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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #60621 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/60621)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by 
-Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Boys' Make-at-Home Things
-
-Author: Carolyn Sherwin Bailey
-        Marian Elizabeth Bailey
-
-Release Date: November 3, 2019 [EBook #60621]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chris Curnow, David E. Brown, and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-  BOYS’
-  MAKE-AT-HOME
-  THINGS
-
-  BY
-  CAROLYN SHERWIN BAILEY
-  AND
-  MARIAN ELIZABETH BAILEY
-
-  WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS
-
-  [Illustration]
-
-  NEW YORK
-  FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY
-  PUBLISHERS
-
-
-
-
-  _Copyright, 1912, by_
-  FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY
-
-  _All rights reserved, including that of translation into foreign
-  languages, including the Scandinavian_
-
-  [Illustration: _September, 1912_]
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE
-
-
-Make-At-Home-Things for Boys aims to keep boys busy and entertained.
-It furnishes them with simple directions for making toys and useful
-articles, all of which are carefully pictured. The aim of the book,
-is to give boys an idea of the craft possibilities which lie in the
-crudest materials, often the waste material of the home and in this way
-to develop real artistic ability.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
-                                                PAGE
-
-  PREFACE                                          v
-
-  THE MAKING OF TOOLS NECESSARY FOR WHITTLING      1
-
-  HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICAL WORK BENCH               7
-
-  WORK BENCH ACCESSORIES                          15
-
-  HOW TO MAKE A TURNING LATHE                     21
-
-  HOW TO MAKE A TOY TRAIN                         29
-
-  OUT-DOOR TOYS                                   37
-
-  HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DESK SET                   45
-
-  WILD ANIMALS YOU CAN MAKE                       53
-
-  HOW TO MAKE A SET OF MISSION FURNITURE          59
-
-  TOYS THAT HIDE IN THE WOOD BOX                  65
-
-  THE WONDERFUL DODO BIRD                         75
-
-  A FLEET OF TOY BOATS                            83
-
-  HOW TO MAKE A PLAY TENT                         89
-
-  HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN TOPS                       95
-
-  THE FARM THE SCISSORS BUILT                    101
-
-  MORE BOX PLAYS                                 107
-
-  A RECIPE FOR A NOAH’S ARK                      113
-
-  HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN UNIFORM                   117
-
-  JOINTED TOY ANIMALS. HOW TO MAKE THEM          123
-
-  YOUR OWN CIRCUS                                129
-
-  BEAD WORK FOR BOYS                             135
-
-  HOW TO MAKE STICK PICTURES                     143
-
-  A TOY INDIAN VILLAGE                           149
-
-  CORN TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM                 155
-
-  HOW TO MAKE A MARBLE BAG                       159
-
-  HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SCHOOL BOX                165
-
-  A HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND               171
-
-  HOW TO WRAP CHRISTMAS PARCELS                  177
-
-  YOUR OWN WIRELESS RECEIVING STATION            183
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
-  Whittled Toy Train                           _Frontispiece_
-
-                                                  FACING PAGE
-  Knife-strop                                               6
-
-  Whittled Weather Vane; Kite Stick; “Cat”; Reel
-    for Fish Line; “Cat” Stick                             38
-
-  File; Ink Well; Pen Tray                                 46
-
-  Book Rack                                                50
-
-  Whittled Wild Animals: Giraffe, Camel                    54
-
-  Whittled Wild Animals: Bear, Lion, “Darwin”              56
-
-  Dolls’ Chair and Table Whittled in Mission Style         60
-
-  Dolls’ Whittled Chest of Drawers; Dolls’ Whittled
-    Bed                                                    64
-
-  Toy Barnyard Made of Kindling Wood                       68
-
-  A Set of Dolls’ Furniture Made by Gluing Together
-    Blocks of Kindling Wood                                74
-
-  The Dodo Bird                                            80
-
-  A Cork Raft; A Cork Sail Boat                            84
-
-  Whittled Toy Sail Boat                                   88
-
-  Whittled Clown Top                                       96
-
-  Beet Top; Top Made of Graduated Disks; Button
-    Mold Top                                               98
-
-  Cart, Barn and Barrow Made of Cardboard Boxes           104
-
-  Circus Parade (The Cage is Made of a Shoe Box)          108
-
-  The Ark; Cardboard Animals Who Live in the Ark          112
-
-  Going Aboard the Ark                                    114
-
-  Pattern for Soldier’s Cap; The Finished Uniform:
-    Cap, Shield, Sword and Epaulets                       120
-
-  Jointed Cardboard Animals                               126
-
-  A Bead Loom Made of a Box Cover                         140
-
-  Stick Illustration of the Story of The Three Bears      146
-
-  Corn Cob Pappoose; Corn Cob Indian                      158
-
-  Whittled School Box; Chamois Marble Bag                 164
-
-
-
-
-BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS
-
-
-
-
-BOYS’ MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS
-
-
-
-
-THE MAKING OF TOOLS NECESSARY FOR WHITTLING
-
-
-The tools which one will need for whittling--the kind of whittling that
-makes something besides splinters--are very simple and few in number.
-Any boy’s pocket will furnish a jack-knife, and it is pretty sure to be
-a sharp one.
-
-With a knife, a pencil, and some pieces of wood, all the other tools
-may be made. Basswood is the easiest wood to handle because it is soft,
-and very close grained. If basswood can not be had, pine is the next
-best wood, and an old egg crate, which any grocer will be glad to get
-rid of, will furnish you with enough whittling material for a long time.
-
-The scale for measuring (Fig. 3) should be made first, as it is the
-tool most necessary in laying out the other tools. One of the thin
-strips from the side of the egg crate may be used for this. The
-outline of the scale must be drawn on the wood with a hard pencil. A “6
-H” is the best. The “H” means “hard,” and the number of H’s shows the
-degree of hardness. The pencil should be sharpened on both ends--one
-end rubbed to a fine point on sandpaper, and the other end to a chisel
-point. The sharp point is to mark, accurately, the points to which
-lines are to be drawn, and the chisel point is to draw the lines with.
-After the outline is drawn it may be cut.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
-
-First take off a splinter or two to determine the direction of the
-grain, because one long cut against the grain might spoil your work.
-When this is determined, you should cut down _almost_ to the outline,
-using a long, free stroke from the shoulder for the cutting in the
-direction of the grain. For the cross-grained cutting at the ends, the
-knife is held in the four fingers, with the thumb steadying the near
-side of the wood, and the cut is made toward the thumb. Only a very
-short cut may be made at a time, and then a bit of wood is clipped
-away so that the next cut may be made. This cutting, also, should be
-done near, but not on, the line. After the model is roughly cut out,
-it should be worked down very carefully to the lines, the beveled
-edge cut, and then sandpapered smooth all over. The sandpaper must be
-put over a small block of wood, and held very flat. Otherwise it will
-spoil a straight surface. Then the graduations are to be put on. If
-nothing better is at hand, the spacing may be done with mother’s tape
-measure. Lay off the spaces with the pointed end of the pencil, and
-then draw the lines which show the spacing, making those which show the
-sixteenths, 1/16″ long; the eighths, 1/8″ long; the quarters, 3/16″
-long; the halves, 5/16″, or the full width of the bevel. This must be
-done with a pencil, for ink would run into the wood and spread. The
-inch dimensions should be marked 1, 2, 3, etc., and a light coat of
-shellac or varnish will add much to the durability of the scale. The
-back edge of the scale may be used as a straight edge, and to lay the
-pencil against for drawing lines, but it should be remembered that the
-scale itself--that is, the graduated side--must never be used for
-this. If it were, the graduations would soon be spoiled.
-
-The tool which is most necessary next to the scale is the square (Fig.
-4), and this should also be made with great accuracy. It is used to
-test two adjoining edges, to see if they are square with each other.
-In making anything of wood, one of the largest surfaces is generally
-made perfectly true, and marked with a little cross (x), designating it
-as the “face.” One of the adjoining edges--not a cross-grained one--is
-also made true and square with the first surface, and marked with a
-second cross, as the “working edge.” Then all the other measuring and
-squaring is done from these two surfaces.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
-
-The piece of wood to be tested should be held in the left hand, on a
-level with the eye, and the square held in the right hand, with one of
-the inner edges resting against the wood, and the other projecting over
-it is moved back and forth. Any unevenness in the wood will readily be
-seen. The outside edges of the square may also be used for testing the
-evenness of wide flat surfaces. It is made like the pattern, of two
-strips of wood, with a fitted joint glued together.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
-
-The knife strop shown in Fig. 1 is a great help in whittling, because
-it will keep your knife in good condition. A piece of the heavier wood
-at the end of the egg crate may be used for this. It is made from a
-strip measuring 1-1/2″ wide by 11″ long, and the strip of leather (cut
-from a discarded razor strop) is glued on. The 1/8″ bevel is continued
-all the way around the handle on both sides to make it fit the hand.
-The hole in the end is to hang it up by, and may be made with a hammer
-and nail, or with a bit and brace if you have one.
-
-The pencil sharpener (Fig. 2), is also a very necessary help in
-whittling and it is very simple to make. A strip of thin wood 1-1/4″x7″
-forms the foundation. This is narrowed down at the handle end to 3/4″.
-The curves may be marked on the outline, free hand, and in cutting you
-must be very careful to remember the grain of the wood. The curves at
-the ends should be cut from each side toward the middle of the end,
-gradually working into a cross-cut. The curves at the sides must be cut
-from the wider part toward the handle, using the point of the knife,
-and working with great care so as not to split the wood. A strip of
-sandpaper 1″x3″ is glued on and the sharpener is complete.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
-
-With these tools finished a boy is ready to begin some real whittling,
-and make other models which will be quite as useful, and very much more
-attractive.
-
-[Illustration: KNIFE-STROP]
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICAL WORKBENCH
-
-
-A good practical workbench may be made by any boy who can handle the
-simplest tools and procure a little suitable lumber.
-
-The lumber should be bought at a lumber yard, in the rough, which will
-cost a great deal less than finished boards.
-
-It will require 26 ft. of two-by-four pine boards, 12 ft. of
-two-by-six’s, and 23 ft. of one-by-six’s. The two-by-four’s cost one
-and three-quarters cents a running foot, the two-by-six’s are two and
-a half cents, and the one-by-six’s, one and a half cents. The boards
-come in regular lengths, from ten feet up to sixteen, or in some cases,
-up to twenty-four feet long. It will be best to get a twenty-four foot
-one-by-six board if possible, a twelve foot two-by-six, one twelve foot
-and one fourteen foot two-by-four. This will make the total cost for
-boards one dollar and twelve cents.
-
-Aside from the pine boards for the bench itself it will require a piece
-of oak measuring three by four inches and thirty-four inches long, for
-the bench vise; a screw and handle for the vise (costing thirty-five
-cents at any hardware store); a pound of four inch nails; and two
-square headed iron bolts, one half inch in diameter and four inches
-long, each fitted with two iron washers and one square nut.
-
-Saw off, first, from the twelve foot two-by-four, four pieces
-thirty-three inches long. These are the legs of the bench, and they are
-to stand with their broad four-inch faces toward the ends of the bench.
-Then cut in each one of these joints like those shown in Fig. 1. The
-sides in which the joints are cut face toward each other at the ends of
-the bench and into them is fitted the supporting framework.
-
-For the lower framework cut from the fourteen foot two-by-four two
-pieces forty-two inches long and four pieces nineteen inches long. Two
-of the nineteen-inch pieces are to be left as they are, but the other
-two and the two forty-two inch pieces should have joints cut at the
-ends like Fig. 2. These joints, as well as the joints in the uprights,
-are cut with a saw, and the wood is split out with a chisel. Then these
-four jointed pieces are fitted together and glued or nailed to form
-a framework nineteen by forty-two inches. The four uprights are then
-fitted in place and nailed, increasing the width of the ends to
-twenty-three inches. Then the other two nineteen-inch pieces are fitted
-into the top of the uprights across each end, and nailed in place. Four
-braces (Fig. 3) for the ends are made from two sixteen-inch pieces of
-the one-by-six stock. Each piece is first cut in two, lengthwise, with
-a rip saw. This makes four pieces twenty inches long by three inches
-wide. Mark the center joint of each end of each piece. Then measure on
-both sides, from each end, a distance of one and a half inches. Connect
-these points with the end points by a line and saw off the corners,
-leaving on each end a right-angled point. The braces are then nailed in
-place as shown in Fig. 4.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.]
-
-This finishes the body part of the bench. Next, cut from the one-by-six
-board a piece fifty-six inches long. Fit it across the front of the
-frame, just even, or flush with the top, and projecting seven inches
-beyond the uprights at either end. Then nail in position.
-
-Cut from the twelve foot two-by-six board two pieces fifty-six inches
-long. Place one of them across the top of the bench at the extreme
-front, so that it is flush with the wide surface of the front board.
-Nail this to the end framework and nail the second piece in position
-just back of it.
-
-It is necessary for this much of the top to be very heavy, for this is
-where the heavy strain of the work will come. The remainder of the top
-is made of two strips of one-by-six wood. In order to make this even
-with the two front strips which are thicker it is necessary to put
-pieces underneath it at each end. For these cut a piece of one-by-six
-board twelve inches long and rip it in two. Place these strips along
-the end frame, then place the top boards on them and nail all in
-position. When this is done the whole top of the bench may be made
-partially smooth, if it is desired, with a jack plane. Then cut one
-more strip of one-by-six fifty-six inches long and nail across the back
-of the bench, allowing it to project three inches above the top.
-
-The vise, as it comes from the store, consists of a long, straight,
-square-headed screw about an inch in diameter, which ends in a round
-iron plate and a T-shaped pipe. The plate is loose but not removable.
-Through the T a long wooden handle fits. Beside this there is an
-elliptical plate holding a threaded pipe which the screw works in. To
-put it together, first make a piece from the remaining two-by-six like
-Fig. 5. This piece forms the inner side of the vise and fits _inside_
-of the front piece of the bench, just touching the under side of the
-top, and _outside_ of the lower framework. Its edge should be four
-inches in from the front leg of the bench. Corresponding holes are made
-with a bit and brace in the front piece of the bench and counter-sunk
-a half inch. The two pieces are then bolted together, the heads of
-the bolts and the iron washer fitting down in the counter-sink, and
-the other washer being placed under the nut on the other side. The
-receptacle for the vise screw is fastened in position through the back
-of Fig. 5.
-
-Next, the piece of oak is prepared for the vise jaw. It is slanted
-off at the ends like Fig. 6, the outer edges rounded, a hole somewhat
-larger than the vise screw cut through as shown, and a joint cut
-through with chisel and hammer near the bottom. Into this joint fit
-Fig. 7, a piece of wood one by four inches and twelve inches long,
-which is intended to keep the jaws of the vise approximately even.
-It fits into the oak with a drive fit and has holes zigzagged or
-“staggered” across it into which a round peg three inches fits. By
-placing this peg in different holes the bottom opening of the vise may
-be adjusted to correspond with the desired top opening.
-
-The long screw of the vise is slipped through the hole made for it, and
-the plate is screwed in place.
-
-[Illustration: _Work Bench Complete._]
-
-This completes a bench which will prove a great help to the boy
-workman, and which takes scarcely more time in making than it has in
-describing.
-
-
-
-
-WORKBENCH ACCESSORIES
-
-
-When you have made yourself this fine, big workbench you will find out
-very soon that there are a number of workbench accessories which will
-make it much more convenient and desirable.
-
-The first thing that will be missed is a tool rack. With tools
-scattered all over the bench it is difficult to do good work. It means
-a waste of time and sometimes a waste of temper, while, if the tools
-are hanging right before one’s eyes in an orderly row, each one may be
-taken as it is needed, and replaced again when one is through, and the
-work will go on smoothly.
-
-A single pine board six inches wide, one inch thick and sixteen feet
-long will make all the accessories one can want. It is better to
-procure a finished board from the planing mill. It will cost three or
-four cents a running foot--a total cost at the most of sixty-four cents.
-
-For the tool rack cut from the board two fifty-six-inch lengths. Cut
-one of these in two lengthwise with a rip saw and plane the sawed edge
-smooth and square with the face or wide, flat side of the board. With
-a pencil and scale mark the positions on the centers of the holes shown
-in Fig. 1. Then when the centers have been determined, drill them
-according to the sizes indicated, with a bit and brace. The first three
-holes at the left are to hold bits; the next two, chisel and gouge, and
-the others are for screw-drivers. These latter four, after the holes
-are drilled, are made open clear to the edge of the rack by sawing out
-a section from the front. This makes it possible to take the tools out
-without lifting them entirely out of the rack. From the right-hand end
-mark off a distance of twelve inches. Then, from the end to this line,
-cut two grooves as shown in the drawing. The forward one is rounded
-out with a gouge to hold a pencil while the back one is square and
-flat, cut with a chisel, to hold either a twelve-inch scale or a folded
-two-foot rule. In the front edge of this piece, about six inches from
-the right-hand end is driven a nail to hold the claw hammer.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of Work-bench Accessories.]
-
-The fifty-six-inch length which was not ripped in two is fitted at
-right angles to the back of this rack, lapping over the edge and flush
-with the top. It is nailed in position and two supporting brackets like
-Fig. 2 are fitted under each end of the rack for strength. When this
-is all fastened together, the whole rack is set up on top of the back
-pieces of the workbench and held in place by two cleats, three inches
-by eight which are screwed to both the back piece of the bench and the
-back piece of the rack.
-
-Underneath the holes for the bits there should be two nails to hold the
-brace. The jack plane, block plane, and spoke shave may stand on the
-bench underneath the rack, and screws or nails at the end of the bench
-will hold rip saw, cross-cut saw, and dust brush.
-
-Next in usefulness is the bench block shown in Fig. 3. For this cut one
-piece of wood six inches by eleven, and two pieces, six inches by two
-inches. All these pieces must have the grain running in the longest
-direction. When these are trued up, fit them together as shown, and
-fasten with one-and-three-quarter-inch wood screws. After completing
-this the corners are cut off. The block fits over the front edge of the
-bench near the right-hand end and forms a brace when one wants to hold
-a piece of wood steady for sawing.
-
-Next comes the bench stop, Fig. 4. When one is planing a wide, flat
-board the vise is useless. So holes are drilled in pairs in the top
-of the bench itself, and these bench stops are slipped in to form a
-buffer. A little piece of wood one by one by two is used, the grain of
-course running the long way. For half of the distance the stop remains
-square, while the other inch is rounded with a chisel to fit into the
-hole, which should be slightly more than an inch deep. Two of these
-stops will be needed.
-
-Every workbench needs a nail box. A good one may be made from two
-pieces three inches wide by fourteen inches long, which form the sides,
-two ends three inches by three, and a bottom piece five inches by
-fourteen. The side pieces are nailed to the end pieces, fitting over
-them, and the bottom fits over all. This makes the inside measurements
-three inches by twelve. Of course it is desirable to keep the different
-sizes of nails separate, so this is divided into as many compartments
-as are desired by partitions. These can be made from any old piece of
-wood about a half inch thick. They measure three by three inches and
-may be spaced however you like, except the one which is shown in Fig.
-5. This is to be placed in the middle and forms a handle as well as
-a partition. Just as convenient, though not quite as necessary, is a
-miter box. It consists of two side pieces five inches by twelve, and
-one bottom piece four inches by twelve. The side pieces fit down over
-the edges of the bottom piece and are nailed fast. There are no ends.
-When this much is done, take a forty-five degree triangle, and mark
-across the two top edges one perpendicular line, and one forty-five
-degree line in each direction, making them so that they do not overlap.
-Then saw straight down from these lines to the bottom piece. A miter
-box will prove itself a great convenience in sawing the corners of
-molding or anything which requires a fitted corner. The piece to be
-sawed is held firmly in the box and the saw guided through the slots.
-
-When a boy has made the bench and all these accessories, and has some
-tools, he will be equipped for big practical work.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE A TURNING LATHE
-
-
-Most boys have a speaking acquaintance with a turning lathe. Some
-boys know how to use one with good results. But to use one and own it
-too--that is a joy which few boys experience.
-
-After all, though, a lathe is not such a formidable machine, and if a
-boy is quick at catching an idea and working it out he can make one for
-himself.
-
-Most of the material can be procured from some machine shop at
-practically no cost, and the parts that have to be bought outright will
-cost very little.
-
-The foundation may be an old sewing-machine stand and the lathe is run,
-just as a sewing machine is, by foot power. In almost any junk shop or
-second hand shop you will find an old out-of-date sewing machine for
-sale. New machines can be bought so cheaply nowadays that a second hand
-one costs next to nothing.
-
-When you have procured this you must take it to pieces. The wooden top
-part is fastened to the iron frame by screws from underneath. Take
-these out, and the top and drawer at the sides may be lifted right off.
-Then take out the screw at the right hand side of the machine part and
-slip off the upper belt wheel. This upper belt wheel, the belt, the
-lower belt wheel, and the iron framework of the machine are all that
-will be needed for the lathe, and the rest you may discard, or put
-away in the “handy” pile for some future construction. The lower belt
-wheel is of course fastened to the frame, so that does not need to be
-disturbed.
-
-Next get a piece of hickory or some other hard wood twelve inches wide,
-three feet long and one-and-one-half inches thick. Cut a long, narrow
-slot in this from one end as is shown in Fig. 1. Then fasten this piece
-to the top of the iron frame with the same screws that fastened the top
-of the machine on before. The solid end of the wood should project two
-inches beyond the right-hand end of the frame where the belt is, and
-the slotted end will of course extend somewhat beyond the frame at the
-left. This is what is called the “bed” of the lathe. Now bore the two
-holes which the belt goes through.
-
-When this is done, measure the hole in the center of the upper belt
-wheel, where the shaft went through. It will probably be one half inch
-in diameter. Then get a piece of gas pipe twelve inches long and of the
-same diameter, outside measurement, as the hole, so that the wheel may
-be put on it with a “drive fit.” This simply means that the wheel fits
-so tightly that it must be driven on and, once on, it will not turn. It
-should be driven on far enough so that when the groove for the belt is
-in line with the groove on the lower belt wheel, the pipe will project
-the half inch beyond the solid end of the bed.
-
-Now you must make two supports, or “head blocks” for this. Cut from
-two-inch-thick hard wood two pieces like Fig. 2. The square hole is
-for the gas pipe to go through and must have a bearing fitted into it.
-Of course it would be easier to cut just a round hole slightly larger
-than the pipe for it to turn in, but this bearing, with much turning,
-would wear loose. So a one-inch square hole is cut; the gas pipe, with
-a piece of newspaper wrapped around it, is held in the exact center of
-the hole, the head block standing upright; and melted Babbitt metal is
-poured down through the hole in the top of the block. To do this pieces
-of cardboard should be fitted over the pipe and tacked to either side
-of the block, so that the space inside is like a mold. The metal
-which remains in the top hole forms a key to hold it. The Babbitt metal
-may be bought at a hardware store in small bars and melted in a kettle
-in the fire. It hardens quickly and when hard, the pipe may be removed,
-the paper taken off and you will have a permanent, durable bearing.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Turning Lathe.]
-
-Slip one of these head blocks on the pipe from each end, with an iron
-washer on each side of each block. The right hand block should be
-“flush” with the end of the bed, the pipe projecting a half inch beyond
-it. The other block should be spaced two inches back from the ends of
-the slot in the bed. The blocks are fastened to the bed with long wood
-screws which come up through the bed from underneath, and they are held
-in position on the gas pipe by making “prick punch” holes through the
-pipe close to the washers and using either “cotter pins” or bent wire
-through these. Then the end of the pipe, which projects over the slot
-should be filed so that it has four points, or teeth. This completes
-the head of the lathe, and is much the most complicated part.
-
-The rest of the lathe consists of a “tail block” and a tool rest,
-both of which are adjustable to any position desired. Fig. 3 shows
-the tail block. Like the head blocks, it is made of two-inch thick
-stock. The bottom of it is cut to slide back and forth in the slot.
-Just underneath it, on the under side of the bed, is a piece of wood
-four inches by two inches and one-inch thick which is fastened to the
-tail block by a screw through the center and which clamps the block
-in position at any required distance. At the point marked “P” a “lag”
-screw, which is simply a wood screw with a sharp point and a large flat
-head, is screwed through the block. The piece of wood to be turned is
-held in place by this lag screw and the filed teeth on the gas pipe.
-
-The pieces of the tool rest are shown in Fig. 4 and Fig. 5. Fig. 6
-shows it as it looks when it is put together in place on the bed of the
-lathe.
-
-Fig. 4 shows the tool rest itself--that is, the part upon which the
-chisel or gouge is steadied for cutting. This is fastened upright
-upon the end of Fig. 5, which is a standard which extends across
-the bed and is clamped in place, as the tail block is, to a block
-underneath, except that, instead of being screwed, it is fastened with
-a three-eighth inch bolt and nut.
-
-Fig. 7 shows the whole lathe “assembled,” or put together with each
-part marked according to its figure numbers so that you can see just
-how it goes.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7]
-
-All the material it has required has been:
-
-  One old sewing machine.
-  About fifty cents’ worth of hard wood.
-  One three-inch lag screw.
-  One three-eighths-inch bolt five inches long, with nut and washer.
-  Four iron washers for gas pipe.
-  One foot of gas pipe.
-  Seven three-inch wood screws.
-  A few cents’ worth of Babbitt metal.
-
-The result is a good practical lathe on which anything up to eight
-inches in diameter and twenty-one inches long may be turned; and I
-think you’ll all agree that it was well worth the making.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE A TOY TRAIN
-
-
-Clear the track there! Push the crib over in the corner. Pick up those
-blocks. Shove the doll’s house and blackboard out of the way. Hurry and
-put the old red candy lantern out of sight. We don’t want any danger
-signals here. The Twentieth Century Limited--the Fast Special of the
-play room--is coming.
-
-The construction of the Twentieth Century Limited follows close upon
-_the making of whittling tools_. A little train it is, just an engine,
-coal car, baggage car, and one passenger coach, but of course there
-may be any number of additional cars coupled on, provided the train
-proves popular and the nursery traffic is heavy. The train is made
-from cigar boxes. The floor of the engine is made from a flat piece of
-wood, two inches wide by four and one-half inches long, cut perfectly
-true and then pointed at one end (Fig. 1). Then the cab is made. Fig. 2
-shows the front of it--a piece of wood measuring two inches by one and
-three-quarters, and having two little holes three-eighths of an inch
-square cut for windows. The side pieces are an inch and a quarter by
-two inches, cut in the shape of Fig. 3, and each has one little window.
-The roof is an oblong piece two inches by one and a half. When the
-whole cab has been nailed together, it is placed in position on the
-floor of the engine, about a quarter of an inch from the rear end, and
-nailed there. For the boiler you can use one of mother’s basting thread
-spools. Chip off the ends, making them even with the part where the
-thread was wound, and then nail it to the floor from underneath. A spot
-on the upper side of the boiler is smoothed off, and a tiny spool is
-glued on for a smoke stack. The forward wheels are made from circular
-pieces an inch in diameter, and the “drivers” from pieces an inch and
-a half in diameter. Then there are bearings for the wheels, like Fig.
-4, those for the smaller wheels being an inch long, and those for the
-larger wheels three-quarters of an inch in length. They are glued to
-each side of the floor piece and the axles, made from lollypop sticks,
-are slipped through. These are cut three inches long, which allows
-plenty of room for the wheels to turn, and for a little nail to be put
-through like a cotter pin, to hold them on.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Toy Train.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Toy Train.]
-
-The coal car floor measures two inches square, the sides two inches
-by one, and the ends one and three-quarters by one. These are nailed
-together to form a little box, and four wheels and bearings like the
-forward ones on the engine are made. The couplings are made from
-little round brass hooks, the one on the forward end of each car being
-horizontal, and the one in the rear end perpendicular.
-
-The baggage car is a triumph of whittling, for it has a door that
-will slide back and forth just like a real one. The bottom and top of
-the car are oblong pieces of wood two inches by four and a half, and
-the end pieces measure two by two and a quarter inches. The sides are
-made like Fig. 5, with an opening an inch and a quarter square for a
-doorway. On the inside of the side pieces, extending to within a half
-inch of each end, and starting about an eighth of an inch from the top
-a groove is cut, the depth of the groove being about a quarter of an
-inch. The door itself is one and thirteen-sixteenths inches high by two
-inches wide, and has two very small, flat-headed, wood screws, screwed
-in near the top at an angle, so that the heads rest in this groove, and
-slide back and forth. Above the door is a strip of wood an eighth of
-an inch wide, and outside of this another strip a quarter of an inch
-wide, both of which are nailed in position, and keep the door from
-slipping out of the groove. Another screw forms a handle for the door,
-and when the car is put together it is not at all apparent how the door
-slides. Fig. 6 is a section cut through the side, above the doorway,
-and shows the groove and how the strips are put on.
-
-For the passenger car the floor is made first--like Fig. 7--the
-car floor itself measuring two inches by four and one-half, with a
-projection one inch by five-eighths at each end for a platform. The
-sides of the car (Fig. 8), are two inches by four and a half, with
-three holes one inch wide by three-quarters high for Pullman windows.
-The ends of the car are like Fig. 9. They are slipped over the
-platforms, the space one and one quarter inch by a half inch forming
-a doorway and the lower ends extending below the platform to form the
-side of the steps. The end of the platform is a piece measuring one
-inch by two inches, and is nailed in position so that the lower edge of
-it is even with the lower edge of the side pieces, the remainder of it
-extending above the platform for a railing. There are two steps on each
-side at each end--eight steps in all. The bottom ones measure a quarter
-of an inch wide and three-quarters of an inch long, while the upper
-ones are the same width, but only a half inch long, for they have to
-fit in between the ends of the car, and the ends of the platform. The
-roof of the car is like Fig. 10--a piece two inches by six and one-half
-inches with rounded ends, extending well over the platforms. Both the
-passenger and baggage cars have wheels exactly like the coal car. When
-these are done the train is coupled, and away she speeds. “Clear
-the track there! The Twentieth Century Limited is just pulling into
-Chicago, and she has made the trip from New York in eighteen hours.”
-
-
-
-
-OUT-DOOR TOYS
-
-
-This set of whittled outdoor toys ought to please almost any boy. With
-kite and fish line time coming soon and the wind blowing a gale for
-your weather vane, and the other fellows out ready to play “cat”--well,
-let’s see how to make all these toys.
-
-The kite stick in Fig. 1 is made from a piece of pine wood eight inches
-long, and, roughly cut out, about three-quarters of an inch square.
-This is smoothed down to five-eighths of an inch, and then you start
-in to make it round. First the four corners of the square are trimmed
-off evenly for the full length, making it an eight-sided stick, and
-then these corners are again trimmed, until finally the stick is round
-enough to be sandpapered smooth. It is better to draw a five-eighth
-inch circle on each end of the stick before you trim it down, so that
-you can see whether you are making a true round. When the line for the
-bevel is marked around one-eighth of an inch from the ends, the bevel
-is cut, the notch is cut around the middle, and the stick is ready to
-tie your kite string to.
-
-For the reel in Fig. 2 and also the weather vane in Fig. 7, it is
-better to select a piece of wood which is already “dressed”--that
-is, finished smooth to the thickness you require, because it is hard
-to make a broad surface true with a jack knife. Cigar boxes are
-three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and a piece of one will make a
-good, stout reel. In making all of these toys, the pattern should be
-drawn on the wood as far as possible with pencil, scale, and straight
-edge, before any cutting is done. The reel should be cut first into
-an oblong, two and a quarter inches by four and a quarter, then the
-corners are rounded so that the line will not catch on them, and lastly
-the “recessed edge” where the line is to be wound is made, cutting from
-each end of the opening toward the center, and gradually working it
-down even.
-
-[Illustration: (A) WHITTLED WEATHER VANE. (B) KITE STICK; “CAT”; REEL
-FOR FISH LINE. (C) “CAT” STICK.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Kite Stick, Reel, “Cat,” “Cat” Stick, and
-Weather Vane.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Weather Vane.]
-
-There are not many boys who don’t know how to play “cat.” It requires
-a good deal of skill, and if you don’t break anybody’s window or put
-out anybody’s eye, it’s a lot of fun. It requires two boys to play this
-game. You lay the cat down flat--as in Fig. 3--and, with the stick
-(Fig. 4), held by the octagonal end, hit the cat sharply on one
-end, and as it flies up bat it forward. It is up to the other fellow
-to catch it, and if he does, it counts you out, and gives him a turn.
-But if he doesn’t catch it, you measure with the stick, end over end
-from where you stand to where the cat has fallen, and that counts so
-many points for you. Then the other fellow has another chance to count
-you out by throwing the cat from where it fell and trying to hit your
-stick. If it falls short or goes beyond, you again measure the distance
-with your stick, and that too counts in your favor.
-
-The cat is made from a piece of pine four inches long and an inch
-square. The center section is marked off and then a line is drawn
-exactly across the middle of each end--not diagonally, but straight
-up and down. The sides are slanted down to this line, like a wedge,
-and then the other two sides are slanted to the middle point at each
-end. The wood for the stick is twelve inches long and five-eighths of
-an inch square, and is worked down just as the kite stick was, except
-that the handle is left eight sided, while the rest is made round. The
-octagon and circle which are shown with parallel diagonal lines on them
-are “cross sections” and show what the stick would look like if it
-were cut straight through at that point.
-
-The weather vane is the hardest toy to make. Fig. 5 shows three
-views of one piece of the wheel--a top view, a front view, and an
-end view,--just as though you looked at the piece in front and then
-squarely at the top, and then turned it around and looked at the end.
-A piece of wood three-quarters of an inch square by five inches long
-is used for this, and two of them are made and fitted together--making
-a wheel with four arms. It is better to cut the section for the joint
-first, for the wood is less apt to split before it has been weakened
-by any other cutting. This is a similar cutting to that in the reel,
-except that the grain lies in the opposite direction, and the cutting
-should be done from the center of the opening toward each end. Then
-opposite corners are slanted down so that the ends of the arms are thin
-and aslant to catch the wind, as the end view shows. The dotted lines
-are the edges which are not visible. After the two pieces are fitted
-together a two-inch nail is driven through both and into the end of
-Fig. 6, which is not beveled. It should be turned around until it works
-loosely and will turn easily in the wind.
-
-The stick in Fig. 6 is seven and three-eighths inches long by a half
-inch square. After the section three-quarters of an inch long, where
-the nail hole is shown, and which remains square, is marked off, the
-rest of the stick is made eight sided. Then the eight-inch bevel shown
-on the end is cut, and, for a distance of two and a half inches from
-that end, a V-shaped groove is cut on two opposite sides. This end of
-the stick is to slide into the opening in the end of the wing (Fig. 7).
-Another two-inch nail joins this piece to the upright stick (Fig. 8)
-and forms a pivot for it to swing around on. The wing is a flat piece
-six and a half inches long by two and a half wide. The curves are laid
-out with a compass (R. in the measurements denotes radius) and the
-2-1/2″-opening is made as shown in one end. The little cross-section
-shows how it is cut to a pointed edge which slides into the groove in
-Fig. 6.
-
-The upright stick is nine inches long by three-quarters of an inch
-square, and is worked down similarly to the other sticks, except that
-the end which is round is tapered from three-quarters to one-half inch.
-The “break” in the drawing simply means that it is longer than is
-actually shown. When the windmill is fitted together and put out where
-it will catch the wind, a boy will find that it was well worth making.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DESK SET
-
-
-A desk set is a great addition to a boy’s desk. If he has a pen tray
-he knows where his pencils and pens are to be found without rummaging
-through a tangled mess of top strings and marble bags and nails. If
-he puts away on the bill file that _I Owe You_ that Billy Smith gave
-him for a pair of rabbits, it won’t be all crumpled up and beyond
-identification when Billy gets his next month’s allowance. When you
-come to think of it, a desk set has a great many advantages--and then,
-there’s the fun of making it.
-
-The desk set which is shown in the picture comprises five pieces--an
-ink well stand, a bill file, a pen tray, an envelope opener, and a book
-rack. It is all, with the exception of the envelope opener, made of
-one-eighth-inch basswood.
-
-For the ink well stand (Fig. 1) use a piece of wood, four inches
-square. The two-and-a-half-inch opening--which is the size of the
-average glass ink well--should be cut first, before the corners are
-weakened by cutting out the half-inch rounds. After this is done, cut
-the corners, and last, the eight-inch bevel. Fig. 2 shows one of the
-feet of the ink well. It is shown, by dotted lines, in position in
-Fig. 1. The four feet are glued to the bottom of Fig. 1 and the inside
-corners project inside the opening, making four half-inch squares on
-which the ink well may rest. The feet are made from pieces of wood one
-and seven-eighths inches square, cut in the shape shown, and ornamented
-with a little design in “chip” carving. This chip carving is ordinarily
-done with what is called a skew chisel--that is, a chisel which is not
-square at the end, but which has one point an eighth of an inch or
-more longer than the other, so that when it is put into the wood, one
-end of the cut will be deep while the other is barely cut out at all.
-However, it may be done with a jack knife, if you are very careful.
-In the “motif” shown in Fig. 2, the points where the three lines from
-adjoining corners meet are where the deepest part of the cuts should
-be. This is done with the knife held point down and the thumb on the
-end of the handle. Then, with the knife still in the same position in
-the hand, you chip out the wood with a sliding cut toward you, slanting
-it down to the depth of the cut. It is a little difficult to
-describe this without seeing it done, but if you look at the patterns
-and the photographs, and experiment a little on a piece of wood, you
-will find it easy.
-
-[Illustration: (A) FILE. (B) INK WELL. (C) PEN TRAY.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of an Ink Well Stand, a Bill File and a Pen
-Tray.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Pen Tray, an Envelope Opener and a Book
-Rack.]
-
-Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 show the bill file. Fig. 3 is made from a three and
-a quarter-inch square, cut similarly to the foot of the ink well, and
-with the same motif carved on each corner. It should be remembered in
-cutting the recessed edges that the sides running _with_ the grain must
-be cut _from_ each end, and the cross-cut sides cut _toward_ each end.
-Fig. 4 is cut like Fig. 1, except that there is no opening in it. It
-is then glued to the top of Fig. 3, and a three-inch nail is driven up
-through the center.
-
-Fig. 5 shows one side of the pen tray. It is made from a piece of wood
-nine inches long at the bottom, tapered to seven and three-eighths
-inches at the top, and one and seven-eighth inches wide. The motif
-for the carving is made by putting together two of the squares shown
-in Fig. 2 and then repeating this again and again. It makes a very
-pretty and effective decoration. Fig. 6 is one of the end pieces,
-and is decorated in the same way. Fig. 7 is a cross-section showing
-the construction of the pen tray. For this you should first make two
-oblongs, seven and three-eighth inches long, one of them being one
-and three-eighths, and the other, one and one-half inches wide. These
-are fastened together at right angles, the long one topping over the
-shorter, with tiny nails. Then a piece measuring two inches by one and
-one-quarter is nailed to each end, to hold the tray firm. Next, the top
-edge all around is beveled--the side edges, so that the sides (Fig. 5)
-may be fitted on straight up and down, and the ends, at such an angle
-that they will not interfere in putting on the end pieces (Fig. 6).
-Then the sides and ends are glued in position, and the tray is finished.
-
-For the envelope opener in Fig. 8, a piece of gumwood five and a half
-inches long by a half inch square is used. For two and a half inches
-from the end it is reduced to an octagonal shape. Then the notches
-are cut, and the end of the handle--four sides only, not the entire
-eight--beveled. Then the blade is cut, curving down from the handle,
-and reducing the blade to an even thickness of an eighth of an inch.
-When this is quite even the end is pointed, and the entire outside edge
-of the blade is beveled down from both sides, to a cutting edge.
-
-[Illustration: BOOK RACK]
-
-The base of the book rack (Figs. 9 and 10), is made from two pieces of
-wood measuring four inches by nine, which are cut as shown, to fit
-and slide within each other. It measures thirteen inches, closed, and
-sixteen inches, open. A good way to fasten the pieces together so that
-they will slide easily and yet be firm, is with strips of thin sheet
-brass, which can be bought very cheaply. A strip three-quarters of an
-inch wide is passed around the rack at D with both pieces in position,
-lapped and fastened to D. Another similar piece is passed around at C
-and fastened to C. Then the ends (Fig. 11) are made. This requires two
-pieces four inches wide by four and a half long, with the grain running
-up and down. The top is made a little prettier by a semi-circular curve
-and a reverse quarter circle at each side of it. The deep carving is
-a trifle more elaborate than on the other things, and must be done
-carefully where the cuts all meet at the bottom.
-
-After measuring and finding the position of the points “a” and “b”
-you should use these as centers from which to make the curves which
-determine the outline of your design. The cutting is done exactly as
-you did before. When these are finished they should be fastened on top
-of the base, at either end, with little brass hinges on the inside. A
-strip of wood four inches long by three-quarters of an inch wide is
-placed at the lower edge of the end pieces, on the outside, for added
-strength, and the screws fastening the hinges will hold it in place.
-
-This completes the actual making of the desk set. It may be
-sandpapered, or it may be varnished, or, if you are fortunate enough
-to have a mission desk, it may be stained to match. In any case it is
-worth having.
-
-
-
-
-WILD ANIMALS YOU CAN MAKE
-
-
-With a circus folder or animal book for a copy, a few old cigar boxes,
-and a jack knife, a very lively and life-like menagerie can be made.
-
-Cut the cigar boxes apart, and sandpaper the pieces very smooth.
-Then take a pencil and sketch as well as you can the animals in the
-pictures--at least the bodies of them, for the legs are to be attached
-afterward, so that they can stand and “do things.”
-
-The cutting must be done very, very carefully, for the outlines make
-so many different angles with the grain of the wood. It is not in
-the least like straight cutting with the grain, or even straight
-cross-cutting, and the wood has an irritating habit of splitting off
-some vital part of the animal’s anatomy.
-
-It is impossible to make the tails out of wood, so they are made of
-heavy string, glued in place. For the monkey, you can make a tail of
-wire, so that he can swing by it.
-
-[Illustration: Patterns of Hippo and Tiger.]
-
-[Illustration: WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS
-
-Giraffe, Camel]
-
-[Illustration: Patterns of Monkey and Giraffe.]
-
-[Illustration: Patterns of Bear and Lion.]
-
-[Illustration: WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS
-
-Bear, Lion, “Darwin”]
-
-Make the legs of the animals separately and fasten them on to the
-bodies with tiny nails. Place the two fore legs or two hind legs in
-position on either side of the body piece, and drive through them a
-short wire nail, a very little longer than is necessary to go through
-the three thicknesses of wood. Then rest the head of the nail on a
-piece of iron, and hammer the point, forming a little rivet to pivot
-the legs. The feet must also be made separately, and fastened on in the
-same way, so that, whatever position the legs are in, the feet will
-remain level.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE A SET OF MISSION FURNITURE
-
-
-A very attractive set of furniture suitable for a doll’s nursery,
-may be whittled from pieces of old cigar boxes. It consists of four
-pieces--a “Craftsman” bed, a chair, a table, and a chest of drawers.
-
-For the head of the bed take a piece of wood four inches square, and,
-placing it with the grain of the wood running up and down, mark it out
-like Fig. 1. As a general rule, the grain of the wood should lie with
-the longest dimension, but in all the upright pieces of this set it
-must run up and down. Outline first the “recessed edge,” which forms
-the legs of the bed, scoring it lightly with the point of the knife.
-Then cutting a little bit out at a time, and working from the center
-toward each end, bring it down to the line. The two openings, an eighth
-of an inch by a half inch, for the joints, must be cut with the point
-of the knife--the ends first, then the sides, and lastly the wood is
-chipped out, and the opening is evened up. The foot of the bed is
-identical with the head except that is three inches high instead of
-four.
-
-Next come the side pieces--two pieces seven inches long and one inch
-wide, cut like Fig. 2. The half-inch ends slide through the openings
-in the head and foot of the bed, and fasten with little wedge-shaped
-pegs like Fig. 5. Inside each of these side pieces, and “flush” with
-the bottom edge, glue a strip cut like Fig. 3, and fit in five little
-slats three and three-eighths inches long by a half inch wide (Fig. 4).
-Then, to complete it and make it look as much like a Craftsman bed as
-possible, paste on the head a panel of light brown wrapping paper, on
-which are four little conventional kittens, painted in Van Dyke brown.
-
-The top of the table (Fig. 6) is a piece four inches square. The end
-pieces (Fig. 7) are cut similarly to the head and foot of the bed,
-with the same recessed edge and the same openings, varying only in the
-outside dimensions. The sides too (Fig. 8), are similar to the sides
-of the bed, except that they are of course, much shorter. Slip them
-through the openings in the end pieces, fasten them with four little
-pegs, glue the top on, and the table is done.
-
-[Illustration: DOLLS’ CHAIR AND TABLE, WHITTLED IN MISSION STYLE]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a “Craftsman” Bed, a Table and a Chair.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Chair and a Chest of Drawers.]
-
-The chair is built on the same general lines as the table and bed.
-The chair back (Fig. 9) measures two and a quarter inches wide
-by three and one-half inches high, while the front upright piece is
-exactly similar but only an inch and one-half high--just high enough
-for dolly to swing her feet comfortably. When these and the side
-pieces (Fig. 10) are done and put together, glue on a piece one and
-five-eighths inches by two and a quarter (Fig. 11) for the seat.
-
-The construction of the chest of drawers is a little more elaborate.
-Make first two side pieces like Fig 12. They measure two and a quarter
-inches wide by three and one-half high, and have a recessed edge a
-quarter of an inch deep at the bottom to form feet, and three openings
-in each side for the partitions between the drawers. There are one deep
-drawer at the top, and two shallower ones below it. Make three pieces
-like Fig. 13, four inches long by one and three-quarters wide. The
-little square and piece for the joint are not exactly in the middle,
-and the longer space goes toward the back, but is intended to leave a
-little open space of a half inch at the back.
-
-Next make three pieces for the fronts of the drawers (Fig. 14), two
-of them five-eighths of an inch wide, and one measuring an inch and a
-quarter. In each of these make two holes for the knobs. The drawers
-themselves (Fig. 15) are made of light weight pasteboard. The bottom
-dimensions remain the same of course for all--two and three-quarter
-inches by two--but the depths of the sides must be one and one-quarter
-inches for the wider, and five-eighths of an inch for the narrower
-ones. When these are cut out, fold them on the dotted lines to form a
-box, with the sides which lap over each other at the front. The knobs
-of the drawers are made of large beads. Put a piece of string through
-each bead, and then push the two ends of string through the hole in the
-front of the drawer, and through a corresponding hole in the pasteboard
-drawer itself. Then tie the two ends of string from the right-hand
-knob to the two pieces from the left-hand knob in a firm square knot,
-accomplishing the triple purpose of holding the knobs in position,
-fastening the front piece on to the drawer, and holding the drawer in
-shape. An oblong piece of wood two and a quarter inches by three and a
-quarter (Fig. 16) makes the top, and another four inches by three and a
-quarter forms the back.
-
-[Illustration: DOLLS’ WHITTLED CHEST OF DRAWERS]
-
-[Illustration: WHITTLED DOLLS’ BED]
-
-
-
-
-TOYS THAT HIDE IN THE WOOD BOX
-
-
-The farm barn with its loft hung with cobwebs and the great hay mows,
-and the farm wagons to scramble out and in is surely a delight to the
-country boy; but if one corner of the barn has a big pile of clean,
-smooth blocks and sticks of kindling wood, the charm of the place will
-be redoubled.
-
-A glance, only, at a heap of ordinary, everyday kindling wood will
-suggest all sorts of plays to the resourceful boy. With the aid of
-a few simple tools, a hammer, a light saw, and some wire nails, the
-pieces of wood may be changed into crude, but realistic toys that will
-give the little folks quite as much pleasure as any to be found in a
-toy shop.
-
-Look, first, at the building possibilities of a pile of kindling
-wood. The long, straight sticks may be balanced on the barn floor to
-represent a regiment of soldiers. With penciled faces, and soldier caps
-they make very fine little men; and if there are two opposing armies,
-a most exciting sham battle may be carried on with horse chestnuts
-and green apples for ammunition, and a prize for the general whose
-kindling-wood forces stand up the longest.
-
-A miniature pig pen may be built by piling up kindling-wood sticks in
-log-cabin fashion. The sticks selected for the pen should be, as nearly
-as possible, of the same length. Two sticks should be laid parallel.
-These are then connected by laying other sticks across their ends. The
-boy should continue building in this manner until the pig pen is of
-a good height. A very fine, fat pig may be made of a small cucumber,
-having twigs stuck into his body for legs, one of the vine tendrils for
-a curly tail and melon seeds for ears.
-
-A log house is constructed by building a foundation similar to the
-pig pen. The roof is formed by laying a row of sticks, quite close
-together, across the top. A family of little clothes pin dolls may live
-most comfortably in a kindling wood house.
-
-In front of the house there should be a strong, rail fence to protect
-the inmates from any Indians who may come in while the builder is
-away. To build a Virginia rail fence, two sticks of kindling wood
-should be crossed in the shape of a letter V. A third stick is added
-at a similar angle with the second stick. This form of building is
-continued until the fence is of the required length. Going back to the
-first stick, a second layer of sticks is started on top of the first
-layer; and the fence may be built as high as one wishes by the addition
-of a third and a fourth layer.
-
-There are ever so many playthings that can be built from the wood found
-in the wood pile. A boy who is clever with his jack knife will be able
-to make a set of ten pins from sticks of kindling wood by carving
-little round heads at the ends of the sticks. Very straight bits of
-wood which will balance well should be chosen for the ten pins. He can
-also carve quaint wooden dolls for the little sister.
-
-The accompanying illustration shows a toy barnyard that was made by a
-group of children. Their only tools were a couple of hammers, a toy
-saw, some nails and a jack knife. The only materials used were found in
-the wood pile in the wood-shed.
-
-The barnyard fence is constructed from lath. Long strips are used for
-the bars of the fence. The fence posts are bits of lath, also, carved
-in six-inch lengths, pointed at the top with a knife, and nailed to
-the longer strips. Bits of leather are tacked in place for the gate
-hinges. Bits of kindling wood split into narrow sections are nailed
-together for the pig pen and the cow shed. Some old wooden boxes are
-used for the farm wagon and the wheelbarrow, the curved edges of the
-wheelbarrow being made with a jack knife. The box cover is used as
-wheel material, two circles being cut out of the soft wood with a jack
-knife and fastened to the body of the wagon with dowel sticks. Another
-box is mounted on a standard of lath and forms a very realistic pigeon
-house. The chicken coops are little wood squares nailed together at
-an angle of 90° with bits of lath fastened across the front. With the
-addition of a rude barn made from scraps of wood, a dog house--which is
-only a small edition of the barn--and a cattle shed, the farmyard is
-complete--a crude but unfailing source of amusement for many rainy days.
-
-[Illustration: TOY BARNYARD MADE OF KINDLING WOOD]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Sled, a Chicken Coop and a Table.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Cart.]
-
-One of the simplest toys to make of wood basket scraps is a little
-play sled. For this you will need three oblong pieces of wood--one of
-them (Fig. 1) measuring four inches wide by seven inches long, and the
-other two (Fig. 2) measuring two and a half inches wide by nine and
-one-half inches long. Some pieces of an old packing box about a half
-inch thick will do very nicely for these. Mark the outlines first with
-a pencil; then cut them out with the saw, and “true them up” with
-a knife--that is, take off the little roughnesses that the saw has
-left, and make the edges perfectly straight and square. Next the two
-long side pieces which you have made must be shaped. Measure off on the
-lower edge (with the piece standing in position as though it were on
-the sled), two inches from the front end. Connect this by a line with
-the upper front corner, and cut it. Then round off the lower end of
-this cut so that it curves into the bottom. Now make a nail hole near
-the front end of each side piece for a string to go through, nail the
-side pieces to the other oblong which you made for the top, and the
-little sled is done.
-
-Another very simple toy to make of this material is a little chicken
-coop. This is made of one square piece of wood and another piece which
-is almost square. The first piece (Fig. 3) measures seven inches each
-way, and the other one (Fig. 4) measures seven inches in one direction,
-and in the other direction seven inches less the thickness of the wood.
-This is because one piece laps over the end of the other, and the end
-of the first piece forms part of the other side of the coop. When these
-pieces are cut and made perfectly square and true, lap the longer piece
-over the end of the shorter so that it will be just even with the
-surface, and nail in position. For the slats (Fig. 5) cut some strips
-an inch wide and thinner than the sides of the coop. Lath is good if
-you have it. Two of these strips are ten inches long, two are seven
-inches, and two are four inches. The longest ones are nailed across the
-open sides of the coop, one on each side, an inch above the bottom. The
-middle-sized ones are nailed two inches above these, and the shortest
-ones two inches higher. Then the ends of these strips are sawed off
-almost even with the coop.
-
-A little table may be made from one block of wood six inches square,
-and four cylinders three and a half inches long. For the table top
-(Fig. 6) select a piece of wood about an inch thick. Make this true,
-and smooth the top with sandpaper. Then mark on the under side a square
-which is four inches on a side, and exactly an inch away from each side
-of the table top. At the corner of this inside square are to be made
-the holes for the table legs. For these holes you will have to use
-a bit and brace, and make the holes one inch in diameter and a half
-inch deep. If you haven’t a bit and brace, you can, with a little more
-trouble, whittle out the holes. For the table legs (Fig. 7) take four
-pieces of wood one inch square and three and one-half inches long.
-By whittling off each long corner edge you can make these from square
-prisms into octagonal, or eight-sided prisms. Then keep shaving off
-these corner-edges until the prisms are so many-sided that they are
-practically round. Smooth them with sandpaper, and glue in place in the
-holes in the under side of the table top.
-
-A strong little cart may be made almost as easily as these other wood
-toys. Cut from some pieces of wood three quarters of an inch thick,
-two side pieces (Fig. 8) measuring three inches by ten inches, two
-end pieces (Fig. 9) three inches by five inches, and one bottom piece
-(Fig. 10) five inches by eleven and a half inches. In the center of
-one of the end pieces make a nail hole for the string to go through.
-Nail the sides and ends together, lapping the end pieces over the ends
-of the side pieces. Then nail the bottom piece on. For the shafts of
-the wheels (Fig. 11) take two pieces of wood nine inches long and one
-inch square. For a space of two inches in from each end make the shafts
-cylindrical just as you did the table legs, leaving the center portion,
-which is five inches long, square. Nail these shafts to the bottom of
-the cart at points two and a half inches from each end. Next cut from
-1 inch-thick wood four wheels (Fig. 12), three and a half inches in
-diameter. These may be cut out roughly with a saw, and worked down to
-the marked line with the knife. Then cut in the center of each of these
-wheels a hole about one and one-sixteenth inches in diameter--enough
-larger than the shaft so that the wheels will turn easily. Slip the
-wheels in place, and drive into the shaft from opposite sides, outside
-of each wheel, two small finishing nails. These are to keep the wheels
-in place, and must be driven in carefully so as not to split the shafts.
-
-These are all attractive wood basket toys to make, and besides this,
-each one of them may be adapted, by enlarging, for some real use. The
-sled, with the addition of iron strips for runners, may be really used;
-or by using two sleds and an extra board fastened to both so that they
-will turn, it may be made into a “bob-sled” or “double.” The chicken
-coop, enlarged, will comfortably accommodate the mother hen and her
-brood of chicks which are the beginning of every boy’s first poultry
-venture. The little table may grow into a flower stand, and the cart,
-made larger and stronger, will rival any shop-bought express wagon for
-durability and comfort.
-
-[Illustration: A SET OF DOLLS’ FURNITURE MADE BY GLUEING TOGETHER
-BLOCKS OF KINDLING WOOD]
-
-
-
-
-THE WONDERFUL DODO BIRD
-
-
-A very long, long time ago, in the far off country of Switzerland,
-which is the land of high mountains and goats and tourists, there was a
-wonderful bird. Nobody ever saw him near by, for he lived in a forest
-of alpenstocks, and he had the longest kind of legs, so that no matter
-how fast the tourists pulled up the alpenstocks, or how hard they tried
-to catch him, he always got away. The only way any one could see him
-was to watch the mountain tops, for when the weather was pleasant, he
-would climb up and stand there outlined clearly against the sky, his
-long legs making him taller than anything around him, and he would
-bob up and down--first his head and then his tail, and then his head
-again--and wave his plume and call, “Do-do, do-do.”
-
-The peasants made little dodo birds whittled out of wood, and sold them
-to the tourists, and because a real dodo bird was only hatched once
-in a blue moon, and there are no more blue moons, why, the ones the
-peasants made are the only dodo birds left. And this is how they made
-them.
-
-The foundation of the bird’s body (Fig. 1) is a chunky piece of wood
-an inch and a half square by three inches long. On each end of this
-is marked a circle--an inch and a half in diameter, which makes it
-just touch each edge. Then by cutting from circle to circle, as
-nearly straight as possible, the wood is made into a three-inch-high
-cylinder. Next one whole end is rounded off like the large end of an
-egg. The next steps in making the dodo bird are not quite as simple. A
-straight line is drawn all the way around the body, from end to end,
-which divides it into two equal parts. At the end of the line which
-represents the middle of the bird’s back is measured off a space a
-quarter of an inch on either side. This makes a half-inch space which
-is the tip of his tail, and from these points lines are drawn on the
-flat end surface, to complete the four-sided figure shown in the end
-view of Fig. 1, which is the whole end of his tail. It tapers from a
-half inch at the top to about a quarter inch at the bottom, and when
-it is all finished, the bottom is slanted in a trifle. Next the bottom
-part is whittled up in a curve which meets the lower end of the tail,
-and the rest of the body is whittled in the shape shown in the side
-view of Fig. 1. This part can’t be done by lines because it is a
-gradual curve all over. When this is done two flat slanting surfaces
-are whittled off for the sides of the tail.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Dodo Bird.]
-
-Now you are ready to make the grooves for the head and tail feathers
-to go in. Part of the lower center line has been whittled off and will
-have to be replaced. Then, measuring three-sixteenths of an inch on
-each side of this line, make parallel lines which shall extend around
-the lower part of the body from the end of the tail to a point on the
-front end just a quarter of an inch below the top. A space a half inch
-wide is left in the middle of the bottom for the legs to fasten on, and
-the rest is to be made into the grooves as shown on the pattern. The
-easiest way to do this is to cut as far in as possible, on the parallel
-lines which you have drawn, with a small saw. Then chip the wood out
-with a small chisel, and, with the chisel held bevel side down, round
-out the bottoms of the grooves. If you haven’t such a chisel though,
-you can manage with a knife.
-
-When the body is done, the rest is easier. Fig. 2 shows the head, made
-from a piece of wood two and a half inches long by one and one-eighth
-wide and a quarter inch thick. The outline is marked and whittled into
-shape, and the beak is slanted down to a point. One quarter of an inch
-from the end of the neck a hole is made for pivoting, the eyes are
-marked in with a pencil, and three rows of marks are made across the
-neck with a little pattern marking wheel. These may also be made around
-the body and will add to the beauty of the dodo bird. His plume is made
-of a soft, downy chicken feather, stuck into a hole in the top of his
-head and glued in place.
-
-The tail feather (Fig. 3) is shaped like the feathered end of an arrow.
-The “feathered” part is one inch wide by two and a half long, and
-another inch in length forms the pivoting part. This end is a quarter
-inch wide and five-sixteenths thick, and the “feathers” are cut in
-from each side with a slanting cut as shown in the drawing. The bottom
-is left perfectly level, but the top is slanted down, with three flat
-cuts, to a sharp edge at the end. A hole is made from side to side, a
-quarter of an inch back from the small end, for pivoting. Two small
-nails driven through the body, with the head and tail feathers in
-position, form the pivots. They must be driven carefully so as not to
-split the wood, and must be placed so that the head and tail feathers
-will work up and down very freely.
-
-The legs (Fig. 4) are pieces of wood three and a half inches long, a
-half inch wide, and a quarter of an inch thick. They are first whittled
-in an elliptical shape. Then the lower part, for a space of two and a
-quarter inches is tapered back from the front to give an appearance of
-standing very straight. At the upper end, for a quarter of an inch from
-the top, half of the wood is cut away, and the remaining part is fitted
-into holes cut in the body, three quarters of an inch apart, and glued.
-
-The standard for the dodo (Fig. 5) is made like a small wooden vise. It
-is a flat piece of wood three and a half inches long by two inches wide
-and three quarters of an inch thick. One end is beveled slightly, and
-one end of the top is curved down slightly.
-
-In the remaining flat surface on the top two holes are whittled out
-into which the dodo’s feet are to be glued. Then a space two inches
-long and one inch wide is cut out to form the jaws of the vise. To
-tighten the vise there must be some sort of a screw through the lower
-jaw. A wooden thumb screw is not easy to get, so the best plan is to
-get a bolt about three eighths of an inch in diameter. Then cut a hole
-almost as large in your wood, and screw the bolt in, forcing it to
-cut its own “thread” in the soft wood.
-
-[Illustration: THE DODO BIRD]
-
-Fig. 6 is the weight which makes the dodo work. It is a piece of wood
-two and a quarter inches high by an inch and seven-eighths square. This
-is made into a cylinder and rounded at one end precisely as you did
-with the body. Then a circle is marked around it a quarter of an inch
-back from the flat end, and this end is slightly rounded off. It may be
-decorated or not, as you choose.
-
-Now you are ready to make the dodo bird work. Take two pieces of
-string--stout, but not too heavy--about twelve inches long. Fasten an
-end of one of them--with a tiny wedge and some glue--into the end of
-the dodo’s neck, and the other into the small end of the tail. Then
-bring the two pieces together and knot them about an inch from the
-other end. Fasten these two ends into the top of the weight just as you
-did the single ends.
-
-Now fasten the vise securely on a shelf somewhere, and swing the weight
-to and fro like the pendulum of a clock. The dodo will bob first his
-head and then his tail and then his head again, and you can almost hear
-him calling “Do-do” way off on the mountain there. He’s a source of
-never-ending fun, boys, and besides playing with him yourself, you can
-just watch and see how few grown-ups can go by him and resist swinging
-the pendulum.
-
-
-
-
-A FLEET OF TOY BOATS
-
-
-Who remembers the mill pond down at the farm, clean, and high, with
-trees all about--a capital place for sailing boats? It is so small
-that, directly a toy ship is started on its voyage, you can run around
-the other side and meet her.
-
-There is the trout brook, too, down in the woods, where everything is
-cool and still. There isn’t a sound as you sit on the bank save when
-a mouse comes rustling along, pushing his way through the leaves with
-his queer little pointed nose, or a hedgehog plods by, blind and deaf,
-never seeing you at all.
-
-If you should launch a toy boat in the brook, where do you suppose it
-would sail to? You will follow it a little way. Sometimes it will get
-caught in the ferns, or it may lie for a minute, stranded, on a rock,
-or it will overturn as it shoots the rapids. You start it on again with
-the long pole you cut from the willow tree, but presently the boat will
-sail away, out of a child’s sight, down the brook.
-
-Perhaps it will pick up a crew of little brownie sailor men. Perhaps
-it will stop somewhere to load a cargo of butterfly’s gowns. You will
-lose sight of it though. That is what always happens to one’s toy ships.
-
-A boy can make himself a whole fleet of toy boats to play with in the
-mill pond and the trout brook. If one of them does go sailing away to
-Fairyland--why, what does it matter with all the rest of the fleet just
-tugging away at their ropes, waiting to be launched?
-
-The little boats are the nicest of all, because one may have so many
-of them. Out in the woods there are some of last year’s walnuts lying
-on the ground. Split one in half with a jack-knife, and take out all
-the meat, leaving the inside smooth and white. Glue a scrap of paper
-to a toothpick, and fasten this little mast to the inside of the half
-walnut shell with a drop of glue. There is a real fairy craft, fit for
-a dragon fly to ride in. Just watch it toss and float and sail away on
-the make-believe waves.
-
-[Illustration: A CORK RAFT]
-
-[Illustration: A CORK SAIL BOAT]
-
-There are so many eggs in the barn, you can surely have one. Do you
-know how to blow an egg? Make a tiny hole with a pin in each end,
-then, by blowing steadily into one end, the contents of the egg may
-be emptied out of the other. You will be able to cut the egg shell
-lengthwise, now, with your jack-knife. If you have some paper strips
-you can bind the edges of the egg boat to make it a trifle stronger.
-Glue two paper seats across the top and add a pair of oars made of
-toothpicks. A tiny paper doll will enjoy a ride in the egg-shell boat.
-
-Out in the barn where you found the egg, there is a whole big bin full
-of corn cobs. Such light, clean playthings they are! They will make a
-stout little raft to float about in the mill pond. You will need to
-select eight corn cobs, all of the same size and length. Lay them side
-by side on the barn floor. Then split up an old berry basket, and cut
-two or more of the thin strips of wood from the side exactly as long as
-the raft is to be wide, lay these strips of wood across the corn cobs
-and nail them in place with tacks. The corn-cob raft is done. It is so
-light that it can be loaded with quite a cargo, two or three rubber
-dolls who do not mind the water, or a toy horse, or a rubber pig. Then,
-if the current is right, it will float way across the mill pond, and
-the toys can land on the other side.
-
-Corks make a fine raft, too, and such a light one! A cork raft will
-almost never sink. You must collect corks for quite a while before you
-have enough for the raft. They will need to be of just the same width
-and length. Glue five or six corks together by their ends to form a
-little cork log. Make a number of these logs, and then fasten them
-together as you fastened the corn-cob raft. Another way of making the
-cork raft is to run the corks on a bit of fine wire and the logs may
-all be wired together in the same way.
-
-A very large, flat cork, such as mother puts in her pickle jars, will
-make a fine little sail boat. All that it needs is a toothpick mast and
-a white cambric or paper sail glued on.
-
-A paper row boat is very easy to make. Choose an oblong of heavy paper
-that will not soak with the water quickly. Fold a cocked soldier’s hat.
-Every boy knows how to do that. Hold the cocked hat in the middle of
-each side and pull it out into a square. Bend back the two open sides
-to form another cocked hat, but smaller than the first one. Pull this
-out, also, into a square. Then, if you pull hard on the two closed
-corners, the paper will open into a fine little row boat. You can fold
-so many of these paper boats that a new one may be launched as fast as
-the old one sinks.
-
-A boy who is clever with his jack-knife will be able to make a stout
-little sail boat from a piece of an old egg crate, or the side of a
-cigar box. The wood must be close grained and light--that is the first
-essential. Cut the boat, pointed at one end, and rub it smooth with a
-piece of sandpaper. Glue a meat skewer to the center for the mast, and
-hoist a little sail. A hole may be bored in the end of the sail boat,
-and a long string tied in will allow you to run along the edge of the
-brook and keep this little craft from sailing away.
-
-There are other boats which will want to join this toyland fleet.
-Peanut shells may have very tiny paper sails pinned to the ends. A race
-between two rival peanut boats will be great fun.
-
-A cigar box boat may have squares cut from the sides with a knife for
-oar locks; with meat skewer oars, it will make a very creditable scow,
-flat-bottomed, and perfectly safe for any doll to go clamming in.
-
-Clam shells may have paper sails fastened on with glue, and any kind of
-flat shell loves to go sailing away by itself on the water.
-
-A strong square of birch bark may be folded and cut rounding at the
-ends to resemble a canoe. The ends are then sewed with a needle
-threaded with strands of sweet grass or stout cotton, making a tiny
-Indian craft. If you wish the canoe to be perfectly water tight, it
-can be lined with waxed paper.
-
-There will be fun for all summer long for the boy who makes and sails
-his own fleet of toy boats.
-
-[Illustration: WHITTLED TOY SAIL BOAT]
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE A PLAY TENT
-
-
-Having a tent out in the garden or on the lawn during the summer
-vacation makes each long, happy day twice as long, and just twice as
-happy. A boy can play that he is an Indian, or a first settler, or a
-cave dweller, or even an old story book king if he has even the crudest
-kind of a roof over his head and some sort of a play shelter beneath
-which he can live and play, and dream all manner of delightful things.
-
-Of course the nicest tent of all is one from a real tent factory made
-of canvas and having staples and pegs to fasten it to the ground, but
-such a tent costs ever so much money, and not every mother and father
-can afford to buy it. One family of children went without fireworks on
-Fourth of July that they might save the money which they would have,
-otherwise, burned up and with it they bought themselves a tent which
-lasted much longer than the smoke and noise of the fireworks would have.
-
-There is, though, a very fine tent indeed, and one that will give a
-group of boys quite as much pleasure as any manufactured one. This
-is the home-made tent. It is the tent that seems to really belong to
-you because it is a sort of a makeshift and you make it with your own
-hands. There are ever so many ways of making your own tent, all of them
-simple and quite easy for one to follow.
-
-One very strong and serviceable tent has a foundation of straight,
-young birch trees or saplings cut in the early spring and used for
-tent poles. Holes should be dug, and the poles set in the ground a
-quarter their length that no summer wind storm can uproot them. Around
-each pole, the earth is then pounded down, and the tops of the poles,
-six or eight in number, should be lashed together with cord. A couple
-of old army blankets may be stitched together to make a covering for
-this tent. A hole is cut in the center and the covering is slipped
-over the supports and tied to the base of each pole. There will be
-enough extra blanket to make a flap in the front of the tent to act as
-a door. If there is a summer shower when the children are playing in
-this blanket tent they may pull the flap tight shut, and just snuggle
-inside, listening to the raindrops that do not soak through the blanket
-covering one bit.
-
-A second home-made tent has a foundation of bean poles or clothes poles
-for supports. These are sunk in the ground and fastened together at
-the top as were the saplings used for the blanket tent. The covering,
-however, is of brown denim. Twelve yards will make a very good-sized
-tent. The lengths are cut to fit the poles used as tent supports; they
-are pointed at the top, and stitched together. Tape sewed at the top,
-center, and base of each seam, on the inside, may be tied around the
-poles and fasten the covering to the props. This tent may be decorated
-in such a way that it will make a real patch of color on the lawn or
-in the back yard, and will have the appearance of an Indian’s wigwam.
-Red and green, or yellow denim is used for the decorations. Small
-conventionalized trees, moons, stars, leaves, or any preferred designs
-are cut from the colored cloth and stitched to the brown covering.
-Another way of decorating the denim tent is to paint pictures on it
-with stencil colors, using stencil patterns of Indians, animals, or
-flowers. These colors are “fast” and the rain will not wash them off as
-is apt to happen in the case of designs applied with colored cloth.
-
-A flower tent is a new sort of playhouse and is quite delightful in
-sunshiny weather. When it rains you can watch your tent grow from the
-house windows. It will be wise to select a fence corner, where a row
-of castor beans will sprout in a night almost to help form the back of
-the tent. Between these castor plants, there may be some quick-growing
-vine planted; mock orange, morning glory, or moon flower. As the seeds
-sprout and the vines begin to grow, they should be twined upon strings
-which extend up the fence and across the top between the two sides of
-the fence, forming the tent roof. Before summer is over, this roof
-will be a thick one as the vines increase their leaves and the leaves
-themselves grow larger and more lavish of their shade. After a while
-they will hang over the front of the tent helping to form a third side,
-and when the tent bursts into blossom the children who live inside it
-will feel almost as if they were in fairyland.
-
-These tents all take time to make, but there are other home-made tents
-that can spring up in a day in the garden. A very little boy can set up
-grandfather’s big green umbrella for a tent and have a pleasant time
-sitting under it. The handle can be buried a little way in the ground
-and there will be plenty of room beneath its delightful green shade for
-a boy and a picture book, or a little girl and her doll. To make this
-umbrella tent still more snug and sheltering, grandmother’s shawl can
-be draped around it, or a rug may be pinned to the edges to form the
-back and walls.
-
-Two boys who live next door to each other and are the friendliest of
-neighbors can make a tent that they can share. The village carpenter
-will furnish four stout pine posts a little taller than the fence
-between the boys’ homes is high. Two of these posts are set up on one
-side of the fence about eight feet from the fence itself, and two on
-the other side in just the same position. The ticking cover of an old
-feather bed may be cut down to the right size, and nailed to the posts
-for a roof. A couple of old sails may be cut into straight curtains
-for the sides of the tent, with strips of lath in the hem so that they
-can be rolled up in pleasant weather. The tent is very cozy when it is
-finished, and before the summer is over nearly every boy in town will
-have been up to visit these boys in their little two-room tent.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN TOPS
-
-
-Some toys don’t know how to play. They just stand still and wait for
-a child to carry them around the garden or drag them by their strings
-across the nursery floor. They have no proper play spirit, these lazy
-toys, but that isn’t the case with a top. Given a fair chance, just a
-fine, long string and a smooth sidewalk--why, a top will play with a
-child all day long. It will twirl and whirl, never stopping to rest for
-long, and singing all the time its quaint little humming song to keep
-tune and time with its spinning.
-
-You can buy a top for a penny at the toy shop, but it is just a plain,
-ordinary sort of wooden top exactly like all the other tops. How
-would you like to make your own tops? It will be the easiest task in
-the world to do this, and a whole lot of fun, too. The materials for
-home-made tops grow out of doors and are lying close at hand at home,
-in the wood-shed, or in the cellar.
-
-Sharpen your jack-knife, and you may start out top hunting, at once.
-
-A beet makes a queer little top that will spin gayly for a day, and
-if it breaks on the sidewalk or curbing, why you may pull up another
-top from the beet patch in the garden. The picture shows you a beet
-top that looks like a very own cousin to a wooden top because it is
-just the same shape, and the same size. There should be a pointed peg
-whittled from a scrap of soft kindling wood and stuck in the pointed
-end of the beet. The beet top is then wound with a string that has a
-small button mold or a little china button on the end and when you
-throw it as you do an ordinary wooden peg top, it will spin finely.
-A small turnip will make a top, too, if it has a whittled peg, and a
-little radish makes a fine top, save that it is too small to be wound
-up and should have a bit of toothpick stuck in opposite the peg to
-twirl it by.
-
-[Illustration: WHITTLED CLOWN TOP]
-
-The woods as well as the garden are full of tops. Let us go out top
-gathering under the nut trees some fine, frosty morning, taking the
-heroic little jack-knife, too, to help finish the tops. Fat acorns
-make splendid tops. A bit of twig should be whittled down to the right
-size and stuck in the flat end of the acorn by which to spin it. Every
-acorn has a fine point upon which to spin and a half dozen of these gay
-little acorn tops may be set spinning at once by a group of children
-in a top contest to see which will keep twirling longest. Horse
-chestnuts may be used for tops, too, if a child selects the very round,
-flat kind of nut. Horse chestnuts gathered when they first fall from
-the tree are soft and easily bored with an awl or darning needle, or
-the smallest blade of a jack-knife. A hole should be made exactly in
-the center of the nut and a perfectly straight piece of twig inserted,
-pointed at one end and extending a half inch above the horse chestnut
-at the top to hold it by. Another way to make a horse chestnut top is
-to cut the nut in half, crosswise, and insert halves of toothpicks in
-each section, making two tops instead of one.
-
-When the shut-in days come in the winter and it is too late to pick
-your tops out in the garden or gather them in the woods, it will be
-ever so much fun to see how many tops you can make of the materials
-you are able to find at home. The wood that is used in a cigar box is
-soft and easily whittled, and just one box will furnish material for
-countless tops. The queer little circus clown in the picture spins
-on the tips of his toes if a top string is wound about the long peg
-protruding from the top of his head. He is not one bit difficult to
-make. The outline of a clown in a picture book is drawn on a sheet of
-tracing paper with a soft pencil and then transferred to a piece of
-the soft wood. If a boy has a jig saw it will be very easy to cut the
-little outlined clown in a jiffy, but it can be done in almost as short
-a time with a sharp jack-knife. When the clown is cut, his features are
-drawn in with charcoal or a soft pencil. If you spin him hard enough,
-he will rise right up off the ground once in a while and then settle
-down again and go on spinning. If a child has a book of brownies he can
-make a brownie top in the same way that the clown top was made. The
-brownie will spin on the tips of his little pointed toes.
-
-The top in the picture that has a series of circles of different sizes
-will be ever so easy to make. The circles, each a half inch smaller
-than the one which is to be above it, are drawn on soft wood, and are
-then cut out with a jack-knife. A hole is cut in the center of each
-circle and they are fitted on a piece of wooden meat skewer, the point
-of the meat skewer forming the spinning end of the top. With a box of
-water color paints the circular disks of the tops are then painted in
-gay contrasting colors and the effect will be charming when the little
-top begins to spin.
-
-[Illustration: (A) BEET TOP. (B) TOP MADE OF GRADUATED DISKS. (C)
-BUTTON MOLD TOP.]
-
-Button molds make tops. The big wooden molds that the tailor uses
-for coats are best to make into tops. The hole in the center must be
-enlarged to admit of a sharpened end of a meat skewer being inserted.
-These button mold tops may be painted, too, and a splendid game can be
-played with them on the nursery table. Two stakes may be set up--the
-stakes from a parlor croquet set will do nicely--at the opposite ends
-of the table. The boys playing the game then choose colors and spin
-their button mold tops, whipping them with tiny whips made of meat
-skewers and colored twine, and trying to see whose top will make the
-distance between stakes first at the one spinning.
-
-
-
-
-THE FARM THE SCISSORS BUILT
-
-
-It will be almost as fine as a real farm when it is finished and ever
-so much easier to make, because one will not need any boards, or tools,
-or huge nails to use in putting it together.
-
-What do you suppose the barn is made of? Why, just a big piece of heavy
-wrapping paper that some one has brought to the house, and then has
-dropped on the hall table to be thrown away because it does not seem to
-be of any use now its wrapping days are over.
-
-[Illustration: Folding for Barn.]
-
-First, one should cut the heavy wrapping paper into a large square.
-Then fold the square into sixteen small squares like the folding
-indicated in the diagram. Some of the lines in the diagram are dotted.
-Those show how the square is folded to make the little squares. Some
-of the lines are solid, heavy lines. Those are the lines to be cut.
-Make these cuts very carefully with scissors. There will be three cuts,
-each one square long and one square apart on two opposite sides of
-the paper. The two middle squares which are marked “a” in the diagram
-should be superimposed. That is a very, very long word, is it not? It
-means something very simple, though. These two squares are laid, one on
-top of the other, and are glued into place. Next, the squares marked
-“b” are brought together and their edges are glued. Then--one end of
-the wrapping paper barn is finished. Glue the squares at the other
-end of the barn in the same way, and cut a wide barn door. The door is
-made by cutting on a vertical crease on one side of the house, making
-two other cuts at right angles with the first one, and folding back the
-two sides of the door at the opening. If you want a window where you
-can toss hay up into the barn loft, it may be cut just above the door.
-A boy who has seen the inside of a real barn will be able to cut some
-strips of the heavy paper, and paste them together, fastening them to
-the back wall of the barn to show where the cow and the horse stalls
-are.
-
-Some more strips of paper may be pasted together to form a barnyard
-fence. The barn may stand on the nursery table with the fence all
-around it, or an old suit box of mother’s will make a very fine
-barnyard indeed. The sides of the box should be ruled with a pencil
-to look like the bars in a real barnyard fence. Then you can cut the
-bars with a jack-knife, or some sharp pointed scissors. When you have
-finished the suit-box barnyard, the barn may stand in one corner of it.
-
-Now you are ready to cut some animals to live in the barn.
-
-The pictures in your animal picture books will make splendid patterns
-for the barnyard animals. Trace the animals with some tissue paper
-and then transfer these patterns to some stiff paper. When you have
-cut carefully on the traced outline, you may paste the animal’s feet
-to cardboard standards to make them stand up. There may be cows, and
-horses, and a donkey, and a whole flock of barnyard fowls. Then you may
-color the barn creatures with your water color paints or with colored
-pencils.
-
-[Illustration: Finished Barn.]
-
-You can make a fine, large farm wagon, also, to stand beside the barn.
-To make the wagon, you should fold a small square of paper as you
-folded the large one for the barn. Instead of using the whole square,
-though, as you did for the barn, you must cut off a strip of four
-squares. Then make the short cuts as you did for the barn in the
-ends of the oblong piece of paper. Lay the three square laps which you
-have made by the cutting together, and paste them--one on top of the
-other. Cut out some wheels and fasten them to the cart. Glue on some
-cardboard or sticks for shafts, and the farm wagon is done.
-
-[Illustration: CART, BARN AND BARROW, MADE OF CARDBOARD BOXES]
-
-If you want a wheelbarrow in the barnyard, you may cut one of mother’s
-old spool boxes in half. The edges where you made the cut should be
-curved. A wheel made of an empty spool, or a cardboard disk may be
-fastened to one end with a pin, and some cardboard legs may be glued to
-the wheelbarrow.
-
-When the paper farm is complete, you must harness the donkey to the
-wagon, and set him to work. Cut out some of the gay pictures of fruit
-and vegetables that fill the seed catalogues, and load the wagon.
-
-Fill the wheelbarrow, too. Cut out some paper overall boys to visit the
-farm and spend the summer. There is no end to the plays that the paper
-farm will suggest to you.
-
-
-
-
-MORE BOX PLAYS
-
-
-One of father’s empty note paper boxes, a starch box, a box that held
-spools of thread once--one, or all of these will furnish delightful
-play material for an afternoon in the house. A box has not finished its
-usefulness when its contents are gone. It is strong and tough often
-still, and ready for all kinds of fun.
-
-Some cardboard boxes, large and small, will make the toy farm
-establishment shown in the picture. A box that once was filled with
-writing paper serves for the barn. The box stands on one side, leaving
-the entire front open that toy animals can be put in and taken out with
-greater ease than if there were a door. The long edge of the box cover
-is cut to fit the box, inserted and glued in place to form the front
-of the stalls which hold the toy animals. Shorter lengths of the cover
-edge are fitted in between the back of the box and this front partition
-to separate the stalls and are also glued in place. When these are in,
-a door can be cut. The stalls must be furnished with little grain
-boxes for the play horses to eat from; and this is the way to make them.
-
-Measure with a school ruler and cut out a four-inch square of heavy
-wrapping paper. Lay the paper on a table in front of you and fold,
-first, the front edge up to the back, and then the front and back edges
-down to meet the center fold. Now turn the paper around, repeating the
-folding until there are sixteen squares. Cut off a row of four squares,
-leaving an oblong piece of paper that contains twelve squares. Make two
-cuts in the opposite narrow ends of the paper, one square long and one
-square apart. Fold up these squares and paste them, one on top of the
-other, forming a little oblong box. One of these boxes pasted to the
-back of each stall looks just like a grain trough, and may be filled
-with oats, if a country boy is making the farm, for the little horse to
-eat.
-
-Some of the wrapping paper that remains after the grain boxes are
-finished makes the roof of the barn. Cut a strip as wide as the barn is
-deep and once and a half as long. Fold it once through the center and,
-at the ends, fold down flaps by means of which the roof can be glued to
-the top of the box forming a hay loft. When spring comes you can cut
-grass blades with a pair of gardener’s shears, dry them in the sun,
-and fill the loft of this little box barn with real, play hay.
-
-[Illustration: CIRCUS PARADE (THE CAGE IS MADE OF A SHOE BOX)]
-
-A box in which the apothecary packs his powders makes the little farm
-cart in the picture, and another one the wheelbarrow. No cutting is
-necessary for the cart, but some of the cardboard left in the cover
-of the note paper box can be used for wheels. A fifty-cent bit is
-the right size for the wheels. Lay one on the cardboard, and draw
-carefully around it with a pencil, cutting four of these wheels with
-a pair of sharp scissors. Brass paper fasteners will make strong hubs
-for the little wheels. Pierce a hole through both wheel and box before
-inserting the fastener, though, to help the wheel to turn. A strip of
-the box cover glued to the front of the cart serves for the handle.
-
-The wheelbarrow is just a little more difficult to make than these
-other toys, but not too great a task for a child with clever fingers.
-A section that is about one third of the entire length is measured and
-cut off the second small box, and thrown away. It is the remaining
-two-thirds of the box that is to make the wheelbarrow. The front, open
-edges of the box are now curved like the sides of a real wheelbarrow.
-Two narrow strips of the cover, or two small sticks are glued to
-the front of the wheelbarrow for handles, and two shorter lengths of
-cardboard or two very tiny sticks form the legs. Another cardboard
-circle cut the same size as those used for the cart wheels is inserted
-by means of a knife cut in the back of the barrow and helps it to
-trundle along.
-
-The box-built cart and wheelbarrow will be found most useful in the
-spring. They can be loaded with little green apples, tiny brown pebbles
-that look like toy potatoes, corn kernels, or peas. They will be strong
-enough to last a whole season and help to carry fodder to the horse who
-lives in the box barn.
-
-There is still more box fun. Ask mother for an empty cardboard starch
-box, the strong kind covered with blue paper, and see what a fine
-little toy garage it will make. Almost every child has a toy automobile
-given him for Christmas, but it is so apt to go steering away with its
-own gasoline, and losing itself somewhere in the house if a child has
-no special place in which to keep it.
-
-Take the cover of the box and turn the box itself bottom side up. On
-one side, right in the center, draw a big square. The lower part of
-the square should come on the very outside edge of the box because
-this square is to be the garage door. The door should be made in two
-parts, so as to open very wide and admit the automobile when it comes
-steaming along in a great hurry. To make this double door, draw a
-perpendicular line that divides the square into two parts. Then, with a
-pair of sharp scissors cut right up this line to the top of the square.
-Next, cut along the top line to the right and left of the middle line.
-Folding back the two halves that have just been cut, out toward the
-outside of the box, makes two little doors and opens the front of the
-garage. Square windows can be cut in the sides of the box, as many as
-one wishes.
-
-A number of empty thread boxes will make a splendid train of cars,
-strong enough to drag a whole family of china dolls or a load of live
-stock up and down the piazza or along the garden path. Cardboard
-circles cut from the covers of the thread boxes and of the same size
-as those used for the wheels of the toy cart make the car wheels. They
-are fastened on, either in similar fashion to the cart wheels by means
-of paper fasteners, or a bone collar button may be pushed through
-cart and wheel, helping the wheels to revolve more easily. One of the
-thread boxes has the cover glued on, and to the top is glued also one
-large wooden spool for the engine’s smoke stack, and a block for the
-engineer’s cab. These little box cars are coupled together by short
-lengths of braided cord. Holes are punched in the ends of the cars with
-an awl and the cord is pushed through and knotted at each end to hold
-it in place. A long piece of cord is fastened to the engine and is used
-to draw the cars by.
-
-There is no end to the entertainment and fun to be had from a pile of
-empty boxes. Just get to work at a few of them your next free afternoon
-and find out how much they are able to help you in your play.
-
-[Illustration: (A) THE ARK (B) CARDBOARD ANIMALS WHO LIVE IN THE ARK]
-
-
-
-
-A RECIPE FOR A NOAH’S ARK
-
-
-It isn’t a very difficult recipe to follow. All the stirring you need
-to do will be when you mix up some flour and a little water to make the
-paste. That is the first ingredient. Next in the recipe comes a pair
-of sharp scissors and a pencil. After that you must find some sheets
-of heavy paper, and the old animal picture books that you thought you
-could not enjoy any longer because the leaves were coming apart and the
-pictures were torn. Spread out all these things on the nursery table,
-and you will be ready to begin the Noah’s Ark.
-
-The Ark itself is to be a big, strong envelope for holding all the wild
-animals, and this is how you must make it. One of the sheets of heavy
-paper should be folded in half. The folded edge forms the bottom of the
-envelope. Beginning with this folded edge, the outline of the Ark is
-drawn on the paper with your pencil. It is a simple outline to draw--a
-big boat with curved ends, and a sort of house resting on the top.
-Then, holding the folded edge tightly so that the paper will not slip,
-cut out the Ark. The ends of the Ark should be bound or glued, but the
-top is left open that the animals may be put in.
-
-Windows and a door are cut in the Ark for the animals will want to look
-out as they sail away on their wonderful voyage, and the Ark may be
-painted bright red with green trimmings.
-
-Next come the animals.
-
-The pictures of the animals may be mounted on one of the remaining
-sheets of heavy paper, so they will be stiff enough to stand up alone.
-That is one way of making enough animals to fill the Ark, but there is
-another way that will take a little longer, but will prove ever so much
-more fun.
-
-The loose pictures from the book of animals should be fastened to the
-table with thumb tacks, or tacked to a drawing board. A square of white
-tissue paper is then laid over each, and the outline of the animal’s
-body is traced with a soft pencil. When the tracing is finished, the
-tissue paper is carefully lifted off and laid with the plain side up
-on some stiff white cardboard. The outline is then retraced with the
-same soft pencil leaving a pattern of the animal on the cardboard. The
-animal is then cut out, and painted with the nursery water colors.
-
-[Illustration: GOING ABOARD THE ARK]
-
-You will need to be very clever, indeed, to paint the animals so
-that they will look as if they were just fresh from the jungle. There
-must be a tawny lion colored with brown that has a great deal of yellow
-ocher mixed with it. The panther must be orange with big yellow spots,
-and large green eyes. The tiger’s eyes must have yellow mixed with the
-green paint and his coat is yellow with orange stripes. The bear is
-brown and the kangaroo is tan.
-
-There should be two of each kind of animal. Now how shall you make
-them stand up and walk like real, live animals? Some very tiny bits of
-wood may be glued to their feet. That is one way of making the animals
-stand. Another way is to make a narrow ring of the same cardboard from
-which the animals were cut. The animals’ feet are then glued to this
-ring, and they will really stand.
-
-A boy will be able to make more animals than he can count,--leopards,
-monkeys, zebras, elephants, as many as he can find patterns for in his
-toy picture books. And it will prove such fun to draw them and paint
-them that he will be kept busy for many rainy afternoons.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN UNIFORM
-
-
-Every boy needs to be a soldier, once in a while. There are so many
-brave deeds to be done and so many cowardly things to fight, and so
-much dark to walk through courageously, and so many strange dogs and
-cats, and shy little girls to protect with all the gallantry of those
-old, old knights who lived in the story-book days. A soldier boy is
-never late for school, and he never, never forgets to do an errand. He
-goes to bed alone every evening at eight, even if the stairway is dark,
-and there is no light in the upstairs hall to chase away the ghosts.
-He never lies, and he is always cheerful. He knows that being brave
-and gallant and true is just as much a part of a soldier’s duty as
-marching, and drumming, and saluting Old Glory.
-
-It isn’t easy to be a soldier though in a plain, everyday suit of
-clothes, made of homespun perhaps, and patched, and dingy brown in
-color. A real soldier suit cut and fitted the right size for a boy
-costs more money than there is in the boy’s tin bank. What is the boy
-going to do if he wants more than anything else to be a soldier and he
-hasn’t enough money to buy himself a suit?
-
-Any boy will be able to make the soldier trappings shown in the
-picture, and when he puts on the cap, and the shield, pins the epaulets
-to his shoulders and sticks the play sword in his belt, he will be
-ready for the life of a little soldier. He can work or play cheerfully,
-and when it comes Saturday, or Washington’s Birthday, he will be the
-envy of all the other boys as he leads them in a fine parade, dressed
-in his gay, home-made soldier things.
-
-Suppose we make the soldier’s cap first. The diagram marked Fig. 1, 2,
-3, and 4, shows just how to do the construction. A bright red cap will
-be fine for the soldier, or a blue one just the color of the blue field
-in the flag. There is a kind of tough, half-heavy paper called book
-cover paper. One can order it from a stationer’s shop or a printing
-factory at a cent or two a sheet. Some sheets of this will make the
-boy’s own cap and enough for all the other soldiers in the regiment.
-A piece of paper that measures fourteen by twenty inches is the
-foundation for the soldier cap. Fold the two narrower edges together
-until they touch, and crease the paper through the center as shown in
-Fig. 1. Then with the paper still folded, make a second fold as shown
-by the line in Fig. 2. This line forms a guide line for the next two
-folds which make the point of the cap. Lay the papers, open, as in Fig.
-1, on a table with the folded edge at the back; fold each half of the
-back edge down along the line made by the last folding. Then fold up
-and crease the lower open edges forming the rim of the cap. The rim
-should be glued down to make the cap firm and strong. A feather can be
-made by fringing strips of red or blue crépe paper and twisting them
-around a narrow strip of cardboard which is glued inside the rim of
-the cap. A turkey’s feather will do just as well, or a bunch of hen’s
-feathers, or a cockade made of red, white, and blue ribbons to decorate
-the cap.
-
-A boy can find a splendid shield pattern in the back of the dictionary.
-Copy it, and enlarge it until it is the right size to cover a boy’s
-shirt bosom. Then draw it on heavy white cardboard, and cut it out. A
-good size for the shield will be eight by ten inches. When it is cut it
-can be decorated with stars and stripes with colored pencils or paints
-as shown in the picture. The stripes are drawn carefully with a ruler
-and filled in with color; one red and one white. The blue ground above
-the stripes is dotted with stars cut from gilt paper and pasted on.
-Two holes are punched in the sides of the shield, and a bit of cord is
-strung in by means of which the shield may be hung around a boy’s neck.
-It will make his heart beat faster and give him a whole lot of courage
-every time he looks down at its brave stars and stripes.
-
-Now for the sword which looks like a formidable weapon in the picture,
-but is really not dangerous at all. Every boy knows how to roll a
-narrow piece of paper, and make a lamp lighter. The sword that is
-part of this home-made soldier suit is made in just the same way. Cut
-some narrow strips of the book cover paper and join them with glue
-until there is a long strip. Roll this strip of paper tightly, in lamp
-lighter fashion, until it is fifteen inches long. Then press it flat
-between heavy weights. Roll a second strip of paper for a length of six
-inches and glue it to the broad end of the sword as a handle. These
-swords are so delightfully easy to make that a boy will want to roll a
-dozen after he has made his first one, and he can arm himself with as
-many paper poniards as an Indian chief has arrows in his quiver.
-
-[Illustration: (A) PATTERN FOR SOLDIER’S CAP (B) THE FINISHED UNIFORM:
-CAP, SHIELD, SWORD AND EPAULETS]
-
-The soldier’s epaulets are just five by two inch strips of the book
-cover paper cut to fit a boy’s shoulders and decorated with fringed
-red and blue tissue paper. They can be pinned to the soldier’s coat
-shoulders with safety pins and will make an ordinary play suit quite as
-military in appearance as any uniform.
-
-When the boy soldier is dressed in this home-made uniform, which will
-be even more effective than any which is for sale in a toy shop, he
-will be ready for any adventure in addition to the brave prowess of
-everyday life. Perhaps he and the other boys will want to take one of
-mother’s old blankets and two or three clothes poles for a tent, and
-tramp as far as the woods for a day of real scouting. Every soldier
-has a knapsack for carrying provisions and this play soldier will need
-one, too. A large, flat box makes a fine knapsack. Inside can be packed
-a bundle of sandwiches, two or three apples, a doughnut or two, and a
-piece of pie or a big slice of pound cake. When the box is packed, tie
-it securely with a length of cord, and have one end of the cord for a
-strap by means of which the knapsack is hung across the soldier’s back.
-Roll a square of old blanket and tie to the top of the box just as a
-real soldier fastens his blanket to his knapsack, and the make-believe
-soldier in cap, epaulets, and shield can draw his sword and start off
-in search of any adventure.
-
-
-
-
-JOINTED TOY ANIMALS. HOW TO MAKE THEM
-
-
-They will really do “stunts,” these toys in the picture. The
-grasshopper will hop if you stand him up on a table and give him a
-chance. The turtle will crawl along much faster than an ordinary, live
-turtle. The crocodile will follow you so fast that you will surely be
-eaten by him unless you hurry. What fun it is going to be to play with
-these live toys, but first a child must make them, and as many more as
-he likes.
-
-Clear a low table on which to work and find some heavy cardboard or
-thick water color paper from which to construct the animals. Bring
-also, a pair of strong scissors, a sheet of tracing paper, a soft lead
-pencil and the box of water color paints you found in your stocking
-last Christmas. These are all the tools and material necessary for
-making a barnful of animals. Ask mother for some porcelain collar
-buttons to fasten the animals’ legs to the bodies. The laundry man
-brings so many of these useless studs every week and a crop of them
-will be fine for jointing the animals. If one cannot find enough
-collar buttons, a box of tiny brass paper fasteners will serve very
-well instead.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Every boy knows how to draw a few animals, at least free hand. If he is
-clever enough to be able to do this just by watching the horses out in
-the street, or the tiger in the Zoo, or the kitten who sits in front
-of the nursery fire, washing her face, so much the better. He will
-not need any patterns. The child who finds difficulty in sketching an
-animal free hand will have to trace his patterns from a book, or a toy
-animal. Often one of the nursery toy animals may be laid flat on the
-cardboard and its outline drawn and cut. Noah’s Ark animals, if they
-are large, make excellent patterns for a child to copy. If one has no
-toys of the right size, the tracing paper may be laid over the picture
-of an animal in a farm picture book, or a book that tells about the
-jungle, or a book on Natural History. When the outline of the animal
-has been neatly traced on the tracing cloth, it should be transferred
-to the cardboard from which the animal is to be made. When a child has
-obtained a clear outline in this way, he may next proceed to make the
-animals alive.
-
-First, he must decide just the location of the animal’s joints. Where
-are the tiger’s paws fastened to his legs? Where are the grasshopper’s
-knees? Where, hidden underneath his shell are the turtle’s funny little
-flat feet attached to his body? Then, using the pattern which has
-just been made, a new pattern of the creature’s body is made, then a
-pattern of a leg, a tail, an ear, and these sections are all cut from
-the cardboard, separately, with scissors or the sharp jack-knife. In
-cutting out legs and paws, they should be made always a little longer
-than the original pattern to allow for the joint by which they are
-fastened to the body. As soon as all the parts of an animal have
-been cut from the cardboard, they should be laid in place and holes
-punched with a coarse needle or an awl at the joints. If the animal is
-a huge one, the collar buttons may be slipped in these holes to hold
-the sections together. In the case of the toy creatures shown in the
-picture, paper fasteners were used. When these joints have been made
-the toys will stand or sit, cock their ears or wag their tails, leap or
-run--in fact they will do anything a boy wishes.
-
-The paints come next. It will be great fun to make the toy animals just
-the right color. A tiger may be such a gorgeous yellow with bright
-green eyes and black stripes. The grasshopper may be either green or a
-warm brown, and the turtle’s house which he must always carry around on
-his back should be painted gray.
-
-These jointed animals may be persuaded to act out the children’s
-favorite stories and will furnish a new kind of fun for rainy
-afternoons in the house.
-
-[Illustration: JOINTED CARDBOARD ANIMALS]
-
-Little Brer Rabbit can be easily made of white cardboard from the
-pictures of Peter Rabbit or the rabbit pictures on an Easter card. Then
-Brer Rabbit and Old Man Terrapin may act out on the nursery table the
-famous race that Uncle Remus has told us about. A shoe box may be
-used for a miniature stage if it is placed on its side on a table, some
-scenery is painted in at the back and a little cloth curtain hung at
-the front. Through a hole in one end the jointed animals may be put in
-and they will perform most acceptably for an audience of dolls.
-
-Two children playing together, or two groups of children can each make
-a set of jointed animals and then pose them to illustrate a favorite
-story, the other child or group guessing the story illustrated.
-
-Many other plays will suggest themselves when one has a set of animals
-which are really alive and which a child has made, all himself.
-
-
-
-
-YOUR OWN CIRCUS
-
-
-It is going to be a circus small enough to fit in any house. In fact,
-it will be possible to put it within the boundaries of an old table.
-Because you can’t always have an outdoor show is just the reason that
-you are going to plan this fine, diminutive one in the house. It may
-take several days to get it ready, but once your indoor circus is
-finished, you will find it almost if not quite as interesting as a real
-one.
-
-First, find an old table somewhere to be used as a circus ground. A
-pine table will serve nicely, and if you can find some old green muslin
-with which to cover it, you will discover that it looks exactly like
-the grass in the field where the real circus is held. Tack the muslin
-to the under side of the table top so that it will not wrinkle and
-interfere with the circus parade. Now you are ready for the rope fence
-which always encloses a circus ground.
-
-In the four corners of the table bore, with a gimlet, through the
-canvas, some holes that are just the right size to hold dowel sticks,
-five inches long. You can buy these dowel sticks of a carpenter in
-foot lengths at a few cents each. Glue the posts in the holes which you
-have bored in the table and also bore extra holes for two more about a
-foot apart in the front of the table. These last little posts are for
-the gate to your circus ground. When the glue has set and the posts
-are perfectly dry, tie cord to one, near the top, and then stretch it
-to another, knotting it, until you have finished the rope fence that
-encloses the circus ground. If you like you can have two or three rows
-of cord, and you can print a little circus sign to pin to the gate. It
-may read:
-
-  THE GREAT AND ONLY ANIMAL SHOW
-
-  Clowns, Wild Beasts, and the Biggest Elephant
-  in the World.
-
-  Performances Every Afternoon and Evening.
-
-  Admission, Adults, two pins, Children, alone,
-  one pin.
-
-  COME ONE. COME ALL!
-
-All around the edges of the bill you can draw pictures of wild animals
-with your colored pencils.
-
-The circus ground will look very much pleasanter if you have a few
-trees standing about on the edges, and these trees will be useful,
-also, to tie some of your wild beasts to.
-
-Meat skewers will do nicely for the tree trunks if you fringe ever so
-many narrow, doubled strips of green tissue paper, and wind them with
-it, fastening the fringes to the meat skewer with mucilage. The green
-paper flutters in the air quite like real foliage in the breeze on
-circus day, and the little trees will stand up nicely if you stick the
-end of each skewer inside an empty spool, glueing it there so that it
-will stay in place.
-
-Did you think that you were never coming to the tent for your circus?
-Well, here it is, and the picture shows you just how to construct it.
-You will need to enlarge the diagram several times the size which you
-see in the picture, but that is easily accomplished by means of your
-ruler and lead pencil. Use some sort of tough, firm paper for the tent.
-Water color paper will be splendid because you can get out your paint
-box and paint pictures of wild men and palm trees and animals on the
-sides. If you have no water color paper, use brown bristol board. The
-latter makes a fine stiff tent. Cut out the top and sides as carefully
-as you can, bend them, and glue or paste them together. Then stand the
-tent up in the center of your circus ground.
-
-[Illustration: Pattern for Circus Tent.]
-
-The animals, next.
-
-There are patterns for them, too, which you will see in the picture and
-which are so simple as to be very easily enlarged. The animals can be
-made of the same kind of paper which you used for the tent, and then
-painted, the elephant gray, the camel a soft brown and the deer a dull
-reddish color, or you can cut them out of wood. This is perhaps the
-better way. Use thin pieces of very soft, white wood. An excellent wood
-is holly or soft pine, in the thin sheets which are used for jig saw
-work, and for making picture puzzles. Draw the pattern of the animal
-which you wish to make first very carefully on your piece of wood. Give
-your best jack-knife two or three turns on a grindstone so that it will
-be nice and sharp, and then go to work cutting the animal, not your
-fingers. Make as many animals as you can, and glue their feet to tiny
-blocks of kindling wood so that they will stand. Touch them up a little
-with paint, too, to make them look wilder.
-
-If you want cages for your animals use empty spool boxes, covers and
-all. Cut bars in the cover of each box with your jack-knife, stand the
-animal inside and put the cover back on. The box rests on cardboard
-wheels which are glued to the long, narrow side of the box.
-
-A clever boy will be able to invent the acts for the circus. One can
-rig up trapezes and flying swings and tight rope appliances very easily
-by using strings and spools. One can paint flags of all nations or cut
-them from colored tissue paper to float from the roof of the tent, and
-this little home-made circus will be so attractive that all the other
-boys will want to make similar ones just as soon as they see it.
-
-
-
-
-BEAD WORK FOR BOYS
-
-
-There is not a boy but has gazed at the alluring Indian suits in the
-toy shop windows, wishing that he were able to buy one. It is so much
-easier to give a proper war whoop, and scare a few of the fellows,
-and execute a wild war dance, or even sit by a camp fire in the woods
-telling stories, if only he is dressed like a real, live Indian.
-
-Why not make one’s own Indian suit?
-
-It is perfectly possible for a boy to make himself a fine Indian shirt,
-fringed, and decorated with beads; a pair of beaded moccasins and a
-bead belt in which may be thrust a scalping knife, a bow and arrow and
-a few other implements of war. He may hang all his scalps to the belt,
-too.
-
-The only materials needed for the suit will be three or four large
-chamois skins--or two yards of brown denim if the chamois seems
-too expensive for the young Indian’s pocketbook--some red and blue
-porcelain beads which may be bought in strings at any dry goods store
-for a few cents a string, a spool of heavy cotton thread, and a little
-patience. With a coarse needle, and a pair of scissors the boy will
-be ready for work. Making an Indian suit will fill a great many rainy
-afternoons full of fun.
-
-The bead belt is the best part of the suit to begin with because a boy
-can experiment with designs as he weaves the beads together, and he
-will be able to form an idea of the pattern he wishes to use when he
-embroiders the shirt and the moccasins. One will need a bead loom on
-which to make the belt. These looms may be bought at a toy shop, but
-that is not really necessary. An old box will do quite as well for a
-loom. The belt in the picture was started on the cover of an old shoe
-box, and a cigar box with the cover and the bottom removed makes a fine
-bead loom. In making a loom from a wooden box, very small screw eyes
-may be put in the ends of the loom, about one quarter of an inch apart
-to hold the threads. In the card board cover shown in the picture, the
-warp threads--those are the lengthwise threads in the weaving--are held
-in place by pins to which they were knotted at the ends of the loom.
-
-Fourteen threads are strung on the loom for a section of the belt,
-as tightly as the card board will allow of their being stretched. A
-needle is then threaded with the coarse cotton thread, and the end is
-tied to the warp thread at the top of the loom at the left. The needle
-is then brought out to the right below the warp strands, thirteen red
-beads--one less bead than the number of the warp strands, remember--are
-strung on the thread, and the beads are pressed up between the warp
-strands so that one bead comes between every two threads. The needle
-is then run back from right to left through the beads _above_ the
-warp threads. This makes one row of beads securely woven to the warp.
-For the second row of beads, six red beads, one blue one and six more
-red ones are strung, the blue bead forming the beginning of a simple
-design. The third row has three blue beads in the center, the fourth
-has five, the fifth three, and the sixth one, completing the design. A
-row of red beads is then woven in, after which the unit of design was
-repeated.
-
-Many different designs will suggest themselves to the boy bead weaver.
-A checker board pattern of squares may be used, there may be a plain
-border at the edges of the belt, or a Greek fret may be introduced with
-charming effect.
-
-When the section of the belt shown in the picture is finished, it may
-be removed from the loom, the ends of thread being tied securely
-about the last row of beads. A second section is strung on the loom,
-blue beads being strung first with a design of red in the center. Four
-sections, two red and two blue, may be sewed together to complete the
-gay little Indian belt.
-
-[Illustration: Indian Shirt Pattern.]
-
-Now for the Indian’s shirt. The pattern which is shown in the picture
-should be enlarged according to the scale, one and one half inches to a
-foot. If chamois skin is used for the shirt, probably one large and two
-smaller skins will need to be joined to give enough material, but if
-the shirt is made of brown denim, the pattern may be laid on a length
-of the cloth, without piecing, and the shirt is then cut. It will not
-be necessary to sew any seams in the shirt. It is folded over at the
-neck opening, and tied on the small boy with narrow strips of leather
-indicated in the picture. One strip of leather is tied under the arms,
-and the other about the hips. The bead embroidery finishes the neck and
-sides of the shirt. To do this embroidery, a needle is threaded with
-coarse linen thread, and knotted at the end. Starting at the right of
-the neck, and close to the edge, the needle is brought through to the
-outside of the shirt. Three beads are then strung. They are held down
-close to the shirt and the needle is thrust through the cloth to the
-inside again. The needle is then brought through, close to the first
-stitch, three more beads are strung, and the embroidery is continued.
-Red and blue beads should be alternated to form a design. This stitch
-described is the simplest one for a boy to use and it is most effective
-also, being the stitch used by the Indians when they embroidered their
-own shirts, moccasins, and leggins.
-
-In starting the embroidery for the sides of the shirt, the bead border
-should be started about two inches from the edge, this margin being
-fringed carefully with sharp scissors after the beads are all sewed on.
-A design of beads, which may be varied according to the taste and skill
-of the boy who makes it, may ornament the front and the back of the
-shirt.
-
-[Illustration: Moccasin Pattern.]
-
-[Illustration: Finished Moccasin.]
-
-Moccasins sound very difficult to make, but here is a pattern all in
-one piece, with no troublesome uppers and soles to be fitted together.
-Chamois skin should be used, if possible, for the moccasins, or the
-light weight leather which may be bought at a craft shop for art work
-and can easily be sewed. When the pattern of the moccasin which is
-shown in the picture has been enlarged according to the scale--three
-inches to a foot--it is laid on the leather or chamois, and a pair
-of moccasins is cut out. It will be found easier to embroider the toe
-before the moccasin is sewed. The sewing which holds the moccasin in
-shape is done with very coarse thread in an over and over stitch.
-Narrow strips of leather may be used, also, for the joining, in which
-case, holes should be punched with a stiletto and awl to admit of
-the leather being passed through the material. After this joining is
-completed, the flap indicated in the picture is folded over on the
-dotted lines, and it is embroidered in the same pattern used to finish
-the neck and sides of the shirt.
-
-[Illustration: A BEAD LOOM MADE OF A BOX COVER]
-
-If there is enough of the material that was used for the shirt left,
-two long, straight pieces may be cut, embroidered on the long edges,
-fringed, and tied about the Indian’s legs for leggins.
-
-A most gorgeous headdress may be made for the Indian from crépe paper
-feathers. The feathers are made by fringing crépe paper and pasting
-this fringe to short lengths of flower wire. Gilt paint will make the
-feathers even more glorious, and when a number of them are finished,
-red, and blue, and green, and yellow--all the rainbow colors in
-fact--they may be wired to a headdress made of stiff cambric or heavy
-cardboard.
-
-What shall we call the boy when he is dressed in his home-made
-chieftain’s suit, which will be more effective, even, than the one
-he saw in the toy shop? Hiawatha, perhaps, as he dons his war paint
-and feathers and starts in search of all sorts of interesting Indian
-adventures.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE STICK PICTURES
-
-
-It is a new sort of fun that a boy can have with just plain, everyday,
-ordinary sticks. You can play at being an Indian, too, at the same time
-for the Indians did it first and called it picture-writing.
-
-Suppose you were an Indian child in paint and feathers, and moccasins.
-Suppose that you never went to school, and never had seen a piece of
-paper or a lead pencil. Then suppose that you wanted to write a letter
-to your little red cousin who lived on the other side of the forest in
-another tribe, far away from yours.
-
-Of course, you have ever so much to tell your little red cousin. You
-want him to know that the big chief, your father, has just put up a
-fine new wigwam of skins for you to live in, a more beautiful wigwam
-than any other in the village. You want the cousins to know, too,
-that the sap has begun to run in the maple tree and soon your mother,
-Laughing Water, will get out the big kettle and build a fire of pine
-branches and boil the fresh, sweet sap into maple sirup. Then there is
-a still more wonderful thing to tell your little red cousin. In the
-full of the last moon, a strange water creature was seen in the river
-in front of your wigwam. It was white, and large, and it had huge white
-wings that the wind filled. It was a pale face ship--much larger, and
-very different from an Indian’s canoe.
-
-Now, how are you going to tell all these exciting things to the
-far-away little red cousin when you have no pencil and no paper for a
-letter, and there is no postman and no railway train to carry a letter
-to the other tribe? Why, it is going to be the easiest thing in the
-world to do. Make some stick pictures that will tell all the stories
-that you would like to write if you only knew how.
-
-In the forest there is a fine old hunting ground. You know just the
-spot where all the tribes gather and build their great camp fires, and
-cook the game, and dance in the evening when the hunt is done. Before
-another moon your cousin’s tribe will be there. And you are going now,
-to the hunting ground, to make some stick pictures for that little
-Indian boy to find. Then he will understand that you have been there
-and you were thinking of him.
-
-Jump into your canoe and paddle down the river. Tie the canoe fast to
-the bank, then jump out and plunge into the forest. You know the way
-to go, for the moss grows on the north side of the trees. There, you
-have come to a cleared spot in the deep, deep woods. There isn’t any
-sound save the chattering of the chipmunks. They won’t disturb your
-picture writing. Now you may go to work.
-
-You break many of the straight, stout twigs from the pine tree. Some
-of the twigs must be long, and others you will break off short to fit
-together where there are corners in the pictures. There is a smooth bed
-of moss under the pine tree. That will be a splendid place for your
-picture writing. First, you will make a picture of the new wigwam. Just
-two long sticks, crossed at the top will make the outline, and you put
-two short sticks together to show the door. Now, for the maple tree.
-You will lay a long stick down on the moss to show the outline of the
-tree. Some shorter sticks, laid close to the sides of the longer stick
-make the branches. The pale face ship may be more difficult to make,
-but you will be able to outline the picture with your sticks. There are
-the sloping sides of the ship and there are the sails.
-
-The picture letter is done. When the little cousin finds it there in
-the woods he will know all about the new wigwam, and the maple sirup,
-and the strange ship. You travel home again if you are a little Indian
-boy, and you don’t mind in the least not having a pencil, or a postman.
-
-How may a little pale face child play at picture writing?
-
-If it is vacation time, you can gather sticks in the woods just as
-the little Indian boy did. Be sure that they are long, straight ones,
-though. You may sit in the grass and lay your stick pictures on the
-lawn, or you may make them on the floor of the piazza.
-
-If you want to make stick pictures in the house on a stormy day, ask
-mother to let you use her sewing table to put them on, or you can lay
-them on the kitchen floor, or the nursery hearth rug. For the indoor
-stick pictures, you can use burnt matches, or toothpicks, or clothes
-pins--anything long and straight will do. You can buy colored sticks
-at a kindergarten shop, and those will be the best of all for stick
-pictures. And if you have a game of jackstraws, the straws may be used
-for the pictures.
-
-The Indians had no picture books, but you have. You can play a game
-with the stick pictures. You can make pictures to illustrate one of
-your favorite stories, and then ask the boy or girl who is playing
-with you to try and guess what the story is that fits the picture.
-
-[Illustration: STICK ILLUSTRATION OF THE STORY OF THE THREE BEARS]
-
-A splendid story to illustrate with stick pictures is The Three Bears.
-
-Here is their house.
-
-Here is the table that held the three bowls of porridge.
-
-Here are their three chairs.
-
-And here are their three beds.
-
-
-
-
-A TOY INDIAN VILLAGE
-
-
-Just fancy an encampment of real, live Indians in the house in a little
-Indian village that you made all yourself! It will be the best sort
-of fun to make the camp, and when it is done it will be a fine, new
-plaything for all winter long, as the toy Indians have sham fights, and
-May dances and tell each other stories around their tiny camp fires.
-And this is the way to make the fascinating toy.
-
-A long, shallow tin with very narrow sides is the foundation for the
-Indian village. The tinsmith has large sheets of bright new tin, and
-he will make you one of these shallow tin trays for just a few cents.
-The florist will give you a basket of soft, black earth--enough to fill
-the tray--and you can mold and pat it into tiny hills and queer little
-valleys, and long foot paths, no wider than your little finger for the
-toy Indians to trail up and down.
-
-You must take a long walk now as far as the woods to find some sprays
-of white pine, hemlock, and spruce for the Indians’ trees. Gather some
-little straight twigs, too, for wigwam foundations, and if the ground
-is still bare, pick up some of the prettiest pebbles you can find for
-make-believe rocks in the Indian encampment. With your jack-knife
-strip from the birch tree just a very little bark to make an Indian
-canoe--not much, for it takes a birch a long, long time to grow more
-bark. Then you may go home again, but on the way, buy a penny’s worth
-of grass seed at the florist’s. What are you to do with all these
-things?
-
-Just listen, and you will find out.
-
-Scatter the grass seed very softly over the earth in your tray and
-sprinkle it with the rubber bulb sprayer that mother uses for her house
-ferns. You would not believe it perhaps, but in a week or ten days
-your little Indian camp ground will be covered with a carpet of soft,
-green grass really growing in the earth. After you have planted the
-grass seed, stick the little evergreen trees in the earth and lay your
-pebbles about as if they really belonged there on the ground. In one
-corner of the tray, if mother is willing, you may sink a shallow, round
-cake tin filled with water to make a miniature lake, and about the lake
-you can put a border of stones covered with the moss that comes in a
-box of Noah’s Ark animals. The tray of earth is quite transformed now
-into a tiny forest.
-
-[Illustration: Pattern for Toy Wigwam.]
-
-Under the trees the Indian wigwams are scattered. Making these tepees
-is ever so much fun and will fill a long winter evening after your
-lessons are learned and you have the library table free to work on.
-Fig. 1 shows you how to cut out an Indian wigwam, and heavy dark brown
-paper or brown canvas is a strong material to use. When the wigwam is
-cut, it may be decorated with paints in any design you wish. A border
-of small squares is an attractive decoration, or some grotesque heads
-and bows and arrows may be painted on. Gold or red paper stars and
-crescents and suns may be cut and glued to the outside of the wigwam,
-forming a very gay scheme of trimming it, or very tiny autumn leaves
-may be waxed and glued on. When a number of these little wigwams have
-been cut, decorated, and glued together, as shown in Fig. 2, place them
-in your play forest, using two or three twigs crossed for supports, the
-ends extending through the hole in the top of the wigwam.
-
-Now you can make the Indians. English walnuts form the heads. These are
-just the right size, brown enough for the complexion of any Indian,
-and nicely wrinkled, too. With a sharp jack-knife smooth down a few
-of the walnut’s wrinkles, and carve the Indian’s features, trying to
-give him high cheek bones. Color his cheeks with vermilion and paint
-his face, too, in as many different colors as you like. A roll of stiff
-paper or cloth glued to the nut head makes the Indian’s body, about
-which is wrapped a blanket of fringed crépe paper, red flannel, or any
-sort of gay stuff that mother will give you. This walnut Indian wears a
-marvelous feather headdress. The feathers come from the chicken yard or
-the oldest feather duster--whichever source is available--and they are
-glued to a strip of brown paper which, in turn is glued to the little
-Indian’s head.
-
-There should be a whole tribe of Indians, as many as you can make
-before bedtime, and when it comes morning run up to the play room and
-stand the Indian braves at the doors of their wigwams or in the little
-path between the trees where they can see their real green grass coming
-up, and enjoy the friendly shelter of their fine little camping ground.
-
-These nut Indians will need bows and arrows when they have sham
-battles. Tiny twigs may be bent bow shape with rubber bands for bow
-strings and burned out matches may be sharpened to a point for arrows.
-Toothpicks make arrows, too. A bow and a bundle of arrows may be laid
-at the door of each little Indian’s wigwam. The canoe that floats on
-the tin pan lake is made of a strip of folded birch bark shaped at the
-ends like a real canoe and stitched with brown linen thread. It will
-really float if it is carefully made.
-
-For a camp fire, pile up some broken twigs in a cleared spot in your
-Indian encampment and put in some scraps of twisted, red tissue paper
-which will look like flames. One of the kettles from the dolls’ kitchen
-may hang on a forked stick over this make-believe fire to cook the
-dinner for the walnut Indian tribe.
-
-This play Indian village will last all winter, a comfortable camping
-ground for the tribe, and a delightful plaything for the clever boy who
-made it.
-
-There may be some walnut squaws added perhaps, and some peanut
-papooses wrapped in blankets cut from a scrap of old chamois and hung
-contentedly by thread to the sheltering trees. The grass will grow so
-high that it may have to be mowed with the nursery scissors, and when
-the trees fade, more can be gathered and put in the places of the old
-ones.
-
-
-
-
-CORN TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM
-
-
-Corn cobs really look as if they would like to play. There is a whole
-binful out in the barn, and the chickens do not want them and neither
-does the farmer. He will make a big bonfire out in the wood lot
-some day and burn up all the corn cobs if the children do not take
-possession of them first, and help them to play by making them into
-toys.
-
-What fine, long, straight little logs they are for a log cabin, or they
-might be made into Indian or toy rafts, or a rail fence, or almost
-anything else a child chooses.
-
-First you can make a little rail fence that stretches across one corner
-of the barn floor. To do this, lay down six corn cobs in zigzag fashion
-on the floor with the ends not quite as far apart as the cobs are long.
-Then across every two cob ends lay another cob and finish the fence in
-this way, making it very snug.
-
-Behind the fence lives Apple Johnny. He owns the farm whose boundary
-lines the fence marks out on the floor. Apple Johnny has a little hard
-apple for his head joined by a toothpick to a fat apple that forms his
-body. His legs and arms are twigs and his face is cut with a jack-knife
-in the smaller apple. Apple Johnny has a herd of wild potato horses on
-his farm. Each potato has four twig legs, and a flowing mane, made of
-a fringed corn husk pinned to the long end of the potato, and a straw
-tail pinned to the other end.
-
-As you put the last corn cob in the fence, you heard the rain just
-pouring and pouring on the barn eaves. Suppose the roof of the barn
-should cave in and the whole inside be flooded! What would poor little
-Apple Johnny do, and how would he ever make his escape? Apple Johnny
-must have a raft. Select six more corn cobs from the binful, all of
-them just the same length, and lay them down on the barn floor, side by
-side. In one of the corners of the barn is an old last summer’s berry
-basket. Strip off two bits of the binding rim as long as the row of
-cobs is wide. Nail one to each end of the row of corn cobs, putting a
-nail in each cob, which holds the small raft firmly in place. Then turn
-the raft right side up and to one end nail a long, straight twig for
-a mast, to which you can glue a white paper sail. It is a fine little
-raft when it is completed, and strong enough to carry Apple Johnny and
-a potato horse or two safely through any possible flood.
-
-But Apple Johnny has no house. Well, a house is easily planned when one
-has a whole bin of corn cobs to draw upon for building materials.
-
-Gather an armful of cobs and make a corn-cob house. Lay two corn cobs
-opposite each other, and two more across the ends, log cabin fashion,
-driving nails through to hold them together. Next, put two more corn
-cobs over the first two and two more over the second, until the house
-is twice as high as Apple Johnny is tall. For a roof, nail two sides
-of the berry basket to the log cabin, and then with a rip saw cut out
-a front door high enough to let Apple Johnny step through. There will
-be rather wide chinks in the house, but you can play that these are
-windows through which Apple Johnny can watch for the corn-cob Indians
-and shoot at them with a twig musket when he sees them coming.
-
-You can make a whole tribe of these corn-cob Indians, and it will
-be the most fun of all, even jollier than making a corn-cob fence,
-and a raft, and a house. First, wind corn husks around a cob to make
-the Indian’s clothes, but leave one end, the larger end of the cob,
-uncovered because that is going to be the Indian’s head. Then on this
-end, mark a face with a bit of charcoal; eyes, nose, and mouth; and
-paint the cheeks red with a crushed cranberry, rubbing the juice on
-the corn cob. The hens’ nests in the barn are full of ever so many
-pretty feathers, so you can collect as many of these as you wish and
-glue them to the corn-cob Indian’s head for his headdress. Last of
-all, ask mother if she is willing to give you a few pieces of the left
-over plain cloth from sister’s school dress for the corn-cob Indian’s
-blanket. Of course mother is willing. Almost every mother is willing to
-give a boy things when he is trying to amuse himself all alone. She may
-even cut a square of gay plaid from the piece of cloth itself and turn
-out all the pieces from her sewing bag, where there are other scraps
-just right for Indians’ blankets; red flannel, and gray serge like your
-last winter suit, and brown merino, and yellow silk.
-
-The Indian looks very splendid indeed in his feather headdress and a
-red plaid blanket. All he needs then is a bow and quiver of arrows. The
-bow you can make by bending a length of willow and tying a piece of
-cord across. The arrows are shorter, pointed twigs with a very small
-hen’s feather tied to the end of each.
-
-This Indian you can name Chief Big Cob.
-
-[Illustration: CORN COB PAPPOOSE]
-
-[Illustration: CORN COB INDIAN]
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE A MARBLE BAG
-
-
-Nobody knows why the first of March brings marbles, but it certainly
-does. Some games really belong to the season in which they come as
-coasting and snowfights, but other games are played at certain times
-of the year for no reason except that they always have been and always
-will be. If some one should ask a boy--any boy, why it wouldn’t be
-better to play football in the summer and baseball at Thanksgiving
-time, he couldn’t tell you, but his sense of the fitness of things
-would be outraged.
-
-And so, when the snow goes away, and the frost comes out of the ground,
-and the sap begins to run in the trees, and a boy’s toes wiggle and
-wiggle and long to kick out of his shoes and dig themselves into the
-soft mud, it is quite the proper thing for him to hunt up all his last
-year’s marbles, and ask his sister--or somebody else’s sister--to make
-him a bag to hold them, so that he will be ready for the season’s
-marble campaign.
-
-The simplest marble bag to make is one which is made in just the same
-way as a tobacco pouch. Take an oblong piece of heavy tan canvas,
-measuring twelve inches long by five inches wide. Tan does not show the
-dirt readily, and the heavier the material is the better, for the bag
-is not going to be gently handled. Double this piece of canvas in the
-center, so that it forms a bag six inches deep by five wide. Sew up the
-two side seams with a coarse needle and very heavy linen thread, and
-make the seams very strong. The sewing should be about a quarter of an
-inch back from the edges. Then “scrape” the seams open, which simply
-means to run your thumb nail along the seams right where the joining
-is, so that one raw edge shall be folded toward each side. Next make
-a hem at the top by folding the material over once, and then again.
-This hem should be about a quarter of an inch wide, and in sewing it
-down leave a space unsewed on one side where it crosses the seam, so
-that the draw string can be run in. Turn your bag so that it will be
-right side out, and the seaming all on the inside. A piece of heavy,
-wrapping-paper twine twelve inches long will make a fine draw string,
-by running it through the hem with a bodkin and tying the two ends
-together.
-
-[Illustration: Pattern of a Marble Bag.]
-
-Another marble bag that will prove very satisfactory, and will be so
-unusual that the boy who owns it can gloat over the other fellows, is
-made of very heavy chamois, or buckskin. A paper pattern is made first,
-like Fig. 1. It measures two and a half inches across the top, four and
-a half inches from side to side at a point three and three-quarters
-inches below the top, and its height is six and a half inches. After
-these points have been determined a boy can mark in the vase shaped
-outline freehand. When the pattern is made and cut out, lay it on the
-buckskin, holding it carefully, so that it will not slip, and cut four
-pieces just alike. Then take a large darning needle or a “rug” needle
-and thread it with a strand of raffia. If red, or blue, or green raffia
-are used instead of the ordinary natural color, it will make the sewing
-very decorative. Take two of the pieces of buckskin, and, beginning at
-the bottom, sew them together with the stitch that is used for making
-baseballs. This is done by taking a stitch up from underneath, then
-crossing over, and taking a stitch up from the under side of the other
-piece, then back to the first piece and so on, drawing the raffia snug
-each time. Instead of making a knot at the beginning, leave the raffia
-hanging loose for about an inch or more, and when the top of the seam
-is reached, fasten the raffia tight before cutting off. Next join the
-third piece to the second in the same way, the fourth to the third,
-and then the fourth to the first, so that all four together form a
-bag. Take the four ends of raffia at the bottom and knot them snugly
-together, two by two. They may be trimmed off short, or left hanging
-loose to form a tassel for decoration. Now take a narrow piece of soft
-wood and slip it inside the mouth of the bag, so that you can cut slits
-for the draw string. They are cut with a sharp penknife and should come
-just at the narrowest part, or neck of the bag. If the upper ends of
-the cuts are three-quarters of an inch from the top of the bag, and the
-cuts themselves a half inch long, they will be about right. There are
-four cuts in each section making sixteen cuts in all. Next take three
-pieces of raffia twenty-four inches long. Knot the three together at
-one end, and then braid them tightly into a cord. When the other end
-is reached knot it as you did the first. String this cord through the
-slits in the neck of the bag just as though you were weaving--under
-one, over one, under one, over one--and then when it is all strung, tie
-the two ends together in a square knot.
-
-It makes an exceedingly unique bag, and will hold all the marbles a
-boy can win, and besides winning marbles he will win the envy of every
-other boy who sees his fine, new marble bag.
-
-[Illustration: WHITTLED SCHOOL BOX]
-
-[Illustration: CHAMOIS MARBLE BAG]
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SCHOOL BOX
-
-
-Every boy needs a pencil box. Plain little oblong boxes most of them,
-with a flat hinged cover, and a little lock that you keep carefully
-fastened with the key. That is, a boy locks his pencil box when he is
-able to find the key, but whether it was in his pocket, or fastened to
-his watch chain, the school-box key always does manage to get away,
-somewhere--to make its escape.
-
-One day, however, the boy sees displayed in the window of a stationery
-shop, a new sort of pencil box, a most fascinating kind. The cover of
-the box is made of narrow strips of wood fastened side by side like the
-strips in the top of a roll-top desk, and when the shopman opens the
-pencil box to show the boy the inside, the cover just _slides_ right
-back out of sight, while the boy looks on in open-eyed astonishment.
-The shopman’s supply of these magic boxes is limited, though, and there
-is a wild scramble for their possession among the boys who can produce
-ten cents--for that is the exorbitant price charged by the shopman.
-The boy wants one of those magic boxes. His fingers just tingle and
-burn to hold one and try to make the cover slide in its charming way,
-but he has only five cents, he can’t buy one.
-
-The boy will be able to make his own pencil box, though, and this
-is the way he must go about it in order to construct one of those
-fascinating, roll-top ones, just like the one in the shop window.
-
-In the first place, a boy must know how to whittle. All that he
-needs in the way of material is a jack-knife, some pieces of wood
-three-sixteenths of an inch thick, some more pieces an eighth thick, a
-strip of white cloth, and some little three-eighth inch nails.
-
-The first piece to make (Fig. 1) is the side of the box. It is just
-a plain oblong of the three-sixteenth inch wood, measuring nine
-inches long by two and a quarter inches wide. All the pieces are made
-three-sixteenths thick except the strips for the cover. Two of these
-sides are necessary of course.
-
-Next come two strips nine inches long and a quarter of an inch wide
-which are fastened, notched side up on the inside of each side,
-“flush”--even--that is, with the top, with four little nails driven
-from the outside. The piece which is cut from the end of each of these,
-as shown in the drawing, is to make a joint which is later to be
-fitted with Fig. 10.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a School Box.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a School Box.]
-
-Fig. 3 is eight and nine-sixteenths inches long and one and
-seven-sixteenths wide and one end is rounded into a half circle. Figs.
-3 and 4 are nailed in position on the inside of the side pieces, and
-together they form the track around which the cover runs. Two of each
-are required. Fig. 5 is the bottom piece, and is simply an oblong nine
-inches long by two and a half wide. It is placed in position with the
-side pieces upright on either side of it and nailed from the outside.
-
-It is best to make the cover next, so that you can test it and see that
-it works smoothly before any more of the box is put together. It is
-made of little strips (Fig. 6) three-eighths of an inch wide and two
-and a half inches long, “sliding fit,” which means that they are to be
-a little less than two and a half, so that they will slide in a space
-two and a half inches wide. A sharp rub on the ends with sandpaper will
-make this slight difference. There are twenty-two of these strips, and
-they are glued side by side on a strip of white muslin cloth. If you
-use a piece with a selvage on one side, you will be more sure of making
-the cover perfectly straight.
-
-Fig. 7 is the handle and is to be nailed flat to the second strip--the
-one next to the end strip.
-
-Fig. 8 and Fig. 9 are a false bottom and false end, which form the
-receptacle for the pencils, and hide the mechanism of the cover. They
-are nailed in position as shown in Fig. 12. The nails to fasten these
-in place must be a little longer than the others, because they have to
-be nailed from the outside and must go through two thicknesses of wood
-and project into a third.
-
-The next piece to make is Fig. 10--an oblong measuring one and a half
-inches by two and a half, and cut to make a joint with Fig. 2. This is
-placed across the top and nailed down, covering the rounding end of the
-“track.”
-
-Now the cover may be slipped into position and the end pieces (Fig.
-11), oblongs two and a quarter inches by two and seven-eighths, nailed
-on, and the box is done.
-
-It is a convenient size, the receptacle for pencils is ample, and to
-one who does not know, the disappearance of that cover when it opens is
-a mystery that borders on black art.
-
-
-
-
-A HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND
-
-
-Nobody will deny that a Christmas tree has plenty of backbone, but
-somehow it doesn’t seem to have intelligence enough to use it. Or else
-it resents the taking away of its roots and the substitution of a
-shop-made standard that it considers inadequate. As a matter of fact
-the standards that you can buy in the shops _are_ inadequate for a tree
-of any size. And so, if the boy of the family is handy with tools, it
-is up to him to make one.
-
-A very good standard for a Christmas tree--strong, durable, and
-ornamental as well--may be made from a strip of one-by-two-inch
-“dressed” lumber 12 ft. long (which costs about a cent and a half a
-foot), and some pieces of an old dry goods box.
-
-First, saw off from your one-by-two-inch strip four pieces twelve
-inches long and four pieces eleven inches. These are to make Figs. 1,
-2, and 4. Make four pieces like Fig. 1 and two pieces like Fig. 2; the
-notch at the end is cut with a saw across the grain, and then split out
-with a chisel.
-
-When these are done, join two of the twelve-inch pieces and two of the
-eleven inch to form a square frame. The joint is shown in Fig. 3, and
-it should be glued or nailed, or both, which is safer.
-
-Next make the other two eleven-inch pieces like Fig. 4. These are just
-like Fig. 2 except that a groove four inches wide and one inch deep
-is cut in the middle of each. Then they are joined with the other
-twelve-inch pieces to form a frame similar to the first. The first
-frame is to go at the bottom of the standard, and the second frame,
-placed with the grooves _up_, is for the top.
-
-Now cut from the remainder of the strip two more pieces twelve inches
-long. With a compass set at an inch-and-a-half radius, and the center
-in the exact middle of one edge, draw a half circle on each, and chip
-it out with a chisel like Fig. 5. The use of these will be described
-later.
-
-The remainder of the strip will make four pieces eighteen inches long,
-with a bit left over. These are to stand on their two-inch faces, and
-the upper edges of each end should be rounded off with a “block” plane.
-Then two grooves are cut in each piece, two of the pieces having the
-grooves on the upper side and two on the under side, like Figs. 6
-and 7.
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.]
-
-[Illustration: Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.]
-
-Now cut from your packing box sixteen strips or pickets one and
-three-quarters inches wide and fourteen inches long, like Fig. 8.
-These may be “ripped out” with a saw and smoothed up with a plane and
-sandpaper.
-
-[Illustration: Christmas Tree Stand.]
-
-To “assemble” the standard join first the two Fig. 6 strips and two
-Fig. 7. This leaves a hole two inches square in the center and two
-strips projecting from each of the four sides. Place the first square
-frame that you made on this, so that its sides will be equally distant
-from the center, and nail in position. Next nail the pickets in
-position so that the lower end of the pickets will be “flush” with the
-lower side of the frame. Next, hold the upper frame, with the grooves
-up, in position, eight inches above the lower frame and nail the
-pickets to that. Fig. 9 shows the complete assembly.
-
-Now give the frame, and the two pieces like Fig. 5 a coat of dark green
-paint, and the standard is ready for use. Slip the tree into the square
-hole in the base. If the trunk is a bit too large, whittle it to fit.
-Then place the two pieces like Fig. 5 around the trunk at the top of
-the frame for a clamp, and slip them into the grooves in the upper
-frame, and you will find your tree quite ready to stand up and behave.
-
-
-
-
-HOW TO WRAP CHRISTMAS PARCELS
-
-
-How many boys and big folks, too, have at some time received a
-Christmas gift which was broken, or crushed, or spoiled in some way
-through the careless packing of the sender. Even at ordinary times the
-mail service and Express Companies are hard enough upon packages given
-to their care. The term “baggage-smasher” ought not to be restricted
-to the employees of the railways alone, and when at Christmas time
-the mails and express lines are congested with packages of all
-descriptions, and the men are tired and overworked trying to deliver
-gifts that have been sent at the last minute--then it is doubly needful
-to insure the safety of your Christmas presents by careful packing.
-
-Of course the wrapping of a gift cannot change its value, but you
-should bear in mind that your gift will _seem_ doubly attractive to the
-one who receives it, if inside of the serviceable outside wrapping,
-there is another dainty one, and the expense is so trifling that it
-need hardly be considered. A dozen sheets of tissue paper cost only
-a dime. Pure white or warm “Christmassy” red are the most desirable
-kinds. Another dime will purchase a box of Christmas seals--small ones
-with pictures of holly and mistletoe, or large ones with Santa Claus
-heads or Christmas bells on them. If you prefer tying, to sealing, the
-ten cents will buy a dozen yards of “tying” ribbon, which is crimson
-“baby” ribbon in a cheaper grade than is ordinarily sold. Gilt cord
-is also very attractive for tying up gifts, and a tiny spray of holly
-tucked under the cord or ribbon gives a final dainty Christmas touch.
-
-Perhaps, though, you live so far away from a town that you are not able
-to buy these Christmas seals, and the tying ribbon. Almost, if not
-quite as pretty to fasten the inside tissue paper wrapping of a gift
-will be some very tiny, red maple leaves gathered in the fall with the
-thought of Christmas in mind, and pressed with a hot flat iron on which
-some beeswax has been rubbed. This preserves the bright color of the
-leaves and keeps them stiff until you need to use them. After carefully
-folding in the ends of the tissue paper about the gift, the paper is
-fastened down by gluing on a few of these gay, pressed leaves, and in
-the folds of the paper a wee spray of pine or a little wreath made of
-ground pine, or a bunch of partridge berries may be tucked. Another
-way of making a gift look like the country is to tie it with strands of
-sweet grass.
-
-When the gifts are wrapped, and you are ready to pack them for
-shipment, there are a few general rules that must be remembered.
-
-First: That the gifts must be packed as snugly as it is possible to do
-without harming them.
-
-Second: That nothing--not even excelsior--is quite as effective in
-stopping the transmission of bumps and jars as crumpled up newspapers.
-
-Third: That the name and address of the person to whom the gift is sent
-and also the address of the sender must be legibly written in your
-best school hand on the outer covering where they are not liable to be
-torn off. You must remember that, while the names and addresses are
-perfectly familiar to you, they are totally unknown to the men through
-whose hands the parcels go, and in handling thousands of packages,
-illegible writing means much delay.
-
-The rule of packing things tightly refers to _everything_--even things
-which would seem most crushable, for there is far more harm done by
-packing these loosely so that they slip around with every turn of the
-package, than by crushing them flat in one position. Take a delicate
-waist, for instance. If packed loosely, it will come out of its box
-rumpled and wrinkled in every direction, but if it is folded flat, the
-sleeves stuffed with crumpled tissue paper, and the spaces around it in
-the box filled with the same, it will reach its destination quite as
-fresh as when it started.
-
-It is better to _box_ all gifts if possible. Very pretty Christmas
-boxes of all sizes and shapes may be bought in the shops, or, in place
-of these, you can use empty candy boxes which most people stow away for
-just such purposes.
-
-Do not select a box that is too small and leaves too little space for
-filling in with crushed paper, and try and think, too, of the weight of
-the gift in selecting your box.
-
-If you are packing odd pieces of china, wrap each piece separately, and
-see that they are well segregated with the crushed paper. If you are
-packing a number of pieces of uniform size and shape--such as saucers,
-plates, etc.--place them in a pile with every _second_ one well
-wrapped. Then wrap the whole pile and pack _edgewise_.
-
-China should be packed in a wooden box, with an addressed baggage tag
-nailed on, or the address put on the wood itself with India ink.
-
-Flat things, calendars, cards, photographs, and handkerchiefs, gloves,
-neckties, ribbons, etc. if unboxed, must be protected by pasteboard.
-For this, the corrugated pasteboard that is used by department stores
-is much more effective than the ordinary flat sort. It is much less
-easily bent, and is lighter in weight, which is of course a great
-advantage, because it makes the cost of mailing less.
-
-This corrugated pasteboard is also very good for wrapping things which
-are light in weight, but bulky and of awkward shape, for it may be
-rolled to accommodate almost any object.
-
-Doilies, centerpieces, and other flat embroideries must necessarily
-be kept uncreased in shipping, but are too large to be sent flat. Lay
-them first on a sheet of heavy wrapping paper, cut square and slightly
-larger than the embroidered piece. Then lay over the embroidery a
-sheet of tissue paper, and carefully roll the whole thing. Then form a
-tubular covering of the corrugated pasteboard, and wrap with hardware
-paper outside. In tying up a tube, the cord should go twice around the
-tube--once near each end--and the cord which goes lengthwise should go
-through the opening of the tube so that the contents will not slip out.
-
-In tying packages for mailing, use good strong cord, and remember that
-a package must bear no kind of a seal and contain no kind of writing
-beyond a simple Christmas greeting if it is to go as “merchandise.”
-Even one of the little paper seals stuck over the string will render
-the package “first class” and subject to letter postage.
-
-Just one more thing to be remembered at Christmas time. Courtesy is
-only another name for kindness, and it would be discourteous to send
-a gift which was not fully prepaid; or to send a gift “across the
-line,” which is dutiable to any great extent. And in courtesy to the
-men and women who have to handle your gifts on their journeys, send
-your Christmas presents long enough ahead of time so that these men and
-women may not be too tired when Christmas comes to feel themselves its
-blessed peace and cheer.
-
-
-
-
-YOUR OWN WIRELESS RECEIVING STATION
-
-
-Most boys are interested in wireless telegraphy, and it is possible for
-any one of them to make a simple apparatus by which they can “cut in”
-and receive any wireless message that happens to be passing through
-their particular zone.
-
-The receiving set will require a number of different parts, but they
-are easily made--when one knows how.
-
-For actual hearing you will need a telephone receiver of some sort.
-One may be bought for about seventy-five cents at an electrical supply
-house, or an old one, provided it is in good condition, may be used.
-
-Next comes a “detector.” This consists of a wooden base about six
-inches long by four wide and an inch thick, on which is mounted a piece
-of silicon about the size of an egg. An insulated wire passed once
-around the silicon and then through two holes in the base will hold the
-silicon in position in the center of the block. Put a brass screw an
-inch long at each end of the block and “connect up” the silicon in the
-following way: First take a piece of No. 22 single-covered copper wire,
-scrape off a few inches of the covering, and wind this bare copper wire
-several times around a small round stick to form a spring. The bare end
-of the spring must be filed to a point and rest against one end of the
-silicon, while the other end of the wire is wound around one of the
-brass screws. Next, take a piece of ordinary insulated telephone wire,
-bare one end far enough to wind firmly around the free end of the piece
-of silicon, and then wind the other end of this wire around the second
-brass screw. This makes a metallic circuit through the silicon which
-will “make” or “break” with the touching or removing of the spring.
-
-[Illustration: Detector.]
-
-[Illustration: Tuning Coil.]
-
-Next you need a “tuning coil.” This has a wooden base twelve inches
-by six and an inch thick. To make the coil itself a stick twelve
-inches long and one and a half inches in diameter--a piece of an old
-curtain pole will do--and wind carefully on it a half pound of the
-No. 22 single-covered copper wire. The end of this wire is fastened
-to the stick with a small tack, and it should be wound very evenly
-and closely. The last end is left free for a connection. After it is
-wound give the wire three coats of shellac, making sure that each coat
-is dry before another one is put on. When it is thoroughly dry mark
-two straight lines from end to end, a quarter of an inch apart. With
-a sharp knife scrape off the insulation so that the wires are bare on
-the outside, but be careful not to disturb the insulation between the
-wires. To mount the coil, nail at each end a wooden strip three inches
-wide, three and a half high and one inch thick. This has also to be
-nailed to the base, and it should be placed so that the coil will clear
-the base by a half inch. The strip of bare wire on the coil should
-be uppermost. Now get a brass rod one quarter of an inch square and
-thirteen inches long; a thin brass strip one quarter inch wide and two
-inches long; another strip one inch wide and one and one-quarter inches
-long; and two round headed brass screws. Bend the wider brass strip
-around the brass rod to form a slider. Bend the narrow brass strip in
-the center to form a V spring. Solder one end of this to the slider so
-that it is in the position shown in the drawing. Slip the slider on the
-brass rod, place the rod in position directly over the pathway of bared
-wire on the coil so that the lower end of the V spring will press on
-this pathway, and fasten the rod securely with the brass screws to the
-wooden end pieces.
-
-[Illustration: Aerial.]
-
-[Illustration: Switch.]
-
-For the “aërial” get three or four hundred feet of wire--No.
-16 galvanized wire will do, though aluminum or copper wire is
-better--some insulator knobs, and two cross spreaders three feet
-long. The parallel wires in the aërial should be at least two feet
-apart, and the aërial should be placed as high as possible so that
-surrounding buildings, etc., will not interfere with the wireless wave.
-The bare wires, wherever they are fastened to poles or trees must, of
-course, be wound around insulators. For a ground connection, fasten
-an ordinary insulated wire to a water pipe or to a piece of iron pipe
-sunk five feet in damp ground. A safety switch may be made, like the
-drawing, from a piece of wood six inches square and an inch thick, a
-piece of stiff brass three inches long and a half inch wide, and three
-round-headed brass screws.
-
-[Illustration: Diagram of Circuit.]
-
-This completes the separate parts of the receiving apparatus. To
-connect it up for use, follow the circuit diagram. One wire from the
-aërial leads through the safety switch to the tuning coil. From the
-tuning coil carry an insulated wire to the detector, and from the
-detector to the ground. The receiver has two wires leading from it--one
-to a point between the detector and the tuning coil, and the other to
-a similar point between the detector and the ground. When not in use
-the aërial should be connected directly with the ground by means of the
-safety switch. Where two wires are connected they must of course have
-the insulation scraped off so that bare wire rests against bare wire.
-
-When you have learned to translate your messages you will be able to
-do quite a bit of wireless eavesdropping, and your receiver will click
-with countless messages.
-
-
-THE END
-
-
-
-
-TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:
-
-
-  Italicized text is surrounded by underscores: _italics_.
-
-  Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
-
-  Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized.
-
-  Archaic or alternate spelling that may have been in use at the time of
-    publication has been retained.
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by 
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Boys' Make-at-Home Things, by 
-Carolyn Sherwin Bailey and Marian Elizabeth Bailey
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Boys' Make-at-Home Things
-
-Author: Carolyn Sherwin Bailey
-        Marian Elizabeth Bailey
-
-Release Date: November 3, 2019 [EBook #60621]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chris Curnow, David E. Brown, and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-<h1>BOYS&#8217; MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS</h1>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_005.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="titlepage">
-
-<p><span class="xxlarge">BOYS&#8217;<br />
-MAKE-AT-HOME<br />
-THINGS</span></p>
-
-<p>BY<br />
-<span class="large">CAROLYN SHERWIN BAILEY</span><br />
-AND<br />
-<span class="large">MARIAN ELIZABETH BAILEY</span></p>
-
-<p>WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>NEW YORK<br />
-<span class="large">FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY</span><br />
-PUBLISHERS</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Copyright, 1912, by</i><br />
-<span class="smcap">Frederick A. Stokes Company</span><br />
-<br />
-<i>All rights reserved, including that of translation into foreign<br />
-languages, including the Scandinavian</i></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<div class="figleft"><img src="images/i_007.jpg" alt="" /><p><i>September, 1912</i></p></div></div>
-
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">PREFACE</h2></div>
-
-
-<p>Make-At-Home-Things for Boys aims to keep
-boys busy and entertained. It furnishes them
-with simple directions for making toys and useful
-articles, all of which are carefully pictured. The
-aim of the book, is to give boys an idea of the
-craft possibilities which lie in the crudest materials,
-often the waste material of the home and in
-this way to develop real artistic ability.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></p>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2></div>
-
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="table">
-
-<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Preface</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_v">v</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Making of Tools Necessary for Whittling</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Practical Work Bench</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Work Bench Accessories</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Turning Lathe</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Toy Train</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Out-door Toys</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own Desk Set</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Wild Animals You can Make</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Set of Mission Furniture</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Toys That Hide in the Wood Box</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Wonderful Dodo Bird</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Fleet of Toy Boats</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Play Tent</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own Tops</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Farm the Scissors Built</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">More Box Plays</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Recipe for a Noah&#8217;s Ark</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own Uniform</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Jointed Toy Animals. How to Make Them</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Your Own Circus</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bead Work for Boys</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Stick Pictures</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Toy Indian Village</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_149">149</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Corn Toys and How to Make Them</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_155">155</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make a Marble Bag</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Make Your Own School Box</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Home-made Christmas Tree Stand</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">How to Wrap Christmas Parcels</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_177">177</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">Your Own Wireless Receiving Station</span></td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_183">183</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2></div>
-
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="table">
-
-<tr><td>Whittled Toy Train</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_i"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="tdr"><small>FACING PAGE</small></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Knife-strop</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_6a">6</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Whittled Weather Vane; Kite Stick; &#8220;Cat&#8221;; Reel
-for Fish Line; &#8220;Cat&#8221; Stick</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_38a">38</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>File; Ink Well; Pen Tray</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_46a">46</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Book Rack</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_50a">50</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Whittled Wild Animals: Giraffe, Camel</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_54a">54</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Whittled Wild Animals: Bear, Lion, &#8220;Darwin&#8221;</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_56a">56</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Dolls&#8217; Chair and Table Whittled in Mission Style</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_60a">60</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Dolls&#8217; Whittled Chest of Drawers; Dolls&#8217; Whittled
-Bed</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_64a">64</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Toy Barnyard Made of Kindling Wood</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_68a">68</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>A Set of Dolls&#8217; Furniture Made by Gluing Together
-Blocks of Kindling Wood</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74a">74</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>The Dodo Bird</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_80a">80</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>A Cork Raft; A Cork Sail Boat</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_84a">84</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Whittled Toy Sail Boat</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_88a">88</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Whittled Clown Top</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_96a">96</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Beet Top; Top Made of Graduated Disks; Button Mold Top</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_98a">98</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Cart, Barn and Barrow Made of Cardboard Boxes</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_104a">104</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Circus Parade (The Cage is Made of a Shoe Box)</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_108a">108</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>The Ark; Cardboard Animals Who Live in the Ark</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_112a">112</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Going Aboard the Ark</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_114a">114</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Pattern for Soldier&#8217;s Cap; The Finished Uniform:
-Cap, Shield, Sword and Epaulets</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_120a">120</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Jointed Cardboard Animals</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_126a">126</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>A Bead Loom Made of a Box Cover</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_140a">140</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Stick Illustration of the Story of The Three Bears</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_146a">146</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Corn Cob Pappoose; Corn Cob Indian</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_158a">158</a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td>Whittled School Box; Chamois Marble Bag</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_164a">164</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p class="ph1">BOYS&#8217; MAKE-AT-HOME THINGS</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span>
-
-
-
-<p class="ph2">BOYS&#8217; MAKE-AT-HOME
-THINGS</p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2 class="nobreak">THE MAKING OF TOOLS NECESSARY
-FOR WHITTLING</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THE tools which one will need for whittling&mdash;the
-kind of whittling that makes something
-besides splinters&mdash;are very simple and few in
-number. Any boy&#8217;s pocket will furnish a jack-knife,
-and it is pretty sure to be a sharp one.</p>
-
-<p>With a knife, a pencil, and some pieces of
-wood, all the other tools may be made. Basswood
-is the easiest wood to handle because it is
-soft, and very close grained. If basswood can
-not be had, pine is the next best wood, and an
-old egg crate, which any grocer will be glad to
-get rid of, will furnish you with enough whittling
-material for a long time.</p>
-
-<p>The scale for measuring (Fig. 3) should be
-made first, as it is the tool most necessary in
-laying out the other tools. One of the thin strips
-from the side of the egg crate may be used for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>
-this. The outline of the scale must be drawn on
-the wood with a hard pencil. A &#8220;6 H&#8221; is the
-best. The &#8220;H&#8221; means &#8220;hard,&#8221; and the number
-of H&#8217;s shows the degree of hardness. The pencil
-should be sharpened on both ends&mdash;one end
-rubbed to a fine point on sandpaper, and the
-other end to a chisel point. The sharp point is to
-mark, accurately, the points to which lines are
-to be drawn, and the chisel point is to draw the
-lines with. After the outline is drawn it may
-be cut.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_017.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></p>
-
-<p>First take off a splinter or two to determine the
-direction of the grain, because one long cut
-against the grain might spoil your work. When
-this is determined, you should cut down <i>almost</i>
-to the outline, using a long, free stroke from the
-shoulder for the cutting in the direction of the
-grain. For the cross-grained cutting at the ends,
-the knife is held in the four fingers, with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>
-thumb steadying the near side of the wood, and
-the cut is made toward the thumb. Only a very
-short cut may be made at a time, and then a bit
-of wood is clipped away so that the next cut may
-be made. This cutting, also, should be done
-near, but not on, the line. After the model is
-roughly cut out, it should be worked down very
-carefully to the lines, the beveled edge cut, and
-then sandpapered smooth all over. The sandpaper
-must be put over a small block of wood, and
-held very flat. Otherwise it will spoil a straight
-surface. Then the graduations are to be put on.
-If nothing better is at hand, the spacing may be
-done with mother&#8217;s tape measure. Lay off the
-spaces with the pointed end of the pencil, and then
-draw the lines which show the spacing, making
-those which show the sixteenths, <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>16</sub>&#8243; long; the
-eighths, <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>8</sub>&#8243; long; the quarters, <sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>16</sub>&#8243; long; the
-halves, <sup>5</sup>&frasl;<sub>16</sub>&#8243;, or the full width of the bevel.
-This must be done with a pencil, for ink would
-run into the wood and spread. The inch dimensions
-should be marked 1, 2, 3, etc., and a light
-coat of shellac or varnish will add much to the
-durability of the scale. The back edge of the
-scale may be used as a straight edge, and to lay
-the pencil against for drawing lines, but it should
-be remembered that the scale itself&mdash;that is, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>
-graduated side&mdash;must never be used for this. If
-it were, the graduations would soon be spoiled.</p>
-
-<p>The tool which is most necessary next to the
-scale is the square (Fig. 4), and this should also
-be made with great accuracy. It is used to test
-two adjoining edges, to see if they are square
-with each other. In making anything of wood,
-one of the largest surfaces is generally made perfectly
-true, and marked with a little cross (x),
-designating it as the &#8220;face.&#8221; One of the adjoining
-edges&mdash;not a cross-grained one&mdash;is also made
-true and square with the first surface, and marked
-with a second cross, as the &#8220;working edge.&#8221;
-Then all the other measuring and squaring is
-done from these two surfaces.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_019.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></p>
-
-<p>The piece of wood to be tested should be held
-in the left hand, on a level with the eye, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>
-the square held in the right hand, with one of the
-inner edges resting against the wood, and the
-other projecting over it is moved back and forth.
-Any unevenness in the wood will readily be seen.
-The outside edges of the square may also be used
-for testing the evenness of wide flat surfaces.
-It is made like the pattern, of two strips of wood,
-with a fitted joint glued together.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_020.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p>
-
-<p>The knife strop shown in Fig. 1 is a great help
-in whittling, because it will keep your knife in
-good condition. A piece of the heavier wood at
-the end of the egg crate may be used for this. It
-is made from a strip measuring 1<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>&#8243; wide by 11&#8243;
-long, and the strip of leather (cut from a discarded
-razor strop) is glued on. The <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>8</sub>&#8243; bevel
-is continued all the way around the handle on
-both sides to make it fit the hand. The hole in
-the end is to hang it up by, and may be made
-with a hammer and nail, or with a bit and brace
-if you have one.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>The pencil sharpener (Fig. 2), is also a very
-necessary help in whittling and it is very simple
-to make. A strip of thin wood 1<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub>&#8243;x7&#8243; forms
-the foundation. This is narrowed down at the
-handle end to <sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub>&#8243;. The curves may be marked
-on the outline, free hand, and in cutting you must
-be very careful to remember the grain of the
-wood. The curves at the ends should be cut
-from each side toward the middle of the end,
-gradually working into a cross-cut. The curves
-at the sides must be cut from the wider part toward
-the handle, using the point of the knife, and
-working with great care so as not to split the
-wood. A strip of sandpaper 1&#8243;x3&#8243; is glued on
-and the sharpener is complete.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p>
-
-<p>With these tools finished a boy is ready to begin
-some real whittling, and make other models
-which will be quite as useful, and very much more
-attractive.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6a" id="Page_6a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_022.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">KNIFE-STROP</p>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICAL WORKBENCH</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">A GOOD practical workbench may be made
-by any boy who can handle the simplest
-tools and procure a little suitable lumber.</p>
-
-<p>The lumber should be bought at a lumber yard,
-in the rough, which will cost a great deal less
-than finished boards.</p>
-
-<p>It will require 26 ft. of two-by-four pine boards,
-12 ft. of two-by-six&#8217;s, and 23 ft. of one-by-six&#8217;s.
-The two-by-four&#8217;s cost one and three-quarters
-cents a running foot, the two-by-six&#8217;s are two and
-a half cents, and the one-by-six&#8217;s, one and a half
-cents. The boards come in regular lengths, from
-ten feet up to sixteen, or in some cases, up to
-twenty-four feet long. It will be best to get a
-twenty-four foot one-by-six board if possible, a
-twelve foot two-by-six, one twelve foot and one
-fourteen foot two-by-four. This will make the
-total cost for boards one dollar and twelve cents.</p>
-
-<p>Aside from the pine boards for the bench itself
-it will require a piece of oak measuring three by
-four inches and thirty-four inches long, for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>
-bench vise; a screw and handle for the vise (costing
-thirty-five cents at any hardware store); a
-pound of four inch nails; and two square headed
-iron bolts, one half inch in diameter and four
-inches long, each fitted with two iron washers
-and one square nut.</p>
-
-<p>Saw off, first, from the twelve foot two-by-four,
-four pieces thirty-three inches long. These
-are the legs of the bench, and they are to stand
-with their broad four-inch faces toward the ends
-of the bench. Then cut in each one of these
-joints like those shown in Fig. 1. The sides in
-which the joints are cut face toward each other
-at the ends of the bench and into them is fitted the
-supporting framework.</p>
-
-<p>For the lower framework cut from the fourteen
-foot two-by-four two pieces forty-two inches
-long and four pieces nineteen inches long. Two
-of the nineteen-inch pieces are to be left as they
-are, but the other two and the two forty-two inch
-pieces should have joints cut at the ends like Fig.
-2. These joints, as well as the joints in the uprights,
-are cut with a saw, and the wood is split
-out with a chisel. Then these four jointed pieces
-are fitted together and glued or nailed to form a
-framework nineteen by forty-two inches. The
-four uprights are then fitted in place and nailed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>
-increasing the width of the ends to twenty-three
-inches. Then the other two nineteen-inch pieces
-are fitted into the top of the uprights across each
-end, and nailed in place. Four braces (Fig. 3)
-for the ends are made from two sixteen-inch
-pieces of the one-by-six stock. Each piece is first
-cut in two, lengthwise, with a rip saw. This
-makes four pieces twenty inches long by three
-inches wide. Mark the center joint of each end
-of each piece. Then measure on both sides, from
-each end, a distance of one and a half inches.
-Connect these points with the end points by a line
-and saw off the corners, leaving on each end a
-right-angled point. The braces are then nailed
-in place as shown in Fig. 4.</p>
-
-
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_026.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Practical Work-bench.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>This finishes the body part of the bench.
-Next, cut from the one-by-six board a piece fifty-six
-inches long. Fit it across the front of the
-frame, just even, or flush with the top, and projecting
-seven inches beyond the uprights at either
-end. Then nail in position.</p>
-
-<p>Cut from the twelve foot two-by-six board two
-pieces fifty-six inches long. Place one of them
-across the top of the bench at the extreme front,
-so that it is flush with the wide surface of the
-front board. Nail this to the end framework and
-nail the second piece in position just back of it.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>It is necessary for this much of the top to be
-very heavy, for this is where the heavy strain of
-the work will come. The remainder of the top
-is made of two strips of one-by-six wood. In
-order to make this even with the two front strips
-which are thicker it is necessary to put pieces
-underneath it at each end. For these cut a piece
-of one-by-six board twelve inches long and rip it
-in two. Place these strips along the end frame,
-then place the top boards on them and nail all in
-position. When this is done the whole top of the
-bench may be made partially smooth, if it is desired,
-with a jack plane. Then cut one more
-strip of one-by-six fifty-six inches long and nail
-across the back of the bench, allowing it to project
-three inches above the top.</p>
-
-<p>The vise, as it comes from the store, consists of
-a long, straight, square-headed screw about an
-inch in diameter, which ends in a round iron
-plate and a T-shaped pipe. The plate is loose but
-not removable. Through the T a long wooden
-handle fits. Beside this there is an elliptical plate
-holding a threaded pipe which the screw works
-in. To put it together, first make a piece from
-the remaining two-by-six like Fig. 5. This piece
-forms the inner side of the vise and fits <i>inside</i> of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>
-the front piece of the bench, just touching the
-under side of the top, and <i>outside</i> of the lower
-framework. Its edge should be four inches in
-from the front leg of the bench. Corresponding
-holes are made with a bit and brace in the front
-piece of the bench and counter-sunk a half inch.
-The two pieces are then bolted together, the heads
-of the bolts and the iron washer fitting down in
-the counter-sink, and the other washer being
-placed under the nut on the other side. The receptacle
-for the vise screw is fastened in position
-through the back of Fig. 5.</p>
-
-<p>Next, the piece of oak is prepared for the vise
-jaw. It is slanted off at the ends like Fig. 6, the
-outer edges rounded, a hole somewhat larger than
-the vise screw cut through as shown, and a joint
-cut through with chisel and hammer near the bottom.
-Into this joint fit Fig. 7, a piece of wood
-one by four inches and twelve inches long, which
-is intended to keep the jaws of the vise approximately
-even. It fits into the oak with a drive fit
-and has holes zigzagged or &#8220;staggered&#8221; across it
-into which a round peg three inches fits. By
-placing this peg in different holes the bottom
-opening of the vise may be adjusted to correspond
-with the desired top opening.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>The long screw of the vise is slipped through
-the hole made for it, and the plate is screwed in
-place.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p class="caption"><i>Work Bench Complete.</i></p>
-
-<p>This completes a bench which will prove a great
-help to the boy workman, and which takes
-scarcely more time in making than it has in describing.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">WORKBENCH ACCESSORIES</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">WHEN you have made yourself this fine, big
-workbench you will find out very soon
-that there are a number of workbench accessories
-which will make it much more convenient and
-desirable.</p>
-
-<p>The first thing that will be missed is a tool
-rack. With tools scattered all over the bench it
-is difficult to do good work. It means a waste
-of time and sometimes a waste of temper, while,
-if the tools are hanging right before one&#8217;s eyes
-in an orderly row, each one may be taken as it is
-needed, and replaced again when one is through,
-and the work will go on smoothly.</p>
-
-<p>A single pine board six inches wide, one inch
-thick and sixteen feet long will make all the accessories
-one can want. It is better to procure a
-finished board from the planing mill. It will cost
-three or four cents a running foot&mdash;a total cost at
-the most of sixty-four cents.</p>
-
-<p>For the tool rack cut from the board two fifty-six-inch
-lengths. Cut one of these in two lengthwise
-with a rip saw and plane the sawed edge smooth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
-and square with the face or wide, flat side of the
-board. With a pencil and scale mark the positions
-on the centers of the holes shown in Fig. 1.
-Then when the centers have been determined,
-drill them according to the sizes indicated, with a
-bit and brace. The first three holes at the left
-are to hold bits; the next two, chisel and gouge,
-and the others are for screw-drivers. These
-latter four, after the holes are drilled, are made
-open clear to the edge of the rack by sawing out
-a section from the front. This makes it possible
-to take the tools out without lifting them entirely
-out of the rack. From the right-hand end
-mark off a distance of twelve inches. Then,
-from the end to this line, cut two grooves as
-shown in the drawing. The forward one is
-rounded out with a gouge to hold a pencil while
-the back one is square and flat, cut with a chisel,
-to hold either a twelve-inch scale or a folded two-foot
-rule. In the front edge of this piece, about
-six inches from the right-hand end is driven a
-nail to hold the claw hammer.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of Work-bench Accessories.</p>
-
-<p>The fifty-six-inch length which was not ripped
-in two is fitted at right angles to the back of this
-rack, lapping over the edge and flush with the
-top. It is nailed in position and two supporting
-brackets like Fig. 2 are fitted under each end of
-the rack for strength. When this is all fastened
-together, the whole rack is set up on top of the
-back pieces of the workbench and held in place
-by two cleats, three inches by eight which are
-screwed to both the back piece of the bench and
-the back piece of the rack.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>Underneath the holes for the bits there should
-be two nails to hold the brace. The jack plane,
-block plane, and spoke shave may stand on the
-bench underneath the rack, and screws or nails
-at the end of the bench will hold rip saw, cross-cut
-saw, and dust brush.</p>
-
-<p>Next in usefulness is the bench block shown in
-Fig. 3. For this cut one piece of wood six inches
-by eleven, and two pieces, six inches by two
-inches. All these pieces must have the grain
-running in the longest direction. When these
-are trued up, fit them together as shown, and
-fasten with one-and-three-quarter-inch wood
-screws. After completing this the corners are
-cut off. The block fits over the front edge of the
-bench near the right-hand end and forms a brace
-when one wants to hold a piece of wood steady
-for sawing.</p>
-
-<p>Next comes the bench stop, Fig. 4. When one
-is planing a wide, flat board the vise is useless.
-So holes are drilled in pairs in the top of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>
-bench itself, and these bench stops are slipped in
-to form a buffer. A little piece of wood one by
-one by two is used, the grain of course running
-the long way. For half of the distance the stop
-remains square, while the other inch is rounded
-with a chisel to fit into the hole, which should be
-slightly more than an inch deep. Two of these
-stops will be needed.</p>
-
-<p>Every workbench needs a nail box. A good
-one may be made from two pieces three inches
-wide by fourteen inches long, which form the
-sides, two ends three inches by three, and a bottom
-piece five inches by fourteen. The side pieces
-are nailed to the end pieces, fitting over them, and
-the bottom fits over all. This makes the inside
-measurements three inches by twelve. Of course
-it is desirable to keep the different sizes of nails
-separate, so this is divided into as many compartments
-as are desired by partitions. These can be
-made from any old piece of wood about a half
-inch thick. They measure three by three inches
-and may be spaced however you like, except the
-one which is shown in Fig. 5. This is to be
-placed in the middle and forms a handle as well
-as a partition. Just as convenient, though not
-quite as necessary, is a miter box. It consists of
-two side pieces five inches by twelve, and one bottom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
-piece four inches by twelve. The side pieces
-fit down over the edges of the bottom piece and
-are nailed fast. There are no ends. When this
-much is done, take a forty-five degree triangle,
-and mark across the two top edges one perpendicular
-line, and one forty-five degree line in each
-direction, making them so that they do not overlap.
-Then saw straight down from these lines
-to the bottom piece. A miter box will prove
-itself a great convenience in sawing the corners
-of molding or anything which requires a fitted
-corner. The piece to be sawed is held firmly in
-the box and the saw guided through the slots.</p>
-
-<p>When a boy has made the bench and all these
-accessories, and has some tools, he will be
-equipped for big practical work.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A TURNING LATHE</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">MOST boys have a speaking acquaintance
-with a turning lathe. Some boys know
-how to use one with good results. But to use
-one and own it too&mdash;that is a joy which few boys
-experience.</p>
-
-<p>After all, though, a lathe is not such a formidable
-machine, and if a boy is quick at catching
-an idea and working it out he can make one
-for himself.</p>
-
-<p>Most of the material can be procured from
-some machine shop at practically no cost, and the
-parts that have to be bought outright will cost
-very little.</p>
-
-<p>The foundation may be an old sewing-machine
-stand and the lathe is run, just as a sewing machine
-is, by foot power. In almost any junk shop
-or second hand shop you will find an old out-of-date
-sewing machine for sale. New machines
-can be bought so cheaply nowadays that a second
-hand one costs next to nothing.</p>
-
-<p>When you have procured this you must take it
-to pieces. The wooden top part is fastened to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
-iron frame by screws from underneath. Take
-these out, and the top and drawer at the sides
-may be lifted right off. Then take out the screw
-at the right hand side of the machine part and
-slip off the upper belt wheel. This upper belt
-wheel, the belt, the lower belt wheel, and the iron
-framework of the machine are all that will be
-needed for the lathe, and the rest you may discard,
-or put away in the &#8220;handy&#8221; pile for some future
-construction. The lower belt wheel is of course
-fastened to the frame, so that does not need to be
-disturbed.</p>
-
-<p>Next get a piece of hickory or some other hard
-wood twelve inches wide, three feet long and one-and-one-half
-inches thick. Cut a long, narrow
-slot in this from one end as is shown in Fig. 1.
-Then fasten this piece to the top of the iron frame
-with the same screws that fastened the top of the
-machine on before. The solid end of the wood
-should project two inches beyond the right-hand
-end of the frame where the belt is, and the
-slotted end will of course extend somewhat beyond
-the frame at the left. This is what is called
-the &#8220;bed&#8221; of the lathe. Now bore the two holes
-which the belt goes through.</p>
-
-<p>When this is done, measure the hole in the
-center of the upper belt wheel, where the shaft<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
-went through. It will probably be one half inch
-in diameter. Then get a piece of gas pipe twelve
-inches long and of the same diameter, outside
-measurement, as the hole, so that the wheel may
-be put on it with a &#8220;drive fit.&#8221; This simply
-means that the wheel fits so tightly that it must
-be driven on and, once on, it will not turn. It
-should be driven on far enough so that when the
-groove for the belt is in line with the groove on
-the lower belt wheel, the pipe will project the half
-inch beyond the solid end of the bed.</p>
-
-<p>Now you must make two supports, or &#8220;head
-blocks&#8221; for this. Cut from two-inch-thick hard
-wood two pieces like Fig. 2. The square hole is
-for the gas pipe to go through and must have a
-bearing fitted into it. Of course it would be
-easier to cut just a round hole slightly larger than
-the pipe for it to turn in, but this bearing, with
-much turning, would wear loose. So a one-inch
-square hole is cut; the gas pipe, with a piece of
-newspaper wrapped around it, is held in the exact
-center of the hole, the head block standing upright;
-and melted Babbitt metal is poured down
-through the hole in the top of the block. To do
-this pieces of cardboard should be fitted over the
-pipe and tacked to either side of the block, so
-that the space inside is like a mold. The metal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>
-which remains in the top hole forms a key to hold
-it. The Babbitt metal may be bought at a hardware
-store in small bars and melted in a kettle in
-the fire. It hardens quickly and when hard, the
-pipe may be removed, the paper taken off and you
-will have a permanent, durable bearing.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_041.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Turning Lathe.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>Slip one of these head blocks on the pipe from
-each end, with an iron washer on each side of
-each block. The right hand block should be
-&#8220;flush&#8221; with the end of the bed, the pipe projecting
-a half inch beyond it. The other block
-should be spaced two inches back from the ends
-of the slot in the bed. The blocks are fastened
-to the bed with long wood screws which come up
-through the bed from underneath, and they are
-held in position on the gas pipe by making &#8220;prick
-punch&#8221; holes through the pipe close to the washers
-and using either &#8220;cotter pins&#8221; or bent wire
-through these. Then the end of the pipe, which
-projects over the slot should be filed so that it has
-four points, or teeth. This completes the head
-of the lathe, and is much the most complicated
-part.</p>
-
-<p>The rest of the lathe consists of a &#8220;tail block&#8221;
-and a tool rest, both of which are adjustable to
-any position desired. Fig. 3 shows the tail block.
-Like the head blocks, it is made of two-inch thick<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>
-stock. The bottom of it is cut to slide back and
-forth in the slot. Just underneath it, on the
-under side of the bed, is a piece of wood four
-inches by two inches and one-inch thick which is
-fastened to the tail block by a screw through the
-center and which clamps the block in position at
-any required distance. At the point marked &#8220;P&#8221;
-a &#8220;lag&#8221; screw, which is simply a wood screw with
-a sharp point and a large flat head, is screwed
-through the block. The piece of wood to be
-turned is held in place by this lag screw and the
-filed teeth on the gas pipe.</p>
-
-<p>The pieces of the tool rest are shown in Fig. 4
-and Fig. 5. Fig. 6 shows it as it looks when it
-is put together in place on the bed of the lathe.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 4 shows the tool rest itself&mdash;that is, the
-part upon which the chisel or gouge is steadied
-for cutting. This is fastened upright upon the
-end of Fig. 5, which is a standard which extends
-across the bed and is clamped in place, as the tail
-block is, to a block underneath, except that, instead
-of being screwed, it is fastened with a three-eighth
-inch bolt and nut.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 7 shows the whole lathe &#8220;assembled,&#8221; or
-put together with each part marked according to
-its figure numbers so that you can see just how it
-goes.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_044.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Fig. 7</p>
-
-<p>All the material it has required has been:</p>
-
-<blockquote>
-<p>One old sewing machine.<br />
-About fifty cents&#8217; worth of hard wood.<br />
-One three-inch lag screw.<br />
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>One three-eighths-inch bolt five inches long, with nut and washer.<br />
-Four iron washers for gas pipe.<br />
-One foot of gas pipe.<br />
-Seven three-inch wood screws.<br />
-A few cents&#8217; worth of Babbitt metal.</p></blockquote>
-
-<p>The result is a good practical lathe on which
-anything up to eight inches in diameter and
-twenty-one inches long may be turned; and I
-think you&#8217;ll all agree that it was well worth the
-making.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A TOY TRAIN</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">CLEAR the track there! Push the crib
-over in the corner. Pick up those blocks.
-Shove the doll&#8217;s house and blackboard out of the
-way. Hurry and put the old red candy lantern
-out of sight. We don&#8217;t want any danger signals
-here. The Twentieth Century Limited&mdash;the
-Fast Special of the play room&mdash;is coming.</p>
-
-<p>The construction of the Twentieth Century
-Limited follows close upon <i>the making of whittling
-tools</i>. A little train it is, just an engine,
-coal car, baggage car, and one passenger coach,
-but of course there may be any number of additional
-cars coupled on, provided the train proves
-popular and the nursery traffic is heavy. The
-train is made from cigar boxes. The floor of the
-engine is made from a flat piece of wood, two
-inches wide by four and one-half inches long, cut
-perfectly true and then pointed at one end (Fig.
-1). Then the cab is made. Fig. 2 shows the
-front of it&mdash;a piece of wood measuring two inches
-by one and three-quarters, and having two little
-holes three-eighths of an inch square cut for windows.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
-The side pieces are an inch and a quarter
-by two inches, cut in the shape of Fig. 3, and each
-has one little window. The roof is an oblong
-piece two inches by one and a half. When the
-whole cab has been nailed together, it is placed in
-position on the floor of the engine, about a quarter
-of an inch from the rear end, and nailed there.
-For the boiler you can use one of mother&#8217;s basting
-thread spools. Chip off the ends, making
-them even with the part where the thread was
-wound, and then nail it to the floor from underneath.
-A spot on the upper side of the boiler is
-smoothed off, and a tiny spool is glued on for a
-smoke stack. The forward wheels are made
-from circular pieces an inch in diameter, and the
-&#8220;drivers&#8221; from pieces an inch and a half in diameter.
-Then there are bearings for the wheels,
-like Fig. 4, those for the smaller wheels being an
-inch long, and those for the larger wheels three-quarters
-of an inch in length. They are glued
-to each side of the floor piece and the axles, made
-from lollypop sticks, are slipped through. These
-are cut three inches long, which allows plenty of
-room for the wheels to turn, and for a little nail
-to be put through like a cotter pin, to hold them
-on.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_048.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Toy Train.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Toy Train.</p>
-
-<p>The coal car floor measures two inches square,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
-the sides two inches by one, and the ends one and
-three-quarters by one. These are nailed together
-to form a little box, and four wheels and bearings
-like the forward ones on the engine are made.
-The couplings are made from little round brass
-hooks, the one on the forward end of each car being
-horizontal, and the one in the rear end perpendicular.</p>
-
-<p>The baggage car is a triumph of whittling, for
-it has a door that will slide back and forth just
-like a real one. The bottom and top of the car
-are oblong pieces of wood two inches by four and
-a half, and the end pieces measure two by two
-and a quarter inches. The sides are made like
-Fig. 5, with an opening an inch and a quarter
-square for a doorway. On the inside of the side
-pieces, extending to within a half inch of each
-end, and starting about an eighth of an inch from
-the top a groove is cut, the depth of the groove
-being about a quarter of an inch. The door itself
-is one and thirteen-sixteenths inches high by
-two inches wide, and has two very small, flat-headed,
-wood screws, screwed in near the top at
-an angle, so that the heads rest in this groove,
-and slide back and forth. Above the door is a
-strip of wood an eighth of an inch wide, and outside
-of this another strip a quarter of an inch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>
-wide, both of which are nailed in position, and
-keep the door from slipping out of the groove.
-Another screw forms a handle for the door, and
-when the car is put together it is not at all apparent
-how the door slides. Fig. 6 is a section
-cut through the side, above the doorway, and
-shows the groove and how the strips are put on.</p>
-
-<p>For the passenger car the floor is made first&mdash;like
-Fig. 7&mdash;the car floor itself measuring two
-inches by four and one-half, with a projection one
-inch by five-eighths at each end for a platform.
-The sides of the car (Fig. 8), are two inches by
-four and a half, with three holes one inch wide by
-three-quarters high for Pullman windows. The
-ends of the car are like Fig. 9. They are slipped
-over the platforms, the space one and one quarter
-inch by a half inch forming a doorway and
-the lower ends extending below the platform to
-form the side of the steps. The end of the platform
-is a piece measuring one inch by two inches,
-and is nailed in position so that the lower edge
-of it is even with the lower edge of the side pieces,
-the remainder of it extending above the platform
-for a railing. There are two steps on each side
-at each end&mdash;eight steps in all. The bottom ones
-measure a quarter of an inch wide and three-quarters
-of an inch long, while the upper ones are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>
-the same width, but only a half inch long, for they
-have to fit in between the ends of the car, and the
-ends of the platform. The roof of the car is like
-Fig. 10&mdash;a piece two inches by six and one-half
-inches with rounded ends, extending well over
-the platforms. Both the passenger and baggage
-cars have wheels exactly like the coal car.
-When these are done the train is coupled, and
-away she speeds. &#8220;Clear the track there! The
-Twentieth Century Limited is just pulling into
-Chicago, and she has made the trip from New
-York in eighteen hours.&#8221;</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">OUT-DOOR TOYS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THIS set of whittled outdoor toys ought to
-please almost any boy. With kite and fish
-line time coming soon and the wind blowing a
-gale for your weather vane, and the other fellows
-out ready to play &#8220;cat&#8221;&mdash;well, let&#8217;s see how to
-make all these toys.</p>
-
-<p>The kite stick in Fig. 1 is made from a piece of
-pine wood eight inches long, and, roughly cut
-out, about three-quarters of an inch square.
-This is smoothed down to five-eighths of an inch,
-and then you start in to make it round. First
-the four corners of the square are trimmed off
-evenly for the full length, making it an eight-sided
-stick, and then these corners are again
-trimmed, until finally the stick is round enough to
-be sandpapered smooth. It is better to draw a
-five-eighth inch circle on each end of the stick before
-you trim it down, so that you can see whether
-you are making a true round. When the line for
-the bevel is marked around one-eighth of an inch
-from the ends, the bevel is cut, the notch is cut<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
-around the middle, and the stick is ready to tie
-your kite string to.</p>
-
-<p>For the reel in Fig. 2 and also the weather vane
-in Fig. 7, it is better to select a piece of wood
-which is already &#8220;dressed&#8221;&mdash;that is, finished
-smooth to the thickness you require, because it is
-hard to make a broad surface true with a jack
-knife. Cigar boxes are three-sixteenths of an
-inch thick, and a piece of one will make a good,
-stout reel. In making all of these toys, the pattern
-should be drawn on the wood as far as possible
-with pencil, scale, and straight edge, before
-any cutting is done. The reel should be cut first
-into an oblong, two and a quarter inches by four
-and a quarter, then the corners are rounded so
-that the line will not catch on them, and lastly
-the &#8220;recessed edge&#8221; where the line is to be wound
-is made, cutting from each end of the opening toward
-the center, and gradually working it down
-even.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38a" id="Page_38a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_056.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">(A) WHITTLED WEATHER VANE. (B) KITE STICK; &#8220;CAT&#8221;; REEL FOR
-FISH LINE. (C) &#8220;CAT&#8221; STICK.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_058.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Kite Stick, Reel, &#8220;Cat,&#8221; &#8220;Cat&#8221; Stick, and
-Weather Vane.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_059.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Weather Vane.</p>
-
-<p>There are not many boys who don&#8217;t know how
-to play &#8220;cat.&#8221; It requires a good deal of skill,
-and if you don&#8217;t break anybody&#8217;s window or put
-out anybody&#8217;s eye, it&#8217;s a lot of fun. It requires
-two boys to play this game. You lay the cat
-down flat&mdash;as in Fig. 3&mdash;and, with the stick (Fig.
-4), held by the octagonal end, hit the cat sharply<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
-on one end, and as it flies up bat it forward. It
-is up to the other fellow to catch it, and if he does,
-it counts you out, and gives him a turn. But if
-he doesn&#8217;t catch it, you measure with the stick,
-end over end from where you stand to where the
-cat has fallen, and that counts so many points for
-you. Then the other fellow has another chance
-to count you out by throwing the cat from where
-it fell and trying to hit your stick. If it falls
-short or goes beyond, you again measure the distance
-with your stick, and that too counts in your
-favor.</p>
-
-<p>The cat is made from a piece of pine four
-inches long and an inch square. The center section
-is marked off and then a line is drawn exactly
-across the middle of each end&mdash;not diagonally,
-but straight up and down. The sides are
-slanted down to this line, like a wedge, and then
-the other two sides are slanted to the middle point
-at each end. The wood for the stick is twelve
-inches long and five-eighths of an inch square, and
-is worked down just as the kite stick was, except
-that the handle is left eight sided, while the rest
-is made round. The octagon and circle which
-are shown with parallel diagonal lines on them
-are &#8220;cross sections&#8221; and show what the stick<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
-would look like if it were cut straight through at
-that point.</p>
-
-<p>The weather vane is the hardest toy to make.
-Fig. 5 shows three views of one piece of the wheel&mdash;a
-top view, a front view, and an end view,&mdash;just
-as though you looked at the piece in front and
-then squarely at the top, and then turned it
-around and looked at the end. A piece of wood
-three-quarters of an inch square by five inches
-long is used for this, and two of them are made
-and fitted together&mdash;making a wheel with four
-arms. It is better to cut the section for the joint
-first, for the wood is less apt to split before it has
-been weakened by any other cutting. This is a
-similar cutting to that in the reel, except that the
-grain lies in the opposite direction, and the cutting
-should be done from the center of the opening
-toward each end. Then opposite corners are
-slanted down so that the ends of the arms are
-thin and aslant to catch the wind, as the end view
-shows. The dotted lines are the edges which are
-not visible. After the two pieces are fitted together
-a two-inch nail is driven through both
-and into the end of Fig. 6, which is not beveled.
-It should be turned around until it works loosely
-and will turn easily in the wind.</p>
-
-<p>The stick in Fig. 6 is seven and three-eighths<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>
-inches long by a half inch square. After the
-section three-quarters of an inch long, where the
-nail hole is shown, and which remains square, is
-marked off, the rest of the stick is made eight
-sided. Then the eight-inch bevel shown on the
-end is cut, and, for a distance of two and a half
-inches from that end, a V-shaped groove is cut
-on two opposite sides. This end of the stick is to
-slide into the opening in the end of the wing
-(Fig. 7). Another two-inch nail joins this piece
-to the upright stick (Fig. 8) and forms a pivot
-for it to swing around on. The wing is a flat
-piece six and a half inches long by two and a
-half wide. The curves are laid out with a compass
-(R. in the measurements denotes radius)
-and the 2<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>&#8243;-opening is made as shown in one
-end. The little cross-section shows how it is cut
-to a pointed edge which slides into the groove in
-Fig. 6.</p>
-
-<p>The upright stick is nine inches long by three-quarters
-of an inch square, and is worked down
-similarly to the other sticks, except that the end
-which is round is tapered from three-quarters to
-one-half inch. The &#8220;break&#8221; in the drawing simply
-means that it is longer than is actually shown.
-When the windmill is fitted together and put out
-where it will catch the wind, a boy will find that
-it was well worth making.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DESK SET</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">A DESK set is a great addition to a boy&#8217;s
-desk. If he has a pen tray he knows where
-his pencils and pens are to be found without
-rummaging through a tangled mess of top
-strings and marble bags and nails. If he puts
-away on the bill file that <i>I Owe You</i> that Billy
-Smith gave him for a pair of rabbits, it won&#8217;t be
-all crumpled up and beyond identification when
-Billy gets his next month&#8217;s allowance. When
-you come to think of it, a desk set has a great
-many advantages&mdash;and then, there&#8217;s the fun of
-making it.</p>
-
-<p>The desk set which is shown in the picture
-comprises five pieces&mdash;an ink well stand, a bill
-file, a pen tray, an envelope opener, and a book
-rack. It is all, with the exception of the envelope
-opener, made of one-eighth-inch basswood.</p>
-
-<p>For the ink well stand (Fig. 1) use a piece of
-wood, four inches square. The two-and-a-half-inch
-opening&mdash;which is the size of the average
-glass ink well&mdash;should be cut first, before the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
-corners are weakened by cutting out the half-inch
-rounds. After this is done, cut the corners,
-and last, the eight-inch bevel. Fig. 2 shows
-one of the feet of the ink well. It is shown, by
-dotted lines, in position in Fig. 1. The four feet
-are glued to the bottom of Fig. 1 and the inside
-corners project inside the opening, making four
-half-inch squares on which the ink well may rest.
-The feet are made from pieces of wood one and
-seven-eighths inches square, cut in the shape
-shown, and ornamented with a little design in
-&#8220;chip&#8221; carving. This chip carving is ordinarily
-done with what is called a skew chisel&mdash;that is,
-a chisel which is not square at the end, but which
-has one point an eighth of an inch or more longer
-than the other, so that when it is put into the
-wood, one end of the cut will be deep while the
-other is barely cut out at all. However, it may
-be done with a jack knife, if you are very careful.
-In the &#8220;motif&#8221; shown in Fig. 2, the points where
-the three lines from adjoining corners meet are
-where the deepest part of the cuts should be.
-This is done with the knife held point down and
-the thumb on the end of the handle. Then, with
-the knife still in the same position in the hand,
-you chip out the wood with a sliding cut toward
-you, slanting it down to the depth of the cut. It
-is a little difficult to describe this without seeing
-it done, but if you look at the patterns and the
-photographs, and experiment a little on a piece
-of wood, you will find it easy.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46a" id="Page_46a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_066.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">(A) FILE. (B) INK WELL. (C) PEN TRAY.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_068.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of an Ink Well Stand, a Bill File and a Pen Tray.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Pen Tray, an Envelope Opener and a Book Rack.</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 show the bill file. Fig. 3 is
-made from a three and a quarter-inch square,
-cut similarly to the foot of the ink well, and with
-the same motif carved on each corner. It
-should be remembered in cutting the recessed
-edges that the sides running <i>with</i> the grain must
-be cut <i>from</i> each end, and the cross-cut sides cut
-<i>toward</i> each end. Fig. 4 is cut like Fig. 1, except
-that there is no opening in it. It is then
-glued to the top of Fig. 3, and a three-inch nail
-is driven up through the center.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 5 shows one side of the pen tray. It is
-made from a piece of wood nine inches long at the
-bottom, tapered to seven and three-eighths inches
-at the top, and one and seven-eighth inches wide.
-The motif for the carving is made by putting together
-two of the squares shown in Fig. 2 and
-then repeating this again and again. It makes a
-very pretty and effective decoration. Fig. 6 is
-one of the end pieces, and is decorated in the
-same way. Fig. 7 is a cross-section showing the
-construction of the pen tray. For this you
-should first make two oblongs, seven and three-eighth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
-inches long, one of them being one and
-three-eighths, and the other, one and one-half
-inches wide. These are fastened together at
-right angles, the long one topping over the
-shorter, with tiny nails. Then a piece measuring
-two inches by one and one-quarter is nailed
-to each end, to hold the tray firm. Next, the top
-edge all around is beveled&mdash;the side edges, so
-that the sides (Fig. 5) may be fitted on straight
-up and down, and the ends, at such an angle that
-they will not interfere in putting on the end pieces
-(Fig. 6). Then the sides and ends are glued in
-position, and the tray is finished.</p>
-
-<p>For the envelope opener in Fig. 8, a piece of
-gumwood five and a half inches long by a half
-inch square is used. For two and a half inches
-from the end it is reduced to an octagonal
-shape. Then the notches are cut, and the end
-of the handle&mdash;four sides only, not the entire
-eight&mdash;beveled. Then the blade is cut, curving
-down from the handle, and reducing the
-blade to an even thickness of an eighth of an
-inch. When this is quite even the end is pointed,
-and the entire outside edge of the blade is beveled
-down from both sides, to a cutting edge.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50a" id="Page_50a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_072.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">BOOK RACK</p>
-
-<p>The base of the book rack (Figs. 9 and 10), is
-made from two pieces of wood measuring four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
-inches by nine, which are cut as shown, to fit and
-slide within each other. It measures thirteen
-inches, closed, and sixteen inches, open. A good
-way to fasten the pieces together so that they
-will slide easily and yet be firm, is with strips
-of thin sheet brass, which can be bought very
-cheaply. A strip three-quarters of an inch wide
-is passed around the rack at D with both pieces
-in position, lapped and fastened to D. Another
-similar piece is passed around at C and fastened
-to C. Then the ends (Fig. 11) are made. This
-requires two pieces four inches wide by four and
-a half long, with the grain running up and down.
-The top is made a little prettier by a semi-circular
-curve and a reverse quarter circle at each side of
-it. The deep carving is a trifle more elaborate
-than on the other things, and must be done carefully
-where the cuts all meet at the bottom.</p>
-
-<p>After measuring and finding the position of the
-points &#8220;a&#8221; and &#8220;b&#8221; you should use these as centers
-from which to make the curves which determine
-the outline of your design. The cutting is
-done exactly as you did before. When these are
-finished they should be fastened on top of the
-base, at either end, with little brass hinges on the
-inside. A strip of wood four inches long by
-three-quarters of an inch wide is placed at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
-lower edge of the end pieces, on the outside, for
-added strength, and the screws fastening the
-hinges will hold it in place.</p>
-
-<p>This completes the actual making of the desk
-set. It may be sandpapered, or it may be varnished,
-or, if you are fortunate enough to have a
-mission desk, it may be stained to match. In any
-case it is worth having.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">WILD ANIMALS YOU CAN MAKE</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">WITH a circus folder or animal book for a
-copy, a few old cigar boxes, and a jack
-knife, a very lively and life-like menagerie can
-be made.</p>
-
-<p>Cut the cigar boxes apart, and sandpaper the
-pieces very smooth. Then take a pencil and
-sketch as well as you can the animals in the pictures&mdash;at
-least the bodies of them, for the legs
-are to be attached afterward, so that they can
-stand and &#8220;do things.&#8221;</p>
-
-<p>The cutting must be done very, very carefully,
-for the outlines make so many different angles
-with the grain of the wood. It is not in the least
-like straight cutting with the grain, or even
-straight cross-cutting, and the wood has an irritating
-habit of splitting off some vital part of
-the animal&#8217;s anatomy.</p>
-
-<p>It is impossible to make the tails out of wood,
-so they are made of heavy string, glued in place.
-For the monkey, you can make a tail of wire, so
-that he can swing by it.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Patterns of Hippo and Tiger.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54a" id="Page_54a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_078.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS<br />
-Giraffe, Camel</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_080.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Patterns of Monkey and Giraffe.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_081.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Patterns of Bear and Lion.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56a" id="Page_56a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">WHITTLED WILD ANIMALS<br />
-Bear, Lion, &#8220;Darwin&#8221;</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>Make the legs of the animals separately and
-fasten them on to the bodies with tiny nails.
-Place the two fore legs or two hind legs in position
-on either side of the body piece, and drive
-through them a short wire nail, a very little
-longer than is necessary to go through the three
-thicknesses of wood. Then rest the head of the
-nail on a piece of iron, and hammer the point,
-forming a little rivet to pivot the legs. The feet
-must also be made separately, and fastened on in
-the same way, so that, whatever position the legs
-are in, the feet will remain level.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A SET OF MISSION FURNITURE</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">A VERY attractive set of furniture suitable
-for a doll&#8217;s nursery, may be whittled from
-pieces of old cigar boxes. It consists of four
-pieces&mdash;a &#8220;Craftsman&#8221; bed, a chair, a table, and
-a chest of drawers.</p>
-
-<p>For the head of the bed take a piece of wood
-four inches square, and, placing it with the grain
-of the wood running up and down, mark it out
-like Fig. 1. As a general rule, the grain of the
-wood should lie with the longest dimension, but
-in all the upright pieces of this set it must run up
-and down. Outline first the &#8220;recessed edge,&#8221;
-which forms the legs of the bed, scoring it lightly
-with the point of the knife. Then cutting a little
-bit out at a time, and working from the center
-toward each end, bring it down to the line. The
-two openings, an eighth of an inch by a half inch,
-for the joints, must be cut with the point of the
-knife&mdash;the ends first, then the sides, and lastly
-the wood is chipped out, and the opening is
-evened up. The foot of the bed is identical with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>
-the head except that is three inches high instead
-of four.</p>
-
-<p>Next come the side pieces&mdash;two pieces seven
-inches long and one inch wide, cut like Fig. 2.
-The half-inch ends slide through the openings in
-the head and foot of the bed, and fasten with little
-wedge-shaped pegs like Fig. 5. Inside each
-of these side pieces, and &#8220;flush&#8221; with the bottom
-edge, glue a strip cut like Fig. 3, and fit in five
-little slats three and three-eighths inches long by
-a half inch wide (Fig. 4). Then, to complete it
-and make it look as much like a Craftsman bed as
-possible, paste on the head a panel of light brown
-wrapping paper, on which are four little conventional
-kittens, painted in Van Dyke brown.</p>
-
-<p>The top of the table (Fig. 6) is a piece four
-inches square. The end pieces (Fig. 7) are cut
-similarly to the head and foot of the bed, with the
-same recessed edge and the same openings, varying
-only in the outside dimensions. The sides
-too (Fig. 8), are similar to the sides of the bed,
-except that they are of course, much shorter.
-Slip them through the openings in the end pieces,
-fasten them with four little pegs, glue the top on,
-and the table is done.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60a" id="Page_60a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">DOLLS&#8217; CHAIR AND TABLE, WHITTLED IN MISSION STYLE</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a &#8220;Craftsman&#8221; Bed, a Table and a Chair.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Chair and a Chest of Drawers.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>The chair is built on the same general lines as
-the table and bed. The chair back (Fig. 9) measures
-two and a quarter inches wide by three and
-one-half inches high, while the front upright
-piece is exactly similar but only an inch and one-half
-high&mdash;just high enough for dolly to swing
-her feet comfortably. When these and the side
-pieces (Fig. 10) are done and put together, glue
-on a piece one and five-eighths inches by two and
-a quarter (Fig. 11) for the seat.</p>
-
-<p>The construction of the chest of drawers is a
-little more elaborate. Make first two side pieces
-like Fig 12. They measure two and a quarter
-inches wide by three and one-half high, and have
-a recessed edge a quarter of an inch deep at the
-bottom to form feet, and three openings in each
-side for the partitions between the drawers.
-There are one deep drawer at the top, and two
-shallower ones below it. Make three pieces like
-Fig. 13, four inches long by one and three-quarters
-wide. The little square and piece for the
-joint are not exactly in the middle, and the longer
-space goes toward the back, but is intended to
-leave a little open space of a half inch at the back.</p>
-
-<p>Next make three pieces for the fronts of the
-drawers (Fig. 14), two of them five-eighths of
-an inch wide, and one measuring an inch and a
-quarter. In each of these make two holes for the
-knobs. The drawers themselves (Fig. 15) are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>
-made of light weight pasteboard. The bottom
-dimensions remain the same of course for all&mdash;two
-and three-quarter inches by two&mdash;but the
-depths of the sides must be one and one-quarter
-inches for the wider, and five-eighths of an inch
-for the narrower ones. When these are cut out,
-fold them on the dotted lines to form a box, with
-the sides which lap over each other at the front.
-The knobs of the drawers are made of large
-beads. Put a piece of string through each bead,
-and then push the two ends of string through the
-hole in the front of the drawer, and through a
-corresponding hole in the pasteboard drawer
-itself. Then tie the two ends of string from the
-right-hand knob to the two pieces from the left-hand
-knob in a firm square knot, accomplishing
-the triple purpose of holding the knobs in position,
-fastening the front piece on to the drawer,
-and holding the drawer in shape. An oblong
-piece of wood two and a quarter inches by three
-and a quarter (Fig. 16) makes the top, and another
-four inches by three and a quarter forms
-the back.</p>
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64a" id="Page_64a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_094a.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">DOLLS&#8217; WHITTLED CHEST OF DRAWERS</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_094b.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">WHITTLED DOLLS&#8217; BED</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">TOYS THAT HIDE IN THE WOOD BOX</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THE farm barn with its loft hung with cobwebs
-and the great hay mows, and the farm
-wagons to scramble out and in is surely a delight
-to the country boy; but if one corner of the barn
-has a big pile of clean, smooth blocks and sticks
-of kindling wood, the charm of the place will be
-redoubled.</p>
-
-<p>A glance, only, at a heap of ordinary, everyday
-kindling wood will suggest all sorts of plays
-to the resourceful boy. With the aid of a few
-simple tools, a hammer, a light saw, and some
-wire nails, the pieces of wood may be changed
-into crude, but realistic toys that will give the
-little folks quite as much pleasure as any to be
-found in a toy shop.</p>
-
-<p>Look, first, at the building possibilities of a
-pile of kindling wood. The long, straight sticks
-may be balanced on the barn floor to represent
-a regiment of soldiers. With penciled faces,
-and soldier caps they make very fine little men;
-and if there are two opposing armies, a most exciting
-sham battle may be carried on with horse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>
-chestnuts and green apples for ammunition, and
-a prize for the general whose kindling-wood
-forces stand up the longest.</p>
-
-<p>A miniature pig pen may be built by piling up
-kindling-wood sticks in log-cabin fashion. The
-sticks selected for the pen should be, as nearly
-as possible, of the same length. Two sticks
-should be laid parallel. These are then connected
-by laying other sticks across their ends.
-The boy should continue building in this manner
-until the pig pen is of a good height. A
-very fine, fat pig may be made of a small cucumber,
-having twigs stuck into his body for legs,
-one of the vine tendrils for a curly tail and melon
-seeds for ears.</p>
-
-<p>A log house is constructed by building a foundation
-similar to the pig pen. The roof is
-formed by laying a row of sticks, quite close together,
-across the top. A family of little clothes
-pin dolls may live most comfortably in a kindling
-wood house.</p>
-
-<p>In front of the house there should be a strong,
-rail fence to protect the inmates from any Indians
-who may come in while the builder is away.
-To build a Virginia rail fence, two sticks of
-kindling wood should be crossed in the shape of
-a letter V. A third stick is added at a similar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>
-angle with the second stick. This form of building
-is continued until the fence is of the required
-length. Going back to the first stick, a second
-layer of sticks is started on top of the first layer;
-and the fence may be built as high as one wishes
-by the addition of a third and a fourth layer.</p>
-
-<p>There are ever so many playthings that can
-be built from the wood found in the wood pile.
-A boy who is clever with his jack knife will be
-able to make a set of ten pins from sticks of
-kindling wood by carving little round heads at
-the ends of the sticks. Very straight bits of
-wood which will balance well should be chosen
-for the ten pins. He can also carve quaint
-wooden dolls for the little sister.</p>
-
-<p>The accompanying illustration shows a toy
-barnyard that was made by a group of children.
-Their only tools were a couple of hammers, a toy
-saw, some nails and a jack knife. The only materials
-used were found in the wood pile in the
-wood-shed.</p>
-
-<p>The barnyard fence is constructed from lath.
-Long strips are used for the bars of the fence.
-The fence posts are bits of lath, also, carved in
-six-inch lengths, pointed at the top with a knife,
-and nailed to the longer strips. Bits of leather
-are tacked in place for the gate hinges. Bits of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>
-kindling wood split into narrow sections are
-nailed together for the pig pen and the cow shed.
-Some old wooden boxes are used for the farm
-wagon and the wheelbarrow, the curved edges of
-the wheelbarrow being made with a jack knife.
-The box cover is used as wheel material, two
-circles being cut out of the soft wood with a jack
-knife and fastened to the body of the wagon with
-dowel sticks. Another box is mounted on a
-standard of lath and forms a very realistic pigeon
-house. The chicken coops are little wood
-squares nailed together at an angle of 90� with
-bits of lath fastened across the front. With the
-addition of a rude barn made from scraps of
-wood, a dog house&mdash;which is only a small edition
-of the barn&mdash;and a cattle shed, the farmyard
-is complete&mdash;a crude but unfailing source of
-amusement for many rainy days.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68a" id="Page_68a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_100.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">TOY BARNYARD MADE OF KINDLING WOOD</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_102.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Sled, a Chicken Coop and a Table.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Cart.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>One of the simplest toys to make of wood basket
-scraps is a little play sled. For this you will
-need three oblong pieces of wood&mdash;one of them
-(Fig. 1) measuring four inches wide by seven
-inches long, and the other two (Fig. 2) measuring
-two and a half inches wide by nine and one-half
-inches long. Some pieces of an old packing
-box about a half inch thick will do very nicely for
-these. Mark the outlines first with a pencil; then
-cut them out with the saw, and &#8220;true them up&#8221;
-with a knife&mdash;that is, take off the little roughnesses
-that the saw has left, and make the edges
-perfectly straight and square. Next the two long
-side pieces which you have made must be shaped.
-Measure off on the lower edge (with the piece
-standing in position as though it were on the
-sled), two inches from the front end. Connect
-this by a line with the upper front corner, and
-cut it. Then round off the lower end of this cut
-so that it curves into the bottom. Now make a
-nail hole near the front end of each side piece for
-a string to go through, nail the side pieces to the
-other oblong which you made for the top, and the
-little sled is done.</p>
-
-<p>Another very simple toy to make of this material
-is a little chicken coop. This is made of
-one square piece of wood and another piece which
-is almost square. The first piece (Fig. 3) measures
-seven inches each way, and the other one
-(Fig. 4) measures seven inches in one direction,
-and in the other direction seven inches less the
-thickness of the wood. This is because one piece
-laps over the end of the other, and the end of the
-first piece forms part of the other side of the
-coop. When these pieces are cut and made perfectly
-square and true, lap the longer piece over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>
-the end of the shorter so that it will be just even
-with the surface, and nail in position. For the
-slats (Fig. 5) cut some strips an inch wide and
-thinner than the sides of the coop. Lath is good
-if you have it. Two of these strips are ten inches
-long, two are seven inches, and two are four
-inches. The longest ones are nailed across the
-open sides of the coop, one on each side, an inch
-above the bottom. The middle-sized ones are
-nailed two inches above these, and the shortest
-ones two inches higher. Then the ends of these
-strips are sawed off almost even with the coop.</p>
-
-<p>A little table may be made from one block of
-wood six inches square, and four cylinders three
-and a half inches long. For the table top (Fig.
-6) select a piece of wood about an inch thick.
-Make this true, and smooth the top with sandpaper.
-Then mark on the under side a square
-which is four inches on a side, and exactly an
-inch away from each side of the table top. At
-the corner of this inside square are to be made the
-holes for the table legs. For these holes you will
-have to use a bit and brace, and make the holes
-one inch in diameter and a half inch deep. If
-you haven&#8217;t a bit and brace, you can, with a little
-more trouble, whittle out the holes. For the
-table legs (Fig. 7) take four pieces of wood one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>
-inch square and three and one-half inches long.
-By whittling off each long corner edge you can
-make these from square prisms into octagonal, or
-eight-sided prisms. Then keep shaving off these
-corner-edges until the prisms are so many-sided
-that they are practically round. Smooth them
-with sandpaper, and glue in place in the holes in
-the under side of the table top.</p>
-
-<p>A strong little cart may be made almost as
-easily as these other wood toys. Cut from
-some pieces of wood three quarters of an inch
-thick, two side pieces (Fig. 8) measuring three
-inches by ten inches, two end pieces (Fig.
-9) three inches by five inches, and one bottom
-piece (Fig. 10) five inches by eleven and a half
-inches. In the center of one of the end pieces
-make a nail hole for the string to go through.
-Nail the sides and ends together, lapping the end
-pieces over the ends of the side pieces. Then
-nail the bottom piece on. For the shafts of the
-wheels (Fig. 11) take two pieces of wood nine
-inches long and one inch square. For a space
-of two inches in from each end make the shafts
-cylindrical just as you did the table legs, leaving
-the center portion, which is five inches long,
-square. Nail these shafts to the bottom of the
-cart at points two and a half inches from each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>
-end. Next cut from 1 inch-thick wood four
-wheels (Fig. 12), three and a half inches in diameter.
-These may be cut out roughly with a saw,
-and worked down to the marked line with the
-knife. Then cut in the center of each of these
-wheels a hole about one and one-sixteenth inches
-in diameter&mdash;enough larger than the shaft so that
-the wheels will turn easily. Slip the wheels in
-place, and drive into the shaft from opposite sides,
-outside of each wheel, two small finishing nails.
-These are to keep the wheels in place, and must
-be driven in carefully so as not to split the shafts.</p>
-
-<p>These are all attractive wood basket toys to
-make, and besides this, each one of them may be
-adapted, by enlarging, for some real use. The
-sled, with the addition of iron strips for runners,
-may be really used; or by using two sleds
-and an extra board fastened to both so that
-they will turn, it may be made into a &#8220;bob-sled&#8221;
-or &#8220;double.&#8221; The chicken coop, enlarged, will
-comfortably accommodate the mother hen and
-her brood of chicks which are the beginning of
-every boy&#8217;s first poultry venture. The little table
-may grow into a flower stand, and the cart, made
-larger and stronger, will rival any shop-bought
-express wagon for durability and comfort.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74a" id="Page_74a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_108.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">A SET OF DOLLS&#8217; FURNITURE MADE BY GLUEING TOGETHER BLOCKS OF KINDLING WOOD</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">THE WONDERFUL DODO BIRD</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">A VERY long, long time ago, in the far off
-country of Switzerland, which is the land
-of high mountains and goats and tourists, there
-was a wonderful bird. Nobody ever saw him
-near by, for he lived in a forest of alpenstocks,
-and he had the longest kind of legs, so that no
-matter how fast the tourists pulled up the alpenstocks,
-or how hard they tried to catch him, he always
-got away. The only way any one could see
-him was to watch the mountain tops, for when the
-weather was pleasant, he would climb up and
-stand there outlined clearly against the sky, his
-long legs making him taller than anything around
-him, and he would bob up and down&mdash;first his
-head and then his tail, and then his head again&mdash;and
-wave his plume and call, &#8220;Do-do, do-do.&#8221;</p>
-
-<p>The peasants made little dodo birds whittled
-out of wood, and sold them to the tourists, and
-because a real dodo bird was only hatched once
-in a blue moon, and there are no more blue
-moons, why, the ones the peasants made are the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>
-only dodo birds left. And this is how they made
-them.</p>
-
-<p>The foundation of the bird&#8217;s body (Fig. 1) is
-a chunky piece of wood an inch and a half square
-by three inches long. On each end of this is
-marked a circle&mdash;an inch and a half in diameter,
-which makes it just touch each edge. Then by
-cutting from circle to circle, as nearly straight as
-possible, the wood is made into a three-inch-high
-cylinder. Next one whole end is rounded off like
-the large end of an egg. The next steps in making
-the dodo bird are not quite as simple. A
-straight line is drawn all the way around the
-body, from end to end, which divides it into two
-equal parts. At the end of the line which represents
-the middle of the bird&#8217;s back is measured
-off a space a quarter of an inch on either side.
-This makes a half-inch space which is the tip of
-his tail, and from these points lines are drawn on
-the flat end surface, to complete the four-sided
-figure shown in the end view of Fig. 1, which is
-the whole end of his tail. It tapers from a half
-inch at the top to about a quarter inch at the bottom,
-and when it is all finished, the bottom is
-slanted in a trifle. Next the bottom part is whittled
-up in a curve which meets the lower end of
-the tail, and the rest of the body is whittled in
-the shape shown in the side view of Fig. 1.
-This part can&#8217;t be done by lines because it is a
-gradual curve all over. When this is done two
-flat slanting surfaces are whittled off for the
-sides of the tail.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_112.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Dodo Bird.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>Now you are ready to make the grooves for
-the head and tail feathers to go in. Part of the
-lower center line has been whittled off and will
-have to be replaced. Then, measuring three-sixteenths
-of an inch on each side of this line,
-make parallel lines which shall extend around the
-lower part of the body from the end of the tail to
-a point on the front end just a quarter of an inch
-below the top. A space a half inch wide is left
-in the middle of the bottom for the legs to fasten
-on, and the rest is to be made into the grooves
-as shown on the pattern. The easiest way to do
-this is to cut as far in as possible, on the parallel
-lines which you have drawn, with a small saw.
-Then chip the wood out with a small chisel, and,
-with the chisel held bevel side down, round out
-the bottoms of the grooves. If you haven&#8217;t such
-a chisel though, you can manage with a knife.</p>
-
-<p>When the body is done, the rest is easier. Fig.
-2 shows the head, made from a piece of wood two
-and a half inches long by one and one-eighth wide
-and a quarter inch thick. The outline is marked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>
-and whittled into shape, and the beak is slanted
-down to a point. One quarter of an inch from
-the end of the neck a hole is made for pivoting,
-the eyes are marked in with a pencil, and three
-rows of marks are made across the neck with a
-little pattern marking wheel. These may also be
-made around the body and will add to the beauty
-of the dodo bird. His plume is made of a soft,
-downy chicken feather, stuck into a hole in the
-top of his head and glued in place.</p>
-
-<p>The tail feather (Fig. 3) is shaped like the
-feathered end of an arrow. The &#8220;feathered&#8221;
-part is one inch wide by two and a half long, and
-another inch in length forms the pivoting part.
-This end is a quarter inch wide and five-sixteenths
-thick, and the &#8220;feathers&#8221; are cut in from
-each side with a slanting cut as shown in the
-drawing. The bottom is left perfectly level, but
-the top is slanted down, with three flat cuts, to
-a sharp edge at the end. A hole is made from
-side to side, a quarter of an inch back from the
-small end, for pivoting. Two small nails driven
-through the body, with the head and tail feathers
-in position, form the pivots. They must be
-driven carefully so as not to split the wood, and
-must be placed so that the head and tail feathers
-will work up and down very freely.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>The legs (Fig. 4) are pieces of wood three
-and a half inches long, a half inch wide, and a
-quarter of an inch thick. They are first whittled
-in an elliptical shape. Then the lower part, for a
-space of two and a quarter inches is tapered back
-from the front to give an appearance of standing
-very straight. At the upper end, for a quarter
-of an inch from the top, half of the wood is
-cut away, and the remaining part is fitted into
-holes cut in the body, three quarters of an inch
-apart, and glued.</p>
-
-<p>The standard for the dodo (Fig. 5) is made
-like a small wooden vise. It is a flat piece of
-wood three and a half inches long by two inches
-wide and three quarters of an inch thick. One
-end is beveled slightly, and one end of the top is
-curved down slightly.</p>
-
-<p>In the remaining flat surface on the top two
-holes are whittled out into which the dodo&#8217;s feet
-are to be glued. Then a space two inches long
-and one inch wide is cut out to form the jaws of
-the vise. To tighten the vise there must be some
-sort of a screw through the lower jaw. A
-wooden thumb screw is not easy to get, so the
-best plan is to get a bolt about three eighths of an
-inch in diameter. Then cut a hole almost as
-large in your wood, and screw the bolt in, forcing
-it to cut its own &#8220;thread&#8221; in the soft wood.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80a" id="Page_80a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_116.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">THE DODO BIRD</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>Fig. 6 is the weight which makes the dodo
-work. It is a piece of wood two and a quarter
-inches high by an inch and seven-eighths square.
-This is made into a cylinder and rounded at one
-end precisely as you did with the body. Then
-a circle is marked around it a quarter of an inch
-back from the flat end, and this end is slightly
-rounded off. It may be decorated or not, as you
-choose.</p>
-
-<p>Now you are ready to make the dodo bird
-work. Take two pieces of string&mdash;stout, but not
-too heavy&mdash;about twelve inches long. Fasten an
-end of one of them&mdash;with a tiny wedge and some
-glue&mdash;into the end of the dodo&#8217;s neck, and the
-other into the small end of the tail. Then bring
-the two pieces together and knot them about an
-inch from the other end. Fasten these two ends
-into the top of the weight just as you did the
-single ends.</p>
-
-<p>Now fasten the vise securely on a shelf somewhere,
-and swing the weight to and fro like the
-pendulum of a clock. The dodo will bob first his
-head and then his tail and then his head again,
-and you can almost hear him calling &#8220;Do-do&#8221;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>
-way off on the mountain there. He&#8217;s a source
-of never-ending fun, boys, and besides playing
-with him yourself, you can just watch and see
-how few grown-ups can go by him and resist
-swinging the pendulum.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">A FLEET OF TOY BOATS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">WHO remembers the mill pond down at the
-farm, clean, and high, with trees all about&mdash;a
-capital place for sailing boats? It is so small
-that, directly a toy ship is started on its voyage,
-you can run around the other side and meet her.</p>
-
-<p>There is the trout brook, too, down in the
-woods, where everything is cool and still. There
-isn&#8217;t a sound as you sit on the bank save when a
-mouse comes rustling along, pushing his way
-through the leaves with his queer little pointed
-nose, or a hedgehog plods by, blind and deaf,
-never seeing you at all.</p>
-
-<p>If you should launch a toy boat in the brook,
-where do you suppose it would sail to? You will
-follow it a little way. Sometimes it will get
-caught in the ferns, or it may lie for a minute,
-stranded, on a rock, or it will overturn as it
-shoots the rapids. You start it on again with
-the long pole you cut from the willow tree, but
-presently the boat will sail away, out of a child&#8217;s
-sight, down the brook.</p>
-
-<p>Perhaps it will pick up a crew of little brownie<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>
-sailor men. Perhaps it will stop somewhere to
-load a cargo of butterfly&#8217;s gowns. You will lose
-sight of it though. That is what always happens
-to one&#8217;s toy ships.</p>
-
-<p>A boy can make himself a whole fleet of toy
-boats to play with in the mill pond and the trout
-brook. If one of them does go sailing away to
-Fairyland&mdash;why, what does it matter with all the
-rest of the fleet just tugging away at their ropes,
-waiting to be launched?</p>
-
-<p>The little boats are the nicest of all, because
-one may have so many of them. Out in the
-woods there are some of last year&#8217;s walnuts lying
-on the ground. Split one in half with a jack-knife,
-and take out all the meat, leaving the inside
-smooth and white. Glue a scrap of paper
-to a toothpick, and fasten this little mast to the
-inside of the half walnut shell with a drop of
-glue. There is a real fairy craft, fit for a dragon
-fly to ride in. Just watch it toss and float and
-sail away on the make-believe waves.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84a" id="Page_84a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_122a.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">A CORK RAFT</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_122b.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">A CORK SAIL BOAT</p>
-
-<p>There are so many eggs in the barn, you can
-surely have one. Do you know how to blow an
-egg? Make a tiny hole with a pin in each end,
-then, by blowing steadily into one end, the contents
-of the egg may be emptied out of the other.
-You will be able to cut the egg shell lengthwise,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>
-now, with your jack-knife. If you have some
-paper strips you can bind the edges of the egg
-boat to make it a trifle stronger. Glue two paper
-seats across the top and add a pair of oars made
-of toothpicks. A tiny paper doll will enjoy a
-ride in the egg-shell boat.</p>
-
-<p>Out in the barn where you found the egg,
-there is a whole big bin full of corn cobs. Such
-light, clean playthings they are! They will make
-a stout little raft to float about in the mill pond.
-You will need to select eight corn cobs, all of the
-same size and length. Lay them side by side on
-the barn floor. Then split up an old berry basket,
-and cut two or more of the thin strips of
-wood from the side exactly as long as the raft is
-to be wide, lay these strips of wood across the
-corn cobs and nail them in place with tacks. The
-corn-cob raft is done. It is so light that it can be
-loaded with quite a cargo, two or three rubber
-dolls who do not mind the water, or a toy horse,
-or a rubber pig. Then, if the current is right, it
-will float way across the mill pond, and the toys
-can land on the other side.</p>
-
-<p>Corks make a fine raft, too, and such a light
-one! A cork raft will almost never sink. You
-must collect corks for quite a while before you
-have enough for the raft. They will need to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>
-of just the same width and length. Glue five or
-six corks together by their ends to form a little
-cork log. Make a number of these logs, and
-then fasten them together as you fastened the
-corn-cob raft. Another way of making the cork
-raft is to run the corks on a bit of fine wire and
-the logs may all be wired together in the same
-way.</p>
-
-<p>A very large, flat cork, such as mother puts in
-her pickle jars, will make a fine little sail boat.
-All that it needs is a toothpick mast and a white
-cambric or paper sail glued on.</p>
-
-<p>A paper row boat is very easy to make.
-Choose an oblong of heavy paper that will not
-soak with the water quickly. Fold a cocked
-soldier&#8217;s hat. Every boy knows how to do that.
-Hold the cocked hat in the middle of each side
-and pull it out into a square. Bend back the two
-open sides to form another cocked hat, but
-smaller than the first one. Pull this out, also,
-into a square. Then, if you pull hard on the two
-closed corners, the paper will open into a fine little
-row boat. You can fold so many of these
-paper boats that a new one may be launched as
-fast as the old one sinks.</p>
-
-<p>A boy who is clever with his jack-knife will be
-able to make a stout little sail boat from a piece<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>
-of an old egg crate, or the side of a cigar box.
-The wood must be close grained and light&mdash;that
-is the first essential. Cut the boat, pointed at
-one end, and rub it smooth with a piece of sandpaper.
-Glue a meat skewer to the center for the
-mast, and hoist a little sail. A hole may be bored
-in the end of the sail boat, and a long string tied
-in will allow you to run along the edge of the
-brook and keep this little craft from sailing
-away.</p>
-
-<p>There are other boats which will want to join
-this toyland fleet. Peanut shells may have very
-tiny paper sails pinned to the ends. A race between
-two rival peanut boats will be great fun.</p>
-
-<p>A cigar box boat may have squares cut from
-the sides with a knife for oar locks; with meat
-skewer oars, it will make a very creditable scow,
-flat-bottomed, and perfectly safe for any doll to
-go clamming in.</p>
-
-<p>Clam shells may have paper sails fastened on
-with glue, and any kind of flat shell loves to go
-sailing away by itself on the water.</p>
-
-<p>A strong square of birch bark may be folded
-and cut rounding at the ends to resemble a canoe.
-The ends are then sewed with a needle threaded
-with strands of sweet grass or stout cotton, making
-a tiny Indian craft. If you wish the canoe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>
-to be perfectly water tight, it can be lined with
-waxed paper.</p>
-
-<p>There will be fun for all summer long for the
-boy who makes and sails his own fleet of toy
-boats.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88a" id="Page_88a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_128.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">WHITTLED TOY SAIL BOAT</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A PLAY TENT</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">HAVING a tent out in the garden or on the
-lawn during the summer vacation makes
-each long, happy day twice as long, and just twice
-as happy. A boy can play that he is an Indian,
-or a first settler, or a cave dweller, or even an old
-story book king if he has even the crudest kind
-of a roof over his head and some sort of a play
-shelter beneath which he can live and play, and
-dream all manner of delightful things.</p>
-
-<p>Of course the nicest tent of all is one from a
-real tent factory made of canvas and having
-staples and pegs to fasten it to the ground, but
-such a tent costs ever so much money, and not
-every mother and father can afford to buy it.
-One family of children went without fireworks
-on Fourth of July that they might save the money
-which they would have, otherwise, burned up and
-with it they bought themselves a tent which lasted
-much longer than the smoke and noise of the fireworks
-would have.</p>
-
-<p>There is, though, a very fine tent indeed, and
-one that will give a group of boys quite as much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>
-pleasure as any manufactured one. This is the
-home-made tent. It is the tent that seems to
-really belong to you because it is a sort of a makeshift
-and you make it with your own hands.
-There are ever so many ways of making your
-own tent, all of them simple and quite easy for
-one to follow.</p>
-
-<p>One very strong and serviceable tent has a
-foundation of straight, young birch trees or saplings
-cut in the early spring and used for tent
-poles. Holes should be dug, and the poles set
-in the ground a quarter their length that no summer
-wind storm can uproot them. Around each
-pole, the earth is then pounded down, and the tops
-of the poles, six or eight in number, should be
-lashed together with cord. A couple of old army
-blankets may be stitched together to make a covering
-for this tent. A hole is cut in the center
-and the covering is slipped over the supports and
-tied to the base of each pole. There will be
-enough extra blanket to make a flap in the front
-of the tent to act as a door. If there is a summer
-shower when the children are playing in this
-blanket tent they may pull the flap tight shut, and
-just snuggle inside, listening to the raindrops
-that do not soak through the blanket covering
-one bit.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>A second home-made tent has a foundation of
-bean poles or clothes poles for supports. These
-are sunk in the ground and fastened together at
-the top as were the saplings used for the blanket
-tent. The covering, however, is of brown denim.
-Twelve yards will make a very good-sized tent.
-The lengths are cut to fit the poles used as tent
-supports; they are pointed at the top, and
-stitched together. Tape sewed at the top, center,
-and base of each seam, on the inside, may be
-tied around the poles and fasten the covering to
-the props. This tent may be decorated in such a
-way that it will make a real patch of color on the
-lawn or in the back yard, and will have the appearance
-of an Indian&#8217;s wigwam. Red and
-green, or yellow denim is used for the decorations.
-Small conventionalized trees, moons,
-stars, leaves, or any preferred designs are cut
-from the colored cloth and stitched to the brown
-covering. Another way of decorating the denim
-tent is to paint pictures on it with stencil colors,
-using stencil patterns of Indians, animals, or
-flowers. These colors are &#8220;fast&#8221; and the rain
-will not wash them off as is apt to happen in the
-case of designs applied with colored cloth.</p>
-
-<p>A flower tent is a new sort of playhouse and is
-quite delightful in sunshiny weather. When it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>
-rains you can watch your tent grow from the
-house windows. It will be wise to select a fence
-corner, where a row of castor beans will sprout
-in a night almost to help form the back of the
-tent. Between these castor plants, there may be
-some quick-growing vine planted; mock orange,
-morning glory, or moon flower. As the seeds
-sprout and the vines begin to grow, they should
-be twined upon strings which extend up the
-fence and across the top between the two sides of
-the fence, forming the tent roof. Before summer
-is over, this roof will be a thick one as the
-vines increase their leaves and the leaves themselves
-grow larger and more lavish of their
-shade. After a while they will hang over the
-front of the tent helping to form a third side,
-and when the tent bursts into blossom the children
-who live inside it will feel almost as if they
-were in fairyland.</p>
-
-<p>These tents all take time to make, but there are
-other home-made tents that can spring up in a
-day in the garden. A very little boy can set up
-grandfather&#8217;s big green umbrella for a tent and
-have a pleasant time sitting under it. The handle
-can be buried a little way in the ground and
-there will be plenty of room beneath its delightful
-green shade for a boy and a picture book, or a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>
-girl and her doll. To make this umbrella tent
-still more snug and sheltering, grandmother&#8217;s
-shawl can be draped around it, or a rug may be
-pinned to the edges to form the back and walls.</p>
-
-<p>Two boys who live next door to each other and
-are the friendliest of neighbors can make a tent
-that they can share. The village carpenter will
-furnish four stout pine posts a little taller than the
-fence between the boys&#8217; homes is high. Two of
-these posts are set up on one side of the fence
-about eight feet from the fence itself, and two on
-the other side in just the same position. The
-ticking cover of an old feather bed may be cut
-down to the right size, and nailed to the posts for
-a roof. A couple of old sails may be cut into
-straight curtains for the sides of the tent, with
-strips of lath in the hem so that they can be rolled
-up in pleasant weather. The tent is very cozy
-when it is finished, and before the summer is
-over nearly every boy in town will have been up
-to visit these boys in their little two-room tent.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN TOPS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">SOME toys don&#8217;t know how to play. They
-just stand still and wait for a child to carry
-them around the garden or drag them by their
-strings across the nursery floor. They have no
-proper play spirit, these lazy toys, but that isn&#8217;t
-the case with a top. Given a fair chance, just a
-fine, long string and a smooth sidewalk&mdash;why, a
-top will play with a child all day long. It will
-twirl and whirl, never stopping to rest for long,
-and singing all the time its quaint little humming
-song to keep tune and time with its spinning.</p>
-
-<p>You can buy a top for a penny at the toy shop,
-but it is just a plain, ordinary sort of wooden top
-exactly like all the other tops. How would you
-like to make your own tops? It will be the
-easiest task in the world to do this, and a whole
-lot of fun, too. The materials for home-made
-tops grow out of doors and are lying close at hand
-at home, in the wood-shed, or in the cellar.</p>
-
-<p>Sharpen your jack-knife, and you may start
-out top hunting, at once.</p>
-
-<p>A beet makes a queer little top that will spin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>
-gayly for a day, and if it breaks on the sidewalk
-or curbing, why you may pull up another top
-from the beet patch in the garden. The picture
-shows you a beet top that looks like a very own
-cousin to a wooden top because it is just the same
-shape, and the same size. There should be a
-pointed peg whittled from a scrap of soft kindling
-wood and stuck in the pointed end of the beet.
-The beet top is then wound with a string that has
-a small button mold or a little china button on
-the end and when you throw it as you do an ordinary
-wooden peg top, it will spin finely. A small
-turnip will make a top, too, if it has a whittled
-peg, and a little radish makes a fine top, save that
-it is too small to be wound up and should have a
-bit of toothpick stuck in opposite the peg to twirl
-it by.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96a" id="Page_96a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_138.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">WHITTLED CLOWN TOP</p>
-
-<p>The woods as well as the garden are full of
-tops. Let us go out top gathering under the nut
-trees some fine, frosty morning, taking the heroic
-little jack-knife, too, to help finish the tops. Fat
-acorns make splendid tops. A bit of twig should
-be whittled down to the right size and stuck in the
-flat end of the acorn by which to spin it. Every
-acorn has a fine point upon which to spin and a
-half dozen of these gay little acorn tops may be
-set spinning at once by a group of children in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>
-top contest to see which will keep twirling longest.
-Horse chestnuts may be used for tops, too, if a
-child selects the very round, flat kind of nut.
-Horse chestnuts gathered when they first fall
-from the tree are soft and easily bored with an
-awl or darning needle, or the smallest blade of a
-jack-knife. A hole should be made exactly in the
-center of the nut and a perfectly straight piece
-of twig inserted, pointed at one end and extending
-a half inch above the horse chestnut at the
-top to hold it by. Another way to make a horse
-chestnut top is to cut the nut in half, crosswise,
-and insert halves of toothpicks in each section,
-making two tops instead of one.</p>
-
-<p>When the shut-in days come in the winter and
-it is too late to pick your tops out in the garden
-or gather them in the woods, it will be ever so
-much fun to see how many tops you can make of
-the materials you are able to find at home. The
-wood that is used in a cigar box is soft and easily
-whittled, and just one box will furnish material
-for countless tops. The queer little circus clown
-in the picture spins on the tips of his toes if a
-top string is wound about the long peg protruding
-from the top of his head. He is not one bit
-difficult to make. The outline of a clown in a
-picture book is drawn on a sheet of tracing paper<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
-with a soft pencil and then transferred to a piece
-of the soft wood. If a boy has a jig saw it will
-be very easy to cut the little outlined clown in a
-jiffy, but it can be done in almost as short a time
-with a sharp jack-knife. When the clown is cut,
-his features are drawn in with charcoal or a soft
-pencil. If you spin him hard enough, he will rise
-right up off the ground once in a while and then
-settle down again and go on spinning. If a
-child has a book of brownies he can make a
-brownie top in the same way that the clown top
-was made. The brownie will spin on the tips of
-his little pointed toes.</p>
-
-<p>The top in the picture that has a series of
-circles of different sizes will be ever so easy to
-make. The circles, each a half inch smaller than
-the one which is to be above it, are drawn on soft
-wood, and are then cut out with a jack-knife. A
-hole is cut in the center of each circle and they
-are fitted on a piece of wooden meat skewer, the
-point of the meat skewer forming the spinning
-end of the top. With a box of water color
-paints the circular disks of the tops are then
-painted in gay contrasting colors and the effect
-will be charming when the little top begins to
-spin.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98a" id="Page_98a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_142.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">(A) BEET TOP. (B) TOP MADE OF GRADUATED DISKS.
-(C) BUTTON MOLD TOP.</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>Button molds make tops. The big wooden
-molds that the tailor uses for coats are best to
-make into tops. The hole in the center must be
-enlarged to admit of a sharpened end of a meat
-skewer being inserted. These button mold tops
-may be painted, too, and a splendid game can be
-played with them on the nursery table. Two
-stakes may be set up&mdash;the stakes from a parlor
-croquet set will do nicely&mdash;at the opposite ends of
-the table. The boys playing the game then
-choose colors and spin their button mold tops,
-whipping them with tiny whips made of meat
-skewers and colored twine, and trying to see
-whose top will make the distance between stakes
-first at the one spinning.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">THE FARM THE SCISSORS BUILT</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">IT will be almost as fine as a real farm when it
-is finished and ever so much easier to make,
-because one will not need any boards, or tools, or
-huge nails to use in putting it together.</p>
-
-<p>What do you suppose the barn is made of?
-Why, just a big piece of heavy wrapping paper
-that some one has brought to the house, and then
-has dropped on the hall table to be thrown away
-because it does not seem to be of any use now its
-wrapping days are over.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_147.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Folding for Barn.</p>
-
-<p>First, one should cut the heavy wrapping paper
-into a large square. Then fold the square into
-sixteen small squares like the folding indicated in
-the diagram. Some of the lines in the diagram
-are dotted. Those show how the square is folded
-to make the little squares. Some of the lines are
-solid, heavy lines. Those are the lines to be cut.
-Make these cuts very carefully with scissors.
-There will be three cuts, each one square long
-and one square apart on two opposite sides of the
-paper. The two middle squares which are
-marked &#8220;a&#8221; in the diagram should be superimposed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>
-That is a very, very long word, is it not?
-It means something very simple, though. These
-two squares are laid, one on top of the other, and
-are glued into place. Next, the squares marked
-&#8220;b&#8221; are brought together and their edges are
-glued. Then&mdash;one end of the wrapping paper
-barn is finished. Glue the squares at the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>
-end of the barn in the same way, and cut a wide
-barn door. The door is made by cutting on a
-vertical crease on one side of the house, making
-two other cuts at right angles with the first one,
-and folding back the two sides of the door at the
-opening. If you want a window where you can
-toss hay up into the barn loft, it may be cut just
-above the door. A boy who has seen the inside
-of a real barn will be able to cut some strips of the
-heavy paper, and paste them together, fastening
-them to the back wall of the barn to show where
-the cow and the horse stalls are.</p>
-
-<p>Some more strips of paper may be pasted together
-to form a barnyard fence. The barn may
-stand on the nursery table with the fence all
-around it, or an old suit box of mother&#8217;s will
-make a very fine barnyard indeed. The sides of
-the box should be ruled with a pencil to look like
-the bars in a real barnyard fence. Then you can
-cut the bars with a jack-knife, or some sharp
-pointed scissors. When you have finished the
-suit-box barnyard, the barn may stand in one corner
-of it.</p>
-
-<p>Now you are ready to cut some animals to live
-in the barn.</p>
-
-<p>The pictures in your animal picture books will
-make splendid patterns for the barnyard animals.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>
-Trace the animals with some tissue paper and
-then transfer these patterns to some stiff paper.
-When you have cut carefully on the traced outline,
-you may paste the animal&#8217;s feet to cardboard
-standards to make them stand up. There may be
-cows, and horses, and a donkey, and a whole flock
-of barnyard fowls. Then you may color the
-barn creatures with your water color paints or
-with colored pencils.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_149.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Finished Barn.</p>
-
-<p>You can make a fine, large farm wagon, also,
-to stand beside the barn. To make the wagon,
-you should fold a small square of paper as you
-folded the large one for the barn. Instead of
-using the whole square, though, as you did for
-the barn, you must cut off a strip of four squares.
-Then make the short cuts as you did for the barn
-in the ends of the oblong piece of paper. Lay the
-three square laps which you have made by the
-cutting together, and paste them&mdash;one on top of
-the other. Cut out some wheels and fasten them
-to the cart. Glue on some cardboard or sticks
-for shafts, and the farm wagon is done.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104a" id="Page_104a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_150.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">CART, BARN AND BARROW, MADE OF CARDBOARD BOXES</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>If you want a wheelbarrow in the barnyard,
-you may cut one of mother&#8217;s old spool boxes in
-half. The edges where you made the cut should
-be curved. A wheel made of an empty spool, or
-a cardboard disk may be fastened to one end with
-a pin, and some cardboard legs may be glued to
-the wheelbarrow.</p>
-
-<p>When the paper farm is complete, you must
-harness the donkey to the wagon, and set him to
-work. Cut out some of the gay pictures of fruit
-and vegetables that fill the seed catalogues, and
-load the wagon.</p>
-
-<p>Fill the wheelbarrow, too. Cut out some paper
-overall boys to visit the farm and spend the
-summer. There is no end to the plays that the
-paper farm will suggest to you.</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">MORE BOX PLAYS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">ONE of father&#8217;s empty note paper boxes, a
-starch box, a box that held spools of thread
-once&mdash;one, or all of these will furnish delightful
-play material for an afternoon in the house. A
-box has not finished its usefulness when its contents
-are gone. It is strong and tough often
-still, and ready for all kinds of fun.</p>
-
-<p>Some cardboard boxes, large and small, will
-make the toy farm establishment shown in the
-picture. A box that once was filled with writing
-paper serves for the barn. The box stands on
-one side, leaving the entire front open that toy
-animals can be put in and taken out with greater
-ease than if there were a door. The long edge
-of the box cover is cut to fit the box, inserted and
-glued in place to form the front of the stalls which
-hold the toy animals. Shorter lengths of the
-cover edge are fitted in between the back of the
-box and this front partition to separate the stalls
-and are also glued in place. When these are in,
-a door can be cut. The stalls must be furnished<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>
-with little grain boxes for the play horses to eat
-from; and this is the way to make them.</p>
-
-<p>Measure with a school ruler and cut out a four-inch
-square of heavy wrapping paper. Lay the
-paper on a table in front of you and fold, first,
-the front edge up to the back, and then the front
-and back edges down to meet the center fold.
-Now turn the paper around, repeating the folding
-until there are sixteen squares. Cut off a
-row of four squares, leaving an oblong piece of
-paper that contains twelve squares. Make two
-cuts in the opposite narrow ends of the paper, one
-square long and one square apart. Fold up these
-squares and paste them, one on top of the other,
-forming a little oblong box. One of these boxes
-pasted to the back of each stall looks just like a
-grain trough, and may be filled with oats, if a
-country boy is making the farm, for the little
-horse to eat.</p>
-
-<p>Some of the wrapping paper that remains after
-the grain boxes are finished makes the roof of the
-barn. Cut a strip as wide as the barn is deep and
-once and a half as long. Fold it once through
-the center and, at the ends, fold down flaps by
-means of which the roof can be glued to the top
-of the box forming a hay loft. When spring
-comes you can cut grass blades with a pair of
-gardener&#8217;s shears, dry them in the sun, and fill
-the loft of this little box barn with real, play hay.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108a" id="Page_108a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_156.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">CIRCUS PARADE (THE CAGE IS MADE OF A SHOE BOX)</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>A box in which the apothecary packs his powders
-makes the little farm cart in the picture, and
-another one the wheelbarrow. No cutting is
-necessary for the cart, but some of the cardboard
-left in the cover of the note paper box can be
-used for wheels. A fifty-cent bit is the right size
-for the wheels. Lay one on the cardboard, and
-draw carefully around it with a pencil, cutting
-four of these wheels with a pair of sharp scissors.
-Brass paper fasteners will make strong hubs for
-the little wheels. Pierce a hole through both
-wheel and box before inserting the fastener,
-though, to help the wheel to turn. A strip of the
-box cover glued to the front of the cart serves for
-the handle.</p>
-
-<p>The wheelbarrow is just a little more difficult
-to make than these other toys, but not too great
-a task for a child with clever fingers. A section
-that is about one third of the entire length is
-measured and cut off the second small box, and
-thrown away. It is the remaining two-thirds of
-the box that is to make the wheelbarrow. The
-front, open edges of the box are now curved like
-the sides of a real wheelbarrow. Two narrow
-strips of the cover, or two small sticks are glued<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>
-to the front of the wheelbarrow for handles, and
-two shorter lengths of cardboard or two very
-tiny sticks form the legs. Another cardboard
-circle cut the same size as those used for the cart
-wheels is inserted by means of a knife cut in the
-back of the barrow and helps it to trundle along.</p>
-
-<p>The box-built cart and wheelbarrow will be
-found most useful in the spring. They can be
-loaded with little green apples, tiny brown pebbles
-that look like toy potatoes, corn kernels, or
-peas. They will be strong enough to last a whole
-season and help to carry fodder to the horse who
-lives in the box barn.</p>
-
-<p>There is still more box fun. Ask mother for
-an empty cardboard starch box, the strong kind
-covered with blue paper, and see what a fine little
-toy garage it will make. Almost every child has
-a toy automobile given him for Christmas, but it
-is so apt to go steering away with its own gasoline,
-and losing itself somewhere in the house if
-a child has no special place in which to keep it.</p>
-
-<p>Take the cover of the box and turn the box
-itself bottom side up. On one side, right in the
-center, draw a big square. The lower part of
-the square should come on the very outside edge
-of the box because this square is to be the garage
-door. The door should be made in two parts, so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>
-as to open very wide and admit the automobile
-when it comes steaming along in a great hurry.
-To make this double door, draw a perpendicular
-line that divides the square into two parts.
-Then, with a pair of sharp scissors cut right up
-this line to the top of the square. Next, cut
-along the top line to the right and left of the middle
-line. Folding back the two halves that have
-just been cut, out toward the outside of the box,
-makes two little doors and opens the front of the
-garage. Square windows can be cut in the sides
-of the box, as many as one wishes.</p>
-
-<p>A number of empty thread boxes will make a
-splendid train of cars, strong enough to drag a
-whole family of china dolls or a load of live stock
-up and down the piazza or along the garden path.
-Cardboard circles cut from the covers of the
-thread boxes and of the same size as those used
-for the wheels of the toy cart make the car
-wheels. They are fastened on, either in similar
-fashion to the cart wheels by means of paper fasteners,
-or a bone collar button may be pushed
-through cart and wheel, helping the wheels to
-revolve more easily. One of the thread boxes
-has the cover glued on, and to the top is glued
-also one large wooden spool for the engine&#8217;s
-smoke stack, and a block for the engineer&#8217;s cab.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>
-These little box cars are coupled together by
-short lengths of braided cord. Holes are
-punched in the ends of the cars with an awl and
-the cord is pushed through and knotted at each
-end to hold it in place. A long piece of cord is
-fastened to the engine and is used to draw the
-cars by.</p>
-
-<p>There is no end to the entertainment and fun
-to be had from a pile of empty boxes. Just get
-to work at a few of them your next free afternoon
-and find out how much they are able to help
-you in your play.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112a" id="Page_112a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_162.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">(A) THE ARK<br />
-(B) CARDBOARD ANIMALS WHO LIVE IN THE ARK</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">A RECIPE FOR A NOAH&#8217;S ARK</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">IT isn&#8217;t a very difficult recipe to follow. All
-the stirring you need to do will be when you
-mix up some flour and a little water to make the
-paste. That is the first ingredient. Next in the
-recipe comes a pair of sharp scissors and a pencil.
-After that you must find some sheets of heavy
-paper, and the old animal picture books that you
-thought you could not enjoy any longer because
-the leaves were coming apart and the pictures
-were torn. Spread out all these things on the
-nursery table, and you will be ready to begin the
-Noah&#8217;s Ark.</p>
-
-<p>The Ark itself is to be a big, strong envelope
-for holding all the wild animals, and this is how
-you must make it. One of the sheets of heavy
-paper should be folded in half. The folded edge
-forms the bottom of the envelope. Beginning
-with this folded edge, the outline of the Ark is
-drawn on the paper with your pencil. It is a
-simple outline to draw&mdash;a big boat with curved
-ends, and a sort of house resting on the top.
-Then, holding the folded edge tightly so that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>
-paper will not slip, cut out the Ark. The ends of
-the Ark should be bound or glued, but the top is
-left open that the animals may be put in.</p>
-
-<p>Windows and a door are cut in the Ark for the
-animals will want to look out as they sail away
-on their wonderful voyage, and the Ark may be
-painted bright red with green trimmings.</p>
-
-<p>Next come the animals.</p>
-
-<p>The pictures of the animals may be mounted on
-one of the remaining sheets of heavy paper, so
-they will be stiff enough to stand up alone. That
-is one way of making enough animals to fill the
-Ark, but there is another way that will take a little
-longer, but will prove ever so much more fun.</p>
-
-<p>The loose pictures from the book of animals
-should be fastened to the table with thumb tacks,
-or tacked to a drawing board. A square of white
-tissue paper is then laid over each, and the outline
-of the animal&#8217;s body is traced with a soft
-pencil. When the tracing is finished, the tissue
-paper is carefully lifted off and laid with the plain
-side up on some stiff white cardboard. The outline
-is then retraced with the same soft pencil
-leaving a pattern of the animal on the cardboard.
-The animal is then cut out, and painted with the
-nursery water colors.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114a" id="Page_114a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_166.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">GOING ABOARD THE ARK</p>
-
-<p>You will need to be very clever, indeed, to paint<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>
-the animals so that they will look as if they were
-just fresh from the jungle. There must be a
-tawny lion colored with brown that has a great
-deal of yellow ocher mixed with it. The panther
-must be orange with big yellow spots, and
-large green eyes. The tiger&#8217;s eyes must have
-yellow mixed with the green paint and his coat is
-yellow with orange stripes. The bear is brown
-and the kangaroo is tan.</p>
-
-<p>There should be two of each kind of animal.
-Now how shall you make them stand up and walk
-like real, live animals? Some very tiny bits of
-wood may be glued to their feet. That is one
-way of making the animals stand. Another way
-is to make a narrow ring of the same cardboard
-from which the animals were cut. The animals&#8217;
-feet are then glued to this ring, and they will
-really stand.</p>
-
-<p>A boy will be able to make more animals than
-he can count,&mdash;leopards, monkeys, zebras, elephants,
-as many as he can find patterns for in his
-toy picture books. And it will prove such fun
-to draw them and paint them that he will be kept
-busy for many rainy afternoons.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN UNIFORM</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">EVERY boy needs to be a soldier, once in a
-while. There are so many brave deeds to
-be done and so many cowardly things to fight,
-and so much dark to walk through courageously,
-and so many strange dogs and cats, and shy little
-girls to protect with all the gallantry of those old,
-old knights who lived in the story-book days. A
-soldier boy is never late for school, and he never,
-never forgets to do an errand. He goes to bed
-alone every evening at eight, even if the stairway
-is dark, and there is no light in the upstairs hall
-to chase away the ghosts. He never lies, and he
-is always cheerful. He knows that being brave
-and gallant and true is just as much a part of a
-soldier&#8217;s duty as marching, and drumming, and
-saluting Old Glory.</p>
-
-<p>It isn&#8217;t easy to be a soldier though in a plain,
-everyday suit of clothes, made of homespun perhaps,
-and patched, and dingy brown in color. A
-real soldier suit cut and fitted the right size for a
-boy costs more money than there is in the boy&#8217;s
-tin bank. What is the boy going to do if he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>
-wants more than anything else to be a soldier and
-he hasn&#8217;t enough money to buy himself a suit?</p>
-
-<p>Any boy will be able to make the soldier trappings
-shown in the picture, and when he puts on
-the cap, and the shield, pins the epaulets to his
-shoulders and sticks the play sword in his belt, he
-will be ready for the life of a little soldier. He
-can work or play cheerfully, and when it comes
-Saturday, or Washington&#8217;s Birthday, he will be
-the envy of all the other boys as he leads them in
-a fine parade, dressed in his gay, home-made soldier
-things.</p>
-
-<p>Suppose we make the soldier&#8217;s cap first. The
-diagram marked Fig. 1, 2, 3, and 4, shows just
-how to do the construction. A bright red cap
-will be fine for the soldier, or a blue one just the
-color of the blue field in the flag. There is a
-kind of tough, half-heavy paper called book cover
-paper. One can order it from a stationer&#8217;s shop
-or a printing factory at a cent or two a sheet.
-Some sheets of this will make the boy&#8217;s own cap
-and enough for all the other soldiers in the regiment.
-A piece of paper that measures fourteen
-by twenty inches is the foundation for the soldier
-cap. Fold the two narrower edges together until
-they touch, and crease the paper through the center
-as shown in Fig. 1. Then with the paper still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>
-folded, make a second fold as shown by the line in
-Fig. 2. This line forms a guide line for the next
-two folds which make the point of the cap. Lay
-the papers, open, as in Fig. 1, on a table with the
-folded edge at the back; fold each half of the
-back edge down along the line made by the last
-folding. Then fold up and crease the lower open
-edges forming the rim of the cap. The rim
-should be glued down to make the cap firm and
-strong. A feather can be made by fringing
-strips of red or blue cr�pe paper and twisting
-them around a narrow strip of cardboard which is
-glued inside the rim of the cap. A turkey&#8217;s
-feather will do just as well, or a bunch of hen&#8217;s
-feathers, or a cockade made of red, white, and
-blue ribbons to decorate the cap.</p>
-
-<p>A boy can find a splendid shield pattern in the
-back of the dictionary. Copy it, and enlarge it
-until it is the right size to cover a boy&#8217;s shirt
-bosom. Then draw it on heavy white cardboard,
-and cut it out. A good size for the shield will be
-eight by ten inches. When it is cut it can be
-decorated with stars and stripes with colored
-pencils or paints as shown in the picture. The
-stripes are drawn carefully with a ruler and
-filled in with color; one red and one white.
-The blue ground above the stripes is dotted with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>
-stars cut from gilt paper and pasted on. Two
-holes are punched in the sides of the shield, and
-a bit of cord is strung in by means of which the
-shield may be hung around a boy&#8217;s neck. It will
-make his heart beat faster and give him a whole
-lot of courage every time he looks down at its
-brave stars and stripes.</p>
-
-<p>Now for the sword which looks like a formidable
-weapon in the picture, but is really not
-dangerous at all. Every boy knows how to roll
-a narrow piece of paper, and make a lamp
-lighter. The sword that is part of this home-made
-soldier suit is made in just the same way.
-Cut some narrow strips of the book cover paper
-and join them with glue until there is a long
-strip. Roll this strip of paper tightly, in lamp
-lighter fashion, until it is fifteen inches long.
-Then press it flat between heavy weights. Roll
-a second strip of paper for a length of six inches
-and glue it to the broad end of the sword as a
-handle. These swords are so delightfully easy to
-make that a boy will want to roll a dozen after he
-has made his first one, and he can arm himself
-with as many paper poniards as an Indian chief
-has arrows in his quiver.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120a" id="Page_120a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_174.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">(A) PATTERN FOR SOLDIER&#8217;S CAP<br />
-(B) THE FINISHED UNIFORM: CAP, SHIELD, SWORD AND EPAULETS</p>
-
-<p>The soldier&#8217;s epaulets are just five by two inch
-strips of the book cover paper cut to fit a boy&#8217;s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>
-shoulders and decorated with fringed red and
-blue tissue paper. They can be pinned to the
-soldier&#8217;s coat shoulders with safety pins and will
-make an ordinary play suit quite as military in
-appearance as any uniform.</p>
-
-<p>When the boy soldier is dressed in this home-made
-uniform, which will be even more effective
-than any which is for sale in a toy shop, he will
-be ready for any adventure in addition to the
-brave prowess of everyday life. Perhaps he and
-the other boys will want to take one of mother&#8217;s
-old blankets and two or three clothes poles for a
-tent, and tramp as far as the woods for a day of
-real scouting. Every soldier has a knapsack for
-carrying provisions and this play soldier will
-need one, too. A large, flat box makes a fine
-knapsack. Inside can be packed a bundle of
-sandwiches, two or three apples, a doughnut or
-two, and a piece of pie or a big slice of pound
-cake. When the box is packed, tie it securely
-with a length of cord, and have one end of the
-cord for a strap by means of which the knapsack
-is hung across the soldier&#8217;s back. Roll a square
-of old blanket and tie to the top of the box just
-as a real soldier fastens his blanket to his knapsack,
-and the make-believe soldier in cap, epaulets,
-and shield can draw his sword and start off
-in search of any adventure.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">JOINTED TOY ANIMALS. HOW TO MAKE THEM</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THEY will really do &#8220;stunts,&#8221; these toys in the
-picture. The grasshopper will hop if you
-stand him up on a table and give him a chance.
-The turtle will crawl along much faster than an
-ordinary, live turtle. The crocodile will follow
-you so fast that you will surely be eaten by him
-unless you hurry. What fun it is going to be to
-play with these live toys, but first a child must
-make them, and as many more as he likes.</p>
-
-<p>Clear a low table on which to work and find
-some heavy cardboard or thick water color paper
-from which to construct the animals. Bring also,
-a pair of strong scissors, a sheet of tracing paper,
-a soft lead pencil and the box of water color
-paints you found in your stocking last Christmas.
-These are all the tools and material necessary for
-making a barnful of animals. Ask mother for
-some porcelain collar buttons to fasten the
-animals&#8217; legs to the bodies. The laundry man
-brings so many of these useless studs every week
-and a crop of them will be fine for jointing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>
-animals. If one cannot find enough collar buttons,
-a box of tiny brass paper fasteners will
-serve very well instead.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_179.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>Every boy knows how to draw a few animals,
-at least free hand. If he is clever enough to be
-able to do this just by watching the horses out in
-the street, or the tiger in the Zoo, or the kitten
-who sits in front of the nursery fire, washing her
-face, so much the better. He will not need any
-patterns. The child who finds difficulty in
-sketching an animal free hand will have to trace
-his patterns from a book, or a toy animal. Often<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>
-one of the nursery toy animals may be laid flat
-on the cardboard and its outline drawn and cut.
-Noah&#8217;s Ark animals, if they are large, make excellent
-patterns for a child to copy. If one has
-no toys of the right size, the tracing paper may be
-laid over the picture of an animal in a farm picture
-book, or a book that tells about the jungle, or
-a book on Natural History. When the outline of
-the animal has been neatly traced on the tracing
-cloth, it should be transferred to the cardboard
-from which the animal is to be made. When a
-child has obtained a clear outline in this way, he
-may next proceed to make the animals alive.</p>
-
-<p>First, he must decide just the location of the
-animal&#8217;s joints. Where are the tiger&#8217;s paws fastened
-to his legs? Where are the grasshopper&#8217;s
-knees? Where, hidden underneath his shell are
-the turtle&#8217;s funny little flat feet attached to his
-body? Then, using the pattern which has just
-been made, a new pattern of the creature&#8217;s body
-is made, then a pattern of a leg, a tail, an ear, and
-these sections are all cut from the cardboard, separately,
-with scissors or the sharp jack-knife. In
-cutting out legs and paws, they should be made
-always a little longer than the original pattern to
-allow for the joint by which they are fastened to
-the body. As soon as all the parts of an animal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>
-have been cut from the cardboard, they should
-be laid in place and holes punched with a coarse
-needle or an awl at the joints. If the animal is
-a huge one, the collar buttons may be slipped in
-these holes to hold the sections together. In the
-case of the toy creatures shown in the picture, paper
-fasteners were used. When these joints
-have been made the toys will stand or sit, cock
-their ears or wag their tails, leap or run&mdash;in fact
-they will do anything a boy wishes.</p>
-
-<p>The paints come next. It will be great fun to
-make the toy animals just the right color. A
-tiger may be such a gorgeous yellow with bright
-green eyes and black stripes. The grasshopper
-may be either green or a warm brown, and the
-turtle&#8217;s house which he must always carry around
-on his back should be painted gray.</p>
-
-<p>These jointed animals may be persuaded to act
-out the children&#8217;s favorite stories and will furnish
-a new kind of fun for rainy afternoons in the
-house.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126a" id="Page_126a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_182.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">JOINTED CARDBOARD ANIMALS</p>
-
-<p>Little Brer Rabbit can be easily made of white
-cardboard from the pictures of Peter Rabbit or
-the rabbit pictures on an Easter card. Then
-Brer Rabbit and Old Man Terrapin may act out
-on the nursery table the famous race that Uncle
-Remus has told us about. A shoe box may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>
-used for a miniature stage if it is placed on its
-side on a table, some scenery is painted in at the
-back and a little cloth curtain hung at the front.
-Through a hole in one end the jointed animals
-may be put in and they will perform most acceptably
-for an audience of dolls.</p>
-
-<p>Two children playing together, or two groups
-of children can each make a set of jointed animals
-and then pose them to illustrate a favorite story,
-the other child or group guessing the story illustrated.</p>
-
-<p>Many other plays will suggest themselves when
-one has a set of animals which are really alive
-and which a child has made, all himself.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">YOUR OWN CIRCUS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">IT is going to be a circus small enough to fit in
-any house. In fact, it will be possible to put
-it within the boundaries of an old table. Because
-you can&#8217;t always have an outdoor show is just the
-reason that you are going to plan this fine, diminutive
-one in the house. It may take several
-days to get it ready, but once your indoor circus
-is finished, you will find it almost if not quite as
-interesting as a real one.</p>
-
-<p>First, find an old table somewhere to be used
-as a circus ground. A pine table will serve
-nicely, and if you can find some old green muslin
-with which to cover it, you will discover that it
-looks exactly like the grass in the field where the
-real circus is held. Tack the muslin to the under
-side of the table top so that it will not wrinkle
-and interfere with the circus parade. Now you
-are ready for the rope fence which always encloses
-a circus ground.</p>
-
-<p>In the four corners of the table bore, with a
-gimlet, through the canvas, some holes that are
-just the right size to hold dowel sticks, five inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>
-long. You can buy these dowel sticks of a carpenter
-in foot lengths at a few cents each. Glue
-the posts in the holes which you have bored in
-the table and also bore extra holes for two more
-about a foot apart in the front of the table.
-These last little posts are for the gate to your circus
-ground. When the glue has set and the posts
-are perfectly dry, tie cord to one, near the top,
-and then stretch it to another, knotting it, until
-you have finished the rope fence that encloses the
-circus ground. If you like you can have two or
-three rows of cord, and you can print a little circus
-sign to pin to the gate. It may read:</p>
-
-
-<p class="center">THE GREAT AND ONLY ANIMAL SHOW<br />
-<br />
-Clowns, Wild Beasts, and the Biggest Elephant<br />
-in the World.<br />
-<br />
-Performances Every Afternoon and Evening.<br />
-<br />
-Admission, Adults, two pins, Children, alone,<br />
-one pin.<br />
-<br />
-<span class="smcap">Come One. Come All!</span><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>All around the edges of the bill you can draw
-pictures of wild animals with your colored pencils.</p>
-
-<p>The circus ground will look very much pleasanter
-if you have a few trees standing about on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>
-the edges, and these trees will be useful, also, to
-tie some of your wild beasts to.</p>
-
-<p>Meat skewers will do nicely for the tree trunks
-if you fringe ever so many narrow, doubled strips
-of green tissue paper, and wind them with it, fastening
-the fringes to the meat skewer with mucilage.
-The green paper flutters in the air quite
-like real foliage in the breeze on circus day, and
-the little trees will stand up nicely if you stick the
-end of each skewer inside an empty spool, glueing
-it there so that it will stay in place.</p>
-
-<p>Did you think that you were never coming to
-the tent for your circus? Well, here it is, and
-the picture shows you just how to construct it.
-You will need to enlarge the diagram several
-times the size which you see in the picture, but
-that is easily accomplished by means of your
-ruler and lead pencil. Use some sort of tough,
-firm paper for the tent. Water color paper will
-be splendid because you can get out your paint
-box and paint pictures of wild men and palm trees
-and animals on the sides. If you have no water
-color paper, use brown bristol board. The latter
-makes a fine stiff tent. Cut out the top and sides
-as carefully as you can, bend them, and glue or
-paste them together. Then stand the tent up in
-the center of your circus ground.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_189.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Pattern for Circus Tent.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>The animals, next.</p>
-
-<p>There are patterns for them, too, which you
-will see in the picture and which are so simple as
-to be very easily enlarged. The animals can be
-made of the same kind of paper which you used
-for the tent, and then painted, the elephant gray,
-the camel a soft brown and the deer a dull reddish
-color, or you can cut them out of wood. This is
-perhaps the better way. Use thin pieces of very
-soft, white wood. An excellent wood is holly or
-soft pine, in the thin sheets which are used for
-jig saw work, and for making picture puzzles.
-Draw the pattern of the animal which you wish
-to make first very carefully on your piece of
-wood. Give your best jack-knife two or three
-turns on a grindstone so that it will be nice and
-sharp, and then go to work cutting the animal,
-not your fingers. Make as many animals as you
-can, and glue their feet to tiny blocks of kindling
-wood so that they will stand. Touch them up a
-little with paint, too, to make them look wilder.</p>
-
-<p>If you want cages for your animals use empty
-spool boxes, covers and all. Cut bars in the cover
-of each box with your jack-knife, stand the animal
-inside and put the cover back on. The box
-rests on cardboard wheels which are glued to the
-long, narrow side of the box.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>A clever boy will be able to invent the acts for
-the circus. One can rig up trapezes and flying
-swings and tight rope appliances very easily by
-using strings and spools. One can paint flags
-of all nations or cut them from colored tissue
-paper to float from the roof of the tent, and this
-little home-made circus will be so attractive that
-all the other boys will want to make similar ones
-just as soon as they see it.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">BEAD WORK FOR BOYS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THERE is not a boy but has gazed at the
-alluring Indian suits in the toy shop windows,
-wishing that he were able to buy one. It
-is so much easier to give a proper war whoop, and
-scare a few of the fellows, and execute a wild
-war dance, or even sit by a camp fire in the woods
-telling stories, if only he is dressed like a real, live
-Indian.</p>
-
-<p>Why not make one&#8217;s own Indian suit?</p>
-
-<p>It is perfectly possible for a boy to make himself
-a fine Indian shirt, fringed, and decorated
-with beads; a pair of beaded moccasins and
-a bead belt in which may be thrust a scalping
-knife, a bow and arrow and a few other implements
-of war. He may hang all his scalps to the
-belt, too.</p>
-
-<p>The only materials needed for the suit will be
-three or four large chamois skins&mdash;or two yards
-of brown denim if the chamois seems too expensive
-for the young Indian&#8217;s pocketbook&mdash;some
-red and blue porcelain beads which may be bought
-in strings at any dry goods store for a few cents<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>
-a string, a spool of heavy cotton thread, and a
-little patience. With a coarse needle, and a pair
-of scissors the boy will be ready for work. Making
-an Indian suit will fill a great many rainy
-afternoons full of fun.</p>
-
-<p>The bead belt is the best part of the suit to begin
-with because a boy can experiment with designs
-as he weaves the beads together, and he will
-be able to form an idea of the pattern he wishes
-to use when he embroiders the shirt and the moccasins.
-One will need a bead loom on which to
-make the belt. These looms may be bought at a
-toy shop, but that is not really necessary. An
-old box will do quite as well for a loom. The
-belt in the picture was started on the cover of an
-old shoe box, and a cigar box with the cover and
-the bottom removed makes a fine bead loom. In
-making a loom from a wooden box, very small
-screw eyes may be put in the ends of the loom,
-about one quarter of an inch apart to hold the
-threads. In the card board cover shown in the
-picture, the warp threads&mdash;those are the lengthwise
-threads in the weaving&mdash;are held in place
-by pins to which they were knotted at the ends of
-the loom.</p>
-
-<p>Fourteen threads are strung on the loom for a
-section of the belt, as tightly as the card board<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>
-will allow of their being stretched. A needle is
-then threaded with the coarse cotton thread, and
-the end is tied to the warp thread at the top of
-the loom at the left. The needle is then brought
-out to the right below the warp strands, thirteen
-red beads&mdash;one less bead than the number of the
-warp strands, remember&mdash;are strung on the
-thread, and the beads are pressed up between the
-warp strands so that one bead comes between
-every two threads. The needle is then run back
-from right to left through the beads <i>above</i> the
-warp threads. This makes one row of beads securely
-woven to the warp. For the second row
-of beads, six red beads, one blue one and six more
-red ones are strung, the blue bead forming the
-beginning of a simple design. The third row has
-three blue beads in the center, the fourth has five,
-the fifth three, and the sixth one, completing the
-design. A row of red beads is then woven in,
-after which the unit of design was repeated.</p>
-
-<p>Many different designs will suggest themselves
-to the boy bead weaver. A checker board pattern
-of squares may be used, there may be a plain
-border at the edges of the belt, or a Greek fret
-may be introduced with charming effect.</p>
-
-<p>When the section of the belt shown in the picture
-is finished, it may be removed from the loom,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>
-the ends of thread being tied securely about the
-last row of beads. A second section is strung on
-the loom, blue beads being strung first with a design
-of red in the center. Four sections, two red
-and two blue, may be sewed together to complete
-the gay little Indian belt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_195.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Indian Shirt Pattern.</p>
-
-<p>Now for the Indian&#8217;s shirt. The pattern
-which is shown in the picture should be enlarged
-according to the scale, one and one half inches
-to a foot. If chamois skin is used for the shirt,
-probably one large and two smaller skins will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>
-need to be joined to give enough material, but
-if the shirt is made of brown denim, the pattern
-may be laid on a length of the cloth, without
-piecing, and the shirt is then cut. It will not be
-necessary to sew any seams in the shirt. It is
-folded over at the neck opening, and tied on the
-small boy with narrow strips of leather indicated
-in the picture. One strip of leather is tied under
-the arms, and the other about the hips. The
-bead embroidery finishes the neck and sides of
-the shirt. To do this embroidery, a needle is
-threaded with coarse linen thread, and knotted at
-the end. Starting at the right of the neck, and
-close to the edge, the needle is brought through
-to the outside of the shirt. Three beads are
-then strung. They are held down close to the
-shirt and the needle is thrust through the cloth to
-the inside again. The needle is then brought
-through, close to the first stitch, three more beads
-are strung, and the embroidery is continued.
-Red and blue beads should be alternated to form
-a design. This stitch described is the simplest
-one for a boy to use and it is most effective also,
-being the stitch used by the Indians when they
-embroidered their own shirts, moccasins, and
-leggins.</p>
-
-<p>In starting the embroidery for the sides of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>
-shirt, the bead border should be started about two
-inches from the edge, this margin being fringed
-carefully with sharp scissors after the beads are
-all sewed on. A design of beads, which may be
-varied according to the taste and skill of the boy
-who makes it, may ornament the front and the
-back of the shirt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_197.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Moccasin Pattern.<span class="gap">Finished Moccasin.</span></p>
-
-
-
-<p>Moccasins sound very difficult to make, but
-here is a pattern all in one piece, with no troublesome
-uppers and soles to be fitted together.
-Chamois skin should be used, if possible, for the
-moccasins, or the light weight leather which may
-be bought at a craft shop for art work and can
-easily be sewed. When the pattern of the moccasin
-which is shown in the picture has been enlarged
-according to the scale&mdash;three inches to a
-foot&mdash;it is laid on the leather or chamois, and a
-pair of moccasins is cut out. It will be found
-easier to embroider the toe before the moccasin is
-sewed. The sewing which holds the moccasin in
-shape is done with very coarse thread in an over
-and over stitch. Narrow strips of leather may
-be used, also, for the joining, in which case, holes
-should be punched with a stiletto and awl to admit
-of the leather being passed through the material.
-After this joining is completed, the flap indicated
-in the picture is folded over on the dotted lines,
-and it is embroidered in the same pattern used
-to finish the neck and sides of the shirt.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140a" id="Page_140a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_198.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">A BEAD LOOM MADE OF A BOX COVER</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>If there is enough of the material that was used
-for the shirt left, two long, straight pieces may
-be cut, embroidered on the long edges, fringed,
-and tied about the Indian&#8217;s legs for leggins.</p>
-
-<p>A most gorgeous headdress may be made for
-the Indian from cr�pe paper feathers. The
-feathers are made by fringing cr�pe paper and
-pasting this fringe to short lengths of flower wire.
-Gilt paint will make the feathers even more glorious,
-and when a number of them are finished,
-red, and blue, and green, and yellow&mdash;all the
-rainbow colors in fact&mdash;they may be wired to a
-headdress made of stiff cambric or heavy cardboard.</p>
-
-<p>What shall we call the boy when he is dressed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>
-in his home-made chieftain&#8217;s suit, which will be
-more effective, even, than the one he saw in the
-toy shop? Hiawatha, perhaps, as he dons his
-war paint and feathers and starts in search of all
-sorts of interesting Indian adventures.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE STICK PICTURES</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">IT is a new sort of fun that a boy can have with
-just plain, everyday, ordinary sticks. You
-can play at being an Indian, too, at the same time
-for the Indians did it first and called it picture-writing.</p>
-
-<p>Suppose you were an Indian child in paint and
-feathers, and moccasins. Suppose that you never
-went to school, and never had seen a piece of paper
-or a lead pencil. Then suppose that you
-wanted to write a letter to your little red cousin
-who lived on the other side of the forest in another
-tribe, far away from yours.</p>
-
-<p>Of course, you have ever so much to tell your
-little red cousin. You want him to know that the
-big chief, your father, has just put up a fine new
-wigwam of skins for you to live in, a more beautiful
-wigwam than any other in the village. You
-want the cousins to know, too, that the sap has begun
-to run in the maple tree and soon your mother,
-Laughing Water, will get out the big kettle
-and build a fire of pine branches and boil the fresh,
-sweet sap into maple sirup. Then there is a still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>
-more wonderful thing to tell your little red cousin.
-In the full of the last moon, a strange water creature
-was seen in the river in front of your wigwam.
-It was white, and large, and it had huge
-white wings that the wind filled. It was a pale
-face ship&mdash;much larger, and very different from
-an Indian&#8217;s canoe.</p>
-
-<p>Now, how are you going to tell all these exciting
-things to the far-away little red cousin when
-you have no pencil and no paper for a letter, and
-there is no postman and no railway train to carry
-a letter to the other tribe? Why, it is going to
-be the easiest thing in the world to do. Make
-some stick pictures that will tell all the stories
-that you would like to write if you only knew how.</p>
-
-<p>In the forest there is a fine old hunting ground.
-You know just the spot where all the tribes gather
-and build their great camp fires, and cook the
-game, and dance in the evening when the hunt is
-done. Before another moon your cousin&#8217;s tribe
-will be there. And you are going now, to the
-hunting ground, to make some stick pictures for
-that little Indian boy to find. Then he will understand
-that you have been there and you were
-thinking of him.</p>
-
-<p>Jump into your canoe and paddle down the
-river. Tie the canoe fast to the bank, then jump<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span>
-out and plunge into the forest. You know the
-way to go, for the moss grows on the north side
-of the trees. There, you have come to a cleared
-spot in the deep, deep woods. There isn&#8217;t any
-sound save the chattering of the chipmunks.
-They won&#8217;t disturb your picture writing. Now
-you may go to work.</p>
-
-<p>You break many of the straight, stout twigs
-from the pine tree. Some of the twigs must be
-long, and others you will break off short to fit
-together where there are corners in the pictures.
-There is a smooth bed of moss under the pine tree.
-That will be a splendid place for your picture
-writing. First, you will make a picture of the
-new wigwam. Just two long sticks, crossed at
-the top will make the outline, and you put two
-short sticks together to show the door. Now, for
-the maple tree. You will lay a long stick down
-on the moss to show the outline of the tree.
-Some shorter sticks, laid close to the sides of the
-longer stick make the branches. The pale face
-ship may be more difficult to make, but you will
-be able to outline the picture with your sticks.
-There are the sloping sides of the ship and there
-are the sails.</p>
-
-<p>The picture letter is done. When the little
-cousin finds it there in the woods he will know all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>
-about the new wigwam, and the maple sirup, and
-the strange ship. You travel home again if you
-are a little Indian boy, and you don&#8217;t mind in the
-least not having a pencil, or a postman.</p>
-
-<p>How may a little pale face child play at picture
-writing?</p>
-
-<p>If it is vacation time, you can gather sticks in
-the woods just as the little Indian boy did. Be
-sure that they are long, straight ones, though.
-You may sit in the grass and lay your stick pictures
-on the lawn, or you may make them on the
-floor of the piazza.</p>
-
-<p>If you want to make stick pictures in the house
-on a stormy day, ask mother to let you use her
-sewing table to put them on, or you can lay them
-on the kitchen floor, or the nursery hearth rug.
-For the indoor stick pictures, you can use burnt
-matches, or toothpicks, or clothes pins&mdash;anything
-long and straight will do. You can buy colored
-sticks at a kindergarten shop, and those will be
-the best of all for stick pictures. And if you have
-a game of jackstraws, the straws may be used
-for the pictures.</p>
-
-<p>The Indians had no picture books, but you have.
-You can play a game with the stick pictures.
-You can make pictures to illustrate one of your
-favorite stories, and then ask the boy or girl who
-is playing with you to try and guess what the
-story is that fits the picture.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146a" id="Page_146a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_206.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">STICK ILLUSTRATION OF THE STORY OF THE THREE BEARS</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>A splendid story to illustrate with stick pictures
-is The Three Bears.</p>
-
-<p>Here is their house.</p>
-
-<p>Here is the table that held the three bowls of
-porridge.</p>
-
-<p>Here are their three chairs.</p>
-
-<p>And here are their three beds.</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">A TOY INDIAN VILLAGE</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">JUST fancy an encampment of real, live Indians
-in the house in a little Indian village
-that you made all yourself! It will be the best
-sort of fun to make the camp, and when it is done
-it will be a fine, new plaything for all winter long,
-as the toy Indians have sham fights, and May
-dances and tell each other stories around their
-tiny camp fires. And this is the way to make the
-fascinating toy.</p>
-
-<p>A long, shallow tin with very narrow sides is
-the foundation for the Indian village. The tinsmith
-has large sheets of bright new tin, and he
-will make you one of these shallow tin trays for
-just a few cents. The florist will give you a basket
-of soft, black earth&mdash;enough to fill the tray&mdash;and
-you can mold and pat it into tiny hills and
-queer little valleys, and long foot paths, no wider
-than your little finger for the toy Indians to trail
-up and down.</p>
-
-<p>You must take a long walk now as far as the
-woods to find some sprays of white pine, hemlock,
-and spruce for the Indians&#8217; trees. Gather some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>
-little straight twigs, too, for wigwam foundations,
-and if the ground is still bare, pick up some
-of the prettiest pebbles you can find for make-believe
-rocks in the Indian encampment. With
-your jack-knife strip from the birch tree just a
-very little bark to make an Indian canoe&mdash;not
-much, for it takes a birch a long, long time to
-grow more bark. Then you may go home again,
-but on the way, buy a penny&#8217;s worth of grass seed
-at the florist&#8217;s. What are you to do with all these
-things?</p>
-
-<p>Just listen, and you will find out.</p>
-
-<p>Scatter the grass seed very softly over the
-earth in your tray and sprinkle it with the rubber
-bulb sprayer that mother uses for her house ferns.
-You would not believe it perhaps, but in a week or
-ten days your little Indian camp ground will be
-covered with a carpet of soft, green grass really
-growing in the earth. After you have planted
-the grass seed, stick the little evergreen trees in
-the earth and lay your pebbles about as if they
-really belonged there on the ground. In one
-corner of the tray, if mother is willing, you may
-sink a shallow, round cake tin filled with water to
-make a miniature lake, and about the lake you
-can put a border of stones covered with the moss
-that comes in a box of Noah&#8217;s Ark animals. The
-tray of earth is quite transformed now into a tiny
-forest.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_212.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Pattern for Toy Wigwam.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>Under the trees the Indian wigwams are scattered.
-Making these tepees is ever so much fun
-and will fill a long winter evening after your lessons
-are learned and you have the library table
-free to work on. Fig. 1 shows you how to cut
-out an Indian wigwam, and heavy dark brown
-paper or brown canvas is a strong material to use.
-When the wigwam is cut, it may be decorated
-with paints in any design you wish. A border of
-small squares is an attractive decoration, or some
-grotesque heads and bows and arrows may be
-painted on. Gold or red paper stars and crescents
-and suns may be cut and glued to the outside
-of the wigwam, forming a very gay scheme of
-trimming it, or very tiny autumn leaves may be
-waxed and glued on. When a number of these
-little wigwams have been cut, decorated, and
-glued together, as shown in Fig. 2, place them in
-your play forest, using two or three twigs crossed
-for supports, the ends extending through the
-hole in the top of the wigwam.</p>
-
-<p>Now you can make the Indians. English walnuts
-form the heads. These are just the right
-size, brown enough for the complexion of any Indian,
-and nicely wrinkled, too. With a sharp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>
-jack-knife smooth down a few of the walnut&#8217;s
-wrinkles, and carve the Indian&#8217;s features, trying
-to give him high cheek bones. Color his cheeks
-with vermilion and paint his face, too, in as many
-different colors as you like. A roll of stiff paper
-or cloth glued to the nut head makes the Indian&#8217;s
-body, about which is wrapped a blanket of fringed
-cr�pe paper, red flannel, or any sort of gay stuff
-that mother will give you. This walnut Indian
-wears a marvelous feather headdress. The
-feathers come from the chicken yard or the oldest
-feather duster&mdash;whichever source is available&mdash;and
-they are glued to a strip of brown paper
-which, in turn is glued to the little Indian&#8217;s head.</p>
-
-<p>There should be a whole tribe of Indians, as
-many as you can make before bedtime, and when
-it comes morning run up to the play room and
-stand the Indian braves at the doors of their wigwams
-or in the little path between the trees where
-they can see their real green grass coming up, and
-enjoy the friendly shelter of their fine little camping
-ground.</p>
-
-<p>These nut Indians will need bows and arrows
-when they have sham battles. Tiny twigs may
-be bent bow shape with rubber bands for bow
-strings and burned out matches may be sharpened
-to a point for arrows. Toothpicks make arrows,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>
-too. A bow and a bundle of arrows may be laid
-at the door of each little Indian&#8217;s wigwam. The
-canoe that floats on the tin pan lake is made of
-a strip of folded birch bark shaped at the ends
-like a real canoe and stitched with brown linen
-thread. It will really float if it is carefully made.</p>
-
-<p>For a camp fire, pile up some broken twigs in a
-cleared spot in your Indian encampment and put
-in some scraps of twisted, red tissue paper which
-will look like flames. One of the kettles from the
-dolls&#8217; kitchen may hang on a forked stick over
-this make-believe fire to cook the dinner for the
-walnut Indian tribe.</p>
-
-<p>This play Indian village will last all winter, a
-comfortable camping ground for the tribe, and a
-delightful plaything for the clever boy who
-made it.</p>
-
-<p>There may be some walnut squaws added perhaps,
-and some peanut papooses wrapped in
-blankets cut from a scrap of old chamois and hung
-contentedly by thread to the sheltering trees.
-The grass will grow so high that it may have to
-be mowed with the nursery scissors, and when
-the trees fade, more can be gathered and put in
-the places of the old ones.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">CORN TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">CORN cobs really look as if they would like
-to play. There is a whole binful out in
-the barn, and the chickens do not want them and
-neither does the farmer. He will make a big bonfire
-out in the wood lot some day and burn up all
-the corn cobs if the children do not take possession
-of them first, and help them to play by making
-them into toys.</p>
-
-<p>What fine, long, straight little logs they are for
-a log cabin, or they might be made into Indian
-or toy rafts, or a rail fence, or almost anything
-else a child chooses.</p>
-
-<p>First you can make a little rail fence that
-stretches across one corner of the barn floor. To
-do this, lay down six corn cobs in zigzag fashion
-on the floor with the ends not quite as far apart
-as the cobs are long. Then across every two cob
-ends lay another cob and finish the fence in this
-way, making it very snug.</p>
-
-<p>Behind the fence lives Apple Johnny. He
-owns the farm whose boundary lines the fence
-marks out on the floor. Apple Johnny has a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span>
-hard apple for his head joined by a toothpick to
-a fat apple that forms his body. His legs and
-arms are twigs and his face is cut with a jack-knife
-in the smaller apple. Apple Johnny has a
-herd of wild potato horses on his farm. Each potato
-has four twig legs, and a flowing mane, made
-of a fringed corn husk pinned to the long end of
-the potato, and a straw tail pinned to the other
-end.</p>
-
-<p>As you put the last corn cob in the fence, you
-heard the rain just pouring and pouring on the
-barn eaves. Suppose the roof of the barn should
-cave in and the whole inside be flooded! What
-would poor little Apple Johnny do, and how would
-he ever make his escape? Apple Johnny must
-have a raft. Select six more corn cobs from the
-binful, all of them just the same length, and lay
-them down on the barn floor, side by side. In one
-of the corners of the barn is an old last summer&#8217;s
-berry basket. Strip off two bits of the binding
-rim as long as the row of cobs is wide. Nail one
-to each end of the row of corn cobs, putting a
-nail in each cob, which holds the small raft firmly
-in place. Then turn the raft right side up and
-to one end nail a long, straight twig for a mast,
-to which you can glue a white paper sail. It is
-a fine little raft when it is completed, and strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span>
-enough to carry Apple Johnny and a potato horse
-or two safely through any possible flood.</p>
-
-<p>But Apple Johnny has no house. Well, a
-house is easily planned when one has a whole bin
-of corn cobs to draw upon for building materials.</p>
-
-<p>Gather an armful of cobs and make a corn-cob
-house. Lay two corn cobs opposite each other,
-and two more across the ends, log cabin fashion,
-driving nails through to hold them together.
-Next, put two more corn cobs over the first
-two and two more over the second, until the house
-is twice as high as Apple Johnny is tall. For a
-roof, nail two sides of the berry basket to the log
-cabin, and then with a rip saw cut out a front door
-high enough to let Apple Johnny step through.
-There will be rather wide chinks in the house, but
-you can play that these are windows through
-which Apple Johnny can watch for the corn-cob
-Indians and shoot at them with a twig musket
-when he sees them coming.</p>
-
-<p>You can make a whole tribe of these corn-cob
-Indians, and it will be the most fun of all, even
-jollier than making a corn-cob fence, and a raft,
-and a house. First, wind corn husks around a
-cob to make the Indian&#8217;s clothes, but leave one
-end, the larger end of the cob, uncovered because
-that is going to be the Indian&#8217;s head. Then on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>
-this end, mark a face with a bit of charcoal; eyes,
-nose, and mouth; and paint the cheeks red with a
-crushed cranberry, rubbing the juice on the corn
-cob. The hens&#8217; nests in the barn are full of ever
-so many pretty feathers, so you can collect as
-many of these as you wish and glue them to the
-corn-cob Indian&#8217;s head for his headdress. Last
-of all, ask mother if she is willing to give you a
-few pieces of the left over plain cloth from sister&#8217;s
-school dress for the corn-cob Indian&#8217;s blanket.
-Of course mother is willing. Almost every mother
-is willing to give a boy things when he is trying
-to amuse himself all alone. She may even cut
-a square of gay plaid from the piece of cloth itself
-and turn out all the pieces from her sewing bag,
-where there are other scraps just right for Indians&#8217;
-blankets; red flannel, and gray serge like
-your last winter suit, and brown merino, and yellow
-silk.</p>
-
-<p>The Indian looks very splendid indeed in his
-feather headdress and a red plaid blanket. All
-he needs then is a bow and quiver of arrows.
-The bow you can make by bending a length of
-willow and tying a piece of cord across. The
-arrows are shorter, pointed twigs with a very
-small hen&#8217;s feather tied to the end of each.</p>
-
-<p>This Indian you can name Chief Big Cob.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158a" id="Page_158a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_220.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption"><span class="indent">CORN COB PAPPOOSE <span class="gap2">CORN COB INDIAN</span></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE A MARBLE BAG</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">NOBODY knows why the first of March
-brings marbles, but it certainly does. Some
-games really belong to the season in which they
-come as coasting and snowfights, but other games
-are played at certain times of the year for no reason
-except that they always have been and always
-will be. If some one should ask a boy&mdash;any boy,
-why it wouldn&#8217;t be better to play football in the
-summer and baseball at Thanksgiving time, he
-couldn&#8217;t tell you, but his sense of the fitness of
-things would be outraged.</p>
-
-<p>And so, when the snow goes away, and the frost
-comes out of the ground, and the sap begins to
-run in the trees, and a boy&#8217;s toes wiggle and wiggle
-and long to kick out of his shoes and dig
-themselves into the soft mud, it is quite the proper
-thing for him to hunt up all his last year&#8217;s marbles,
-and ask his sister&mdash;or somebody else&#8217;s sister&mdash;to
-make him a bag to hold them, so that he will be
-ready for the season&#8217;s marble campaign.</p>
-
-<p>The simplest marble bag to make is one which
-is made in just the same way as a tobacco pouch.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>
-Take an oblong piece of heavy tan canvas, measuring
-twelve inches long by five inches wide.
-Tan does not show the dirt readily, and the
-heavier the material is the better, for the bag is
-not going to be gently handled. Double this piece
-of canvas in the center, so that it forms a bag six
-inches deep by five wide. Sew up the two side
-seams with a coarse needle and very heavy linen
-thread, and make the seams very strong. The
-sewing should be about a quarter of an inch back
-from the edges. Then &#8220;scrape&#8221; the seams open,
-which simply means to run your thumb nail along
-the seams right where the joining is, so that one
-raw edge shall be folded toward each side. Next
-make a hem at the top by folding the material
-over once, and then again. This hem should be
-about a quarter of an inch wide, and in sewing
-it down leave a space unsewed on one side where
-it crosses the seam, so that the draw string can
-be run in. Turn your bag so that it will be
-right side out, and the seaming all on the inside.
-A piece of heavy, wrapping-paper twine
-twelve inches long will make a fine draw string,
-by running it through the hem with a bodkin and
-tying the two ends together.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_224.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Pattern of a Marble Bag.</p>
-
-<p>Another marble bag that will prove very satisfactory,
-and will be so unusual that the boy who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>
-owns it can gloat over the other fellows, is made
-of very heavy chamois, or buckskin. A paper
-pattern is made first, like Fig. 1. It measures
-two and a half inches across the top, four and a
-half inches from side to side at a point three and
-three-quarters inches below the top, and its height
-is six and a half inches. After these points have
-been determined a boy can mark in the vase
-shaped outline freehand. When the pattern is
-made and cut out, lay it on the buckskin, holding
-it carefully, so that it will not slip, and cut four
-pieces just alike. Then take a large darning
-needle or a &#8220;rug&#8221; needle and thread it with a
-strand of raffia. If red, or blue, or green raffia
-are used instead of the ordinary natural color, it
-will make the sewing very decorative. Take two
-of the pieces of buckskin, and, beginning at the
-bottom, sew them together with the stitch that
-is used for making baseballs. This is done by
-taking a stitch up from underneath, then crossing
-over, and taking a stitch up from the under
-side of the other piece, then back to the
-first piece and so on, drawing the raffia snug
-each time. Instead of making a knot at the beginning,
-leave the raffia hanging loose for about
-an inch or more, and when the top of the seam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span>
-is reached, fasten the raffia tight before cutting
-off. Next join the third piece to the second
-in the same way, the fourth to the third,
-and then the fourth to the first, so that all four
-together form a bag. Take the four ends of raffia
-at the bottom and knot them snugly together,
-two by two. They may be trimmed off short, or
-left hanging loose to form a tassel for decoration.
-Now take a narrow piece of soft wood and slip
-it inside the mouth of the bag, so that you can cut
-slits for the draw string. They are cut with a
-sharp penknife and should come just at the narrowest
-part, or neck of the bag. If the upper
-ends of the cuts are three-quarters of an inch
-from the top of the bag, and the cuts themselves a
-half inch long, they will be about right. There
-are four cuts in each section making sixteen cuts
-in all. Next take three pieces of raffia twenty-four
-inches long. Knot the three together at one
-end, and then braid them tightly into a cord.
-When the other end is reached knot it as you did
-the first. String this cord through the slits in
-the neck of the bag just as though you were weaving&mdash;under
-one, over one, under one, over one&mdash;and
-then when it is all strung, tie the two ends
-together in a square knot.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>It makes an exceedingly unique bag, and will
-hold all the marbles a boy can win, and besides
-winning marbles he will win the envy of every
-other boy who sees his fine, new marble bag.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164a" id="Page_164a"></a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_228.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">WHITTLED SCHOOL BOX<span class="gap3"> CHAMOIS MARBLE BAG</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SCHOOL BOX</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">EVERY boy needs a pencil box. Plain little
-oblong boxes most of them, with a flat hinged
-cover, and a little lock that you keep carefully
-fastened with the key. That is, a boy locks his
-pencil box when he is able to find the key, but
-whether it was in his pocket, or fastened to his
-watch chain, the school-box key always does manage
-to get away, somewhere&mdash;to make its escape.</p>
-
-<p>One day, however, the boy sees displayed in the
-window of a stationery shop, a new sort of pencil
-box, a most fascinating kind. The cover of the
-box is made of narrow strips of wood fastened
-side by side like the strips in the top of a roll-top
-desk, and when the shopman opens the pencil box
-to show the boy the inside, the cover just <i>slides</i>
-right back out of sight, while the boy looks on in
-open-eyed astonishment. The shopman&#8217;s supply
-of these magic boxes is limited, though, and there
-is a wild scramble for their possession among the
-boys who can produce ten cents&mdash;for that is the
-exorbitant price charged by the shopman. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>
-boy wants one of those magic boxes. His fingers
-just tingle and burn to hold one and try to make
-the cover slide in its charming way, but he has
-only five cents, he can&#8217;t buy one.</p>
-
-<p>The boy will be able to make his own pencil box,
-though, and this is the way he must go about it
-in order to construct one of those fascinating,
-roll-top ones, just like the one in the shop window.</p>
-
-<p>In the first place, a boy must know how to whittle.
-All that he needs in the way of material is a
-jack-knife, some pieces of wood three-sixteenths
-of an inch thick, some more pieces an eighth thick,
-a strip of white cloth, and some little three-eighth
-inch nails.</p>
-
-<p>The first piece to make (Fig. 1) is the side of
-the box. It is just a plain oblong of the three-sixteenth
-inch wood, measuring nine inches long by
-two and a quarter inches wide. All the pieces are
-made three-sixteenths thick except the strips for
-the cover. Two of these sides are necessary of
-course.</p>
-
-<p>Next come two strips nine inches long and a
-quarter of an inch wide which are fastened,
-notched side up on the inside of each side, &#8220;flush&#8221;&mdash;even&mdash;that
-is, with the top, with four little
-nails driven from the outside. The piece which
-is cut from the end of each of these, as shown in
-the drawing, is to make a joint which is later to
-be fitted with Fig. 10.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_232.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a School Box.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_233.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a School Box.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>Fig. 3 is eight and nine-sixteenths inches long
-and one and seven-sixteenths wide and one end
-is rounded into a half circle. Figs. 3 and 4 are
-nailed in position on the inside of the side pieces,
-and together they form the track around which
-the cover runs. Two of each are required.
-Fig. 5 is the bottom piece, and is simply an oblong
-nine inches long by two and a half wide.
-It is placed in position with the side pieces upright
-on either side of it and nailed from the outside.</p>
-
-<p>It is best to make the cover next, so that you
-can test it and see that it works smoothly before
-any more of the box is put together. It is made
-of little strips (Fig. 6) three-eighths of an inch
-wide and two and a half inches long, &#8220;sliding fit,&#8221;
-which means that they are to be a little less
-than two and a half, so that they will slide in a
-space two and a half inches wide. A sharp rub
-on the ends with sandpaper will make this slight
-difference. There are twenty-two of these strips,
-and they are glued side by side on a strip of white
-muslin cloth. If you use a piece with a selvage
-on one side, you will be more sure of making the
-cover perfectly straight.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>Fig. 7 is the handle and is to be nailed flat to
-the second strip&mdash;the one next to the end strip.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 8 and Fig. 9 are a false bottom and false
-end, which form the receptacle for the pencils, and
-hide the mechanism of the cover. They are
-nailed in position as shown in Fig. 12. The nails
-to fasten these in place must be a little longer than
-the others, because they have to be nailed from the
-outside and must go through two thicknesses of
-wood and project into a third.</p>
-
-<p>The next piece to make is Fig. 10&mdash;an oblong
-measuring one and a half inches by two and a half,
-and cut to make a joint with Fig. 2. This is
-placed across the top and nailed down, covering
-the rounding end of the &#8220;track.&#8221;</p>
-
-<p>Now the cover may be slipped into position and
-the end pieces (Fig. 11), oblongs two and a quarter
-inches by two and seven-eighths, nailed on,
-and the box is done.</p>
-
-<p>It is a convenient size, the receptacle for pencils
-is ample, and to one who does not know, the disappearance
-of that cover when it opens is a mystery
-that borders on black art.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">A HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">NOBODY will deny that a Christmas tree has
-plenty of backbone, but somehow it doesn&#8217;t
-seem to have intelligence enough to use it. Or
-else it resents the taking away of its roots and the
-substitution of a shop-made standard that it considers
-inadequate. As a matter of fact the standards
-that you can buy in the shops <i>are</i> inadequate
-for a tree of any size. And so, if the boy of the
-family is handy with tools, it is up to him to make
-one.</p>
-
-<p>A very good standard for a Christmas tree&mdash;strong,
-durable, and ornamental as well&mdash;may be
-made from a strip of one-by-two-inch &#8220;dressed&#8221;
-lumber 12 ft. long (which costs about a cent and
-a half a foot), and some pieces of an old dry
-goods box.</p>
-
-<p>First, saw off from your one-by-two-inch strip
-four pieces twelve inches long and four pieces
-eleven inches. These are to make Figs. 1, 2, and
-4. Make four pieces like Fig. 1 and two pieces<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>
-like Fig. 2; the notch at the end is cut with a saw
-across the grain, and then split out with a chisel.</p>
-
-<p>When these are done, join two of the twelve-inch
-pieces and two of the eleven inch to form a
-square frame. The joint is shown in Fig. 3, and
-it should be glued or nailed, or both, which is
-safer.</p>
-
-<p>Next make the other two eleven-inch pieces like
-Fig. 4. These are just like Fig. 2 except that a
-groove four inches wide and one inch deep is cut
-in the middle of each. Then they are joined with
-the other twelve-inch pieces to form a frame similar
-to the first. The first frame is to go at the
-bottom of the standard, and the second frame,
-placed with the grooves <i>up</i>, is for the top.</p>
-
-<p>Now cut from the remainder of the strip two
-more pieces twelve inches long. With a compass
-set at an inch-and-a-half radius, and the center in
-the exact middle of one edge, draw a half circle
-on each, and chip it out with a chisel like Fig. 5.
-The use of these will be described later.</p>
-
-<p>The remainder of the strip will make four pieces
-eighteen inches long, with a bit left over. These
-are to stand on their two-inch faces, and the upper
-edges of each end should be rounded off with a
-&#8220;block&#8221; plane. Then two grooves are cut in each
-piece, two of the pieces having the grooves on the
-upper side and two on the under side, like Figs.
-6 and 7.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_238.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span></p>
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_239.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagrams of a Christmas Tree Stand.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>Now cut from your packing box sixteen strips
-or pickets one and three-quarters inches wide and
-fourteen inches long, like Fig. 8. These may be
-&#8220;ripped out&#8221; with a saw and smoothed up with a
-plane and sandpaper.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_240.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Christmas Tree Stand.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>To &#8220;assemble&#8221; the standard join first the two
-Fig. 6 strips and two Fig. 7. This leaves a hole
-two inches square in the center and two strips
-projecting from each of the four sides. Place the
-first square frame that you made on this, so that
-its sides will be equally distant from the center,
-and nail in position. Next nail the pickets in position
-so that the lower end of the pickets will be
-&#8220;flush&#8221; with the lower side of the frame. Next,
-hold the upper frame, with the grooves up,
-in position, eight inches above the lower frame
-and nail the pickets to that. Fig. 9 shows the
-complete assembly.</p>
-
-<p>Now give the frame, and the two pieces like
-Fig. 5 a coat of dark green paint, and the standard
-is ready for use. Slip the tree into the square
-hole in the base. If the trunk is a bit too large,
-whittle it to fit. Then place the two pieces like
-Fig. 5 around the trunk at the top of the frame
-for a clamp, and slip them into the grooves in the
-upper frame, and you will find your tree quite
-ready to stand up and behave.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO WRAP CHRISTMAS PARCELS</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">HOW many boys and big folks, too, have at
-some time received a Christmas gift which
-was broken, or crushed, or spoiled in some way
-through the careless packing of the sender. Even
-at ordinary times the mail service and Express
-Companies are hard enough upon packages given
-to their care. The term &#8220;baggage-smasher&#8221;
-ought not to be restricted to the employees of the
-railways alone, and when at Christmas time the
-mails and express lines are congested with packages
-of all descriptions, and the men are tired and
-overworked trying to deliver gifts that have been
-sent at the last minute&mdash;then it is doubly needful
-to insure the safety of your Christmas presents by
-careful packing.</p>
-
-<p>Of course the wrapping of a gift cannot change
-its value, but you should bear in mind that your
-gift will <i>seem</i> doubly attractive to the one who receives
-it, if inside of the serviceable outside wrapping,
-there is another dainty one, and the expense
-is so trifling that it need hardly be considered. A
-dozen sheets of tissue paper cost only a dime.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span>
-Pure white or warm &#8220;Christmassy&#8221; red are the
-most desirable kinds. Another dime will purchase
-a box of Christmas seals&mdash;small ones with
-pictures of holly and mistletoe, or large ones with
-Santa Claus heads or Christmas bells on them.
-If you prefer tying, to sealing, the ten cents will
-buy a dozen yards of &#8220;tying&#8221; ribbon, which is
-crimson &#8220;baby&#8221; ribbon in a cheaper grade than
-is ordinarily sold. Gilt cord is also very attractive
-for tying up gifts, and a tiny spray of holly
-tucked under the cord or ribbon gives a final
-dainty Christmas touch.</p>
-
-<p>Perhaps, though, you live so far away from a
-town that you are not able to buy these Christmas
-seals, and the tying ribbon. Almost, if not quite
-as pretty to fasten the inside tissue paper wrapping
-of a gift will be some very tiny, red maple
-leaves gathered in the fall with the thought of
-Christmas in mind, and pressed with a hot flat
-iron on which some beeswax has been rubbed.
-This preserves the bright color of the leaves and
-keeps them stiff until you need to use them.
-After carefully folding in the ends of the tissue
-paper about the gift, the paper is fastened down
-by gluing on a few of these gay, pressed leaves,
-and in the folds of the paper a wee spray of pine
-or a little wreath made of ground pine, or a bunch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span>
-of partridge berries may be tucked. Another
-way of making a gift look like the country is to
-tie it with strands of sweet grass.</p>
-
-<p>When the gifts are wrapped, and you are ready
-to pack them for shipment, there are a few general
-rules that must be remembered.</p>
-
-<p>First: That the gifts must be packed as
-snugly as it is possible to do without harming
-them.</p>
-
-<p>Second: That nothing&mdash;not even excelsior&mdash;is
-quite as effective in stopping the transmission
-of bumps and jars as crumpled up newspapers.</p>
-
-<p>Third: That the name and address of the person
-to whom the gift is sent and also the address
-of the sender must be legibly written in your best
-school hand on the outer covering where they are
-not liable to be torn off. You must remember
-that, while the names and addresses are perfectly
-familiar to you, they are totally unknown to the
-men through whose hands the parcels go, and in
-handling thousands of packages, illegible writing
-means much delay.</p>
-
-<p>The rule of packing things tightly refers to
-<i>everything</i>&mdash;even things which would seem most
-crushable, for there is far more harm done by
-packing these loosely so that they slip around with
-every turn of the package, than by crushing them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span>
-flat in one position. Take a delicate waist, for
-instance. If packed loosely, it will come out of
-its box rumpled and wrinkled in every direction,
-but if it is folded flat, the sleeves stuffed with
-crumpled tissue paper, and the spaces around it in
-the box filled with the same, it will reach its destination
-quite as fresh as when it started.</p>
-
-<p>It is better to <i>box</i> all gifts if possible. Very
-pretty Christmas boxes of all sizes and shapes may
-be bought in the shops, or, in place of these, you
-can use empty candy boxes which most people
-stow away for just such purposes.</p>
-
-<p>Do not select a box that is too small and leaves
-too little space for filling in with crushed paper,
-and try and think, too, of the weight of the gift
-in selecting your box.</p>
-
-<p>If you are packing odd pieces of china, wrap
-each piece separately, and see that they are well
-segregated with the crushed paper. If you are
-packing a number of pieces of uniform size and
-shape&mdash;such as saucers, plates, etc.&mdash;place them
-in a pile with every <i>second</i> one well wrapped.
-Then wrap the whole pile and pack <i>edgewise</i>.</p>
-
-<p>China should be packed in a wooden box, with
-an addressed baggage tag nailed on, or the address
-put on the wood itself with India ink.</p>
-
-<p>Flat things, calendars, cards, photographs, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>
-handkerchiefs, gloves, neckties, ribbons, etc. if
-unboxed, must be protected by pasteboard. For
-this, the corrugated pasteboard that is used by
-department stores is much more effective than
-the ordinary flat sort. It is much less easily bent,
-and is lighter in weight, which is of course a great
-advantage, because it makes the cost of mailing
-less.</p>
-
-<p>This corrugated pasteboard is also very good
-for wrapping things which are light in weight,
-but bulky and of awkward shape, for it may be
-rolled to accommodate almost any object.</p>
-
-<p>Doilies, centerpieces, and other flat embroideries
-must necessarily be kept uncreased in shipping,
-but are too large to be sent flat. Lay them
-first on a sheet of heavy wrapping paper, cut
-square and slightly larger than the embroidered
-piece. Then lay over the embroidery a sheet of
-tissue paper, and carefully roll the whole thing.
-Then form a tubular covering of the corrugated
-pasteboard, and wrap with hardware paper outside.
-In tying up a tube, the cord should go twice
-around the tube&mdash;once near each end&mdash;and the
-cord which goes lengthwise should go through
-the opening of the tube so that the contents will
-not slip out.</p>
-
-<p>In tying packages for mailing, use good strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span>
-cord, and remember that a package must bear no
-kind of a seal and contain no kind of writing
-beyond a simple Christmas greeting if it is to go
-as &#8220;merchandise.&#8221; Even one of the little paper
-seals stuck over the string will render the package
-&#8220;first class&#8221; and subject to letter postage.</p>
-
-<p>Just one more thing to be remembered at
-Christmas time. Courtesy is only another name
-for kindness, and it would be discourteous to send
-a gift which was not fully prepaid; or to send a
-gift &#8220;across the line,&#8221; which is dutiable to any
-great extent. And in courtesy to the men and
-women who have to handle your gifts on their
-journeys, send your Christmas presents long
-enough ahead of time so that these men and
-women may not be too tired when Christmas
-comes to feel themselves its blessed peace and
-cheer.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span>
-<h2 class="nobreak">YOUR OWN WIRELESS RECEIVING STATION</h2></div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">MOST boys are interested in wireless telegraphy,
-and it is possible for any one of
-them to make a simple apparatus by which they
-can &#8220;cut in&#8221; and receive any wireless message
-that happens to be passing through their particular
-zone.</p>
-
-<p>The receiving set will require a number of different
-parts, but they are easily made&mdash;when one
-knows how.</p>
-
-<p>For actual hearing you will need a telephone
-receiver of some sort. One may be bought for
-about seventy-five cents at an electrical supply
-house, or an old one, provided it is in good condition,
-may be used.</p>
-
-<p>Next comes a &#8220;detector.&#8221; This consists of a
-wooden base about six inches long by four wide
-and an inch thick, on which is mounted a piece of
-silicon about the size of an egg. An insulated
-wire passed once around the silicon and then
-through two holes in the base will hold the silicon
-in position in the center of the block. Put a brass
-screw an inch long at each end of the block and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span>
-&#8220;connect up&#8221; the silicon in the following way:
-First take a piece of No. 22 single-covered copper
-wire, scrape off a few inches of the covering, and
-wind this bare copper wire several times around a
-small round stick to form a spring. The bare end
-of the spring must be filed to a point and rest
-against one end of the silicon, while the other end
-of the wire is wound around one of the brass
-screws. Next, take a piece of ordinary insulated
-telephone wire, bare one end far enough to wind
-firmly around the free end of the piece of silicon,
-and then wind the other end of this wire around
-the second brass screw. This makes a metallic
-circuit through the silicon which will &#8220;make&#8221; or
-&#8220;break&#8221; with the touching or removing of the
-spring.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_249.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Detector.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_250.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Tuning Coil.</p>
-
-<p>Next you need a &#8220;tuning coil.&#8221; This has a
-wooden base twelve inches by six and an inch
-thick. To make the coil itself a stick twelve
-inches long and one and a half inches in diameter&mdash;a
-piece of an old curtain pole will do<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span>&mdash;and
-wind carefully on it a half pound of the
-No. 22 single-covered copper wire. The end
-of this wire is fastened to the stick with a
-small tack, and it should be wound very evenly
-and closely. The last end is left free for a connection.
-After it is wound give the wire three
-coats of shellac, making sure that each coat
-is dry before another one is put on. When it is
-thoroughly dry mark two straight lines from end
-to end, a quarter of an inch apart. With a sharp
-knife scrape off the insulation so that the wires
-are bare on the outside, but be careful not to disturb
-the insulation between the wires. To mount
-the coil, nail at each end a wooden strip three
-inches wide, three and a half high and one inch
-thick. This has also to be nailed to the base, and
-it should be placed so that the coil will clear the
-base by a half inch. The strip of bare wire on
-the coil should be uppermost. Now get a brass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span>
-rod one quarter of an inch square and thirteen
-inches long; a thin brass strip one quarter inch
-wide and two inches long; another strip one inch
-wide and one and one-quarter inches long; and
-two round headed brass screws. Bend the wider
-brass strip around the brass rod to form a slider.
-Bend the narrow brass strip in the center to form
-a V spring. Solder one end of this to the slider
-so that it is in the position shown in the drawing.
-Slip the slider on the brass rod, place the rod in
-position directly over the pathway of bared wire
-on the coil so that the lower end of the V spring
-will press on this pathway, and fasten the rod securely
-with the brass screws to the wooden end
-pieces.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_251.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Aerial.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_252.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Switch.</p>
-
-<p>For the &#8220;a�rial&#8221; get three or four hundred feet
-of wire&mdash;No. 16 galvanized wire will do, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span>
-aluminum or copper wire is better&mdash;some insulator
-knobs, and two cross spreaders three feet
-long. The parallel wires in the a�rial should be
-at least two feet apart, and the a�rial should be
-placed as high as possible so that surrounding
-buildings, etc., will not interfere with the wireless
-wave. The bare wires, wherever they are
-fastened to poles or trees must, of course, be
-wound around insulators. For a ground connection,
-fasten an ordinary insulated wire to a
-water pipe or to a piece of iron pipe sunk five feet
-in damp ground. A safety switch may be made,
-like the drawing, from a piece of wood six inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span>
-square and an inch thick, a piece of stiff brass
-three inches long and a half inch wide, and three
-round-headed brass screws.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_253.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">Diagram of Circuit.</p>
-
-<p>This completes the separate parts of the receiving
-apparatus. To connect it up for use, follow
-the circuit diagram. One wire from the a�rial
-leads through the safety switch to the tuning coil.
-From the tuning coil carry an insulated wire to
-the detector, and from the detector to the ground.
-The receiver has two wires leading from it&mdash;one
-to a point between the detector and the tuning coil,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span>
-and the other to a similar point between the detector
-and the ground. When not in use the a�rial
-should be connected directly with the ground by
-means of the safety switch. Where two wires
-are connected they must of course have the insulation
-scraped off so that bare wire rests against
-bare wire.</p>
-
-<p>When you have learned to translate your messages
-you will be able to do quite a bit of wireless
-eavesdropping, and your receiver will click with
-countless messages.</p>
-
-
-<p class="center">THE END</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<p class="ph3">TRANSCRIBER&#8217;S NOTES:</p>
-
-
-<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.</p>
-
-<p>Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized.</p>
-
-<p>Archaic or alternate spelling that may have been in use at the time of publication has been retained.</p>
-
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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-</body>
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