diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/60621-h/60621-h.htm')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60621-h/60621-h.htm | 5263 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 5263 deletions
diff --git a/old/60621-h/60621-h.htm b/old/60621-h/60621-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 69adc4e..0000000 --- a/old/60621-h/60621-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5263 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey. - </title> -<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2 { - text-align: center; - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -div.titlepage {text-align: center; page-break-before: always; page-break-after: always;} -div.titlepage p {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.5; margin-top: 2em;} - - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - - .tdr {text-align: right;} - - -.pagenum { - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} - - - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 20%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.center {text-align: center;} - - - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.gap {padding-left: 10em;} -.gap2 {padding-left: 6em;} -.gap3 {padding-left: 4em;} -.indent {margin-left: 2em;} - -.ph1 {text-align: center; font-size: xx-large; font-weight: bold;} -.ph2 {text-align: center; font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold;} -.ph3 {text-align: center; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;} - -.xxlarge {font-size: 200%;} -.large {font-size: 125%;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold; text-align: center;} - -p.drop-cap { - text-indent: -0.2em; -} - -p.drop-cap:first-letter -{ - float: left; - margin: 0.15em 0.1em 0em 0em; - font-size: 250%; - line-height:0.55em; - text-indent: 0em; -} -@media handheld -{ - p.drop-cap { - text-indent: 0em; - } - p.drop-cap:first-letter - { - float: none; - margin: 0; - font-size: 100%; - } -} - - - - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; -} - -.figleft { - margin-left: 1em; -} - -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by -Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Boys' Make-at-Home Things - -Author: Carolyn Sherwin Bailey - Marian Elizabeth Bailey - -Release Date: November 3, 2019 [EBook #60621] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David E. Brown, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - -<h1>BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS</h1> -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_005.jpg" alt="" /></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="titlepage"> - -<p><span class="xxlarge">BOYS’<br /> -MAKE-AT-HOME<br /> -THINGS</span></p> - -<p>BY<br /> -<span class="large">CAROLYN SHERWIN BAILEY</span><br /> -AND<br /> -<span class="large">MARIAN ELIZABETH BAILEY</span></p> - -<p>WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="" /></div> - -<p>NEW YORK<br /> -<span class="large">FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY</span><br /> -PUBLISHERS</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center"> -<i>Copyright, 1912, by</i><br /> -<span class="smcap">Frederick A. Stokes Company</span><br /> -<br /> -<i>All rights reserved, including that of translation into foreign<br /> -languages, including the Scandinavian</i></p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<div class="figleft"><img src="images/i_007.jpg" alt="" /><p><i>September, 1912</i></p></div></div> - - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">PREFACE</h2></div> - - -<p>Make-At-Home-Things for Boys aims to keep -boys busy and entertained. It furnishes them -with simple directions for making toys and useful -articles, all of which are carefully pictured. The -aim of the book, is to give boys an idea of the -craft possibilities which lie in the crudest materials, -often the waste material of the home and in -this way to develop real artistic ability.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></p> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2></div> - - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="table"> - -<tr><td> </td><td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Preface</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_v">v</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Making of Tools Necessary for Whittling</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Practical Work Bench</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Work Bench Accessories</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Turning Lathe</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Toy Train</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Out-door Toys</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own Desk Set</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Wild Animals You can Make</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Set of Mission Furniture</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Toys That Hide in the Wood Box</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Wonderful Dodo Bird</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Fleet of Toy Boats</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Play Tent</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own Tops</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Farm the Scissors Built</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">More Box Plays</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Recipe for a Noah’s Ark</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own Uniform</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Jointed Toy Animals. How to Make Them</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Your Own Circus</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bead Work for Boys</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Stick Pictures</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Toy Indian Village</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_149">149</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Corn Toys and How to Make Them</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_155">155</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Marble Bag</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own School Box</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Home-made Christmas Tree Stand</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Wrap Christmas Parcels</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_177">177</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Your Own Wireless Receiving Station</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_183">183</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2></div> - - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="table"> - -<tr><td>Whittled Toy Train</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_i"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td class="tdr"><small>FACING PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Knife-strop</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_6a">6</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Whittled Weather Vane; Kite Stick; “Cat”; Reel -for Fish Line; “Cat” Stick</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_38a">38</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>File; Ink Well; Pen Tray</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_46a">46</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Book Rack</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_50a">50</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Whittled Wild Animals: Giraffe, Camel</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_54a">54</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Whittled Wild Animals: Bear, Lion, “Darwin”</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_56a">56</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Dolls’ Chair and Table Whittled in Mission Style</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_60a">60</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Dolls’ Whittled Chest of Drawers; Dolls’ Whittled -Bed</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_64a">64</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Toy Barnyard Made of Kindling Wood</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_68a">68</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Set of Dolls’ Furniture Made by Gluing Together -Blocks of Kindling Wood</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74a">74</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Dodo Bird</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_80a">80</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Cork Raft; A Cork Sail Boat</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_84a">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Whittled Toy Sail Boat</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_88a">88</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Whittled Clown Top</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_96a">96</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Beet Top; Top Made of Graduated Disks; Button Mold Top</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_98a">98</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Cart, Barn and Barrow Made of Cardboard Boxes</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_104a">104</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Circus Parade (The Cage is Made of a Shoe Box)</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_108a">108</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Ark; Cardboard Animals Who Live in the Ark</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_112a">112</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Going Aboard the Ark</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_114a">114</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Pattern for Soldier’s Cap; The Finished Uniform: -Cap, Shield, Sword and Epaulets</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_120a">120</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Jointed Cardboard Animals</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_126a">126</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Bead Loom Made of a Box Cover</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_140a">140</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Stick Illustration of the Story of The Three Bears</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_146a">146</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Corn Cob Pappoose; Corn Cob Indian</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_158a">158</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Whittled School Box; Chamois Marble Bag</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_164a">164</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="ph1">BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - - - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span> - - - -<p class="ph2">BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME -THINGS</p> - - - - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE MAKING OF TOOLS NECESSARY -FOR WHITTLING</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THE tools which one will need for whittling—the -kind of whittling that makes something -besides splinters—are very simple and few in -number. Any boy’s pocket will furnish a jack-knife, -and it is pretty sure to be a sharp one.</p> - -<p>With a knife, a pencil, and some pieces of -wood, all the other tools may be made. Basswood -is the easiest wood to handle because it is -soft, and very close grained. If basswood can -not be had, pine is the next best wood, and an -old egg crate, which any grocer will be glad to -get rid of, will furnish you with enough whittling -material for a long time.</p> - -<p>The scale for measuring (Fig. 3) should be -made first, as it is the tool most necessary in -laying out the other tools. One of the thin strips -from the side of the egg crate may be used for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> -this. The outline of the scale must be drawn on -the wood with a hard pencil. A “6 H” is the -best. The “H” means “hard,” and the number -of H’s shows the degree of hardness. The pencil -should be sharpened on both ends—one end -rubbed to a fine point on sandpaper, and the -other end to a chisel point. The sharp point is to -mark, accurately, the points to which lines are -to be drawn, and the chisel point is to draw the -lines with. After the outline is drawn it may -be cut.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_017.jpg" alt="" /></div> - -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></p> - -<p>First take off a splinter or two to determine the -direction of the grain, because one long cut -against the grain might spoil your work. When -this is determined, you should cut down <i>almost</i> -to the outline, using a long, free stroke from the -shoulder for the cutting in the direction of the -grain. For the cross-grained cutting at the ends, -the knife is held in the four fingers, with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> -thumb steadying the near side of the wood, and -the cut is made toward the thumb. Only a very -short cut may be made at a time, and then a bit -of wood is clipped away so that the next cut may -be made. This cutting, also, should be done -near, but not on, the line. After the model is -roughly cut out, it should be worked down very -carefully to the lines, the beveled edge cut, and -then sandpapered smooth all over. The sandpaper -must be put over a small block of wood, and -held very flat. Otherwise it will spoil a straight -surface. Then the graduations are to be put on. -If nothing better is at hand, the spacing may be -done with mother’s tape measure. Lay off the -spaces with the pointed end of the pencil, and then -draw the lines which show the spacing, making -those which show the sixteenths, <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ long; the -eighths, <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>″ long; the quarters, <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ long; the -halves, <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″, or the full width of the bevel. -This must be done with a pencil, for ink would -run into the wood and spread. The inch dimensions -should be marked 1, 2, 3, etc., and a light -coat of shellac or varnish will add much to the -durability of the scale. The back edge of the -scale may be used as a straight edge, and to lay -the pencil against for drawing lines, but it should -be remembered that the scale itself—that is, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> -graduated side—must never be used for this. If -it were, the graduations would soon be spoiled.</p> - -<p>The tool which is most necessary next to the -scale is the square (Fig. 4), and this should also -be made with great accuracy. It is used to test -two adjoining edges, to see if they are square -with each other. In making anything of wood, -one of the largest surfaces is generally made perfectly -true, and marked with a little cross (x), -designating it as the “face.” One of the adjoining -edges—not a cross-grained one—is also made -true and square with the first surface, and marked -with a second cross, as the “working edge.” -Then all the other measuring and squaring is -done from these two surfaces.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_019.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></p> - -<p>The piece of wood to be tested should be held -in the left hand, on a level with the eye, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> -the square held in the right hand, with one of the -inner edges resting against the wood, and the -other projecting over it is moved back and forth. -Any unevenness in the wood will readily be seen. -The outside edges of the square may also be used -for testing the evenness of wide flat surfaces. -It is made like the pattern, of two strips of wood, -with a fitted joint glued together.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_020.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p> - -<p>The knife strop shown in Fig. 1 is a great help -in whittling, because it will keep your knife in -good condition. A piece of the heavier wood at -the end of the egg crate may be used for this. It -is made from a strip measuring 1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>″ wide by 11″ -long, and the strip of leather (cut from a discarded -razor strop) is glued on. The <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>″ bevel -is continued all the way around the handle on -both sides to make it fit the hand. The hole in -the end is to hang it up by, and may be made -with a hammer and nail, or with a bit and brace -if you have one.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>The pencil sharpener (Fig. 2), is also a very -necessary help in whittling and it is very simple -to make. A strip of thin wood 1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>″x7″ forms -the foundation. This is narrowed down at the -handle end to <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>″. The curves may be marked -on the outline, free hand, and in cutting you must -be very careful to remember the grain of the -wood. The curves at the ends should be cut -from each side toward the middle of the end, -gradually working into a cross-cut. The curves -at the sides must be cut from the wider part toward -the handle, using the point of the knife, and -working with great care so as not to split the -wood. A strip of sandpaper 1″x3″ is glued on -and the sharpener is complete.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p> - -<p>With these tools finished a boy is ready to begin -some real whittling, and make other models -which will be quite as useful, and very much more -attractive.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6a" id="Page_6a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_022.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">KNIFE-STROP</p> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICAL WORKBENCH</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">A GOOD practical workbench may be made -by any boy who can handle the simplest -tools and procure a little suitable lumber.</p> - -<p>The lumber should be bought at a lumber yard, -in the rough, which will cost a great deal less -than finished boards.</p> - -<p>It will require 26 ft. of two-by-four pine boards, -12 ft. of two-by-six’s, and 23 ft. of one-by-six’s. -The two-by-four’s cost one and three-quarters -cents a running foot, the two-by-six’s are two and -a half cents, and the one-by-six’s, one and a half -cents. The boards come in regular lengths, from -ten feet up to sixteen, or in some cases, up to -twenty-four feet long. It will be best to get a -twenty-four foot one-by-six board if possible, a -twelve foot two-by-six, one twelve foot and one -fourteen foot two-by-four. This will make the -total cost for boards one dollar and twelve cents.</p> - -<p>Aside from the pine boards for the bench itself -it will require a piece of oak measuring three by -four inches and thirty-four inches long, for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> -bench vise; a screw and handle for the vise (costing -thirty-five cents at any hardware store); a -pound of four inch nails; and two square headed -iron bolts, one half inch in diameter and four -inches long, each fitted with two iron washers -and one square nut.</p> - -<p>Saw off, first, from the twelve foot two-by-four, -four pieces thirty-three inches long. These -are the legs of the bench, and they are to stand -with their broad four-inch faces toward the ends -of the bench. Then cut in each one of these -joints like those shown in Fig. 1. The sides in -which the joints are cut face toward each other -at the ends of the bench and into them is fitted the -supporting framework.</p> - -<p>For the lower framework cut from the fourteen -foot two-by-four two pieces forty-two inches -long and four pieces nineteen inches long. Two -of the nineteen-inch pieces are to be left as they -are, but the other two and the two forty-two inch -pieces should have joints cut at the ends like Fig. -2. These joints, as well as the joints in the uprights, -are cut with a saw, and the wood is split -out with a chisel. Then these four jointed pieces -are fitted together and glued or nailed to form a -framework nineteen by forty-two inches. The -four uprights are then fitted in place and nailed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> -increasing the width of the ends to twenty-three -inches. Then the other two nineteen-inch pieces -are fitted into the top of the uprights across each -end, and nailed in place. Four braces (Fig. 3) -for the ends are made from two sixteen-inch -pieces of the one-by-six stock. Each piece is first -cut in two, lengthwise, with a rip saw. This -makes four pieces twenty inches long by three -inches wide. Mark the center joint of each end -of each piece. Then measure on both sides, from -each end, a distance of one and a half inches. -Connect these points with the end points by a line -and saw off the corners, leaving on each end a -right-angled point. The braces are then nailed -in place as shown in Fig. 4.</p> - - - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_026.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p> - - - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>This finishes the body part of the bench. -Next, cut from the one-by-six board a piece fifty-six -inches long. Fit it across the front of the -frame, just even, or flush with the top, and projecting -seven inches beyond the uprights at either -end. Then nail in position.</p> - -<p>Cut from the twelve foot two-by-six board two -pieces fifty-six inches long. Place one of them -across the top of the bench at the extreme front, -so that it is flush with the wide surface of the -front board. Nail this to the end framework and -nail the second piece in position just back of it.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>It is necessary for this much of the top to be -very heavy, for this is where the heavy strain of -the work will come. The remainder of the top -is made of two strips of one-by-six wood. In -order to make this even with the two front strips -which are thicker it is necessary to put pieces -underneath it at each end. For these cut a piece -of one-by-six board twelve inches long and rip it -in two. Place these strips along the end frame, -then place the top boards on them and nail all in -position. When this is done the whole top of the -bench may be made partially smooth, if it is desired, -with a jack plane. Then cut one more -strip of one-by-six fifty-six inches long and nail -across the back of the bench, allowing it to project -three inches above the top.</p> - -<p>The vise, as it comes from the store, consists of -a long, straight, square-headed screw about an -inch in diameter, which ends in a round iron -plate and a T-shaped pipe. The plate is loose but -not removable. Through the T a long wooden -handle fits. Beside this there is an elliptical plate -holding a threaded pipe which the screw works -in. To put it together, first make a piece from -the remaining two-by-six like Fig. 5. This piece -forms the inner side of the vise and fits <i>inside</i> of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> -the front piece of the bench, just touching the -under side of the top, and <i>outside</i> of the lower -framework. Its edge should be four inches in -from the front leg of the bench. Corresponding -holes are made with a bit and brace in the front -piece of the bench and counter-sunk a half inch. -The two pieces are then bolted together, the heads -of the bolts and the iron washer fitting down in -the counter-sink, and the other washer being -placed under the nut on the other side. The receptacle -for the vise screw is fastened in position -through the back of Fig. 5.</p> - -<p>Next, the piece of oak is prepared for the vise -jaw. It is slanted off at the ends like Fig. 6, the -outer edges rounded, a hole somewhat larger than -the vise screw cut through as shown, and a joint -cut through with chisel and hammer near the bottom. -Into this joint fit Fig. 7, a piece of wood -one by four inches and twelve inches long, which -is intended to keep the jaws of the vise approximately -even. It fits into the oak with a drive fit -and has holes zigzagged or “staggered” across it -into which a round peg three inches fits. By -placing this peg in different holes the bottom -opening of the vise may be adjusted to correspond -with the desired top opening.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>The long screw of the vise is slipped through -the hole made for it, and the plate is screwed in -place.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" /></div> - -<p class="caption"><i>Work Bench Complete.</i></p> - -<p>This completes a bench which will prove a great -help to the boy workman, and which takes -scarcely more time in making than it has in describing.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">WORKBENCH ACCESSORIES</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">WHEN you have made yourself this fine, big -workbench you will find out very soon -that there are a number of workbench accessories -which will make it much more convenient and -desirable.</p> - -<p>The first thing that will be missed is a tool -rack. With tools scattered all over the bench it -is difficult to do good work. It means a waste -of time and sometimes a waste of temper, while, -if the tools are hanging right before one’s eyes -in an orderly row, each one may be taken as it is -needed, and replaced again when one is through, -and the work will go on smoothly.</p> - -<p>A single pine board six inches wide, one inch -thick and sixteen feet long will make all the accessories -one can want. It is better to procure a -finished board from the planing mill. It will cost -three or four cents a running foot—a total cost at -the most of sixty-four cents.</p> - -<p>For the tool rack cut from the board two fifty-six-inch -lengths. Cut one of these in two lengthwise -with a rip saw and plane the sawed edge smooth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> -and square with the face or wide, flat side of the -board. With a pencil and scale mark the positions -on the centers of the holes shown in Fig. 1. -Then when the centers have been determined, -drill them according to the sizes indicated, with a -bit and brace. The first three holes at the left -are to hold bits; the next two, chisel and gouge, -and the others are for screw-drivers. These -latter four, after the holes are drilled, are made -open clear to the edge of the rack by sawing out -a section from the front. This makes it possible -to take the tools out without lifting them entirely -out of the rack. From the right-hand end -mark off a distance of twelve inches. Then, -from the end to this line, cut two grooves as -shown in the drawing. The forward one is -rounded out with a gouge to hold a pencil while -the back one is square and flat, cut with a chisel, -to hold either a twelve-inch scale or a folded two-foot -rule. In the front edge of this piece, about -six inches from the right-hand end is driven a -nail to hold the claw hammer.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of Work-bench Accessories.</p> - -<p>The fifty-six-inch length which was not ripped -in two is fitted at right angles to the back of this -rack, lapping over the edge and flush with the -top. It is nailed in position and two supporting -brackets like Fig. 2 are fitted under each end of -the rack for strength. When this is all fastened -together, the whole rack is set up on top of the -back pieces of the workbench and held in place -by two cleats, three inches by eight which are -screwed to both the back piece of the bench and -the back piece of the rack.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>Underneath the holes for the bits there should -be two nails to hold the brace. The jack plane, -block plane, and spoke shave may stand on the -bench underneath the rack, and screws or nails -at the end of the bench will hold rip saw, cross-cut -saw, and dust brush.</p> - -<p>Next in usefulness is the bench block shown in -Fig. 3. For this cut one piece of wood six inches -by eleven, and two pieces, six inches by two -inches. All these pieces must have the grain -running in the longest direction. When these -are trued up, fit them together as shown, and -fasten with one-and-three-quarter-inch wood -screws. After completing this the corners are -cut off. The block fits over the front edge of the -bench near the right-hand end and forms a brace -when one wants to hold a piece of wood steady -for sawing.</p> - -<p>Next comes the bench stop, Fig. 4. When one -is planing a wide, flat board the vise is useless. -So holes are drilled in pairs in the top of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> -bench itself, and these bench stops are slipped in -to form a buffer. A little piece of wood one by -one by two is used, the grain of course running -the long way. For half of the distance the stop -remains square, while the other inch is rounded -with a chisel to fit into the hole, which should be -slightly more than an inch deep. Two of these -stops will be needed.</p> - -<p>Every workbench needs a nail box. A good -one may be made from two pieces three inches -wide by fourteen inches long, which form the -sides, two ends three inches by three, and a bottom -piece five inches by fourteen. The side pieces -are nailed to the end pieces, fitting over them, and -the bottom fits over all. This makes the inside -measurements three inches by twelve. Of course -it is desirable to keep the different sizes of nails -separate, so this is divided into as many compartments -as are desired by partitions. These can be -made from any old piece of wood about a half -inch thick. They measure three by three inches -and may be spaced however you like, except the -one which is shown in Fig. 5. This is to be -placed in the middle and forms a handle as well -as a partition. Just as convenient, though not -quite as necessary, is a miter box. It consists of -two side pieces five inches by twelve, and one bottom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> -piece four inches by twelve. The side pieces -fit down over the edges of the bottom piece and -are nailed fast. There are no ends. When this -much is done, take a forty-five degree triangle, -and mark across the two top edges one perpendicular -line, and one forty-five degree line in each -direction, making them so that they do not overlap. -Then saw straight down from these lines -to the bottom piece. A miter box will prove -itself a great convenience in sawing the corners -of molding or anything which requires a fitted -corner. The piece to be sawed is held firmly in -the box and the saw guided through the slots.</p> - -<p>When a boy has made the bench and all these -accessories, and has some tools, he will be -equipped for big practical work.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A TURNING LATHE</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">MOST boys have a speaking acquaintance -with a turning lathe. Some boys know -how to use one with good results. But to use -one and own it too—that is a joy which few boys -experience.</p> - -<p>After all, though, a lathe is not such a formidable -machine, and if a boy is quick at catching -an idea and working it out he can make one -for himself.</p> - -<p>Most of the material can be procured from -some machine shop at practically no cost, and the -parts that have to be bought outright will cost -very little.</p> - -<p>The foundation may be an old sewing-machine -stand and the lathe is run, just as a sewing machine -is, by foot power. In almost any junk shop -or second hand shop you will find an old out-of-date -sewing machine for sale. New machines -can be bought so cheaply nowadays that a second -hand one costs next to nothing.</p> - -<p>When you have procured this you must take it -to pieces. The wooden top part is fastened to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> -iron frame by screws from underneath. Take -these out, and the top and drawer at the sides -may be lifted right off. Then take out the screw -at the right hand side of the machine part and -slip off the upper belt wheel. This upper belt -wheel, the belt, the lower belt wheel, and the iron -framework of the machine are all that will be -needed for the lathe, and the rest you may discard, -or put away in the “handy” pile for some future -construction. The lower belt wheel is of course -fastened to the frame, so that does not need to be -disturbed.</p> - -<p>Next get a piece of hickory or some other hard -wood twelve inches wide, three feet long and one-and-one-half -inches thick. Cut a long, narrow -slot in this from one end as is shown in Fig. 1. -Then fasten this piece to the top of the iron frame -with the same screws that fastened the top of the -machine on before. The solid end of the wood -should project two inches beyond the right-hand -end of the frame where the belt is, and the -slotted end will of course extend somewhat beyond -the frame at the left. This is what is called -the “bed” of the lathe. Now bore the two holes -which the belt goes through.</p> - -<p>When this is done, measure the hole in the -center of the upper belt wheel, where the shaft<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> -went through. It will probably be one half inch -in diameter. Then get a piece of gas pipe twelve -inches long and of the same diameter, outside -measurement, as the hole, so that the wheel may -be put on it with a “drive fit.” This simply -means that the wheel fits so tightly that it must -be driven on and, once on, it will not turn. It -should be driven on far enough so that when the -groove for the belt is in line with the groove on -the lower belt wheel, the pipe will project the half -inch beyond the solid end of the bed.</p> - -<p>Now you must make two supports, or “head -blocks” for this. Cut from two-inch-thick hard -wood two pieces like Fig. 2. The square hole is -for the gas pipe to go through and must have a -bearing fitted into it. Of course it would be -easier to cut just a round hole slightly larger than -the pipe for it to turn in, but this bearing, with -much turning, would wear loose. So a one-inch -square hole is cut; the gas pipe, with a piece of -newspaper wrapped around it, is held in the exact -center of the hole, the head block standing upright; -and melted Babbitt metal is poured down -through the hole in the top of the block. To do -this pieces of cardboard should be fitted over the -pipe and tacked to either side of the block, so -that the space inside is like a mold. The metal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> -which remains in the top hole forms a key to hold -it. The Babbitt metal may be bought at a hardware -store in small bars and melted in a kettle in -the fire. It hardens quickly and when hard, the -pipe may be removed, the paper taken off and you -will have a permanent, durable bearing.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_041.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Turning Lathe.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>Slip one of these head blocks on the pipe from -each end, with an iron washer on each side of -each block. The right hand block should be -“flush” with the end of the bed, the pipe projecting -a half inch beyond it. The other block -should be spaced two inches back from the ends -of the slot in the bed. The blocks are fastened -to the bed with long wood screws which come up -through the bed from underneath, and they are -held in position on the gas pipe by making “prick -punch” holes through the pipe close to the washers -and using either “cotter pins” or bent wire -through these. Then the end of the pipe, which -projects over the slot should be filed so that it has -four points, or teeth. This completes the head -of the lathe, and is much the most complicated -part.</p> - -<p>The rest of the lathe consists of a “tail block” -and a tool rest, both of which are adjustable to -any position desired. Fig. 3 shows the tail block. -Like the head blocks, it is made of two-inch thick<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> -stock. The bottom of it is cut to slide back and -forth in the slot. Just underneath it, on the -under side of the bed, is a piece of wood four -inches by two inches and one-inch thick which is -fastened to the tail block by a screw through the -center and which clamps the block in position at -any required distance. At the point marked “P” -a “lag” screw, which is simply a wood screw with -a sharp point and a large flat head, is screwed -through the block. The piece of wood to be -turned is held in place by this lag screw and the -filed teeth on the gas pipe.</p> - -<p>The pieces of the tool rest are shown in Fig. 4 -and Fig. 5. Fig. 6 shows it as it looks when it -is put together in place on the bed of the lathe.</p> - -<p>Fig. 4 shows the tool rest itself—that is, the -part upon which the chisel or gouge is steadied -for cutting. This is fastened upright upon the -end of Fig. 5, which is a standard which extends -across the bed and is clamped in place, as the tail -block is, to a block underneath, except that, instead -of being screwed, it is fastened with a three-eighth -inch bolt and nut.</p> - -<p>Fig. 7 shows the whole lathe “assembled,” or -put together with each part marked according to -its figure numbers so that you can see just how it -goes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_044.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Fig. 7</p> - -<p>All the material it has required has been:</p> - -<blockquote> -<p>One old sewing machine.<br /> -About fifty cents’ worth of hard wood.<br /> -One three-inch lag screw.<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>One three-eighths-inch bolt five inches long, with nut and washer.<br /> -Four iron washers for gas pipe.<br /> -One foot of gas pipe.<br /> -Seven three-inch wood screws.<br /> -A few cents’ worth of Babbitt metal.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The result is a good practical lathe on which -anything up to eight inches in diameter and -twenty-one inches long may be turned; and I -think you’ll all agree that it was well worth the -making.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A TOY TRAIN</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">CLEAR the track there! Push the crib -over in the corner. Pick up those blocks. -Shove the doll’s house and blackboard out of the -way. Hurry and put the old red candy lantern -out of sight. We don’t want any danger signals -here. The Twentieth Century Limited—the -Fast Special of the play room—is coming.</p> - -<p>The construction of the Twentieth Century -Limited follows close upon <i>the making of whittling -tools</i>. A little train it is, just an engine, -coal car, baggage car, and one passenger coach, -but of course there may be any number of additional -cars coupled on, provided the train proves -popular and the nursery traffic is heavy. The -train is made from cigar boxes. The floor of the -engine is made from a flat piece of wood, two -inches wide by four and one-half inches long, cut -perfectly true and then pointed at one end (Fig. -1). Then the cab is made. Fig. 2 shows the -front of it—a piece of wood measuring two inches -by one and three-quarters, and having two little -holes three-eighths of an inch square cut for windows.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> -The side pieces are an inch and a quarter -by two inches, cut in the shape of Fig. 3, and each -has one little window. The roof is an oblong -piece two inches by one and a half. When the -whole cab has been nailed together, it is placed in -position on the floor of the engine, about a quarter -of an inch from the rear end, and nailed there. -For the boiler you can use one of mother’s basting -thread spools. Chip off the ends, making -them even with the part where the thread was -wound, and then nail it to the floor from underneath. -A spot on the upper side of the boiler is -smoothed off, and a tiny spool is glued on for a -smoke stack. The forward wheels are made -from circular pieces an inch in diameter, and the -“drivers” from pieces an inch and a half in diameter. -Then there are bearings for the wheels, -like Fig. 4, those for the smaller wheels being an -inch long, and those for the larger wheels three-quarters -of an inch in length. They are glued -to each side of the floor piece and the axles, made -from lollypop sticks, are slipped through. These -are cut three inches long, which allows plenty of -room for the wheels to turn, and for a little nail -to be put through like a cotter pin, to hold them -on.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_048.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Toy Train.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Toy Train.</p> - -<p>The coal car floor measures two inches square,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> -the sides two inches by one, and the ends one and -three-quarters by one. These are nailed together -to form a little box, and four wheels and bearings -like the forward ones on the engine are made. -The couplings are made from little round brass -hooks, the one on the forward end of each car being -horizontal, and the one in the rear end perpendicular.</p> - -<p>The baggage car is a triumph of whittling, for -it has a door that will slide back and forth just -like a real one. The bottom and top of the car -are oblong pieces of wood two inches by four and -a half, and the end pieces measure two by two -and a quarter inches. The sides are made like -Fig. 5, with an opening an inch and a quarter -square for a doorway. On the inside of the side -pieces, extending to within a half inch of each -end, and starting about an eighth of an inch from -the top a groove is cut, the depth of the groove -being about a quarter of an inch. The door itself -is one and thirteen-sixteenths inches high by -two inches wide, and has two very small, flat-headed, -wood screws, screwed in near the top at -an angle, so that the heads rest in this groove, -and slide back and forth. Above the door is a -strip of wood an eighth of an inch wide, and outside -of this another strip a quarter of an inch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> -wide, both of which are nailed in position, and -keep the door from slipping out of the groove. -Another screw forms a handle for the door, and -when the car is put together it is not at all apparent -how the door slides. Fig. 6 is a section -cut through the side, above the doorway, and -shows the groove and how the strips are put on.</p> - -<p>For the passenger car the floor is made first—like -Fig. 7—the car floor itself measuring two -inches by four and one-half, with a projection one -inch by five-eighths at each end for a platform. -The sides of the car (Fig. 8), are two inches by -four and a half, with three holes one inch wide by -three-quarters high for Pullman windows. The -ends of the car are like Fig. 9. They are slipped -over the platforms, the space one and one quarter -inch by a half inch forming a doorway and -the lower ends extending below the platform to -form the side of the steps. The end of the platform -is a piece measuring one inch by two inches, -and is nailed in position so that the lower edge -of it is even with the lower edge of the side pieces, -the remainder of it extending above the platform -for a railing. There are two steps on each side -at each end—eight steps in all. The bottom ones -measure a quarter of an inch wide and three-quarters -of an inch long, while the upper ones are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> -the same width, but only a half inch long, for they -have to fit in between the ends of the car, and the -ends of the platform. The roof of the car is like -Fig. 10—a piece two inches by six and one-half -inches with rounded ends, extending well over -the platforms. Both the passenger and baggage -cars have wheels exactly like the coal car. -When these are done the train is coupled, and -away she speeds. “Clear the track there! The -Twentieth Century Limited is just pulling into -Chicago, and she has made the trip from New -York in eighteen hours.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">OUT-DOOR TOYS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THIS set of whittled outdoor toys ought to -please almost any boy. With kite and fish -line time coming soon and the wind blowing a -gale for your weather vane, and the other fellows -out ready to play “cat”—well, let’s see how to -make all these toys.</p> - -<p>The kite stick in Fig. 1 is made from a piece of -pine wood eight inches long, and, roughly cut -out, about three-quarters of an inch square. -This is smoothed down to five-eighths of an inch, -and then you start in to make it round. First -the four corners of the square are trimmed off -evenly for the full length, making it an eight-sided -stick, and then these corners are again -trimmed, until finally the stick is round enough to -be sandpapered smooth. It is better to draw a -five-eighth inch circle on each end of the stick before -you trim it down, so that you can see whether -you are making a true round. When the line for -the bevel is marked around one-eighth of an inch -from the ends, the bevel is cut, the notch is cut<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> -around the middle, and the stick is ready to tie -your kite string to.</p> - -<p>For the reel in Fig. 2 and also the weather vane -in Fig. 7, it is better to select a piece of wood -which is already “dressed”—that is, finished -smooth to the thickness you require, because it is -hard to make a broad surface true with a jack -knife. Cigar boxes are three-sixteenths of an -inch thick, and a piece of one will make a good, -stout reel. In making all of these toys, the pattern -should be drawn on the wood as far as possible -with pencil, scale, and straight edge, before -any cutting is done. The reel should be cut first -into an oblong, two and a quarter inches by four -and a quarter, then the corners are rounded so -that the line will not catch on them, and lastly -the “recessed edge” where the line is to be wound -is made, cutting from each end of the opening toward -the center, and gradually working it down -even.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38a" id="Page_38a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_056.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">(A) WHITTLED WEATHER VANE. (B) KITE STICK; “CAT”; REEL FOR -FISH LINE. (C) “CAT” STICK.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_058.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Kite Stick, Reel, “Cat,” “Cat” Stick, and -Weather Vane.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_059.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Weather Vane.</p> - -<p>There are not many boys who don’t know how -to play “cat.” It requires a good deal of skill, -and if you don’t break anybody’s window or put -out anybody’s eye, it’s a lot of fun. It requires -two boys to play this game. You lay the cat -down flat—as in Fig. 3—and, with the stick (Fig. -4), held by the octagonal end, hit the cat sharply<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> -on one end, and as it flies up bat it forward. It -is up to the other fellow to catch it, and if he does, -it counts you out, and gives him a turn. But if -he doesn’t catch it, you measure with the stick, -end over end from where you stand to where the -cat has fallen, and that counts so many points for -you. Then the other fellow has another chance -to count you out by throwing the cat from where -it fell and trying to hit your stick. If it falls -short or goes beyond, you again measure the distance -with your stick, and that too counts in your -favor.</p> - -<p>The cat is made from a piece of pine four -inches long and an inch square. The center section -is marked off and then a line is drawn exactly -across the middle of each end—not diagonally, -but straight up and down. The sides are -slanted down to this line, like a wedge, and then -the other two sides are slanted to the middle point -at each end. The wood for the stick is twelve -inches long and five-eighths of an inch square, and -is worked down just as the kite stick was, except -that the handle is left eight sided, while the rest -is made round. The octagon and circle which -are shown with parallel diagonal lines on them -are “cross sections” and show what the stick<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> -would look like if it were cut straight through at -that point.</p> - -<p>The weather vane is the hardest toy to make. -Fig. 5 shows three views of one piece of the wheel—a -top view, a front view, and an end view,—just -as though you looked at the piece in front and -then squarely at the top, and then turned it -around and looked at the end. A piece of wood -three-quarters of an inch square by five inches -long is used for this, and two of them are made -and fitted together—making a wheel with four -arms. It is better to cut the section for the joint -first, for the wood is less apt to split before it has -been weakened by any other cutting. This is a -similar cutting to that in the reel, except that the -grain lies in the opposite direction, and the cutting -should be done from the center of the opening -toward each end. Then opposite corners are -slanted down so that the ends of the arms are -thin and aslant to catch the wind, as the end view -shows. The dotted lines are the edges which are -not visible. After the two pieces are fitted together -a two-inch nail is driven through both -and into the end of Fig. 6, which is not beveled. -It should be turned around until it works loosely -and will turn easily in the wind.</p> - -<p>The stick in Fig. 6 is seven and three-eighths<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> -inches long by a half inch square. After the -section three-quarters of an inch long, where the -nail hole is shown, and which remains square, is -marked off, the rest of the stick is made eight -sided. Then the eight-inch bevel shown on the -end is cut, and, for a distance of two and a half -inches from that end, a V-shaped groove is cut -on two opposite sides. This end of the stick is to -slide into the opening in the end of the wing -(Fig. 7). Another two-inch nail joins this piece -to the upright stick (Fig. 8) and forms a pivot -for it to swing around on. The wing is a flat -piece six and a half inches long by two and a -half wide. The curves are laid out with a compass -(R. in the measurements denotes radius) -and the 2<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>″-opening is made as shown in one -end. The little cross-section shows how it is cut -to a pointed edge which slides into the groove in -Fig. 6.</p> - -<p>The upright stick is nine inches long by three-quarters -of an inch square, and is worked down -similarly to the other sticks, except that the end -which is round is tapered from three-quarters to -one-half inch. The “break” in the drawing simply -means that it is longer than is actually shown. -When the windmill is fitted together and put out -where it will catch the wind, a boy will find that -it was well worth making.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DESK SET</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">A DESK set is a great addition to a boy’s -desk. If he has a pen tray he knows where -his pencils and pens are to be found without -rummaging through a tangled mess of top -strings and marble bags and nails. If he puts -away on the bill file that <i>I Owe You</i> that Billy -Smith gave him for a pair of rabbits, it won’t be -all crumpled up and beyond identification when -Billy gets his next month’s allowance. When -you come to think of it, a desk set has a great -many advantages—and then, there’s the fun of -making it.</p> - -<p>The desk set which is shown in the picture -comprises five pieces—an ink well stand, a bill -file, a pen tray, an envelope opener, and a book -rack. It is all, with the exception of the envelope -opener, made of one-eighth-inch basswood.</p> - -<p>For the ink well stand (Fig. 1) use a piece of -wood, four inches square. The two-and-a-half-inch -opening—which is the size of the average -glass ink well—should be cut first, before the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> -corners are weakened by cutting out the half-inch -rounds. After this is done, cut the corners, -and last, the eight-inch bevel. Fig. 2 shows -one of the feet of the ink well. It is shown, by -dotted lines, in position in Fig. 1. The four feet -are glued to the bottom of Fig. 1 and the inside -corners project inside the opening, making four -half-inch squares on which the ink well may rest. -The feet are made from pieces of wood one and -seven-eighths inches square, cut in the shape -shown, and ornamented with a little design in -“chip” carving. This chip carving is ordinarily -done with what is called a skew chisel—that is, -a chisel which is not square at the end, but which -has one point an eighth of an inch or more longer -than the other, so that when it is put into the -wood, one end of the cut will be deep while the -other is barely cut out at all. However, it may -be done with a jack knife, if you are very careful. -In the “motif” shown in Fig. 2, the points where -the three lines from adjoining corners meet are -where the deepest part of the cuts should be. -This is done with the knife held point down and -the thumb on the end of the handle. Then, with -the knife still in the same position in the hand, -you chip out the wood with a sliding cut toward -you, slanting it down to the depth of the cut. It -is a little difficult to describe this without seeing -it done, but if you look at the patterns and the -photographs, and experiment a little on a piece -of wood, you will find it easy.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46a" id="Page_46a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_066.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">(A) FILE. (B) INK WELL. (C) PEN TRAY.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_068.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of an Ink Well Stand, a Bill File and a Pen Tray.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Pen Tray, an Envelope Opener and a Book Rack.</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 show the bill file. Fig. 3 is -made from a three and a quarter-inch square, -cut similarly to the foot of the ink well, and with -the same motif carved on each corner. It -should be remembered in cutting the recessed -edges that the sides running <i>with</i> the grain must -be cut <i>from</i> each end, and the cross-cut sides cut -<i>toward</i> each end. Fig. 4 is cut like Fig. 1, except -that there is no opening in it. It is then -glued to the top of Fig. 3, and a three-inch nail -is driven up through the center.</p> - -<p>Fig. 5 shows one side of the pen tray. It is -made from a piece of wood nine inches long at the -bottom, tapered to seven and three-eighths inches -at the top, and one and seven-eighth inches wide. -The motif for the carving is made by putting together -two of the squares shown in Fig. 2 and -then repeating this again and again. It makes a -very pretty and effective decoration. Fig. 6 is -one of the end pieces, and is decorated in the -same way. Fig. 7 is a cross-section showing the -construction of the pen tray. For this you -should first make two oblongs, seven and three-eighth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> -inches long, one of them being one and -three-eighths, and the other, one and one-half -inches wide. These are fastened together at -right angles, the long one topping over the -shorter, with tiny nails. Then a piece measuring -two inches by one and one-quarter is nailed -to each end, to hold the tray firm. Next, the top -edge all around is beveled—the side edges, so -that the sides (Fig. 5) may be fitted on straight -up and down, and the ends, at such an angle that -they will not interfere in putting on the end pieces -(Fig. 6). Then the sides and ends are glued in -position, and the tray is finished.</p> - -<p>For the envelope opener in Fig. 8, a piece of -gumwood five and a half inches long by a half -inch square is used. For two and a half inches -from the end it is reduced to an octagonal -shape. Then the notches are cut, and the end -of the handle—four sides only, not the entire -eight—beveled. Then the blade is cut, curving -down from the handle, and reducing the -blade to an even thickness of an eighth of an -inch. When this is quite even the end is pointed, -and the entire outside edge of the blade is beveled -down from both sides, to a cutting edge.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50a" id="Page_50a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_072.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">BOOK RACK</p> - -<p>The base of the book rack (Figs. 9 and 10), is -made from two pieces of wood measuring four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> -inches by nine, which are cut as shown, to fit and -slide within each other. It measures thirteen -inches, closed, and sixteen inches, open. A good -way to fasten the pieces together so that they -will slide easily and yet be firm, is with strips -of thin sheet brass, which can be bought very -cheaply. A strip three-quarters of an inch wide -is passed around the rack at D with both pieces -in position, lapped and fastened to D. Another -similar piece is passed around at C and fastened -to C. Then the ends (Fig. 11) are made. This -requires two pieces four inches wide by four and -a half long, with the grain running up and down. -The top is made a little prettier by a semi-circular -curve and a reverse quarter circle at each side of -it. The deep carving is a trifle more elaborate -than on the other things, and must be done carefully -where the cuts all meet at the bottom.</p> - -<p>After measuring and finding the position of the -points “a” and “b” you should use these as centers -from which to make the curves which determine -the outline of your design. The cutting is -done exactly as you did before. When these are -finished they should be fastened on top of the -base, at either end, with little brass hinges on the -inside. A strip of wood four inches long by -three-quarters of an inch wide is placed at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> -lower edge of the end pieces, on the outside, for -added strength, and the screws fastening the -hinges will hold it in place.</p> - -<p>This completes the actual making of the desk -set. It may be sandpapered, or it may be varnished, -or, if you are fortunate enough to have a -mission desk, it may be stained to match. In any -case it is worth having.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">WILD ANIMALS YOU CAN MAKE</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">WITH a circus folder or animal book for a -copy, a few old cigar boxes, and a jack -knife, a very lively and life-like menagerie can -be made.</p> - -<p>Cut the cigar boxes apart, and sandpaper the -pieces very smooth. Then take a pencil and -sketch as well as you can the animals in the pictures—at -least the bodies of them, for the legs -are to be attached afterward, so that they can -stand and “do things.”</p> - -<p>The cutting must be done very, very carefully, -for the outlines make so many different angles -with the grain of the wood. It is not in the least -like straight cutting with the grain, or even -straight cross-cutting, and the wood has an irritating -habit of splitting off some vital part of -the animal’s anatomy.</p> - -<p>It is impossible to make the tails out of wood, -so they are made of heavy string, glued in place. -For the monkey, you can make a tail of wire, so -that he can swing by it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Patterns of Hippo and Tiger.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54a" id="Page_54a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_078.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS<br /> -Giraffe, Camel</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_080.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Patterns of Monkey and Giraffe.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_081.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Patterns of Bear and Lion.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56a" id="Page_56a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS<br /> -Bear, Lion, “Darwin”</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>Make the legs of the animals separately and -fasten them on to the bodies with tiny nails. -Place the two fore legs or two hind legs in position -on either side of the body piece, and drive -through them a short wire nail, a very little -longer than is necessary to go through the three -thicknesses of wood. Then rest the head of the -nail on a piece of iron, and hammer the point, -forming a little rivet to pivot the legs. The feet -must also be made separately, and fastened on in -the same way, so that, whatever position the legs -are in, the feet will remain level.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A SET OF MISSION FURNITURE</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">A VERY attractive set of furniture suitable -for a doll’s nursery, may be whittled from -pieces of old cigar boxes. It consists of four -pieces—a “Craftsman” bed, a chair, a table, and -a chest of drawers.</p> - -<p>For the head of the bed take a piece of wood -four inches square, and, placing it with the grain -of the wood running up and down, mark it out -like Fig. 1. As a general rule, the grain of the -wood should lie with the longest dimension, but -in all the upright pieces of this set it must run up -and down. Outline first the “recessed edge,” -which forms the legs of the bed, scoring it lightly -with the point of the knife. Then cutting a little -bit out at a time, and working from the center -toward each end, bring it down to the line. The -two openings, an eighth of an inch by a half inch, -for the joints, must be cut with the point of the -knife—the ends first, then the sides, and lastly -the wood is chipped out, and the opening is -evened up. The foot of the bed is identical with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> -the head except that is three inches high instead -of four.</p> - -<p>Next come the side pieces—two pieces seven -inches long and one inch wide, cut like Fig. 2. -The half-inch ends slide through the openings in -the head and foot of the bed, and fasten with little -wedge-shaped pegs like Fig. 5. Inside each -of these side pieces, and “flush” with the bottom -edge, glue a strip cut like Fig. 3, and fit in five -little slats three and three-eighths inches long by -a half inch wide (Fig. 4). Then, to complete it -and make it look as much like a Craftsman bed as -possible, paste on the head a panel of light brown -wrapping paper, on which are four little conventional -kittens, painted in Van Dyke brown.</p> - -<p>The top of the table (Fig. 6) is a piece four -inches square. The end pieces (Fig. 7) are cut -similarly to the head and foot of the bed, with the -same recessed edge and the same openings, varying -only in the outside dimensions. The sides -too (Fig. 8), are similar to the sides of the bed, -except that they are of course, much shorter. -Slip them through the openings in the end pieces, -fasten them with four little pegs, glue the top on, -and the table is done.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60a" id="Page_60a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">DOLLS’ CHAIR AND TABLE, WHITTLED IN MISSION STYLE</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a “Craftsman” Bed, a Table and a Chair.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Chair and a Chest of Drawers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>The chair is built on the same general lines as -the table and bed. The chair back (Fig. 9) measures -two and a quarter inches wide by three and -one-half inches high, while the front upright -piece is exactly similar but only an inch and one-half -high—just high enough for dolly to swing -her feet comfortably. When these and the side -pieces (Fig. 10) are done and put together, glue -on a piece one and five-eighths inches by two and -a quarter (Fig. 11) for the seat.</p> - -<p>The construction of the chest of drawers is a -little more elaborate. Make first two side pieces -like Fig 12. They measure two and a quarter -inches wide by three and one-half high, and have -a recessed edge a quarter of an inch deep at the -bottom to form feet, and three openings in each -side for the partitions between the drawers. -There are one deep drawer at the top, and two -shallower ones below it. Make three pieces like -Fig. 13, four inches long by one and three-quarters -wide. The little square and piece for the -joint are not exactly in the middle, and the longer -space goes toward the back, but is intended to -leave a little open space of a half inch at the back.</p> - -<p>Next make three pieces for the fronts of the -drawers (Fig. 14), two of them five-eighths of -an inch wide, and one measuring an inch and a -quarter. In each of these make two holes for the -knobs. The drawers themselves (Fig. 15) are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> -made of light weight pasteboard. The bottom -dimensions remain the same of course for all—two -and three-quarter inches by two—but the -depths of the sides must be one and one-quarter -inches for the wider, and five-eighths of an inch -for the narrower ones. When these are cut out, -fold them on the dotted lines to form a box, with -the sides which lap over each other at the front. -The knobs of the drawers are made of large -beads. Put a piece of string through each bead, -and then push the two ends of string through the -hole in the front of the drawer, and through a -corresponding hole in the pasteboard drawer -itself. Then tie the two ends of string from the -right-hand knob to the two pieces from the left-hand -knob in a firm square knot, accomplishing -the triple purpose of holding the knobs in position, -fastening the front piece on to the drawer, -and holding the drawer in shape. An oblong -piece of wood two and a quarter inches by three -and a quarter (Fig. 16) makes the top, and another -four inches by three and a quarter forms -the back.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64a" id="Page_64a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_094a.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">DOLLS’ WHITTLED CHEST OF DRAWERS</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_094b.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">WHITTLED DOLLS’ BED</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">TOYS THAT HIDE IN THE WOOD BOX</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THE farm barn with its loft hung with cobwebs -and the great hay mows, and the farm -wagons to scramble out and in is surely a delight -to the country boy; but if one corner of the barn -has a big pile of clean, smooth blocks and sticks -of kindling wood, the charm of the place will be -redoubled.</p> - -<p>A glance, only, at a heap of ordinary, everyday -kindling wood will suggest all sorts of plays -to the resourceful boy. With the aid of a few -simple tools, a hammer, a light saw, and some -wire nails, the pieces of wood may be changed -into crude, but realistic toys that will give the -little folks quite as much pleasure as any to be -found in a toy shop.</p> - -<p>Look, first, at the building possibilities of a -pile of kindling wood. The long, straight sticks -may be balanced on the barn floor to represent -a regiment of soldiers. With penciled faces, -and soldier caps they make very fine little men; -and if there are two opposing armies, a most exciting -sham battle may be carried on with horse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> -chestnuts and green apples for ammunition, and -a prize for the general whose kindling-wood -forces stand up the longest.</p> - -<p>A miniature pig pen may be built by piling up -kindling-wood sticks in log-cabin fashion. The -sticks selected for the pen should be, as nearly -as possible, of the same length. Two sticks -should be laid parallel. These are then connected -by laying other sticks across their ends. -The boy should continue building in this manner -until the pig pen is of a good height. A -very fine, fat pig may be made of a small cucumber, -having twigs stuck into his body for legs, -one of the vine tendrils for a curly tail and melon -seeds for ears.</p> - -<p>A log house is constructed by building a foundation -similar to the pig pen. The roof is -formed by laying a row of sticks, quite close together, -across the top. A family of little clothes -pin dolls may live most comfortably in a kindling -wood house.</p> - -<p>In front of the house there should be a strong, -rail fence to protect the inmates from any Indians -who may come in while the builder is away. -To build a Virginia rail fence, two sticks of -kindling wood should be crossed in the shape of -a letter V. A third stick is added at a similar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> -angle with the second stick. This form of building -is continued until the fence is of the required -length. Going back to the first stick, a second -layer of sticks is started on top of the first layer; -and the fence may be built as high as one wishes -by the addition of a third and a fourth layer.</p> - -<p>There are ever so many playthings that can -be built from the wood found in the wood pile. -A boy who is clever with his jack knife will be -able to make a set of ten pins from sticks of -kindling wood by carving little round heads at -the ends of the sticks. Very straight bits of -wood which will balance well should be chosen -for the ten pins. He can also carve quaint -wooden dolls for the little sister.</p> - -<p>The accompanying illustration shows a toy -barnyard that was made by a group of children. -Their only tools were a couple of hammers, a toy -saw, some nails and a jack knife. The only materials -used were found in the wood pile in the -wood-shed.</p> - -<p>The barnyard fence is constructed from lath. -Long strips are used for the bars of the fence. -The fence posts are bits of lath, also, carved in -six-inch lengths, pointed at the top with a knife, -and nailed to the longer strips. Bits of leather -are tacked in place for the gate hinges. Bits of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> -kindling wood split into narrow sections are -nailed together for the pig pen and the cow shed. -Some old wooden boxes are used for the farm -wagon and the wheelbarrow, the curved edges of -the wheelbarrow being made with a jack knife. -The box cover is used as wheel material, two -circles being cut out of the soft wood with a jack -knife and fastened to the body of the wagon with -dowel sticks. Another box is mounted on a -standard of lath and forms a very realistic pigeon -house. The chicken coops are little wood -squares nailed together at an angle of 90ฐ with -bits of lath fastened across the front. With the -addition of a rude barn made from scraps of -wood, a dog house—which is only a small edition -of the barn—and a cattle shed, the farmyard -is complete—a crude but unfailing source of -amusement for many rainy days.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68a" id="Page_68a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_100.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">TOY BARNYARD MADE OF KINDLING WOOD</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_102.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Sled, a Chicken Coop and a Table.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Cart.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>One of the simplest toys to make of wood basket -scraps is a little play sled. For this you will -need three oblong pieces of wood—one of them -(Fig. 1) measuring four inches wide by seven -inches long, and the other two (Fig. 2) measuring -two and a half inches wide by nine and one-half -inches long. Some pieces of an old packing -box about a half inch thick will do very nicely for -these. Mark the outlines first with a pencil; then -cut them out with the saw, and “true them up” -with a knife—that is, take off the little roughnesses -that the saw has left, and make the edges -perfectly straight and square. Next the two long -side pieces which you have made must be shaped. -Measure off on the lower edge (with the piece -standing in position as though it were on the -sled), two inches from the front end. Connect -this by a line with the upper front corner, and -cut it. Then round off the lower end of this cut -so that it curves into the bottom. Now make a -nail hole near the front end of each side piece for -a string to go through, nail the side pieces to the -other oblong which you made for the top, and the -little sled is done.</p> - -<p>Another very simple toy to make of this material -is a little chicken coop. This is made of -one square piece of wood and another piece which -is almost square. The first piece (Fig. 3) measures -seven inches each way, and the other one -(Fig. 4) measures seven inches in one direction, -and in the other direction seven inches less the -thickness of the wood. This is because one piece -laps over the end of the other, and the end of the -first piece forms part of the other side of the -coop. When these pieces are cut and made perfectly -square and true, lap the longer piece over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> -the end of the shorter so that it will be just even -with the surface, and nail in position. For the -slats (Fig. 5) cut some strips an inch wide and -thinner than the sides of the coop. Lath is good -if you have it. Two of these strips are ten inches -long, two are seven inches, and two are four -inches. The longest ones are nailed across the -open sides of the coop, one on each side, an inch -above the bottom. The middle-sized ones are -nailed two inches above these, and the shortest -ones two inches higher. Then the ends of these -strips are sawed off almost even with the coop.</p> - -<p>A little table may be made from one block of -wood six inches square, and four cylinders three -and a half inches long. For the table top (Fig. -6) select a piece of wood about an inch thick. -Make this true, and smooth the top with sandpaper. -Then mark on the under side a square -which is four inches on a side, and exactly an -inch away from each side of the table top. At -the corner of this inside square are to be made the -holes for the table legs. For these holes you will -have to use a bit and brace, and make the holes -one inch in diameter and a half inch deep. If -you haven’t a bit and brace, you can, with a little -more trouble, whittle out the holes. For the -table legs (Fig. 7) take four pieces of wood one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> -inch square and three and one-half inches long. -By whittling off each long corner edge you can -make these from square prisms into octagonal, or -eight-sided prisms. Then keep shaving off these -corner-edges until the prisms are so many-sided -that they are practically round. Smooth them -with sandpaper, and glue in place in the holes in -the under side of the table top.</p> - -<p>A strong little cart may be made almost as -easily as these other wood toys. Cut from -some pieces of wood three quarters of an inch -thick, two side pieces (Fig. 8) measuring three -inches by ten inches, two end pieces (Fig. -9) three inches by five inches, and one bottom -piece (Fig. 10) five inches by eleven and a half -inches. In the center of one of the end pieces -make a nail hole for the string to go through. -Nail the sides and ends together, lapping the end -pieces over the ends of the side pieces. Then -nail the bottom piece on. For the shafts of the -wheels (Fig. 11) take two pieces of wood nine -inches long and one inch square. For a space -of two inches in from each end make the shafts -cylindrical just as you did the table legs, leaving -the center portion, which is five inches long, -square. Nail these shafts to the bottom of the -cart at points two and a half inches from each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> -end. Next cut from 1 inch-thick wood four -wheels (Fig. 12), three and a half inches in diameter. -These may be cut out roughly with a saw, -and worked down to the marked line with the -knife. Then cut in the center of each of these -wheels a hole about one and one-sixteenth inches -in diameter—enough larger than the shaft so that -the wheels will turn easily. Slip the wheels in -place, and drive into the shaft from opposite sides, -outside of each wheel, two small finishing nails. -These are to keep the wheels in place, and must -be driven in carefully so as not to split the shafts.</p> - -<p>These are all attractive wood basket toys to -make, and besides this, each one of them may be -adapted, by enlarging, for some real use. The -sled, with the addition of iron strips for runners, -may be really used; or by using two sleds -and an extra board fastened to both so that -they will turn, it may be made into a “bob-sled” -or “double.” The chicken coop, enlarged, will -comfortably accommodate the mother hen and -her brood of chicks which are the beginning of -every boy’s first poultry venture. The little table -may grow into a flower stand, and the cart, made -larger and stronger, will rival any shop-bought -express wagon for durability and comfort.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74a" id="Page_74a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_108.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">A SET OF DOLLS’ FURNITURE MADE BY GLUEING TOGETHER BLOCKS OF KINDLING WOOD</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">THE WONDERFUL DODO BIRD</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">A VERY long, long time ago, in the far off -country of Switzerland, which is the land -of high mountains and goats and tourists, there -was a wonderful bird. Nobody ever saw him -near by, for he lived in a forest of alpenstocks, -and he had the longest kind of legs, so that no -matter how fast the tourists pulled up the alpenstocks, -or how hard they tried to catch him, he always -got away. The only way any one could see -him was to watch the mountain tops, for when the -weather was pleasant, he would climb up and -stand there outlined clearly against the sky, his -long legs making him taller than anything around -him, and he would bob up and down—first his -head and then his tail, and then his head again—and -wave his plume and call, “Do-do, do-do.”</p> - -<p>The peasants made little dodo birds whittled -out of wood, and sold them to the tourists, and -because a real dodo bird was only hatched once -in a blue moon, and there are no more blue -moons, why, the ones the peasants made are the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> -only dodo birds left. And this is how they made -them.</p> - -<p>The foundation of the bird’s body (Fig. 1) is -a chunky piece of wood an inch and a half square -by three inches long. On each end of this is -marked a circle—an inch and a half in diameter, -which makes it just touch each edge. Then by -cutting from circle to circle, as nearly straight as -possible, the wood is made into a three-inch-high -cylinder. Next one whole end is rounded off like -the large end of an egg. The next steps in making -the dodo bird are not quite as simple. A -straight line is drawn all the way around the -body, from end to end, which divides it into two -equal parts. At the end of the line which represents -the middle of the bird’s back is measured -off a space a quarter of an inch on either side. -This makes a half-inch space which is the tip of -his tail, and from these points lines are drawn on -the flat end surface, to complete the four-sided -figure shown in the end view of Fig. 1, which is -the whole end of his tail. It tapers from a half -inch at the top to about a quarter inch at the bottom, -and when it is all finished, the bottom is -slanted in a trifle. Next the bottom part is whittled -up in a curve which meets the lower end of -the tail, and the rest of the body is whittled in -the shape shown in the side view of Fig. 1. -This part can’t be done by lines because it is a -gradual curve all over. When this is done two -flat slanting surfaces are whittled off for the -sides of the tail.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_112.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Dodo Bird.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>Now you are ready to make the grooves for -the head and tail feathers to go in. Part of the -lower center line has been whittled off and will -have to be replaced. Then, measuring three-sixteenths -of an inch on each side of this line, -make parallel lines which shall extend around the -lower part of the body from the end of the tail to -a point on the front end just a quarter of an inch -below the top. A space a half inch wide is left -in the middle of the bottom for the legs to fasten -on, and the rest is to be made into the grooves -as shown on the pattern. The easiest way to do -this is to cut as far in as possible, on the parallel -lines which you have drawn, with a small saw. -Then chip the wood out with a small chisel, and, -with the chisel held bevel side down, round out -the bottoms of the grooves. If you haven’t such -a chisel though, you can manage with a knife.</p> - -<p>When the body is done, the rest is easier. Fig. -2 shows the head, made from a piece of wood two -and a half inches long by one and one-eighth wide -and a quarter inch thick. The outline is marked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> -and whittled into shape, and the beak is slanted -down to a point. One quarter of an inch from -the end of the neck a hole is made for pivoting, -the eyes are marked in with a pencil, and three -rows of marks are made across the neck with a -little pattern marking wheel. These may also be -made around the body and will add to the beauty -of the dodo bird. His plume is made of a soft, -downy chicken feather, stuck into a hole in the -top of his head and glued in place.</p> - -<p>The tail feather (Fig. 3) is shaped like the -feathered end of an arrow. The “feathered” -part is one inch wide by two and a half long, and -another inch in length forms the pivoting part. -This end is a quarter inch wide and five-sixteenths -thick, and the “feathers” are cut in from -each side with a slanting cut as shown in the -drawing. The bottom is left perfectly level, but -the top is slanted down, with three flat cuts, to -a sharp edge at the end. A hole is made from -side to side, a quarter of an inch back from the -small end, for pivoting. Two small nails driven -through the body, with the head and tail feathers -in position, form the pivots. They must be -driven carefully so as not to split the wood, and -must be placed so that the head and tail feathers -will work up and down very freely.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>The legs (Fig. 4) are pieces of wood three -and a half inches long, a half inch wide, and a -quarter of an inch thick. They are first whittled -in an elliptical shape. Then the lower part, for a -space of two and a quarter inches is tapered back -from the front to give an appearance of standing -very straight. At the upper end, for a quarter -of an inch from the top, half of the wood is -cut away, and the remaining part is fitted into -holes cut in the body, three quarters of an inch -apart, and glued.</p> - -<p>The standard for the dodo (Fig. 5) is made -like a small wooden vise. It is a flat piece of -wood three and a half inches long by two inches -wide and three quarters of an inch thick. One -end is beveled slightly, and one end of the top is -curved down slightly.</p> - -<p>In the remaining flat surface on the top two -holes are whittled out into which the dodo’s feet -are to be glued. Then a space two inches long -and one inch wide is cut out to form the jaws of -the vise. To tighten the vise there must be some -sort of a screw through the lower jaw. A -wooden thumb screw is not easy to get, so the -best plan is to get a bolt about three eighths of an -inch in diameter. Then cut a hole almost as -large in your wood, and screw the bolt in, forcing -it to cut its own “thread” in the soft wood.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80a" id="Page_80a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_116.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">THE DODO BIRD</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>Fig. 6 is the weight which makes the dodo -work. It is a piece of wood two and a quarter -inches high by an inch and seven-eighths square. -This is made into a cylinder and rounded at one -end precisely as you did with the body. Then -a circle is marked around it a quarter of an inch -back from the flat end, and this end is slightly -rounded off. It may be decorated or not, as you -choose.</p> - -<p>Now you are ready to make the dodo bird -work. Take two pieces of string—stout, but not -too heavy—about twelve inches long. Fasten an -end of one of them—with a tiny wedge and some -glue—into the end of the dodo’s neck, and the -other into the small end of the tail. Then bring -the two pieces together and knot them about an -inch from the other end. Fasten these two ends -into the top of the weight just as you did the -single ends.</p> - -<p>Now fasten the vise securely on a shelf somewhere, -and swing the weight to and fro like the -pendulum of a clock. The dodo will bob first his -head and then his tail and then his head again, -and you can almost hear him calling “Do-do”<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> -way off on the mountain there. He’s a source -of never-ending fun, boys, and besides playing -with him yourself, you can just watch and see -how few grown-ups can go by him and resist -swinging the pendulum.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">A FLEET OF TOY BOATS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">WHO remembers the mill pond down at the -farm, clean, and high, with trees all about—a -capital place for sailing boats? It is so small -that, directly a toy ship is started on its voyage, -you can run around the other side and meet her.</p> - -<p>There is the trout brook, too, down in the -woods, where everything is cool and still. There -isn’t a sound as you sit on the bank save when a -mouse comes rustling along, pushing his way -through the leaves with his queer little pointed -nose, or a hedgehog plods by, blind and deaf, -never seeing you at all.</p> - -<p>If you should launch a toy boat in the brook, -where do you suppose it would sail to? You will -follow it a little way. Sometimes it will get -caught in the ferns, or it may lie for a minute, -stranded, on a rock, or it will overturn as it -shoots the rapids. You start it on again with -the long pole you cut from the willow tree, but -presently the boat will sail away, out of a child’s -sight, down the brook.</p> - -<p>Perhaps it will pick up a crew of little brownie<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> -sailor men. Perhaps it will stop somewhere to -load a cargo of butterfly’s gowns. You will lose -sight of it though. That is what always happens -to one’s toy ships.</p> - -<p>A boy can make himself a whole fleet of toy -boats to play with in the mill pond and the trout -brook. If one of them does go sailing away to -Fairyland—why, what does it matter with all the -rest of the fleet just tugging away at their ropes, -waiting to be launched?</p> - -<p>The little boats are the nicest of all, because -one may have so many of them. Out in the -woods there are some of last year’s walnuts lying -on the ground. Split one in half with a jack-knife, -and take out all the meat, leaving the inside -smooth and white. Glue a scrap of paper -to a toothpick, and fasten this little mast to the -inside of the half walnut shell with a drop of -glue. There is a real fairy craft, fit for a dragon -fly to ride in. Just watch it toss and float and -sail away on the make-believe waves.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84a" id="Page_84a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_122a.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">A CORK RAFT</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_122b.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">A CORK SAIL BOAT</p> - -<p>There are so many eggs in the barn, you can -surely have one. Do you know how to blow an -egg? Make a tiny hole with a pin in each end, -then, by blowing steadily into one end, the contents -of the egg may be emptied out of the other. -You will be able to cut the egg shell lengthwise,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> -now, with your jack-knife. If you have some -paper strips you can bind the edges of the egg -boat to make it a trifle stronger. Glue two paper -seats across the top and add a pair of oars made -of toothpicks. A tiny paper doll will enjoy a -ride in the egg-shell boat.</p> - -<p>Out in the barn where you found the egg, -there is a whole big bin full of corn cobs. Such -light, clean playthings they are! They will make -a stout little raft to float about in the mill pond. -You will need to select eight corn cobs, all of the -same size and length. Lay them side by side on -the barn floor. Then split up an old berry basket, -and cut two or more of the thin strips of -wood from the side exactly as long as the raft is -to be wide, lay these strips of wood across the -corn cobs and nail them in place with tacks. The -corn-cob raft is done. It is so light that it can be -loaded with quite a cargo, two or three rubber -dolls who do not mind the water, or a toy horse, -or a rubber pig. Then, if the current is right, it -will float way across the mill pond, and the toys -can land on the other side.</p> - -<p>Corks make a fine raft, too, and such a light -one! A cork raft will almost never sink. You -must collect corks for quite a while before you -have enough for the raft. They will need to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> -of just the same width and length. Glue five or -six corks together by their ends to form a little -cork log. Make a number of these logs, and -then fasten them together as you fastened the -corn-cob raft. Another way of making the cork -raft is to run the corks on a bit of fine wire and -the logs may all be wired together in the same -way.</p> - -<p>A very large, flat cork, such as mother puts in -her pickle jars, will make a fine little sail boat. -All that it needs is a toothpick mast and a white -cambric or paper sail glued on.</p> - -<p>A paper row boat is very easy to make. -Choose an oblong of heavy paper that will not -soak with the water quickly. Fold a cocked -soldier’s hat. Every boy knows how to do that. -Hold the cocked hat in the middle of each side -and pull it out into a square. Bend back the two -open sides to form another cocked hat, but -smaller than the first one. Pull this out, also, -into a square. Then, if you pull hard on the two -closed corners, the paper will open into a fine little -row boat. You can fold so many of these -paper boats that a new one may be launched as -fast as the old one sinks.</p> - -<p>A boy who is clever with his jack-knife will be -able to make a stout little sail boat from a piece<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> -of an old egg crate, or the side of a cigar box. -The wood must be close grained and light—that -is the first essential. Cut the boat, pointed at -one end, and rub it smooth with a piece of sandpaper. -Glue a meat skewer to the center for the -mast, and hoist a little sail. A hole may be bored -in the end of the sail boat, and a long string tied -in will allow you to run along the edge of the -brook and keep this little craft from sailing -away.</p> - -<p>There are other boats which will want to join -this toyland fleet. Peanut shells may have very -tiny paper sails pinned to the ends. A race between -two rival peanut boats will be great fun.</p> - -<p>A cigar box boat may have squares cut from -the sides with a knife for oar locks; with meat -skewer oars, it will make a very creditable scow, -flat-bottomed, and perfectly safe for any doll to -go clamming in.</p> - -<p>Clam shells may have paper sails fastened on -with glue, and any kind of flat shell loves to go -sailing away by itself on the water.</p> - -<p>A strong square of birch bark may be folded -and cut rounding at the ends to resemble a canoe. -The ends are then sewed with a needle threaded -with strands of sweet grass or stout cotton, making -a tiny Indian craft. If you wish the canoe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> -to be perfectly water tight, it can be lined with -waxed paper.</p> - -<p>There will be fun for all summer long for the -boy who makes and sails his own fleet of toy -boats.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88a" id="Page_88a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_128.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">WHITTLED TOY SAIL BOAT</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A PLAY TENT</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">HAVING a tent out in the garden or on the -lawn during the summer vacation makes -each long, happy day twice as long, and just twice -as happy. A boy can play that he is an Indian, -or a first settler, or a cave dweller, or even an old -story book king if he has even the crudest kind -of a roof over his head and some sort of a play -shelter beneath which he can live and play, and -dream all manner of delightful things.</p> - -<p>Of course the nicest tent of all is one from a -real tent factory made of canvas and having -staples and pegs to fasten it to the ground, but -such a tent costs ever so much money, and not -every mother and father can afford to buy it. -One family of children went without fireworks -on Fourth of July that they might save the money -which they would have, otherwise, burned up and -with it they bought themselves a tent which lasted -much longer than the smoke and noise of the fireworks -would have.</p> - -<p>There is, though, a very fine tent indeed, and -one that will give a group of boys quite as much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> -pleasure as any manufactured one. This is the -home-made tent. It is the tent that seems to -really belong to you because it is a sort of a makeshift -and you make it with your own hands. -There are ever so many ways of making your -own tent, all of them simple and quite easy for -one to follow.</p> - -<p>One very strong and serviceable tent has a -foundation of straight, young birch trees or saplings -cut in the early spring and used for tent -poles. Holes should be dug, and the poles set -in the ground a quarter their length that no summer -wind storm can uproot them. Around each -pole, the earth is then pounded down, and the tops -of the poles, six or eight in number, should be -lashed together with cord. A couple of old army -blankets may be stitched together to make a covering -for this tent. A hole is cut in the center -and the covering is slipped over the supports and -tied to the base of each pole. There will be -enough extra blanket to make a flap in the front -of the tent to act as a door. If there is a summer -shower when the children are playing in this -blanket tent they may pull the flap tight shut, and -just snuggle inside, listening to the raindrops -that do not soak through the blanket covering -one bit.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>A second home-made tent has a foundation of -bean poles or clothes poles for supports. These -are sunk in the ground and fastened together at -the top as were the saplings used for the blanket -tent. The covering, however, is of brown denim. -Twelve yards will make a very good-sized tent. -The lengths are cut to fit the poles used as tent -supports; they are pointed at the top, and -stitched together. Tape sewed at the top, center, -and base of each seam, on the inside, may be -tied around the poles and fasten the covering to -the props. This tent may be decorated in such a -way that it will make a real patch of color on the -lawn or in the back yard, and will have the appearance -of an Indian’s wigwam. Red and -green, or yellow denim is used for the decorations. -Small conventionalized trees, moons, -stars, leaves, or any preferred designs are cut -from the colored cloth and stitched to the brown -covering. Another way of decorating the denim -tent is to paint pictures on it with stencil colors, -using stencil patterns of Indians, animals, or -flowers. These colors are “fast” and the rain -will not wash them off as is apt to happen in the -case of designs applied with colored cloth.</p> - -<p>A flower tent is a new sort of playhouse and is -quite delightful in sunshiny weather. When it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> -rains you can watch your tent grow from the -house windows. It will be wise to select a fence -corner, where a row of castor beans will sprout -in a night almost to help form the back of the -tent. Between these castor plants, there may be -some quick-growing vine planted; mock orange, -morning glory, or moon flower. As the seeds -sprout and the vines begin to grow, they should -be twined upon strings which extend up the -fence and across the top between the two sides of -the fence, forming the tent roof. Before summer -is over, this roof will be a thick one as the -vines increase their leaves and the leaves themselves -grow larger and more lavish of their -shade. After a while they will hang over the -front of the tent helping to form a third side, -and when the tent bursts into blossom the children -who live inside it will feel almost as if they -were in fairyland.</p> - -<p>These tents all take time to make, but there are -other home-made tents that can spring up in a -day in the garden. A very little boy can set up -grandfather’s big green umbrella for a tent and -have a pleasant time sitting under it. The handle -can be buried a little way in the ground and -there will be plenty of room beneath its delightful -green shade for a boy and a picture book, or a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> -girl and her doll. To make this umbrella tent -still more snug and sheltering, grandmother’s -shawl can be draped around it, or a rug may be -pinned to the edges to form the back and walls.</p> - -<p>Two boys who live next door to each other and -are the friendliest of neighbors can make a tent -that they can share. The village carpenter will -furnish four stout pine posts a little taller than the -fence between the boys’ homes is high. Two of -these posts are set up on one side of the fence -about eight feet from the fence itself, and two on -the other side in just the same position. The -ticking cover of an old feather bed may be cut -down to the right size, and nailed to the posts for -a roof. A couple of old sails may be cut into -straight curtains for the sides of the tent, with -strips of lath in the hem so that they can be rolled -up in pleasant weather. The tent is very cozy -when it is finished, and before the summer is -over nearly every boy in town will have been up -to visit these boys in their little two-room tent.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN TOPS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">SOME toys don’t know how to play. They -just stand still and wait for a child to carry -them around the garden or drag them by their -strings across the nursery floor. They have no -proper play spirit, these lazy toys, but that isn’t -the case with a top. Given a fair chance, just a -fine, long string and a smooth sidewalk—why, a -top will play with a child all day long. It will -twirl and whirl, never stopping to rest for long, -and singing all the time its quaint little humming -song to keep tune and time with its spinning.</p> - -<p>You can buy a top for a penny at the toy shop, -but it is just a plain, ordinary sort of wooden top -exactly like all the other tops. How would you -like to make your own tops? It will be the -easiest task in the world to do this, and a whole -lot of fun, too. The materials for home-made -tops grow out of doors and are lying close at hand -at home, in the wood-shed, or in the cellar.</p> - -<p>Sharpen your jack-knife, and you may start -out top hunting, at once.</p> - -<p>A beet makes a queer little top that will spin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> -gayly for a day, and if it breaks on the sidewalk -or curbing, why you may pull up another top -from the beet patch in the garden. The picture -shows you a beet top that looks like a very own -cousin to a wooden top because it is just the same -shape, and the same size. There should be a -pointed peg whittled from a scrap of soft kindling -wood and stuck in the pointed end of the beet. -The beet top is then wound with a string that has -a small button mold or a little china button on -the end and when you throw it as you do an ordinary -wooden peg top, it will spin finely. A small -turnip will make a top, too, if it has a whittled -peg, and a little radish makes a fine top, save that -it is too small to be wound up and should have a -bit of toothpick stuck in opposite the peg to twirl -it by.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96a" id="Page_96a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_138.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">WHITTLED CLOWN TOP</p> - -<p>The woods as well as the garden are full of -tops. Let us go out top gathering under the nut -trees some fine, frosty morning, taking the heroic -little jack-knife, too, to help finish the tops. Fat -acorns make splendid tops. A bit of twig should -be whittled down to the right size and stuck in the -flat end of the acorn by which to spin it. Every -acorn has a fine point upon which to spin and a -half dozen of these gay little acorn tops may be -set spinning at once by a group of children in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> -top contest to see which will keep twirling longest. -Horse chestnuts may be used for tops, too, if a -child selects the very round, flat kind of nut. -Horse chestnuts gathered when they first fall -from the tree are soft and easily bored with an -awl or darning needle, or the smallest blade of a -jack-knife. A hole should be made exactly in the -center of the nut and a perfectly straight piece -of twig inserted, pointed at one end and extending -a half inch above the horse chestnut at the -top to hold it by. Another way to make a horse -chestnut top is to cut the nut in half, crosswise, -and insert halves of toothpicks in each section, -making two tops instead of one.</p> - -<p>When the shut-in days come in the winter and -it is too late to pick your tops out in the garden -or gather them in the woods, it will be ever so -much fun to see how many tops you can make of -the materials you are able to find at home. The -wood that is used in a cigar box is soft and easily -whittled, and just one box will furnish material -for countless tops. The queer little circus clown -in the picture spins on the tips of his toes if a -top string is wound about the long peg protruding -from the top of his head. He is not one bit -difficult to make. The outline of a clown in a -picture book is drawn on a sheet of tracing paper<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> -with a soft pencil and then transferred to a piece -of the soft wood. If a boy has a jig saw it will -be very easy to cut the little outlined clown in a -jiffy, but it can be done in almost as short a time -with a sharp jack-knife. When the clown is cut, -his features are drawn in with charcoal or a soft -pencil. If you spin him hard enough, he will rise -right up off the ground once in a while and then -settle down again and go on spinning. If a -child has a book of brownies he can make a -brownie top in the same way that the clown top -was made. The brownie will spin on the tips of -his little pointed toes.</p> - -<p>The top in the picture that has a series of -circles of different sizes will be ever so easy to -make. The circles, each a half inch smaller than -the one which is to be above it, are drawn on soft -wood, and are then cut out with a jack-knife. A -hole is cut in the center of each circle and they -are fitted on a piece of wooden meat skewer, the -point of the meat skewer forming the spinning -end of the top. With a box of water color -paints the circular disks of the tops are then -painted in gay contrasting colors and the effect -will be charming when the little top begins to -spin.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98a" id="Page_98a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_142.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">(A) BEET TOP. (B) TOP MADE OF GRADUATED DISKS. -(C) BUTTON MOLD TOP.</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>Button molds make tops. The big wooden -molds that the tailor uses for coats are best to -make into tops. The hole in the center must be -enlarged to admit of a sharpened end of a meat -skewer being inserted. These button mold tops -may be painted, too, and a splendid game can be -played with them on the nursery table. Two -stakes may be set up—the stakes from a parlor -croquet set will do nicely—at the opposite ends of -the table. The boys playing the game then -choose colors and spin their button mold tops, -whipping them with tiny whips made of meat -skewers and colored twine, and trying to see -whose top will make the distance between stakes -first at the one spinning.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">THE FARM THE SCISSORS BUILT</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">IT will be almost as fine as a real farm when it -is finished and ever so much easier to make, -because one will not need any boards, or tools, or -huge nails to use in putting it together.</p> - -<p>What do you suppose the barn is made of? -Why, just a big piece of heavy wrapping paper -that some one has brought to the house, and then -has dropped on the hall table to be thrown away -because it does not seem to be of any use now its -wrapping days are over.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_147.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Folding for Barn.</p> - -<p>First, one should cut the heavy wrapping paper -into a large square. Then fold the square into -sixteen small squares like the folding indicated in -the diagram. Some of the lines in the diagram -are dotted. Those show how the square is folded -to make the little squares. Some of the lines are -solid, heavy lines. Those are the lines to be cut. -Make these cuts very carefully with scissors. -There will be three cuts, each one square long -and one square apart on two opposite sides of the -paper. The two middle squares which are -marked “a” in the diagram should be superimposed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> -That is a very, very long word, is it not? -It means something very simple, though. These -two squares are laid, one on top of the other, and -are glued into place. Next, the squares marked -“b” are brought together and their edges are -glued. Then—one end of the wrapping paper -barn is finished. Glue the squares at the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> -end of the barn in the same way, and cut a wide -barn door. The door is made by cutting on a -vertical crease on one side of the house, making -two other cuts at right angles with the first one, -and folding back the two sides of the door at the -opening. If you want a window where you can -toss hay up into the barn loft, it may be cut just -above the door. A boy who has seen the inside -of a real barn will be able to cut some strips of the -heavy paper, and paste them together, fastening -them to the back wall of the barn to show where -the cow and the horse stalls are.</p> - -<p>Some more strips of paper may be pasted together -to form a barnyard fence. The barn may -stand on the nursery table with the fence all -around it, or an old suit box of mother’s will -make a very fine barnyard indeed. The sides of -the box should be ruled with a pencil to look like -the bars in a real barnyard fence. Then you can -cut the bars with a jack-knife, or some sharp -pointed scissors. When you have finished the -suit-box barnyard, the barn may stand in one corner -of it.</p> - -<p>Now you are ready to cut some animals to live -in the barn.</p> - -<p>The pictures in your animal picture books will -make splendid patterns for the barnyard animals.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> -Trace the animals with some tissue paper and -then transfer these patterns to some stiff paper. -When you have cut carefully on the traced outline, -you may paste the animal’s feet to cardboard -standards to make them stand up. There may be -cows, and horses, and a donkey, and a whole flock -of barnyard fowls. Then you may color the -barn creatures with your water color paints or -with colored pencils.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_149.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Finished Barn.</p> - -<p>You can make a fine, large farm wagon, also, -to stand beside the barn. To make the wagon, -you should fold a small square of paper as you -folded the large one for the barn. Instead of -using the whole square, though, as you did for -the barn, you must cut off a strip of four squares. -Then make the short cuts as you did for the barn -in the ends of the oblong piece of paper. Lay the -three square laps which you have made by the -cutting together, and paste them—one on top of -the other. Cut out some wheels and fasten them -to the cart. Glue on some cardboard or sticks -for shafts, and the farm wagon is done.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104a" id="Page_104a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_150.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">CART, BARN AND BARROW, MADE OF CARDBOARD BOXES</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>If you want a wheelbarrow in the barnyard, -you may cut one of mother’s old spool boxes in -half. The edges where you made the cut should -be curved. A wheel made of an empty spool, or -a cardboard disk may be fastened to one end with -a pin, and some cardboard legs may be glued to -the wheelbarrow.</p> - -<p>When the paper farm is complete, you must -harness the donkey to the wagon, and set him to -work. Cut out some of the gay pictures of fruit -and vegetables that fill the seed catalogues, and -load the wagon.</p> - -<p>Fill the wheelbarrow, too. Cut out some paper -overall boys to visit the farm and spend the -summer. There is no end to the plays that the -paper farm will suggest to you.</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">MORE BOX PLAYS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">ONE of father’s empty note paper boxes, a -starch box, a box that held spools of thread -once—one, or all of these will furnish delightful -play material for an afternoon in the house. A -box has not finished its usefulness when its contents -are gone. It is strong and tough often -still, and ready for all kinds of fun.</p> - -<p>Some cardboard boxes, large and small, will -make the toy farm establishment shown in the -picture. A box that once was filled with writing -paper serves for the barn. The box stands on -one side, leaving the entire front open that toy -animals can be put in and taken out with greater -ease than if there were a door. The long edge -of the box cover is cut to fit the box, inserted and -glued in place to form the front of the stalls which -hold the toy animals. Shorter lengths of the -cover edge are fitted in between the back of the -box and this front partition to separate the stalls -and are also glued in place. When these are in, -a door can be cut. The stalls must be furnished<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> -with little grain boxes for the play horses to eat -from; and this is the way to make them.</p> - -<p>Measure with a school ruler and cut out a four-inch -square of heavy wrapping paper. Lay the -paper on a table in front of you and fold, first, -the front edge up to the back, and then the front -and back edges down to meet the center fold. -Now turn the paper around, repeating the folding -until there are sixteen squares. Cut off a -row of four squares, leaving an oblong piece of -paper that contains twelve squares. Make two -cuts in the opposite narrow ends of the paper, one -square long and one square apart. Fold up these -squares and paste them, one on top of the other, -forming a little oblong box. One of these boxes -pasted to the back of each stall looks just like a -grain trough, and may be filled with oats, if a -country boy is making the farm, for the little -horse to eat.</p> - -<p>Some of the wrapping paper that remains after -the grain boxes are finished makes the roof of the -barn. Cut a strip as wide as the barn is deep and -once and a half as long. Fold it once through -the center and, at the ends, fold down flaps by -means of which the roof can be glued to the top -of the box forming a hay loft. When spring -comes you can cut grass blades with a pair of -gardener’s shears, dry them in the sun, and fill -the loft of this little box barn with real, play hay.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108a" id="Page_108a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_156.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">CIRCUS PARADE (THE CAGE IS MADE OF A SHOE BOX)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>A box in which the apothecary packs his powders -makes the little farm cart in the picture, and -another one the wheelbarrow. No cutting is -necessary for the cart, but some of the cardboard -left in the cover of the note paper box can be -used for wheels. A fifty-cent bit is the right size -for the wheels. Lay one on the cardboard, and -draw carefully around it with a pencil, cutting -four of these wheels with a pair of sharp scissors. -Brass paper fasteners will make strong hubs for -the little wheels. Pierce a hole through both -wheel and box before inserting the fastener, -though, to help the wheel to turn. A strip of the -box cover glued to the front of the cart serves for -the handle.</p> - -<p>The wheelbarrow is just a little more difficult -to make than these other toys, but not too great -a task for a child with clever fingers. A section -that is about one third of the entire length is -measured and cut off the second small box, and -thrown away. It is the remaining two-thirds of -the box that is to make the wheelbarrow. The -front, open edges of the box are now curved like -the sides of a real wheelbarrow. Two narrow -strips of the cover, or two small sticks are glued<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> -to the front of the wheelbarrow for handles, and -two shorter lengths of cardboard or two very -tiny sticks form the legs. Another cardboard -circle cut the same size as those used for the cart -wheels is inserted by means of a knife cut in the -back of the barrow and helps it to trundle along.</p> - -<p>The box-built cart and wheelbarrow will be -found most useful in the spring. They can be -loaded with little green apples, tiny brown pebbles -that look like toy potatoes, corn kernels, or -peas. They will be strong enough to last a whole -season and help to carry fodder to the horse who -lives in the box barn.</p> - -<p>There is still more box fun. Ask mother for -an empty cardboard starch box, the strong kind -covered with blue paper, and see what a fine little -toy garage it will make. Almost every child has -a toy automobile given him for Christmas, but it -is so apt to go steering away with its own gasoline, -and losing itself somewhere in the house if -a child has no special place in which to keep it.</p> - -<p>Take the cover of the box and turn the box -itself bottom side up. On one side, right in the -center, draw a big square. The lower part of -the square should come on the very outside edge -of the box because this square is to be the garage -door. The door should be made in two parts, so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> -as to open very wide and admit the automobile -when it comes steaming along in a great hurry. -To make this double door, draw a perpendicular -line that divides the square into two parts. -Then, with a pair of sharp scissors cut right up -this line to the top of the square. Next, cut -along the top line to the right and left of the middle -line. Folding back the two halves that have -just been cut, out toward the outside of the box, -makes two little doors and opens the front of the -garage. Square windows can be cut in the sides -of the box, as many as one wishes.</p> - -<p>A number of empty thread boxes will make a -splendid train of cars, strong enough to drag a -whole family of china dolls or a load of live stock -up and down the piazza or along the garden path. -Cardboard circles cut from the covers of the -thread boxes and of the same size as those used -for the wheels of the toy cart make the car -wheels. They are fastened on, either in similar -fashion to the cart wheels by means of paper fasteners, -or a bone collar button may be pushed -through cart and wheel, helping the wheels to -revolve more easily. One of the thread boxes -has the cover glued on, and to the top is glued -also one large wooden spool for the engine’s -smoke stack, and a block for the engineer’s cab.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> -These little box cars are coupled together by -short lengths of braided cord. Holes are -punched in the ends of the cars with an awl and -the cord is pushed through and knotted at each -end to hold it in place. A long piece of cord is -fastened to the engine and is used to draw the -cars by.</p> - -<p>There is no end to the entertainment and fun -to be had from a pile of empty boxes. Just get -to work at a few of them your next free afternoon -and find out how much they are able to help -you in your play.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112a" id="Page_112a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_162.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">(A) THE ARK<br /> -(B) CARDBOARD ANIMALS WHO LIVE IN THE ARK</p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">A RECIPE FOR A NOAH’S ARK</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">IT isn’t a very difficult recipe to follow. All -the stirring you need to do will be when you -mix up some flour and a little water to make the -paste. That is the first ingredient. Next in the -recipe comes a pair of sharp scissors and a pencil. -After that you must find some sheets of heavy -paper, and the old animal picture books that you -thought you could not enjoy any longer because -the leaves were coming apart and the pictures -were torn. Spread out all these things on the -nursery table, and you will be ready to begin the -Noah’s Ark.</p> - -<p>The Ark itself is to be a big, strong envelope -for holding all the wild animals, and this is how -you must make it. One of the sheets of heavy -paper should be folded in half. The folded edge -forms the bottom of the envelope. Beginning -with this folded edge, the outline of the Ark is -drawn on the paper with your pencil. It is a -simple outline to draw—a big boat with curved -ends, and a sort of house resting on the top. -Then, holding the folded edge tightly so that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> -paper will not slip, cut out the Ark. The ends of -the Ark should be bound or glued, but the top is -left open that the animals may be put in.</p> - -<p>Windows and a door are cut in the Ark for the -animals will want to look out as they sail away -on their wonderful voyage, and the Ark may be -painted bright red with green trimmings.</p> - -<p>Next come the animals.</p> - -<p>The pictures of the animals may be mounted on -one of the remaining sheets of heavy paper, so -they will be stiff enough to stand up alone. That -is one way of making enough animals to fill the -Ark, but there is another way that will take a little -longer, but will prove ever so much more fun.</p> - -<p>The loose pictures from the book of animals -should be fastened to the table with thumb tacks, -or tacked to a drawing board. A square of white -tissue paper is then laid over each, and the outline -of the animal’s body is traced with a soft -pencil. When the tracing is finished, the tissue -paper is carefully lifted off and laid with the plain -side up on some stiff white cardboard. The outline -is then retraced with the same soft pencil -leaving a pattern of the animal on the cardboard. -The animal is then cut out, and painted with the -nursery water colors.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114a" id="Page_114a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_166.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">GOING ABOARD THE ARK</p> - -<p>You will need to be very clever, indeed, to paint<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> -the animals so that they will look as if they were -just fresh from the jungle. There must be a -tawny lion colored with brown that has a great -deal of yellow ocher mixed with it. The panther -must be orange with big yellow spots, and -large green eyes. The tiger’s eyes must have -yellow mixed with the green paint and his coat is -yellow with orange stripes. The bear is brown -and the kangaroo is tan.</p> - -<p>There should be two of each kind of animal. -Now how shall you make them stand up and walk -like real, live animals? Some very tiny bits of -wood may be glued to their feet. That is one -way of making the animals stand. Another way -is to make a narrow ring of the same cardboard -from which the animals were cut. The animals’ -feet are then glued to this ring, and they will -really stand.</p> - -<p>A boy will be able to make more animals than -he can count,—leopards, monkeys, zebras, elephants, -as many as he can find patterns for in his -toy picture books. And it will prove such fun -to draw them and paint them that he will be kept -busy for many rainy afternoons.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN UNIFORM</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">EVERY boy needs to be a soldier, once in a -while. There are so many brave deeds to -be done and so many cowardly things to fight, -and so much dark to walk through courageously, -and so many strange dogs and cats, and shy little -girls to protect with all the gallantry of those old, -old knights who lived in the story-book days. A -soldier boy is never late for school, and he never, -never forgets to do an errand. He goes to bed -alone every evening at eight, even if the stairway -is dark, and there is no light in the upstairs hall -to chase away the ghosts. He never lies, and he -is always cheerful. He knows that being brave -and gallant and true is just as much a part of a -soldier’s duty as marching, and drumming, and -saluting Old Glory.</p> - -<p>It isn’t easy to be a soldier though in a plain, -everyday suit of clothes, made of homespun perhaps, -and patched, and dingy brown in color. A -real soldier suit cut and fitted the right size for a -boy costs more money than there is in the boy’s -tin bank. What is the boy going to do if he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> -wants more than anything else to be a soldier and -he hasn’t enough money to buy himself a suit?</p> - -<p>Any boy will be able to make the soldier trappings -shown in the picture, and when he puts on -the cap, and the shield, pins the epaulets to his -shoulders and sticks the play sword in his belt, he -will be ready for the life of a little soldier. He -can work or play cheerfully, and when it comes -Saturday, or Washington’s Birthday, he will be -the envy of all the other boys as he leads them in -a fine parade, dressed in his gay, home-made soldier -things.</p> - -<p>Suppose we make the soldier’s cap first. The -diagram marked Fig. 1, 2, 3, and 4, shows just -how to do the construction. A bright red cap -will be fine for the soldier, or a blue one just the -color of the blue field in the flag. There is a -kind of tough, half-heavy paper called book cover -paper. One can order it from a stationer’s shop -or a printing factory at a cent or two a sheet. -Some sheets of this will make the boy’s own cap -and enough for all the other soldiers in the regiment. -A piece of paper that measures fourteen -by twenty inches is the foundation for the soldier -cap. Fold the two narrower edges together until -they touch, and crease the paper through the center -as shown in Fig. 1. Then with the paper still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> -folded, make a second fold as shown by the line in -Fig. 2. This line forms a guide line for the next -two folds which make the point of the cap. Lay -the papers, open, as in Fig. 1, on a table with the -folded edge at the back; fold each half of the -back edge down along the line made by the last -folding. Then fold up and crease the lower open -edges forming the rim of the cap. The rim -should be glued down to make the cap firm and -strong. A feather can be made by fringing -strips of red or blue cr้pe paper and twisting -them around a narrow strip of cardboard which is -glued inside the rim of the cap. A turkey’s -feather will do just as well, or a bunch of hen’s -feathers, or a cockade made of red, white, and -blue ribbons to decorate the cap.</p> - -<p>A boy can find a splendid shield pattern in the -back of the dictionary. Copy it, and enlarge it -until it is the right size to cover a boy’s shirt -bosom. Then draw it on heavy white cardboard, -and cut it out. A good size for the shield will be -eight by ten inches. When it is cut it can be -decorated with stars and stripes with colored -pencils or paints as shown in the picture. The -stripes are drawn carefully with a ruler and -filled in with color; one red and one white. -The blue ground above the stripes is dotted with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> -stars cut from gilt paper and pasted on. Two -holes are punched in the sides of the shield, and -a bit of cord is strung in by means of which the -shield may be hung around a boy’s neck. It will -make his heart beat faster and give him a whole -lot of courage every time he looks down at its -brave stars and stripes.</p> - -<p>Now for the sword which looks like a formidable -weapon in the picture, but is really not -dangerous at all. Every boy knows how to roll -a narrow piece of paper, and make a lamp -lighter. The sword that is part of this home-made -soldier suit is made in just the same way. -Cut some narrow strips of the book cover paper -and join them with glue until there is a long -strip. Roll this strip of paper tightly, in lamp -lighter fashion, until it is fifteen inches long. -Then press it flat between heavy weights. Roll -a second strip of paper for a length of six inches -and glue it to the broad end of the sword as a -handle. These swords are so delightfully easy to -make that a boy will want to roll a dozen after he -has made his first one, and he can arm himself -with as many paper poniards as an Indian chief -has arrows in his quiver.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120a" id="Page_120a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_174.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">(A) PATTERN FOR SOLDIER’S CAP<br /> -(B) THE FINISHED UNIFORM: CAP, SHIELD, SWORD AND EPAULETS</p> - -<p>The soldier’s epaulets are just five by two inch -strips of the book cover paper cut to fit a boy’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> -shoulders and decorated with fringed red and -blue tissue paper. They can be pinned to the -soldier’s coat shoulders with safety pins and will -make an ordinary play suit quite as military in -appearance as any uniform.</p> - -<p>When the boy soldier is dressed in this home-made -uniform, which will be even more effective -than any which is for sale in a toy shop, he will -be ready for any adventure in addition to the -brave prowess of everyday life. Perhaps he and -the other boys will want to take one of mother’s -old blankets and two or three clothes poles for a -tent, and tramp as far as the woods for a day of -real scouting. Every soldier has a knapsack for -carrying provisions and this play soldier will -need one, too. A large, flat box makes a fine -knapsack. Inside can be packed a bundle of -sandwiches, two or three apples, a doughnut or -two, and a piece of pie or a big slice of pound -cake. When the box is packed, tie it securely -with a length of cord, and have one end of the -cord for a strap by means of which the knapsack -is hung across the soldier’s back. Roll a square -of old blanket and tie to the top of the box just -as a real soldier fastens his blanket to his knapsack, -and the make-believe soldier in cap, epaulets, -and shield can draw his sword and start off -in search of any adventure.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">JOINTED TOY ANIMALS. HOW TO MAKE THEM</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THEY will really do “stunts,” these toys in the -picture. The grasshopper will hop if you -stand him up on a table and give him a chance. -The turtle will crawl along much faster than an -ordinary, live turtle. The crocodile will follow -you so fast that you will surely be eaten by him -unless you hurry. What fun it is going to be to -play with these live toys, but first a child must -make them, and as many more as he likes.</p> - -<p>Clear a low table on which to work and find -some heavy cardboard or thick water color paper -from which to construct the animals. Bring also, -a pair of strong scissors, a sheet of tracing paper, -a soft lead pencil and the box of water color -paints you found in your stocking last Christmas. -These are all the tools and material necessary for -making a barnful of animals. Ask mother for -some porcelain collar buttons to fasten the -animals’ legs to the bodies. The laundry man -brings so many of these useless studs every week -and a crop of them will be fine for jointing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> -animals. If one cannot find enough collar buttons, -a box of tiny brass paper fasteners will -serve very well instead.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_179.jpg" alt="" /></div> - -<p>Every boy knows how to draw a few animals, -at least free hand. If he is clever enough to be -able to do this just by watching the horses out in -the street, or the tiger in the Zoo, or the kitten -who sits in front of the nursery fire, washing her -face, so much the better. He will not need any -patterns. The child who finds difficulty in -sketching an animal free hand will have to trace -his patterns from a book, or a toy animal. Often<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> -one of the nursery toy animals may be laid flat -on the cardboard and its outline drawn and cut. -Noah’s Ark animals, if they are large, make excellent -patterns for a child to copy. If one has -no toys of the right size, the tracing paper may be -laid over the picture of an animal in a farm picture -book, or a book that tells about the jungle, or -a book on Natural History. When the outline of -the animal has been neatly traced on the tracing -cloth, it should be transferred to the cardboard -from which the animal is to be made. When a -child has obtained a clear outline in this way, he -may next proceed to make the animals alive.</p> - -<p>First, he must decide just the location of the -animal’s joints. Where are the tiger’s paws fastened -to his legs? Where are the grasshopper’s -knees? Where, hidden underneath his shell are -the turtle’s funny little flat feet attached to his -body? Then, using the pattern which has just -been made, a new pattern of the creature’s body -is made, then a pattern of a leg, a tail, an ear, and -these sections are all cut from the cardboard, separately, -with scissors or the sharp jack-knife. In -cutting out legs and paws, they should be made -always a little longer than the original pattern to -allow for the joint by which they are fastened to -the body. As soon as all the parts of an animal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> -have been cut from the cardboard, they should -be laid in place and holes punched with a coarse -needle or an awl at the joints. If the animal is -a huge one, the collar buttons may be slipped in -these holes to hold the sections together. In the -case of the toy creatures shown in the picture, paper -fasteners were used. When these joints -have been made the toys will stand or sit, cock -their ears or wag their tails, leap or run—in fact -they will do anything a boy wishes.</p> - -<p>The paints come next. It will be great fun to -make the toy animals just the right color. A -tiger may be such a gorgeous yellow with bright -green eyes and black stripes. The grasshopper -may be either green or a warm brown, and the -turtle’s house which he must always carry around -on his back should be painted gray.</p> - -<p>These jointed animals may be persuaded to act -out the children’s favorite stories and will furnish -a new kind of fun for rainy afternoons in the -house.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126a" id="Page_126a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_182.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">JOINTED CARDBOARD ANIMALS</p> - -<p>Little Brer Rabbit can be easily made of white -cardboard from the pictures of Peter Rabbit or -the rabbit pictures on an Easter card. Then -Brer Rabbit and Old Man Terrapin may act out -on the nursery table the famous race that Uncle -Remus has told us about. A shoe box may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> -used for a miniature stage if it is placed on its -side on a table, some scenery is painted in at the -back and a little cloth curtain hung at the front. -Through a hole in one end the jointed animals -may be put in and they will perform most acceptably -for an audience of dolls.</p> - -<p>Two children playing together, or two groups -of children can each make a set of jointed animals -and then pose them to illustrate a favorite story, -the other child or group guessing the story illustrated.</p> - -<p>Many other plays will suggest themselves when -one has a set of animals which are really alive -and which a child has made, all himself.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">YOUR OWN CIRCUS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">IT is going to be a circus small enough to fit in -any house. In fact, it will be possible to put -it within the boundaries of an old table. Because -you can’t always have an outdoor show is just the -reason that you are going to plan this fine, diminutive -one in the house. It may take several -days to get it ready, but once your indoor circus -is finished, you will find it almost if not quite as -interesting as a real one.</p> - -<p>First, find an old table somewhere to be used -as a circus ground. A pine table will serve -nicely, and if you can find some old green muslin -with which to cover it, you will discover that it -looks exactly like the grass in the field where the -real circus is held. Tack the muslin to the under -side of the table top so that it will not wrinkle -and interfere with the circus parade. Now you -are ready for the rope fence which always encloses -a circus ground.</p> - -<p>In the four corners of the table bore, with a -gimlet, through the canvas, some holes that are -just the right size to hold dowel sticks, five inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> -long. You can buy these dowel sticks of a carpenter -in foot lengths at a few cents each. Glue -the posts in the holes which you have bored in -the table and also bore extra holes for two more -about a foot apart in the front of the table. -These last little posts are for the gate to your circus -ground. When the glue has set and the posts -are perfectly dry, tie cord to one, near the top, -and then stretch it to another, knotting it, until -you have finished the rope fence that encloses the -circus ground. If you like you can have two or -three rows of cord, and you can print a little circus -sign to pin to the gate. It may read:</p> - - -<p class="center">THE GREAT AND ONLY ANIMAL SHOW<br /> -<br /> -Clowns, Wild Beasts, and the Biggest Elephant<br /> -in the World.<br /> -<br /> -Performances Every Afternoon and Evening.<br /> -<br /> -Admission, Adults, two pins, Children, alone,<br /> -one pin.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Come One. Come All!</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>All around the edges of the bill you can draw -pictures of wild animals with your colored pencils.</p> - -<p>The circus ground will look very much pleasanter -if you have a few trees standing about on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> -the edges, and these trees will be useful, also, to -tie some of your wild beasts to.</p> - -<p>Meat skewers will do nicely for the tree trunks -if you fringe ever so many narrow, doubled strips -of green tissue paper, and wind them with it, fastening -the fringes to the meat skewer with mucilage. -The green paper flutters in the air quite -like real foliage in the breeze on circus day, and -the little trees will stand up nicely if you stick the -end of each skewer inside an empty spool, glueing -it there so that it will stay in place.</p> - -<p>Did you think that you were never coming to -the tent for your circus? Well, here it is, and -the picture shows you just how to construct it. -You will need to enlarge the diagram several -times the size which you see in the picture, but -that is easily accomplished by means of your -ruler and lead pencil. Use some sort of tough, -firm paper for the tent. Water color paper will -be splendid because you can get out your paint -box and paint pictures of wild men and palm trees -and animals on the sides. If you have no water -color paper, use brown bristol board. The latter -makes a fine stiff tent. Cut out the top and sides -as carefully as you can, bend them, and glue or -paste them together. Then stand the tent up in -the center of your circus ground.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_189.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Pattern for Circus Tent.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>The animals, next.</p> - -<p>There are patterns for them, too, which you -will see in the picture and which are so simple as -to be very easily enlarged. The animals can be -made of the same kind of paper which you used -for the tent, and then painted, the elephant gray, -the camel a soft brown and the deer a dull reddish -color, or you can cut them out of wood. This is -perhaps the better way. Use thin pieces of very -soft, white wood. An excellent wood is holly or -soft pine, in the thin sheets which are used for -jig saw work, and for making picture puzzles. -Draw the pattern of the animal which you wish -to make first very carefully on your piece of -wood. Give your best jack-knife two or three -turns on a grindstone so that it will be nice and -sharp, and then go to work cutting the animal, -not your fingers. Make as many animals as you -can, and glue their feet to tiny blocks of kindling -wood so that they will stand. Touch them up a -little with paint, too, to make them look wilder.</p> - -<p>If you want cages for your animals use empty -spool boxes, covers and all. Cut bars in the cover -of each box with your jack-knife, stand the animal -inside and put the cover back on. The box -rests on cardboard wheels which are glued to the -long, narrow side of the box.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>A clever boy will be able to invent the acts for -the circus. One can rig up trapezes and flying -swings and tight rope appliances very easily by -using strings and spools. One can paint flags -of all nations or cut them from colored tissue -paper to float from the roof of the tent, and this -little home-made circus will be so attractive that -all the other boys will want to make similar ones -just as soon as they see it.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">BEAD WORK FOR BOYS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THERE is not a boy but has gazed at the -alluring Indian suits in the toy shop windows, -wishing that he were able to buy one. It -is so much easier to give a proper war whoop, and -scare a few of the fellows, and execute a wild -war dance, or even sit by a camp fire in the woods -telling stories, if only he is dressed like a real, live -Indian.</p> - -<p>Why not make one’s own Indian suit?</p> - -<p>It is perfectly possible for a boy to make himself -a fine Indian shirt, fringed, and decorated -with beads; a pair of beaded moccasins and -a bead belt in which may be thrust a scalping -knife, a bow and arrow and a few other implements -of war. He may hang all his scalps to the -belt, too.</p> - -<p>The only materials needed for the suit will be -three or four large chamois skins—or two yards -of brown denim if the chamois seems too expensive -for the young Indian’s pocketbook—some -red and blue porcelain beads which may be bought -in strings at any dry goods store for a few cents<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> -a string, a spool of heavy cotton thread, and a -little patience. With a coarse needle, and a pair -of scissors the boy will be ready for work. Making -an Indian suit will fill a great many rainy -afternoons full of fun.</p> - -<p>The bead belt is the best part of the suit to begin -with because a boy can experiment with designs -as he weaves the beads together, and he will -be able to form an idea of the pattern he wishes -to use when he embroiders the shirt and the moccasins. -One will need a bead loom on which to -make the belt. These looms may be bought at a -toy shop, but that is not really necessary. An -old box will do quite as well for a loom. The -belt in the picture was started on the cover of an -old shoe box, and a cigar box with the cover and -the bottom removed makes a fine bead loom. In -making a loom from a wooden box, very small -screw eyes may be put in the ends of the loom, -about one quarter of an inch apart to hold the -threads. In the card board cover shown in the -picture, the warp threads—those are the lengthwise -threads in the weaving—are held in place -by pins to which they were knotted at the ends of -the loom.</p> - -<p>Fourteen threads are strung on the loom for a -section of the belt, as tightly as the card board<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> -will allow of their being stretched. A needle is -then threaded with the coarse cotton thread, and -the end is tied to the warp thread at the top of -the loom at the left. The needle is then brought -out to the right below the warp strands, thirteen -red beads—one less bead than the number of the -warp strands, remember—are strung on the -thread, and the beads are pressed up between the -warp strands so that one bead comes between -every two threads. The needle is then run back -from right to left through the beads <i>above</i> the -warp threads. This makes one row of beads securely -woven to the warp. For the second row -of beads, six red beads, one blue one and six more -red ones are strung, the blue bead forming the -beginning of a simple design. The third row has -three blue beads in the center, the fourth has five, -the fifth three, and the sixth one, completing the -design. A row of red beads is then woven in, -after which the unit of design was repeated.</p> - -<p>Many different designs will suggest themselves -to the boy bead weaver. A checker board pattern -of squares may be used, there may be a plain -border at the edges of the belt, or a Greek fret -may be introduced with charming effect.</p> - -<p>When the section of the belt shown in the picture -is finished, it may be removed from the loom,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> -the ends of thread being tied securely about the -last row of beads. A second section is strung on -the loom, blue beads being strung first with a design -of red in the center. Four sections, two red -and two blue, may be sewed together to complete -the gay little Indian belt.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_195.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Indian Shirt Pattern.</p> - -<p>Now for the Indian’s shirt. The pattern -which is shown in the picture should be enlarged -according to the scale, one and one half inches -to a foot. If chamois skin is used for the shirt, -probably one large and two smaller skins will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> -need to be joined to give enough material, but -if the shirt is made of brown denim, the pattern -may be laid on a length of the cloth, without -piecing, and the shirt is then cut. It will not be -necessary to sew any seams in the shirt. It is -folded over at the neck opening, and tied on the -small boy with narrow strips of leather indicated -in the picture. One strip of leather is tied under -the arms, and the other about the hips. The -bead embroidery finishes the neck and sides of -the shirt. To do this embroidery, a needle is -threaded with coarse linen thread, and knotted at -the end. Starting at the right of the neck, and -close to the edge, the needle is brought through -to the outside of the shirt. Three beads are -then strung. They are held down close to the -shirt and the needle is thrust through the cloth to -the inside again. The needle is then brought -through, close to the first stitch, three more beads -are strung, and the embroidery is continued. -Red and blue beads should be alternated to form -a design. This stitch described is the simplest -one for a boy to use and it is most effective also, -being the stitch used by the Indians when they -embroidered their own shirts, moccasins, and -leggins.</p> - -<p>In starting the embroidery for the sides of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> -shirt, the bead border should be started about two -inches from the edge, this margin being fringed -carefully with sharp scissors after the beads are -all sewed on. A design of beads, which may be -varied according to the taste and skill of the boy -who makes it, may ornament the front and the -back of the shirt.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_197.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Moccasin Pattern.<span class="gap">Finished Moccasin.</span></p> - - - -<p>Moccasins sound very difficult to make, but -here is a pattern all in one piece, with no troublesome -uppers and soles to be fitted together. -Chamois skin should be used, if possible, for the -moccasins, or the light weight leather which may -be bought at a craft shop for art work and can -easily be sewed. When the pattern of the moccasin -which is shown in the picture has been enlarged -according to the scale—three inches to a -foot—it is laid on the leather or chamois, and a -pair of moccasins is cut out. It will be found -easier to embroider the toe before the moccasin is -sewed. The sewing which holds the moccasin in -shape is done with very coarse thread in an over -and over stitch. Narrow strips of leather may -be used, also, for the joining, in which case, holes -should be punched with a stiletto and awl to admit -of the leather being passed through the material. -After this joining is completed, the flap indicated -in the picture is folded over on the dotted lines, -and it is embroidered in the same pattern used -to finish the neck and sides of the shirt.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140a" id="Page_140a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_198.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">A BEAD LOOM MADE OF A BOX COVER</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>If there is enough of the material that was used -for the shirt left, two long, straight pieces may -be cut, embroidered on the long edges, fringed, -and tied about the Indian’s legs for leggins.</p> - -<p>A most gorgeous headdress may be made for -the Indian from cr้pe paper feathers. The -feathers are made by fringing cr้pe paper and -pasting this fringe to short lengths of flower wire. -Gilt paint will make the feathers even more glorious, -and when a number of them are finished, -red, and blue, and green, and yellow—all the -rainbow colors in fact—they may be wired to a -headdress made of stiff cambric or heavy cardboard.</p> - -<p>What shall we call the boy when he is dressed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> -in his home-made chieftain’s suit, which will be -more effective, even, than the one he saw in the -toy shop? Hiawatha, perhaps, as he dons his -war paint and feathers and starts in search of all -sorts of interesting Indian adventures.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE STICK PICTURES</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">IT is a new sort of fun that a boy can have with -just plain, everyday, ordinary sticks. You -can play at being an Indian, too, at the same time -for the Indians did it first and called it picture-writing.</p> - -<p>Suppose you were an Indian child in paint and -feathers, and moccasins. Suppose that you never -went to school, and never had seen a piece of paper -or a lead pencil. Then suppose that you -wanted to write a letter to your little red cousin -who lived on the other side of the forest in another -tribe, far away from yours.</p> - -<p>Of course, you have ever so much to tell your -little red cousin. You want him to know that the -big chief, your father, has just put up a fine new -wigwam of skins for you to live in, a more beautiful -wigwam than any other in the village. You -want the cousins to know, too, that the sap has begun -to run in the maple tree and soon your mother, -Laughing Water, will get out the big kettle -and build a fire of pine branches and boil the fresh, -sweet sap into maple sirup. Then there is a still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> -more wonderful thing to tell your little red cousin. -In the full of the last moon, a strange water creature -was seen in the river in front of your wigwam. -It was white, and large, and it had huge -white wings that the wind filled. It was a pale -face ship—much larger, and very different from -an Indian’s canoe.</p> - -<p>Now, how are you going to tell all these exciting -things to the far-away little red cousin when -you have no pencil and no paper for a letter, and -there is no postman and no railway train to carry -a letter to the other tribe? Why, it is going to -be the easiest thing in the world to do. Make -some stick pictures that will tell all the stories -that you would like to write if you only knew how.</p> - -<p>In the forest there is a fine old hunting ground. -You know just the spot where all the tribes gather -and build their great camp fires, and cook the -game, and dance in the evening when the hunt is -done. Before another moon your cousin’s tribe -will be there. And you are going now, to the -hunting ground, to make some stick pictures for -that little Indian boy to find. Then he will understand -that you have been there and you were -thinking of him.</p> - -<p>Jump into your canoe and paddle down the -river. Tie the canoe fast to the bank, then jump<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> -out and plunge into the forest. You know the -way to go, for the moss grows on the north side -of the trees. There, you have come to a cleared -spot in the deep, deep woods. There isn’t any -sound save the chattering of the chipmunks. -They won’t disturb your picture writing. Now -you may go to work.</p> - -<p>You break many of the straight, stout twigs -from the pine tree. Some of the twigs must be -long, and others you will break off short to fit -together where there are corners in the pictures. -There is a smooth bed of moss under the pine tree. -That will be a splendid place for your picture -writing. First, you will make a picture of the -new wigwam. Just two long sticks, crossed at -the top will make the outline, and you put two -short sticks together to show the door. Now, for -the maple tree. You will lay a long stick down -on the moss to show the outline of the tree. -Some shorter sticks, laid close to the sides of the -longer stick make the branches. The pale face -ship may be more difficult to make, but you will -be able to outline the picture with your sticks. -There are the sloping sides of the ship and there -are the sails.</p> - -<p>The picture letter is done. When the little -cousin finds it there in the woods he will know all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> -about the new wigwam, and the maple sirup, and -the strange ship. You travel home again if you -are a little Indian boy, and you don’t mind in the -least not having a pencil, or a postman.</p> - -<p>How may a little pale face child play at picture -writing?</p> - -<p>If it is vacation time, you can gather sticks in -the woods just as the little Indian boy did. Be -sure that they are long, straight ones, though. -You may sit in the grass and lay your stick pictures -on the lawn, or you may make them on the -floor of the piazza.</p> - -<p>If you want to make stick pictures in the house -on a stormy day, ask mother to let you use her -sewing table to put them on, or you can lay them -on the kitchen floor, or the nursery hearth rug. -For the indoor stick pictures, you can use burnt -matches, or toothpicks, or clothes pins—anything -long and straight will do. You can buy colored -sticks at a kindergarten shop, and those will be -the best of all for stick pictures. And if you have -a game of jackstraws, the straws may be used -for the pictures.</p> - -<p>The Indians had no picture books, but you have. -You can play a game with the stick pictures. -You can make pictures to illustrate one of your -favorite stories, and then ask the boy or girl who -is playing with you to try and guess what the -story is that fits the picture.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146a" id="Page_146a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_206.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">STICK ILLUSTRATION OF THE STORY OF THE THREE BEARS</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>A splendid story to illustrate with stick pictures -is The Three Bears.</p> - -<p>Here is their house.</p> - -<p>Here is the table that held the three bowls of -porridge.</p> - -<p>Here are their three chairs.</p> - -<p>And here are their three beds.</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">A TOY INDIAN VILLAGE</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">JUST fancy an encampment of real, live Indians -in the house in a little Indian village -that you made all yourself! It will be the best -sort of fun to make the camp, and when it is done -it will be a fine, new plaything for all winter long, -as the toy Indians have sham fights, and May -dances and tell each other stories around their -tiny camp fires. And this is the way to make the -fascinating toy.</p> - -<p>A long, shallow tin with very narrow sides is -the foundation for the Indian village. The tinsmith -has large sheets of bright new tin, and he -will make you one of these shallow tin trays for -just a few cents. The florist will give you a basket -of soft, black earth—enough to fill the tray—and -you can mold and pat it into tiny hills and -queer little valleys, and long foot paths, no wider -than your little finger for the toy Indians to trail -up and down.</p> - -<p>You must take a long walk now as far as the -woods to find some sprays of white pine, hemlock, -and spruce for the Indians’ trees. Gather some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> -little straight twigs, too, for wigwam foundations, -and if the ground is still bare, pick up some -of the prettiest pebbles you can find for make-believe -rocks in the Indian encampment. With -your jack-knife strip from the birch tree just a -very little bark to make an Indian canoe—not -much, for it takes a birch a long, long time to -grow more bark. Then you may go home again, -but on the way, buy a penny’s worth of grass seed -at the florist’s. What are you to do with all these -things?</p> - -<p>Just listen, and you will find out.</p> - -<p>Scatter the grass seed very softly over the -earth in your tray and sprinkle it with the rubber -bulb sprayer that mother uses for her house ferns. -You would not believe it perhaps, but in a week or -ten days your little Indian camp ground will be -covered with a carpet of soft, green grass really -growing in the earth. After you have planted -the grass seed, stick the little evergreen trees in -the earth and lay your pebbles about as if they -really belonged there on the ground. In one -corner of the tray, if mother is willing, you may -sink a shallow, round cake tin filled with water to -make a miniature lake, and about the lake you -can put a border of stones covered with the moss -that comes in a box of Noah’s Ark animals. The -tray of earth is quite transformed now into a tiny -forest.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_212.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Pattern for Toy Wigwam.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>Under the trees the Indian wigwams are scattered. -Making these tepees is ever so much fun -and will fill a long winter evening after your lessons -are learned and you have the library table -free to work on. Fig. 1 shows you how to cut -out an Indian wigwam, and heavy dark brown -paper or brown canvas is a strong material to use. -When the wigwam is cut, it may be decorated -with paints in any design you wish. A border of -small squares is an attractive decoration, or some -grotesque heads and bows and arrows may be -painted on. Gold or red paper stars and crescents -and suns may be cut and glued to the outside -of the wigwam, forming a very gay scheme of -trimming it, or very tiny autumn leaves may be -waxed and glued on. When a number of these -little wigwams have been cut, decorated, and -glued together, as shown in Fig. 2, place them in -your play forest, using two or three twigs crossed -for supports, the ends extending through the -hole in the top of the wigwam.</p> - -<p>Now you can make the Indians. English walnuts -form the heads. These are just the right -size, brown enough for the complexion of any Indian, -and nicely wrinkled, too. With a sharp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> -jack-knife smooth down a few of the walnut’s -wrinkles, and carve the Indian’s features, trying -to give him high cheek bones. Color his cheeks -with vermilion and paint his face, too, in as many -different colors as you like. A roll of stiff paper -or cloth glued to the nut head makes the Indian’s -body, about which is wrapped a blanket of fringed -cr้pe paper, red flannel, or any sort of gay stuff -that mother will give you. This walnut Indian -wears a marvelous feather headdress. The -feathers come from the chicken yard or the oldest -feather duster—whichever source is available—and -they are glued to a strip of brown paper -which, in turn is glued to the little Indian’s head.</p> - -<p>There should be a whole tribe of Indians, as -many as you can make before bedtime, and when -it comes morning run up to the play room and -stand the Indian braves at the doors of their wigwams -or in the little path between the trees where -they can see their real green grass coming up, and -enjoy the friendly shelter of their fine little camping -ground.</p> - -<p>These nut Indians will need bows and arrows -when they have sham battles. Tiny twigs may -be bent bow shape with rubber bands for bow -strings and burned out matches may be sharpened -to a point for arrows. Toothpicks make arrows,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> -too. A bow and a bundle of arrows may be laid -at the door of each little Indian’s wigwam. The -canoe that floats on the tin pan lake is made of -a strip of folded birch bark shaped at the ends -like a real canoe and stitched with brown linen -thread. It will really float if it is carefully made.</p> - -<p>For a camp fire, pile up some broken twigs in a -cleared spot in your Indian encampment and put -in some scraps of twisted, red tissue paper which -will look like flames. One of the kettles from the -dolls’ kitchen may hang on a forked stick over -this make-believe fire to cook the dinner for the -walnut Indian tribe.</p> - -<p>This play Indian village will last all winter, a -comfortable camping ground for the tribe, and a -delightful plaything for the clever boy who -made it.</p> - -<p>There may be some walnut squaws added perhaps, -and some peanut papooses wrapped in -blankets cut from a scrap of old chamois and hung -contentedly by thread to the sheltering trees. -The grass will grow so high that it may have to -be mowed with the nursery scissors, and when -the trees fade, more can be gathered and put in -the places of the old ones.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">CORN TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">CORN cobs really look as if they would like -to play. There is a whole binful out in -the barn, and the chickens do not want them and -neither does the farmer. He will make a big bonfire -out in the wood lot some day and burn up all -the corn cobs if the children do not take possession -of them first, and help them to play by making -them into toys.</p> - -<p>What fine, long, straight little logs they are for -a log cabin, or they might be made into Indian -or toy rafts, or a rail fence, or almost anything -else a child chooses.</p> - -<p>First you can make a little rail fence that -stretches across one corner of the barn floor. To -do this, lay down six corn cobs in zigzag fashion -on the floor with the ends not quite as far apart -as the cobs are long. Then across every two cob -ends lay another cob and finish the fence in this -way, making it very snug.</p> - -<p>Behind the fence lives Apple Johnny. He -owns the farm whose boundary lines the fence -marks out on the floor. Apple Johnny has a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> -hard apple for his head joined by a toothpick to -a fat apple that forms his body. His legs and -arms are twigs and his face is cut with a jack-knife -in the smaller apple. Apple Johnny has a -herd of wild potato horses on his farm. Each potato -has four twig legs, and a flowing mane, made -of a fringed corn husk pinned to the long end of -the potato, and a straw tail pinned to the other -end.</p> - -<p>As you put the last corn cob in the fence, you -heard the rain just pouring and pouring on the -barn eaves. Suppose the roof of the barn should -cave in and the whole inside be flooded! What -would poor little Apple Johnny do, and how would -he ever make his escape? Apple Johnny must -have a raft. Select six more corn cobs from the -binful, all of them just the same length, and lay -them down on the barn floor, side by side. In one -of the corners of the barn is an old last summer’s -berry basket. Strip off two bits of the binding -rim as long as the row of cobs is wide. Nail one -to each end of the row of corn cobs, putting a -nail in each cob, which holds the small raft firmly -in place. Then turn the raft right side up and -to one end nail a long, straight twig for a mast, -to which you can glue a white paper sail. It is -a fine little raft when it is completed, and strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> -enough to carry Apple Johnny and a potato horse -or two safely through any possible flood.</p> - -<p>But Apple Johnny has no house. Well, a -house is easily planned when one has a whole bin -of corn cobs to draw upon for building materials.</p> - -<p>Gather an armful of cobs and make a corn-cob -house. Lay two corn cobs opposite each other, -and two more across the ends, log cabin fashion, -driving nails through to hold them together. -Next, put two more corn cobs over the first -two and two more over the second, until the house -is twice as high as Apple Johnny is tall. For a -roof, nail two sides of the berry basket to the log -cabin, and then with a rip saw cut out a front door -high enough to let Apple Johnny step through. -There will be rather wide chinks in the house, but -you can play that these are windows through -which Apple Johnny can watch for the corn-cob -Indians and shoot at them with a twig musket -when he sees them coming.</p> - -<p>You can make a whole tribe of these corn-cob -Indians, and it will be the most fun of all, even -jollier than making a corn-cob fence, and a raft, -and a house. First, wind corn husks around a -cob to make the Indian’s clothes, but leave one -end, the larger end of the cob, uncovered because -that is going to be the Indian’s head. Then on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> -this end, mark a face with a bit of charcoal; eyes, -nose, and mouth; and paint the cheeks red with a -crushed cranberry, rubbing the juice on the corn -cob. The hens’ nests in the barn are full of ever -so many pretty feathers, so you can collect as -many of these as you wish and glue them to the -corn-cob Indian’s head for his headdress. Last -of all, ask mother if she is willing to give you a -few pieces of the left over plain cloth from sister’s -school dress for the corn-cob Indian’s blanket. -Of course mother is willing. Almost every mother -is willing to give a boy things when he is trying -to amuse himself all alone. She may even cut -a square of gay plaid from the piece of cloth itself -and turn out all the pieces from her sewing bag, -where there are other scraps just right for Indians’ -blankets; red flannel, and gray serge like -your last winter suit, and brown merino, and yellow -silk.</p> - -<p>The Indian looks very splendid indeed in his -feather headdress and a red plaid blanket. All -he needs then is a bow and quiver of arrows. -The bow you can make by bending a length of -willow and tying a piece of cord across. The -arrows are shorter, pointed twigs with a very -small hen’s feather tied to the end of each.</p> - -<p>This Indian you can name Chief Big Cob.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158a" id="Page_158a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_220.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption"><span class="indent">CORN COB PAPPOOSE <span class="gap2">CORN COB INDIAN</span></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A MARBLE BAG</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">NOBODY knows why the first of March -brings marbles, but it certainly does. Some -games really belong to the season in which they -come as coasting and snowfights, but other games -are played at certain times of the year for no reason -except that they always have been and always -will be. If some one should ask a boy—any boy, -why it wouldn’t be better to play football in the -summer and baseball at Thanksgiving time, he -couldn’t tell you, but his sense of the fitness of -things would be outraged.</p> - -<p>And so, when the snow goes away, and the frost -comes out of the ground, and the sap begins to -run in the trees, and a boy’s toes wiggle and wiggle -and long to kick out of his shoes and dig -themselves into the soft mud, it is quite the proper -thing for him to hunt up all his last year’s marbles, -and ask his sister—or somebody else’s sister—to -make him a bag to hold them, so that he will be -ready for the season’s marble campaign.</p> - -<p>The simplest marble bag to make is one which -is made in just the same way as a tobacco pouch.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> -Take an oblong piece of heavy tan canvas, measuring -twelve inches long by five inches wide. -Tan does not show the dirt readily, and the -heavier the material is the better, for the bag is -not going to be gently handled. Double this piece -of canvas in the center, so that it forms a bag six -inches deep by five wide. Sew up the two side -seams with a coarse needle and very heavy linen -thread, and make the seams very strong. The -sewing should be about a quarter of an inch back -from the edges. Then “scrape” the seams open, -which simply means to run your thumb nail along -the seams right where the joining is, so that one -raw edge shall be folded toward each side. Next -make a hem at the top by folding the material -over once, and then again. This hem should be -about a quarter of an inch wide, and in sewing -it down leave a space unsewed on one side where -it crosses the seam, so that the draw string can -be run in. Turn your bag so that it will be -right side out, and the seaming all on the inside. -A piece of heavy, wrapping-paper twine -twelve inches long will make a fine draw string, -by running it through the hem with a bodkin and -tying the two ends together.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_224.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Pattern of a Marble Bag.</p> - -<p>Another marble bag that will prove very satisfactory, -and will be so unusual that the boy who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> -owns it can gloat over the other fellows, is made -of very heavy chamois, or buckskin. A paper -pattern is made first, like Fig. 1. It measures -two and a half inches across the top, four and a -half inches from side to side at a point three and -three-quarters inches below the top, and its height -is six and a half inches. After these points have -been determined a boy can mark in the vase -shaped outline freehand. When the pattern is -made and cut out, lay it on the buckskin, holding -it carefully, so that it will not slip, and cut four -pieces just alike. Then take a large darning -needle or a “rug” needle and thread it with a -strand of raffia. If red, or blue, or green raffia -are used instead of the ordinary natural color, it -will make the sewing very decorative. Take two -of the pieces of buckskin, and, beginning at the -bottom, sew them together with the stitch that -is used for making baseballs. This is done by -taking a stitch up from underneath, then crossing -over, and taking a stitch up from the under -side of the other piece, then back to the -first piece and so on, drawing the raffia snug -each time. Instead of making a knot at the beginning, -leave the raffia hanging loose for about -an inch or more, and when the top of the seam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> -is reached, fasten the raffia tight before cutting -off. Next join the third piece to the second -in the same way, the fourth to the third, -and then the fourth to the first, so that all four -together form a bag. Take the four ends of raffia -at the bottom and knot them snugly together, -two by two. They may be trimmed off short, or -left hanging loose to form a tassel for decoration. -Now take a narrow piece of soft wood and slip -it inside the mouth of the bag, so that you can cut -slits for the draw string. They are cut with a -sharp penknife and should come just at the narrowest -part, or neck of the bag. If the upper -ends of the cuts are three-quarters of an inch -from the top of the bag, and the cuts themselves a -half inch long, they will be about right. There -are four cuts in each section making sixteen cuts -in all. Next take three pieces of raffia twenty-four -inches long. Knot the three together at one -end, and then braid them tightly into a cord. -When the other end is reached knot it as you did -the first. String this cord through the slits in -the neck of the bag just as though you were weaving—under -one, over one, under one, over one—and -then when it is all strung, tie the two ends -together in a square knot.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>It makes an exceedingly unique bag, and will -hold all the marbles a boy can win, and besides -winning marbles he will win the envy of every -other boy who sees his fine, new marble bag.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164a" id="Page_164a"></a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_228.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">WHITTLED SCHOOL BOX<span class="gap3"> CHAMOIS MARBLE BAG</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SCHOOL BOX</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">EVERY boy needs a pencil box. Plain little -oblong boxes most of them, with a flat hinged -cover, and a little lock that you keep carefully -fastened with the key. That is, a boy locks his -pencil box when he is able to find the key, but -whether it was in his pocket, or fastened to his -watch chain, the school-box key always does manage -to get away, somewhere—to make its escape.</p> - -<p>One day, however, the boy sees displayed in the -window of a stationery shop, a new sort of pencil -box, a most fascinating kind. The cover of the -box is made of narrow strips of wood fastened -side by side like the strips in the top of a roll-top -desk, and when the shopman opens the pencil box -to show the boy the inside, the cover just <i>slides</i> -right back out of sight, while the boy looks on in -open-eyed astonishment. The shopman’s supply -of these magic boxes is limited, though, and there -is a wild scramble for their possession among the -boys who can produce ten cents—for that is the -exorbitant price charged by the shopman. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> -boy wants one of those magic boxes. His fingers -just tingle and burn to hold one and try to make -the cover slide in its charming way, but he has -only five cents, he can’t buy one.</p> - -<p>The boy will be able to make his own pencil box, -though, and this is the way he must go about it -in order to construct one of those fascinating, -roll-top ones, just like the one in the shop window.</p> - -<p>In the first place, a boy must know how to whittle. -All that he needs in the way of material is a -jack-knife, some pieces of wood three-sixteenths -of an inch thick, some more pieces an eighth thick, -a strip of white cloth, and some little three-eighth -inch nails.</p> - -<p>The first piece to make (Fig. 1) is the side of -the box. It is just a plain oblong of the three-sixteenth -inch wood, measuring nine inches long by -two and a quarter inches wide. All the pieces are -made three-sixteenths thick except the strips for -the cover. Two of these sides are necessary of -course.</p> - -<p>Next come two strips nine inches long and a -quarter of an inch wide which are fastened, -notched side up on the inside of each side, “flush”—even—that -is, with the top, with four little -nails driven from the outside. The piece which -is cut from the end of each of these, as shown in -the drawing, is to make a joint which is later to -be fitted with Fig. 10.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_232.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a School Box.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_233.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a School Box.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>Fig. 3 is eight and nine-sixteenths inches long -and one and seven-sixteenths wide and one end -is rounded into a half circle. Figs. 3 and 4 are -nailed in position on the inside of the side pieces, -and together they form the track around which -the cover runs. Two of each are required. -Fig. 5 is the bottom piece, and is simply an oblong -nine inches long by two and a half wide. -It is placed in position with the side pieces upright -on either side of it and nailed from the outside.</p> - -<p>It is best to make the cover next, so that you -can test it and see that it works smoothly before -any more of the box is put together. It is made -of little strips (Fig. 6) three-eighths of an inch -wide and two and a half inches long, “sliding fit,” -which means that they are to be a little less -than two and a half, so that they will slide in a -space two and a half inches wide. A sharp rub -on the ends with sandpaper will make this slight -difference. There are twenty-two of these strips, -and they are glued side by side on a strip of white -muslin cloth. If you use a piece with a selvage -on one side, you will be more sure of making the -cover perfectly straight.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>Fig. 7 is the handle and is to be nailed flat to -the second strip—the one next to the end strip.</p> - -<p>Fig. 8 and Fig. 9 are a false bottom and false -end, which form the receptacle for the pencils, and -hide the mechanism of the cover. They are -nailed in position as shown in Fig. 12. The nails -to fasten these in place must be a little longer than -the others, because they have to be nailed from the -outside and must go through two thicknesses of -wood and project into a third.</p> - -<p>The next piece to make is Fig. 10—an oblong -measuring one and a half inches by two and a half, -and cut to make a joint with Fig. 2. This is -placed across the top and nailed down, covering -the rounding end of the “track.”</p> - -<p>Now the cover may be slipped into position and -the end pieces (Fig. 11), oblongs two and a quarter -inches by two and seven-eighths, nailed on, -and the box is done.</p> - -<p>It is a convenient size, the receptacle for pencils -is ample, and to one who does not know, the disappearance -of that cover when it opens is a mystery -that borders on black art.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">A HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">NOBODY will deny that a Christmas tree has -plenty of backbone, but somehow it doesn’t -seem to have intelligence enough to use it. Or -else it resents the taking away of its roots and the -substitution of a shop-made standard that it considers -inadequate. As a matter of fact the standards -that you can buy in the shops <i>are</i> inadequate -for a tree of any size. And so, if the boy of the -family is handy with tools, it is up to him to make -one.</p> - -<p>A very good standard for a Christmas tree—strong, -durable, and ornamental as well—may be -made from a strip of one-by-two-inch “dressed” -lumber 12 ft. long (which costs about a cent and -a half a foot), and some pieces of an old dry -goods box.</p> - -<p>First, saw off from your one-by-two-inch strip -four pieces twelve inches long and four pieces -eleven inches. These are to make Figs. 1, 2, and -4. Make four pieces like Fig. 1 and two pieces<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> -like Fig. 2; the notch at the end is cut with a saw -across the grain, and then split out with a chisel.</p> - -<p>When these are done, join two of the twelve-inch -pieces and two of the eleven inch to form a -square frame. The joint is shown in Fig. 3, and -it should be glued or nailed, or both, which is -safer.</p> - -<p>Next make the other two eleven-inch pieces like -Fig. 4. These are just like Fig. 2 except that a -groove four inches wide and one inch deep is cut -in the middle of each. Then they are joined with -the other twelve-inch pieces to form a frame similar -to the first. The first frame is to go at the -bottom of the standard, and the second frame, -placed with the grooves <i>up</i>, is for the top.</p> - -<p>Now cut from the remainder of the strip two -more pieces twelve inches long. With a compass -set at an inch-and-a-half radius, and the center in -the exact middle of one edge, draw a half circle -on each, and chip it out with a chisel like Fig. 5. -The use of these will be described later.</p> - -<p>The remainder of the strip will make four pieces -eighteen inches long, with a bit left over. These -are to stand on their two-inch faces, and the upper -edges of each end should be rounded off with a -“block” plane. Then two grooves are cut in each -piece, two of the pieces having the grooves on the -upper side and two on the under side, like Figs. -6 and 7.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_238.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_239.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>Now cut from your packing box sixteen strips -or pickets one and three-quarters inches wide and -fourteen inches long, like Fig. 8. These may be -“ripped out” with a saw and smoothed up with a -plane and sandpaper.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_240.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Christmas Tree Stand.</p> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>To “assemble” the standard join first the two -Fig. 6 strips and two Fig. 7. This leaves a hole -two inches square in the center and two strips -projecting from each of the four sides. Place the -first square frame that you made on this, so that -its sides will be equally distant from the center, -and nail in position. Next nail the pickets in position -so that the lower end of the pickets will be -“flush” with the lower side of the frame. Next, -hold the upper frame, with the grooves up, -in position, eight inches above the lower frame -and nail the pickets to that. Fig. 9 shows the -complete assembly.</p> - -<p>Now give the frame, and the two pieces like -Fig. 5 a coat of dark green paint, and the standard -is ready for use. Slip the tree into the square -hole in the base. If the trunk is a bit too large, -whittle it to fit. Then place the two pieces like -Fig. 5 around the trunk at the top of the frame -for a clamp, and slip them into the grooves in the -upper frame, and you will find your tree quite -ready to stand up and behave.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO WRAP CHRISTMAS PARCELS</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">HOW many boys and big folks, too, have at -some time received a Christmas gift which -was broken, or crushed, or spoiled in some way -through the careless packing of the sender. Even -at ordinary times the mail service and Express -Companies are hard enough upon packages given -to their care. The term “baggage-smasher” -ought not to be restricted to the employees of the -railways alone, and when at Christmas time the -mails and express lines are congested with packages -of all descriptions, and the men are tired and -overworked trying to deliver gifts that have been -sent at the last minute—then it is doubly needful -to insure the safety of your Christmas presents by -careful packing.</p> - -<p>Of course the wrapping of a gift cannot change -its value, but you should bear in mind that your -gift will <i>seem</i> doubly attractive to the one who receives -it, if inside of the serviceable outside wrapping, -there is another dainty one, and the expense -is so trifling that it need hardly be considered. A -dozen sheets of tissue paper cost only a dime.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> -Pure white or warm “Christmassy” red are the -most desirable kinds. Another dime will purchase -a box of Christmas seals—small ones with -pictures of holly and mistletoe, or large ones with -Santa Claus heads or Christmas bells on them. -If you prefer tying, to sealing, the ten cents will -buy a dozen yards of “tying” ribbon, which is -crimson “baby” ribbon in a cheaper grade than -is ordinarily sold. Gilt cord is also very attractive -for tying up gifts, and a tiny spray of holly -tucked under the cord or ribbon gives a final -dainty Christmas touch.</p> - -<p>Perhaps, though, you live so far away from a -town that you are not able to buy these Christmas -seals, and the tying ribbon. Almost, if not quite -as pretty to fasten the inside tissue paper wrapping -of a gift will be some very tiny, red maple -leaves gathered in the fall with the thought of -Christmas in mind, and pressed with a hot flat -iron on which some beeswax has been rubbed. -This preserves the bright color of the leaves and -keeps them stiff until you need to use them. -After carefully folding in the ends of the tissue -paper about the gift, the paper is fastened down -by gluing on a few of these gay, pressed leaves, -and in the folds of the paper a wee spray of pine -or a little wreath made of ground pine, or a bunch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> -of partridge berries may be tucked. Another -way of making a gift look like the country is to -tie it with strands of sweet grass.</p> - -<p>When the gifts are wrapped, and you are ready -to pack them for shipment, there are a few general -rules that must be remembered.</p> - -<p>First: That the gifts must be packed as -snugly as it is possible to do without harming -them.</p> - -<p>Second: That nothing—not even excelsior—is -quite as effective in stopping the transmission -of bumps and jars as crumpled up newspapers.</p> - -<p>Third: That the name and address of the person -to whom the gift is sent and also the address -of the sender must be legibly written in your best -school hand on the outer covering where they are -not liable to be torn off. You must remember -that, while the names and addresses are perfectly -familiar to you, they are totally unknown to the -men through whose hands the parcels go, and in -handling thousands of packages, illegible writing -means much delay.</p> - -<p>The rule of packing things tightly refers to -<i>everything</i>—even things which would seem most -crushable, for there is far more harm done by -packing these loosely so that they slip around with -every turn of the package, than by crushing them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> -flat in one position. Take a delicate waist, for -instance. If packed loosely, it will come out of -its box rumpled and wrinkled in every direction, -but if it is folded flat, the sleeves stuffed with -crumpled tissue paper, and the spaces around it in -the box filled with the same, it will reach its destination -quite as fresh as when it started.</p> - -<p>It is better to <i>box</i> all gifts if possible. Very -pretty Christmas boxes of all sizes and shapes may -be bought in the shops, or, in place of these, you -can use empty candy boxes which most people -stow away for just such purposes.</p> - -<p>Do not select a box that is too small and leaves -too little space for filling in with crushed paper, -and try and think, too, of the weight of the gift -in selecting your box.</p> - -<p>If you are packing odd pieces of china, wrap -each piece separately, and see that they are well -segregated with the crushed paper. If you are -packing a number of pieces of uniform size and -shape—such as saucers, plates, etc.—place them -in a pile with every <i>second</i> one well wrapped. -Then wrap the whole pile and pack <i>edgewise</i>.</p> - -<p>China should be packed in a wooden box, with -an addressed baggage tag nailed on, or the address -put on the wood itself with India ink.</p> - -<p>Flat things, calendars, cards, photographs, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> -handkerchiefs, gloves, neckties, ribbons, etc. if -unboxed, must be protected by pasteboard. For -this, the corrugated pasteboard that is used by -department stores is much more effective than -the ordinary flat sort. It is much less easily bent, -and is lighter in weight, which is of course a great -advantage, because it makes the cost of mailing -less.</p> - -<p>This corrugated pasteboard is also very good -for wrapping things which are light in weight, -but bulky and of awkward shape, for it may be -rolled to accommodate almost any object.</p> - -<p>Doilies, centerpieces, and other flat embroideries -must necessarily be kept uncreased in shipping, -but are too large to be sent flat. Lay them -first on a sheet of heavy wrapping paper, cut -square and slightly larger than the embroidered -piece. Then lay over the embroidery a sheet of -tissue paper, and carefully roll the whole thing. -Then form a tubular covering of the corrugated -pasteboard, and wrap with hardware paper outside. -In tying up a tube, the cord should go twice -around the tube—once near each end—and the -cord which goes lengthwise should go through -the opening of the tube so that the contents will -not slip out.</p> - -<p>In tying packages for mailing, use good strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> -cord, and remember that a package must bear no -kind of a seal and contain no kind of writing -beyond a simple Christmas greeting if it is to go -as “merchandise.” Even one of the little paper -seals stuck over the string will render the package -“first class” and subject to letter postage.</p> - -<p>Just one more thing to be remembered at -Christmas time. Courtesy is only another name -for kindness, and it would be discourteous to send -a gift which was not fully prepaid; or to send a -gift “across the line,” which is dutiable to any -great extent. And in courtesy to the men and -women who have to handle your gifts on their -journeys, send your Christmas presents long -enough ahead of time so that these men and -women may not be too tired when Christmas -comes to feel themselves its blessed peace and -cheer.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> -<h2 class="nobreak">YOUR OWN WIRELESS RECEIVING STATION</h2></div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">MOST boys are interested in wireless telegraphy, -and it is possible for any one of -them to make a simple apparatus by which they -can “cut in” and receive any wireless message -that happens to be passing through their particular -zone.</p> - -<p>The receiving set will require a number of different -parts, but they are easily made—when one -knows how.</p> - -<p>For actual hearing you will need a telephone -receiver of some sort. One may be bought for -about seventy-five cents at an electrical supply -house, or an old one, provided it is in good condition, -may be used.</p> - -<p>Next comes a “detector.” This consists of a -wooden base about six inches long by four wide -and an inch thick, on which is mounted a piece of -silicon about the size of an egg. An insulated -wire passed once around the silicon and then -through two holes in the base will hold the silicon -in position in the center of the block. Put a brass -screw an inch long at each end of the block and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> -“connect up” the silicon in the following way: -First take a piece of No. 22 single-covered copper -wire, scrape off a few inches of the covering, and -wind this bare copper wire several times around a -small round stick to form a spring. The bare end -of the spring must be filed to a point and rest -against one end of the silicon, while the other end -of the wire is wound around one of the brass -screws. Next, take a piece of ordinary insulated -telephone wire, bare one end far enough to wind -firmly around the free end of the piece of silicon, -and then wind the other end of this wire around -the second brass screw. This makes a metallic -circuit through the silicon which will “make” or -“break” with the touching or removing of the -spring.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_249.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Detector.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_250.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Tuning Coil.</p> - -<p>Next you need a “tuning coil.” This has a -wooden base twelve inches by six and an inch -thick. To make the coil itself a stick twelve -inches long and one and a half inches in diameter—a -piece of an old curtain pole will do<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span>—and -wind carefully on it a half pound of the -No. 22 single-covered copper wire. The end -of this wire is fastened to the stick with a -small tack, and it should be wound very evenly -and closely. The last end is left free for a connection. -After it is wound give the wire three -coats of shellac, making sure that each coat -is dry before another one is put on. When it is -thoroughly dry mark two straight lines from end -to end, a quarter of an inch apart. With a sharp -knife scrape off the insulation so that the wires -are bare on the outside, but be careful not to disturb -the insulation between the wires. To mount -the coil, nail at each end a wooden strip three -inches wide, three and a half high and one inch -thick. This has also to be nailed to the base, and -it should be placed so that the coil will clear the -base by a half inch. The strip of bare wire on -the coil should be uppermost. Now get a brass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> -rod one quarter of an inch square and thirteen -inches long; a thin brass strip one quarter inch -wide and two inches long; another strip one inch -wide and one and one-quarter inches long; and -two round headed brass screws. Bend the wider -brass strip around the brass rod to form a slider. -Bend the narrow brass strip in the center to form -a V spring. Solder one end of this to the slider -so that it is in the position shown in the drawing. -Slip the slider on the brass rod, place the rod in -position directly over the pathway of bared wire -on the coil so that the lower end of the V spring -will press on this pathway, and fasten the rod securely -with the brass screws to the wooden end -pieces.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_251.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Aerial.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_252.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Switch.</p> - -<p>For the “a๋rial” get three or four hundred feet -of wire—No. 16 galvanized wire will do, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> -aluminum or copper wire is better—some insulator -knobs, and two cross spreaders three feet -long. The parallel wires in the a๋rial should be -at least two feet apart, and the a๋rial should be -placed as high as possible so that surrounding -buildings, etc., will not interfere with the wireless -wave. The bare wires, wherever they are -fastened to poles or trees must, of course, be -wound around insulators. For a ground connection, -fasten an ordinary insulated wire to a -water pipe or to a piece of iron pipe sunk five feet -in damp ground. A safety switch may be made, -like the drawing, from a piece of wood six inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> -square and an inch thick, a piece of stiff brass -three inches long and a half inch wide, and three -round-headed brass screws.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_253.jpg" alt="" /></div> -<p class="caption">Diagram of Circuit.</p> - -<p>This completes the separate parts of the receiving -apparatus. To connect it up for use, follow -the circuit diagram. One wire from the a๋rial -leads through the safety switch to the tuning coil. -From the tuning coil carry an insulated wire to -the detector, and from the detector to the ground. -The receiver has two wires leading from it—one -to a point between the detector and the tuning coil,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> -and the other to a similar point between the detector -and the ground. When not in use the a๋rial -should be connected directly with the ground by -means of the safety switch. Where two wires -are connected they must of course have the insulation -scraped off so that bare wire rests against -bare wire.</p> - -<p>When you have learned to translate your messages -you will be able to do quite a bit of wireless -eavesdropping, and your receiver will click with -countless messages.</p> - - -<p class="center">THE END</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="transnote"> -<p class="ph3">TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:</p> - - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.</p> - -<p>Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized.</p> - -<p>Archaic or alternate spelling that may have been in use at the time of publication has been retained.</p> - -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by -Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS *** - -***** This file should be named 60621-h.htm or 60621-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/6/2/60621/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David E. Brown, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at -http://gutenberg.org/license). - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at -http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at -809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email -business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact -information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official -page at http://pglaf.org - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit http://pglaf.org - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - -</pre> - -</body> -</html> |