dismissed. The Captains-General were displaced by men of more -moderate views. Thus Quesada was appointed to Madrid, the Marques de las -Amarillas to Andalusia, the Conde de España replaced by Llauder at -Barcelona, and Moreno removed from Granada. The Liberals were amnestied. -In March 1833 Don Carlos was permitted to retire to Portugal, and in the -following June Isabella received the oath of allegiance as Princess of -the Asturias and heiress to the crown of Spain.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Aug. 1 [1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>My poor little baby (who has been a year struggling against the -organic injury received by his fall in the Alhambra) on Monday -evening was released from its continual and cruel sufferings, and -has been buried in the orange garden of San Diego, where the -remains of those English who die in this distant land are gathered -together. (I doubt if Mark will ever forgive me.)</p> - -<p>This melancholy event, though long anticipated, has upset my wife -more than I should have expected. I found her on my return very -much improved in health, and looking much better than she has ever -done this last three years—quite fat and stout.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span></p> - -<p>José Maria is now a <i>hombre de bien</i>, living like an honest -gentleman retired from an honourable and laborious profession, -enjoying the <i>otium cum dignitate</i>, the rich reward of meritorious -industry in Estefa. About forty gentlemen in his line have been -received into the society of honest Spaniards by an ample -<i>indulto</i>. The roads are in consequence quite safe for the present, -as long as the uneasy virtue of these gentlemen continues. It is -just possible that we may spend our autumn in Granada, and the -winter under the protection of Marco <i>el grande</i>, who is always the -conqueror. Malaga is a <i>rinconcillo</i> [small corner] we have never -seen, and I am anxious to go over to Africa in the spring to see -the <i>real Moors</i>. Many thanks for the Galignanis, which tell us -something about Messrs. Peter and Miguel, a pretty pair, as the -Devil said. I suppose that thing must by this time be ended. Would -the cholera were!</p> - -<p>We have a man here, fresh from London, who says nobody there pays -the slightest attention to it, and if there were no newspapers its -presence would be unnoticed.</p> - -<p>The Infante<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> has been here, seeing bull-fights.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span> The Infanta -very sulky, ugly, and cross, and insulting the Sevillanas. They -were coldly received, and at one time hissed (not kissed) in the -Plaza. The Alcazar is exquisite. What a palace it is now, hung with -the finest pictures in Seville, and furnished with the most -beautiful and costly furniture, old plate, etc., lent by the -principal families, all those who have saved anything since the war -of <i>de</i>pendence! The sheets on the bed, costing 5000 Rs., like Lady -Holland’s, edged with lace, and for the repose of such carcasses! -The consequence is that we flesh-eaters are paying the penalty of -these fooleries, two <i>cuartos</i><a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> having been added to the pound -of meat, and a tax here (and elsewhere), once put on, is never -taken off.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Aug. 22, 1832</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>We are now full of warlike reports; Juntas of <i>Realistas</i>; four -thousand are to march from this province, and two hundred -<i>valientissimos</i> from Sevilla, who will eat Dom Pedro in a -<i>Gaspacho</i> [a cold vegetable soup].</p> - -<p>They say that the Spaniards are determined to interfere, which will -very much interfere with my remaining in Spain; but I hope, if you -think the horizon cloudy and bad for a gentleman’s health,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span> that -you will give me a timely hint, to get a little sea-bathing at -Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>Spaniards deal so much in hyperbole, that one never knows what to -believe; they say that you and the Frenchman have taken down your -arms (if the Frenchman did his tombstones and cocks it would be no -bad thing). They also say that Sartorius<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> has taken Dom Miguel’s -ships, all except the large one. These news came per London -steamer. However, the <i>Realistas</i> are certainly in a bustle; of -that there can be no doubt, and it looks warlike. God help poor -fallen Spain! The cholera and a French army marching in at once, -and the plentiful crop of weeds which will sprout up out of the -earth, like the armed men of Cadmus. The Liberals and discontented -are overjoyed; they are like Mother Cary’s chickens, which only -come out when there are symptoms of foul and dirty weather.</p> - -<p>I wish Dom Pedro was hung in the <i>Tripas</i> of Dom Miguel, as the -Spaniards say of the English and French.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span></p> - -<p>Many thanks for your passport for Don Luis. He has written a letter -to me, full of thanks for your good nature to him, and will no -doubt draw your portrait <i>gratis</i>.</p> - -<p>We have nothing new here. Colonel Buller talking incessantly and -unceasingly of his uniform; if he does not make haste, they will -declare war before he gets it. His friend Mr. Horner sits in a -corner.</p> - -<p>There have been magnificent doings at the Alhambra, and I hear that -Dionysia’s dress and magnificence are the talk of the town. -Travelling is quite safe, as José Maria is looking after the -robbers instead of being looked after.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Sept. 19 [1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>By desire of Don José I enclose you an account of the gay doings in -the Alhambra in honour of His Serene Highness Don Francisco de -Paula. You may depend upon it that, in knocking up their trumpery -lamps and chandeliers, they have cruelly injured the beautiful -Moorish stucco, and probably have whitewashed over the little -remnants of its former gilding.</p> - -<p>We have the supreme felicity of being honoured by the royal -presence, and have had a grand bull-fight (the cause and effect), -given by the Maes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span>tranza,<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> in which Don Rafael Gusman (a -descendant of Gusman <i>el Bueno</i>) killed a bull, who, in his dying -spring, bounded over the barrier and died between it and the -spectators, a <i>lance</i> [a lucky event] considered by the -<i>aficionados</i> [enthusiasts] as <i>algo raro</i> [somewhat unusual], and -much applauded by His Highness and the <i>Majos</i> of Seville. This -occupies much conversation, of course, and Dom Pedro and the -cholera are at a discount. As to Doms Miguel and Pedro, even the -Spaniards are disgusted at their want of fight. What two -blackguards, to disturb the peace of the Peninsula!</p> - -<p>Everybody here is satisfied that the King is to spend the winter in -Seville, and to set out as soon as he can be moved, as they make -him out to be very ill. Meantime Gutierrez the painter, who is in -high favour in Court (drawing <i>two hundred</i> heads of the servants, -attendants, etc., in a blank book of the Queen’s), describes the -King as coming in and being very affable and good-humoured.</p> - -<p>We have no news whatever. Colonel Buller’s uniform is arrived, and -both are still remaining at Seville. Otherwise, God be praised! -there are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span> no British subjects here. The weather perfectly -delicious; the walks of an evening and at night charming. My wife -has been very unwell, feverish, and relaxed. As soon as she is -confined, which I hope will be early next month, we think of -starting for Malaga to eat raisins and be under the protection of -Mark.</p> - -<p>Our great visitors are all to go the 24th, and say they shall -return next year much earlier. The people are so poor that they -have not been able to give them a ball. In the town they said I was -going to do so. You see how we apples swim, and what a great place -this is for little people; however, I prefer counting my dollars in -my box, <i>nummos in arcâ</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Saturday [29 Sept. 1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>As you have been so long “in at the death,” I will give you a -little <i>birth</i> by way of a change. On Wednesday my wife was safely -brought to bed of a little girl, both mother and child doing -perfectly well. The birth was premature by three weeks, and brought -on by a severe illness which my wife has had, and which has thrown -her back sadly. I am in hopes that she will now recover her -strength for the journey to Malaga.</p> - -<p>They say, first, that the King is dead, and that he died on the -17th; next, that he is eating<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span> chickens and smoking cigars, on the -20th; and that he is coming here to a <i>dead</i> certainty.</p> - -<p>The furniture of the Alcazar, provided for the Infante, which was -to have been sold, is ordered to be put away in case of being -shortly required. How is all this? Is there really any chance of -the King’s coming? If so, pray let me know (<i>quite privately</i>), as -I in that case would remain the winter, having the largest and best -house in the town, which I need not say is at the <i>Disposicion de -V.E.</i>, and where I can give you a nice <i>little apartment</i>, with a -fireplace, and with no chickens to sing ovations on your arrival.</p> - -<p>Don Lewis is drawing the Alhambra, and Don José is speculating on -politics, about three weeks more behindhand than we are, which -might be expected, as he lives in an out-of-the-way mountainous -kingdom.</p> - -<p>I suppose you have had a rare time of it at the Granja. The running -up and down stairs and the stir of diplomacy will keep your feet -free from chilblains in that Mountain Court. The weather here is -beyond expression delicious.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>November 10, 1832</i>: <span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I have moved out of O’Neill’s house to the one I formerly occupied, -which is warmer and smaller, and have just laid in 1500 cwt. of dry -olive wood,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span> which I wish I could present you with. O’Neill’s -<i>administrador</i>, who is a regular skinflint, has taken to his bed, -in consequence of the loss of a tenant who paid 35 reals a day for -a <i>Caseron</i> which will never again be relet. Here they say that he -is coming to Seville for his <i>Quartel</i>.</p> - -<p>Amarillas has been well received at Granada, where the joy at -having got rid of that scoundrel Moreno is unbounded; above 500 -prisoners have been let out of the dungeons there. In spite of his -passport, he ordered Mr. Lewis out of Granada at two hours’ notice, -but relented on an application of Don José.</p> - -<p>Mark, who is always the conqueror, has got all the original -correspondence between Torrijos and Moreno, which I hear beats -cockfighting. They say Moreno has fled into Portugal.</p> - -<p>Quesada is making rare reforms in the police, and the Andalucians -are dancing Fandangos with delight.</p> - -<p>I am expecting Mr. Lewis from Granada, and am going to take him -into my house. I look forward to his Alhambra drawings, and hope my -wife will make some good copies of them. She is, I am very sorry to -say, in a most delicate state, and cruelly pulled down. People are -all in high spirits and looking forward to changes and -im<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span>provements which they will never see realised. The Queen very -popular, and, if the King exchange a terrestrial for an immortal -crown, she will here have a strong party.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Saturday, 15 [December 1832]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>As soon as I received your Walter Scott<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> prospectuses I sent one -to Arjona, the <i>assistente</i>, another to Quesada, and another to the -editor of the <i>Diario</i>. If you send any more, it will be as well to -add a postscript, saying who Walter Scott was, whether he was a -Frenchman or a German, whether he wrote Verses or dealt in -<i>Bacalao</i> [dried cod-fish], as there is no one here who has yet -heard of him, and all, like Lord Westmorland when asked to -subscribe to the monument of Watt, are asking <i>what’s what</i>. -However, if he had written the Song of Solomon, and been as -notorious as the Cid, the devil a <i>cuarto</i> would any Spaniard -subscribe, and I do not expect one <i>peseta</i> from Andalucia. The -Major is occupied in buying a horse; Colonel Buller in buying cloth -for new trousers, on which he descants till even tailors cry <i>ohe! -jam satis est</i>. I am buying meat and drink for my family. All these -matter-of-fact expenses militate against handing over dollars for -the decoration of a bleak northern capital.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span></p> - -<p>We are about to lose Quesada, who goes to Madrid; but he is -replaced by a better officer and a far higher-bred gentleman, -Amarillas; so that, as far as we are concerned, we rather gain. -Madame Quesada is one of the most agreeable, <i>graciosas y -chistosas</i> [gay] of all <i>Gaditanas</i>, and, if you fall in her way, -pray become acquainted with her.</p> - -<p>We are all going on here in our usual humdrum manner, my wife -certainly much better. I have just bought her a horse, and she is -having a splendid <i>Maja</i> riding-habit made, which will make the -<i>Andaluças</i> die of envy; black, with innumerable lacing and -tagging, and a profusion of silver filigree buttons.</p> - -<p>I have Don Luis staying in my house, he has made some beautiful -sketches of Granada, and is very busy with Sevilla.</p> - -<p>The wall of the Alhambra is not yet built up. Remember me and mine -to O’Lawlor, who, I hope, will pick up something in these times of -scramble and change.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a name="ill_006" id="ill_006"></a> -<a href="images/ill_007_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_007_sml.jpg" width="500" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>SKETCH OF SHOOTING EXCURSION.</p> - -<p> -[<i>To face p. 108.</i><br /> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By J. F. Lewis, 1833.</p></div> - -<p>J. F. Lewis is seated on a Grey Horse.</p> - -<p>R. Ford with the coloured mantle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span></p><p>The Captain, José Boscasa, on a Baggage Donkey.</p></div> -</div> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br /><br /> -SEVILLE AND GRANADA<br /><br /> -(JANUARY-SEPTEMBER, 1833)</h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Seville—Granada—Tetuan—Festivities at Madrid—Return to England</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Saturday, January 12 [1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I did not answer your letter last post, as I was then in the Sierra -Morena, near Alcolea, on a shooting excursion.</p> - -<p>You will find a large engraving of the tomb of the Catholic kings -in the folio work published at Madrid in 1804 by Don Pablo Lorano, -and called <i>Antiquedades arabes in España</i>.</p> - -<p>Lewis, who is here, says, if you are not satisfied with that print, -that he will make a drawing of the chapel and tomb at Granada when -he returns. There are portraits of Fernando and Isabella in the -Generalife; but they are bad, and certainly not so old as the -period those personages lived in. At the Cartuja convent, near -Burgos, is a genuine and beautiful small portrait of Isabella, -which struck<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span> me very much when I was there, and is certainly of -the time, and in the manner, of Holbein.</p> - -<p>If you are acquainted with a brother of General Sⁿ. Martin, who has -just been named Bishop of Barcelona, he will probably be able to -put you in the way of getting a copy made of this portrait by some -artist at Burgos. The newly-elected Bishop was treasurer of the -cathedral at Burgos, and is a most worthy and good man.</p> - -<p>Don José O’Lawlor could get you copies made of the portraits at the -Generalife and of the tomb of Granada, and that musical artist -<i>Muriel</i> will do the job in a manner that no one will recognise -them.</p> - -<p>So much for your Excellency’s commissions.</p> - -<p>We are all agog here with the arrival of Amarillas from Granada, -who will make an excellent Captain-General, quite as honest and -firm as Quesada, and much better and higher bred. If you see Madᵉ -Quesada, who is a most agreeable, charming, fat old lady, pray lay -me most devotedly at her feet.</p> - -<p>My wife has been far from well lately—a bad cough, pain in her -chest, and palpitations of the heart. I am not quite comfortable -about her, and have some thoughts of going to Madeira. The Colonel -is here as usual, and has lately set up a waistcoat, which he has -eulogised to all Seville.</p> - -<p>My wife wishes to know if you would like to have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span> a <i>very, very -fine</i> Pajes guitar. There was a talk of one being to be sold, and -it was mentioned to her.</p> - -<p>I have this instant seen the <i>Gazetta</i>, and that Don José is -appointed Captain-General of Mallorca. I suspected something was in -the wind when so prudent a gentleman undertook the journey to -Madrid. I am sorry for it, as I had eyes on the Alhambra for next -summer.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>March 6 [1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I have been resisting during these last six weeks an <i>empeño</i> -[favour] of my wife’s, but have at length yielded, as most men, -whether single or married, must to the constant battery of female -determination. She has bought a small silver filigree box, about -half a foot long and six inches high, which she is very anxious to -send to England, and to get it in without being broken up. She -wants to know whether you can or will help her in this matter. It -is a favour to be bestowed on her, and for which she will ever -remain your handmaid or handwoman. I have told her that <i>I</i> do not -ask you, because you would say <i>no</i> slap, and there would be an end -of it. As the box is so small, will it be possible to get Lady S. -Canning to take it back with her? I hardly like writing to Lord -Althorp about it, as the Whigs, of course, will never do a job. So -the matter stands. If you can do it, it will be a great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span> favour to -her, as the nicknack is a very pretty one. If you cannot, then she -must bear it patiently—<i>no tiene remedio</i>. You will have heard of -us and of our masquerading from a tall major, who was as high as a -hill; he passed through with a stammering gentleman, who, I hope, -was not the talebearer, or it is not told yet.</p> - -<p>We are expecting a flock of Consuls from Europe and Africa—the -Brackenburys and the Drummond Hays, who are going to spend the Holy -Week, and a rare unholy one will they make it; as, where two or -three English are gathered together, there is envy, hatred, and -uncharitableness amongst them, and still more with that great class -of people His B.M. Consuls. The Hays, I hear, are the greatest men -alive. I am thinking of being off to escape the Consular deluge, -and to retire to the polished cities of Tangier and Tetuan. Mr. Hay -has made me offers for my house, and probably I shall make hay -while the sun shines.</p> - -<p>We have applied for the Alhambra, and, as soon as I can get an -answer, we shall prepare to set forth for Granada, having no fear -<i>now</i> of José Maria, who came to Seville and paid me a visit of -which the whole town is talking. I received him as a man of his -merits deserves, and gave him a present of a pistol, with which -probably, if he meets<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span> me on the high road, he will shoot me. -Lewis, who is with me still, made a drawing of him—a fine handsome -fellow, and fit to be absolute king of Andalucia.</p> - -<p>If you have time to write, pray tell us what is <i>really known</i> -about the cholera. Is it at Lisbon? What are you about at Madrid, -making the exchange to rise so? I am ruined by it.</p> - -<p>My wife begs to be remembered to you, and that her <i>empeño</i> may be -remembered by you.</p> - -<p>Poor Don José! What a mess he made of his trip to Madrid, where his -Dionysia nearly miscarried, and he has completely. As far as we are -concerned, I am delighted to see him again at Granada.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>April 3 [1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>My wife begs me to thank you a thousand times for offering to send -her box. The size is 5 inches wide, 6 inches high, 8 inches long.</p> - -<p>If you think fit, I will send it to you, and you shall dispose of -the matter as you like. It contains a few odd Spanish trinkets, -about £50 worth, in which <i>materiam superavit opus</i>, and which she -wishes not to lose on account of the recollections attached to -them, being memorials of her travels. I am really quite vexed at -giving you all this trouble, thinking on the subject exactly the -same<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span> as you do, and wishing all ladies and their <i>empeños</i> at the -devil.</p> - -<p>We are full of <i>Misereres</i>, <i>Custodias</i>, <i>Pagos</i>, and processions, -all the night and day work of the Holy Week, all unction, the -fruits of which will duly make their appearance, this day nine -months, in a plentiful crop of bastards for the <i>Casa de los -Expositos</i>. Lots of English from the Rock, of the regiment called -The Tiger; Consuls, Vice-Consuls, and Consuls-General, as thick as -blackberries, and quite as insipid. I am dying to be lodged again -in the Alhambra, and hear the ovation of the Tia’s chickens. Will -the troubled times permit your Excellency to come and see us again -this summer, when we will ride to Alhama and on to the Consul Mark, -<i>el siempre Vencidor, El Galib?</i></p> - -<p>We are all at a nonplus at what is going on in the <i>Corte</i>. His -Majesty’s letter to the Captain-Generals is a poser, and means in -English, “I want nobody but my little Cea Bermudez.”<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> However, I -am delighted to see that his Majesty is so well, as these decrees -speak more clearly than any bulletins, that he has no thoughts of -dying, and cares no more for Isabel than George the Fourth did for -Charlotte. I wonder you can have any<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span> doubts whatever as to what -will happen next. You will see the next word of command will be “As -you were.”</p> - -<p>It would be a pity that the march of intellect should get into the -Peninsula, or that Africa should cease to begin at the Pyrenees.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sevilla</span>, <i>Wednesday, 17 [April 1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I enclose you the receipt of the <i>diligence</i> for the small box I -sent you, in consequence of your kind offer to send it home for my -wife. Mind, I should never have ventured to bother you on such a -subject. The <i>diligence</i> will arrive on Monday morning. If you will -send your whiskered <i>Chasseur</i> with the enclosed paper, no -custom-house officer will dare to open it.</p> - -<p>I suppose Brackenbury will send you the news of the two packets, up -and down, which have met at Cadiz. The one from Malta brings the -news that the Russians have 7 sail of the line at Constantinople, -and 40 transports full of troops in the Bosphorus, and that Mehemet -Ali’s fleet, 5 sail, have hoisted the flag of independence.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></p> - -<p>The <i>Hermes</i> from England, sent off at an hou<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span>r’s notice by the -Admiralty, touched at Oporto, Vigo, Lisbon, with orders to all the -English ships of war to proceed directly to Constantinople, without -anchoring at Gibraltar. The <i>Malabar</i>, Captain Percy (with Sir -William Eden on board), is at Cadiz, and, ere this, in the -Mediterranean. Other English ships are in sight. Private -intelligence to “<i>the Proconsul</i>” says that the cholera is at -Lisbon.</p> - -<p>Will you be so kind, if you have time, to let me know when the box -arrives, and, if it goes to England, how and when? It contains £50 -or £60 of trinkets, the honey collected by my Queen Bee.</p> - -<p>Shirreff is uncertain as to his motions. He is agog at the thoughts -of a war and a three-decker. It is probable that he will turn off -at Ossuna and proceed directly to Gibraltar by Ronda.</p> - -<p>I hope to arrive at Granada next Wednesday, where, in case of -seizure or squalls, you have a house at your <i>disposicion</i> to -retire to.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Tetuan</span>, <i>Saturday, May 25 [1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Do not be alarmed at a letter from this land of lions, tigers, -deserts, and cannibals, for I assure you it is a paradise compared -to the garrison and gunfire of Gibraltar, almost as beautiful as -Granada, quite as civilised as Spain, and abounding with comforts -and accommodations, seeing that the houses of the Jews are more -handsomely and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span> abundantly furnished than those of the grandees of -Seville.</p> - -<p>It is quite a mistake to suppose that there is any difficulty or -danger in travelling in Barbary, or that the condition of the Jews -or Christians here is so deplorable as gentlemen on their travels -have printed and published for the benefit of Mr. Colburn and -edification of the British public. Both are treated with great -kindness, and the proof of the substantial prosperity of the sons -of Israel is in the silks and jewels, domestic comforts and -luxuries, which are to be met with even among the poorest of them.</p> - -<p>I must go back a little in my letter. We left Seville in April, and -reached Granada in due time, in spite of the wind and the rain. We -thence proceeded to the town called by the English Gib, by the way -of Alhama <i>ay de mi</i>!<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> Loja, Antequera, and Ronda, a fine -mountain ride, full of Moorish castles and fastnesses, the scene of -many a desperate conflict, all of which are written in the book of -Washington Irving. From Gibraltar we were conveyed by Shirreff to -Tangiers, a pretty little town situated in a sheltered bay. I need<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span> -not tell you how great is the change on landing, greater than that -between Dover and Calais. I will not say that, on coming from -Spain, it is coming from civilisation to barbarism, it being well -known that Africa begins at the Pyrenees; but still the change of -turbans for hats, <i>haiks</i> for <i>capas</i>, camels for mules, wild Arabs -in their peaked <i>jellibeas</i> for monks, is sufficiently striking. -The interior of the town is like a Spanish one—all dirt, ruin, and -bad pavement, the houses, low and windowless, looking like whitened -sepulchres; and the women, in their <i>haiks</i> and muffled-up faces, -look like the ghost in <i>Semiramis</i>—a very appropriate population -for so sepulchral a city. From under the shroud, however, peep out -certain black, soft eyes, so full of life that a gentleman would -have no objection to be haunted in the night-time by one of these -spectres.</p> - -<p>The Jewesses do not hide their faces, and it would be a sin to do -so, as they are truly beautiful. Their costume is most fanciful and -oriental—a mass of brocade, golden sashes, handkerchiefs, and -jewelry, pearls, rubies, and emeralds, by no means the trappings of -a people said to be stripped to the skin by the Moors. If they have -any “<i>old cloes</i>,” they buy and sell them and do not wear them. -They are highly pleased at being visited,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span> and show their finery -with great complacency. My wife has been admitted into the interior -of divers houses of the Moors, but does not give so favourable an -account of them as of the Jewesses. The newly-married women paint -their faces very much as we remember, in the days of our youth, -that facetious gentleman Grimaldi did.</p> - -<p>There is a very decent inn, much cleaner and better provided than -those in Spain. We were lodged at His B. Majesty’s -Consulate-General, and so changed houses with the Hays. From -Tangiers we rode to Tetuan, a pleasant ride through a rich country, -well cultivated, of about eleven hours. Here we have put up in the -oriental dwelling of a respectable Jew, who has two daughters, who -make me think every day better of Moses as a legislator—fair -complexions, dark black hair, and soft, mild, large, almond-shaped -eyes, rendered more oriental by a dark powder, with which the lids -are slightly blacked, which gives an indescribable soft expression -to them. We have been received by the Pasha in oriental state, -turbaned guards, Ethiopian slaves, cushions and couches, and much -green tea, almond cakes and sweetmeats. My wife was presented to -his lady, and presented by her with a scarf value ten shillings, -for which she gave her a musical snuff-box.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span></p> - -<p>The situation of the town delightful, on the slope of a hill -commanded by an embattled castle, and overlooking a valley of -gardens bounded to the north-east by the blue sea, and to the south -by a magnificent chain of mountains. It is a second Granada, and -the original founders who fled from Granada brought with them all -their love for agriculture and gardens, which are here the delight -of the Moors. The hills supply them with an abundance of water, -which under African sun and a fertile soil covers the earth with -the most luxuriant vegetation and every kind of fruit given to man -to eat. The town is like that of Tangiers, impressive when seen -from the distance, but ruined in the interior. The bazaars, and -especially the corn and vegetable markets, very African. Lines of -camels laden with dates from Tafilet, silks from Fez, Ethiopians, -wild Arabs, and muffled women, naked legs and covered faces, all -talking a guttural idiom which beats German to nothing. The wares -they deal with are as singular as the people: painted <i>couskousu</i> -dishes from Fez, odd brown zebra-looking carpets from Rabat, -tricolour clothes for the Ethiopians, velvet embroidered cushions, -slippers and sashes from Algiers. Then the jewelry of the women. My -wife represents the Moorish women as one mass of pearls and -precious stones.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span> I have seen the collection of a Jewish woman -which filled a decent-size box, about four times as big as the one -my wife troubled you with, and which I hope started safely for -England. Huge uncut emeralds seem to be the favourites. The houses -are full of small <i>patios</i>, arches, arabesque work, and tesselated -pavement, like the Alhambra, and the palace of the Governor, which -is in high order, gives one an idea of what the Alhambra must have -been once upon a time. We hope to set out to-morrow for Gibraltar, -and thence to Granada <i>viâ</i> Malaga, and, having embraced His B. M. -Consul in that city, to get back to the Alhambra by the 6th of -June, <i>el dia de Corpus</i>, which is celebrated with great pomp in -Granada. <i>Adios</i> ever, here and everywhere.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Gibraltar</span>, <i>Thursday, 30 [May, 1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>We have arrived here quite safely from Tetuan, and hope to be back -at Granada by the 6th of June for <i>el dia de Corpus</i>.</p></div> - -<p>Leaving his wife at Granada, Ford hurried to Madrid to be present at the -solemn recognition of Isabella as heiress to the Spanish crown. In spite -of the protests of Don Carlos, the oath of allegiance was taken by the -Cortes in the Church of Geronimo at Madrid (June 20th, 1833). The -capital was given up for days to magnificent festivities, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span> -culminated in a bull-fight, given in the Plaza Mayor on Saturday, June -22nd. The whole square was converted into a superb spectacle, the -windows of the houses being used as boxes. Under a gorgeous canopy in -the centre window of the Town Hall sat the King and Queen; on either -side of them were the royal family and the court. The King arrived in -state at 5 o’clock. The arena was cleared by halberdiers, dressed in the -costume of the old guard of Philip II. The four knights, who took part -in the fight, led a splendid procession round the arena. Each was -accompanied by his sponsor, in a state coach and six, attended by -running footmen. The sponsors, the Dukes of Frias, Alva, and Infantado, -and the Count of Florida Blanca, were followed by troops of gaily -dressed bull-fighters and their assistants, leading horses from the -King’s stables, saddled with silver trappings, and their manes and tails -plaited with ribbons. They were succeeded by four troops, each -consisting of forty men, one equipped as ancient Spaniards, the second -as Romans, the third as wild Indians, and the fourth as Moors. When all -had taken their places the bull-fight began. The bulls were let loose, -and each of the four knights in turn advanced on horseback clad in silk, -and armed only with a short javelin. Their safety depended on the skill -of the matadors who attended them. Care had been taken that the bulls -should not be of their usual ferocity; but, even as it was, one of the -knights was severely wounded.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Malaga</span>, <i>June 2 [1833]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>If you do not repent you of your hospitable offer of giving me a -bed, during the approaching shows and ceremonies, I should be -delighted to run up for a few days. As I should come alone, any -hole or corner in your house would be perfectly good enough, and I -should put you by no means out of your way.</p> - -<p>I hope to be at Granada by Thursday, and will consult Don José’s -tailor on the subject of a coat, something blue, turned up with red -and a few dollars of gold lace; you can pass me, in this decent -livery, as an <i>attaché</i> extraordinary from the Pacha of Tetuan, or -a proconsul from his B.M. Consul-General at Tangiers. I hope in -this disguise to be allowed to stand behind your Excellency’s chair -at the different ceremonies, bull-fights, <i>rows</i> (<i>si Dios -quiere</i>), and hold your dress cocked hat.</p> - -<p>My wife is not well, and much knocked up by this last journey, and -will do quite well to remain quiet in the Alhambra. Indeed, some -repose is absolutely necessary to her, both bodily and mentally.</p> - -<p>This is a warm spot; and having dined with the consul, eaten the -raisins, drunk the Malaga, and looked at the clay figures, nought -remains but to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span> pack up the <i>Alforjas</i> [saddle-bags] and be off to -Granada.</p> - -<p>I wrote you a letter from Tetuan, which I hope reached you, and was -less tedious than one of sixty pages from Mr. Edward Drummond -Mortimer Auriol Hay.</p> - -<p>I hear there will be no time for an answer to reach me at Granada, -as I must set out about the 10th to arrive the 16th. All sorts of -conveyances will no doubt be occupied, and I shall have to ride -over the interminable plains of Castille, and shall arrive as brown -as the Plenipo from Algiers.</p></div> - -<p>On July 1st, 1833, Ford was back at Granada. But he had now determined, -for the reasons given in the following letter, to return to England. -Addington was also leaving Madrid. Greville (<i>Memoirs</i>, ed. 1888, vol. -iii. pp. 14-15), notes on July 20th: “George Villiers is to go as -Minister to Madrid, instead of Addington, who is so inefficient they are -obliged to recall him, and at this moment Madrid is the most important -diplomatic mission, with reference to the existing and prospective state -of things. The Portuguese contest, the chance of the King of Spain’s -death and a disputed succession, the recognition of the South American -Colonies, and commercial arrangements with this country, present a mass -of interests which demand considerable dexterity and judgment; besides, -Addington is a Tory, and does not act in the spirit of this Government, -so they will<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125">{125}</a></span> recall him without ceremony.” The unfavourable criticism -is discounted by the last sentence. But there can be no question that -Addington’s successor George Villiers, afterwards (1838) fourth Earl of -Clarendon, was a man of much greater ability. Villiers remained at -Madrid till early in 1839.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>July 6 [1833]</i>, <span class="smcap">Granada</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I arrived here to dinner on Monday last, having left Madrid -Saturday morning at 2, passing through the <i>Prado</i>, which was full -of people eating gingerbread, and dancing to guitars and strumming, -a very proper and Catholic mode of keeping the <i>Visperas</i> of Sⁿ. -Pedro.</p> - -<p>The journey here was severe, but rapid. I found Mrs. Ford much -better, very much better than I could have expected—so much so -that we have determined on returning to England in September, <i>si -Dios quiere</i>. I do not like the looks of things here, and, with the -Portuguese business and the cholera in the Peninsula, think it high -time to return to England. Indeed, it is high time for other -reasons. My wife is left alone without female society; my children -at this important age are brought up as heathens and Spaniards, a -pretty prospect for daughters; and I myself must purge like -Falstaff, and live cleanly like a gentleman, and take to that -gentlemanlike old vice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126">{126}</a></span> avarice, to save a little money for the -bad times which hang over England.</p> - -<p>We hear here that the expedition in the south of Portugal is -advancing prosperously, and that they pay as they go, which is a -surer way of making proselytes than all their charters and -constitutions.</p> - -<p>Don José has added another young lady to his family, Dionysia -having been safely brought to bed yesterday. This is her sixth -child of the female sex.</p> - -<p>The weather here delicious, mornings and evenings cool and fresh, -and all green, and trickling streams, shady over-leafy arbours, -with sweet singing nightingales; <i>per contra</i> nothing to eat, and -no Valdepeñas or dinners.</p> - -<p>The wall in the Alhambra is rising most rapidly, and the Frenchman -equally expeditious in his painting of the <i>Patio de los Leones</i> -for <i>Vista allegre</i>; indeed he had better make haste, for the -<i>vista</i> of the future is anything but <i>allegre</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Granada</span>, <i>August 24, 1833</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I was astounded in seeing in the <i>Revista</i> that your ambassadorial -career in Spain is coming to a conclusion. As you have been long -prepared for it, and, indeed, rather surprised at its not having -taken place sooner, I need say no more on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127">{127}</a></span> matter except that -you will retire to enjoy your <i>otium cum dignitate</i>. They have been -very considerate to let you out of Spain just when the cholera is -coming in. We hear that it was at Huelva on the 10th, and will soon -be at Cadiz and Seville. This is bad intelligence for us, as we -were preparing to return to England that route. If it does not -reach Gibraltar by October, we shall go home in that packet.</p> - -<p>If you have time, in all the misery of packing up and departure, to -write me a line, I shall be very glad to know when you are going -and what are your plans. I am sure I am most thankful to the Whigs -for their forbearance, as I verily believe, had you not furnished -me with the Galignani (to say nothing of much and friendly -hospitality on all and many occasions), I could not have survived -in this land of darkness. The papers say George Villiers is to be -your successor. He is a very clever, high-bred man, <i>muy rubio</i> and -an <i>elegante</i>; he will please the Madrilenas. I should doubt if he -knew a word of Spanish, which he will find a pretty considerable -<i>desideratum</i>.</p> - -<p>We are here enjoying the most beautiful weather, and one would -hardly suppose, on looking at the blue sky and bright sun, that -there was cholera in the world.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128">{128}</a></span></p> - -<p>The summer has been unusually warm, and old Picacho has taken off -his white nightcap in consequence of the heat. I went up to the -Barranco de Sⁿ. Juan with Head,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> who is a well-informed, -agreeable companion, and is filling his portfolio and pericranium -with all sorts of Spanish <i>memoranda</i>.</p> - -<p>Don José is <i>in statu quo</i>, and has had another baby born to him. I -occasionally stroll with him in the Alameda, and listen to his old -campaigns and how the Duke “flaked” the French on all occasions. I -am reading the masterly work of Napier, and O’Lawlor is quite a -commentator. <i>Quæque ipse miserrima vidi et quorum pars magna fui.</i></p> - -<p>You won’t be tempted to run down here in the <i>diligence</i>, and go -home in the October packet?</p> - -<p>Brackenbury was at Seville, gone to see the paintings of Mr. -Roberts, which I hear are very fine;<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> but the news at Huelva -sent him off per steamer to his post at Cadiz.</p> - -<p>I fear the wise Whigs will find their <i>protégé</i> in Portugal in a -mess; we hear every day of the country rising against Dom Pedro. -O’Lawlor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129">{129}</a></span> considers his troubles as now beginning. Your troubles -and mine are fast drawing to an end.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Sept. 21, 1833</i>, <span class="smcap">Madrid</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>We arrived here at last this morning, after a most distressing -journey, in consequence of the detentions and discomforts -occasioned on the road by the singular precautions taken in the -towns against the approach of the cholera. These are so very -absurd, and so totally calculated to defeat the object in view, -that I think some account of what took place may possibly interest -you.</p> - -<p>As I had to travel with a sick wife, four small children—one of -them only weaned a few days—I made many enquiries of General -Abadia and the <i>administrador</i> of the <i>diligence</i> at Granada -whether any difficulties would be offered on the road, with a view -of making some sort of preparation; but, having been assured that -none would, I ventured forth on Wednesday morning. We reached Jaen -without interruption, but on our arrival found a guard of soldiers -drawn up across the road, with many of the inhabitants behind them. -The <i>diligence</i> was stopped, though it could only come from -Granada; and though all other carriages coming from Granada were -admitted at once, a precaution taken against the <i>diligence only</i>, -which on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130">{130}</a></span> contrary ought to have been the least suspected, both -from the forms of its institution and the decency of travellers who -proceed by such a conveyance. The <i>mayoral</i> got down, and entered -into close communication with the soldiers and people, collected -all the passports, and gave them <i>into the hand</i> of a person -appointed to receive them. The passengers then alighted, and -mingled with the assembled people until the passports were -returned.</p> - -<p>Next morning we proceeded to Mengibar, a miserable hamlet, where we -were detained by some wild-looking peasants and a nondescript -soldier in a <i>gorro</i> without stockings, but with a sword in his -hand. The passports were received in the same way, and returned -duly <i>viséd</i> by the <i>Junta de Sanidad</i>. In almost every town some -sort of detention took place, generally of about half an hour, but -varying in detail according to the plan laid down by each petty -Junta.</p> - -<p>At Guarroman a carriage, supposed to have a person from Seville in -it, was turned out of the town, and the passengers obliged to pass -the day in the sun, without food or communication, while some steps -were taken to procure them a <i>cortijo</i>.</p> - -<p>At Manzanares, where we arrived early, we were detained much -longer, as none of the peasants could read or write, and the -passports had to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">{131}</a></span> taken to the <i>Escribano</i>, who was in bed, and -had left orders not to be disturbed.</p> - -<p>At Ocaña, where we ought to have rested some hours and supped, the -<i>diligence</i> was peremptorily ordered out of the town. We were -driven out and left to ourselves; the innkeeper, who ought to have -provided food, not having done so because there might be some -difficulty in his getting paid. However, a party in the carriage -fared better: several ladies, attended by two officers of the -garrison with servants, came down to the <i>diligence</i> with -provisions, remained with it an hour, and then returned to Ocaña -with the <i>very guards</i> who were appointed to prevent all -communication.</p> - -<p>At Aranjuez, the next town, we were admitted without stoppage, -enquiry, or notice of any sort.</p> - -<p>It is needless to point out to you the absurdity of these -proceedings, so vexatious to travellers, and so utterly ill -calculated to produce any good effect. Persons suspected of being -infected are allowed to remain in full communication with -inhabitants of the town, before their actual freedom from disease -is ascertained. The commonest measures of sanitary precautions are -neglected. There was no bar, no rope across the road, no fixed spot -for the travellers to communicate with the guards, no receiving -papers or passports with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132">{132}</a></span> tongs, or with vinegar, or any of the -usual disinfecting processes.</p> - -<p>Each little town seemed to act according to its own ideas, and all -absolute and peremptory; all in equal ignorance of what was passing -below and left in equal ignorance by the authorities at Madrid; -without orders or instructions, or one general simple plan to be -adopted everywhere, each petty village acting for itself as if no -other town existed, and without reference to the public good.</p> - -<p>Depend upon it, they are adopting the sure means of rapidly -communicating the disease, and <i>any one</i> infected traveller will -bring it, to a certainty, to Madrid, if no better precautions are -taken in the towns nearer the disorder.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133">{133}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br /><br /> -EXETER<br /><br /> -1833-1837</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Death of Ferdinand VII.—Exeter—Projected Book on Spain—Purchase -of Heavitree House—Marriage of Lord King and of Addington—First -Article in the <i>Quarterly Review</i>—Death of Mrs. Ford.</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> his way to England, at the end of September 1833, Ford passed through -Madrid. There he saw the funeral of Ferdinand VII., of which he gives an -account in the following letter written to Addington from his mother’s -house in London.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -[123, <span class="smcap">Park Street</span>], <span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>Wednesday, 4th Dec., 1833</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am afraid I shall have left town before your return, which I am -very sorry for, as I should have much liked to have had a chat with -you in this dull and dingy capital, and to have talked over that -fair land (<i>alias</i> brown) beyond the Pyrenees. I should have had -more to tell you than will go in a letter of our perils by sea and -by land, moving adventures and escapes. Poor old Fernando, as you -predicted, died when we were there, and we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134">{134}</a></span> saw him duly conveyed -to the Escurial in a <i>coche de colleras</i>, with his feet projecting -out of the front windows, and the <i>capa</i> of the <i>Zagal</i> hanging up -behind. Alva, Medina Celi, and other grandees, riding hacks, in -gold-embroidered coats and black trousers (the under man like an -undertaker; the upper, all the tinsel of Spain, which gilds those -mean hearts that lurk beneath a star). Sad dogs they looked, <i>tel -maître tel valet</i>. Old Alagon brought up the rear. It was -archi-Spanish, a mixture of the paltry and magnificent, and no one -caring one inch about any part of it.</p> - -<p>Villiers arrived with a good cook, and began his dinners, which -were good and agreeable. He has arrived at a rare difficult period; -but he is a very clever fellow and a complete man of the world.</p> - -<p>I am going down to Exeter, where I have taken a house for a year, -and am going to place my children in the hands of my brother<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> to -eradicate <i>Santa Maria</i>, and teach them the architecture of the -interiors of English churches.</p> - -<p>I met Grant the other day, who was on his way<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135">{135}</a></span> from Madrid to -Lisbon, <i>viâ Londres</i>. He told me that all your goods and chattels -were in the Downs, “all in the downs the goods were moored”; among -them is a silver vase and some coins belonging to your <i>servidor</i>, -and a <i>Maja</i> dress with four million silver buttons belonging to -Mrs. Ford. A case of old books went at the same time, and probably -is among them; for them I wish to pay duty, if your agent would be -so good as to do so, and then all the <i>Roba</i> may be forwarded to my -mother’s, with many thanks for all the trouble you have taken.</p> - -<p>Grant tells me that your pension is rather undecided! God forfend! -Ruin seems to stare everybody in the face; London half-deserted, -and the roads and inns of the continent encumbered with absentees. -We are patriotic, and come home in the time of need.</p></div> - -<p>The surroundings of his new home at Southernhay, Exeter, delighted him. -Writing to Addington, February 4th, 1834, he says:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“This Exeter is quite a Capital, abounding in all that London has, -except its fog and smoke. There is an excellent institution here -with a well-chosen large Library, in which I take great pastime and -am beginning my education. There is a bookseller who has some <i>ten -thousand</i> old tomes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136">{136}</a></span> to tempt a poor man. However, here one has no -vices or expenses except eating clotted cream, and a <i>duro</i> crown -piece wears a hole in your pocket before you are tempted to change -it. The dollars accumulate, and I am reading my Bible and minding -my purse. Spain is in a pretty state. Llauder<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> cannot be -trusted, as he has been true to no one, not even to himself. -Quesada is a violent man, without much statesmanlike tact; he is -piqued with what happened to him at Madrid, when they were fools -enough to set out with disgusting him. He is no Liberal in his -heart, hates the English, likes the French, believes in the -<i>Gazette de France</i>. I know him right well; he is <i>muy integro</i>, -and has a sort of straightforward common sense.</p> - -<p>“Amarillas is, without any sort of doubt, the first man in Spain, -and of the soundest political sentiments, a true friend to England, -and most anxious to recognise the Americas, which he always told me -<i>must</i> be the first step to the welfare of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">{137}</a></span> Spain. He has property -in Andalucia which has been ruined by the non-exportation of their -oils.</p> - -<p>“My brother and his family (all most super-excellent people and of -transcendental goodness) are quite well, and <i>the five Miss Fords</i> -are the dearest friends.</p> - -<p>“I amuse myself much with old Spanish books and old Spanish -recollections, and <i>have my pen in my hand</i>. The more I read, the -more ignorant I find I am, and how the middle age of life has been -mis-spent. I am rubbing up what I knew at eighteen and nineteen; it -is an awful thing, now the world is so learned and the lower orders -walking encyclopedias, to think of writing anything and printing. -<i>Nous verrons</i>.”</p></div> - -<p>Once settled at Exeter, Ford began to write an account of his Spanish -experiences. The pocketbooks, in which he had noted whatever had -impressed him in his travels or his reading, were brought out, and the -task was commenced with characteristic zest. But the book which he had -planned in 1834 was never written. Many circumstances led to the -abandonment of the design. For a time he was discouraged by Addington’s -criticisms. Then his literary ambitions were temporarily checked by the -passion for house-building and landscape-gardening; when these were -revived, they were fully occupied in the articles which, from 1836 -onwards, he contributed to the <i>Quarterly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138">{138}</a></span> Review</i>. Finally the material -which he had collected was embodied in <i>The Handbook for Spain</i> (1845), -and the <i>Gatherings from Spain</i> (1846).</p> - -<p>The old pocket-books, filled with notes and sketches, revived pleasant -memories of Spain:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Exeter</span>, <i>March 10, 1834</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I have been rubbing up my notes on the coast of Andalucia, and have -been in the <i>Bottegas of Xeres</i>, drinking the golden Consular; -thence to Tarifa, and sucked a sweet orange with Guzman <i>el Bueno</i>. -Thence to Gib., round of beef and porter at Griffiths’. So to -Malaga; all sweet wine, raisins, and Consular uniforms. I cannot -say how much the fighting one’s old battles over again delights me. -I am afraid it will delight the gentle reader less. If I were to -write familiar letters like old Howell,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> perhaps they might do, -but the times won’t stand that now. Penny Magazines are all the -order of the day. Well! well! <i>dulce est desipere in loco</i>. I often -think that one day would take me to Falmouth, and six to Cadiz to -the society of the fair Brackybrigas, and another day <i>per</i> steamer -to the dark-eyed <i>Sevillanas</i>. Howbeit I have done with that -bird-lime to the human race, <i>viscarium Diaboli</i>, as old St. -Ambrose has it.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139">{139}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Exeter</span>, <i>March 15, 1834</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I sent Head a sample of my wares, to see if the article would do -for the public. He is a learned, dry antiquarian; that is not -exactly my line. You wish me to write an entertaining book (how -easy!!), <i>bagatella</i>, with anecdotes on men and manners. <i>Mores -multorum vidit et urbes!</i> A lady wished for scenery and sentiment. -Heigho! true lovers’ knots and moonlight. I should wish to make a -sort of <i>Puchero</i>, an <i>olla Andaluça</i>, a little dry <i>vacca</i> à la -Cook (that <i>cocinero</i> has just turned out two volumes which I have -sent for), a little <i>chorizo</i> [sausage] and <i>jamon de las -Alfujarras</i>, with some good pepper, <i>salsa</i> [sauce] <i>de Zandunga</i>.</p> - -<p>Where you could most assist me would be in a droll account of life -at Aranjuez or la Granja, which I never saw. I am strong in -Religion (you did not know that), Arts, and all except the -Literature; but I have an excellent Spanish library, and could in -six weeks write such an essay on the matter as would appear to be -the result of a greater acquaintance with their authors than I -have. I have, indeed, turned over a good many pages in Spain, but -it has been odd out-of-the-way reading.</p> - -<p>If you feel up to this task, it will be a <i>very, very</i> great -obligation, and will keep my book <i>correct</i>, and, I hope, cut out -all that is offensive. I hope not to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140">{140}</a></span> insert anything on politics, -which I neither like nor understand. I must wait and see Captain -Cook’s book. It will be heavy and correct; no taste, much industry -(the plates ought to be <i>wood</i> blocks): it will be very ligneous, -no <i>pyro</i>ligneous <i>acid</i>—as stiff and bolt-upright as a mainmast. -I do not see any possibility of getting the book done before next -spring; it will take a year to write. I care not for Captain -Heaphy, who will sail over the surface in an ice-boat. Captain Cook -will go down <i>pondere suo</i>.</p> - -<p>It is a serious matter; but I have leisure, and nothing to do. This -place is delicious: such a climate! such clotted cream! and an -excellent public Library with all good books of reference.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Exeter</span>, <i>March 26, 1834</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>You should look at Captain Cook’s book (<i>Sketches in Spain</i>: Boone, -Bond Street), dry, painstaking and accurate, better than I had -expected by far. He understands the people better than the -pictures. There he breaks down lamentably. But he is without taste, -and does not know a Murillo from a mainmast. You will see a -splendid sentence on old Ferdinand’s patronage of the Arts in -giving the pictures to the Museum. I have always heard that it was -the deed of the <i>Portuguesa</i> and the Ms. de Santa Cruz, who was -<i>Major duomo</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141">{141}</a></span> The D. of [?] told me that he and Santa Cruz spent -days in rummaging them out. Ferdinand had sent them to the Devil to -make room for some new French paper.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Exeter</span>, <i>April 20, 1834</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I enclose you a batch of MSS. which will remind you of the -despatches of Mark.</p> - -<p>The greatest act of real friendship you can show me is by not -scrupling to use your pencil as freely as a surgeon would his -knife, when he really thought the patient’s recovery required it. I -write in haste always, and am more troubled to restrain and keep in -matter, than for want of it.</p> - -<p>I want the book to run easy, to read easy, to be light and -pleasant, not dry and pedantic. I get on but slowly, and do not see -land. I feel the matter grow upon my hands in proportion as I get -on. It is like travelling in the Asturias; when you get up one -mountain, you see five or six higher before you. However, the coast -is clear, and that able circumnavigator, Cook, will be drier than -the Mummy of Cheops before my sheets will be dampt for printing.</p> - -<p>Do not forget to throw into an <i>omnium-gatherum</i> any odd remarks -about Madrid. If you get a copybook, when any stray <i>dyspeptic</i> -observation occurs, book it, and I will work it up, as a gipsy does -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142">{142}</a></span> stolen children of a gentleman, so that the parent shall not -recognise it.</p></div> - -<p>Addington’s criticism was in some respects discouraging. His diplomatic -caution was probably alarmed at Ford’s outspoken vigour, and he does not -seem to have read enough between the lines to recognise Ford’s real love -for Spain and the Spanish people. Ford’s reply shows his surprise at the -impression which he had produced on Addington.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Sunday Evening</i>, <span class="smcap">Exeter</span>, <i>May 4, 1834</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Your letter has knocked the breath out of my body, the ink out of -my pen, the pen out of my hand. You have settled my <i>cacoethes</i>. I -had no idea I was anything but a friend to the Spaniards. I do not -think them brave, or romantic, but with many super-excellent -qualities, all of which I should have duly praised. You cut out my -wit! Head cuts out my poetry! and I shall cut the concern. What is -to be done? I can’t write like Cook; I really wish to take in a -very wide haul, and have very great materials. Religion must come -in, or the Arts must go out. Politics and Poetry I care nothing -for. Wit (if there is any),—it is not wit but a trick of stringing -words together, and I cannot write a common letter, or say -anything, without falling into these sort of absurdities. It would -not be my book, if it was not so. I have a horror of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143">{143}</a></span> <i>flippancy</i>. -That is what I fear most, and am most likely to run into. There you -may carbonado me, and I will kiss the rod. If you read the MSS., do -not spare your pencil, and I will make great sacrifices to please -you. Remember you only see an excursion. My early chapters on -Seville will be historical, <i>prosaical</i>, and artistical.</p> - -<p>I should like you to read Faure or Bory St. Vincent,<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> and see -how <i>they</i> handle the Spaniards,—or some of the older works. Mine -is milk and water to Napier. I always thought you prejudiced -<i>against</i> the Spaniards rather than in their favour, poor -innocents! All about the grandees at Madrid, if you have stumbled -on that, I will cut out with pleasure. At the same time, if you -don’t agree in the book, I cannot be so right as I imagined, and -had better have nothing to do with the concern, but read other -people’s works instead of their reading mine.</p> - -<p>I have not the presumption to suppose my opinion to be worth yours -in many important subjects. On some I think it is,—the lighter and -more frivolous. I am a humble-minded author, as Head will tell you, -very docile, and not at all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144">{144}</a></span> irritable. I care not how much you cut -out, as I have written for four volumes, and would rather write -<i>two</i>.</p> - -<p>We will talk over the matter when I come to town, which will be -soon. Meanwhile, read the MSS., and cut away. Spare not my -pungency, and correct my mistakes. Cut out all that is flippant, -personal, or offensive (the grandees, I admit, is both). Remember -you have only the rough sketch. I have two years before me, and the -lean kine of reflection will eat up the fat ones of the overflowing -of young conceit and inexperience. I wish to write an amusing, -instructive, and, more than all, a gentlemanlike book. I hold -myself lucky that you and Head see it, and will abide by your -dictations, and kiss the rod and your hand.</p></div> - -<p>But the discouragement was not great enough to divert Ford from his -enterprise. The criticism did not cool his friendship. He was eager to -persuade Addington to settle near him, and once more sings the praises -of Exeter.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Exeter</span>, <i>Saturday evening, 14 June, 1834</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Now that the show is over, and all the caps and gowns, stars and -garters no more, I venture to indite you an epistle from the green -fields of Devon; right pleasing and fresh are they after the dusty -treadmill of <i>la Corte</i>. There are houses of all sorts from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145">{145}</a></span> £50 a -year to £<i>250</i>; one at that price is beautiful and fit for a -Plenipo. (I have not fixed on anything myself, having been chiefly -in bed with an infernal <i>urticaria</i>, <i>alias</i> a nettle-rash.) The -women, God be praised! are very ugly. Meat at 6<i>d</i>. a pound, butter -seldom making 1<i>s</i>.; I am told in the London Buttometer it reaches -18<i>d</i>. A Mr. Radford, who has a place to sell, has one gardener, -who looks after two acres and three horses, all for a matter of £15 -or so a year. Servants go twice to church of a Sunday, and masters -read family prayers, and make them work their bodies like galley -slaves, <i>per contra</i> the benefit conferred on their souls.</p> - -<p>The town is <i>pueblo levitico de hidalguia y algo aficionado a la -Iglesia y al Rey absoluto</i>; otherwise quiet and literary: -clergymen, physicians, colonels, plain £1000-a-year folk, given to -talk about quarter sessions and the new road bill (if you will -allow them). Otherwise a man goes quietly down hill here, <i>oblitus -et obliviscendus</i>, reads his books (or those of the Institution), -goes to church, and gets rich, which is very pleasurable and a -novel feeling—better than the <i>romance</i> of youth.</p></div> - -<p>Once more the manuscript passed to and fro between the friends. But a -new and absorbing interest for a time diverted Ford’s energies from -literature. In the late summer of 1834 he bought<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146">{146}</a></span> an Elizabethan -cottage, called Heavitree House, near Exeter, standing in about twelve -acres of land. Here he gradually rebuilt and enlarged the house, laid -out the ground in terraces and gardens with Moorish-patterned flower -borders, and planted pines from the Pincian and cypresses from the -Xenil. The first mention of the purchase, in his correspondence with -Addington, occurs in a letter written from Oxford, September 13th, 1834.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I am wandering (he says) <i>inter Academiæ silvas</i>, to my great -delight, poring over old books in the Bodleian, and copying -barge-boards and gable-ends, in order to ruin myself as -expeditiously as possible at Heavitree.</p></div> - -<p>Within and without, as time went on, he made the house and gardens -express his varied tastes. Old houses in and about Exeter furnished many -of the treasures which enriched his home. Thus the fireplace in the hall -came from an ancient house pulled down in Rack Street; the gates, the -staircase, much of the panelling and carved woodwork were brought from -“King John’s Tavern.” The cornice of the bathroom had once adorned the -Casa Sanchez in the Alhambra; the old Register chest from Exeter -Cathedral formed the case of the bath. Here, too, he stored his curious -library and exhibited many of the spoils of his foreign -travels—pictures, etchings, engravings, and specimens of Majolica ware.</p> - -<p>For the moment books were laid aside for build<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147">{147}</a></span>ing and gardening. His -letters are filled with his new pleasure. In April 1835 the house began -to be habitable, although he is still “ashamed of it as <i>in presenti</i>; -there are beds but no kitchen,” and “it will hardly hold the -accumulation of books. I am sighing,” he adds, “to drink the sweet -waters of the Nile; and when my book is written, when my house is built, -and when I am ruined, shall go and economise in hundred-gated Thebes.” -Writing April 16th, 1834, he says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>The move from Southernhay to Heavitree was accomplished in three -most sunny days. All the books and other traps duly conveyed into -Myrtle Bower to the tune of a triple bob major of the village -bells. I have already begun digging, and moving plants; to-morrow -comes my man of mortar to plan the kitchen. My pink thorn will be -out in a month: quite a nosegay. You can’t think how snug my upper -drawing-room looks, now it is full of books, ormolu, drawings, etc. -I expect to see you here very shortly, as London must be detestable -now O’Connell rules the land.</p> - -<p>The work of destruction (he writes a week later) proceeds as -rapidly as Dr. Bowring or Lord Johnico could desire. The removal of -the cob has let in a flood of light and a side view over my -extensive landed estate. A part is preserved, overmantled with -ancient ivy (the harbour of slugs, black-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">{148}</a></span>beetles, and earwigs), -which is to be converted into a Moorish ruin, and tricked out with -veritable <i>azulejo</i> from the Alhambra. The myrtles only want an -Andalucian <i>muchacha</i> to be shrubs worthy of Venus. The foundations -of the kitchen will be laid on a rock on Monday next. Meanwhile my -cook roasts meat admirably with a nail and a string.</p> - -<p>I have no vote, or I would go ten miles on foot to record my -contempt for that aristocratical prig, that levelling lordling.</p> - -<p>I have given up the pen for the hoe and spade, all a-delving and -digging. I hope, however, in a week or so, that the <i>obra</i> will be -so far planned and definitely arranged as to send me back to my old -books, which I find the best and surest of resources.</p></div> - -<p>For one brief interval Ford was swept from his garden into the -excitement of political life. On April 8th, 1835, Sir Robert Peel and -his colleagues resigned office over the question of the Irish Church and -Irish Tithes. Under Lord Melbourne a new Government was formed, in which -Lord John Russell, as Home Secretary, was a member of the Cabinet. -Ministers offered themselves for re-election, and Lord John found his -seat in South Devonshire threatened by Mr. Parker. The contest was -keenly fought, excitement ran high, but in the end Mr. Parker won by -twenty-seven votes, and Lord John eventually found a seat at Stroud.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149">{149}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree House</span>, <i>May 3 [1835], Friday Evening</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>We had a drenching rain this morning; it had not rained for many -weeks (it seldom rains except when testy gentlemen come down in -July), but just when Lord Johnny came forward, the heavens poured -forth their phials by buckets. The little man, “the widow’s mite,” -could not be heard for the sweet acclamations of “O’Connell,” “The -tail,” “Cut it short,” “Here’s the Bishop coming.” At every -sentence was a chorus, “That’s a new lie.” All Devon was assembled. -The Parker <i>mob</i> very noisy and violent, but all yeomen and -substantial farmers. Johnny’s crew a sad set, hired at 2/6ᵈ per -man. He was supported by Lord Ebrington and Dr. Bowring.</p> - -<p>Bulteel proposed Johnny; seconded by Lillifant, a sort of a -methodist, a member of the temperance society, which occasioned -much fun and cries of “Heavy wet,” “Brandy.” Parker (a -dandy-looking youth) was proposed in a loud, bold, and successful -speech by Baldwin Fulford, Jr., and seconded in a quieter and -gentlemanlike manner by Stafford Northcote (<i>fils</i>, the -Wykehamist). By this time I was so wet that I made off for -Heavitree, and found my myrtles just washed by a shower, etc.</p> - -<p>I dined yesterday with all the Rads, and sat next to Dr. Bowring. -They do not seem over-confident.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150">{150}</a></span> The Conservatives say that Parker -has a numerical majority, as far as promises go, of 700. They say -the Rads are spending money by sackfuls in inducing Parkerites not -to vote at all.</p> - -<p>I dined the other day with <i>Episcopus</i>, who made grateful mention -of your Excellency, and rejoices in the prospect of your arrival. -So you are in for it, and have nothing to do but to give me notice, -when my niggar shall stand at the <i>Ship</i> in Heavitree to conduct -you to my <i>house</i>. It is in a rare state of external -mortarification; but the interior is tolerable, and there is ample -accommodation for man and beast, master and man, or nags, and -plenty of wholesome food for the mind and body.</p></div> - -<p>For the next eighteen months there are but few allusions in Ford’s -letters to his literary plans, and still fewer to politics. Heavitree -was the absorbing occupation of his life.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Since you have been gone” (he writes to Addington, June 21st, -1833), “I have laid the axe to the foot of the trees, and have cut -down some twenty apples in my orchard, which has let in a great -deal of light and sun, and rejoiced the green grass below. The -weather delicious; thermometer 79 in the shade. I sit under my -drooping elm and cock up my head when I read the works of Socrates, -Plato, and Lady Morgan.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151">{151}</a></span></p> - -<p>“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>Les deux tiers de ma vie sont écoulés. Pourquoi m’inquieter sur -ce qui m’en reste? La plus brillante fortune ne mérite point les -tourments que l’on se donne. Le meilleur de tous les biens, s’il y -a des biens, c’est le repos, la retraite, et un endroit qui soit sa -domaine.’ There’s a black cat for your Excellency to swallow!”</p></div> - -<p>Beyond his cob walls Ford scarcely cared, even in mind, to travel. But -in the affairs of his friends he was still deeply interested, and -especially in the marriages of Lord King and of Addington. On July 8th, -1835, Lord King (cr. 1838 Earl of Lovelace) was married to Augusta Ada, -only daughter of Byron.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The Baron’s bride” (he writes in June) “will be worthy of himself -in name and fortune. I guessed who she was by his sighs and -unpremeditated discoveries. La Bruyère says, ‘In friendship a -secret is confided; in love <i>il nous échappe</i>.’ <i>Viva el Amor!</i>”</p></div> - -<p>A few days later Ford returns to the subject:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>‘Ada! sole daughter of my house and heart!’ From the Baron’s -account she must be perfection, such a perfection as her father’s -fancy and fine phrenzy rolling would have imagined. She is highly -simple, hateth the city and gay world, and will not be likely to -turn up her nose at you and me, the respectable aged friends of her -lord.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152">{152}</a></span></p> - -<p>I believe the Baron has all the elements of domestic felicity in -his composition, and it will go hard even if he did not make a good -wife out of bad materials. But when the <i>prima materia</i> is worthy -of himself, we must expect a scion worthy of the descendants of -Locke and Byron, the union of philosophical esteem with poetic -ardour.</p> - -<p>The book does not progress as much as the chimneys. I never go -beyond my cob walls, have never been out fishing, and probably -never shall until you reappear in these regions.</p></div> - -<p>Little more than a year later, Ford was writing to congratulate -Addington on his engagement.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>October 13, 1836</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,</p> - -<p>You are right. From 20 to 40 a man takes a wife, as a mistress; and -sometimes makes a mistake, gets tired, and wants to change horses. -From 40 to 50 (sometimes 55) a man hugs a spouse to his bosom, for -comfort and sweet companionship. When the hopes of youth, the -heyday of manhood, the recklessness of health and prosperity are -waning,—when he begins to know how few things answer, and how hard -it is to depend on one’s own resources to pass well through the -long day and longer night,—then it is not good to be alone.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">{153}</a></span> You -have felt that, and have now chosen the right moment. Your wild -oats are sown, a good crop of experience reaped, and you have found -(and there is no mistake) that the solitary, selfish system won’t -do.</p> - -<p>Happy, thrice happy are you to be able to bind yourself in those -golden threads, woven by friendship, esteem and love! For love, a -<i>sine quâ non</i>, must be tempered to become durable. <i>Felix quem -faciunt aliena pericula cautum.</i></p> - -<p>You will find, after having had your own way so long, how much more -it tends to peace of mind to give up and be nicely managed and -taken care of. You may amuse yourself with the superintendence of -your cellar, and keep a bottle of Valdepeñas for those old friends -who may occasionally drop in, and twaddle about that fair land -peopled by devils incarnate, male and female.</p> - -<p>I have no news. I am content to dig in my garden; like Candide, <i>il -faut cultiver son jardin</i>—an innocent, refreshing occupation, -which gives health to the body, peace to the mind, oblivion for the -past, hopes for the future;—to do no more harm, if possible, and -as much good,—to bury resentments and cultivate peace and -goodwill, read my Bible and mind my purse, and thank my stars that -matters are no worse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154">{154}</a></span></p> - -<p>The Elizabethan apartment is finished and furnished. <i>Esta casa -esta muy a la disposicion de V.E. y de mi Señora (cuyos pies beso) -la Esposa de V.E.</i> I beg you will speak kindly of me to your fair -bride, as I am anxious to stand well in her opinion. I have had the -good fortune hitherto to have lost neither of two old friends who -have recently married.</p> - -<p>If your Reading plan fails, there are really some very nice places -within 5 and 8 miles of Exon, cheap and delightful. You can make -the place your headquarters, if you have a fancy to look for -habitations amid the green valleys of Devon.</p> - -<p>So, with the best and sincerest wishes for the unmixed and long -happiness of Bride and Bridegroom, and it can hardly fail to be so, -believe me,</p> - -<p class="r"> -Ever most truly yours, <br /> -<span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<p>Addington was married on November 17th, 1836, to Eleanor Anne, eldest -daughter of T. G. Bucknall Estcourt, M.P. Meanwhile Heavitree rapidly -approached completion. Three weeks later Ford announces (December 9th, -1836) that his house was ready. “Heavitree,” he says, “is finished and -furnished, and really is a little gem in its way. The <i>Episcopus</i> has -been to dine here, and, as he dines nowhere, it is rather an honour and -has infused an odour of sanctity over my cell.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155">{155}</a></span>”</p> - -<p>It is not perhaps singular, after so long a devotion to building, that -the first article which Ford contributed to the <i>Quarterly Review</i> -should have been dedicated to “Cob Walls.” The substance of the article -seems from the following letter (February 27th, 1837) to have been a -paper read before the Exeter <i>Athenæum</i>. Among the audience was William -Nassau Senior, whose praise led Lockhart to ask to publish it in the -<i>Quarterly</i>.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Cob, depend upon it, is indestructible. I am about next week to -read a learned paper on that very subject at the Athenæum, which I -will send you, with a chapter on Spanish Comedy.</p> - -<p>The house at Heavitree is now in really a very habitable state, and -the gardens beginning to put on their spring livery. I was heartily -glad to get out of that plague-stricken, foggy, -heart-and-soul-withering city of London, where I was detained more -than a month by the illness of my boy, who is still far from well -and unable to return to his tutor. I am occupied in the parental -task of teaching him chess and the Greek alphabet. I saw very few -of our mutual friends in London, as I was, like the rest of -mankind, under the lowering influenza.</p> - -<p>I have no news here,—leading a humdrum life amid my flowers and -books, with a clean tongue and dirty hands, <i>oblitus et -obliviscendus</i>.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156">{156}</a></span></p> - -<p>Ford’s article on “Cob Walls” well illustrates his literary methods. The -mass of miscellaneous learning, which is concentrated on an unpromising -subject, is so humorously handled as to be entirely free from pedantry. -He traces the use of the material from the time of Cain to that of -modern peasants in France and Spain, from the walls of Babylon to the -white villages of Andalusia. Finally he hazards the bold speculation -that it was introduced into the West of England by Phœnician traders. -But, interspersed with doubtful theories and historical and classical -lore, are clear directions and practical rules for the composition and -employment of a material which is almost indestructible, if it is -protected from damp above and below, or has, to quote the Devonshire -saying, a good hat and a pair of shoes.</p> - -<p>Encouraged by his success, Ford was already engaged on other literary -subjects, when his work was interrupted by the death of his wife, who -had long been in delicate health. The news is communicated to Addington -in the following letter:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Monday</i> [<i>15 May, 1837</i>], 123, <span class="smcap">Park Street</span> [<span class="smcap">London</span>].<br /> -</p> - -<p>You will be sadly shocked with the melancholy import of this -letter; indeed I am so overwhelmed that I hardly know how to -express myself. My poor wife died yesterday morning! She, as you -know, never was well, and latterly has suffered from excruciating -headaches which deprived her entirely of rest. Last Sunday week she -was seized</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;"> -<a name="ill_007" id="ill_007"></a> -<a href="images/ill_008_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_008_sml.jpg" width="359" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><i>Emery Walker Ph Sc.</i></p> - -<p><i>Harriet Ford</i></p> - -<p class="nind"><i>first wife of Richard Ford</i></p> - -<p>1830.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157">{157}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">with a sort of paralysis of the brain and loss of speech. She -remained a few days sensible and recognising those who came into -the room; but on Friday all consciousness was gone, and she -yesterday morning at quarter past 9 breathed her last. I am -dreadfully afflicted.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158">{158}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br /><br /> -HEAVITREE, NEAR EXETER<br /><br /> -(1837-1845)</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Literary Work—Engagement and Second Marriage—Articles in the -<i>Quarterly Review</i>—Preparations for a Tour on the -Continent—Promise to Write the <i>Handbook for Travellers in -Spain</i>—Delays and Interruptions—George Borrow—Reviews of the -<i>Zincali</i> and the <i>Bible in Spain</i>—Suppression of the First -Edition of the <i>Handbook</i>—Final Publication—The <i>Felicidade</i>.</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">By</span> his wife’s death Ford was left with the sole care of the two -daughters and the son, who alone survived out of the six children born -to them. He continued to live on at Heavitree, planning improvements in -his house and garden, busy with his books and pen. During the first few -months of 1837 he contributed two articles to the <i>Quarterly -Review</i>.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> He also published his first independent work, <i>An -Historical Inquiry into the Unchangeable Character of a War in Spain</i>, -in which he made a lively, vigorous reply, from a Tory point<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159">{159}</a></span> of view, -to a pamphlet written in defence of Lord Palmerston’s attitude towards -Spain, <i>The Policy of England towards Spain</i>.</p> - -<p>As usual, his work was submitted to Addington for criticism.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>In your miserable days of celibacy (he writes to his friend in May -1837) you waded through much of my MSS. Now I only trouble you with -print, as you have less time to devote to those solitary -occupations. I send you the proofs of a review on Pückler Muskau. -Will you skim it over, and send it back <i>per</i> twopenny post? If you -object to anything, or can add a barb or sting to any critical -fish-hook, do so.</p> - -<p>You will see “Cob” in the last number of the <i>Quarterly</i>. <i>Viva Don -Carlos!</i></p></div> - -<p>Addington’s criticisms were gratefully received, and his suggestions -generally adopted. But Ford could not, if he had wished, write otherwise -than he was. He had the good sense to know, and not to attempt, the -impossible.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Many thanks for your valuable critical emendations, which have been -duly and thankfully introduced. I fear my <i>liberal</i> education and -foreign travel will never enable me to spell either my own or any -other language. You can form no idea how very difficult it is for a -hasty, <i>currente calamo</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160">{160}</a></span> slipshod writer like me to form a -critical, sober, proper style. That stile is always in my way, as -it is in the country; I shall never, I fear, change my old into the -new stile, nor get my writing stile, <i>stilus</i>, sufficiently -pointed, although whetted on so excellent a bone as your Excellency -is. You are quite qualified to be the Editor of the <i>Quarterly -Review</i>, and I wish you were, for I wonder Lockhart overlooks the -manifest flaws you detect.</p> - -<p>I am by no means averse to the <i>limæ labor</i>, and am really anxious -to turn out my wares in a workmanlike manner; I often take more -pains with them than you or my readers will give me credit for.</p></div> - -<p>Between July 1837 and April 1838 Ford contributed nothing to the -<i>Review</i>. Beyond putting the final touches to articles already prepared -for the press, his pen was idle. He had become engaged to a lady whom he -had known intimately for several years, the Hon. Eliza Cranstoun, sister -of the tenth Lord Cranstoun. On October 7th, 1837, he writes of his -engagement to Addington:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>As the affair has been the unceasing nine days’ wonder of this part -of the world, it is no longer a secret, and has been duly -communicated to Lord Essex. Therefore you may participate to the -fair partner of your joys the important secret so long concealed in -the diplomatic depths of your silent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161">{161}</a></span> bosom, “<i>un secreto de -importanza</i>.” I hope in due time that these ladies will meet, and -like each other, and be equally of opinion, that no men make such -excellent, super-excellent husbands as those who have lived in the -world, been in Spain, and <i>not been</i> there for three or four years.</p> - -<p>Be assured that there is no truth in my selling my Alhambra. My -Sultana, who disposes of me, and my house, and all, is pleased with -the idea of leading a loving, rational, quiet life there. The -Moorish tower is finished, and covered with arabesque <i>Lienzo</i> -work, and is prettier than the Puerta del Vino of the Alhambra.</p></div> - -<p>The marriage took place February 24th, 1838, and Mr. and Mrs. Ford began -life together at Heavitree.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>March 6, 1838</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Your kind and friendly letter (as all indeed have been and are) was -duly and gratefully received by me, and dutifully communicated to -that sweet person in whose keeping I have placed myself and my -happiness, and, having done so, my perturbed spirit is at rest. -This ceremony took place on the 24th, at Stoke Gabriel, a beautiful -little hamlet in one of those quiet sequestered nooks on the Dart, -where the woods slope into the clear waters, a locality <i>dulces qui -suadet amores</i>. She was very<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162">{162}</a></span> nervous and affected, but went -through the trying scene with that purity, grace, and propriety -which mark all she says or does. I was nervous, but very collected, -and think few men were more aware than I was, how much and entirely -the future depends on the husband. I am not afraid of myself, and -less of her. We returned to Sandridge, and in the afternoon -proceeded quietly to this quiet cell, gladdened with the sunny -presence of a cheerful, contented mistress. She is highly pleased -with her abode <i>and</i> (I am pleased to say) with the master. All is -placed at her <i>disposicion</i>. Indeed, since you were here so much -has been done, internally and externally, that you would not know -the place. I am in hopes, now there is a fit personage to receive -her, that some day <i>die gnädige Frau Gesandterrinn</i> (<i>C.P.B.</i>) will -honour this (her) house. The Moorish trellis-walk and the tower are -worth seeing. We are expecting Lord Cranstoun here to-day, and King -on the 10th. Strange that he should come to witness my hymeneals, -as we did his. We shall then proceed reluctantly to London. I have -got rid of my house in Jermyn Street at a sad loss of coin, but a -great gain of peace. I am still hampered with the <i>Casita</i> in -Lowndes Street, where my children are. I hope this year to get rid -of that, and then to pitch my tent here, far from the <i>opes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163">{163}</a></span> -strepitumque Romæ</i>. I am going to build a small Britzka, and have -bought another nag, which goes well in harness with my old horse, -you will remember. Madame rides well, and has a beautiful horse -which her brother has given her. We think of driving up to town, -and be not therefore surprised at an intimation that we may take -you in the way for a night. I will present you to my spouse, and -you will do me the same service by yours, to whom I in anticipation -offer my profound respects. I meditate an article on Spanish -Heraldry and on Bull-fighting. So farewell. Cherish your spouse, -and think no more of the past nor <i>las tierras calientes</i>.</p></div> - -<p>The two articles to which Ford alludes at the close of the letter were -published before the end of the year. Both were full of curious -information gleaned from a wide field. The article on “Bull Fights” is -remarkably complete and exhaustive, and is especially interesting from -the personal observation which lightens the historical details. Before -publication it had been submitted to Addington for criticism.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>Aug. 16, 1838</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Many thanks for your tororesque notices. I have finished the -paper,—<i>opus exegi</i>,—having worked incessantly for a fortnight -five or six hours a day. The MSS. goes up with this to the -printer’s. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">{164}</a></span> have begged him to send you a proof: will you be so -kind as to run it over, and forward it here <i>per</i> mail <i>quam -primum</i>? Never mind correcting the press, except <i>the Spanish</i>.</p> - -<p>The article is long, and I am not afraid of your Excellency’s -shears, and will gladly avail myself of any proposed excisions or -additions. Any word or idea more pungent than my poor thoughts -might be pencilled in the margin. The article is extremely learned -and tororesque. I think the old subject is treated newly. I hope -Murray will treat me to £36 15<i>s.</i>, as gaunt poverty flits about my -gilded ceiling. I wish you could see the dining-room, all blue, -red, yellow, and green <i>à la</i> Mamhead, very gay and brilliant. -Madame is quite well and happy, and salutes your <i>dimidium vitæ -animæque</i>. We are going next week for a few days to Sandridge, a -place of her brother’s. I shall then hurry back to correct the -press. I intend <i>summing</i> up with a few general remarks on the -moral tendency and effect on Spanish character produced by the -bull-fight. If you have ever philosophically cogitated thereon, -favour me with a few “<span class="lftspc">’</span>ints.” My idea is that the Spaniards were -cruel and ferocious before they had bull-fights; that bull-fights -are rather an effect than a cause, albeit they reciprocate now; -that the savage part is lost on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">{165}</a></span> them from early habit; that the -sporting feeling predominates; and that strangers are hardly fair -judges, for they feel <i>first</i> excitement, then bore, then disgust; -<i>bore</i> the predominant. Still, the whole is magnificent, though the -details (like Paris) are miserable. I should like to have a neat -peroration, and am going to meditate on the subject in those shady -groves which hang over the clear Dart, where we as bachelors used -to toil and catch no fish, and where I caught that fish which has -swallowed up all others and all my cares besides.</p></div> - -<p><i>Spanish Bull-feasts and Bull-fights</i> created something of a sensation -in the literary world. It was noticed with high praise in the journals -of the time, and Ford writes to thank Addington for an extract which he -had himself overlooked.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>December 5 [1838]</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The critique is so palatable, that I beg you will not think I wrote -it myself. Pray, as you will be in franking-land, let me know -whence you extracted it. I am delighted. I want people to think -that I <i>could</i>, if I wished, write a d—d, long, dry, serious -essay, which they would <i>not</i> read. The political pepper flavours -the <i>Puchero</i>, and it is exactly <i>that</i> that makes Lockhart write -to me that all the world cries “Bravo!”</p> - -<p>I am buttered by Murray, and considered a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166">{166}</a></span> man of <i>deep research</i>. -<i>Dii boni!</i> and people <i>regret</i> that I “should <i>persifler</i>, and -amuse, instead of boring.”</p></div> - -<p>Ford had undertaken a review of Prescott’s <i>Ferdinand and Isabella</i>, “an -admirable book,” he tells Addington, “the <i>best</i> book ever written by a -Yankee.” But he found the task difficult. On February 9th, 1839, he -writes to Addington from his mother’s house in London:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Your letter followed me to this foggy, careworn abode of attorneys, -and men who sow tares in the corn of human happiness. I have been -up here nearly three weeks, to my infinite worry and the fret of an -absent and disconsolate spouse, about mortgages and the devil knows -what of my own and my mother. I hope to get back again to my -pleasant house <i>et placens uxor</i> before the end of next week.</p> - -<p>All these breaks interfere sadly with literary pursuits. The -rolling stone gathers no moss. Prescott, promised half a year ago, -is not yet begun! In fact, I blink, bolt, shy and jib from the -task. Meanwhile, to keep my pen in, I have written a lightish -article on <i>Ronda and Granada</i>, which looks well in print, and will -come out in the next number, and Prescott in the June number.</p> - -<p>I have read Gurwood attentively, which took six<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167">{167}</a></span> weeks, and never -were six weeks better employed. Murray tells me that the Duke cut -out as much more as would have made six more volumes. What a pity! -But they will be printed when that great man is gone. <i>Serus in -cœlum redeat!</i></p> - -<p>Do you know that I am <i>up</i> in the market, and that my articles are -thought No. 1, Letter A,—clear grit? I am fed by those who usually -feed lions, and curious people are asked to meet <i>me</i>. This is not -unamusing. I have seen “Sam Slick” (Haliburton); Scrope, who wrote -that charming book on <i>Deer Stalking</i>; Jones of the Alhambra, -Marryat, etc., and I do not know who. Murray feeds well, and his -claret is particular; “Bulls” £36 15<i>s.</i>; so my papers rise in -value. Lockhart’s <i>Ballads</i> are to be republished, and I rather -think that I am to edit them. All this looks like turning author. -Who would have thought it? and to have a character for most -profound reading and research! <i>Dii boni!</i></p> - -<p>I met a friend of yours yesterday at Lockhart’s—Mr. Best: we had a -pleasant dinner; Scrope and Lord Selkirk, great shooters and -fishers, whose healthy exploits gave a game flavour to the blue men -around them. If I remained here, neither head, nor legs, nor -<i>entrañas</i> could do their work. It is all very well now and then. -But <i>oh rus!<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168">{168}</a></span> quando te aspiciam</i>? Not but what, if I had £5000 a -year, I would spend three months in this metropolis to rub off -rust, keep up acquaintances, and hear the news up to Saturday -night.</p></div> - -<p>Six weeks later he was still engaged on his task. He writes from -Heavitree, April 2nd, 1839:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I have been occupied, since my return to these myrtle bowers, in a -review on Prescott’s <i>Ferdinand and Isabella</i>. I ought to have done -it long ago; but I deferred and deferred. <i>Mañana, mañana!</i> I find -it a tougher job than I had expected, and almost think that I have -undertaken a task for which I am unfit. However, <i>stultorum numerus -est infinitus</i>, and I presume on people knowing less than myself. -It will be a mighty dull, learned, and historical affair.</p> - -<p>I am not very well, as I cannot sleep. I never can when I write, -and believe you are right to hunt and fish, the original -<i>délassement</i> of a gentleman.</p></div> - -<p>At last <i>Ferdinand and Isabella</i> was finished and published. The article -deals more with the subject than with the book. It is, however, -important from the new lights which it throws upon the period, drawn -from the writer’s intimate knowledge, not only of the history, but of -the country and the people. Some trace of effort appears in the unusual -elaboration. But another article which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169">{169}</a></span> was printed in the same number -of the <i>Quarterly</i> was in Ford’s most characteristic vein. This was a -review of <i>Oliver Twist</i>. In a letter dated April 29th, 1839, he had -asked Addington’s opinion of Dickens’ style, and given his own view. “I -am inclined to think it,” he says, “the reaction from the Silver Fork -school and the Rosa Matildas, ‘<i>car le dégoût du beau amène le goût du -singulier</i>.’<span class="lftspc">”</span> He also regarded the book as a product and a sign of -democratic times. Both the literary and political theories are developed -in the <i>Quarterly</i>, where he describes “Boz” as “a lively half-bred colt -of great promise, bone and action,—sire, ‘Constantine the Great,’—dam, -‘Reform.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p> - -<p>“Constantine the Great” is Constantine Henry Phipps, first Marquis of -Normanby, and the most distinguished of the “prattling scribbling -Phippses.” His kid-glove novels and romances, founded on actual -occurrences in society, tickled the curiosity of the public. Newspapers -still further pandered to the same taste; “Perry and Stewart led the way -by chronicling and posting the dinners, wooings, and marriages of high -life.” But a diet of water gruel palled, and the patient “clamoured for -beef and stout.” Sickened of the “smooth confectionery style,” -“disgusted with die-away <i>divorcées</i> and effeminate man-milliners,” the -public fled in despair to “rude, rough, human, ‘Dusty-Bob’ nature.” Such -was Ford’s explanation of the appearance of <i>Oliver Twist</i>. As a Tory, -and an Irish mortgagee, he was no doubt pleased to treat the author of -<i>Matilda</i>, and <i>Yes or No</i> as one of these “Catilines in politics and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170">{170}</a></span> -literature” who had helped forward “a depraved taste” and “the -degradation of the higher classes, whether monarchical, clerical, or -aristocratical.” Not only had Lord Normanby changed sides and deserted -the Tories for the Liberals, but, as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland -(1835-39), his attempt to conciliate O’Connell, his patronage of the -Catholic Party, and his leniency towards political crime, had, in the -opinion of his opponents, endangered the very existence of law and -order. Politics apart, the review shows a keen appreciation of the -genius and faults of Dickens. It concludes with a just tribute to the -haunting power of George Cruikshank, for whom Ford demands admission to -the rank of a Royal Academician: “We are really surprised that such -judges as Wilkie, Landseer, Leslie, Allan, etc., have not ere now -insisted on breaking through all puny laws, and giving this man of -undoubted genius a diploma.”</p> - -<p>The last months of the year were spent in preparations for a tour -abroad. Addington and his wife were also going, and were to meet the -Fords at Rome.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Many thanks (writes Ford, August 4th, 1839) for all your valuable -hints. I rather incline to cross over from Weymouth to Cherbourg, -or, if not so, from Southampton to Jersey and St. Malo. As I intend -to go through the south, it will be <i>autant de gagné sur la belle -France</i>. I take it we shall have bad inns between St. Malo and -Toulouse. <i>No hay atajo sin trabajo</i> [no con<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171">{171}</a></span>venience without -inconvenience]. We shall follow your steps with due respect, and, I -hope, meet in the Eternal City.</p> - -<p>I progress greatly in design, and am washing in skies which are -heavier than lead. I reckon on <i>your</i> portable library and beg to -tell you that I take Shakespeare, Burton’s <i>Rome</i>, and Conder’s -<i>Italy</i>, which will always be <i>á la disposicion de V.E. y de mi -Señora la Esposa de V.E. (C.P.B.)</i></p> - -<p>I have just bought a charming Britzka here which was made at -Vienna, and shall therefore jog down with all my traps, pictorial -and piscatorial. I am sorry that you do not take your rod and line. -How little room they will take! and <i>quien sabe?</i> Who knows what -trout spring in Terni’s fall? I never was so agog for migration, -and intend to go the whole Continental hog.</p> - -<p>You will have the pleasure of seeing your old friend Sir Richard -Ottley at Naples,—he who asked us to dine at 5 to meet the Miss -Barings. We will not dine with him at Naples, be his macaroni -royal. His daughter has turned Roman Catholic: so much for taking -imaginative maidens into the glowing climes of Italian <i>Abates</i>.</p> - -<p>We have been all gaieties here. The great squires have been giving -<i>déjeuners</i>, with archery and pine-apples, under tents. We will eat -<i>polpette</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172">{172}</a></span> drink Orvieto in the Eternal City, and grow young and -forget years and care.</p></div> - -<p>Ford returned from the Continent in July 1840. Of his travels no account -exists, as he journeyed in company with Addington, who alone preserved -his letters. But he writes, September 7th, 1840, to welcome his friend -back to England from “the land of macaroni and sour crout.”</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Did you (he asks) get a letter from me at Milan? It contained an -account of my Sicilian trip and of our hurried flight home. We -drove through France as hard as four horses could go, and crossed -from Havre on the 14th of July—nine months to a day.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile we are slowly recovering from the vast scarifications and -bleedings of <i>Italia cum Gallia</i>. I am afraid to look at all the -items; I should like to see your sum total. <i>N’importe!</i> It was a -gallant trip, and shed a flood of new light and sources of future -reading, writing, and drawing on one’s mind.</p> - -<p>When you were in Rome I asked you to lend me your <i>Minaño, -diccionario de España</i>. I am going to do a handbook for Spain for -Murray, and we have not been able to get a Minaño in London. I will -take the greatest care of it, and send you an early copy of the -book when written and when published—when!!—for your fee. Will -you pack</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 391px;"> -<a name="ill_008" id="ill_008"></a> -<a href="images/ill_009_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_009_sml.jpg" width="391" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> - -<p><i> -Antonio Chatelain Pinx <span style="margin-left: 4em;"> Emery Walker Ph Sc.</span></i><br /> -</p> - -<p><i>Richard Ford</i></p> - -<p><i>1840</i>.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173">{173}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">it up and send it me <i>per</i> coach? I hope to do the little book -before February.</p></div> - -<p><i>The Handbook for Travellers in Spain</i>, here first mentioned, seems to -have been undertaken almost in jest. In 1839, when Ford was dining with -John Murray, the publisher, his host asked him to recommend a man to -write a Spanish guide-book. “I will do it myself,” replied Ford, and -thought no more on the subject. But, after his return from abroad, -Murray definitely asked him to write the book. His estimate of the time -necessary to complete the work proved far too moderate. Instead of six -months, the myrtle and ivy-clad garden-house at Heavitree, to which he -retired as a study, was for nearly five years the scene of his labours. -Week after week he sat at his inky deal table, clad in his Spanish -jacket of black sheepskin, surrounded by shelves laden with -parchment-clad folios and quartos, by pigeon-holes crammed with notes to -repletion, and by piles of manuscript which gradually encumbered the -chairs and floor. Here he entertained his visitors with his -book-rarities, and poured forth his complaints, half serious, half -humorous, of the slavery to which he had condemned himself.</p> - -<p>In spite of its modest title, the <i>Handbook</i> is really a most -entertaining encyclopedia of Spanish history and antiquities, religion -and art, life and manners. But the slavery might have been less -protracted if it had been mitigated by fewer distractions. Nor had Ford -acquired the habit of prolonged labour on a lengthy subject. Review<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174">{174}</a></span> -writing had encouraged him in the short bursts of literary industry, -concentrated on a comparatively restricted field, which were most -congenial to his natural tastes and character. No doubt, as time went -on, and as he realised the magnitude of his task, he grew heartily weary -of the <i>Handbook</i>. But it may be doubted whether the form is not the -best that, under the circumstances, he could have chosen. At all events, -no trace of effort appears in the lively vivacious style which -communicated to the reader a prodigious mass of information in the -easiest possible manner.</p> - -<p>More than two months passed before the book was begun. Even then it was -interrupted by other literary work.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>13 September, 1840</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The Minaños are duly arrived, and to-morrow will leave this library -for a den in a cottage here in my garden, where I am going to -retire and compose <i>Handbook</i>. What a mass of matter the said -Minaño contains, and how will it be simmered down into a gallipot -guide-book?</p> - -<p>I have no news yet of the macaroni; but it is in London. Let me -know how you feel as to sharing in the <i>rotuli</i>. There is no -delicacy in refusing, if the taste be swamped by eating German sour -crout, as there are more amateurs for that article hereabouts than -for Rafaello ware. By the way, I could indeed turn one honest penny -by those pots<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175">{175}</a></span> and plates, having been offered <i>guineas</i> for what -cost <i>scudi</i>, and having weeded my collection very nearly to the -amount of the prime cost. The marbles are still in the agents’ -custody, as I have nowhere to put them here. But buying what one -does not want is the veritable malaria of the Via Babuino.</p> - -<p>The weather is so delicious that I have not the heart to begin -work. I take a lesson every day in drawing, and am going through -the whole of my sketches, which then will be put in a huge book. It -is wonderful, as in the case of Spain, how they carry you back to -scenes long forgotten, and awaken a million events hived in the -brain, which, like dewdrops on the boughs, only fall when touched! -There’s a go!</p> - -<p>I don’t wonder at the contending elements that are now fermenting -in your noddle. They will all settle down into a delicious elixir -to sweeten future existence, and make cheerful the domestic -fireside when a lull comes—which will happen, and indeed ought to -happen, as we can’t be always living on cayenne and lollypops.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>November 6, 1840.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I assure you I have been so scared about war, and the exposed site -of Heavitree between Exmouth and Exeter, that I have been -meditating moving<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176">{176}</a></span> up land my Wilsons and <i>roba fina</i>. However, I -think the storm is clearing away. <i>Vive</i> Louis Philippe!</p> - -<p>While you are hunting of foxes, I am going to hunt through Minaño. -I begin Spanish Handbook next week.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Wednesday, November 18, 1840.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>The Minaños frighten me, like the great Genius did the Arabian -fisherman. How am I to get this mass into the small pot or -duodecimo handbook?</p> - -<p>Handbook lingers. I have made no progress, and am tempted to give -it up. I am all for the sublime and beautiful, sententious and -sesquipedalian. I can’t cool my style to the tone of a way-bill.</p></div> - -<p>Gradually the work shaped itself in his mind and in print.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Part of Handbook” (he writes, January 14th, 1841) “is gone to -press.” “I am meditating” (he says, February 16th, 1841) “a serious -go at the Handbook, and have got about forty pages of preliminary -remarks in print, which I am told are amusing. I have written them -off like a letter, <i>sermone pedestri</i>, without, however, forgetting -the <i>ajo y cibolla</i> [garlic and onion].”</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177">{177}</a></span></p> - -<p>On March 26th, 1841, the first batch was sent to Addington.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“I send you a few sheets of Handbook. If your eyes will permit you -to run through it, pray correct any error or make any suggestion. I -have done about fifty pages (letterpress) more. The object I have -is to combine learning with facetiousness, <i>utile dulci</i>.”</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>April 11, 1841</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The print is damnable, and what is worse is the enormous quantity -it takes to a page. All this preliminary part, which will run to -two hundred pages, is an after-thought of mine. Murray only -bargained for distances and mere lionizing. It appears to me that -the traveller in a <i>Venta</i> will thank me for an amusing bit of -reading. How often have I cursed Starke<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> for the contrary, and I -hope to give a true insight into Spanish manners.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>May 4, 1841.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I have already expunged the bits that you objected to, and the -sheets read all the better for it. I grieve deeply that the print -is so execrable. But you cannot tell what a service your sound -censorship is. I write <i>currente calamo</i> in a sort of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178">{178}</a></span> -slip-slap-and-shod style both as to matter and language. It comes -boiling over like a soda-water bottle, and I cannot help it. I -daresay that, if I had more time, I should make it <i>worse</i>, as it -would be more laboured.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>November 3, 1841.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I am not so bigoted a Carlist as to think all reform a wilderness. -But my antiquarian, artistical and <i>romantic</i> predilections make me -grieve at seeing barbarous destructives overturning in an hour the -works of ages of taste and magnificence. This age can only destroy: -witness cheap, compo churches <i>versus</i> cathedrals.</p> - -<p>I am getting very slowly on. But I hope it may be done by May or -June. I intend in a short preface to allude to the “state of -transition” of the moment. But some things are fixed—country, -ruins, battlefields, history of the past. All that can be pointed -out. I am only afraid it will be <i>too</i> good.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>November 18, 1841.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I am sick of Handbook. I meditate bringing out the first volume, -the <i>preliminary</i> and the most difficult, early next spring. It is -nearly completed. It is a series of essays, and has plagued me to -death. The next volume will be more mechanical and -matter-of-fact—what Murray wanted; and I am<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179">{179}</a></span> an ass for my pains. -I have been throwing pearly articles into the trough of a -road-book. However, there will be stuff in it.</p></div> - -<p>Weary of the <i>Handbook</i>, Ford turned from it with relief to a subject -after his own heart. In 1841 George Borrow published his <i>Zincali; or an -Account of the Gypsies in Spain</i>. Interested both in the writer and his -work, his own mind absorbed in Spanish life, Ford laid aside the -<i>Handbook</i> to write an article on the book, which he had himself -recommended to Murray for publication. His article ultimately appeared -in the <i>British and Foreign Review</i> (No. XXVI., p. 367).</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I have made acquaintance (he tells Addington, January 14th, 1841) -with an extraordinary fellow, <i>George Borrow</i>, who went out to -Spain to convert the <i>gipsies</i>. He is about to publish his failure, -and a curious book it will be. It was submitted to my perusal by -the hesitating Murray.</p> - -<p>Borrow is done (he writes November 3rd, 1841), and I daresay will -soon be printed. I took the greatest pains with it, and Lockhart, -on reading a portion, wrote to me that it was “perfect”—a great -word from a man not prodigal of praise.</p></div> - -<p>In an undated letter to John Murray, he says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I have written a very careful review of Borrow’s <i>Gypsies</i>, with -which Lockhart seems well pleased.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180">{180}</a></span> The book has created a great -sensation far and wide. I was sure it would, and I hope you think -that when I read the MS. my opinion and advice were sound.</p> - -<p>I have now a letter from Borrow telling me that he has nearly -completed his <i>Bible in Spain</i>. I have given him much advice,—to -avoid Spanish historians and <i>poetry</i> like Prussic acid; to stick -to himself, his biography, and queer adventures. He writes: “I -shall attend to all your advice. The book will consist entirely of -my personal adventures, travels, etc., in that country during five -years. I met with a number of strange characters, all of whom I -have introduced; the most surprising of them is my Greek servant, -who accompanied me in my ride of 1500 miles.”</p> - -<p>The author writes again, November 8th: “<i>The Bible in Spain</i> is a -rum, very rum, mixture of gipseyism, Judaism, and missionary -adventure, and I have no doubt will be greedily read.”</p> - -<p>I have some thoughts of asking him down here with his MS., and -pruning it a little for him.</p></div> - -<p>An early copy of <i>The Bible in Spain</i> seems to have been given to Ford -by John Murray. In a letter<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> to the publisher he thus describes its -character.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181">{181}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I read Borrow with great delight all the way down per rail, and it -shortened the rapid flight of that velocipede. You may depend upon -it that the book will sell, which, after all, is the rub. It is the -antipodes of Lord Carnarvon, and yet how they tally in what they -have in common, and that is much—the people, the scenery of -Galicia, and the suspicions and absurdities of Spanish -Jacks-in-office, who yield not in ignorance or insolence to any -kind of red-tapists, hatched in the hot-beds of jobbery and -utilitarian mares-nests. Borrow spares none of them. I see he hits -right and left, and floors his man whenever he meets him. I am -pleased with his honest sincerity of purpose and his graphic abrupt -style. It is like an old Spanish ballad, leaping <i>in medias res</i>, -going from incident to incident, bang, bang, bang, hops, steps, and -jumps like a cracker, and leaving off like one, when you wish he -would give you another touch or <i>coup de grâce</i>.</p> - -<p>He really puts me in mind of Gil Blas; but he has not the sneer of -the Frenchman, nor does he gild the bad. He has a touch of Bunyan, -and, like that enthusiastic tinker, hammers away, <i>à la Gitano</i>, -whenever he thinks he can thwack the Devil or his man-of-all-work -on earth—the Pope. Therein he resembles my friend and everybod<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182">{182}</a></span>y’s -friend—<i>Punch</i>—who, amidst all his adventures, never spares the -black one.</p> - -<p>However, I am not going to review him now; for I know that Mr. -Lockhart has expressed a wish that I should do it for the -<i>Quarterly Review</i>. Now, a wish from my liege master is a command. -I had half engaged myself elsewhere, thinking that he did not quite -appreciate such a <i>trump</i> as I know Borrow to be. He is as full of -meat as an egg, and a fresh-laid one—not one of your Inglis breed, -long addled by over-bookmaking. Borrow will lay you golden eggs, -and hatch them after the ways of Egypt; put salt on his tail and -secure him in your coop, and beware how any poacher coaxes him with -‘raisins’ or reasons out of the Albemarle preserve.</p> - -<p>When you see Mr. Lockhart tell him that I will do the paper. I owe -my entire allegiance to the <i>Q. R.</i> flag.... Perhaps my -understanding the <i>full force</i> of this “gratia” makes me -over-partial to this wild Missionary; but I have ridden over the -same tracks without the tracts, seen the same people, and know that -he is true, and I believe that he believes all that he writes to be -true.</p></div> - -<p>Before the book appeared, Ford had already begun a review of the -work,<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> the progress of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183">{183}</a></span> he reports to Addington: “Borrow has -got,” says a letter dated June 28th, 1842, “a very singular book coming -out—<i>The Bible in Spain</i>—the place where one would be the least likely -to meet it.” “How gat it there?” he asks later (November 21st), and -describes the book as “a sort of Gil Blas and Bunyan rolled together.” -His review came out in the <i>Edinburgh Review</i> for February 1843 (vol. -lxxvii. pp. 105-38).</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I have been very busy (he writes, December 16th, 1842) about -Borrow’s <i>Bible in Spain</i>. It is a most curious book, and mind you -read it, if you can steal a moment. In the last <i>Quarterly</i> there -is a paper by Lockhart, principally extracts, which will only give -you a slight notion of the contents of the <i>chorizo</i> [sausage]. The -first sentence will amuse you, in which Lockhart grieves that he -let slip my gipsy paper.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> I would have done one for the -<i>Quarterly Review</i>, but he only could give me five days. That was -enough to write with <i>a pair of scissors</i>, but not quite for such a -paper as the subject deserved. So I have done a <i>grandis et verbosa -epistola</i>, which has been offered to the <i>Ed. Rev.</i>, and graciously -accepted with many civil speeches. It is very careful, enters into -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184">{184}</a></span> philosophy of Spanish fanaticism, etc., very anti-Gallican.</p></div> - -<p>Borrow, writing to John Murray, February 25th, 1843, alludes to the -<i>Edinburgh</i> article as “exceedingly brilliant and clever, but rather too -epigrammatic, quotations scanty and not correct. Ford is certainly a -most astonishing fellow; he quite flabbergasts me—handbooks, reviews, -and I hear that he has just been writing a ‘Life of Velasquez’ for the -<i>Penny Cyclopædia</i>.” But Ford’s infidelity to the orthodox organ -provoked a characteristic note from the Duke of Wellington: “My dear Mr. -Ford,” he wrote, “you think the Lord will forgive your former -Whiggishisms: I daresay He may, but the Devil will have his due, and the -contributions to the <i>Edinburgh</i> are items in his account.” With these -and many other interruptions, the <i>Handbook</i> had made slow progress. -Still, in its first draft, it was approaching completion.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>Jan. 10, 1843</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>How you must have disported in rural idleness. <i>Oh Rus!</i> Here we -have enough of it, and too much of local festivities. How the -excise can fall off I can’t imagine. Here Belly is the god of all -classes. The squires are not scared with the tariff, which by the -way has done me no good in any respect, nor any one else that I can -hear of, while the income tax is a real, tangible, awful evil.</p> - -<p>Drawing flourishes, and I am now making a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185">{185}</a></span> Spanish volume, and have -begun with Toledo, glorious, rock-built, imperial Toledo!</p> - -<p>I meditate coming up to town at Easter with my two girls, who are -now assuming the <i>toga muliebris</i>, having discarded their -governess. The next step is a husband, and, when once a grandpapa, -I shall consider the 5th act of the <i>comedia imbrogliata</i> as fast -approaching. I shall bring up the Spanish drawings, and, if any -should revive in your Excellency recollections of pleasant days -gone by, I shall be proud to make you any you may select for your -private portfolio.</p> - -<p>Borrow is a queer chap. I believe that an extra number of the -<i>Edinburgh</i> is to come out next month, when my article will appear. -I have just got an application to write the life of Velazquez for -the <i>Penny Cyclopædia</i>. Murray will sigh for his <i>Handbook</i> as you -do for the country; but I am so interrupted that I have never -fairly gone to work, and, as it is, at least two-thirds of what I -have got together must be exscinded, but they are a useful mass of -work got up for any future object.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>27th Feb., /43</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The enclosed will amuse, if not <i>convince</i> you. I believe Borrow to -be honest, albeit a <i>Gitano</i>. His biography will be passing strange -if he tells the <i>whole</i> truth. He is now writing it by my advice.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186">{186}</a></span></p> - -<p>Have you found time to run through my paper in the last <i>Edinburgh -Review</i>, which the critic<i>ee</i> lauds so much and <i>pour cause</i>? The -value of a thing is, however, just what it will <i>bring</i>, and the -thirty-two pages brought me £<i>44</i>, well and truly paid by the canny -Scot, Napier, who does not throw away cash without “<i>value -received</i>.” Verily the Whigs pay well, and will <i>do</i> Murray by -seducing his light troops. Hayward (also a Quarterly reviewer like -me) figures in the last blue and bluff; <i>proh pudor! et nummos!</i> -his paper on “Advertising” is droll.</p> - -<p>I have invested my £44 in Château Margaux.</p> - -<p><i>Handbook</i> is done—that is, I have done my <i>own hobby</i>, and have -covered a haycock of reams with the past and present of Spain: -antiquities, art, history, manners, scenery, battles, and what not. -Now comes the <i>rub</i>, to cut out all that is good and simmer it down -to a way-bill. I <i>shy</i> and “gib” like a Pegasus in a dung-cart.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Weymouth</span>, <i>July 30, 1843</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am here with all my family, first and second,<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> great and -small, having been dabbling in brick, mortar, and paint at -home—wild vagaries you will</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"> -<a name="ill_009" id="ill_009"></a> -<a href="images/ill_010_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_010_sml.jpg" width="368" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> - -<p><i> -Marianne Houton, del <span style="margin-left: 4em;">Emery Walker Ph. Sc.</span></i><br /> -</p> - -<p><i>Margaret Henrietta Ford</i></p> - -<p><i>1854</i>.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187">{187}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">say for a man who <i>lives</i> on an Irish mortgage; but those who have read -Milesian and Iberian annals will take things coolly: <i>son cosas de -España y Irlanda</i>, where peace and order are the exception, not the -rule, and where row and blarney are as wholesome as fire to the -salamander. I, however, wish we had a <i>government</i>. It would have been -just as easy, instead of reading a sentence from a king’s speech, to -have declared mooting repeal high treason.</p> - -<p>There is no conciliating an enemy. Knock him down. “Hit him hardest in -the weakest point,” <i>once</i> said the Iron Duke. Now enemies sneer and -despise, and good friends are cooled and stand aloof. Peel’s -unpopularity in the far west is daily increasing; <i>low</i> prices will ruin -us all.</p> - -<p>I set out to-morrow for town, having a week’s absence. I shall bring up -Minaño, <i>con muchas y muchissimas gracias</i>. I have kept it an -unconscionable while; but it has produced a bairn, which I shall beg -your acceptance of: not much of a bairn, a Spanish parturition, a mouse -from a mountain.</p> - -<p>Minaño’s book, whatever people may say, is an admirable compilation. -<i>Handbook</i> is <i>written</i>. Poor old Murray’s death has deranged the types -in Albemarle Street, and these <i>rows</i> in Spain are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">{188}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">not favourable to the man with the notebook; however, I shall -settle something this next week.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>Oct. 10, 1843</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>While you have been up to your middle in No. 6548, I have been -boating and catching mackerel at Weymouth, eating Portland mutton, -and dreaming of George III. Now the falling leaf has warned us to -see the warm household and penates. The <i>Domus</i> has been painted, -and a new wing added, which is not paid for. The <i>placens uxor</i> is -well and much improved by sea air; the <i>chiquilla</i> is in stupendous -force, and rejoicing in a new hoop.</p> - -<p>We shall have the railroad open to this place next May, and then -you and Madame might run down and rusticate here amid the myrtles -and forget Downing Street. I was rather idle at Weymouth; ’tis the -quality of a watering-place; but now I am simmering and resimmering -at Handbook; which although done, waits the <i>imprimatur</i> of Murray. -The times are out of joint as regards Spanish travelling. I met a -man yesterday at dinner just returned from a tour in Spain. Nothing -can exceed the dilapidation and demoralisation. This new outbreak -has come like the war after Ferdinand VII.’s death, to blight the -improvements which quiet was producing. That<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189">{189}</a></span> French influence and -Christina gold effected the matter, no one doubts in Spain. The -French are hated and the English not unpopular.</p> - -<p>Borrow writes me word that his <i>life</i> is nearly ready, and that it -will run the <i>Bible</i> hull down. If he tells truth, it will be a -queer thing. I shall review it for the <i>Edinburgh</i>. There is -nothing new here; the harvest has been splendid, and there is cider -enough to make the country drunk. The farmers are in better -spirits; if the Government did but know their strength and act, all -would go well, but the house is on fire in many places, and not a -bucket moved: <i>Vaya! vaya! il faut cultiver son jardin</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>Dec. 28th, 1843</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>We are all here, pursuing the same uniform vegetable existence for -which Devonians are renowned, and none the worse for the routine. -It has been somewhat varied by my bringing out <i>two</i> Daughters, -which, in point of satin slips, ball flounces, and trimmed -nightcaps, is nearly equivalent to a marriage trousseau. The bills, -combined with those of Eton, have reduced my <i>Irish</i> 5 per cents. -to almost an unknown quantity. Such is the perverse tendency of -expenditure to advance in a more rapid ratio than increase of -income. Ireland just now seems quiet; so is Vesuvius. If<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190">{190}</a></span> Dan -carries the day, I shall be shot up, or rather be shot down, light -as the <i>scoriæ</i> by which Pompeii was covered over; but I have no -fears whatever.</p> - -<p><i>Handbook</i> is about to be printed. All these civil wars in Spain -are not very attractive to the wayfaring man, who purchases in -Albemarle Street; but I dare swear that ere April the goodly -tomes—now two—will decorate Murray’s shop. The task has indeed -been severe, yet a serious pleasure, a great occupation,—somewhat -indeed too much, as the mind ought not to be kept on a perpetual -strain. I shall “<i>couper mon bâton</i>” and pen; when it is done, <i>his -artem cestumque repono</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Asi va el mundo.</i> I am lamenting over the silent and rapid flight, -and the <i>desengaño</i> of all things. It is lucky that there is no -<i>San Yuste</i> in this Protestant land, or (as one, now <i>en la gloria -esta</i>, used to say) I might be tempted to turn hermit and count my -beads. What a charming place after all Sⁿ Yuste was! and what -capital trout fishing!</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Oulton Hall</span>, <span class="smcap">Lowestoft</span>, <i>26 Jan. /44</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><i>Handbook</i> goes forthwith to press.</p> - -<p>I am here on a visit to <i>El Gitano</i>; two “rum coves,” in a queer -country. This is a regular Patmos, an <i>ultima Thule</i>; placed in an -angle of the most unvisited, out-of-the-way portion of England.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191">{191}</a></span> -His house hangs over a lonely lake covered with wild fowl, and is -girt with dark firs, through which the wind sighs sadly; however, -we defy the elements, and chat over <i>las cosas de España</i>, and he -tells me portions of his life, more strange even than his book. We -scamper by day over the country in a sort of gig, which reminds me -of Mr. Weare on his trip with Mr. Thurtell (Borrow’s old -preceptor); “Sidi Habismilk” is in the stable, and a Zamarra -[sheepskin coat] now before me, writing as I am in a sort of -summer-house called <i>La Mezquita</i>, in which <i>El Gitano</i> concocts -his lucubrations, and <i>paints</i> his pictures, for his object is to -colour up and poetise his adventures.</p></div> - -<p>Writing to Ford from Oulton Hall, February 9th, 1844, Borrow says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Almost as soon as I got back from Norwich the weather became very -disagreeable, a strange jumble of frost, fog, and wet. I am glad -that during your stay here it has been a little more favourable. I -still keep up, but not exactly the thing. You can’t think how I -miss you and our chats by the fireside. The wine, now I am alone, -has lost its flavour, and the cigars make me ill. I am very -frequently in my valley of the shadows, and had I not my summer -jaunt to look forward to, I am afraid it would be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192">{192}</a></span> all up with your -friend and <i>Batushka</i> [little father]. I still go on with my -<i>Life</i>, but slowly and lazily. What I write, however, is <i>good</i>. I -feel it is good, strange and wild as it is.</p></div> - -<p>Ford’s correspondence with Addington is resumed.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>May 23, 1844</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>As your Excellency is naturally a studier of human character, I -think you will be edified by beholding me in a new phase, that of -Church-building and drawing up reports thereanent; so I enclose you -the particulars.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Ford and myself are about to quit these bemyrtled bowers on -Monday next: we proceed to Eton, where my son and heir is to figure -in the Montem Saturnalia, in a red coat, cocked hat and sword, and -to be brought back,—oh sight painful to parents! drunk in a -wheelbarrow. There is nothing like spending £250 a year in giving -one’s boy a liberal good education. Hawtrey has bidden us to the -feastings which he gives to sundry Papas and Mamas.</p> - -<p><i>Handbook</i> is slowly printing. The <i>Mañana</i> of Spain has infected -even Albemarle Street; but we have got well to page 264 of Vol. I.</p> - -<p>The rail is now open, and Exeter is 7-1/2 hours from London. We -hope some day that you and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193">{193}</a></span> <i>mi Señora</i> (<i>c.p.b.</i>) may be tempted -to come and see us and the New Church.</p> - -<p>I have been suffering from influenza in common with almost -everybody. The bright sun and cold north-east winds remind me of -Madrid.</p></div> - -<p>But Ford was not at the end of his labours. The first edition of the -Handbook was cancelled, in deference to Addington’s advice, at a cost to -Ford of £500 and the toil of re-writing a considerable portion of the -work.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>Sept. 26, 1844.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>Visions of Joinville, Narvaez, and the Pope breaking Murray’s -presses and <i>écrase</i>-ing my head have haunted me since your letter. -Alas! alas! the Preface which you condemn is drawn very mild, and -was written purposely to <i>soften</i> more severe castigations on -events, historians, and nationalities. What is a man to do who -wishes to write the truth, when, at every step in Spain, he meets a -French ruin, and, at every page in a Spanish or French book, a -libel against us?</p> - -<p>I have told the <i>truth</i>. I wish I had not. I have, however, said -nothing more than Southey, Napier, Schepeler<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>, and the Duke. But -I am quite averse to getting into hot water or ill words, and must -reconsider the subject, and either cancel much,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194">{194}</a></span> or make -complimentary <i>amendes honorables</i> in the subsequent sheets.</p> - -<p>My spouse thinks with you, and I have such a high opinion of you as -a man of the world and of sound judgment, and know you to be so -kind, true, and good a friend, that I am now going to write to -Murray.</p></div> - -<p>At first Ford hoped that he could substitute for the objectionable -passages artistic or antiquarian information. In December 1844 he writes -to Addington that already four sheets (<i>i.e.</i> 64 pages) had been -cancelled. He adds that “we are all in a snowy surplice.” This -description of a snowstorm was suggested by the attempt of the Bishop of -Exeter to do away with the black gown, and by the excitement which the -step had created in Exeter. He refers to the subject in a letter dated -January 20th, 1845.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Heavitree</span>, <i>Jan. 26, /45</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I enclose you a very characteristic letter from Don Jorge [Borrow], -which please to return. It would be well if he could allay the evil -spirit that is broken loose here; the flocks are rising against the -shepherds, more like wolves than lambs. The thing is much more -serious, and lies deeper than many imagine; it is no <i>mob</i> affair. -The entire mass of the middling classes and rich tradesmen are the -leaders; the lower and better classes stand<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">{195}</a></span> aloof. The disquieted -are not only urged by a violent, no-popery, protestant feeling, but -by a democratic element, probably unknown to themselves, which -resists dignities and anything, even a surplice, being dictated to -them. The mob, the real [Greek: polykephalon], is quiet, having -work and cheap food. The gentry attach no importance to the black -or white vesture, nor do their clergy ever, in fact, rule them. But -with the middling, and a numerous, class, these clerical crotchets -are not shadows, but realities and dangers. The church coach will -be upset, unless great temper and management be shown (and that -will <i>not</i> be shown); the dissentients are ripe for a free church. -Philpotti has been considerably in the wrong; he would have made a -splendid Hildebrand or Loyola, but the age of railroads and steam -will smash mitres and tracts. The war of opinions which has been -now raged for ten years is coming to a crisis. I take our tradesmen -in Exeter to be types of those throughout England, and Foolometers; -and as they have acted, so will all their like. The train is laid, -and a spark may ignite it.</p></div> - -<p>Eventually Ford found that his wisest course was to withdraw the first -edition of the <i>Handbook</i>. He writes from London, where he was laid up -by somewhat serious illness, February 19th, 1845:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196">{196}</a></span> “I have quite -determined on cancelling <i>Handbook</i>, and reprinting it <i>minus</i> -political, military, and religious discussions, and to omit mention of -disagreeables, and only make it smooth and charming.” On these lines the -book was recast.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<i>April 30, 1845.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>I am leading the life of a true <i>Devoto á la Santissima Hygeia</i>. I -sleep at Exmouth, rise at six, walk on the beach, listening to the -ripple of the waves, and inhaling the morning sea-impregnated -breezes. I come home to breakfast at seven; at half-past mount my -steed, and come clipping over here, <i>ganando horas</i>, in about an -hour, nine miles, and such hills! then, while hot as a horseshoe, I -hiss under a shower-bath, and occupy the morning until two in -Handbooky and gentle exercise of the mind. At two I dine, <i>en -famille</i>, on <i>rôti</i> and a pint of Bordeaux; after dinner is -dedicated to sauntering on the terrace and listening to the gentle -discourse of Mrs. Ford, when in a sweet disposition, and at other -times to lectures, <i>à la</i> Mrs. Caudle, on gastronomic excesses and -consequent pains and penalties. At five I remount, and jog -leisurely back again through sweet, shady, and verdurous lanes. A -butter-and-egg pace favours meditation and sentiment which is akin -to the season, when Nature puts on her new livery of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197">{197}</a></span> spring, which -we can’t. Arrived at Exmouth, I again wander on the lonely shore -and watch the sunsets, which are transcendental, the heaven and the -earth all crimson; then I count the pretty stars as they come out -coyly one by one for their evening’s pleasure, <i>tomando el fresco</i>. -All this air and <i>belles pensées</i> naturally conduce to hunger and -thirst, and at eight I sit down to <i>two</i> mutton chops, <i>nada más</i>, -<i>ni menos</i>, and another pint of claret. Then I peruse the <i>Morning -Post</i> of the day, and soon the gentle, oblivious style and absence -of thought steal over my senses, and then to bed, to sleep sound -and short, and then up again: <i>asi gira la vida</i>. The most -pendulous uvula yields to such a bracing winding-up system: -<i>hominem sic erigo</i>. I will duly advise you whether Don Jorge will -meet me in London.</p></div> - -<p>The <i>Handbook</i> was published in the summer of 1845. Released from his -labour, Ford was preparing to spend a holiday abroad, when Exeter was -convulsed by a famous trial, which took place at the July assizes.</p> - -<p>In February 1845 a Brazilian schooner named the <i>Felicidade</i> was -captured in the Bight of Benin by H.M. <i>Wasp</i>. Though fitted for the -slave trade, she had no slaves on board. In charge of a prize crew she -was making for Sierra Leone, when she met the <i>Echo</i>, a brigantine full -of slaves. She captured the <i>Echo</i>, took on board some of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198">{198}</a></span> crew as -prisoners, and resumed her course. The prisoners from the <i>Echo</i> -overpowered and killed the prize crew of <i>Felicidade</i>, seized the -schooner, and made off. The <i>Felicidade</i>, however, was recaptured by -H.M. <i>Star</i>. Suspicions were aroused, and ten of the prisoners were sent -home to be tried for murder on the high seas. Mr. Baron Platt overruled -the objections that the slave trade was not piracy by Brazilian law, and -that the <i>Felicidade</i>, being wrongfully taken, was not a British ship. -The jury found seven of the men guilty, and they were sentenced to -death. An appeal was however allowed on the legal points; Platt’s -decision was reversed and the prisoners released. Ford describes the -trial to Addington in an undated letter of July 1845.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I will secure the <i>Western Times</i>. Nothing can have been so bad as -Platt, or his vulgar platitudes. The defence too, was miserable. -Manning, <i>un Burro cargado de leyes</i>, broke down, and Collier, a -young advocate, <i>proved</i> his clients’ guilt, by over-examination; -and what think you of a peroration like this—“Will you hang up -these foreigners like ropes of onions (<i>? ajos</i>) and cast them then -as carrion to the crows?” Mr. Godson, who came down special, made -sad hash or ash with the Queen’s Alphabet: “Suppose this case Hay -and B. on the ’igh seas,” etc. The facts were too clear to admit of -a doubt, and seven have been found<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199">{199}</a></span> guilty. It is a sad thing for -our peaceable, <i>unslave-dealing</i> city to be horrified with such a -wholesale execution, and they ought to be hung on the African -coast. If they are <i>not</i> hung, the exasperation of the cruising -Jacks is so great that they will <i>Pelissier</i> the next slave prize -to avenge their murdered comrades. A Frenchman on the jury did all -he could to save the prisoners from <i>la perfide Albion</i>. An -<i>attaché</i> also of the Brazilian Mission was down here, abusing the -witnesses in their vernacular until stopt. What think you of the -Spanish and Portuguese Government refusing to pay for more than one -counsel, who was chosen because a nephew of the Portuguese Consul? -Thus ten men’s lives were risked to put 5 guineas in a relation’s -pocket. <i>Vaya! un empeño!</i> Drewe was so annoyed that he retained -Manning (who understands Spanish) at his own cost.</p> - -<p>I forgot to say that these Spaniards were made a regular show of by -the magistrates, who gave orders by hundreds to see them in the -jail, until Drewe, the High Sheriff, stopt the spectacle. The -pirates thought that they <i>had</i> been tried, and came here expecting -to be hung. One was a monstrous handsome fellow, and all the ladies -are interested for him, as he realised the Corsair, while his -bronzed cheek, raven locks and flashing eyes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200">{200}</a></span> contrasted with the -pudding-headed, clotted-cream, commonfaced Devonians. Another -culprit was the facsimile of a monk of Zurbaran; the rest were a -savage South America set. Of course nothing has occupied people -here but <i>Cosas de España</i>, and your humble servant, <i>quasi</i> one of -the gang, was at a premium and a sort of lion.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201">{201}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII<br /><br /> -HEAVITREE AND LONDON<br /><br /> -(1845-1858)</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Success of the <i>Handbook</i>—<i>Gatherings from Spain</i>—Illness and -Death of his Wife—Marriage with Miss Mary Molesworth—Telbin’s -“Diorama of the Duke of Wellington’s Campaigns”—Francis Clare Ford -and the Diplomatic Service—Death of Sir William -Molesworth—Failing Health—Marriage of Clare Ford—Last Article in -the <i>Quarterly Review</i>, and Last Letter to Addington—Death at -Heavitree, August 31st, 1858.</span></p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">“<span class="smcap">Since</span> July” (Ford writes to Don Pascual Gayangos at Madrid, -November 27th, 1845) “I have been wandering with my son in Germany, -and have visited those mighty rivers, the Rhine and the Danube, and -beheld the temples and frescoes of Munich.”</p></div> - -<p>He returned to England to find that the <i>Handbook</i> was succeeding beyond -his own or his publisher’s expectations. In spite of its price, print, -and double columns, 1389 copies were sold in three months, and a second -edition was already talked<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202">{202}</a></span> of. The book had, in fact, created a -sensation. Under its unpretending title it gave a description of Spain, -past and present, which no other man living, foreigner or native, could -have produced. Men who knew the country intimately, such as Lord -Clarendon, Prescott, George Borrow, and Washington Irving, were as -enthusiastic as they were unanimous in its praise. “Surely never was -there,” wrote Prescott, “since Humboldt’s book on Mexico, such an amount -of information, historical, critical, topographical, brought together in -one view, and that in the unpretending form of a <i>Manuel du Voyageur</i>.” -Lockhart saw in the <i>Handbook</i> “the work of a most superior -workman,—master of more tools than almost anyone in these days pretends -to handle,” and he found in its pages “the combination of keen -observation and sterling sense with learning <i>à la</i> Burton and -pleasantry <i>à la</i> Montaigne.” The book, in fact, took, and still holds, -its place among the best books of travel in the English language. Few -writers even now can touch on Spanish subjects without owing or -acknowledging a deep debt to Ford. Nor was his work merely a guidebook -to a particular country; it is a guidebook to all travellers, wherever -they might be, from its infectious capacity for enjoyment and the -richness and variety of its interests.</p> - -<p>The letter to Gayangos, quoted above, was written on Ford’s way back -from Oxford, where that learned Spaniard had once hoped to obtain a -Professorship.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203">{203}</a></span></p><div class="blockquot"><p>I am but just returned from Oxford, where I spent ten days. The -minds of the young men are perplexed with <i>Puseyismo y la Santa -Iglesia Catholica y Romana</i>. That evil, and a tremendous habit of -smoking cigars, seem to be the <i>features</i> of the place, and perplex -the tutors and heads of colleges.</p></div> - -<p>Among the Addington correspondence is a letter, written November 25th, -1845, from Oxford itself:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Oxford</span>, <i>Nov. 25, /45</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I propose leaving this learned city on Monday, and am about to -spend a week in Park Street, to settle some law matters for my -mother. This is the moment which is big with fate for the -Montanches Porkers, and I am about to write to Don Juan to forward -to me my annual adventure of <i>Jamones</i>. How do you feel disposed?</p> - -<p>This Oxford is indeed changed since my time. The youths drink toast -and water and fast on Wednesdays and Fridays. They have somewhat of -a priggish, macerated look; <i>der Puseyismus</i> has spread far among -the rising generation of fellows of colleges. Pusey, the -arch-heretic, has indeed the true Jesuit look. I sang an anthem out -of his book and <i>with</i> him last Sunday, having been placed in a -stall at Christ Church between him and Gaisford of Greek fame; but -I have not yet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204">{204}</a></span> joined Rome, being still rather of the school of -the æsthetics than of the ascetics.</p></div> - -<p>Literary work was resumed. A second edition of the <i>Handbook</i> had to be -prepared. Articles were written for the <i>Quarterly Review</i> on such -varied subjects as “Spanish Architecture,” “Spanish Painting,” “The -Horse’s Foot,” “Spanish Lady’s Love.” In 1846 appeared his <i>Gatherings -from Spain</i>, consisting partly of the introductory essays to the -<i>Handbook</i>, partly of new material. The book was brought out at -lightning speed.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I am glad (he writes to Addington, December 1846) that <i>Gatherings</i> -have been deemed worthy of your perusal. The first part has indeed -been knocked off <i>currente calamo</i>, and almost without my ever -seeing the pages in revise. They were written against time, -composed, printed, and type distributed in three weeks. This is not -fair on the Author, as slips in style must inevitably occur. I have -almost written a new book as to half of it.</p></div> - -<p>The success of the book was great.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>The <i>Gatherings</i> have taken wonderfully. All the critics praise -without exception. So I have sacked £210 by two months’ work, and -not damaged my literary reputation.</p></div> - -<p>Lockhart congratulated him warmly on the achievement. “You may,” he says -(January 5th,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205">{205}</a></span> 1847), “live fifty years without turning out any more -delightful thing” than the <i>Gatherings</i>. Tho’ I had read the <i>Handbook</i> -pretty well, I found the full zest of novelty in these Essays, and such, -I think, is the nearly universal feeling. Fergusson was at Lord -Clarendon’s in Herts at Christmas. Lord Clarendon said that he had had a -Spanish party a few days before—all highly pleased. One said it would -take, to get together the knowledge of this book, four of the most -accomplished of Spaniards. ‘Ah!’ said another, ‘but where could you get -<i>one</i> that could put it all together in a form so readable?’ I forget -their names; but they were men of mark.”</p> - -<p>From 1846 onwards Mrs. Ford’s health became a cause of ever-increasing -anxiety. Changes of climate were tried without permanent benefit. For -months together Ford was separated from his library. He still wrote -articles for the <i>Quarterly Review</i>, but he attempted no larger work. -Addington had apparently urged him to write a life of the Duke of Alva. -His answer shows that he felt that a different standard of historical -writing was forming, and that he had neither the youth nor the freedom -from other duties to satisfy the new canons of criticism.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>As for Alva (he writes, December 14th, 1848), I imagine that <i>iron -Duke</i> will form a prominent figure in Prescott’s <i>Philip II.</i>, on -which he is hard at work. To write a <i>new</i> and <i>real</i> history, -State-paper offices, archives, and family documents must<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206">{206}</a></span> be -consulted all over the world. Neither eyes nor domestic businesses -permit a sufficient lucid interval. It is something for a man who -has idled away the best part of life to have put forth two red -tomes, and be acknowledged as competent. <i>Claudite jam rivos pueri, -sat prata biberunt.</i></p></div> - -<p>Mrs. Ford died January 23rd, 1849. Six months later his mother, Lady -Ford, died at the age of eighty-two (July 13th, 1849). Business crowded -upon him, so that he describes himself as “hung, drawn, and quartered by -attorneys.” Solitary, depressed in spirits, worried by executorships and -trusteeships, he wrote nothing, and went nowhere. But gradually his life -resumed its usual course, though he made London, not Heavitree, his -home. His pen was once more busy. The marriage of his two elder -daughters interested and excited him.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Great events” (he writes to Addington from 123, Park Street, -December 1850) “have taken place here. My humble dwelling has -become a perfect temple of Hymen. Cupid scatters orange blossoms -<i>plenis manibus</i>. <i>Both</i> my girls are going to be married. -Georgy,<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a>—you know,—to <i>Mowbray</i>, son of our old friend, Henry -Northcote; Minnie<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> to Edmund Tyrwhitt, next brother to Sir -Henry, and cousin</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;"> -<a name="ill_010" id="ill_010"></a> -<a href="images/ill_011_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_011_sml.jpg" width="382" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><i> -R.R.Reinagle R.A.S. Pinx <span style="margin-left: 4em;">Emery Walker Ph Sc.</span></i><br /> -</p> - -<p><i>Lady Ford</i></p> - -<p class="nind"><i>b.1767 d.1949</i></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207">{207}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">to my little Meta. So I shall be left, high and dry, to console -myself with <i>Jamones y seco</i>. Not but what a lady told me yesterday -that she heard as positive that <i>I</i> was booked also. The ardent -imaginations of the best half of creation rush at conclusions, and -underrate the difficulties of fifty-four. After this, let no man -despair. Instead of making love, I have been pursuing a more -becoming task of writing articles.”</p></div> - -<p>In the summer of 1851, Ford married Mary, only daughter of Sir Arscott -Ourry Molesworth, Bart., of Pencarrow, near Bodmin, sister of Sir -William Molesworth, who had succeeded his father as eighth Baronet in -1823, and was at this time, and to the date of his death (1845-October -1855), M.P. for Southwark. Politically Ford was little in sympathy with -his brother-in-law, who was an advanced Liberal, and for many years the -leader of the “Philosophical Radicals.” Writing to the Dowager Lady -Molesworth, August 18th, 1851, Ford says:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>The pen seems to have passed from the fingers of the late literary -Mr. Ford into those of Mrs. Ford. She is now with her nose in her -blotting-book, diligently, dutifully, and no doubt delicately -inditing to you. <i>I</i> generally leave her to the monopoly of the -inkstand, and take refuge in my paint-box, having begun a series of -Spanish views<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208">{208}</a></span> to decorate her room, in the hopes of keeping her -out of Spain by bringing the Peninsula to Park Street.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile we rub on pleasantly and much enjoy the repose of London -“out of town.” We vary existence by suburban trips of an approved -cockney and connubial character. One day we steam down to -Greenwich, champagne and whitebait; another, we float down the -beautiful Thames at Twickenham, to the disturbance of swans and -punters.</p> - -<p>You will have heard from Mary of all our sayings and doings. -Nothing could be kinder or more hospitable than Miss Molesworth<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> -was. She is a very superior and a right honest woman. We -fraternised and sisterised greatly. I suppose I have some old -hankering and a predilection for the name of “Miss Molesworth.” -Assuredly we shall repeat our visit, which our hostess so -repeatedly and really pressed.</p> - -<p>The lady of the Lodge gave me lessons in the cultivation and -concoction of flax, which she conducts with great profit, and I -hope I may do no worse when an <i>Irish</i> proprietor. I shall grow a -small plot of hemp for Cardinals and Co. By the way, what an -excellent politician Miss M. is!</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209">{209}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the spring of 1852 the most popular sight of London was Telbin’s -“Diorama of the Campaigns of Wellington.” On the battlefields -themselves, with Napier’s <i>History of the Peninsular War</i> in his hand, -Ford had traced each move in the struggle between the English and French -in Spain. He had read every book which bore upon the subject; from the -lips of men who themselves had seen or taken part in the contest, he had -gathered details unknown to the historians; and he adored the Duke as -the greatest of Englishmen. From many of the places which the war had -made famous he had brought away his own sketches, and four of the -pictures (“The Night of the Battle of Talavera,” “The Capture of Ciudad -Rodrigo,” “The Victory of Salamanca,” “The Victory of Vitoria”) were -painted from his drawings. He also contributed the descriptive -letterpress, which was printed as <i>A Guide to the Diorama of the -Campaigns of the Duke of Wellington</i> (London, 1852). His lively -descriptions of the battlefields are so vigorous that the following -extract from a rare book may be read with interest. It explains a -picture of “A Convoy intercepted by Partizans.”</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>The predatory system of Napoleon, in forcing the countries he -invaded to nourish his armies, necessarily sapped the foundations -of military discipline and good conduct. This increased the French -difficulties of subduing the Peninsula, which cannot be done with a -small army, and where a large one must starve i Polf separated -from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210">{210}</a></span> magazines. The Massenas, who trusted to gaining their ends by -impetuous advances, did not or would not attend to organised -supplies, the sinews of war. Strong only when in position, and with -no hold on the soil or hearts of the nation, their convoys, few and -far between, were always exposed to be cut off by roving bands who -waged a <i>guerilla</i>, or little war, which, congenial to their -country—broken and rugged, and to their character—warlike but not -military, was conducted with infinite perseverance, energy, skill, -daring, valour, and success. Lord Wellington, who knew by -experience the impossibility of any Spanish army, “in want of -everything at the critical moment,” carrying on a regular war, -pronounced their partizanship the real and best national power. -Unparalleled in a contest of shifts and devices, and without -discipline or drill, the <i>Guerilleros</i> waged a war to the knife; -and circumventing the invader by fair means and foul, avenged in -his heart’s blood wrongs too many ever to be forgotten, too great -ever to be forgiven. These hornets swarmed around every movement, -and displaced a force equal to 30,000 men, who were required to -patrol roads and keep communications open. The success of these -irregulars sustained the flame of Spain’s patriotism, amid the -disgrace and defeats<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211">{211}</a></span> of her regular armies. The French, who -smarted, executed them as robbers, because, forsooth, they wore no -uniform. Can a Marshal’s embroidery transform spoilers of church -and cottage into heroes, or its want degrade the honest defender of -altar and hearth into a bandit? Throughout the war, the surprises -of French convoys afforded scenes no less frequent than -picturesque. Down Alpine defiles and amid aromatic brushwood, the -long lines of laden mules, cars, and mounted escorts tracked their -tangled way, now concealed in rocks and thickets, now glittering in -the sun and giving life to the loneliness; then, in the most -perilous point of passage and behind loosened crags lurked the -partizans; every blunderbuss loaded and cocked, every finger on the -trigger, every knife unclasped, each breathlessly awaiting the -signal; nor ever was priest or monk wanting to shrive the souls, -and hold out immediate paradise to these humble crusaders, who fell -gloriously in the holy war for God, King and country. Honour -eternal to these noble sons of Spain! However wild, undisciplined -and oriental their resistance, it rises grandly, an example to the -world, now the crimes and follies of their unworthy leaders in -cabinet and camp have sunk into deserved oblivion.</p> - -<p>Just now (Ford writes to Addington, May 7th,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212">{212}</a></span> 1852) the old Tory’s -<i>Duke of Wellington’s Campaign Libretto</i> is much talked of at the -Palace. Think of the F.M. going there <i>in personâ</i>, pulling out his -shilling, and buying a book, and carrying it off.</p> - -<p>The old Duke (he adds, May 11th) has been to the Diorama, and was -much pleased, especially with Lisbon, Salamanca, Vitoria, and -Sorauren. When the squares at the concluding Waterloo began to -move, he quite fought his battles over again.</p> - -<p>The Queen is illustrating the Diorama, the guide in hand.</p></div> - -<p>Ford also notes that a large-paper copy had been bought by Lord -Malmesbury, then the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. He was -especially pleased with this purchase, because he was endeavouring to -obtain, through Addington, a nomination to the Diplomatic Service for -his only son, Francis Clare Ford. On leaving Eton, Clare Ford had -entered the 4th Light Dragoons. But military life was not to his taste: -he had sold out of the Army in June 1851, and was now studying in -France. By Addington’s advice a formal letter was written for submission -to the Foreign Secretary.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I am most anxious (wrote Ford) to start my only son in diplomacy, -to be followed up as his profession. You know the youth. He was at -Eton, has learnt the world in the course of soldiering,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213">{213}</a></span> speaks and -writes French excellently, is a clever artist, gentlemanlike and -good-looking, can keep a secret, and is aged twenty-three. -Hereafter he will have an independent fortune.</p> - -<p>I am fully aware that I have no right to apply to Lord Malmesbury -on private or public grounds; but, at least, I have always been, -and in the worst of times, a good Tory with pen and by mouth.</p></div> - -<p>Across the letter which Addington wrote recommending Clare Ford, Lord -Malmesbury scribbled in pencil: “If the son is as clever as the father, -he deserves advancement. I have put him down, and hope to name him.” In -due course the nomination came. Writing to Addington, July 10th, 1852, -Ford says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>I really hardly know how <i>to thank you enough</i>. But I do <i>feel it -greatly</i>, and hope you believe that. Nothing could be more -gentlemanlike than Lord Malmesbury. In the middle of dinner—I sat -next to him—he said: “Let’s have a glass of champagne together and -drink your son’s health, whom I have just appointed an <i>attaché</i> to -Naples.”</p></div> - -<p>Before taking up his appointment abroad, Clare Ford was summoned home, -and began work at the Foreign Office in London. “The young diplomat,” -says his father, August 13th, 1852, “works hard at the desk, and is, I -am sure, in real and right earnest, and I hope by 1882 will be G.C.B.” -The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214">{214}</a></span> hope was realised in the spirit, if not in the actual date. Sir -Clare Ford became a G.C.B. April 29th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Hopeful of his son’s career and gratified by Lord Malmesbury’s -recognition of the young man as one of his “cleverest youngsters,” easy -in his own circumstances, established in his literary reputation, -preserving much of his extraordinary capacity for enjoyment, retaining -the freshness of his varied interests, a welcome guest everywhere in -society, counting his friends by the hundred, Ford seemed to have before -him many years of happiness. His pen was not idle. He wrote frequently -in the <i>Athenæum</i> on subjects connected with art. He contributed several -articles to the <i>Quarterly Review</i>, notably that on “Apsley House” -(March 1853), in which he paid a fine tribute to the Duke of -Wellington.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> He prepared a third edition of the <i>Handbook</i>, which was -in great part rewritten. He also was again busy with bricks and mortar -at Heavitree.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>We have been (he writes to Addington, September 14th, 1854) -ruralising and rusticating ever since we fled from the thick-pent, -pestilence-stricken city. The days and weeks flit past with wings, -and fast as my ducats, for, to the raw material of ruin (farming), -I have in my dotage superadded building, and towers and domes are -rising while the bankers’ balance comes down. We are great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215">{215}</a></span> in pigs -and pears, but only so-so in potatoes, which are cruelly diseased; -all my fond hopes of getting home by these tubers are dissipated.</p> - -<p>I am pretty well, barring pocket;—early to bed and early to rise, -without, however, being wealthy or wise. <i>Handbook</i> is at a -standstill; in fact, it is impossible to dip in the inkstand, or -remain indoors, when there is so much going on out of doors, and, -as I never admit either architects or nursery gardeners, there is -plenty for the master’s head to devise and eye to superintend.</p></div> - -<p>In the autumn of 1855 Ford and his wife were hastily summoned to London -by the dangerous illness of her only brother. Sir William Molesworth had -won for himself a brilliant position in English politics. To his -advocacy had been mainly due the abolition of transportation, and his -speeches on colonial questions were marked by profound knowledge of the -subject and a statesmanlike breadth of view. In January 1853 he was -appointed First Commissioner of Works, with a seat in Lord Aberdeen’s -Cabinet. Two years later (July 1855), when he succeeded Lord John -Russell as Colonial Secretary, he had gained the legitimate object of -his ambition, and held an office for which he was acknowledged to be -peculiarly qualified. But his health, always weak, broke down under the -strain.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>His system (writes Ford to Addington, October 21st, 1855), never -very strong, has succumbed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216">{216}</a></span> a long and late session, to which -the overwork of a new office was added just at the moment when -repose and the country were most wanting. He is in a <i>very critical -state</i>; but I do not quite despair, and I hope to-morrow to be able -to report progress.</p> - -<p>I have no heart now to enter on those matters which would have -filled my pages. Oh the vanity of vanities! Look at poor Sir -William, a young man, stretched on his bed and wrestling with death -with the heart of a lion, and this just at the moment when all his -honours were budding thick and the object of a life’s honourable -ambition gained.</p></div> - -<p>Sir William Molesworth died October 22nd, 1855. Ford’s own health was -now rapidly breaking down. His eyesight began to fail. He slept badly. -The fatal malady which ultimately caused his death—Bright’s -disease—was already developed in his system, and affected his nervous -condition. His letters lost their gaiety. A visit to Paris in September -1856, where his son was now an <i>attaché</i>, did not revive his spirits. -Writing to Addington, he says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>One line from the most palatial Paris, the capital and centre of -general civilisation, where gold and gastric juice and the -insolence of health and intellect seem to be the things wanting, -and where the lust of the eye is indeed gratified. To those<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217">{217}</a></span> who -have not seen it for many years, the transformations are magical, -and the slaves of the lamp are at work day and night. -<i>Diruit—edificat</i> is the imperial mandate.</p> - -<p>We, I fear, must mark No. 2 in many things, not only in political -matters. Our <i>prestige</i> has sadly fallen on the Continent, and the -French, who claim all the glory of the Crimea, almost fancy we -exist at their sufferance, and that by saving us at Inkerman, etc., -they have wiped out Waterloo. Not a few call the English medal -which figures on the breast of many a Zouave <i>La Medaille de -sauvetage</i>, and compare it to that given by the Humane Society to -those who have rescued others from death and danger.</p> - -<p>My son is alive and busy. He has now an idea of what <i>work</i> is, and -this mission at Paris is of a very different stamp from <i>Otiosa -Neapolis</i>. However, work is good for the young. The time will -arrive, and how rapidly! when we must all say <i>tempus abire</i>, and -happy those who are <i>en règle</i>, and are blessed besides, like you, -with a strong and philosophic mind,—both of which are wanting to -me, who would gladly prefer them to gold and gastric juice.</p></div> - -<p>In December 1856 Ford accepted the appointment to serve, with Lord -Broughton, the Dean of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218">{218}</a></span> St. Paul’s, Michael Faraday, George Richmond, -and Charles Robert Cockerel, on a Royal Commission “to determine the -site of the National Gallery, and to report on the desirableness of -combining with it the Fine Art and Archæological Collection of the -British Museum.” But eight days after the announcement had appeared in -the <i>London Gazette</i> (December 15th, 1856), he was obliged to withdraw -his consent to act, as he found that his health incapacitated him from -discharging the duties of the commission. The newspapers of the day bore -witness to the regret that was felt at his inability to serve. “We -expressed a fortnight ago,” says the <i>Illustrated London News</i> for -January 3rd, 1857, “the general satisfaction that was felt in Mr. Ford’s -appointment. His place is not easily to be supplied. His practical good -sense, and the general esteem in which he is held, peculiarly fitted him -for the appointment.”</p> - -<p>Ill though Ford was, he was able to enjoy the promise of his son’s -success in the diplomatic service. Promoted to be a paid <i>attaché</i> in -March 1857, Clare Ford passed an examination which, as his father -proudly reports to Addington, was “the most brilliant ever passed in -international law.” In the summer of the same year (June 22nd, 1857) he -married Annie, second daughter of the Marquis Garofalo, the head of a -family distinguished in the history of Naples. Ford was at his son’s -wedding; but after that date he went less and less into society. His -last article in the <i>Quarterly Review</i>, “Rugby Reminiscences,” which -appeared in October 1857, was a review of <i>Tom Brown’s Schooldays</i>. For -him</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 352px;"> -<a name="ill_011" id="ill_011"></a> -<a href="images/ill_012_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_012_sml.jpg" width="352" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> - -<p><i> -Velasquez Pinx. <span style="margin-left: 4em;">Emery Walker Ph. Sc.</span></i><br /> -</p> - -<p><i>Dona Margarita Mariana of Austria<br /> wife of Philip IV. of Spain.</i></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219">{219}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the subject had two special attractions. Arnold was an old schoolfellow -at Winchester, and ‘Tom’ Hughes had married Ford’s niece, the daughter -of his brother James. It is interesting to learn that Arnold had not -impressed his contemporaries at school with any “great promise of future -excellence,” though his “love for history rather than for poetry, and -for truth and facts in preference to fiction,” was already conspicuous. -But Ford traces Arnold’s encouragement of games and attention to the -supply of proper food at Rugby, to his own experience of “the cheerless -condition of Commoners,” and “the ‘Do-the-boys’ dietary” which had -prevailed at Winchester.</p> - -<p>Ford’s last letter to Addington, dated December 20th, 1857, is written -from 123, Park Street:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Dear Addington</span>,<br /> -</p> - -<p>Many thanks for your old-friendlike and most <i>seasonable</i> letter, -and, indeed, I most sincerely reciprocate in wishing you and your -dear wife every possible happiness, and in these wishes Mrs. Ford -most entirely joins. May the season be pleasant to you both, nay, -even “merry.” May you both enjoy that good old epithet associated -to the auspicious moment, to which your sound health and right -cheery mind so fairly entitle you.</p> - -<p>We dined last night with the Marshalls, and the turkey was indeed -most orthodox and succulent. Spring Rice dined there with <i>Bessy</i>, -and my son<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220">{220}</a></span> Clare with his <i>Bene</i>. They are preparing for Lisbon, -and will start in about a fortnight. <i>Bon voyage!</i></p> - -<p>The Indian news is well-timed. The worst is now past, and the -difficult task of reconstruction has begun. Your friend, Lord -Canning, seems to have done right well. Things seem to be -<i>bettering</i> in the City; but I fear that there will be much -distress among our industrious operatives. The next three months -will be a terrible trial for the poor.</p> - -<p>God bless you, dear Addington!</p> - -<p class="r"> -Ever yours most truly, <br /> -<span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<p>During the next few months the two old friends met frequently; but in -July 1858 Ford’s health had become so precarious that his son was -summoned home from Lisbon, where he now was an <i>attaché</i>. Richard Ford -died at Heavitree, August 31st, 1858.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221">{221}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#X">X</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a></p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Abadia, General, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> - -Abadía, Palace at, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Aberdeen, Lord, <a href="#page_82">82</a><br /> - -Absolutists, the, <a href="#page_5">5</a><br /> - -Abu Abdullah, 5<a href="#page_9">9ⁿ</a><br /> - -Addington, Henry Unwin—Plenipotentiary at Madrid (1829-33), <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leaves Madrid, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his pension, <a href="#page_135">135</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his criticism of Ford, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, 1<a href="#page_41">41-4</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his advice as to Clare Ford’s future, <a href="#page_212">212</a></span><br /> - -<i>Advertising</i>, Hayward’s article on, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Agriculture in Morocco, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Agustina, “La Artillera,” the Maid of Zaragoça, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Airecillo, the, at the Alhambra, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a><br /> - -Alagon, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Alameda Vieja, the, at Seville, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Albaicin, the, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -Albemarle Street, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -Alcantara, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Alcaravan (bittern), <a href="#page_69">69</a><br /> - -Alcazar, the, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Alcolea, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Alexander VI., Pope, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Alforjas (saddle bags), <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> - -las Alfujarras, jamon de, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -Algeciras, Torrijos lands at, <a href="#page_19">19</a>; <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a><br /> - -Algiers, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Albania, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Alhambra, the, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_34">34</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_59">59ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -Alicante, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Allan, Sir William, R.A., <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -“Ally Croaker,” <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Althorp, Lord, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Alva, the Duke of, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">life of, <a href="#page_205">205</a></span><br /> - -Alva, Duke of, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -las Amarillas, Marques de, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the first man in Spain, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a></span><br /> - -Andalusia, rising in, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -los Andes, Conde de, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a><br /> - -Andujar, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br /> - -Antequera, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Apsley House, article on, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -Aqueduct at Merida, <a href="#page_32">32</a><br /> - -Aranjuez, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222">{222}</a></span>Arapiles, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br /> - -Architecture, Spanish, article on, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Argamasilla de Alba, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Arjona, the Assistente, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Armament, the, for Portuguese expedition, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br /> - -Armeria, the, <a href="#page_70">70</a><br /> - -Arnold, Dr. Thomas, <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Arrests for sketching, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Ass, the, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Asses’ milk, <a href="#page_71">71</a><br /> - -<i>Athenæum</i>, the, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -Athenæum, the, at Exeter, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -<i>Ay de mi, Alhama</i>, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Azulejos, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Babylon, walls of, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Bacalao (dried fish), <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Badajoz, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">artillery ordered to, <a href="#page_80">80</a>; <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a></span><br /> - -Bara, <a href="#page_46">46</a><br /> - -Barbate, the, <a href="#page_20">20</a><br /> - -Barbary, travelling in, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Barcelona, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#page_61">61</a>; <a href="#page_110">110</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Llauder expelled from, <a href="#page_136">136</a></span><br /> - -Baring, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -Barings, the Miss, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Barranco de San Juan, the, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Bassetlaw job, the, <a href="#page_53">53</a><br /> - -Batushka (Borrow), <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -Baylen, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> - -Benalua, <a href="#page_66">66</a><br /> - -Benavente, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -“Bene” (Mrs. Clare Ford), <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -Benin, Bight of, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Berja, lead mines at, <a href="#page_37">37</a><br /> - -Bermudez, Cea (or Zea), <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -de Berry, la Duchesse, <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a><br /> - -“Bessy,” <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Best, Mr., <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -<i>Bible in Spain</i>, the, quoted, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>; <a href="#page_180">180-4</a><br /> - -Bigge, Captain, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a><br /> - -Bilbao, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Boabdila, <a href="#page_59">59ⁿ</a><br /> - -Boars, wild, <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Bodleian Library, the, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Bodmin, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Borgia, Cæsar, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Borrow, George, on Quesada, <a href="#page_20">20</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Zincali</i>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Bible in Spain</i>, <a href="#page_180">180-4</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his Greek servant, <a href="#page_180">180</a>; <a href="#page_185">185</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his biography, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Oulton Hall, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>; <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a></span><br /> - -Bory de Saint Vincent, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> - -Botiga, the, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a><br /> - -Bowring, Dr., <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Boyd, Robert, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Brackenbury, Sir John, Consul at Cadiz, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Brasero, the, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Brazilian Slave Trade, the, <a href="#page_198">198</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -<i>British and Foreign Review</i>, the, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> - -“Brook, Master,” <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> - -Brougham, Lord, <a href="#page_17">17ⁿ</a><br /> - -Broughton, Lord, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -la Bruyère, quoted, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Bull fights, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in honour of Princess Isabella, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ford’s article on, <a href="#page_122">122ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a></span><br /> - -Buller, Colonel, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Bulteel, Mr., <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Bunyan, John, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223">{223}</a></span>Burdett, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Burgos, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Burra, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Burton, Professor Edward, his <i>Antiquities of Rome</i> (1821), <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Burton, Robert (author of the <i>Anatomy of Melancholy</i>), <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -Bustard, the, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a><br /> - -Byron, Ada (Lady Lovelace), <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Byron, Lord, <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_117">117ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>The Corsair</i>, <a href="#page_199">199</a></span><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Cadiz, the Cortes at, in 1812, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">free trading at, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">riots at, in 1831, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assassination of governor, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the <i>Malabar</i> at, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cholera at, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> - -Cain, the originator of cob walls, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -<i>Ça ira</i> of the Spanish Revolution, the, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Cajeput oil, <a href="#page_62">62</a><br /> - -Caldero, <a href="#page_31">31</a><br /> - -Calle de Alcala, in Madrid, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Calle de Genoa, at Seville, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Calle de los Monsalvos, at Seville, <a href="#page_68">68</a><br /> - -Calomarde, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a><br /> - -Campillo de la Arena, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a><br /> - -<i>Candide</i>, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Canning, Lord, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -Canning, Lady Stratford, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Canning system, the, <a href="#page_25">25</a><br /> - -Capara, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Cardenas, the Venta de, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Cardenio, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Cardinals & Co., <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Cardona, the salt mines at, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -Carlos, Don, <a href="#page_4">4</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">retires to Portugal, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>; <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his wife, <a href="#page_97">97</a>; <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a></span><br /> - -“Carlos, Don:” <i>see</i> Downie<br /> - -Carlota, Princess, of Naples, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Carmen Convent, the, at Malaga, <a href="#page_73">73</a><br /> - -Carnarvon, Lord, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> - -Cartuja Convent, the, near Burgos, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Casa de los Expositos, the, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Casa Sanchez, the, in the Alhambra, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Cassiobury, <a href="#page_43">43</a><br /> - -Castlereagh, Lord, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -Cavallero, Juan, <a href="#page_76">76</a><br /> - -Ceca, La, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Cemetery at Malaga, the, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a><br /> - -Charles IV., and the Salic Law, <a href="#page_96">96</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his wife, <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a></span><br /> - -Charles V. at the Alhambra, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at San Yuste, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">founder of the Maestranza, <a href="#page_103">103ⁿ</a></span><br /> - -Charlotte, Princess, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Château Margaux, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Cheffhttinschkwi, <a href="#page_70">70</a><br /> - -Cherbourg, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Chico, el Rey, <a href="#page_59">59ⁿ</a><br /> - -Cholera, the, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Lisbon, <a href="#page_116">116</a>; <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">precautions against, <a href="#page_129">129-32</a></span><br /> - -Chorizo (sausage), <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -Chorlito (curlew), <a href="#page_69">69</a><br /> - -Christina, Queen, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_5">5</a>;<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224">{224}</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">degrades Moreno, <a href="#page_73">73</a>; <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_136">136ⁿ</a></span><br /> - -Ciudad Rodrigo, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capture of, Ford’s picture, <a href="#page_209">209</a></span><br /> - -Clarendon, Lord, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and <i>see</i> George Villiers</span><br /> - -Cob walls, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -Coche de colleras, the, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Cockerel, Charles Robert, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Colburn, Mr., <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Collier, Mr., <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Compostella, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Conder, Josiah, his “Italy” (1831), <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -“Constantine the Great” (Lord Normanby), <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Constitution, the, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rejected by Ferdinand VII., <a href="#page_4">4</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Pedro IV., <a href="#page_74">74</a></span><br /> - -Constitutionalists, return of the, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Consuls, English, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Cook, Samuel Edward (afterwards Widdrington), <a href="#page_31">31ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_38">38ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a><br /> - -Cordova, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Coria, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Corpus, el Dia de, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> - -Corral de Conde, at Seville, <a href="#page_12">12</a><br /> - -Cortijo del Puche, the, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Coto del Rey, the, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Couskousu, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Cowper, Lady, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Cranstoun, Lord, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Cranstoun, the Hon. Eliza (second wife of Richard Ford), <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Crawford, Oswald John Frederick, <a href="#page_186">186ⁿ</a><br /> - -Cuarto, the, <a href="#page_100">100ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -de Custine, Marquis (Author of <i>L’Espagne sous Ferdinand VII.</i>), <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>Danube, the, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -Dart, the, <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> - -Daubeny, Professor, <a href="#page_31">31ⁿ</a><br /> - -Dennis, G., his <i>Summer in Andalusia</i>, <a href="#page_28">28ⁿ</a><br /> - -Despeña-perros, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -<i>Diario</i>, the, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Dickens, Charles, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Diligences in Spain, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stopped on account of cholera, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a></span><br /> - -“Dionysia” (Mrs. O’Lawlor), <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> - -Dionysio, bookseller at Seville, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Diorama of the Campaigns of the Duke of Wellington, Guide to the, <a href="#page_209">209-12</a><br /> - -Dog-days, at the Alhambra, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Dolorosita, (niece of Francisca de Molina), <a href="#page_72">72</a><br /> - -Domestic appliances, at Seville, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a><br /> - -Don, General Sir George, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a><br /> - -Downie (“Don Carlos”), the commandante at Jaen, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a><br /> - -Dress, in Spain, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_7">7</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Morocco, <a href="#page_118">118</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at state funerals, <a href="#page_134">134</a></span><br /> - -Drewe, Mr., High Sheriff of Devon, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Drummond-Hay, Edward William Auriol, H.B.M. Consul at Tangier, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> - -Dudley, Lord, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a><br /> - -Dulcinea, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Ebrington, Lord, <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -<i>Echo</i>, the, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225">{225}</a></span>Ecija, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Eden, Sir William, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -<i>Edinburgh Review</i>, the, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_214">214ⁿ</a><br /> - -El Bravo (Sancho IV.), <a href="#page_84">84</a><br /> - -El Bueno (Guzman), <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -El Feroz (Heaphy), <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -El Galib (Mohammed I.), <a href="#page_59">59</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Mark), <a href="#page_114">114</a></span><br /> - -El Gitano (Borrow), <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -El Majadero (gawk), <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -El Pilar, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -El Rey Chico, <a href="#page_59">59ⁿ</a><br /> - -<i>El Santo Rostro</i>, <a href="#page_66">66ⁿ</a><br /> - -El Toboso, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Elche, the city of palms, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Election, parliamentary, for South Devon, <a href="#page_148">148</a> <i>seq.</i><br /> - -Ephesus of Mariolatry, the (Zaragoça), <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Escribano, the, at Manzanares, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -Escurial, the, <a href="#page_53">53</a><br /> - -de España, the Conde, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">replaced by Llauder, <a href="#page_136">136ⁿ</a></span><br /> - -Essex, Lord, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Estcourt, T. G. Bucknall, M.P., <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Estcourt, Eleanor Anne (Mrs. Addington), <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Estefa, José Maria retires to, <a href="#page_99">99</a><br /> - -Estremadura, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Eton, school bills at, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Montem, <a href="#page_192">192</a>; <a href="#page_212">212</a></span><br /> - -Exeter, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its library, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>; <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">old furniture from, <a href="#page_146">146</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railway to, <a href="#page_192">192</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">July (1846) assizes at, <a href="#page_197">197</a></span><br /> - -Exmouth, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a>Falmouth, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Faraday, Michael, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Faure, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> - -<i>Felicidade</i>, the, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Ferdinand VII., <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_4">4</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his restoration, <a href="#page_4">4</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his marriage, <a href="#page_4">4</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his character, <a href="#page_5">5</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his health, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his children, <a href="#page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">restores the Salic law, <a href="#page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">winters at Seville, <a href="#page_103">103</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his letter to the Captains General, <a href="#page_114">114</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his patronage of art, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his death and funeral, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a></span><br /> - -<i>Ferdinand and Isabella</i> (Prescott’s), reviewed by Ford, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -Ferdinand the Catholic, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Fergusson, <a href="#page_205">205</a><br /> - -Fez, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Flax, cultivation of, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Flegras, General, <a href="#page_87">87</a><br /> - -Florida Blanca, court of, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> - -Foote, Samuel, <a href="#page_39">39ⁿ</a><br /> - -Ford, Frances (wife of Thomas Hughes), <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Ford, Francis Clare, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his examination in international law, <a href="#page_218">218</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his marriage, <a href="#page_218">218</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">G.C.B., <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Naples (1852), <a href="#page_213">213</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Paris (1856), <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Lisbon (1857), <a href="#page_220">220</a></span><br /> - -Ford, Georgina (wife of Mowbray Northcote), <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -Ford, James, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>.<br /> - -Ford, Mary Jane (wife of Edmund Tyrwhitt), <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226">{226}</a></span>Ford, Meta (wife of O. J. F. Crawford), <a href="#page_186">186ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Ford, Richard, as a sportsman, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birth of a son, <a href="#page_25">25</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his son’s death, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birth of a daughter, <a href="#page_104">104</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his return to England, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Park Street, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Southernhay, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his pocketbooks, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of his son, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his second marriage, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his daughters, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">their marriages, <a href="#page_206">206</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his church building, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his third marriage, <a href="#page_207">207</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bright’s disease, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">visits his son in Paris, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Commissioner on the site of the National Gallery, <a href="#page_218">218</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his death, <a href="#page_220">220</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and <i>see</i> Reviews</span><br /> - -Ford, Lady, her death, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -Ford, Mrs. (the first), her Pajez guitar, <a href="#page_53">53</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her health, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her riding habit, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her silver box, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her death, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></span><br /> - -Ford, Mrs. (the second), <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her health, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her death, <a href="#page_206">206</a></span><br /> - -Ford, Mrs. (the third), <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Fords, the five Miss, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Fowling-pieces, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Francisco de Paula, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_103">103ⁿ</a><br /> - -Frias, Duke of, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> - -Fulford, Mr. Baldwin, jun., <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -<br /> -“<a name="G" id="G"></a>Gaffer George,” <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Gaisford, Dr., <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -Galignani’s newspaper, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> - -Game, at Seville, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Garofalo, Marquis, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Garofalo, Annie (wife of Clare Ford), <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Gaspacho (soup), <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -<i>Gatherings from Spain</i>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Gayangos, Don Pascual, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -<i>Gazette de France</i>, the, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Generalife, the, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -George III., <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -George IV., <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Germany, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -Geronimo, church of, in Madrid, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> - -de Gersdorf, Mr., <a href="#page_43">43</a><br /> - -Gibraltar, <a href="#page_9">9</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Torrijos at, <a href="#page_19">19</a>; <a href="#page_23">23</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers kidnapped at, <a href="#page_75">75</a>; <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> - -Gil Blas, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -<i>Gipsies in Spain</i>, the (Borrow), <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_183">183ⁿ</a><br /> - -Giralda, the, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -Giron, General, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> Marques de las Amarillas</span><br /> - -Godoy, <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a><br /> - -Godson, Mr., <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Gorro, the, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Granada, the Duke of Wellington on, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate, etc., <a href="#page_34">34</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a>; <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> - -Grant, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Grazalema, <a href="#page_86">86</a><br /> - -Greenwich, whitebait at, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -<i>Greville Memoirs</i>, the, <a href="#page_17">17ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_101">101ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> - -Grey, Lord, his ministry, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -Griffiths’, at Gibraltar, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227">{227}</a></span>Grimaldi, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> - -Guadairo, the, <a href="#page_85">85</a><br /> - -Guadalete, the, <a href="#page_85">85</a><br /> - -Guadalquivir, the, <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Guarroman, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Guerilleros, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a><br /> - -Guisado de Perdices, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> - -Gurwood, Lt.-Col., his <i>Wellington Dispatches</i>, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Gutierez, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -de Guzman, Alonzo Perez (El Bueno), <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Guzman, Don Rafael, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Haliburton, Thomas Chandler, author of <i>Sam Slick</i>, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -<i>Handbook for Travellers in Spain</i>, the (1845), <a href="#page_66">66ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_173">173-9</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first edition cancelled, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(1846), <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">second edition (1847), <a href="#page_204">204</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">third edition (1855), <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_215">215</a></span><br /> - -Hats, in Granada, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a><br /> - -Havre, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Hawtrey, of Eton, <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -Hay: <i>see</i> Drummond Hay<br /> - -Hayward, Abraham, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Head, Sir Edmund, <a href="#page_128">128</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his book reviewed by Ford, <a href="#page_128">128</a>; <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a></span><br /> - -Heaphy, Captain, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Heavitree, <a href="#page_146">146</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Elizabethan apartment at, <a href="#page_154">154</a>,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">finished and furnished, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the garden-house at, <a href="#page_173">173</a></span><br /> - -Heraldry, Spanish, article on, <a href="#page_163">163</a><br /> - -<i>Hermes</i>, the, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Hierro, Oliver y, Governor of Cadiz, <a href="#page_20">20</a><br /> - -Hildebrand, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Himno del Riego, el, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -<i>Historical Inquiry into the unchangeable character of a war in Spain</i>, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Holbein, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Holland, Lady, her sheets, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Holy War, the, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -Holy Week, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Hoppner, Mr. R. B., <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Horner, Mr., <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> - -Horse’s Foot, the, article on, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Houston, Sir William, Governor of Gibraltar, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a><br /> - -Howell, James, his <i>Epistolæ Ho-elianæ</i>, <a href="#page_138">138ⁿ</a><br /> - -Huelva, cholera at, <a href="#page_127">127</a>; <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -la Huerta, composer of the Hymn of Riego, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Hughes, Thomas, <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Humboldt, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -Hurdes: <i>see</i> Jurdes<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="I" id="I"></a>Ibrahim Pacha, defeats the Turks at Konieh, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Igualada, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -<i>Illustrated London News</i>, the, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Income tax, the, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> - -India, after the mutiny, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -Infantado, Duke of, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> - -Influenza, the, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Inglis, H. D., his <i>Spain in 1830</i>, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Inkerman, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -Inquisition, the, restored by Ferdinand VII., <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -International Law, Clare Ford’s examination in, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Irish Church Question, the, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228">{228}</a></span>Irun, <a href="#page_6">6</a><br /> - -Irving, Washington, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -Isabella, Queen, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Isabella, Princess, birth of, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">proclaimed queen, <a href="#page_5">5</a>; <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">recognized as heiress to the throne, <a href="#page_121">121</a>; <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a></span><br /> - -Isla de Leon, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -<br /> -“Jaca cordovese,” <a href="#page_8">8</a><br /> - -Jaen, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cholera at, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> - -“Jamon de las Alfujarras,” <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -Jamones, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Jermyn Street, Ford’s house in, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Jersey, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Jersey, Lady, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -Jewelry, of the Moors, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> - -Jews, the, in Morocco, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> - -Joanes (or Juanes), Vicente, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a><br /> - -Joinville, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Jones, Owen, his <i>Plans, etc., of the Alhambra</i> (1842), <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -“Jorge, Don” (Borrow), <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -“José, Don,” <i>see</i> O’Lawlor<br /> - -José Maria, <i>see</i> Maria<br /> - -“Juan, Don,” <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -Junta de Sanidad, the, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Jurdes, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -<br /> -“King John’s Tavern,” Exeter, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -King, Lord, his marriage, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Konieh, defeat of the Turks at, <a href="#page_115">115ⁿ</a><br /> - -Kutayah, Treaty of, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -<br /> -de <a name="L" id="L"></a>Laborde, Alexandre, <a href="#page_143">143ⁿ</a><br /> - -Ladrones, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a><br /> - -Lady’s Love, Spanish, article on, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -La Granja, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -La Granja, Marquis de, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a><br /> - -Lambert, Abbot of S. Rufus, quoted by Ford as St. Ambrose, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Landseer, Sir Edwin, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Lannes, Marshall, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Larpent’s <i>Journal</i>, reviewed by Ford, <a href="#page_214">214ⁿ</a><br /> - -Las Batuecas, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Leon, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Leslie, Charles, R.A., <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Lewis, Mr. J. F., <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> - -Lewis, Mr. F. C., <a href="#page_95">95ⁿ</a><br /> - -Lienzo work, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -Lillifant, Mr., <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Lisbon, <a href="#page_79">79</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the <i>Hermes</i> at, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the cholera at, <a href="#page_116">116</a>; <a href="#page_212">212</a></span><br /> - -Llauder, General Manuel, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Locke, John, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> - -Lockhart, John Gibson, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his “Ballads,” 167 <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on the <i>Handbook</i>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on the <i>Gatherings</i>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a></span><br /> - -Loja, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -<i>London Gazette</i>, the, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Lorano, Don Pablo, his <i>Antiquedades arabes</i>, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Los Humeros, <a href="#page_12">12</a><br /> - -Louis Philippe, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -Lovelace, Earl of: <i>see</i> Lord King<br /> - -Lowestoft, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -Lowndes Street, Ford’s house in, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Loyola, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229">{229}</a></span>Lugo, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Lyndhurst, Lady, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -Lyndhurst, Lord, <a href="#page_17">17ⁿ</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>Macadam, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> - -la Macarena, <a href="#page_12">12</a><br /> - -Macaroni, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> - -Macaulay, Thomas Babington, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Macklin, Miss, <a href="#page_39">39ⁿ</a><br /> - -Madeira, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Madrid, riots at, suppressed by Quesada, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>; <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">exchange at, <a href="#page_113">113</a>; <a href="#page_193">193</a></span><br /> - -Maestranza, the, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -Magazines, penny, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Mairena, fair at, <a href="#page_12">12</a><br /> - -Major, the, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> - -Majoral, the, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Majos, the, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -<i>Malabar</i>, the, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Malaga, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Torrijos lands at, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Carmen Convent at, <a href="#page_73">73</a>; <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> - -Malle de Poste, the, <a href="#page_94">94</a><br /> - -Mallorca, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Malmesbury, Lord, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -Mamhead, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> - -la Mancha, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Manning, Mr., <a href="#page_198">198</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Manresa, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -Manzanares (the rebel), <a href="#page_20">20</a><br /> - -Manzanares, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Maratti, Carlo, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br /> - -Maria da Gloria, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_101">101ⁿ</a><br /> - -Maria Francisca, of Braganza, <a href="#page_97">97</a><br /> - -Maria, José, Bandit of Andalusia, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his retirement, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a></span><br /> - -Maria Luisa, wife of Charles IV., <a href="#page_99">99ⁿ</a><br /> - -Mark, Mr., Consul at Malaga, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Marryat, Captain Frederick, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -Marseillaise of Spain, the, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Marshalls, the, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Martin, Captain, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -Massenas, the, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> - -<i>Matilda</i>, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Meara: <i>see</i> O’Meara<br /> - -Medina Celi, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Medina Sidonia, <a href="#page_85">85</a><br /> - -Mehemet Ali, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Melbourne, Lord, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Mengibar, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Merida, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -<i>Merry Wives of Windsor, The</i>, <a href="#page_40">40ⁿ</a><br /> - -Mexico, Humboldt’s book on, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -“la Mezquita,” at Oulton Hall, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -Miguel, Dom, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his fleet destroyed, <a href="#page_101">101</a>; <a href="#page_103">103</a></span><br /> - -Miguelites: <i>see</i> Miquelites<br /> - -Milan, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Milman, Dean, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Mina, General, <a href="#page_136">136ⁿ</a><br /> - -Minaño, Diccionario de España, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -Miquelites, or Miqueletes, the, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Mohammed I. (Ibn-al-Ahmar), <a href="#page_59">59ⁿ</a><br /> - -Molesworth, Sir Arscott Ourry, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Molesworth, Miss Caroline, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230">{230}</a></span>Molesworth, Miss Mary (third wife of Richard Ford), <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Molesworth, Sir William, M.P., <a href="#page_207">207</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in the Cabinet, <a href="#page_215">215</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colonial Secretary, <a href="#page_215">215</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his last illness, <a href="#page_215">215</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his death, <a href="#page_216">216</a></span><br /> - -Molesworth, Dowager Lady, the <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -de Molina, Francisca (“Tia Antonia”), and the Alhambra, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Monet, Don Juan Antonio, of Algeciras, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a><br /> - -Monserrat, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -Montaigne, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -Montanches Porkers, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -Moreno, Vicente Gonsalez, Captain-General of Malaga, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Granada, <a href="#page_73">73</a>; <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a></span><br /> - -Morgan, Lady, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -de Mornay, Charles, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -<i>Morning Post</i>, the, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Muchacha, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Munich, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -Murcia, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -Muriel, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Murillo, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Murray, John, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Memoir of John Murray, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>; <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his death, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a></span><br /> - -Murviedro, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a><br /> - -Musée Standish, the, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Nagle, Jane Francis (Mrs. James Ford), <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a><br /> - -Napier, Admiral Sir Charles, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Napier, Sir W. F. P., his <i>Peninsular War</i>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -Napier, Macvey, Editor of the <i>Edinburgh Review</i>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Napoleon, his system of supplies, <a href="#page_209">209</a> <i>seq.</i><br /> - -Narvaez, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -National Gallery, the, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Nicholas I., <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Nightingales in the Alhambra, <a href="#page_48">48</a><br /> - -“No-popery” disturbances in Devonshire, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Northcote, Mowbray, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -Northcote, Stafford, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -Norwich, Borrow at, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Ocaña, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -O’Connell, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -O’Donnel, General, <a href="#page_81">81</a><br /> - -O’Lawlor, General, agent for the Duke of Wellington (Don José), <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his tailor, <a href="#page_123">123</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birth of a daughter, <a href="#page_126">126</a>; <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> - -<i>Oliver Twist</i>, reviewed by Ford, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Olive wood, for burning, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -O’Meara, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br /> - -O’Neil, General, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Oporto, occupied by Pedro IV., <a href="#page_74">74</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the <i>Hermes</i> at, <a href="#page_116">116</a></span><br /> - -Ormerod, Miss, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Orvieto, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Ossuna, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Ottley, Sir Richard, <a href="#page_171">171</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his daughter, <a href="#page_171">171</a></span><br /> - -Oulton Hall, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231">{231}</a></span>Oviedo, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Oxford, Ford at, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -Oxholm, Colonel, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Painting, Spanish, Ford’s article on, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Pajez, Juan, his guitars, <a href="#page_53">53ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Palmerston, Lord, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -Palms, the city of: <i>see</i> Elche<br /> - -Palo santo (wood), <a href="#page_53">53ⁿ</a><br /> - -Paris, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -Parker, Mr., M.P. for South Devon, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> - -Partizans, convoy intercepted by, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -Partridges, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> - -Pascoe, Captain, <a href="#page_44">44</a><br /> - -Pasqual, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -Passports for Mr. F. J. Lewis, <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and cholera, <a href="#page_130">130</a></span><br /> - -Patio de los Leones, the, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> - -Pavito, roast, <a href="#page_47">47</a><br /> - -Pearson, Mr., his watch, <a href="#page_50">50</a><br /> - -Pedro IV., <a href="#page_5">5</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resigns the throne of Brazil, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">occupies Oporto, <a href="#page_74">74</a>; <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a></span><br /> - -Pedroza, Ramon, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br /> - -Peel, Sir Robert, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -Pelissier, Marshal, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Pencarrow, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -<i>Penny Cyclopædia</i>, the, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Percy, Captain, of the <i>Malabar</i>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Perry, James, of the <i>Morning Chronicle</i>, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Philip II., <a href="#page_122">122</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prescott’s <i>Philip II.</i>, <a href="#page_205">205</a></span><br /> - -Philip V., <a href="#page_96">96</a><br /> - -“Philosophical Radicals, the,” <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Philpotts, Dr. Henry, Bishop of Exeter, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Phipps, Constantine Henry, first Marquis of Normanby, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Phœnicians, the, introducers of cob walls, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Picacho de la Veleta, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Pidcock’s lions, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -Pilar: <i>see</i> El Pilar<br /> - -Pincian, pines from the, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Pindar, of Seville, <a href="#page_43">43</a><br /> - -de Pineda, Maria, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Pirates, execution of, at Exeter, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Placencia, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Plato, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> - -Platt, Mr. Baron, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Plaza de Alcala, the, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -Plaza de la Carne, the, at Seville, aqueduct at, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Plaza de la Constitution, the, <a href="#page_3">3</a><br /> - -Plaza del Duque, the, at Seville, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Plaza Mayor, the, at Madrid, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> - -Plazuela San Isidoro, the, at Seville, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br /> - -Poland, revolution in, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -<i>Policy of England towards Spain</i> (pamphlet), <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -Polpette, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Pompeii, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -Porchester, Lord, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Porrit’s <i>Unreformed House of Commons</i>, <a href="#page_53">53ⁿ</a><br /> - -Portland mutton, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -Portugal, civil war in, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">armament against, <a href="#page_78">78</a>; <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a></span><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232">{232}</a></span>Prado, the, at Madrid, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -de Prats, Miquel, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -Prescott, W. H., his <i>Ferdinand and Isabella</i> reviewed by Ford, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his <i>Philip II.</i>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on the <i>Handbook</i>, <a href="#page_202">202</a></span><br /> - -Presidarios, the, <a href="#page_72">72</a><br /> - -Protestants buried at Malaga, <a href="#page_73">73</a><br /> - -Puchero, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> - -Puerta del Vino, the, at the Alhambra, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -Punch, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -“Purissima,” the, <a href="#page_60">60</a><br /> - -Pusey, Dr., <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -Puseyism at Oxford, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -Pynes, <a href="#page_206">206ⁿ</a><br /> - -<br /> -<i><a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Quarterly Review</i>, the, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Quesada, Captain General of Andalusia, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Madrid, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Borrow on, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>; <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reforms the police, <a href="#page_106">106</a>; <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his character, <a href="#page_136">136</a></span><br /> - -Quesada, Madame, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Queso de albaricoqui, <a href="#page_42">42</a><br /> - -Quintas, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br /> - -<i>Quixote, Don</i>, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Rabat, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Rack Street, Exeter, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Radford, Mr., his establishment, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Radnor, Lord, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -Rafaello ware, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> - -Ravasa, or Ravisa, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a><br /> - -Reading, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Reform Bill, the, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a><br /> - -Register chest from Exeter Cathedral, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Retford, East, borough of, <a href="#page_53">53</a><br /> - -Reviews and Articles, by Ford:—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Apsley House (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, March 1853), <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Bible in Spain</i> (<i>Edinburgh Review</i>, February 1843), <a href="#page_182">182-6</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cob Walls (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, April 1837), <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Horse’s Foot, the (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1846), <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Larpent’s <i>Journal</i> (<i>Edinburgh Review</i>, July 1853), <a href="#page_214">214ⁿ</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Oliver Twist</i> (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1839), <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prescott’s <i>Ferdinand and Isabella</i> (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1839), <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ronda and Granada (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, March 1839), <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Semilasso in Africa (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, July 1837), <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Architecture (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, March, 1846), <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Bull-feasts and Bull-fights (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, October 1838), <a href="#page_122">122ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_163">163-5</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Heraldry (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1838), <a href="#page_163">163</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Lady’s Love (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, September 1846), <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Painting (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1848), <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Theatre (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, July 1837), <a href="#page_158">158</a></span><br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233">{233}</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Tom Brown’s School Days</i> (<i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1848), <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Zincali, or, The Gipsies in Spain</i> (<i>British and Foreign Review</i>, No. XXVI.), <a href="#page_179">179</a></span><br /> - -Rhine, the, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -Ribalta, Francisco, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -Ribera (Spagnoletto), <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Richmond, George, R.A., <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -del Riego, Don Rafael, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Rio Tinto, mines at, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Roberts, David, his sketches, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Rome, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Ronda, Manzanares at, <a href="#page_20">20</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">snow-clad hills at, <a href="#page_83">83</a>; <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> - -Rubens, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br /> - -<i>Rugby Reminiscences</i>, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Rugby, school food at, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Russia, protects Constantinople, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>Saguntum, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -St. Ambrose, “viscarium diaboli,” <a href="#page_138">138</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> Lambert</span><br /> - -St. Barbe, M. de, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a><br /> - -St. Malo, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -St. Veronica’s handkerchief, <a href="#page_66">66ⁿ</a><br /> - -St. Vincent, Cape, <a href="#page_101">101ⁿ</a><br /> - -Sala de los Abencerrages, the, <a href="#page_72">72</a><br /> - -Sala de los Embajadores, the, at the Alhambra, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -Salamanca, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ford’s picture, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a></span><br /> - -Salic Law, the, set aside in favour of Isabella, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a><br /> - -Salsa de Zandunga, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -<i>Sam Slick</i>, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -San Diego, Jesuit convent at, <a href="#page_1">1</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ford’s child buried at, <a href="#page_98">98</a></span><br /> - -San Felipe de Xativa: <i>see</i> Xativa<br /> - -San Fernando’s Monks, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -San Ignacio, Cueva de, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -San Lorenzo, Duchess of, <a href="#page_66">66</a><br /> - -San Lorenzo, Duke of, <a href="#page_87">87</a><br /> - -San Martin, Bishop of Barcelona, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -San Martin, General, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -San Miguel, Evaristo, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -San Pedro, vespers of, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> - -San Yuste, convent, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -Sancho IV. (El Bravo), <a href="#page_84">84</a><br /> - -Sandridge, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> - -Santa Cruz, Marques de, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Santa Engracia, convent at Zaragoça, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -Santiago, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Sarah, <a href="#page_69">69</a><br /> - -Sarsfield, General, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br /> - -“la Sartenilla de Andalucia” (Ecija), <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Sartorius, Admiral Sir George, <a href="#page_101">101ⁿ</a><br /> - -Schepeler, his <i>Histoire de la Révolution en Espagne</i>, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Scott, Sir Walter, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Scrope, William, his <i>Art of Deer-stalking</i> (1838), <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -Segovia, <a href="#page_59">59</a><br /> - -Selkirk, Lord, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -<i>Semilasso in Africa</i>, Ford’s article on, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Senior, William Nassau, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -Seu, the, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Seville, Mr. Wetherell’s tannery at, <a href="#page_1">1</a>; <a href="#page_11">11-12</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Game at, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spring climate, <a href="#page_22">22</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">floods at, <a href="#page_23">23</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">taken by Mohammed I., <a href="#page_59">59</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">carnival at, <a href="#page_79">79</a>; <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cholera at, <a href="#page_127">127</a></span><br /> - -Sheets, at the Alcazar, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234">{234}</a></span>Shirreff, Captain, port admiral at Gibraltar, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Sicily, trip to, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -“Sidi Habismilk” (Borrow’s Arabian horse), <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -Sierra Leone, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Sierra Morena, the, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Sierra Nevada, the, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Smiles, Samuel, his <i>Memoir of John Murray</i> quoted, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Socrates, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> - -Sorauren (or Sauroren), <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Soto de Roma, Duke of Wellington’s property at, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a><br /> - -Southampton, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Southernhay, Exeter, <a href="#page_135">135-7</a><br /> - -Southey, Robert, his <i>History of the Peninsular War</i>, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Spagnoletto, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Spain, political condition of, <a href="#page_3">3-5</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#page_6">6</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fresh outbreak in, <a href="#page_188">188</a></span><br /> - -<i>Spanish-Bull-feasts and Bull-fights</i>, Ford’s article on, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <i>seq.</i><br /> - -Spring Rice, Mr., <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Stalking-horse, the, <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Standish, Mr. Hall, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a><br /> - -<i>Star</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Starke, Mariana, her <i>Travels in Europe</i>, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br /> - -Stewart, ——, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Stoke Gabriel, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -Stroud, returns Lord John Russell, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Style, Ford’s, <a href="#page_139">139-44</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Surplice, the white, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Tafilet, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Talavera, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">battle of, Ford’s picture, <a href="#page_209">209</a></span><br /> - -Tangier, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Tariff, the, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> - -Tariffa, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">women at, <a href="#page_85">85</a>; <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> - -Tarragona, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -Tartana, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Telbin’s Diorama, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> - -Terni, falls at, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Tertulia, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br /> - -Tetuan, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#page_120">120</a></span><br /> - -Theatre, the Spanish, Ford’s article on, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Thurtell, Mr., <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -“Tia Antonia”: <i>see</i> Francisca de Molina<br /> - -Tierney, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -“Tigers, the,” <a href="#page_44">44</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Tio, Jorge, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Tiles (<i>azulejos</i>), <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Toledo, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -<i>Tom Brown’s School Days</i>, <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reviewed by Ford, <a href="#page_134">134ⁿ</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a></span><br /> - -Toreadors, <a href="#page_103">103ⁿ</a><br /> - -de la Torre, Frasquito, and his robbers, <a href="#page_86">86</a><br /> - -Torrijos, General, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lands near Malaga, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">surrenders, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death of, <a href="#page_73">73</a></span><br /> - -Toulouse, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Tragala, the, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Transportation, Sir W. Molesworth and, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> - -Travelling in Spain, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Morocco, <a href="#page_119">119</a></span><br /> - -Triana, suburb of Seville, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Triunfo, the, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br /> - -Twickenham, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Tyrwhitt, Edmund, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -Tyrwhitt, Sir Henry, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235">{235}</a></span>Tyrwhitt-Jones, Sir T., Bart., <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a>Urdax, Moreno murdered at, <a href="#page_73">73</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="V" id="V"></a>Valdepeñas, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Valdès, General, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Valencia, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pictures at, <a href="#page_60">60</a></span><br /> - -Valladolid, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br /> - -Vega, the, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br /> - -Vega, Lope de, <a href="#page_89">89</a><br /> - -Vejer, fight at, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>; <a href="#page_85">85</a><br /> - -Velazquez, <a href="#page_96">96</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ford’s Life of, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a></span><br /> - -Venta de Cardenas, the, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Venta de Quesada, the, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Vera, capture of, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Via Babuino, the, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br /> - -Vigo, the <i>Hermes</i> at, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Villiers, George, Minister at Madrid, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his dinners, <a href="#page_134">134</a></span><br /> - -“Viscarium diaboli,” <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Visiting, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Morocco, <a href="#page_119">119</a></span><br /> - -Vitoria, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ford’s picture, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a></span><br /> - -<br /> -<i><a name="W" id="W"></a>Wasp</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Watches, cheap, <a href="#page_50">50</a><br /> - -Water at the Alhambra, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a><br /> - -Waterloo, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -Watt, James, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Weare, Mr., <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -Wellesley, Henry, <a href="#page_95">95</a><br /> - -Wellington, Duke of, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -<i>Western Times</i>, the, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Westmorland, Lord, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Wetherell, Mr., his tannery at Seville, <a href="#page_1">1</a><br /> - -Wetherell, Sir Charles, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Weymouth, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -White, Mr. Fernando, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Widdrington: <i>see</i> Samuel Edward Cook<br /> - -Wilkie, David, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Williams, Don Julian, Consul at Seville, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a><br /> - -“Wilsons,” Ford’s, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -Winchester, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Women, the “viscarium diaboli,” <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="X" id="X"></a>Xativa, San Felipe de, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Xeres, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Xenil, the, cypresses from, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -<br /> -<i><a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Yes or No</i>, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="Z" id="Z"></a>Zafra, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br /> - -Zagal, the, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Zamarra, the, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -Zamora, <a href="#page_94">94</a><br /> - -Zandunga, salsa de, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -Zaragoça, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Maid of, <a href="#page_55">55</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first siege of, <a href="#page_55">55</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">second siege of, <a href="#page_56">56</a>; <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a></span><br /> - -<i>Zincali</i>, Borrow’s, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -Zouave medals, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -Zurbaran, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -</p> - -<p class="fint"><i>Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England.</i></p> - -<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> General Sir George Don.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The free warehousing of goods at the Port of Cadiz was -permitted from 1828 to 1832, when the increase of smuggling led to its -abandonment.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The Marques de las Amarillas, who had been War Minister in -1820, was nominated by Ferdinand VII. to the Council of “Regency.” He -was appointed Captain-General of Andalusia in 1832.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Don Julian Williams, Consul at Seville, and, in Ford’s -opinion, the best judge of Spanish pictures then living.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Lord Lyndhurst, according to Greville (<i>Memoirs</i>, ed. 1888, -vol. ii. p. 69), expected that the Great Seal would be put in -commission, and that, after a few months, he would fill the office -again. Brougham’s acceptance of the Lord Chancellorship upset his -calculations.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Greville makes the same criticism, and enumerates six -members of the Grey family who were provided for in the distribution of -offices. (<i>Ibid.</i>, p. 80.)</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <i>Bible in Spain</i> (ed. 1896), vol. i. p. 181.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>Bible in Spain</i>, p. 204.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <i>A Summer in Andalucia</i> (G. Dennis), vol. i., p. 264, 2 -vols. 8vo, London, 1839.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Mr. (afterwards Sir John) Brackenbury, the Consul at -Cadiz.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Samuel Edward Cook, Captain in the Royal Navy, assumed in -1840 the name of Widdrington. He published in 1834 <i>Sketches in Spain -during 1829-32</i> (London, 2 vols. 8vo). He paid a second visit to Spain -in 1843, accompanied by Professor Daubeny, then Professor of Botany and -Chemistry at Oxford. Of this visit Captain Widdrington gives an account -in his <i>Spain and the Spaniards in 1843</i> (London, 2 vols. 8vo, 1844).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <i>L’Espagne sous Ferdinand VII.</i> Par le Marquis Astolphe de -Custine. 4 tomes, 12º, Bruxelles, 1838.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> “Widow of a Brigadier” at Granada, says Captain Cook -(<i>Sketches in Spain</i>, vol. i., p. 327).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> “Ally Croaker” is a song in Foote’s comedy <i>The Englishman -in Paris</i> (1753): it was sung by Miss Macklin to the guitar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Alluding to the name assumed by the husband of Mrs. Ford -in <i>The Merry Wives of Windsor</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Half a farthing the pitcher.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Probably Ford had advised Addington to wear a cheap watch -for fear of brigands. To have no watch at all was construed as an -attempt to cheat the robber of his legitimate reward, and exposed a -traveller to worse treatment than a slender purse.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> In 1830 the Parliamentary area of the corrupt Borough of -East Retford was enlarged by the addition of the Hundred of Bassetlaw, -in which the delinquent borough was situated (1 Wm. IV. c. 74). The -borough electorate was thus increased by the forty-shilling freeholders -who already voted in the elections for their county. (Porritt’s -<i>Unreformed House of Commons</i>, vol. i. p. 16.)</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> The guitars made at Cadiz by Juan Pajez, and his son Josef -rank with the violins of Stradivarius. The best have a backboard of dark -wood called <i>Palo Santo</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Vicente Joanes, or Juanes (1523-1579).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Francisco Ribalta (1551-1628).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> <i>Spain in 1830.</i> By H. D. Inglis, 2 vols. 8vo, London, -1831.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Mohammed I. (Ibn-al-Ahmar), 1238-71, is said to have begun -the Alhambra in 1248. When he returned from the surrender of Seville, -his subjects saluted him by the title <i>galib</i> or conqueror. He replied -“<i>Le galib ile Allah</i>” (“There is no conqueror but God”). The words are -everywhere introduced in the building as the founder’s motto. <i>El Rey -chico</i> was the name given to Abu Abdullah (corrupted by the Spaniards -into Boabdila), the last Moorish King of Granada.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> <i>El Santo Rostro</i>, the impression of our Saviour’s face on -the handkerchief of St. Veronica, was only shown to the public on great -festivals.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Ford’s <i>Handbook for Travellers in Spain</i> is dedicated to -Sir William Eden, Bart., “in remembrance of pleasant years spent in -well-beloved Spain.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Don Juan Antonio Monet, appointed Minister of War October -1832.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> The village of Arapiles was the Duke of Wellington’s -position at the battle of Salamanca, July 22nd, 1812.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> The visit which John Frederick Lewis (1805-76) paid to -Spain (1832-4) was a turning-point in his artistic career. Till then he -had devoted himself almost exclusively to animals. His <i>Sketches and -Drawings of the Alhambra</i> were published in 1835, and his <i>Sketches of -Spain and Spanish Character</i> in 1836. Frederick Christian Lewis, the -father of “Spanish” Lewis, was a well-known engraver and landscape -painter.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> The Infante, Francisco de Paula, youngest child of Maria -Luisa, wife of Charles IV., was said to be her son by Godoy. He married -the Princess Carlota, sister of Queen Christina and the Duchesse de -Berry. His son was King Consort of Isabella II. (1846).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> <i>A cuarto</i> is a copper coin of the value of four -<i>maravedis</i>, i.e. about a farthing.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir George) Sartorius, was in -1831 appointed to command the Portuguese fleet acting for Maria da -Gloria against Dom Miguel. His command was successful. But the final -blow was struck by Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir Charles) Napier, who -succeeded him in June 1833. Napier destroyed Dom Miguel’s fleet off Cape -St. Vincent, July 3rd, 1833. The news reached London on July 14th, “to -the great delight of the Whigs and equal mortification of the Tories” -(<i>Greville Memoirs</i>, ed. 1888, vol. iii. p. 9).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The <i>Maestranza</i> was a corporation of gentlemen, -instituted by Charles V., to improve the breed of horses, encourage -equestrian exercises, and control the management of amphitheatres. Men -of rank and good family, like Don Rafael Guzman, rarely adopted the -profession of <i>toreador</i>. But the Infante, Don Francisco, was at the -head of a movement to revive the art of bull-fighting.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Sir Walter Scott died September 21st, 1832.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> <a href="#page_1">See page 1.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> The Egyptian troops under Ibrahim Pacha, son of Mehemet -Ali, defeated the Turks at Konieh, December 21st, 1832. The Sultan -appealed for aid to the Czar, who ordered 30,000 troops and 12 sail of -the line to go to the protection of Constantinople. Further hostilities -were averted by the treaty of Kutayah, May 1833.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> The capture of Alhama, the key to Granada, February 28th, -1482, prepared the way for the expulsion of the Moors. <i>Ay de mi, -Alhama!</i> (“Woe is me, Alhama!”) is the refrain of Byron’s “very mournful -ballad” (<i>Poems</i>, vol. iv., pp. 529-34, ed. 1901).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> <i>Spanish Bull-feasts and Bull-fights.</i> By Richard Ford. -<i>Quarterly Review</i>, No. CXXIV., October 1838, pp. 395-6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Sir Edmund Head wrote, among other works and translations, -<i>A Handbook of the History of the Spanish and French Schools of -Painting</i> (London, 1848), which was reviewed by Ford in the Quarterly -Review, No. CLXV., June 1848, pp. 1-37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> A volume of the sketches of David Roberts was published in -1837, under the title of <i>Picturesque Sketches in Spain</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> James Ford (1797-1877) was ordained in 1821, and became a -Prebendary of Exeter Cathedral in 1849. A good classical scholar, he was -a voluminous writer, chiefly on religious and moral subjects. In 1825 he -married Jane Frances Nagle. Their eldest daughter married Thomas Hughes, -the author of <i>Tom Brown’s School Days</i>, which Richard Ford, himself a -contemporary of Arnold at Winchester, reviewed in the <i>Quarterly Review</i> -for October 1857, the last article he ever wrote.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> General Manuel Llauder commanded the Royalist troops -against the Liberal leaders Mina and Valdès in Navarre, and by the -capture of Vera, October 1830, had suppressed the rising. As -Inspector-General of Infantry, he was chosen by Queen Christina, in -October 1832, to replace the Conde de España, an avowed Carlist, as -Captain-General of Catalonia. Ford probably means that Llauder, who at -first had been inclined to moderate Liberalism, grew reactionary in his -views. It was his later political opinions which made his appointment as -Minister of War in 1835 so unpopular, and in July 1835 led to his -expulsion from Barcelona.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> James Howell’s <i>Epistolæ Ho-elianæ; Familiar Letters, -Domestic and Foreign, etc.</i>, 4 vols., 1645-55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> The <i>Itinéraire descriptif de l’Espagne</i> (par Alexandre de -Laborde, 5 tomes, Paris, 1806-21) was edited by Bory de Saint Vincent in -1827, who, in 1823, had published a <i>Guide du Voyageur en Espagne</i> -(Paris, 1823).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> The two articles, one on the Spanish Theatre, the other a -review of <i>Semilasso in Africa</i>, appeared in No. CXVII. of the -<i>Quarterly Review</i> (July 1837), pp. 62-87 and 133-64 respectively.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> Mariana Starke wrote <i>Travels in Europe for the use of -Travellers on the Continent, and likewise in the Island of Sicily. To -which is added an account of the remains of ancient Italy</i>. (1st -Edition, 1820; 8th Edition, 1833.)</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Reprinted from the <i>Memoir of John Murray</i>. By Samuel -Smiles, vol. ii. pp. 491-2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> <i>The Bible in Spain.</i> By George Borrow, London, 1842 (2 -vols. 12mo).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> “Mr. Borrow’s book on the <i>Gipsies of Spain</i>, published a -couple of years ago, was so much and so well reviewed (though not, to -our shame be it said, in our own journal), that we cannot suppose his -name is new to any of our readers.”—<i>Quarterly Review</i>, No. CXLI. (Dec. -1842), p. 169.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> ‘Meta’ Ford, born October 1840, the only child of Richard -Ford’s second wife, married Oswald John Frederick Crawford, and died in -1899. She inherited much of her father’s wit, love of art, and -conversational ability.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> <i>Histoire de la Révolution en Espagne.</i> 3 vols. Leipzig, -1829-31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Georgina Ford married the Rev. Mowbray Northcote, third -and youngest son of Sir Stafford Henry Northcote, Bart., of Pynes, near -Exeter.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Mary Jane Ford married Edmund Tyrwhitt, second son of Sir -T. Tyrwhitt Jones, Bart.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> Miss Caroline Molesworth, Mrs. Ford’s aunt, was a -distinguished botanist and meteorologist, whose scientific papers were -edited by Miss Ormerod (<i>Cobham Journals: Meteorological Observations</i>, -London, 1880, 8vo).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> He also reviewed Larpent’s <i>Journal</i> in the <i>Edinburgh -Review</i> for July 1853 (vol. xcviii. pp. 216-40).</p></div> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/ill_013.jpg" width="356" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The letters of Richard Ford, 1797-1858, by -Richard Ford - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LETTERS OF RICHARD FORD *** - -***** This file should be named 60992-h.htm or 60992-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/9/9/60992/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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