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diff --git a/old/60621-0.txt b/old/60621-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 4aacb6c..0000000 --- a/old/60621-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3686 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by -Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Boys' Make-at-Home Things - -Author: Carolyn Sherwin Bailey - Marian Elizabeth Bailey - -Release Date: November 3, 2019 [EBook #60621] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David E. Brown, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS - - -[Illustration] - - - - - BOYS’ - MAKE-AT-HOME - THINGS - - BY - CAROLYN SHERWIN BAILEY - AND - MARIAN ELIZABETH BAILEY - - WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS - - [Illustration] - - NEW YORK - FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY - PUBLISHERS - - - - - _Copyright, 1912, by_ - FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY - - _All rights reserved, including that of translation into foreign - languages, including the Scandinavian_ - - [Illustration: _September, 1912_] - - - - -PREFACE - - -Make-At-Home-Things for Boys aims to keep boys busy and entertained. -It furnishes them with simple directions for making toys and useful -articles, all of which are carefully pictured. The aim of the book, -is to give boys an idea of the craft possibilities which lie in the -crudest materials, often the waste material of the home and in this way -to develop real artistic ability. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - PREFACE v - - THE MAKING OF TOOLS NECESSARY FOR WHITTLING 1 - - HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICAL WORK BENCH 7 - - WORK BENCH ACCESSORIES 15 - - HOW TO MAKE A TURNING LATHE 21 - - HOW TO MAKE A TOY TRAIN 29 - - OUT-DOOR TOYS 37 - - HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DESK SET 45 - - WILD ANIMALS YOU CAN MAKE 53 - - HOW TO MAKE A SET OF MISSION FURNITURE 59 - - TOYS THAT HIDE IN THE WOOD BOX 65 - - THE WONDERFUL DODO BIRD 75 - - A FLEET OF TOY BOATS 83 - - HOW TO MAKE A PLAY TENT 89 - - HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN TOPS 95 - - THE FARM THE SCISSORS BUILT 101 - - MORE BOX PLAYS 107 - - A RECIPE FOR A NOAH’S ARK 113 - - HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN UNIFORM 117 - - JOINTED TOY ANIMALS. HOW TO MAKE THEM 123 - - YOUR OWN CIRCUS 129 - - BEAD WORK FOR BOYS 135 - - HOW TO MAKE STICK PICTURES 143 - - A TOY INDIAN VILLAGE 149 - - CORN TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM 155 - - HOW TO MAKE A MARBLE BAG 159 - - HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SCHOOL BOX 165 - - A HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND 171 - - HOW TO WRAP CHRISTMAS PARCELS 177 - - YOUR OWN WIRELESS RECEIVING STATION 183 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Whittled Toy Train _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - Knife-strop 6 - - Whittled Weather Vane; Kite Stick; “Cat”; Reel - for Fish Line; “Cat” Stick 38 - - File; Ink Well; Pen Tray 46 - - Book Rack 50 - - Whittled Wild Animals: Giraffe, Camel 54 - - Whittled Wild Animals: Bear, Lion, “Darwin” 56 - - Dolls’ Chair and Table Whittled in Mission Style 60 - - Dolls’ Whittled Chest of Drawers; Dolls’ Whittled - Bed 64 - - Toy Barnyard Made of Kindling Wood 68 - - A Set of Dolls’ Furniture Made by Gluing Together - Blocks of Kindling Wood 74 - - The Dodo Bird 80 - - A Cork Raft; A Cork Sail Boat 84 - - Whittled Toy Sail Boat 88 - - Whittled Clown Top 96 - - Beet Top; Top Made of Graduated Disks; Button - Mold Top 98 - - Cart, Barn and Barrow Made of Cardboard Boxes 104 - - Circus Parade (The Cage is Made of a Shoe Box) 108 - - The Ark; Cardboard Animals Who Live in the Ark 112 - - Going Aboard the Ark 114 - - Pattern for Soldier’s Cap; The Finished Uniform: - Cap, Shield, Sword and Epaulets 120 - - Jointed Cardboard Animals 126 - - A Bead Loom Made of a Box Cover 140 - - Stick Illustration of the Story of The Three Bears 146 - - Corn Cob Pappoose; Corn Cob Indian 158 - - Whittled School Box; Chamois Marble Bag 164 - - - - -BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS - - - - -BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS - - - - -THE MAKING OF TOOLS NECESSARY FOR WHITTLING - - -The tools which one will need for whittling--the kind of whittling that -makes something besides splinters--are very simple and few in number. -Any boy’s pocket will furnish a jack-knife, and it is pretty sure to be -a sharp one. - -With a knife, a pencil, and some pieces of wood, all the other tools -may be made. Basswood is the easiest wood to handle because it is soft, -and very close grained. If basswood can not be had, pine is the next -best wood, and an old egg crate, which any grocer will be glad to get -rid of, will furnish you with enough whittling material for a long time. - -The scale for measuring (Fig. 3) should be made first, as it is the -tool most necessary in laying out the other tools. One of the thin -strips from the side of the egg crate may be used for this. The -outline of the scale must be drawn on the wood with a hard pencil. A “6 -H” is the best. The “H” means “hard,” and the number of H’s shows the -degree of hardness. The pencil should be sharpened on both ends--one -end rubbed to a fine point on sandpaper, and the other end to a chisel -point. The sharp point is to mark, accurately, the points to which -lines are to be drawn, and the chisel point is to draw the lines with. -After the outline is drawn it may be cut. - -[Illustration: FIG. 3.] - -First take off a splinter or two to determine the direction of the -grain, because one long cut against the grain might spoil your work. -When this is determined, you should cut down _almost_ to the outline, -using a long, free stroke from the shoulder for the cutting in the -direction of the grain. For the cross-grained cutting at the ends, the -knife is held in the four fingers, with the thumb steadying the near -side of the wood, and the cut is made toward the thumb. Only a very -short cut may be made at a time, and then a bit of wood is clipped -away so that the next cut may be made. This cutting, also, should be -done near, but not on, the line. After the model is roughly cut out, -it should be worked down very carefully to the lines, the beveled -edge cut, and then sandpapered smooth all over. The sandpaper must be -put over a small block of wood, and held very flat. Otherwise it will -spoil a straight surface. Then the graduations are to be put on. If -nothing better is at hand, the spacing may be done with mother’s tape -measure. Lay off the spaces with the pointed end of the pencil, and -then draw the lines which show the spacing, making those which show the -sixteenths, 1/16″ long; the eighths, 1/8″ long; the quarters, 3/16″ -long; the halves, 5/16″, or the full width of the bevel. This must be -done with a pencil, for ink would run into the wood and spread. The -inch dimensions should be marked 1, 2, 3, etc., and a light coat of -shellac or varnish will add much to the durability of the scale. The -back edge of the scale may be used as a straight edge, and to lay the -pencil against for drawing lines, but it should be remembered that the -scale itself--that is, the graduated side--must never be used for -this. If it were, the graduations would soon be spoiled. - -The tool which is most necessary next to the scale is the square (Fig. -4), and this should also be made with great accuracy. It is used to -test two adjoining edges, to see if they are square with each other. -In making anything of wood, one of the largest surfaces is generally -made perfectly true, and marked with a little cross (x), designating it -as the “face.” One of the adjoining edges--not a cross-grained one--is -also made true and square with the first surface, and marked with a -second cross, as the “working edge.” Then all the other measuring and -squaring is done from these two surfaces. - -[Illustration: FIG. 4.] - -The piece of wood to be tested should be held in the left hand, on a -level with the eye, and the square held in the right hand, with one of -the inner edges resting against the wood, and the other projecting over -it is moved back and forth. Any unevenness in the wood will readily be -seen. The outside edges of the square may also be used for testing the -evenness of wide flat surfaces. It is made like the pattern, of two -strips of wood, with a fitted joint glued together. - -[Illustration: FIG. 1.] - -The knife strop shown in Fig. 1 is a great help in whittling, because -it will keep your knife in good condition. A piece of the heavier wood -at the end of the egg crate may be used for this. It is made from a -strip measuring 1-1/2″ wide by 11″ long, and the strip of leather (cut -from a discarded razor strop) is glued on. The 1/8″ bevel is continued -all the way around the handle on both sides to make it fit the hand. -The hole in the end is to hang it up by, and may be made with a hammer -and nail, or with a bit and brace if you have one. - -The pencil sharpener (Fig. 2), is also a very necessary help in -whittling and it is very simple to make. A strip of thin wood 1-1/4″x7″ -forms the foundation. This is narrowed down at the handle end to 3/4″. -The curves may be marked on the outline, free hand, and in cutting you -must be very careful to remember the grain of the wood. The curves at -the ends should be cut from each side toward the middle of the end, -gradually working into a cross-cut. The curves at the sides must be cut -from the wider part toward the handle, using the point of the knife, -and working with great care so as not to split the wood. A strip of -sandpaper 1″x3″ is glued on and the sharpener is complete. - -[Illustration: FIG. 2.] - -With these tools finished a boy is ready to begin some real whittling, -and make other models which will be quite as useful, and very much more -attractive. - -[Illustration: KNIFE-STROP] - - - - -HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICAL WORKBENCH - - -A good practical workbench may be made by any boy who can handle the -simplest tools and procure a little suitable lumber. - -The lumber should be bought at a lumber yard, in the rough, which will -cost a great deal less than finished boards. - -It will require 26 ft. of two-by-four pine boards, 12 ft. of -two-by-six’s, and 23 ft. of one-by-six’s. The two-by-four’s cost one -and three-quarters cents a running foot, the two-by-six’s are two and -a half cents, and the one-by-six’s, one and a half cents. The boards -come in regular lengths, from ten feet up to sixteen, or in some cases, -up to twenty-four feet long. It will be best to get a twenty-four foot -one-by-six board if possible, a twelve foot two-by-six, one twelve foot -and one fourteen foot two-by-four. This will make the total cost for -boards one dollar and twelve cents. - -Aside from the pine boards for the bench itself it will require a piece -of oak measuring three by four inches and thirty-four inches long, for -the bench vise; a screw and handle for the vise (costing thirty-five -cents at any hardware store); a pound of four inch nails; and two -square headed iron bolts, one half inch in diameter and four inches -long, each fitted with two iron washers and one square nut. - -Saw off, first, from the twelve foot two-by-four, four pieces -thirty-three inches long. These are the legs of the bench, and they are -to stand with their broad four-inch faces toward the ends of the bench. -Then cut in each one of these joints like those shown in Fig. 1. The -sides in which the joints are cut face toward each other at the ends of -the bench and into them is fitted the supporting framework. - -For the lower framework cut from the fourteen foot two-by-four two -pieces forty-two inches long and four pieces nineteen inches long. Two -of the nineteen-inch pieces are to be left as they are, but the other -two and the two forty-two inch pieces should have joints cut at the -ends like Fig. 2. These joints, as well as the joints in the uprights, -are cut with a saw, and the wood is split out with a chisel. Then these -four jointed pieces are fitted together and glued or nailed to form -a framework nineteen by forty-two inches. The four uprights are then -fitted in place and nailed, increasing the width of the ends to -twenty-three inches. Then the other two nineteen-inch pieces are fitted -into the top of the uprights across each end, and nailed in place. Four -braces (Fig. 3) for the ends are made from two sixteen-inch pieces of -the one-by-six stock. Each piece is first cut in two, lengthwise, with -a rip saw. This makes four pieces twenty inches long by three inches -wide. Mark the center joint of each end of each piece. Then measure on -both sides, from each end, a distance of one and a half inches. Connect -these points with the end points by a line and saw off the corners, -leaving on each end a right-angled point. The braces are then nailed in -place as shown in Fig. 4. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.] - -This finishes the body part of the bench. Next, cut from the one-by-six -board a piece fifty-six inches long. Fit it across the front of the -frame, just even, or flush with the top, and projecting seven inches -beyond the uprights at either end. Then nail in position. - -Cut from the twelve foot two-by-six board two pieces fifty-six inches -long. Place one of them across the top of the bench at the extreme -front, so that it is flush with the wide surface of the front board. -Nail this to the end framework and nail the second piece in position -just back of it. - -It is necessary for this much of the top to be very heavy, for this is -where the heavy strain of the work will come. The remainder of the top -is made of two strips of one-by-six wood. In order to make this even -with the two front strips which are thicker it is necessary to put -pieces underneath it at each end. For these cut a piece of one-by-six -board twelve inches long and rip it in two. Place these strips along -the end frame, then place the top boards on them and nail all in -position. When this is done the whole top of the bench may be made -partially smooth, if it is desired, with a jack plane. Then cut one -more strip of one-by-six fifty-six inches long and nail across the back -of the bench, allowing it to project three inches above the top. - -The vise, as it comes from the store, consists of a long, straight, -square-headed screw about an inch in diameter, which ends in a round -iron plate and a T-shaped pipe. The plate is loose but not removable. -Through the T a long wooden handle fits. Beside this there is an -elliptical plate holding a threaded pipe which the screw works in. To -put it together, first make a piece from the remaining two-by-six like -Fig. 5. This piece forms the inner side of the vise and fits _inside_ -of the front piece of the bench, just touching the under side of the -top, and _outside_ of the lower framework. Its edge should be four -inches in from the front leg of the bench. Corresponding holes are made -with a bit and brace in the front piece of the bench and counter-sunk -a half inch. The two pieces are then bolted together, the heads of -the bolts and the iron washer fitting down in the counter-sink, and -the other washer being placed under the nut on the other side. The -receptacle for the vise screw is fastened in position through the back -of Fig. 5. - -Next, the piece of oak is prepared for the vise jaw. It is slanted -off at the ends like Fig. 6, the outer edges rounded, a hole somewhat -larger than the vise screw cut through as shown, and a joint cut -through with chisel and hammer near the bottom. Into this joint fit -Fig. 7, a piece of wood one by four inches and twelve inches long, -which is intended to keep the jaws of the vise approximately even. -It fits into the oak with a drive fit and has holes zigzagged or -“staggered” across it into which a round peg three inches fits. By -placing this peg in different holes the bottom opening of the vise may -be adjusted to correspond with the desired top opening. - -The long screw of the vise is slipped through the hole made for it, and -the plate is screwed in place. - -[Illustration: _Work Bench Complete._] - -This completes a bench which will prove a great help to the boy -workman, and which takes scarcely more time in making than it has in -describing. - - - - -WORKBENCH ACCESSORIES - - -When you have made yourself this fine, big workbench you will find out -very soon that there are a number of workbench accessories which will -make it much more convenient and desirable. - -The first thing that will be missed is a tool rack. With tools -scattered all over the bench it is difficult to do good work. It means -a waste of time and sometimes a waste of temper, while, if the tools -are hanging right before one’s eyes in an orderly row, each one may be -taken as it is needed, and replaced again when one is through, and the -work will go on smoothly. - -A single pine board six inches wide, one inch thick and sixteen feet -long will make all the accessories one can want. It is better to -procure a finished board from the planing mill. It will cost three or -four cents a running foot--a total cost at the most of sixty-four cents. - -For the tool rack cut from the board two fifty-six-inch lengths. Cut -one of these in two lengthwise with a rip saw and plane the sawed edge -smooth and square with the face or wide, flat side of the board. With -a pencil and scale mark the positions on the centers of the holes shown -in Fig. 1. Then when the centers have been determined, drill them -according to the sizes indicated, with a bit and brace. The first three -holes at the left are to hold bits; the next two, chisel and gouge, and -the others are for screw-drivers. These latter four, after the holes -are drilled, are made open clear to the edge of the rack by sawing out -a section from the front. This makes it possible to take the tools out -without lifting them entirely out of the rack. From the right-hand end -mark off a distance of twelve inches. Then, from the end to this line, -cut two grooves as shown in the drawing. The forward one is rounded -out with a gouge to hold a pencil while the back one is square and -flat, cut with a chisel, to hold either a twelve-inch scale or a folded -two-foot rule. In the front edge of this piece, about six inches from -the right-hand end is driven a nail to hold the claw hammer. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of Work-bench Accessories.] - -The fifty-six-inch length which was not ripped in two is fitted at -right angles to the back of this rack, lapping over the edge and flush -with the top. It is nailed in position and two supporting brackets like -Fig. 2 are fitted under each end of the rack for strength. When this -is all fastened together, the whole rack is set up on top of the back -pieces of the workbench and held in place by two cleats, three inches -by eight which are screwed to both the back piece of the bench and the -back piece of the rack. - -Underneath the holes for the bits there should be two nails to hold the -brace. The jack plane, block plane, and spoke shave may stand on the -bench underneath the rack, and screws or nails at the end of the bench -will hold rip saw, cross-cut saw, and dust brush. - -Next in usefulness is the bench block shown in Fig. 3. For this cut one -piece of wood six inches by eleven, and two pieces, six inches by two -inches. All these pieces must have the grain running in the longest -direction. When these are trued up, fit them together as shown, and -fasten with one-and-three-quarter-inch wood screws. After completing -this the corners are cut off. The block fits over the front edge of the -bench near the right-hand end and forms a brace when one wants to hold -a piece of wood steady for sawing. - -Next comes the bench stop, Fig. 4. When one is planing a wide, flat -board the vise is useless. So holes are drilled in pairs in the top -of the bench itself, and these bench stops are slipped in to form a -buffer. A little piece of wood one by one by two is used, the grain of -course running the long way. For half of the distance the stop remains -square, while the other inch is rounded with a chisel to fit into the -hole, which should be slightly more than an inch deep. Two of these -stops will be needed. - -Every workbench needs a nail box. A good one may be made from two -pieces three inches wide by fourteen inches long, which form the sides, -two ends three inches by three, and a bottom piece five inches by -fourteen. The side pieces are nailed to the end pieces, fitting over -them, and the bottom fits over all. This makes the inside measurements -three inches by twelve. Of course it is desirable to keep the different -sizes of nails separate, so this is divided into as many compartments -as are desired by partitions. These can be made from any old piece of -wood about a half inch thick. They measure three by three inches and -may be spaced however you like, except the one which is shown in Fig. -5. This is to be placed in the middle and forms a handle as well as -a partition. Just as convenient, though not quite as necessary, is a -miter box. It consists of two side pieces five inches by twelve, and -one bottom piece four inches by twelve. The side pieces fit down over -the edges of the bottom piece and are nailed fast. There are no ends. -When this much is done, take a forty-five degree triangle, and mark -across the two top edges one perpendicular line, and one forty-five -degree line in each direction, making them so that they do not overlap. -Then saw straight down from these lines to the bottom piece. A miter -box will prove itself a great convenience in sawing the corners of -molding or anything which requires a fitted corner. The piece to be -sawed is held firmly in the box and the saw guided through the slots. - -When a boy has made the bench and all these accessories, and has some -tools, he will be equipped for big practical work. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE A TURNING LATHE - - -Most boys have a speaking acquaintance with a turning lathe. Some -boys know how to use one with good results. But to use one and own it -too--that is a joy which few boys experience. - -After all, though, a lathe is not such a formidable machine, and if a -boy is quick at catching an idea and working it out he can make one for -himself. - -Most of the material can be procured from some machine shop at -practically no cost, and the parts that have to be bought outright will -cost very little. - -The foundation may be an old sewing-machine stand and the lathe is run, -just as a sewing machine is, by foot power. In almost any junk shop or -second hand shop you will find an old out-of-date sewing machine for -sale. New machines can be bought so cheaply nowadays that a second hand -one costs next to nothing. - -When you have procured this you must take it to pieces. The wooden top -part is fastened to the iron frame by screws from underneath. Take -these out, and the top and drawer at the sides may be lifted right off. -Then take out the screw at the right hand side of the machine part and -slip off the upper belt wheel. This upper belt wheel, the belt, the -lower belt wheel, and the iron framework of the machine are all that -will be needed for the lathe, and the rest you may discard, or put -away in the “handy” pile for some future construction. The lower belt -wheel is of course fastened to the frame, so that does not need to be -disturbed. - -Next get a piece of hickory or some other hard wood twelve inches wide, -three feet long and one-and-one-half inches thick. Cut a long, narrow -slot in this from one end as is shown in Fig. 1. Then fasten this piece -to the top of the iron frame with the same screws that fastened the top -of the machine on before. The solid end of the wood should project two -inches beyond the right-hand end of the frame where the belt is, and -the slotted end will of course extend somewhat beyond the frame at the -left. This is what is called the “bed” of the lathe. Now bore the two -holes which the belt goes through. - -When this is done, measure the hole in the center of the upper belt -wheel, where the shaft went through. It will probably be one half inch -in diameter. Then get a piece of gas pipe twelve inches long and of the -same diameter, outside measurement, as the hole, so that the wheel may -be put on it with a “drive fit.” This simply means that the wheel fits -so tightly that it must be driven on and, once on, it will not turn. It -should be driven on far enough so that when the groove for the belt is -in line with the groove on the lower belt wheel, the pipe will project -the half inch beyond the solid end of the bed. - -Now you must make two supports, or “head blocks” for this. Cut from -two-inch-thick hard wood two pieces like Fig. 2. The square hole is -for the gas pipe to go through and must have a bearing fitted into it. -Of course it would be easier to cut just a round hole slightly larger -than the pipe for it to turn in, but this bearing, with much turning, -would wear loose. So a one-inch square hole is cut; the gas pipe, with -a piece of newspaper wrapped around it, is held in the exact center of -the hole, the head block standing upright; and melted Babbitt metal is -poured down through the hole in the top of the block. To do this pieces -of cardboard should be fitted over the pipe and tacked to either side -of the block, so that the space inside is like a mold. The metal -which remains in the top hole forms a key to hold it. The Babbitt metal -may be bought at a hardware store in small bars and melted in a kettle -in the fire. It hardens quickly and when hard, the pipe may be removed, -the paper taken off and you will have a permanent, durable bearing. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Turning Lathe.] - -Slip one of these head blocks on the pipe from each end, with an iron -washer on each side of each block. The right hand block should be -“flush” with the end of the bed, the pipe projecting a half inch beyond -it. The other block should be spaced two inches back from the ends of -the slot in the bed. The blocks are fastened to the bed with long wood -screws which come up through the bed from underneath, and they are held -in position on the gas pipe by making “prick punch” holes through the -pipe close to the washers and using either “cotter pins” or bent wire -through these. Then the end of the pipe, which projects over the slot -should be filed so that it has four points, or teeth. This completes -the head of the lathe, and is much the most complicated part. - -The rest of the lathe consists of a “tail block” and a tool rest, -both of which are adjustable to any position desired. Fig. 3 shows -the tail block. Like the head blocks, it is made of two-inch thick -stock. The bottom of it is cut to slide back and forth in the slot. -Just underneath it, on the under side of the bed, is a piece of wood -four inches by two inches and one-inch thick which is fastened to the -tail block by a screw through the center and which clamps the block -in position at any required distance. At the point marked “P” a “lag” -screw, which is simply a wood screw with a sharp point and a large flat -head, is screwed through the block. The piece of wood to be turned is -held in place by this lag screw and the filed teeth on the gas pipe. - -The pieces of the tool rest are shown in Fig. 4 and Fig. 5. Fig. 6 -shows it as it looks when it is put together in place on the bed of the -lathe. - -Fig. 4 shows the tool rest itself--that is, the part upon which the -chisel or gouge is steadied for cutting. This is fastened upright -upon the end of Fig. 5, which is a standard which extends across -the bed and is clamped in place, as the tail block is, to a block -underneath, except that, instead of being screwed, it is fastened with -a three-eighth inch bolt and nut. - -Fig. 7 shows the whole lathe “assembled,” or put together with each -part marked according to its figure numbers so that you can see just -how it goes. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7] - -All the material it has required has been: - - One old sewing machine. - About fifty cents’ worth of hard wood. - One three-inch lag screw. - One three-eighths-inch bolt five inches long, with nut and washer. - Four iron washers for gas pipe. - One foot of gas pipe. - Seven three-inch wood screws. - A few cents’ worth of Babbitt metal. - -The result is a good practical lathe on which anything up to eight -inches in diameter and twenty-one inches long may be turned; and I -think you’ll all agree that it was well worth the making. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE A TOY TRAIN - - -Clear the track there! Push the crib over in the corner. Pick up those -blocks. Shove the doll’s house and blackboard out of the way. Hurry and -put the old red candy lantern out of sight. We don’t want any danger -signals here. The Twentieth Century Limited--the Fast Special of the -play room--is coming. - -The construction of the Twentieth Century Limited follows close upon -_the making of whittling tools_. A little train it is, just an engine, -coal car, baggage car, and one passenger coach, but of course there -may be any number of additional cars coupled on, provided the train -proves popular and the nursery traffic is heavy. The train is made -from cigar boxes. The floor of the engine is made from a flat piece of -wood, two inches wide by four and one-half inches long, cut perfectly -true and then pointed at one end (Fig. 1). Then the cab is made. Fig. 2 -shows the front of it--a piece of wood measuring two inches by one and -three-quarters, and having two little holes three-eighths of an inch -square cut for windows. The side pieces are an inch and a quarter by -two inches, cut in the shape of Fig. 3, and each has one little window. -The roof is an oblong piece two inches by one and a half. When the -whole cab has been nailed together, it is placed in position on the -floor of the engine, about a quarter of an inch from the rear end, and -nailed there. For the boiler you can use one of mother’s basting thread -spools. Chip off the ends, making them even with the part where the -thread was wound, and then nail it to the floor from underneath. A spot -on the upper side of the boiler is smoothed off, and a tiny spool is -glued on for a smoke stack. The forward wheels are made from circular -pieces an inch in diameter, and the “drivers” from pieces an inch and -a half in diameter. Then there are bearings for the wheels, like Fig. -4, those for the smaller wheels being an inch long, and those for the -larger wheels three-quarters of an inch in length. They are glued to -each side of the floor piece and the axles, made from lollypop sticks, -are slipped through. These are cut three inches long, which allows -plenty of room for the wheels to turn, and for a little nail to be put -through like a cotter pin, to hold them on. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Toy Train.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Toy Train.] - -The coal car floor measures two inches square, the sides two inches -by one, and the ends one and three-quarters by one. These are nailed -together to form a little box, and four wheels and bearings like the -forward ones on the engine are made. The couplings are made from -little round brass hooks, the one on the forward end of each car being -horizontal, and the one in the rear end perpendicular. - -The baggage car is a triumph of whittling, for it has a door that -will slide back and forth just like a real one. The bottom and top of -the car are oblong pieces of wood two inches by four and a half, and -the end pieces measure two by two and a quarter inches. The sides are -made like Fig. 5, with an opening an inch and a quarter square for a -doorway. On the inside of the side pieces, extending to within a half -inch of each end, and starting about an eighth of an inch from the top -a groove is cut, the depth of the groove being about a quarter of an -inch. The door itself is one and thirteen-sixteenths inches high by two -inches wide, and has two very small, flat-headed, wood screws, screwed -in near the top at an angle, so that the heads rest in this groove, and -slide back and forth. Above the door is a strip of wood an eighth of -an inch wide, and outside of this another strip a quarter of an inch -wide, both of which are nailed in position, and keep the door from -slipping out of the groove. Another screw forms a handle for the door, -and when the car is put together it is not at all apparent how the door -slides. Fig. 6 is a section cut through the side, above the doorway, -and shows the groove and how the strips are put on. - -For the passenger car the floor is made first--like Fig. 7--the -car floor itself measuring two inches by four and one-half, with a -projection one inch by five-eighths at each end for a platform. The -sides of the car (Fig. 8), are two inches by four and a half, with -three holes one inch wide by three-quarters high for Pullman windows. -The ends of the car are like Fig. 9. They are slipped over the -platforms, the space one and one quarter inch by a half inch forming -a doorway and the lower ends extending below the platform to form the -side of the steps. The end of the platform is a piece measuring one -inch by two inches, and is nailed in position so that the lower edge of -it is even with the lower edge of the side pieces, the remainder of it -extending above the platform for a railing. There are two steps on each -side at each end--eight steps in all. The bottom ones measure a quarter -of an inch wide and three-quarters of an inch long, while the upper -ones are the same width, but only a half inch long, for they have to -fit in between the ends of the car, and the ends of the platform. The -roof of the car is like Fig. 10--a piece two inches by six and one-half -inches with rounded ends, extending well over the platforms. Both the -passenger and baggage cars have wheels exactly like the coal car. When -these are done the train is coupled, and away she speeds. “Clear -the track there! The Twentieth Century Limited is just pulling into -Chicago, and she has made the trip from New York in eighteen hours.” - - - - -OUT-DOOR TOYS - - -This set of whittled outdoor toys ought to please almost any boy. With -kite and fish line time coming soon and the wind blowing a gale for -your weather vane, and the other fellows out ready to play “cat”--well, -let’s see how to make all these toys. - -The kite stick in Fig. 1 is made from a piece of pine wood eight inches -long, and, roughly cut out, about three-quarters of an inch square. -This is smoothed down to five-eighths of an inch, and then you start -in to make it round. First the four corners of the square are trimmed -off evenly for the full length, making it an eight-sided stick, and -then these corners are again trimmed, until finally the stick is round -enough to be sandpapered smooth. It is better to draw a five-eighth -inch circle on each end of the stick before you trim it down, so that -you can see whether you are making a true round. When the line for the -bevel is marked around one-eighth of an inch from the ends, the bevel -is cut, the notch is cut around the middle, and the stick is ready to -tie your kite string to. - -For the reel in Fig. 2 and also the weather vane in Fig. 7, it is -better to select a piece of wood which is already “dressed”--that -is, finished smooth to the thickness you require, because it is hard -to make a broad surface true with a jack knife. Cigar boxes are -three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and a piece of one will make a -good, stout reel. In making all of these toys, the pattern should be -drawn on the wood as far as possible with pencil, scale, and straight -edge, before any cutting is done. The reel should be cut first into -an oblong, two and a quarter inches by four and a quarter, then the -corners are rounded so that the line will not catch on them, and lastly -the “recessed edge” where the line is to be wound is made, cutting from -each end of the opening toward the center, and gradually working it -down even. - -[Illustration: (A) WHITTLED WEATHER VANE. (B) KITE STICK; “CAT”; REEL -FOR FISH LINE. (C) “CAT” STICK.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Kite Stick, Reel, “Cat,” “Cat” Stick, and -Weather Vane.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Weather Vane.] - -There are not many boys who don’t know how to play “cat.” It requires -a good deal of skill, and if you don’t break anybody’s window or put -out anybody’s eye, it’s a lot of fun. It requires two boys to play this -game. You lay the cat down flat--as in Fig. 3--and, with the stick -(Fig. 4), held by the octagonal end, hit the cat sharply on one -end, and as it flies up bat it forward. It is up to the other fellow -to catch it, and if he does, it counts you out, and gives him a turn. -But if he doesn’t catch it, you measure with the stick, end over end -from where you stand to where the cat has fallen, and that counts so -many points for you. Then the other fellow has another chance to count -you out by throwing the cat from where it fell and trying to hit your -stick. If it falls short or goes beyond, you again measure the distance -with your stick, and that too counts in your favor. - -The cat is made from a piece of pine four inches long and an inch -square. The center section is marked off and then a line is drawn -exactly across the middle of each end--not diagonally, but straight -up and down. The sides are slanted down to this line, like a wedge, -and then the other two sides are slanted to the middle point at each -end. The wood for the stick is twelve inches long and five-eighths of -an inch square, and is worked down just as the kite stick was, except -that the handle is left eight sided, while the rest is made round. The -octagon and circle which are shown with parallel diagonal lines on them -are “cross sections” and show what the stick would look like if it -were cut straight through at that point. - -The weather vane is the hardest toy to make. Fig. 5 shows three -views of one piece of the wheel--a top view, a front view, and an -end view,--just as though you looked at the piece in front and then -squarely at the top, and then turned it around and looked at the end. -A piece of wood three-quarters of an inch square by five inches long -is used for this, and two of them are made and fitted together--making -a wheel with four arms. It is better to cut the section for the joint -first, for the wood is less apt to split before it has been weakened -by any other cutting. This is a similar cutting to that in the reel, -except that the grain lies in the opposite direction, and the cutting -should be done from the center of the opening toward each end. Then -opposite corners are slanted down so that the ends of the arms are thin -and aslant to catch the wind, as the end view shows. The dotted lines -are the edges which are not visible. After the two pieces are fitted -together a two-inch nail is driven through both and into the end of -Fig. 6, which is not beveled. It should be turned around until it works -loosely and will turn easily in the wind. - -The stick in Fig. 6 is seven and three-eighths inches long by a half -inch square. After the section three-quarters of an inch long, where -the nail hole is shown, and which remains square, is marked off, the -rest of the stick is made eight sided. Then the eight-inch bevel shown -on the end is cut, and, for a distance of two and a half inches from -that end, a V-shaped groove is cut on two opposite sides. This end of -the stick is to slide into the opening in the end of the wing (Fig. 7). -Another two-inch nail joins this piece to the upright stick (Fig. 8) -and forms a pivot for it to swing around on. The wing is a flat piece -six and a half inches long by two and a half wide. The curves are laid -out with a compass (R. in the measurements denotes radius) and the -2-1/2″-opening is made as shown in one end. The little cross-section -shows how it is cut to a pointed edge which slides into the groove in -Fig. 6. - -The upright stick is nine inches long by three-quarters of an inch -square, and is worked down similarly to the other sticks, except that -the end which is round is tapered from three-quarters to one-half inch. -The “break” in the drawing simply means that it is longer than is -actually shown. When the windmill is fitted together and put out where -it will catch the wind, a boy will find that it was well worth making. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DESK SET - - -A desk set is a great addition to a boy’s desk. If he has a pen tray -he knows where his pencils and pens are to be found without rummaging -through a tangled mess of top strings and marble bags and nails. If -he puts away on the bill file that _I Owe You_ that Billy Smith gave -him for a pair of rabbits, it won’t be all crumpled up and beyond -identification when Billy gets his next month’s allowance. When you -come to think of it, a desk set has a great many advantages--and then, -there’s the fun of making it. - -The desk set which is shown in the picture comprises five pieces--an -ink well stand, a bill file, a pen tray, an envelope opener, and a book -rack. It is all, with the exception of the envelope opener, made of -one-eighth-inch basswood. - -For the ink well stand (Fig. 1) use a piece of wood, four inches -square. The two-and-a-half-inch opening--which is the size of the -average glass ink well--should be cut first, before the corners are -weakened by cutting out the half-inch rounds. After this is done, cut -the corners, and last, the eight-inch bevel. Fig. 2 shows one of the -feet of the ink well. It is shown, by dotted lines, in position in -Fig. 1. The four feet are glued to the bottom of Fig. 1 and the inside -corners project inside the opening, making four half-inch squares on -which the ink well may rest. The feet are made from pieces of wood one -and seven-eighths inches square, cut in the shape shown, and ornamented -with a little design in “chip” carving. This chip carving is ordinarily -done with what is called a skew chisel--that is, a chisel which is not -square at the end, but which has one point an eighth of an inch or -more longer than the other, so that when it is put into the wood, one -end of the cut will be deep while the other is barely cut out at all. -However, it may be done with a jack knife, if you are very careful. -In the “motif” shown in Fig. 2, the points where the three lines from -adjoining corners meet are where the deepest part of the cuts should -be. This is done with the knife held point down and the thumb on the -end of the handle. Then, with the knife still in the same position in -the hand, you chip out the wood with a sliding cut toward you, slanting -it down to the depth of the cut. It is a little difficult to -describe this without seeing it done, but if you look at the patterns -and the photographs, and experiment a little on a piece of wood, you -will find it easy. - -[Illustration: (A) FILE. (B) INK WELL. (C) PEN TRAY.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of an Ink Well Stand, a Bill File and a Pen -Tray.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Pen Tray, an Envelope Opener and a Book -Rack.] - -Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 show the bill file. Fig. 3 is made from a three and -a quarter-inch square, cut similarly to the foot of the ink well, and -with the same motif carved on each corner. It should be remembered in -cutting the recessed edges that the sides running _with_ the grain must -be cut _from_ each end, and the cross-cut sides cut _toward_ each end. -Fig. 4 is cut like Fig. 1, except that there is no opening in it. It -is then glued to the top of Fig. 3, and a three-inch nail is driven up -through the center. - -Fig. 5 shows one side of the pen tray. It is made from a piece of wood -nine inches long at the bottom, tapered to seven and three-eighths -inches at the top, and one and seven-eighth inches wide. The motif -for the carving is made by putting together two of the squares shown -in Fig. 2 and then repeating this again and again. It makes a very -pretty and effective decoration. Fig. 6 is one of the end pieces, -and is decorated in the same way. Fig. 7 is a cross-section showing -the construction of the pen tray. For this you should first make two -oblongs, seven and three-eighth inches long, one of them being one -and three-eighths, and the other, one and one-half inches wide. These -are fastened together at right angles, the long one topping over the -shorter, with tiny nails. Then a piece measuring two inches by one and -one-quarter is nailed to each end, to hold the tray firm. Next, the top -edge all around is beveled--the side edges, so that the sides (Fig. 5) -may be fitted on straight up and down, and the ends, at such an angle -that they will not interfere in putting on the end pieces (Fig. 6). -Then the sides and ends are glued in position, and the tray is finished. - -For the envelope opener in Fig. 8, a piece of gumwood five and a half -inches long by a half inch square is used. For two and a half inches -from the end it is reduced to an octagonal shape. Then the notches -are cut, and the end of the handle--four sides only, not the entire -eight--beveled. Then the blade is cut, curving down from the handle, -and reducing the blade to an even thickness of an eighth of an inch. -When this is quite even the end is pointed, and the entire outside edge -of the blade is beveled down from both sides, to a cutting edge. - -[Illustration: BOOK RACK] - -The base of the book rack (Figs. 9 and 10), is made from two pieces of -wood measuring four inches by nine, which are cut as shown, to fit -and slide within each other. It measures thirteen inches, closed, and -sixteen inches, open. A good way to fasten the pieces together so that -they will slide easily and yet be firm, is with strips of thin sheet -brass, which can be bought very cheaply. A strip three-quarters of an -inch wide is passed around the rack at D with both pieces in position, -lapped and fastened to D. Another similar piece is passed around at C -and fastened to C. Then the ends (Fig. 11) are made. This requires two -pieces four inches wide by four and a half long, with the grain running -up and down. The top is made a little prettier by a semi-circular curve -and a reverse quarter circle at each side of it. The deep carving is -a trifle more elaborate than on the other things, and must be done -carefully where the cuts all meet at the bottom. - -After measuring and finding the position of the points “a” and “b” -you should use these as centers from which to make the curves which -determine the outline of your design. The cutting is done exactly as -you did before. When these are finished they should be fastened on top -of the base, at either end, with little brass hinges on the inside. A -strip of wood four inches long by three-quarters of an inch wide is -placed at the lower edge of the end pieces, on the outside, for added -strength, and the screws fastening the hinges will hold it in place. - -This completes the actual making of the desk set. It may be -sandpapered, or it may be varnished, or, if you are fortunate enough -to have a mission desk, it may be stained to match. In any case it is -worth having. - - - - -WILD ANIMALS YOU CAN MAKE - - -With a circus folder or animal book for a copy, a few old cigar boxes, -and a jack knife, a very lively and life-like menagerie can be made. - -Cut the cigar boxes apart, and sandpaper the pieces very smooth. -Then take a pencil and sketch as well as you can the animals in the -pictures--at least the bodies of them, for the legs are to be attached -afterward, so that they can stand and “do things.” - -The cutting must be done very, very carefully, for the outlines make -so many different angles with the grain of the wood. It is not in -the least like straight cutting with the grain, or even straight -cross-cutting, and the wood has an irritating habit of splitting off -some vital part of the animal’s anatomy. - -It is impossible to make the tails out of wood, so they are made of -heavy string, glued in place. For the monkey, you can make a tail of -wire, so that he can swing by it. - -[Illustration: Patterns of Hippo and Tiger.] - -[Illustration: WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS - -Giraffe, Camel] - -[Illustration: Patterns of Monkey and Giraffe.] - -[Illustration: Patterns of Bear and Lion.] - -[Illustration: WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS - -Bear, Lion, “Darwin”] - -Make the legs of the animals separately and fasten them on to the -bodies with tiny nails. Place the two fore legs or two hind legs in -position on either side of the body piece, and drive through them a -short wire nail, a very little longer than is necessary to go through -the three thicknesses of wood. Then rest the head of the nail on a -piece of iron, and hammer the point, forming a little rivet to pivot -the legs. The feet must also be made separately, and fastened on in the -same way, so that, whatever position the legs are in, the feet will -remain level. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE A SET OF MISSION FURNITURE - - -A very attractive set of furniture suitable for a doll’s nursery, -may be whittled from pieces of old cigar boxes. It consists of four -pieces--a “Craftsman” bed, a chair, a table, and a chest of drawers. - -For the head of the bed take a piece of wood four inches square, and, -placing it with the grain of the wood running up and down, mark it out -like Fig. 1. As a general rule, the grain of the wood should lie with -the longest dimension, but in all the upright pieces of this set it -must run up and down. Outline first the “recessed edge,” which forms -the legs of the bed, scoring it lightly with the point of the knife. -Then cutting a little bit out at a time, and working from the center -toward each end, bring it down to the line. The two openings, an eighth -of an inch by a half inch, for the joints, must be cut with the point -of the knife--the ends first, then the sides, and lastly the wood is -chipped out, and the opening is evened up. The foot of the bed is -identical with the head except that is three inches high instead of -four. - -Next come the side pieces--two pieces seven inches long and one inch -wide, cut like Fig. 2. The half-inch ends slide through the openings -in the head and foot of the bed, and fasten with little wedge-shaped -pegs like Fig. 5. Inside each of these side pieces, and “flush” with -the bottom edge, glue a strip cut like Fig. 3, and fit in five little -slats three and three-eighths inches long by a half inch wide (Fig. 4). -Then, to complete it and make it look as much like a Craftsman bed as -possible, paste on the head a panel of light brown wrapping paper, on -which are four little conventional kittens, painted in Van Dyke brown. - -The top of the table (Fig. 6) is a piece four inches square. The end -pieces (Fig. 7) are cut similarly to the head and foot of the bed, -with the same recessed edge and the same openings, varying only in the -outside dimensions. The sides too (Fig. 8), are similar to the sides -of the bed, except that they are of course, much shorter. Slip them -through the openings in the end pieces, fasten them with four little -pegs, glue the top on, and the table is done. - -[Illustration: DOLLS’ CHAIR AND TABLE, WHITTLED IN MISSION STYLE] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a “Craftsman” Bed, a Table and a Chair.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Chair and a Chest of Drawers.] - -The chair is built on the same general lines as the table and bed. -The chair back (Fig. 9) measures two and a quarter inches wide -by three and one-half inches high, while the front upright piece is -exactly similar but only an inch and one-half high--just high enough -for dolly to swing her feet comfortably. When these and the side -pieces (Fig. 10) are done and put together, glue on a piece one and -five-eighths inches by two and a quarter (Fig. 11) for the seat. - -The construction of the chest of drawers is a little more elaborate. -Make first two side pieces like Fig 12. They measure two and a quarter -inches wide by three and one-half high, and have a recessed edge a -quarter of an inch deep at the bottom to form feet, and three openings -in each side for the partitions between the drawers. There are one deep -drawer at the top, and two shallower ones below it. Make three pieces -like Fig. 13, four inches long by one and three-quarters wide. The -little square and piece for the joint are not exactly in the middle, -and the longer space goes toward the back, but is intended to leave a -little open space of a half inch at the back. - -Next make three pieces for the fronts of the drawers (Fig. 14), two -of them five-eighths of an inch wide, and one measuring an inch and a -quarter. In each of these make two holes for the knobs. The drawers -themselves (Fig. 15) are made of light weight pasteboard. The bottom -dimensions remain the same of course for all--two and three-quarter -inches by two--but the depths of the sides must be one and one-quarter -inches for the wider, and five-eighths of an inch for the narrower -ones. When these are cut out, fold them on the dotted lines to form a -box, with the sides which lap over each other at the front. The knobs -of the drawers are made of large beads. Put a piece of string through -each bead, and then push the two ends of string through the hole in the -front of the drawer, and through a corresponding hole in the pasteboard -drawer itself. Then tie the two ends of string from the right-hand -knob to the two pieces from the left-hand knob in a firm square knot, -accomplishing the triple purpose of holding the knobs in position, -fastening the front piece on to the drawer, and holding the drawer in -shape. An oblong piece of wood two and a quarter inches by three and a -quarter (Fig. 16) makes the top, and another four inches by three and a -quarter forms the back. - -[Illustration: DOLLS’ WHITTLED CHEST OF DRAWERS] - -[Illustration: WHITTLED DOLLS’ BED] - - - - -TOYS THAT HIDE IN THE WOOD BOX - - -The farm barn with its loft hung with cobwebs and the great hay mows, -and the farm wagons to scramble out and in is surely a delight to the -country boy; but if one corner of the barn has a big pile of clean, -smooth blocks and sticks of kindling wood, the charm of the place will -be redoubled. - -A glance, only, at a heap of ordinary, everyday kindling wood will -suggest all sorts of plays to the resourceful boy. With the aid of -a few simple tools, a hammer, a light saw, and some wire nails, the -pieces of wood may be changed into crude, but realistic toys that will -give the little folks quite as much pleasure as any to be found in a -toy shop. - -Look, first, at the building possibilities of a pile of kindling -wood. The long, straight sticks may be balanced on the barn floor to -represent a regiment of soldiers. With penciled faces, and soldier caps -they make very fine little men; and if there are two opposing armies, -a most exciting sham battle may be carried on with horse chestnuts -and green apples for ammunition, and a prize for the general whose -kindling-wood forces stand up the longest. - -A miniature pig pen may be built by piling up kindling-wood sticks in -log-cabin fashion. The sticks selected for the pen should be, as nearly -as possible, of the same length. Two sticks should be laid parallel. -These are then connected by laying other sticks across their ends. The -boy should continue building in this manner until the pig pen is of -a good height. A very fine, fat pig may be made of a small cucumber, -having twigs stuck into his body for legs, one of the vine tendrils for -a curly tail and melon seeds for ears. - -A log house is constructed by building a foundation similar to the -pig pen. The roof is formed by laying a row of sticks, quite close -together, across the top. A family of little clothes pin dolls may live -most comfortably in a kindling wood house. - -In front of the house there should be a strong, rail fence to protect -the inmates from any Indians who may come in while the builder is -away. To build a Virginia rail fence, two sticks of kindling wood -should be crossed in the shape of a letter V. A third stick is added -at a similar angle with the second stick. This form of building is -continued until the fence is of the required length. Going back to the -first stick, a second layer of sticks is started on top of the first -layer; and the fence may be built as high as one wishes by the addition -of a third and a fourth layer. - -There are ever so many playthings that can be built from the wood found -in the wood pile. A boy who is clever with his jack knife will be able -to make a set of ten pins from sticks of kindling wood by carving -little round heads at the ends of the sticks. Very straight bits of -wood which will balance well should be chosen for the ten pins. He can -also carve quaint wooden dolls for the little sister. - -The accompanying illustration shows a toy barnyard that was made by a -group of children. Their only tools were a couple of hammers, a toy -saw, some nails and a jack knife. The only materials used were found in -the wood pile in the wood-shed. - -The barnyard fence is constructed from lath. Long strips are used for -the bars of the fence. The fence posts are bits of lath, also, carved -in six-inch lengths, pointed at the top with a knife, and nailed to -the longer strips. Bits of leather are tacked in place for the gate -hinges. Bits of kindling wood split into narrow sections are nailed -together for the pig pen and the cow shed. Some old wooden boxes are -used for the farm wagon and the wheelbarrow, the curved edges of the -wheelbarrow being made with a jack knife. The box cover is used as -wheel material, two circles being cut out of the soft wood with a jack -knife and fastened to the body of the wagon with dowel sticks. Another -box is mounted on a standard of lath and forms a very realistic pigeon -house. The chicken coops are little wood squares nailed together at -an angle of 90° with bits of lath fastened across the front. With the -addition of a rude barn made from scraps of wood, a dog house--which is -only a small edition of the barn--and a cattle shed, the farmyard is -complete--a crude but unfailing source of amusement for many rainy days. - -[Illustration: TOY BARNYARD MADE OF KINDLING WOOD] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Sled, a Chicken Coop and a Table.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Cart.] - -One of the simplest toys to make of wood basket scraps is a little -play sled. For this you will need three oblong pieces of wood--one of -them (Fig. 1) measuring four inches wide by seven inches long, and the -other two (Fig. 2) measuring two and a half inches wide by nine and -one-half inches long. Some pieces of an old packing box about a half -inch thick will do very nicely for these. Mark the outlines first with -a pencil; then cut them out with the saw, and “true them up” with -a knife--that is, take off the little roughnesses that the saw has -left, and make the edges perfectly straight and square. Next the two -long side pieces which you have made must be shaped. Measure off on the -lower edge (with the piece standing in position as though it were on -the sled), two inches from the front end. Connect this by a line with -the upper front corner, and cut it. Then round off the lower end of -this cut so that it curves into the bottom. Now make a nail hole near -the front end of each side piece for a string to go through, nail the -side pieces to the other oblong which you made for the top, and the -little sled is done. - -Another very simple toy to make of this material is a little chicken -coop. This is made of one square piece of wood and another piece which -is almost square. The first piece (Fig. 3) measures seven inches each -way, and the other one (Fig. 4) measures seven inches in one direction, -and in the other direction seven inches less the thickness of the wood. -This is because one piece laps over the end of the other, and the end -of the first piece forms part of the other side of the coop. When these -pieces are cut and made perfectly square and true, lap the longer piece -over the end of the shorter so that it will be just even with the -surface, and nail in position. For the slats (Fig. 5) cut some strips -an inch wide and thinner than the sides of the coop. Lath is good if -you have it. Two of these strips are ten inches long, two are seven -inches, and two are four inches. The longest ones are nailed across the -open sides of the coop, one on each side, an inch above the bottom. The -middle-sized ones are nailed two inches above these, and the shortest -ones two inches higher. Then the ends of these strips are sawed off -almost even with the coop. - -A little table may be made from one block of wood six inches square, -and four cylinders three and a half inches long. For the table top -(Fig. 6) select a piece of wood about an inch thick. Make this true, -and smooth the top with sandpaper. Then mark on the under side a square -which is four inches on a side, and exactly an inch away from each side -of the table top. At the corner of this inside square are to be made -the holes for the table legs. For these holes you will have to use -a bit and brace, and make the holes one inch in diameter and a half -inch deep. If you haven’t a bit and brace, you can, with a little more -trouble, whittle out the holes. For the table legs (Fig. 7) take four -pieces of wood one inch square and three and one-half inches long. -By whittling off each long corner edge you can make these from square -prisms into octagonal, or eight-sided prisms. Then keep shaving off -these corner-edges until the prisms are so many-sided that they are -practically round. Smooth them with sandpaper, and glue in place in the -holes in the under side of the table top. - -A strong little cart may be made almost as easily as these other wood -toys. Cut from some pieces of wood three quarters of an inch thick, -two side pieces (Fig. 8) measuring three inches by ten inches, two -end pieces (Fig. 9) three inches by five inches, and one bottom piece -(Fig. 10) five inches by eleven and a half inches. In the center of -one of the end pieces make a nail hole for the string to go through. -Nail the sides and ends together, lapping the end pieces over the ends -of the side pieces. Then nail the bottom piece on. For the shafts of -the wheels (Fig. 11) take two pieces of wood nine inches long and one -inch square. For a space of two inches in from each end make the shafts -cylindrical just as you did the table legs, leaving the center portion, -which is five inches long, square. Nail these shafts to the bottom of -the cart at points two and a half inches from each end. Next cut from -1 inch-thick wood four wheels (Fig. 12), three and a half inches in -diameter. These may be cut out roughly with a saw, and worked down to -the marked line with the knife. Then cut in the center of each of these -wheels a hole about one and one-sixteenth inches in diameter--enough -larger than the shaft so that the wheels will turn easily. Slip the -wheels in place, and drive into the shaft from opposite sides, outside -of each wheel, two small finishing nails. These are to keep the wheels -in place, and must be driven in carefully so as not to split the shafts. - -These are all attractive wood basket toys to make, and besides this, -each one of them may be adapted, by enlarging, for some real use. The -sled, with the addition of iron strips for runners, may be really used; -or by using two sleds and an extra board fastened to both so that they -will turn, it may be made into a “bob-sled” or “double.” The chicken -coop, enlarged, will comfortably accommodate the mother hen and her -brood of chicks which are the beginning of every boy’s first poultry -venture. The little table may grow into a flower stand, and the cart, -made larger and stronger, will rival any shop-bought express wagon for -durability and comfort. - -[Illustration: A SET OF DOLLS’ FURNITURE MADE BY GLUEING TOGETHER -BLOCKS OF KINDLING WOOD] - - - - -THE WONDERFUL DODO BIRD - - -A very long, long time ago, in the far off country of Switzerland, -which is the land of high mountains and goats and tourists, there was a -wonderful bird. Nobody ever saw him near by, for he lived in a forest -of alpenstocks, and he had the longest kind of legs, so that no matter -how fast the tourists pulled up the alpenstocks, or how hard they tried -to catch him, he always got away. The only way any one could see him -was to watch the mountain tops, for when the weather was pleasant, he -would climb up and stand there outlined clearly against the sky, his -long legs making him taller than anything around him, and he would -bob up and down--first his head and then his tail, and then his head -again--and wave his plume and call, “Do-do, do-do.” - -The peasants made little dodo birds whittled out of wood, and sold them -to the tourists, and because a real dodo bird was only hatched once -in a blue moon, and there are no more blue moons, why, the ones the -peasants made are the only dodo birds left. And this is how they made -them. - -The foundation of the bird’s body (Fig. 1) is a chunky piece of wood -an inch and a half square by three inches long. On each end of this -is marked a circle--an inch and a half in diameter, which makes it -just touch each edge. Then by cutting from circle to circle, as -nearly straight as possible, the wood is made into a three-inch-high -cylinder. Next one whole end is rounded off like the large end of an -egg. The next steps in making the dodo bird are not quite as simple. A -straight line is drawn all the way around the body, from end to end, -which divides it into two equal parts. At the end of the line which -represents the middle of the bird’s back is measured off a space a -quarter of an inch on either side. This makes a half-inch space which -is the tip of his tail, and from these points lines are drawn on the -flat end surface, to complete the four-sided figure shown in the end -view of Fig. 1, which is the whole end of his tail. It tapers from a -half inch at the top to about a quarter inch at the bottom, and when -it is all finished, the bottom is slanted in a trifle. Next the bottom -part is whittled up in a curve which meets the lower end of the tail, -and the rest of the body is whittled in the shape shown in the side -view of Fig. 1. This part can’t be done by lines because it is a -gradual curve all over. When this is done two flat slanting surfaces -are whittled off for the sides of the tail. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Dodo Bird.] - -Now you are ready to make the grooves for the head and tail feathers -to go in. Part of the lower center line has been whittled off and will -have to be replaced. Then, measuring three-sixteenths of an inch on -each side of this line, make parallel lines which shall extend around -the lower part of the body from the end of the tail to a point on the -front end just a quarter of an inch below the top. A space a half inch -wide is left in the middle of the bottom for the legs to fasten on, and -the rest is to be made into the grooves as shown on the pattern. The -easiest way to do this is to cut as far in as possible, on the parallel -lines which you have drawn, with a small saw. Then chip the wood out -with a small chisel, and, with the chisel held bevel side down, round -out the bottoms of the grooves. If you haven’t such a chisel though, -you can manage with a knife. - -When the body is done, the rest is easier. Fig. 2 shows the head, made -from a piece of wood two and a half inches long by one and one-eighth -wide and a quarter inch thick. The outline is marked and whittled into -shape, and the beak is slanted down to a point. One quarter of an inch -from the end of the neck a hole is made for pivoting, the eyes are -marked in with a pencil, and three rows of marks are made across the -neck with a little pattern marking wheel. These may also be made around -the body and will add to the beauty of the dodo bird. His plume is made -of a soft, downy chicken feather, stuck into a hole in the top of his -head and glued in place. - -The tail feather (Fig. 3) is shaped like the feathered end of an arrow. -The “feathered” part is one inch wide by two and a half long, and -another inch in length forms the pivoting part. This end is a quarter -inch wide and five-sixteenths thick, and the “feathers” are cut in -from each side with a slanting cut as shown in the drawing. The bottom -is left perfectly level, but the top is slanted down, with three flat -cuts, to a sharp edge at the end. A hole is made from side to side, a -quarter of an inch back from the small end, for pivoting. Two small -nails driven through the body, with the head and tail feathers in -position, form the pivots. They must be driven carefully so as not to -split the wood, and must be placed so that the head and tail feathers -will work up and down very freely. - -The legs (Fig. 4) are pieces of wood three and a half inches long, a -half inch wide, and a quarter of an inch thick. They are first whittled -in an elliptical shape. Then the lower part, for a space of two and a -quarter inches is tapered back from the front to give an appearance of -standing very straight. At the upper end, for a quarter of an inch from -the top, half of the wood is cut away, and the remaining part is fitted -into holes cut in the body, three quarters of an inch apart, and glued. - -The standard for the dodo (Fig. 5) is made like a small wooden vise. It -is a flat piece of wood three and a half inches long by two inches wide -and three quarters of an inch thick. One end is beveled slightly, and -one end of the top is curved down slightly. - -In the remaining flat surface on the top two holes are whittled out -into which the dodo’s feet are to be glued. Then a space two inches -long and one inch wide is cut out to form the jaws of the vise. To -tighten the vise there must be some sort of a screw through the lower -jaw. A wooden thumb screw is not easy to get, so the best plan is to -get a bolt about three eighths of an inch in diameter. Then cut a hole -almost as large in your wood, and screw the bolt in, forcing it to -cut its own “thread” in the soft wood. - -[Illustration: THE DODO BIRD] - -Fig. 6 is the weight which makes the dodo work. It is a piece of wood -two and a quarter inches high by an inch and seven-eighths square. This -is made into a cylinder and rounded at one end precisely as you did -with the body. Then a circle is marked around it a quarter of an inch -back from the flat end, and this end is slightly rounded off. It may be -decorated or not, as you choose. - -Now you are ready to make the dodo bird work. Take two pieces of -string--stout, but not too heavy--about twelve inches long. Fasten an -end of one of them--with a tiny wedge and some glue--into the end of -the dodo’s neck, and the other into the small end of the tail. Then -bring the two pieces together and knot them about an inch from the -other end. Fasten these two ends into the top of the weight just as you -did the single ends. - -Now fasten the vise securely on a shelf somewhere, and swing the weight -to and fro like the pendulum of a clock. The dodo will bob first his -head and then his tail and then his head again, and you can almost hear -him calling “Do-do” way off on the mountain there. He’s a source of -never-ending fun, boys, and besides playing with him yourself, you can -just watch and see how few grown-ups can go by him and resist swinging -the pendulum. - - - - -A FLEET OF TOY BOATS - - -Who remembers the mill pond down at the farm, clean, and high, with -trees all about--a capital place for sailing boats? It is so small -that, directly a toy ship is started on its voyage, you can run around -the other side and meet her. - -There is the trout brook, too, down in the woods, where everything is -cool and still. There isn’t a sound as you sit on the bank save when -a mouse comes rustling along, pushing his way through the leaves with -his queer little pointed nose, or a hedgehog plods by, blind and deaf, -never seeing you at all. - -If you should launch a toy boat in the brook, where do you suppose it -would sail to? You will follow it a little way. Sometimes it will get -caught in the ferns, or it may lie for a minute, stranded, on a rock, -or it will overturn as it shoots the rapids. You start it on again with -the long pole you cut from the willow tree, but presently the boat will -sail away, out of a child’s sight, down the brook. - -Perhaps it will pick up a crew of little brownie sailor men. Perhaps -it will stop somewhere to load a cargo of butterfly’s gowns. You will -lose sight of it though. That is what always happens to one’s toy ships. - -A boy can make himself a whole fleet of toy boats to play with in the -mill pond and the trout brook. If one of them does go sailing away to -Fairyland--why, what does it matter with all the rest of the fleet just -tugging away at their ropes, waiting to be launched? - -The little boats are the nicest of all, because one may have so many -of them. Out in the woods there are some of last year’s walnuts lying -on the ground. Split one in half with a jack-knife, and take out all -the meat, leaving the inside smooth and white. Glue a scrap of paper -to a toothpick, and fasten this little mast to the inside of the half -walnut shell with a drop of glue. There is a real fairy craft, fit for -a dragon fly to ride in. Just watch it toss and float and sail away on -the make-believe waves. - -[Illustration: A CORK RAFT] - -[Illustration: A CORK SAIL BOAT] - -There are so many eggs in the barn, you can surely have one. Do you -know how to blow an egg? Make a tiny hole with a pin in each end, -then, by blowing steadily into one end, the contents of the egg may -be emptied out of the other. You will be able to cut the egg shell -lengthwise, now, with your jack-knife. If you have some paper strips -you can bind the edges of the egg boat to make it a trifle stronger. -Glue two paper seats across the top and add a pair of oars made of -toothpicks. A tiny paper doll will enjoy a ride in the egg-shell boat. - -Out in the barn where you found the egg, there is a whole big bin full -of corn cobs. Such light, clean playthings they are! They will make a -stout little raft to float about in the mill pond. You will need to -select eight corn cobs, all of the same size and length. Lay them side -by side on the barn floor. Then split up an old berry basket, and cut -two or more of the thin strips of wood from the side exactly as long as -the raft is to be wide, lay these strips of wood across the corn cobs -and nail them in place with tacks. The corn-cob raft is done. It is so -light that it can be loaded with quite a cargo, two or three rubber -dolls who do not mind the water, or a toy horse, or a rubber pig. Then, -if the current is right, it will float way across the mill pond, and -the toys can land on the other side. - -Corks make a fine raft, too, and such a light one! A cork raft will -almost never sink. You must collect corks for quite a while before you -have enough for the raft. They will need to be of just the same width -and length. Glue five or six corks together by their ends to form a -little cork log. Make a number of these logs, and then fasten them -together as you fastened the corn-cob raft. Another way of making the -cork raft is to run the corks on a bit of fine wire and the logs may -all be wired together in the same way. - -A very large, flat cork, such as mother puts in her pickle jars, will -make a fine little sail boat. All that it needs is a toothpick mast and -a white cambric or paper sail glued on. - -A paper row boat is very easy to make. Choose an oblong of heavy paper -that will not soak with the water quickly. Fold a cocked soldier’s hat. -Every boy knows how to do that. Hold the cocked hat in the middle of -each side and pull it out into a square. Bend back the two open sides -to form another cocked hat, but smaller than the first one. Pull this -out, also, into a square. Then, if you pull hard on the two closed -corners, the paper will open into a fine little row boat. You can fold -so many of these paper boats that a new one may be launched as fast as -the old one sinks. - -A boy who is clever with his jack-knife will be able to make a stout -little sail boat from a piece of an old egg crate, or the side of a -cigar box. The wood must be close grained and light--that is the first -essential. Cut the boat, pointed at one end, and rub it smooth with a -piece of sandpaper. Glue a meat skewer to the center for the mast, and -hoist a little sail. A hole may be bored in the end of the sail boat, -and a long string tied in will allow you to run along the edge of the -brook and keep this little craft from sailing away. - -There are other boats which will want to join this toyland fleet. -Peanut shells may have very tiny paper sails pinned to the ends. A race -between two rival peanut boats will be great fun. - -A cigar box boat may have squares cut from the sides with a knife for -oar locks; with meat skewer oars, it will make a very creditable scow, -flat-bottomed, and perfectly safe for any doll to go clamming in. - -Clam shells may have paper sails fastened on with glue, and any kind of -flat shell loves to go sailing away by itself on the water. - -A strong square of birch bark may be folded and cut rounding at the -ends to resemble a canoe. The ends are then sewed with a needle -threaded with strands of sweet grass or stout cotton, making a tiny -Indian craft. If you wish the canoe to be perfectly water tight, it -can be lined with waxed paper. - -There will be fun for all summer long for the boy who makes and sails -his own fleet of toy boats. - -[Illustration: WHITTLED TOY SAIL BOAT] - - - - -HOW TO MAKE A PLAY TENT - - -Having a tent out in the garden or on the lawn during the summer -vacation makes each long, happy day twice as long, and just twice as -happy. A boy can play that he is an Indian, or a first settler, or a -cave dweller, or even an old story book king if he has even the crudest -kind of a roof over his head and some sort of a play shelter beneath -which he can live and play, and dream all manner of delightful things. - -Of course the nicest tent of all is one from a real tent factory made -of canvas and having staples and pegs to fasten it to the ground, but -such a tent costs ever so much money, and not every mother and father -can afford to buy it. One family of children went without fireworks on -Fourth of July that they might save the money which they would have, -otherwise, burned up and with it they bought themselves a tent which -lasted much longer than the smoke and noise of the fireworks would have. - -There is, though, a very fine tent indeed, and one that will give a -group of boys quite as much pleasure as any manufactured one. This -is the home-made tent. It is the tent that seems to really belong to -you because it is a sort of a makeshift and you make it with your own -hands. There are ever so many ways of making your own tent, all of them -simple and quite easy for one to follow. - -One very strong and serviceable tent has a foundation of straight, -young birch trees or saplings cut in the early spring and used for -tent poles. Holes should be dug, and the poles set in the ground a -quarter their length that no summer wind storm can uproot them. Around -each pole, the earth is then pounded down, and the tops of the poles, -six or eight in number, should be lashed together with cord. A couple -of old army blankets may be stitched together to make a covering for -this tent. A hole is cut in the center and the covering is slipped -over the supports and tied to the base of each pole. There will be -enough extra blanket to make a flap in the front of the tent to act as -a door. If there is a summer shower when the children are playing in -this blanket tent they may pull the flap tight shut, and just snuggle -inside, listening to the raindrops that do not soak through the blanket -covering one bit. - -A second home-made tent has a foundation of bean poles or clothes poles -for supports. These are sunk in the ground and fastened together at -the top as were the saplings used for the blanket tent. The covering, -however, is of brown denim. Twelve yards will make a very good-sized -tent. The lengths are cut to fit the poles used as tent supports; they -are pointed at the top, and stitched together. Tape sewed at the top, -center, and base of each seam, on the inside, may be tied around the -poles and fasten the covering to the props. This tent may be decorated -in such a way that it will make a real patch of color on the lawn or -in the back yard, and will have the appearance of an Indian’s wigwam. -Red and green, or yellow denim is used for the decorations. Small -conventionalized trees, moons, stars, leaves, or any preferred designs -are cut from the colored cloth and stitched to the brown covering. -Another way of decorating the denim tent is to paint pictures on it -with stencil colors, using stencil patterns of Indians, animals, or -flowers. These colors are “fast” and the rain will not wash them off as -is apt to happen in the case of designs applied with colored cloth. - -A flower tent is a new sort of playhouse and is quite delightful in -sunshiny weather. When it rains you can watch your tent grow from the -house windows. It will be wise to select a fence corner, where a row -of castor beans will sprout in a night almost to help form the back of -the tent. Between these castor plants, there may be some quick-growing -vine planted; mock orange, morning glory, or moon flower. As the seeds -sprout and the vines begin to grow, they should be twined upon strings -which extend up the fence and across the top between the two sides of -the fence, forming the tent roof. Before summer is over, this roof -will be a thick one as the vines increase their leaves and the leaves -themselves grow larger and more lavish of their shade. After a while -they will hang over the front of the tent helping to form a third side, -and when the tent bursts into blossom the children who live inside it -will feel almost as if they were in fairyland. - -These tents all take time to make, but there are other home-made tents -that can spring up in a day in the garden. A very little boy can set up -grandfather’s big green umbrella for a tent and have a pleasant time -sitting under it. The handle can be buried a little way in the ground -and there will be plenty of room beneath its delightful green shade for -a boy and a picture book, or a little girl and her doll. To make this -umbrella tent still more snug and sheltering, grandmother’s shawl can -be draped around it, or a rug may be pinned to the edges to form the -back and walls. - -Two boys who live next door to each other and are the friendliest of -neighbors can make a tent that they can share. The village carpenter -will furnish four stout pine posts a little taller than the fence -between the boys’ homes is high. Two of these posts are set up on one -side of the fence about eight feet from the fence itself, and two on -the other side in just the same position. The ticking cover of an old -feather bed may be cut down to the right size, and nailed to the posts -for a roof. A couple of old sails may be cut into straight curtains -for the sides of the tent, with strips of lath in the hem so that they -can be rolled up in pleasant weather. The tent is very cozy when it is -finished, and before the summer is over nearly every boy in town will -have been up to visit these boys in their little two-room tent. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN TOPS - - -Some toys don’t know how to play. They just stand still and wait for -a child to carry them around the garden or drag them by their strings -across the nursery floor. They have no proper play spirit, these lazy -toys, but that isn’t the case with a top. Given a fair chance, just a -fine, long string and a smooth sidewalk--why, a top will play with a -child all day long. It will twirl and whirl, never stopping to rest for -long, and singing all the time its quaint little humming song to keep -tune and time with its spinning. - -You can buy a top for a penny at the toy shop, but it is just a plain, -ordinary sort of wooden top exactly like all the other tops. How -would you like to make your own tops? It will be the easiest task in -the world to do this, and a whole lot of fun, too. The materials for -home-made tops grow out of doors and are lying close at hand at home, -in the wood-shed, or in the cellar. - -Sharpen your jack-knife, and you may start out top hunting, at once. - -A beet makes a queer little top that will spin gayly for a day, and -if it breaks on the sidewalk or curbing, why you may pull up another -top from the beet patch in the garden. The picture shows you a beet -top that looks like a very own cousin to a wooden top because it is -just the same shape, and the same size. There should be a pointed peg -whittled from a scrap of soft kindling wood and stuck in the pointed -end of the beet. The beet top is then wound with a string that has a -small button mold or a little china button on the end and when you -throw it as you do an ordinary wooden peg top, it will spin finely. -A small turnip will make a top, too, if it has a whittled peg, and a -little radish makes a fine top, save that it is too small to be wound -up and should have a bit of toothpick stuck in opposite the peg to -twirl it by. - -[Illustration: WHITTLED CLOWN TOP] - -The woods as well as the garden are full of tops. Let us go out top -gathering under the nut trees some fine, frosty morning, taking the -heroic little jack-knife, too, to help finish the tops. Fat acorns -make splendid tops. A bit of twig should be whittled down to the right -size and stuck in the flat end of the acorn by which to spin it. Every -acorn has a fine point upon which to spin and a half dozen of these gay -little acorn tops may be set spinning at once by a group of children -in a top contest to see which will keep twirling longest. Horse -chestnuts may be used for tops, too, if a child selects the very round, -flat kind of nut. Horse chestnuts gathered when they first fall from -the tree are soft and easily bored with an awl or darning needle, or -the smallest blade of a jack-knife. A hole should be made exactly in -the center of the nut and a perfectly straight piece of twig inserted, -pointed at one end and extending a half inch above the horse chestnut -at the top to hold it by. Another way to make a horse chestnut top is -to cut the nut in half, crosswise, and insert halves of toothpicks in -each section, making two tops instead of one. - -When the shut-in days come in the winter and it is too late to pick -your tops out in the garden or gather them in the woods, it will be -ever so much fun to see how many tops you can make of the materials -you are able to find at home. The wood that is used in a cigar box is -soft and easily whittled, and just one box will furnish material for -countless tops. The queer little circus clown in the picture spins -on the tips of his toes if a top string is wound about the long peg -protruding from the top of his head. He is not one bit difficult to -make. The outline of a clown in a picture book is drawn on a sheet of -tracing paper with a soft pencil and then transferred to a piece of -the soft wood. If a boy has a jig saw it will be very easy to cut the -little outlined clown in a jiffy, but it can be done in almost as short -a time with a sharp jack-knife. When the clown is cut, his features are -drawn in with charcoal or a soft pencil. If you spin him hard enough, -he will rise right up off the ground once in a while and then settle -down again and go on spinning. If a child has a book of brownies he can -make a brownie top in the same way that the clown top was made. The -brownie will spin on the tips of his little pointed toes. - -The top in the picture that has a series of circles of different sizes -will be ever so easy to make. The circles, each a half inch smaller -than the one which is to be above it, are drawn on soft wood, and are -then cut out with a jack-knife. A hole is cut in the center of each -circle and they are fitted on a piece of wooden meat skewer, the point -of the meat skewer forming the spinning end of the top. With a box of -water color paints the circular disks of the tops are then painted in -gay contrasting colors and the effect will be charming when the little -top begins to spin. - -[Illustration: (A) BEET TOP. (B) TOP MADE OF GRADUATED DISKS. (C) -BUTTON MOLD TOP.] - -Button molds make tops. The big wooden molds that the tailor uses -for coats are best to make into tops. The hole in the center must be -enlarged to admit of a sharpened end of a meat skewer being inserted. -These button mold tops may be painted, too, and a splendid game can be -played with them on the nursery table. Two stakes may be set up--the -stakes from a parlor croquet set will do nicely--at the opposite ends -of the table. The boys playing the game then choose colors and spin -their button mold tops, whipping them with tiny whips made of meat -skewers and colored twine, and trying to see whose top will make the -distance between stakes first at the one spinning. - - - - -THE FARM THE SCISSORS BUILT - - -It will be almost as fine as a real farm when it is finished and ever -so much easier to make, because one will not need any boards, or tools, -or huge nails to use in putting it together. - -What do you suppose the barn is made of? Why, just a big piece of heavy -wrapping paper that some one has brought to the house, and then has -dropped on the hall table to be thrown away because it does not seem to -be of any use now its wrapping days are over. - -[Illustration: Folding for Barn.] - -First, one should cut the heavy wrapping paper into a large square. -Then fold the square into sixteen small squares like the folding -indicated in the diagram. Some of the lines in the diagram are dotted. -Those show how the square is folded to make the little squares. Some -of the lines are solid, heavy lines. Those are the lines to be cut. -Make these cuts very carefully with scissors. There will be three cuts, -each one square long and one square apart on two opposite sides of -the paper. The two middle squares which are marked “a” in the diagram -should be superimposed. That is a very, very long word, is it not? It -means something very simple, though. These two squares are laid, one on -top of the other, and are glued into place. Next, the squares marked -“b” are brought together and their edges are glued. Then--one end of -the wrapping paper barn is finished. Glue the squares at the other -end of the barn in the same way, and cut a wide barn door. The door is -made by cutting on a vertical crease on one side of the house, making -two other cuts at right angles with the first one, and folding back the -two sides of the door at the opening. If you want a window where you -can toss hay up into the barn loft, it may be cut just above the door. -A boy who has seen the inside of a real barn will be able to cut some -strips of the heavy paper, and paste them together, fastening them to -the back wall of the barn to show where the cow and the horse stalls -are. - -Some more strips of paper may be pasted together to form a barnyard -fence. The barn may stand on the nursery table with the fence all -around it, or an old suit box of mother’s will make a very fine -barnyard indeed. The sides of the box should be ruled with a pencil -to look like the bars in a real barnyard fence. Then you can cut the -bars with a jack-knife, or some sharp pointed scissors. When you have -finished the suit-box barnyard, the barn may stand in one corner of it. - -Now you are ready to cut some animals to live in the barn. - -The pictures in your animal picture books will make splendid patterns -for the barnyard animals. Trace the animals with some tissue paper -and then transfer these patterns to some stiff paper. When you have -cut carefully on the traced outline, you may paste the animal’s feet -to cardboard standards to make them stand up. There may be cows, and -horses, and a donkey, and a whole flock of barnyard fowls. Then you may -color the barn creatures with your water color paints or with colored -pencils. - -[Illustration: Finished Barn.] - -You can make a fine, large farm wagon, also, to stand beside the barn. -To make the wagon, you should fold a small square of paper as you -folded the large one for the barn. Instead of using the whole square, -though, as you did for the barn, you must cut off a strip of four -squares. Then make the short cuts as you did for the barn in the -ends of the oblong piece of paper. Lay the three square laps which you -have made by the cutting together, and paste them--one on top of the -other. Cut out some wheels and fasten them to the cart. Glue on some -cardboard or sticks for shafts, and the farm wagon is done. - -[Illustration: CART, BARN AND BARROW, MADE OF CARDBOARD BOXES] - -If you want a wheelbarrow in the barnyard, you may cut one of mother’s -old spool boxes in half. The edges where you made the cut should be -curved. A wheel made of an empty spool, or a cardboard disk may be -fastened to one end with a pin, and some cardboard legs may be glued to -the wheelbarrow. - -When the paper farm is complete, you must harness the donkey to the -wagon, and set him to work. Cut out some of the gay pictures of fruit -and vegetables that fill the seed catalogues, and load the wagon. - -Fill the wheelbarrow, too. Cut out some paper overall boys to visit the -farm and spend the summer. There is no end to the plays that the paper -farm will suggest to you. - - - - -MORE BOX PLAYS - - -One of father’s empty note paper boxes, a starch box, a box that held -spools of thread once--one, or all of these will furnish delightful -play material for an afternoon in the house. A box has not finished its -usefulness when its contents are gone. It is strong and tough often -still, and ready for all kinds of fun. - -Some cardboard boxes, large and small, will make the toy farm -establishment shown in the picture. A box that once was filled with -writing paper serves for the barn. The box stands on one side, leaving -the entire front open that toy animals can be put in and taken out with -greater ease than if there were a door. The long edge of the box cover -is cut to fit the box, inserted and glued in place to form the front -of the stalls which hold the toy animals. Shorter lengths of the cover -edge are fitted in between the back of the box and this front partition -to separate the stalls and are also glued in place. When these are in, -a door can be cut. The stalls must be furnished with little grain -boxes for the play horses to eat from; and this is the way to make them. - -Measure with a school ruler and cut out a four-inch square of heavy -wrapping paper. Lay the paper on a table in front of you and fold, -first, the front edge up to the back, and then the front and back edges -down to meet the center fold. Now turn the paper around, repeating the -folding until there are sixteen squares. Cut off a row of four squares, -leaving an oblong piece of paper that contains twelve squares. Make two -cuts in the opposite narrow ends of the paper, one square long and one -square apart. Fold up these squares and paste them, one on top of the -other, forming a little oblong box. One of these boxes pasted to the -back of each stall looks just like a grain trough, and may be filled -with oats, if a country boy is making the farm, for the little horse to -eat. - -Some of the wrapping paper that remains after the grain boxes are -finished makes the roof of the barn. Cut a strip as wide as the barn is -deep and once and a half as long. Fold it once through the center and, -at the ends, fold down flaps by means of which the roof can be glued to -the top of the box forming a hay loft. When spring comes you can cut -grass blades with a pair of gardener’s shears, dry them in the sun, -and fill the loft of this little box barn with real, play hay. - -[Illustration: CIRCUS PARADE (THE CAGE IS MADE OF A SHOE BOX)] - -A box in which the apothecary packs his powders makes the little farm -cart in the picture, and another one the wheelbarrow. No cutting is -necessary for the cart, but some of the cardboard left in the cover -of the note paper box can be used for wheels. A fifty-cent bit is -the right size for the wheels. Lay one on the cardboard, and draw -carefully around it with a pencil, cutting four of these wheels with -a pair of sharp scissors. Brass paper fasteners will make strong hubs -for the little wheels. Pierce a hole through both wheel and box before -inserting the fastener, though, to help the wheel to turn. A strip of -the box cover glued to the front of the cart serves for the handle. - -The wheelbarrow is just a little more difficult to make than these -other toys, but not too great a task for a child with clever fingers. -A section that is about one third of the entire length is measured and -cut off the second small box, and thrown away. It is the remaining -two-thirds of the box that is to make the wheelbarrow. The front, open -edges of the box are now curved like the sides of a real wheelbarrow. -Two narrow strips of the cover, or two small sticks are glued to -the front of the wheelbarrow for handles, and two shorter lengths of -cardboard or two very tiny sticks form the legs. Another cardboard -circle cut the same size as those used for the cart wheels is inserted -by means of a knife cut in the back of the barrow and helps it to -trundle along. - -The box-built cart and wheelbarrow will be found most useful in the -spring. They can be loaded with little green apples, tiny brown pebbles -that look like toy potatoes, corn kernels, or peas. They will be strong -enough to last a whole season and help to carry fodder to the horse who -lives in the box barn. - -There is still more box fun. Ask mother for an empty cardboard starch -box, the strong kind covered with blue paper, and see what a fine -little toy garage it will make. Almost every child has a toy automobile -given him for Christmas, but it is so apt to go steering away with its -own gasoline, and losing itself somewhere in the house if a child has -no special place in which to keep it. - -Take the cover of the box and turn the box itself bottom side up. On -one side, right in the center, draw a big square. The lower part of -the square should come on the very outside edge of the box because -this square is to be the garage door. The door should be made in two -parts, so as to open very wide and admit the automobile when it comes -steaming along in a great hurry. To make this double door, draw a -perpendicular line that divides the square into two parts. Then, with a -pair of sharp scissors cut right up this line to the top of the square. -Next, cut along the top line to the right and left of the middle line. -Folding back the two halves that have just been cut, out toward the -outside of the box, makes two little doors and opens the front of the -garage. Square windows can be cut in the sides of the box, as many as -one wishes. - -A number of empty thread boxes will make a splendid train of cars, -strong enough to drag a whole family of china dolls or a load of live -stock up and down the piazza or along the garden path. Cardboard -circles cut from the covers of the thread boxes and of the same size -as those used for the wheels of the toy cart make the car wheels. They -are fastened on, either in similar fashion to the cart wheels by means -of paper fasteners, or a bone collar button may be pushed through -cart and wheel, helping the wheels to revolve more easily. One of the -thread boxes has the cover glued on, and to the top is glued also one -large wooden spool for the engine’s smoke stack, and a block for the -engineer’s cab. These little box cars are coupled together by short -lengths of braided cord. Holes are punched in the ends of the cars with -an awl and the cord is pushed through and knotted at each end to hold -it in place. A long piece of cord is fastened to the engine and is used -to draw the cars by. - -There is no end to the entertainment and fun to be had from a pile of -empty boxes. Just get to work at a few of them your next free afternoon -and find out how much they are able to help you in your play. - -[Illustration: (A) THE ARK (B) CARDBOARD ANIMALS WHO LIVE IN THE ARK] - - - - -A RECIPE FOR A NOAH’S ARK - - -It isn’t a very difficult recipe to follow. All the stirring you need -to do will be when you mix up some flour and a little water to make the -paste. That is the first ingredient. Next in the recipe comes a pair -of sharp scissors and a pencil. After that you must find some sheets -of heavy paper, and the old animal picture books that you thought you -could not enjoy any longer because the leaves were coming apart and the -pictures were torn. Spread out all these things on the nursery table, -and you will be ready to begin the Noah’s Ark. - -The Ark itself is to be a big, strong envelope for holding all the wild -animals, and this is how you must make it. One of the sheets of heavy -paper should be folded in half. The folded edge forms the bottom of the -envelope. Beginning with this folded edge, the outline of the Ark is -drawn on the paper with your pencil. It is a simple outline to draw--a -big boat with curved ends, and a sort of house resting on the top. -Then, holding the folded edge tightly so that the paper will not slip, -cut out the Ark. The ends of the Ark should be bound or glued, but the -top is left open that the animals may be put in. - -Windows and a door are cut in the Ark for the animals will want to look -out as they sail away on their wonderful voyage, and the Ark may be -painted bright red with green trimmings. - -Next come the animals. - -The pictures of the animals may be mounted on one of the remaining -sheets of heavy paper, so they will be stiff enough to stand up alone. -That is one way of making enough animals to fill the Ark, but there is -another way that will take a little longer, but will prove ever so much -more fun. - -The loose pictures from the book of animals should be fastened to the -table with thumb tacks, or tacked to a drawing board. A square of white -tissue paper is then laid over each, and the outline of the animal’s -body is traced with a soft pencil. When the tracing is finished, the -tissue paper is carefully lifted off and laid with the plain side up -on some stiff white cardboard. The outline is then retraced with the -same soft pencil leaving a pattern of the animal on the cardboard. The -animal is then cut out, and painted with the nursery water colors. - -[Illustration: GOING ABOARD THE ARK] - -You will need to be very clever, indeed, to paint the animals so -that they will look as if they were just fresh from the jungle. There -must be a tawny lion colored with brown that has a great deal of yellow -ocher mixed with it. The panther must be orange with big yellow spots, -and large green eyes. The tiger’s eyes must have yellow mixed with the -green paint and his coat is yellow with orange stripes. The bear is -brown and the kangaroo is tan. - -There should be two of each kind of animal. Now how shall you make -them stand up and walk like real, live animals? Some very tiny bits of -wood may be glued to their feet. That is one way of making the animals -stand. Another way is to make a narrow ring of the same cardboard from -which the animals were cut. The animals’ feet are then glued to this -ring, and they will really stand. - -A boy will be able to make more animals than he can count,--leopards, -monkeys, zebras, elephants, as many as he can find patterns for in his -toy picture books. And it will prove such fun to draw them and paint -them that he will be kept busy for many rainy afternoons. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN UNIFORM - - -Every boy needs to be a soldier, once in a while. There are so many -brave deeds to be done and so many cowardly things to fight, and so -much dark to walk through courageously, and so many strange dogs and -cats, and shy little girls to protect with all the gallantry of those -old, old knights who lived in the story-book days. A soldier boy is -never late for school, and he never, never forgets to do an errand. He -goes to bed alone every evening at eight, even if the stairway is dark, -and there is no light in the upstairs hall to chase away the ghosts. -He never lies, and he is always cheerful. He knows that being brave -and gallant and true is just as much a part of a soldier’s duty as -marching, and drumming, and saluting Old Glory. - -It isn’t easy to be a soldier though in a plain, everyday suit of -clothes, made of homespun perhaps, and patched, and dingy brown in -color. A real soldier suit cut and fitted the right size for a boy -costs more money than there is in the boy’s tin bank. What is the boy -going to do if he wants more than anything else to be a soldier and he -hasn’t enough money to buy himself a suit? - -Any boy will be able to make the soldier trappings shown in the -picture, and when he puts on the cap, and the shield, pins the epaulets -to his shoulders and sticks the play sword in his belt, he will be -ready for the life of a little soldier. He can work or play cheerfully, -and when it comes Saturday, or Washington’s Birthday, he will be the -envy of all the other boys as he leads them in a fine parade, dressed -in his gay, home-made soldier things. - -Suppose we make the soldier’s cap first. The diagram marked Fig. 1, 2, -3, and 4, shows just how to do the construction. A bright red cap will -be fine for the soldier, or a blue one just the color of the blue field -in the flag. There is a kind of tough, half-heavy paper called book -cover paper. One can order it from a stationer’s shop or a printing -factory at a cent or two a sheet. Some sheets of this will make the -boy’s own cap and enough for all the other soldiers in the regiment. -A piece of paper that measures fourteen by twenty inches is the -foundation for the soldier cap. Fold the two narrower edges together -until they touch, and crease the paper through the center as shown in -Fig. 1. Then with the paper still folded, make a second fold as shown -by the line in Fig. 2. This line forms a guide line for the next two -folds which make the point of the cap. Lay the papers, open, as in Fig. -1, on a table with the folded edge at the back; fold each half of the -back edge down along the line made by the last folding. Then fold up -and crease the lower open edges forming the rim of the cap. The rim -should be glued down to make the cap firm and strong. A feather can be -made by fringing strips of red or blue crépe paper and twisting them -around a narrow strip of cardboard which is glued inside the rim of -the cap. A turkey’s feather will do just as well, or a bunch of hen’s -feathers, or a cockade made of red, white, and blue ribbons to decorate -the cap. - -A boy can find a splendid shield pattern in the back of the dictionary. -Copy it, and enlarge it until it is the right size to cover a boy’s -shirt bosom. Then draw it on heavy white cardboard, and cut it out. A -good size for the shield will be eight by ten inches. When it is cut it -can be decorated with stars and stripes with colored pencils or paints -as shown in the picture. The stripes are drawn carefully with a ruler -and filled in with color; one red and one white. The blue ground above -the stripes is dotted with stars cut from gilt paper and pasted on. -Two holes are punched in the sides of the shield, and a bit of cord is -strung in by means of which the shield may be hung around a boy’s neck. -It will make his heart beat faster and give him a whole lot of courage -every time he looks down at its brave stars and stripes. - -Now for the sword which looks like a formidable weapon in the picture, -but is really not dangerous at all. Every boy knows how to roll a -narrow piece of paper, and make a lamp lighter. The sword that is -part of this home-made soldier suit is made in just the same way. Cut -some narrow strips of the book cover paper and join them with glue -until there is a long strip. Roll this strip of paper tightly, in lamp -lighter fashion, until it is fifteen inches long. Then press it flat -between heavy weights. Roll a second strip of paper for a length of six -inches and glue it to the broad end of the sword as a handle. These -swords are so delightfully easy to make that a boy will want to roll a -dozen after he has made his first one, and he can arm himself with as -many paper poniards as an Indian chief has arrows in his quiver. - -[Illustration: (A) PATTERN FOR SOLDIER’S CAP (B) THE FINISHED UNIFORM: -CAP, SHIELD, SWORD AND EPAULETS] - -The soldier’s epaulets are just five by two inch strips of the book -cover paper cut to fit a boy’s shoulders and decorated with fringed -red and blue tissue paper. They can be pinned to the soldier’s coat -shoulders with safety pins and will make an ordinary play suit quite as -military in appearance as any uniform. - -When the boy soldier is dressed in this home-made uniform, which will -be even more effective than any which is for sale in a toy shop, he -will be ready for any adventure in addition to the brave prowess of -everyday life. Perhaps he and the other boys will want to take one of -mother’s old blankets and two or three clothes poles for a tent, and -tramp as far as the woods for a day of real scouting. Every soldier -has a knapsack for carrying provisions and this play soldier will need -one, too. A large, flat box makes a fine knapsack. Inside can be packed -a bundle of sandwiches, two or three apples, a doughnut or two, and a -piece of pie or a big slice of pound cake. When the box is packed, tie -it securely with a length of cord, and have one end of the cord for a -strap by means of which the knapsack is hung across the soldier’s back. -Roll a square of old blanket and tie to the top of the box just as a -real soldier fastens his blanket to his knapsack, and the make-believe -soldier in cap, epaulets, and shield can draw his sword and start off -in search of any adventure. - - - - -JOINTED TOY ANIMALS. HOW TO MAKE THEM - - -They will really do “stunts,” these toys in the picture. The -grasshopper will hop if you stand him up on a table and give him a -chance. The turtle will crawl along much faster than an ordinary, live -turtle. The crocodile will follow you so fast that you will surely be -eaten by him unless you hurry. What fun it is going to be to play with -these live toys, but first a child must make them, and as many more as -he likes. - -Clear a low table on which to work and find some heavy cardboard or -thick water color paper from which to construct the animals. Bring -also, a pair of strong scissors, a sheet of tracing paper, a soft lead -pencil and the box of water color paints you found in your stocking -last Christmas. These are all the tools and material necessary for -making a barnful of animals. Ask mother for some porcelain collar -buttons to fasten the animals’ legs to the bodies. The laundry man -brings so many of these useless studs every week and a crop of them -will be fine for jointing the animals. If one cannot find enough -collar buttons, a box of tiny brass paper fasteners will serve very -well instead. - -[Illustration] - -Every boy knows how to draw a few animals, at least free hand. If he is -clever enough to be able to do this just by watching the horses out in -the street, or the tiger in the Zoo, or the kitten who sits in front -of the nursery fire, washing her face, so much the better. He will -not need any patterns. The child who finds difficulty in sketching an -animal free hand will have to trace his patterns from a book, or a toy -animal. Often one of the nursery toy animals may be laid flat on the -cardboard and its outline drawn and cut. Noah’s Ark animals, if they -are large, make excellent patterns for a child to copy. If one has no -toys of the right size, the tracing paper may be laid over the picture -of an animal in a farm picture book, or a book that tells about the -jungle, or a book on Natural History. When the outline of the animal -has been neatly traced on the tracing cloth, it should be transferred -to the cardboard from which the animal is to be made. When a child has -obtained a clear outline in this way, he may next proceed to make the -animals alive. - -First, he must decide just the location of the animal’s joints. Where -are the tiger’s paws fastened to his legs? Where are the grasshopper’s -knees? Where, hidden underneath his shell are the turtle’s funny little -flat feet attached to his body? Then, using the pattern which has -just been made, a new pattern of the creature’s body is made, then a -pattern of a leg, a tail, an ear, and these sections are all cut from -the cardboard, separately, with scissors or the sharp jack-knife. In -cutting out legs and paws, they should be made always a little longer -than the original pattern to allow for the joint by which they are -fastened to the body. As soon as all the parts of an animal have -been cut from the cardboard, they should be laid in place and holes -punched with a coarse needle or an awl at the joints. If the animal is -a huge one, the collar buttons may be slipped in these holes to hold -the sections together. In the case of the toy creatures shown in the -picture, paper fasteners were used. When these joints have been made -the toys will stand or sit, cock their ears or wag their tails, leap or -run--in fact they will do anything a boy wishes. - -The paints come next. It will be great fun to make the toy animals just -the right color. A tiger may be such a gorgeous yellow with bright -green eyes and black stripes. The grasshopper may be either green or a -warm brown, and the turtle’s house which he must always carry around on -his back should be painted gray. - -These jointed animals may be persuaded to act out the children’s -favorite stories and will furnish a new kind of fun for rainy -afternoons in the house. - -[Illustration: JOINTED CARDBOARD ANIMALS] - -Little Brer Rabbit can be easily made of white cardboard from the -pictures of Peter Rabbit or the rabbit pictures on an Easter card. Then -Brer Rabbit and Old Man Terrapin may act out on the nursery table the -famous race that Uncle Remus has told us about. A shoe box may be -used for a miniature stage if it is placed on its side on a table, some -scenery is painted in at the back and a little cloth curtain hung at -the front. Through a hole in one end the jointed animals may be put in -and they will perform most acceptably for an audience of dolls. - -Two children playing together, or two groups of children can each make -a set of jointed animals and then pose them to illustrate a favorite -story, the other child or group guessing the story illustrated. - -Many other plays will suggest themselves when one has a set of animals -which are really alive and which a child has made, all himself. - - - - -YOUR OWN CIRCUS - - -It is going to be a circus small enough to fit in any house. In fact, -it will be possible to put it within the boundaries of an old table. -Because you can’t always have an outdoor show is just the reason that -you are going to plan this fine, diminutive one in the house. It may -take several days to get it ready, but once your indoor circus is -finished, you will find it almost if not quite as interesting as a real -one. - -First, find an old table somewhere to be used as a circus ground. A -pine table will serve nicely, and if you can find some old green muslin -with which to cover it, you will discover that it looks exactly like -the grass in the field where the real circus is held. Tack the muslin -to the under side of the table top so that it will not wrinkle and -interfere with the circus parade. Now you are ready for the rope fence -which always encloses a circus ground. - -In the four corners of the table bore, with a gimlet, through the -canvas, some holes that are just the right size to hold dowel sticks, -five inches long. You can buy these dowel sticks of a carpenter in -foot lengths at a few cents each. Glue the posts in the holes which you -have bored in the table and also bore extra holes for two more about a -foot apart in the front of the table. These last little posts are for -the gate to your circus ground. When the glue has set and the posts -are perfectly dry, tie cord to one, near the top, and then stretch it -to another, knotting it, until you have finished the rope fence that -encloses the circus ground. If you like you can have two or three rows -of cord, and you can print a little circus sign to pin to the gate. It -may read: - - THE GREAT AND ONLY ANIMAL SHOW - - Clowns, Wild Beasts, and the Biggest Elephant - in the World. - - Performances Every Afternoon and Evening. - - Admission, Adults, two pins, Children, alone, - one pin. - - COME ONE. COME ALL! - -All around the edges of the bill you can draw pictures of wild animals -with your colored pencils. - -The circus ground will look very much pleasanter if you have a few -trees standing about on the edges, and these trees will be useful, -also, to tie some of your wild beasts to. - -Meat skewers will do nicely for the tree trunks if you fringe ever so -many narrow, doubled strips of green tissue paper, and wind them with -it, fastening the fringes to the meat skewer with mucilage. The green -paper flutters in the air quite like real foliage in the breeze on -circus day, and the little trees will stand up nicely if you stick the -end of each skewer inside an empty spool, glueing it there so that it -will stay in place. - -Did you think that you were never coming to the tent for your circus? -Well, here it is, and the picture shows you just how to construct it. -You will need to enlarge the diagram several times the size which you -see in the picture, but that is easily accomplished by means of your -ruler and lead pencil. Use some sort of tough, firm paper for the tent. -Water color paper will be splendid because you can get out your paint -box and paint pictures of wild men and palm trees and animals on the -sides. If you have no water color paper, use brown bristol board. The -latter makes a fine stiff tent. Cut out the top and sides as carefully -as you can, bend them, and glue or paste them together. Then stand the -tent up in the center of your circus ground. - -[Illustration: Pattern for Circus Tent.] - -The animals, next. - -There are patterns for them, too, which you will see in the picture and -which are so simple as to be very easily enlarged. The animals can be -made of the same kind of paper which you used for the tent, and then -painted, the elephant gray, the camel a soft brown and the deer a dull -reddish color, or you can cut them out of wood. This is perhaps the -better way. Use thin pieces of very soft, white wood. An excellent wood -is holly or soft pine, in the thin sheets which are used for jig saw -work, and for making picture puzzles. Draw the pattern of the animal -which you wish to make first very carefully on your piece of wood. Give -your best jack-knife two or three turns on a grindstone so that it will -be nice and sharp, and then go to work cutting the animal, not your -fingers. Make as many animals as you can, and glue their feet to tiny -blocks of kindling wood so that they will stand. Touch them up a little -with paint, too, to make them look wilder. - -If you want cages for your animals use empty spool boxes, covers and -all. Cut bars in the cover of each box with your jack-knife, stand the -animal inside and put the cover back on. The box rests on cardboard -wheels which are glued to the long, narrow side of the box. - -A clever boy will be able to invent the acts for the circus. One can -rig up trapezes and flying swings and tight rope appliances very easily -by using strings and spools. One can paint flags of all nations or cut -them from colored tissue paper to float from the roof of the tent, and -this little home-made circus will be so attractive that all the other -boys will want to make similar ones just as soon as they see it. - - - - -BEAD WORK FOR BOYS - - -There is not a boy but has gazed at the alluring Indian suits in the -toy shop windows, wishing that he were able to buy one. It is so much -easier to give a proper war whoop, and scare a few of the fellows, -and execute a wild war dance, or even sit by a camp fire in the woods -telling stories, if only he is dressed like a real, live Indian. - -Why not make one’s own Indian suit? - -It is perfectly possible for a boy to make himself a fine Indian shirt, -fringed, and decorated with beads; a pair of beaded moccasins and a -bead belt in which may be thrust a scalping knife, a bow and arrow and -a few other implements of war. He may hang all his scalps to the belt, -too. - -The only materials needed for the suit will be three or four large -chamois skins--or two yards of brown denim if the chamois seems -too expensive for the young Indian’s pocketbook--some red and blue -porcelain beads which may be bought in strings at any dry goods store -for a few cents a string, a spool of heavy cotton thread, and a little -patience. With a coarse needle, and a pair of scissors the boy will -be ready for work. Making an Indian suit will fill a great many rainy -afternoons full of fun. - -The bead belt is the best part of the suit to begin with because a boy -can experiment with designs as he weaves the beads together, and he -will be able to form an idea of the pattern he wishes to use when he -embroiders the shirt and the moccasins. One will need a bead loom on -which to make the belt. These looms may be bought at a toy shop, but -that is not really necessary. An old box will do quite as well for a -loom. The belt in the picture was started on the cover of an old shoe -box, and a cigar box with the cover and the bottom removed makes a fine -bead loom. In making a loom from a wooden box, very small screw eyes -may be put in the ends of the loom, about one quarter of an inch apart -to hold the threads. In the card board cover shown in the picture, the -warp threads--those are the lengthwise threads in the weaving--are held -in place by pins to which they were knotted at the ends of the loom. - -Fourteen threads are strung on the loom for a section of the belt, -as tightly as the card board will allow of their being stretched. A -needle is then threaded with the coarse cotton thread, and the end is -tied to the warp thread at the top of the loom at the left. The needle -is then brought out to the right below the warp strands, thirteen red -beads--one less bead than the number of the warp strands, remember--are -strung on the thread, and the beads are pressed up between the warp -strands so that one bead comes between every two threads. The needle -is then run back from right to left through the beads _above_ the -warp threads. This makes one row of beads securely woven to the warp. -For the second row of beads, six red beads, one blue one and six more -red ones are strung, the blue bead forming the beginning of a simple -design. The third row has three blue beads in the center, the fourth -has five, the fifth three, and the sixth one, completing the design. A -row of red beads is then woven in, after which the unit of design was -repeated. - -Many different designs will suggest themselves to the boy bead weaver. -A checker board pattern of squares may be used, there may be a plain -border at the edges of the belt, or a Greek fret may be introduced with -charming effect. - -When the section of the belt shown in the picture is finished, it may -be removed from the loom, the ends of thread being tied securely -about the last row of beads. A second section is strung on the loom, -blue beads being strung first with a design of red in the center. Four -sections, two red and two blue, may be sewed together to complete the -gay little Indian belt. - -[Illustration: Indian Shirt Pattern.] - -Now for the Indian’s shirt. The pattern which is shown in the picture -should be enlarged according to the scale, one and one half inches to a -foot. If chamois skin is used for the shirt, probably one large and two -smaller skins will need to be joined to give enough material, but if -the shirt is made of brown denim, the pattern may be laid on a length -of the cloth, without piecing, and the shirt is then cut. It will not -be necessary to sew any seams in the shirt. It is folded over at the -neck opening, and tied on the small boy with narrow strips of leather -indicated in the picture. One strip of leather is tied under the arms, -and the other about the hips. The bead embroidery finishes the neck and -sides of the shirt. To do this embroidery, a needle is threaded with -coarse linen thread, and knotted at the end. Starting at the right of -the neck, and close to the edge, the needle is brought through to the -outside of the shirt. Three beads are then strung. They are held down -close to the shirt and the needle is thrust through the cloth to the -inside again. The needle is then brought through, close to the first -stitch, three more beads are strung, and the embroidery is continued. -Red and blue beads should be alternated to form a design. This stitch -described is the simplest one for a boy to use and it is most effective -also, being the stitch used by the Indians when they embroidered their -own shirts, moccasins, and leggins. - -In starting the embroidery for the sides of the shirt, the bead border -should be started about two inches from the edge, this margin being -fringed carefully with sharp scissors after the beads are all sewed on. -A design of beads, which may be varied according to the taste and skill -of the boy who makes it, may ornament the front and the back of the -shirt. - -[Illustration: Moccasin Pattern.] - -[Illustration: Finished Moccasin.] - -Moccasins sound very difficult to make, but here is a pattern all in -one piece, with no troublesome uppers and soles to be fitted together. -Chamois skin should be used, if possible, for the moccasins, or the -light weight leather which may be bought at a craft shop for art work -and can easily be sewed. When the pattern of the moccasin which is -shown in the picture has been enlarged according to the scale--three -inches to a foot--it is laid on the leather or chamois, and a pair -of moccasins is cut out. It will be found easier to embroider the toe -before the moccasin is sewed. The sewing which holds the moccasin in -shape is done with very coarse thread in an over and over stitch. -Narrow strips of leather may be used, also, for the joining, in which -case, holes should be punched with a stiletto and awl to admit of -the leather being passed through the material. After this joining is -completed, the flap indicated in the picture is folded over on the -dotted lines, and it is embroidered in the same pattern used to finish -the neck and sides of the shirt. - -[Illustration: A BEAD LOOM MADE OF A BOX COVER] - -If there is enough of the material that was used for the shirt left, -two long, straight pieces may be cut, embroidered on the long edges, -fringed, and tied about the Indian’s legs for leggins. - -A most gorgeous headdress may be made for the Indian from crépe paper -feathers. The feathers are made by fringing crépe paper and pasting -this fringe to short lengths of flower wire. Gilt paint will make the -feathers even more glorious, and when a number of them are finished, -red, and blue, and green, and yellow--all the rainbow colors in -fact--they may be wired to a headdress made of stiff cambric or heavy -cardboard. - -What shall we call the boy when he is dressed in his home-made -chieftain’s suit, which will be more effective, even, than the one -he saw in the toy shop? Hiawatha, perhaps, as he dons his war paint -and feathers and starts in search of all sorts of interesting Indian -adventures. - - - - -HOW TO MAKE STICK PICTURES - - -It is a new sort of fun that a boy can have with just plain, everyday, -ordinary sticks. You can play at being an Indian, too, at the same time -for the Indians did it first and called it picture-writing. - -Suppose you were an Indian child in paint and feathers, and moccasins. -Suppose that you never went to school, and never had seen a piece of -paper or a lead pencil. Then suppose that you wanted to write a letter -to your little red cousin who lived on the other side of the forest in -another tribe, far away from yours. - -Of course, you have ever so much to tell your little red cousin. You -want him to know that the big chief, your father, has just put up a -fine new wigwam of skins for you to live in, a more beautiful wigwam -than any other in the village. You want the cousins to know, too, -that the sap has begun to run in the maple tree and soon your mother, -Laughing Water, will get out the big kettle and build a fire of pine -branches and boil the fresh, sweet sap into maple sirup. Then there is -a still more wonderful thing to tell your little red cousin. In the -full of the last moon, a strange water creature was seen in the river -in front of your wigwam. It was white, and large, and it had huge white -wings that the wind filled. It was a pale face ship--much larger, and -very different from an Indian’s canoe. - -Now, how are you going to tell all these exciting things to the -far-away little red cousin when you have no pencil and no paper for a -letter, and there is no postman and no railway train to carry a letter -to the other tribe? Why, it is going to be the easiest thing in the -world to do. Make some stick pictures that will tell all the stories -that you would like to write if you only knew how. - -In the forest there is a fine old hunting ground. You know just the -spot where all the tribes gather and build their great camp fires, and -cook the game, and dance in the evening when the hunt is done. Before -another moon your cousin’s tribe will be there. And you are going now, -to the hunting ground, to make some stick pictures for that little -Indian boy to find. Then he will understand that you have been there -and you were thinking of him. - -Jump into your canoe and paddle down the river. Tie the canoe fast to -the bank, then jump out and plunge into the forest. You know the way -to go, for the moss grows on the north side of the trees. There, you -have come to a cleared spot in the deep, deep woods. There isn’t any -sound save the chattering of the chipmunks. They won’t disturb your -picture writing. Now you may go to work. - -You break many of the straight, stout twigs from the pine tree. Some -of the twigs must be long, and others you will break off short to fit -together where there are corners in the pictures. There is a smooth bed -of moss under the pine tree. That will be a splendid place for your -picture writing. First, you will make a picture of the new wigwam. Just -two long sticks, crossed at the top will make the outline, and you put -two short sticks together to show the door. Now, for the maple tree. -You will lay a long stick down on the moss to show the outline of the -tree. Some shorter sticks, laid close to the sides of the longer stick -make the branches. The pale face ship may be more difficult to make, -but you will be able to outline the picture with your sticks. There are -the sloping sides of the ship and there are the sails. - -The picture letter is done. When the little cousin finds it there in -the woods he will know all about the new wigwam, and the maple sirup, -and the strange ship. You travel home again if you are a little Indian -boy, and you don’t mind in the least not having a pencil, or a postman. - -How may a little pale face child play at picture writing? - -If it is vacation time, you can gather sticks in the woods just as -the little Indian boy did. Be sure that they are long, straight ones, -though. You may sit in the grass and lay your stick pictures on the -lawn, or you may make them on the floor of the piazza. - -If you want to make stick pictures in the house on a stormy day, ask -mother to let you use her sewing table to put them on, or you can lay -them on the kitchen floor, or the nursery hearth rug. For the indoor -stick pictures, you can use burnt matches, or toothpicks, or clothes -pins--anything long and straight will do. You can buy colored sticks -at a kindergarten shop, and those will be the best of all for stick -pictures. And if you have a game of jackstraws, the straws may be used -for the pictures. - -The Indians had no picture books, but you have. You can play a game -with the stick pictures. You can make pictures to illustrate one of -your favorite stories, and then ask the boy or girl who is playing -with you to try and guess what the story is that fits the picture. - -[Illustration: STICK ILLUSTRATION OF THE STORY OF THE THREE BEARS] - -A splendid story to illustrate with stick pictures is The Three Bears. - -Here is their house. - -Here is the table that held the three bowls of porridge. - -Here are their three chairs. - -And here are their three beds. - - - - -A TOY INDIAN VILLAGE - - -Just fancy an encampment of real, live Indians in the house in a little -Indian village that you made all yourself! It will be the best sort -of fun to make the camp, and when it is done it will be a fine, new -plaything for all winter long, as the toy Indians have sham fights, and -May dances and tell each other stories around their tiny camp fires. -And this is the way to make the fascinating toy. - -A long, shallow tin with very narrow sides is the foundation for the -Indian village. The tinsmith has large sheets of bright new tin, and -he will make you one of these shallow tin trays for just a few cents. -The florist will give you a basket of soft, black earth--enough to fill -the tray--and you can mold and pat it into tiny hills and queer little -valleys, and long foot paths, no wider than your little finger for the -toy Indians to trail up and down. - -You must take a long walk now as far as the woods to find some sprays -of white pine, hemlock, and spruce for the Indians’ trees. Gather some -little straight twigs, too, for wigwam foundations, and if the ground -is still bare, pick up some of the prettiest pebbles you can find for -make-believe rocks in the Indian encampment. With your jack-knife -strip from the birch tree just a very little bark to make an Indian -canoe--not much, for it takes a birch a long, long time to grow more -bark. Then you may go home again, but on the way, buy a penny’s worth -of grass seed at the florist’s. What are you to do with all these -things? - -Just listen, and you will find out. - -Scatter the grass seed very softly over the earth in your tray and -sprinkle it with the rubber bulb sprayer that mother uses for her house -ferns. You would not believe it perhaps, but in a week or ten days -your little Indian camp ground will be covered with a carpet of soft, -green grass really growing in the earth. After you have planted the -grass seed, stick the little evergreen trees in the earth and lay your -pebbles about as if they really belonged there on the ground. In one -corner of the tray, if mother is willing, you may sink a shallow, round -cake tin filled with water to make a miniature lake, and about the lake -you can put a border of stones covered with the moss that comes in a -box of Noah’s Ark animals. The tray of earth is quite transformed now -into a tiny forest. - -[Illustration: Pattern for Toy Wigwam.] - -Under the trees the Indian wigwams are scattered. Making these tepees -is ever so much fun and will fill a long winter evening after your -lessons are learned and you have the library table free to work on. -Fig. 1 shows you how to cut out an Indian wigwam, and heavy dark brown -paper or brown canvas is a strong material to use. When the wigwam is -cut, it may be decorated with paints in any design you wish. A border -of small squares is an attractive decoration, or some grotesque heads -and bows and arrows may be painted on. Gold or red paper stars and -crescents and suns may be cut and glued to the outside of the wigwam, -forming a very gay scheme of trimming it, or very tiny autumn leaves -may be waxed and glued on. When a number of these little wigwams have -been cut, decorated, and glued together, as shown in Fig. 2, place them -in your play forest, using two or three twigs crossed for supports, the -ends extending through the hole in the top of the wigwam. - -Now you can make the Indians. English walnuts form the heads. These are -just the right size, brown enough for the complexion of any Indian, -and nicely wrinkled, too. With a sharp jack-knife smooth down a few -of the walnut’s wrinkles, and carve the Indian’s features, trying to -give him high cheek bones. Color his cheeks with vermilion and paint -his face, too, in as many different colors as you like. A roll of stiff -paper or cloth glued to the nut head makes the Indian’s body, about -which is wrapped a blanket of fringed crépe paper, red flannel, or any -sort of gay stuff that mother will give you. This walnut Indian wears a -marvelous feather headdress. The feathers come from the chicken yard or -the oldest feather duster--whichever source is available--and they are -glued to a strip of brown paper which, in turn is glued to the little -Indian’s head. - -There should be a whole tribe of Indians, as many as you can make -before bedtime, and when it comes morning run up to the play room and -stand the Indian braves at the doors of their wigwams or in the little -path between the trees where they can see their real green grass coming -up, and enjoy the friendly shelter of their fine little camping ground. - -These nut Indians will need bows and arrows when they have sham -battles. Tiny twigs may be bent bow shape with rubber bands for bow -strings and burned out matches may be sharpened to a point for arrows. -Toothpicks make arrows, too. A bow and a bundle of arrows may be laid -at the door of each little Indian’s wigwam. The canoe that floats on -the tin pan lake is made of a strip of folded birch bark shaped at the -ends like a real canoe and stitched with brown linen thread. It will -really float if it is carefully made. - -For a camp fire, pile up some broken twigs in a cleared spot in your -Indian encampment and put in some scraps of twisted, red tissue paper -which will look like flames. One of the kettles from the dolls’ kitchen -may hang on a forked stick over this make-believe fire to cook the -dinner for the walnut Indian tribe. - -This play Indian village will last all winter, a comfortable camping -ground for the tribe, and a delightful plaything for the clever boy who -made it. - -There may be some walnut squaws added perhaps, and some peanut -papooses wrapped in blankets cut from a scrap of old chamois and hung -contentedly by thread to the sheltering trees. The grass will grow so -high that it may have to be mowed with the nursery scissors, and when -the trees fade, more can be gathered and put in the places of the old -ones. - - - - -CORN TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM - - -Corn cobs really look as if they would like to play. There is a whole -binful out in the barn, and the chickens do not want them and neither -does the farmer. He will make a big bonfire out in the wood lot -some day and burn up all the corn cobs if the children do not take -possession of them first, and help them to play by making them into -toys. - -What fine, long, straight little logs they are for a log cabin, or they -might be made into Indian or toy rafts, or a rail fence, or almost -anything else a child chooses. - -First you can make a little rail fence that stretches across one corner -of the barn floor. To do this, lay down six corn cobs in zigzag fashion -on the floor with the ends not quite as far apart as the cobs are long. -Then across every two cob ends lay another cob and finish the fence in -this way, making it very snug. - -Behind the fence lives Apple Johnny. He owns the farm whose boundary -lines the fence marks out on the floor. Apple Johnny has a little hard -apple for his head joined by a toothpick to a fat apple that forms his -body. His legs and arms are twigs and his face is cut with a jack-knife -in the smaller apple. Apple Johnny has a herd of wild potato horses on -his farm. Each potato has four twig legs, and a flowing mane, made of -a fringed corn husk pinned to the long end of the potato, and a straw -tail pinned to the other end. - -As you put the last corn cob in the fence, you heard the rain just -pouring and pouring on the barn eaves. Suppose the roof of the barn -should cave in and the whole inside be flooded! What would poor little -Apple Johnny do, and how would he ever make his escape? Apple Johnny -must have a raft. Select six more corn cobs from the binful, all of -them just the same length, and lay them down on the barn floor, side by -side. In one of the corners of the barn is an old last summer’s berry -basket. Strip off two bits of the binding rim as long as the row of -cobs is wide. Nail one to each end of the row of corn cobs, putting a -nail in each cob, which holds the small raft firmly in place. Then turn -the raft right side up and to one end nail a long, straight twig for -a mast, to which you can glue a white paper sail. It is a fine little -raft when it is completed, and strong enough to carry Apple Johnny and -a potato horse or two safely through any possible flood. - -But Apple Johnny has no house. Well, a house is easily planned when one -has a whole bin of corn cobs to draw upon for building materials. - -Gather an armful of cobs and make a corn-cob house. Lay two corn cobs -opposite each other, and two more across the ends, log cabin fashion, -driving nails through to hold them together. Next, put two more corn -cobs over the first two and two more over the second, until the house -is twice as high as Apple Johnny is tall. For a roof, nail two sides -of the berry basket to the log cabin, and then with a rip saw cut out -a front door high enough to let Apple Johnny step through. There will -be rather wide chinks in the house, but you can play that these are -windows through which Apple Johnny can watch for the corn-cob Indians -and shoot at them with a twig musket when he sees them coming. - -You can make a whole tribe of these corn-cob Indians, and it will -be the most fun of all, even jollier than making a corn-cob fence, -and a raft, and a house. First, wind corn husks around a cob to make -the Indian’s clothes, but leave one end, the larger end of the cob, -uncovered because that is going to be the Indian’s head. Then on this -end, mark a face with a bit of charcoal; eyes, nose, and mouth; and -paint the cheeks red with a crushed cranberry, rubbing the juice on -the corn cob. The hens’ nests in the barn are full of ever so many -pretty feathers, so you can collect as many of these as you wish and -glue them to the corn-cob Indian’s head for his headdress. Last of -all, ask mother if she is willing to give you a few pieces of the left -over plain cloth from sister’s school dress for the corn-cob Indian’s -blanket. Of course mother is willing. Almost every mother is willing to -give a boy things when he is trying to amuse himself all alone. She may -even cut a square of gay plaid from the piece of cloth itself and turn -out all the pieces from her sewing bag, where there are other scraps -just right for Indians’ blankets; red flannel, and gray serge like your -last winter suit, and brown merino, and yellow silk. - -The Indian looks very splendid indeed in his feather headdress and a -red plaid blanket. All he needs then is a bow and quiver of arrows. The -bow you can make by bending a length of willow and tying a piece of -cord across. The arrows are shorter, pointed twigs with a very small -hen’s feather tied to the end of each. - -This Indian you can name Chief Big Cob. - -[Illustration: CORN COB PAPPOOSE] - -[Illustration: CORN COB INDIAN] - - - - -HOW TO MAKE A MARBLE BAG - - -Nobody knows why the first of March brings marbles, but it certainly -does. Some games really belong to the season in which they come as -coasting and snowfights, but other games are played at certain times -of the year for no reason except that they always have been and always -will be. If some one should ask a boy--any boy, why it wouldn’t be -better to play football in the summer and baseball at Thanksgiving -time, he couldn’t tell you, but his sense of the fitness of things -would be outraged. - -And so, when the snow goes away, and the frost comes out of the ground, -and the sap begins to run in the trees, and a boy’s toes wiggle and -wiggle and long to kick out of his shoes and dig themselves into the -soft mud, it is quite the proper thing for him to hunt up all his last -year’s marbles, and ask his sister--or somebody else’s sister--to make -him a bag to hold them, so that he will be ready for the season’s -marble campaign. - -The simplest marble bag to make is one which is made in just the same -way as a tobacco pouch. Take an oblong piece of heavy tan canvas, -measuring twelve inches long by five inches wide. Tan does not show the -dirt readily, and the heavier the material is the better, for the bag -is not going to be gently handled. Double this piece of canvas in the -center, so that it forms a bag six inches deep by five wide. Sew up the -two side seams with a coarse needle and very heavy linen thread, and -make the seams very strong. The sewing should be about a quarter of an -inch back from the edges. Then “scrape” the seams open, which simply -means to run your thumb nail along the seams right where the joining -is, so that one raw edge shall be folded toward each side. Next make -a hem at the top by folding the material over once, and then again. -This hem should be about a quarter of an inch wide, and in sewing it -down leave a space unsewed on one side where it crosses the seam, so -that the draw string can be run in. Turn your bag so that it will be -right side out, and the seaming all on the inside. A piece of heavy, -wrapping-paper twine twelve inches long will make a fine draw string, -by running it through the hem with a bodkin and tying the two ends -together. - -[Illustration: Pattern of a Marble Bag.] - -Another marble bag that will prove very satisfactory, and will be so -unusual that the boy who owns it can gloat over the other fellows, is -made of very heavy chamois, or buckskin. A paper pattern is made first, -like Fig. 1. It measures two and a half inches across the top, four and -a half inches from side to side at a point three and three-quarters -inches below the top, and its height is six and a half inches. After -these points have been determined a boy can mark in the vase shaped -outline freehand. When the pattern is made and cut out, lay it on the -buckskin, holding it carefully, so that it will not slip, and cut four -pieces just alike. Then take a large darning needle or a “rug” needle -and thread it with a strand of raffia. If red, or blue, or green raffia -are used instead of the ordinary natural color, it will make the sewing -very decorative. Take two of the pieces of buckskin, and, beginning at -the bottom, sew them together with the stitch that is used for making -baseballs. This is done by taking a stitch up from underneath, then -crossing over, and taking a stitch up from the under side of the other -piece, then back to the first piece and so on, drawing the raffia snug -each time. Instead of making a knot at the beginning, leave the raffia -hanging loose for about an inch or more, and when the top of the seam -is reached, fasten the raffia tight before cutting off. Next join the -third piece to the second in the same way, the fourth to the third, -and then the fourth to the first, so that all four together form a -bag. Take the four ends of raffia at the bottom and knot them snugly -together, two by two. They may be trimmed off short, or left hanging -loose to form a tassel for decoration. Now take a narrow piece of soft -wood and slip it inside the mouth of the bag, so that you can cut slits -for the draw string. They are cut with a sharp penknife and should come -just at the narrowest part, or neck of the bag. If the upper ends of -the cuts are three-quarters of an inch from the top of the bag, and the -cuts themselves a half inch long, they will be about right. There are -four cuts in each section making sixteen cuts in all. Next take three -pieces of raffia twenty-four inches long. Knot the three together at -one end, and then braid them tightly into a cord. When the other end -is reached knot it as you did the first. String this cord through the -slits in the neck of the bag just as though you were weaving--under -one, over one, under one, over one--and then when it is all strung, tie -the two ends together in a square knot. - -It makes an exceedingly unique bag, and will hold all the marbles a -boy can win, and besides winning marbles he will win the envy of every -other boy who sees his fine, new marble bag. - -[Illustration: WHITTLED SCHOOL BOX] - -[Illustration: CHAMOIS MARBLE BAG] - - - - -HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SCHOOL BOX - - -Every boy needs a pencil box. Plain little oblong boxes most of them, -with a flat hinged cover, and a little lock that you keep carefully -fastened with the key. That is, a boy locks his pencil box when he is -able to find the key, but whether it was in his pocket, or fastened to -his watch chain, the school-box key always does manage to get away, -somewhere--to make its escape. - -One day, however, the boy sees displayed in the window of a stationery -shop, a new sort of pencil box, a most fascinating kind. The cover of -the box is made of narrow strips of wood fastened side by side like the -strips in the top of a roll-top desk, and when the shopman opens the -pencil box to show the boy the inside, the cover just _slides_ right -back out of sight, while the boy looks on in open-eyed astonishment. -The shopman’s supply of these magic boxes is limited, though, and there -is a wild scramble for their possession among the boys who can produce -ten cents--for that is the exorbitant price charged by the shopman. -The boy wants one of those magic boxes. His fingers just tingle and -burn to hold one and try to make the cover slide in its charming way, -but he has only five cents, he can’t buy one. - -The boy will be able to make his own pencil box, though, and this -is the way he must go about it in order to construct one of those -fascinating, roll-top ones, just like the one in the shop window. - -In the first place, a boy must know how to whittle. All that he -needs in the way of material is a jack-knife, some pieces of wood -three-sixteenths of an inch thick, some more pieces an eighth thick, a -strip of white cloth, and some little three-eighth inch nails. - -The first piece to make (Fig. 1) is the side of the box. It is just -a plain oblong of the three-sixteenth inch wood, measuring nine -inches long by two and a quarter inches wide. All the pieces are made -three-sixteenths thick except the strips for the cover. Two of these -sides are necessary of course. - -Next come two strips nine inches long and a quarter of an inch wide -which are fastened, notched side up on the inside of each side, -“flush”--even--that is, with the top, with four little nails driven -from the outside. The piece which is cut from the end of each of these, -as shown in the drawing, is to make a joint which is later to be -fitted with Fig. 10. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a School Box.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a School Box.] - -Fig. 3 is eight and nine-sixteenths inches long and one and -seven-sixteenths wide and one end is rounded into a half circle. Figs. -3 and 4 are nailed in position on the inside of the side pieces, and -together they form the track around which the cover runs. Two of each -are required. Fig. 5 is the bottom piece, and is simply an oblong nine -inches long by two and a half wide. It is placed in position with the -side pieces upright on either side of it and nailed from the outside. - -It is best to make the cover next, so that you can test it and see that -it works smoothly before any more of the box is put together. It is -made of little strips (Fig. 6) three-eighths of an inch wide and two -and a half inches long, “sliding fit,” which means that they are to be -a little less than two and a half, so that they will slide in a space -two and a half inches wide. A sharp rub on the ends with sandpaper will -make this slight difference. There are twenty-two of these strips, and -they are glued side by side on a strip of white muslin cloth. If you -use a piece with a selvage on one side, you will be more sure of making -the cover perfectly straight. - -Fig. 7 is the handle and is to be nailed flat to the second strip--the -one next to the end strip. - -Fig. 8 and Fig. 9 are a false bottom and false end, which form the -receptacle for the pencils, and hide the mechanism of the cover. They -are nailed in position as shown in Fig. 12. The nails to fasten these -in place must be a little longer than the others, because they have to -be nailed from the outside and must go through two thicknesses of wood -and project into a third. - -The next piece to make is Fig. 10--an oblong measuring one and a half -inches by two and a half, and cut to make a joint with Fig. 2. This is -placed across the top and nailed down, covering the rounding end of the -“track.” - -Now the cover may be slipped into position and the end pieces (Fig. -11), oblongs two and a quarter inches by two and seven-eighths, nailed -on, and the box is done. - -It is a convenient size, the receptacle for pencils is ample, and to -one who does not know, the disappearance of that cover when it opens is -a mystery that borders on black art. - - - - -A HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND - - -Nobody will deny that a Christmas tree has plenty of backbone, but -somehow it doesn’t seem to have intelligence enough to use it. Or else -it resents the taking away of its roots and the substitution of a -shop-made standard that it considers inadequate. As a matter of fact -the standards that you can buy in the shops _are_ inadequate for a tree -of any size. And so, if the boy of the family is handy with tools, it -is up to him to make one. - -A very good standard for a Christmas tree--strong, durable, and -ornamental as well--may be made from a strip of one-by-two-inch -“dressed” lumber 12 ft. long (which costs about a cent and a half a -foot), and some pieces of an old dry goods box. - -First, saw off from your one-by-two-inch strip four pieces twelve -inches long and four pieces eleven inches. These are to make Figs. 1, -2, and 4. Make four pieces like Fig. 1 and two pieces like Fig. 2; the -notch at the end is cut with a saw across the grain, and then split out -with a chisel. - -When these are done, join two of the twelve-inch pieces and two of the -eleven inch to form a square frame. The joint is shown in Fig. 3, and -it should be glued or nailed, or both, which is safer. - -Next make the other two eleven-inch pieces like Fig. 4. These are just -like Fig. 2 except that a groove four inches wide and one inch deep -is cut in the middle of each. Then they are joined with the other -twelve-inch pieces to form a frame similar to the first. The first -frame is to go at the bottom of the standard, and the second frame, -placed with the grooves _up_, is for the top. - -Now cut from the remainder of the strip two more pieces twelve inches -long. With a compass set at an inch-and-a-half radius, and the center -in the exact middle of one edge, draw a half circle on each, and chip -it out with a chisel like Fig. 5. The use of these will be described -later. - -The remainder of the strip will make four pieces eighteen inches long, -with a bit left over. These are to stand on their two-inch faces, and -the upper edges of each end should be rounded off with a “block” plane. -Then two grooves are cut in each piece, two of the pieces having the -grooves on the upper side and two on the under side, like Figs. 6 -and 7. - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.] - -[Illustration: Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.] - -Now cut from your packing box sixteen strips or pickets one and -three-quarters inches wide and fourteen inches long, like Fig. 8. -These may be “ripped out” with a saw and smoothed up with a plane and -sandpaper. - -[Illustration: Christmas Tree Stand.] - -To “assemble” the standard join first the two Fig. 6 strips and two -Fig. 7. This leaves a hole two inches square in the center and two -strips projecting from each of the four sides. Place the first square -frame that you made on this, so that its sides will be equally distant -from the center, and nail in position. Next nail the pickets in -position so that the lower end of the pickets will be “flush” with the -lower side of the frame. Next, hold the upper frame, with the grooves -up, in position, eight inches above the lower frame and nail the -pickets to that. Fig. 9 shows the complete assembly. - -Now give the frame, and the two pieces like Fig. 5 a coat of dark green -paint, and the standard is ready for use. Slip the tree into the square -hole in the base. If the trunk is a bit too large, whittle it to fit. -Then place the two pieces like Fig. 5 around the trunk at the top of -the frame for a clamp, and slip them into the grooves in the upper -frame, and you will find your tree quite ready to stand up and behave. - - - - -HOW TO WRAP CHRISTMAS PARCELS - - -How many boys and big folks, too, have at some time received a -Christmas gift which was broken, or crushed, or spoiled in some way -through the careless packing of the sender. Even at ordinary times the -mail service and Express Companies are hard enough upon packages given -to their care. The term “baggage-smasher” ought not to be restricted -to the employees of the railways alone, and when at Christmas time -the mails and express lines are congested with packages of all -descriptions, and the men are tired and overworked trying to deliver -gifts that have been sent at the last minute--then it is doubly needful -to insure the safety of your Christmas presents by careful packing. - -Of course the wrapping of a gift cannot change its value, but you -should bear in mind that your gift will _seem_ doubly attractive to the -one who receives it, if inside of the serviceable outside wrapping, -there is another dainty one, and the expense is so trifling that it -need hardly be considered. A dozen sheets of tissue paper cost only -a dime. Pure white or warm “Christmassy” red are the most desirable -kinds. Another dime will purchase a box of Christmas seals--small ones -with pictures of holly and mistletoe, or large ones with Santa Claus -heads or Christmas bells on them. If you prefer tying, to sealing, the -ten cents will buy a dozen yards of “tying” ribbon, which is crimson -“baby” ribbon in a cheaper grade than is ordinarily sold. Gilt cord -is also very attractive for tying up gifts, and a tiny spray of holly -tucked under the cord or ribbon gives a final dainty Christmas touch. - -Perhaps, though, you live so far away from a town that you are not able -to buy these Christmas seals, and the tying ribbon. Almost, if not -quite as pretty to fasten the inside tissue paper wrapping of a gift -will be some very tiny, red maple leaves gathered in the fall with the -thought of Christmas in mind, and pressed with a hot flat iron on which -some beeswax has been rubbed. This preserves the bright color of the -leaves and keeps them stiff until you need to use them. After carefully -folding in the ends of the tissue paper about the gift, the paper is -fastened down by gluing on a few of these gay, pressed leaves, and in -the folds of the paper a wee spray of pine or a little wreath made of -ground pine, or a bunch of partridge berries may be tucked. Another -way of making a gift look like the country is to tie it with strands of -sweet grass. - -When the gifts are wrapped, and you are ready to pack them for -shipment, there are a few general rules that must be remembered. - -First: That the gifts must be packed as snugly as it is possible to do -without harming them. - -Second: That nothing--not even excelsior--is quite as effective in -stopping the transmission of bumps and jars as crumpled up newspapers. - -Third: That the name and address of the person to whom the gift is sent -and also the address of the sender must be legibly written in your -best school hand on the outer covering where they are not liable to be -torn off. You must remember that, while the names and addresses are -perfectly familiar to you, they are totally unknown to the men through -whose hands the parcels go, and in handling thousands of packages, -illegible writing means much delay. - -The rule of packing things tightly refers to _everything_--even things -which would seem most crushable, for there is far more harm done by -packing these loosely so that they slip around with every turn of the -package, than by crushing them flat in one position. Take a delicate -waist, for instance. If packed loosely, it will come out of its box -rumpled and wrinkled in every direction, but if it is folded flat, the -sleeves stuffed with crumpled tissue paper, and the spaces around it in -the box filled with the same, it will reach its destination quite as -fresh as when it started. - -It is better to _box_ all gifts if possible. Very pretty Christmas -boxes of all sizes and shapes may be bought in the shops, or, in place -of these, you can use empty candy boxes which most people stow away for -just such purposes. - -Do not select a box that is too small and leaves too little space for -filling in with crushed paper, and try and think, too, of the weight of -the gift in selecting your box. - -If you are packing odd pieces of china, wrap each piece separately, and -see that they are well segregated with the crushed paper. If you are -packing a number of pieces of uniform size and shape--such as saucers, -plates, etc.--place them in a pile with every _second_ one well -wrapped. Then wrap the whole pile and pack _edgewise_. - -China should be packed in a wooden box, with an addressed baggage tag -nailed on, or the address put on the wood itself with India ink. - -Flat things, calendars, cards, photographs, and handkerchiefs, gloves, -neckties, ribbons, etc. if unboxed, must be protected by pasteboard. -For this, the corrugated pasteboard that is used by department stores -is much more effective than the ordinary flat sort. It is much less -easily bent, and is lighter in weight, which is of course a great -advantage, because it makes the cost of mailing less. - -This corrugated pasteboard is also very good for wrapping things which -are light in weight, but bulky and of awkward shape, for it may be -rolled to accommodate almost any object. - -Doilies, centerpieces, and other flat embroideries must necessarily -be kept uncreased in shipping, but are too large to be sent flat. Lay -them first on a sheet of heavy wrapping paper, cut square and slightly -larger than the embroidered piece. Then lay over the embroidery a -sheet of tissue paper, and carefully roll the whole thing. Then form a -tubular covering of the corrugated pasteboard, and wrap with hardware -paper outside. In tying up a tube, the cord should go twice around the -tube--once near each end--and the cord which goes lengthwise should go -through the opening of the tube so that the contents will not slip out. - -In tying packages for mailing, use good strong cord, and remember that -a package must bear no kind of a seal and contain no kind of writing -beyond a simple Christmas greeting if it is to go as “merchandise.” -Even one of the little paper seals stuck over the string will render -the package “first class” and subject to letter postage. - -Just one more thing to be remembered at Christmas time. Courtesy is -only another name for kindness, and it would be discourteous to send -a gift which was not fully prepaid; or to send a gift “across the -line,” which is dutiable to any great extent. And in courtesy to the -men and women who have to handle your gifts on their journeys, send -your Christmas presents long enough ahead of time so that these men and -women may not be too tired when Christmas comes to feel themselves its -blessed peace and cheer. - - - - -YOUR OWN WIRELESS RECEIVING STATION - - -Most boys are interested in wireless telegraphy, and it is possible for -any one of them to make a simple apparatus by which they can “cut in” -and receive any wireless message that happens to be passing through -their particular zone. - -The receiving set will require a number of different parts, but they -are easily made--when one knows how. - -For actual hearing you will need a telephone receiver of some sort. -One may be bought for about seventy-five cents at an electrical supply -house, or an old one, provided it is in good condition, may be used. - -Next comes a “detector.” This consists of a wooden base about six -inches long by four wide and an inch thick, on which is mounted a piece -of silicon about the size of an egg. An insulated wire passed once -around the silicon and then through two holes in the base will hold the -silicon in position in the center of the block. Put a brass screw an -inch long at each end of the block and “connect up” the silicon in the -following way: First take a piece of No. 22 single-covered copper wire, -scrape off a few inches of the covering, and wind this bare copper wire -several times around a small round stick to form a spring. The bare end -of the spring must be filed to a point and rest against one end of the -silicon, while the other end of the wire is wound around one of the -brass screws. Next, take a piece of ordinary insulated telephone wire, -bare one end far enough to wind firmly around the free end of the piece -of silicon, and then wind the other end of this wire around the second -brass screw. This makes a metallic circuit through the silicon which -will “make” or “break” with the touching or removing of the spring. - -[Illustration: Detector.] - -[Illustration: Tuning Coil.] - -Next you need a “tuning coil.” This has a wooden base twelve inches -by six and an inch thick. To make the coil itself a stick twelve -inches long and one and a half inches in diameter--a piece of an old -curtain pole will do--and wind carefully on it a half pound of the -No. 22 single-covered copper wire. The end of this wire is fastened -to the stick with a small tack, and it should be wound very evenly -and closely. The last end is left free for a connection. After it is -wound give the wire three coats of shellac, making sure that each coat -is dry before another one is put on. When it is thoroughly dry mark -two straight lines from end to end, a quarter of an inch apart. With -a sharp knife scrape off the insulation so that the wires are bare on -the outside, but be careful not to disturb the insulation between the -wires. To mount the coil, nail at each end a wooden strip three inches -wide, three and a half high and one inch thick. This has also to be -nailed to the base, and it should be placed so that the coil will clear -the base by a half inch. The strip of bare wire on the coil should -be uppermost. Now get a brass rod one quarter of an inch square and -thirteen inches long; a thin brass strip one quarter inch wide and two -inches long; another strip one inch wide and one and one-quarter inches -long; and two round headed brass screws. Bend the wider brass strip -around the brass rod to form a slider. Bend the narrow brass strip in -the center to form a V spring. Solder one end of this to the slider so -that it is in the position shown in the drawing. Slip the slider on the -brass rod, place the rod in position directly over the pathway of bared -wire on the coil so that the lower end of the V spring will press on -this pathway, and fasten the rod securely with the brass screws to the -wooden end pieces. - -[Illustration: Aerial.] - -[Illustration: Switch.] - -For the “aërial” get three or four hundred feet of wire--No. -16 galvanized wire will do, though aluminum or copper wire is -better--some insulator knobs, and two cross spreaders three feet -long. The parallel wires in the aërial should be at least two feet -apart, and the aërial should be placed as high as possible so that -surrounding buildings, etc., will not interfere with the wireless wave. -The bare wires, wherever they are fastened to poles or trees must, of -course, be wound around insulators. For a ground connection, fasten -an ordinary insulated wire to a water pipe or to a piece of iron pipe -sunk five feet in damp ground. A safety switch may be made, like the -drawing, from a piece of wood six inches square and an inch thick, a -piece of stiff brass three inches long and a half inch wide, and three -round-headed brass screws. - -[Illustration: Diagram of Circuit.] - -This completes the separate parts of the receiving apparatus. To -connect it up for use, follow the circuit diagram. One wire from the -aërial leads through the safety switch to the tuning coil. From the -tuning coil carry an insulated wire to the detector, and from the -detector to the ground. The receiver has two wires leading from it--one -to a point between the detector and the tuning coil, and the other to -a similar point between the detector and the ground. When not in use -the aërial should be connected directly with the ground by means of the -safety switch. Where two wires are connected they must of course have -the insulation scraped off so that bare wire rests against bare wire. - -When you have learned to translate your messages you will be able to -do quite a bit of wireless eavesdropping, and your receiver will click -with countless messages. - - -THE END - - - - -TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES: - - - Italicized text is surrounded by underscores: _italics_. - - Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized. - - Archaic or alternate spelling that may have been in use at the time of - publication has been retained. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by -Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS *** - -***** This file should be named 60621-0.txt or 60621-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/6/2/60621/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David E. 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